From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Nov  1 02:34:36 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 08:34:36 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA gen
References: <E8FA1718D2C848F3A900EAB1022F435F@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <B6F326B210BB4B3797BACBED26AF94F5@paul>

To test the generator itself disconnect all the wiring from it and connect 
the F and D terminals together.  Connect a voltmeter between these terminals 
and earth.  Start the engine being careful not to rev it at this stage. 
Slowly increase the revs and the voltage should rise rapidly and without 
fluctuation.  Don't exceed 20v, and it should reach this figure by 1000rpm. 
If there is zero volts check the brush gear.  If you only see half to 1v the 
field winding may be faulty.  If you only see 4-5 the armature winding may 
be faulty.  You can check both these with an ohmmeter between the F and D 
terminals respectively, link removed, rotating the armature for that 
winding.  You should see a very low resistance on both, with very little to 
no fluctuation on the latter.

If the voltage is good you can check the wiring by reconnecting it at the 
generator and again linking F and D.  Do the same test as before, removing 
the wires from the F and D terminals of the control box, and checking you 
get the same voltage as before on both wires.  That's what the book says, 
however that will only reveal a disconnection in the wires, you could still 
have a high resistance fault.  To detect that you will need to connect a 
significant load such as a headlamp bulb to the wire while you are testing 
the voltage on it.  You should see very nearly the same voltage.  If that's 
OK as well, the problem is probably with the control box.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I looked at the brushes and the look fine. I did not remove the back plate. 
>I
> could see the brushes through the slot holes. I checked the voltage at the
> back plate and it is 0. 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  1 05:11:54 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 04:11:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Sandy
In-Reply-To: <C1B232FF-52C5-4DC0-8300-AF1F07FCBED5@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <C1B232FF-52C5-4DC0-8300-AF1F07FCBED5@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1351768314.42847.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

We lost power Monday night and still 7-10 days efore we should expect it on.
We left home yesterday and are in Upstate NY
at my parents through the
week-end.

Dan D
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: W.
David Houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:24 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Sandy
 
Hoping that all
the Listers in Sandy's way  come away without harm. Usually,
we are in the
cone of the storm
Take care,
Dave Houser
Brooksville, FL
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From thgun at comporium.net  Thu Nov  1 09:45:18 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 11:45:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Change gen to alternator
Message-ID: <6ECAB2BA-D98B-4397-9ABC-E1AB19809222@comporium.net>

I found that Moss has a kit for about $270. That is alittle high. Does anyone
have info for another kit or list of parts for this convertion?
Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA , 1500

Sent from my iPhone 4

From lrc at red4est.com  Thu Nov  1 18:43:23 2012
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 17:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Locating my rear end
Message-ID: <60B0C074-9E24-4611-99E3-6C7D97A745D2@red4est.com>

About ten years ago I picked up a used set of links for locating the rear axle
on my MGB:
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631906194653/

Is there anything I need to know about installing them?  I have vague
recollection of being told do to something to allow them to slide forward and
back on the leaf springs, to keep things from binding up, but may be confusing
that with another type of suspension link.

--
Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Nov  1 19:29:10 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 19:29:10 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Locating my rear end
In-Reply-To: <60B0C074-9E24-4611-99E3-6C7D97A745D2@red4est.com>
References: <60B0C074-9E24-4611-99E3-6C7D97A745D2@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <509321E6.7070809@bradakis.com>

Well the obvious response to the subject involves the use of both hands.
I'll just leave it at that.

If these are allowed to move relative to the leaf springs, they are not 
doing
what they are intended to do.  I'm not that familiar with the B's axle, 
I could
be wrong on this, though.

mjb.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Nov  2 03:00:03 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 09:00:03 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Locating my rear end
References: <60B0C074-9E24-4611-99E3-6C7D97A745D2@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <D2C02FC24BF24E90ADDCE4D174C5EFCD@paul>

It looks like those just reduce axle rotation under hard acceleration, 
rather than improve fore and aft or lateral location.  As such they would 
need a closing plate on the brackets on the left, which would go round the 
spring (the other end replacing the existing bottom plate that the damper 
attaches to).  As the leaves do move relative to one another as the spring 
compresses and expands the bracket would need to allow that to take place. 
Although given the forces and distances involved I'd say there wasn't much 
chance of stopping it, although it might stiffen the springs a fraction.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> About ten years ago I picked up a used set of links for locating the rear 
> axle
> on my MGB:
> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631906194653/
>
> Is there anything I need to know about installing them?  I have vague
> recollection of being told do to something to allow them to slide forward 
> and
> back on the leaf springs, to keep things from binding up, but may be 
> confusing
> that with another type of suspension link.

From erictw1 at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov  2 06:19:08 2012
From: erictw1 at sbcglobal.net (erictw1 at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2012 07:19:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Locating my rear end
In-Reply-To: <D2C02FC24BF24E90ADDCE4D174C5EFCD@paul>
Message-ID: <685208.34016.bm@smtp123-mob.biz.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXxNPgwm: Permission denied

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Nov  3 04:21:13 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2012 10:21:13 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Locating my rear end
References: <60B0C074-9E24-4611-99E3-6C7D97A745D2@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <4A82D66B64FF4A12A12B2F1FA439B63C@paul>

It occurred to me overnight that if the end of the rod nearest the front 
spring mounting were free to move on the spring, given that the rod seems to 
have rose joints, it wouldn't do anything at all.  Quite coincidentally a 
pal emailed me with a discussion on RV8 rear suspension.  They have torque 
control/anti-tramp arms on the rear suspension, and there are Moss and 
Frontline kits as well.  The aftermarket kits have a similar bracket to the 
ones on the left in your picture, but they bolt to the spring front mounting 
bracket and the floor near it.  That makes a sort of parallelogram (ignoring 
the curvature of the spring), which allows the axle to move up and down 
freely, but prevents the axle twisting under high torque loads.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  I have vague
> recollection of being told do to something to allow them to slide forward 
> and
> back on the leaf springs, to keep things from binding up, but may be 
> confusing
> that with another type of suspension link.

From thgun at comporium.net  Mon Nov  5 07:21:09 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 09:21:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
Message-ID: <C3DC753A-6671-4746-8CF8-7137039FDD62@comporium.net>

I have removed my generator form my car. Can someone send me a check list to
follow so I can check the generator?

Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst.

Sent from my iPhone 4
Text me at :
Thgun at textnow.me

From info at classictradespace.com  Mon Nov  5 07:48:00 2012
From: info at classictradespace.com (Classic Trade Space)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 14:48:00 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] mga
Message-ID: <021501cdbb64$8d5f2900$a81d7b00$@classictradespace.com>

Any one on the list no the where abouts of a 1956 MGA Roadster chassis
number HDT43/25627.

 

Thanks JC

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Nov  5 07:58:44 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 14:58:44 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
References: <C3DC753A-6671-4746-8CF8-7137039FDD62@comporium.net>
Message-ID: <FA9F040C8E9F453584D20BB4CCF6B54C@paul>

It really needs to be on the car, or at least have some way of driving it at 
variable speed.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I have removed my generator form my car. Can someone send me a check list 
>to
> follow so I can check the generator?

From palte at gmx.net  Mon Nov  5 09:14:39 2012
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2012 17:14:39 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
In-Reply-To: <FA9F040C8E9F453584D20BB4CCF6B54C@paul>
References: <C3DC753A-6671-4746-8CF8-7137039FDD62@comporium.net>
	<FA9F040C8E9F453584D20BB4CCF6B54C@paul>
Message-ID: <20121105161439.7050@gmx.net>

I tend to disagree.

Just connect the D and F terminals together and connect these, utilizing thick enough test wires, to a car battery, then connect the other battery terminal to the generator housing.

If the generator is spinning and rolling enthousiastically 
off your work bench (be careful!!) then there is a fair chance that it is working correctly.


The trick is that you now test it as being an electromotor 
rather than a generator.

Bert




-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 14:58:44 -0000
> Von: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
> An: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun at comporium.net>, Mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Mgs] Check generator

> It really needs to be on the car, or at least have some way of driving it
> at 
> variable speed.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >I have removed my generator form my car. Can someone send me a check list
> >to
> > follow so I can check the generator?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  5 11:12:24 2012
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 10:12:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] New SCAM - " FREE TWO ENGLISH BULLDOG BABIES FOR ADOPTION"
Message-ID: <1352139144.12396.YahooMailNeo@web111611.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I received 3 messages in my spam folder. 

 
GREETINGS,
MY NAME IS REV FRANK
JAMES,MY WIFE AND I ARE ON A CHRISTIAN MISSION
TO AFRICA AND I CAME ALONG WITH
MY 2 ENGLISH BULLDOG BABIES. AFTER A
WHILE I NOTICE THAT THE AFRICAN WEATHER
IS NOT GOOD FOR THE PUPPY AND
I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO TAKE GOOD CARE OF THEM
THE WAY I ALWAYS DO
BECAUSE OF MY JOB. THEY ARE AKC REGISTERD. - BULLDOG. HOME
RAISED,
VACINES& HEALTH GUARANTEE.INEED SOMEONE TO ADOPT THEM AND TAKE
CARE OF
THEM THE WAY I ALWAYS DO.IF YOU CAN TAKE GOOD CARE OF THEM DO
SEND A REPLY AND
I WILL EMAIL YOU THERE PICTURES. I HOPE TO READ FROM
YOU. REGARDS, REV FRANK
JAMES 
 
Pete Groh 
Ellicott City, Md.

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 13:01:40 2012
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 20:01:40 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Chassis
Message-ID: <D9E53941EAFA483F96E2FE63315EF80D@TomVistaPC>

Hi guys, I'm in the process of repairing the chassis of a MGA 1600. When I cut
the bottom of the rail which is about where the doors would be I discovered
what appears to be blocks of wood inside the chassis rails. Please see the
following link:

http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/mga/DSCF3098.JPG

This is looking at the underside of the chassis with the chassis flipped
over.

The top side wood has totally decayed and has come out like compressed paper.

The question is was this in place to give perhaps a jacking point for the
chassis or was it there to prevent the sides of the chassis from collapsing
in?

Thanks

Tom McCay
MGA1600 (in Bits)
AH3000 MKIII
Classic Mini Park Lane

From eugeneb at nni.com  Mon Nov  5 18:11:16 2012
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:11:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
In-Reply-To: <20121105161439.7050@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <web-465887910@admin.nni.com>

What about just bringing it to your local auto parts store
and ask them to test it (for free) ?

Many do.   

Gene 
80 B


On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 17:14:39 +0100
 "Bert Palte" <palte at gmx.net> wrote:
> I tend to disagree.
> 
> Just connect the D and F terminals together and connect
> these, utilizing thick enough test wires, to a car
> battery, then connect the other battery terminal to the
> generator housing.
> 
> If the generator is spinning and rolling
> enthousiastically 
> off your work bench (be careful!!) then there is a fair
> chance that it is working correctly.
> 
> 
> The trick is that you now test it as being an
> electromotor 
> rather than a generator.
> 
> Bert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------- Original-Nachricht --------
> > Datum: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 14:58:44 -0000
> > Von: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
> > An: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun at comporium.net>,
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Betreff: Re: [Mgs] Check generator
> 
> > It really needs to be on the car, or at least have some
> way of driving it
> > at 
> > variable speed.
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > >I have removed my generator form my car. Can someone
> send me a check list
> > >to
> > > follow so I can check the generator?
> > _______________________________________________
> > 
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eugeneb at nni.com

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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Nov  5 20:31:34 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 21:31:34 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
In-Reply-To: <web-465887910@admin.nni.com>
References: <web-465887910@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <0E55D59F27854B22A001982D535E4B7D@Datsun>

hahaha.  like they will have any idea what it is.

and what kind of car is it?  MG.  no, who makes it?  MG.  is that some kind 
of pontiac?

-----Original Message----- 
From: Eugene Balinski
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 7:11 PM
To: Bert Palte ; PaulHunt73
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Check generator

What about just bringing it to your local auto parts store
and ask them to test it (for free) ?

Many do.

Gene
80 B 

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Nov  5 21:44:39 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 22:44:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
In-Reply-To: <0E55D59F27854B22A001982D535E4B7D@Datsun>
References: <web-465887910@admin.nni.com>
	<0E55D59F27854B22A001982D535E4B7D@Datsun>
Message-ID: <53639.173.146.81.81.1352177079.squirrel@wm.wi.net>

I have had a local shop re-wind the armature.  No problem finding a
shop to work on it.  Anyone who works on alternators or generators
will have the proper equipment to test it.  BTDT, several times.

Dave W.
59 MGA 1500 
59 :{)



>
hahaha.  like they will have any idea what it is.
> 
> and
what kind of car is it?  MG.  no, who makes it?  MG.  is that some
> kind
> of pontiac?
> 
> -----Original
Message-----
>
From: Eugene Balinski
> Sent: Monday,
November 05, 2012 7:11 PM
> To: Bert Palte ; PaulHunt73
>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Check generator
> 
> What about just bringing it to your local auto parts
store
> and ask them to test it (for free) ?
> 
>
Many do.
> 
> Gene
> 80 B
>
_______________________________________________
> 
>
Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Nov  5 21:49:05 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2012 22:49:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
In-Reply-To: <0E55D59F27854B22A001982D535E4B7D@Datsun>
References: <web-465887910@admin.nni.com>
	<0E55D59F27854B22A001982D535E4B7D@Datsun>
Message-ID: <509896C1.30301@justbrits.com>

<< On 11/5/2012 9:31 PM, Dave wrote:
> hahaha. >>

Actually Dave, Gene's post is spot on and NOT 'funny' <G> ! ! !

<< like they will have any idea what it is. >>

Does NOT matter ! ! !  An automotive 12 VDC generator is an automotive 
12 VDC generator is an automotive 12 VDC generator is an automotive 12 
VDC generator is an automotive 12 VDC generator PERIOD. <G>

Symptoms, testings and 'corrections' ALL follow the same "path".

<< and what kind of car is it? >>

As I said, really does NOT matter.

<< MG. >>

OLD shops will, most likely WILL have a LUCAS referal and specs

<< no, who makes it?  MG. >>

Nope <G>, BMC.

<< is that some kind of pontiac? >>

More likely GM [GMC] <G> <G> <G>

Ed

From awhitema at panix.com  Mon Nov  5 22:15:28 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 21:15:28 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
In-Reply-To: <0E55D59F27854B22A001982D535E4B7D@Datsun>
References: <web-465887910@admin.nni.com>
	<0E55D59F27854B22A001982D535E4B7D@Datsun>
Message-ID: <B3B89D62-DFBA-49EF-A7E7-312B4968C8F3@panix.com>

On Nov 5, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> hahaha.  like they will have any idea what it is.
>
> and what kind of car is it?  MG.  no, who makes it?  MG.  is that some kind
of pontiac?

I recently had a starter go on me.  I took it to the local auto store, handed
it to them, they tested it (it spun, but very slowly).  Sent me off to the
specialists one town over for a more in depth diagnostic.  A starter and a
generator are the same thing, the only difference is which bit is the input
and which is the output.

The specialist "worked on more Lucas bits than he cared to admit to", gave me
grief about magic smoke, and fixed it.  Cost me a pittance and a week of
downtime (harvest season, farmers come first).

Pullman and Moscow combine to a population of maybe 40000 including the
student populations.  The knowledge exists, even in small towns.  Perhaps
especially in small towns (those farmers tend to keep stuff for a long time).

--

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Nov  6 00:02:45 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2012 01:02:45 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Chassis
In-Reply-To: <D9E53941EAFA483F96E2FE63315EF80D@TomVistaPC>
References: <D9E53941EAFA483F96E2FE63315EF80D@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <201211060702.qA672jZk012920@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

If original this is not wood but mineral wool.  It is for sound 
deadening.  It is also heat resistant do the frame rails can be 
welded around it.  If you really do have wood in there, then it is 
the work of some DPO, who may may been using it for alignment while 
repairing sheet metal in the frame.


At 08:01 PM 11/5/2012 +0000, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
>.... in the process of repairing the chassis of a MGA 1600. When I 
>cut the bottom of the rail which is about where the doors would be I 
>discovered what appears to be blocks of wood inside the chassis 
>rails. Please see the following link:
>         http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/mga/DSCF3098.JPG
>This is looking at the underside of the chassis with the chassis flipped over.
>
>The top side wood has totally decayed and has come out like compressed paper.
>
>The question is was this in place to give perhaps a jacking point 
>for the chassis or was it there to prevent the sides of the chassis 
>from collapsing in?
>....

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Nov  6 01:22:06 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 08:22:06 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Check generator
References: <C3DC753A-6671-4746-8CF8-7137039FDD62@comporium.net>
	<FA9F040C8E9F453584D20BB4CCF6B54C@paul> <20121105161439.7050@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <C0950B3D4B7A4141A9F762041E3A38FB@paul>

True, as a simple go/no go test for an unknown quantity to see if it is 
worth trying in the car.  But if it is yours and you think you are having 
problems with it then I suggest you need something more searching, and be 
able to check the wiring and regulator as well.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Just connect the D and F terminals together and connect these, utilizing 
> thick enough test wires, to a car battery, then connect the other battery 
> terminal to the generator housing.
>
> If the generator is spinning and rolling enthousiastically
> off your work bench (be careful!!) then there is a fair chance that it is 
> working correctly.

From twobees at sprynet.com  Tue Nov  6 06:21:27 2012
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 08:21:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website
Message-ID: <004e01cdbc21$ad33fae0$079bf0a0$@com>


From twobees at sprynet.com  Tue Nov  6 06:41:12 2012
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 08:41:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website
Message-ID: <006101cdbc24$63231320$29693960$@com>

The ex-Group 44 MGB is today's featured image on the Vintage Motorsport web
site.  Check it out.
http://vintagemotorsport.com/
 
Norm Sippel

From twobees at sprynet.com  Tue Nov  6 11:13:45 2012
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 13:13:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Re.: MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website
Message-ID: <008801cdbc4a$75ca5ad0$615f1070$@com>

Sorry.  I should have mentioned this earlier.
 
If the MGB doesn't appear when you go to our site, just refresh the page
until it does.
 
Norm Sippel

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Nov  6 12:55:58 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 14:55:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Chassis
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12.1352228402.1759.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12.1352228402.1759.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C9F197C8F9924158AD13641E9C682EF3@EricJRussellPC>

As with anything MGA related, peruse Barney Gaylord's 'MGA Guru' web pages 
for "everything you ever wanted to know about the MGA".

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/frame/fr105.htm

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 

> Hi guys, I'm in the process of repairing the chassis of a MGA 1600. When I 
> cut
> the bottom of the rail which is about where the doors would be I 
> discovered
> what appears to be blocks of wood inside the chassis rails.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  6 14:11:18 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 13:11:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Chassis
In-Reply-To: <C9F197C8F9924158AD13641E9C682EF3@EricJRussellPC>
References: <mailman.12.1352228402.1759.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<C9F197C8F9924158AD13641E9C682EF3@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <1352236278.63585.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Just turn down your speakers if you don't like midi music... ;-)

Dan D
'76 B
Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA


________________________________
 From:
Eric J Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday,
November 6, 2012 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Chassis
 
As with anything MGA
related, peruse Barney Gaylord's 'MGA Guru' web pages for "everything you ever
wanted to know about the MGA".

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/frame/fr105.htm
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
> Hi guys, I'm in the
process of repairing the chassis of a MGA 1600. When I cut
> the bottom of the
rail which is about where the doors would be I discovered
> what appears to be
blocks of wood inside the chassis rails.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
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From lundgren at byu.net  Tue Nov  6 15:57:19 2012
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2012 15:57:19 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Re.: MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website
In-Reply-To: <008801cdbc4a$75ca5ad0$615f1070$@com>
References: <008801cdbc4a$75ca5ad0$615f1070$@com>
Message-ID: <509995CF.6000509@byu.net>

I saw it in the video (not the feature) though I am pretty sure the 
camera man running the video didn't see any of the MGs!

On 11/06/2012 11:13 AM, Norm wrote:
> Sorry.  I should have mentioned this earlier.
>   
> If the MGB doesn't appear when you go to our site, just refresh the page
> until it does.
>   
> Norm Sippel
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Tue Nov  6 16:25:39 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 17:25:39 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Re.: MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website
In-Reply-To: <509995CF.6000509@byu.net>
References: <008801cdbc4a$75ca5ad0$615f1070$@com> <509995CF.6000509@byu.net>
Message-ID: <005801cdbc76$08c54040$1a4fc0c0$@net>

I noticed that, I thought that was pretty rude.  He was about to lose his
mind on everything else... Multiple B's and not one mention of them.
Chad Cooper
'72 B Roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andrew B. Lundgren
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 4:57 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Re.: MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website

I saw it in the video (not the feature) though I am pretty sure the camera
man running the video didn't see any of the MGs!

On 11/06/2012 11:13 AM, Norm wrote:
> Sorry.  I should have mentioned this earlier.
>   
> If the MGB doesn't appear when you go to our site, just refresh the 
> page until it does.
>   
> Norm Sippel
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov  6 17:37:05 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2012 18:37:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website
In-Reply-To: <006101cdbc24$63231320$29693960$@com>
References: <006101cdbc24$63231320$29693960$@com>
Message-ID: <5099AD31.2010002@ktc.com>

The dumbass missed the couple of Healeys and a couple of MGBs, et al.  
The boy wasn't prepped.

CR
On 11/6/2012 7:41 AM, Norm wrote:
> The ex-Group 44 MGB is today's featured image on the Vintage Motorsport web
> site.  Check it out.
> http://vintagemotorsport.com/
>   
> Norm Sippel
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From lrc at red4est.com  Wed Nov  7 15:43:45 2012
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 14:43:45 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Locating my rear end
In-Reply-To: <4A82D66B64FF4A12A12B2F1FA439B63C@paul>
References: <60B0C074-9E24-4611-99E3-6C7D97A745D2@red4est.com>
	<4A82D66B64FF4A12A12B2F1FA439B63C@paul>
Message-ID: <061A135A-5141-4A13-8654-905FE22C6CA5@red4est.com>

On Nov 3, 2012, at 3:21 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

> It occurred to me overnight that if the end of the rod nearest the front
spring mounting were free to move on the spring, given that the rod seems to
have rose joints, it wouldn't do anything at all.  Quite coincidentally a pal
emailed me with a discussion on RV8 rear suspension.  They have torque
control/anti-tramp arms on the rear suspension, and there are Moss and
Frontline kits as well.  The aftermarket kits have a similar bracket to the
ones on the left in your picture, but they bolt to the spring front mounting
bracket and the floor near it.  That makes a sort of parallelogram (ignoring
the curvature of the spring), which allows the axle to move up and down
freely, but prevents the axle twisting under high torque loads.

I think that this is exactly what it is.

For some reason, I had the idea that what I had bought were rods that
connected to the leaf springs where these do, and also to a point on the
chassis, in line with the leaf spring mount, but just out board of the drive
shaft, to triangulate the mount point and keep the axle from shifting side to
side.

Axle tramp was the major problem that I needed to solve.  Once I stiffened up
the front end with a second swaybar, I was keeping both tires on the ground
coming out of turns, and getting nasty axle tramp.

I'd like to change my tires, at least at the track from 195-60-14 to the much
more common 205-50-15, and also wanted to locate the axle side to side to
prevent rubbing.

--
Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Nov  8 11:31:06 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 19:31:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website
In-Reply-To: <006101cdbc24$63231320$29693960$@com>
References: <006101cdbc24$63231320$29693960$@com>
Message-ID: <006a01cdbddf$376e61f0$a64b25d0$@planet.nl>

Very nice - also saw ex-Le Mans Porsche (white with Martini ad) driven bij
Dutch Racing driver Gijs van Lennep.

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens
Norm
Verzonden: dinsdag 6 november 2012 14:41
Aan: MG Digest; MGVR Digest; vintage-race at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] MGB Featured on Vintage Motorsport Website

The ex-Group 44 MGB is today's featured image on the Vintage Motorsport web
site.  Check it out.
http://vintagemotorsport.com/
 
Norm Sippel 

From info at classictradespace.com  Fri Nov  9 11:42:43 2012
From: info at classictradespace.com (Classic Trade Space)
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 18:42:43 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] ED Freeman
Message-ID: <031e01cdbeaa$074bfa70$15e3ef50$@classictradespace.com>

Any one on the list had any dealings with an Ed Freeman of  36 arbor
st,Wenham,MA, 01984

 

Please let me no

 

Thanks Marc

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Nov 10 18:00:03 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 19:00:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
Message-ID: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>

     Anyone have an idea where one could source a 1/2" ignition wrench? 
I know it's a little outside of the definition, but I'm finding it sure 
would be handy.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Nov 10 21:48:18 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 20:48:18 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CACOF-Tp7YvjyVc00UbJ69F53KZkiQUrPaG9w0KYddiFDNN666A@mail.gmail.com>

Sanp-On, Mac, and Matco all make various configurations of 1/2" wrenches.
Angle head, stubby, short, long, extra long, open, box whatever.


On Sat, Nov 10, 2012 at 5:00 PM, Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke at comcast.net>wrote:

>     Anyone have an idea where one could source a 1/2" ignition wrench? I
> know it's a little outside of the definition, but I'm finding it sure would
> be handy.
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/richard.ewald@**
> gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com>

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun Nov 11 03:31:37 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 10:31:37 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DD072F031031495EBB0F27984EE662D6@paul>

Sounds like a left-handed spanner, or a bucket of sparks for the grinding 
machine...

I'd never heard of these, but Googling I see that description can be applied 
to a bog-standard combination spanner i.e. one with a ring on one end and an 
open of the same size on the other, or two opens of the same size but at 
different angles.

What googling also showed is that there are any number of suppliers ...

----- Original Message ----- 

>     Anyone have an idea where one could source a 1/2" ignition wrench?

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Sun Nov 11 06:08:42 2012
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:08:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <954C9126-BC78-4087-9CEF-406CADECC8D1@ece.rochester.edu>

Glenn, a bit more info would be helpful. If you are looking for a thin 1/2
best is flea market if you are looking for one of those that are off set used
for tighing distributor bolts again , I have seen them in the tool bins at
flea markets.

paulo



On Nov 10, 2012, at 8:00 PM, Glenn Schnittke wrote:

>    Anyone have an idea where one could source a 1/2" ignition wrench? I know
it's a little outside of the definition, but I'm finding it sure would be
handy.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu

From palte at gmx.net  Sun Nov 11 07:09:04 2012
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 15:09:04 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20121111140904.210550@gmx.net>

Glenn, is this what you mean?


http://www.stahlwille-online.de/index.php?amac=03030002000e&sid=efb9cca3ab54970c934d04e8c1028d43&lid=2&mid=2&shid=&scmd=pdetail&pcid=1678&cid=2048&pid=2064



Great tools!

Probably you can order them online if you want to.


In my workshop, we have some Stahlwille tools that are perhaps 
40 to 50 years old, i.e. they were here long before I started working here.

Nowadays I order, whenever I need them, Gedore tools, of equally high  quality, since my supplier carries them, but Gedore does not make a 1/2" spanner of this variety.

NFI etc, just satisfied.

Bert
 



-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 19:00:03 -0600
> Von: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke at comcast.net>
> An: mgs list <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Betreff: [Mgs] Odd wrenches

>      Anyone have an idea where one could source a 1/2" ignition wrench? 
> I know it's a little outside of the definition, but I'm finding it sure 
> would be handy.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Nov 11 09:31:17 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 10:31:17 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <509FD2D5.8080009@justbrits.com>

<< On 11/10/2012 7:00 PM, Glenn Schnittke wrote:
> Anyone have an idea where one could source a 1/2" ignition wrench? >>

Glenn & guys;

I seem to recall Snap-On selling a three (3) piece SET of "Ignition 
Wrenches" MANY, MANY years ago.

However Glenn & IIRC, the largest was 7/16" & 3/8" then 3/8" & 1/4" 
them 1/4" & 3/16".  All three
(3) were of thin-wall construction with both 'heads' at 90 degrees to 
the shaft.

As usual, Snap-On would & did sell the wrenches separately <VBG> ! ! !

Sorry Glenn, but I do NOT re-call a 4th wrench with would have been 
7/16" & 1/2" or the "set" starting there and going down in size (I am 
next to positive on this - LOL)  ! ! !

If I can find my 7/16" & 3/8" wrench, I get ya'll some pics and 
measurements.
'Big' one is about three.five" ( 3 1/2") long.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  <lite bulb going off>  Eureka, Sears had a roll-up kit in red 
plastic & IIRC, wrenches were Craftsmen.

From thgun at comporium.net  Sun Nov 11 13:59:05 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 15:59:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch
Message-ID: <AD9F26D8F5894E17A150B1F53B814203@OwnerPC>

My clutch seems to work fine when I first start the car. After about 15
minutes of driving the clutch seems to slip. I can press the gas while in 4th
gear ,45 to 50 miles an hour , and can feel and see that the clutch is
slipping. The tach rpm goes up without speeding the car up. Could this be the
hose at the slave cylinder? I have read that the interior of that hose can
break down and create a oneway valve. Is there any way to check the clutch
without pulling the engine?

Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst.

From jello at cableone.net  Sun Nov 11 14:22:18 2012
From: jello at cableone.net (PHIL BATES)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 14:22:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch
In-Reply-To: <AD9F26D8F5894E17A150B1F53B814203@OwnerPC>
References: <AD9F26D8F5894E17A150B1F53B814203@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <CAB2zmqHB5ySHd64Si20MFtNachNxHDrzGMSj1S5Z5ZoDavjj7Q@mail.gmail.com>

It could potentially be a collapsed hose acting as a check valve - but
it's unlikely.  The easiest wayt o remedy that is to just replace the
hose.  It won't cost you more than $40 and shipping from moss - but
you can get them cheaper too.  You can get a braided stainles hose
that's less likely to collapse for $63 and shipping.

Chances are your clutch is shot - there are lots of reasons for things
like chatter, but not many reasons for slip.

And there is no way to check the clutch plate depth without taking out
the engine.

To read a little more, go here http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_106.htm

Phil

On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 1:59 PM, Tom Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net> wrote:
> My clutch seems to work fine when I first start the car. After about 15
> minutes of driving the clutch seems to slip. I can press the gas while in 4th
> gear ,45 to 50 miles an hour , and can feel and see that the clutch is
> slipping. The tach rpm goes up without speeding the car up. Could this be the
> hose at the slave cylinder? I have read that the interior of that hose can
> break down and create a oneway valve. Is there any way to check the clutch
> without pulling the engine?
>
> Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/jello at cableone.net

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 11 14:22:28 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 13:22:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch
In-Reply-To: <AD9F26D8F5894E17A150B1F53B814203@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <1352668948.90382.YahooMailClassic@web163903.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sun, 11/11/12, Tom Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net> wrote:

> Could this be the
> hose at the slave cylinder? I have read that the interior of
> that hose can
> break down and create a oneway valve. Is there any way to
> check the clutch without pulling the engine?

I've heard this, too, but I've never experienced it.
You could test the hose hypothesis by pressing the
clutch pedal repeatedly, then starting the car and
seeing if the slipping begins right away.  Or you
could just replace the hose. That would be an easy
and relatively inexpensive repair, and it might
solve the problem.

From thgun at comporium.net  Sun Nov 11 15:30:56 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:30:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch I just took the car for a spin to see if pumping
 the cluch made any change. It did not. I let the car run in the drive way
 for about 10 minutes and then the clulch would not engage at all.
Message-ID: <4D339971D4F14F8EA7E335B4834B3F6E@OwnerPC>

I just took the car for a spin to see if pumping the cluch made any change. It
did not. The clutch was not slipping at this time.  I drove it about 2 miles
then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then the clutch quit. I have seen a hose
replacement on Ebay at half the price of Moss.  I had to push is back into the
garage. When I first drove the car the clutch would pop and spin the tires.

Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 11 15:35:22 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan Dibiase)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:35:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
Message-ID: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>

Went to take a drive in the '76 B today and started backing down the driveway
only to have the brake pedal go to the floor... Fortunately the e-brake works
great! Popped the hood and the brake master cylinder was almost dry. No fluid
on the garage floor or in the car. It's been a couple of weeks since I drove
the car, due to Hurricane Sandy. Where could the fluid have gone??

Sent from Dan's iPhone

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Nov 11 15:43:27 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 16:43:27 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch
In-Reply-To: <AD9F26D8F5894E17A150B1F53B814203@OwnerPC>
References: <AD9F26D8F5894E17A150B1F53B814203@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <201211112243.qABMhSrX008089@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

If the hose is clogged the clutch will be slow to engage when you let 
the pedal up, but it does not necessarily slip after full engagement.

The clutch pipe and hose are large bore for quick flow to allow fast 
engagement of the clutch.  If you press the pedal full down, then 
lift your foot as fast as possible, the pedal should follow your foot 
as fast as you can lift it.  With only moderate speed of pedal push 
and lift the down force and up force pressure of pedal against your 
foot) should be very similar.  If the force required for rapid push 
is high, and the return pressure with rapid lift is substantially 
lower, that is indication of a clogged hose.  If the pedal goes down 
easy and comes up quick with nearly same force, then the hose is probably okay.

If the clutch slips when you push the throttle on steady cruising or 
going up a hill, then the friction disc is likely worn thin at end of 
life.  Lots of oil on the clutch parts can have the same 
effect.  Either way the engine has to come out for inspection and repair.


At 03:59 PM 11/11/2012 -0500, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>My clutch seems to work fine when I first start the car. After about 
>15 minutes of driving the clutch seems to slip. I can press the gas 
>while in 4th gear ,45 to 50 miles an hour , and can feel and see 
>that the clutch is slipping. The tach rpm goes up without speeding 
>the car up. Could this be the hose at the slave cylinder? I have 
>read that the interior of that hose can break down and create a 
>oneway valve. Is there any way to check the clutch without pulling the engine?
>....

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Nov 11 15:49:28 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 16:49:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
In-Reply-To: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
References: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201211112249.qABMnRHV003935@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

The '76 should have a power brake booster.  If the vacuum diaphragm 
in the booster splits or looses the seal, engien vacuum can pull 
fluid out of the master cylinder into the intake manifold to be 
burned in the engine.


At 05:35 PM 11/11/2012 -0500, Dan Dibiase wrote:
>Went to take a drive in the '76 B today .... the brake master 
>cylinder was almost dry. No fluid on the garage floor or in the car. 
>.... Where could the fluid have gone??
>....

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Nov 11 16:00:01 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:00:01 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch I just took the car for a spin .... I let the
 car run in the drive way for about 10 minutes and then the clulch would not
 engage at all.
In-Reply-To: <4D339971D4F14F8EA7E335B4834B3F6E@OwnerPC>
References: <4D339971D4F14F8EA7E335B4834B3F6E@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <201211112259.qABMxwLR011034@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

Here's another thought.  If the clutch master pushrod is adjusted a 
bit to long (no freeplay), then it may inhibit return of fluid to the 
reservoir.  When the engine warms up and the fluid exands a bit, this 
can cause residual pressure in the clutch line, which can make the 
clutch slip when it is warmed up, (where it may not slim when 
cool).  Solution then is to shorten teh master pushrid a bit to 
assure that it has minimal freeplay.  The pushrod should wiggle a 
little when at rest, and the pedal should have about 1/4-inch 
pretravel where you can press it with one finger before you feel the 
force of the master piston motion.  This could be as simple as proper 
adjustment of the master pushrod.


At 05:30 PM 11/11/2012 -0500, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>I just took the car for a spin to see if pumping the cluch made any 
>change. It did not. The clutch was not slipping at this time.  I 
>drove it about 2 miles then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then 
>the clutch quit. I have seen a hose replacement on Ebay at half the 
>price of Moss.  I had to push is back into the garage. When I first 
>drove the car the clutch would pop and spin the tires.
>....

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 11 17:12:01 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan Dibiase)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 19:12:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
In-Reply-To: <201211112249.qABMnRHV003935@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
References: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
	<201211112249.qABMnRHV003935@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <FA08CD0E-DD67-4DE4-9661-ED9EF2E73C84@yahoo.com>

On so how do I confirm that? I filled the MC and took a short ride (about 5
miles) and checked the MC again - same amount of fluid. If fluid is being
sucked into the engine I should see fluid loss only after driving right? So if
I check it again tomorrow am it should be where it is now...?

Sent from Dan's iPhone

On Nov 11, 2012, at 5:49 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:

> The '76 should have a power brake booster.  If the vacuum diaphragm in the
booster splits or looses the seal, engien vacuum can pull fluid out of the
master cylinder into the intake manifold to be burned in the engine.
>
>
> At 05:35 PM 11/11/2012 -0500, Dan Dibiase wrote:
>> Went to take a drive in the '76 B today .... the brake master cylinder was
almost dry. No fluid on the garage floor or in the car. .... Where could the
fluid have gone??
>> ....

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Nov 11 18:02:22 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 19:02:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
In-Reply-To: <FA08CD0E-DD67-4DE4-9661-ED9EF2E73C84@yahoo.com>
References: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
	<201211112249.qABMnRHV003935@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<FA08CD0E-DD67-4DE4-9661-ED9EF2E73C84@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201211120102.qAC12LGn021010@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

Keep driving and keep an eye on it (and carry some brake fluid with 
you).  If it continues to be a problem, pinch off the vacuum hose 
with a coupe bits of wood and a clamp, and drive with manual brakes 
for a while (no power boost).  If that curtails the loss of fluid, 
you have isolated the problem (and the booster needs a rebuild).


At 07:12 PM 11/11/2012 -0500, Dan Dibiase wrote:
>On so how do I confirm that? I filled the MC and took a short ride 
>(about 5 miles) and checked the MC again - same amount of fluid. If 
>fluid is being sucked into the engine I should see fluid loss only 
>after driving right? So if I check it again tomorrow am it should be 
>where it is now...?
>....


>On Nov 11, 2012, at 5:49 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:
> > The '76 should have a power brake booster.  If the vacuum 
> diaphragm in the booster splits or looses the seal, engien vacuum 
> can pull fluid out of the master cylinder into the intake manifold 
> to be burned in the engine.


> > At 05:35 PM 11/11/2012 -0500, Dan Dibiase wrote:
> >> Went to take a drive in the '76 B today .... the brake master 
> cylinder was almost dry. No fluid on the garage floor or in the 
> car. .... Where could the fluid have gone??
> >> ....

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Nov 11 19:06:40 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 18:06:40 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
In-Reply-To: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
References: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TpUtK4t7kgwCJ9WO9gwgcTHTFU5ebA00j6WcJS1FM++pA@mail.gmail.com>

Assuming no holes in a brake line, the most likely source is the rear wheel
cylinders.  They can leak a bunch before it is obvious.
Rick


On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 2:35 PM, Dan Dibiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Went to take a drive in the '76 B today and started backing down the
> driveway
> only to have the brake pedal go to the floor... Fortunately the e-brake
> works
> great! Popped the hood and the brake master cylinder was almost dry. No
> fluid
> on the garage floor or in the car. It's been a couple of weeks since I
> drove
> the car, due to Hurricane Sandy. Where could the fluid have gone??
>
> Sent from Dan's iPhone
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Nov 11 19:18:10 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 18:18:10 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <20121111140904.210550@gmx.net>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
  <20121111140904.210550@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <CACOF-To=wyhB9-d8pgp-AogdwP=9mJXKipN1dye8XnBCOvV6+A@mail.gmail.com>

Here is the Snap-On version of that Stahlwille wrench linked to above.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=633557&group_ID=675025&store=&dir=catalog

Ed- I have that same set of ignition wrenches from Snap-On, one of the very
first tools I bought from them.
Rick


O

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sun Nov 11 19:58:18 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 18:58:18 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
In-Reply-To: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CCC5A5CA.40CA1%mvheim@sonic.net>

Check the carpet in the footwell -- it soaks it up pretty good.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/11/12 2:35 PM, Dan Dibiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> Went to take a drive in the '76 B today and started backing down the driveway
> only to have the brake pedal go to the floor... Fortunately the e-brake works
> great! Popped the hood and the brake master cylinder was almost dry. No fluid
> on the garage floor or in the car. It's been a couple of weeks since I drove
> the car, due to Hurricane Sandy. Where could the fluid have gone??
> 
> Sent from Dan's iPhone

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sun Nov 11 20:12:33 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 19:12:33 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Actually worked on the MGB
In-Reply-To: <201211120102.qAC12LGn021010@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <CCC5A921.40CA3%mvheim@sonic.net>

Tore down the carbs, cleaned and reassembled them with new needles and the
new (to me) suction chambers acquired from Larry C. The good news: the jets
are centered and the pistons slide slick as a weasel. The bad news: the
rubber grommet between the rear carb and float bowl came out in pieces, so I
will have to wait for a Moss package to arrive to put them back on the car
and get tuning. Well, it's always something.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Nov 12 01:38:39 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 08:38:39 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch
References: <AD9F26D8F5894E17A150B1F53B814203@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <D779916370F1464F84B444DB7ED7EBAA@paul>

Sounds more like clutch worn out to me.  Where's the biting point?  That
gets slowly higher as it get towards the end of its life, if it's more than
half way up it's probably wear.  On an MGB at least there is a hole in the
bell housing that oil drips out of if either the crank or first motion shaft
oil seals gave failed, but only the crank one usually gets oil on the
clutch.

Quit in what way?  No drive?  Or no disengagement when you push the pedal?

Can't see it being push-rod problems or it would have been like it all 
along.  Is it adjustable on the MGA?  It's fixed on the MGB, the clutch 
system is self-adjusting so doesn't need to be separately adjustable.


PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My clutch seems to work fine when I first start the car. After about 15
> minutes of driving the clutch seems to slip. I can press the gas while in
> 4th
> gear ,45 to 50 miles an hour , and can feel and see that the clutch is
> slipping.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Nov 12 01:52:36 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 08:52:36 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
References: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
	<201211112249.qABMnRHV003935@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <26BC5A3D320E49FEB95C9FE106D9A4C3@paul>

It should also have split braking system, and the servo can only suck fluid
from the rear chamber.  That *is* the front brakes, so you do lose about 75%
of the braking effort (which makes this split system rather pointless in my
view), and the pedal will go further towards the floor, but not all the way,
and there should still be some brakes.

If both chambers are empty then it could be the shuttle valve for the 
imbalance warning light leaking, but I wouldn't expect a single seal failure 
to empty both chambers.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The '76 should have a power brake booster.  If the vacuum diaphragm in the
> booster splits or looses the seal, engien vacuum can pull fluid out of the
> master cylinder into the intake manifold to be burned in the engine.

From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Nov 12 09:40:54 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 10:40:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <CACOF-To=wyhB9-d8pgp-AogdwP=9mJXKipN1dye8XnBCOvV6+A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net> <20121111140904.210550@gmx.net>
	<CACOF-To=wyhB9-d8pgp-AogdwP=9mJXKipN1dye8XnBCOvV6+A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8449B4565A3A4AD69D760DFF14B3275E@rileyPC>

Thin it with a grinder, shorten it with a cut off wheel, bend it with a
hot wrench.     You can turn about any 1/2"  wrench into what you need.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Richard Ewald
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 8:18 PM
To: Bert Palte
Cc: Glenn Schnittke ; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Odd wrenches

Here is the Snap-On version of that Stahlwille wrench linked to above.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=633557&group_ID=675025&store=&dir=catalog

Ed- I have that same set of ignition wrenches from Snap-On, one of the very
first tools I bought from them.
Rick


O
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5387 - Release Date: 11/10/12 

From schoolerw at comcast.net  Mon Nov 12 13:13:33 2012
From: schoolerw at comcast.net (schooler)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 15:13:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1352746803.10543.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8A2457A1CF764D37BAF968C85D592335@BillPrimary>

Seen on my copy of the latest digest, in a discussion about SU carb
rebuilding:  "...the jets are centered and the pistons slide slick as a
weasel."  Oh my.  Just how slick IS a weasel?  And how is this measured -
with or without oil?  

I love mixed metaphors!

From erictw1 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 12 13:20:11 2012
From: erictw1 at sbcglobal.net (Eric Houkal)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 12:20:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
In-Reply-To: <8A2457A1CF764D37BAF968C85D592335@BillPrimary>
Message-ID: <1352751611.13768.YahooMailClassic@web184304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I just know they're hard to catch

--- On Mon, 11/12/12, schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net> wrote:


From: schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 2:13 PM


Seen on my copy of the latest digest, in a discussion about SU carb
rebuilding:  "...the jets are centered and the pistons slide slick as a
weasel."  Oh my.  Just how slick IS a weasel?  And how is this measured -
with or without oil? 

I love mixed metaphors!
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/erictw1 at sbcglobal.net

From schoolerw at comcast.net  Mon Nov 12 13:36:48 2012
From: schoolerw at comcast.net (schooler)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 15:36:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
In-Reply-To: <1352751611.13768.YahooMailClassic@web184304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <289D66E14BB1405EAE0A1B67423DD7F9@BillPrimary>

Weasels or mixed metaphors?



-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Houkal [mailto:erictw1 at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 3:20 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net; schooler
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors




I just know they're hard to catch

--- On Mon, 11/12/12, schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net> wrote:


From: schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 2:13 PM

Seen on my copy of the latest digest, in a discussion about SU carb
rebuilding:  "...the jets are centered and the pistons slide slick as a
weasel."  Oh my.  Just how slick IS a weasel?  And how is this measured -
with or without oil?

I love mixed metaphors!
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1843.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/erictw1 at sbcglobal.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Nov 12 13:43:17 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 13:43:17 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
In-Reply-To: <8A2457A1CF764D37BAF968C85D592335@BillPrimary>
References: <8A2457A1CF764D37BAF968C85D592335@BillPrimary>
Message-ID: <50A15F65.1070902@bradakis.com>

schooler wrote:
> I love mixed metaphors!
>

How about wild wilderness - where the hand of man has never set foot.

mjb.

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Nov 12 13:45:13 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 12:45:13 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
In-Reply-To: <1352751611.13768.YahooMailClassic@web184304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CCC69FD9.40CFC%mvheim@sonic.net>

Assuming weasels ARE slick (and that is the point of the figure of speech,
obviously), how is that a mixed metaphor?

Although I suspect that the original expression was "slick as a whistle"
(also obscure but known from literature of the previous century). "Weasel"
is funnier, however; as proven by the response.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/12/12 12:20 PM, Eric Houkal at erictw1 at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> I just know they're hard to catch
> 
> --- On Mon, 11/12/12, schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 2:13 PM
> 
> 
> Seen on my copy of the latest digest, in a discussion about SU carb
> rebuilding:  "...the jets are centered and the pistons slide slick as a
> weasel."  Oh my.  Just how slick IS a weasel?  And how is this measured -
> with or without oil?
> 
> I love mixed metaphors!

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Nov 12 14:39:37 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 16:39:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
In-Reply-To: <CCC69FD9.40CFC%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <1352751611.13768.YahooMailClassic@web184304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CCC69FD9.40CFC%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <E1TY1mw-0003eX-F4@zeta.look.ca>

Any connection with (church music in background) "weasel overcome....."?


At 12:45 PM 11/12/2012 -0800, Max Heim wrote:
>Assuming weasels ARE slick (and that is the point of the figure of speech,
>obviously), how is that a mixed metaphor?
>
>Although I suspect that the original expression was "slick as a whistle"
>(also obscure but known from literature of the previous century). "Weasel"
>is funnier, however; as proven by the response.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>on 11/12/12 12:20 PM, Eric Houkal at erictw1 at sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
> > I just know they're hard to catch
> >
> > --- On Mon, 11/12/12, schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > From: schooler <schoolerw at comcast.net>
> > Subject: [Mgs] Mixed Metaphors
> > To: mgs at autox.team.net
> > Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 2:13 PM
> >
> >
> > Seen on my copy of the latest digest, in a discussion about SU carb
> > rebuilding:  "...the jets are centered and the pistons slide slick as a
> > weasel."  Oh my.  Just how slick IS a weasel?  And how is this measured -
> > with or without oil?
> >
> > I love mixed metaphors!
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Nov 12 14:45:41 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 14:45:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <8449B4565A3A4AD69D760DFF14B3275E@rileyPC>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net> <20121111140904.210550@gmx.net>
	<CACOF-To=wyhB9-d8pgp-AogdwP=9mJXKipN1dye8XnBCOvV6+A@mail.gmail.com>
	<8449B4565A3A4AD69D760DFF14B3275E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <50A16E05.5030908@bradakis.com>

riverside at southslope.net wrote:
> Thin it with a grinder, shorten it with a cut off wheel, bend it with a
> hot wrench.     You can turn about any 1/2"  wrench into what you need.

Usually my first step in this process is to go to Harbor Fright and 
purchase a
wrench I don't mind mutilating.

mjb.

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 12 15:05:58 2012
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 16:05:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <50A16E05.5030908@bradakis.com>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net> <20121111140904.210550@gmx.net>
	<CACOF-To=wyhB9-d8pgp-AogdwP=9mJXKipN1dye8XnBCOvV6+A@mail.gmail.com>
	<8449B4565A3A4AD69D760DFF14B3275E@rileyPC>
	<50A16E05.5030908@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <50A172C6.1030809@sbcglobal.net>

On 11/12/2012 3:45 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>> Thin it with a grinder, shorten it with a cut off wheel, bend it with a
>> hot wrench.     You can turn about any 1/2"  wrench into what you need.
>
> Usually my first step in this process is to go to Harbor Fright and 
> purchase a
> wrench I don't mind mutilating.
>
> mjb.
Mark,
My sentiment too.  I don't think I could bring myself to attack one of 
my Snap-On wrenches like that.

Charles Hill

From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Nov 12 15:14:06 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 16:14:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <50A16E05.5030908@bradakis.com>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
	<20121111140904.210550@gmx.net><CACOF-To=wyhB9-d8pgp-AogdwP=9mJXKipN1dye8XnBCOvV6+A@mail.gmail.com><8449B4565A3A4AD69D760DFF14B3275E@rileyPC>
	<50A16E05.5030908@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <64C9A1AF06B4477A8241571ECDB2C4C3@rileyPC>

An occasional Craftsman has been sacrificed to the god of speed.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 3:45 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Odd wrenches

riverside at southslope.net wrote:
> Thin it with a grinder, shorten it with a cut off wheel, bend it with a
> hot wrench.     You can turn about any 1/2"  wrench into what you need.

Usually my first step in this process is to go to Harbor Fright and
purchase a
wrench I don't mind mutilating.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe: 
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5390 - Release Date: 11/12/12 

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Nov 12 15:14:02 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 14:14:02 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <50A172C6.1030809@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CCC6B4AA.40D19%mvheim@sonic.net>

Yeah, and hacking up high-grade tool steel is no joke. Much easier on your
other tools to start with a low-end tool.

on 11/12/12 2:05 PM, Charles Hill at chillmog at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> On 11/12/2012 3:45 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>> riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>>> Thin it with a grinder, shorten it with a cut off wheel, bend it with a
>>> hot wrench.     You can turn about any 1/2"  wrench into what you need.
>> 
>> Usually my first step in this process is to go to Harbor Fright and
>> purchase a
>> wrench I don't mind mutilating.
>> 
>> mjb.
> Mark,
> My sentiment too.  I don't think I could bring myself to attack one of
> my Snap-On wrenches like that.
> 
> Charles Hill


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Nov 12 15:47:45 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 15:47:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] A nice note
Message-ID: <50A17C91.2050704@bradakis.com>

This showed up this morning on our local club list:

   There is a small group of old folks that meet for breakfast each day at the
   local McDonalds; so about once a week I fire up the MGB and join in with
   them.  Today with the cold air (in the high teens) and some snow at the
   gutters I backed the MGB out of the shop just before daybreak.  It is a
   thrill to hear the engine come to life, to smell the new interior and feel
   the strong firm steering as I look out the shortened windscreen.  Each shift
   of the gears brings a smile to my face as I listen as the RPM increase.  I
   am not too sure that life can get any better than this........


Pretty nice sentiment.

mjb.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Nov 12 17:04:33 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 18:04:33 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] A nice note
In-Reply-To: <50A17C91.2050704@bradakis.com>
References: <50A17C91.2050704@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <46478.173.111.83.155.1352765073.squirrel@wm.wi.net>

Thanks for that Mark and whomever the author is!  This is precisely
what owning an LBC, or other sports car, is all about.  Had my MGA
out today.  Top down, 32*, 25 mph breeze and then I drove
x5mph!  Sure glad the heater works!  Can't  wait until
Spring!

Good story.
Dave W.
'59 MGA 1500
'59
:{)


> This showed up this morning on our local club
list:
> 
>    There is a small group of old folks that
meet for breakfast each day at
> the
>    local McDonalds;
so about once a week I fire up the MGB and join in
> with
>    them.  Today with the cold air (in the high teens) and some snow
at the
>    gutters I backed the MGB out of the shop just before
daybreak.  It is a
>    thrill to hear the engine come to life, to
smell the new interior and
> feel
>    the strong firm
steering as I look out the shortened windscreen.  Each
> shift
>    of the gears brings a smile to my face as I listen as the RPM
increase.
>  I
>    am not too sure that life can get any
better than this........
> 
> 
> Pretty nice
sentiment.
> 
> mjb.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Nov 13 01:50:22 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 08:50:22 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] A nice note
References: <50A17C91.2050704@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <AF02883EC63647E1BA0F2C523A61952C@paul>

Had my own uncharacteristic fit of poetry some years ago, and topical too:

"Sunday morning, 9:30. Sun burning the autumn mist off nicely. Definitely a
day for getting the Sunday papers in the roadster. Through the lanes and
villages of Warwickshire, the suns rays streaming through the trees and
clearly visible in the remaining mist. Hedges, power and telephone cables,
and most of all the fields, covered in what looks like the finest jewelled
lace, but is the morning dew on sheets of spiders gossamer in the low angle
of the sun. As the car twists and turns, over clear rises and into sheltered
hollows, running sweetly in the cool morning air, the screen mists and
clears again, sometimes inside sometimes out, sometimes both together. Forty
miles and an hour and a half later return home. Wonderful. The paper? Bought
it where I always do of course, at the local shop just down the road."

It was subsequently included in a dissertation on the joys of classic car 
ownership.

PaulH.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 13 05:16:37 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 04:16:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go? Update
In-Reply-To: <26BC5A3D320E49FEB95C9FE106D9A4C3@paul>
References: <8B5593AB-3722-4894-9880-D3E3611129C7@yahoo.com>
	<201211112249.qABMnRHV003935@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<26BC5A3D320E49FEB95C9FE106D9A4C3@paul>
Message-ID: <1352808997.44058.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

A small update - I checked the fluid in the MC last night, and it was down a
little. Poking around underneath the MC on the inner wing, and
it seems like
the paint has crinkled a little bit, and was damp, leading me to believe that
I have a seepage issue, perhaps from the vacuum 

hose connection to the MC.
It doesn't seem to be enough to empty the entire MC, and there are no puddles
lower down and, as I mentioned 

in my original note, no leakage on the garage
floor. Didn't poke around too much as I was wearing decent clothes, but will
this weekend. I have 

never replaced the vacuum hose so that could certainly
be an issue, and never messed with the MC either. Will continue to monitor the
fluid level.

Thanks...

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: PaulHunt73
<paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
To: Dan Dibiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>; mg mgb
<mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>; mglist <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, November
12, 2012 3:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
 
It should
also have split braking system, and the servo can only suck fluid
from the
rear chamber.  That *is* the front brakes, so you do lose about 75%
of the
braking effort (which makes this split system rather pointless in my
view),
and the pedal will go further towards the floor, but not all the way,
and
there should still be some brakes.

If both chambers are empty then it could
be the shuttle valve for the imbalance warning light leaking, but I wouldn't
expect a single seal failure to empty both chambers.

PaulH.

----- Original
Message ----- 
> The '76 should have a power brake booster.  If the vacuum
diaphragm in the
> booster splits or looses the seal, engien vacuum can pull
fluid out of the
> master cylinder into the intake manifold to be burned in
the engine.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov 13 05:46:50 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 06:46:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch I just took the car for a spin to see if
 pumping the cluch made any change. It did not. I let the car run in the
 drive way for about 10 minutes and then the clulch would not engage at all.
In-Reply-To: <4D339971D4F14F8EA7E335B4834B3F6E@OwnerPC>
References: <4D339971D4F14F8EA7E335B4834B3F6E@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <50A2413A.9000706@ktc.com>

Just out of curiosity I looked on Ebay, found this: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MGA-MGB-MG-MIDGET-CLUTCH-HOSE-NEW-GHP517-/110938532270

They say they have two left.

I had a hose that blocked on my B, held the clutch disengaged.  To prove 
it I opened the bleed screw momentarily, watched the throwout fork release.

CR
On 11/11/2012 4:30 PM, Tom Gunderson wrote:
> I just took the car for a spin to see if pumping the cluch made any change. It
> did not. The clutch was not slipping at this time.  I drove it about 2 miles
> then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then the clutch quit. I have seen a hose
> replacement on Ebay at half the price of Moss.  I had to push is back into the
> garage. When I first drove the car the clutch would pop and spin the tires.
>
> Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov 13 05:48:02 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 06:48:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA clutch I just took the car for a spin to see if
 pumping the cluch made any change. It did not. I let the car run in the
 drive way for about 10 minutes and then the clulch would not engage at all.
In-Reply-To: <4D339971D4F14F8EA7E335B4834B3F6E@OwnerPC>
References: <4D339971D4F14F8EA7E335B4834B3F6E@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <50A24182.6070401@ktc.com>

Just out of curiosity I looked on Ebay, found this: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MGA-MGB-MG-MIDGET-CLUTCH-HOSE-NEW-GHP517-/110938532270

They say they have two left.

I had a hose that blocked on my B, held the clutch disengaged.  To prove 
it I opened the bleed screw momentarily, watched the throwout fork release.

CR
On 11/11/2012 4:30 PM, Tom Gunderson wrote:
> I just took the car for a spin to see if pumping the cluch made any change. It
> did not. The clutch was not slipping at this time.  I drove it about 2 miles
> then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then the clutch quit. I have seen a hose
> replacement on Ebay at half the price of Moss.  I had to push is back into the
> garage. When I first drove the car the clutch would pop and spin the tires.
>
> Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov 13 06:17:59 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 07:17:59 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <509FD2D5.8080009@justbrits.com>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
  <509FD2D5.8080009@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <50A24887.90403@ktc.com>

I have a set of open-end ignition wrenches made by Giller; don't 
remember how I came by them.  There are a couple of interesting sizes: 
1/4 x 15/64  & 11/32 x 9/32.  Haven't used them in years.

CR
On 11/11/2012 10:31 AM, " Just Brits " Shop wrote:
> Glenn & guys;

> I seem to recall Snap-On selling a three (3) piece SET of "Ignition 
> Wrenches" MANY, MANY years ago. However Glenn & IIRC, the largest was 
> 7/16" & 3/8" then 3/8" & 1/4" them 1/4" & 3/16". All three (3) were of 
> thin-wall construction with both 'heads' at 90 degrees to the shaft. 
> As usual, Snap-On would & did sell the wrenches separately <VBG> ! ! ! 
> Sorry Glenn, but I do NOT re-call a 4th wrench with would have been 
> 7/16" & 1/2" or the "set" starting there and going down in size (I am 
> next to positive on this - LOL) ! ! ! If I can find my 7/16" & 3/8" 
> wrench, I get ya'll some pics and measurements. 'Big' one is about 
> three.five" ( 3 1/2") long. Ed Please visit MY site at: 
> www.justbrits.com PS: <lite bulb going off> Eureka, Sears had a 
> roll-up kit in red plastic & IIRC, wrenches were Craftsmen. 
> _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation 
> $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: 
> http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov 13 06:25:11 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 07:25:11 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Where does the brake fluid go?
In-Reply-To: <CCC5A5CA.40CA1%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CCC5A5CA.40CA1%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <50A24A37.9030509@ktc.com>

I had a '70 B that wet the carpet. :-)     My present '69 B lost fluid 
over time, never did find the leak.  That's the MC that I replaced 
because the check valve(s)  would stick intermittently and the pedal 
would go to the floor.   Replaced it with a repro unit from lbcarco 
(moss) last spring.  Haven't had a problem since.

CR
On 11/11/2012 8:58 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> Check the carpet in the footwell -- it soaks it up pretty good.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 11/11/12 2:35 PM, Dan Dibiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> Went to take a drive in the '76 B today and started backing down the driveway
>> only to have the brake pedal go to the floor... Fortunately the e-brake works
>> great! Popped the hood and the brake master cylinder was almost dry. No fluid
>> on the garage floor or in the car. It's been a couple of weeks since I drove
>> the car, due to Hurricane Sandy. Where could the fluid have gone??
>>
>> Sent from Dan's iPhone
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Tue Nov 13 11:24:50 2012
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 12:24:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Odd wrenches
In-Reply-To: <50A16E05.5030908@bradakis.com>
References: <509EF893.2020800@comcast.net>
	<20121111140904.210550@gmx.net><CACOF-To=wyhB9-d8pgp-AogdwP=9mJXKipN1dye8XnBCOvV6+A@mail.gmail.com><8449B4565A3A4AD69D760DFF14B3275E@rileyPC>
	<50A16E05.5030908@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <D307B39B5E184942833C2FE48AB5C2DB@YOURF3E40984A8>

I save the cheap stamped-out wrenches that come with furniture kits,
appliance repair kits, and so on. They're easy to grind and reshape as
needed.

David

From thgun at comporium.net  Wed Nov 14 15:28:50 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 17:28:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brake lights
Message-ID: <E0D980A52C3B4771BDBEF491884406BD@OwnerPC>

Here is another thing. My brake lights quit. I have checked the switch. It is
good. It seems that there is no power getting to the switch. The 1500 has a
relay box. How can I check the relay box?
Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Nov 14 15:46:19 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 16:46:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] brake lights
In-Reply-To: <E0D980A52C3B4771BDBEF491884406BD@OwnerPC>
References: <E0D980A52C3B4771BDBEF491884406BD@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <201211142246.qAEMkIkA008371@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_f2.htm
No power to the brake switch, check the fuse and the green wire snap 
connector near the starter switch.  If there is anything else in the 
turn signals or brake lights that does not work, see here: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et105.htm
and here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et103.htm


At 05:28 PM 11/14/2012 -0500, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>.... My brake lights quit. I have checked the switch. It is good. It 
>seems that there is no power getting to the switch. The 1500 has a 
>relay box. How can I check the relay box?
>....

From thgun at comporium.net  Wed Nov 14 16:02:11 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 18:02:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA top
Message-ID: <57D8CC03ECC3402C8A1A622445FEAF25@OwnerPC>

I need to see some pictures of how the top is wrapped around the front bow.
They make a clip that helps the secure the top. I would like to see how it is
mounted to the top and windshield.
Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Nov 14 18:36:56 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 19:36:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA top
In-Reply-To: <57D8CC03ECC3402C8A1A622445FEAF25@OwnerPC>
References: <57D8CC03ECC3402C8A1A622445FEAF25@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <201211150137.qAF1b5ph015111@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top103.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top105.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top107.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top107a.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top114.htm

Notice thre different wood bows in two different lengths.  First bow 
was for the 1500  with no center latch.  Second bow for the 1600 was 
thicker to accommodate the center latch, and it can be used on the 
1500 (except for concours show).  The third bow is longer to 
accommodate the wider canopy introduced in mid-1600 production.  If 
you try to install one of the narrow canopies on the long bow you're 
screwed.  The longer 3rd bow can be shortened to 2nd bow specifications.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 06:02 PM 11/14/2012 -0500, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>I need to see some pictures of how the top is wrapped around the 
>front bow.  They make a clip that helps the secure the top. I would 
>like to see how it is  mounted to the top and windshield.
>....

From WLHoss at aol.com  Mon Nov 19 09:07:41 2012
From: WLHoss at aol.com (WLHoss at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 11:07:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Mgs] Trying to Start My 58 MGA
Message-ID: <39828.4921f70a.3ddbb34d@aol.com>

Hi,
 
After letting my car sit for close to two years I'm making a  concerted 
effort to get it running in the next week or so.  I've removed  what old gas 
was in the tank and replaced the fuel filters and a  kinked section of gas 
line and I seem to have good gas flow to the  carburetors (pressure gauge set 
on two).  The dash pots have oil and the  choke is working properly.
 
It appears the points are gapped correctly and are opening and  closing.  
Can someone explain or point me to something on line that  shows how to check 
for spark - preferably without getting  the bit?   

I tried to check the archives but couldn't bring them up this afternoon  
(Sat 2 PM CST) and nothing jumped out at me on Barney's site when I  looked.
 
Thanks for any help,
 
Bill Hoss
St. Louis, MO

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Nov 19 09:18:26 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 10:18:26 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Trying to Start My 58 MGA
In-Reply-To: <39828.4921f70a.3ddbb34d@aol.com>
References: <39828.4921f70a.3ddbb34d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <02F7D74A-14A3-4933-9D59-2E148C86CAD2@gmail.com>

If you have a timing light. Hook it up to each wire in turn (staring with coil
to dizzy), and see that something happens when cranking.

If you don't have a timing light, you really need one. But to just check for
spark, you can hold a wire with insulated pliers near to a metal part under
the hood, and the spark should jump when cranking.

Once you have reliable spark, you'll need to use the timing light to make sure
you have the timing right, or close.


On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:07 AM, WLHoss at aol.com wrote:

> Hi,
>
> After letting my car sit for close to two years I'm making a  concerted
> effort to get it running in the next week or so.  I've removed  what old gas
> was in the tank and replaced the fuel filters and a  kinked section of gas
> line and I seem to have good gas flow to the  carburetors (pressure gauge
set
> on two).  The dash pots have oil and the  choke is working properly.
>
> It appears the points are gapped correctly and are opening and  closing.
> Can someone explain or point me to something on line that  shows how to
check
> for spark - preferably without getting  the bit?
>
> I tried to check the archives but couldn't bring them up this afternoon
> (Sat 2 PM CST) and nothing jumped out at me on Barney's site when I
looked.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Bill Hoss
> St. Louis, MO
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Nov 19 09:38:34 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:38:34 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Trying to Start My 58 MGA
References: <39828.4921f70a.3ddbb34d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5A57806AB3524282AA245AEB62F07F8A@paul>

Remove the distributor cap, remove the coil lead from it and connect the 
lead to a plug laying on the block.  Turn on the ignition and flick the 
points open and closed.  There should be two effects - one is a bit of 
arcing at the points, and the other is a spark jumping the plug gap.

If there is no arcing at the points you need to check the voltages on the 
coil SW and CB (or maybe +ve and -ve).  There should be 12v on the SW all 
the time the ignition is on.  On the other terminal there should be 12v when 
the points are *open*, and an earth when they are closed.  12v all the time 
in this second wire means the circuit through the points is broken.  Earth 
all the time means something is shorting them out.

If there is lot of arcing and spitting at the points the condenser may have 
failed.  There is not much you can do to confirm this apart from 
substitution, but rather than remove the old one and fit a new straight 
away, jury-rig the new one between the wire going to the points and the body 
of the distributor.  If the spitting and arcing reduces significantly, then 
the old condenser *has* failed.

When you have a good spark at the plug, refit the distributor cap and coil 
lead, and try cranking.  If no go take the plugs out and sniff them and make 
sure there is a good strong smell of petrol on each of them.

If so connect the plug leads to the plugs (one at a time to stop them 
falling off) laying on the block and crank, and check they are all sparking. 
If not then the rotor or cap could be breaking down.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Can someone explain or point me to something on line that  shows how to 
> check
> for spark - preferably without getting  the bit?

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Nov 19 09:54:32 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:54:32 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Trying to Start My 58 MGA
References: <39828.4921f70a.3ddbb34d@aol.com>
	<02F7D74A-14A3-4933-9D59-2E148C86CAD2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <386048713C18415291B2C1D7D4AD0BF9@paul>

This will work with an old-fashioned 2-wire neon light, but may not with a 
12v light unless you power it from a separate battery as the effort of 
cranking can reduce the voltage below that at which the timing light will 
operate.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> If you have a timing light. Hook it up to each wire in turn (staring with 
> coil
> to dizzy), and see that something happens when cranking.

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Nov 19 16:31:43 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 15:31:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] New Capital One ad
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyOWoZ5oWDpWFE3O5DW=5r3d=0f=Smb3fdZma91nh71fYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CCD0015F.410BD%mvheim@sonic.net>

Haven't seen that one. But I just saw a red MGA on the street here in Menlo
Park, top down.


on 11/17/12 6:50 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> Has anyone seen the new Capital One ad with Jimmy Fallon? At the end of the
> ad is a very nice MGA!
> 
> Simon

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Nov 21 12:23:36 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 13:23:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Send Me Your Colors (MGA only please)
Message-ID: <201211211923.qALJNZGM005390@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

With all the recent discussion on paint colors, I am finally getting 
motivated to post a few more web pages on MGA paint colors.  I 
already have pages for Two-Tone and Stripes, but more pictures would 
be welcome.  More important will be pictures of MGA with original 
colors, as I want to document every original paint color combination 
ever used on MGA (and the few existing web sites have never been 
completed with all colors).  I will also be making pages for 
non-original colors (popular or otherwise), poison colors, metallic 
paints, and perhaps anything else you may like to throw at me.  You 
don't have to post dozens (or hundreds) of pictures on this 
forum.  It would be a bit more convenient for me if you send them 
directly to my personal email address, barneymg at mgaguru.com
You can also send larger photos that way.
Thanks in advance, and let the photos roll.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA wuith an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Nov 21 13:42:14 2012
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 20:42:14 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] the voltage stabilizer dilemma
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA53DA7ACE@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

Another warm day today so I drove the 72B to work today. It does have an
interesting problem of which I need to provide a bit of history. I had a body
shop restore and paint a 72 body shell (a parts car I bought about 10 years
ago), and I transplanted the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear axle) from
my rusted out 71BGT in to it. After I got it running, I noticed that the
engine appeared to overheat (on the gauge) which turned out to be an
improperly grounded voltage regulator. I fixed that problem but the fuel gauge
always tended to read low. In particular, a full tank always starts about 1/8"
below full and drops to > after 10-20 miles and then = tank after about 80
miles. I know I can recalibrate the gauge but it was just an annoyance so I
put it off. The coolant temperature gauge also probably ran low as it always
ran a little below the halfway mark, below "N" but nothing unusual there.

Then a few months ago, I noticed that the coolant temperature was running a
bit cooler, about halfway between C and N, so I bought a thermostat which I
still haven't got around to replacing. Maybe that was a good thing because the
last month or so when driving, I noticed that sometimes the coolant gauge
would actually drop to almost "C" and the fuel gauge would like wise drop,
only to return back to more normal readings minutes later. With both in
tandem, I figured it had to be the voltage stabilizer. And at a cost of around
$11, I bought a new one from Moss and installed it.

Yesterday, with an almost full tank of gas (6 miles less than full and the
gauge at its usual full position about an 1/8" shy of F), the problem
reappeared. I was driving, glanced at the coolant temperature and it was down
to almost "C" and the full tank read a mere half tank on the fuel gauge. A
mile or so later, it was back to normal. So it doesn't look like the
stabilizer unless I coincidentally have two bad ones (not likely but not
impossible). Things are normal this morning but this evening will be a drive
in the dark if that is relevant. I should throw in the fact that during the
restoration (~8-10 years ago), I replaced the wiring harness with a new one
and the instrument gauges are grounded with the black ground wire from the
harness.

So I am not sure the next step to figure out this annoyance. But I figure
since the list isn't seeing much traffic right now, this will make a timely
inquiry and save us from someone posting on whether the list is up or not :)

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Nov 21 14:35:59 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 13:35:59 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] the voltage stabilizer dilemma
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA53DA7ACE@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <CCD2893F.411BC%mvheim@sonic.net>

I'm trying to recall, is there supposed to be a grounding strap to the fuel
tank?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 11/21/12 12:42 PM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> Another warm day today so I drove the 72B to work today. It does have an
> interesting problem of which I need to provide a bit of history. I had a body
> shop restore and paint a 72 body shell (a parts car I bought about 10 years
> ago), and I transplanted the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear axle) from
> my rusted out 71BGT in to it. After I got it running, I noticed that the
> engine appeared to overheat (on the gauge) which turned out to be an
> improperly grounded voltage regulator. I fixed that problem but the fuel gauge
> always tended to read low. In particular, a full tank always starts about 1/8"
> below full and drops to > after 10-20 miles and then = tank after about 80
> miles. I know I can recalibrate the gauge but it was just an annoyance so I
> put it off. The coolant temperature gauge also probably ran low as it always
> ran a little below the halfway mark, below "N" but nothing unusual there.
> 
> Then a few months ago, I noticed that the coolant temperature was running a
> bit cooler, about halfway between C and N, so I bought a thermostat which I
> still haven't got around to replacing. Maybe that was a good thing because the
> last month or so when driving, I noticed that sometimes the coolant gauge
> would actually drop to almost "C" and the fuel gauge would like wise drop,
> only to return back to more normal readings minutes later. With both in
> tandem, I figured it had to be the voltage stabilizer. And at a cost of around
> $11, I bought a new one from Moss and installed it.
> 
> Yesterday, with an almost full tank of gas (6 miles less than full and the
> gauge at its usual full position about an 1/8" shy of F), the problem
> reappeared. I was driving, glanced at the coolant temperature and it was down
> to almost "C" and the full tank read a mere half tank on the fuel gauge. A
> mile or so later, it was back to normal. So it doesn't look like the
> stabilizer unless I coincidentally have two bad ones (not likely but not
> impossible). Things are normal this morning but this evening will be a drive
> in the dark if that is relevant. I should throw in the fact that during the
> restoration (~8-10 years ago), I replaced the wiring harness with a new one
> and the instrument gauges are grounded with the black ground wire from the
> harness.
> 
> So I am not sure the next step to figure out this annoyance. But I figure
> since the list isn't seeing much traffic right now, this will make a timely
> inquiry and save us from someone posting on whether the list is up or not :)
> 
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Nov 22 03:02:20 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 10:02:20 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] the voltage stabilizer dilemma
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA53DA7ACE@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <70560D66135247A58CABEFF63C6B6A5B@paul>

Test it.  A voltmeter on the light-green/green wire from the stabiliser 'I'
terminal to the fuel and temp gauges should show 12v when you first switch the
ignition on for several seconds, then start pulsing on and off about once per
second.  However unless the voltage is reading less than 12v when it's on then
it's going to be tricky to check that the on and off periods are averaging
about 10v as they should, and not something significantly lower.  If you are
inclined you can make a test rig consisting of a 10uF capacitor, a 100k
resistor, and a diode.  Connect them in series so that current can flow from
the light-green/green wire (I took mine off the fuel gauge which is the only
stabilised gauge)  through the diode and the resistor to the capacitor, which
is connected to earth on the car.  Observe polarity on the capacitor if it is
marked with + or -.  Connect your meter across the capacitor and turn on the
ignition.  The voltage should slowly rise, and it may reach battery voltage
before the stabiliser starts pulsing on and off.  Once it starts pulsing, the
voltage will slowly settle at the average, which should be about 10v (mine
measures 9.5v).  The component values aren't critical, the smaller the
capacitor the quicker the rising and settling times will be, but it will waver
more about the average rather than give steady reading.  Ditto the resistor.
The diode is to stop the capacitor discharging back through the stabiliser
heater winding, and without it the meter reading will waver more.  I've been
wondering about a test rig for years, and your question was the prompt to send
me out to the garage and have a go.

The black wires on those gauges are only for the night-time illumination,
nothing to do with their operation.  The sender should have a black earth wire
from the uninsulated terminal on the sender to the earthing point in the boot
on one of the number plate fixing bolts, which also serves the fuel pump and
reversing lights.  However with both gauges suddenly reading low I doubt it is
that.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  So I am not sure the next step to figure out this annoyance.

From thgun at comporium.net  Thu Nov 22 08:56:55 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 10:56:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brake wire
Message-ID: <D5C67E697E564951908BD149B988C921@OwnerPC>

Can someone tell me where the joint in the wire harness is going to the rear
after the brake switch? I think the wire to the brake lights is loose.

Tom Gunderson 1957MGA 1500

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Nov 22 10:04:03 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:04:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] the voltage stabilizer dilemma
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA53DA7ACE@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
References: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA53DA7ACE@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <50AE5B03.1050104@ktc.com>

If I remember right, the stabilizer's ground is through its case. So 
it's important that the bolt that holds it in is tight.  Also that the 
stab is mounted right side up. The gauges are in parallel off the stab, 
so since both of them are affected I wouldn't suspect something loose in 
the wiring from the stab to the gauges.  Perhaps the wire carrying 
voltage *to* the stab is loose.  You might want to check that everything 
is clean and tight at the fuse block too.  All I can figure is that 
there's an intermittently bad connection somewhere.

CR
On 11/21/2012 2:42 PM, Councill, David wrote:
> Another warm day today so I drove the 72B to work today. It does have an
> interesting problem of which I need to provide a bit of history. I had a body
> shop restore and paint a 72 body shell (a parts car I bought about 10 years
> ago), and I transplanted the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear axle) from
> my rusted out 71BGT in to it. After I got it running, I noticed that the
> engine appeared to overheat (on the gauge) which turned out to be an
> improperly grounded voltage regulator. I fixed that problem but the fuel gauge
> always tended to read low. In particular, a full tank always starts about 1/8"
> below full and drops to > after 10-20 miles and then = tank after about 80
> miles. I know I can recalibrate the gauge but it was just an annoyance so I
> put it off. The coolant temperature gauge also probably ran low as it always
> ran a little below the halfway mark, below "N" but nothing unusual there.
>
> Then a few months ago, I noticed that the coolant temperature was running a
> bit cooler, about halfway between C and N, so I bought a thermostat which I
> still haven't got around to replacing. Maybe that was a good thing because the
> last month or so when driving, I noticed that sometimes the coolant gauge
> would actually drop to almost "C" and the fuel gauge would like wise drop,
> only to return back to more normal readings minutes later. With both in
> tandem, I figured it had to be the voltage stabilizer. And at a cost of around
> $11, I bought a new one from Moss and installed it.
>
> Yesterday, with an almost full tank of gas (6 miles less than full and the
> gauge at its usual full position about an 1/8" shy of F), the problem
> reappeared. I was driving, glanced at the coolant temperature and it was down
> to almost "C" and the full tank read a mere half tank on the fuel gauge. A
> mile or so later, it was back to normal. So it doesn't look like the
> stabilizer unless I coincidentally have two bad ones (not likely but not
> impossible). Things are normal this morning but this evening will be a drive
> in the dark if that is relevant. I should throw in the fact that during the
> restoration (~8-10 years ago), I replaced the wiring harness with a new one
> and the instrument gauges are grounded with the black ground wire from the
> harness.
>
> So I am not sure the next step to figure out this annoyance. But I figure
> since the list isn't seeing much traffic right now, this will make a timely
> inquiry and save us from someone posting on whether the list is up or not :)
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Nov 22 11:34:13 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:34:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] brake wire
In-Reply-To: <D5C67E697E564951908BD149B988C921@OwnerPC>
References: <D5C67E697E564951908BD149B988C921@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <201211221901.qAMJ13mj031132@nlpi162.prodigy.net>

For MGA 1500, see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_f2.htm


At 10:56 AM 11/22/2012 -0500, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>Can someone tell me where the joint in the wire harness is going to the rear
>after the brake switch? I think the wire to the brake lights is loose.
>
>.... 1957MGA 1500

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Nov 22 13:43:31 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:43:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Trying to Start My 58 MGA
In-Reply-To: <39828.4921f70a.3ddbb34d@aol.com>
References: <39828.4921f70a.3ddbb34d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201211222043.qAMKhU75018183@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig108.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig106.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig106a.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ignition.htm


At 11:07 AM 11/19/2012 -0500, Bill Hoss (WLHoss at aol.com) wrote:
>....
>.... I've removed  what old gas was in the tank and replaced the 
>fuel filters and a  kinked section of gas line and I seem to have 
>good gas flow to the  carburetors (pressure gauge set on two).  The 
>dash pots have oil and the  choke is working properly.
>
>It appears the points are gapped correctly and are opening 
>and  closing.  Can someone explain or point me to something on line 
>that  shows how to check for spark - preferably without getting  the bit?
>....

From grabow.bernie at gmail.com  Thu Nov 22 17:25:28 2012
From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com (Bernie Grabow)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 19:25:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
Message-ID: <CAAtkytc-kLgwshvSSi-7AVzY3X2QHFD=KKzO2RHJ-_BpWa9g9A@mail.gmail.com>

Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?
Bernie

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Nov 22 18:07:44 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 19:07:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
In-Reply-To: <CAAtkytc-kLgwshvSSi-7AVzY3X2QHFD=KKzO2RHJ-_BpWa9g9A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAtkytc-kLgwshvSSi-7AVzY3X2QHFD=KKzO2RHJ-_BpWa9g9A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CFAFCC18-7657-4036-BBCB-E6B885E6FA74@gmail.com>

I think it will fit, but it won't work .  The doors are different part numbers
in the Moss catalog.

The issue is the greenhouse is taller in the BGT, and it has a full frame
around the window. I don't know how it connects to the door.


On Nov 22, 2012, at 6:25 PM, Bernie Grabow wrote:

> Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?
> Bernie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From lundgren at byu.net  Thu Nov 22 18:09:51 2012
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 18:09:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
Message-ID: <9ieafvx6030phowpayqsjxpe.1353632902872@email.android.com>

Check the moss catalog, but I am sure there will problems.

--
Andrew Lundgren
lundgren at byu.net

Bernie Grabow <grabow.bernie at gmail.com> wrote:

>Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?
>Bernie
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net

From grabow.bernie at gmail.com  Thu Nov 22 18:16:41 2012
From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com (Bernie Grabow)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 20:16:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
In-Reply-To: <9ieafvx6030phowpayqsjxpe.1353632902872@email.android.com>
References: <9ieafvx6030phowpayqsjxpe.1353632902872@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CAAtkytfqf6SpQcvod+jsPibRH341Ju73U76t8+DM+zb66qP=FQ@mail.gmail.com>

I did notice different part numbers in Moss but wasn't sure.  There is no
frame around the window on my 72 GT.

On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 8:09 PM, Andrew Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net> wrote:

> Check the moss catalog, but I am sure there will problems.
>
> --
> Andrew Lundgren
> lundgren at byu.net
>
>
> Bernie Grabow <grabow.bernie at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?
> Bernie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net

From bmills46 at earthlink.net  Thu Nov 22 18:42:42 2012
From: bmills46 at earthlink.net (Bill Mills)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 20:42:42 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
Message-ID: <6548370.1353634962504.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

The doors themselves are the same.  The difference will be that all the window hardware from GT will have to be swapped to the roadster door.  The glass is different including the vent window.  The GT vent window is taller than the one on the roadster.  

Bill
74 BGT

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bernie Grabow <grabow.bernie at gmail.com>
>Sent: Nov 22, 2012 7:25 PM
>To: mgs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
>
>Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?
>Bernie
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/bmills46 at earthlink.net

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Nov 23 01:53:02 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 08:53:02 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
References: <CAAtkytc-kLgwshvSSi-7AVzY3X2QHFD=KKzO2RHJ-_BpWa9g9A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F04A6ADFD0954A41BA7EBDFFBE777D1E@paul>

They have different part numbers because the cut-outs in the top for the 
drop-glass and quarterlights are different.  The quarterlights themselves 
are different of course, being taller and differently shaped at the top. 
The drop glass and runners are also different, but the mechanism seems to be 
the same.  The seals to the drop-glass at the top of the door are also 
different.  The different quarterlight may mean the mounting is different, 
I've never looked to see if it is or not.  Anything is possible as regards 
making things fit, depending on how desperate you are.

No MGB had a full frame round the drop glass.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?

From grabow.bernie at gmail.com  Fri Nov 23 09:02:54 2012
From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com (Bernie Grabow)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 11:02:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
In-Reply-To: <F04A6ADFD0954A41BA7EBDFFBE777D1E@paul>
References: <CAAtkytc-kLgwshvSSi-7AVzY3X2QHFD=KKzO2RHJ-_BpWa9g9A@mail.gmail.com>
	<F04A6ADFD0954A41BA7EBDFFBE777D1E@paul>
Message-ID: <CAAtkytd9TNbLewAS+9i93ESx3nMcK6+QnrcYHmM6Nv7r+0eucw@mail.gmail.com>

Paul
Based on your comments I guess I need to continue my search for a passenger
side door for my 72 GT.  My wife backed the SUV into the door on my GT and
I was going to replace it rather than trying to bang it out and add bondo.
The glass and internals on my door weren't damaged so I was hoping I could
just switch them out to the 72 MGB door I found.  Thanks for the advice.
Bernie
On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 3:53 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>wrote:

> They have different part numbers because the cut-outs in the top for the
> drop-glass and quarterlights are different.  The quarterlights themselves
> are different of course, being taller and differently shaped at the top.
> The drop glass and runners are also different, but the mechanism seems to
> be the same.  The seals to the drop-glass at the top of the door are also
> different.  The different quarterlight may mean the mounting is different,
> I've never looked to see if it is or not.  Anything is possible as regards
> making things fit, depending on how desperate you are.
>
> No MGB had a full frame round the drop glass.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Nov 23 10:52:13 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 12:52:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hayden
Message-ID: <E1TbxdJ-0000AH-5G@beta.look.ca>

Anyone interested in a 12" Hayden radiator fan.  It has not been used 
much.  Any reasonable offer accepted

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Fri Nov 23 14:16:43 2012
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 16:16:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
In-Reply-To: <CAAtkytd9TNbLewAS+9i93ESx3nMcK6+QnrcYHmM6Nv7r+0eucw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAtkytc-kLgwshvSSi-7AVzY3X2QHFD=KKzO2RHJ-_BpWa9g9A@mail.gmail.com>
	<F04A6ADFD0954A41BA7EBDFFBE777D1E@paul>
	<CAAtkytd9TNbLewAS+9i93ESx3nMcK6+QnrcYHmM6Nv7r+0eucw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D10745FD-8E33-467C-A049-94CA7B697377@snet.net>

How about a door skin, or de-skin a roadster door you can probably get for
cheap?

Sent via iPad
Jim Juhas

On Nov 23, 2012, at 11:02 AM, Bernie Grabow <grabow.bernie at gmail.com> wrote:

> Paul
> Based on your comments I guess I need to continue my search for a passenger
> side door for my 72 GT.  My wife backed the SUV into the door on my GT and
> I was going to replace it rather than trying to bang it out and add bondo.
> The glass and internals on my door weren't damaged so I was hoping I could
> just switch them out to the 72 MGB door I found.  Thanks for the advice.
> Bernie
> On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 3:53 AM, PaulHunt73
<paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>wrote:
>
>> They have different part numbers because the cut-outs in the top for the
>> drop-glass and quarterlights are different.  The quarterlights themselves
>> are different of course, being taller and differently shaped at the top.
>> The drop glass and runners are also different, but the mechanism seems to
>> be the same.  The seals to the drop-glass at the top of the door are also
>> different.  The different quarterlight may mean the mounting is different,
>> I've never looked to see if it is or not.  Anything is possible as regards
>> making things fit, depending on how desperate you are.
>>
>> No MGB had a full frame round the drop glass.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>> Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/james.f.juhas at snet.net

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Nov 23 15:59:07 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 14:59:07 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyMR=2hzPM39zXN19+kPwfdRUH0ikUeMeu_MjPsjynSxSw@mail.gmail.com>

On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the float
chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes obvious:
the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.

So, my question is: how important is it to attempt to remove the shank of
the screw and put in a new screw? If I mess up the removal, I might damage
the float chamber, which then apparently means a new carburettor (Moss
doesn't show the float chamber as a separate item). So I am wondering about
re-assembling with only 2 screws.

Simon

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Nov 23 16:53:19 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 15:53:19 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Door compatibility roadster and gt's
In-Reply-To: <CAAtkytd9TNbLewAS+9i93ESx3nMcK6+QnrcYHmM6Nv7r+0eucw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CCD54C6F.4126A%mvheim@sonic.net>

I thuoght door skins were available. That would seem to be just what you
need.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 11/23/12 8:02 AM, Bernie Grabow at grabow.bernie at gmail.com wrote:

> Paul
> Based on your comments I guess I need to continue my search for a passenger
> side door for my 72 GT.  My wife backed the SUV into the door on my GT and
> I was going to replace it rather than trying to bang it out and add bondo.
> The glass and internals on my door weren't damaged so I was hoping I could
> just switch them out to the 72 MGB door I found.  Thanks for the advice.
> Bernie
> On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 3:53 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>wrote:
> 
>> They have different part numbers because the cut-outs in the top for the
>> drop-glass and quarterlights are different.  The quarterlights themselves
>> are different of course, being taller and differently shaped at the top.
>> The drop glass and runners are also different, but the mechanism seems to
>> be the same.  The seals to the drop-glass at the top of the door are also
>> different.  The different quarterlight may mean the mounting is different,
>> I've never looked to see if it is or not.  Anything is possible as regards
>> making things fit, depending on how desperate you are.
>> 
>> No MGB had a full frame round the drop glass.
>> 
>> PaulH.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>>> Will a door from a 72 MGB roadster fit a 72 MGB GT?
> _______________________________________________

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Nov 23 20:07:12 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 19:07:12 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
In-Reply-To: <C678B509AD1F434AA552D7FA57825EB3@stargate>
References: <CAEUYfyMR=2hzPM39zXN19+kPwfdRUH0ikUeMeu_MjPsjynSxSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<C678B509AD1F434AA552D7FA57825EB3@stargate>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyPGML2cL1VdhZj+ApvYrjTy3+c-j2OwUF+oqRH5FW3tdg@mail.gmail.com>

Are the float chambers the same size on carbs off an '57 MGA (this is a '71
MGB)? I have a spare set of carbs for an MGA in my garage. I could use the
float chamber from that if necessary.

Simon

On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 3:46 PM, gordies garage <mg_garage at comcast.net>wrote:

> I think I'd spend a little time trying to remove the remains of the screw,
> but would plan on replacing the float bowl if removal caused any damage at
> all to the pot metal of the bowl.  Used carbs and parts are fairly cheap
> and it would be straight forward to replace the float bowl and you would
> know you have the proper 3 screws.
>
> Good luck.
> Gordie '62 MGA
>
> ------------------------------**--------------------
> From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 5:59 PM
> To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
>
>  On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the
>> float
>> chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes obvious:
>> the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.
>>
>> So, my question is: how important is it to attempt to remove the shank of
>> the screw and put in a new screw? If I mess up the removal, I might damage
>> the float chamber, which then apparently means a new carburettor (Moss
>> doesn't show the float chamber as a separate item). So I am wondering
>> about
>> re-assembling with only 2 screws.
>>
>> Simon
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.**net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net>

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Nov 23 21:47:33 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 20:47:33 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
In-Reply-To: <50b0460c.2663340a.7e65.ffff9599SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
References: <CAEUYfyMR=2hzPM39zXN19+kPwfdRUH0ikUeMeu_MjPsjynSxSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<C678B509AD1F434AA552D7FA57825EB3@stargate>
	<CAEUYfyPGML2cL1VdhZj+ApvYrjTy3+c-j2OwUF+oqRH5FW3tdg@mail.gmail.com>
	<50b0460c.2663340a.7e65.ffff9599SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyNM2sb2Ut=xs-riUDECv6-tOMoPGF17g7POT+93V1UFDA@mail.gmail.com>

Don,

I just looked through the various Haynes manuals and saw that the float
chambers are different. I guess I will buy a reverse drill bit and try to
remove the remains of the screw.

Meanwhile, would anyone like to hazard some guesses as to what could cause
the problem that I wanted to fix: over-revving at idle when hot (revs at
about 3000 rpm when hot, but is around 1000 rpm when cold).

Simon

On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 7:58 PM, Don <don at napanet.net> wrote:

> Simon,
> the float bowls are a different design on MGAs.  Try posting on the MG
> Experience that you are looking for a float bowl for HS4 carb and I bet you
> can get one inexpensively and quickly.  I would try removing the remains of
> the screw on yours before taking it apart; can't hurt it really.  I think
> these carbs can function ok with two screws, but better to have three.
> Don Scott
>
>
>
>
>
> At 07:07 PM 11/23/2012, Simon Matthews wrote:
>
>> Are the float chambers the same size on carbs off an '57 MGA (this is a
>> '71
>> MGB)? I have a spare set of carbs for an MGA in my garage. I could use the
>> float chamber from that if necessary.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 3:46 PM, gordies garage <mg_garage at comcast.net
>> >wrote:
>>
>> > I think I'd spend a little time trying to remove the remains of the
>> screw,
>> > but would plan on replacing the float bowl if removal caused any damage
>> at
>> > all to the pot metal of the bowl.  Used carbs and parts are fairly cheap
>> > and it would be straight forward to replace the float bowl and you would
>> > know you have the proper 3 screws.
>> >
>> > Good luck.
>> > Gordie '62 MGA
>> >
>> > ------------------------------****--------------------
>>
>> > From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
>> > Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 5:59 PM
>> > To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> > Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
>> >
>> >  On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the
>> >> float
>> >> chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes
>> obvious:
>> >> the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.
>> >>
>> >> So, my question is: how important is it to attempt to remove the shank
>> of
>> >> the screw and put in a new screw? If I mess up the removal, I might
>> damage
>> >> the float chamber, which then apparently means a new carburettor (Moss
>> >> doesn't show the float chamber as a separate item). So I am wondering
>> >> about
>> >> re-assembling with only 2 screws.
>> >>
>> >> Simon
>> >> ______________________________****_________________
>> >>
>> >> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.****html<http://www.team.net/donate.**html>
>> <http://www.team.net/**donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>>
>>
>> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/****<http://autox.team.net/mailman/**>
>> >> options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.****net<http://autox.team.net/**
>> mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@**comcast.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net>
>> >
>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/don at napanet.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net>
>>
>>
>> -----
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2629/5415 - Release Date: 11/23/12

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Nov 23 21:48:24 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 20:48:24 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyMR=2hzPM39zXN19+kPwfdRUH0ikUeMeu_MjPsjynSxSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CCD59198.4127B%mvheim@sonic.net>

I would think it might leak a little. I had a torn gasket once and it always
had a dribble mark down the side until I replaced it. But that is going to
be a tough screw to extract, since the screw is five times harder than the
carb body.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/23/12 2:59 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the float
> chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes obvious:
> the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.
> 
> So, my question is: how important is it to attempt to remove the shank of
> the screw and put in a new screw? If I mess up the removal, I might damage
> the float chamber, which then apparently means a new carburettor (Moss
> doesn't show the float chamber as a separate item). So I am wondering about
> re-assembling with only 2 screws.
> 
> Simon

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Fri Nov 23 21:51:07 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 23:51:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyNM2sb2Ut=xs-riUDECv6-tOMoPGF17g7POT+93V1UFDA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEUYfyMR=2hzPM39zXN19+kPwfdRUH0ikUeMeu_MjPsjynSxSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<C678B509AD1F434AA552D7FA57825EB3@stargate>
	<CAEUYfyPGML2cL1VdhZj+ApvYrjTy3+c-j2OwUF+oqRH5FW3tdg@mail.gmail.com>
	<50b0460c.2663340a.7e65.ffff9599SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
	<CAEUYfyNM2sb2Ut=xs-riUDECv6-tOMoPGF17g7POT+93V1UFDA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F7C51A9C-6CB0-4CBB-804F-3254C36D8179@aol.com>

Call up Joe Curto, he'll sell you just a float bowl.  I wish they were HS2's,
I've got a pile of them.

If this was my car though, I'd say screw it and just use two.

-John

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 23, 2012, at 11:47 PM, Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Don,
>
> I just looked through the various Haynes manuals and saw that the float
> chambers are different. I guess I will buy a reverse drill bit and try to
> remove the remains of the screw.
>
> Meanwhile, would anyone like to hazard some guesses as to what could cause
> the problem that I wanted to fix: over-revving at idle when hot (revs at
> about 3000 rpm when hot, but is around 1000 rpm when cold).
>
> Simon
>
> On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 7:58 PM, Don <don at napanet.net> wrote:
>
>> Simon,
>> the float bowls are a different design on MGAs.  Try posting on the MG
>> Experience that you are looking for a float bowl for HS4 carb and I bet
you
>> can get one inexpensively and quickly.  I would try removing the remains
of
>> the screw on yours before taking it apart; can't hurt it really.  I think
>> these carbs can function ok with two screws, but better to have three.
>> Don Scott
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> At 07:07 PM 11/23/2012, Simon Matthews wrote:
>>
>>> Are the float chambers the same size on carbs off an '57 MGA (this is a
>>> '71
>>> MGB)? I have a spare set of carbs for an MGA in my garage. I could use
the
>>> float chamber from that if necessary.
>>>
>>> Simon
>>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 3:46 PM, gordies garage <mg_garage at comcast.net
>>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I think I'd spend a little time trying to remove the remains of the
>>> screw,
>>>> but would plan on replacing the float bowl if removal caused any damage
>>> at
>>>> all to the pot metal of the bowl.  Used carbs and parts are fairly cheap
>>>> and it would be straight forward to replace the float bowl and you would
>>>> know you have the proper 3 screws.
>>>>
>>>> Good luck.
>>>> Gordie '62 MGA
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------****--------------------
>>>
>>>> From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 5:59 PM
>>>> To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>>>> Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
>>>>
>>>> On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the
>>>>> float
>>>>> chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes
>>> obvious:
>>>>> the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.
>>>>>
>>>>> So, my question is: how important is it to attempt to remove the shank
>>> of
>>>>> the screw and put in a new screw? If I mess up the removal, I might
>>> damage
>>>>> the float chamber, which then apparently means a new carburettor (Moss
>>>>> doesn't show the float chamber as a separate item). So I am wondering
>>>>> about
>>>>> re-assembling with only 2 screws.
>>>>>
>>>>> Simon
>>>>> ______________________________****_________________
>>>>>
>>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>>>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.****html<http://www.team.net/donate.**html>
>>> <http://www.team.net/**donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>>
>>>
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/****<http://autox.team.net/mailman/**>
>>>>> options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.****net<http://autox.team.net/**
>>>
mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@**comcast.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/opt
ions/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net>
>>>
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>>
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/don at napanet.net<http://autox.team
.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>>
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2629/5415 - Release Date: 11/23/12
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgmagnette at aol.com

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Fri Nov 23 21:52:25 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 23:52:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
In-Reply-To: <CCD59198.4127B%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CCD59198.4127B%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <B6B29E41-D417-4BFF-A644-3105279E027A@aol.com>

Doesn't the float prevent the gas level from getting up that high?  Maybe
not.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 23, 2012, at 11:48 PM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:

> I would think it might leak a little. I had a torn gasket once and it
always
> had a dribble mark down the side until I replaced it. But that is going to
> be a tough screw to extract, since the screw is five times harder than the
> carb body.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 11/23/12 2:59 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:
>
>> On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the
float
>> chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes obvious:
>> the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.
>>
>> So, my question is: how important is it to attempt to remove the shank of
>> the screw and put in a new screw? If I mess up the removal, I might damage
>> the float chamber, which then apparently means a new carburettor (Moss
>> doesn't show the float chamber as a separate item). So I am wondering
about
>> re-assembling with only 2 screws.
>>
>> Simon
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgmagnette at aol.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Nov 23 22:47:29 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 21:47:29 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
In-Reply-To: <B6B29E41-D417-4BFF-A644-3105279E027A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CCD59F71.41281%mvheim@sonic.net>

Supposed to. But it seems it splashes around on cornering, potholes, and the
like.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/23/12 8:52 PM, John Elwood at mgmagnette at aol.com wrote:

> Doesn't the float prevent the gas level from getting up that high?  Maybe not.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Nov 23, 2012, at 11:48 PM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
> 
>> I would think it might leak a little. I had a torn gasket once and it always
>> had a dribble mark down the side until I replaced it. But that is going to
>> be a tough screw to extract, since the screw is five times harder than the
>> carb body.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> on 11/23/12 2:59 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>>> On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the float
>>> chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes obvious:
>>> the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.
>>> 
>>> So, my question is: how important is it to attempt to remove the shank of
>>> the screw and put in a new screw? If I mess up the removal, I might damage
>>> the float chamber, which then apparently means a new carburettor (Moss
>>> doesn't show the float chamber as a separate item). So I am wondering about
>>> re-assembling with only 2 screws.
>>> 
>>> Simon

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Nov 24 03:21:33 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 10:21:33 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Importance of 3 screws in float chamber lid
References: <CAEUYfyMR=2hzPM39zXN19+kPwfdRUH0ikUeMeu_MjPsjynSxSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8820C28F8636440FBD35402331205BC7@paul>

HS carbs, I assume.  With only two screws you might get a bit of fuel 
seeping from the unsecured 'corner' going over bumps or round sharp corners, 
but fuel-resistant sealant either side of the gasket might resolve that. 
Don't over-tighten the remaining screws or you are likely to bow the lid and 
make things worse, which could alter the angle of the float.  If planning on 
trying to remove the screw remember that it is a steel screw in an alloy 
casting, and almost certainly sheared because it was seized in the threads. 
That makes drilling a tricky proposition unless you can clamp it in position 
under a pillar drill and use a very small drill to start with.

As far as your over-revving when hot remember that when 'cold' the engine 
will idle less fast than when 'hot' anyway, that is what the fast-idle is 
for when warming up.  Normally problems with idle revolve around it varying 
when the engine is hot.  Try pressing the butterflies closed by hand, and 
check that the fast idle screws are clear of the cam.  Compare the 'suck' 
from each when over-revving and normal idling.  If the carbs are the same as 
each other both times then it's probably the linkages holding the 
butterflies open, or a vacuum leak around the inlet manifold.  If one carb 
is sucking more (or less) between the two states then it's probably a carb 
problem.


PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> On starting to look at over-revving issues, I noticed that one of the 
> float
> chambers has 2 screws in the lid. On removal, the reason becomes obvious:
> the remains of a screw stuck in the threads.

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Nov 24 20:23:16 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 22:23:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA door rails
Message-ID: <912DF392A6394E45A8C7681D33364CF1@EricJRussellPC>

I am planning to make some new door capping rails for my MGA. But I have no
originals to copy. Is the inside at a right angle to the bottom or slanted?

i.e. in cross section are they like this?

                  _______
                 /            |
  outside   /              |   inside
              /_________|


or like this?
                ________
               /              /
              /              /
             /________/


Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Nov 24 21:22:58 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 22:22:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA door rails
In-Reply-To: <912DF392A6394E45A8C7681D33364CF1@EricJRussellPC>
References: <912DF392A6394E45A8C7681D33364CF1@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <201211250422.qAP4Mu12010617@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

The roadster door top trim rail, wood section, is (almost) 
perpendiculat to the bottom surface.  You should be able to take the 
shape from the back end of the die case alloy curved front corner rail.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com



At 10:23 PM 11/24/2012 -0500, Eric J Russell wrote:
>I am planning to make some new door capping rails for my MGA. But I have no
>originals to copy. Is the inside at a right angle to the bottom or slanted?
>
>i.e. in cross section are they like this?
>                  _______
>                  /            |
>   outside   /              |   inside
>               /_________|
>
>or like this?
>                 ________
>                /              /
>               /              /
>              /________/
>
>Eric Russell
>Mebane, NC

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Nov 26 14:01:09 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 16:01:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Grose Jets
Message-ID: <E1Td5nk-00085i-TT@zeta.look.ca>

Folks,

I have 4 Grose Jets SU301 for which I would like to find a nice home 
- Any offers?  I was unable to find a price for them - D & G Valve 
Inc do not have a web site - and Moss does not seem to have them ???

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov 27 09:37:12 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 10:37:12 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Grose Jets
In-Reply-To: <E1Td5nk-00085i-TT@zeta.look.ca>
References: <E1Td5nk-00085i-TT@zeta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <50B4EC38.6000902@ktc.com>

Funny thing about those theing: Some people swear by them and some 
people swear at them.  My experience with them puts me in the later 
group. :-(

CR
On 11/26/2012 3:01 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I have 4 Grose Jets SU301 for which I would like to find a nice home - 
> Any offers?  I was unable to find a price for them - D & G Valve Inc 
> do not have a web site - and Moss does not seem to have them ???
>
> Regards,
>
> Barrie Robinson
> barrie at look.ca
> 705-721-9060
> MGB GT V8  in great nick
> Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
> www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> www.britcot.com
> www.AMFClub.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Nov 27 10:47:08 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 09:47:08 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Grose Jets
In-Reply-To: <50B4EC38.6000902@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <CCDA3C9C.413D1%mvheim@sonic.net>

I thought I just saw Grose-jets for HS4 MGB on the Moss USA website.

I have been running them for years. The needle valves kept getting clogged
with debris, probably because the original braided fuel line was
deteriorating from the inside.

The Grose-Jets don't have that problem, at least. They did have a problem
with the original floats with the long brass hinges -- at a certain engine
speed the bouncing balls set up a resonant vibration. This was fixed by
substituting the all-plastic floats.

I know, replacing all the fuel lines would have been a more direct solution.
But the threaded fitting on the feed pipe had been hacked off by a PO, and I
was waiting to fix everything at once.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/27/12 8:37 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote:

> Funny thing about those theing: Some people swear by them and some
> people swear at them.  My experience with them puts me in the later
> group. :-(
> 
> CR
> On 11/26/2012 3:01 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>> Folks,
>> 
>> I have 4 Grose Jets SU301 for which I would like to find a nice home -
>> Any offers?  I was unable to find a price for them - D & G Valve Inc
>> do not have a web site - and Moss does not seem to have them ???
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Barrie Robinson
>> barrie at look.ca
>> 705-721-9060
>> MGB GT V8  in great nick
>> Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
>> www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
>> www.britcot.com
>> www.AMFClub.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov 27 16:13:29 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 17:13:29 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Grose Jets
In-Reply-To: <CCDA3C9C.413D1%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CCDA3C9C.413D1%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <50B54919.30501@ktc.com>

Max,

You could have replaced the braided hoses with plain fuel hose, added an 
in-line filter under the bonnet and been done with it. Easier than 
fiddling with getting the float levels set right with the Grose jets and 
you'd have stopped the flow of debris into your carbs too.  Might even 
have been a cheaper fix.

CR
On 11/27/2012 11:47 AM, Max Heim wrote:
> I thought I just saw Grose-jets for HS4 MGB on the Moss USA website.
>
> I have been running them for years. The needle valves kept getting clogged
> with debris, probably because the original braided fuel line was
> deteriorating from the inside.
>
> The Grose-Jets don't have that problem, at least. They did have a problem
> with the original floats with the long brass hinges -- at a certain engine
> speed the bouncing balls set up a resonant vibration. This was fixed by
> substituting the all-plastic floats.
>
> I know, replacing all the fuel lines would have been a more direct solution.
> But the threaded fitting on the feed pipe had been hacked off by a PO, and I
> was waiting to fix everything at once.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 11/27/12 8:37 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote:
>
>> Funny thing about those theing: Some people swear by them and some
>> people swear at them.  My experience with them puts me in the later
>> group. :-(
>>
>> CR
>> On 11/26/2012 3:01 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> I have 4 Grose Jets SU301 for which I would like to find a nice home -
>>> Any offers?  I was unable to find a price for them - D & G Valve Inc
>>> do not have a web site - and Moss does not seem to have them ???
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Barrie Robinson
>>> barrie at look.ca
>>> 705-721-9060
>>> MGB GT V8  in great nick
>>> Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
>>> www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
>>> www.britcot.com
>>> www.AMFClub.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Tue Nov 27 17:25:33 2012
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 19:25:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Grose Jets
In-Reply-To: <50B54919.30501@ktc.com>
References: <CCDA3C9C.413D1%mvheim@sonic.net> <50B54919.30501@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <977A3B01-4B90-45ED-A927-7CB1AE046EBD@ece.rochester.edu>

Was just going to say that.
On Nov 27, 2012, at 6:13 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

> Max,
>
> You could have replaced the braided hoses with plain fuel hose, added an
in-line filter under the bonnet and been done with it. Easier than fiddling
with getting the float levels set right with the Grose jets and you'd have
stopped the flow of debris into your carbs too.  Might even have been a
cheaper fix.
>
> CR
> On 11/27/2012 11:47 AM, Max Heim wrote:
>> I thought I just saw Grose-jets for HS4 MGB on the Moss USA website.
>>
>> I have been running them for years. The needle valves kept getting clogged
>> with debris, probably because the original braided fuel line was
>> deteriorating from the inside.
>>
>> The Grose-Jets don't have that problem, at least. They did have a problem
>> with the original floats with the long brass hinges -- at a certain engine
>> speed the bouncing balls set up a resonant vibration. This was fixed by
>> substituting the all-plastic floats.
>>
>> I know, replacing all the fuel lines would have been a more direct
solution.
>> But the threaded fitting on the feed pipe had been hacked off by a PO, and
I
>> was waiting to fix everything at once.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>
>>
>> on 11/27/12 8:37 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote:
>>
>>> Funny thing about those theing: Some people swear by them and some
>>> people swear at them.  My experience with them puts me in the later
>>> group. :-(
>>>
>>> CR
>>> On 11/26/2012 3:01 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>>>> Folks,
>>>>
>>>> I have 4 Grose Jets SU301 for which I would like to find a nice home -
>>>> Any offers?  I was unable to find a price for them - D & G Valve Inc
>>>> do not have a web site - and Moss does not seem to have them ???
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> Barrie Robinson
>>>> barrie at look.ca
>>>> 705-721-9060
>>>> MGB GT V8  in great nick
>>>> Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
>>>> www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
>>>> www.britcot.com
>>>> www.AMFClub.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Nov 27 17:48:12 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 16:48:12 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Grose Jets
In-Reply-To: <977A3B01-4B90-45ED-A927-7CB1AE046EBD@ece.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <CCDA9F4C.41415%mvheim@sonic.net>

I liked the braided hose. And had an inline filter.

In principle, I didn't like the idea of a valve that clogged so easily.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/27/12 4:25 PM, Paul Osborne at paul at ece.rochester.edu wrote:

> Was just going to say that.
> On Nov 27, 2012, at 6:13 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> 
>> Max,
>> 
>> You could have replaced the braided hoses with plain fuel hose, added an
>> in-line filter under the bonnet and been done with it. Easier than fiddling
>> with getting the float levels set right with the Grose jets and you'd have
>> stopped the flow of debris into your carbs too.  Might even have been a
>> cheaper fix.
>> 
>> CR
>> On 11/27/2012 11:47 AM, Max Heim wrote:
>>> I thought I just saw Grose-jets for HS4 MGB on the Moss USA website.
>>> 
>>> I have been running them for years. The needle valves kept getting clogged
>>> with debris, probably because the original braided fuel line was
>>> deteriorating from the inside.
>>> 
>>> The Grose-Jets don't have that problem, at least. They did have a problem
>>> with the original floats with the long brass hinges -- at a certain engine
>>> speed the bouncing balls set up a resonant vibration. This was fixed by
>>> substituting the all-plastic floats.
>>> 
>>> I know, replacing all the fuel lines would have been a more direct solution.
>>> But the threaded fitting on the feed pipe had been hacked off by a PO, and I
>>> was waiting to fix everything at once.
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
>>> Max Heim
>>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>> 
>>> 
>>> on 11/27/12 8:37 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Funny thing about those theing: Some people swear by them and some
>>>> people swear at them.  My experience with them puts me in the later
>>>> group. :-(
>>>> 
>>>> CR
>>>> On 11/26/2012 3:01 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>>>>> Folks,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I have 4 Grose Jets SU301 for which I would like to find a nice home -
>>>>> Any offers?  I was unable to find a price for them - D & G Valve Inc
>>>>> do not have a web site - and Moss does not seem to have them ???
>>>>> 
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Barrie Robinson
>>>>> barrie at look.ca
>>>>> 705-721-9060
>>>>> MGB GT V8  in great nick
>>>>> Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
>>>>> www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
>>>>> www.britcot.com
>>>>> www.AMFClub.com
>>> _______________________________________________

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Tue Nov 27 18:07:53 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 19:07:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Grose Jets
In-Reply-To: <50B4EC38.6000902@ktc.com>
References: <E1Td5nk-00085i-TT@zeta.look.ca> <50B4EC38.6000902@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <005001cdcd04$cb7d6b50$627841f0$@net>

I am a part of the latter group as well Charley.

Chad Cooper
'72 B Roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Charley & Peggy Robinson
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 10:37 AM
To: Barrie Robinson
Cc: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Grose Jets

Funny thing about those theing: Some people swear by them and some people
swear at them.  My experience with them puts me in the later group. :-(

CR
On 11/26/2012 3:01 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I have 4 Grose Jets SU301 for which I would like to find a nice home - 
> Any offers?  I was unable to find a price for them - D & G Valve Inc 
> do not have a web site - and Moss does not seem to have them ???
>
> Regards,
>
> Barrie Robinson
> barrie at look.ca
> 705-721-9060
> MGB GT V8  in great nick
> Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration 
> www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> www.britcot.com
> www.AMFClub.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net

From lfritz82 at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 28 20:08:52 2012
From: lfritz82 at hotmail.com (Windows Live Team)
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 03:08:52 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Mgb engine
Message-ID: <DUB117-W87803B37826A939BBEE487DA5C0@phx.gbl>

I would like to build a strong MGB street engine.  What are most people using
the early 18GB or the later 18V.  Thanks in advance.  Lorne Fritz

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 28 20:23:33 2012
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 19:23:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Mgb engine
In-Reply-To: <DUB117-W87803B37826A939BBEE487DA5C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1354159413.51333.YahooMailClassic@web113308.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

The best place to go (IMHO) is to get a copy of Peter Burgess's book "How to
Powertune MGB Engines"
Pricy here;
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=
peter+burgess+mgb
 Here at Ebay;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MGB-D-Y-I-RESTORATION-AND-HOW-TO-POWER-TUNE-MGB-4-CYL
-ENGINES-/160931141503?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item25783e577f&vxp=m
tr

--- On Wed, 11/28/12, Windows Live Team <lfritz82 at hotmail.com> wrote:

From: Windows Live Team <lfritz82 at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Mgb engine
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, November 28, 2012, 10:08 PM

I would like to build a strong MGB street engine.  What are most people using
the early 18GB or the later 18V.  Thanks in advance.  Lorne Fritz
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/leylandauto at yahoo.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Nov 28 21:58:26 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 22:58:26 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mgb engine
In-Reply-To: <DUB117-W87803B37826A939BBEE487DA5C0@phx.gbl>
References: <DUB117-W87803B37826A939BBEE487DA5C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <201211290458.qAT4wYE0004914@nlpi176.prodigy.net>

In case you didn't know, 18G and 18GA are 3-main bearing 
engines.  The 18GB is a 5-main engine same as the 18V engines (it 
just has a smaller flywheel).  Once into 5-main engines there is very 
little difference in the mechanical parts through end of production, 
but the devil is in the detals.

 From 18GB through end of production there was very little change in 
the lower engine, and only minor changes in the cylinder head.  I 
recon just about everyone will advise to avoid 1975 and later North 
American configuration with single carburetor and catalytic 
converter.  If you want 5 main bearings and dual carbs, and are not 
overly concerned about emissions, then look at 1965 through 1967 GB 
engine configuration.  After 1967 the flywheel was larger mating with 
the 4-synchro gearbox.  There were various additions of emissions 
control components starting 1968, which you can omit, although the 
evaporative emissions system (carbon cannister and related piping) 
and the anti-run-on valve are friendly and no harm to performance.

The 18V engines (all of them) used lighter weight tappets with longer 
pushrods, single valve springs, and single row timing chain.  The 
lighter tappets with longer pushrods are good, but if you slip in any 
kind of upgrade camshaft I recommend going with the earlier dual 
valve springs and dual row timing chain.  For some cam upgrades you 
need heavy duty dual valve springs (and higher compression) to take 
advantage of more power into higher engine speeds (beyond 6000 
rpm).  Read the specifications from the cam manufacturer.

For 1972-1974 (and later years for European market) the "L" cylinder 
head had one size larger valves, better porting, and smaller volume 
combustion chamber for higher compression (but not Notrh America 
after 1974).  From 1972 on there were eyebrows in the engine block to 
clear the exhaust valves on full lift.  For pre-1972 blocks you need 
to add the eyebrows to accomodate the "L" head, or any cam with 
increased valve lift.

If you would like to follow this recipie, you can start with 18GB 
engine and inatall 18V type tappets and pushrods.  Or you can start 
with 18V type engine and install dual valve springs and dual row 
timing chain.  End result is the same.  Chose any MGB cylinder head, 
1962-1967 if you want no air injection ports, or 1972-1974 for the 
"L" head (notes above).  After 1968 you get to plug or cover unused 
air or water ports.  Once you get this basic mechanical configuration 
down, you can think about performance upgrades as a separate subject.

The reason MGA guru knows something about all this stuff is because 
poeple put these engines in MGAs fairly often.  I have all of these 
features in my MGA, plus a Crane fast street cam, except I stopped at 
1625cc with 3-main bearing MGA block.  I also run the early MGB 
flywheel and stock MGB clutch parts. It is a hoot to fly, and not 
particularly expensive to buiild.  If you want to go much beyond 
100-bhp, then cost is almost exponential with power output, and 
reliability can decline accordingly.  Anything over 100-bhp requires 
some more high performance input.  120+ is race engine territory, 
probably not street friendly, and way beyond my area of expertice.

Barney Gayloed
1958 MGA with an attitude (and a house full of rally and autocross trophies)
http://MGAguru.com  (with thousands of pages of MG Tech information)


At 03:08 AM 11/29/2012 +0000, Windows Live Team wrote:
>I would like to build a strong MGB street engine.  What are most people using
>the early 18GB or the later 18V.  .... Lorne Fritz

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Nov 29 10:01:03 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 11:01:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mgb engine
In-Reply-To: <201211290458.qAT4wYE0004914@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
References: <DUB117-W87803B37826A939BBEE487DA5C0@phx.gbl>
	<201211290458.qAT4wYE0004914@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <50B794CF.7070109@ktc.com>

Good stuff, Barney;

Just a couple of observations for the OP's benefit.  The 3-main engines 
reportedly revved up better because of less friction in the mains.  
OTOH, the 3-main crank flexed quite a bit under load, hence the 5-main  
was substituted to stiffen the crank.

When I built my last 5-main engine, I compared the weight of the short 
valve lifter/long pushrod  combo to the long lifter/short pushrod combo; 
decided there wasn't all that much difference between them.   I used the 
long lifter/short pushrod combo on the theory that the short pushrods 
would be stiffer; a good thing since I was using dual double valve 
springs.  A thing that moved me to this decision was that I had come by 
a used 18V that didn't have a straight pushrod in it!

One could make a decent argument either way, I suppose.

CR