From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Oct 1 02:07:57 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 09:07:57 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor Problems References: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com><8CF6D6021EEFD13-AFC-57111@Webmail-d123.sysops.aol.com> <0MB700EAS1BXID30@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <8CA7AC69D31F46E68D7C82824D30441E@paul> The two halves of the distributor shaft can also be reassembled 180 degrees out, and on an MGB at least the drive gear in the block can be inserted in as many different positions as there are teeth. You can move the leads round the cap to 'correct' any of these, but it seems to me that as two alternative distributors pointed in the 'wrong' direction it is the drive gear that is wrong and maybe the distributor was altered to suit that, or the other way round. But OTOH you didn't say where the rotor *does* point on No.1 firing stroke, on an MGB as you look down on the rotor this should be about 1 o'clock. If that is where your two alternative distributors point, but your original distributor points to 7 o'clock, then the drive gear is correct, and the leads on your cap were moved round by a PO to suit an incorrect distributor, so simply put the leads back where they should be. Work out exactly what is wrong first, then correct that if you want to get it right. Or if your drive gear and/or distributor are wrong and you want a quick bodge, simply move the leads round to suit. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Give my way a try before you get drastic. Take a look at the procedure > given here: From strovato at optonline.net Mon Oct 1 08:20:33 2012 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2012 10:20:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor Problems In-Reply-To: <8CA7AC69D31F46E68D7C82824D30441E@paul> References: <5068A411.8040204@stclegal.com> <8CF6D6021EEFD13-AFC-57111@Webmail-d123.sysops.aol.com> <0MB700EAS1BXID30@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <8CA7AC69D31F46E68D7C82824D30441E@paul> Message-ID: <0MB700GOWX8XYSB0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> The car was running with the original distributor. You can visually look at the distributors and see the relationship between the offset shaft end and the rotor. If the new distributors are the same as the original, then you don't have to worry about mutant misassembled distributors. If the car was running before (even with intermittent lack of power) and you haven't removed the drive gear, then you can pretty much figure it isn't installed backwards. "Work out exactly what is wrong first, then correct that if you want to get it right" is the best advice. Hopefully Robert will make sure he has the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and report back on the latest status. -Steve At 04:07 AM 10/1/2012, PaulHunt73 wrote: >The two halves of the distributor shaft can also be reassembled 180 >degrees out, and on an MGB at least the drive gear in the block can >be inserted in as many different positions as there are teeth. You >can move the leads round the cap to 'correct' any of these, but it >seems to me that as two alternative distributors pointed in the >'wrong' direction it is the drive gear that is wrong and maybe the >distributor was altered to suit that, or the other way round. But >OTOH you didn't say where the rotor *does* point on No.1 firing >stroke, on an MGB as you look down on the rotor this should be about >1 o'clock. If that is where your two alternative distributors >point, but your original distributor points to 7 o'clock, then the >drive gear is correct, and the leads on your cap were moved round by >a PO to suit an incorrect distributor, so simply put the leads back >where they should be. > >Work out exactly what is wrong first, then correct that if you want >to get it right. Or if your drive gear and/or distributor are wrong >and you want a quick bodge, simply move the leads round to suit. > >PaulH. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Oct 4 03:41:59 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 10:41:59 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Message-ID: <25C588A91A8B47758A8D36B3E40941C8@paul> Now I know I'm going to be told to fit the engine and gearbox as a unit. But has anyone removed the mount brackets from the engine front plate, dropped just the engine down between the chassis rails and brackets, joined the gearbox to the engine on the floor under the car, then lifted the assembly into position and refitted the mount brackets and mounts? I realise the rear of the gearbox may need jacking up as the engine is raised into position. Space and hoist limitations make lifting the combined unit in from the top problematic. Thanks, PaulH. From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Oct 4 11:04:19 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 10:04:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation In-Reply-To: <25C588A91A8B47758A8D36B3E40941C8@paul> Message-ID: Other than the bit about the mounting brackets, I 'm sure it can be done. I don't know why you wouldn't have them attached -- they're pretty fiddly in the confines of the engine compartment. But I'm thinking about an early B. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/4/12 2:41 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com wrote: > Now I know I'm going to be told to fit the engine and gearbox as a unit. But > has anyone removed the mount brackets from the engine front plate, dropped > just the engine down between the chassis rails and brackets, joined the > gearbox to the engine on the floor under the car, then lifted the assembly > into position and refitted the mount brackets and mounts? I realise the rear > of the gearbox may need jacking up as the engine is raised into position. > Space and hoist limitations make lifting the combined unit in from the top > problematic. > > Thanks, > PaulH. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 4 13:28:56 2012 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 14:28:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9191C0F2-955E-4B99-B8A0-82C9C14DAD7F@gmail.com> You'll recall that Paul has the big full length car ramps. He's got lots of space under the car. I just don't know how you are going to get it forward enough to drop the tail of the transmission and then be able to push the whole thing back to clear the front cross member. On Oct 4, 2012, at 12:04 PM, Max Heim wrote: > Other than the bit about the mounting brackets, I 'm sure it can be done. I > don't know why you wouldn't have them attached -- they're pretty fiddly in > the confines of the engine compartment. But I'm thinking about an early B. > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Menlo Park, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > on 10/4/12 2:41 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com wrote: > >> Now I know I'm going to be told to fit the engine and gearbox as a unit. But >> has anyone removed the mount brackets from the engine front plate, dropped >> just the engine down between the chassis rails and brackets, joined the >> gearbox to the engine on the floor under the car, then lifted the assembly >> into position and refitted the mount brackets and mounts? I realise the rear >> of the gearbox may need jacking up as the engine is raised into position. >> Space and hoist limitations make lifting the combined unit in from the top >> problematic. >> >> Thanks, >> PaulH. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From twobees at sprynet.com Thu Oct 4 14:02:23 2012 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 16:02:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Re.: MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Message-ID: <007601cda26b$2b87c190$829744b0$@com> Paul, I recommend that you install the gearbox first. Then lift the nose of the trans as high as possible. Tie it to a handy bolt with wire or short piece of rope, and then install the engine. I did that many times with my MGB. After installing the race engine and having problems with the throwout bearing, I had the engine in & out 5 times in one year. I never had a problem aligning the input shaft and clutch disc splines because I always used the spline tool when bolting up the pressure plate. Longest it ever took to slide engine back over input shaft was maybe 2 or 3 minutes. Most often it was a matter of seconds. I got to the point where I could remove & replace the engine myself in less than 5 hours. I did have an electric chain hoist however. I did the same R&R with my Spridget engine with a hydraulic hoist a number of times. Equally as easy. If you install as combo unit (engine & trans), I believe you have to lift the car up to allow tailshaft to clear. Why do that if all you have to do is let the car sit on the ground? Norm From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Oct 4 14:28:15 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 13:28:15 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation In-Reply-To: <9191C0F2-955E-4B99-B8A0-82C9C14DAD7F@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hmm, why doesn't he put the tranny in position first, then join up the engine? That's how I read it the first time. I'm not sure you can get them both in from underneath. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/4/12 12:28 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote: > You'll recall that Paul has the big full length car ramps. He's got lots of > space under the car. > > I just don't know how you are going to get it forward enough to drop the tail > of the transmission and then be able to push the whole thing back to clear the > front cross member. > > On Oct 4, 2012, at 12:04 PM, Max Heim wrote: > >> Other than the bit about the mounting brackets, I 'm sure it can be done. I >> don't know why you wouldn't have them attached -- they're pretty fiddly in >> the confines of the engine compartment. But I'm thinking about an early B. >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Menlo Park, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> on 10/4/12 2:41 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com wrote: >> >>> Now I know I'm going to be told to fit the engine and gearbox as a unit. >>> But >>> has anyone removed the mount brackets from the engine front plate, dropped >>> just the engine down between the chassis rails and brackets, joined the >>> gearbox to the engine on the floor under the car, then lifted the assembly >>> into position and refitted the mount brackets and mounts? I realise the >>> rear >>> of the gearbox may need jacking up as the engine is raised into position. >>> Space and hoist limitations make lifting the combined unit in from the top >>> problematic. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> PaulH. From rpschauss at gmail.com Thu Oct 4 17:50:59 2012 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 19:50:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <506e20ed.03c6e00a.0ca0.ffff902b@mx.google.com> Paul, I have never tried it, but I do not believe that there is enough clearance between the chassis rails to drop the engine. If space is limited, my preference would be to leave the gearbox in place. Lining the engine up with the gearbox will be a bit of a struggle, but patience you should be able mate the two units. You will need to remove the starter as it will not clear the body. Also, on later MGB's the steering column goes through the left hand motor mount bracket. If you detach the motor mount from this bracket you will have to remove the steering rack in order to attach the motor mount to the bracket on the frame in order to tighten the nut. HTH, Peter Schauss 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 10:41:59 +0100 > From: "PaulHunt73" > To: , > Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation > Message-ID: <25C588A91A8B47758A8D36B3E40941C8 at paul> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Now I know I'm going to be told to fit the engine and gearbox as a unit. > But > has anyone removed the mount brackets from the engine front plate, dropped > just the engine down between the chassis rails and brackets, joined the > gearbox to the engine on the floor under the car, then lifted the assembly > into position and refitted the mount brackets and mounts? I realise the > rear > of the gearbox may need jacking up as the engine is raised into position. > Space and hoist limitations make lifting the combined unit in from the top > problematic. > > Thanks, > PaulH. From scvc70 at epix.net Thu Oct 4 19:06:16 2012 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 21:06:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mystery steering wheel Message-ID: <799EB31B2BC94940810DE7B988E4307A@valuedea617bbe> Can the collective wisdom of the List help us solve a mystery? I've acquired what at first glance seems to be a steering wheel just like the one on our '71 B/GT -- same outside diameter, same stitched construction, 3 flat spokes with 5 graduated holes in each. It's apparently meant for a shaft the same diameter as the '71, as the nut with it spins on the protruding stub of the shaft (I just wasn't in the mood to take the present wheel off to see if the splines were also the same). However -- it has a soft plastic center boss that looks exactly like the one on the LE steering wheel shown in the Moss catalog (the emblem is missing from this wheel--but the LE wheel apparently has only 3 holes in each spoke); and when the boss is removed, there is no provision for the type of horn that's on the '71 -- this wheel lacks the cast-in lump that is drilled for the horn rod. The number "ALC 1" is cast into the '71 wheel hub recess at 6 o'clock; the new wheel is "ALC 2." Does anyone out there have a clue??? TIA, Sarah Carr '71 B/GT in PA From rolindsay at yahoo.com Thu Oct 4 20:06:55 2012 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 19:06:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] OT - Webers Message-ID: <1349402815.56826.YahooMailClassic@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hello Friends, The Weber rebuilds are completed and reinstalled on my Ferrari V8 engine. In this implementation, the 40DCNF velocity stacks mount in the airbox. That is, the airbox is between the carbs and the trumpets. But of course, one can't tune the carbs with that honkin' big airbox blocking access, so the tuning is done without the box in place, THEN its installed afterward. In the picture at the end of the link, the trumpets are only sitting in place as I haven't yet added the retaining nuts - but you can see the REALLY nice, clean, happy Webers. http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari/20121004_161607.jpg The choke linkage is only inter-connected on the front two carbs. The rear choke linkage is left off to improve access to one of the linkage ends. There are screw-in retainers at the end of each link. One retainer broke into upon removal, so I am awaiting a replacement. I'll visit my local exotic repair shop tomorrow and forage through their 'junk box'. -rick From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Oct 5 01:41:17 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 08:41:17 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] mystery steering wheel References: <799EB31B2BC94940810DE7B988E4307A@valuedea617bbe> Message-ID: <8F8DA8D4FF6B4106A0DB17FCEF951C68@paul> It's the splines that are crucial to fit, Clausager says there were three different sets over the years. From what I can gather the first was on the solid column, the second on the simple collapsible column, and the third on the full energy absorbing column. North American Mk2 models to 1970, and UK 1970 models, had stalk operated horns, not centre push-button. Similar but not identical wheels were used on various marques and models. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I've acquired what at first glance seems to be a steering wheel just like > the > one on our '71 B/GT -- > > ... when the boss is removed, there is no provision for the type of horn > that's on > the '71 From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com Fri Oct 5 04:37:07 2012 From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 06:37:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] OT - Webers In-Reply-To: <1349402815.56826.YahooMailClassic@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1349402815.56826.YahooMailClassic@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <17562293-A0DD-4613-9E53-D6509CDC21D0@trebelhorn.com> Beautiful. Nice work, Rick. Matt On 4 Oct, 2012, at 10:06 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote: > Hello Friends, > > The Weber rebuilds are completed and reinstalled on my Ferrari V8 > engine. In this implementation, the 40DCNF velocity stacks mount > in the airbox. That is, the airbox is between the carbs and the > trumpets. But of course, one can't tune the carbs with that > honkin' big airbox blocking access, so the tuning is done without > the box in place, THEN its installed afterward. In the picture at > the end of the link, the trumpets are only sitting in place as I > haven't yet added the retaining nuts - but you can see the REALLY > nice, clean, happy Webers. > > http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari/20121004_161607.jpg > > The choke linkage is only inter-connected on the front two carbs. > The rear choke linkage is left off to improve access to one of the > linkage ends. There are screw-in retainers at the end of each > link. One retainer broke into upon removal, so I am awaiting a > replacement. I'll visit my local exotic repair shop tomorrow and > forage through their 'junk box'. > > -rick From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Fri Oct 5 08:05:51 2012 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:05:51 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] mystery steering wheel In-Reply-To: <799EB31B2BC94940810DE7B988E4307A@valuedea617bbe> References: <799EB31B2BC94940810DE7B988E4307A@valuedea617bbe> Message-ID: A picture would be helpful. However, I do know that on aftermarket steering wheels, they are designed for the different spline years by using different center hubs. So you can use the same steering wheels for a 71 or the newer rubber bumpered Bs, by replacing the center hub. See this page from Moss Motors where they show different steering wheels and hubs of which it looks like there were four different hub designs: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=35369 On original steering wheels, it is possible to remove them from the center hub as well, but I am not sure how inter changeable they might be, using a different era hub, at least for the 70s non-spoke styles. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2012 7:06 PM To: MG list Subject: [Mgs] mystery steering wheel Can the collective wisdom of the List help us solve a mystery? I've acquired what at first glance seems to be a steering wheel just like the one on our '71 B/GT -- same outside diameter, same stitched construction, 3 flat spokes with 5 graduated holes in each. It's apparently meant for a shaft the same diameter as the '71, as the nut with it spins on the protruding stub of the shaft (I just wasn't in the mood to take the present wheel off to see if the splines were also the same). However -- it has a soft plastic center boss that looks exactly like the one on the LE steering wheel shown in the Moss catalog (the emblem is missing from this wheel--but the LE wheel apparently has only 3 holes in each spoke); and when the boss is removed, there is no provision for the type of horn that's on the '71 -- this wheel lacks the cast-in lump that is drilled for the horn rod. The number "ALC 1" is cast into the '71 wheel hub recess at 6 o'clock; the new wheel is "ALC 2." Does anyone out there have a clue??? TIA, Sarah Carr '71 B/GT in PA From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 08:28:15 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 07:28:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] OT - Webers In-Reply-To: <1349402815.56826.YahooMailClassic@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1349402815.56826.YahooMailClassic@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1349447295.90689.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I think you should have painted the cam covers red, Rick.... ;-) Dan D '76 B Driver '65 B Project Central NJ USA ________________________________ From: Rick Lindsay To: MGS ; Ferrari Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 10:06 PM Subject: [Mgs] OT - Webers Hello Friends, The Weber rebuilds are completed and reinstalled on my Ferrari V8 engine. In this implementation, the 40DCNF velocity stacks mount in the airbox. That is, the airbox is between the carbs and the trumpets. But of course, one can't tune the carbs with that honkin' big airbox blocking access, so the tuning is done without the box in place, THEN its installed afterward. In the picture at the end of the link, the trumpets are only sitting in place as I haven't yet added the retaining nuts - but you can see the REALLY nice, clean, happy Webers. http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari/20121004_161607.jpg The choke linkage is only inter-connected on the front two carbs. The rear choke linkage is left off to improve access to one of the linkage ends. There are screw-in retainers at the end of each link. One retainer broke into upon removal, so I am awaiting a replacement. I'll visit my local exotic repair shop tomorrow and forage through their 'junk box'. -rick _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Fri Oct 5 20:00:55 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 20:00:55 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] List availability Message-ID: <20121006020055.E95B22E05B@bradakis.com> The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for many years is failing. I'm working on replacing it with a brand new Actiontec unit. It is not going well. There are some issues with the new modem that need to be resolved. So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware. I appreciate your patience. mjb. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Oct 7 08:50:04 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 15:50:04 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation References: <5070FE40.1080005@comcast.net> Message-ID: One thing I've never seen discussed in the 'engine only' or 'engine and gearbox together' debate is getting at the gearbox to crossmember mounts. Whilst it obviously isn't impossible, some people have felt it necessary to resort to drilling the crossmember to get a socket on a long extension through. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > In my experience, the early and late chrome car engines can be pulled > either separately or as a unit ... From mgbob at juno.com Sun Oct 7 14:44:42 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 20:44:42 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Message-ID: <20121007.164442.27185.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Hi Paul, Access to the gearbox mounts is difficult. Additionally, there will be found a sediment of sand, dirt and hardened grease that complicates fitting the wrench to nuts and bolts. I have not resorted to drilling of the holes, so far, but it seems a reasonable thing to do. Without the holes, most of the wrenching is accomplished with open-end spanners, turning one flat at a time. This is done without being able to see anything clearly. If there were no other benefit, just having the holes to aid removal of the grit would seem to be worthwhile. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "PaulHunt73" To: , Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 15:50:04 +0100 One thing I've never seen discussed in the 'engine only' or 'engine and gearbox together' debate is getting at the gearbox to crossmember mounts. Whilst it obviously isn't impossible, some people have felt it necessary to resort to drilling the crossmember to get a socket on a long extension through. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > In my experience, the early and late chrome car engines can be pulled > either separately or as a unit ... _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From lrc at red4est.com Sun Oct 7 20:07:29 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 19:07:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? Message-ID: <0F7B3B10-5698-4A30-9502-C0D581B75727@red4est.com> I'm trying to pull the heater from my '69BGT, I seem to have everything disconnected, but it won't come out. The manuals that I have aren't very helpful. Anybody have some hints or suggestions? -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Oct 8 00:35:09 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2012 23:35:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? In-Reply-To: <0F7B3B10-5698-4A30-9502-C0D581B75727@red4est.com> Message-ID: Heh heh, this one is tricky. Did you pull the tubes from behind the rubber elbows that lead to to the defroster hoses? Those elbows are simultaneousy grommeted into the chassis box and somehow skootched around the outside of these short tubes that go into the heater box. You can get them out, but I'm damned if I could see any way to get them back in. My solution was to find some slightly smaller tubes, cut the originals shorter, and make a telescoping arrangement, so the back end of a tube could be already socketed, and the front end of the other already tucked into the elbow when I squeezed it in. Not 100% airtight, but it's not like it was already. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/7/12 7:07 PM, Larry Colen at lrc at red4est.com wrote: > I'm trying to pull the heater from my '69BGT, I seem to have everything > disconnected, but it won't come out. The manuals that I have aren't very > helpful. > > Anybody have some hints or suggestions? From barneymg at mgaguru.com Mon Oct 8 01:11:12 2012 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 02:11:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? In-Reply-To: <0F7B3B10-5698-4A30-9502-C0D581B75727@red4est.com> References: <0F7B3B10-5698-4A30-9502-C0D581B75727@red4est.com> Message-ID: <201210080711.q987B41q022216@nlpi155.prodigy.net> Yup. Try this: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater At 07:07 PM 10/7/2012 -0700, Larry Colen wrote: >I'm trying to pull the heater from my '69BGT, I seem to have everything >disconnected, but it won't come out. The manuals that I have aren't very >helpful. > >Anybody have some hints or suggestions? >.... From mgbob at juno.com Mon Oct 8 10:17:48 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 16:17:48 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? Message-ID: <20121008.121748.7908.3@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com> Larry, I found the heater box to be tightly stuck in my 1972GT. I think it was the rubber gasket at the bottom that had vulcanized itself to both car and heater, so there was pulling from the top and pushing from below to dislodge it. The radiator shop to which I took it for repair commented that the original core was better than replacements, and that his repair should suffice for another 25 years or so. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Barney Gaylord To: Larry Colen , MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 02:11:12 -0500 Yup. Try this: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater At 07:07 PM 10/7/2012 -0700, Larry Colen wrote: >I'm trying to pull the heater from my '69BGT, I seem to have everything >disconnected, but it won't come out. The manuals that I have aren't very >helpful. > >Anybody have some hints or suggestions? >.... _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Oct 8 10:53:47 2012 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 16:53:47 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB color codes Message-ID: In previous emails from a few weeks ago, I mentioned the rear end collision of my 64B. The other driver admitted fault and her insurance company has agreed to repair the damage. However, they are balking at the $2400 estimate and want to inspect the car at the body shop. So tomorrow I will be taking the car in. Granted, there were a few things on the estimate that are a bit excessive - 1 hour for top removal comes to mind, another is time for mixing paint to get the right color. I figured I would get the color code off the Teglerizer site but I am getting a server 500 error. A little searching and I came to this, which I believe is Paul Hunt's site: http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/paint.htm It confirms what I think is the correct answer - that the car is probably tartan red. This site indicates that was the red in use in 1964. Is that the only choice of red in 1964? I figured I could give the body shop the Dupont and PPG color codes to start with. David Councill 64 MGB 72 MGB 67 MGBGT From awhitema at panix.com Mon Oct 8 11:06:37 2012 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 13:06:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGB color codes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, 8 Oct 2012, Councill, David wrote: > It confirms what I think is the correct answer - that the car is probably > tartan red. This site indicates that was the red in use in 1964. Is that the > only choice of red in 1964? I figured I could give the body shop the Dupont > and PPG color codes to start with. I can't answer the question, but the one concern I would have here is that new paint will not necessarily match the original color. Paint fades, especially red paint. It might be better to try to color match to the car, even if you have the right code. -- Aaron Whiteman Pullman, Washington From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Oct 8 11:11:32 2012 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 17:11:32 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive question Message-ID: Several years ago, the OD failed in my 72B. And in a big way - loss of reverse as well as free wheeling in deceleration. So I removed it and put in a regular transmission temporarily. The problem was that I had previously had the OD transmission repaired locally a few years earlier (bad synchro 3rd gear, bad OD solenoid) and likely had less than 5k miles on it when it died. So I figured I needed to take it to a shop with experience in MG transmissions of which there is likely none within 500 miles of where I live. Since my son lives in Portland, Oregon (NW USA), I dropped it off at British Auto Works. There it sat as a few years passed. I called them periodically to prod them along and they indicated the problem was with the cone clutch which needed to be relined or replaced. After my last call a few weeks ago, they indicated they were at a dead end because they couldn't source the part. So I started with a google search and quickly found that this part (aka Moss part 466-015 "clutch sliding member" N/A) could at least be purchased from Quantum Mechanics. No big surprise there - the list has frequently mentioned Quantum and John Esposito as the place for OD repairs. I called back British Auto Works only to find out that they already knew this but have some reservations on the quality of the replacement part and said they couldn't warranty the transmission repair if they used this part. But they said they would contact them. That was a few weeks ago but it was right before I took off for a couple of weeks -a work conference followed by a backpacking trip into the Yellowstone National Park backcountry. Now that I am back, I thought I would inquire upon the list - are there other sources for this part? Or should I just have British Auto Works get the part despite their reservations? David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Oct 8 11:36:21 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 10:36:21 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB color codes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Yes, Tartan Red is the only red listed for 62-69, looking at the chart in the Moss Catalog. Don't let the insurance guys shortchange you. It's a unibody -- there's no bolt-on fascia, like a modern car -- any body damage needs to be worked by hand, which is expensive and requires skilled labor. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/8/12 9:53 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote: > In previous emails from a few weeks ago, I mentioned the rear end collision of > my 64B. The other driver admitted fault and her insurance company has agreed > to repair the damage. However, they are balking at the $2400 estimate and want > to inspect the car at the body shop. So tomorrow I will be taking the car in. > Granted, there were a few things on the estimate that are a bit excessive - 1 > hour for top removal comes to mind, another is time for mixing paint to get > the right color. I figured I would get the color code off the Teglerizer site > but I am getting a server 500 error. > > A little searching and I came to this, which I believe is Paul Hunt's site: > http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/paint.htm > > It confirms what I think is the correct answer - that the car is probably > tartan red. This site indicates that was the red in use in 1964. Is that the > only choice of red in 1964? I figured I could give the body shop the Dupont > and PPG color codes to start with. > > David Councill > 64 MGB > 72 MGB > 67 MGBGT > _______________________________________________ From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Oct 8 11:39:14 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 10:39:14 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB color codes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Good point, but I suspect he wants the entire car repainted. I would. Not that the insurance will cover that, but the amount of extra paint is trivial. on 10/8/12 10:06 AM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote: > On Mon, 8 Oct 2012, Councill, David wrote: > >> It confirms what I think is the correct answer - that the car is probably >> tartan red. This site indicates that was the red in use in 1964. Is that the >> only choice of red in 1964? I figured I could give the body shop the Dupont >> and PPG color codes to start with. > > I can't answer the question, but the one concern I would have here is > that new paint will not necessarily match the original color. Paint > fades, especially red paint. It might be better to try to color match > to the car, even if you have the right code. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Oct 8 12:00:32 2012 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 20:00:32 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? References: <20121008.121748.7908.3@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4216B65FEEFC4C93A23E3343D653C391@uw471de61b465c> Look at the archives - this issue was discussed before. I described how I used a small hacksaw to losen the heater unit from the firewall. I my case the rubber gasket made the heater glued to the firewall after 19 years in California ending in the Netherlands February 1990. Cheers, Hans 1971 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Monday, October 08, 2012 6:17 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? > Larry, > I found the heater box to be tightly stuck in my 1972GT. I think it was > the > rubber gasket at the bottom that had vulcanized itself to both car and > heater, > so there was pulling from the top and pushing from below to dislodge it. > The radiator shop to which I took it for repair commented that the > original > core was better than replacements, and that his repair should suffice for > another 25 years or so. > Bob > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Barney Gaylord > To: Larry Colen , MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGBGT heater removal? > Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 02:11:12 -0500 > > Yup. Try this: > http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater > > > At 07:07 PM 10/7/2012 -0700, Larry Colen wrote: >>I'm trying to pull the heater from my '69BGT, I seem to have everything >>disconnected, but it won't come out. The manuals that I have aren't very >>helpful. >> >>Anybody have some hints or suggestions? >>.... From rpschauss at gmail.com Mon Oct 8 12:35:53 2012 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 14:35:53 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Message-ID: I have had my engine and gear box out twice and each time I just unbolted the cross member. Once the cross member has dropped down a few inches it is quite easy to get at the bolts for the rear mounts. Peter Schauss 1980 MGB ====================================================================================== Message: 1 Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 20:44:42 GMT From: "mgbob at juno.com" To: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com, mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Message-ID: <20121007.164442.27185.0 at webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Hi Paul, Access to the gearbox mounts is difficult. Additionally, there will be found a sediment of sand, dirt and hardened grease that complicates fitting the wrench to nuts and bolts. I have not resorted to drilling of the holes, so far, but it seems a reasonable thing to do. Without the holes, most of the wrenching is accomplished with open-end spanners, turning one flat at a time. This is done without being able to see anything clearly. If there were no other benefit, just having the holes to aid removal of the grit would seem to be worthwhile. Bob From lundgren at byu.net Mon Oct 8 12:36:57 2012 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 12:36:57 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB color codes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50731D49.30104@byu.net> The non-trivial part is the body work to smooth out 40 years of parking lots and bicycles... On 10/08/2012 11:39 AM, Max Heim wrote: > Good point, but I suspect he wants the entire car repainted. I would. Not > that the insurance will cover that, but the amount of extra paint is > trivial. From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Mon Oct 8 14:36:24 2012 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 13:36:24 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB color codes References: Message-ID: <9AF2EE594D014C2DB62CD650AB7C5A1B@XPS400> On a vehicle like the MG, which has significant body damage, painting to match old color is not acceptable. The insurance company will tell you they are only obligated to repaint the damaged part but if that produces a two tone paint job its not making you "whole". If it were me, I would demand that the entire car be repainted. Ron From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Oct 8 14:51:38 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 13:51:38 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB color codes In-Reply-To: <9AF2EE594D014C2DB62CD650AB7C5A1B@XPS400> Message-ID: Yeah, that's basically what my body guy was just telling me, regarding my other car. It had a 20-year-old paint job that was a poor match for the original color. He was going to tell them it was impossible to match the paint, but he could use the code for the original color. on 10/8/12 1:36 PM, Ron Fine at RonFineEsq at earthlink.net wrote: > On a vehicle like the MG, which has significant body damage, painting to > match old color is not acceptable. The insurance company will tell you they > are only obligated to repaint the damaged part but if that produces a two > tone paint job its not making you "whole". If it were me, I would demand > that the entire car be repainted. > > Ron > -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From mgb72 at airmail.net Mon Oct 8 16:28:29 2012 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 17:28:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation In-Reply-To: <20121007.164442.27185.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> References: <20121007.164442.27185.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <005201cda5a4$3e6d1c10$bb475430$@net> It does make it easier. As mentioned below the 1 flat at a time is tedious. When I drilled mine it was the size of a 1/4 inch drive socket so a pretty small hole. Chad Cooper '72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mgbob at juno.com Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2012 3:45 PM To: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Hi Paul, Access to the gearbox mounts is difficult. Additionally, there will be found a sediment of sand, dirt and hardened grease that complicates fitting the wrench to nuts and bolts. I have not resorted to drilling of the holes, so far, but it seems a reasonable thing to do. Without the holes, most of the wrenching is accomplished with open-end spanners, turning one flat at a time. This is done without being able to see anything clearly. If there were no other benefit, just having the holes to aid removal of the grit would seem to be worthwhile. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "PaulHunt73" To: , Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 15:50:04 +0100 One thing I've never seen discussed in the 'engine only' or 'engine and gearbox together' debate is getting at the gearbox to crossmember mounts. Whilst it obviously isn't impossible, some people have felt it necessary to resort to drilling the crossmember to get a socket on a long extension through. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > In my experience, the early and late chrome car engines can be pulled > either separately or as a unit ... _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net From mgbob at juno.com Mon Oct 8 17:20:23 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 23:20:23 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive question Message-ID: <20121008.192023.1472.1@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> They may have reservations about Quantum's clutch material, but you don't need to. There must be two dozen ODs with Quantum clutches running happily around CT, and to NAMGBR gatherings, trouble free. If you telephone him, I am sure he can tell you about the clutch material and how it is performing in service. John Esposito is a straight-up guy. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Councill, David" To: MG list , "'MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com'" Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive question Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 17:11:32 +0000 Several years ago, the OD failed in my 72B. And in a big way - loss of reverse as well as free wheeling in deceleration. So I removed it and put in a regular transmission temporarily. The problem was that I had previously had the OD transmission repaired locally a few years earlier (bad synchro 3rd gear, bad OD solenoid) and likely had less than 5k miles on it when it died. So I figured I needed to take it to a shop with experience in MG transmissions of which there is likely none within 500 miles of where I live. Since my son lives in Portland, Oregon (NW USA), I dropped it off at British Auto Works. There it sat as a few years passed. I called them periodically to prod them along and they indicated the problem was with the cone clutch which needed to be relined or replaced. After my last call a few weeks ago, they indicated they were at a dead end because they couldn't source the part. So I started with a google search and quickly found that this part (aka Moss part 466-015 "clutch sliding member" N/A) could at least be purchased from Quantum Mechanics. No big surprise there - the list has frequently mentioned Quantum and John Esposito as the place for OD repairs. I called back British Auto Works only to find out that they already knew this but have some reservations on the quality of the replacement part and said they couldn't warranty the transmission repair if they used this part. But they said they would contact them. That was a few weeks ago but it was right before I took off for a couple of weeks -a work conference followed by a backpacking trip into the Yellowstone National Park backcountry. Now that I am back, I thought I would inquire upon the list - are there other sources for this part? Or should I just have British Auto Works get the part despite their reservations? David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Oct 8 17:30:54 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 16:30:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I don't even know what they are talking about regarding "warranty issues" -- if the original clutches are no longer available, and the factory is long out of business -- WTH? They can warranty their work, can't they? -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/8/12 10:11 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote: > Several years ago, the OD failed in my 72B. And in a big way - loss of reverse > as well as free wheeling in deceleration. So I removed it and put in a regular > transmission temporarily. The problem was that I had previously had the OD > transmission repaired locally a few years earlier (bad synchro 3rd gear, bad > OD solenoid) and likely had less than 5k miles on it when it died. So I > figured I needed to take it to a shop with experience in MG transmissions of > which there is likely none within 500 miles of where I live. Since my son > lives in Portland, Oregon (NW USA), I dropped it off at British Auto Works. > > There it sat as a few years passed. I called them periodically to prod them > along and they indicated the problem was with the cone clutch which needed to > be relined or replaced. After my last call a few weeks ago, they indicated > they were at a dead end because they couldn't source the part. So I started > with a google search and quickly found that this part (aka Moss part 466-015 > "clutch sliding member" N/A) could at least be purchased from Quantum > Mechanics. No big surprise there - the list has frequently mentioned Quantum > and John Esposito as the place for OD repairs. I called back British Auto > Works only to find out that they already knew this but have some reservations > on the quality of the replacement part and said they couldn't warranty the > transmission repair if they used this part. But they said they would contact > them. That was a few weeks ago but it was right before I took off for a couple > of weeks -a work conference followed by a backpacking trip into the > Yellowstone National Park backcountry. Now that I am back, I thought I would > inquire upon the list - are there other sources for this part? Or should I > just have British Auto Works get the part despite their reservations? > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Oct 8 17:58:34 2012 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 16:58:34 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I just want to know where I can get customers that will let me slide for several years on a repair, and then will accept my whining about the quality of the parts that are available. My customers bitch if an engine rebuild takes a couple of days. Rick On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Heim wrote: > I don't even know what they are talking about regarding "warranty issues" > -- > if the original clutches are no longer available, and the factory is long > out of business -- WTH? They can warranty their work, can't they? > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Menlo Park, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 10/8/12 10:11 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote: > > > Several years ago, the OD failed in my 72B. And in a big way - loss of > reverse > > as well as free wheeling in deceleration. So I removed it and put in a > regular > > transmission temporarily. The problem was that I had previously had the > OD > > transmission repaired locally a few years earlier (bad synchro 3rd gear, > bad > > OD solenoid) and likely had less than 5k miles on it when it died. So I > > figured I needed to take it to a shop with experience in MG > transmissions of > > which there is likely none within 500 miles of where I live. Since my son > > lives in Portland, Oregon (NW USA), I dropped it off at British Auto > Works. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Oct 9 01:30:11 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 08:30:11 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Engine and gearbox reinstallation References: Message-ID: <3AE7A16D220B4D6A97F4C1BAB7874EDD@paul> I had wondered about that, I've dropped it in the past to get at the overdrive switch. And as far as the 'one flat at a time' goes is there not enough room to get a ratchet ring on at the beginning and off at the end? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I have had my engine and gear box out twice and each time I just > unbolted the cross member. Once the cross member has > dropped down a few inches it is quite easy to get at the bolts for the > rear mounts. From schultejim at msn.com Wed Oct 10 08:59:47 2012 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 10:59:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 Message-ID: Folks,I am looking for a repair manual for an MG 1100. Anyone have one for sale or can recommend a used copy somewhere. Jim Schulte President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Wed Oct 10 13:15:46 2012 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 21:15:46 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 References: Message-ID: <5297C43F538E4A77A106F3BD7543098A@uw471de61b465c> Hi Jim, I can ask my British friends, where I stayed last year during my summer vacation. The lady drives an MG 1100 occasionally (in fact rallying). her husband does all the work on the car. Both are involved in classic British cars. The lady's dad was a Jaguar works driver on the D-Type! Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Schulte" To: "Mgs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 4:59 PM Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 > Folks,I am looking for a repair manual for an MG 1100. Anyone have one for > sale or can recommend a used copy somewhere. > > Jim Schulte > President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club From mg_garage at comcast.net Wed Oct 10 14:42:36 2012 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:42:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <458BC112DE24487A8B872CC50B1B3563@stargate> Have you tried LBCarCo? It seems I recall seeing some 1100 manuals last time I was in the 'warehouse'. If not, Jeff may have a source for one. www.lbcarco.com Gordie '62 MGA -------------------------------------------------- From: "James Schulte" Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:59 AM To: "Mgs at autox.team.net" Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 > Folks,I am looking for a repair manual for an MG 1100. Anyone have one for > sale or can recommend a used copy somewhere. > > Jim Schulte > President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net From castlekeep52 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 14 13:15:07 2012 From: castlekeep52 at yahoo.com (Burwell Pike) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 12:15:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] V8 Bugeye on Ebay Message-ID: <1350242107.49917.YahooMailClassic@web122903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hi All, There is a V8 bugeye on Ebay (230864582910) that looks to be well done but, a dite overpowering. No financial interest, just found it interesting. Castle From guinness at stclegal.com Sat Oct 20 19:25:10 2012 From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:25:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery Message-ID: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> I have an MGA 1600 with an MGB 1800 3 main engine and a DM2 distributor from the original 1600 engine. It was missing badly when I parked it. Then I could not start it at all and had mammoth backfires out the tailpipe. Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully adjusted out. A club member suggested that the distributor bearing was wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base clamp and installed it. Static timed it with the rotor pointing to the #1 wire, but same result. Getting good gas flow to carbs. Compression all between 110 and 120. Spark plugs had velvety black soot. I got used another DM2 with the same result. I installed a new Lucas 25D, same result. Then I switched the wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3 figuring it was 180 out. Bingo, it purred like a kitten. Mystery. How could the distributor drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it? I had replace the points twice before by taking the distributor out and static timing it with the rotor at the #1 plug. I am flummoxed. Any clues? -- e-mail signature Robert Guinness Guinness & Buehler, LLC 2850 West Clay St., Suite 210 St. Charles, MO 63301 636-947-7711 CONFIDENTIALITY NOTE: This e-mail and any attachments are confidential and may be protected by legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us immediately by returning it to the sender and delete this copy from your system. The Missouri Bar Disciplinary Counsel also requires all Missouri lawyers to notify all recipients of e-mail that (1) e-mail communications is not a secure method of communication, (2) any e-mail that is sent to you or by you may be copied and held by various computers it passes through as it goes from sender to recipient, (3) persons not participating in our communication may intercept our communications by improperly accessing your computer or my computer or even some computer unconnected to either of us which the e-mail passes through. I am communicating to you via e-mail because you have consented to receive communications via this medium. If you change your mind and want future communications to be sent in a different fashion, please contact me AT ONCE. Thank you for your cooperation. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Oct 21 04:19:34 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 11:19:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> Message-ID: As the points weren't opening on the original distributor, that was the original problem. You then fitted several distributors. If you didn't remove the plug leads from either the plugs or the original cap (did you reuse that with each of the replacement distributors?) then the assembly of the rotor and the drive shaft of the original distributor was 180 degrees different to the others you tried. Whether it is right now or not is another matter. Static timing with the pulley mark by the appropriate pointer will show the points opening when No.1 *or* No.4 pistons are at TDC, but only one of those will be on its *compression* stroke. You determine that by removing the plug from No.1 cylinder, putting your thumb over the hole, and turning the engine until compression pushes your thumb off, then turn to TDC. If the rotor is now pointing to about 2 o'clock, then either drive gear and distributor assembly are both correct, or both 180 degrees out. If it's pointing to about 8 o'clock then one or other is 180 degrees out. Whether it is worth doing anything about it is another matter. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully > adjusted out. A club member suggested that the distributor bearing was > wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base clamp > and installed it. ... I got used another DM2 with the same result. I > installed a new Lucas 25D, same > result. Then I switched the wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3 > figuring it was 180 out. Bingo, it purred like a kitten. Mystery. How > could the distributor drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it? From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 21 10:59:04 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:59:04 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Sweet! Message-ID: <508429D8.904@bradakis.com> I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving problem. It seems to be working once again. Click on the archive link and check it out. There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but the basic functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour. It will be a while before I get all the missing mail back in there, should be done sometime during the week. And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a few pennies and nickles for a celebratory beverage. Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty IPA or a some of their Imperial Red... mjb. From mvheim at sonic.net Sat Oct 20 20:07:32 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:07:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery In-Reply-To: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> Message-ID: Because the DPO had put the drive gear in the wrong way, and "compensated" by rearranging the plug wires. You didn't find this out until you tried a different distributor. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/20/12 6:25 PM, Robert J. Guinness at guinness at stclegal.com wrote: > I have an MGA 1600 with an MGB 1800 3 main engine and a DM2 distributor > from the original 1600 engine. It was missing badly when I parked it. > Then I could not start it at all and had mammoth backfires out the > tailpipe. Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully > adjusted out. A club member suggested that the distributor bearing was > wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base clamp > and installed it. Static timed it with the rotor pointing to the #1 > wire, but same result. Getting good gas flow to carbs. Compression all > between 110 and 120. Spark plugs had velvety black soot. I got used > another DM2 with the same result. I installed a new Lucas 25D, same > result. Then I switched the wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3 > figuring it was 180 out. Bingo, it purred like a kitten. Mystery. How > could the distributor drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it? I > had replace the points twice before by taking the distributor out and > static timing it with the rotor at the #1 plug. I am flummoxed. Any clues? From g.schnittke at comcast.net Sun Oct 21 15:22:48 2012 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 16:22:48 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery Message-ID: <508467A8.20608@comcast.net> There are three ways to get the distributor 180d out; the drive gear, the wires and the dog. Others have mentioned getting the drive gear out and making sure the #1 piston is on the COMPRESSION stroke. The other way it can happen is if someone rebuilt the distributor and got the drive dog back on 180 out. It's easy to do, but doesn't sound like that's the case for you. Glenn > Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery > Message-ID:<50834EF6.4050806 at stclegal.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I have an MGA 1600 with an MGB 1800 3 main engine and a DM2 distributor > from the original 1600 engine. From don at napanet.net Mon Oct 22 00:44:29 2012 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 23:44:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Don Hayter interview and book Message-ID: There is a new book out by Don Hayter, the designer of the MGB. The publishing company did a short interview of him which is quite interesting for anyone who is a friend of the marque. I haven't got a copy of the book, but will probably buy one being a great admirer of the MGB design. I still remember the first time I saw a new '63 MGB on display at a county fair when I was a lad and how impressed I was by its beautiful lines. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Don Hayter was educated at Abingdon School, Oxford, winning the Bennett Scholarship to Pembroke College. With the outbreak of WWII he decided to take an apprenticeship in aircraft design at the Pressed Steel Company, Cowley. Attending Oxford Technical College, and attaining a Higher National Certificate in Metallurgy and Engineering, he worked at various aircraft manufacturers, before moving into the car industry after the war. Working on many cars, including the MG Magnette, in 1954 he moved to Aston Martin, working on the design for the DB2/4 and the Lagonda, before moving back to MG's Design & Development department. Promoted to Chief Design & Development Engineer in 1973, he was responsible for the design of the MGB body, and stayed with MG until the closure of its factory in 1980. Don remains passionately enthusiastic about this iconic car, and still runs one himself today. link to interview: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rq7d7G1zQws link to purchase the book: http://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetail.php?prod_id=V4460&prod_group=Cars%20Vans%20&%20Trucks& ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1955 MGTF 1962 MGA Mk 2 1967 MGB 1963-7 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Oct 22 02:41:57 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 09:41:57 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Don Hayter interview and book References: Message-ID: <9DC787DD1BAC43AC854B52BE3832AED0@paul> Me too. Before I saw the MGB I wanted a Sunbeam Alpine. Afterwards I never looked at another car in the same way, but it took me 25 years to get one, and that was 22 years ago. ----- Original Message ----- > ... I still remember the first time I saw a new '63 > MGB on display at a county fair when I was a lad and how impressed I > was by its beautiful lines. From barrie at look.ca Mon Oct 22 08:50:14 2012 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 10:50:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Sweet! In-Reply-To: <508429D8.904@bradakis.com> References: <508429D8.904@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark, See if you can get a good English brew there - Wells IPA !!! At 10:59 AM 10/21/2012 -0600, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net >archiving problem. >It seems to be working once again. Click on the archive link and >check it out. >There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, >but the basic >functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour. >It will be >a while before I get all the missing mail back in there, should be >done sometime >during the week. > >And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use >a few pennies >and nickles for a celebratory beverage. Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty >IPA or a some >of their Imperial Red... > > >mjb. >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From lrc at red4est.com Mon Oct 22 17:30:51 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:30:51 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Engine compartment progress Message-ID: <60A0C961-D4C2-4528-A204-79B774060FC2@red4est.com> I was about to start putting the motor back into Jasmine, my 69 BGT, and took a slight detour to clean the engine compartment up. I used catalyzed paint and a preval canister for spraying. Now that I've done it, I know a lot better how to do a good job, but it's not worth spending another week redoing the paint in the engine compartment. Here's the starting point: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631831705693/ Here it is this afternoon: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631831646349/ Here is the flickr collection of the various sets: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/collections/72157622346827887/ I think that I'm just about ready to set the motor in place, so that I can at least start making sure I have room for everything, and that it is routed cleanly. I also need to start work on a new dashboard, one that is mounted to the rollcage. That may first involve repaininting the rollcage I'm afraid. I'm trying to keep in mind that my goal on the aesthetics is not showcar, but racecar. 50/50 would work, I'm going for 20/20. -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From lrc at red4est.com Mon Oct 22 17:34:53 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:34:53 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass Message-ID: <443F951E-6F7C-4221-B988-2B209A289421@red4est.com> Back in college Paul Kile and I used to call our house the Rod & Spanner. We even had a crest for the house, which eventually being partial inspiration for the SOL crest. My girlfriend just commissioned someone to do the crest in stained glass. I'm quite stoked. Here's a picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/8101962183/in/set-72157631803581942 >From the set: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631803581942/ -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From crk at godblessthe.us Mon Oct 22 17:40:37 2012 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:40:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery In-Reply-To: References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> Message-ID: <00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us> Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1 oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused like this. If the distributor is 180 degrees out, one only need change the wires around. In fact, you could technically put the distributor in in any orientation and as long as you get cyl 1 tdc on the compression stroke and turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition wire you would be ok. Of course, you may have problems with the vacuum advance alignment but that is a different story. I think it basically comes down to everybody agreeing to one convention like driving on the left side of the road is wrong:>) Clayton -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PaulHunt73 Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 3:20 AM To: Robert J. Guinness; MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery As the points weren't opening on the original distributor, that was the original problem. You then fitted several distributors. If you didn't remove the plug leads from either the plugs or the original cap (did you reuse that with each of the replacement distributors?) then the assembly of the rotor and the drive shaft of the original distributor was 180 degrees different to the others you tried. Whether it is right now or not is another matter. Static timing with the pulley mark by the appropriate pointer will show the points opening when No.1 *or* No.4 pistons are at TDC, but only one of those will be on its *compression* stroke. You determine that by removing the plug from No.1 cylinder, putting your thumb over the hole, and turning the engine until compression pushes your thumb off, then turn to TDC. If the rotor is now pointing to about 2 o'clock, then either drive gear and distributor assembly are both correct, or both 180 degrees out. If it's pointing to about 8 o'clock then one or other is 180 degrees out. Whether it is worth doing anything about it is another matter. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully > adjusted out. A club member suggested that the distributor bearing > was wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base > clamp and installed it. ... I got used another DM2 with the same > result. I installed a new Lucas 25D, same result. Then I switched the > wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3 figuring it was 180 out. > Bingo, it purred like a kitten. Mystery. How could the distributor > drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/crk at godblessthe.us From mark at bradakis.com Mon Oct 22 17:59:10 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:59:10 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass In-Reply-To: <443F951E-6F7C-4221-B988-2B209A289421@red4est.com> References: <443F951E-6F7C-4221-B988-2B209A289421@red4est.com> Message-ID: <5085DDCE.60109@bradakis.com> Very nice! mjb. From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Oct 22 18:48:38 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:48:38 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass In-Reply-To: <443F951E-6F7C-4221-B988-2B209A289421@red4est.com> Message-ID: That's very cool! on 10/22/12 4:34 PM, Larry Colen at lrc at red4est.com wrote: > Back in college Paul Kile and I used to call our house the Rod & Spanner. We > even had a crest for the house, which eventually being partial inspiration for > the SOL crest. My girlfriend just commissioned someone to do the crest in > stained glass. I'm quite stoked. > > Here's a picture: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/8101962183/in/set-72157631803581942 > > From the set: > http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631803581942/ > > -- > Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est > _______________________________________________ -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Oct 22 18:54:30 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:54:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery In-Reply-To: <00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us> Message-ID: It's the vacuum advance position. The limits to rotation are the starter, the heater valve, and of course how much slack you have in the vacuum hose. With the gear 180 degrees out, the vac advance knob will be in an awkward position, and you may not be able to dial in all the advance you want because the pot is hitting something. I struggled with this for some time before finally sorting it out. There was a reason for the factory orientation. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/22/12 4:40 PM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk at godblessthe.us wrote: > Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the > distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1 > oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused > like this. If the distributor is 180 degrees out, one only need change the > wires around. In fact, you could technically put the distributor in in any > orientation and as long as you get cyl 1 tdc on the compression stroke and > turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition wire > you would be ok. Of course, you may have problems with the vacuum advance > alignment but that is a different story. I think it basically comes down to > everybody agreeing to one convention like driving on the left side of the > road is wrong:>) > > Clayton > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of PaulHunt73 > Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 3:20 AM > To: Robert J. Guinness; MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery > > As the points weren't opening on the original distributor, that was the > original problem. You then fitted several distributors. If you didn't > remove the plug leads from either the plugs or the original cap (did you > reuse that with each of the replacement distributors?) then the assembly of > the rotor and the drive shaft of the original distributor was 180 degrees > different to the others you tried. > > Whether it is right now or not is another matter. Static timing with the > pulley mark by the appropriate pointer will show the points opening when > No.1 *or* No.4 pistons are at TDC, but only one of those will be on its > *compression* stroke. You determine that by removing the plug from No.1 > cylinder, putting your thumb over the hole, and turning the engine until > compression pushes your thumb off, then turn to TDC. If the rotor is now > pointing to about 2 o'clock, then either drive gear and distributor assembly > are both correct, or both 180 degrees out. If it's pointing to about 8 > o'clock then one or other is 180 degrees out. Whether it is worth doing > anything about it is another matter. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> ... Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully >> adjusted out. A club member suggested that the distributor bearing >> was wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base >> clamp and installed it. ... I got used another DM2 with the same >> result. I installed a new Lucas 25D, same result. Then I switched the >> wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3 figuring it was 180 out. >> Bingo, it purred like a kitten. Mystery. How could the distributor >> drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it? From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Oct 23 01:43:58 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 08:43:58 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> <00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us> Message-ID: <4AF7B11A6787488EACB8B1382F34A4C8@paul> Quite. It's a convention. As the distributor will only fully engage with the drive gear in one position it is only of use when changing caps ... or removing plug leads from cap and/or plugs ... or installing a different distributor ... Come to think of it that's quite a few 'only's, and a bit like 'What did the Romans do for us?'. However with the distributor inserted and the drive dog engaged with the gear you can turn the body all you like but the rotor won't move. That's why you have to move the leads round the cap if the distributor assembly or drive gear orientation aren't as they were when the engine last ran. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the > distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1 > oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused > like this. > ... turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition > wire From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Oct 23 04:56:20 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 03:56:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass In-Reply-To: <443F951E-6F7C-4221-B988-2B209A289421@red4est.com> References: <443F951E-6F7C-4221-B988-2B209A289421@red4est.com> Message-ID: <1350989780.80890.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Love it, Larry! Dan D '76 B Driver '65 B Project Central NJ USA ________________________________ From: Larry Colen To: MG List Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 7:34 PM Subject: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass Back in college Paul Kile and I used to call our house the Rod & Spanner. We even had a crest for the house, which eventually being partial inspiration for the SOL crest. My girlfriend just commissioned someone to do the crest in stained glass. I'm quite stoked. Here's a picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/8101962183/in/set-72157631803581942 >From the set: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631803581942/ -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Tue Oct 23 05:47:27 2012 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:47:27 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery In-Reply-To: <00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us> References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> <00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us> Message-ID: <012101cdb114$2d2d53e0$8787fba0$@com> You are probably correct in this application, but... I would not generalize this to all engines. I seem to recall something about the lobe timing being different on some engines, but I do not recall the application just now. It may have been high performance air cooled engines trying to control the heat so different timing per cylinder. -- Stephen West-Fisher N4IK -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clayton Kirkwood Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 7:41 PM To: 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1 oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused like this. If the distributor is 180 degrees out, one only need change the wires around. In fact, you could technically put the distributor in in any orientation and as long as you get cyl 1 tdc on the compression stroke and turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition wire you would be ok. Of course, you may have problems with the vacuum advance alignment but that is a different story. I think it basically comes down to everybody agreeing to one convention like driving on the left side of the road is wrong:>) Clayton From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Oct 23 06:41:03 2012 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 05:41:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery In-Reply-To: <012101cdb114$2d2d53e0$8787fba0$@com> References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> <00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us> <012101cdb114$2d2d53e0$8787fba0$@com> Message-ID: <0B58AE60-5BD6-47B7-9A39-20E3D8919105@gmail.com> Air cooled VWs had different timing on the #3 cylinder. The oil cooler sat on top of #3 so it naturally ran hotter. By playing with the cam and ignition timing they tried to get it to create less heat in that cylinder. This is why AC VWs have such an odd sounding idle. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 23, 2012, at 4:47, "Stephen West-Fisher" wrote: > You are probably correct in this application, but... > I would not generalize this to all engines. I seem to recall something about > the lobe timing being different on some engines, but I do not recall the > application just now. From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Tue Oct 23 06:52:50 2012 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 08:52:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery In-Reply-To: <0B58AE60-5BD6-47B7-9A39-20E3D8919105@gmail.com> References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com> <00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us> <012101cdb114$2d2d53e0$8787fba0$@com> <0B58AE60-5BD6-47B7-9A39-20E3D8919105@gmail.com> Message-ID: <015501cdb11d$4fa0ab30$eee20190$@com> I was thinking VW, but I haven't worked on aircooled VWs since the early '70s. One that would come in was a dragster, around 200 hp that didn't have anything installed if it didn't provide power. Including the cooling system. It only had to run for a minute or two at a time :-) -- Stephen West-Fisher N4IK -----Original Message----- From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 8:41 AM To: Stephen West-Fisher Cc: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery Air cooled VWs had different timing on the #3 cylinder. The oil cooler sat on top of #3 so it naturally ran hotter. By playing with the cam and ignition timing they tried to get it to create less heat in that cylinder. This is why AC VWs have such an odd sounding idle. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 23, 2012, at 4:47, "Stephen West-Fisher" wrote: > You are probably correct in this application, but... > I would not generalize this to all engines. I seem to recall something > about the lobe timing being different on some engines, but I do not > recall the application just now. From barrie at look.ca Wed Oct 24 10:03:48 2012 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:03:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Message-ID: >This great !! > >http://youtu.be/7OJe-eTH9NE Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Wed Oct 24 12:33:25 2012 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:33:25 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MGB In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005601cdb216$0df61c70$29e25550$@planet.nl> I wish I could rebuild a car a fast as this movie shows.... -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Barrie Robinson Verzonden: woensdag 24 oktober 2012 18:04 Aan: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: [Mgs] MGB >This great !! > >http://youtu.be/7OJe-eTH9NE Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From lrc at red4est.com Thu Oct 25 02:19:47 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 01:19:47 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news Message-ID: Good news: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/ Jasmine's motor is in place. Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the fly wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear, would move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it closed the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or anything like that. Maybe, if I can bleed the clutch lines, I can jiggle the throwout bearing and get things to pop into place. Even if not, there are a lot of basic "fitting things into place" tasks I can do. The headers are a bit long and tend to hang to low, with the motor in place like this I can take everything down to holiday muffler and see if they can modify the headers so that they work. There are also some questions about radiator placement, if I want to move it, ducting cool air to the carb and so forth, which I don't need the car running, but need the motor in place for. The transmission is a Ford 5-speed, if that matters. I did find the pilot bushing, or rather bushings. The aluminum piece and the bronze piece that goes inside of it and is an interference fit. -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From ccrobins at ktc.com Thu Oct 25 06:23:20 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:23:20 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50892F38.5050109@ktc.com> The bad news is that if opening the bleed valve on the slave cylinder doesn't let the throwout arm retract, the engine/gearbox probably need to come back out so that you can see why the clutch disengaged when you cinched the gearbox up to the engine. Has this engine/gearbox combo worked before? CR On 10/25/2012 3:19 AM, Larry Colen wrote: > Good news: > http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/ > > Jasmine's motor is in place. > > Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the fly > wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear, would > move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the > transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it closed > the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or > anything like that. From grunt3333 at verizon.net Thu Oct 25 07:17:29 2012 From: grunt3333 at verizon.net (grunt3333 at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 08:17:29 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news Message-ID: <7549771.844852.1351171049514.JavaMail.root@vznit170176> /local/mailman/lynxXXXXGIwh3a: Permission denied From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Oct 25 07:21:38 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 14:21:38 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news References: Message-ID: <2DC259DB205D42C9B4D388E612DC3473@paul> Are you sure you don't have the friction plate the wrong way round? The wrong way it is the projecting centre and damper springs that rest on the flywheel, not the friction material. That also means the cover plate has to be bolted up quite a bit more that it should, which is normally about 1/4". You certainly shouldn't have to pull the engine and bellhousing together with bolts, and unless you do all of them together or nearly so you can damage things. That said I don't know about a non-standard gearbox. Air in the hydraulics won't prevent the rear wheels turning the engine - when it is in gear! - quite the opposite, you wouldn't be able to disengage the clutch when you push the pedal down. You should be able to move the release arm sticking out of the bell housing back and fore, with a little pressure if there is no air in the hydraulics as it is then pushing excess fluid back into the master (watch it doesn't overflow). It may be because the slave push-rod is too long for this gearbox, the piston has bottomed, which could explain why you had to pull the two halves together with bolts, also why the clutch is now disengaged. If you can't push the pushrod any further back into the cylinder, and the release arm has no free play or movement, that could well be the case. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the > fly > wheel. From lrc at red4est.com Thu Oct 25 12:20:59 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 11:20:59 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved Message-ID: Begin forwarded message: > From: Charley & Peggy Robinson > Date: October 25, 2012 5:23:20 AM PDT > To: Larry Colen > Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news > Reply-To: ccrobins at ktc.com > > The bad news is that if opening the bleed valve on the slave cylinder doesn't let the throwout arm retract, the engine/gearbox probably need to come back out so that you can see why the clutch disengaged when you cinched the gearbox up to the engine. Has this engine/gearbox combo worked before? Yup, I put about 5,000 miles on it before having to take the motor apart. Even used the same pressure plate and disk. > > CR > > On 10/25/2012 3:19 AM, Larry Colen wrote: >> Good news: >> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/ >> >> Jasmine's motor is in place. >> >> Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the fly >> wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear, would >> move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the >> transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it closed >> the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or >> anything like that. >> >> > > Begin forwarded message: > From: "PaulHunt73" > Date: October 25, 2012 6:21:38 AM PDT > To: "Larry Colen" , "MG List" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news > > Are you sure you don't have the friction plate the wrong way round? The wrong way it is the projecting centre and damper springs that rest on the flywheel, not the friction material. That also means the cover plate has to be bolted up quite a bit more that it should, which is normally about 1/4". Yes. I'm sure. > > You certainly shouldn't have to pull the engine and bellhousing together with bolts, and unless you do all of them together or nearly so you can damage things. That said I don't know about a non-standard gearbox. > > Air in the hydraulics won't prevent the rear wheels turning the engine - when it is in gear! - quite the opposite, you wouldn't be able to disengage the clutch when you push the pedal down. You should be able to move the release arm sticking out of the bell housing back and fore, with a little pressure if there is no air in the hydraulics as it is then pushing excess fluid back into the master (watch it doesn't overflow). > > It may be because the slave push-rod is too long for this gearbox, the piston has bottomed, which could explain why you had to pull the two halves together with bolts, also why the clutch is now disengaged. If you can't push the pushrod any further back into the cylinder, and the release arm has no free play or movement, that could well be the case. This was about the closest. The car sat for about 10 years, it seems that the slave extended a bit, went dry and rusted in place. I pulled the slave cylinder and everything popped into place and worked fine. This also explained why it felt like I was pulling the bellhousing and engine together against springs. -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From thgun at comporium.net Thu Oct 25 15:57:52 2012 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:57:52 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid Message-ID: <31F43CC41B5548AAB0412765224C0A9F@OwnerPC> I have a 1957 MGA 1500 rst. I do not know what type of brake fluid that in in my car. How can I check it? Tom Gunderson From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Oct 25 16:17:05 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 15:17:05 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <31F43CC41B5548AAB0412765224C0A9F@OwnerPC> Message-ID: If you mean, is it glycol-based or silicone-based, I suppose you could remove a sample, place it in a glass container, and drip some water into it. If it is absorbed (if it mixes in when you stir it), it is glycol. If it does the oil-and-water thing and refuses to mix, it is silicone. Be aware I am proposing this out of my knowledge of chemical principles -- I have never tried it with an actual sample. I can't think of any way of distinguishing between DOT 3 and DOT 4 glycol fluid, but it wouldn't really matter, if you just flushed and refilled. on 10/25/12 2:57 PM, Tom Gunderson at thgun at comporium.net wrote: > I have a 1957 MGA 1500 rst. I do not know what type of brake fluid that in in > my car. How can I check it? > Tom Gunderson -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From thgun at comporium.net Thu Oct 25 16:27:44 2012 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 18:27:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch Message-ID: The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master cylinder is low and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20 minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line. Tom From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 25 16:36:45 2012 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:36:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Slipping would not be caused by low fluid. Unless the fluid is low because it leaked into the clutch and soaked the disc. On Oct 25, 2012, at 5:27 PM, Tom Gunderson wrote: > The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master cylinder is low > and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20 > minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level > could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line. > Tom > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From mgbob at juno.com Thu Oct 25 16:56:31 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 22:56:31 GMT Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch Message-ID: <20121025.185631.20111.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Tom, Loss of fluid from the clutch hydraulic system is unlikely to be the cause of a slipping clutch. All the plumbing is exterior to the clutch friction surfaces. To check for leaks at the slave cylinder, peel back the rubber dust boot. If fluid drips, you have found the leak. A slipping clutch, if caused by fluid leaking, is most likely to be oil from rear main seal of the engine. Check that a split pin is loose in the hole at the bottom of the clutch housing, so that oil inside can drip out. Another possibility is that the hose has started to deteriorate inside, having formed a one way flapper valve from a bit of loose inner liner. Test for this is to see if slipping occurs right after gear change and does not happen with full throttle a few seconds after the gear change. The time has allowed fluid to get past the flapper valve and for the clutch to fully engage. A slipping clutch may, alas, be worn out also. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Tom Gunderson" To: "Mga List" Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 18:27:44 -0400 The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master cylinder is low and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20 minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line. Tom _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From thgun at comporium.net Thu Oct 25 17:28:25 2012 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 19:28:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch Message-ID: Where can I find info to replace the cluch? 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Also I see that my ignition lamp in the speedometer stays on and battery is low. This car sits alot in the garage. Tom Gunderson From mgbob at juno.com Thu Oct 25 17:49:21 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 23:49:21 GMT Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch Message-ID: <20121025.194921.26513.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Workshop manual is a good place to start. Clutch replacement I pretty straightforward. Replace the entire assembly, and throw out bearing, and the hose, and rebuild slave cylinder. It's all accessible, ans engine, clutch and gearbox come out together. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Tom Gunderson" To: "Mga List" Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 19:28:25 -0400 Where can I find info to replace the cluch? 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Also I see that my ignition lamp in the speedometer stays on and battery is low. This car sits alot in the garage. Tom Gunderson _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From ccrobins at ktc.com Thu Oct 25 19:56:36 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 20:56:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5089EDD4.4020000@ktc.com> Are you saying that you took this engine and gearbox out of a car they had been running in and put them into another that had been sitting for 10 years and you used the clutch slave cylinder from the car that had been sitting for 10 years without inspecting it? Good grief! CR From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Oct 25 20:06:07 2012 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 21:06:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201210260206.q9Q264eO011626@nlpi162.prodigy.net> Low brake fluid will not cause slippage. There is no way for fluid to get from a leaky slave cylinder into the clutch friction disc space inside the bellhousing. If fluid in the master cylinder goes low enough to introduce air in the pipe, then the clutch will not release. Worn out friction disc can cause slipping. Oil on the friction disc can cause slipping. Oil can come from leaking engine rear scroll seal or from leaking gearbox front scroll seal (or rubber seal on later models). Since the gearbox uses engine oil, and it drips from the same point on bottom of bellhousing, it may be difficult to tell where the oil originates (unless you use different color oil in the gearbox). Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 06:27 PM 10/25/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master >cylinder is low and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the >car for about 15 or 20 minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was >wondering if low fluid level could cause this. Maybe having lower >preasure in the cluch line. >.... From dwoerpel at wi.net Thu Oct 25 22:26:53 2012 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 23:26:53 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49875.173.110.4.227.1351225613.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Looks very nice Larry. Listers: I have a Bugeye and an MGA 1500 and my firing order is 1-3-4-2 and I believe the MGB is also. Your distributor orientation looks correct (vacuum advance in the 10 o'clock position) but your plug leads don't look correct. I think the #1 wire should be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor then going counter-clockwise, the #3 wire, then #4, then #2. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe your distributor drive is 180* out?? Just something in the picture didn't look right and trying to save you some trouble. Anybody else?? Just butting in.... Dave W. > Good news: > http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/ > > Jasmine's motor is in place. > > Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the > fly From shop at justbrits.com Thu Oct 25 23:05:01 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 00:05:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news In-Reply-To: <49875.173.110.4.227.1351225613.squirrel@wm.wi.net> References: <49875.173.110.4.227.1351225613.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Message-ID: <508A19FD.1070200@justbrits.com> << On 10/25/2012 11:26 PM, dwoerpel at wi.net wrote: .......but your plug leads don't look correct. I think the #1 wire should be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor then going counter-clockwise, the #3 wire, then #4, then #2. >> Unless my eyes are SO shot from looking at a BMC Parts Catalogue with it's -10 point font print, all but # 3 are wrong, Dave ! ! ! The way I see it (counter-clockwise): Dist. # 1 goes to Plug # 2 Dist. # 4 goes to Plug # 1 Dist. # 3 goes to Plug # 3 Dist. # 2 goes to Plug # 4 BUT, dizzy DOES look incorrectly 'positioned' ! ! ! Larry, Dave is correct in that #1 wire (cap) should be at 1:00 o'clock ! ! Yours looks to be at close to 3:00 o'clock ? ! ? HOW did you put the dizzy "drive shaft" in ????????? Have you turned to motor since you FIRST installed timing chain (with dots aligned)??? GREAT lookin' job ! ! ! Question: Can't tell for SURE, but are there rubber 'o' rings under cyl. head nuts as visible in last picture ?? I tried to enlarge, but............ ! ! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Oct 26 01:44:53 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 08:44:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved References: Message-ID: Good to hear. That was well rusted! ----- Original Message ----- > This was about the closest. The car sat for about 10 years, it seems that > the > slave extended a bit, went dry and rusted in place. I pulled the slave > cylinder and everything popped into place and worked fine. This also > explained why it felt like I was pulling the bellhousing and engine > together > against springs. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Oct 26 02:13:53 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:13:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch References: Message-ID: There is no pressure in the hydraulics when the clutch pedal is released. However if anything *were* causing there to be pressure, then the clutch could slip. Like brakes, the flex hose could be delaminating internally and acting as a one-way valve, holding pressure after the pedal is released. If you pump the clutch with the engine hot, then open the bleed valve and get a spurt of fluid, then that is the likely cause. OTOH it could simply be a worn clutch, which is also accompanied by a high biting point. Slipping is usually evident on hard acceleration in 4th gear first, becoming more noticeable on lesser acceleration and lower gears as it wears more. In my experience oil on the clutch cause grabbing, not slipping. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20 > minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level > could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Oct 26 02:41:07 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid References: Message-ID: <4BCD9D52EA9F4B2B9A701B2D803CF903@paul> DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, so you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching between these is not a trivial task. I've never been able to understand why a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was a development of silicone, and not DOT6. Water mixes pretty-well instantly with glycol based, never had silicone to try. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I can't think of any way of distinguishing between DOT 3 and DOT 4 glycol > fluid, but it wouldn't really matter, if you just flushed and refilled. From mgbob at juno.com Fri Oct 26 09:31:53 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 15:31:53 GMT Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid Message-ID: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Silicone separates quite visibly. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "PaulHunt73" To: "Max Heim" , "MG List" Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100 DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, so you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching between these is not a trivial task. I've never been able to understand why a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was a development of silicone, and not DOT6. Water mixes pretty-well instantly with glycol based, never had silicone to try. PaulH. From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Oct 26 10:03:21 2012 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:03:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1351267401.77462.YahooMailClassic@web163902.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Thu, 10/25/12, Max Heim wrote: > If it is absorbed (if it mixes in when you stir it), it is > glycol. If it > does the oil-and-water thing and refuses to mix, it is > silicone. > > Be aware I am proposing this out of my knowledge of chemical > principles -- I > have never tried it with an actual sample. While we're on the subject of brake fluid, what ever happened to Girling brake fluid, anyway? Why was it pulled from the market? Was it found to cause cancer when given intravenously to adolescent manatees or something? From don at napanet.net Fri Oct 26 17:47:04 2012 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 16:47:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oil on the clutch always caused slipping in my experience. Back when I was a young guy and my MGA had this problem, learned how to remove its engine because of this issue. Once the disc has oil on it, it's not gonna work properly, will slip especially when in high gear and you step on the accelerator. At 01:13 AM 10/26/2012, PaulHunt73 wrote: >There is no pressure in the hydraulics when the clutch pedal is >released. However if anything *were* causing there to be pressure, >then the clutch could slip. Like brakes, the flex hose could be >delaminating internally and acting as a one-way valve, holding >pressure after the pedal is released. If you pump the clutch with >the engine hot, then open the bleed valve and get a spurt of fluid, >then that is the likely cause. OTOH it could simply be a worn >clutch, which is also accompanied by a high biting point. Slipping >is usually evident on hard acceleration in 4th gear first, becoming >more noticeable on lesser acceleration and lower gears as it wears >more. In my experience oil on the clutch cause grabbing, not slipping. > >PaulH. > >----- Original Message ----- >>... Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20 >>minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level >>could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line. >_______________________________________________ From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sat Oct 27 02:05:11 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 09:05:11 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid References: <1351267401.77462.YahooMailClassic@web163902.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5539C650A36F405FBC7429117781AB87@paul> Possibly better known under the Lucas name today - yes, Lucas brakes ... ----- Original Message ----- > While we're on the subject of brake fluid, what ever > happened to Girling brake fluid, anyway? From thgun at comporium.net Sat Oct 27 05:19:12 2012 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 07:19:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt Message-ID: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator? 1957 MGA 1500 Tom From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sat Oct 27 08:40:41 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 15:40:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <0EC9C64C3C494360BDD190C1E539D99C@paul> Depends how original you want it to be, and whether the output of the dynamo is sufficient for your usage. These cars ran perfectly well for many years, and many still do, on dynamos, alternators were required for the higher loads of more modern cars. A similar question is often asked of MGBs, and that is "should I uprate my alternator?", and the answer is just the same. I've never had a problem with the factory-rated alts on either of mine. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator? > 1957 MGA 1500 From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Oct 27 09:04:54 2012 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 10:04:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt In-Reply-To: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net> Generator is often cheap and easy to repair, commonly only needs brushes. However, if the generator is melted inside due to a failed control box, that would be a good time to consider the alternator conversion. In recent years replacement control boxes have been notoriously unreliable. When a regulator relay fails, the bad $40 control box takes out a good $100 generaor along with it. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 07:19 AM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator? >1957 MGA 1500 From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 27 11:48:02 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 12:48:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: [.H.ealeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <508C1E52.1010803@justbrits.com> WOW ! ! ! There are several others on same page worth watching if you like "Warbirds" ! ! -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Healeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT. Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 12:18:50 -0400 From: Michael Salter To: healeys at autox.team.net Amazing what the combination of American financing and Kiwi ingenuity can achieve. Turn up the sound and enjoy those Merlins!! http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120 -- Michael Salter *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!* _______________________________________________ From thgun at comporium.net Sat Oct 27 18:31:25 2012 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 20:31:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] GEN rebuild Message-ID: <3BB3D2E6BD674E8BB46CE7FF7E72D0ED@OwnerPC> Do I need to remove the radiator to remove the gen? It is very hard to get your hand and wrench to the lower front bolt on the gen. 1957 mga 1500 Tom From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Oct 27 19:36:16 2012 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 20:36:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] GEN rebuild In-Reply-To: <3BB3D2E6BD674E8BB46CE7FF7E72D0ED@OwnerPC> References: <3BB3D2E6BD674E8BB46CE7FF7E72D0ED@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <201210280136.q9S1aDwL026601@nlpi162.prodigy.net> No. Just make like you are adjusting the belt tension. Use a 9/16" open end wrench in your finger tips. A good light helps. At 08:31 PM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >Do I need to remove the radiator to remove the gen? It is very hard >to get your hand and wrench to the lower front bolt on the gen. >1957 mga 1500 >.... From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sun Oct 28 03:34:53 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 09:34:53 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: [.H.ealeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT. References: <508C1E52.1010803@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4FE74A0D634142FC9A86B06FFBBC0147@paul> Brilliant! Now that's another one I'd really like to see and hear, after the Vampire and Vulcan earlier this year. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Turn up the sound and enjoy those Merlins!! > > http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120 -- From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Oct 28 11:11:49 2012 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 18:11:49 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl> I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done, eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water. Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into the cylinder bores. So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens mgbob at juno.com Verzonden: vrijdag 26 oktober 2012 17:32 Aan: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com CC: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid Silicone separates quite visibly. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "PaulHunt73" To: "Max Heim" , "MG List" Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100 DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, so you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching between these is not a trivial task. I've never been able to understand why a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was a development of silicone, and not DOT6. Water mixes pretty-well instantly with glycol based, never had silicone to try. PaulH. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl From dave at ranteer.com Sun Oct 28 11:55:10 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 12:55:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl> References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> <002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <9425B5D1F683484DB8D18F0BB20322F1@Datsun> you must live in a very wet environment. I live in an environment with relatively high humidity in the summer, and have driven cars for years (one over 10) with no issues at all. you are in Holland, right? do you leave the car in one of those fields they regularly flood ? -----Original Message----- From: Hans Duinhoven Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 12:11 PM To: mgbob at juno.com ; paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done, eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water. Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into the cylinder bores. So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT From bobmgtd at comcast.net Sun Oct 28 13:29:43 2012 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:29:43 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> <201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net> Message-ID: <9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr> I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built in. Relay type regulators, that generators use, are the weakest link in the charging system, IMHO. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" To: "Tom Gunderson" ; "Mga List" Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 11:04 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt > Generator is often cheap and easy to repair, commonly only needs brushes. > However, if the generator is melted inside due to a failed control box, > that would be a good time to consider the alternator conversion. In > recent years replacement control boxes have been notoriously unreliable. > When a regulator relay fails, the bad $40 control box takes out a good > $100 generaor along with it. > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http://MGAguru.com > > > At 07:19 AM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >>If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator? >>1957 MGA 1500 > _______________________________________________ From bobmgtd at comcast.net Sun Oct 28 13:47:49 2012 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:47:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> <002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: I keep hearing two different opinions about Dot 5. Either: Dot 5 is terrible because it does not mix with water. Or: Dot 5 is wonderful because it does not mix with water. Take your pick! BTW, I've had good luck with Dot 5 in my TD over the past 10 years without replacement. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hans Duinhoven" To: ; Cc: Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 1:11 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid >I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done, > eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water. > Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into > the cylinder bores. > So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted. > > Cheers, > > Hans > 71 BGT > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens > mgbob at juno.com > Verzonden: vrijdag 26 oktober 2012 17:32 > Aan: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com > CC: mgs at autox.team.net > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid > > > Silicone separates quite visibly. > Bob > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "PaulHunt73" > To: "Max Heim" , "MG List" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid > Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100 > > DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, > so > you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd > one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching > between these is not a trivial task. I've never been able to understand > why > a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was > a > development of silicone, and not DOT6. Water mixes pretty-well instantly > with glycol based, never had silicone to try. > > PaulH. > _______________________________________________ From mgbob at juno.com Sun Oct 28 17:27:38 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 23:27:38 GMT Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid Message-ID: <20121028.192738.32477.1@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> My experience is as Hans's. I needed to have White Post sleeve all six wheel cylinders in my TD. Condensation forms in these vented systems. With DOT5 (silicone) it can travel to low points in the system, so one must bleed a tablespoon of water/brake fluid from time to time. Bo ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Dave" To: Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 12:55:10 -0500 you must live in a very wet environment. I live in an environment with relatively high humidity in the summer, and have driven cars for years (one over 10) with no issues at all. you are in Holland, right? do you leave the car in one of those fields they regularly flood ? -----Original Message----- From: Hans Duinhoven Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 12:11 PM To: mgbob at juno.com ; paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done, eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water. Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into the cylinder bores. So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From paul at ece.rochester.edu Sun Oct 28 19:11:46 2012 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 21:11:46 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt In-Reply-To: <9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr> References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> <201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net> <9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <01E99907-9DC5-46C2-8A2A-7C50F36D20DF@ece.rochester.edu> BUT, you can purchase a solid state regulator, install it in your relay regulator box , and all looks orig. paul o On Oct 28, 2012, at 3:29 PM, Bob Donahue wrote: > I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built in. Relay type regulators, that generators use, are the weakest link in the charging system, IMHO. > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" > To: "Tom Gunderson" ; "Mga List" > Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 11:04 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt > > >> Generator is often cheap and easy to repair, commonly only needs brushes. However, if the generator is melted inside due to a failed control box, that would be a good time to consider the alternator conversion. In recent years replacement control boxes have been notoriously unreliable. When a regulator relay fails, the bad $40 control box takes out a good $100 generaor along with it. >> >> Barney Gaylord >> 1958 MGA with an attitude >> http://MGAguru.com >> >> >> At 07:19 AM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >>> If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator? >>> 1957 MGA 1500 >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu From lrc at red4est.com Mon Oct 29 00:39:05 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 23:39:05 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved In-Reply-To: <5089EDD4.4020000@ktc.com> References: <5089EDD4.4020000@ktc.com> Message-ID: On Oct 25, 2012, at 6:56 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote: > Are you saying that you took this engine and gearbox out of a car they had been running in and put them into another that had been sitting for 10 years and you used the clutch slave cylinder from the car that had been sitting for 10 years without inspecting it? Good grief! Nope, I left the gearbox in the car when I pulled the engine 10 years ago. I *think* it's the same block. It is the same pressure plate and clutch disk. Over the past 10 years an amazing range of things have come up to block progress. A long series of parts not being available. Then when I couldn't get the car together in time for a race, my throwing a rollcage into what was supposed to be a daily driver miata while I worked on the MG, and turning that into a racecar first, and having a racecar is not conducive to spending time and money on a fancy road car. My being laid off and not having money. My getting a job, but at a start up and not having time. My theoretically having time and money, but spending about eight months working almost full time on home repairs. The most impressive glitch in the schedule was caused by a kid doing something impressively stupid and in the process, crashing his car into my garage. As it turns out, I was in the shed downstairs from the garage when he did it. Despite the impressive carnage, nobody was seriously injured: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157608318554680/ also: http://red4est.com/shedcrash/ It took almost a year of hassle to get the garage back to usability, then two months later Caltrans showed up, said that the work on the drainage had been done without their permits and it had to be taken out and done over. -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From lrc at red4est.com Mon Oct 29 01:01:20 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 00:01:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news In-Reply-To: <508A19FD.1070200@justbrits.com> References: <49875.173.110.4.227.1351225613.squirrel@wm.wi.net> <508A19FD.1070200@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4314923D-9A6F-4DAF-920B-C9EE7C097964@red4est.com> I didn't assemble the motor. It was done by a friend at a race shop. A saga in itself. On Oct 25, 2012, at 10:05 PM, Just Brits Shop wrote: > << On 10/25/2012 11:26 PM, dwoerpel at wi.net wrote: > > .......but your plug leads don't look correct. I think the #1 wire should be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor then going counter-clockwise, the #3 wire, then #4, then #2. >> > > Unless my eyes are SO shot from looking at a BMC Parts Catalogue with it's -10 point font print, all but # 3 are wrong, Dave ! ! ! > > The way I see it (counter-clockwise): > > Dist. # 1 goes to Plug # 2 > Dist. # 4 goes to Plug # 1 > Dist. # 3 goes to Plug # 3 > Dist. # 2 goes to Plug # 4 > > BUT, dizzy DOES look incorrectly 'positioned' ! ! ! > > Larry, Dave is correct in that #1 wire (cap) should be at 1:00 o'clock ! ! > Yours looks to be at close to 3:00 o'clock ? ! ? When I was horsing things around, I found that the adjustment on the dizzy wasn't tightened down, and its position is completely random. I am expecting/planning on setting timing from first principles when I'm a lot closer to being ready to fire it up. Given my preferences, I'd like to pull the dizzy, and the carb, and replace them with a megasquirt system with crank based timing. I'm afraid that probably won't happen in the near future. > > HOW did you put the dizzy "drive shaft" in ????????? I gave a pile of parts to Leroy Lacy and said, "Please make these into a complete motor". Actually I asked about the shop where he was building his GT-2 tiger doing it, but as it turned out he ended up doing it, getting the help of folks at that and the various other race shops right there. > > Have you turned to motor since you FIRST installed timing chain (with dots aligned)??? The motor has turned since then. > > GREAT lookin' job ! ! ! Question: Can't tell for SURE, but are there rubber 'o' rings under > cyl. head nuts as visible in last picture ?? I tried to enlarge, but............ ! ! Nope, those are fancy ARP cylinder head nuts. It's a pretty crazy motor, between the aluminum flywheel, head and backing plate, along with the reduction gear motor, I've knocked fifty static pounds off the motor (probably worth about half a second a lap). I've got a hi-flow (hp-performance) supercharger, pauter rods, Armand Ayala did the crank, venolia pistons, an aluminum head that was ported by Don Redmond (Replicka Machinen), roller rockers, Dima Elgin ground the cam to Hans Pederson's specs, and I've got the special header that Hans developed for the supercharged motors. With what I later discovered was cracked iron head, the previous incarnation of the motor, with the blower, saw 90 hp to the ground, and once peaked at 100. So, I'm hoping to consistently get a little better than 100 to the ground with the ported aluminum head. http://www.red4est.com/jasmine/dyno030304/dyno/dyno13.jpg It was pretty impressive, she'd keep up with the spec miatas on the straights at thunder hill. > > Ed > Please visit MY site at: > www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Oct 29 02:38:44 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 08:38:44 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> <002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <21CB78CCCE03498C9911BF1FE29255AF@paul> That's exactly it. Suppliers statements of "Silicone Brake Fluid repels moisture so, unlike standard polyglycol brake fluid, it never needs changing. Rust and corrosion are inhibited because moisture is kept out of the system ..." are a complete nonsense. The same amount of water gets into MGB systems filled with silicone fluid as it does with glycol. It still migrates to the ends of the system i.e. the callipers and slaves, and hence still reduces the boiling point particularly in the callipers, as well as causing localised rusting. It may well not mix with water, but it absorbs air, which results in a spongy pedal. Water in DOT3 and 4 is as uncompressible as brake fluid. It's original USP was a higher boiling point than DOT4, as well as not damaging paint. Now DOT5.1 has a higher boiling point than DOT5 (and Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) always did) it's only benefit is with the paint. Some time ago I read that as soon as someone came up with a way of completely flushing all traces of silicone from hydraulic systems the American military would be ditching silicone in favour of DOT5.1. Humidity isn't the only factor. Temperature is as well, and the rapidity and frequency of changes from cold and dry to warm and wet, where warm moist air condenses out on everything, something we in the UK at least get very frequently, and in any season. Whilst the Workshop Manual specifies changing all hydraulic *seals* at 36 k/months (albeit North America only) it doesn't mention fluid. Fluid is obviously (?) replaced at the same time, and it probably does no harm to flush some out of each calliper and slave annually. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into > the cylinder bores. From schultejim at msn.com Mon Oct 29 10:32:43 2012 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:32:43 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs Message-ID: Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get started cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake cleaner spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 or some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions? Jim Schulte President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Oct 29 10:53:47 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:53:47 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs References: Message-ID: <82EAB7B0751C4165B05A97CA2E90B982@paul> Why not carb cleaner? That comes in a high-pressure aerosol designed to blast off typical carb internal sooting so external grime (assuming that is what you mean) should be no problem. ----- Original Message ----- > Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get > started > cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake > cleaner > spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 > or > some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions? From schultejim at msn.com Mon Oct 29 11:53:57 2012 From: schultejim at msn.com (=?utf-8?B?c2NodWx0ZWppbUBtc24uY29t?=) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 13:53:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] =?utf-8?q?Reconditioning_/cleaning_carbs?= Message-ID: Guys Thanks for the feedback. Yes Paul I meant carb cleaner but I only saw brake cleaner on the shelf until a second look after your post. I didn't think of paint thinner Curt. That is a good cheap option. It's been a while (8 years) since I did a full restoration. So I may need some reminders from time to time. I have decided to name this Mg 1100 Cali. As it came from California via New Hampshire. Jim S. Harleysville, PA Sent via the HTC Vividb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone ----- Reply message ----- From: "PaulHunt73" To: "James Schulte" , "Mgs at autox.team.net" Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs Date: Mon, Oct 29, 2012 12:53 pm Why not carb cleaner? That comes in a high-pressure aerosol designed to blast off typical carb internal sooting so external grime (assuming that is what you mean) should be no problem. ----- Original Message ----- > Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get > started > cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake > cleaner > spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 > or > some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions? From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Oct 29 12:19:02 2012 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 19:19:02 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <9425B5D1F683484DB8D18F0BB20322F1@Datsun> References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> <002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl> <9425B5D1F683484DB8D18F0BB20322F1@Datsun> Message-ID: <002701cdb601$dfd3e1c0$9f7ba540$@planet.nl> The car is safely in the garage when it's wet outside. Though living near the seeside makes the air humid almost all time... There are lower riverbanks, which regulary flood. I do not live nearby a river, so no chance. I do live several meters below seelevel - how about that! And yes the soil overhere is quite wet. But we're happy we do not have such severe storms like the US east coast has now. Take care all of you! Cheers, Hans 71 BGT -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Dave Verzonden: zondag 28 oktober 2012 18:55 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid you must live in a very wet environment. I live in an environment with relatively high humidity in the summer, and have driven cars for years (one over 10) with no issues at all. you are in Holland, right? do you leave the car in one of those fields they regularly flood ? -----Original Message----- From: Hans Duinhoven Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 12:11 PM To: mgbob at juno.com ; paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done, eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water. Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into the cylinder bores. So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT From mark at bradakis.com Mon Oct 29 13:45:51 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 13:45:51 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <508EDCEF.3060107@bradakis.com> Years ago I purchased a refillable aerosol spray can, probably from Harbor Freight. You put some paint thinner or whatever in it, pressurize it from your compressor and then spray away. Handy for some cleaning jobs like carbs. mjb. From difejo at optonline.net Mon Oct 29 13:58:18 2012 From: difejo at optonline.net (John Di Fede) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:58:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning / Cleaning Carbs Message-ID: <8D6CD25DB51046A0812A3CCBC4D79F5E@GATEWAY> Jim, There is also a carburetor dip that I have used to clean carb bodies. It comes in a gallon can similar to a paint can. The can includes a dip bucket. Drop the carb body in the bucket, let soak overnight. The product I use is called Chem-Dip carburetor parts cleaner. It should be available at your local FLAPS. I believe I purchased mine at Auto Zone. John DiFede New York (Awaiting hurricane Sandy) From: James Schulte schultejim at msn.com To: "Mgs at autox.team.net" , Magnette ZAZB Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get started cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake cleaner spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 or some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions? Jim Schulte President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Mon Oct 29 14:24:26 2012 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:24:26 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Sandy Message-ID: Hoping that all the Listers in Sandy's way come away without harm. Usually, we are in the cone of the storm Take care, Dave Houser Brooksville, FL From frankk12 at verizon.net Mon Oct 29 14:59:48 2012 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:59:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Sandy References: Message-ID: Thanks Dave. Riding it out here in southern Rhode Island. Frank Krajewski ----- Original Message ----- From: "W. David Houser" To: "MGList List" Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:24 PM Subject: [Mgs] Sandy > Hoping that all the Listers in Sandy's way come away without harm. > Usually, > we are in the cone of the storm > Take care, > Dave Houser > Brooksville, FL > _______________________________________________ From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Mon Oct 29 15:14:24 2012 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 14:14:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Sandy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1351545264.20326.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for that Dave. Very windy and rainy here in Philadelphia PA. Storm landfall is supposed to be near Atlantic City NJ, which is only about 80 miles from here. I pray that no trees fall. GT is safely tucked away in the garage, hunkering down just as we are.... Matt Milkevitch '74 MGBGT ________________________________ From: W. David Houser To: MGList List Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:24 PM Subject: [Mgs] Sandy Hoping that all the Listers in Sandy's way come away without harm. Usually, we are in the cone of the storm Take care, Dave Houser Brooksville, FL _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mmilkevitch at yahoo.com From runner01 at wowway.com Mon Oct 29 19:41:11 2012 From: runner01 at wowway.com (Ray Graham) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 20:41:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Bucket Removal Message-ID: <001201cdb63f$a471d1d0$ed557570$@wowway.com> Team: Getting ready to restore and paint. How do you remove the headlight buckets on a 1966 MGB? It appears that the buckets are riveted into the body? Thanks, Ray Graham From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Mon Oct 29 19:14:06 2012 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:14:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Sandy In-Reply-To: <1351545264.20326.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1351545264.20326.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Windy, wet, branches down here in Cherry Hill, NJ (11 miles East of Philadelphia, 55 miles from Atlantic City). Run-off street water doing a great job cleaning the roads. Quite the event. Nice for once to be sufficiently far from the ocean. The news reporting (excessive) indicated that no matter how much they broadcast from the shore, it was worse. Political comment: as much as I dislike the policies of Gov. Christie, he did well in his planning and pronouncements about this event. Good for him. Bill Saidel '76 MGB On 2012-10-29 17:14, Matthew Milkevitch wrote: > Thanks for that Dave. > > Very windy and rainy here in Philadelphia PA. Storm > landfall is supposed to be near Atlantic City NJ, which is only about > 80 miles > from here. I pray that no trees fall. > > GT is safely tucked away in the > garage, hunkering down just as we are.... > > Matt Milkevitch > '74 MGBGT > ________________________________ > From: W. David Houser > > To: MGList List > Sent: Monday, > October 29, 2012 4:24 PM > Subject: [Mgs] Sandy > > Hoping that all the Listers in > Sandy's way come away without harm. Usually, > we are in the cone of the storm > Take care, > Dave Houser > Brooksville, FL > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mmilkevitch at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/saidel at camden.rutgers.edu From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Oct 30 02:31:33 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 08:31:33 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Bucket Removal References: <001201cdb63f$a471d1d0$ed557570$@wowway.com> Message-ID: <16FB654F355F48D58902C88E69B5D7E3@paul> Not originally, they have four screws into plastic sockets in the headlight ring (which is spot-welded to the wing). PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Getting ready to restore and paint. How do you remove the headlight > buckets > on a 1966 MGB? It appears that the buckets are riveted into the body? From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Oct 30 18:54:40 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 19:54:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved In-Reply-To: References: <5089EDD4.4020000@ktc.com> Message-ID: <509076D0.4060304@ktc.com> I misunderstood. Looks like you've had your share of travails. Keep truckin' and my hat's off to ya! CR From bobmgtd at comcast.net Tue Oct 30 19:03:49 2012 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 21:03:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> <201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net> <9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr> <01E99907-9DC5-46C2-8A2A-7C50F36D20DF@ece.rochester.edu> Message-ID: <19F82EE5DE3A4A82A1775D3B60029312@yourmb2swywknr> Wow, where can I purchase one of these solid state generator regulators for my TD? Electrical contacts have limited life under rapid, constant switching. Transistors can do the job with no wear. I love my Pertronix Ignitor. If I can get a solid state regulator, I will love it also. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Osborne" To: "Bob Donahue" Cc: "mgs" Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 9:11 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt BUT, you can purchase a solid state regulator, install it in your relay regulator box , and all looks orig. paul o On Oct 28, 2012, at 3:29 PM, Bob Donahue wrote: > I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built in. Relay > type regulators, that generators use, are the weakest link in the charging > system, IMHO. > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Oct 30 19:09:03 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 20:09:03 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50907A2F.6020209@ktc.com> Here's the stuff I used to use when I was running a shop. http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/viewItemDetailsMI.jsp?AM_ACTION=ViewItemDetailsAM&LANGUAGE=0&AM_FIRST=Y&LINE_NO=12&SR_LINE_NO=11&SEARCH_DESC=03060716&SEARCH_FIELD=M&MFR_PART_NO=14104+TYME+CARB+CLEANER&BUS_ACTION=details&display_option=N&KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=600 Take the carbs apart and put every part that you're going to reuse in the bath basket overnight. Pull out the basket and rinse the parts in warm water next day. I once put this stuff into a competitor's parts cleaner bucket because I could only find a refill can of the Tyme. The next day the bucket was leaking at the seams! CR On 10/29/2012 11:32 AM, James Schulte wrote: > Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get started > cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake cleaner > spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 or > some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions? > > Jim Schulte > President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com From dwoerpel at wi.net Tue Oct 30 19:42:26 2012 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 20:42:26 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt In-Reply-To: <19F82EE5DE3A4A82A1775D3B60029312@yourmb2swywknr> References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> <201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net> <9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr> <01E99907-9DC5-46C2-8A2A-7C50F36D20DF@ece.rochester.edu> <19F82EE5DE3A4A82A1775D3B60029312@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <41403.108.101.45.203.1351647746.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Just got one and it works great. http://wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx Give Bob Jeffers a call and then you'll have to give him some data about your generator. Good luck! Dave W. 59 MGA 1500 > Wow, where can I purchase one of these solid state generator regulators > for > my TD? > > Electrical contacts have limited life under rapid, constant switching. > Transistors can do the job with no wear. I love my Pertronix Ignitor. If I > can get a solid state regulator, I will love it also. > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Osborne" > To: "Bob Donahue" > Cc: "mgs" > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 9:11 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt > > > BUT, you can purchase a solid state regulator, install it in your relay > regulator box , and all looks orig. > > paul o > On Oct 28, 2012, at 3:29 PM, Bob Donahue wrote: > >> I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built in. >> Relay >> type regulators, that generators use, are the weakest link in the >> charging >> system, IMHO. >> >> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) >> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net >> Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 >> 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 >> Member: NEMGTR #11470 >> NAMGBR # 7-3336 >> Hoosier MGB Club >> Olde Octagons of Indiana > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net From shop at justbrits.com Tue Oct 30 19:45:05 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 20:45:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt In-Reply-To: <19F82EE5DE3A4A82A1775D3B60029312@yourmb2swywknr> References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC> <201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net> <9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr> <01E99907-9DC5-46C2-8A2A-7C50F36D20DF@ece.rochester.edu> <19F82EE5DE3A4A82A1775D3B60029312@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <509082A1.2030207@justbrits.com> << On 10/30/2012 8:03 PM, Bob Donahue wrote: > Wow, where can I purchase one of these solid state generator > regulators for my TD?>> Don't you READ The Octagon, Bob ?? Also, plenty on them in Archives ! ! ! Ed From thgun at comporium.net Wed Oct 31 14:38:58 2012 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 16:38:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA gen Message-ID: I looked at the brushes and the look fine. I did not remove the back plate. I could see the brushes through the slot holes. I checked the voltage at the back plate and it is 0. I can jump start the car and it will run fine. The battery is too low to turn the engine over. Should I remove the back plate of the gen and inspect? Tom Gunderson 1957 1500 MGA