From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  1 05:01:33 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 04:01:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The MG TD arrives in Texas
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dxpUGsgb4p6tiPnOi6S1TAvT4-J6Ku8r7Hf=jmkzknS1g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dxpUGsgb4p6tiPnOi6S1TAvT4-J6Ku8r7Hf=jmkzknS1g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1364814093.44882.YahooMailNeo@web164906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Looks like you are off to a good start, Rick!

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; Rui
Gigante <rui.gigante at gmail.com> 
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:42 PM
Subject: [Mgs] The MG TD arrives in Texas
 
Hello Friends,

The MG TD I bought
from Mr. Bill Schooler has arrived here in Texas.
Enclosed Vehicle Transport
delivered the car to my garage (Yes, they
helped push it up the drive and into
the garage.) and here I am with
the car.  May I proudly say, the car is
everything Bill said it would
be, and perhaps even better than he described.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/MG_TD_in_garage.JPG

Following below are a number of
pictures I took today as work began.
First of all, here's the car.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1029.JPG

Yea, it looks really rough - and it is
- but its complete and
ultimately restorable.

Bill couldn't get the car
started before loading on the transporter so
I decided to examine the fuel
pump - the rumored defective link.  If I
could get it running I could do a hot
compression test.  Here's how it
looked.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here are a couple more pictures taken
to aid in reassembly.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1035.JPG
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1036.JPG

Upon removal of the filter I
discovered a LOT of debris in the filter.
Further examination showed that
diaphragm to be damaged.  And in
reality, the engine will get completely
rebuild so the intended
compression test was just to satisfy my curiosity.  It
will have to
wait.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1037.JPG

I haven't yet
decided whether to rebuild this pump or to just replace
it with an aftermarket
one from Moss.  A betting man might benefit
from choosing the rebuild option.
Next step was to rebuild the high-tone horn.  It was not working so a
full
rebuild was indicated.  First of all, I took pictures of the
mounting and
wiring, again to aid in correct reassembly.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1038.JPG

Inside, the horn was just fine but
with heavily corroded contacts.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1039.JPG

Back
on the workbench, the contacts were cleaned and refaced, just as
one would do
with ignition points.  I then stripped all the paint and
sanded away the
rust.  The horn was then reassembled with a little
lubricant on the moving
bits (but not the points, of course) and
tested on the bench power supply. 
Voila!  It worked great!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1040.JPG

Once
reassembled, a coat of engine primer followed by a coat of gloss
black engine
paint put it ready for re-installation.  Of course, that
will have to wait for
MONTHS but, when reassembly time comes, this
part, like the rest, will be
ready for a nice clean rebuild.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130330_165733.jpg
I moved on the the other horn but got no further than disassembly.
This horn
does work but it too will receive the full process.

And with that, the day's
work ended.  Its a tiny bit of progress but
it IS progress.  Simple and clean.
-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Apr  1 14:29:38 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 15:29:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwvL_CCFKfVoUCNOnfNoXHjsER6DrM1-+fG-KcnX6RncQ@mail.gmail.com>

Its the first day of my retirement and...wait for it...YES!  I got a
call this afternoon from the company asking about some data I
processed!  No escape!  However, I have had a good day in the garage.
Story follows;

A couple of days ago I wrote to you stating that I would probably
rebuild the '53 TD's fuel pump rather than replacing it - and that is
what I have done.  Here's how the pump looked on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here's how it looked on the bench with the filter and the fuel chamber removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1041.JPG

Here's a look at the non-return valve before any cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1042.JPG

Here are the valve parts (almost) ready for reassembly.  I say almost
because the valve disks still need to be cleaned.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1043.JPG

And here's the pump reassembled with new gaskets, the contacts
burnished, and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1044.JPG

It runs great and looks nice.

>From there I moved on to the next component to rebuild; the starter
switch.  Here's how it looked while still on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1050.JPG

Same switch on the bench, awaiting cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1051.JPG

Some fuel pump debris is still on the bench.  All has since been
cleaned up.  Here's a look at the switch, now cleaned up, refinished
and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1054.JPG

And finally, a look back at the car with the parts removed.  This
picture is my guide as to the correct placement / orientation of the
various mounting brackets.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1053.JPG

And that's it for now.  I like sharing the work and I know some of you
probably enjoy seeing the progress.  Please feel free to just hit
'delete' is uninterested.

With kind regards,

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Apr  1 16:57:22 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 17:57:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Only in our world...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxG2HWn_mg9joabdqSxZJb3GjczyJnrYBqu84NYaVnmUQ@mail.gmail.com>

Only in our perverted world would this be called progress!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1057.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1058.JPG

-rick

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Apr  1 17:02:19 2013
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 23:02:19 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Message-ID: <20130401.190219.15280.2@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

  Thanks for the pics.
   Nice to see these good old components brought back into service.
   The starter switch even has its build date showing.
   What are you using for finish on the switch metal?
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net, mg-t at autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
<rui.gigante at gmail.com>, Neil Shannon <neiltshannon at gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 15:29:38 -0500

Its the first day of my retirement and...wait for it...YES!  I got a
call this afternoon from the company asking about some data I
processed!  No escape!  However, I have had a good day in the garage.
Story follows;

A couple of days ago I wrote to you stating that I would probably
rebuild the '53 TD's fuel pump rather than replacing it - and that is
what I have done.  Here's how the pump looked on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here's how it looked on the bench with the filter and the fuel chamber
removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1041.JPG

Here's a look at the non-return valve before any cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1042.JPG

Here are the valve parts (almost) ready for reassembly.  I say almost
because the valve disks still need to be cleaned.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1043.JPG

And here's the pump reassembled with new gaskets, the contacts
burnished, and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1044.JPG

It runs great and looks nice.

>From there I moved on to the next component to rebuild; the starter
switch.  Here's how it looked while still on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1050.JPG

Same switch on the bench, awaiting cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1051.JPG

Some fuel pump debris is still on the bench.  All has since been
cleaned up.  Here's a look at the switch, now cleaned up, refinished
and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1054.JPG

And finally, a look back at the car with the parts removed.  This
picture is my guide as to the correct placement / orientation of the
various mounting brackets.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1053.JPG

And that's it for now.  I like sharing the work and I know some of you
probably enjoy seeing the progress.  Please feel free to just hit
'delete' is uninterested.

With kind regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Apr  1 19:50:58 2013
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:20:58 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Only in our world...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dxG2HWn_mg9joabdqSxZJb3GjczyJnrYBqu84NYaVnmUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dxG2HWn_mg9joabdqSxZJb3GjczyJnrYBqu84NYaVnmUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <67692679-0D48-4D5D-88BB-53D2DD67C9CA@erickson.on.net>

On 02/04/2013, at 9:27 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com> wrote:

> Only in our perverted world would this be called progress!
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1057.JPG
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1058.JPG
> 

Maaate - that is hardly a project.  I would drive it as is!

;-)

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Apr  2 01:26:57 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 08:26:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Only in our world...
References: <CAOc+-dxG2HWn_mg9joabdqSxZJb3GjczyJnrYBqu84NYaVnmUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E20F4B26DDEE4436AE5E49D654218905@paul>

Nicely patinated ...

----- Original Message ----- 

> Only in our perverted world would this be called progress!

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue Apr  2 11:18:19 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:18:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A little more TD progress.
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dyNJisXAs-AaYkBsvj-DMDTham=f6vro-x1EH8V7b4_6g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

This morning I cleaned the garage and worked on a few parts.  Its
really humid here today so painting was out of the question, after
opening the garage door.  However, un-painting is viable. :-)

Here's a look at the instrument panel (taken by Bill and cropped by me).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Instrument_before.jpg

Once removed from the facia and on the bench, I coated it with paint
stripper.  Even the outer edges of the chrome were smeared with black
paint by some PO, when the facia was painted.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg

And 10 minutes later, the paint was stripped and the chrome edge was polished.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg

That guy is going to look really nice!  And that (almost) begs the
question; What is the 'correct' finish on the panel?  I've seen
everything from tan to chrome to body color.  The biggest variability
I have seen, even in Clausager's book, is in the A, B and C series.
The Ds and Fs always seem to be medium-tan.  The finish on my panel
was brown-to-tan and 'may' have been metallic paint.  The interior
will be Moss's Honey Tan so my first thought is a medium brown. BUT,
your advice would be appreciated.

The next project was the horn-push.  Here's how it looks once disassembled.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_101519.jpg

Everything is now restored, the contacts burnished, tested and the
metal repainted (before opening the garage door into Houston's
humidity).  However, the little screw heads are damaged so I'm off to
the hardware store for parts.  I'll share a picture of the restored
switch, complete with new wires, once I have it reassembled.

Regards,

-rick

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Tue Apr  2 14:15:52 2013
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike E)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 16:15:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyNJisXAs-AaYkBsvj-DMDTham=f6vro-x1EH8V7b4_6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyNJisXAs-AaYkBsvj-DMDTham=f6vro-x1EH8V7b4_6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W7596325A430E54F722815B7DF0@phx.gbl>

Rick,
The dash panel paint is metallic bronze, Moss part #220-530.  Same for TD and
TF.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT1951 M38 Jeep
1954 MG TF
(Need a '60s car!)1973 Midget1977 MGB

> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:18:19 -0500
> From: richardolindsay at gmail.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; rui.gigante at gmail.com
> Subject: [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> This morning I cleaned the garage and worked on a few parts.  Its
> really humid here today so painting was out of the question, after
> opening the garage door.  However, un-painting is viable. :-)
>
> Here's a look at the instrument panel (taken by Bill and cropped by me).
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Instrument_before.jpg
>
> Once removed from the facia and on the bench, I coated it with paint
> stripper.  Even the outer edges of the chrome were smeared with black
> paint by some PO, when the facia was painted.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg
>
> And 10 minutes later, the paint was stripped and the chrome edge was
polished.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg
>
> That guy is going to look really nice!  And that (almost) begs the
> question; What is the 'correct' finish on the panel?  I've seen
> everything from tan to chrome to body color.  The biggest variability
> I have seen, even in Clausager's book, is in the A, B and C series.
> The Ds and Fs always seem to be medium-tan.  The finish on my panel
> was brown-to-tan and 'may' have been metallic paint.  The interior
> will be Moss's Honey Tan so my first thought is a medium brown. BUT,
> your advice would be appreciated.
>
> The next project was the horn-push.  Here's how it looks once disassembled.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_101519.jpg
>
> Everything is now restored, the contacts burnished, tested and the
> metal repainted (before opening the garage door into Houston's
> humidity).  However, the little screw heads are damaged so I'm off to
> the hardware store for parts.  I'll share a picture of the restored
> switch, complete with new wires, once I have it reassembled.
>
> Regards,
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Apr  2 15:08:09 2013
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 21:08:09 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
Message-ID: <20130402.170809.9486.1@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

 Looking better every day, Rick.
 Hardware store is unlikely to have BA (British Association) fasteners, just
something close enough to chew up existing threads.
   Try Jon Caswell, British Tools and Fasteners, for a source that ships
fast.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike E <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
To: <richardolindsay at gmail.com>, <mgs at autox.team.net>, "mg-t at autox.team.net"
<mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 16:15:52 -0400

Rick,
The dash panel paint is metallic bronze, Moss part #220-530.  Same for TD and
TF.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT1951 M38 Jeep
1954 MG TF
(Need a '60s car!)1973 Midget1977 MGB

> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:18:19 -0500
> From: richardolindsay at gmail.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; rui.gigante at gmail.com
> Subject: [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> This morning I cleaned the garage and worked on a few parts.  Its
> really humid here today so painting was out of the question, after
> opening the garage door.  However, un-painting is viable. :-)
>
> Here's a look at the instrument panel (taken by Bill and cropped by me).
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Instrument_before.jpg
>
> Once removed from the facia and on the bench, I coated it with paint
> stripper.  Even the outer edges of the chrome were smeared with black
> paint by some PO, when the facia was painted.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg
>
> And 10 minutes later, the paint was stripped and the chrome edge was
polished.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg
>
> That guy is going to look really nice!  And that (almost) begs the
> question; What is the 'correct' finish on the panel?  I've seen
> everything from tan to chrome to body color.  The biggest variability
> I have seen, even in Clausager's book, is in the A, B and C series.
> The Ds and Fs always seem to be medium-tan.  The finish on my panel
> was brown-to-tan and 'may' have been metallic paint.  The interior
> will be Moss's Honey Tan so my first thought is a medium brown. BUT,
> your advice would be appreciated.
>
> The next project was the horn-push.  Here's how it looks once disassembled.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_101519.jpg
>
> Everything is now restored, the contacts burnished, tested and the
> metal repainted (before opening the garage door into Houston's
> humidity).  However, the little screw heads are damaged so I'm off to
> the hardware store for parts.  I'll share a picture of the restored
> switch, complete with new wires, once I have it reassembled.
>
> Regards,
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue Apr  2 16:14:41 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 17:14:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tuesday's work...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dz3g+sePEKNc5me9MyXtAuM49wiK9MA-q2i-tRNzWk-9w@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

It was a long, fun day.  Today I worked on gauges, switches and
instruments.  Here are a few pictures to photo-document the work.

First is a picture of the the speedometer, just as it came out of the dash.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1062.jpg

Now I'm going to do a bait-n-switch and show pictures of the tach
being restored first.  I just didn't have a 'before' of the tach.

Here's how the back end of the instrument looks.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1059.JPG

First step was to remove the clock and clean its face.  Notice that
the minute hand shows rust.  Both hands will be cleaned and painted
before reassembly.  Also, notice how much the dial has faded over the
past 60 years!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1061.JPG

I cleaned the works with a uber-fine brush and degreaser, then added a
tiny bit of clock oil.  I then attached power but no joy.  I switched
the power supply to show current and it registered zero.  Looks like
the coil is open.  Or...I'm no watchmaker!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1060.JPG

Here's a look at the tack after refurbishing, sitting next to the
untouched speedo.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1065.JPG

And before anyone goes ballistic, yes I did paint the trim ring medium
brown.  It was rusted and I don't have
60-year-faded-metallic-aqua-paint on the shelf!  I thought about using
black, white, silver, or left un-refinished and rusty.  I then decided
to paint the trim ring the same color that the instrument panel will
be!  Some day the right paint might become available and I can correct
this 'error'.  Until then, at least it will look intentional.

Here's a look at both instruments, ready to re-install.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1066.JPG

You might have noticed that the two instruments' faces are slightly
different color.  They are both labeled '53' and probably just
represent the variability coming from the manufacturer.

Moving on to other work, here's a look at the starter-pull, nicely
refinished.  Note the pitting on the chrome.  This is as good as I
could make it.  The Bakelite knob has a coat of (Krylon) clear gloss
acrylic, giving it that deep brown, new Bakelite appearance.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1069.JPG

Here is a picture of the rest of the afternoon's work.  The ignition
and lighting switch knob was refinished with acrylic, just like
described above.  The chrome was polished and is now ready for the
inner portion of the chrome to be painted, leaving the chrome ring.
The Ammeter was also refurbished but it really just needed cleaning
and the chrome polished.  Finally, the horn-push is shown.  It is
reassembled with incorrect screws but they are holding everything
together.  I'll replace the screws before installation.

And finally, here are a couple of yet-to-do projects!  Not pictured
are the remaining switches and knobs.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1070.JPG

And that's it.  At the end of the day, the results may seem pretty
small, but the amount of work to get this far is huge.

With best regards,

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed Apr  3 06:17:54 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 07:17:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Autumn Red
Message-ID: <pc63wfdsoqreiasd3n9lukbg.1364991474015@email.android.com>

Anyone have a picture of (any) MG in Autumn Red, to share please? B Google images returns many options but they all seem to be different. B 

I'm looking for a rich dark blood red that is neither orangish nor burgundy. B  Metallics need not apply. :-p

Your advice (and picture) is appreciated.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  3 07:44:52 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 06:44:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Tuesday's work...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dz3g+sePEKNc5me9MyXtAuM49wiK9MA-q2i-tRNzWk-9w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dz3g+sePEKNc5me9MyXtAuM49wiK9MA-q2i-tRNzWk-9w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1364996692.62585.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Looking good, Rick..... man, I wish I was retired!!!

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; Neil
Shannon <neiltshannon at gmail.com>; Rui Gigante <rui.gigante at gmail.com> 
Sent:
Tuesday, April 2, 2013 6:14 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Tuesday's work...
 
Hello
Friends,

It was a long, fun day.  Today I worked on gauges, switches and
instruments.  Here are a few pictures to photo-document the work.

First is a
picture of the the speedometer, just as it came out of the dash.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1062.jpg

Now I'm going to do a bait-n-switch
and show pictures of the tach
being restored first.  I just didn't have a
'before' of the tach.

Here's how the back end of the instrument looks.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1059.JPG

First step was to remove the clock and
clean its face.  Notice that
the minute hand shows rust.  Both hands will be
cleaned and painted
before reassembly.  Also, notice how much the dial has
faded over the
past 60 years!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1061.JPG

I
cleaned the works with a uber-fine brush and degreaser, then added a
tiny bit
of clock oil.  I then attached power but no joy.  I switched
the power supply
to show current and it registered zero.  Looks like
the coil is open. 
Or...I'm no watchmaker!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1060.JPG

Here's a look
at the tack after refurbishing, sitting next to the
untouched speedo.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1065.JPG

And before anyone goes ballistic, yes
I did paint the trim ring medium
brown.  It was rusted and I don't have
60-year-faded-metallic-aqua-paint on the shelf!  I thought about using
black,
white, silver, or left un-refinished and rusty.  I then decided
to paint the
trim ring the same color that the instrument panel will
be!  Some day the
right paint might become available and I can correct
this 'error'.  Until
then, at least it will look intentional.

Here's a look at both instruments,
ready to re-install.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1066.JPG

You might have
noticed that the two instruments' faces are slightly
different color.  They
are both labeled '53' and probably just
represent the variability coming from
the manufacturer.

Moving on to other work, here's a look at the starter-pull,
nicely
refinished.  Note the pitting on the chrome.  This is as good as I
could make it.  The Bakelite knob has a coat of (Krylon) clear gloss
acrylic,
giving it that deep brown, new Bakelite appearance.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1069.JPG

Here is a picture of the rest of the
afternoon's work.  The ignition
and lighting switch knob was refinished with
acrylic, just like
described above.  The chrome was polished and is now ready
for the
inner portion of the chrome to be painted, leaving the chrome ring.
The Ammeter was also refurbished but it really just needed cleaning
and the
chrome polished.  Finally, the horn-push is shown.  It is
reassembled with
incorrect screws but they are holding everything
together.  I'll replace the
screws before installation.

And finally, here are a couple of yet-to-do
projects!  Not pictured
are the remaining switches and knobs.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1070.JPG

And that's it.  At the end of the day,
the results may seem pretty
small, but the amount of work to get this far is
huge.

With best regards,

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Apr  3 11:00:06 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 10:00:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Bother...
Message-ID: <CD81AE26.44E3E%mvheim@sonic.net>

Putting my bike away last evening, I saw a puddle under the left rear tire
of the MG. Brake fluid. Last drove it on Friday, and the brakes were fine.

The wheel cylinder can't be that old -- I can actually remember replacing
the pair (well, all that means is within the last 15 years, I suppose).
Since it's my only car right now, I got on the web to Moss and ordered two
rebuild kits, plus clips and boots, 2nd day air, with the idea of dealing
with it this weekend.

The brake work isn't bad (and there is a nice tip on the Moss site about how
to handle the silly clips), it's the interminable bleeding I'm not looking
forward to.

Hmm, maybe I should have ordered shoes... They are probably soaked. I
suppose it's possible they could be sourced locally.

In other news, the badge fell off the grill somewhere, leaving an empty
escutcheon. I have a new-in-box grill, but I found out years ago that it
wouldn't fit without grinding away a lot of body filler (the PO fitted a 73
grill, which has a shallower surround). I was always waiting for when I
fitted the replacement fenders, but maybe I should just get cracking on it
as a minor project, and fit the new hood at the same time -- the car would
almost look respectable (well, if it were painted).


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed Apr  3 17:34:29 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 18:34:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>

...I did play with our new grandbaby!!!  Woohoo!

Hello Friends,

I did make progress this afternoon so I'll share that work.

First of all, I cleaned the choke cable, inside and out, and cleaned
away a little surface rust on the outer sheath.  I also cleaned and
sprayed the knob with clear acrylic.  Once dry, the cable got lightly
oiled.  Here are the two cables, ready to re-install.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1073.JPG

I next cleaned, refinished and tested the turn signal switch.  When
some PO painted the dash black, the handle also got painted - kinda.
Here it is refinished and ready to reassemble and re-install.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1072.JPG

I next cleaned and evaluated the power sockets from the instrument
panel.  The metal bits are fine but the black and red insulators are
shot (falling apart) - and they're expensive.  I also don't expect to
reconnect them so I went for an alternative; two grommets in the holes
with the metal bits re-installed.  One of the grommets is now red.
Later, if I (or someone) wants to reconnect these sockets, the parts
are available.  Picture of the grommet follows, and in a later picture
with the other bits.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1074.JPG

The next repairs were made to the 'ignition', 'low fuel' and 'turn
signal' lights.  As many of you might know, the lamps are 2-1/2 volt
units in series with a coils of wire serving as a dropping resistors.
Unfortunately, the resistive wires were damaged on all sockets and
were damaged further upon removal from the instrument panel.  Instead
of buying replacements or fighting many feet of tiny wire, I modified
the lamp holders by jumpering across the ballast contacts and
switching to 12 volt bulbs.  Testing verified that the assemblies work
fine.  That said, I have seen indicators like this with the plastic
lens melted by contact with the hot lamp.  To address that issue, I am
going to use very low wattage bulbs.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1077.JPG

Here are the rest of the refurbished bits.  From left-to-right; the
kludged auxiliary power fittings, the fog lights switch, and the LEAST
useful bit of any British car: the dash light dimmer.  Really?!
Actually, its damaged inside and will be bypassed.  The knob hasn't
been acrylic coated because its broken.  I'll replace it with the
push-on aftermarket part from Moss.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1078.JPG

And finally, here is the license plate currently on the car.  The
first owner, in the mid-'50s, held some position on the consular staff
in Jordan.  I can easily read the 'C.C.125' but the Arabic text is
beyond me.  Any of you able to read it?

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1075.JPG

Happy Wednesday,

-rick

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Apr  3 18:05:43 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 18:05:43 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] The Good, the bad, the ??
Message-ID: <515CC3D7.3060303@bradakis.com>

So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support 
Team.Net
with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html - donate 
early,
donate often ]

But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of 
value.

What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to 
pontificate.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Apr  3 18:37:50 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 18:37:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <515CCB5E.50803@bradakis.com>

Richard Lindsay wrote:
> ...I did play with our new grandbaby!!!  Woohoo!
>
>
>

Nice.

I really need to get busy on a project or two.  As was mentioned doing 
even just one
thing a day gets you closer to the final goal.  The weather here in Salt 
Lake is getting
nice and warm, I need to get in the habit of spending at least half in 
hour in the
garage every day.

mjb.

From tmcnam4510 at aol.com  Wed Apr  3 19:52:25 2013
From: tmcnam4510 at aol.com (tmcnam4510 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 21:52:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t]  Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <515CCB5E.50803@bradakis.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
	<515CCB5E.50803@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CFFEEE308D0E65-19D8-7C64@webmail-d157.sysops.aol.com>

Grandbaby's are a lot better than MG's!  Tom



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>; mg-t <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Apr 3, 2013 8:59 pm
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...


Richard Lindsay wrote:
> ...I did play with our new grandbaby!!!  Woohoo!
>
>
>

Nice.

I really need to get busy on a project or two.  As was mentioned doing
even just one
thing a day gets you closer to the final goal.  The weather here in Salt
Lake is getting
nice and warm, I need to get in the habit of spending at least half in
hour in the
garage every day.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/tmcnam4510 at aol.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  3 22:46:12 2013
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 23:46:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG/Spridget Stuff on eBay ! ! !
Message-ID: <515D0594.5090205@justbrits.com>

Some kewl MG stuff ! ! !  Stumbled across it, so NFI <G> ! ! !


http://tinyurl.com/co5xe7p

or*
*
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html;jsessionid=65D46F311DB572489B86E819743612B9?_nkw=RARE%202012%201978%20MG%20MGB%20MGB%20ROADSTER%20Convertible%20Steering%20Wheel%20Sport%20Metal%20Watch&_itemId=271124758536

I have bought a few things in the past from Hong Kong, but NEVER China 
!  !

Ed

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Apr  4 01:54:42 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 08:54:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Bother...
References: <CD81AE26.44E3E%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <511A83FB29614BD6AABD14B11C9EF4CA@paul>

Exactly my thoughts when I had to re-replace one last year just a week
before the first run on the season - only 12 years.  I got two slaves
complete though, just changing the faulty one.  Bleeding only took a couple
of minutes, but then it is a single line system.  Biggest problem was not
being able to turn the brake pipe nut without the pipe going with it, so I
unscrewed the slave from the pipe and screwed the new one on, fortunately
the thread starts were compatible.  Later in the year found the V8 clutch
slave leaking after only 13 years.  Examining both I was struck by how easy
it was to push the piston with it's seal into the bore, and there was no
visible wear on the lips of the seals.  I can remember many years ago it's
been a bit of a struggle to get new seals in, and the old seals have shown
obvious wear.  Conclusion?  Current seals are too small and take very little 
wear before they give up, possibly metric rubber in Imperial bores!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The wheel cylinder can't be that old -- I can actually remember replacing
> the pair (well, all that means is within the last 15 years, I suppose).

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Thu Apr  4 06:26:24 2013
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 08:26:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c301ce312f$9f698640$de3c92c0$@com>

Where are the power sockets available? I'm working on an early Land-Rover
and need a set of those.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK


-----Original Message-----


I next cleaned and evaluated the power sockets from the instrument panel.
The metal bits are fine but the black and red insulators are shot (falling
apart) - and they're expensive.  I also don't expect to reconnect them so I
went for an alternative; two grommets in the holes with the metal bits
re-installed.  One of the grommets is now red.
Later, if I (or someone) wants to reconnect these sockets, the parts are
available.  Picture of the grommet follows, and in a later picture with the
other bits.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1074.JPG

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Apr  4 08:08:17 2013
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 09:08:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <00c301ce312f$9f698640$de3c92c0$@com>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
	<00c301ce312f$9f698640$de3c92c0$@com>
Message-ID: <60008.184.197.115.41.1365084497.squirrel@wm.wi.net>

Try Holden's.

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=082&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Wiring&agCode=0490&agName=Plugs+%26+Sockets&pCode=080.041

OR     http://tinyurl.com/cud8sxs

Also:  www.morgan-spares.com

I used the latter but they probably all get their stock from the same source.
Check which type of sockets you have; couple of different types.

Dave W.


Where are the power sockets available? I'm working on an early Land-Rover
> and need a set of those.
>
> --
> Stephen West-Fisher
> N4IK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I next cleaned and evaluated the power sockets from the instrument panel.
> The metal bits are fine but the black and red insulators are shot (falling
> apart) - and they're expensive.  I also don't expect to reconnect them so
> I
> went for an alternative; two grommets in the holes with the metal bits
> re-installed.  One of the grommets is now red.
> Later, if I (or someone) wants to reconnect these sockets, the parts are
> available.  Picture of the grommet follows, and in a later picture with
> the
> other bits.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1074.JPG
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Apr  4 08:23:08 2013
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 14:23:08 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
Message-ID: <20130404.102308.6152.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Rick,  Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progress. The photos are
impressive.  One can remove most paints from plastic, such as the signal
switch, with brake fluid.  TD's instrument lights are surprisingly bright.
There is a charming reference to them in Ken Purdy's  Kings of the Road, in
which he notes that the driver of some Detroit iron was able to see them as
the TD merrily passed him on a twisty road. .Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net, mg-t at autox.team.net,  Neil Shannon
<neiltshannon at gmail.com>, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante at gmail.com>,  Ed Helsing
<jlhceh at gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 18:34:29 -0500

...I did play with our new grandbaby!!!  Woohoo!

Hello Friends,

I did make progress this afternoon so I'll share that work.

First of all, I cleaned the choke cable, inside and out, and cleaned
away a little surface rust on the outer sheath.  I also cleaned and

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Apr  4 09:05:35 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 16:05:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
References: <20130404.102308.6152.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <E889C12FD07C4FD388BA108C16BA1002@paul>

FWIW Bud Krueger shows the warning lights at least having a series 
resistance to dim them http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/Indicators.htm

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  TD's instrument lights are surprisingly bright.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Apr  4 10:16:12 2013
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 11:16:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <60008.184.197.115.41.1365084497.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
	<00c301ce312f$9f698640$de3c92c0$@com>
	<60008.184.197.115.41.1365084497.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
Message-ID: <515DA74C.3010503@wi.net>

Actually here's where I bought the sockets:

http://mogparts.net/index.php/electrical/other-electrical.html

Part# ELM031

Melvyn Rutter Ltd.  Morgan dealer extraordinaire.   You can request an 
image.  Very nice people to work with.  I rang him up to ask some other 
tech questions.

DW


On 4/4/2013 9:08 AM, dwoerpel at wi.net wrote:
> Try Holden's.
>
> http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=082&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Wiring&agCode=0490&agName=Plugs+%26+Sockets&pCode=080.041
>
> OR     http://tinyurl.com/cud8sxs
>
> Also:  www.morgan-spares.com
>
> I used the latter but they probably all get their stock from the same source.
> Check which type of sockets you have; couple of different types.
>
> Dave W.
>
>
> Where are the power sockets available? I'm working on an early Land-Rover
>> and need a set of those.
>>
>> --
>> Stephen West-Fisher
>> N4IK
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>
>> I next cleaned and evaluated the power sockets from the instrument panel.
>> The metal bits are fine but the black and red insulators are shot (falling
>> apart) - and they're expensive.  I also don't expect to reconnect them so
>> I
>> went for an alternative; two grommets in the holes with the metal bits
>> re-installed.  One of the grommets is now red.
>> Later, if I (or someone) wants to reconnect these sockets, the parts are
>> available.  Picture of the grommet follows, and in a later picture with
>> the
>> other bits.
>>
>> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1074.JPG

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Thu Apr  4 11:10:07 2013
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 13:10:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <60008.184.197.115.41.1365084497.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
	<00c301ce312f$9f698640$de3c92c0$@com>
	<60008.184.197.115.41.1365084497.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
Message-ID: <016901ce3157$41c490c0$c54db240$@com>

Thanks!
I've gotten some off list replies as well, this is all handy since I'm
probably going to have to find a lot of little pieces that are not available
through Land-Rover parts distributers.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK


-----Original Message-----
From: dwoerpel at wi.net [mailto:dwoerpel at wi.net] 
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 10:08 AM
To: Stephen West-Fisher
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...

Try Holden's.

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=082&sgName=Electrical
&pgName=Wiring&agCode=0490&agName=Plugs+%26+Sockets&pCode=080.041

OR     http://tinyurl.com/cud8sxs

Also:  www.morgan-spares.com

I used the latter but they probably all get their stock from the same
source.
Check which type of sockets you have; couple of different types.

Dave W.


Where are the power sockets available? I'm working on an early Land-Rover
> and need a set of those.
>
> --
> Stephen West-Fisher
> N4IK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I next cleaned and evaluated the power sockets from the instrument panel.
> The metal bits are fine but the black and red insulators are shot 
> (falling
> apart) - and they're expensive.  I also don't expect to reconnect them 
> so I went for an alternative; two grommets in the holes with the metal 
> bits re-installed.  One of the grommets is now red.
> Later, if I (or someone) wants to reconnect these sockets, the parts 
> are available.  Picture of the grommet follows, and in a later picture 
> with the other bits.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1074.JPG
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Apr  4 11:45:28 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 10:45:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CD830A48.44EB4%mvheim@sonic.net>

Dang, Rick is making us all look bad. Great to see a project progressing
from day one.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/3/13 4:34 PM, Richard Lindsay at richardolindsay at gmail.com wrote:

> ...I did play with our new grandbaby!!!  Woohoo!
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I did make progress this afternoon so I'll share that work.
> 
> First of all, I cleaned the choke cable, inside and out, and cleaned
> away a little surface rust on the outer sheath.  I also cleaned and
> sprayed the knob with clear acrylic.  Once dry, the cable got lightly
> oiled.  Here are the two cables, ready to re-install.
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1073.JPG
> 
> I next cleaned, refinished and tested the turn signal switch.  When
> some PO painted the dash black, the handle also got painted - kinda.
> Here it is refinished and ready to reassemble and re-install.
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1072.JPG
> 
> I next cleaned and evaluated the power sockets from the instrument
> panel.  The metal bits are fine but the black and red insulators are
> shot (falling apart) - and they're expensive.  I also don't expect to
> reconnect them so I went for an alternative; two grommets in the holes
> with the metal bits re-installed.  One of the grommets is now red.
> Later, if I (or someone) wants to reconnect these sockets, the parts
> are available.  Picture of the grommet follows, and in a later picture
> with the other bits.
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1074.JPG
> 
> The next repairs were made to the 'ignition', 'low fuel' and 'turn
> signal' lights.  As many of you might know, the lamps are 2-1/2 volt
> units in series with a coils of wire serving as a dropping resistors.
> Unfortunately, the resistive wires were damaged on all sockets and
> were damaged further upon removal from the instrument panel.  Instead
> of buying replacements or fighting many feet of tiny wire, I modified
> the lamp holders by jumpering across the ballast contacts and
> switching to 12 volt bulbs.  Testing verified that the assemblies work
> fine.  That said, I have seen indicators like this with the plastic
> lens melted by contact with the hot lamp.  To address that issue, I am
> going to use very low wattage bulbs.
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1077.JPG
> 
> Here are the rest of the refurbished bits.  From left-to-right; the
> kludged auxiliary power fittings, the fog lights switch, and the LEAST
> useful bit of any British car: the dash light dimmer.  Really?!
> Actually, its damaged inside and will be bypassed.  The knob hasn't
> been acrylic coated because its broken.  I'll replace it with the
> push-on aftermarket part from Moss.
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1078.JPG
> 
> And finally, here is the license plate currently on the car.  The
> first owner, in the mid-'50s, held some position on the consular staff
> in Jordan.  I can easily read the 'C.C.125' but the Arabic text is
> beyond me.  Any of you able to read it?
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1075.JPG
> 
> Happy Wednesday,
> 
> -rick

From wkilleffer at epbfi.com  Thu Apr  4 12:40:06 2013
From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (William Killeffer)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 14:40:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Update to lighting issue and another question
Message-ID: <374AF1AC-6AD8-40DF-9EAC-62646AF6440C@epbfi.com>

Recently, I posted an issue where my headlights were working well, but none of
the other lights would come on when the headlights were turned on.

This lead me to a very zealous cleaning of all the ground points that I could
find in the back of the car, and a cleaning of those points on the front turn
signal lights. The front sidemarker lights have different issues, as the one
on the right has had its wires cut off really short, and the one on the left
has also had a wire cut, but I was able to reconnect it.

Also, I cleaned all the contacts on the fuse box, but in the beginning, this
did not make a difference. So, I looked at the headlight switch, which was a
recent replacement. Everything was connected, but even connecting the brown
wire directly to the red/green wires resulted in nothing but instrument panel
lights coming on. There was no voltage at the red/green wire on the fuse box.

While examining the turn signal connector and other connectors under the
instrument panel, I discovered that the red/green wire in the wiring connector
had popped loose from the connector block. Once I put it back into place, the
lights functioned as designed.

The problem is that the left side front sidemarker light still does not light
up. It could be a bad bulb, but I want to clean its ground connection. Trouble
is, I am not sure where that is. A previous email mentioned a grounding point
near the starter relay, but I am not sure where that is located. Any advice
would be appreciated.

Thank you,

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  4 14:20:49 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 13:20:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Bother...
In-Reply-To: <CD81AE26.44E3E%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CD81AE26.44E3E%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1365106849.63232.YahooMailNeo@web164902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

It would be interesting if a missing grille badge led to a complete repaint!
Talk about a $1 part leading to spending several
thousand!

Dan D
'65 B
'76 B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: Max Heim
<mvheim at sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 3,
2013 1:00 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Bother...
 
Putting my bike away last evening, I
saw a puddle under the left rear tire
of the MG. Brake fluid. Last drove it on
Friday, and the brakes were fine.

The wheel cylinder can't be that old -- I
can actually remember replacing
the pair (well, all that means is within the
last 15 years, I suppose).
Since it's my only car right now, I got on the web
to Moss and ordered two
rebuild kits, plus clips and boots, 2nd day air, with
the idea of dealing
with it this weekend.

The brake work isn't bad (and there
is a nice tip on the Moss site about how
to handle the silly clips), it's the
interminable bleeding I'm not looking
forward to.

Hmm, maybe I should have
ordered shoes... They are probably soaked. I
suppose it's possible they could
be sourced locally.

In other news, the badge fell off the grill somewhere,
leaving an empty
escutcheon. I have a new-in-box grill, but I found out years
ago that it
wouldn't fit without grinding away a lot of body filler (the PO
fitted a 73
grill, which has a shallower surround). I was always waiting for
when I
fitted the replacement fenders, but maybe I should just get cracking on
it
as a minor project, and fit the new hood at the same time -- the car would
almost look respectable (well, if it were painted).


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB
GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome
wires
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Apr  4 14:30:33 2013
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:30:33 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in the big city
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA6C239496@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

I had been planning on sending a variation of this email out as I had a
question on MG daily driving in the big city. Due to several reasons, I
decided to look for a new job in the Northwest Pacific (USA) in the
Portland/Seattle region. I applied for a few jobs but one of my nagging
concerns was driving. I have 3 MGs and a Land Rover that I drive. Yet during
my many trips to Seattle and Portland, I have never seen any LBCs on the road,
except when car shows are being held. Does anyone use their MGs as daily
drivers in these or other big cities? I did apply for a position at Portland
State University but they indicate that they discourage commuters, preferring
employees to use public transportation.

However, my question may be somewhat moot now, except for curiosity. During my
job search, I came upon a job in eastern Washington at Washington State
University. Not quite the area I was originally looking at (as its about 250
miles to the east) but it looked interesting and the job was at a much larger
university than the one I currently work at (Montana State University). So I
applied and checked the place out. A large university (20.000+ students) in a
rural community - rolling wheat field terrain with lots of small towns. Just
got the job offer today so I am excited with the move. I just have to make
sure I find a place in one of the surrounding towns and I will have a nice
work 10 mile plus commute on two lane highways with lots of curves. It is
going to be great driving. Anyone one else in the area
(Spokane-Pullman-Moscow)?

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Apr  4 14:34:48 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 13:34:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Bother...
In-Reply-To: <1365106849.63232.YahooMailNeo@web164902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CD8331F8.44ED1%mvheim@sonic.net>

Heh heh, no, I just meant patch & primer and a temp topcoat.

My OTHER car has been in the shop for over 4 months for basically a full
body resto based on a relatively minor fender-bender in traffic, though, so
I know how that goes...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/4/13 1:20 PM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> It would be interesting if a missing grille badge led to a complete repaint!
> Talk about a $1 part leading to spending several
> thousand!
> 
> Dan D
> '65 B
> '76 B
> Central NJ USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
>  From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2013 1:00 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Bother...
>  
> Putting my bike away last evening, I saw a puddle under the left rear tire
> of the MG. Brake fluid. Last drove it on Friday, and the brakes were fine.
> 
> The wheel cylinder can't be that old -- I can actually remember replacing
> the pair (well, all that means is within the last 15 years, I suppose).
> Since it's my only car right now, I got on the web to Moss and ordered two
> rebuild kits, plus clips and boots, 2nd day air, with the idea of dealing
> with it this weekend.
> 
> The brake work isn't bad (and there is a nice tip on the Moss site about how
> to handle the silly clips), it's the interminable bleeding I'm not looking
> forward to.
> 
> Hmm, maybe I should have ordered shoes... They are probably soaked. I
> suppose it's possible they could be sourced locally.
> 
> In other news, the badge fell off the grill somewhere, leaving an empty
> escutcheon. I have a new-in-box grill, but I found out years ago that it
> wouldn't fit without grinding away a lot of body filler (the PO fitted a 73
> grill, which has a shallower surround). I was always waiting for when I
> fitted the replacement fenders, but maybe I should just get cracking on it
> as a minor project, and fit the new hood at the same time -- the car would
> almost look respectable (well, if it were painted).
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Apr  4 15:17:34 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 16:17:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Update to lighting issue and another question
In-Reply-To: <374AF1AC-6AD8-40DF-9EAC-62646AF6440C@epbfi.com>
References: <374AF1AC-6AD8-40DF-9EAC-62646AF6440C@epbfi.com>
Message-ID: <201304042117.r34LHLex028002@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

William,

Front sidelamps should have three wires, including a black grouinding 
wire.  This black wire plugs into a twin tube snap connector to 
ground headlampadn sidelamp to one black wire in the harness.  Final 
grounding point for that black harness wire (originally) is a hex nut 
on the tip of a longer fender bolt, second bolt above the air pan on 
right side, close to where youi find a bundle of snap connestors for 
the RH lamps

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 02:40 PM 4/4/2013 -0400, William Killeffer wrote:
>....
>The problem is that the left side front sidemarker light still does 
>not light up. It could be a bad bulb, but I want to clean its ground 
>connection. Trouble is, I am not sure where that is. A previous 
>email mentioned a grounding point near the starter relay, but I am 
>not sure where that is located. ....
>.....

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Apr  4 15:30:22 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 14:30:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in the big city
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA6C239496@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <CD833EFE.44EDA%mvheim@sonic.net>

I would have said that Portland & Seattle had a fairly thriving LBC
community, but still, you have to consider... out of a million people, how
many of them are driving their LBCs on a given day, and happen to cross your
path? For a more rigorous sampling, stake out a vantage point near 5 or 84
during commute hours.

Here in the Bay Area I see one maybe every couple of weeks, but I don't get
out much (I might only drive 4 times in two weeks). But when I do drive into
SF or Oakland, I'm just as likely to use the MGB as anything else. I don't
see any downside (other than rain -- this is a larger factor in the NW --
it's a factor for me because my top seals leak and I have summer tires) --
it gets great mileage, is nimble in traffic, and is easy to park. Of course,
mine already has an urban-industrial patina -- some people might be
concerned about vandalism or parking scrapes.

Anyway, I believe we have at least one other Pullman resident on the list.
Aaron, I think?

Should be lots of nice drives in the area, up the hills or down the gorge.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/4/13 1:30 PM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> I had been planning on sending a variation of this email out as I had a
> question on MG daily driving in the big city. Due to several reasons, I
> decided to look for a new job in the Northwest Pacific (USA) in the
> Portland/Seattle region. I applied for a few jobs but one of my nagging
> concerns was driving. I have 3 MGs and a Land Rover that I drive. Yet during
> my many trips to Seattle and Portland, I have never seen any LBCs on the road,
> except when car shows are being held. Does anyone use their MGs as daily
> drivers in these or other big cities? I did apply for a position at Portland
> State University but they indicate that they discourage commuters, preferring
> employees to use public transportation.
> 
> However, my question may be somewhat moot now, except for curiosity. During my
> job search, I came upon a job in eastern Washington at Washington State
> University. Not quite the area I was originally looking at (as its about 250
> miles to the east) but it looked interesting and the job was at a much larger
> university than the one I currently work at (Montana State University). So I
> applied and checked the place out. A large university (20.000+ students) in a
> rural community - rolling wheat field terrain with lots of small towns. Just
> got the job offer today so I am excited with the move. I just have to make
> sure I find a place in one of the surrounding towns and I will have a nice
> work 10 mile plus commute on two lane highways with lots of curves. It is
> going to be great driving. Anyone one else in the area
> (Spokane-Pullman-Moscow)?
> 
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Thu Apr  4 16:29:01 2013
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 17:29:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Bother...
In-Reply-To: <1365106849.63232.YahooMailNeo@web164902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <CD81AE26.44E3E%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<1365106849.63232.YahooMailNeo@web164902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5D694CC4485F482487B6CB4D498BD620@YOURF3E40984A8>

That's where ship fitter's or shipwright's disease comes from. The skipper
starts to replace this one, small, brass screw on the gunwale, decides to
refinish the gunwale rail, finds a little rotted wood under that, and so on
and so forth until before you know it, the whole yacht is torn down to the
keel.

I don't think there is any known inoculation against it. Hang in there!

Cheers,

David


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 3:21 PM
To: Max Heim; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Bother...

It would be interesting if a missing grille badge led to a complete repaint!
Talk about a $1 part leading to spending several
thousand!

Dan D
'65 B
'76 B
Central NJ USA

From awhitema at panix.com  Thu Apr  4 17:24:07 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 16:24:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in the big city
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA6C239496@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA6C239496@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <72E905ED-E698-4728-BCA1-AE82881F808F@panix.com>

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 4, 2013, at 1:30 PM, "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
wrote:

> Just
> got the job offer today so I am excited with the move. I just have to make
> sure I find a place in one of the surrounding towns and I will have a nice
> work 10 mile plus commute on two lane highways with lots of curves. It is
> going to be great driving. Anyone one else in the area
> (Spokane-Pullman-Moscow)?

David, first congratulations on the job. Go Cougs!

As for your question, there's at least me (Pullman), and while I haven't seen
much this year, in the past I've always seen 1-2 MGs and discos around town.
I think the student with the classic mini is gone, unfortunately.

From awhitema at panix.com  Thu Apr  4 17:36:26 2013
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 16:36:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] rubber bits
Message-ID: <4CA9F3D0-B6B3-4755-8A87-5D648DD0A9F6@panix.com>

Since we're kind of on that subject anyway...

In the 5 years since I got my car back from paint, I've had to replace the
rubber bits that surround the windshield frame supports twice (moss part
282-450/460, part #25 at
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29043). So of
course, when I look at them today, they're cracked and full of holes.
Additionally, the outer seal for the side windows is shot, especially on the
passenger side (where the window rarely changes positions, it's almost always
down). Meanwhile, the older rubber parts (such as the bottom rail seal) that I
assume is nearly as old as the car are doing just fine.

So given that the Moss rubber parts don't seem to hold up, any suggestions on
where to go to get replacements that I won't have to replace again next
spring? Barring that, any sort of treatments I can apply to try to squeeze a
little more life out of these things?

Why is it the parts that are hardest to replace are the ones I seem to be
needing to replace the most often?

--
Aaron

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu Apr  4 20:09:14 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 21:09:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Combo oil pressure / coolant temperature gauge
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwg4Xi=4guPGPjYVcvrPSAu9XhKmngvyQy_XnGfs_Y_zA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Today was a grandbaby hugging day so not a lot of car work got done.
This evening I did clean the combo gauge and while its LOTS better, it
still has a lot of 'patina' on the face.  Here's how it looked when I
started.  (The website is REALLY slow this evening so if you can't get
to the pictures, please try a little later.  The ghost's in the
machine!)

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1070.JPG

Here it is, as it looks after tonight's work.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1080.JPG

I'll paint the gauge hands before final reassembly and put a new wrap
of green cellophane around the light opening.  These little buggers
are really expensive so I don't want to mess with it too much and risk
damage.  I think it will be just fine as is, if showing a little
character.  If I change my mind later, there are reputable shops who
can restore the instrument.

-rick

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Apr  5 01:47:42 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 08:47:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Update to lighting issue and another question
References: <374AF1AC-6AD8-40DF-9EAC-62646AF6440C@epbfi.com>
Message-ID: <7EE801BC9E4242FE904C2F2D84B5C242@paul>

An MGB, I seem to remember.  Side-marker lamps only have two wires - 12v 
supply and earth.  Originally they came on with the headlamps and there is 
an additional blue wire in the harness by the front headlights, but during 
1972 this changed to come on with the parking lights from a red wire in the 
harness by the headlights.  The earth is wired to black wires by the 
headlights, which goes back to a body earth by the starter relay.  However 
that earth also supplies the headlights, so if they are working it's not the 
body earth that is the problem.  Nor any of the connections by the 
right-hand headlight, but it could be the one bullet on the black wire from 
the side-marker by the left-hand headlight.  Locate the red and black wires 
from that side-marker, and test for voltage with a meter inside the 
bullets - don't dismantle them.  If you have no voltage on the red the 
problem could be either side of the red bullet by the left-hand headlight, 
or one bullet by the right-hand headlight.  If you have voltage on the black 
then the earth at that bullet is the problem.  If you have 12v on the red 
and nothing on the black then the problem lies between those two points i.e. 
either inside the light or the wires leading to it.

The only light unit on an MGB that has three wires including a black earth 
wire is the headlight unit.  All MGB rear light clusters have three wires 
but none are black, the light unit earths through its physical mounting. 
Chrome bumper front parking lights only have two wires and also earth 
through their physical mountings.  Rubber bumper front indicators do have a 
black earth wire but only two wires as they only have one single-filament 
bulb.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The problem is that the left side front sidemarker light still does not 
> light
> up. It could be a bad bulb, but I want to clean its ground connection. 

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Fri Apr  5 15:19:36 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 16:19:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Friday's TD work
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxMz8x=oRb1p4NBL-RYP5eSC7mYYk-6uDwGYBqu6UuZdw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

More work today.  Retirement is fun. :-P  After cleaning up the
workbench, work began on the facia.  Here's how it looked just as I
removed it from the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1081.JPG

The vinyl has been sprayed black - along with parts of the chrome
trim.  In this next close-up you can see better the original interior
green color.  The exterior of the car was originally Woodland Green.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1082.JPG

The first disassembly work started at the glove box door.  I had
previously removed the hinges.  Here's how it looked on the bench with
the chrome trim and the vinyl removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1083.JPG

In that last picture you can just see the split wood allowing screws
to work loose.  In this next picture you can easily see the wood
delaminating and splitting from years of use stressing at the wood
screw holes.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1084.JPG

Before affecting repairs to the wood, I took three photos of the facia
with the trim removed but the vinyl in place, just as a reminder of
how the factory attached the vinyl.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1085.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1086.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1087.JPG

I then set about repairing the glove box door wood.  After a good
cleaning, I flowed waterproof wood glue between the laminae and into
the splits.  I then clamped the wood closed and wiped away any glue
oozing from the repairs.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1088.JPG

Working all around the door (until I ran out of clamps) I repeated the process.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1089.JPG

That work is now drying and won't be touched until later tomorrow.  I
then removed the windscreen and the mounts.  Here's how the metal
looks.  Yes, I have some work to do here.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1090.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1091.JPG

In the second picture, you may have noticed that the inside rear-view
mirror has also been removed.  It looked TERRIBLE and I felt that it
was a goner - until I attacked it with Semichrome polish and fine
steel wool.  Its totally restored now and looks awesome.  I didn't get
a picture after I finished but here's a look at it just after
discovering that it WOULD clean up nicely.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130405_143922.jpg

And that's where work ended for today.  Time for the shower.  Nancy
says I stink. :-o

-rick

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Apr  6 16:58:01 2013
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 18:58:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Friday's TD work
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1365271201.18781.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1365271201.18781.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ED854B3CCF1744E69C81AB5B8BFD5731@EricJRussellPC>

> Subject: [Mgs] Friday's TD work

> And that's where work ended for today.  Time for the shower.  Nancy
> says I stink.

http://www.gearheadshampoo.com/gearhead-shampoo-muscle.html 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell 

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun Apr  7 06:45:14 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 07:45:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Wood eye?!
Message-ID: <9w6tdra3w5en9pl3jsmwgqvq.1365338714239@email.android.com>

Morning Friends,B 

B The garage/shop is a mess. B The guy who wrote, "A disassembled car takes up three times the space of an assembled one." really understood the process! B Actually, I've been quite good at keeping my tools clean and organized but I have to admit, the workbenches are now covered with little piles of screws and brackets. B Its time for a cleanup and sorting bits into labeled ZipLoc baggies.

With the benches cleared and clean I can get back to repairing wood. B I have one corner on the glovebox door left to repair and a number of places on the inner facia board to re-cement. B Delaminating plywood layers, just as on the door. B There's also a big crack, split really, on the lower edge where oversized wood screws were used to reattach the under-dash trim panel. B That split too will be glued back together. B Pictures to follow once I get my lazy butt up and going this morning.B 

I started on the floorboards yesterday, taking the seats out and vacuuming years of dirt, decaying carpet bits and mouse nest debris away. B Of course, a couple of the seat rail bolts twisted off but that's okay. They will be replaced anyway. B I then decided that I had had enough for the day and didn't want to wallow around on the garage floor fighting rusted floorboard nuts and bolts. B And that's probably why I left the garage a mess. B Well, that and Nancy's reminder that I said I'd help with the spring cleaning. :-o

Retirement is really busy! B I may have to go back to work just to slow down!

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Sun Apr  7 07:52:24 2013
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 9:52:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB front suspension
Message-ID: <20130407135224.C66KW.858557.imail@eastrmwml107>

Anyone have any experience with Castor adjustment shims or negative camber control arms?
I have a '76 MGB that has been lowered front and back, has a 3/4" front sway bar and 15 "  wheels
with radial tires.  The car is a daily driver and handles great on the interstate but the steering is very heavy
at speed on winding roads.  Looking for suggestions on improving the handling and ride quality.
Tks.
DV

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun Apr  7 08:26:24 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 15:26:24 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB front suspension
References: <20130407135224.C66KW.858557.imail@eastrmwml107>
Message-ID: <4F1FC3CA7DBA4CFDA76EA47CD788190B@paul>

What speed?  Shouldn't be heavy at speed, most people do castor reduction to 
help with parking speeds.  While both mine are pretty heavy when parking 
once rolling at any speed I'm not aware of steering, almost like just having 
to think it round and it goes round.  What's it like with the front wheels 
off the ground?  You should be able to turn it easily from lock to lock with 
a little finger-tip.  Problems in the rack and king-pins will make that 
heavier.  Lack of grease in the king-pins will probably make turning with 
the wheels on the ground even heavier.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... the steering is very heavy
> at speed on winding roads. 

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Apr  7 10:23:40 2013
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 12:23:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB front suspension
In-Reply-To: <20130407135224.C66KW.858557.imail@eastrmwml107>
References: <20130407135224.C66KW.858557.imail@eastrmwml107>
Message-ID: <E1UOsSo-0001WR-Kh@beta.look.ca>

DV,

I fitted camber adjusting shims which were little plastic wedges  I 
think they are on the www.britcot.com website.  Did not seem to make 
a big difference but my steering has always been pretty light - but 
then again I am in the world of TDs, TRs and Healeys so my light 
maybe your heavy.   Using power steering rather destroys ones notion 
of he-man steering


At 09:52 AM 4/7/2013 -0400, dannyvarnado at cox.net wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with Castor adjustment shims or negative 
>camber control arms?
>I have a '76 MGB that has been lowered front and back, has a 3/4" 
>front sway bar and 15 "  wheels
>with radial tires.  The car is a daily driver and handles great on 
>the interstate but the steering is very heavy
>at speed on winding roads.  Looking for suggestions on improving the 
>handling and ride quality.
>Tks.
>DV
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Apr  7 10:32:08 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 09:32:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB front suspension
In-Reply-To: <20130407135224.C66KW.858557.imail@eastrmwml107>
References: <20130407135224.C66KW.858557.imail@eastrmwml107>
Message-ID: <626B4950-AA3B-468A-A752-8BFFA2D1C746@gmail.com>

There is a reason early Bs had a huge steering wheel, and wasn't for looks.
Assuming no mechanical issues reducing the caster will lower the steering
effort, but will also reduce the steering system tendency to return to
straight ahead.
Driving a car without enough caster is a PITA as far as I am concerned YMMV.
Rick.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2013, at 6:52, <dannyvarnado at cox.net> wrote:

> The car is a daily driver and handles great on the interstate but the
steering is very heavy
> at speed on winding roads.  Looking for suggestions on improving the
handling

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Apr  7 13:46:59 2013
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 15:46:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Wood eye?!
In-Reply-To: <9w6tdra3w5en9pl3jsmwgqvq.1365338714239@email.android.com>
References: <9w6tdra3w5en9pl3jsmwgqvq.1365338714239@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <E1UOvYL-0006Qs-P7@gamma.look.ca>

Rick,

I have been through an Austin Healey, MGB GT V8 and now a 1957 Aston 
Martin so I am well versed in an explosion of parts !   I have a 
garage full of bits, a workshop in the house with 8 big Rubbermaid 
cupboards, workbench with peg board back.............all with parts 
!  Despite my experience with the first two cars I still did not take 
enough photos and not enough "general" ones.   Thank god for digital 
cameras - I spent a fortune on photos for the AH.  I also did not do 
enough hand drawn diagrams.  Incidently, the Aston is far far more 
complicated than the MGB and takes a lot of room.  For instance, on 
the MGB the front torsion bar (ant-sway bar) is a bare rod held to 
the chassis with two rubber sleeved brackets.   The Aston torsion bar 
has a three piece cast aluminium assembly each with 12 bolts to hold 
them together, 4 (that's four) ball and needle bearings, splined high 
grade steel torsion bar,  and it is filled with oil !!  That alone 
takes an acre of ground :-).



At 07:45 AM 07/04/2013 -0500, you wrote:
>Morning Friends,B
>
>B The garage/shop is a mess. B The guy who wrote, "A disassembled 
>car takes up three times the space of an assembled one." really 
>understood the process! B Actually, I've been quite good at keeping 
>my tools clean and organized but I have to admit, the workbenches 
>are now covered with little piles of screws and brackets. B Its time 
>for a cleanup and sorting bits into labeled ZipLoc baggies.
>
>With the benches cleared and clean I can get back to repairing wood. 
>B I have one corner on the glovebox door left to repair and a number 
>of places on the inner facia board to re-cement. B Delaminating 
>plywood layers, just as on the door. B There's also a big crack, 
>split really, on the lower edge where oversized wood screws were 
>used to reattach the under-dash trim panel. B That split too will be 
>glued back together. B Pictures to follow once I get my lazy butt up 
>and going this morning.B
>
>I started on the floorboards yesterday, taking the seats out and 
>vacuuming years of dirt, decaying carpet bits and mouse nest debris 
>away. B Of course, a couple of the seat rail bolts twisted off but 
>that's okay. They will be replaced anyway. B I then decided that I 
>had had enough for the day and didn't want to wallow around on the 
>garage floor fighting rusted floorboard nuts and bolts. B And that's 
>probably why I left the garage a mess. B Well, that and Nancy's 
>reminder that I said I'd help with the spring cleaning. :-o
>
>Retirement is really busy! B I may have to go back to work just to slow down!
>
>-rick
>Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded 
>corners, just like a BlackBerry.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun Apr  7 14:50:48 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 15:50:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Okay, this is just weird.
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwBJQrnOECHRoWBhRHOzO27zBjWVjZfoYgLrjTqaPhu_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Today, I removed the trim from the TD's doors.  Inside I found one
plastic chopstix laying on the bottom timber of each door.  Yes, BOTH
doors!

Freekin' weird.

-rick

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  7 15:09:32 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 15:09:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Okay, this is just weird.
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dwBJQrnOECHRoWBhRHOzO27zBjWVjZfoYgLrjTqaPhu_Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dwBJQrnOECHRoWBhRHOzO27zBjWVjZfoYgLrjTqaPhu_Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5161E08C.6010808@bradakis.com>

Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Today, I removed the trim from the TD's doors.  Inside I found one
> plastic chopstix laying on the bottom timber of each door.  Yes, BOTH
> doors!
>

Gotta keep the weight distribution even from side to side.

mjb.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Apr  8 10:18:56 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 11:18:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] '53 M.G. TD documentation pictures
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwZPKCDhYhQcyDAL6vx7R9=VLdRhLsG7TGq8vbABwhRZA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Today I just took a lot of 'documentation' pictures.  At reassembly
time, there can NEVER be TOO MANY pictures - although I do take a
lot...

If you would like to see more 'before' pictures of the '53 TD's
various bits, go to www.aubard.us/MGTD and start at picture:

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1092.JPG

...through...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1176.JPG

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Apr  8 17:36:03 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 18:36:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] TD body, door experiment
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwtR4UxmiCi+w7X7V4NCTKUfKcGi+yraPUjz+9U++zUUg@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Today was a play-with-grand-baby-day, except for a couple of hours
this afternoon.  In that free time, I removed the driver's door and
began the process of stripping paint.  Yea, this work is WAY premature
but please consider it an exploratory experiment.  Here are a few
pictures;

Starting off, here's a look inside of the driver's door.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1146.JPG

As you can see, the latch mechanism has been removed.  Here's a little
closer look at that end of the door.  You can see that the timbers are
in good shape.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1147.JPG

Over at the hinge-end, you can see there's a little more surface rust,
but nothing hatefull or beyond what a wire brushing and a coat of
POR15 can't handle.  Same is true of the body and hinge attachment.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1148.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1149.JPG

The 'stop' is in good shape as are the hinges.  They're adequately
tight yielding no door sag.

I removed the bolts securing the door to the hinges.  That was a tough
one!  The bolts are rusted nastily and will have to be replaced.  Moss
sells a kit of all screws and bolts to redo the doors.

I took the door to the workbench and began stripping paint.  Aircraft
Stripper was used.  Here's how it looks.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1177.JPG

You can see the places where the surface rust has eaten into the metal
- especially at the edges.  The metal is NOT perforated and once
sanded and sealed, will be just fine.  Here's a closer look at the
lower edge.  Please remember that nothing has yet been sanded or
ground away.  This is just how it looks with the paint stripped.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1178.JPG

Tomorrow I will finish stripping the paint and go after the rust with
the sander.  I'll also flip the door over, tighten the screws and
re-seat or replace the nails, as required, THEN add POR15 to the
cleaned, rusty areas.  More pictures posted then.

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue Apr  9 17:40:05 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 18:40:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Thank you List!
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dw0ZFnRFCVFAtSabADvuEOM+RTbcEQ0gU-UXz4uz06X+w@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

I'd like to thank the list-member who argued that I should bite the
bullet and buy the correct Moss paint for the TD's instrument cluster.
 Sadly, I can't remember who it was.  I was leaning toward using some
kind of paint from the garage shelf, probably because of my Scottish
ancestry (read: being CHEAP).  However, I did order the correct paint
and here are the results.

First of all, I stripped the old finish with Aircraft Stripper...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg

..., then polished the chrome edges of the panel.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg

I then taped and primered with an automotive primer that adheres
better to bare metal, like chrome.  I then applied the first mist coat
of paint.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_171710.jpg

And here's how it looks now with two coats of the Moss finish and the
masking tape removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_172451_1.jpg

I think it looks AWESOME.  Thank you MG List!

And now, I have a question for you same great guys.

What color are the blind-headed screws used to attach the panel?  I've
seen pictures of black screws and screws painted with the bronze
paint.  Which is 'correct', if either?

-rick

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 10 10:04:04 2013
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike E)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 12:04:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Thank you List!
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dw0ZFnRFCVFAtSabADvuEOM+RTbcEQ0gU-UXz4uz06X+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dw0ZFnRFCVFAtSabADvuEOM+RTbcEQ0gU-UXz4uz06X+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU177-W371DEA9D7D8C12AC72E0B4B7C70@phx.gbl>

It looks great.  I really need to do the one in my TF.  -Mike
EldredWilmington, VT

> Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 18:40:05 -0500
> From: richardolindsay at gmail.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; rui.gigante at gmail.com
> Subject: [Mg-t] Thank you List!
>
> Hello Friends,
>
> I'd like to thank the list-member who argued that I should bite the
> bullet and buy the correct Moss paint for the TD's instrument cluster.
>  Sadly, I can't remember who it was.  I was leaning toward using some
> kind of paint from the garage shelf, probably because of my Scottish
> ancestry (read: being CHEAP).  However, I did order the correct paint
> and here are the results.
>
> First of all, I stripped the old finish with Aircraft Stripper...
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg
>
> ..., then polished the chrome edges of the panel.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg
>
> I then taped and primered with an automotive primer that adheres
> better to bare metal, like chrome.  I then applied the first mist coat
> of paint.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_171710.jpg
>
> And here's how it looks now with two coats of the Moss finish and the
> masking tape removed.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_172451_1.jpg
>
> I think it looks AWESOME.  Thank you MG List!
>
> And now, I have a question for you same great guys.
>
> What color are the blind-headed screws used to attach the panel?  I've
> seen pictures of black screws and screws painted with the bronze
> paint.  Which is 'correct', if either?
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From montejane at gmail.com  Wed Apr 10 16:20:13 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 17:20:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Remote starter
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHqDZjjS6tkMZdPqmtsr9ZLb=JpajZv7GBsu6BkugnE0uA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm just now getting around to the 4 month old non-starting problem on our
79B (with HIF's and dizzy).
I have a cheap push button remote starter that I need to hook up so I don't
require the wife to be in the cold garage:). Where under the bonnet do I
hook the red and black alligator clips attached to the remote starter?
Thanks,
Monte

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Apr 10 17:25:55 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:25:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Remote starter
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHqDZjjS6tkMZdPqmtsr9ZLb=JpajZv7GBsu6BkugnE0uA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHqDZjjS6tkMZdPqmtsr9ZLb=JpajZv7GBsu6BkugnE0uA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TpzLJeCvxdQduyQ02t4RZjhv0rK7UeQm8XTa729H6o+_g@mail.gmail.com>

One of the alligator clips to a battery positive, usually the big fat
battery cable that feeds the starter.  The other alligator clip to the
small wire from the key that attaches to the solenoid.

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr 11 00:45:05 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 00:45:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] 22 and counting
Message-ID: <51665BF1.4020400@bradakis.com>

April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few years 
before
that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been a 
long ride
from those days until now.  We are still here.

And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?

If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
towards keeping it on the air:

http://www.team.net/donations.html

mjb.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Apr 11 01:37:44 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 08:37:44 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Remote starter
References: <CAHEsxHqDZjjS6tkMZdPqmtsr9ZLb=JpajZv7GBsu6BkugnE0uA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B458E8A7CF05481288781336037C2C1A@paul>

>From 1970 MGBs had a starter relay, and as the solenoid takes quite a bit of 
current it's best to connect your pushbutton between the purple wire at the 
fusebox (as that is live and fused) and the white/red on the starter relay. 
The 79 has two relays, the other is the ignition relay.  The starter relay 
is probably the one on the bulkhead side of the fusebox, and the ignition 
relay on the other side of the fusebox.  Both have brown and black wires, 
the starter relay also has a thin white/red and thicker white/brown, the 
ignition relay has white and white/brown wires.  If the colours have faded 
or got mucky you can confirm which is the *ignition* relay as that will 
click as you turn the ignition on and off, so the starter relay will be the 
other one.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... Where under the bonnet do I
> hook the red and black alligator clips attached to the remote starter?

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Apr 11 03:29:32 2013
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 11:29:32 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Remote starter
In-Reply-To: <CACOF-TpzLJeCvxdQduyQ02t4RZjhv0rK7UeQm8XTa729H6o+_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHqDZjjS6tkMZdPqmtsr9ZLb=JpajZv7GBsu6BkugnE0uA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CACOF-TpzLJeCvxdQduyQ02t4RZjhv0rK7UeQm8XTa729H6o+_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801ce3697$12e9d900$38bd8b00$@planet.nl>

Are these named alligator clips? IMHO these are pretty small - does the name
Hippo clips exist?

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens
Richard Ewald
Verzonden: donderdag 11 april 2013 1:26
Aan: Monte Jane Morris
CC: MG list
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Remote starter

One of the alligator clips to a battery positive, usually the big fat
battery cable that feeds the starter.  The other alligator clip to the small
wire from the key that attaches to the solenoid.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Apr 11 03:49:41 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 10:49:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Remote starter
References: <CAHEsxHqDZjjS6tkMZdPqmtsr9ZLb=JpajZv7GBsu6BkugnE0uA@mail.gmail.com><CACOF-TpzLJeCvxdQduyQ02t4RZjhv0rK7UeQm8XTa729H6o+_g@mail.gmail.com>
	<000801ce3697$12e9d900$38bd8b00$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <4B796FE6593C46D0A7724C606DC49CF0@paul>

Alligator clips were always small in my day, and fine for spades on things 
like the fusebox and starter relay, although these are often shrouded.  You 
certainly wouldn't want to go back to the battery with one lead when there 
is 12v in the engine compartment anyway.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Are these named alligator clips? IMHO these are pretty small - does the 
> name
> Hippo clips exist?
>
> One of the alligator clips to a battery positive, usually the big fat
> battery cable that feeds the starter. 

From pchast at francomm.com  Thu Apr 11 08:13:43 2013
From: pchast at francomm.com (P. Chast)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 10:13:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Remote starter
In-Reply-To: <B458E8A7CF05481288781336037C2C1A@paul>
References: <CAHEsxHqDZjjS6tkMZdPqmtsr9ZLb=JpajZv7GBsu6BkugnE0uA@mail.gmail.com>
	<B458E8A7CF05481288781336037C2C1A@paul>
Message-ID: <op.wvdq5atbtqb2bu@sunnyta>

Hi

It should be noted that it takes verrrry little current to turn
on the relay that provides the power to start the car. So those
alligator clips are more than sufficient. The remote starter would
burn up if used to provide current to the starter directly.

Pete



>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> ... Where under the bonnet do I
>> hook the red and black alligator clips attached to the remote starter?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com


-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary email client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Apr 11 10:16:01 2013
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 11:16:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] April 11 and [Spridgets] 22 and counting
In-Reply-To: <51665A5A.4070703@bradakis.com>
References: <51665A5A.4070703@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5166E1C1.8010404@wi.net>

Hmmm, 4/11 has become a very significant date in most of our lives.  The 
beginning of our ties with each other through our hobby and the passing 
of one of the "Spirits of the List".
Worth another donation to me!  Thank you Mark and the rest of the 
list(s) for making the lists a family.

Here's part of my album: *http://tinyurl.com/d7xmp93

http://www1.snapfish.com/snapfish/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=6549829015/a=4424239_4424239/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/
*
Pay it forward,

Dave Woerpel
59 :{)
59  MGA 1500


Thanks for beating me to posting this Jay. This day hangs over all our
minds throughout the year as tears roll the closer we approach it : (
Love you, miss you Frank : (
http://www.spritespot.com/gallery/Deep-Pink-Sprite/Frank_and_his_Austin_Healey_Speedwell
Lin


On 4/11/2013 1:38 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> A number of you already tossed into the hat on the Weber carb deal.
>  Thanks, you're off the hook.  Here's what I'm sending to the other 
> popular lists:
>
>
> April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few 
> years before
> that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been 
> a long ride
> from those days until now.  We are still here.
>
> And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?
>
> If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
> towards keeping it on the air:
>
> http://www.team.net/donations.html
>
> mjb.
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/dwoerpel at wi.net

From donotreply at snapfish.com  Thu Apr 11 10:26:00 2013
From: donotreply at snapfish.com (Lucas Mowog)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 09:26:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] You're invited to view my photos!
Message-ID: <26859613.1365697560143.JavaMail.dev@sf1-workflow6.hob3.sfo1.snapfish.com>

OK, let's try this again.  Here's some of my Frank album.


---------------------------------------------------
Lucas has invited you to view some photos

You have 50 free prints+

A note from Lucas:

 OK, let's try this again.  Here's some of my Frank album.



        View the photos:
    http://www1.snapfish.com/snapfish/share/p=351111365697551131/l=1181450501
5/g=4424239/cobrandOid=1000/campaignName=ShareeNewReg_30FreePrints_2010Feb/ot
sc=SYE/otsi=SANR


        Do more with Snapfish:
        - Upload & Store Photos
    - Share with Your Network
    - Order prints
    - Create photo gifts




Snapfish - the best value in photography.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Apr 11 10:34:37 2013
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 11:34:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Frank album
Message-ID: <5166E61D.1060107@wi.net>

Sorry folks apparently following the snapfish instructions only results 
in you having to register....that sucks.  Ed, can't send 50 pics to 
you.  Sorry.

Dave W.   WWFD........have a beer!

From rmort at bezeqint.net  Thu Apr 11 10:56:22 2013
From: rmort at bezeqint.net (R. Martin Rogovein)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 19:56:22 +0300
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5166EB36.2050303@bezeqint.net>


From rmort at bezeqint.net  Thu Apr 11 11:06:11 2013
From: rmort at bezeqint.net (R. Martin Rogovein)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 20:06:11 +0300
Subject: [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5166ED83.7060702@bezeqint.net>


From rmort at bezeqint.net  Thu Apr 11 11:11:44 2013
From: rmort at bezeqint.net (R. Martin Rogovein)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 20:11:44 +0300
Subject: [Mgs] third time's a charm (was: Rick "didn't" get a lot done today)
Message-ID: <5166EED0.90605@bezeqint.net>

Hey Rick, just in case you were still curious, the writing on the plate 
says:

Al-haia al-konsulia - Consular Authority.

Here it is in typed Arabic, don't know if this will come through on your 
computer, though:

X'YYY
X&X) X'YYYX5YY
X)

Try this, and Google translate can read it to you:
http://bit.ly/16VsLyy

I looked around for a while online, but couldn't figure out what country 
it is from, maybe somebody else can help.
I suppose it could be Jordanian, but I couldn't find a jordanian plate 
that even resembles this one.

Looks like a great project, the speed of your daily progress is making 
me jealous. Maybe I should retire now (I'm 42) and rip my B apart.
:)

Safety Fast
R. Martin Rogovein
70 roadster
Herzliya, Israel (but born and raised in Houston TX)

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------
Israel is the most dramatic country in the world.
Everybody's engaged. Everybody argues.
When I leave Israel, I get a little bit bored, you know?
--Shimon Peres
--------------------------------------------------------

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr 11 12:28:03 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 12:28:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Frank album
In-Reply-To: <5166E61D.1060107@wi.net>
References: <5166E61D.1060107@wi.net>
Message-ID: <516700B3.8020204@bradakis.com>

dwoerpel wrote:
> Sorry folks apparently following the snapfish instructions only 
> results in you having to register....that sucks.  Ed, can't send 50 
> pics to you.  Sorry.

You can put them on the Team.Net spridget forum.

mjb.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu Apr 11 13:24:13 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 14:24:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Thursday TD progress
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxBi0T34EARHdzoO6+ED2QQq-87danjXUNPPuHc47LtiA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi again Friends,

Little by little the TD project is moving along.  As I'm sure you are
aware, this is an EVERYTHING restoration.  Nothing on the car should
be by-passed.  That said, a lot of the stuff works with simple
cleaning / maintenance.  The latest in that quest is the turn signal
relay box.  Here's how it looks with the cover off.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1179.JPG

And there are two points I wish to make about this refurbishment.  (1)
The cover comes right off allowing cleaning and refinishing, BUT, it
is not keyed to fit only one way.  That means, when you take it off,
if you loose track of how it came off, you have to figure out which
side is 1-4 and which side is 5-8!  Trust me.  I learned the hard way.
 I had to go back to the wiring diagram to work it out!  (2) The
little craftsman metric wrench with the goofy box-end arrangement
works GREAT for those of us who attach rusty Whitworth bolts and nuts!
 WELL worth the investment.  (Got mine for Christmas and thought I'd
never use them!)

I cleaned the relay cover on the wire wheel then gave it a thin coat
of 'cast-coat aluminum' engine paint.  That stuff is great.  I also
burnished the relay contacts and verified that they both work, as
advertised, using my bench power supply.  Here's how the bits look
cleaned up and painted but before assembly.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1180.JPG

And after assembly (the right way around)!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1181.JPG

After that work was done, I removed the fuse block and voltage
regulator.  I have new units for both, thanks to Bill including them
with the car, so I have not spent time cleaning up these bits.  I did
repaint the mounting screw heads black (yea, I'm pathetic and need a
life).  Here's how that area looks now that the electrical bits are
removed (sans coil).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1184.JPG

I have applied rust eater to a bunch of bolts and nuts so that has to
set for a while.  In the mean time, and just for completeness, I took
a few more documentation pictures.  There's no such things as too many
pictures.  Here are a few odds and ends.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1185.JPG

Those floorboards are going to be a P.I.T.A. to remove as the nuts are
on the bottom exposed to rust-city!

The handbrake adjusters are soaking in rust eater.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1186.JPG

Same with the rear tunnel bolts.  They're soaking.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1187.JPG

Other bits.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1188.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1189.JPG

-rick

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Apr 11 15:53:09 2013
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 17:53:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] April 11 and [Spridgets] 22 and counting
In-Reply-To: <5166E1C1.8010404@wi.net>
References: <51665A5A.4070703@bradakis.com> <5166E1C1.8010404@wi.net>
Message-ID: <E1UQPXl-0003xr-Ir@gamma.look.ca>

Dave,

A very significant date is 4/11 (using the correct notation of 
dd/mm/yyyy)    It is our 49th wedding anniversary !  Please restrict 
your gifts to single bottles of single malt scotch and fine Frence 
wine as my cellar is filled with car parts



At 11:16 AM 4/11/2013 -0500, dwoerpel wrote:
>Hmmm, 4/11 has become a very significant date in most of our lives.  The
>beginning of our ties with each other through our hobby and the passing
>of one of the "Spirits of the List".
>Worth another donation to me!  Thank you Mark and the rest of the
>list(s) for making the lists a family.
>
>Here's part of my album: *http://tinyurl.com/d7xmp93
>
>http://www1.snapfish.com/snapfish/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=6549829015/a=4424239_4424239/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/
>*
>Pay it forward,
>
>Dave Woerpel
>59 :{)
>59  MGA 1500
>
>
>Thanks for beating me to posting this Jay. This day hangs over all our
>minds throughout the year as tears roll the closer we approach it : (
>Love you, miss you Frank : (
>http://www.spritespot.com/gallery/Deep-Pink-Sprite/Frank_and_his_Austin_Healey_Speedwell
>Lin
>
>
>On 4/11/2013 1:38 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > A number of you already tossed into the hat on the Weber carb deal.
> >  Thanks, you're off the hook.  Here's what I'm sending to the other
> > popular lists:
> >
> >
> > April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few
> > years before
> > that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been
> > a long ride
> > from those days until now.  We are still here.
> >
> > And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?
> >
> > If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
> > towards keeping it on the air:
> >
> > http://www.team.net/donations.html
> >
> > mjb.
> > ------------------------
> >
> > spridgets at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/dwoerpel at wi.net
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu Apr 11 16:04:23 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 17:04:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A couple pictures from yesterday
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dw-LWfwcwqkm8gbMxz05H8k8XWY6s9twtsyi16f2uDUBA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Here are a couple of pictures from work done yesterday.

The first is the glove box with new liner ready to install.  I just
need to buy some non-wetting fabric glue.  Perhaps I already
referenced this picture.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_175845.jpg

The next picture is of the driver's door with a protective coat of
rust-ending primer.  This is the end of the experiment.  I am
satisfied that we can make a very nice paint presentation.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130411_163345.jpg

Not pictured is the upper steering column support.  I removed it in
order to take the under-dash trim out (complete with mouse nests).
The support is now cleaned and repainted black.

-rick
PS: I'm fighting the urge to reassemble the dash.  The new vinyl has
arrived and all the trim is ready.  The only thing still outstanding
is a new chrome trim ring to put under the horn push.  The original is
decayed beyond tasteful reuse.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Apr 11 16:31:55 2013
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 17:31:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] April 11 and [Spridgets] 22 and counting
In-Reply-To: <E1UQPXl-0003xr-Ir@gamma.look.ca>
References: <51665A5A.4070703@bradakis.com> <5166E1C1.8010404@wi.net>
	<E1UQPXl-0003xr-Ir@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <A3835001-7DD4-4457-8E8A-B2BCB6885AF0@gmail.com>

It's our 21st anniversary as well.

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 11, 2013, at 4:53 PM, Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:

> Dave,
>
> A very significant date is 4/11 (using the correct notation of dd/mm/yyyy)
It is our 49th wedding anniversary !  Please restrict your gifts to single
bottles of single malt scotch and fine Frence wine as my cellar is filled with
car parts
>
>
>
> At 11:16 AM 4/11/2013 -0500, dwoerpel wrote:
>> Hmmm, 4/11 has become a very significant date in most of our lives.  The
>> beginning of our ties with each other through our hobby and the passing
>> of one of the "Spirits of the List".
>> Worth another donation to me!  Thank you Mark and the rest of the
>> list(s) for making the lists a family.
>>
>> Here's part of my album: *http://tinyurl.com/d7xmp93
>>
>>
http://www1.snapfish.com/snapfish/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=6549829015/a=4424239
_4424239/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/
>> *
>> Pay it forward,
>>
>> Dave Woerpel
>> 59 :{)
>> 59  MGA 1500
>>
>>
>> Thanks for beating me to posting this Jay. This day hangs over all our
>> minds throughout the year as tears roll the closer we approach it : (
>> Love you, miss you Frank : (
>>
http://www.spritespot.com/gallery/Deep-Pink-Sprite/Frank_and_his_Austin_Heale
y_Speedwell
>> Lin
>>
>>
>> On 4/11/2013 1:38 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>> > A number of you already tossed into the hat on the Weber carb deal.
>> >  Thanks, you're off the hook.  Here's what I'm sending to the other
>> > popular lists:
>> >
>> >
>> > April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few
>> > years before
>> > that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been
>> > a long ride
>> > from those days until now.  We are still here.
>> >
>> > And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?
>> >
>> > If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
>> > towards keeping it on the air:
>> >
>> > http://www.team.net/donations.html
>> >
>> > mjb.
>> > ------------------------
>> >
>> > spridgets at autox.team.net
>> >
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>> >
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/dwoerpel at wi.net
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca
>
> Regards
>
> Barrie
> barrie at look.ca
> 705-721-9060 _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri Apr 12 13:36:26 2013
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 21:36:26 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
Message-ID: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>

http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai 

Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.

Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.

 

Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.

So they may keep it.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Hans Duinhoven

 

Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Fri Apr 12 14:49:13 2013
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:49:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
References: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <FE06DC3013144A3CBC4BC8A0F7D4DA9C@YOURF3E40984A8>

That is a sinister-looking design.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it

http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai

Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.

Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
So they may keep it.

Cheers,

Hans Duinhoven

Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT

From don at napanet.net  Fri Apr 12 15:20:28 2013
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 14:20:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <FE06DC3013144A3CBC4BC8A0F7D4DA9C@YOURF3E40984A8>
References: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
	<FE06DC3013144A3CBC4BC8A0F7D4DA9C@YOURF3E40984A8>
Message-ID: <mailman.769.1365801718.2062.mgs@autox.team.net>

Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to 
appreciate it.  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of 
his/her youth.  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about 
1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.

It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages 
and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.  I have a fellow 
from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.  He is the 
same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.  He thinks 
my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.  I 
wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when 
he was a kid and young adult.

----------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars





At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
>That is a sinister-looking design.
>
>David
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
>Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
>To: mgs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>
>http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>
>Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>
>Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>So they may keep it.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Hans Duinhoven
>
>Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Fri Apr 12 15:55:49 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:55:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
Message-ID: <hcwapyy1m6p26sppgasc3raq.1365803749193@email.android.com>

Naaa Don. B That car is butt-ugly. B Reminds me of a couple-year-old Ford Focus. B e.g. the 'hot hatch' teenager market.

But what you say is true. B I'm old and although an exotic car guy, the new Corvette and even the latest offerings from Maranello look to me like plastic kit-cars. B Full scale Hot Wheels.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: Don <don at napanet.net> 
Date: 04/12/2013  4:20 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it 
 
Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to 
appreciate it.B  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of 
his/her youth.B  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about 
1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.

It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages 
and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.B  I have a fellow 
from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.B  He is the 
same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.B  He thinks 
my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.B  I 
wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when 
he was a kid and young adult.

----------------------------------------

Don Scott,B  Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars





At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
>That is a sinister-looking design.
>
>David
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
>Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
>To: mgs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>
>http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>
>Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>
>Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>So they may keep it.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Hans Duinhoven
>
>Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com

From lister at bonackers.com  Fri Apr 12 16:05:04 2013
From: lister at bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:05:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <mailman.769.1365801718.2062.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
	<FE06DC3013144A3CBC4BC8A0F7D4DA9C@YOURF3E40984A8>
	<mailman.769.1365801718.2062.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <026b01ce37c9$c9a65b40$5cf311c0$@bonackers.com>

Seeking a 1963-67 MGB? What condition?

Scott Bonacker 
Rogersville, MO

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 4:20 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it

Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to appreciate it.  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
his/her youth.  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.

It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.  I have a
fellow from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.  He is the same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years
ago.  He thinks my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.  I wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs
or similar cars when he was a kid and young adult.

----------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars





At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
>That is a sinister-looking design.
>
>David
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
>Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
>To: mgs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>
>http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>
>Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>
>Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>So they may keep it.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Hans Duinhoven
>
>Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Apr 12 15:46:06 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 14:46:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <mailman.769.1365801718.2062.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CD8DCEAE.452DB%mvheim@sonic.net>

Never mind the styling -- what proves they "don't get it" is the fact that
it is an SUV. MG never made trucks.

Yes, Porsche makes an SUV, but that is also an abomination.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/12/13 2:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote:

> Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
> appreciate it.  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
> his/her youth.  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
> 1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
> 
> It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
> and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.  I have a fellow
> from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.  He is the
> same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.  He thinks
> my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.  I
> wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
> he was a kid and young adult.
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
> 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
>> That is a sinister-looking design.
>> 
>> David
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
>> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>> 
>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>> 
>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>> 
>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>> So they may keep it.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Hans Duinhoven
>> 
>> Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Apr 12 16:45:30 2013
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:45:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <hcwapyy1m6p26sppgasc3raq.1365803749193@email.android.com>
References: <hcwapyy1m6p26sppgasc3raq.1365803749193@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <44099D67-0A17-437A-BC6A-4436361154A7@gmail.com>

Here's a press release for it. Dripping with self congratulatory marketing
speak.

I've got to say, I kind of like it. It looks modern. It could probably do
well, up against things like the Kia Soul. The market isn't us old geezers,
it's the 20 somthings, they want different things in a vehicle.

I'm undecided on the Chinese MG. On the one hand, they are MG (legally and
that's all that matters). On the other, the Chinese faciiitated the bankruptcy
of the British MG, and bought up the pieces. Sure they would have gone
bankrupt anyway, but they never had any intention of really partnering.  They
did the same thing to Saab, but GM thankfully killed that deal.

http://mg.co.uk/news/2013/04/12/mg-to-unveil-urban-suv-concept-at-shanghai-sh
ow/

On Apr 12, 2013, at 4:55 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Naaa Don. B That car is butt-ugly. B Reminds me of a couple-year-old Ford
Focus. B e.g. the 'hot hatch' teenager market.
>
> But what you say is true. B I'm old and although an exotic car guy, the new
Corvette and even the latest offerings from Maranello look to me like plastic
kit-cars. B Full scale Hot Wheels.
>
> -rick
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Don <don at napanet.net>
> Date: 04/12/2013  4:20 PM  (GMT-06:00)
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>
> Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
> appreciate it.B  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
> his/her youth.B  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
> 1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
>
> It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
> and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.B  I have a fellow
> from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.B  He is the
> same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.B  He thinks
> my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.B  I
> wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
> he was a kid and young adult.
>
> ----------------------------------------
>
> Don Scott,B  Calistoga CA USA
> 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese
cars
>
>
>
>
>
> At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
>> That is a sinister-looking design.
>>
>> David
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
>> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>>
>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>>
>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>>
>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>> So they may keep it.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Hans Duinhoven
>>
>> Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Apr 12 16:47:34 2013
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:47:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <CD8DCEAE.452DB%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CD8DCEAE.452DB%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <AF2CB239-F14A-4722-A924-2458971C8303@gmail.com>

It is a huge segment of the auto industry. It's what people want. Whether they
should or not. It's hard to make a profit on things that the majority of
people don't want.

Evolve or die.

On Apr 12, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Max Heim wrote:

> Never mind the styling -- what proves they "don't get it" is the fact that
> it is an SUV. MG never made trucks.
>
> Yes, Porsche makes an SUV, but that is also an abomination.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 4/12/13 2:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote:
>
>> Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
>> appreciate it.  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
>> his/her youth.  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
>> 1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
>>
>> It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
>> and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.  I have a fellow
>> from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.  He is the
>> same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.  He thinks
>> my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.  I
>> wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
>> he was a kid and young adult.
>>
>> ----------------------------------------
>>
>> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
>> 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese
cars
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
>>> That is a sinister-looking design.
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>>> Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
>>> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
>>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>>>
>>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>>>
>>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>>>
>>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>>> So they may keep it.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Hans Duinhoven
>>>
>>> Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Apr 12 17:00:01 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:00:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <AF2CB239-F14A-4722-A924-2458971C8303@gmail.com>
References: <CD8DCEAE.452DB%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<AF2CB239-F14A-4722-A924-2458971C8303@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TrGAug22BkCL665YQ+=VNHLXQWuWxnyA-v6p4ztrVAU1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Take a look at the 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe, or Tucson.  Not that far
different from this concept car. Hyundai is selling the Santa Fe and Tucson
like hot cakes.
Hard to argue with success.
Rick


On Fri, Apr 12, 2013 at 3:47 PM, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> It is a huge segment of the auto industry. It's what people want. Whether
> they
> should or not. It's hard to make a profit on things that the majority of
> people don't want.
>
> Evolve or die.
>
> On Apr 12, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>
> > Never mind the styling -- what proves they "don't get it" is the fact
> that
> > it is an SUV. MG never made trucks.
> >
> > Yes, Porsche makes an SUV, but that is also an abomination.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Max Heim
> > '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> > If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> > it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> >
> >
> > on 4/12/13 2:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote:
> >
> >> Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
> >> appreciate it.  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
> >> his/her youth.  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
> >> 1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
> >>
> >> It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
> >> and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.  I have a fellow
> >> from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.  He is the
> >> same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.  He thinks
> >> my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.  I
> >> wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
> >> he was a kid and young adult.
> >>
> >> ----------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
> >> 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese
> cars
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
> >>> That is a sinister-looking design.
> >>>
> >>> David
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> >>> Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
> >>> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
> >>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> >>> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
> >>>
> >>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
> >>>
> >>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
> >>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
> >>>
> >>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
> >>> So they may keep it.
> >>>
> >>> Cheers,
> >>>
> >>> Hans Duinhoven
> >>>
> >>> Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Fri Apr 12 17:15:29 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 18:15:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
Message-ID: <vbsr356bhbs5l73smws2ggju.1365808529750@email.android.com>

Absolutely! B  I don't have to like it for it to sell. :-P B  B ...just not to me.

Then again, my daily is a Porsche Cayman. B I love it and the Top Gear guys consider it an abomination. B Such is style.

I do like your, "Evolve or die." comment. B Reminds me of another: "Any organism that can't get rid if its waste will perish in that waste!" B :-o

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> 
Date: 04/12/2013  6:00 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> 
Cc: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it 
 
Take a look at the 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe, or Tucson.B  Not that far
different from this concept car. Hyundai is selling the Santa Fe and Tucson
like hot cakes.
Hard to argue with success.
Rick


On Fri, Apr 12, 2013 at 3:47 PM, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> It is a huge segment of the auto industry. It's what people want. Whether
> they
> should or not. It's hard to make a profit on things that the majority of
> people don't want.
>
> Evolve or die.
>
> On Apr 12, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>
> > Never mind the styling -- what proves they "don't get it" is the fact
> that
> > it is an SUV. MG never made trucks.
> >
> > Yes, Porsche makes an SUV, but that is also an abomination.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Max Heim
> > '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> > If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> > it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> >
> >
> > on 4/12/13 2:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote:
> >
> >> Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
> >> appreciate it.B  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
> >> his/her youth.B  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
> >> 1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
> >>
> >> It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
> >> and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.B  I have a fellow
> >> from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.B  He is the
> >> same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.B  He thinks
> >> my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.B  I
> >> wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
> >> he was a kid and young adult.
> >>
> >> ----------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Don Scott,B  Calistoga CA USA
> >> 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese
> cars
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
> >>> That is a sinister-looking design.
> >>>
> >>> David
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> >>> Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
> >>> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
> >>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> >>> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
> >>>
> >>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
> >>>
> >>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
> >>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
> >>>
> >>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
> >>> So they may keep it.
> >>>
> >>> Cheers,
> >>>
> >>> Hans Duinhoven
> >>>
> >>> Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 12 17:19:58 2013
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:19:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mini or ?
Message-ID: <000001ce37d4$4252a530$c6f7ef90$@sbcglobal.net>

Guy I work with is "converting" his classic mini into one of these.  Pretty
un-believable auto:  225+ HP, 0-60 < 4 seconds, and same/better road
adhering capabilities.

http://www.zcars.org.uk/mini.php

 

Ron King

'71 MGB

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Apr 12 17:31:34 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:31:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <AF2CB239-F14A-4722-A924-2458971C8303@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CD8DE766.452ED%mvheim@sonic.net>

Not disagreeing, but... If you have a brand that is famous for sports cars,
but only among baby boomers, what is the point of using it to sell SUVs to
GenXers or millennials?

Potential customers (for the most part) have never heard of MG, so there's
no "rub off" value there. People who remember MG probably have zero interest
in Chinese SUVs (hence all the scoffing on this list).

Yes, if they want to sell cars to a mass market, they need to make
contemporary-looking cars in a popular market segment, agreed. But it makes
no sense at all to drag the MG name into it. They might as well pick two
random letters out of a hat..."ND" or "PB". Or if they want to sound Olde
English, pull out another extinct brand, like Wolsely or Lanchester, that at
least was known for family cars. Is "Austin" available? How about
"Standard"? Heck, might as well go for "Morris".




on 4/12/13 3:47 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> It is a huge segment of the auto industry. It's what people want. Whether they
> should or not. It's hard to make a profit on things that the majority of
> people don't want.
> 
> Evolve or die.
> 
> On Apr 12, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> 
>> Never mind the styling -- what proves they "don't get it" is the fact that
>> it is an SUV. MG never made trucks.
>> 
>> Yes, Porsche makes an SUV, but that is also an abomination.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> on 4/12/13 2:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote:
>> 
>>> Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
>>> appreciate it.  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
>>> his/her youth.  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
>>> 1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
>>> 
>>> It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
>>> and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.  I have a fellow
>>> from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.  He is the
>>> same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.  He thinks
>>> my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.  I
>>> wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
>>> he was a kid and young adult.
>>> 
>>> ----------------------------------------
>>> 
>>> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
>>> 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese
>>> cars
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
>>>> That is a sinister-looking design.
>>>> 
>>>> David
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>>>> Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
>>>> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
>>>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>>>> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>>>> 
>>>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>>>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>>>> 
>>>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>>>> So they may keep it.
>>>> 
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> 
>>>> Hans Duinhoven
>>>> 
>>>> Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com
> 
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Apr 13 06:52:54 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 13:52:54 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
References: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <DC0D8C774ED44EC899402E6F1669086C@paul>

The SUV is similar to any number of other manufacturers offerings in that 
segment they didn't fill before, and very similar to the Range Rover Evoque 
which while revolting is in great demand.  The 'GT' looks like a squashed 
MINI, the other two conventional saloons, and so like, again, any number of 
other manufacturers.  They aren't targeting us classic MG owners, we are a 
small and reducing number, although they may do a Midget in time.  Whilst 
'MG' probably doesn't mean a lot to people born in the last 30 years why 
shouldn't they (the company) market designs that will appeal to them (the 
public) like all the others, using an 'English' name they own?  Pity they 
don't do the XPower SV though.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>
> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>
> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>
>
>
> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.

From barrie at look.ca  Sat Apr 13 08:30:28 2013
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 10:30:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <CD8DE766.452ED%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <AF2CB239-F14A-4722-A924-2458971C8303@gmail.com>
	<CD8DE766.452ED%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <E1UR1UI-0006wz-PN@zeta.look.ca>

I hear Boeing's next super big passenger jet will be called the Spitfire.


At 04:31 PM 4/12/2013 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>Not disagreeing, but... If you have a brand that is famous for sports cars,
>but only among baby boomers, what is the point of using it to sell SUVs to
>GenXers or millennials?
>
>Potential customers (for the most part) have never heard of MG, so there's
>no "rub off" value there. People who remember MG probably have zero interest
>in Chinese SUVs (hence all the scoffing on this list).
>
>Yes, if they want to sell cars to a mass market, they need to make
>contemporary-looking cars in a popular market segment, agreed. But it makes
>no sense at all to drag the MG name into it. They might as well pick two
>random letters out of a hat..."ND" or "PB". Or if they want to sound Olde
>English, pull out another extinct brand, like Wolsely or Lanchester, that at
>least was known for family cars. Is "Austin" available? How about
>"Standard"? Heck, might as well go for "Morris".
>
>
>
>
>on 4/12/13 3:47 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:
>
> > It is a huge segment of the auto industry. It's what people want. 
> Whether they
> > should or not. It's hard to make a profit on things that the majority of
> > people don't want.
> >
> > Evolve or die.
> >
> > On Apr 12, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> >
> >> Never mind the styling -- what proves they "don't get it" is the fact that
> >> it is an SUV. MG never made trucks.
> >>
> >> Yes, Porsche makes an SUV, but that is also an abomination.
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> Max Heim
> >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> >> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> >>
> >>
> >> on 4/12/13 2:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote:
> >>
> >>> Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
> >>> appreciate it.  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
> >>> his/her youth.  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
> >>> 1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
> >>>
> >>> It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
> >>> and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.  I have a fellow
> >>> from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.  He is the
> >>> same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.  He thinks
> >>> my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.  I
> >>> wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
> >>> he was a kid and young adult.
> >>>
> >>> ----------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
> >>> 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese
> >>> cars
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
> >>>> That is a sinister-looking design.
> >>>>
> >>>> David
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> >>>> Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
> >>>> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
> >>>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> >>>> Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
> >>>>
> >>>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
> >>>>
> >>>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
> >>>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
> >>>>
> >>>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
> >>>> So they may keep it.
> >>>>
> >>>> Cheers,
> >>>>
> >>>> Hans Duinhoven
> >>>>
> >>>> Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >> Mgs at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Apr 13 08:39:57 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 15:39:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil filters and flow direction
Message-ID: <3BF221E3105B4A8C801BDCF3BD69F867@paul>

After 23 years of changing oil filters on this engine, three or four times in
the last few years there has been a problem in that the filter doesn't seem to
have sealed properly, and chucked out about a cup-full of oil at first start.
Oiled the new seal as usual, and the filter head was oily anyway.  This time
it didn't seal at all.  Started up twice and it gushed out.  Removed the
filter, everything looked OK.  Refitted tighter, tried again, gushed out
again.  Tried a new filter and this time it didn't leak, but oil pressure
didn't rise as it should.  Checked the dipstick and it was off the bottom,
having been up to Max before, i.e. chucked out a couple of litres or more
previously.  Refilled and this time it was OK.  These are Mann filters, with a
bypass valve as well as an anti-drainback valve.

What's the direction?  I thought it came from the pump out of the back of the
block past the oil gauge tapping, through the cooler, into the filter head
(inverted replaceable cartridge type in my case), up the outside of the
filter, then down through the middle and into the block for the bearings.
This is what Haynes and the Workshop Manual appear to show.

The curious thing is that immediately before oil started gushing out there was
a sort of squeal from the direction of the filter, as if there was high
pressure somewhere, but almost nothing was shown on the gauge.  If there was
something wrong with the filter such that it wasn't passing oil i.e. both the
filter was blocked and the bypass failed, surely that should have shown on the
gauge if that's between the pump and the filter?  And if the filter was
flowing oil (the middle had plenty in as normal when I took the first
replacement off, and the anti-drainback tube on the filter head) why was so
much pressure apparently developing to blow the seal?

PaulH.

From wkilleffer at epbfi.com  Sat Apr 13 09:23:07 2013
From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (William Killeffer)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:23:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
Message-ID: <24DA58A8-E289-4E83-803B-F3E261DDD347@epbfi.com>

It's not something that I would buy, but I'm not an SUV fan. Someone mentioned
Hyundai and Kia having similar designs, and they do, and they're very popular.
Nothing wrong with catering to the public's taste sometimes. I would rather
see something like this with the Octagon logo on it keeping that alive, even
if it's not the same as it used to be.

I wish they had an MG-F variant in their lineup, and that it would be
available for sale in the US. Maybe if this SUV comes to fruition and is
profitable for them, they will have a good product offering and a dealer
network over here. Nothing wrong with a Miata, but good competition is even
better.

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Sat Apr 13 09:24:13 2013
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:24:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  MGB oil filters and flow direction
Message-ID: <59E5740671314AE7AEFC5D672DD11B64@frankdcczr6l6k>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <frankk12 at verizon.net>
To: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB oil filters and flow direction


> Paul: I recently lost an entire crankcase of oil similar to what you 
> describe. Then I proceeded to lose another 5 quarts when I discovered that 
> the O ring from the  old filter had ahdered itself to the filter housing 
> and when I screwed the new filter on I had two O rings where there should 
> only have been one thus crating the oil leak. It was a costly lesson but 
> one I will never repeat. Check to make certain the old filter O ring  came 
> off with the old filter.
> Frank Krajewski
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>; <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 10:39 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil filters and flow direction
>
>
>> After 23 years of changing oil filters on this engine, three or four 
>> times in
>> the last few years there has been a problem in that the filter doesn't 
>> seem to
>> have sealed properly, and chucked out about a cup-full of oil at first 
>> start.
>> Oiled the new seal as usual, and the filter head was oily anyway.  This 
>> time
>> it didn't seal at all.  Started up twice and it gushed out.  Removed the
>> filter, everything looked OK.  Refitted tighter, tried again, gushed out
>> again.  Tried a new filter and this time it didn't leak, but oil pressure
>> didn't rise as it should.  Checked the dipstick and it was off the 
>> bottom,
>> having been up to Max before, i.e. chucked out a couple of litres or more
>> previously.  Refilled and this time it was OK.  These are Mann filters, 
>> with a
>> bypass valve as well as an anti-drainback valve.
>>
>> What's the direction?  I thought it came from the pump out of the back of 
>> the
>> block past the oil gauge tapping, through the cooler, into the filter 
>> head
>> (inverted replaceable cartridge type in my case), up the outside of the
>> filter, then down through the middle and into the block for the bearings.
>> This is what Haynes and the Workshop Manual appear to show.
>>
>> The curious thing is that immediately before oil started gushing out 
>> there was
>> a sort of squeal from the direction of the filter, as if there was high
>> pressure somewhere, but almost nothing was shown on the gauge.  If there 
>> was
>> something wrong with the filter such that it wasn't passing oil i.e. both 
>> the
>> filter was blocked and the bypass failed, surely that should have shown 
>> on the
>> gauge if that's between the pump and the filter?  And if the filter was
>> flowing oil (the middle had plenty in as normal when I took the first
>> replacement off, and the anti-drainback tube on the filter head) why was 
>> so
>> much pressure apparently developing to blow the seal?
>>
>> PaulH.
>> _______________________________________________

From palte at gmx.net  Sat Apr 13 11:44:05 2013
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 19:44:05 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Oil filter and flow direction
Message-ID: <20130413174405.193E8524E9@smtp05.online.nl>

At the risk of making a stupid remark:

Do you use the correct filter?
E.g. anti-drainback in the wrong direction and later blown to pieces 
as the pressure builds up?

I use Mann W 916/1 (bought a small stock, once) without problems for 
both my 1970 MGB
and my 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre.


Bert

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Apr 13 18:06:54 2013
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 19:06:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB oil filters and flow direction
In-Reply-To: <3BF221E3105B4A8C801BDCF3BD69F867@paul>
References: <3BF221E3105B4A8C801BDCF3BD69F867@paul>
Message-ID: <201304140005.r3E05Kd6014502@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

Paul, -- You have the flow path right, but the gauge pressure tap is 
wrong.  The gauge port is not directly connected to the large 
outletport at the RR corner of the block.  The outlet fitting at this 
point has an extended tube inside the block that isolates the outlet 
port from the gauge port.  The gauge port is at the back end of the 
main oil gallery in the block, downstreanm from the filter.  The 
gauge will register oil pressure as presented to the crankshaft main 
bearings.  If the oil filter is clogged or leaking badly, it is 
possible to have god oil pressure before the filter, and poor 
pressure shoeing on the gauge (insufficient oil to the crankshaft).

See notes and picture 3/4 down the page here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of101.htm

A few pages to follow have more information on oil flow path, oil 
gallery drillings, port plugs, and either excess or deficient oil 
pressure issues.

It sounds like you have run across some faulty oil filters blocking 
the flow.  Since the pressure relief valve comes before the filter, I 
have no idea why they leak.  Could be a bad filter base seal ,or 
perhaps a faulty female thread teh prevents the filter from screwing 
on all the way.  I recently ran across an incomplete thread like that 
in a NAPA Gold (WIX) oil filter (just one in a lifetime).

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 03:39 PM 4/13/2013 +0100, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>.... three or four times in the last few years there has been a 
>problem in that the filter doesn't seem to have sealed properly, and 
>chucked out about a cup-full of oil at first start. .... This time 
>it didn't seal at all.  .... These are Mann filters, with a bypass 
>valve as well as an anti-drainback valve.
>
>What's the direction?  I thought it came from the pump out of the 
>back of the block past the oil gauge tapping, through the cooler, 
>into the filter head .... up the outside of the filter, then down 
>through the middle and into the block for the bearings.
>....
>
>.... immediately before oil started gushing out there was a sort of 
>squeal from the direction of the filter, as if there was high 
>pressure somewhere, but almost nothing was shown on the gauge.  If 
>there was something wrong with the filter such that it wasn't 
>passing oil i.e. both the filter was blocked and the bypass failed, 
>surely that should have shown on the gauge if that's between the 
>pump and the filter?  ....
>....

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 13 23:14:23 2013
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike E)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 01:14:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <DC0D8C774ED44EC899402E6F1669086C@paul>
References: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
	<DC0D8C774ED44EC899402E6F1669086C@paul>
Message-ID: <BLU405-EAS968742A71207E3B2517D43B7C30@phx.gbl>

MG may not mean much to people born in the U.S. in the last 30 years, anyway.
But SAIC doesn't seem to be too interested in the US market anymore.

Mike Eldred

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 13, 2013, at 9:09, "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:

> The SUV is similar to any number of other manufacturers offerings in that
segment they didn't fill before, and very similar to the Range Rover Evoque
which while revolting is in great demand.  The 'GT' looks like a squashed
MINI, the other two conventional saloons, and so like, again, any number of
other manufacturers.  They aren't targeting us classic MG owners, we are a
small and reducing number, although they may do a Midget in time.  Whilst 'MG'
probably doesn't mean a lot to people born in the last 30 years why shouldn't
they (the company) market designs that will appeal to them (the public) like
all the others, using an 'English' name they own?  Pity they don't do the
XPower SV though.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>>
>> Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>>
>> Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>>
>>
>>
>> Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Apr 12 16:21:24 2013
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 18:21:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
References: <003a01ce37b5$061104f0$12330ed0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <E1URO11-00078G-Rn@eta.look.ca>

Hans,

WHAT AN ABORTION !



At 09:36 PM 12/04/2013 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
>
>Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
>
>Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
>
>
>
>Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
>
>So they may keep it.
>
>
>
>
>
>Cheers,
>
>
>
>Hans Duinhoven
>
>
>
>Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Apr 12 20:28:33 2013
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 22:28:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
In-Reply-To: <hcwapyy1m6p26sppgasc3raq.1365803749193@email.android.com>
References: <hcwapyy1m6p26sppgasc3raq.1365803749193@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <E1URO12-00078G-0w@eta.look.ca>

The defining factor is education and life experience.  The less you 
have of either the less you have of good taste!



At 04:55 PM 12/04/2013 -0500, Rick Lindsay wrote:
>Naaa Don. B That car is butt-ugly. B Reminds me of a couple-year-old 
>Ford Focus. B e.g. the 'hot hatch' teenager market.
>
>But what you say is true. B I'm old and although an exotic car guy, 
>the new Corvette and even the latest offerings from Maranello look 
>to me like plastic kit-cars. B Full scale Hot Wheels.
>
>-rick
>Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded 
>corners, just like a BlackBerry.
>
>-------- Original message --------
>From: Don <don at napanet.net>
>Date: 04/12/2013  4:20 PM  (GMT-06:00)
>To: mgs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
>
>Maybe it's beautiful and we are too old or of the wrong culture to
>appreciate it.B  Just like music; one tends to favor the things of
>his/her youth.B  I love '50s rock 'n roll, but rock music from about
>1980 on sounds like the Chinese MG looks- awful.
>
>It would be interesting to get feedback from people of different ages
>and cultures as to how they view the Chinese MG.B  I have a fellow
>from Honduras who assists me on taking care of my place.B  He is the
>same age as me, 63, who came to the US about 15 years ago.B  He thinks
>my MGs are ugly, and likes the looks of new Toyotas and Hondas.B  I
>wonder if that may be because he didn't see MGs or similar cars when
>he was a kid and young adult.
>
>----------------------------------------
>
>Don Scott,B  Calistoga CA USA
>1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars
>
>
>
>
>
>At 5 PM 4/12/2013, David F. Darby wrote:
> >That is a sinister-looking design.
> >
> >David
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> >Behalf Of Hans Duinhoven
> >Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 2:36 PM
> >To: mgs at autox.team.net
> >Subject: [Mgs] The Chinese guys don't get it
> >
> >http://www.autoweek.nl/nieuws/23011/mg-met-suv-concept-maar-shanghai
> >
> >Some new info what the Chinese guys are planning with MG.
> >Sorry for the Dutch text - the pics will tell enough.
> >
> >Nothing to find back of the original MG spirit.
> >So they may keep it.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Hans Duinhoven
> >
> >Still happy with the spirit of my '71 BGT
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Sun Apr 14 11:47:51 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 12:47:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] distributor gear pin
Message-ID: <56F71ED7-8FA4-400A-A6EE-74552DE2B3A4@duvallvideo.com>

On an early Lucas distributor, can I use a spring pin instead of a dowel pin
to hold the gear on?

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 19 14:37:29 2013
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 13:37:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Member disabled
Message-ID: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>

Got an email indicating my membership was disabled due to many email
bounces.  Anyone else get such an email?

 

Thanks

Ron King

'71 MGB

From lister at bonackers.com  Fri Apr 19 15:11:02 2013
From: lister at bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 16:11:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Member disabled
In-Reply-To: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00ff01ce3d42$65ef98e0$31cecaa0$@bonackers.com>

That has happened to me in the past.

The internet email delivery system is dynamic - admins make changes to try and control spam and other evildoers, blocklists expand
and contract.

Email providers sometimes have to make changes in the configuration of the messages sent out to comply with a murky set of rules.

Scott Bonacker
Rogersville, MO


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron King
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 3:37 PM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Member disabled

Got an email indicating my membership was disabled due to many email bounces.  Anyone else get such an email?

 Thanks

Ron King
'71 MGB

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 19 15:15:56 2013
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 16:15:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Member disabled
In-Reply-To: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <5171B40C.3080009@sbcglobal.net>

Same here.  Everything else is working fine.

Charles Hill

On 4/19/2013 3:37 PM, Ron King wrote:
> Got an email indicating my membership was disabled due to many email
> bounces.  Anyone else get such an email?
>
>   
>
> Thanks
>
> Ron King
>
> '71 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/chillmog at sbcglobal.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Apr 19 15:38:05 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 15:38:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Member disabled
In-Reply-To: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <5171B93D.20007@bradakis.com>

Ron King wrote:
> Got an email indicating my membership was disabled due to many email
> bounces.  Anyone else get such an email?
>
>
Yahoo is unwilling or unable to hire any tech support staff with more 
than three working
brain cells.  sbcglobal is routed through yahoo.com.  Any and all 
Team.Net subscribers
with yahoo addresses are getting the short end of the stick.

Maybe someday I'll actually get some useful information out of those 
scumbags.

mjb.

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 19 15:50:09 2013
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 16:50:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Member disabled
In-Reply-To: <5171B93D.20007@bradakis.com>
References: <000001ce3d3d$b778cdd0$266a6970$@sbcglobal.net>
	<5171B93D.20007@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5171BC11.9050701@sbcglobal.net>

Mark,
You actually got through to someone?  That is more than I have ever been 
able to accomplish.  It doesn't help to complain to SBC Global.

Charles Hill

On 4/19/2013 4:38 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Ron King wrote:
>> Got an email indicating my membership was disabled due to many email
>> bounces.  Anyone else get such an email?
>>
>>
> Yahoo is unwilling or unable to hire any tech support staff with more 
> than three working
> brain cells.  sbcglobal is routed through yahoo.com.  Any and all 
> Team.Net subscribers
> with yahoo addresses are getting the short end of the stick.
>
> Maybe someday I'll actually get some useful information out of those 
> scumbags.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/chillmog at sbcglobal.net

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sat Apr 20 10:01:14 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 11:01:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Thank you again. Even better than expected!
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwQH33ki-rGYK7yBFf1B4D6_XBRN13boO6SFx1SYYOCjQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

This note is intended to share a technique and to thank Mr. Bud K.,
who once again had the right answer!

Earlier I posted a picture (or twelve) of the tach and speedo
cleanups.  If interested, you might remember that I painted the inner
trim rings brown, resulting in this appearance.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1066.JPG

While some might argue that the look is 'attractive' or perhaps just
'acceptable', Mr. K wrote, "...it just won't look right." and that
prompted me to take his sage advice and rework the gauges.

Bud recommended a Valspar paint from Lowe's but the only option they
offered me was a QUART of flat latex in the color recommended.
Nothing in spray can format.  Instead, I took a color sample card to
my neighborhood Ace Hardware (  a.k.a. my generic autoparts store. :-P
 ) and had a half-pint 'sample' mixed in a nearly-perfect match to the
Lowe's color.  The little can of paint was mixed in egg-shell so its a
soft semi-gloss.  With this paint, I applied the base-coat to the trim
rings.

After a night of drying I took the rings out into the driveway and
gave them a very light dusting of aluminum spray paint over the
teal-green - just to add that metallic luster found on the gauge
faces.  When sprayed from about half a meter away, in short bursts,
here's how the rings looked.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_100130.jpg

And here's how the trim rings look re-installed in the gauges.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_100506.jpg

Bud was right - again.  I think they look just fantastic.  His color
and the light dusting of aluminum made for an excellent match.
Thanks everyone!

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sat Apr 20 13:08:35 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 14:08:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Still taking things apart
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dy0c03hGLELZijVfRhFDfnRSzwiN8-W3oTOeXCwTfT7Vw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Fun in the garage today - although I'm getting a little tired of
taking rusty things apart.  Soon I hope to begin rebuilding.
Fortunately, the engine and driveline will be fun - and they're not
rusty - at least not inside! :-P

Today I took the bumper and rear valance off, as I continue
disassembly.  The goal is still working toward lifting the tub away.
Here's how it looks now.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_123023.jpg

And now, a few close-ups to aid in reassembly.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_123034.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_123038.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_123044.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_123050.jpg

Once cleaned, all of these parts will get a coat of POR15 before
painting and reassembly.

Once I got this far I needed to stand up and stretch my old back.
While doing so, I began removing the mahogany wood around the rear of
the tub.  This car has had the top replaced a number of times and the
wood is quite chewed up.  Moss stocks these parts and I will replace
the chewed-up bits with new.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_125054.jpg

And this is where I stopped.

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sat Apr 20 15:30:38 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 16:30:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Experiments with metal, etc.
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxiu6CZNLHdSUVka-agr5aNO=bXrkDvE+Ag04=tPFVDMQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

This afternoon I took a look at the wood and metal on the right-rear
side of the tub.  This pictures shows the good and the bad of the body
tub.  Fortunately, the bad is easily repaired.  The good is, well,
...good.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_154459.jpg

The view above, inside the rear quarter, shows the wood to be in great
condition except for the zillions of nail and screw holes.  Some PO
years ago, installed this interior without removing the tacks from the
previous installation - which may or may not have been the original.
That means that after pulling all those tacks, the wood is left full
of holes!  The screw holes are wallowed out or have split the wood.
Fortunately, it has no wood rot!  Therefore, the solution will be to
glue and clamp the splits and glue wooden toothpicks in all the holes
- including the screw holes.  Then, at installation time, a proper
wood screw drill bit will be used to drill new correct-size holes.

Please notice that the inner wheel-well has surface rust but the metal
is beautifully sound!  I'll clean it with MetalReady then coat it with
POR15.

Because the body metal here has bits of surface rust where the paint
has chipped off, I experimented with stripping a little of the paint
and sanding the metal.  Here's how it looks.  I've only done the upper
edge.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_154442.jpg

Here's another look where you can see the leaded corner, carefully
stripped of paint,

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_154447.jpg

And by this time, I was really tired so I put a light coat of red
primer on the bare metal and called it a day.  Sorry for the poor
focus.  In this picture the primer was not yet dry.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_155057.jpg

One last comment:  The screws securing the wood panel over the
differential, are terribly rusted and will almost certainly have to be
drilled out.  With a little luck, I'll be able to re-tap the threaded
metal and use new screws.  If not, I'll find some other cool way of
attaching the panel.  That's it.  Good evening.

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun Apr 21 17:38:36 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 18:38:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Repairing the wood
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxjtah6LBy0VHasHP+r4pjer6bEepmoL3fgoxN_Md5Jkw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

I found a few minutes this evening so I started the hole-filling process.

If you read my earlier post, you may remember that some PO (before
Bill) installed a new interior, perhaps two in the 60 years since it
left England.  In those cases the POs did not pull the tacks from
earlier work but rather, they just drove tacks between them.  I pulled
them all.

This evening I began driving glue and toothpicks into the tack holes.
In many cases, two toothpicks were required to infill the hole!  I did
not get too far along in the process because bending over the tub
makes my old back ache.  I also did not repair the screw holes or glue
the small splits at a couple of screw holes.  But I will.

Here are a couple of pictures of the repairs, just started.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130421_175804.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130421_175825.jpg

You might notice in that last picture that the wood is pretty chewed
up down at the end, not far from the door opening.  I'll infill that
area with plastic wood, or Bondo, or glue and sawdust, or something.
Anyway, the goal will be to rebuild the corner, just to support the
metal.

Tomorrow, with the glue cured, I'll clip the toothpicks off with wire
cutters and sand the repairs smooth.  I'll then move along the tub
continuing the repairs.

-rick

From lundgren at byu.net  Mon Apr 22 11:45:36 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:45:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon,
 what should I be  wary of?
Message-ID: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>

I have had my B for nearly twenty years now, but haven't ever looked at 
a midget before.

A '77 Midget showed up for sale near me recently and I am going to go 
see it.

I know where the B rusts and what the crack of doom is all about... What 
about the midget? Where does it rust? What problems should I be aware of 
that should make me walk away?

Thanks!

--
Andrew

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Apr 22 11:50:46 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:50:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Been stripping (paint
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dwoX=5DJbR_VvoihoDy96nGAcPiK_nety_LhhkHVGFQzQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

I spent some time this morning stripping paint and assessing rust
damage.  And of course, I took a few pictures.  To start, here's the
passenger rear quarter with the running board off and the rear wing
partially removed (read: loose).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1192.JPG

In that picture I have done nothing other than strip the paint and
wipe the metal clean.  No sanding, no grinding.  That will come later.

Here's a look at the worst damage on the entire car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1193.JPG

The metal is rusted away and 'some' of the wood is decayed.  However,
this timber is about 2" thick so the 1/8" of wood that's
surface-eroded, is not (in my opinion) a real issue.  When poked with
a screwdriver, the wood is sound everywhere.  I'll vacuum this whole
area out, seal the timber with a wood preservative then replace the
metal.

Here's another look at the door opening.  I would have removed the
rear wing BUT, the damned previously-captive nut has broken out of its
cage.  Its also NOT available to be held, being deep down between
welded panels. :-(   Gurrrr.  I hate rusted bolts.  And in this case,
I'm going to have to cut this rusted bugger off!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1194.JPG

Here's another look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1195.JPG

The running board came off pretty easily, for rusted bolts.  It is
beautifully undamaged and will be easily refinished.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1196.JPG

Before realizing that the front once-captive nut broke free from its
'captivity', I removed the tail light and left the wing hanging on one
top bolt (and the stuck one).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1197.JPG

After getting cleaned up, I clipped the toothpick-wood-repairs off but
haven't yet sanded the surface.  I'll wait until I've repaired the
remaining tack holes, the screw holes and any gouged wood, before
refinishing that inner surface with wood sealer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1199.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1200.JPG

And finally, I can't believe I've gone this long - over 45 years -
restoring cars without owning a set of these wheel dollys!!!  They're
genius!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1198.JPG

Best regards from a dirty garage in Houston,

-rick

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 22 12:16:44 2013
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike E)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon,
 what  should I be  wary of?
In-Reply-To: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>
References: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>
Message-ID: <BLU177-W27959B3F2CE982ED05BC4CB7CB0@phx.gbl>

Andrew,
It's mostly the same stuff, same places.  Rust in the dogleg, rust at the
bottom of the front fender, floors, trunk.  Check under the carpet for signs
of water/rust.  Beware of doors that don't fit right.  The bonnets have a
tendency to fly up as the rubber/plastic buffers get worn, so look for sign of
that having happened in the past, and make sure it's all nice and firm-feeling
now (doesn't wobble from side to side when closed, no excessive up and down
play when it's closed and you push down on it).

I'm not all that familiar with the 1500 engine, so maybe someone else will
fill us in on their quirks.

Good luck!
-Mike Eldred
77 MGB
73 Midget
54 TF

> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:45:36 -0600
> From: lundgren at byu.net
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon, what should I be
wary of?
>
> I have had my B for nearly twenty years now, but haven't ever looked at
> a midget before.
>
> A '77 Midget showed up for sale near me recently and I am going to go
> see it.
>
> I know where the B rusts and what the crack of doom is all about... What
> about the midget? Where does it rust? What problems should I be aware of
> that should make me walk away?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Apr 22 12:25:52 2013
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:25:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon,
 what  should I be wary of?
In-Reply-To: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>
Message-ID: <CD9ACEC0.4570C%mvheim@sonic.net>

A '77 would not be my first choice. A few years ago I had a '78 offered to
me for free -- I posted it and asked around -- no takers. Condition may have
been a factor. But fugly bumpers and anemic output are right up there.

First thing to check is if you can fit in the cockpit and work the pedals.

Wiith my long legs, I can sit there with my knees splayed out, but I have to
work the pedals with the side of my shoe, which is pretty tiresome.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/22/13 10:45 AM, Andrew Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote:

> I have had my B for nearly twenty years now, but haven't ever looked at
> a midget before.
> 
> A '77 Midget showed up for sale near me recently and I am going to go
> see it.
> 
> I know where the B rusts and what the crack of doom is all about... What
> about the midget? Where does it rust? What problems should I be aware of
> that should make me walk away?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --
> Andrew

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Apr 22 12:38:44 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:38:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon,
 what  should I be  wary of?
In-Reply-To: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>
References: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>
Message-ID: <517583B4.60701@bradakis.com>

One problem with the 1500 motor is the crank thrust washers.  Once they wear
too much they tend to fall out into the oil pan.  The best check is to 
have someone
push in the clutch pedal a few times with the motor running while you 
closely watch
the front pulley.  If pushing the clutch in moves the pulley forward, 
you may need
an engine rebuild.

mjb.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Apr 22 12:55:07 2013
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:55:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon,
 what   should I be  wary of?
In-Reply-To: <517583B4.60701@bradakis.com>
References: <51757740.8060005@byu.net> <517583B4.60701@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <6DB1CA59-6ACB-4044-9835-9A7897D09176@gmail.com>

If the thrust fall out you might well need a new block.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 22, 2013, at 11:38, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> One problem with the 1500 motor is the crank thrust washers.  Once they
wear
> too much they tend to fall out into the oil pan.  The best check is to have
someone
> push in the clutch pedal a few times with the motor running while you
closely watch
> the front pulley.  If pushing the clutch in moves the pulley forward, you
may need
> an engine rebuild.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From adrianjones747 at centurylink.net  Mon Apr 22 13:20:21 2013
From: adrianjones747 at centurylink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 15:20:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon, what should
Message-ID: <001801ce3f8e$731e8910$595b9b30$@net>

Apart from usual stuff (sills rusted), there maybe:

 

Cracked exhaust manifold

Rod knock (bad big-end bearings)

Bad motor mounts

 

None of the above I would consider a deal breaker but something to watch out
for on RB Midgets.

 

Good luck - I love my Midget (after fixing it up)

From lundgren at byu.net  Mon Apr 22 14:30:14 2013
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:30:14 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Going to look at buying an MG Midget soon,
 what should I be  wary of?
In-Reply-To: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>
References: <51757740.8060005@byu.net>
Message-ID: <51759DD6.1000805@byu.net>

Someone seems to have beaten me to it. That one went quick...

On 04/22/2013 11:45 AM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
> I have had my B for nearly twenty years now, but haven't ever looked 
> at a midget before.
>
> A '77 Midget showed up for sale near me recently and I am going to go 
> see it.
>
> I know where the B rusts and what the crack of doom is all about... 
> What about the midget? Where does it rust? What problems should I be 
> aware of that should make me walk away?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -- 
> Andrew

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue Apr 23 22:40:10 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 23:40:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] won't start
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHpy5N2MdMDxaMV0bVDWNHSeuetXkDMSVdS30Q=_Jbj3Uw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm getting ready to do diagnostics to see why my 79B (with HIF's and a
dizzy) won't start.  Last November, after sitting for 7 months, it started
and I drove it 8 miles to town. I had trouble restarting it twice while in
town, although it did start after cranking for probably 30 seconds. It ran
fine on the highway back home, but wouldn't start again once I shut it
off.  How can I check to see if it is bad gas? The gas in the tank is about
a year old. Can I squirt ether into the carbs without any harm?
Thanks,
Monte

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Apr 24 08:11:30 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 15:11:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] won't start
References: <CAHEsxHpy5N2MdMDxaMV0bVDWNHSeuetXkDMSVdS30Q=_Jbj3Uw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5B7A6F806E0D42D980E350C2EE3AD749@paul>

If it started OK after sitting 7 months, runs fine, but won't start after a 
short switch-off, I don't really see it being fuel, although a year in the 
tank is a long time especially considering what I hear about American fuels.

Ether is likely to mask all sorts of problems - fuel and ignition.  It may 
well make it start more easily, but it's just covering up a fault (or 
faults) that should be diagnosed and fixed properly.

Running the float chambers dry (disconnect the pump and run the engine till 
it conks out) then hook up a temporary container with fresh fuel to gravity 
feed the carbs (single feed to both carbs as normal with HIFs I presume) 
will eliminate the fuel.

But I'd also be checking the spark and seeing if the plugs are wet or smell 
strongly of fuel after cranking for a while with no start.  manual choke I 
presume, are you using that when trying to restart?

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> .. How can I check to see if it is bad gas? 

From montejane at gmail.com  Wed Apr 24 09:28:56 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 10:28:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] won't start
In-Reply-To: <5B7A6F806E0D42D980E350C2EE3AD749@paul>
References: <CAHEsxHpy5N2MdMDxaMV0bVDWNHSeuetXkDMSVdS30Q=_Jbj3Uw@mail.gmail.com>
	<5B7A6F806E0D42D980E350C2EE3AD749@paul>
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHqG+7iQFuGyJSx7L-OOeriXSOxCLpYKUtiKWKFL+XU4Yg@mail.gmail.com>

OK, no ether:). The car won't start now, so running the carbs dry is a no
go. I'll check the plugs after cranking. It has a manual choke that I
always use, winter and summer (briefly), when starting cold.


On Wed, Apr 24, 2013 at 9:11 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>wrote:

> If it started OK after sitting 7 months, runs fine, but won't start after
> a short switch-off, I don't really see it being fuel, although a year in
> the tank is a long time especially considering what I hear about American
> fuels.
>
> Ether is likely to mask all sorts of problems - fuel and ignition.  It may
> well make it start more easily, but it's just covering up a fault (or
> faults) that should be diagnosed and fixed properly.
>
> Running the float chambers dry (disconnect the pump and run the engine
> till it conks out) then hook up a temporary container with fresh fuel to
> gravity feed the carbs (single feed to both carbs as normal with HIFs I
> presume) will eliminate the fuel.
>
> But I'd also be checking the spark and seeing if the plugs are wet or
> smell strongly of fuel after cranking for a while with no start.  manual
> choke I presume, are you using that when trying to restart?
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> .. How can I check to see if it is bad gas?

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Wed Apr 24 15:39:05 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:39:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Here's what I found...
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxH2cwxrtCjx3OVBgpo-1azfNrz4HO8E+6ELuiUdmMZ6g@mail.gmail.com>

...under all that rust and ugly turquoise paint: METAL

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Hpim1210e.jpg

The dark areas are where the Restomotive's MetalReady has attacked
rust, yet to be removed, neutralized, and coated with rust sealing
primer.

Here are a couple other pictures showing the leaded ends of the facia metal.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1217.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1216.JPG

I sent an update earlier but I had too many addressees so it bounced,
awaiting admin approval.  Hopefully it will get posted soon.

-rick

PS: Just a look into the garage (before cleanup):
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1222.JPG

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Apr 24 17:01:42 2013
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 23:01:42 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] won't start
Message-ID: <20130424.190142.21253.3@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Monte,
   Check to see that it's consistently getting gas. Disconnect the fuel line
to the carb and pump a quart into a container. It's possible that the pump is
pumping sporadically because a winter's disuse has allowed the pump's points
to oxidize.
   Before doing this, disconnect a wire to the coil.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>
To: MG list <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] won't start
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 23:40:10 -0500

I'm getting ready to do diagnostics to see why my 79B (with HIF's and a
dizzy) won't start.  Last November, after sitting for 7 months, it started
and I drove it 8 miles to town. I had trouble restarting it twice while in
town, although it did start after cranking for probably 30 seconds. It ran
fine on the highway back home, but wouldn't start again once I shut it
off.  How can I check to see if it is bad gas? The gas in the tank is about
a year old. Can I squirt ether into the carbs without any harm?
Thanks,
Monte
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Apr 24 22:04:40 2013
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 23:04:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] won't start
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHpy5N2MdMDxaMV0bVDWNHSeuetXkDMSVdS30Q=_Jbj3Uw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpy5N2MdMDxaMV0bVDWNHSeuetXkDMSVdS30Q=_Jbj3Uw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5178AB58.40908@ktc.com>

Check and see if the points are opening all the way, then pull a piece 
of clean white paper, double folded,  through them to eliminate dirt, 
etc.  Lube the rubbing block while you're in there. Then make sure you 
have a good spark. Remember, most carb problems are in the ignition.

CR

From montejane at gmail.com  Wed Apr 24 22:50:05 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 23:50:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHq5=FyO=26XTAtM0ph5DYj2XpuNPjHgVgzsSforzDws0g@mail.gmail.com>

<I'm getting ready to do diagnostics to see why my 79B (with HIF's and a
dizzy) won't start.  Last November, after sitting for 7 months, it started
and I drove it 8 miles to town. I had trouble restarting it twice while in
town, although it did start after cranking for probably 30 seconds. It ran
fine on the highway back home, but wouldn't start again once I shut it
off.  How can I check to see if it is bad gas? The gas in the tank is about
a year old. Can I squirt ether into the carbs without any harm?
Thanks,
Monte>

Today I did the following from my saved files that others have suggested
over the years:

To test the solenoid contacts, I ran a jumper from a brown wire to the Coil
+terminal: No spark.
I took out #4 plug and grounded it to the block: NO spark.
With the dizzy cap off, I cranked it and did once (only once) see sparks
between the points. Later I pulled the HT lead off the dizzy and grounded
it and cranked: No spark.
I have power on both sides of the second fuse up.
I tested the primary coil circuit by connecting a voltmeter between the +
coil terminal and ground w/ the points closed and ignition on and got
Battery voltage.
I closed the points and tested voltage between the neg coil terminal and
ground and got 0 volts with the ignition on.
I checked the primary winding on the coil and got Battery Voltage by
connecting the - coil terminal and ground w/ ignition on. I also tested
continuity between + and - coil terminals and registered .1 ohms.  The
continuity between coil negative and the HT outlet was 400-600 ohms;
Somewhere I read this should be 8000-11500 ohms???
I substituted a new starter relay to no avail. But the relay DOES NOT CLICK
during or after cranking.
I drew a piece of 600 grit sandpaper between the points.
A small amount of gas is on the plug after cranking.
Today, I found a systematic troubleshooting flowchart on Paul's site that
I'll try tomorrow.
Any suggestions of observations from the above?

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Apr 25 02:38:02 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 09:38:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
References: <CAHEsxHq5=FyO=26XTAtM0ph5DYj2XpuNPjHgVgzsSforzDws0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9FBBF5248DBA417C9EE1DDF62AB1D8BC@paul>

I'm wondering whether you mean the ignition relay doesn't click when you 
turn on the ignition.  The starter relay doesn't click until you turn the 
key to crank, and is drowned out by the solenoid clicking if not the engine 
cranking.  I presume the engine is cranking?  Originally the coil was 
powered from the ignition relay, and if that isn't operating then you would 
have no spark, but you would have no power on the second fuse up neither 
would you have battery voltage on the coil +ve.

You say your car has a dizzie, but they all do.  I'm assuming you mean it 
has a replacement points dizzie of some type.  If so, then it all depends on 
whether the coil and coil wiring was changed when that was fitted. 
Originally your car would have had a length of resistance wire (the ballast 
resistance) in the harness in series with the coil.  With the points closed, 
and ignition on, if that circuit is good you should have 6v or less at the 
coil +ve, not battery voltage.  Battery voltage there implies there is no 
continuity through the coil, the points, and the distributor earth wire, or 
maybe no ballast resistance.

Late MGBs with the 45DM4 distributor may well have had a 32C5 coil, which 
may have measured as low as 0.8 ohms on the primary.  Using one of these 
with points ignition, or some other non-standard ignition system, could well 
result in significant overheating and damage to the coil.  A 0.1 ohm coil, 
if that is what you are saying you have, has either gone short-circuit or is 
completely the wrong coil and is one intended for modern electronic systems 
that use a very short pulse of high voltage.  However you need to remove the 
wiring from the coil before you can measure its primary resistance as there 
are other components on the wiring that goes to it that will affect the 
reading.

You are going to have to go back to first principles and determine whether 
you have the ballast resistance in circuit or not, which will determine 
which type of coil you should have.  If your coil doesn't measure up to that 
it has probably failed and will need replacing with the correct one.  Then 
you will need to check the circuit through the points and the distributor 
earth wire, as excessive current that is enough to damage the coil will 
likely damage these as well.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Any suggestions of observations from the above?

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu Apr 25 08:24:55 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 09:24:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
In-Reply-To: <9FBBF5248DBA417C9EE1DDF62AB1D8BC@paul>
References: <CAHEsxHq5=FyO=26XTAtM0ph5DYj2XpuNPjHgVgzsSforzDws0g@mail.gmail.com>
	<9FBBF5248DBA417C9EE1DDF62AB1D8BC@paul>
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHq1JNB3KEf=e7VJFa5c_ELrxWFKPgxg--PkjS2oo+raWA@mail.gmail.com>

Paul,
You've probably "hit it on the head".
Yes, I do have a points dizzy (from a 74B) that I've used for about ten
years now when I converted to HIFs. I never changed the wiring at all when
I did the conversion and kept the original coil. There is a "drive
resistor" (Moss #131-560, pp. 86) still wired in.
When I replaced the original 79 coil back in 2004,* I used a 79B
replacement at the local parts store*.
Therefore, I would assume that the coil is shot and that's the cause of my
problems.  I should now replace it with one from a 74B, correct?  When I
install the new coil (Moss#143200) do I just disconnect the drive resistor?
Will anything in the ignition have to be adjusted with the new coil?
I guess having the wrong coil does not affect (effect?) the performance of
the car since it runs real well (when it runs:)?.


On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 3:38 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>wrote:

> I'm wondering whether you mean the ignition relay doesn't click when you
> turn on the ignition.  The starter relay doesn't click until you turn the
> key to crank, and is drowned out by the solenoid clicking if not the engine
> cranking.  I presume the engine is cranking?  Originally the coil was
> powered from the ignition relay, and if that isn't operating then you would
> have no spark, but you would have no power on the second fuse up neither
> would you have battery voltage on the coil +ve.
>
> You say your car has a dizzie, but they all do.  I'm assuming you mean it
> has a replacement points dizzie of some type.  If so, then it all depends
> on whether the coil and coil wiring was changed when that was fitted.
> Originally your car would have had a length of resistance wire (the ballast
> resistance) in the harness in series with the coil.  With the points
> closed, and ignition on, if that circuit is good you should have 6v or less
> at the coil +ve, not battery voltage.  Battery voltage there implies there
> is no continuity through the coil, the points, and the distributor earth
> wire, or maybe no ballast resistance.
>
> Late MGBs with the 45DM4 distributor may well have had a 32C5 coil, which
> may have measured as low as 0.8 ohms on the primary.  Using one of these
> with points ignition, or some other non-standard ignition system, could
> well result in significant overheating and damage to the coil.  A 0.1 ohm
> coil, if that is what you are saying you have, has either gone
> short-circuit or is completely the wrong coil and is one intended for
> modern electronic systems that use a very short pulse of high voltage.
>  However you need to remove the wiring from the coil before you can measure
> its primary resistance as there are other components on the wiring that
> goes to it that will affect the reading.
>
> You are going to have to go back to first principles and determine whether
> you have the ballast resistance in circuit or not, which will determine
> which type of coil you should have.  If your coil doesn't measure up to
> that it has probably failed and will need replacing with the correct one.
>  Then you will need to check the circuit through the points and the
> distributor earth wire, as excessive current that is enough to damage the
> coil will likely damage these as well.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> Any suggestions of observations from the above?

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu Apr 25 08:29:38 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 09:29:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 74B bumpers
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHqboFnHA4qhGY+zRwcq1JPcuu=87xsvEK1MFocJMtfiPg@mail.gmail.com>

When I was out looking at the parts car, I noted that the chrome bumpers
with rubber overriders are in fairly good shape and that they are
unavailable in Moss. Anyone interested?
Monte

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu Apr 25 09:31:53 2013
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 10:31:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHq1JNB3KEf=e7VJFa5c_ELrxWFKPgxg--PkjS2oo+raWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHq5=FyO=26XTAtM0ph5DYj2XpuNPjHgVgzsSforzDws0g@mail.gmail.com>
	<9FBBF5248DBA417C9EE1DDF62AB1D8BC@paul>
	<CAHEsxHq1JNB3KEf=e7VJFa5c_ELrxWFKPgxg--PkjS2oo+raWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHp30MX7O13PvYiEiTrJSR2SDPcxtCLnp0rEoqxWCg_UqQ@mail.gmail.com>

BTW, This 79B has a 45D distributor with points and condenser. I'm now
confused as to which coil to order. I think my last post was wrong. Since I
have not changed the wiring and the "drive resistor" is still connected, I
should order Moss coil #143-230 (for a ballasted system) and leave the
resistor and other wiring intact, correct?

Whew, back 12 years ago when I bought a 74 parts car, trashed the ZS carb
on the 79 and converted to HIF's, trashed the Opus electronic ignition and
switched to a points dizzy, used parts from the 74, bought other parts new
and used.... I can't remember what parts came from where, so the ignition
system as well as the fuel and exhaust system are HYBRIDS!!  Several times
I've mistakenly ordered parts for a 79 when I should have ordered parts for
a 74:). I suppose many MGs on the road are now hybrids.

On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 9:24 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>wrote:

> Paul,
> You've probably "hit it on the head".
> Yes, I do have a points dizzy (from a 74B) that I've used for about ten
> years now when I converted to HIFs. I never changed the wiring at all when
> I did the conversion and kept the original coil. There is a "drive
> resistor" (Moss #131-560, pp. 86) still wired in.
> When I replaced the original 79 coil back in 2004,* I used a 79B
> replacement at the local parts store*.
> Therefore, I would assume that the coil is shot and that's the cause of my
> problems.  I should now replace it with one from a 74B, correct?  When I
> install the new coil (Moss#143200) do I just disconnect the drive resistor?
> Will anything in the ignition have to be adjusted with the new coil?
> I guess having the wrong coil does not affect (effect?) the performance of
> the car since it runs real well (when it runs:)?.
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 3:38 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>wrote:
>
>> I'm wondering whether you mean the ignition relay doesn't click when you
>> turn on the ignition.  The starter relay doesn't click until you turn the
>> key to crank, and is drowned out by the solenoid clicking if not the engine
>> cranking.  I presume the engine is cranking?  Originally the coil was
>> powered from the ignition relay, and if that isn't operating then you would
>> have no spark, but you would have no power on the second fuse up neither
>> would you have battery voltage on the coil +ve.
>>
>> You say your car has a dizzie, but they all do.  I'm assuming you mean it
>> has a replacement points dizzie of some type.  If so, then it all depends
>> on whether the coil and coil wiring was changed when that was fitted.
>> Originally your car would have had a length of resistance wire (the ballast
>> resistance) in the harness in series with the coil.  With the points
>> closed, and ignition on, if that circuit is good you should have 6v or less
>> at the coil +ve, not battery voltage.  Battery voltage there implies there
>> is no continuity through the coil, the points, and the distributor earth
>> wire, or maybe no ballast resistance.
>>
>> Late MGBs with the 45DM4 distributor may well have had a 32C5 coil, which
>> may have measured as low as 0.8 ohms on the primary.  Using one of these
>> with points ignition, or some other non-standard ignition system, could
>> well result in significant overheating and damage to the coil.  A 0.1 ohm
>> coil, if that is what you are saying you have, has either gone
>> short-circuit or is completely the wrong coil and is one intended for
>> modern electronic systems that use a very short pulse of high voltage.
>>  However you need to remove the wiring from the coil before you can measure
>> its primary resistance as there are other components on the wiring that
>> goes to it that will affect the reading.
>>
>> You are going to have to go back to first principles and determine
>> whether you have the ballast resistance in circuit or not, which will
>> determine which type of coil you should have.  If your coil doesn't measure
>> up to that it has probably failed and will need replacing with the correct
>> one.  Then you will need to check the circuit through the points and the
>> distributor earth wire, as excessive current that is enough to damage the
>> coil will likely damage these as well.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>> Any suggestions of observations from the above?

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Apr 25 09:46:35 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:46:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
References: <CAHEsxHq5=FyO=26XTAtM0ph5DYj2XpuNPjHgVgzsSforzDws0g@mail.gmail.com>
	<9FBBF5248DBA417C9EE1DDF62AB1D8BC@paul>
	<CAHEsxHq1JNB3KEf=e7VJFa5c_ELrxWFKPgxg--PkjS2oo+raWA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAHEsxHp30MX7O13PvYiEiTrJSR2SDPcxtCLnp0rEoqxWCg_UqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AF7D4D20B4A74ED2BDF2B9D1D46546A1@paul>

OK, the Opus was the earlier 45DE4 with the additional drive resistor, so that
explains that particular component.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ... trashed the Opus electronic ignition and switched to a points dizzy...

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Apr 25 09:50:13 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:50:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
References: <CAHEsxHq5=FyO=26XTAtM0ph5DYj2XpuNPjHgVgzsSforzDws0g@mail.gmail.com>
	<9FBBF5248DBA417C9EE1DDF62AB1D8BC@paul>
	<CAHEsxHq1JNB3KEf=e7VJFa5c_ELrxWFKPgxg--PkjS2oo+raWA@mail.gmail.com>
	<8137E91A30C14BB685C493EE04E5341E@paul>
	<CAHEsxHphM9HW0YVwS5VJhd66KDhjBMZKdO99iA7jcVEZy3yXtA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAHEsxHog+eCxsiZFJjuFuui461YmM6g0100Cy13cJaV_deNSvg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C8738FE23A6F4F1B8CED7A36401830D4@paul>

Sounds like the harness ballast is still in circuit then, do the resistance
checks to confirm, and if so get a rubber bumper ignition coil e.g. Moss
143-230.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  I do have the two white/green wires on the coil positive.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Apr 27 16:34:51 2013
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 17:34:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Coming to life
Message-ID: <6387854F-BC9B-4360-A1AA-936B2E337155@gmail.com>

The weather finally broke this week. Snow on Tuesday, 73F today.

Yesterday, I got my '77B out of storage. It drove the 15 miles home on the
freeway wonderfully, with the top down of course.

However, it wouldn't start. We tried 2 different batteries, and with a
professional charger, with start boost. Nothing. Fortunately, we had a nice
little decline for a bump start.

I charged my battery over night, and messured it at 13.4. When cranking, it
will drop to the high 11 range.  What I get is you can here what sounds like
the starter turning very slowly. Not the click and nothing you associate with
a dead battery. The fuel pump clicks normally.

So I'm going to pull the starter, perhaps tonight.  But is there anything else
I should try first. Can I bench test the starter, or is that better left to
the autoparts store.

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Apr 28 01:55:25 2013
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 09:55:25 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Coming to life
In-Reply-To: <6387854F-BC9B-4360-A1AA-936B2E337155@gmail.com>
References: <6387854F-BC9B-4360-A1AA-936B2E337155@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001ce43e5$be6f4ca0$3b4de5e0$@planet.nl>

Verify if all high current connections are tight fit.
Lose connections often are involved in these kind of Lucas gremlins....

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens
Paul Root
Verzonden: zondag 28 april 2013 0:35
Aan: MG List
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Coming to life

The weather finally broke this week. Snow on Tuesday, 73F today.

Yesterday, I got my '77B out of storage. It drove the 15 miles home on the
freeway wonderfully, with the top down of course.

However, it wouldn't start. We tried 2 different batteries, and with a
professional charger, with start boost. Nothing. Fortunately, we had a nice
little decline for a bump start.

I charged my battery over night, and messured it at 13.4. When cranking, it
will drop to the high 11 range.  What I get is you can here what sounds like
the starter turning very slowly. Not the click and nothing you associate
with a dead battery. The fuel pump clicks normally.

So I'm going to pull the starter, perhaps tonight.  But is there anything
else I should try first. Can I bench test the starter, or is that better
left to the autoparts store.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun Apr 28 15:12:24 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:12:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A little progress, lots left to do
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dz3nQo8-8xSeQ29Ct-7wCDQDtfBTVOui0PqG94s5m9PLg@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Friends,

Today I spent most of my ergs repairing the garage wall at my son's
house where his wife proved once again that the car and the wall
cannot occupy the same physical space.  Once back home, and rather
pooped, I worked on the TD a little.  Specifically, I stripped more
paint from the tub and sanded away a little rust.

The wooden timbers are generally very healthy on this car, with the
exception of the one timber below the driver's door.  The aft end of
it is rotted away.  Over on the passenger side, the tub metal is
rusted through at the running board and a bit below.  I have the
replacement timbers but haven't yet begun the replacements.  So far, I
am trying to repair everything possible on the tub, using the
installation on the frame to maintain the alignment.  Both doors close
beautifully and the latches engage fully and I want to keep it that
way.

Here's a picture of that rotted timber.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1224.JPG

Despite the wood debris laying below, the timber along the bottom of
the tub is in perfectly sound shape!  Therefore, the strength of the
tub is still there.

Most of the wood elsewhere in the car is sound, such as the plywood
behind the seats.  Here's how it looks.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1225.JPG

All of the screws holding these parts together are rusted into solid
chunks.  I won't disturb the two outer bits, other than sanding, but I
will drill out the screws holding the center panel over the
differential so it will be removable for fluid-servicing the diff.

While looking around in the cockpit, here are a couple of pictures
inside the tub.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1226.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1227.JPG

This metal in these hidden places will be lightly sanded and coated
with POR15, then just primered and painted.

Moving on around the tub, here's the A-pillar.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1228.JPG

Despite looking rather ugly, this area is really sound.  I'll tighten
the wood screws and clean this area up with a wire wheel in the drill.
 I'll reinforce any holes with the toothpicks and wood glue before
reinstalling the door latches.

Here's a look at the pedals.  The rubber draft excluder is perished
but I have a new one.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1229.JPG

Back on the right rear, here's a slightly out-of-focus look at the tub
where the little tack strip ends attach.  You can see that the screws
have split the wood.  I'll put strong wood glue into those cracks then
clamp the wood back together.  Same toothpick treatment in the screw
holes, if needed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1232.JPG

Here's a look at the left rear side, where no work has been done.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1233.JPG

Here's a look at the point on the rear of the tub where one of the
tank straps and spare tire carrier attaches.  All metal damage is just
surface rust.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1234.JPG

And while on the rear end, here are two looks at the fuel tank filler.
 They will need a lot of cleaning and polishing.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1235.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1236.JPG

I still haven't gone to my storage area to get the gas can.  Into that
can, I'll drain the gallon or so of fuel from the tank.  I'll then
disconnect it and lift it away for repairs and refinishing.  BTW, its
really hard to find someone to take/recycle old gasoline!

Back in the garage today, I didn't feel like attacking rusty bolts so
I stripped paint instead.  I first removed the paint behind the door
on the passenger side, then did the same on the driver's side.  Here's
how the later looks.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1237.JPG

I have sanded the upper half of the panel, mostly to see how easily
the rust is removed.  The bad news is that its hard to remove.  The
good news is that it DOES come off leaving a nice surface for paint.
One could do the whole tub is one long, painful day.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1239.JPG

Most of the paint on the panel ahead of the door has been removed but
not yet sanded.  Same with the rest of the tub.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1238.JPG

The final two pictures for today are, first of all, of the lower left
edge of the dash top showing the leaded corner.  This side is pretty
messy, unlike the passenger side.  I'll sand and possibly fill this
area to make the surface smooth.  I suck at lead work.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1240.JPG

On the leaded corner at the rear end of the door opening, the lead
needs a little filing to reshape the joint.  Otherwise, it too will be
fine.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1241.JPG

And that's it for today.

With best regards,

-rick

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Apr 29 01:50:34 2013
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 08:50:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Coming to life
References: <6387854F-BC9B-4360-A1AA-936B2E337155@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A90C76AF412442BE90D713AA741C15C4@paul>

Only dropping to 11v, plus slow cranking, is an indication of bad 
connections somewhere in the cranking circuit as Hans says.  Ordinarily you 
can expect a drop to about 10v with a good cranking speed.

Where did you measure the 11v?  The fault will further on towards the 
starter from that, so you can use the meter at the batteries, solenoid etc. 
to narrow it down.  Also measure between the engine and a body earth, which 
should show zero (or very low) volts while cranking.  Voltage in that test 
indicates the engine/gearbox earth is bad.


PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I charged my battery over night, and messured it at 13.4. When cranking, 
> it
> will drop to the high 11 range.  What I get is you can here what sounds 
> like
> the starter turning very slowly. 

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Sun Apr 28 12:34:31 2013
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:34:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 71, Issue 26
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1367172001.23270.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1367172001.23270.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DE3CED8D-B63C-4AA1-9A52-325ECFD9F499@duvallvideo.com>

Hans has it right,  clean all the cables before you bother to take the starter
off--  don't forget the ground at the frame and the engine ground....




>
>
>   1. Coming to life (Paul Root)
>   2. Re: Coming to life (Hans Duinhoven)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 17:34:51 -0500
> From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Coming to life
> Message-ID: <6387854F-BC9B-4360-A1AA-936B2E337155 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> The weather finally broke this week. Snow on Tuesday, 73F today.
>
> Yesterday, I got my '77B out of storage. It drove the 15 miles home on the
> freeway wonderfully, with the top down of course.
>
> However, it wouldn't start. We tried 2 different batteries, and with a
> professional charger, with start boost. Nothing. Fortunately, we had a nice
> little decline for a bump start.
>
> I charged my battery over night, and messured it at 13.4. When cranking, it
> will drop to the high 11 range.  What I get is you can here what sounds
like
> the starter turning very slowly. Not the click and nothing you associate
with
> a dead battery. The fuel pump clicks normally.
>
> So I'm going to pull the starter, perhaps tonight.  But is there anything
else
> I should try first. Can I bench test the starter, or is that better left to
> the autoparts store.
>
>


>
> Verify if all high current connections are tight fit.
> Lose connections often are involved in these kind of Lucas gremlins....
>
> Cheers,
> Hans
>
>
> However, it wouldn't start. We tried 2 different batteries, and with a
> professional charger, with start boost. Nothing. Fortunately, we had a nice
> little decline for a bump start.
>
> I charged my battery over night, and messured it at 13.4. When cranking, it
> will drop to the high 11 range.  What I get is you can here what sounds
like
> the starter turning very slowly. Not the click and nothing you associate
> with a dead battery. The fuel pump clicks normally.
>
> So I'm going to pull the starter, perhaps tonight.  But is there anything
> else I should try first. Can I bench test the starter, or is that better
> left to the autoparts store.
> _______________________________________________
> *************

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Apr 29 05:58:29 2013
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 06:58:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Coming to life
In-Reply-To: <A90C76AF412442BE90D713AA741C15C4@paul>
References: <6387854F-BC9B-4360-A1AA-936B2E337155@gmail.com>
	<A90C76AF412442BE90D713AA741C15C4@paul>
Message-ID: <8F99A76B-D9FC-4C52-A7CD-08EE60115AFE@gmail.com>

Thanks for all the thoughts. Everything is pointing toward the ground. I
didn't have anytime this past weekend unfortunately. And by the looks of it, I
don't have time during the week.

On Apr 29, 2013, at 2:50 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

> Only dropping to 11v, plus slow cranking, is an indication of bad
connections somewhere in the cranking circuit as Hans says.  Ordinarily you
can expect a drop to about 10v with a good cranking speed.
>
> Where did you measure the 11v?  The fault will further on towards the
starter from that, so you can use the meter at the batteries, solenoid etc. to
narrow it down.  Also measure between the engine and a body earth, which
should show zero (or very low) volts while cranking.  Voltage in that test
indicates the engine/gearbox earth is bad.
>
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I charged my battery over night, and messured it at 13.4. When cranking,
it
>> will drop to the high 11 range.  What I get is you can here what sounds
like
>> the starter turning very slowly.

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Apr 29 16:02:35 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 17:02:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Monday's TD progress
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dz6xfmpAvQ4a6suV0N_JT1zpRuKNna_DCrDfsTgWFfuvw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

Today I just disassembled more car, stripped more paint, created more
clutter, swept more garage.  Instead of weaving a tail, here are a
bunch of new pictures with minimal comment.

First up was the removal of the headlights.  Here's the wiring inside
the left pod.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1242.JPG

And a look at the front end with the bumper, front valance and
headlights removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1243.JPG

Here's the left front wing, now on the garage floor.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1244.JPG

The frame is in great shape and access to the engine is superb.  All
bolts on the front wing came out easily - exactly the same way the
rear ones didn't!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1245.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1246.JPG

The following pictures are included to demonstrate proper alignment of
the rubber trim.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1247.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1248.JPG

Here are a couple of pictures of the left front suspension, taken just
because this was the first time I got a good look at it.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1249.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1250.JPG

Here's a look at the left front of the tub bolts.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1251.JPG

I stopped for a moment to show you how cluttered the garage is getting.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1252.JPG

Here's the car now with most of the paint stripped from the tub and
the floor swept.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1254.JPG

The next three pictures are just documentation of the tub steel,
stripped but not sanded.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1255.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1256.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1257.JPG

Here's just another look at the car, as of 29 April 2013.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1260.JPG

Lots of coats of paint, primer and who-knows-what on the left rear
wing.  I stripped a little of the paint just for a look underneath.
There's at least three different colors of primer and two colors of
paint!  The ugly top-coat of turquoise paint is directly over the
Woodland Green, without primer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1262.JPG

Here's the front valance, just removed.  The radiator in the box if
from the Lotus Elan.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1263.JPG

Here's a box-o-lights.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1264.JPG

And finally, just a look into the car's grill, as it sits today.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1265.JPG

I'm tired, but happy.

On top of our recent Houston flooding, we're expecting more rain.  Or
as Shmi said, "Storm's a commin' Annie."

-rick

From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Tue Apr 30 13:42:30 2013
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 14:42:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Friends,

After hauling all the big metal bits to the storage unit, I spent a
couple of hours this afternoon stripping paint off of the spare tire
carrier.  What a P.I.T.A.!  Still, its coming up nicely and will look
good.  I keep telling myself that.

Here's a couple of pictures of the carrier in two stages of paint
stripping.  The first picture was taken about an hour before the
second one.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_131837.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg

I guess, with 20/20 hindsight, I should have researched a shop that
does sand/media blasting but as I am cheap...

-rick

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 30 13:57:07 2013
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 12:57:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1367351827.3337.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Or investing in a big ol' vat and a couple gallons of stripper..... ;-)

Dan D
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; Rui
Gigante <rui.gigante at gmail.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 3:42 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
 

Hi Friends,

After hauling all the
big metal bits to the storage unit, I spent a
couple of hours this afternoon
stripping paint off of the spare tire
carrier.  What a P.I.T.A.!  Still, its
coming up nicely and will look
good.  I keep telling myself that.

Here's a
couple of pictures of the carrier in two stages of paint
stripping.  The first
picture was taken about an hour before the
second one.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_131837.jpg
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg

I guess, with 20/20 hindsight,
I should have researched a shop that
does sand/media blasting but as I am
cheap...

-rick
_______________________________________________
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dwoerpel at wi.net  Tue Apr 30 19:52:39 2013
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 20:52:39 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
In-Reply-To: <1367351827.3337.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyOF6D-baa=i5ZWFQVR_3aX_Lwkvvxs8M-54C-4=9A8nQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1367351827.3337.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <58953.184.243.177.109.1367373159.squirrel@wm.wi.net>

Could be worse Rick!  5 of us restored the EAA's B-25 back in the
80's.  It had been in "Catch 22" and had 7 coats of paint
and rubberized backing insulation on the interior.  Got it done with
350 gal. of methylene chloride and 6 months of Wednesday evenings and full
Saturdays.  It's a messy job but somebody's got to do it....all part
of the fun.

Car is going to be great!

Dave W.



> Or investing in a big ol' vat and a couple
gallons of stripper..... ;-)
> 
> Dan D
> Central
NJ USA
> 
> 
> 
>
________________________________
> 
From: Richard Lindsay
> <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net;
mg-t at autox.team.net; Rui
> Gigante
<rui.gigante at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 3:42
PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
> 
>

> Hi Friends,
> 
> After hauling all the
> big metal bits to the storage unit, I spent a
> couple of
hours this afternoon
> stripping paint off of the spare tire
> carrier.  What a P.I.T.A.!  Still, its
> coming up nicely
and will look
> good.  I keep telling myself that.
> 
> Here's a
> couple of pictures of the carrier in two stages
of paint
> stripping.  The first
> picture was taken about
an hour before the
> second one.
>
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_131837.jpg
>
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg
> 
> I
guess, with 20/20 hindsight,
> I should have researched a shop
that
> does sand/media blasting but as I am
> cheap...
> 
> -rick
>
_______________________________________________
>
Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> donation  $12.75
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_______________________________________________
> 
>
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