From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Mar  1 08:37:47 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 07:37:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Lenham Midget
Message-ID: <1330616267.99502.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Interesting.....

http://bringatrailer.com/2012/03/01/bat-exclusive-1970-lenham-mg-project/

Dan D
'65 B, '76 B
Central NJ USA

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Mar  1 11:58:39 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2012 10:58:39 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Lenham Midget
In-Reply-To: <1330616267.99502.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CB7506DF.384D3%mvheim@sonic.net>

Ha, I had already commmented on this critter.

Don't see one of those every day. Probably a good thing, too...


on 3/1/12 7:37 AM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> Interesting.....
> 
> http://bringatrailer.com/2012/03/01/bat-exclusive-1970-lenham-mg-project/
> 
> Dan D
> '65 B, '76 B
> Central NJ USA
> _______________________________________________

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar  4 03:47:27 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun,  4 Mar 2012 03:47:27 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net forums
Message-ID: <20120304104727.2AA382E09F@bradakis.com>

Okay, I think that the forums are back online.  Check out
http://www.team.net/forums and see if it behaves as you expect.

Remember that the forum login/password is completely independent
of your mailing list password.  If you want to post you have to be
a registered user.  Anyone can look, no problem.

Any problems, comments or whatever let me know.


mjb.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Mar  4 14:05:31 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 13:05:31 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net forums
In-Reply-To: <20120304104727.2AA382E09F@bradakis.com>
References: <20120304104727.2AA382E09F@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyO+OLa_1AXeTDWxk9swRfz+Dcof8MuHYZEFNCryCyv=PQ@mail.gmail.com>

I just see a blank page.

Simon

On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 2:47 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Okay, I think that the forums are back online.  Check out
> http://www.team.net/forums and see if it behaves as you expect.
>
> Remember that the forum login/password is completely independent
> of your mailing list password.  If you want to post you have to be
> a registered user.  Anyone can look, no problem.
>
> Any problems, comments or whatever let me know.
>
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar  4 14:51:47 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 14:51:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net forums
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyO+OLa_1AXeTDWxk9swRfz+Dcof8MuHYZEFNCryCyv=PQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20120304104727.2AA382E09F@bradakis.com>
	<CAEUYfyO+OLa_1AXeTDWxk9swRfz+Dcof8MuHYZEFNCryCyv=PQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F53E3F3.1000502@bradakis.com>

Simon Matthews wrote:
> I just see a blank page.
>

I know.  It was working pretty well when I went to bed, now, not
so well.  Maybe I'll work on the archives for a while, more people
make use of that feature.

mjb.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Mar  4 15:49:38 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 14:49:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net forums
In-Reply-To: <4F53E3F3.1000502@bradakis.com>
References: <20120304104727.2AA382E09F@bradakis.com>
	<CAEUYfyO+OLa_1AXeTDWxk9swRfz+Dcof8MuHYZEFNCryCyv=PQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4F53E3F3.1000502@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1330901378.58522.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It worked for me earlier today, now I also just get the blank page.

Dan D
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Mark J Bradakis
<mark at bradakis.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, March 4, 2012 4:51
PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Team.Net forums
 
Simon Matthews wrote:
> I just see a
blank page.
>

I know.  It was working pretty well when I went to bed, now,
not
so well.  Maybe I'll work on the archives for a while, more people
make
use of that feature.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual
donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar  4 16:41:24 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 16:41:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net forums
In-Reply-To: <1330901378.58522.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <20120304104727.2AA382E09F@bradakis.com>
	<CAEUYfyO+OLa_1AXeTDWxk9swRfz+Dcof8MuHYZEFNCryCyv=PQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4F53E3F3.1000502@bradakis.com>
	<1330901378.58522.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4F53FDA4.4010103@bradakis.com>

Dan DiBiase wrote:
> It worked for me earlier today, now I also just get the blank page.
>
>

Hopefully I can quickly figure what happened to make it
stop working and get it fixed.

Boy, I should be charging you folks double overtime for having
to work in my dark little basement office on such a lovely
spring day!


mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar  4 17:18:23 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 17:18:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net forums
In-Reply-To: <C2540F89-CDBA-4ABA-B2E9-C11A4AD02720@internode.on.net>
References: <20120304104727.2AA382E09F@bradakis.com>
	<CAEUYfyO+OLa_1AXeTDWxk9swRfz+Dcof8MuHYZEFNCryCyv=PQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4F53E3F3.1000502@bradakis.com>
	<1330901378.58522.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4F53FDA4.4010103@bradakis.com>
	<C2540F89-CDBA-4ABA-B2E9-C11A4AD02720@internode.on.net>
Message-ID: <4F54064F.4090507@bradakis.com>

Eric wrote:
> We could all chip in and buy you some "grow lamps"! 

I am planning on doing some indoor container gardening this year.  I love
to cook and would appreciate having fresh rosemary, basil and such year
round.  But that doesn't have much to do with MGs or Team.Net!

mjb.

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar  4 18:04:41 2012
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 17:04:41 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] In Need of Some Parts
Message-ID: <015e01ccfa6b$f2e99220$d8bcb660$@net>

Anybody out there got the following they'd be willing to part with.  Car is
a 1971 MGB roadster with original engine, and all smog equipment intact:

.         air pump filter canister - mine seems to be missing the tapered
tube that extends out the canister itself.  Or did this model not come with
that tube?

.         vapor separator bracket - this is part of the evap emission
control, got the separator just need the bracket.  Seem to recall the
separator attaches to the bracket which attaches to the passenger side light
nuts inside the trunk.  Anyone have a pic?

 

Thanks

Ron King 

'71 MGB

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar  4 18:04:56 2012
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 17:04:56 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Removal of smog equipment and ply bushings
Message-ID: <016301ccfa6b$fbcc0bc0$f3642340$@net>

In the process of getting the '71 MGB roadster back on the road, and wanted
to get folks' thoughts on some topics:

.         remove/not remove the smog equipment - will leave the Evap
canister and tubing, and the crankcase vent tubing, but contemplating
removal of the pump, hosing, air rail, gulp valve, and associated rubber
hosing.  

.         prothane polyurethane (red), or polyurethane (black), or rubber
bushings (V8 for front) for the suspensions.  Past discussions lean towards
rubber, but am willing to sacrifice some ride quality for improved wear and
durability of the poly

.         single 12 volt - assume just need to:

1.       connect ground cable to body

2.       run hot cable directly to solenoid?  Looks like 4-5' run?  Anybody
know exact, or have a part number?

 

Am sure there'll be more questions as I continue this adventure.

 

Thanks

Ron King

'71 MGB

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar  4 18:51:37 2012
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 17:51:37 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] . . . and one more thing
Message-ID: <016b01ccfa72$81314f90$8393eeb0$@net>

Re. the evaporative canister:  Assume I can use any type of charcoal (like
fish aquarium stuff for example) inside the canister?   Also, there's some
filter material inside I need to replace.     Anyone out there have a
suggestion?    Suspect the auto parts place should have something suitable.

 

Thanks again.

Ron King

'71 MGB

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Sun Mar  4 19:59:42 2012
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 21:59:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removal of smog equipment and ply bushings
In-Reply-To: <016301ccfa6b$fbcc0bc0$f3642340$@net>
References: <016301ccfa6b$fbcc0bc0$f3642340$@net>
Message-ID: <303FE1F2-B804-4158-9FD1-FB7CF8A00348@trebelhorn.com>

On the bushings question, I would avoid the V8 bushings if you plan  
on keeping the car.  Rubber or poly bushings don't rust to the spindles.

Once I learned that lesson I've been very happy with (red) poly  
bushings everywhere.

Matt


On 4 Mar, 2012, at 8:04 PM, Ron King wrote:

> In the process of getting the '71 MGB roadster back on the road,  
> and wanted
> to get folks' thoughts on some topics:


> .         prothane polyurethane (red), or polyurethane (black), or  
> rubber
> bushings (V8 for front) for the suspensions.  Past discussions lean  
> towards
> rubber, but am willing to sacrifice some ride quality for improved  
> wear and
> durability of the poly

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Mar  4 20:51:54 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 21:51:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] . . . and one more thing
In-Reply-To: <016b01ccfa72$81314f90$8393eeb0$@net>
References: <016b01ccfa72$81314f90$8393eeb0$@net>
Message-ID: <35095F19-87CA-4356-AB22-FFD02AAB251F@gmail.com>

Yes, I used aquarium charcoal. 

Use a 3M green scrubby pad. 

On Mar 4, 2012, at 7:51 PM, Ron King wrote:

> Re. the evaporative canister:  Assume I can use any type of charcoal (like
> fish aquarium stuff for example) inside the canister?   Also, there's some
> filter material inside I need to replace.     Anyone out there have a
> suggestion?    Suspect the auto parts place should have something suitable.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Ron King
> 
> '71 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Mar  5 07:47:51 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 14:47:51 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Removal of smog equipment and ply bushings
Message-ID: <20120305.094751.24637.3@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Ron,   Most remove pump, hosing, air rail, gulp valve, etc.   If you want
to retain them for original appearance, open the pump, remove the vanes and
reassemble. The free-spinning pump then has almost no drag and, without the
vanes, is unlikely to seize. There are several late MGBs in our CT MG Club
that have been modified this way.  Some have put a ball bearing into the head,
underneath the air-rail fitting, to keep exhaust pressure from pushing back
into the rail. Others argue that that is likely to harm the head. I would say
that, if you do it, to avoid tightening the fitting much.  In my MGBs I have
used original-type rubber, V8 and prothane bushings. In the current one I have
used V8 and prothane, the V8 at one time because Moss suggests that the
prothane will increase noise.  Maybe so, but I now have the prothane in my GT
I sure cannot detect any additional noise (GTs amplify noise greatly).
Prothane is the way to go. Do it now, because when you go to replace the V8
bushings you will probably find that it's a fight to get them off. More often
than not, despite the anti seize used, they stick. The red bushings give a
nice, tighter feel to the suspension, look good, and they are forever.   Moss
has the cable I think you are asking about, #332-085. I do not know its
length.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Ron King" <ronking at sbcglobal.net>
To: <Mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Removal of smog equipment and ply bushings
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 17:04:56 -0800

In the process of getting the '71 MGB roadster back on the road, and wanted
to get folks' thoughts on some topics:

.         remove/not remove the smog equipment - will leave the Evap
canister and tubing, and the crankcase vent tubing, but contemplating
removal of the pump, hosing, air rail, gulp valve, and associated rubber
hosing.

.         prothane polyurethane (red), or polyurethane (black), or rubber
bushings (V8 for front) for the suspensions.  Past discussions lean towards
rubber, but am willing to sacrifice some ride quality for improved wear and
durability of the poly

.         single 12 volt - assume just need to:

1.       connect ground cable to body

2.       run hot cable directly to solenoid?  Looks like 4-5' run?  Anybody
know exact, or have a part number?



Am sure there'll be more questions as I continue this adventure.



Thanks

Ron King

'71 MGB
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From lrc at red4est.com  Tue Mar  6 21:48:09 2012
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2012 20:48:09 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Austin/MG 100 sighting
Message-ID: <4F56E889.3040800@red4est.com>

http://www.retronaut.co/2012/03/telecommunications-services-for-the-1990s-1969/

at O:16, parked on the road by the phone booths.  Interestingly on the 
right side of the road, appropriate for US not English roads.

-- 
Larry Colen LRC at red4est.com (from dos4est)

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Wed Mar  7 08:28:00 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 10:28:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Austin/MG 100 sighting
In-Reply-To: <4F56E889.3040800@red4est.com>
References: <4F56E889.3040800@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W45839FC278F2D9C8C962BAB7560@phx.gbl>

Interesting video.  I guess Skype was inconceivable in 1969.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT> Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 20:48:09 -0800
> From: lrc at red4est.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Austin/MG 100 sighting
>
>
http://www.retronaut.co/2012/03/telecommunications-services-for-the-1990s-196
9/
>
> at O:16, parked on the road by the phone booths.  Interestingly on the
> right side of the road, appropriate for US not English roads.
>
> --
> Larry Colen LRC at red4est.com (from dos4est)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From montejane at gmail.com  Wed Mar  7 20:15:37 2012
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 21:15:37 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>

 Hi everyone.
Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
operation. Any ideas?
desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
thousand miles ago.

Thanks,
Monte

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Mar  7 20:44:22 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 21:44:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F5A55CFC-6857-4C65-89D4-1114C8566A6C@gmail.com>

The tach dropping I think tells you that it's electrical and not fuel. 

Capacitor? spark plug/coil cables? rotor, cap. the usual suspects. 

Paul.


On Mar 7, 2012, at 9:15 PM, Monte/Jane Morris wrote:

> Hi everyone.
> Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
> second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
> for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
> immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
> operation. Any ideas?
> desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
> thousand miles ago.
> 
> Thanks,
> Monte
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Wed Mar  7 21:26:40 2012
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2012 22:26:40 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <F5A55CFC-6857-4C65-89D4-1114C8566A6C@gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
	<F5A55CFC-6857-4C65-89D4-1114C8566A6C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F583500.40108@sbcglobal.net>

Since the tach is dropping like that it sounds like it would be in the 
ignition primary circuit.  My first suspect would be the ignition switch.
Charles Hill

On 3/7/2012 9:44 PM, Paul Root wrote:
> The tach dropping I think tells you that it's electrical and not fuel.
>
> Capacitor? spark plug/coil cables? rotor, cap. the usual suspects.
>
> Paul.
>
>
> On Mar 7, 2012, at 9:15 PM, Monte/Jane Morris wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone.
>> Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
>> second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
>> for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
>> immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
>> operation. Any ideas?
>> desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
>> thousand miles ago.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Monte
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/chillmog at sbcglobal.net

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Mar  8 02:20:21 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 09:20:21 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
References: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B14FA13D81DD4F5EA5FF195E9D5B135F@paul>

As others have said because the tach drops sharply then presumably picks up 
again with the engine it is LT electrical.  A capacitor would have to go 
short-circuit to cause this, and they rarely repair themselves, so I think 
that is unlikely to be the cause.  Likewise if the ignition switch goes 
open-circuit momentarily that would also cause the ignition warning light to 
glow brightly (as long as the momentum of the car is still spinning the 
engine).  If that's not happening (and the light normally works as the 
factory intended) then ordinarily other than loose connections somewhere in 
the white ignition switch to coil or black-white coil to points to earth 
circuits older coils with riveted spades are a well-known cause of 
intermittently cutting out.  Later coils had threaded studs and nuts. 
Replacement coil noted, and it could be premature failure of that.  However 
with a 79, and presumably American spec with electronic ignition, it could 
also be the ballast wire, trigger under the cap for a 45DM4 distributor, or 
additional components in and around the distributor for the earlier 
trouble-prone 45DE4 distributor.  Of course if you have some other kind of 
ignition then it could be that.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
> second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
> for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
> immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
> operation. Any ideas?

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Mar  8 05:40:01 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 04:40:01 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <560BFC47-CA17-4D2D-9E26-426EA9BB5DD2@gmail.com>

Tach drops out = ignition related.
Look at all the connections to make sure they are tight. Wiggle the wires with
the car running to see if you can duplicate.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 7, 2012, at 19:15, "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone.
> Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
> second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
> for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
> immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
> operation. Any ideas?
> desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
> thousand miles ago.
>
> Thanks,
> Monte
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu Mar  8 10:18:02 2012
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 11:18:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <560BFC47-CA17-4D2D-9E26-426EA9BB5DD2@gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
	<560BFC47-CA17-4D2D-9E26-426EA9BB5DD2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHoRef=2PxmKDYx4vcJZe7F9y3AWw+DhE7_7X8dVNoCQhg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the info. I'll check all connections and the rotor. Can you tell
visually if the rotor is bad?
Monte

On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:40 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>wrote:

> Tach drops out = ignition related.
> Look at all the connections to make sure they are tight. Wiggle the wires
> with the car running to see if you can duplicate.
> Rick
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 7, 2012, at 19:15, "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone.
> > Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
> > second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
> > for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
> > immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
> > operation. Any ideas?
> > desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
> > thousand miles ago.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Monte
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Mar  8 11:03:50 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 10:03:50 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHoRef=2PxmKDYx4vcJZe7F9y3AWw+DhE7_7X8dVNoCQhg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com>
	<560BFC47-CA17-4D2D-9E26-426EA9BB5DD2@gmail.com>
	<CAHEsxHoRef=2PxmKDYx4vcJZe7F9y3AWw+DhE7_7X8dVNoCQhg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TqbQo2Xvwo0SqKTLg9g8-Q65813MSgrN=46gcOhHT7_rw@mail.gmail.com>

Probably NOT the rotor, cap, wires or plugs.  The tach signal comes from
the primary side of the ignition system.  So if you are losing the tach you
are losing the primary, not the secondary (HT) side of the ignition system.
Don't forget to check the primary lead and ground lead inside the
distributor for breakage, they flex constantly and can break inside the
insulation.
Rick

On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 9:18 AM, Monte/Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>wrote:

> Thanks for the info. I'll check all connections and the rotor. Can you
> tell visually if the rotor is bad?
> Monte
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:40 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Tach drops out = ignition related.
>> Look at all the connections to make sure they are tight. Wiggle the wires
>> with the car running to see if you can duplicate.
>> Rick
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 7, 2012, at 19:15, "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi everyone.
>> > Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
>> > second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
>> > for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
>> > immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
>> > operation. Any ideas?
>> > desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
>> > thousand miles ago.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Monte
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >
>> > Mgs at autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Mar  8 10:51:48 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2012 09:51:48 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHoRef=2PxmKDYx4vcJZe7F9y3AWw+DhE7_7X8dVNoCQhg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CB7E31B4.3879A%mvheim@sonic.net>

on 3/8/12 9:18 AM, Monte/Jane Morris at montejane at gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the info. I'll check all connections and the rotor. Can you tell
> visually if the rotor is bad?

Not really.

I will say, from experience, that my B wants a new rotor and cap every
spring, regardless of number of miles or apparent condition.





> Monte
> 
> On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:40 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>wrote:
> 
>> Tach drops out = ignition related.
>> Look at all the connections to make sure they are tight. Wiggle the wires
>> with the car running to see if you can duplicate.
>> Rick
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Mar 7, 2012, at 19:15, "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi everyone.
>>> Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
>>> second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
>>> for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
>>> immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
>>> operation. Any ideas?
>>> desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
>>> thousand miles ago.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Monte

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Thu Mar  8 12:23:38 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 14:23:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWOWZXeCvXL3cDcdGpxGg61+kY_zFJLuyJhja7ysLyYeYA@mail.gmail.com>

When I had a similar problem on my '80 B it turned out to be a loose
rivet on the
fuse block.  You can check this by wiggling all of the push connectors.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB


>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 21:15:37 -0600
> From: "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
> Message-ID:
>        <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>  Hi everyone.
> Every once in a while, at highway speeds, our 79B cuts out just for a
> second or two and then runs fine thereafter. It always runs great except
> for this "glitch" every once in a while. When it happens the tach
> immediately drops off sharply and then almost instantly resumes normal
> operation. Any ideas?
> desmogged 79B with points dizzy and dual HIF's. Coil replaced several
> thousand miles ago.
>
> Thanks,
> Monte

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Mar  9 00:35:58 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri,  9 Mar 2012 00:35:58 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Mgs] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust
Message-ID: <20120309073558.83EBC2E09A@bradakis.com>

Team.Net has been around a while.  People join, people leave,
an ebb and flow of enthusiasts over the years.  Some leave a
mark that will not be soon forgotten.

Steve Laifman passed away, a stalwart on the Tigers list.  We
had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, Frank on Spridgets.  Uncle Jack
was a stalwart on the vintage racing scene with his immaculately
prepared Triumphs.  As I've mentioned before one of my least
favorite tasks is removing someone from the lists as they depart.

I want to add them back.  I want to keep them alive in our hearts,
in our minds, in our web browsers.  We, as a community of kindred
spirits need to show our respect, admiration and appreciation.

Team.Net is currently in a bit of disarray as I work on updating,
upgrading and unfortunetly upending various services.  In the midst of
this cloud of digital dust a new project comes to mind - a memorial
page.  A place to gather stories, pictures, quips and quotes about
those who have touched us all.

Stay tuned, there will be requests for stuff to fill these soon to be
created web pages.


mjb.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Mar  9 01:47:32 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 08:47:32 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
References: <CAHEsxHqqp4KAMxRvu1xzQS0cWANWi1BPsRtTVOMKMJugUR7YDg@mail.gmail.com><560BFC47-CA17-4D2D-9E26-426EA9BB5DD2@gmail.com>
	<CAHEsxHoRef=2PxmKDYx4vcJZe7F9y3AWw+DhE7_7X8dVNoCQhg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9EE1CD3E1E92423DB264E119FF2E54CB@paul>

The rotor won't affect the tach.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Thanks for the info. I'll check all connections and the rotor. Can you 
> tell
> visually if the rotor is bad?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Mar  9 01:50:15 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 08:50:15 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
References: <CB7E31B4.3879A%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <0736BA9685AC41B9852DC4FED73EDEC3@paul>

Something wrong there then.  I've only changed the cap and rotor on the 
roadster once in 22 years and 50k miles and that was for the hell of it, and 
once on the V8 in 15 years and 90k miles.  The rotor on that *did* go bad, 
but I cracked the cap.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I will say, from experience, that my B wants a new rotor and cap every
> spring, regardless of number of miles or apparent condition.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Mar  9 01:52:15 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 08:52:15 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
References: <CAC8_WWOWZXeCvXL3cDcdGpxGg61+kY_zFJLuyJhja7ysLyYeYA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B30A4EBF19E3452CB23CCB3126CAC02C@paul>

The ignition supply doesn't go *through* the fuse block, just tees off it, 
and it should be the spade with two whites so should continue to run with 
that pulled off the fuse block.

----- Original Message ----- 
> When I had a similar problem on my '80 B it turned out to be a loose
> rivet on the
> fuse block.  You can check this by wiggling all of the push connectors.

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Fri Mar  9 08:03:36 2012
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 10:03:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust
In-Reply-To: <20120309073558.83EBC2E09A@bradakis.com>
References: <20120309073558.83EBC2E09A@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <58F6A5C6-657C-4BB5-AEFE-EA2279365DB3@tampabay.rr.com>

Great idea, Mark.....


On Mar 9, 2012, at 2:35 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Team.Net has been around a while.  People join, people leave,
> an ebb and flow of enthusiasts over the years.  Some leave a
> mark that will not be soon forgotten.
>
> Steve Laifman passed away, a stalwart on the Tigers list.  We
> had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, Frank on Spridgets.  Uncle Jack
> was a stalwart on the vintage racing scene with his immaculately
> prepared Triumphs.  As I've mentioned before one of my least
> favorite tasks is removing someone from the lists as they depart.
>
> I want to add them back.  I want to keep them alive in our hearts,
> in our minds, in our web browsers.  We, as a community of kindred
> spirits need to show our respect, admiration and appreciation.
>
> Team.Net is currently in a bit of disarray as I work on updating,
> upgrading and unfortunetly upending various services.  In the midst of
> this cloud of digital dust a new project comes to mind - a memorial
> page.  A place to gather stories, pictures, quips and quotes about
> those who have touched us all.
>
> Stay tuned, there will be requests for stuff to fill these soon to be
> created web pages.
>
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Mar  9 09:48:27 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2012 08:48:27 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <0736BA9685AC41B9852DC4FED73EDEC3@paul>
Message-ID: <CB7F745B.3880B%mvheim@sonic.net>

1. the quality of these parts may have been much better 22 years ago.

2. is your car stored outside? Mine has never been garaged.



on 3/9/12 12:50 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> Something wrong there then.  I've only changed the cap and rotor on the
> roadster once in 22 years and 50k miles and that was for the hell of it, and
> once on the V8 in 15 years and 90k miles.  The rotor on that *did* go bad,
> but I cracked the cap.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I will say, from experience, that my B wants a new rotor and cap every
>> spring, regardless of number of miles or apparent condition.
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Mar  9 10:38:21 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 17:38:21 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
References: <CB7F745B.3880B%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1AE7019DAA4F4C22B292FBD27829DC70@paul>

The V8 has been kept outside for about 10 of the 15 years, currently outside 
pending freeing-up of garage space after house move (to a house with an 
octagonal paved area ...).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <mvheim at sonic.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] periodic miss


> 1. the quality of these parts may have been much better 22 years ago.
>
> 2. is your car stored outside? Mine has never been garaged.
>
>
>
> on 3/9/12 12:50 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
>
>> Something wrong there then.  I've only changed the cap and rotor on the
>> roadster once in 22 years and 50k miles and that was for the hell of it, 
>> and
>> once on the V8 in 15 years and 90k miles.  The rotor on that *did* go 
>> bad,
>> but I cracked the cap.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> I will say, from experience, that my B wants a new rotor and cap every
>>> spring, regardless of number of miles or apparent condition.
>>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk 

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Mar  9 10:46:43 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2012 09:46:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <1AE7019DAA4F4C22B292FBD27829DC70@paul>
Message-ID: <CB7F8203.38817%mvheim@sonic.net>

Just an hypothesis. The V8 has a completely different distributor, of
course.

on 3/9/12 9:38 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> The V8 has been kept outside for about 10 of the 15 years, currently outside
> pending freeing-up of garage space after house move (to a house with an
> octagonal paved area ...).
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Max Heim" <mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 4:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] periodic miss
> 
> 
>> 1. the quality of these parts may have been much better 22 years ago.
>> 
>> 2. is your car stored outside? Mine has never been garaged.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> on 3/9/12 12:50 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
>> 
>>> Something wrong there then.  I've only changed the cap and rotor on the
>>> roadster once in 22 years and 50k miles and that was for the hell of it,
>>> and
>>> once on the V8 in 15 years and 90k miles.  The rotor on that *did* go
>>> bad,
>>> but I cracked the cap.
>>> 
>>> PaulH.
>>> 
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> I will say, from experience, that my B wants a new rotor and cap every
>>>> spring, regardless of number of miles or apparent condition.
>>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From awhitema at panix.com  Fri Mar  9 12:44:55 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 14:44:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <CB7F745B.3880B%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CB7F745B.3880B%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1203091435520.15590@panix1.panix.com>

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, Max Heim wrote:

> 1. the quality of these parts may have been much better 22 years ago.
>
> 2. is your car stored outside? Mine has never been garaged.

FWIW, my car sits each winter as well.  I last replaced the cap in
2003 (I think), when it had developed a carbon trace from the #1 lead
to the securing clip.  Couldn't figure out why the car was running so
badly until it got dark and we could see sparks on the cap.

Since then, I've replaced points, plugs, wires, switched to electronic
ignition, replaced the engine... but kept the cap.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman
Pullman, Washington

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Mar  9 17:25:43 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2012 16:25:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1203091435520.15590@panix1.panix.com>
Message-ID: <CB7FDF87.38836%mvheim@sonic.net>

Sorry, I didn't mean "stored". It sits outside. But it gets driven year
round.

on 3/9/12 11:44 AM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote:

> On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, Max Heim wrote:
> 
>> 1. the quality of these parts may have been much better 22 years ago.
>> 
>> 2. is your car stored outside? Mine has never been garaged.
> 
> FWIW, my car sits each winter as well.  I last replaced the cap in
> 2003 (I think), when it had developed a carbon trace from the #1 lead
> to the securing clip.  Couldn't figure out why the car was running so
> badly until it got dark and we could see sparks on the cap.
> 
> Since then, I've replaced points, plugs, wires, switched to electronic
> ignition, replaced the engine... but kept the cap.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From thgun at comporium.net  Fri Mar  9 19:08:55 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 21:08:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery
Message-ID: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>

I need a battery for my 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Who has the right battery at a good
price?
Tom

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  9 22:45:27 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 21:45:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery
In-Reply-To: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>
References: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <1331358327.99300.YahooMailNeo@web112111.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: Tom Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net>


> I need a battery for my 1957
MGA 1500 rst. Who has the right battery at a good
> price?

*A* battery, or a
set of batteries?

From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Mar  9 22:58:02 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 23:58:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery
In-Reply-To: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>
References: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <68310623C77347EC86196F9C9EB68AAE@rileyPC>

I recently got a group 26 reverse post battery from NAPA  to install in MGA.
Cost about $65.00. Dimensions  8" L x 6 3/8" W x 7 3/4 H (to top of post).
You will have to modify your box to accommodate the length but otherwise a
nice fit. I did the box modification when I installed a new battery box.
Ron Sanborn

-----Original Message----- 
From: Tom Gunderson
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 8:08 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery

I need a battery for my 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Who has the right battery at a 
good
price?
Tom
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4860 - Release Date: 03/09/12 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Mar 10 04:01:01 2012
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 03:01:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery
In-Reply-To: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <1331377261.34632.YahooMailClassic@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Well forget about the 2 6-volts.  PITA and expensive.  Only for the die
hards.   If you want to use the original battery area, then you may have to
modify one of the brackets by knocking
it flat.   Some one out there may have found a size that fits without
modifying, stay tuned for that.   Another idea is to put the thing in your
trunk.  Yea, I know I probably just lost a ton of readers but once you try it
,  you'll realize how easy it is to maintain and install and remove the
battery for winter storage etc.   My car was already converted when I bought
it in 93 and It has worked out great even for many state to state trips for
Namgar GTs.   It is installed in the rt rear corner in one of the plastic
battery boxes.  Anything in the trunk is protected by the box and I can even
get a Green Knob cut off switch in place for quick disconnect for inside
winter storage.    J hooks  are easily installed to brackets that are already
in the trunk, to secure the battery and box.  Plus you can use a pretty good
size battery if you feel the need.    The ground cable just attaches to the
trunk floor and the  positive goes  under
 the body where the original runs.  I have a converted neg. ground car.
For traveling,  a luggage rack always comes in handy to help with the extra
luggage and you can still pack items around the plastic battery box and in the
corner knooks and crannies.
 
If anyone would care to see an epic, drop me a line. 
 
Mark

--- On Fri, 3/9/12, Tom Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net> wrote:


From: Tom Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 9, 2012, 9:08 PM


I need a battery for my 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Who has the right battery at a
good
price?
Tom
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Mar 11 04:02:16 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 10:02:16 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
References: <CB7F8203.38817%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <FE8E64CA996C4BB592760E1170A6E640@paul>

It's not under the distributor and hence isn't a heater valve leak warning 
system, but it's identical technology-wise so I don't see what the 
difference would be.  There are definitely bad rotors out there giving short 
lives and early failure, the ones with a domed rivet inside the circle of 
the base (http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ignitiontext.htm#rotor). Maybe you 
should be using a different supplier for both.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Just an hypothesis. The V8 has a completely different distributor, of
> course.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar 11 15:23:52 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 15:23:52 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Progress, of sorts
Message-ID: <20120311212352.577342E067@bradakis.com>

Team.Net is working a tad bit better this weekend.  At least now
when you use the archive or forum links below you don't get a blank
stare.  The archives are more important, I'll work on them some
more tonight.  Right now it is a pleasant spring afternoon and my
little truck is in serious need of attention, back outside for a while.

mjb.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Mar 13 02:59:27 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 08:59:27 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
References: <CB7F8203.38817%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<FE8E64CA996C4BB592760E1170A6E640@paul>
	<74118D92C8244CC388D28EE57342E1A2@scloffice>
Message-ID: <4EEFFCEFEC204BBFA901DD43012B4C6D@paul>

It could be the ignition relay, but it would be more likely to be an 
open-circuit either at a spade or the contacts, and that would affect the 
cooling fans and all the fused ignition circuits as well.  A short to earth 
would result in damaged wiring.  Whilst the same faults could happen on the 
starter relay, that is less likely to cause the engine to cut out.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Back to the original thread, no one has mentioned the relay for the
> ignition. 

From mike at sportscarslimited.net  Mon Mar 12 10:58:48 2012
From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2012 09:58:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] periodic miss
In-Reply-To: <FE8E64CA996C4BB592760E1170A6E640@paul>
References: <CB7F8203.38817%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<FE8E64CA996C4BB592760E1170A6E640@paul>
Message-ID: <74118D92C8244CC388D28EE57342E1A2@scloffice>

Back to the original thread, no one has mentioned the relay for the
ignition. These can fail in the manner menitioned, especially if one of the
wires is making contact with some metal part, as it is located near the
bonnet, radiator shroud, etc. I have seen where the relay has shorted enough
to melt a portion of the plastic case of the relay, and allowed the various
components move around enough to cause an intermittant short, which kills
the ignition. The same can happen to the starter relay as well.

Mike


Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
10170 Croydon Way
Suite M
Sacramento, CA 95826
 
(916)366-0330
mike at sportscarslimited.net
 

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul Hunt
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2012 3:02 AM
To: Max Heim; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] periodic miss

It's not under the distributor and hence isn't a heater valve leak warning
system, but it's identical technology-wise so I don't see what the
difference would be.  There are definitely bad rotors out there giving short
lives and early failure, the ones with a domed rivet inside the circle of
the base (http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ignitiontext.htm#rotor). Maybe you
should be using a different supplier for both.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Just an hypothesis. The V8 has a completely different distributor, of 
> course.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike at sportscarslimited.net
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4866 - Release Date: 03/12/12
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4866 - Release Date: 03/12/12

From mike at sportscarslimited.net  Mon Mar 12 11:04:07 2012
From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2012 10:04:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery
In-Reply-To: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>
References: <7C7DF35E1E524D038C65D3B2FC51D4A2@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <3A81A4672483403A8ED33FFEAFE23458@scloffice>

If you do not fancy bashing your battery box, look for an Odessey AGM
battery. They are a little pricey, but are about the size of a cigar box and
can fit almost anywhere. They also make a nifty battery mounting apparatus
of aluminum and such that makes for a nice clean install, although a
reasonably handy person can design and make a similar setup for a fraction
of the cost.

If you go this route, read and pay attention to all the information on
installation and care of the battery. AGM (absorbed gas mat) batteries are
very persnickety on how they are maintained and particularly charged, or
re-charged.

Mike 


Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
10170 Croydon Way
Suite M
Sacramento, CA 95826
 
(916)366-0330
mike at sportscarslimited.net
 

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tom Gunderson
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 6:09 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery

I need a battery for my 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Who has the right battery at a
good price?
Tom
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike at sportscarslimited.net
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4866 - Release Date: 03/12/12
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4866 - Release Date: 03/12/12

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 13 11:44:18 2012
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 10:44:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] =?utf-8?q?British_car_keys=2C_letters_=E2=80=8B=3F_FNR_Poss?=
 =?utf-8?q?ibly_Ford/N=3F/Rootes=3F_MRN=2E=2E_Morris/Rootes/Numbered=3F?=
Message-ID: <1331660658.17662.YahooMailClassic@web111608.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I received a inquiry from Nick in
the UK and also exchanged
e-mail with Peter Weston.
Can anyone
provide information on the different key codes. The 1st car key
blank
that I know of was a Bilfix key, that was cut along the side of the
key
blank.

I will also post the question to the TR and Jaguar
list

Pete GrohB  (KeyGuy)

Sun, Mar 11, 2012 at 2:36
PM, Nick Walton 

Hi Pete thanks thats really good
info... however, I
get the impression they want to know exactly what eg FNR
stood for.
Possibly Ford/N?/Rootes? MRN... Morris/Rootes/Numbered?
Do you see
where I am coming from?

Many thanks for what you have, if I
can find out more I will put it into a
document and froward it to the
paper if thats ok with you?

Nick
Pete, Nick,

Funny old world, isn't it! B The
person who wrote to the local paper - Express
& Star - was, wait
for it, me!
I write a monthly column about locks for the magazine
Classic Car Monthly, and
in the last issue I speculated about the
possible derivation of the various
alphabetical-series of old WB
keys. B For instance, I joked that maybe 'FNR'
stood for Fred,
Norman and Ron, forgotten chaps in the drawing office.

I wrote
to the local paper hoping someone from the old Josiah Parkes company
might see it, but so far no answers have been forthcoming.

Thanks
for trying to help, however,

regards,
Peter W

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Mar 15 14:31:25 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 16:31:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Slash Panel
Message-ID: <E1S8HcW-0006r8-7Y@beta.look.ca>

I have a splash panel (Moss part number 458-390 or 458-395?) left 
over.  It is new but beautifully black powder coated and I would like 
$10 plus postage for it.  Anyone interested?

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Mar 15 21:18:01 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:18:01 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Is this thing on??
Message-ID: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>

Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest
mode should see some links below.  One is to the Team.Net email
archives.  If you have a minute click on the link.  Try a search.
Tell us what happens.  Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds
and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes.

mjb, who may have fixed one issue.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Mar 15 21:34:51 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 22:34:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
References: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <0DF88C0D-DDA6-46FD-B81B-CC1BB7CFF0D5@gmail.com>

I searched for Cosmic and it pulled up my emails from '07.


On Mar 15, 2012, at 10:18 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest
> mode should see some links below.  One is to the Team.Net email
> archives.  If you have a minute click on the link.  Try a search.
> Tell us what happens.  Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds
> and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes.
> 
> mjb, who may have fixed one issue.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Mar 15 22:07:00 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 23:07:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
References: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <201203160407.q2G476Un026462@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

Mark,

I tried "dimbulbs" and "small potatoes", and it pulled up proper 
references from 15-16 years ago, so it must be working.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 09:18 PM 3/15/2012 -0600, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest
>mode should see some links below.  One is to the Team.Net email
>archives.  If you have a minute click on the link.  Try a search.
>Tell us what happens.  ....

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Mar 15 22:08:48 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:08:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CB880AE0.38AB9%mvheim@sonic.net>

I searched for "driveshaft", got a page of hits almost instantly, going back
to 1998. Seems to be working.

on 3/15/12 8:18 PM, Mark J Bradakis at mark at bradakis.com wrote:

> Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest
> mode should see some links below.  One is to the Team.Net email
> archives.  If you have a minute click on the link.  Try a search.
> Tell us what happens.  Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds
> and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes.
> 
> mjb, who may have fixed one issue.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Mar 15 22:15:43 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 22:15:43 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <201203160407.q2G476Un026462@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
References: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
	<201203160407.q2G476Un026462@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <4F62BE6F.3060300@bradakis.com>

Barney Gaylord wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I tried "dimbulbs" and "small potatoes", and it pulled up proper 
> references from 15-16 years ago, so it must be working.
>

Nice.


The next problem is that there are recent years missing from the 
archives.  I'll be
working on that soon.  These decades of discourse are a valuable 
resource, they
have to stick around.

mjb.

From palte at gmx.net  Fri Mar 16 02:16:14 2012
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:16:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
References: <20120316031801.E576A2E079@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20120316081614.199280@gmx.net>

Mark,

As a search item I mentioned my ham radio call sign that I very occasionaly mentioned in my signature.

Two messages, from 1996 and 1998 showed, so it seems to work.

Greetings
Bert  

-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:18:01 -0600 (MDT)
> Von: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> An: mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Mgs] Is this thing on??

> Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest
> mode should see some links below.  One is to the Team.Net email
> archives.  If you have a minute click on the link.  Try a search.
> Tell us what happens.  Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds
> and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes.
> 
> mjb, who may have fixed one issue.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net

-- 
NEU: FreePhone 3-fach-Flat mit kostenlosem Smartphone!                                  
Jetzt informieren: http://mobile.1und1.de/?ac=OM.PW.PW003K20328T7073a

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Mar 18 22:40:55 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 23:40:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Battery
In-Reply-To: <1331377261.34632.YahooMailClassic@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1331377261.34632.YahooMailClassic@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4F66B8D7.9050904@justbrits.com>

Ed says:

<<  On 3/10/2012 5:01 AM, mark lapierre wrote:

Another idea is to put the thing in your
trunk.  Yea, I know I probably just lost a ton of readers...>>

" Of course you did, Mark.  MGAs (&  MGBs/Spridgets) don't have trunks ! !

Ed "

Cindy

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Mar 19 20:24:24 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 21:24:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the engine and
 gearbox out to investigate...
In-Reply-To: <4F67E836.1090209@justbrits.com>
References: <4F67E836.1090209@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4F67EA58.9050101@justbrits.com>

Thought ya'll like to see THIS one (hope the deleted pic's Link works 
<G>) ! ! !

-------- Original Message --------

Shawn posted in Austin-Healey Sports & Touring Club 
<http://www.facebook.com/n/?groups%2F205705656094%2F10150747134581095%2F&mid=5d18166G6061fd1fG2eeb331G96&bcode=0GZ4jVFi&n_m=shop%40justbrits.com>.
Took the engine and gearbox out to investigate... 
<http://www.facebook.com/n/?profile.php&id=1175580551&mid=5d18166G6061fd1fG2eeb331G96&bcode=0GZ4jVFi&n_m=shop%40justbrits.com> 
	
Shawn 
<http://www.facebook.com/n/?profile.php&id=1175580551&mid=5d18166G6061fd1fG2eeb331G96&bcode=0GZ4jVFi&n_m=shop%40justbrits.com> 
	2:07pm Mar 19

Took the engine and gearbox out to investigate the clutch issue in the 
Bugeye. The clutch release bearing blow up! P.O. probably never 
replaced it during the engine rebuild.
<http://www.facebook.com/n/?photo.php&fbid=3131163756122&set=o.205705656094&type=1&mid=5&n_m=shop%40justbrits.com> 

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Mar 19 20:58:13 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 21:58:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ref: [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the
 engine and gearbox out to investigate...
In-Reply-To: <4F67EA58.9050101@justbrits.com>
References: <4F67E836.1090209@justbrits.com> <4F67EA58.9050101@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4F67F245.3080507@justbrits.com>

Somethings ya just GOTTA do fer yerself <sigh> <G> !!

http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/TO_01.jpg

Me

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 20 09:11:01 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 11:11:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ref: [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the
 engine and gearbox out to investigate...
In-Reply-To: <4F67F245.3080507@justbrits.com>
References: <4F67E836.1090209@justbrits.com>
	<4F67EA58.9050101@justbrits.com>,<4F67F245.3080507@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W48CC6F9F5427B613FAB914B7430@phx.gbl>

I don't have any way to share the photo it with the group, but here's what I
found in my '73 Midget after I pulled the engine - a broken thrust bearing
with no bearing material left and a piece that had broken off the pressure
plate. The DPO, who had the car "fixed up" with duct tape, crimp connectors,
jump wires, epoxy, tub and tile calk, wood screws, eye hooks, and other
assorted home repair hardware, had been driving it like this.  I suspect that
the piece that had broken off pressure plate spring levers was acting as the
thrust bearing, and that's how he managed to drive it.  The sound when
stepping on the clutch, I recall from when I picked up the car, was like the
wailing of a thousand banshees.
This car, which was never meant to be anything more than a driver, has been a
nightmare of reversing several previous owners' botched repairs.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT

> Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 21:58:13 -0500
> From: shop at justbrits.com
> To: midgetsprite at yahoogroups.com
> CC: spridgets at autox.team.net; Mgs at autox.team.net;
Sprite-MidgetClub at yahoogroups.com; bugeye at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Mgs] Ref: [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the
engine and gearbox out to investigate...
>
> Somethings ya just GOTTA do fer yerself <sigh> <G> !!
>
> http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/TO_01.jpg
>
> Me

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Mar 20 22:01:08 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 22:01:08 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Ref: [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the
 engine and gearbox out to investigate...
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W48CC6F9F5427B613FAB914B7430@phx.gbl>
References: <4F67E836.1090209@justbrits.com>
	<4F67EA58.9050101@justbrits.com>,<4F67F245.3080507@justbrits.com>
	<SNT124-W48CC6F9F5427B613FAB914B7430@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4F695284.9040603@bradakis.com>

Mike Eldred wrote:
> I don't have any way to share the photo it with the group
I know, I know.  I'll work on getting the Team.Net forums working
as soon as I get the archives working properly.  We may have a 70+
degree, blue sky spring weekend coming up here in Salt Lake City,
so I may actually be out in the garage instead of hiding in the
basement at the keyboard.

mjb.

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 21 10:20:54 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 12:20:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ref: [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the
 engine and gearbox out to investigate...
In-Reply-To: <4F695284.9040603@bradakis.com>
References: <4F67E836.1090209@justbrits.com>, <4F67EA58.9050101@justbrits.com>,
	<4F67F245.3080507@justbrits.com>,
	<SNT124-W48CC6F9F5427B613FAB914B7430@phx.gbl>,
	<4F695284.9040603@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W3601F45DF56769D8FFEB42B7400@phx.gbl>

Mark,It wasn't intended as a jab, and I would certainly pick a wrench over a
keyboard, any day.Last weekend I changed the oil in my MG TF, installed a new
manifold gasket, and drove it in a local rally - top down and wearing short
sleeves.  I got a helluva sunburn.  Whooda thought we'd have our LBCs out in
mid-March?  Today it's supposed to be 77 degrees and tomorrow, 80! Three
cheers for global warming!
Listers may be able to see the photo of the failed Midget thrust bearing
here:https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1436474704346&set=a.109255162648
4.2016356.1007316156&type=3&theater

If not, try here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1092551626484.2016356.1007316156&ty
pe=3&l=d3820cc4d0  (you may have to cut and past it into the address bar of
your browser)

-Mike

> Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 22:01:08 -0600
> From: mark at bradakis.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ref: [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the
engine and gearbox out to investigate...
>
> Mike Eldred wrote:
> > I don't have any way to share the photo it with the group
> I know, I know.  I'll work on getting the Team.Net forums working
> as soon as I get the archives working properly.  We may have a 70+
> degree, blue sky spring weekend coming up here in Salt Lake City,
> so I may actually be out in the garage instead of hiding in the
> basement at the keyboard.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From davewillner at pa.net  Wed Mar 21 13:49:21 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:49:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
Message-ID: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f>

I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength aluminum
bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the filler neck (long
story...). Does anyone know of an industrial bonding product that is somewhat
easy to use that will make a strong, permanent bonding seal?  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Mar 21 15:40:52 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 14:40:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
In-Reply-To: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <CACOF-To-UvKsSYxmpGsn=A-FOT=+P07CzjpAOT0teKaDeZe_bA@mail.gmail.com>

JB weld leaps to mind, but I think you might have a huge problem trying to
use anything to bond a filler neck to a tank.  The filler neck will act as
a long lever, and any movement at the end of filler neck will quite likely
crack any bonding agent at the lower end.
Good luck
Rick

On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 12:49 PM, davewillner <davewillner at pa.net> wrote:

> I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength aluminum
> bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the filler neck
> (long
> story...). Does anyone know of an industrial bonding product that is
> somewhat
> easy to use that will make a strong, permanent bonding seal?  Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Mar 21 16:12:46 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:12:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
In-Reply-To: <CACOF-To-UvKsSYxmpGsn=A-FOT=+P07CzjpAOT0teKaDeZe_bA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CB8FA06E.38CFA%mvheim@sonic.net>

I was thinking the same thing. Did you consider a rubber grommet?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 3/21/12 2:40 PM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote:

> JB weld leaps to mind, but I think you might have a huge problem trying to
> use anything to bond a filler neck to a tank.  The filler neck will act as
> a long lever, and any movement at the end of filler neck will quite likely
> crack any bonding agent at the lower end.
> Good luck
> Rick
> 
> On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 12:49 PM, davewillner <davewillner at pa.net> wrote:
> 
>> I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength aluminum
>> bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the filler neck
>> (long
>> story...). Does anyone know of an industrial bonding product that is
>> somewhat
>> easy to use that will make a strong, permanent bonding seal?  Thanks
>> 
>> Dave Willner
>> Stroudsburg PA
>> 59 TR3A
>> 70 MGB
>> 70 BSA 441 VS

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Wed Mar 21 16:56:06 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 17:56:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
In-Reply-To: <CB8FA06E.38CFA%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CACOF-To-UvKsSYxmpGsn=A-FOT=+P07CzjpAOT0teKaDeZe_bA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CB8FA06E.38CFA%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <005101cd07b5$cccacc10$66606430$@net>

Or one of those pipe repair joints that is rubber and has hose clamps on
both ends.

Chad Cooper
'72 B Roadster
Allen, TX

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 5:13 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent

I was thinking the same thing. Did you consider a rubber grommet?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 3/21/12 2:40 PM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote:

> JB weld leaps to mind, but I think you might have a huge problem 
> trying to use anything to bond a filler neck to a tank.  The filler 
> neck will act as a long lever, and any movement at the end of filler 
> neck will quite likely crack any bonding agent at the lower end.
> Good luck
> Rick
> 
> On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 12:49 PM, davewillner <davewillner at pa.net> wrote:
> 
>> I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength 
>> aluminum bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the 
>> filler neck (long story...). Does anyone know of an industrial 
>> bonding product that is somewhat easy to use that will make a strong, 
>> permanent bonding seal?  Thanks
>> 
>> Dave Willner
>> Stroudsburg PA
>> 59 TR3A
>> 70 MGB
>> 70 BSA 441 VS
_______________________________________________

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Mar 21 17:16:22 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 17:16:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Ref: [.A.ustin-.H.ealey Sports & Touring Club] Took the
 engine and gearbox out to investigate...
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W3601F45DF56769D8FFEB42B7400@phx.gbl>
References: <4F67E836.1090209@justbrits.com>, <4F67EA58.9050101@justbrits.com>,
	<4F67F245.3080507@justbrits.com>,
	<SNT124-W48CC6F9F5427B613FAB914B7430@phx.gbl>,
	<4F695284.9040603@bradakis.com>
	<SNT124-W3601F45DF56769D8FFEB42B7400@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4F6A6146.5080603@bradakis.com>

Mike Eldred wrote:
> Mark,
> It wasn't intended as a jab, and I would certainly pick a wrench over 
> a keyboard, any day.
>

I didn't take it as a jab, just a reminder that I'm falling behind in my 
duties as
the Team.Net janitor.  One can still go to the forums [ link below ] and 
look at
stuff that is already there.  Trying to log in and post new pictures 
does not
work.  Well, you log in, it claims it works, then you are back at the 
top page
without being logged in.  What fun.

But I do intend to get it working soon so folks can easily share photos with
their Team.Net brethren.

mjb.

From jello at cableone.net  Wed Mar 21 20:59:33 2012
From: jello at cableone.net (PHIL BATES)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 20:59:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol Synthetic 20W-50
Message-ID: <CAB2zmqGYBq0Kyhv+4L+_=LTGEuCq5UJb5+JunBBQTs80ha784g@mail.gmail.com>

About a year ago there was conversation about the discontinueation of
Castrol synthetic 20W-50.  Today I saw Castrol synthetic 20W-50 for Harley
Davidson Motorcycles in my local O'Reilly's store.  It was market SL grade,
and I think it was $7 per qt (regular $10).

So stock up and/or look for it if you want it.

From palte at gmx.net  Thu Mar 22 02:04:42 2012
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 09:04:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
In-Reply-To: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <20120322080442.270020@gmx.net>

I would try Araldite AW2951/HW2101.
Industrial Grade, not cheap however.

Bert

-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:49:21 -0400
> Von: "davewillner" <davewillner at pa.net>
> An: triumphs at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent

> I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength aluminum
> bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the filler neck
> (long
> story...). Does anyone know of an industrial bonding product that is
> somewhat
> easy to use that will make a strong, permanent bonding seal?  Thanks
> 
> Dave Willner
> 
-- 
NEU: FreePhone 3-fach-Flat mit kostenlosem Smartphone!                                  
Jetzt informieren: http://mobile.1und1.de/?ac=OM.PW.PW003K20328T7073a

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Mar 22 10:44:16 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 11:44:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
In-Reply-To: <20120322080442.270020@gmx.net>
References: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<20120322080442.270020@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <4F6B56E0.4070605@justbrits.com>

<< On 3/22/2012 3:04 AM, Bert Palte wrote:
             I would try Araldite AW2951/HW2101. Industrial Grade, not 
cheap however. >>

I would like to ask Dave FIRST, WHAT alum tank & filler tank is he 
talking about ? ? ? ?

His 'sig' only lists " a 59 TR3A,  a 70 MGB and a 70 BSA 441 VS " and 
I am unaware of
any of those vehicles having alum. units ?!?!?!?

Ed

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Mar 22 13:27:16 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 19:27:16 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
Message-ID: <20120322.152716.12643.6@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

   The name for these is   Fernco couplings.     One would want to check with
Fernco about gasoline resistance, as they are (to my knowledge) plumbing
fixtures for cold water.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Chad" <mgb72 at airmail.net>
To: "'Max Heim'" <mvheim at sonic.net>, "'MG List'" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 17:56:06 -0500

Or one of those pipe repair joints that is rubber and has hose clamps on
both ends.

Chad Cooper
'72 B Roadster
Allen, TXs/mgbob at juno.com

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 22 16:10:47 2012
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 17:10:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Aluminum bonding agent
In-Reply-To: <4F6B56E0.4070605@justbrits.com>
References: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<20120322080442.270020@gmx.net> <4F6B56E0.4070605@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4F6BA367.2060001@sbcglobal.net>

Maybe it is the BSA.  Didn't some of them have aluminum tanks?  They 
could have been chrome plated though.  It has been a few years... :)

Charles Hill

On 3/22/2012 11:44 AM, " Just Brits " Shop wrote:
> <<  On 3/22/2012 3:04 AM, Bert Palte wrote:
>               I would try Araldite AW2951/HW2101. Industrial Grade, not
> cheap however.>>
>
> I would like to ask Dave FIRST, WHAT alum tank&  filler tank is he
> talking about ? ? ? ?
>
> His 'sig' only lists " a 59 TR3A,  a 70 MGB and a 70 BSA 441 VS " and
> I am unaware of
> any of those vehicles having alum. units ?!?!?!?
>
> Ed
>
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________

From lundgren at byu.net  Thu Mar 22 20:13:40 2012
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 20:13:40 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Trip counter reset in '70 B...
Message-ID: <4F6BDC54.6080704@byu.net>

Tonight when pulling out my speedometer to examine why my speedo wasn't 
working, I broke the plastic mount that holds the trip counter reset to 
the back of the speedo.

Anyone know where to get a replacement?  I use that every time I fill up 
any of my cars/motorcycle...

Thanks!
--
Andrew

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Fri Mar 23 12:33:44 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 14:33:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Moss SU fuel pump
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWPt3yXDG4L3=hqGb4Yga4vgpcyatNC9hWt2dOyhP1O7TQ@mail.gmail.com>

Looking at the Moss Motors web site I see that the fuel pump that they
list for the MGB is described as
"Not polarity sensitive".  I know that the older ones had a diode to
prevent arcing across the points which
obviously made them polarity sensitive.  Any idea what the new ones are using?

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Mar 24 03:45:03 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 09:45:03 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Moss SU fuel pump
References: <CAC8_WWPt3yXDG4L3=hqGb4Yga4vgpcyatNC9hWt2dOyhP1O7TQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <566A3983538A47A393A5F77C91339C2D@paul>

Originally the MGB fuel pump used capacitor quenching which was not polarity 
sensitive.  However it still resulted in some points burning, so a diode was 
substituted towards the end of production which was much more effective, but 
made them polarity sensitive.  These had an 'AZX' prefix.  Subsequently the 
diode was replaced by a metal oxide varistor or transient voltage suppressor 
which is not polarity sensitive, but uses the same part number as the 
earlier negative earth diode i.e. polarity sensitive pump.  Some sources 
still quote these as polarity sensitive, and even the supplier SU Burlen 
were confusing at one time at least as the box stated 'dual polarity' but 
the instructions inside stated 'All AZX pump are polarity sensitive'.  The 
only way to be really sure what you have is to remove the electrical end 
cap.  Diodes are black cylinders with one black and one red coming out of 
one end.  MOV/TVS tend to be blue discs with two wires the same colour.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Looking at the Moss Motors web site I see that the fuel pump that they
> list for the MGB is described as
> "Not polarity sensitive".  I know that the older ones had a diode to
> prevent arcing across the points which
> obviously made them polarity sensitive.  Any idea what the new ones are 
> using?

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Mar 24 04:03:30 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 05:03:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss SU fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <566A3983538A47A393A5F77C91339C2D@paul>
References: <CAC8_WWPt3yXDG4L3=hqGb4Yga4vgpcyatNC9hWt2dOyhP1O7TQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<566A3983538A47A393A5F77C91339C2D@paul>
Message-ID: <4F6D9BF2.6090904@justbrits.com>

HeeHee, Paul.................

<<  On 3/24/2012 4:45 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
         Diodes are black cylinders with one black and one red coming 
out of one end. >>

Not necessarily so - here <G> !!

Clear glass cylinders with black paint 'value label' and "arrow" ( |<  
|>  (sorta<G>)) and just silver leads.

Ed
(former 2-way radio Tech. <G> [past life time] <G>)
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Mar 24 08:19:17 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 14:19:17 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Moss SU fuel pump
References: <CAC8_WWPt3yXDG4L3=hqGb4Yga4vgpcyatNC9hWt2dOyhP1O7TQ@mail.gmail.com><566A3983538A47A393A5F77C91339C2D@paul>
	<4F6D9BF2.6090904@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <07081F3C23CA4689AECAF163E73ADFE9@paul>

There are very many physical designs for diodes *if* you are talking about 
wider usage.  I was talking about the ones used in the SU pump :o)

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> HeeHee, Paul.................
>
> <<  On 3/24/2012 4:45 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>         Diodes are black cylinders with one black and one red coming
> out of one end. >>
>
> Not necessarily so - here <G> !!
>
> Clear glass cylinders with black paint 'value label' and "arrow" ( |<
> |>  (sorta<G>)) and just silver leads.
>
> Ed
> (former 2-way radio Tech. <G> [past life time] <G>)
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________

From allan.thompson at ntlworld.com  Sat Mar 24 14:52:09 2012
From: allan.thompson at ntlworld.com (Thompson Allan)
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 16:52:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust recommendations
Message-ID: <CABrxh4G94JXjiNto9XhJ9ts2x-HixheNPOXMsoNRibUYCoHKEQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi there,

Does anyone have any recommendations for a full length exhaust system for a
1960 MGA?

I am looking at a stainless steel version...

MG Owners Club in the UK have a version at:
http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_SPARES_SYSTEM_TAIL_MANIFOLD__MGA__319.html#l1

which looks like the one at :-
http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/csc/full.aspx?Page=29

and Moss motors have one at :-
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=95357

I am in Florida by the way..!

thanks in anticipation,

Allan

From riverside at southslope.net  Sat Mar 24 18:27:35 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 19:27:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust recommendations
In-Reply-To: <CABrxh4G94JXjiNto9XhJ9ts2x-HixheNPOXMsoNRibUYCoHKEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABrxh4G94JXjiNto9XhJ9ts2x-HixheNPOXMsoNRibUYCoHKEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7207B10ED41342919D380B495F529473@rileyPC>

I recommend the Moss system. I have installed several on MG As and Bs.
They fit very well, look great and also sound good. On any stainless exhaust
system use the band style clamps so as not to crimp the pipes.  You will 
want
to disassemble someday for service to items such as clutch without ruining
a stainless exhaust pipe.
Ron Sanborn

-----Original Message----- 
From: Thompson Allan
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2012 3:52 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust recommendations

Hi there,

Does anyone have any recommendations for a full length exhaust system for a
1960 MGA?

I am looking at a stainless steel version...

MG Owners Club in the UK have a version at:
http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_SPARES_SYSTEM_TAIL_MANIFOLD__MGA__319.html#l1

which looks like the one at :-
http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/csc/full.aspx?Page=29

and Moss motors have one at :-
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=95357

I am in Florida by the way..!

thanks in anticipation,

Allan
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4891 - Release Date: 03/24/12 

From allan.thompson at ntlworld.com  Sat Mar 24 19:49:11 2012
From: allan.thompson at ntlworld.com (Thompson Allan)
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 21:49:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust recommendations
In-Reply-To: <7207B10ED41342919D380B495F529473@rileyPC>
References: <CABrxh4G94JXjiNto9XhJ9ts2x-HixheNPOXMsoNRibUYCoHKEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<7207B10ED41342919D380B495F529473@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <CABrxh4G_SwqT4nJK00wg0-oRK0-3bi0aeFKFUuTLBAnTVxXa6g@mail.gmail.com>

That's good advice - thanks!

Allan

On 24 March 2012 20:27, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> I recommend the Moss system. I have installed several on MG As and Bs.
> They fit very well, look great and also sound good. On any stainless
> exhaust
> system use the band style clamps so as not to crimp the pipes.  You will
> want
> to disassemble someday for service to items such as clutch without ruining
> a stainless exhaust pipe.
> Ron Sanborn
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Thompson Allan
> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2012 3:52 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust recommendations
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> Does anyone have any recommendations for a full length exhaust system for a
> 1960 MGA?
>
> I am looking at a stainless steel version...
>
> MG Owners Club in the UK have a version at:
> http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/**acatalog/MGOC_SPARES_SYSTEM_**
> TAIL_MANIFOLD__MGA__319.html#**l1<http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_SPARES_SYSTEM_TAIL_MANIFOLD__MGA__319.html#l1>
>
> which looks like the one at :-
> http://www.victoriabritish.**com/icatalog/csc/full.aspx?**Page=29<http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/csc/full.aspx?Page=29>
>
> and Moss motors have one at :-
> http://www.mossmotors.com/**Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?**PlateIndexID=95357<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=95357>
>
> I am in Florida by the way..!
>
> thanks in anticipation,
>
> Allan
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/riverside@**
> southslope.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4891 - Release Date: 03/24/12

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Sun Mar 25 19:36:26 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 21:36:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket
Message-ID: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com>

I drove my MGB to work Friday.  While coming back from my lunch break, I
noticed that the gear shift pattern seemed to have moved to the right.
Then, as I was driving home it, became progressively more and more difficult
to shift into third and fourth gears.  Finally, as I got off of the parkway,
about a mile from home, it would not go into third or fourth at all.

When I put the car up on the lift, I discovered that bracket which holds the
right hand motor mount to the engine had broken into three pieces.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/75758245 at N00/7016009235/in/photostream

I am guessing that this was metal fatigue, but what would have caused this?

Is it a common problem with MGs of this vintage?

FWIW, my MG is a 1980 'B with about 113k miles on it.  I bought it 20+ years
ago when it had 38k miles on it.  The engine has been out three times, once
for a new clutch, once for to replace the gearbox with a used o/d gearbox,
and once to replace the used o/d gearbox with a rebuilt one.  I replaced all
of the rubber engine and gearbox mounts, but not the brackets, in 1999 when
I did the first gearbox swap.

Any thoughts would be welcome.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Mar 25 19:52:44 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 18:52:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com>

We just removed the prop shaft from the '71 MGB GT that my kids drive.
According to my Haynes manual, the prop shaft should be held in place by
bolts that are inserter through the flanges of the propshaft first, then
through the flanges on the gearbox and differential, with the nuts on the
outer side.

What we found was that the bolts were inserted the other way. In fact, at
the gearbox end, after removing the nuts and pulling the propshaft of the
bolts, the bolts can not be removed -- there is not enough space. These
bolts have a circular head with a small segment removed. When pushed fully
in the removed segment meshes with something in the flange and stops the
bolt from rotating.

While removing the prop shaft, we  found Nylok nuts while the Haynes manual
shows regular nuts and washers.

Is it sensible to replace the Nylok  nuts with new Nylok nuts? Or go back
to what the Haynes manual shows?

The rear universal joint had completely failed - to the point that it had
also damaged the shaft where the U-joint fastens into the shaft. It is just
as well that I had ordered a complete new shaft when I noticed some play in
the U-joint while adjusting the brakes!

Simon

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sun Mar 25 20:16:46 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 19:16:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket
In-Reply-To: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CB951F9E.38E85%mvheim@sonic.net>

Just old, I guess. Don't believe there is any pattern of failure with these.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 3/25/12 6:36 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss at gmail.com wrote:

> I drove my MGB to work Friday.  While coming back from my lunch break, I
> noticed that the gear shift pattern seemed to have moved to the right.
> Then, as I was driving home it, became progressively more and more difficult
> to shift into third and fourth gears.  Finally, as I got off of the parkway,
> about a mile from home, it would not go into third or fourth at all.
> 
> When I put the car up on the lift, I discovered that bracket which holds the
> right hand motor mount to the engine had broken into three pieces.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/75758245 at N00/7016009235/in/photostream
> 
> I am guessing that this was metal fatigue, but what would have caused this?
> 
> Is it a common problem with MGs of this vintage?
> 
> FWIW, my MG is a 1980 'B with about 113k miles on it.  I bought it 20+ years
> ago when it had 38k miles on it.  The engine has been out three times, once
> for a new clutch, once for to replace the gearbox with a used o/d gearbox,
> and once to replace the used o/d gearbox with a rebuilt one.  I replaced all
> of the rubber engine and gearbox mounts, but not the brackets, in 1999 when
> I did the first gearbox swap.
> 
> Any thoughts would be welcome.
> 
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Mar 25 21:05:33 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 22:05:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201203260305.q2Q35YmA014036@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

Simon,

I don't have an SPL for MGB, but I believe those were originally 
Aerotight Stiffnuts, all steel self-locking nuts, like this:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt104d.htm
Nylock nuts work, as long as you use new ones occasionally when the 
nylon insert wears lose.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 06:52 PM 3/25/2012 -0700, Simon Matthews wrote:
>We just removed the prop shaft from the '71 MGB GT that my kids drive.
>According to my Haynes manual, the prop shaft should be held in place by
>bolts that are inserter through the flanges of the propshaft first, then
>through the flanges on the gearbox and differential, with the nuts on the
>outer side.
>....
>While removing the prop shaft, we  found Nylok nuts while the Haynes manual
>shows regular nuts and washers.
>
>Is it sensible to replace the Nylok  nuts with new Nylok nuts? Or go back
>to what the Haynes manual shows?
>....

From otis15 at aol.com  Mon Mar 26 09:10:07 2012
From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 11:10:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket
In-Reply-To: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com>
References: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <8CED979AA13799B-1CB0-1583C@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com>

When I pulled the engine out of my 71 GT last year it also had a small split
in the right mount in the same area as you'rs.
????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Steve




-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Schauss &lt;rpschauss at gmail.com&gt;
To: Mgs-Digest &lt;mgs at autox.team.net&gt;
Sent: Sun, Mar 25, 2012 9:36 pm
Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket




I drove my MGB to work Friday.  While coming back from my lunch break, I
noticed that the gear shift pattern seemed to have moved to the right.
Then, as I was driving home it, became progressively more and more difficult
to shift into third and fourth gears.  Finally, as I got off of the parkway,
about a mile from home, it would not go into third or fourth at all.

When I put the car up on the lift, I discovered that bracket which holds the
right hand motor mount to the engine had broken into three pieces.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/75758245 at N00/7016009235/in/photostream

I am guessing that this was metal fatigue, but what would have caused this?

Is it a common problem with MGs of this vintage?

FWIW, my MG is a 1980 'B with about 113k miles on it.  I bought it 20+ years
ago when it had 38k miles on it.  The engine has been out three times, once
for a new clutch, once for to replace the gearbox with a used o/d gearbox,
and once to replace the used o/d gearbox with a rebuilt one.  I replaced all
of the rubber engine and gearbox mounts, but not the brackets, in 1999 when
I did the first gearbox swap.

Any thoughts would be welcome.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/otis15 at aol.com

From lfritz82 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 26 18:27:13 2012
From: lfritz82 at hotmail.com (Windows Live Team)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 00:27:13 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket
In-Reply-To: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com>
References: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <SNT143-W8D34313D092CC36198D63DA4A0@phx.gbl>

Peter,  I can't count the number of MGB motor mount brackets I've changed
since they went to this style about 1977.  You are not alone as most of them
are cracked or broken.  Lorne

> From: rpschauss at gmail.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 21:36:26 -0400
> Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket
>
> I drove my MGB to work Friday. While coming back from my lunch break, I
> noticed that the gear shift pattern seemed to have moved to the right.
> Then, as I was driving home it, became progressively more and more
difficult
> to shift into third and fourth gears. Finally, as I got off of the parkway,
> about a mile from home, it would not go into third or fourth at all.
>
> When I put the car up on the lift, I discovered that bracket which holds
the
> right hand motor mount to the engine had broken into three pieces.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/75758245 at N00/7016009235/in/photostream
>
> I am guessing that this was metal fatigue, but what would have caused this?
>
> Is it a common problem with MGs of this vintage?
>
> FWIW, my MG is a 1980 'B with about 113k miles on it. I bought it 20+ years
> ago when it had 38k miles on it. The engine has been out three times, once
> for a new clutch, once for to replace the gearbox with a used o/d gearbox,
> and once to replace the used o/d gearbox with a rebuilt one. I replaced all
> of the rubber engine and gearbox mounts, but not the brackets, in 1999 when
> I did the first gearbox swap.
>
> Any thoughts would be welcome.
>
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lfritz82 at hotmail.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Mar 26 18:43:04 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 19:43:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-W8D34313D092CC36198D63DA4A0@phx.gbl>
References: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com>
	<SNT143-W8D34313D092CC36198D63DA4A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4F710D18.1070607@justbrits.com>

<< On 3/26/2012 7:27 PM, Windows Live Team wrote:
             Peter, I can't count the number of MGB motor mount 
brackets I've changed
             since they went to this style about 1977.
             You are not alone as most of them are cracked or broken. >>

Interesting Lorne, interesting <G> !!

I've had the exact opposite occurrences !!  I've had NONE [heard of 
the problem
tho <G>].

Peter's pic is the first one I have 'seen' ?!?!?

Ed
please visit MY site at"
www.justbrits.com

PS:  Lorne, I am curious to know why your post was addressed to 
"Windows Live Team"
(yourself ??) & "accounts_renewal at hotmail.com" AND Peter (as he 
will/would get in List Mail?)
along with mgs at autox.............  ?!?!?!?  Just curious, mind you 
<VBG> ! ! !
PPS:  THIS post is only addressed to mgs at autox.................... !?!

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Mar 27 01:51:30 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 08:51:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Dynamo output reverses
Message-ID: <D1957563ECA4483CA7335E26297F6406@paul>

During a track-day a pal noticed his dynamo had stopped charging.  We removed
the leads to do a dynamo output test and I connected the meter leads and
noticed a small negative output.  "Stupid boy", I thought, it's positive earth
(I'd connected the meter as I would on my alternator-equipped cars) but the
owner said it was negative earth.  Checked my meter on the brown lead at the
fusebox and sure enough that showed positive 12v, but on the dynamo output
terminal (no wires connected to either terminal) I still had this small
negative voltage.  It should be a small positive voltage, as that is fed back
to the field winding by the control box, which generates a bigger output,
which fed back to the field generates even more output and so on until the
control box connects the output to the battery to start charging.  Pal thought
it was brushes, but a resistance check on both field and output showed a very
low resistance as I would expect.  Even tried flashing the field from the
brown at the fusebox but it made now difference.  Subsequently pal changed the
brushes but that made no difference either.  Any ideas?

PaulH.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Mar 27 02:27:45 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 09:27:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <756C32BB770F4907B04973F830BEB603@paul>

You are correct, see here - http://tinyurl.com/brsangn.  The bolts can only 
be removed/fitted once the gearbox flange has been removed from the shaft. 
Nylocs are probably at least as good as plain nuts even with spring-washers.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> What we found was that the bolts were inserted the other way. In fact, at
> the gearbox end, after removing the nuts and pulling the propshaft of the
> bolts, the bolts can not be removed -- there is not enough space. These
> bolts have a circular head with a small segment removed. When pushed fully
> in the removed segment meshes with something in the flange and stops the
> bolt from rotating.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Mar 27 02:15:54 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 09:15:54 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Broken motor mount bracket
References: <4f6fc822.c321e00a.3f9f.290d@mx.google.com><SNT143-W8D34313D092CC36198D63DA4A0@phx.gbl>
	<4F710D18.1070607@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <3568445594154C6EB8C54406CDF9E5AE@paul>

Can't claim to have seen as many as Lorne, but I *have* heard of them, and 
the one engine of that type I've removed did have a significant crack.  I 
specifically looked for it having heard of it.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I've had the exact opposite occurrences !!  I've had NONE [heard of
> the problem
> tho <G>].

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue Mar 27 09:45:22 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 08:45:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
In-Reply-To: <756C32BB770F4907B04973F830BEB603@paul>
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<756C32BB770F4907B04973F830BEB603@paul>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyP1uuH6bt8s+Ndnb9kDix63TpPuVtBL2DHkGo99rWM=Sw@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 1:27 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>wrote:

> You are correct, see here - http://tinyurl.com/brsangn.  The bolts can
> only be removed/fitted once the gearbox flange has been removed from the
> shaft. Nylocs are probably at least as good as plain nuts even with
> spring-washers.
>
>
Just as well that we did not have to cut any of the nuts off (and the bolt
with it) as we had to do for one of the bolts at the rear end of the
propshaft.

While on this subject, what is the best way to jack up the car for this
project? I put the car on ramps, but found that we had to turn a wheel in
order to gain access to two of the bolts at the rear. Hence we hacked up
one wheel off the ramp, turned the wheel and dropped it back onto the ramp.
Not something that I really wanted to do. Also, jacking up the body of the
car and letting the rear axle drop would give better access to the rear
propshaft nuts. But where to put the jackstands?

Simon

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Mar 27 10:53:00 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 17:53:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com><756C32BB770F4907B04973F830BEB603@paul>
	<CAEUYfyP1uuH6bt8s+Ndnb9kDix63TpPuVtBL2DHkGo99rWM=Sw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F878F80F45934C8AAC31AD18151BB4C2@paul>

I drive it onto ramps then jack under one spring bottom plate when greasing
the UJs for example.  The jack only needs to go up an inch or so for the tyre
to clear the ramp, so leaving plenty of room if the jack should happen to
fail.  This is the *only* time I work under anything jacked.  For anything
needing the axle hanging down the stands go under the front hangers, but you
do need to be aware that if the rebound straps fail the axle will drop
further.  Ramps and a jack raising a wheel if a wheel needs to be turned *is*
safer.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  While on this subject, what is the best way to jack up the car for this
project? I put the car on ramps, but found that we had to turn a wheel in
order to gain access to two of the bolts at the rear. Hence we hacked up one
wheel off the ramp, turned the wheel and dropped it back onto the ramp. Not
something that I really wanted to do. Also, jacking up the body of the car and
letting the rear axle drop would give better access to the rear propshaft
nuts. But where to put the jackstands?

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue Mar 27 11:04:35 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 10:04:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
In-Reply-To: <F878F80F45934C8AAC31AD18151BB4C2@paul>
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<756C32BB770F4907B04973F830BEB603@paul>
	<CAEUYfyP1uuH6bt8s+Ndnb9kDix63TpPuVtBL2DHkGo99rWM=Sw@mail.gmail.com>
	<F878F80F45934C8AAC31AD18151BB4C2@paul>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyNCnnh1bdwT-NUJ-PeiqJTsDpArEHYNGeWZd3iEpOes0g@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 9:53 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>wrote:

> **
> I drive it onto ramps then jack under one spring bottom plate when
> greasing the UJs for example.  The jack only needs to go up an inch or so
> for the tyre to clear the ramp, so leaving plenty of room if the jack
> should happen to fail.  This is the *only* time I work under anything
> jacked.  For anything needing the axle hanging down the stands go under the
> front hangers, but you do need to be aware that if the rebound straps fail
> the axle will drop further.  Ramps and a jack raising a wheel if a wheel
> needs to be turned *is* safer.
>

Safety was the reason I used ramps in the first place. It appears that you
would do somthing similar what I did. The only problem I had was that my
jack would not go high enough to raise the wheel off the ramp, so that  I
had to put the jack on some wood. We did not work under the car like this
-- just jacked up the wheel, turned it, dropped the wheel back on the ramp
and worked on the prop shaft aqain.

Simon

>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> While on this subject, what is the best way to jack up the car for this
> project? I put the car on ramps, but found that we had to turn a wheel in
> order to gain access to two of the bolts at the rear. Hence we hacked up
> one wheel off the ramp, turned the wheel and dropped it back onto the ramp.
> Not something that I really wanted to do. Also, jacking up the body of the
> car and letting the rear axle drop would give better access to the rear
> propshaft nuts. But where to put the jackstands?

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Mar 27 11:00:34 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 10:00:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyP1uuH6bt8s+Ndnb9kDix63TpPuVtBL2DHkGo99rWM=Sw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CB974042.38F41%mvheim@sonic.net>

I usually put the jackstands under the rear axle. But if I want the axle to
hang down, I put them under the front spring eye brackets. Both of these
locations are capable of supporting the weight of the car.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 3/27/12 8:45 AM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 1:27 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>wrote:
> 
>> You are correct, see here - http://tinyurl.com/brsangn.  The bolts can
>> only be removed/fitted once the gearbox flange has been removed from the
>> shaft. Nylocs are probably at least as good as plain nuts even with
>> spring-washers.
>> 
>> 
> Just as well that we did not have to cut any of the nuts off (and the bolt
> with it) as we had to do for one of the bolts at the rear end of the
> propshaft.
> 
> While on this subject, what is the best way to jack up the car for this
> project? I put the car on ramps, but found that we had to turn a wheel in
> order to gain access to two of the bolts at the rear. Hence we hacked up
> one wheel off the ramp, turned the wheel and dropped it back onto the ramp.
> Not something that I really wanted to do. Also, jacking up the body of the
> car and letting the rear axle drop would give better access to the rear
> propshaft nuts. But where to put the jackstands?
> 
> Simon

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Mar 28 01:35:11 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 08:35:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com><756C32BB770F4907B04973F830BEB603@paul><CAEUYfyP1uuH6bt8s+Ndnb9kDix63TpPuVtBL2DHkGo99rWM=Sw@mail.gmail.com><F878F80F45934C8AAC31AD18151BB4C2@paul>
	<CAEUYfyNCnnh1bdwT-NUJ-PeiqJTsDpArEHYNGeWZd3iEpOes0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <61246F0F91864C0B9E8CEBFF0D8FDF43@paul>

Same here (I use two blocks, crosswise, under the body of the trolley jack not
the wheels), but the wheel only has to be raised about an inch, the body moves
less than that but is already 9" or so higher off the ground than normal
giving plenty of space I can live with the risk of it dropping 1/2".  Having
to crawl in and out and jack it up and down three times to grease the
propshaft UJs with my back and knees as they are is not a prospect I favour
:o)

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
   The only problem I had was that my jack would not go high enough to raise
the wheel off the ramp, so that  I had to put the jack on some wood.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Mar 28 01:41:28 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 08:41:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Dynamo output reverses
References: <D1957563ECA4483CA7335E26297F6406@paul>
	<COL113-W621D4613365D2D2D8779F6CB4A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <01D1346F9BD041C9A8523B94CC04F848@paul>

The control box wasn't connected at the time I was getting the negative
voltage from the (should have been positive) output terminal.  Apparently when
they changed the brushes it became obvious that the bearings are shot, so if
the armature is flapping about that could cause all sorts of problems.  It
remains with said pal to see if he will replace the dynamo as has been
recommended.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  If you are really certain that the field winding is OK (not open) then it
would likely be the regulator (control box).

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Mar 28 10:10:31 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 11:10:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss SU fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <07081F3C23CA4689AECAF163E73ADFE9@paul>
References: <CAC8_WWPt3yXDG4L3=hqGb4Yga4vgpcyatNC9hWt2dOyhP1O7TQ@mail.gmail.com><566A3983538A47A393A5F77C91339C2D@paul>
	<4F6D9BF2.6090904@justbrits.com>
	<07081F3C23CA4689AECAF163E73ADFE9@paul>
Message-ID: <4F7337F7.50803@justbrits.com>

<< I was talking about the ones used in the SU pump>>

So was I, Paul !  Last one I had open HAD glass w/black lettering 
diode <G> ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Mar 28 10:18:32 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 11:18:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Dynamo output reverses
In-Reply-To: <D1957563ECA4483CA7335E26297F6406@paul>
References: <D1957563ECA4483CA7335E26297F6406@paul>
Message-ID: <201203281618.q2SGIY4G007394@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

See charging circuit here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_c.htm
Notice ground connections inside the generator.  This is parallel 
wound, meaning that both field and armature are connected between 
power and ground.  If you switch the leads on the brushes it will 
reverse output polarity of the armature.  My bet is the brush leads 
have been switched (or brushes swapped in the holders).  When you 
install new brushes, R&R only one at a time so they get connected 
same as original.  This of course assumes the old ones were connected properly.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 08:51 AM 3/27/2012 +0100, Paul Hunt wrote:
>.... a pal noticed his dynamo had stopped charging.  We removed the 
>leads to do a dynamo output test and I connected the meter leads and 
>noticed a small negative output. .... but the owner said it was 
>negative earth.  .... sure enough that showed positive 12v, .... a 
>resistance check on both field and output showed a very low 
>resistance as I would expect.  Even tried flashing the field from 
>the brown at the fusebox but it made now difference.  ....
>....

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 28 14:42:47 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 16:42:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
In-Reply-To: <61246F0F91864C0B9E8CEBFF0D8FDF43@paul>
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com><756C32BB770F4907B04973F830BEB603@paul><CAEUYfyP1uuH6bt8s+Ndnb9kDix63TpPuVtBL2DHkGo99rWM=Sw@mail.gmail.com><F878F80F45934C8AAC31AD18151BB4C2@paul>,
	<CAEUYfyNCnnh1bdwT-NUJ-PeiqJTsDpArEHYNGeWZd3iEpOes0g@mail.gmail.com>,
	<61246F0F91864C0B9E8CEBFF0D8FDF43@paul>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W43E25F0C1C03E8434C24ACB74B0@phx.gbl>

About 70 years ago my grandfather, a diesel
mechanic/welder/blacksmith/machinist, cut a trap door into the wood floor of
his shop to make a handy grease pit.  Thanks to Gramps, I can just walk under
my car, reach up, and wrench on anything under the car.  It has allowed me to
work when various back injuries would otherwise have halted progress.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT
'54 MG TF'73 Midget'51 M38 Jeep


> From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
> To: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
> Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 08:35:11 +0100
> CC: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
regular nuts?
>
> Same here (I use two blocks, crosswise, under the body of the trolley jack
not
> the wheels), but the wheel only has to be raised about an inch, the body
moves
> less than that but is already 9" or so higher off the ground than normal
> giving plenty of space I can live with the risk of it dropping 1/2".
Having
> to crawl in and out and jack it up and down three times to grease the
> propshaft UJs with my back and knees as they are is not a prospect I favour
> :o)
>
> PaulH.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>    The only problem I had was that my jack would not go high enough to
raise
> the wheel off the ramp, so that  I had to put the jack on some wood.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Mar 29 01:41:34 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 08:41:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss SU fuel pump
References: <CAC8_WWPt3yXDG4L3=hqGb4Yga4vgpcyatNC9hWt2dOyhP1O7TQ@mail.gmail.com><566A3983538A47A393A5F77C91339C2D@paul><4F6D9BF2.6090904@justbrits.com><07081F3C23CA4689AECAF163E73ADFE9@paul>
	<4F7337F7.50803@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <72BC4FB967F8466D9253979C546FD43D@paul>

Fair do's.

----- Original Message ----- 

> << I was talking about the ones used in the SU pump>>
> 
> So was I, Paul !  Last one I had open HAD glass w/black lettering 
> diode <G> ! !

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Mar 29 20:36:31 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 19:36:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Dynamo output reverses
In-Reply-To: <201203281618.q2SGIY4G007394@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
References: <D1957563ECA4483CA7335E26297F6406@paul>
	<201203281618.q2SGIY4G007394@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyOG_pn4R4cQ8rafbYE28PoqJrkPK0tqjAVpq4ZhO5qTSw@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Mar 28, 2012 at 9:18 AM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>wrote:

> See charging circuit here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/**electric/circ_c.htm<http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_c.htm>
> Notice ground connections inside the generator.  This is parallel wound,
> meaning that both field and armature are connected between power and
> ground.  If you switch the leads on the brushes it will reverse output
> polarity of the armature.  My bet is the brush leads have been switched (or
> brushes swapped in the holders).  When you install new brushes, R&R only
> one at a time so they get connected same as original.  This of course
> assumes the old ones were connected properly.
>

The last time I R&R'd my generator, I don't recall there being any doubt
about how the brushes were connected.

For Paul: also, the rear bearing was completely shot and it still worked,
although the output was rather low. Certainly, the bad bearing did not
reverse the polarity.

Simon

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Mar 29 23:13:46 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 22:13:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
In-Reply-To: <201203260305.q2Q35YmA014036@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<201203260305.q2Q35YmA014036@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyNC7kpR4FAar50jy8Su5Wzsssvz4d62tPi1oOqa6hA6UQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Mar 25, 2012 at 8:05 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>wrote:

> Simon,
>
> I don't have an SPL for MGB, but I believe those were originally Aerotight
> Stiffnuts, all steel self-locking nuts, like this:
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/**restore/rt104d.htm<http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt104d.htm>
> Nylock nuts work, as long as you use new ones occasionally when the nylon
> insert wears lose.]
>

So I ordered new nuts and bolts from Moss. What arrived were regular nuts
with lockwashers. Will these be secure?

Simon

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Mar 30 01:27:48 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 08:27:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
References: <CAEUYfyMm817+ffC1VHyQJVOdwx_U4RmVh5MNhquwgEeJLh9wKQ@mail.gmail.com><201203260305.q2Q35YmA014036@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
	<CAEUYfyNC7kpR4FAar50jy8Su5Wzsssvz4d62tPi1oOqa6hA6UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <99AC27BF6DFC4FD9AD0B36ECE1B09F17@paul>

That was what they were originally - spring-washers anyway.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> So I ordered new nuts and bolts from Moss. What arrived were regular nuts
> with lockwashers. Will these be secure?

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sat Mar 31 13:12:27 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 12:12:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
Message-ID: <CB9CA52B.39135%mvheim@sonic.net>

I just stumbled upon this item (#117-515) in the Moss catalog, and I was
wondering if anyone had any experience with it. The description is rather
sparse. In the past I have read tech articles about installing headlight
relays. I was wondering if this came with good instructions, quality wire,
etc.
TIA.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 31 18:25:03 2012
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 17:25:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
In-Reply-To: <CB9CA52B.39135%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1333239903.49297.YahooMailClassic@web113311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I can Very Highly recommend this product;
http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Eric Marshall who makes these products stands fully and actively behind them.
It is a very well thought out setup that requires only cutting one wire and it
is completely reversable if wanted.
I have it in both 73 GT's and love them.
FWIW, YMMV
Carl

--- On Sat, 3/31/12, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:

From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, March 31, 2012, 3:12 PM

I just stumbled upon this item (#117-515) in the Moss catalog, and I was
wondering if anyone had any experience with it. The description is rather
sparse. In the past I have read tech articles about installing headlight
relays. I was wondering if this came with good instructions, quality wire,
etc.
TIA.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/leylandauto at yahoo.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sat Mar 31 19:43:10 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 18:43:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
In-Reply-To: <1333239903.49297.YahooMailClassic@web113311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CB9D00BE.3914C%mvheim@sonic.net>

Thanks for the link, that looks like a well-designed setup.

The first one I found was MAD Electric -- it was generic for any kind of
car. Then I saw the Moss one, but it looks pretty skimpy compared to this
kit.

Does the 73 use the "standard" kit or the "long" kit? Where did you mount
the relays?


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 3/31/12 5:25 PM, Carl French at leylandauto at yahoo.com wrote:

> I can Very Highly recommend this product;
> http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html
> 
> Eric Marshall who makes these products stands fully and actively behind them.
> It is a very well thought out setup that requires only cutting one wire and it
> is completely reversable if wanted.
> I have it in both 73 GT's and love them.
> FWIW, YMMV
> Carl
> 
> --- On Sat, 3/31/12, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
> 
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, March 31, 2012, 3:12 PM
> 
> I just stumbled upon this item (#117-515) in the Moss catalog, and I was
> wondering if anyone had any experience with it. The description is rather
> sparse. In the past I have read tech articles about installing headlight
> relays. I was wondering if this came with good instructions, quality wire,
> etc.
> TIA.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sat Mar 31 19:49:01 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 18:49:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
In-Reply-To: <F24D332C-3D90-451B-BA6E-C357D9471996@z.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <CB9D021D.3914E%mvheim@sonic.net>

Yes, I'm familiar with the concept. I was looking for a kit because I'm no
kind of electrician and can't be trusted to make solder connections.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 3/31/12 12:29 PM, Paul Osborne at posborne at z.rochester.edu wrote:

> Max, the idea behind the kit is the take the full current load off the light
> switch contacts and let the relay contacts do the switching. The light switch
> then just has to energize the relay which is
> a lot less current switching. the Moss kit, I do not know about. I have
> installed a 12v 30A relay for the lights, OD, wipers, driving lights, .  If
> you are having problems let me know and I can send you my diagram.
> 
> paul
> 
> 
> On Mar 31, 2012, at 3:12 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> 
>> I just stumbled upon this item (#117-515) in the Moss catalog, and I was
>> wondering if anyone had any experience with it. The description is rather
>> sparse. In the past I have read tech articles about installing headlight
>> relays. I was wondering if this came with good instructions, quality wire,
>> etc.
>> TIA.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

> 
> 
> 
> Paul Osborne
> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng.
> University of Rochester
> 201 Hopeman Building RC
> Rochester NY 14627
> 585-275-5226