From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Sep  1 12:10:09 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 11:10:09 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
Message-ID: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>

The horns in my '75 B hadn't been working for some time, but it was something
that I was going to look at when I got a round tuit.

I had voltage at the purple wire into the right horn and voltage on the
purple/black as well.  Good.
I had no voltage to the center rode under the horn button.  Bad.

After taking the center column covers off, I confirmed I had voltage at the
purple/black at the steering column and had no continuity from the wheel to
the wire terminal. Hmm.

Turns out the little spring contact that bridges to the wheel from the column
had relaxed away and I had an open circuit there.  A bit of mucking about with
needle nosed pliers fixed it and I now have a nice honk again.

But my question is this: anybody else experience this, and how long should I
expect my horns to last before I have to do this again?

--
Aaron

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat Sep  1 12:44:22 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 20:44:22 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>
Message-ID: <6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>

Verify if the little spring contact also has a carbon contact end.
This should contact to the ring.
If there is no carbon contact or if it is worn, it should be replaced.
The carbon contact does not have much fristion and the spring will remain in 
a straight loaded position.
When the carbon contact is lost, the spring hardly will be spring loaded and 
the friction of the steering wheel turned will bent the spring easily again.

Cheers,
Hans
71 BGT


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema at panix.com>
To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2012 8:10 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns


> The horns in my '75 B hadn't been working for some time, but it was 
> something
> that I was going to look at when I got a round tuit.
>
> I had voltage at the purple wire into the right horn and voltage on the
> purple/black as well.  Good.
> I had no voltage to the center rode under the horn button.  Bad.
>
> After taking the center column covers off, I confirmed I had voltage at 
> the
> purple/black at the steering column and had no continuity from the wheel 
> to
> the wire terminal. Hmm.
>
> Turns out the little spring contact that bridges to the wheel from the 
> column
> had relaxed away and I had an open circuit there.  A bit of mucking about 
> with
> needle nosed pliers fixed it and I now have a nice honk again.
>
> But my question is this: anybody else experience this, and how long should 
> I
> expect my horns to last before I have to do this again?
>
> --
> Aaron 

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Sep  1 12:58:16 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 11:58:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>
	<6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>

On Sep 1, 2012, at 11:44 AM, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:

> Verify if the little spring contact also has a carbon contact end.
> This should contact to the ring.
> If there is no carbon contact or if it is worn, it should be replaced.
> The carbon contact does not have much fristion and the spring will remain in
a straight loaded position.
> When the carbon contact is lost, the spring hardly will be spring loaded and
the friction of the steering wheel turned will bent the spring easily again.

OK that would explain it.  It appears to have a brass button, but no carbon
contact.  I had assumed that was the contact point.

--
Aaron

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Sep  1 14:16:15 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2012 15:16:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT?
In-Reply-To: <50410F83.70407@ktc.com>
References: <503F9BF4.5030107@byu.net> <50410F83.70407@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <50426D0F.6050001@justbrits.com>

<< On 8/31/2012 2:24 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
                 ... the swap was executed well. >>

Andrew, I TOTALLY agree with Charley   ! ! !  Chassis welding ?? Motor 
mount fab(s) ??  etc., etc. ? ! ?

Got (or can get some pics of same ??  I can post for you for all to 
view/check out !

Any info on motor ??  Clutch (and HOW was that done) ??  Trans ??

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Sep  1 14:17:58 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2012 15:17:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>
	<6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
Message-ID: <50426D76.5060906@ktc.com>

Many cars had a brass cylinder attached to the spring for a "brush".   
Maybe your button is what's left of the cylinder.

CR
On 9/1/2012 1:58 PM, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
> On Sep 1, 2012, at 11:44 AM, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>
>> Verify if the little spring contact also has a carbon contact end.
>> This should contact to the ring.
>> If there is no carbon contact or if it is worn, it should be replaced.
>> The carbon contact does not have much fristion and the spring will remain in
> a straight loaded position.
>> When the carbon contact is lost, the spring hardly will be spring loaded and
> the friction of the steering wheel turned will bent the spring easily again.
>
> OK that would explain it.  It appears to have a brass button, but no carbon
> contact.  I had assumed that was the contact point.
>
> --
> Aaron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Sep  1 14:21:47 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 13:21:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <50426D76.5060906@ktc.com>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>
	<6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
	<50426D76.5060906@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <DE89591F-D0D7-4FAE-A282-5CDC6A7F96FD@panix.com>

On Sep 1, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
wrote:

> Many cars had a brass cylinder attached to the spring for a "brush".   Maybe
your button is what's left of the cylinder.

I was looking at the Moss replacement part, and what I have looks a lot like
what they show in a new part.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=66355

--
Aaron

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Sep  1 15:06:43 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2012 16:06:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <DE89591F-D0D7-4FAE-A282-5CDC6A7F96FD@panix.com>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>
	<6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
	<50426D76.5060906@ktc.com>
	<DE89591F-D0D7-4FAE-A282-5CDC6A7F96FD@panix.com>
Message-ID: <504278E3.7010403@ktc.com>

Holy Smoke!  I was thinking of a spiral-wound spring with a contact 
cylinder riding on it.  They used to fit in a hole drilled in the 
steering wheel hub and rub on a slip ring mounted on the column. If 
that's what you have I'd replace it on the grounds that it may have lost 
tension in that long arm.  Too bad you can't just get the switch.  Looks 
like it just slides into the clamp and is retained by friction.

CR
On 9/1/2012 3:21 PM, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
> On Sep 1, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:
>
>> Many cars had a brass cylinder attached to the spring for a "brush".   Maybe your button is what's left of the cylinder.
> I was looking at the Moss replacement part, and what I have looks a lot like what they show in a new part.
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=66355

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Sep  1 15:59:20 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2012 16:59:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <DE89591F-D0D7-4FAE-A282-5CDC6A7F96FD@panix.com>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>
	<6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
	<50426D76.5060906@ktc.com>
	<DE89591F-D0D7-4FAE-A282-5CDC6A7F96FD@panix.com>
Message-ID: <50428538.8080605@ktc.com>

Just realized that I left plenty of ambiguities/mistakes in my last 
post. When I said .."If that's what you have..."  I meant what was 
depicted in the link to Moss's catalog.  When I wrote about a switch I 
was wrong.  That's not a switch on the clamp.  Not sure what you'd call 
it but it's there as connecting point for the wire harness to the horn 
ring.

DUH!

CR
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Holy Smoke!  I was thinking of a spiral-wound spring with a contact 
cylinder riding on it.  They used to fit in a hole drilled in the 
steering wheel hub and rub on a slip ring mounted on the column. If 
that's what you have I'd replace it on the grounds that it may have lost 
tension in that long arm.  Too bad you can't just get the switch.  Looks 
like it just slides into the clamp and is retained by friction.

CR
On 9/1/2012 3:21 PM, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
> On Sep 1, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:
>
>> Many cars had a brass cylinder attached to the spring for a "brush".   Maybe your button is what's left of the cylinder.
> I was looking at the Moss replacement part, and what I have looks a lot like what they show in a new part.
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=66355

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun Sep  2 04:45:05 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 11:45:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com><6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
Message-ID: <44DB0AEA6C61416E8C1F1839A7985E46@paul>

No carbon there, just the brass button.  There should also be a bracer
behind the copper spring and that should keep the spring under tension
against the slip-ring on the wheel.  It shouldn't ever lose tension, unless
perhaps the slip-ring on the wheel isn't at right-angles to the line of the
shaft so moves in and out against the contact as the wheel is turned.  Also 
depending on the column
you have the inner can move in and out if the UJ is removed, which can press
the spring back more than its tension allows for.  If the wheel has been
changed for a different type the spacing of slip-ring to contact could also
be different.

That Moss part is for the later dual stalks as it has four holes in the 
bracket, and doesn't have the bracer I mentioned.  Earlier horn contacts 
with only two holes in the bracket do have that bracer - 
http://www.leacyclassics.com/37h8051.html

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> OK that would explain it.  It appears to have a brass button, but no
> carbon
> contact.  I had assumed that was the contact point.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Sep  2 11:09:09 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2012 12:09:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <504278E3.7010403@ktc.com>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com>
	<6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
	<50426D76.5060906@ktc.com>
	<DE89591F-D0D7-4FAE-A282-5CDC6A7F96FD@panix.com>
	<504278E3.7010403@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <504392B5.2000108@justbrits.com>

<<  On 9/1/2012 4:06 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> I was thinking of a spiral-wound spring with a contact cylinder 
> riding on it.  >>

You thinking of the Frogeye style one, Charley <G> ?????

# 63 Contact found at:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29336&SortOrder=47#top

Bottom just right of center.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Sep  2 13:46:24 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 19:46:24 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] TD under dash panel
Message-ID: <20120902.154624.15863.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

  To remove the under-dash panel, must the steering column be removed?
   I have found and removed the side screws beside the cowl/dash stiiffener
tube. Are there others?
 Bob

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  3 05:42:18 2012
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 04:42:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
Message-ID: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,

Generic question for the metallurgy gifted:  What chemical do you recommend
for cleaning away copper corrosion so I can solder electrical connections?

Background: My '69 Silver Shadow was a techno-marvel for its day.  The entire
fuse, relay and circuit breaker panel is a tough, thick, glass fiber printed
circuit board.  The connectors and fuse holders are clamped to the board/lands
with copper rivets.   Today, 43 years later, the copper of the lands, fuse
holders and rivets has a nice non-conductive patina causing intermittent open
circuits.  I want to solder all the crimped bits together but need to remove
the oxide first.  Thus the question.

Yes, the topic car is OT but the issue of corroded electrical connections
plagues us all.  Ergo, I query the collective wizardry of the forum.

Thanks and best regards,

-rick

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Mon Sep  3 07:42:27 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 08:42:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
In-Reply-To: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002101cd89d9$f52b8130$df828390$@net>

Get some Flux, it will eat the corrosion and allow the solder to bond. It's
a paste when you heat up the area with soldering iron it will clean the
connection.

Chad Cooper
'72 B Roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 6:42 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper

Hello Friends,

Generic question for the metallurgy gifted:  What chemical do you recommend
for cleaning away copper corrosion so I can solder electrical connections?

Background: My '69 Silver Shadow was a techno-marvel for its day.  The
entire fuse, relay and circuit breaker panel is a tough, thick, glass fiber
printed circuit board.  The connectors and fuse holders are clamped to the
board/lands
with copper rivets.   Today, 43 years later, the copper of the lands, fuse
holders and rivets has a nice non-conductive patina causing intermittent
open circuits.  I want to solder all the crimped bits together but need to
remove the oxide first.  Thus the question.

Yes, the topic car is OT but the issue of corroded electrical connections
plagues us all.  Ergo, I query the collective wizardry of the forum.

Thanks and best regards,

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Sep  3 08:45:23 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 09:45:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <44DB0AEA6C61416E8C1F1839A7985E46@paul>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com><6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
	<44DB0AEA6C61416E8C1F1839A7985E46@paul>
Message-ID: <5044C283.5030708@ktc.com>

That looks like a more robust part.

CR

On 9/2/2012 5:45 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>
> That Moss part is for the later dual stalks as it has four holes in 
> the bracket, and doesn't have the bracer I mentioned.  Earlier horn 
> contacts with only two holes in the bracket do have that bracer - 
> http://www.leacyclassics.com/37h8051.html
>
> PaulH.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Sep  3 08:39:28 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 15:39:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
References: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<002101cd89d9$f52b8130$df828390$@net>
Message-ID: <C83A94A8B4BB4A678E3CB88282425BBD@paul>

There is flux and flux.  Soldering flux i.e. in cored solder can only remove 
microscopic layers of oxidisation from basically clean copper, it won't 
remove corrosion.  Acid flux as in a paste typically contains hydrochloric 
acid and may well be able to remove heavier corrosion, but then you have to 
completely remove that flux or it continues to eat away at everything.  Wire 
wool should be able to clean the copper rivets, also the copper tracks but 
you may abrade them away.  In the past I've repaired fractured and burnt 
tracks by wrapping a strand of copper round the component terminal and laid 
it along the track for an inch or so.  Should be easy enough on a 69 vintage 
circuit board, less so today!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Get some Flux, it will eat the corrosion and allow the solder to bond. 
> It's
> a paste when you heat up the area with soldering iron it will clean the
> connection.
> Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper

> Generic question for the metallurgy gifted:  What chemical do you 
> recommend
> for cleaning away copper corrosion so I can solder electrical connections?

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Sep  3 08:45:23 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 09:45:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of horns
In-Reply-To: <44DB0AEA6C61416E8C1F1839A7985E46@paul>
References: <D900440C-D781-4ACB-A859-5ED91589A5B4@panix.com><6EEEBD6BA89F4497B9973ABC892DA10B@uw471de61b465c>
	<71E9E609-EFE2-408C-B8D2-681CDC0907AD@panix.com>
	<44DB0AEA6C61416E8C1F1839A7985E46@paul>
Message-ID: <5044C283.5030708@ktc.com>

That looks like a more robust part.

CR

On 9/2/2012 5:45 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>
> That Moss part is for the later dual stalks as it has four holes in 
> the bracket, and doesn't have the bracer I mentioned.  Earlier horn 
> contacts with only two holes in the bracket do have that bracer - 
> http://www.leacyclassics.com/37h8051.html
>
> PaulH.

From lundgren at byu.net  Mon Sep  3 10:41:23 2012
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 10:41:23 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gator
Message-ID: <5044DDB3.8020605@byu.net>

I haven't done anything with the rack and pinion on my car.  I found 
that one of the gators has torn open.  (old and rotten)   I don't know 
much about these so I started looking in my manual and online and found 
the entire replacement racks.

At 40 years on the car, is this something I should consider rather than 
just replacing the gators?  I don't put a lot of miles on the car, the 
odometer shows about 75k on it and that is probably correct within 10k 
miles.

Thanks!

--
Andrew

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Mon Sep  3 13:34:54 2012
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 15:34:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gator
In-Reply-To: <5044DDB3.8020605@byu.net>
References: <5044DDB3.8020605@byu.net>
Message-ID: <012401cd8a0b$31dc7fe0$95957fa0$@com>

If it isn't warn I would just replace the gator. My rack has 120K+ on it and
it is fine.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andrew B. Lundgren
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 12:41 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gator

I haven't done anything with the rack and pinion on my car.  I found 
that one of the gators has torn open.  (old and rotten)   I don't know 
much about these so I started looking in my manual and online and found the
entire replacement racks.

At 40 years on the car, is this something I should consider rather than just
replacing the gators?  I don't put a lot of miles on the car, the odometer
shows about 75k on it and that is probably correct within 10k miles.

Thanks!

--
Andrew
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/steve at coastaldatasystems.com

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  3 14:08:47 2012
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 13:08:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
Message-ID: <1346702927.7381.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Thanks everyone.

I've since cleaned the board, soldered all the connections, and carefully restaked the rivets.

I cleaned it with a wire brush, scraped with an Exacto knife and coated each connection with solder flux before soldering.  I then cleaned the flux away with braked cleaner.

One correction.  The substrate is actually 2mm thick phenolic, not glass fiber.

The board is back in now and working perfectly.  Thanks again for the sage advice.

-rick

From pchast at francomm.com  Mon Sep  3 17:36:26 2012
From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 19:36:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
In-Reply-To: <002101cd89d9$f52b8130$df828390$@net>
References: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<002101cd89d9$f52b8130$df828390$@net>
Message-ID: <op.wj22i0lrsjevdj@pete200>

Any Plumbing outlet has liquid flux.
Works well....




On Mon, 03 Sep 2012 09:42:27 -0400, Chad <mgb72 at airmail.net> wrote:

> Get some Flux, it will eat the corrosion and allow the solder to bond.  
> It's
> a paste when you heat up the area with soldering iron it will clean the
> connection.
>
> Chad Cooper
> '72 B Roadster
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 6:42 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
>
> Hello Friends,
>
> Generic question for the metallurgy gifted:  What chemical do you  
> recommend
> for cleaning away copper corrosion so I can solder electrical  
> connections?
>
> Background: My '69 Silver Shadow was a techno-marvel for its day.  The
> entire fuse, relay and circuit breaker panel is a tough, thick, glass  
> fiber
> printed circuit board.  The connectors and fuse holders are clamped to  
> the
> board/lands
> with copper rivets.   Today, 43 years later, the copper of the lands,  
> fuse
> holders and rivets has a nice non-conductive patina causing intermittent
> open circuits.  I want to solder all the crimped bits together but need  
> to
> remove the oxide first.  Thus the question.
>
> Yes, the topic car is OT but the issue of corroded electrical connections
> plagues us all.  Ergo, I query the collective wizardry of the forum.
>
> Thanks and best regards,
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com


-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Sep  3 17:38:15 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 18:38:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gator
In-Reply-To: <5044DDB3.8020605@byu.net>
References: <5044DDB3.8020605@byu.net>
Message-ID: <50453F67.7020701@ktc.com>

  Replace the gaiters.  And watch out for the crocs. :-)

CR
On 9/3/2012 11:41 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote:
> I haven't done anything with the rack and pinion on my car.  I found 
> that one of the gators has torn open.  (old and rotten)   I don't know 
> much about these so I started looking in my manual and online and 
> found the entire replacement racks.
>
> At 40 years on the car, is this something I should consider rather 
> than just replacing the gators?  I don't put a lot of miles on the 
> car, the odometer shows about 75k on it and that is probably correct 
> within 10k miles.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -- 
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Sep  4 01:23:19 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 08:23:19 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gator
References: <5044DDB3.8020605@byu.net> <50453F67.7020701@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <7F680A374FF141B79BAE2D738DAEA59A@paul>

So I'm not the only one ...

----- Original Message ----- 

>  Replace the gaiters.  And watch out for the crocs. :-)

From lundgren at byu.net  Tue Sep  4 10:37:03 2012
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 10:37:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gaiter
In-Reply-To: <20120904.115034.31700.2@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120904.115034.31700.2@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <50462E2F.4030905@byu.net>

Thanks for the feedback.  One thing I did notice is my gaiter (the torn 
one) is dry inside.   (At least nothing is oozing out on the floor from 
the torn one.)  That concerned me.  I haven't poked at the other one 
yet.  What wears out in there?  (The oil should have been lubing 
something right?)

I have owned the car since '96 and never had anything leaking out of the 
gaiters. What do I need to inspect to make sure something isn't worn out 
from running dry?

I will take your advise on the tie rod ends.  I remember one of those 
broken on a one of my father's trucks...  It was exciting.

Also, please notice the updated gator spelling...  :)

--
Andrew

On 09/04/2012 09:50 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:
>    Opinion seems to be unanimous that replacing gaiters is the thing 
> to do. I would have recommended the same.
>    The tie rod ball joints have to come off to do the job. I the 
> joints are not perfect, now is a time to replace them also.
>    Here's how I do the job, rather more frequently than I would like 
> as today's rubber just does not seem to last all that long.
>    Remove tie-rod end from the wheel arm. Some use a fork (ok if you 
> are replacing the tie-rod end), some a puller, and some use two large 
> hammers.
>    Back off the lock nut one flat, then mark it or tape it to hold it 
> there.  Unscrew the tie-rod end and count the turns as you do so.  If 
> you re-use it, you will have the turns counted to help you put it back 
> on, and the lock nut to confirm its position. If you are using new 
> ones, at least you should be near where the alignment adjustments belong.
>    Cut off the old gaiter, Catch the gooey oil in a pan, each side.  
> Wipe it all clean, and if you have any reason to suspect grit has got 
> in there, spray it clean with WD40 or paint thinner or kero.
>   Install the new boots. Use the clamp or tie-wrap on large end, 
> leaving small end loose.
>   Specified oil is 1/3 pint of 90w gear oil. I use a syringe to squirt 
> it in the small ends of the gaiters.
>   Screw on the tie-rod ends and bring back the locknut from its parked 
> position.
>   Check the alignment. If it's ok, tighten the clamps on the small 
> ends and go driving.
> Bob
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren at byu.net>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Torn gator
> Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 10:41:23 -0600
>
> I haven't done anything with the rack and pinion on my car.  I found
> that one of the gators has torn open.  (old and rotten)   I don't know
> much about these so I started looking in my manual and online and found
> the entire replacement racks.
>
> At 40 years on the car, is this something I should consider rather than
> just replacing the gators?  I don't put a lot of miles on the car, the
> odometer shows about 75k on it and that is probably correct within 10k
> miles.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Sep  4 14:57:45 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 13:57:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gaiter
In-Reply-To: <50462E2F.4030905@byu.net>
Message-ID: <CC6BB959.3E8C5%mvheim@sonic.net>

I've never understood how a pool of oil at the bottom of the gaiter is
supposed to lubricate the rack.

The specified procedure is to jack the front wheels off the ground, remove
the pinion cover and add oil slowly while moving the rack left to right and
back. The clearances inside the rack are very tight, so this is a slow
drop-by-drop process. But at least it gets oil on the wearing surfaces.

As for your rack, if it feels tight, it's not worn. If it feels sloppy, it
could be worn, or it could be some other front end component. To test the
rack specifically, remove the thinnest shim from under the pinion cover. If
the rack seems tighter near the center of the travel, but binds up near the
extremes, it is worn -- the wear is typically concentrated near the center.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



On 9/4/12 9:37 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote:

> Thanks for the feedback.  One thing I did notice is my gaiter (the torn
> one) is dry inside.   (At least nothing is oozing out on the floor from
> the torn one.)  That concerned me.  I haven't poked at the other one
> yet.  What wears out in there?  (The oil should have been lubing
> something right?)
> 
> I have owned the car since '96 and never had anything leaking out of the
> gaiters. What do I need to inspect to make sure something isn't worn out
> from running dry?
> 
> I will take your advise on the tie rod ends.  I remember one of those
> broken on a one of my father's trucks...  It was exciting.
> 
> Also, please notice the updated gator spelling...  :)
> 
> --
> Andrew
> 
> On 09/04/2012 09:50 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:
>>    Opinion seems to be unanimous that replacing gaiters is the thing
>> to do. I would have recommended the same.
>>    The tie rod ball joints have to come off to do the job. I the
>> joints are not perfect, now is a time to replace them also.
>>    Here's how I do the job, rather more frequently than I would like
>> as today's rubber just does not seem to last all that long.
>>    Remove tie-rod end from the wheel arm. Some use a fork (ok if you
>> are replacing the tie-rod end), some a puller, and some use two large
>> hammers.
>>    Back off the lock nut one flat, then mark it or tape it to hold it
>> there.  Unscrew the tie-rod end and count the turns as you do so.  If
>> you re-use it, you will have the turns counted to help you put it back
>> on, and the lock nut to confirm its position. If you are using new
>> ones, at least you should be near where the alignment adjustments belong.
>>    Cut off the old gaiter, Catch the gooey oil in a pan, each side.
>> Wipe it all clean, and if you have any reason to suspect grit has got
>> in there, spray it clean with WD40 or paint thinner or kero.
>>   Install the new boots. Use the clamp or tie-wrap on large end,
>> leaving small end loose.
>>   Specified oil is 1/3 pint of 90w gear oil. I use a syringe to squirt
>> it in the small ends of the gaiters.
>>   Screw on the tie-rod ends and bring back the locknut from its parked
>> position.
>>   Check the alignment. If it's ok, tighten the clamps on the small
>> ends and go driving.
>> Bob
>> 
>> 
>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>> From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren at byu.net>
>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mgs] Torn gator
>> Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 10:41:23 -0600
>> 
>> I haven't done anything with the rack and pinion on my car.  I found
>> that one of the gators has torn open.  (old and rotten)   I don't know
>> much about these so I started looking in my manual and online and found
>> the entire replacement racks.
>> 
>> At 40 years on the car, is this something I should consider rather than
>> just replacing the gators?  I don't put a lot of miles on the car, the
>> odometer shows about 75k on it and that is probably correct within 10k
>> miles.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> --
>> Andrew

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Sep  4 17:17:43 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 18:17:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gaiter
In-Reply-To: <CC6BB959.3E8C5%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <50462E2F.4030905@byu.net> <CC6BB959.3E8C5%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <201209042317.q84NHoVf019112@nlpi155.prodigy.net>

Max,

The "pool of oil" doesn't stay at the bottom of the gaiters, and 
there is good reason why it is gear oil and not grease.  When you get 
the prescribed 6 fluid ounces of oil in the rack you can turn it from 
lock to lock, and you can hear the oil gurgle in and out of the 
gaiters and is passes back and forth through the rack 
assembly.  That's how you know there is enough oil in it.  Don't use 
too much oil, as that could explode the gaiters.

The MGA has a Zerk fitting on top of the steering rack housing for 
the purpose of installing the oil, so you don't have to fiddle with 
the caps or covers.  The small palm push oil gun is a nifty tool for 
this operation.  MGB design deleted the Zerk fittings (just to make 
life difficult).

The "Pinion Cap" is on the front side of the rack at the bottom end 
of the pinion shaft.  In most cases you do not want to fiddle with 
shims there, as it is controlling minimal end float of the pinion 
gear, and it usually doesn't change much.  If you take out one shim 
and the pinion shaft binds up, you screwed up.

On top of the rack you can find two caps over spring loaded brass 
dampers.  The one on opposite end of the rack from the pinion shaft 
is not so critical and is simply spring loaded with no 
adjustment.  The one above the pinion gear will have multiple shims, 
commonly a lot of shims.  When the brass damper plunger is new this 
is adjusted to minimal clearance, so if you removed one shim it would 
bind.  As the nose end of the damper wears the spring advances the 
damper to keep the sliding rack at zero clearance.  With a worn 
damper you can remove shims until it binds, then put one shim back in 
so it doesn't bind.  But keep any shims you remove, as they ain't 
cheap, and you may need them one day if you install a new damper plunger.

When you install a new damper plunger you can first assemble it with 
no shims.  Turn the cap down until the rack binds, then back it off 
just enough so it doesn't bind.  Measure the space under the cap with 
thickness gauges.  Install enough shims to fill that gap.  If you 
then remove one shim it will bind (so put the shim back in).

The rack motion should run smooth from center to both locks, spin the 
steering wheel with one finger when the front wheels are off the 
ground.  It should not bind anywhere along the travel distance.

Barney


At 01:57 PM 9/4/2012 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>I've never understood how a pool of oil at the bottom of the gaiter 
>is supposed to lubricate the rack.
>
>The specified procedure is to jack the front wheels off the ground, 
>remove the pinion cover and add oil slowly while moving the rack 
>left to right and back. The clearances inside the rack are very 
>tight, so this is a slow drop-by-drop process. But at least it gets 
>oil on the wearing surfaces.
>
>As for your rack, if it feels tight, it's not worn. If it feels 
>sloppy, it could be worn, or it could be some other front end 
>component. To test the rack specifically, remove the thinnest shim 
>from under the pinion cover. If the rack seems tighter near the 
>center of the travel, but binds up near the extremes, it is worn -- 
>the wear is typically concentrated near the center.
>....
>
>On 9/4/12 9:37 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote:
> > .... my gaiter (the torn one) is dry inside. .... That concerned 
> me. .... What wears out in there?  (The oil should have been lubing 
> something right?)
> > ....

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Sep  5 01:47:00 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 08:47:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gaiter
References: <20120904.115034.31700.2@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<50462E2F.4030905@byu.net>
Message-ID: <75AC0977E6FB4F7CB103976302FA955D@paul>

If oil was originally in there but leaked out from the torn gaiter then the 
inside of it and the rack should still be wet with oil both ends, not dry, 
even if it leaked out a long time ago.  It can leak from the shaft bush, 
yoke cover plate and end float cover as well as from the ends of (or a rip 
in) the gaiter.

I think MGA racks must have been more complex than MGB (which did originally 
have the lubrication nipple).  The MGB only has a spring damper and shims 
bearing on the side of the shaft to control depth of engagement with the 
rack as well as sideways movement of the rack.  The other end has a plain 
bearing which can wear, causes that end of the rack to rattle up and down, 
and has to be replaced.  If the track rods need some force to articulate 
them, i.e. without a gaiter they do not drop straight down, those are OK. 
If in the straight ahead position there is no free play between shaft and 
rack then that is OK.  Most wear occurs there of course, and if you fiddle 
with the shims under the yoke cover to remove that it will bind at either 
side.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Thanks for the feedback.  One thing I did notice is my gaiter (the torn 
> one) is dry inside.   (At least nothing is oozing out on the floor from 
> the torn one.)  That concerned me.  I haven't poked at the other one yet. 
> What wears out in there?  (The oil should have been lubing something 
> right?)

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Sep  5 12:04:41 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 11:04:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gaiter
In-Reply-To: <201209042317.q84NHoVf019112@nlpi155.prodigy.net>
References: <50462E2F.4030905@byu.net> <CC6BB959.3E8C5%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<201209042317.q84NHoVf019112@nlpi155.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyM6grWkY_4RFP=e2y+zwPgE3VWh+EsJ1aPNvTVDLB07pw@mail.gmail.com>

Barney,

With the MGA, one pumps  more oil in at every service on the car. Does any
excess naturally leak out, or how does one tell if there is too much oil in
there?

Simon

On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 4:17 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:

> Max,
>
> The "pool of oil" doesn't stay at the bottom of the gaiters, and there is
> good reason why it is gear oil and not grease.  When you get the prescribed
> 6 fluid ounces of oil in the rack you can turn it from lock to lock, and
> you can hear the oil gurgle in and out of the gaiters and is passes back
> and forth through the rack assembly.  That's how you know there is enough
> oil in it.  Don't use too much oil, as that could explode the gaiters.
>
> The MGA has a Zerk fitting on top of the steering rack housing for the
> purpose of installing the oil, so you don't have to fiddle with the caps or
> covers.  The small palm push oil gun is a nifty tool for this operation.
>  MGB design deleted the Zerk fittings (just to make life difficult).
>
> The "Pinion Cap" is on the front side of the rack at the bottom end of the
> pinion shaft.  In most cases you do not want to fiddle with shims there, as
> it is controlling minimal end float of the pinion gear, and it usually
> doesn't change much.  If you take out one shim and the pinion shaft binds
> up, you screwed up.
>
> On top of the rack you can find two caps over spring loaded brass dampers.
>  The one on opposite end of the rack from the pinion shaft is not so
> critical and is simply spring loaded with no adjustment.  The one above the
> pinion gear will have multiple shims, commonly a lot of shims.  When the
> brass damper plunger is new this is adjusted to minimal clearance, so if
> you removed one shim it would bind.  As the nose end of the damper wears
> the spring advances the damper to keep the sliding rack at zero clearance.
>  With a worn damper you can remove shims until it binds, then put one shim
> back in so it doesn't bind.  But keep any shims you remove, as they ain't
> cheap, and you may need them one day if you install a new damper plunger.
>
> When you install a new damper plunger you can first assemble it with no
> shims.  Turn the cap down until the rack binds, then back it off just
> enough so it doesn't bind.  Measure the space under the cap with thickness
> gauges.  Install enough shims to fill that gap.  If you then remove one
> shim it will bind (so put the shim back in).
>
> The rack motion should run smooth from center to both locks, spin the
> steering wheel with one finger when the front wheels are off the ground.
>  It should not bind anywhere along the travel distance.
>
> Barney
>
>
>
> At 01:57 PM 9/4/2012 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>
>> I've never understood how a pool of oil at the bottom of the gaiter is
>> supposed to lubricate the rack.
>>
>> The specified procedure is to jack the front wheels off the ground,
>> remove the pinion cover and add oil slowly while moving the rack left to
>> right and back. The clearances inside the rack are very tight, so this is a
>> slow drop-by-drop process. But at least it gets oil on the wearing surfaces.
>>
>> As for your rack, if it feels tight, it's not worn. If it feels sloppy,
>> it could be worn, or it could be some other front end component. To test
>> the rack specifically, remove the thinnest shim from under the pinion
>> cover. If the rack seems tighter near the center of the travel, but binds
>> up near the extremes, it is worn -- the wear is typically concentrated near
>> the center.
>> ....
>>
>>
>> On 9/4/12 9:37 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote:
>> > .... my gaiter (the torn one) is dry inside. .... That concerned me.
>> .... What wears out in there?  (The oil should have been lubing something
>> right?)
>> > ....
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/simon.d.matthews@
> **gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Sep  5 14:42:52 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2012 16:42:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gaiter
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyM6grWkY_4RFP=e2y+zwPgE3VWh+EsJ1aPNvTVDLB07pw@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <50462E2F.4030905@byu.net> <CC6BB959.3E8C5%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<201209042317.q84NHoVf019112@nlpi155.prodigy.net>
	<CAEUYfyM6grWkY_4RFP=e2y+zwPgE3VWh+EsJ1aPNvTVDLB07pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0M9W00F389LG6OC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Simon,

I don't pump more oil in at every service.  With the front wheels off 
the ground, I move the rack back and forth from full left turn to 
full right turn.  I just do it from under the car by pushing on the 
tires.  If I hear the oil squishing through from one side to the 
other, then all is well and I don't add anything.  If the oil isn't 
being forced out of anywhere and the gaiters aren't straining with 
pressure during this process, then there isn't too much.  I know you 
were asking Barney, and I'm sure he will respond and give my answer 
the official seal of approval, or disapproval, as the case may be.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 02:04 PM 9/5/2012, Simon Matthews wrote:
>Barney,
>
>With the MGA, one pumps  more oil in at every service on the car. Does any
>excess naturally leak out, or how does one tell if there is too much oil in
>there?
>
>Simon

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Sep  5 16:45:37 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2012 17:45:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Torn gaiter
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyM6grWkY_4RFP=e2y+zwPgE3VWh+EsJ1aPNvTVDLB07pw@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <50462E2F.4030905@byu.net> <CC6BB959.3E8C5%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<201209042317.q84NHoVf019112@nlpi155.prodigy.net>
	<CAEUYfyM6grWkY_4RFP=e2y+zwPgE3VWh+EsJ1aPNvTVDLB07pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201209052245.q85Mjdsi001070@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

Simon,

One does not pump more oil in at every service on the 
car.  Lubrication instructions vary, but always at 12,000 mile interval.
         The Workshop Manual calls for 15 strokes gear in the rack 
housing, and 5 strokes oil in the pinion shaft Zerk.  I will 
"estimate" (guess) that would be about 1 fluid ounce. ounce.
         A Lube Chart for MGA, published by Morris Motors Ltd, echoes 
the Workshop Manual.
         The Workshop Manual for MGA Twin Cam calls for 10 strokes 
gear in the rack housing, and 2 strokes oil only in the pinion shaft Zerk.
         A Lube Chart for the MGA Twin Cam, printed by The Nuffield 
Press Ltd, calls for 10 strokes in the rack and 2 strokes only on the 
pinion shaft.  The chart says "approved by the manufacturers".

If you follow these directions regularly, then in 70,000 to 100,000 
miles or so you might add as much oil as the original 6 ounce fill 
amount.  The factory apparently considered this to be 
acceptable.  Either they expected some to leak out, or they thought 
that double the amount of original minimal fill was okay (or maybe 
both).  I suppose in 100,000 miles the rubber boots were expected to 
fail (and be replaced if the car was still on the road), in which 
case the oil would be lost and you start over with the minimal 6 ounce fill.

I almost never lube the steering rack after the initial 6 ounce 
fill.  If it gurgles when moved from lock to lock I figure it has 
enough oil inside, so leave well enough alone.  So far it has not 
failed in 400,000 miles, although it has had the boots replaced a 
couple of times and needed to be refilled.  I also adjusted clearance 
of the inner ball joints once at about 300,000 miles.

Barney


At 11:04 AM 9/5/2012 -0700, Simon Matthews wrote:
>....
>With the MGA, one pumps  more oil in at every service on the car. 
>Does any excess naturally leak out, or how does one tell if there is 
>too much oil in there?
>....


>On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 4:17 PM, Barney Gaylord 
><<mailto:barneymg at mgaguru.com>barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:
>....
>The "pool of oil" doesn't stay at the bottom of the gaiters, and 
>there is good reason why it is gear oil and not grease.  When you 
>get the prescribed 6 fluid ounces of oil in the rack you can turn it 
>from lock to lock, and you can hear the oil gurgle in and out of the 
>gaiters and is passes back and forth through the rack 
>assembly.  That's how you know there is enough oil in it.  Don't use 
>too much oil, as that could explode the gaiters.
>
>The MGA has a Zerk fitting on top of the steering rack housing for 
>the purpose of installing the oil, so you don't have to fiddle with 
>the caps or covers.  The small palm push oil gun is a nifty tool for 
>this operation.  MGB design deleted the Zerk fittings (just to make 
>life difficult).
>........

From 71mgbgt at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 15:52:53 2012
From: 71mgbgt at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 15:52:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
In-Reply-To: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPx2zFFQUXj-zpbjPK-FDJcA+VM8LpP5x2VLOLoatRbJ_twBWQ@mail.gmail.com>

A bit late with my response, but earlier this summer I noticed that
the back of the fuse block on my MGB GT was dirty and had surface
corrosion.

I soaked it in 7% vinegar which helped a lot, then I applied some
'Spray Nine' solution and cleaned the rivets with a small brass brush.
Next I soaked the block in a baking soda solution for a minute or two,
to neutralize and rinsed with water.
Once the block was dry I applied some solder to each rivet to ensure a
good contact with the tabs and finished with a coat of 'Brush On
Electrical Tape' to seal the rivets and tab area.

I expect I will not need to worry much about the fuse block.

Henri

On Mon, Sep 3, 2012 at 5:42 AM, Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> Generic question for the metallurgy gifted:  What chemical do you recommend
> for cleaning away copper corrosion so I can solder electrical connections?
>
> Background: My '69 Silver Shadow was a techno-marvel for its day.  The entire
> fuse, relay and circuit breaker panel is a tough, thick, glass fiber printed
> circuit board.  The connectors and fuse holders are clamped to the board/lands
> with copper rivets.   Today, 43 years later, the copper of the lands, fuse
> holders and rivets has a nice non-conductive patina causing intermittent open
> circuits.  I want to solder all the crimped bits together but need to remove
> the oxide first.  Thus the question.
>
> Yes, the topic car is OT but the issue of corroded electrical connections
> plagues us all.  Ergo, I query the collective wizardry of the forum.
>
> Thanks and best regards,
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/71mgbgt at gmail.com

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Thu Sep  6 20:15:54 2012
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 22:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 67 MKI upper steering column nylon bearing
Message-ID: <140AEC1F-1A67-40CE-8B76-7551DA4D57F0@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
Has anyone replaced this bearing at the top of the steering column between the
outer and inner shafts of their early MGB?
I was hoping to remove the top bolt from the steering universal, pull out the
top inner shaft and then remove the old bushing and replace the new one to
take up the play I have there. Then hopefully replace the inner shaft. Is
there another/easier way to go about this? I haven't found a thing online or
in any of the collection of MGB books that I have.
TIA,

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Sep  7 01:55:48 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 08:55:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
References: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAPx2zFFQUXj-zpbjPK-FDJcA+VM8LpP5x2VLOLoatRbJ_twBWQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E3A73D735D19406E805D9D117D0F50CA@paul>

The thing is that the spades are riveted to the fuse holder so that as the 
wiring as attached and removed the spades can swivel a bit without twisting 
the fuseholder part.  They could have made the recess for the spades a 
closer tolerance so they couldn't swivel, but they didn't.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Once the block was dry I applied some solder to each rivet to ensure a
> good contact with the tabs 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Sep  7 02:00:43 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 09:00:43 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 67 MKI upper steering column nylon bearing
References: <140AEC1F-1A67-40CE-8B76-7551DA4D57F0@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <0FC26978F90544589E50EFF858027273@paul>

You should be able to do that on a North American Mk1 (pre 1972 models 
elsewhere), as far as I'm aware on non-collapsible columns it does just pull 
straight out, it was a separately quoted part.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I was hoping to remove the top bolt from the steering universal, pull out 
> the
> top inner shaft and then remove the old bushing and replace the new one to
> take up the play I have there. 

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Sep  7 10:39:41 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 09:39:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 67 MKI upper steering column nylon bearing
In-Reply-To: <140AEC1F-1A67-40CE-8B76-7551DA4D57F0@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CC6F715D.3EAD9%mvheim@sonic.net>

I'm pretty sure I used the nylon bushing on my 66 B, and it wasn't a
tremendous hassle. I can't really recall the details, though.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 9/6/12 7:15 PM, W. David Houser at mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com wrote:

> Listers,
> Has anyone replaced this bearing at the top of the steering column between the
> outer and inner shafts of their early MGB?
> I was hoping to remove the top bolt from the steering universal, pull out the
> top inner shaft and then remove the old bushing and replace the new one to
> take up the play I have there. Then hopefully replace the inner shaft. Is
> there another/easier way to go about this? I haven't found a thing online or
> in any of the collection of MGB books that I have.
> TIA,

From rstarkweather at scottmadden.com  Fri Sep  7 11:32:18 2012
From: rstarkweather at scottmadden.com (Rick Starkweather)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 17:32:18 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] 67 MKI upper steering column nylon bearing
In-Reply-To: <CC6F715D.3EAD9%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <CC6FA7E1.146BD%rstarkweather@scottmadden.com>

Dave:

I've got my steering column apart right now as I am "rebuilding" it
(repaint, new nylon bushing, new felt seal).  I had no problem removing the
old nylon bushing once the inner shaft was removed.  Just need a screwdriver
to press a small detent in the bushing.

Rick

Rick Starkweather, Partner | O: 919-781-4191 | M: 919-345-9871
ScottMadden Inc. | 2626 Glenwood Ave, #480 | Raleigh, NC 27608 |
scottmadden.com
rstarkweather at scottmadden.com

 <http://twitter.com/#!/scottmadden>
<http://www.facebook.com/#!/ScottMaddenInc>
<http://www.linkedin.com/company/37992>


> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 09:39:41 -0700
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 MKI upper steering column nylon bearing
>
> I'm pretty sure I used the nylon bushing on my 66 B, and it wasn't a
> tremendous hassle. I can't really recall the details, though.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
> on 9/6/12 7:15 PM, W. David Houser at mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>> Has anyone replaced this bearing at the top of the steering column between
>> the
>> outer and inner shafts of their early MGB?
>> I was hoping to remove the top bolt from the steering universal, pull out
the
>> top inner shaft and then remove the old bushing and replace the new one to
>> take up the play I have there. Then hopefully replace the inner shaft. Is
>> there another/easier way to go about this? I haven't found a thing online
or
>> in any of the collection of MGB books that I have.
>> TIA,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rstarkweather at scottmadden.com



________________________________
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From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Sep  7 18:10:19 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 19:10:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: [MG-MGB] Free MGB, 78 or 79
In-Reply-To: <000001cd8d4e$952cd040$bf8670c0$@verizon.net>
References: <000001cd8d4e$952cd040$bf8670c0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <504A8CEB.9050800@justbrits.com>

 From POS yahoo List.  I know NOTHING <G> ! ! !  NFI either - LOL ! ! !

Just a P.S.A. in case someone needs some late Model "B" parts ! ! ! 
Write Carl, NOT me <G> ! ! !

Ed*
**************************************************************************************
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[MG-MGB] Free MGB, 78 or 79
Date: 	Fri, 07 Sep 2012 19:14:50 -0400
From: 	Carl H <chatten at verizon.net>
Reply-To: 	MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com



I am about to get this 1978 (or 77, or 79) MGB convertible towed away 
to the scrap yard.

If anyone wants it, for free, come get it and I'll happily lose the 
$200 scrap bonus just to see her go to a some better use.

Engine is gone or in pieces, wheels will be gone, but windshield, 
dash, hoods, trunk & luggage chrome, shocks, non-OD tranny, other bits 
etc all very useable.

Car is near Frederick Md; I could tow to anywhere within 50 or so 
miles if need be. No title, numbers, anything. Bought a few years ago 
on ebay as parts car, took engine and lights, and she's ready for the 
next adventurous
soul to adopt her.

Lemmie know soon - wife (AND NEIGBORS) want it gone..

You can email me direct at chatten at Verizon dot net

Thanks,

Carl



__,_._,___

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Sat Sep  8 09:48:21 2012
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 11:48:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 67 MKI upper steering column nylon bearing
In-Reply-To: <CC6F715D.3EAD9%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CC6F715D.3EAD9%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <E897453C-01C2-4B48-913E-A9F11CB2CFD5@tampabay.rr.com>

Thanks all for the responses.
Cheers,
Dave


On Sep 7, 2012, at 12:39 PM, Max Heim wrote:

> I'm pretty sure I used the nylon bushing on my 66 B, and it wasn't a
> tremendous hassle. I can't really recall the details, though.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
> on 9/6/12 7:15 PM, W. David Houser at mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>> Has anyone replaced this bearing at the top of the steering column between
the
>> outer and inner shafts of their early MGB?
>> I was hoping to remove the top bolt from the steering universal, pull out
the
>> top inner shaft and then remove the old bushing and replace the new one to
>> take up the play I have there. Then hopefully replace the inner shaft. Is
>> there another/easier way to go about this? I haven't found a thing online
or
>> in any of the collection of MGB books that I have.
>> TIA,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat Sep  8 15:01:49 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 23:01:49 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
Message-ID: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>

Hi,

After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally found, 
that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are caused by I 
think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and the differential 
gear.
What is the cause of this?
Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of 
rebalancing the one, which is on the car?


Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT
no overdrive 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Sep  8 15:27:23 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2012 16:27:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
In-Reply-To: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
References: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <504BB83B.7010102@ktc.com>

Are you sure it's not a U-joint going bad?

CR

On 9/8/2012 4:01 PM, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
> Hi,
>
> After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally 
> found, that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are 
> caused by I think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and the 
> differential gear.
> What is the cause of this?
> Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
> Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of 
> rebalancing the one, which is on the car?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
> 71 BGT
> no overdrive _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sat Sep  8 19:24:34 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2012 18:24:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
In-Reply-To: <504BB83B.7010102@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <CC713DE2.3EB66%mvheim@sonic.net>

The other thing to check is that it is assembled correctly. It can be taken
apart at the sliding spline. When reassembled, the u-joint yokes need to be
parallel. If the spline is off a tooth, it will vibrate.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/8/12 2:27 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote:

> Are you sure it's not a U-joint going bad?
> 
> CR
> 
> On 9/8/2012 4:01 PM, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally
>> found, that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are
>> caused by I think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and the
>> differential gear.
>> What is the cause of this?
>> Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
>> Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of
>> rebalancing the one, which is on the car?
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Hans
>> 71 BGT
>> no overdrive _______________________________________________

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Sep  9 01:17:39 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 09:17:39 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
References: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
	<504BB83B.7010102@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <583C2C8C15EC4CC689513F5A4740700B@uw471de61b465c>

Good question. But - the vibration is in for many years, but as the car's 
mishap becomes a bit irritating.
A few weeks ago the GT has been safety tested (bi-annual as it is a 
classic).
Play in the UJ's is always verified as part this safety test, so I assume 
the joints are ok.

Cheers,
Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson" <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
Cc: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced


> Are you sure it's not a U-joint going bad?
>
> CR
>
> On 9/8/2012 4:01 PM, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally found, 
>> that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are caused by I 
>> think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and the differential 
>> gear.
>> What is the cause of this?
>> Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
>> Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of 
>> rebalancing the one, which is on the car?
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Hans
>> 71 BGT
>> no overdrive _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Sep  9 01:20:03 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 09:20:03 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
References: <CC713DE2.3EB66%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <181BF09DA1674CEBAA465B9D9BF2D38C@uw471de61b465c>

Thanks Max,

I'll verify this - if that's the case, it is easy to correct.

Cheers,
Hans
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <mvheim at sonic.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 3:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced


> The other thing to check is that it is assembled correctly. It can be 
> taken
> apart at the sliding spline. When reassembled, the u-joint yokes need to 
> be
> parallel. If the spline is off a tooth, it will vibrate.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 9/8/12 2:27 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote:
>
>> Are you sure it's not a U-joint going bad?
>>
>> CR
>>
>> On 9/8/2012 4:01 PM, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally
>>> found, that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are
>>> caused by I think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and the
>>> differential gear.
>>> What is the cause of this?
>>> Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
>>> Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of
>>> rebalancing the one, which is on the car?
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Hans
>>> 71 BGT
>>> no overdrive _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Sep  9 03:41:19 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2012 04:41:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
In-Reply-To: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
References: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <201209090941.q899fKXQ017274@nlpi155.prodigy.net>

There are three different propshafts for MGA, and you didn't say 
which model car. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/propshaft/ps101.htm

1.)  Don't assume anything.  Always check the facts.  It there is any 
perceptible freeplay in a U-joint replace it.  See here: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/propshaft/ps202.htm

2.)  If it is a late 1500 or 1600 type with 2-piece propshaft (fange 
at front), there might be wear and freeplay in the sliding spline 
just aft of the front U-joint.

3.)  The spline joint may also be assembled wrong.  Axis of the two 
U-joints have to be aligned in same plane to avoid vibration,  See 
here: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/0404/drshafts.html

4.)  It is possible to install an early 1500 propshaft with a mid 
1500 gearbox.  In that case the coupling spline is a mismatched size 
and wil not be engaged far enough, which can cause very odd wear on 
the spline.  That itself should not caue vibration, as the front yoke 
is carried in a sleeve bearing that is same diameter for either 
propshaft.  However, the short engagement length can lead to 
premature wear on the sleeve bearing.

5.)  The sleeve bearing is very commonly worn.  I suppose every early 
or mid 1500 type gearbox needs to have the sleeve bearing repalced if 
it has not been done before.  Running clearance is originally like a 
crankshaft bearing, 0.002" on the diameter, or 0.001" clearance on 
the radius for oil film.  When the sleeve bearing is worn the front 
yoke of the propshaft can wobble around with exactly same results as 
a loose U-joint (vibration).   The radial motion will also make oil 
seals fail prematurely.  When the sleeve bearing is badly worn it can 
make the propshaft yoke and gearbox tail housing catastrophically 
self destuct (same as having very loose crankshaft bearings).  If the 
front U-joint is tight but the yoke moves, then the sleeve bearing 
needs to be replaced.  See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/gt104.htm

Barney


At 11:01 PM 9/8/2012 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>....
>After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally 
>found, that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are 
>caused by I think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and 
>the differential gear.
>What is the cause of this?
>Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
>Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of 
>rebalancing the one, which is on the car?
>....

At 09:17 AM 9/9/2012 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>.... the vibration is in for many years ....
>....
>Play in the UJ's is always verified as part this safety test, so I 
>assume the joints are ok.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun Sep  9 08:17:10 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 15:17:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
References: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <5E3E73099981442BB929039CB875D361@paul>

New driveshafts are balanced off car on a machine so should be capable of 
being fitted to any car and run true, but it does depend on the trueness of 
the shafts in the gearbox and diff of course.  It's easy to check the UJs 
yourself, grasp the shaft and flange and try and turn them in opposite 
directions and see if you get any play, also for sideways play along the 
length of each arm of the 'spider.

The Workshop Manual makes great play about marking the flanges if you remove 
a prop-shaft from a car in order to replace it in the original position.  A 
nice to have, but irrelevant as far as balance goes because of the off-car 
balancing that was done on it in the first place. What isn't mentioned, but 
is vital, is to mark the all four *UJ yokes* before dismantling, get those 
back wrong and balance will be compromised.  This will ensure that the UJs 
at each end have the correct orientation relative to one another, which is 
something else mentioned in the manuals.  However Haynes (my edition at 
least) shows the incorrect exploded orientation but the correct assembled 
orientation.  The Leyland Workshop Manual (again my edition) shows it 
correct in both cases.  You can check this, which will show if the sliding 
joint has been reassembled incorrectly, but either shaft yoke could still be 
180 degrees out with each other, and either flange yoke could also be 180 
degrees out with its partner.  There is some evidence that the each half of 
the sliding joint should have arrows to ensure correct reassembly, but not 
all prop-shafts seem to have the marks, and they can be very indistinct, see 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/propshafttext.htm#yokes

Even with that you can still get the flange yokes 180 degrees out unless you 
mark them first.  If the UJ came to you with the car then a PO may have 
dismantled it and got it wrong, it might be worth comparing the cost of 
testing/rebalancing against the cost of a replacement shaft (and hope *that* 
has been balanced correctly ...).

Note that prop-shaft vibration would normally be evident at a given road 
speed in various gears, not just one gear.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally found, 
> that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are caused by I 
> think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and the differential 
> gear.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Sep  9 10:01:22 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 09:01:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
In-Reply-To: <583C2C8C15EC4CC689513F5A4740700B@uw471de61b465c>
References: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
	<504BB83B.7010102@ktc.com>
	<583C2C8C15EC4CC689513F5A4740700B@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <2101D214-9AA0-4B83-8397-4AC29F206F0B@gmail.com>

U joints can fail in other ways than excessive play. Grabbing and wiggling in
place is not a comprehensive test.
Joints can and often do get the needles frozen in place and will no longer
rotate smoothly. This induces a vibration.
To check for this unbolt the flange and rotate the joint by hand.
My guess I'd that if the yokes are assembled correctly you have a almost
frozen u joint.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2012, at 0:17, "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:

> Good question. But - the vibration is in for many years, but as the car's
mishap becomes a bit irritating.
> A few weeks ago the GT has been safety tested (bi-annual as it is a
classic).
> Play in the UJ's is always verified as part this safety test, so I assume
the joints are ok.
>
> Cheers,
> Hans
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson"
<ccrobins at ktc.com>
> To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
> Cc: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
>
>
>> Are you sure it's not a U-joint going bad?
>>
>> CR
>>
>> On 9/8/2012 4:01 PM, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally found,
that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are caused by I think
an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and the differential gear.
>>> What is the cause of this?
>>> Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
>>> Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of
rebalancing the one, which is on the car?
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Hans
>>> 71 BGT
>>> no overdrive _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Sun Sep  9 13:56:38 2012
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 15:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
In-Reply-To: <201209090941.q899fKXQ017274@nlpi155.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <20120909195638.RIBQ9.58997.root@cdptpa-web38-z02.mail.rr.com>

Like Hans I have a 71 BGT.  My fellow MG owners have observed my mechanical ability and cautioned I would commit sucide with a wrench.  So when my UJ's wobbled and driveshaft wiggled, it was safer for me to just buy and install a whole new assembly.  The cost was under $200 from several available US suppliers and the exchange was straighforward, simple, quick and fairly idiot proof.  Mel.
---
- Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote: 
> There are three different propshafts for MGA, and you didn't say 
> which model car. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/propshaft/ps101.htm
> 
> 1.)  Don't assume anything.  Always check the facts.  It there is any 
> perceptible freeplay in a U-joint replace it.  See here: 
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/propshaft/ps202.htm
> 
> 2.)  If it is a late 1500 or 1600 type with 2-piece propshaft (fange 
> at front), there might be wear and freeplay in the sliding spline 
> just aft of the front U-joint.
> 
> 3.)  The spline joint may also be assembled wrong.  Axis of the two 
> U-joints have to be aligned in same plane to avoid vibration,  See 
> here: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/0404/drshafts.html
> 
> 4.)  It is possible to install an early 1500 propshaft with a mid 
> 1500 gearbox.  In that case the coupling spline is a mismatched size 
> and wil not be engaged far enough, which can cause very odd wear on 
> the spline.  That itself should not caue vibration, as the front yoke 
> is carried in a sleeve bearing that is same diameter for either 
> propshaft.  However, the short engagement length can lead to 
> premature wear on the sleeve bearing.
> 
> 5.)  The sleeve bearing is very commonly worn.  I suppose every early 
> or mid 1500 type gearbox needs to have the sleeve bearing repalced if 
> it has not been done before.  Running clearance is originally like a 
> crankshaft bearing, 0.002" on the diameter, or 0.001" clearance on 
> the radius for oil film.  When the sleeve bearing is worn the front 
> yoke of the propshaft can wobble around with exactly same results as 
> a loose U-joint (vibration).   The radial motion will also make oil 
> seals fail prematurely.  When the sleeve bearing is badly worn it can 
> make the propshaft yoke and gearbox tail housing catastrophically 
> self destuct (same as having very loose crankshaft bearings).  If the 
> front U-joint is tight but the yoke moves, then the sleeve bearing 
> needs to be replaced.  See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/gt104.htm
> 
> Barney
> 
> 
> At 11:01 PM 9/8/2012 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
> >....
> >After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally 
> >found, that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are 
> >caused by I think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and 
> >the differential gear.
> >What is the cause of this?
> >Can this be rebalanced and if so - how?
> >Is it easier to replace the driveshaft with a used one instead of 
> >rebalancing the one, which is on the car?
> >....
> 
> At 09:17 AM 9/9/2012 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
> >.... the vibration is in for many years ....
> >....
> >Play in the UJ's is always verified as part this safety test, so I 
> >assume the joints are ok.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/melfrankus at carolina.rr.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Sep 10 01:35:51 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 02:35:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
In-Reply-To: <5E3E73099981442BB929039CB875D361@paul>
References: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c>
	<5E3E73099981442BB929039CB875D361@paul>
Message-ID: <504D9857.6080105@ktc.com>

Fine post Paul, especially the link.  BTW, you sure live in an 
interesting place.

O.T. :  A shame about the O. Bird statue vandalism.  How did that come out?

CR
On 9/9/2012 9:17 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> New driveshafts are balanced off car on a machine so should be capable 
> of being fitted to any car and run true, but it does depend on the 
> trueness of the shafts in the gearbox and diff of course.  It's easy 
> to check the UJs yourself, grasp the shaft and flange and try and turn 
> them in opposite directions and see if you get any play, also for 
> sideways play along the length of each arm of the 'spider.
>
> The Workshop Manual makes great play about marking the flanges if you 
> remove a prop-shaft from a car in order to replace it in the original 
> position.  A nice to have, but irrelevant as far as balance goes 
> because of the off-car balancing that was done on it in the first 
> place. What isn't mentioned, but is vital, is to mark the all four *UJ 
> yokes* before dismantling, get those back wrong and balance will be 
> compromised.  This will ensure that the UJs at each end have the 
> correct orientation relative to one another, which is something else 
> mentioned in the manuals.  However Haynes (my edition at least) shows 
> the incorrect exploded orientation but the correct assembled 
> orientation.  The Leyland Workshop Manual (again my edition) shows it 
> correct in both cases.  You can check this, which will show if the 
> sliding joint has been reassembled incorrectly, but either shaft yoke 
> could still be 180 degrees out with each other, and either flange yoke 
> could also be 180 degrees out with its partner.  There is some 
> evidence that the each half of the sliding joint should have arrows to 
> ensure correct reassembly, but not all prop-shafts seem to have the 
> marks, and they can be very indistinct, see 
> http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/propshafttext.htm#yokes
>
> Even with that you can still get the flange yokes 180 degrees out 
> unless you mark them first.  If the UJ came to you with the car then a 
> PO may have dismantled it and got it wrong, it might be worth 
> comparing the cost of testing/rebalancing against the cost of a 
> replacement shaft (and hope *that* has been balanced correctly ...).
>
> Note that prop-shaft vibration would normally be evident at a given 
> road speed in various gears, not just one gear.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> After some tests at several revs of the engine and speed I finally 
>> found, that some vibrations between the speed of 50 and 70 m/h are 
>> caused by I think an unbalanced driveshaft between the gearbox and 
>> the differential gear.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Sep 10 03:27:12 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 10:27:12 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Drive shaft balanced
References: <74D98A3098744B7C89AD9D351FFF0004@uw471de61b465c><504BB83B.7010102@ktc.com><583C2C8C15EC4CC689513F5A4740700B@uw471de61b465c>
	<2101D214-9AA0-4B83-8397-4AC29F206F0B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <38B1B7F368004156AA12B22FD3A615CD@paul>

Had that, it caused the gear lever to ride up and down as the prop-shaft 
rotated.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Joints can and often do get the needles frozen in place and will no longer
> rotate smoothly. This induces a vibration.

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Sep 10 09:16:42 2012
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 11:16:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Rick Brown
Message-ID: <81BF0C28-A7F6-459C-A13B-1F729332BAB7@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
Some sad news about one of our MG family.
Rick Brown passed after his long battle. Rick was the webmaster for several of
our MG national organizations and was recently honored for all his outstanding
service with an American MGC Register Award presented at a past Club Breakfast
by Jeff Zorn of LBC. He received a Special Award of Service from NAMGBR
recently, as well. He was a proud member of NAMGAR and the Mini Register.
Rick belonged to our local Nature Coast English Car Club/Suncoast Classic MG
Club here in Brooksville, FL.
He was a good friend and will be missed.

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Mon Sep 10 09:59:26 2012
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 10:59:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Rick Brown
In-Reply-To: <81BF0C28-A7F6-459C-A13B-1F729332BAB7@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <81BF0C28-A7F6-459C-A13B-1F729332BAB7@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <882960DF65F34F0492A2091B8F701A35@YOURF3E40984A8>

Dave,

Thanks for the note. I'm really saddened to hear that. Rick was such a
great, convivial guy. He will be missed.

David


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of W. David Houser
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 10:17 AM
To: MGList List
Subject: [Mgs] Rick Brown

Listers,
Some sad news about one of our MG family.
Rick Brown passed after his long battle.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 10 11:08:26 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 10:08:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Rick Brown
In-Reply-To: <81BF0C28-A7F6-459C-A13B-1F729332BAB7@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <81BF0C28-A7F6-459C-A13B-1F729332BAB7@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1347296906.24181.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Oh what a shame. I met Rick several times here in NJ before he moved south. A
nice guy for sure.

Dan D




________________________________
 From: W. David
Houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Monday, September 10, 2012 11:16 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Rick Brown
 
Listers,
Some
sad news about one of our MG family.
Rick Brown passed after his long battle.
Rick was the webmaster for several of
our MG national organizations and was
recently honored for all his outstanding
service with an American MGC Register
Award presented at a past Club Breakfast
by Jeff Zorn of LBC. He received a
Special Award of Service from NAMGBR
recently, as well. He was a proud member
of NAMGAR and the Mini Register.
Rick belonged to our local Nature Coast
English Car Club/Suncoast Classic MG
Club here in Brooksville, FL.
He was a
good friend and will be missed.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Sep 11 02:16:47 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 03:16:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Pant, pant, pant ! ! !
Message-ID: <504EF36F.3040805@justbrits.com>

I want one for my Birthday or Xmas ! ! !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUo7qOVycvs&NR=1&feature=endscreen

Wish I could 'stumble' across a REAL one like I did with this clip 
<sigh> ! !

Enjoy !

Ed

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Sep 11 16:02:07 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 17:02:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Pant, pant, pant ! ! !
In-Reply-To: <504EF36F.3040805@justbrits.com>
References: <504EF36F.3040805@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <504FB4DF.2080400@ktc.com>

They left a lot of steps out if they are really blueprinted engines.  
Nice vid though.

CR
On 9/11/2012 3:16 AM, " Just Brits " Shop wrote:
> I want one for my Birthday or Xmas ! ! !
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUo7qOVycvs&NR=1&feature=endscreen
>
> Wish I could 'stumble' across a REAL one like I did with this clip
> <sigh> ! !
>
> Enjoy !
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 11 18:04:45 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 17:04:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent Alt Light
Message-ID: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

As the subject states, my '76 B has an intermittently-flashing alternator light.... I noticed it when my son and I took a drive
on Labor Day. Then last Sunday, I drove it a bit and it never illuminated. Then tonight, took it for a short run to the library,
and it flashed a couple of times. No rhyme or reason - it seemed to flash when I was driving along at a steady speed, or
if I was idling at a stop light, or backing up. I had my headlights on tonight, but not when I drove around on Labor Day.
Battery cables are tight, and the fan belt seems to be tight (although it seemed to have maybe a touch more then the
usual 1/2 of give, so I might try tightening it a bit).

What else should I be checking? The alternator is certainly old (I don't recall replacing it since I purchased the car in 1988,
so maybe it is just failing). 


TIA,

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Tue Sep 11 19:16:58 2012
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 21:16:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Passing of Rick Brown
Message-ID: <AC9A45DE627B4AD1B5E5D36791485341@user5284c665dc>

This is to inform you that Rick Brown, a member of this list, a long time MG
enthusiast and the long term webmaster for NAMGAR, AMGCR and some local
websites, passed away on Monday, September 10, 2012 after fighting a long
bout with cancer.  

 

Funeral services will be on Friday September 14th at: Brewer and Sons
Funeral Home, 1190 S. Broad St. Brooksville, Florida 34601 ph:1-800-722-6451
at ten o'clock a.m.

Mass services will follow at St Anthony's RC Church, Rt. 50 Brooksville
Florida at twelve thirty p.m.

Immediately following the church service a motorcade of British cars will
proceed to his burial at The National Veterans Cemetery in Bushnell Florida.

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed Sep 12 01:04:58 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 09:04:58 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent Alt Light
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ACDBF4FEC12642E594C4178786FD7A4D@uw471de61b465c>

Bad contact - warn or stuck brushes in the altenator are the first 
suspects...

Cheers,
Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: "MGB- Yahoo" <mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 2:04 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent Alt Light


> As the subject states, my '76 B has an intermittently-flashing alternator 
> light.... I noticed it when my son and I took a drive
> on Labor Day. Then last Sunday, I drove it a bit and it never illuminated. 
> Then tonight, took it for a short run to the library,
> and it flashed a couple of times. No rhyme or reason - it seemed to flash 
> when I was driving along at a steady speed, or
> if I was idling at a stop light, or backing up. I had my headlights on 
> tonight, but not when I drove around on Labor Day.
> Battery cables are tight, and the fan belt seems to be tight (although it 
> seemed to have maybe a touch more then the
> usual 1/2 of give, so I might try tightening it a bit).
>
> What else should I be checking? The alternator is certainly old (I don't 
> recall replacing it since I purchased the car in 1988,
> so maybe it is just failing).
>
>
> TIA,
>
> Dan D
> '76 B Driver
> '65 B Project
> Central NJ USA 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Sep 12 01:34:48 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 08:34:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <94E922DE90804FBE9DDDB7D4FF31F228@paul>

My V8 was doing that a while ago.  Wondered if it was brushes so bought a new
set (cheap enough) before opening it up but there was virtually no wear on
them (a minimum of 100k and quite possibly 200k!).  The slip rings looked like
they could have been a bit muck so polished them and cleaned the surfaces of
the brushes and since then it has been fine - except for one instance a few
weeks ago, but I've been doing quite a lot of mileage since then and it has
been fine.

Could be poor connections in many places inside the alternator and outside it,
but not the brown/yellow as a break in that would *stop* the light coming on.
If you can catch it for long enough to do some voltage tests check the voltage
on the brown and brown/yellow at the alternator, and the brown and white at
the fusebox.  The warning light will glow when there is a potential difference
between it's two terminals, i.e. a potential difference between the
brown/yellow and the white.  If the brown and brown/yellow at the alternator
show, say 14v but the brown and white show, say 11v then there is a bad
connection between the brown at the alternator and the brown at the ignition
switch, which could be at the starter solenoid.  If the fusebox brown shows
close to the alternator but its white is lower then check these two at the
ignition switch, it could be the switch that is faulty or connections between
it and the fusebox.  If there is a significant difference between the brown
and the brown/yellow at the alternator spades, but the brown at the alternator
is much the same as the brown and white at the fusebox, then the problem is
internal to the alternator.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----

  As the subject states, my '76 B has an intermittently-flashing alternator
light....

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Sep 12 08:25:48 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 15:25:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <02B63CC1E7FE476FAF45AD7B111CAC96@paul>

As an aside, I nearly fell off my chair at this on Sunday:

Sebastian Vettel retired from the Italian GP with an alternator failure, the
second time such a problem has forced him out of a race this season.  Team
boss Christian Horner said the failures, the first of which happened when
Vettel was dominating in Valencia in June were extremely costly.  "It's
something that needs to be rectified" he added.


In case anyone thinks I made this up -
http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/formula1/19538530



PaulH.



  ----- Original Message -----

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 12 08:39:49 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 07:39:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
In-Reply-To: <02B63CC1E7FE476FAF45AD7B111CAC96@paul>
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<02B63CC1E7FE476FAF45AD7B111CAC96@paul>
Message-ID: <1347460789.28515.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Amazing - I didn't even realize that they still used an alternator in race
cars.... 

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: PaulHunt73
<paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List
<mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 10:25 AM
Subject:
Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
 
As an aside, I nearly fell off my
chair at this on Sunday:

Sebastian Vettel retired from the Italian GP with an
alternator failure, the
second time such a problem has forced him out of a
race this season.  Team
boss Christian Horner said the failures, the first of
which happened when
Vettel was dominating in Valencia in June were extremely
costly.  "It's
something that needs to be rectified" he added.


In case
anyone thinks I made this up -
http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/formula1/19538530
PaulH.



  ----- Original Message -----
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Wed Sep 12 08:47:58 2012
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 10:47:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
In-Reply-To: <02B63CC1E7FE476FAF45AD7B111CAC96@paul>
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<02B63CC1E7FE476FAF45AD7B111CAC96@paul>
Message-ID: <966DE21F-D6FE-4BE0-B328-C123A450292F@trebelhorn.com>

Needs to be rectified?  Oh, not electrical humor again...

;-)

Matt

On 12 Sep, 2012, at 10:25 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

> As an aside, I nearly fell off my chair at this on Sunday:
>
> Sebastian Vettel retired from the Italian GP with an alternator  
> failure, the
> second time such a problem has forced him out of a race this  
> season.  Team
> boss Christian Horner said the failures, the first of which  
> happened when
> Vettel was dominating in Valencia in June were extremely costly.   
> "It's
> something that needs to be rectified" he added.
>
> In case anyone thinks I made this up -
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/formula1/19538530
>
> PaulH.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 12 11:13:30 2012
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 10:13:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] OT, 40DCOE/18 rebuilds
Message-ID: <1347470010.71729.YahooMailClassic@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,

A number of you expressed interest in following the rebuild of Jack's '65 Elan's Weber 40DCOE/18 carbs.  I posted a few picture links earlier.  If interested, you may have seen them.  Today I write just to report that the first carb's rebuild is progressing nicely.

The carburetter is disassembled, which was no minor feat given that it was glued together with 10 years of gum.  Still, the Chem-Dip did its job on most bits.  RustEater freed the remaining bits (like the choke valves).  And I can now report that the carb body is clean (and beautiful) with all passages clean, clear and undamaged, awaiting reassembly.  All jets and tubes have also been cleaned and are undamaged.  Next step is to verify that the various jets and tubes match the stock Elan specification.  Who knows what monkeying-around may have been done by some PO.

Jack brought the rebuild kits over to me last weekend so I have everything I need to put the first of these instruments back together.  I'll share photos of the whole reassembly, starting with setting the float level properly.  

Until then...

regards,

-rick

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Sep 12 11:41:08 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 13:41:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] electrical humor
In-Reply-To: <mailman.831.1347469837.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.831.1347469837.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <085FD352DF9D4338BD266ED4C36FB2CE@EricJRussellPC>

I think it was Brian Redman giving a speech at Watkins Glen a few years ago.
He told of the time he was towed in to the pits with a dead race car. When
the owner asked what was wrong he replied, "looks like an electrical
problem" (connecting rod had exited the block and cut the battery cable...)

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

> As an aside, I nearly fell off my chair at this on Sunday:
>
> Sebastian Vettel retired from the Italian GP with an alternator failure,
> the
> second time such a problem has forced him out of a race this season.  Team
> boss Christian Horner said the failures, the first of which happened when
> Vettel was dominating in Valencia in June were extremely costly.  "It's
> something that needs to be rectified" he added.
>
> In case anyone thinks I made this up -
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/formula1/19538530
>
> PaulH.

From Mowog1 at aol.com  Wed Sep 12 14:43:39 2012
From: Mowog1 at aol.com (Mowog1 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 16:43:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Passing of Rick Brown
Message-ID: <1d539.70c5814d.3d824dfb@aol.com>

Rick also served as webmaster for NAMGBR as well a the North American  
Council of M.G.Registers.
 
The M.G. community has lost a great enthusiast.
 
Please remember Rick on Friday.....drive your M.G.....and turn on your  
headlamps in his memory!
 
rick ingram
Executive Director
North American Council of M.G. Registers
 
 

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 11  Sep 2012 21:16:58 -0400
From: "Rick Brown"  <mgrick at mgcars.org.uk>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs]  Passing of Rick Brown
Message-ID:  <AC9A45DE627B4AD1B5E5D36791485341 at user5284c665dc>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

This is to inform you that Rick Brown, a  member of this list, a long time 
MG
enthusiast and the long term webmaster  for NAMGAR, AMGCR and some local
websites, passed away on Monday, September  10, 2012 after fighting a long
bout with cancer.   



Funeral services will be on Friday September 14th at: Brewer and  Sons
Funeral Home, 1190 S. Broad St. Brooksville, Florida 34601  
ph:1-800-722-6451
at ten o'clock a.m.

Mass services will follow at St  Anthony's RC Church, Rt. 50 Brooksville
Florida at twelve thirty  p.m.

Immediately following the church service a motorcade of British cars  will
proceed to his burial at The National Veterans Cemetery in Bushnell  
Florida.


------------------------------

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 12 15:33:04 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 16:33:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
In-Reply-To: <1347460789.28515.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<02B63CC1E7FE476FAF45AD7B111CAC96@paul>
	<1347460789.28515.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5050FF90.7070804@ktc.com>

Well Dan, what did you think they used? =-O

CR
On 9/12/2012 9:39 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Amazing - I didn't even realize that they still used an alternator in race
> cars....
>
> Dan D
> '76 B Driver
> '65 B Project
> Central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>   From: PaulHunt73
> <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
> To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List
> <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 10:25 AM
> Subject:
> Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
>   
> As an aside, I nearly fell off my
> chair at this on Sunday:
>
> Sebastian Vettel retired from the Italian GP with an
> alternator failure, the
> second time such a problem has forced him out of a
> race this season.  Team
> boss Christian Horner said the failures, the first of
> which happened when
> Vettel was dominating in Valencia in June were extremely
> costly.  "It's
> something that needs to be rectified" he added.
>
>
> In case
> anyone thinks I made this up -
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/formula1/19538530
> PaulH.
>
>
>
>    ----- Original Message -----
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Sep 13 06:07:52 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 07:07:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] OT, 40DCOE/18 rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <1347470010.71729.YahooMailClassic@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1347470010.71729.YahooMailClassic@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5051CC98.90102@ktc.com>

You might want to repost the link for those of us who missed it earlier.

CR
On 9/12/2012 12:13 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> A number of you expressed interest in following the rebuild of Jack's '65 Elan's Weber 40DCOE/18 carbs.  I posted a few picture links earlier.  If interested, you may have seen them.  Today I write just to report that the first carb's rebuild is progressing nicely.

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Thu Sep 13 10:12:01 2012
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (sdesalvo at frontiernet.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 09:12:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] andrex shock links
Message-ID: <1347552721.97166.YahooMailNeo@web125206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I am looking for apair of Andrex shock links for the front shocks on my MG
TD MarkII. OR a drawing, schematic, or something I could use to have a machine
shop fabricate from. Anyone with a large scale drawing? 
Thanks in advance for
any info.
Sam 

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Thu Sep 13 19:34:21 2012
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 21:34:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hello?
Message-ID: <5526CBD8-F0CA-4E81-B73F-E7393842629D@tampabay.rr.com>

Where is everyone?
>From 50 + messages a day to one or two?
Anybody else?

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Sep 13 20:14:13 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 19:14:13 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <5526CBD8-F0CA-4E81-B73F-E7393842629D@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <5526CBD8-F0CA-4E81-B73F-E7393842629D@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyNkLE-JSVD_u2azCjcBRrn7Qh3FMgH+s4KBriXcns-JXQ@mail.gmail.com>

I think some people have moved to various web-based forms.

Simon

On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 6:34 PM, W. David Houser
<mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>wrote:

> Where is everyone?
> From 50 + messages a day to one or two?
> Anybody else?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Sep 14 02:38:06 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 09:38:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Hello?
References: <5526CBD8-F0CA-4E81-B73F-E7393842629D@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <849065B2BF8241B6819312A0ECC8236E@paul>

Hasn't been 50+ per day for years, from what I have been seeing.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Where is everyone?
> From 50 + messages a day to one or two?
> Anybody else?

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Sep 14 11:48:43 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 17:48:43 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Hello?
Message-ID: <20120914.134843.10592.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

  Perhaps we are all out driving the MGs?
  Here is a question for the group:  who makes the most original-appearing
wiring harness for TDs.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>, "MGList List"
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Hello?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 09:38:06 +0100

Hasn't been 50+ per day for years, from what I have been seeing.

----- Original Message -----
> Where is everyone?
> From 50 + messages a day to one or two?
> Anybody else?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Sep 14 11:57:12 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 10:57:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <849065B2BF8241B6819312A0ECC8236E@paul>
Message-ID: <CC78BE08.3EEA5%mvheim@sonic.net>

40 messages this week -- that's been about typical.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/14/12 1:38 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com wrote:

> Hasn't been 50+ per day for years, from what I have been seeing.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Where is everyone?
>> From 50 + messages a day to one or two?
>> Anybody else?

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 14 12:22:56 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 11:22:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
In-Reply-To: <94E922DE90804FBE9DDDB7D4FF31F228@paul>
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<94E922DE90804FBE9DDDB7D4FF31F228@paul>
Message-ID: <1347646976.11760.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all of the replies. I will probably just pull it off and take it to
my local FLAPS and have it tested. Would not
surprise me if it was going,
given it's (apparent) age. Will report results.

If I do have to replace it,
is there another make that is a direct-fit? Seems to me I recall that  Saturn
alt was basically the
same thing...? Maybe with one less wire?

Thx,

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Driver
Central NJ USA

________________________________

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Fri Sep 14 15:03:40 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 16:03:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
In-Reply-To: <1347646976.11760.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<94E922DE90804FBE9DDDB7D4FF31F228@paul>
	<1347646976.11760.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50539BAC.9020307@ktc.com>

I bought a Duralast rebuilt direct replacement from Autozone quite a few 
years ago.  Lifetime warranty and it dropped right in.

CR

On 9/14/2012 1:22 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> If I do have to replace it,
> is there another make that is a direct-fit? Seems to me I recall that  Saturn
> alt was basically the
> same thing...? Maybe with one less wire?
>
> Thx,
>
> Dan D

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 16 08:05:31 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 07:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Intermittent Alt Light
In-Reply-To: <50539BAC.9020307@ktc.com>
References: <1347408285.70517.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<94E922DE90804FBE9DDDB7D4FF31F228@paul>
	<1347646976.11760.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<50539BAC.9020307@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <1347804331.84325.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, only had a little time to mess around with it yesterday so I just tightened the belt as it seemed a little loose. When I started
the car the light came on but went off as soon as I revved the engine, and never came back on during a 20-minute drive. If I get
a chance today, will take another drive and see whether the light comes on. At some point, I still need to remove it and get it
tested but perhaps it was simply the belt being a little loose. One can hope, anyways....

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA




________________________________

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Sep 16 10:33:53 2012
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 16:33:53 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Selling autos on Ebay
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73307C@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

Somewhat off-topic but I have put one of my vehicles up for sale on Ebay. I
have a 1974 Toyota Landcruiser that I have been meaning to sell for a while. I
bought it in 1979 and it has been a good, reliable and durable rig. The
problem is that I rarely drive it anymore. It was, for many years, my
convertible as it is a soft top model. But I have two Bs now to use for the
top off season, plus removing and installing the top is a very time consuming
process so I typically took the top off and left it off during the short
Montana convertible season (about 3 months). For general off-roading, I have a
2001 Land Rover Discovery that has taken over most of that mileage. As the
Landcruiser sits more, it is at a time where I need to put money in it - new
tires and exhaust for starters. So I decided to list it on Ebay yesterday and
see what happens.

What has happened so far (less than 24 hours) is that I have gotten two
inquiries, one from Ahmed in the UAE requesting interior pictures while
commenting that shipping will cost him $2000. The other inquiry is from a
person from Florida (on the other side of the USA, about 2000 miles) who wants
me to call a Florida number. A check on the ID used indicates the person has a
"private" Ebay profile, has gone through 5 different usernames that tend to
appear to be Islamic (i.e. i_liuv_allah, servant*of*allah). Nothing against
Moslems as I lived in Turkey for two years, just an observation.


Just checking on other experiences. This is a very used vehicle - listing
here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221125420361

Like any other classic vehicle, values are quite variable so it is hard to
assess a true value. But values and availability suggest that this is a
vehicle that is not economically feasible or smart to purchase from a great
distance away when similar models can be found closer. So far, I suspect I am
getting the attention of scammers of some sort.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B
74 Landcruiser
01 LandRover Discovery

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep 16 10:49:47 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:49:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Selling autos on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73307C@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73307C@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <518B87C8818D42BD8C95561BF54C1DE4@Spitfire>

I have listed and sold vehicles on ebay.  whenever I list anything, I always 
put in something to the effect:  scammers don't bother - this item is not 
going anywhere until my bank assures me the cash is in my account.

that has so far prevented those kinds of experiences.

most recently I listed a vehicle (72 VW convertible that I had run across 
being sold by a friend of a friend way too cheap) and I got a call from 
arizona (I'm in dallas).  he was offering to make the deposit via paypal, 
and was going to bring me the cash if I would take down the listing.  he 
paypal'd me the $$ so I was still ahead taking down the listing.  he brought 
me cash a few days later and the car is now in arizona.  I was skeptical and 
careful.

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Sun Sep 16 14:32:14 2012
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 16:32:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
Message-ID: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>

I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after I
had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is that
when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and attempt
to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I can use them is place
them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so they don't move.
Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for working under
the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps from moving on
my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
Frank Krajewski

From pryner at verizon.net  Sun Sep 16 14:41:01 2012
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 16:41:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <D099F3A3542B41A49A25DD863F486DF7@PetePC>

Thats why I don't use them.  They can also move very easy with the car on 
them.  For me nothing beats a hydraulic floor jack (or a lift if you are 
lucky enough to have one).  They are dangerous and shouldn't be sold in my 
opinion.
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <frankk12 at verizon.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:32 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of


>I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
> front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after 
> I
> had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is 
> that
> when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and 
> attempt
> to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I can use them is 
> place
> them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so they don't move.
> Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for working 
> under
> the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps from 
> moving on
> my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
> Frank Krajewski
> _______________________________________________

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Sun Sep 16 15:26:54 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 17:26:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <D8AB9908-F72C-4316-B3C3-3D8F52E836D7@aol.com>


From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Sep 16 16:21:04 2012
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 22:21:04 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F733360@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

The solution should be interesting. I also had this problem. The ramps worked
fine back when I didn't have a garage and had to do all my work on a gravel
driveway. But when I finally moved to a house with pavement and a garage, the
ramps were no longer useful. I bought jack stands instead and use a floor
jack. They don't slide, I don't have to worry about lining up with the ramps,
and I no longer have the ramps in the way when I need side access (like
tightening the bolts on the exhaust flanges).

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of frankk12 at verizon.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 2:32 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of

I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after I
had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is that
when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and attempt
to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I can use them is place
them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so they don't move.
Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for working under
the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps from moving on
my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
Frank Krajewski

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 16 16:36:29 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 15:36:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <1347834989.42868.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hmm, I would have thought that there would be some sort of flange extending
out from the front of the ramp that the front
tires would roll over before
they started 'uphill'.... Failing that, I wonder if you could duct tape a
piece of 2X4 to the floor in front
of the ramps to hold them in place?

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ SA


________________________________
From: "frankk12 at verizon.net" <frankk12 at verizon.net>
To: MG List
<mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:32 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
MG Related - Sort Of
 
I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes
and working under the
front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at
a yard sale after I
had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem
with both sets is that
when I position them in front of the front wheels on my
shop floor and attempt
to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I
can use them is place
them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so
they don't move.
Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for
working under
the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps
from moving on
my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
Frank
Krajewski
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Sun Sep 16 16:37:46 2012
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 18:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<D099F3A3542B41A49A25DD863F486DF7@PetePC>
Message-ID: <95E2945FF0CC4DA9A0D9C73C7CD51DCE@frankdcczr6l6k>

Pete: The best solution perhaps is to jack the car up and use jack stands 
but the ramp solution seemed so much easier until now.
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner at verizon.net>
To: <frankk12 at verizon.net>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of


> Thats why I don't use them.  They can also move very easy with the car on 
> them.  For me nothing beats a hydraulic floor jack (or a lift if you are 
> lucky enough to have one).  They are dangerous and shouldn't be sold in my 
> opinion.
> Pete
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <frankk12 at verizon.net>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:32 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
>
>
>>I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
>> front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale 
>> after I
>> had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is 
>> that
>> when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and 
>> attempt
>> to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I can use them is 
>> place
>> them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so they don't move.
>> Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for working 
>> under
>> the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps from 
>> moving on
>> my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
>> Frank Krajewski
>> _______________________________________________

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 16:50:14 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 17:50:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <1347834989.42868.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<1347834989.42868.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E6F82AC8-64F9-4535-B5F9-00D1C0CEBACB@gmail.com>

I don't have too much trouble with ramps. The secret is to it is to jam the
ramps up under the wheel so they contact from the start. I typically have to
lift the front end to get the ramp under the valance, on all my cars.
They aren't great. I agree.

On Sep 16, 2012, at 5:36 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Hmm, I would have thought that there would be some sort of flange extending
> out from the front of the ramp that the front
> tires would roll over before
> they started 'uphill'.... Failing that, I wonder if you could duct tape a
> piece of 2X4 to the floor in front
> of the ramps to hold them in place?
>
> Dan D
> '76 B Driver
> '65 B Project
> Central NJ SA
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: "frankk12 at verizon.net" <frankk12 at verizon.net>
> To: MG List
> <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:32 PM
> Subject: [Mgs]
> MG Related - Sort Of
>
> I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes
> and working under the
> front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at
> a yard sale after I
> had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem
> with both sets is that
> when I position them in front of the front wheels on my
> shop floor and attempt
> to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I
> can use them is place
> them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so
> they don't move.
> Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for
> working under
> the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps
> from moving on
> my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
> Frank
> Krajewski
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 17:01:02 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 18:01:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
Message-ID: <47E5D820-1A6A-4FE7-9ACF-D45E4E080760@gmail.com>

So I installed my new mufflers this afternoon. I was expecting it to take a
lot longer than it did. But it only took about 45 minutes.

The car was hard starting afterward. Am I going to need to resync the carbs
etc, after a new muffler. I can't believe how much quieter the new are.  Turns
out he front seem of the front muffler was busted, the pipe going into the
rear muffler was completely busted, and the seam of the rear was blown out.

I guess I have actually back pressure now. The carbs aren't tuned right
anyway, but I just haven't had time to mess with them. And I took both
synchromesh's that I have down to my brother for his TR7. Why both, I'll never
know.

From strovato at optonline.net  Sun Sep 16 17:11:48 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 19:11:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <0MAG003U6TSEKFT0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

One approach is to attach something like a piece of carpet to the 
leading edge of the ramp.  The carpet extends outward so the tire 
drives onto it first.  With the weight of the car on the carpet, and 
the carpet attached to the ramp, the ramp can't really move.  I have 
even heard of this being done with just a piece of rope attached to the ramp.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 04:32 PM 9/16/2012, frankk12 at verizon.net wrote:
>I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
>front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after I
>had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is that
>when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and attempt
>to drive up on them they slide forward.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Sep 16 18:13:46 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 19:13:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <0MAG003U6TSEKFT0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<0MAG003U6TSEKFT0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <201209170016.q8H0GI9R010257@nlpi155.prodigy.net>

You're getting close.  Solution is to attach a carpet runner to the 
leading edge of the ramp.  But the carpet runner needs to be as long 
as the wheelbase of the car, so the rear wheel runs onto the carpet 
before the front wheel hits the ramp.  --  You can also place a board 
on the floor in line with the ramp, one end of the board against the 
back wall of the garage and the ramp pushed up against the other end 
of the board.


At 07:11 PM 9/16/2012 -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
>One approach is to attach something like a piece of carpet to the 
>leading edge of the ramp.  The carpet extends outward so the tire 
>drives onto it first.  With the weight of the car on the carpet, and 
>the carpet attached to the ramp, the ramp can't really move.  I have 
>even heard of this being done with just a piece of rope attached to the ramp.
>....


>At 04:32 PM 9/16/2012, frankk12 at verizon.net wrote:
>>I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
>>front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after I
>>had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both 
>>sets is that
>>when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor 
>>and attempt
>>to drive up on them they slide forward.

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Sun Sep 16 18:37:12 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 20:37:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1343.1347840801.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1343.1347840801.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <FC013CEE-F98A-4B25-AA34-2B3410A6642D@mgcarclub.com>

While I also use a jack with wood blocks and stands, I highly  
recommend a piece of carpet underneath the whole car. I think it would  
hold the ramps in place but you have to try it for yourself. For those  
of us without a lift (most of us?) I don't think there is anything  
much better than working on a carpeted floor. The season is also  
approaching when some one of your neighbors (or yourself) will be  
getting new carpet for the holidays, so it's free too.

On Sep 16, 2012, at 8:13 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> You're getting close.  Solution is to attach a carpet runner to the  
> leading edge of the ramp.  But the carpet runner needs to be as long  
> as the wheelbase of the car, so the rear wheel runs onto the carpet  
> before the front wheel hits the ramp.  --  You can also place a  
> board on the floor in line with the ramp, one end of the board  
> against the back wall of the garage and the ramp pushed up against  
> the other end of the board.
>
>
> At 07:11 PM 9/16/2012 -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
>> One approach is to attach something like a piece of carpet to the  
>> leading edge of the ramp.  The carpet extends outward so the tire  
>> drives onto it first.  With the weight of the car on the carpet,  
>> and the carpet attached to the ramp, the ramp can't really move.  I  
>> have even heard of this being done with just a piece of rope  
>> attached to the ramp.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Sep 17 01:35:54 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:35:54 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
References: <47E5D820-1A6A-4FE7-9ACF-D45E4E080760@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <11F5054377194EC1B2854612CF597CB7@paul>

Recheck what you did, and that you didn't knock something out of kilter 
along the way.  Unless you adjusted your carbs to suit your knackered 
exhaust, then they shouldn't need readjusting now, and if you did, well, 
that explains why they need readjusting now.  It is possible that the new 
exhaust 'restriction' is affecting the breathing, but I wouldn't expect it 
to be that much.  If you know the carbs are out then you should be putting 
them right anyway, not asking us if you need to!  And I presume you mean 
'synchronisers' not 'synchromeshes'.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The car was hard starting afterward. Am I going to need to resync the 
> carbs
> etc, after a new muffler. 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Sep 17 01:43:45 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:43:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <31CF385E171D4C02AEDB7FB82EE8BC9B@paul>

Mine, and the jack and axle stands were fine on my old knackered tarmac 
drive as they just dug in.  But I'm not allowed to use them on the new 
tarmac drive, and the ramps skid on the smooth painted floor of the 
(double-length, single-width) garage.  I have a section of about a yard of 
rougher concrete where they can be used but it is in the narrow garage 
entrance with little room to squeeze past the car in that location, and it 
was a pain servicing three cars this year.  So I bought a set of full-length 
ramps at a fraction of their original price from a pal of a pal who has 
invested in a four-post hoist - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ramps.htm

These are QwikLift, who I noticed went out of business immediately after I 
committed to buy them, hope it wasn't for safety issues!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
> front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after 
> I
> had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is 
> that
> when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and 
> attempt
> to drive up on them they slide forward. 

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Mon Sep 17 06:18:53 2012
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 13:18:53 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Brake Calipers
Message-ID: <A66F63B4D6364D86A1C38FD59BF31C95@TomVistaPC>

Hi Guys, what's the general consensus on painting the front brake calipers on
an MGA1600?

I'm in the middle of a full rebuild and currently shot blasting and painting
the front suspension. Were the front calipers originally painted or plated?

Many thanks

Tom

MGA 1600 MkI
AH3000 MkIII BJ8
Classic Mini Park Lane

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 07:25:47 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:25:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
In-Reply-To: <11F5054377194EC1B2854612CF597CB7@paul>
References: <47E5D820-1A6A-4FE7-9ACF-D45E4E080760@gmail.com>
	<11F5054377194EC1B2854612CF597CB7@paul>
Message-ID: <FC6F1ED5-F355-4BDF-A09F-A6F5F8B92B5A@gmail.com>

I didn't write that well.

The carbs are synch'd and run well, but are a bit hard to get started. I do
get about 25mpg (US). So I believe it's pretty close. But I just think that I
could get it to start a little easier.

My question really was, could changing the exhaust cause issues like this, or
is it more likely that I knocked something out of kilter.

And yes, synchronizer not synchromesh.

On Sep 17, 2012, at 2:35 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

> Recheck what you did, and that you didn't knock something out of kilter
along the way.  Unless you adjusted your carbs to suit your knackered exhaust,
then they shouldn't need readjusting now, and if you did, well, that explains
why they need readjusting now.  It is possible that the new exhaust
'restriction' is affecting the breathing, but I wouldn't expect it to be that
much.  If you know the carbs are out then you should be putting them right
anyway, not asking us if you need to!  And I presume you mean 'synchronisers'
not 'synchromeshes'.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> The car was hard starting afterward. Am I going to need to resync the
carbs
>> etc, after a new muffler.

From pchast at francomm.com  Mon Sep 17 07:38:39 2012
From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:38:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
In-Reply-To: <FC6F1ED5-F355-4BDF-A09F-A6F5F8B92B5A@gmail.com>
References: <47E5D820-1A6A-4FE7-9ACF-D45E4E080760@gmail.com>
	<11F5054377194EC1B2854612CF597CB7@paul>
	<FC6F1ED5-F355-4BDF-A09F-A6F5F8B92B5A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <op.wkr76p0bsjevdj@pete200>

Change the air flow is to change the mixture.
Quieter is often less flow and suggests lean out the fuel flow.



On Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:25:47 -0400, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> I didn't write that well.
>
> The carbs are synch'd and run well, but are a bit hard to get started. I  
> do
> get about 25mpg (US). So I believe it's pretty close. But I just think  
> that I
> could get it to start a little easier.
>
> My question really was, could changing the exhaust cause issues like  
> this, or
> is it more likely that I knocked something out of kilter.
>
> And yes, synchronizer not synchromesh.
>
> On Sep 17, 2012, at 2:35 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>
>> Recheck what you did, and that you didn't knock something out of kilter
> along the way.  Unless you adjusted your carbs to suit your knackered  
> exhaust,
> then they shouldn't need readjusting now, and if you did, well, that  
> explains
> why they need readjusting now.  It is possible that the new exhaust
> 'restriction' is affecting the breathing, but I wouldn't expect it to be  
> that
> much.  If you know the carbs are out then you should be putting them  
> right
> anyway, not asking us if you need to!  And I presume you mean  
> 'synchronisers'
> not 'synchromeshes'.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> The car was hard starting afterward. Am I going to need to resync the
> carbs
>>> etc, after a new muffler.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com


-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Sep 17 07:46:34 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:46:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Selling autos on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <518B87C8818D42BD8C95561BF54C1DE4@Spitfire>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73307C@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
	<518B87C8818D42BD8C95561BF54C1DE4@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <E1TDbqQ-00076l-AV@beta.look.ca>

Dave,

Getting cash in the bank does not save you from scammers.  Banks post 
your "purchaser's" cheque to your account - so you reckon you have 
the cash.  But the bank can take up to three weeks to clear the 
cheque with the "purchaser's" bank.  They then find the cheque is a 
phony.............so they deduct the cash from your account 
!  OUCH.  The only way is to get your bank that THEY have got the 
money against the cheque.  In Canada a US cheque will usually take 3 
weeks to clear.   Of course, the best way is get the purchaser to use PayPal



At 11:49 AM 9/16/2012 -0500, Dave wrote:
>I have listed and sold vehicles on ebay.  whenever I list anything, 
>I always put in something to the effect:  scammers don't bother - 
>this item is not going anywhere until my bank assures me the cash is 
>in my account.
>
>that has so far prevented those kinds of experiences.
>
>most recently I listed a vehicle (72 VW convertible that I had run 
>across being sold by a friend of a friend way too cheap) and I got a 
>call from arizona (I'm in dallas).  he was offering to make the 
>deposit via paypal, and was going to bring me the cash if I would 
>take down the listing.  he paypal'd me the $$ so I was still ahead 
>taking down the listing.  he brought me cash a few days later and 
>the car is now in arizona.  I was skeptical and careful.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Sep 17 08:15:58 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 15:15:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
References: <47E5D820-1A6A-4FE7-9ACF-D45E4E080760@gmail.com>
	<11F5054377194EC1B2854612CF597CB7@paul>
	<FC6F1ED5-F355-4BDF-A09F-A6F5F8B92B5A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <648B69081164471D856FA5D02574D7F9@paul>

In my experience changing the breathing i.e. air filters and exhaust will 
affect mixture *through the throttle range* i.e. you may well get it spot on 
at idle but with a freer flowing engine find that you get flat spots at a 
wider throttle opening, I had to go for 'richer' needles on my V8 with these 
two things modified (by a PO I hasten to add).  The corollary of that is 
with a more restrictive setup it could get richer through the range, but 
should still be easy to set up correctly for idle.  At idle (and by 
implication starting) changing the restriction of intake and exhaust has 
negligible effect, unless there is a massive vacuum leak in the intake or 
severely choked exhaust.  Hard starting when cold could be over-rich if the 
weather is very warm, or not rich enough if it is cold.  Hard starting from 
hot is usually over rich.  In both cases that's if mixture *is* the problem, 
there can be other reasons of course.  What is your ambient temp currently, 
do you use the choke, and how much?  If it's warm, and you habitually pull 
the choke out fully to start with a 'cold' engine, try pulling it half way. 
After checking/adjusting the mixture with the lifting pins (or whatever) 
first of course.  If you are confident they are balanced, then only adjust 
both carbs by the same amount in the same direction.  If you find the 
lifting pins give different results for the two carbs then they will have to 
be set up from scratch.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
The carbs are synch'd and run well, but are a bit hard to get started. I do 
get about 25mpg (US). So I believe it's pretty close. But I just think that 
I could get it to start a little easier.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 17 09:33:49 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:33:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <31CF385E171D4C02AEDB7FB82EE8BC9B@paul>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<31CF385E171D4C02AEDB7FB82EE8BC9B@paul>
Message-ID: <1347896029.48051.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Oh, those are really nice, Paul.... How does one raise the front end once the
car is on them?

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: PaulHunt73
<paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
To: frankk12 at verizon.net; MG List
<mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 3:43 AM
Subject: Re:
[Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
 
Mine, and the jack and axle stands were fine on
my old knackered tarmac drive as they just dug in.  But I'm not allowed to use
them on the new tarmac drive, and the ramps skid on the smooth painted floor
of the (double-length, single-width) garage.  I have a section of about a yard
of rougher concrete where they can be used but it is in the narrow garage
entrance with little room to squeeze past the car in that location, and it was
a pain servicing three cars this year.  So I bought a set of full-length ramps
at a fraction of their original price from a pal of a pal who has invested in
a four-post hoist - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ramps.htm

These are QwikLift,
who I noticed went out of business immediately after I committed to buy them,
hope it wasn't for safety issues!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I
purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
>
front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after I
>
had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is that
> when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and
attempt
> to drive up on them they slide forward.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Sep 17 10:01:29 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:01:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<31CF385E171D4C02AEDB7FB82EE8BC9B@paul>
	<1347896029.48051.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <10257BBB12814712BFCB6E82D1338838@paul>

Jack under the curvy tube. That pivots up so the jack can get under it to
raise, then down so the car can drive on and off over it.  From the angle of
the last one it looks like it would pass over it anyway, but I haven't tried
that!

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dan DiBiase
  To: PaulHunt73 ; frankk12 at verizon.net ; MG List
  Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 4:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of


  Oh, those are really nice, Paul.... How does one raise the front end once
the car is on them?

  Dan D
  '76 B Driver
  '65 B Project
  Central NJ USA






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
  To: frankk12 at verizon.net; MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 3:43 AM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of


  Mine, and the jack and axle stands were fine on my old knackered tarmac
drive as they just dug in.  But I'm not allowed to use them on the new tarmac
drive, and the ramps skid on the smooth painted floor of the (double-length,
single-width) garage.  I have a section of about a yard of rougher concrete
where they can be used but it is in the narrow garage entrance with little
room to squeeze past the car in that location, and it was a pain servicing
three cars this year.  So I bought a set of full-length ramps at a fraction of
their original price from a pal of a pal who has invested in a four-post hoist
- http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ramps.htm

  These are QwikLift, who I noticed went out of business immediately after I
committed to buy them, hope it wasn't for safety issues!

  PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  > I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under
the
  > front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after
I
  > had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is
that
  > when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and
attempt
  > to drive up on them they slide forward.
  _______________________________________________

  Mgs at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Sep 17 10:37:50 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 11:37:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Selling autos on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <E1TDbqQ-00076l-AV@beta.look.ca>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73307C@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
	<518B87C8818D42BD8C95561BF54C1DE4@Spitfire>
	<E1TDbqQ-00076l-AV@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <5A7D557932B64A75A77D092AAE9C13E4@Spitfire>

I am not that naive.  there is a big difference between check posted and 
cash actually there.

if you look again - what I said was "the bank assures me that the cash is in 
my account."  not that a check has been deposited

-----Original Message----- 
From: Barrie Robinson
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 8:46 AM
To: Dave ; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling autos on Ebay

Dave,

Getting cash in the bank does not save you from scammers.  Banks post
your "purchaser's" cheque to your account - so you reckon you have
the cash.  But the bank can take up to three weeks to clear the
cheque with the "purchaser's" bank.  They then find the cheque is a
phony.............so they deduct the cash from your account
!  OUCH.  The only way is to get your bank that THEY have got the
money against the cheque.  In Canada a US cheque will usually take 3
weeks to clear.   Of course, the best way is get the purchaser to use PayPal



At 11:49 AM 9/16/2012 -0500, Dave wrote:
>I have listed and sold vehicles on ebay.  whenever I list anything, I 
>always put in something to the effect:  scammers don't bother - this item 
>is not going anywhere until my bank assures me the cash is in my account.
>
>that has so far prevented those kinds of experiences.
>
>most recently I listed a vehicle (72 VW convertible that I had run across 
>being sold by a friend of a friend way too cheap) and I got a call from 
>arizona (I'm in dallas).  he was offering to make the deposit via paypal, 
>and was going to bring me the cash if I would take down the listing.  he 
>paypal'd me the $$ so I was still ahead taking down the listing.  he 
>brought me cash a few days later and the car is now in arizona.  I was 
>skeptical and careful. 

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Sep 17 08:34:38 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 10:34:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <FC013CEE-F98A-4B25-AA34-2B3410A6642D@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.1343.1347840801.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<FC013CEE-F98A-4B25-AA34-2B3410A6642D@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <E1TDfd5-0007Kw-5b@iota.look.ca>

Allen,

You know you are damn right!  Putting carpet down is brilliant.  I 
really get very cold working on my polished marble floors.  But such 
floors do have an advantage - they keep the white wine colder 
longer.   Mind you I could always get the maid to keep topping up my 
glass, although she is not too keen on doing that.......something 
about her uniform having such a short skirt.



At 08:37 PM 9/16/2012 -0400, Allen Hess wrote:
>While I also use a jack with wood blocks and stands, I highly
>recommend a piece of carpet underneath the whole car. I think it would
>hold the ramps in place but you have to try it for yourself. For those
>of us without a lift (most of us?) I don't think there is anything
>much better than working on a carpeted floor. The season is also
>approaching when some one of your neighbors (or yourself) will be
>getting new carpet for the holidays, so it's free too.
>
>On Sep 16, 2012, at 8:13 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> > You're getting close.  Solution is to attach a carpet runner to the
> > leading edge of the ramp.  But the carpet runner needs to be as long
> > as the wheelbase of the car, so the rear wheel runs onto the carpet
> > before the front wheel hits the ramp.  --  You can also place a
> > board on the floor in line with the ramp, one end of the board
> > against the back wall of the garage and the ramp pushed up against
> > the other end of the board.
> >
> >
> > At 07:11 PM 9/16/2012 -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
> >> One approach is to attach something like a piece of carpet to the
> >> leading edge of the ramp.  The carpet extends outward so the tire
> >> drives onto it first.  With the weight of the car on the carpet,
> >> and the carpet attached to the ramp, the ramp can't really move.  I
> >> have even heard of this being done with just a piece of rope
> >> attached to the ramp.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From strovato at optonline.net  Mon Sep 17 12:53:15 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 14:53:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <E1TDfd5-0007Kw-5b@iota.look.ca>
References: <mailman.1343.1347840801.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<FC013CEE-F98A-4B25-AA34-2B3410A6642D@mgcarclub.com>
	<E1TDfd5-0007Kw-5b@iota.look.ca>
Message-ID: <0MAI00F8UCIOFOM0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

My concern with carpet in a garage is fire safety.  Any garage with 
MGs is going to involve oil drips.  Then park a nice hot exhaust over 
it.  Possibly even a car with a catalytic converter that is even 
hotter.  Doesn't sound like the safest scenario to me.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 10:34 AM 9/17/2012, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>Allen,
>
>You know you are damn right!  Putting carpet down is brilliant.

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Sep 17 13:03:52 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 12:03:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <0MAI00F8UCIOFOM0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net>

Yeah, that and general maintenance. If all you do is park a late-model car
in it, and store kiddy toys, fine. But if you have any kind of workbench
where you generate sawdust, metal filings, or solvent splashes, a carpet
quickly becomes a real mess.

on 9/17/12 11:53 AM, Steven Trovato at strovato at optonline.net wrote:

> My concern with carpet in a garage is fire safety.  Any garage with
> MGs is going to involve oil drips.  Then park a nice hot exhaust over
> it.  Possibly even a car with a catalytic converter that is even
> hotter.  Doesn't sound like the safest scenario to me.
> 
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato at optonline.net
> 
> At 10:34 AM 9/17/2012, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>> Allen,
>> 
>> You know you are damn right!  Putting carpet down is brilliant.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Mon Sep 17 13:15:47 2012
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 15:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
References: <mailman.1343.1347840801.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<FC013CEE-F98A-4B25-AA34-2B3410A6642D@mgcarclub.com>
	<E1TDfd5-0007Kw-5b@iota.look.ca>
	<0MAI00F8UCIOFOM0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <69362B791B574AD186C93EF344EDEA8F@frankdcczr6l6k>

Good point. I do have carpets under several of my cars but not in the floor 
work area of my shop as it makes too difficult to roll the floor jjack 
around on it. The carpet is there primarily as a moistire barrier.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steven Trovato" <strovato at optonline.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of


> My concern with carpet in a garage is fire safety.  Any garage with MGs is 
> going to involve oil drips.  Then park a nice hot exhaust over it. 
> Possibly even a car with a catalytic converter that is even hotter. 
> Doesn't sound like the safest scenario to me.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato at optonline.net
>
> At 10:34 AM 9/17/2012, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>>Allen,
>>
>>You know you are damn right!  Putting carpet down is brilliant.
> _______________________________________________

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Mon Sep 17 16:42:40 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:42:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <007c01cd9525$befe0720$3cfa1560$@net>

I bought a cheap Yoga matt at wal-mart and cut it in half one piece under
each ramp

Chad
'72 B Rdstr

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of frankk12 at verizon.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:32 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of

I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after I
had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is
that when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor and
attempt to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I can use them
is place them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so they don't
move.
Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for working under
the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps from moving
on my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
Frank Krajewski
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Mon Sep 17 19:38:35 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 20:38:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
Message-ID: <5057D09B.40908@comcast.net>

I've gotten into the habit of synching not just the idle but the fast 
idle as well. I've run across a number of cars recently that the regular 
linkage was spot on and the choke linkage was way out of whack. Check 
that when you pull the choke both jets are moving about the same 
distance. Thousandths of an inch here aren't important. If they are 
within 1/16" on full choke  that should be close enough. And make sure 
the jets aren't lowered while you're on fast idle alone. As you let the 
choke in, the jets should find home before the fast idle screws leave 
the cam and while they're on the cam they should be in synch. I hope 
that all makes sense. Had a B in a few weeks ago that had a screwed up 
choke linkage on the back carb to the point that there was a good 1/4" 
difference between the jet depths on full choke.

That can make a difference on cold running. The only other thing I can 
think of that would affect cold starts is valve adjustment. If one or 
two valves are on the edge they might be opening fine when hot but not 
so much when cold. That's my two cents worth and I can't find a cent key 
on my computer. What good is this thing?

Glenn

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:25:47 -0500
From: Paul Root<ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: "PaulHunt73"<paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
Cc: MG List<mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] new muffler
Message-ID:<FC6F1ED5-F355-4BDF-A09F-A6F5F8B92B5A at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I didn't write that well.

The carbs are synch'd and run well, but are a bit hard to get started. I do
get about 25mpg (US). So I believe it's pretty close. But I just think that I
could get it to start a little easier.

My question really was, could changing the exhaust cause issues like this, or
is it more likely that I knocked something out of kilter.

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Mon Sep 17 20:15:09 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 21:15:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <6BA59C0633C3437C8F53984FB18EB68A@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <8373CAC18E5E43919EE0F2F73FA12602@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<007c01cd9525$befe0720$3cfa1560$@net>
	<6BA59C0633C3437C8F53984FB18EB68A@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <000001cd9543$6dc4e4a0$494eade0$@net>

It Sure did and it has held up. I thought the ramps might cut through it but
they haven't and they work great.  My garage floor is sealed and is very
slick.  The ramps leave an imprint in the matt, but it goes away by the next
time I use them.  I actually got the ramps for my camaro, so much heavier
than the B.

-----Original Message-----
From: frankk12 at verizon.net [mailto:frankk12 at verizon.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:48 PM
To: Chad
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of

Great idea. Did it work?
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chad" <mgb72 at airmail.net>
To: <frankk12 at verizon.net>; "'MG List'" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:42 PM
Subject: RE: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of


>I bought a cheap Yoga matt at wal-mart and cut it in half one piece under
> each ramp
>
> Chad
> '72 B Rdstr
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of frankk12 at verizon.net
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:32 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] MG Related - Sort Of
>
> I purchased two sets of ramps to use for oil changes and working under the
> front end of my MGBs. One set is steel and I got them at a yard sale after

> I
> had bought a hard plastic set at Wal Mart.  The problem with both sets is
> that when I position them in front of the front wheels on my shop floor 
> and
> attempt to drive up on them they slide forward. The only way I can use 
> them
> is place them in my gravel driveway which provides enough grip so they 
> don't
> move.
> Problem is that I am now forced to lay in the dirt/gravel for working 
> under
> the car and doing oil changes. Is there a way to keep the ramps from 
> moving
> on my shop floor when I attempt to drive my car up on them?
> Frank Krajewski
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 17 20:29:32 2012
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 21:29:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler - cent key
In-Reply-To: <5057D09B.40908@comcast.net>
References: <5057D09B.40908@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5057DC8C.80102@sbcglobal.net>

Glenn,

You won't find the cent key on your keyboard but it is there. With a 
Windows PC, hold down the "Alt" key, type 0162 on the numeric keypad 
then release the "Alt" key.   These are ASCII codes and there are a 
bunch of them.  The Pound sign is ALT + 0163.  Of course,  Macs do it 
their own way.

Charles Hill

On 9/17/2012 8:38 PM, Glenn Schnittke wrote:
>
>
> That can make a difference on cold running. The only other thing I can 
> think of that would affect cold starts is valve adjustment. If one or 
> two valves are on the edge they might be opening fine when hot but not 
> so much when cold. That's my two cents worth and I can't find a cent 
> key on my computer. What good is this thing?
>
> Glenn

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Sep 17 22:30:40 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 23:30:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <5057F8F0.4070701@ktc.com>

Just gotta comment:

If I'm changing oil or doing other routine maintenance, I do it outside 
in the driveway, which is blacktop.  If I mean to do more than that - 
last thing was replacing brake MC  and bleeding all 4 corners - I do it 
in the garage, which is sealed concrete.  In that case I had the car up 
on 4 jack stands.  I scooted around on a creeper then.  What a PITA that 
job was!

Ennyhoo, by the time I'd jack around with ramps I can have the car up on 
4 jack stands.  Lift the front, put the jack stands; lift the rear, put 
the jack stands; remove the jack and go after what you had in 
mind........  Oh, and what you had in mind doing dictates where you 
locate the jack stands........

CR

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Sep 17 22:47:41 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 23:47:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
In-Reply-To: <648B69081164471D856FA5D02574D7F9@paul>
References: <47E5D820-1A6A-4FE7-9ACF-D45E4E080760@gmail.com>
	<11F5054377194EC1B2854612CF597CB7@paul>
	<FC6F1ED5-F355-4BDF-A09F-A6F5F8B92B5A@gmail.com>
	<648B69081164471D856FA5D02574D7F9@paul>
Message-ID: <5057FCED.5080606@ktc.com>

Um, when I built the engine in the 1970 B  that I had  (sorry I sold 
it)  I had to change the needles in the HS4s so as to richen the 
midrange.  AIR, there were also different jets for hipro engines. You 
sort of juggled jets & needles around.  If you got it right, it pulled 
like a train.  Had a Crane cam in that one.  Ran good.

CR
On 9/17/2012 9:15 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> In my experience changing the breathing i.e. air filters and exhaust 
> will affect mixture *through the throttle range* i.e. you may well get 
> it spot on at idle but with a freer flowing engine find that you get 
> flat spots at a wider throttle opening, I had to go for 'richer' 
> needles on my V8 with these two things modified (by a PO I hasten to 
> add). 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Sep 18 00:51:31 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 07:51:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Selling autos on Ebay
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73307C@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu><518B87C8818D42BD8C95561BF54C1DE4@Spitfire><E1TDbqQ-00076l-AV@beta.look.ca>
	<5A7D557932B64A75A77D092AAE9C13E4@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <15AC2096988B48E4920FABE24948E31B@paul>

I wouldn't rely on a typical bank call-centre telling you that.  The typical 
Joe or Joanne there probably doesn't realise that even though the deposit is 
showing in your account, and available to draw (which is the next stage), it 
could still be clawed back.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> if you look again - what I said was "the bank assures me that the cash is 
> in my account."  not that a check has been deposited

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Sep 18 01:04:45 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 08:04:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
References: <mailman.1343.1347840801.3158.mgs@autox.team.net><FC013CEE-F98A-4B25-AA34-2B3410A6642D@mgcarclub.com><E1TDfd5-0007Kw-5b@iota.look.ca>
	<0MAI00F8UCIOFOM0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <54E6EC6D7256425A83190D24A40369CA@paul>

Roll it out as and when you need it, I have trays under the bits that drip 
anyway.  I've got carpet permanently in front of the work bench and I 
regularly sweep it - 'er indoors refuses to vacuum it when she's doing the 
rest of the house, for some reason ...

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My concern with carpet in a garage is fire safety.  Any garage with MGs is 
> going to involve oil drips.  Then park a nice hot exhaust over it. 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Sep 18 01:23:21 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 08:23:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
References: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net> <5057F8F0.4070701@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>

A car raised on four axle stands (are they the same as jack stands?) is 
*very* dangerous, it is relatively easy to pull the car over as their base 
is usually quite a bit smaller than their height in use.  Only ever use two 
jack stands with two short ramps (short of full length ramps or a lift).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  In that case I had the car up on 4 jack stands. 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Sep 18 01:33:04 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 08:33:04 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] new muffler
References: <5057D09B.40908@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BADBF68A9CA347A7BB9BB8FE2785EB5B@paul>

Balancing specifically at fast idle isn't really necessary as that is only 
used when warming up.  But checking they are balanced off-idle by opening 
the throttle a little and readjusting the synchronising tool *is* essential, 
for obvious reasons. Fast idle opens the butterflies differently to the 
throttle cable.

There should be about 1/2" of choke cable movement giving a fast-idle speed 
of about 1100-1200 rpm with a *warm* engine before the jets start to move. 
You can't see the enrichment valve on an HIF of course, but there should be 
arrows on the fast idle cams that when positioned under the fast-idle screws 
indicate that enrichment is just about to start.  You are supposed to set 
the fast-idle revs there, but on my V8 at least that gives far too high an 
idle when there is enrichment as well so I have them adjusted by ear rather 
than revs and arrows.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I've gotten into the habit of synching not just the idle but the fast idle 
> as well. 

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Sep 18 06:37:45 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 07:37:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>
References: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net> <5057F8F0.4070701@ktc.com>
	<8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>
Message-ID: <E2D55F996CD24E6CBCD73BC5F170E3C7@Spitfire>

I totally disagree.  I always pull at the car to ensure stability when I 
have it on 2 or 4 stands.  but if they are on concrete, well positioned, and 
relatively level, they are *safe*

there is always danger when working on cars.  think safety!

-----Original Message----- 
From: PaulHunt73
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 2:23 AM
To: ccrobins at ktc.com ; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of

A car raised on four axle stands (are they the same as jack stands?) is
*very* dangerous, it is relatively easy to pull the car over as their base
is usually quite a bit smaller than their height in use.  Only ever use two
jack stands with two short ramps (short of full length ramps or a lift).

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Sep 18 07:21:51 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 08:21:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>
References: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net> <5057F8F0.4070701@ktc.com>
	<8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>
Message-ID: <5058756F.7060403@ktc.com>

All depends on where under the vehicle that you locate them.   Got a pic 
of an axle stand?

CR

On 9/18/2012 2:23 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> A car raised on four axle stands (are they the same as jack stands?) 
> is *very* dangerous, it is relatively easy to pull the car over as 
> their base is usually quite a bit smaller than their height in use.  
> Only ever use two jack stands with two short ramps (short of full 
> length ramps or a lift).
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> ...  In that case I had the car up on 4 jack stands. 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Sep 18 07:38:02 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 08:38:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <E2D55F996CD24E6CBCD73BC5F170E3C7@Spitfire>
References: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net> <5057F8F0.4070701@ktc.com>
	<8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>
	<E2D55F996CD24E6CBCD73BC5F170E3C7@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <5058793A.2040303@ktc.com>

The first time I had a car up on 4 stands I tried to knock it off of 
them by pushing on the car from various angles.  I concluded that it 
would take a mighty push to make it go over.

CR

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 18 08:16:28 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 10:16:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Don Pender
Message-ID: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca>

Does anyone have contact details for Don Pender?  He was into SU 
carbs and had a business which I think was called Penspeed.

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 18 08:44:00 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 10:44:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <0MAI00F8UCIOFOM0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <mailman.1343.1347840801.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<FC013CEE-F98A-4B25-AA34-2B3410A6642D@mgcarclub.com>
	<E1TDfd5-0007Kw-5b@iota.look.ca>
	<0MAI00F8UCIOFOM0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <E1TDzr4-0001Yi-9Z@beta.look.ca>

Steve,

If you have a fire you get the butler to dash in with a shaken bottle 
of Dom Perignon and douse the flames.  This is, of course, after you 
have told the maid to run away (leaving the bottle of wine) so her 
skirt will not get wet.


At 02:53 PM 9/17/2012 -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
>My concern with carpet in a garage is fire safety.  Any garage with 
>MGs is going to involve oil drips.  Then park a nice hot exhaust 
>over it.  Possibly even a car with a catalytic converter that is 
>even hotter.  Doesn't sound like the safest scenario to me.
>
>-Steve Trovato
>strovato at optonline.net
>
>At 10:34 AM 9/17/2012, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>>Allen,
>>
>>You know you are damn right!  Putting carpet down is brilliant.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From don at napanet.net  Tue Sep 18 09:58:34 2012
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 08:58:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] =?iso-8859-1?q?Moss_Motors_buys_Al_Moss=92s_MG_TC?=
Message-ID: <mailman.1709.1347983756.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>

Interesting MG history as the Al Moss car ends up at Moss Motors.

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/09/17/moss-motors-buys-al-moss-mg-tc/?refer=news



------------------------------------------------------------------

Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1967 MGB
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars  

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 18 11:02:35 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 10:02:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] =?utf-8?q?Moss_Motors_buys_Al_Moss=E2=80=99s_MG_TC?=
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1709.1347983756.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1709.1347983756.3158.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1347987755.9825.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Very cool, and glad it is back where it belongs!

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B
Project
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: Don
<don at napanet.net>
To: mgs-autox.team.net <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday,
September 18, 2012 11:58 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors buys Al Mossbs MG TC
Interesting MG history as the Al Moss car ends up at Moss Motors.
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/09/17/moss-motors-buys-al-moss-mg-tc/
?refer=news
------------------------------------------------------------------

Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1967 MGB
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc.
Japanese carsB  
_______________________________________________
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual
donationB  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From bmcspares at aol.com  Tue Sep 18 11:20:14 2012
From: bmcspares at aol.com (bmcspares at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 13:20:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Don Pender
In-Reply-To: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <8CF63D8FFF65CBB-87C-2FC2@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>

Don died as few years ago due to a motorcycle accident.


Jon Nyhus
Glendale AZ



-----Original Message-----
From: Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca>
To: mgb-v8 <mgb-v8 at autox.team.net>; mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 18, 2012 8:38 am
Subject: [Mgs] Don Pender


Does anyone have contact details for Don Pender?  He was into SU
carbs and had a business which I think was called Penspeed.

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/bmcspares at aol.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Sep 19 01:44:37 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 08:44:37 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
References: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<5057F8F0.4070701@ktc.com><8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>
	<E2D55F996CD24E6CBCD73BC5F170E3C7@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <42B88CC956A9403CBE85F21719A414D1@paul>

RTFM.  Manufacturers instructions usually say DO NOT jack one end of the car 
when the other is already supported by axle stands, and DO NOT support the 
car just on four axle stands.

On your own head be it (pun not intended).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I totally disagree.  I always pull at the car to ensure stability when I 
>have it on 2 or 4 stands.  but if they are on concrete, well positioned, 
>and relatively level, they are *safe*

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Sep 19 05:50:04 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 06:50:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <42B88CC956A9403CBE85F21719A414D1@paul>
References: <CC7CC228.3EFD6%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<5057F8F0.4070701@ktc.com><8886C37DF7F34C489B6F3B8DAD4780C5@paul>
	<E2D55F996CD24E6CBCD73BC5F170E3C7@Spitfire>
	<42B88CC956A9403CBE85F21719A414D1@paul>
Message-ID: <74129C12A4984D46AC2452777DD16111@Spitfire>

the manufacturers are more interested in covering their rears than reality.

we all have our opinion.  been doing this for years and will keep on.

I am very concerned with safety, and will continue.

-----Original Message----- 
From: PaulHunt73
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 2:44 AM
To: Dave ; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of

RTFM.  Manufacturers instructions usually say DO NOT jack one end of the car
when the other is already supported by axle stands, and DO NOT support the
car just on four axle stands.

On your own head be it (pun not intended).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I totally disagree.  I always pull at the car to ensure stability when I 
>have it on 2 or 4 stands.  but if they are on concrete, well positioned, 
>and relatively level, they are *safe*

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep 19 08:30:06 2012
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 14:30:06 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>

Just made it to work, been driving my 64B as my seasonal daily driver (less so
in the winter, weather permitting). But this morning while stopped at a red
light, a car ran into the rear - a pretty fair impact so I'm guessing the car
was still traveling at maybe 10 mph. The bulk of the impact was on the
passenger side over-rider which was pushed into the body next to the gas tank
filler, leaving a fair indentation. Trunk appears undamaged but won't latch
shut. So it looks like a call to the other driver's insurance company, body
shop estimates. I'm not sure the procedure the body shop would or should use -
I see Moss has a complete bumper with over-riders as well as the back panel
piece, probably some welding involved to install it. I'm just checking to see
if anyone has suggestions or experiences on this type of damage which should
be somewhat common as far as body damage goes.


David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Sep 19 09:05:36 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 16:05:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <B23EDF1AE49D4677914251E81979973F@paul>

The bumpers are attached to the chassis rails, not the back panel, so you 
need to get underneath and see where the buckling has occurred that has 
allowed the overrider to deform the back panel - if the overrider had peen 
pushed back as a whole rather than simply the top being tilted over.  Unless 
the rear panel has obviously deformed so that the lock loop is no longer 
inline with the lock on the lid, it could have buckled the boot floor.  Even 
10mph is quite a shunt.  It depends on the insurance company, but some may 
well want to write it off with chassis rail damage.  In the UK that kind of 
damage would be repairable, if you bought the 'wreck' back out of the 
insurance payout.  Find out as soon as possible just what the score is, 
there have been cases where insurance companies have written cars off and 
sold them on before the owner has been advised.  Good luck.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... The bulk of the impact was on the
> passenger side over-rider which was pushed into the body next to the gas 
> tank
> filler, leaving a fair indentation. 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 19 09:10:26 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 10:10:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <5059E062.3070303@ktc.com>

Bummer!  Not sure about the quality of the Moss-supplied chrome 
bumpers.  It would be nice if someone who has seen them would comment.  
Some years ago I had my front bumper and overriders rechromed because I 
wasn't impressed with the after market pieces.

CR
On 9/19/2012 9:30 AM, Councill, David wrote:
> Just made it to work, been driving my 64B as my seasonal daily driver (less so
> in the winter, weather permitting). But this morning while stopped at a red
> light, a car ran into the rear - a pretty fair impact so I'm guessing the car
> was still traveling at maybe 10 mph.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 19 09:25:25 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 10:25:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>

Just wondering what auto insurance others are using on their classics.  
I just switched to Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of 
the low cost stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to 
my other insurer.

CR

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 19 09:34:12 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 08:34:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca> <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <1348068852.29912.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have Hagerty as well. No claims experience, however, but my $6,000
agreed-value policy for my '76 B costs me about $125/year here
in NJ.

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA




________________________________
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 11:25 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
Just wondering what auto insurance others are using on their classics.  I just
switched to Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of the low cost
stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to my other insurer.
CR
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Sep 19 09:35:35 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 15:35:35 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
Message-ID: <20120919.113535.2267.1@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

  My MGs have been insured with Hagerty for years, mostly because of the
reasonable premiums but also because of their reputation for square dealing.
Sad to say, I needed to file a claim with them for a fuel-line fire in my TD.
This happened late August.  I called on Monday. Wednesday an appraiser was
here. On Friday, a message was left that a check was to be cut and that the
check was not "full and final".  If concealed damage were found, they would
cover that also. Next Thursday, check was in hand. I am a satisfied customer.
This contrasts with my professional work, in which I dealt with property
damage claims frequently. For a company to send an adjuster in less than a
week was unheard of; then his arrival was just the beginning of chiseling and
weaseling, with assurance of continuing dissatisfaction.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 10:25:25 -0500

Just wondering what auto insurance others are using on their classics.
I just switched to Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of
the low cost stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to
my other insurer.

CR

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep 19 09:38:23 2012
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 15:38:23 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca> <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73F321@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>

I went with Hagerty for my 72B and 67BGT. They claim to be less restrictive on
usage and my cars need to be driven - so they sometimes get driven to work. I
also switched both cars to classic car license plates so they both have been
converted into the realm of "not for daily use". One of the other key
qualifiers for classic car insurance is that the cars need to be garaged when
not driven. So when I got my last addition, the 64B, I didn't have enough
garage space to add it on the Hagerty policy. And with regular
insurance/plates, I have no restrictions but its vulnerable on the insurance
side since it only has liability.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Charley & Peggy Robinson
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 9:25 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?

Just wondering what auto insurance others are using on their classics.
I just switched to Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of the
low cost stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to my other
insurer.

CR

From lundgren at byu.net  Wed Sep 19 09:51:24 2012
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 09:51:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <1348068852.29912.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca> <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
	<1348068852.29912.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5059E9FC.1060300@byu.net>

I had to file a claim a few years ago. They paid the agreed value for 
the car and canceled the policy. They called around my local area to see 
what any of the shops would pay for my injured car.  Then offered to let 
me buy it back from them at the highest bid.  I did.  Once I got it on 
road again, I was able to get it insured with them again.

No complaints.


On 09/19/2012 09:34 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> I have Hagerty as well. No claims experience, however, but my $6,000
> agreed-value policy for my '76 B costs me about $125/year here
> in NJ.
>
> Dan D
> '76 B Driver
> '65 B Project
> Central NJ USA
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 11:25 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
> Just wondering what auto insurance others are using on their classics.  I just
> switched to Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of the low cost
> stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to my other insurer.
> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 19 10:05:04 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 09:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca> <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <1348070704.47944.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>


> Just wondering what
auto insurance others are using on their classics.  I just 
> switched to
Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of the low 
> cost
stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to my other 
>
insurer.

I've had Hagerty for my 58 MGA since it was restored.  They didn't
make
a penny off me the first four or five years because I had a windshield
claim the first year and towing the third.  Rates never went up.  I've
been
very happy with them.

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Sep 19 09:59:04 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 10:59:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <5059E9FC.1060300@byu.net>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca>
	<5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com><1348068852.29912.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<5059E9FC.1060300@byu.net>
Message-ID: <D8FB0AF9F69B49BE820161ADD27FF0D0@Spitfire>

I used to have hagerty, and I guess I liked them.

but I had several claims inside of a two year period, after having no claims 
for 10? years before and so far 2 years after, and they canceled me.

their claim service is great; they always paid top dollar.  oh, well. 

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 19 12:56:48 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 11:56:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
In-Reply-To: <42B88CC956A9403CBE85F21719A414D1@paul>
Message-ID: <CC7F6380.3F13B%mvheim@sonic.net>

There is only an axle at one end, so I don't see how you can do this,
really. If they mean, do not support the car by 4 "sprung" points
simultaneously, I can understand that. It is very hard to find a sprung
point where you can fit a stand in the front, anyway. I usually use an
"unsprung" frame point -- either the bottom of the engine crossmember, or
the side frame rails.


on 9/19/12 12:44 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com wrote:

> RTFM.  Manufacturers instructions usually say DO NOT jack one end of the car
> when the other is already supported by axle stands, and DO NOT support the
> car just on four axle stands.
> 
> On your own head be it (pun not intended).
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I totally disagree.  I always pull at the car to ensure stability when I
>> have it on 2 or 4 stands.  but if they are on concrete, well positioned,
>> and relatively level, they are *safe*

> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 19 13:06:51 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 12:06:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <CC7F65DB.3F13D%mvheim@sonic.net>

Something similar happened to my other vintage daily driver back in July. It
isn't in the shop yet. When my MGB was backed into several years ago, it was
a similar story -- no body shop in the region was interested in even looking
at it. The insurance agency's "recommended" shops are only interested in
repairs that are "in the book" -- that is, late model cars for which the
hours and parts costs for every operation are spelled out in advance. In
both cases, the insurance adjuster was called in to work up an estimate in
order for them to cut a check. So good luck in finding a shop that is
willing to take on a "vintage" project. At least around here, you are pretty
much limited to "restorers" and "customizers" -- the plain auto body repair
shops want no part of you.


on 9/19/12 7:30 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> Just made it to work, been driving my 64B as my seasonal daily driver (less so
> in the winter, weather permitting). But this morning while stopped at a red
> light, a car ran into the rear - a pretty fair impact so I'm guessing the car
> was still traveling at maybe 10 mph. The bulk of the impact was on the
> passenger side over-rider which was pushed into the body next to the gas tank
> filler, leaving a fair indentation. Trunk appears undamaged but won't latch
> shut. So it looks like a call to the other driver's insurance company, body
> shop estimates. I'm not sure the procedure the body shop would or should use -
> I see Moss has a complete bumper with over-riders as well as the back panel
> piece, probably some welding involved to install it. I'm just checking to see
> if anyone has suggestions or experiences on this type of damage which should
> be somewhat common as far as body damage goes.
> 
> 
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B

> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 19 13:21:47 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 14:21:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
In-Reply-To: <B23EDF1AE49D4677914251E81979973F@paul>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
	<B23EDF1AE49D4677914251E81979973F@paul>
Message-ID: <505A1B4B.4090204@ktc.com>

That got me to wondering, so I went out and looked at my '69 B's rear 
bumper.  The overrider on the passenger side is partly to the left of & 
behind the gas tank filler cap.   The right edge of the overrider 
overlaps the left side of the gas cap.  If the overrider was tilted 
straight ahead it would contact the gas cap; it would have to be pushed 
or twisted to the left to miss the cap.  I don't know if the overriders 
on the '64 are narrower than mine or perhaps located a little 
differently but I suggest that the '64 be taken to a body shop right 
away in order to assess the damage.

CR

On 9/19/2012 10:05 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> The bumpers are attached to the chassis rails, not the back panel, so 
> you need to get underneath and see where the buckling has occurred 
> that has allowed the overrider to deform the back panel - if the 
> overrider had peen pushed back as a whole rather than simply the top 
> being tilted over.  Unless the rear panel has obviously deformed so 
> that the lock loop is no longer inline with the lock on the lid, it 
> could have buckled the boot floor.  Even 10mph is quite a shunt.  It 
> depends on the insurance company, but some may well want to write it 
> off with chassis rail damage.  In the UK that kind of damage would be 
> repairable, if you bought the 'wreck' back out of the insurance 
> payout.  Find out as soon as possible just what the score is, there 
> have been cases where insurance companies have written cars off and 
> sold them on before the owner has been advised.  Good luck.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> ... The bulk of the impact was on the
>> passenger side over-rider which was pushed into the body next to the 
>> gas tank
>> filler, leaving a fair indentation. 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep 19 13:38:21 2012
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 19:38:21 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
In-Reply-To: <505A1B4B.4090204@ktc.com>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
	<B23EDF1AE49D4677914251E81979973F@paul> <505A1B4B.4090204@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73F8A4@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>

After a few calls, I found that the lady who ran into me did notify her
insurance company. I notified mine too just in case (I thought I only had
liability but actually I have full coverage minus a $1000 deductible). Max
said there may be a problem finding a body shop to work on the car. This is a
relatively true statement, more so in a smaller populated area where I live.
But I took it to the one body shop my insurance company (USAA) recommended.
The shop wanted to know if I know where they could get a rear bumper so I
referred him to Moss. I l already looked it up and a full replacement with
over riders lists at $320. The other seriously damaged part is the back panel,
just to the left of the gas tank filler, which is pushed in maybe 1/2 - 1 inch
from the force on the over rider. The body guy said it would be better to
straighten out that part rather than weld in another piece. They gave me a
repair estimate - for $2400. So paperwork is in the process and maybe a repair
in the next several weeks to a month.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins at ktc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:22 PM
To: MG List
Cc: Councill, David
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended

That got me to wondering, so I went out and looked at my '69 B's rear bumper.
The overrider on the passenger side is partly to the left of &
behind the gas tank filler cap.   The right edge of the overrider
overlaps the left side of the gas cap.  If the overrider was tilted straight
ahead it would contact the gas cap; it would have to be pushed or twisted to
the left to miss the cap.  I don't know if the overriders on the '64 are
narrower than mine or perhaps located a little differently but I suggest that
the '64 be taken to a body shop right away in order to assess the damage.

CR

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 19 13:11:23 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 12:11:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73F321@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <CC7F66EB.3F141%mvheim@sonic.net>

I have to keep my cars on a "regular" policy because I don't have a late
model daily driver, and I don't have secured storage (only an open 2-car
carport). Plus, I need the freedom to drive either one anywhere as
necessary, since one or the other may be down for periodic maintenance.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
(other car: 1967 Plymouth Barracuda)

on 9/19/12 8:38 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> I went with Hagerty for my 72B and 67BGT. They claim to be less restrictive on
> usage and my cars need to be driven - so they sometimes get driven to work. I
> also switched both cars to classic car license plates so they both have been
> converted into the realm of "not for daily use". One of the other key
> qualifiers for classic car insurance is that the cars need to be garaged when
> not driven. So when I got my last addition, the 64B, I didn't have enough
> garage space to add it on the Hagerty policy. And with regular
> insurance/plates, I have no restrictions but its vulnerable on the insurance
> side since it only has liability.
> 
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Charley & Peggy Robinson
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 9:25 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
> 
> Just wondering what auto insurance others are using on their classics.
> I just switched to Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of the
> low cost stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to my other
> insurer.
> 
> CR

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Sep 19 13:53:17 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 14:53:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73F8A4@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
	<B23EDF1AE49D4677914251E81979973F@paul> <505A1B4B.4090204@ktc.com>
	<E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73F8A4@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <BB3D9B55-FDD0-41A4-B0BD-20436B4AEB79@gmail.com>

That's good news.

You don't mention anything so I think we were all assuming,  but are you ok?

Paul.

On Sep 19, 2012, at 2:38 PM, Councill, David wrote:

> After a few calls, I found that the lady who ran into me did notify her
> insurance company. I notified mine too just in case (I thought I only had
> liability but actually I have full coverage minus a $1000 deductible). Max
> said there may be a problem finding a body shop to work on the car. This is
a
> relatively true statement, more so in a smaller populated area where I
live.
> But I took it to the one body shop my insurance company (USAA) recommended.
> The shop wanted to know if I know where they could get a rear bumper so I
> referred him to Moss. I l already looked it up and a full replacement with
> over riders lists at $320. The other seriously damaged part is the back
panel,
> just to the left of the gas tank filler, which is pushed in maybe 1/2 - 1
inch
> from the force on the over rider. The body guy said it would be better to
> straighten out that part rather than weld in another piece. They gave me a
> repair estimate - for $2400. So paperwork is in the process and maybe a
repair
> in the next several weeks to a month.
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins at ktc.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:22 PM
> To: MG List
> Cc: Councill, David
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
>
> That got me to wondering, so I went out and looked at my '69 B's rear
bumper.
> The overrider on the passenger side is partly to the left of &
> behind the gas tank filler cap.   The right edge of the overrider
> overlaps the left side of the gas cap.  If the overrider was tilted
straight
> ahead it would contact the gas cap; it would have to be pushed or twisted
to
> the left to miss the cap.  I don't know if the overriders on the '64 are
> narrower than mine or perhaps located a little differently but I suggest
that
> the '64 be taken to a body shop right away in order to assess the damage.
>
> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 19 13:59:38 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 12:59:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73F8A4@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <CC7F723A.3F14E%mvheim@sonic.net>

You are probably better off in a smaller community, for this purpose. The
shop wants to get whatever business is available.

In the SF Bay Area, there are so many people with money, and so many bad
drivers, that the shops have all the business they need just handling late
model stuff. So not only are they not interested in "hassle" jobs, they
aren't trained or qualified to make estimates on anything that isn't covered
in the books.

Here's an interesting tidbit: I was talking to a restoration specialist, and
somehow the subject came up about the poor quality of paint on many new cars
-- that they often have "orange peel" right on the dealer's lot. This guy
claimed that they do it deliberately; or rather, that they don't do anything
to prevent it or fix it, because if they did accidentally put out a few cars
with perfect paint, then everyone would want them, and the others would sit
on the lots. He also claimed that the factory paint formulas in the repair
guides are designed to replicate the orange peel finish, so panel repairs
will match. That's why he never uses formulas. At any rate, that was his
story.



on 9/19/12 12:38 PM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> After a few calls, I found that the lady who ran into me did notify her
> insurance company. I notified mine too just in case (I thought I only had
> liability but actually I have full coverage minus a $1000 deductible). Max
> said there may be a problem finding a body shop to work on the car. This is a
> relatively true statement, more so in a smaller populated area where I live.
> But I took it to the one body shop my insurance company (USAA) recommended.
> The shop wanted to know if I know where they could get a rear bumper so I
> referred him to Moss. I l already looked it up and a full replacement with
> over riders lists at $320. The other seriously damaged part is the back panel,
> just to the left of the gas tank filler, which is pushed in maybe 1/2 - 1 inch
> from the force on the over rider. The body guy said it would be better to
> straighten out that part rather than weld in another piece. They gave me a
> repair estimate - for $2400. So paperwork is in the process and maybe a repair
> in the next several weeks to a month.
> 
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins at ktc.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:22 PM
> To: MG List
> Cc: Councill, David
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
> 
> That got me to wondering, so I went out and looked at my '69 B's rear bumper.
> The overrider on the passenger side is partly to the left of &
> behind the gas tank filler cap.   The right edge of the overrider
> overlaps the left side of the gas cap.  If the overrider was tilted straight
> ahead it would contact the gas cap; it would have to be pushed or twisted to
> the left to miss the cap.  I don't know if the overriders on the '64 are
> narrower than mine or perhaps located a little differently but I suggest that
> the '64 be taken to a body shop right away in order to assess the damage.
> 
> CR


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From allan.thompson at ntlworld.com  Wed Sep 19 14:06:01 2012
From: allan.thompson at ntlworld.com (Thompson Allan)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 16:06:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance
Message-ID: <CABrxh4EZYtec1SMTpOtCmmuZwLVzYKp1Nqsa3ysAacd5=wA9_Q@mail.gmail.com>

I have Hagerty.

Never had a problem - but never had a claim either!

Rates are very reasonable.

Allan

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Wed Sep 19 14:31:31 2012
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 16:31:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <1348068852.29912.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <E1TDzr3-0001Yi-P2@beta.look.ca> <5059E3E5.2010407@ktc.com>
	<1348068852.29912.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C9B30F3BC90C45F086496C6F334A52F5@stargate>

I too have Hagerty and had a windshield claim on my '67 BGT (since sold) 
about 18 months ago.  They paid it based upon the quote that I got, no 
questions asked, and my rates since have not increased a bit.
I would recommend them.

Gordie Bird
'62 MGA


> Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
> Just wondering what auto insurance others are using on their classics.  I 
> just
> switched to Hagerty insurance for my  '69 MGB, mainly because of the low 
> cost
> stated-value collision & comprehensive coverage compared to my other 
> insurer.
> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep 19 14:33:37 2012
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 20:33:37 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
In-Reply-To: <BB3D9B55-FDD0-41A4-B0BD-20436B4AEB79@gmail.com>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73E11C@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
	<B23EDF1AE49D4677914251E81979973F@paul> <505A1B4B.4090204@ktc.com>
	<E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F73F8A4@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>
	<BB3D9B55-FDD0-41A4-B0BD-20436B4AEB79@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA4F740A90@BILEXMB02.msubillings.edu>

I am still standing and coherent. The problem is that vintage cars, such as
the Mk1 MGBs, do not have the headrests that are now federally mandated (USA).
So any impact from the rear, particularly unexpected ones, will have a
whiplash effect. But so far, in that respect, I am not showing any lingering
effects and that is the only part of me that would or could be affected and if
so, it should still be minor. Time will tell though as its only been about
seven hours since impact. But I'm okay, just a bit depressed over the damage.



-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Root [mailto:ptroot at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Paul Root
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:53 PM
To: Councill, David
Cc: ccrobins at ktc.com; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended

That's good news.

You don't mention anything so I think we were all assuming,  but are you ok?

Paul.

On Sep 19, 2012, at 2:38 PM, Councill, David wrote:

> After a few calls, I found that the lady who ran into me did notify
> her insurance company. I notified mine too just in case (I thought I
> only had liability but actually I have full coverage minus a $1000
> deductible). Max said there may be a problem finding a body shop to
> work on the car. This is a relatively true statement, more so in a smaller
populated area where I live.
> But I took it to the one body shop my insurance company (USAA) recommended.
> The shop wanted to know if I know where they could get a rear bumper
> so I referred him to Moss. I l already looked it up and a full
> replacement with over riders lists at $320. The other seriously
> damaged part is the back panel, just to the left of the gas tank
> filler, which is pushed in maybe 1/2 - 1 inch from the force on the
> over rider. The body guy said it would be better to straighten out
> that part rather than weld in another piece. They gave me a repair
> estimate - for $2400. So paperwork is in the process and maybe a repair in
the next several weeks to a month.
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins at ktc.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:22 PM
> To: MG List
> Cc: Councill, David
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 64 B rear ended
>
> That got me to wondering, so I went out and looked at my '69 B's rear
bumper.
> The overrider on the passenger side is partly to the left of &
> behind the gas tank filler cap.   The right edge of the overrider
> overlaps the left side of the gas cap.  If the overrider was tilted
> straight ahead it would contact the gas cap; it would have to be
> pushed or twisted to the left to miss the cap.  I don't know if the
> overriders on the '64 are narrower than mine or perhaps located a
> little differently but I suggest that the '64 be taken to a body shop right
away in order to assess the damage.
>
> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Sep 20 01:32:16 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 08:32:16 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG related - Sort Of
References: <CC7F6380.3F13B%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <3F07463CB2B74903A36A2F2EC5F7F80A@paul>

'Axle' stand is just the name of the device.  They can be used to support a 
car (or anything else) anywhere you like such as under the rear axle, under 
the springs, under the spring hangers at the rear, or under the chassis 
rails, crossmember, or spring pans at the front, and many other places, i.e. 
sprung or unsprung.  The hazard in using four is two fold - when adding the 
second pair it is very easy for a trolley jack for example to tilt the first 
pair, and even when sitting on four with all their feet on flat, level, hard 
ground it is relatively easy to push or pull the car over with the forces 
some jobs need.  If it wasn't possible to pull them over, manufacturers 
wouldn't have to cover their backsides.  User beware.  I've only got one 
pair so as not to be tempted to use two.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> There is only an axle at one end, so I don't see how you can do this,
> really. 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Sep 20 04:55:24 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 05:55:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hagerty Insurance?
Message-ID: <505AF61C.7040809@ktc.com>

Thanks to all who answered my question about Hagerty insurance. 
Especially to those who included claims info.

CR

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 20 18:01:37 2012
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 17:01:37 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Mgs] The British Fall Classic - Oct 21st, 2012 in Morgan Hill, CA.
Message-ID: <19582259.1348185697314.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXWrPocE: Permission denied

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 20 18:05:00 2012
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 17:05:00 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Mgs] San Diego British Car Day Sunday, October 7th, 2012
Message-ID: <2129588.1348185900487.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXNEJCKU: Permission denied

From awhitema at panix.com  Thu Sep 20 22:10:00 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 21:10:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, battery, fan, or normal?
Message-ID: <44DB0CEB-709A-48CA-8239-F82BEC0B5D7D@panix.com>

I noticed tonight that the red battery light has just a hint of red as I was
driving home.

Lucas alternator was replaced by a (IIRC) 60A Bosch a few years back, and I am
using an Interstate battery I bought in 2006 or so (it sits inside during the
winter).

I have fairly bright lights (aftermarket from Daniel Stern Lighting) on
relays, I think they're rated at 55W.  I don't know if the red light goes away
when I turn them off, as I was unwilling to do so while driving at 60mph.  I
do know that if I turn off the heater fan, the red light goes dark,
disengaging the overdrive will do the same.  Using the brights doesn't seem to
make the problem worse.  Turning the stereo off doesn't make a difference
either.

The heater fan is out of a '77 MG, purely because I remember the donor car had
actual airflow when it was on, while mine didn't.

The red light is dim enough that under city lights I can't see it, it's only
on the highway where there's no street lamps that I noticed it.


My first thought was bad fan, but I also wonder if the combination of load is
just enough to overtax the alternator and the actual answer to the red light
is "this is normal, don't worry about it".  Suggestions?

--
Aaron

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Sep 21 02:03:58 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 09:03:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, battery, fan, or normal?
References: <44DB0CEB-709A-48CA-8239-F82BEC0B5D7D@panix.com>
Message-ID: <4A7AC9C768774F8EA074457E13CD169C@paul>

The light will glow if there is a potential difference between the white 
side of the warning light, which comes from the ignition switch, and the 
brown/yellow side which comes from the alternator indicator terminal.  In a 
good system it shouldn't glow.

It usually indicates the alternator is failing, possibly one or more of the 
diodes, but it will also happen if you have bad connections between the 
alternator output terminal, via the solenoid connection and ignition switch 
to the white circuit.  In both these cases it will glow brighter with 
increasing load.

Measure the voltage between the output (brown) and the indicator 
(brown/yellow) terminals on the alternator - wiring connected, engine 
running, electrical loads switched on, such that you have the glow.  If 
there is a potential difference between those two (other than perhaps a 
couple of tenths of a volt), then the alternator itself is the culprit.  If 
either of them are over 14.7v then again the alternator is the culprit.  If 
they are much the same but there is a potential difference between the 
output terminal and the ignition switch white such that the white is lower 
than the output terminal, then it is a bad connection between the two.

The heater fan and the overdrive come off the white circuit so the problem 
could either be in the brown or the ignition switch.  If the headlamps make 
no difference it will be the ignition switch circuit, if the headlamps make 
a difference then it will be in the brown circuit.  Exactly where it could 
be in either case depends on the year as wiring varies.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I noticed tonight that the red battery light has just a hint of red as I 
>was
> driving home.

From awhitema at panix.com  Fri Sep 21 07:50:07 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 06:50:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, battery, fan, or normal?
In-Reply-To: <4A7AC9C768774F8EA074457E13CD169C@paul>
References: <44DB0CEB-709A-48CA-8239-F82BEC0B5D7D@panix.com>
	<4A7AC9C768774F8EA074457E13CD169C@paul>
Message-ID: <5FC00094-2865-4877-9FEC-98019F29CF22@panix.com>

On Sep 21, 2012, at 1:03 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:

> The light will glow if there is a potential difference between the white
side of the warning light, which comes from the ignition switch, and the
brown/yellow side which comes from the alternator indicator terminal.  In a
good system it shouldn't glow.

The white side, eh?  Can't believe I forgot that.  When I say glow, I mean "a
hint of glow."  I'd never see it in daylight.

> It usually indicates the alternator is failing, possibly one or more of the
diodes, but it will also happen if you have bad connections between the
alternator output terminal, via the solenoid connection and ignition switch to
the white circuit.  In both these cases it will glow brighter with increasing
load.

I didn't write this last night, but it was "brightest" at steady speeds around
60mph with the OD on.  Turning it off made the glow go away, but I did that
not to reduce load, but to increase engine speed.  The glow also appeared to
go away as I slowed coming into town (but again, ambient light could have been
the problem here).

> Measure the voltage between the output (brown) and the indicator
(brown/yellow) terminals on the alternator - wiring connected, engine running,
electrical loads switched on, such that you have the glow.

Voltmeter in voltage mode, one probe on each terminal, right?  (I hate playing
with devices that produce rich chunky unfused amps, so I want to be sure)

> The heater fan and the overdrive come off the white circuit so the problem
could either be in the brown or the ignition switch.  If the headlamps make no
difference it will be the ignition switch circuit, if the headlamps make a
difference then it will be in the brown circuit.  Exactly where it could be in
either case depends on the year as wiring varies.

It's a '75, but the wiring isn't all '75.  The alternator has two large output
terminals instead of 1, so I run a second parallel brown circuit between there
and the solenoid terminal to the battery.  I've spliced in feeds to the
headlights and added relays to reduce the load on the original brown circuit.
I'll make a run out tomorrow night and see what happens.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Sep 21 09:04:15 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 16:04:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, battery, fan, or normal?
References: <44DB0CEB-709A-48CA-8239-F82BEC0B5D7D@panix.com>
	<4A7AC9C768774F8EA074457E13CD169C@paul>
	<5FC00094-2865-4877-9FEC-98019F29CF22@panix.com>
Message-ID: <2C34DB69B492405F93783705AAC65185@paul>

You can measure each terminal to earth, but it's easier to measure between 
the two at the alternator, maybe less so when comparing the brown at the alt 
with the white at the ignition switch.  Meter on volts, all you have to 
watch out for is that each probe doesn't touch earth as well as the terminal 
it is supposed to be on.  If one is on a terminal, the other can be on an 
earth quite safely.

Both my single-speed heater fans take about 3 amps, which is quite 
surprising given the relatively feeble performance.  The motor out of a 
2-speed heater may take a little more, although the two speeds were obtained 
by inserting a resistor to get the lower speed, rather than any mod to the 
windings themselves, although the two do have different part numbers.   If 
the windings are shorting out or there is any mechanical drag on the fan 
slowing it down it will take more.

OD should take less than an amp, fuel pump will only draw current in short 
occasional pulses - the original SU type anyway.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
Voltmeter in voltage mode, one probe on each terminal, right?  (I hate 
playing with devices that produce rich chunky unfused amps, so I want to be 
sure)

But the fact that the OD and heater are both on the same white, that's 
interesting to me.  Fuel pump too, IIRC.  If the heater fan is going bad, it 
would draw more current, right?  Could that too be the problem?  What are 
they supposed to draw, because testing *that* is really easy :)= 

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Fri Sep 21 13:07:00 2012
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 15:07:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Spin On Filters (Again)
Message-ID: <13A6A91491134BB0A7C409F402E424BD@frankdcczr6l6k>

Sorry for this repititious post but I would like to know the correct Napa Gold
Filter number to fit the adapter on my 1964 MGB.  It is impossible to see it
from above  or below and I want to pick one up and avoid making two trips. I
recall this being a topic of discussion some time ago. Thanks.
Frank Krajewski

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Sep 21 14:28:12 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 15:28:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spin On Filters (Again)
In-Reply-To: <13A6A91491134BB0A7C409F402E424BD@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <13A6A91491134BB0A7C409F402E424BD@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <201209212028.q8LKSA4I017320@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

For original type filter insert cartridge see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100a1.htm

Spin-on adapter would be an aftermarket fitment for the 1964 model.
See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100b.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100b1.htm


At 03:07 PM 9/21/2012 -0400, frankk12 at verizon.net wrote:
>.... I would like to know the correct Napa Gold Filter number to fit 
>the adapter on my 1964 MGB.  It is impossible to see it from 
>above  or below and I want to pick one up and avoid making two 
>trips. I recall this being a topic of discussion some time ago. ....

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Sep 21 19:02:28 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 20:02:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spin On Filters (Again)
In-Reply-To: <201209212028.q8LKSA4I017320@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
References: <13A6A91491134BB0A7C409F402E424BD@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<201209212028.q8LKSA4I017320@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <505D0E24.2030703@justbrits.com>

<< On 9/21/2012 2:07 PM, frankk12 at verizon.net wrote:

Sorry for this repititious post.......>>

NO you are NOT Frank, LAZY = YEP ! ! !

Whilst Barney's "Reply Post:" IS spot-on, it should NOT have been 
necessary to bother him with such a MUNDANE and BEATEN-TO-DEATH 
subject, Frank ! ! !
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The FOURTH line at bottom of EVERY List Post IS:
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ---> mgs --->threads ---> search 
for NAPA Filters =


    Results:


    References: [ NAPA: 736 ] [ Filters: 1495 ]

*Total 117 documents matching your query.
*xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


Geeesh, 'nuf said ? ! ?*
*

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  Not sure if that POS Outlook Express has a Spell Check, but YOU 
'need' one - LOL ! !
PPS: For you own good go to http://www.mozilla.org/en-US/ and D/L ---> 
install the FREE
[I repeat, FREE <G>] eMail program "Thunderbird" ! ! ! WAY, WAY 
'safer' and HAS "Spel-CheK" --- LOL ! ! !

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Sep 22 13:10:25 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 14:10:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spin On Filters (Again)
Message-ID: <505E0D21.90906@comcast.net>

Ed, take a deep breath. Then take your meds.

The NAPA number we use at the shop is 5031, but that doesn't show up when you walk into a store because it's apparently a B2B number. Last time I walked into a store and asked for that number the guys were totally puzzled by it and so was the computer. Apparently they had changed their part number system since the last time I'd bought one retail.

Frank, it might not hurt to take your existing filter to a NAPA store and just say "I need one of these". You didn't specify whether your adapter was hanging or standing. Barney's posts should lead you to the right one if you don't have a store nearby.

> To:mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Spin On Filters (Again)
> Message-ID:<505D0E24.2030703 at justbrits.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> <<  On 9/21/2012 2:07 PM,frankk12 at verizon.net  wrote:
>
> Sorry for this repititious post.......>>
>
> NO you are NOT Frank, LAZY = YEP ! ! !
>
> Whilst Barney's "Reply Post:" IS spot-on, it should NOT have been
> necessary to bother him with such a MUNDANE and BEATEN-TO-DEATH
> subject, Frank ! ! !

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sat Sep 22 15:14:32 2012
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 16:14:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] DM2 distributor cap on a 25D4 distributor (MGA)
Message-ID: <505E2A38.4000408@stclegal.com>

Can you use a side entry distributor cap from a  DM2 distributor on a 
25D4 distributor?
-- 
e-mail signature Robert Guinness

From lincman90 at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 22 16:02:00 2012
From: lincman90 at hotmail.com (Tom Daughdrill)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 17:02:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Seats
Message-ID: <BLU401-EAS34214BEA90BBC76930E0518AC980@phx.gbl>

Are there any special tricks to removal or installation of seats in the RB
MGBs?  I know it is a real pain in the Midget, because the rails fall off of
the seat frame.

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Sep 22 16:08:17 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 22:08:17 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Seats
Message-ID: <20120922.180817.32068.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

  The MGB rails fall off as well or better than Midget rails.  One wrap of
masking tape around frame and rail may help to hold them on while maneuvering
the seats back into the car. Just tear off the visible parts when done. Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Tom Daughdrill <lincman90 at hotmail.com>
To: "Mgs at autox.team.net" <Mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Seats
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 17:02:00 -0500

Are there any special tricks to removal or installation of seats in the RB
MGBs?  I know it is a real pain in the Midget, because the rails fall off of
the seat frame.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun Sep 23 02:32:55 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:32:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Seats
References: <20120922.180817.32068.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <E66BB4B0995A4CC5990CE53EFCB6EF13@paul>

Indeed (RB or CB, roadster or GT), and the last thing you want is the rails 
clattering on your shiny paintwork.  However I've found that the outer rail 
with the adjuster is fine, it's the inner one that falls off.

Push the seat back as far as it will go and use a ratchet ring spanner to 
undo the front bolts.  These are concealed inside the fixed crossmember so 
try and avoid stripping the welded nuts or shearing the bolts.  With those 
undone you can get the seat to slide forwards further than normal, and use a 
standard socket on the rears.  Replacement is the reverse of removal, 
personally I've never had any problems locating the rear holes first as you 
can look down on them.  With those in it is just a matter of swinging the 
front rails from side to side until you feel the bolt go into the nut.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

>  The MGB rails fall off as well or better than Midget rails.  One wrap of
> masking tape around frame and rail may help to hold them on while 
> maneuvering
> the seats back into the car. Just tear off the visible parts when done. 
> Bob
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
>
> Are there any special tricks to removal or installation of seats in the RB
> MGBs? 

From batangelias at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 23 04:25:12 2012
From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 18:25:12 +0800 (SGT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB 50th in Manila, Philippines
In-Reply-To: <20120922.180817.32068.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120922.180817.32068.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <1348395912.7620.YahooMailNeo@web190405.mail.sg3.yahoo.com>

A pair of snaps from this morning's MGB 50th get together. Despite the monsoon rain the night before, it did not deter a few of us from getting together to celebrate this milestone. We were joined by a few MG T's and other roadsters. 


https://picasaweb.google.com/galan.m/MGB50

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Sep 23 09:30:09 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 10:30:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB 50th in Manila, Philippines
In-Reply-To: <1348395912.7620.YahooMailNeo@web190405.mail.sg3.yahoo.com>
References: <20120922.180817.32068.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<1348395912.7620.YahooMailNeo@web190405.mail.sg3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <505F2B01.1050105@justbrits.com>

<< On 9/23/2012 5:25 AM, Martin C. Galan wrote:

We were joined by a few MG T's and other roadsters.  >>


The Blue Leaf Events Pavilion seems to be a lovely place to not only 
stay but to take pictures except of "T-Series" MG.

Why not, Martin (Marty??) ??  Especially since the three (3) "Bs" pics 
are GREAT ? ! ?

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:    I am ALWAYS happy to 'host" such pictures with WAY better "pic options" <VBG> ! !
          And WITHOUT the sometimes REQUIRED "Membership to Google and/or Picasa" ! ? ! ?
PPS:  er, unless Password Protect/Required is Desired (can be done, tho<G>).

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sun Sep 23 16:28:42 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 17:28:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB 50th in Manila, Philippines
In-Reply-To: <1348395912.7620.YahooMailNeo@web190405.mail.sg3.yahoo.com>
References: <20120922.180817.32068.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<1348395912.7620.YahooMailNeo@web190405.mail.sg3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <505F8D1A.2080409@ktc.com>

That blue B on the left is a dead ringer for mine except it doesn't seem 
to have the big headrests.

CR
On 9/23/2012 5:25 AM, Martin C. Galan wrote:
> A pair of snaps from this morning's MGB 50th get together. Despite the monsoon rain the night before, it did not deter a few of us from getting together to celebrate this milestone. We were joined by a few MG T's and other roadsters.
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/galan.m/MGB50
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 26 12:00:31 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 11:00:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] RIP Al Moss
Message-ID: <1348682431.57584.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

He passed away last night, the founder of Moss Motors in the '50's. 


Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 26 16:11:44 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 17:11:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spin On Filters (Again)
In-Reply-To: <505E0D21.90906@comcast.net>
References: <505E0D21.90906@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <50637DA0.3090903@ktc.com>

I use a hanging filter adapter on my B.  The NAPA gold filter for it is 
#1374.

CR

From schultejim at msn.com  Thu Sep 27 14:24:37 2012
From: schultejim at msn.com (=?utf-8?B?c2NodWx0ZWppbUBtc24uY29t?=)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 16:24:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] =?utf-8?q?Shock_rebuilds?=
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP22AFA5A891DCB787E61DE4DB830@phx.gbl>

Folks,
My brother wants to rebuild shocks on a late B.  I for the life of me can't think of the place in the mid-west where I got mine done. Can someone remind me.
TIA
Jim
70B
58 Magnette
Sent via the HTC Vividb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Sep 27 15:16:43 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 16:16:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Shock rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP22AFA5A891DCB787E61DE4DB830@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP22AFA5A891DCB787E61DE4DB830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <201209272116.q8RLGdZq026937@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

World Wide Auto Parts
http://www.nosimport.com


At 04:24 PM 9/27/2012 -0400, schultejim at msn.com wrote:
>....
>My brother wants to rebuild shocks on a late B.  I for the life of 
>me can't think of the place in the mid-west where I got mine done. 
>Can someone remind me.
>....

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Sep 27 15:23:14 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 17:23:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Shock rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP22AFA5A891DCB787E61DE4DB830@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP22AFA5A891DCB787E61DE4DB830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0MB100IGO23MB0V0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Peter at Worldwide Imports:

www.worldwideimportautoparts.com

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 04:24 PM 9/27/2012, schultejim at msn.com wrote:
>Folks,
>My brother wants to rebuild shocks on a late
>B.  I for the life of me can't think of the
>place in the mid-west where I got mine done. Can someone remind me.
>TIA
>Jim
>70B
>58 Magnette
>Sent via the HTC Vivid, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Sep 27 15:30:36 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 17:30:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Shock rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <7.1.0.9.2.20120927172201.09d0f688@optonline.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP22AFA5A891DCB787E61DE4DB830@phx.gbl>
	<7.1.0.9.2.20120927172201.09d0f688@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <0MB1002IM2FVNEP0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Oops.  I guess the business is actually called
World Wide Auto Parts, though in some places it
says World Wide Import Auto
Parts.  www.nosimport.com seems to get you there as well.


At 05:23 PM 9/27/2012, Steven Trovato wrote:
>Peter at Worldwide Imports:
>
>www.worldwideimportautoparts.com
>
>-Steve Trovato
>strovato at optonline.net
>
>At 04:24 PM 9/27/2012, schultejim at msn.com wrote:
>>Folks,
>>My brother wants to rebuild shocks on a late
>>B.  I for the life of me can't think of the
>>place in the mid-west where I got mine done. Can someone remind me.
>>TIA
>>Jim
>>70B
>>58 Magnette
>>Sent via the HTC Vivid, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sun Sep 30 13:57:05 2012
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:57:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor Problems
Message-ID: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com>

I recently had my DM2 distributor out of a MGA 1600 with a three main 
1800 engine and encountered two problems.

1. When the points were adjuster to the farthest open setting, the cam 
would still not open them.  I had experience intermittent  lack of power 
on acceleration under load.

2.  I replaced the distributor with another used one.  When I set the 
engine at TDC to static time the "new" distributor (DM2), the rotor 
points 180 degrees away from the #1 wire.  The distributor drops in OK.  
Of course the engine does nor start.  there is the occasional backfire 
and rifle out out the tail pipe.  I even dropped in a spare 25D 
distributor and it also points away from #1.

What is going on?
-- 
e-mail signature Robert Guinness

From strovato at optonline.net  Sun Sep 30 14:17:43 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 16:17:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor Problems
In-Reply-To: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com>
References: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <0MB600IU9J2N2NJ0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Well, a 4-cycle engine goes to TDC twice.  Once at the top of the 
compression stroke and once at the top of the exhaust stroke.  Just 
remember, suck, squeeze, bang, blow.  You need to go all the way 
around one more time and the distributor should do another 180 
degrees and be right where you want it.  Then you will have spark at 
the right time, the engine will run and all will be right with the world.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 03:57 PM 9/30/2012, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>I replaced the distributor with another used one.  When I set the
>engine at TDC to static time the "new" distributor (DM2), the rotor
>points 180 degrees away from the #1 wire.  The distributor drops in OK.
>Of course the engine does nor start.  there is the occasional backfire
>and rifle out out the tail pipe.  I even dropped in a spare 25D
>distributor and it also points away from #1.

From bmcspares at aol.com  Sun Sep 30 14:20:13 2012
From: bmcspares at aol.com (bmcspares at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 16:20:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor Problems
In-Reply-To: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com>
References: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <8CF6D6021EEFD13-AFC-57111@Webmail-d123.sysops.aol.com>

What has happened is someone has had the drive dog off the shaft of the
distributor and put it back on 180' from where it was when it came from the
factory. Just knock the pin out, reinstall 180' and you should be good to go.


Jon Nyhus



-----Original Message-----
From: Robert J. Guinness <guinness at stclegal.com>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 30, 2012 1:01 pm
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor Problems


I recently had my DM2 distributor out of a MGA 1600 with a three main
1800 engine and encountered two problems.

1. When the points were adjuster to the farthest open setting, the cam
would still not open them.  I had experience intermittent  lack of power
on acceleration under load.

2.  I replaced the distributor with another used one.  When I set the
engine at TDC to static time the "new" distributor (DM2), the rotor
points 180 degrees away from the #1 wire.  The distributor drops in OK.
Of course the engine does nor start.  there is the occasional backfire
and rifle out out the tail pipe.  I even dropped in a spare 25D
distributor and it also points away from #1.

What is going on?
--
e-mail signature Robert Guinness
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From strovato at optonline.net  Sun Sep 30 20:52:05 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 22:52:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor Problems
In-Reply-To: <8CF6D6021EEFD13-AFC-57111@Webmail-d123.sysops.aol.com>
References: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com>
	<8CF6D6021EEFD13-AFC-57111@Webmail-d123.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0MB700EAS1BXID30@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Give my way a try before you get drastic.  Take a look at the 
procedure given here:

http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/ignition_timing.htm

Note this part:

So, the first step in any static timing operation is to set the 
engine to the required number of degrees before top dead center on 
the compression stroke. At this time, both the intake and exhaust 
valves should be closed and the rocker arms loose. (Removing the 
rocker arm cover and watching the intake valve, the second valve from 
the front open and close as you rotate the engine over either by 
using a 1 5/16" wrench or socket on the crankshaft pulley or pushing 
the car with the engine in gear is not a bad idea the first time you 
do this to make sure you are actually on the compression stroke. If 
you push the car, take it out of gear and set the handbrake before 
proceeding to ensure the engine can not move off the proper timing 
mark.) The brass tip of the rotor should be pointing towards the 
number one terminal of the distributor cap at this point. If it is 
pointing towards the number four cylinder nipple, your timing is "180 
out" or you are on the exhaust stroke of number one cylinder, not the 
compression stroke.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 04:20 PM 9/30/2012, bmcspares at aol.com wrote:
>What has happened is someone has had the drive dog off the shaft of the
>distributor and put it back on 180' from where it was when it came from the
>factory. Just knock the pin out, reinstall 180' and you should be good to go.
>
>
>Jon Nyhus