From mgmagnette at aol.com  Sun Jul  1 14:53:43 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 16:53:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1275 cc Midget A-series...  Tappet covers?
Message-ID: <08CD62F5-7CBD-4C9E-8607-ED684029BAE0@aol.com>

Do 1275 midget engines have tappet covers?   

-John

Sent from my iPad

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Jul  1 23:48:23 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2012 00:48:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1275 cc Midget A-series...  Tappet covers?
In-Reply-To: <08CD62F5-7CBD-4C9E-8607-ED684029BAE0@aol.com>
References: <08CD62F5-7CBD-4C9E-8607-ED684029BAE0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201207020548.q625mPsn001671@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

No.  Load tappets from bottom before installing camshaft.


At 04:53 PM 7/1/2012 -0400, John Elwood wrote:
>Do 1275 midget engines have tappet covers?
>....

From guinness at stclegal.com  Wed Jul  4 15:07:59 2012
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2012 16:07:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Steering Arm removal
Message-ID: <4FF4B0AF.30701@stclegal.com>

I need to replace a bent and corroded swivel pin.  I assume you need to 
remove the steering arm (lever) from the steering knuckle. How do you 
remove the steering arm?  Gentle to firm strikes from a hammer on the 
threaded side yields no results.
-- 
e-mail signature Robert Guinness

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Wed Jul  4 18:28:24 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 20:28:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage MGA pic
Message-ID: <5E543879-671B-439C-AD7C-0C704EE324B9@aol.com>

>From a favorite website, Shorpy.

http://www.shorpy.com/node/12883?size=_original#caption

From 71mgbgt at gmail.com  Wed Jul  4 19:45:59 2012
From: 71mgbgt at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 19:45:59 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage MGA pic
In-Reply-To: <5E543879-671B-439C-AD7C-0C704EE324B9@aol.com>
References: <5E543879-671B-439C-AD7C-0C704EE324B9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPx2zFG2K-42jiOXgdqiZor80GdHXKBNBGJNf5BHBP=J=NB0hA@mail.gmail.com>

John,

Great photo.

Interesting to see the suit and tie as well as the 50's & 40's cars on
the street.

Henri

On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 6:28 PM, John Elwood <mgmagnette at aol.com> wrote:
> From a favorite website, Shorpy.
>
> http://www.shorpy.com/node/12883?size=_original#caption
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/71mgbgt at gmail.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jul  4 20:25:39 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2012 21:25:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage MGA pic
In-Reply-To: <CAPx2zFG2K-42jiOXgdqiZor80GdHXKBNBGJNf5BHBP=J=NB0hA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5E543879-671B-439C-AD7C-0C704EE324B9@aol.com>
	<CAPx2zFG2K-42jiOXgdqiZor80GdHXKBNBGJNf5BHBP=J=NB0hA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FF4FB23.9000603@justbrits.com>

Did you check out the Link that John included, Henri ? ? ?   Some more 
of 'cars on the street' <G> ! !

<< On 7/4/2012 8:45 PM, Henri Lefebvre wrote:
             Interesting to see the suit and tie as well as the 50's & 
40's cars on the street. >>

Thanks John, for pic AND site ! !   Fred reminds me of my Dad in his Metropolitan going to work at Patrick Air Force Base for Pan Am, Guided Missile Range Division <G> ! !  However, no street for other houses much less cars as he had about 1/2 mile of SAND 'road' to navigate thru Orange Trees just to get to road to the town of Merritt Island <VBG> ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  5 04:57:13 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 03:57:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage MGA pic
In-Reply-To: <5E543879-671B-439C-AD7C-0C704EE324B9@aol.com>
References: <5E543879-671B-439C-AD7C-0C704EE324B9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1341485833.34370.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Shorpy IS a great site, John! I haven't scanned it in a while, thanks for the
reminder...

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: John Elwood <mgmagnette at aol.com>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2012 8:28 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Vintage MGA pic
 
>From a favorite website, Shorpy.
http://www.shorpy.com/node/12883?size=_original#caption
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From guinness at stclegal.com  Thu Jul  5 09:43:41 2012
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 10:43:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuilt front Shock
Message-ID: <4FF5B62D.8040000@stclegal.com>

I recently purchased a rebuilt MGA front shock. It came with unknown 
shock oil in it.  When I lift the arms (not attached to the knuckle), 
they drop slowly under their own weight.  Is this correct "stiffness".  
The replaced one and the other side existing shock do not do this.
-- 
e-mail signature Robert Guinness
1961 MGA 1600

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Jul  5 10:05:23 2012
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 11:05:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuilt front Shock
In-Reply-To: <4FF5B62D.8040000@stclegal.com>
References: <4FF5B62D.8040000@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <20120705160531.CBEA1F4402D@mx2.netinteraction.com>

At 10:43 AM 7/5/2012, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>I recently purchased a rebuilt MGA front shock. It came with unknown
>shock oil in it.  When I lift the arms (not attached to the knuckle),
>they drop slowly under their own weight.  Is this correct "stiffness".
>The replaced one and the other side existing shock do not do this.
++++++++++++++
Roger,
         The valve has a groove cut into it to allow the arms to move 
undampened. So that when you jack the car up the wheels will drop 
down, for instance. It is an unmetered passage and in no way is 
indicative of oil viscosity or the valve's performance.  You would 
have to move the shocks arm very quickly... several hundred RPMs to 
have any "feel" for the valving.  What you have sounds normal.

Peter C 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Jul  5 10:38:40 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 11:38:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuilt front Shock
In-Reply-To: <4FF5B62D.8040000@stclegal.com>
References: <4FF5B62D.8040000@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <201207051638.q65GcfKX021858@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

Robert,

If you suspect something is wrong with the part, the first place you 
should ask this question is with the vendor.  If they think it is a 
faulty part they may replace it immerdiatelym and ther may be no 
problem to diascuss.  If you don't like the vendor's answer, then it 
may be open for public discussion.

Functional units that I have had my hands on will keep the arm 
raised.  You have to push down very hard to go full travel in five 
seconds.  If the arm ever goes down by its own eright alone, it 
should probably take several minutes to go full travel.  I'm pretty 
sure they should never do that.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com



At 10:43 AM 7/5/2012 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>I recently purchased a rebuilt MGA front shock. It came with unknown 
>shock oil in it.  When I lift the arms (not attached to the 
>knuckle), they drop slowly under their own weight.  Is this correct 
>"stiffness".   The replaced one and the other side existing shock do 
>not do this.
>....

From RWidman at awv.com  Thu Jul  5 11:31:22 2012
From: RWidman at awv.com (Randy Widman)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 13:31:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 79 B Hand Brake Handle
Message-ID: <C7232AC979999C43A3285894C631A096DEB133@mtsrv-ex004.mestekcorp.com>

Hi,

My brake handle is breaking (splitting) right at the point where it touches
the pin sticking out by the ratchet plate. Has anyone ever repaired or
purchased a replacement handle? They are NLA from Moss. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Thanks,

Randy Widman

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 17:40:29 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 18:40:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] confessions of a LBC lover
Message-ID: <1B7C290E-B89C-44BB-A0D9-7A5E7F6C5F81@gmail.com>

We're out of town at my brothers this week And I drove his non-MG  lbc that
will remain nameless (ok, its a 1980 and  starts with a T and ends with a 7!).
Thing is I really like the  car. Always have.


Anyway, something strange is happening with the brakes.  He notice a little
clunking noise, that seemed to come from the front left.  Then a pulsing
coming from the brakes.

I drove it home, and didn't have the noise or the pulse on the first  braking.
However the next time it did make huge pulsing, almost like grinding, like
there was a chunk out of the rotor. Then we got on the highway for 3 miles
staying on the right, and probably not getting above 60. I costed down the
offramp and then the pulse was gone. And the mile and a half home on surface
roads, sill no pulsing or noise.  It's almost as if something was in the
brakes and fell out.

We don't have time tonight to pull the wheel tonight. I'm sure he'll get to it
soon though.

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Jul  5 18:06:14 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 17:06:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] confessions of a LBC lover
In-Reply-To: <1B7C290E-B89C-44BB-A0D9-7A5E7F6C5F81@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CC1B7A06.3C533%mvheim@sonic.net>

Hmm, this sort of thing happens with drum brakes, but it's hard to see how
something could get caught in a rotor. Could it have been the rear?



on 7/5/12 4:40 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> We're out of town at my brothers this week And I drove his non-MG  lbc that
> will remain nameless (ok, its a 1980 and  starts with a T and ends with a 7!).
> Thing is I really like the  car. Always have.
> 
> 
> Anyway, something strange is happening with the brakes.  He notice a little
> clunking noise, that seemed to come from the front left.  Then a pulsing
> coming from the brakes.
> 
> I drove it home, and didn't have the noise or the pulse on the first  braking.
> However the next time it did make huge pulsing, almost like grinding, like
> there was a chunk out of the rotor. Then we got on the highway for 3 miles
> staying on the right, and probably not getting above 60. I costed down the
> offramp and then the pulse was gone. And the mile and a half home on surface
> roads, sill no pulsing or noise.  It's almost as if something was in the
> brakes and fell out.
> 
> We don't have time tonight to pull the wheel tonight. I'm sure he'll get to it
> soon though.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 19:24:41 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 18:24:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] confessions of a LBC lover
In-Reply-To: <1B7C290E-B89C-44BB-A0D9-7A5E7F6C5F81@gmail.com>
References: <1B7C290E-B89C-44BB-A0D9-7A5E7F6C5F81@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2610F191-2FE3-495A-8964-B18635D94E40@gmail.com>

Was the pulsation in the steering wheel or the brake pedal?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2012, at 16:40, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> We're out of town at my brothers this week And I drove his non-MG  lbc that
> will remain nameless (ok, its a 1980 and  starts with a T and ends with a
7!).
> Thing is I really like the  car. Always have.
>
>
> Anyway, something strange is happening with the brakes.  He notice a little
> clunking noise, that seemed to come from the front left.  Then a pulsing
> coming from the brakes.
>
> I drove it home, and didn't have the noise or the pulse on the first
braking.
> However the next time it did make huge pulsing, almost like grinding, like
> there was a chunk out of the rotor. Then we got on the highway for 3 miles
> staying on the right, and probably not getting above 60. I costed down the
> offramp and then the pulse was gone. And the mile and a half home on
surface
> roads, sill no pulsing or noise.  It's almost as if something was in the
> brakes and fell out.
>
> We don't have time tonight to pull the wheel tonight. I'm sure he'll get to
it
> soon though.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 20:42:43 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:42:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] confessions of a LBC lover
In-Reply-To: <2610F191-2FE3-495A-8964-B18635D94E40@gmail.com>
References: <1B7C290E-B89C-44BB-A0D9-7A5E7F6C5F81@gmail.com>
	<2610F191-2FE3-495A-8964-B18635D94E40@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0AB537F9-6077-44D3-8BB6-0D368A2F9A32@gmail.com>

Actually, I felt it in both. More pronounced in the brakes.

On Jul 5, 2012, at 8:24 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:

> Was the pulsation in the steering wheel or the brake pedal?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 5, 2012, at 16:40, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> We're out of town at my brothers this week And I drove his non-MG  lbc
that
>> will remain nameless (ok, its a 1980 and  starts with a T and ends with a
7!).
>> Thing is I really like the  car. Always have.
>>
>>
>> Anyway, something strange is happening with the brakes.  He notice a
little
>> clunking noise, that seemed to come from the front left.  Then a pulsing
>> coming from the brakes.
>>
>> I drove it home, and didn't have the noise or the pulse on the first
braking.
>> However the next time it did make huge pulsing, almost like grinding, like
>> there was a chunk out of the rotor. Then we got on the highway for 3 miles
>> staying on the right, and probably not getting above 60. I costed down the
>> offramp and then the pulse was gone. And the mile and a half home on
surface
>> roads, sill no pulsing or noise.  It's almost as if something was in the
>> brakes and fell out.
>>
>> We don't have time tonight to pull the wheel tonight. I'm sure he'll get to
it
>> soon though.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 21:15:54 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 20:15:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] confessions of a LBC lover
In-Reply-To: <0AB537F9-6077-44D3-8BB6-0D368A2F9A32@gmail.com>
References: <1B7C290E-B89C-44BB-A0D9-7A5E7F6C5F81@gmail.com>
	<2610F191-2FE3-495A-8964-B18635D94E40@gmail.com>
	<0AB537F9-6077-44D3-8BB6-0D368A2F9A32@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E352146F-B5DC-4AD8-91CD-B84E94B4AAC3@gmail.com>

Look at the rears first then.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2012, at 19:42, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> Actually, I felt it in both. More pronounced in the brakes.
>
> On Jul 5, 2012, at 8:24 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
>
>> Was the pulsation in the steering wheel or the brake pedal?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 5, 2012, at 16:40, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> We're out of town at my brothers this week And I drove his non-MG  lbc
that
>>> will remain nameless (ok, its a 1980 and  starts with a T and ends with a
7!).
>>> Thing is I really like the  car. Always have.
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyway, something strange is happening with the brakes.  He notice a
little
>>> clunking noise, that seemed to come from the front left.  Then a pulsing
>>> coming from the brakes.
>>>
>>> I drove it home, and didn't have the noise or the pulse on the first
braking.
>>> However the next time it did make huge pulsing, almost like grinding,
like
>>> there was a chunk out of the rotor. Then we got on the highway for 3
miles
>>> staying on the right, and probably not getting above 60. I costed down
the
>>> offramp and then the pulse was gone. And the mile and a half home on
surface
>>> roads, sill no pulsing or noise.  It's almost as if something was in the
>>> brakes and fell out.
>>>
>>> We don't have time tonight to pull the wheel tonight. I'm sure he'll get
to it
>>> soon though.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 22:02:34 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 23:02:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] confessions of a LBC lover
In-Reply-To: <0AB537F9-6077-44D3-8BB6-0D368A2F9A32@gmail.com>
References: <1B7C290E-B89C-44BB-A0D9-7A5E7F6C5F81@gmail.com>
	<2610F191-2FE3-495A-8964-B18635D94E40@gmail.com>
	<0AB537F9-6077-44D3-8BB6-0D368A2F9A32@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <290A5F41-ECD2-440A-8CEB-F4A74D01098A@gmail.com>

We had 20 minutes here at 10:30 and found it.

The bolts attaching the brake rotor to the bearing carrier were loose.   That
could have been bad.


On Jul 5, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Paul Root wrote:

> Actually, I felt it in both. More pronounced in the brakes.
>
> On Jul 5, 2012, at 8:24 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
>
>> Was the pulsation in the steering wheel or the brake pedal?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 5, 2012, at 16:40, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> We're out of town at my brothers this week And I drove his non-MG  lbc
that
>>> will remain nameless (ok, its a 1980 and  starts with a T and ends with a
7!).
>>> Thing is I really like the  car. Always have.
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyway, something strange is happening with the brakes.  He notice a
little
>>> clunking noise, that seemed to come from the front left.  Then a pulsing
>>> coming from the brakes.
>>>
>>> I drove it home, and didn't have the noise or the pulse on the first
braking.
>>> However the next time it did make huge pulsing, almost like grinding,
like
>>> there was a chunk out of the rotor. Then we got on the highway for 3
miles
>>> staying on the right, and probably not getting above 60. I costed down
the
>>> offramp and then the pulse was gone. And the mile and a half home on
surface
>>> roads, sill no pulsing or noise.  It's almost as if something was in the
>>> brakes and fell out.
>>>
>>> We don't have time tonight to pull the wheel tonight. I'm sure he'll get
to it
>>> soon though.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Jul  6 08:44:52 2012
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2012 09:44:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: [Fot] Stolen Race Car
Message-ID: <20120706144500.EFBAE9A4862@mx2.netinteraction.com>

>  please be on the lookout for my stolen MG Midget
>  race car.  Car is a full race EMRA/SCCA car with a full cage and a 1275
>  engine. A distinguishing feature is an add on bar to the rear hoop for a
>  previous taller driver.  Car is yellow (or was!).  Also taken was my
>single axle trailer.  Trailer was green/aqua with a tire rack and
>storage box on the front.  The doors were taken off the storage shed and
>  both trailer and car were stolen.  Thanks in advance.
>
>Joe Downer
>Charlotte, N.C.
>800-332-2486

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  6 15:28:52 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 14:28:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: [Autojumble] Rover V8s in Montreal
In-Reply-To: <4FF74403.2030509@roverclub.org>
References: <4FF74403.2030509@roverclub.org>
Message-ID: <1341610132.48008.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

FYI....

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA


----- Forwarded Message -----
From:
Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org>
To: Autojumble at autox.team.net;
british-cars at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, July 6, 2012 4:01 PM
Subject:
[Autojumble] Rover V8s in Montreal
 
Just got off the phone with an old
acquaintance in Montreal who has to dispose of three Rovers -- he wants them
to go to good homes rather than send them to the crusher.  They are described
as a 1979 V8 with a 5-speed gearbox, a 1979 V8 automatic, and a 1971 (?)
2000TC.  One of the 1979 cars is fuel injected, the other has carburettors.
Please contact Paul Parfitt directly at 514-694-6644 if interested.

I'd think
there would be some interest in the v8 with the 5-speed, as these are quite
rare in N. America.

Cheers,

Bill Daddis
_______________________________________________

Autojumble at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/autojumble/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From racerbob70 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  6 16:02:58 2012
From: racerbob70 at yahoo.com (Bob Van Kirk)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 15:02:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Fwd: [Fot] Stolen Race Car
In-Reply-To: <1341597389.53412.YahooMailNeo@web160804.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <20120706144500.EFBAE9A4862@mx2.netinteraction.com>
	<001701cd5b9a$abc83b90$0358b2b0$@swbell.net>
	<1341597389.53412.YahooMailNeo@web160804.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1341612178.89610.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yes, Hagerty Ins.  Most home owners insurance will not cover unlicensed
vehicles or trailers.  Your auto insurance will only cover liability on your
trailer when hooked to your car.  Hagerty covers my race car and trailer with
all contents for loss or damage, including liability, even at the race track
in the paddock area, but once the car hits the racing surface you're on your
own.  I pay about $250 a year but depends mostly on the value of the insured
items.

________________________________
From: Edward Perez
<eap2140 at yahoo.com>
To: MARTIN COOPER <cooper6 at swbell.net>; 'Peter Caldwell'
<peter at nosimport.com>; "spridgets at autox.team.net" <spridgets at autox.team.net>;
"mgs at autox.team.net" <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, July 6, 2012 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Fwd: [Fot] Stolen Race Car

Is there insurance that
can help offset any loss in this type of situation? 
Just curious.  Would
homeowner's or auto cover the loss in any way?


Edward
Perez
Summerville, SC
78 Midget (1275)
Friday, July 06, 2012 9:45 AM
To: spridgets at autox.team.net;
mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spridgets] Fwd: [Fot] Stolen Race Car

>  please
be on the lookout
for my stolen MG Midget
>  race car.  Car is a full race
EMRA/SCCA car with a
full cage and a 
>1275
>  engine. A distinguishing
feature is an add on bar to
the rear hoop 
>for a
>  previous taller driver. 
Car is yellow (or was!). 
Also taken was my 
>single axle trailer.  Trailer
was green/aqua with a tire
rack and 
>storage box on the front.  The doors
were taken off the storage
:

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Fri Jul  6 16:06:12 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 17:06:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: [Fot] Stolen Race Car
In-Reply-To: <20120706144500.EFBAE9A4862@mx2.netinteraction.com>
References: <20120706144500.EFBAE9A4862@mx2.netinteraction.com>
Message-ID: <003301cd5bc3$8e622740$ab2675c0$@net>

I posted this to the Texas MG Register facebook page.
Chad Cooper


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Peter Caldwell
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 9:45 AM
To: spridgets at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: [Fot] Stolen Race Car

>  please be on the lookout for my stolen MG Midget
>  race car.  Car is a full race EMRA/SCCA car with a full cage and a 
>1275
>  engine. A distinguishing feature is an add on bar to the rear hoop 
>for a
>  previous taller driver.  Car is yellow (or was!).  Also taken was my 
>single axle trailer.  Trailer was green/aqua with a tire rack and 
>storage box on the front.  The doors were taken off the storage shed 
>and
>  both trailer and car were stolen.  Thanks in advance.
>
>Joe Downer
>Charlotte, N.C.
>800-332-2486
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net

From jevans at mydb3.com  Fri Jul  6 19:04:20 2012
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 20:04:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] mgb crankshaft part numbers
Message-ID: <1105.108.64.39.31.1341623060.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>

Looks like I may need a different crankshaft for my 1977 MGB, with an
"18V" engine.  I have a spare - origin unknown - stamped with these
numbers on one of the throws:  12H4198 on one and HH1 on another.  Also, a
very clear Leyland logo.  Can't seem to find an online listing of Leyland
engine part numbers...can anyone decipher this for me as to original
installation?
Jim Evans, Chicago
P.S. If you can answer the question asked, please do...otherwise, I have
no need for uninformed, shoot-from-the hip speculation or useless advice.

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Jul  7 14:19:05 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:19:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] hot idle troubles
Message-ID: <75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD@panix.com>

Now that the Winter that Would Not End has ended and Eastern Washington is
seeing close to normal temps, I'm seeing some trouble with my car's idle.

'75 MGB, retrofitted with SU HIF4 from a '73; carbs recently serviced by
Brooklands British of Tacoma to fix a vacuum leak in the throttle bushings.

Start up car, drive for 8 miles.  Every thing is good, traffic lights
irritating to driver, but car runs normally.
Stop to pick up some stuff.  Rest for a few minutes.
Get back in car, drive to end of block, reach stop sign, car dies.
.. car dies at all stops for the next few miles unless I give extra throttle.
Drive 8 miles back home, all is good again.
Stop for coffee.
Get back in car, car dies at intersections once again.

When it doesn't die, idle tickover is about 750rpm

Otherwise it is running strongly, temp gauge reads dead center normal (I
didn't confirm head temps with my infrared thermometer this time, but past
checks indicate this is about 190 degrees), oil pressure normal at around
30psi at idle (65-75psi at speed).

Is this something I just need to live with, or is there an easy fix that I'm
overlooking?

--
Aaron

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Jul  7 15:06:53 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2012 17:06:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] mgb crankshaft part numbers
Message-ID: <20120707170653.w8k7jn649o68ow00@webmail2.centurytel.net>

> Jim Evans, Chicago
> P.S. If you can answer the question asked, please do...otherwise, I have
> no need for uninformed, shoot-from-the hip speculation or useless advice. 

Oh the temptation is too much. Isn't the above what your 'delete' key is for?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

P.S. for some reason I lost all inclination to look up any numbers to 
post any sort of informed & useful advice... 

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Sat Jul  7 16:01:04 2012
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 18:01:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] hot idle troubles
In-Reply-To: <75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD@panix.com>
References: <75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD@panix.com>
Message-ID: <02a001cd5c8c$00fbef20$02f3cd60$@com>

I've had these symptoms in a Solex (non-MG) from trash in the gas.
If you pull the choke a little does it help? Not enough to get the idle
screws on one of the steps. This could mean you are too lean at idle, it
could be just a carb adjustment or trash in the carb.
Also with my HIF4s I idle closer to 850.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2012 4:19 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] hot idle troubles
Start up car, drive for 8 miles.  Every thing is good, traffic lights
irritating to driver, but car runs normally.
Stop to pick up some stuff.  Rest for a few minutes.
Get back in car, drive to end of block, reach stop sign, car dies.
.. car dies at all stops for the next few miles unless I give extra
throttle.
Drive 8 miles back home, all is good again.
Stop for coffee.
Get back in car, car dies at intersections once again.

When it doesn't die, idle tickover is about 750rpm

From don at napanet.net  Sat Jul  7 16:44:32 2012
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] mgb crankshaft part numbers
In-Reply-To: <20120707170653.w8k7jn649o68ow00@webmail2.centurytel.net>
References: <20120707170653.w8k7jn649o68ow00@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.695.1341700974.2453.mgs@autox.team.net>

When I first read the query, I thought the same thing.  A little tact 
goes a long ways, especially if one is asking for help!


At 02:06 PM 7/7/2012, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote:
>>Jim Evans, Chicago
>>P.S. If you can answer the question asked, please do...otherwise, I have
>>no need for uninformed, shoot-from-the hip speculation or useless advice.
>
>Oh the temptation is too much. Isn't the above what your 'delete' key is for?
>
>Eric Russell
>Mebane, NC
>
>P.S. for some reason I lost all inclination to look up any numbers 
>to post any sort of informed & useful advice... 
>_______________________________________________

From schultejim at msn.com  Sat Jul  7 17:07:40 2012
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte )
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 23:07:40 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] mgb crankshaft part numbers
Message-ID: <BAY157-ds97C22910B75EE7440E8CBDBED0@phx.gbl>

But I have lots of uninformed information so I just snorted until now.
Jim
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Don <don at napanet.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 22:44:32
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] mgb crankshaft part numbers


When I first read the query, I thought the same thing.  A little tact 
goes a
long ways, especially if one is asking for help!


At 02:06 PM 7/7/2012,
ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote:
>>Jim Evans, Chicago
>>P.S. If you can answer the
question asked, please do...otherwise, I have
>>no need for uninformed,
shoot-from-the hip speculation or useless advice.
>
>Oh the temptation is too
much. Isn't the above what your 'delete' key is for?
>
>Eric Russell
>Mebane,
NC
>
>P.S. for some reason I lost all inclination to look up any numbers 
>to
post any sort of informed & useful advice...
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/schultejim at msn.com

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sat Jul  7 17:52:01 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 16:52:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] hot idle troubles
In-Reply-To: <75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD@panix.com>
References: <75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD@panix.com>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyOR9i9x=LEDo3i1iSa1v5qK4tEjw6gha8pXuQ=NYphLQw@mail.gmail.com>

Maybe you still have a vacuum leak, but only when hot (something expands
and opens the leak). Or, are you driving with the choke out for the first 8
miles, thus masking the effects of the vacuum leak?

Simon

On Sat, Jul 7, 2012 at 1:19 PM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote:

> Now that the Winter that Would Not End has ended and Eastern Washington is
> seeing close to normal temps, I'm seeing some trouble with my car's idle.
>
> '75 MGB, retrofitted with SU HIF4 from a '73; carbs recently serviced by
> Brooklands British of Tacoma to fix a vacuum leak in the throttle bushings.
>
> Start up car, drive for 8 miles.  Every thing is good, traffic lights
> irritating to driver, but car runs normally.
> Stop to pick up some stuff.  Rest for a few minutes.
> Get back in car, drive to end of block, reach stop sign, car dies.
> .. car dies at all stops for the next few miles unless I give extra
> throttle.
> Drive 8 miles back home, all is good again.
> Stop for coffee.
> Get back in car, car dies at intersections once again.
>
> When it doesn't die, idle tickover is about 750rpm
>
> Otherwise it is running strongly, temp gauge reads dead center normal (I
> didn't confirm head temps with my infrared thermometer this time, but past
> checks indicate this is about 190 degrees), oil pressure normal at around
> 30psi at idle (65-75psi at speed).
>
> Is this something I just need to live with, or is there an easy fix that
> I'm
> overlooking?
>
> --
> Aaron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com

From nsippel at mindspring.com  Sun Jul  1 20:21:23 2012
From: nsippel at mindspring.com (Norm Sippel)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 22:21:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Car Memories Are Made of Times Like This
Message-ID: <01c501cd57f9$6236e390$26a4aab0$@com>

Here is a great video for all car lovers: http://www.wimp.com/dadscar/
 
Enjoy!
 
Norm Signature
Norm

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image003.jpg]

From nsippel at mindspring.com  Fri Jul  6 05:52:20 2012
From: nsippel at mindspring.com (Norm Sippel)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 07:52:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Not A Scare Warning!  Just Check Your Computer
Message-ID: <003001cd5b6d$d0182aa0$70487fe0$@com>

We have all received emails about viruses that are going to turn our
computers into puddles of plastic & metal.  But, this one is common sense
info.  Shelly Palmer sent this around today.  And, with a potential of only
64,000 infected computers in the US, the chances of yours being one of them
is slim to none.  So, DON'T PANIC!
 
Just open this link
http://www.bgr.com/2012/07/05/dnschanger-malware-computers-offline-july-9/
and go to the  <http://www.dns-ok.us/> DNS Changer Check-Up website.  It
will check your computer's system for this malware.
 
BTW, if you don't have malware installed & regularly update & use it, go to
CNET.com & download Malwarebytes.  It's free and highly recommended.
 
Have a wonderful Friday.
 
Norm

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Jul  8 07:24:03 2012
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 06:24:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] hot idle troubles
In-Reply-To: <CAEUYfyOR9i9x=LEDo3i1iSa1v5qK4tEjw6gha8pXuQ=NYphLQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD@panix.com>
	<CAEUYfyOR9i9x=LEDo3i1iSa1v5qK4tEjw6gha8pXuQ=NYphLQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A3402DD-69C9-4C56-95BE-54618C6D1C92@panix.com>

On Jul 7, 2012, at 4:52 PM, Simon Matthews wrote:

> Maybe you still have a vacuum leak, but only when hot (something expands and
opens the leak). Or, are you driving with the choke out for the first 8 miles,
thus masking the effects of the vacuum leak?

I'll certainly look into it.  The mixture could be rich too, I recently leaned
it out when a guy on a bike complained my car smelled of unburnt gasoline.
The plugs look fine.  It was also suggested I check fuel pumps and filters,
though I don't have a problem with cutting out under load, so I don't suspect
that.

To answer Don's question from another email: yes, I have to use the choke when
the engine is cold, even in 83 degrees.  I don't have to keep it on for more
than a few seconds, but the car won't start without some choke.


Just to be clear, I want to reiterate: the problem only occurs when I drive
the car long enough to get it warmed up properly, then park it.  For the first
few minutes, the car will not idle at stops.  If I drive far enough, the
problem goes away until I again park and restart.

If the car is parked long enough to cool, I have no problems.  If I haven't
recently parked the car (and turned it off!), I have no problems.  If the
ambient is below 80F, then the problem changes: instead of just quitting, the
engine tickover drops to 500rpm.  After a quarter mile, all is normal at the
next stop sign.

In all cases, the choke is fully disengaged as the car is warmed up.  If I
press on the throttle while stopped, the problem is mitigated, but my lead
foot has a hard time maintaining just enough throttle to keep it going, while
staying under 1000rpm at the stoplight.

It could honestly be as simple as "set the idle to 850 rather than 750 and
forget it," but before I did that, I wanted to get other suggestions.

--
Aaron

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun Jul  8 08:49:44 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 15:49:44 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] hot idle troubles
References: <75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD@panix.com>
Message-ID: <25AF65DEC85643E3A62C2CAEB7CCCAE1@paul>

The HIF is usually less prone to variations cause by heat that the HS 
because of the temperature compensated jets.  Check the butterflies aren't 
hanging on the throttle cable when cold, when that expands to heat soak 
while stopped it could be closing them a bit, the heat soak dissipates as 
you drive.  There should always be a little play in the cable with the 
throttle pedal released.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Stop to pick up some stuff.  Rest for a few minutes.
> Get back in car, drive to end of block, reach stop sign, car dies.
> .. car dies at all stops for the next few miles unless I give extra 
> throttle.

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sun Jul  8 16:57:06 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2012 17:57:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 62, Issue 6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15.1341770403.6954.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1341770403.6954.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4FFA1042.4020106@comcast.net>

Aaron,

I have to agree with Paul about the HIFs being self adapting. I seem to 
remember the manual mentioning a 1/32" gap between the choke spindle and 
the throttle stop arm on the throttle spindle and I tend to leave that 
much play with any carb to be sure the throttle plates are seating where 
they should be.

Also, you didn't mention whether you adjusted the valves lately. That 
can also change with heat. Should be .015 cold, .013 hot. These engines 
will take a fairly large amount of leeway, but you do need to be sure 
they're all at least closing and opening near where they should be.

You did put a heatshield in there didn't you?

Last, I'd set your idle at 850 - 900 minimum. When the factory said 750 
they were using very different fuel.

My two cents.

Glenn

On 7/8/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:19:05 -0700
> From: Aaron Whiteman<awhitema at panix.com>
> To: MG List<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] hot idle troubles
> Message-ID:<75F1992C-52A8-453A-88E7-B8A2BAC377BD at panix.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Now that the Winter that Would Not End has ended and Eastern Washington is
> seeing close to normal temps, I'm seeing some trouble with my car's idle.
>
> '75 MGB, retrofitted with SU HIF4 from a '73; carbs recently serviced by
> Brooklands British of Tacoma to fix a vacuum leak in the throttle bushings.
>
> Start up car, drive for 8 miles.  Every thing is good, traffic lights
> irritating to driver, but car runs normally.
> Stop to pick up some stuff.  Rest for a few minutes.
> Get back in car, drive to end of block, reach stop sign, car dies.
> .. car dies at all stops for the next few miles unless I give extra throttle.
> Drive 8 miles back home, all is good again.
> Stop for coffee.
> Get back in car, car dies at intersections once again.

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jul 10 01:40:34 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 02:40:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB F/S <G> !
Message-ID: <4FFBDC72.1030203@justbrits.com>

What we have here:

http://www.oldride.com/sports_cars/429927.html

is a "true" "winner" ! ! !

Enjoy !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Tue Jul 10 17:11:11 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 18:11:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB F/S <G> !
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-eht6mtKboO3F3OwqR92tqx0pC5oDLw4wBwymcBwZ6GDA@mail.gmail.com>

I wish I could lie as nicely as the writer. When was AC a factory option?
Not installed? Then whoever removed it had better have sealed the
components, because it is now worthless.

Thanks Ed for the laugh.

Jack

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Tue Jul 10 17:40:16 2012
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 18:40:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB F/S <G> !
In-Reply-To: <4FFBDC72.1030203@justbrits.com>
References: <4FFBDC72.1030203@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <77C7736378B8421082E757497A0BB09C@YOURF3E40984A8>

Wahooo! A Varitone MGB! With rubber bumpers, no less! The factory would have
done it if only someone would have thought of it.

The accompanying text alone is worth the price of admission.

David


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Subject: [Mgs] MGB F/S <G> !

What we have here:

http://www.oldride.com/sports_cars/429927.html

is a "true" "winner" ! ! !

Enjoy !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Jul 10 20:10:55 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 19:10:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB F/S <G> !
In-Reply-To: <77C7736378B8421082E757497A0BB09C@YOURF3E40984A8>
References: <4FFBDC72.1030203@justbrits.com>
	<77C7736378B8421082E757497A0BB09C@YOURF3E40984A8>
Message-ID: <D4E3C7DF-F30E-4FC9-ACCF-77057BA6311B@gmail.com>

I think I can safely say this ad is the first time any one has ever described
a RRB design as:  " The taut bodywork is an evolutionary design that by 1977
had grown the large rubber front bumper/grille assembly, giving it a more
aggressive look that was pure 1970s cool."

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 10, 2012, at 16:40, "David F. Darby" <ddarby at centurytel.net> wrote:

> Wahooo! A Varitone MGB! With rubber bumpers, no less! The factory would
have
> done it if only someone would have thought of it.
>
> The accompanying text alone is worth the price of admission.
>
> David
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Subject: [Mgs] MGB F/S <G> !
>
> What we have here:
>
> http://www.oldride.com/sports_cars/429927.html
>
> is a "true" "winner" ! ! !
>
> Enjoy !
>
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Tue Jul 10 20:36:24 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 21:36:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB F/S <G> !
In-Reply-To: <52BD3353-83ED-4EEB-A1B1-D42AF6A468AF@ghs.com.au>
References: <CAGhWe-eht6mtKboO3F3OwqR92tqx0pC5oDLw4wBwymcBwZ6GDA@mail.gmail.com>
	<52BD3353-83ED-4EEB-A1B1-D42AF6A468AF@ghs.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-cT7_GxyMkb4-UrgMU5y4KaLe3OfNbFyU-XHRSOYV0v2A@mail.gmail.com>

True or not, it is one slick, overblown presentation of the car. I wish I
could write like that.

Jack

On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 9:13 PM, Murray Arundell <arundell at ghs.com.au>wrote:

> Before we all start laughing, It was an option on the very last cars......
> There is one such car in Aus.  When I saw it some years ago at a Concours
> it still had its build stickers and tags. Nearly zero miles on the clock
> and very definitely airconditioning.
>
> On 11/07/2012, at 9:11 AM, Jack Feldman wrote:
>
> > I wish I could lie as nicely as the writer. When was AC a factory option?
> > Not installed? Then whoever removed it had better have sealed the
> > components, because it is now worthless.
> >
> > Thanks Ed for the laugh.
> >
> > Jack
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Wed Jul 11 17:03:34 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:03:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Visor and windshield center rod rivets
Message-ID: <EF5A0863-F3E1-4633-87FC-C29ED10D58F1@aol.com>

I took off the top rail of the windshield to replace those little rubber
blocks that keep the visor in place. (didn't want to drill through the glass
accidentally or have the drill slip).  The rivets are not like what I'm
familiar with...  Usually there is room behind the rivet for the end to
mushroom when the center stalk is pulled through.  These rivets are pretty
much flush from behind because the windshield gasket is right there.   Is
there a special name for this type of rivet?

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Jul 12 00:45:50 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 07:45:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Visor and windshield center rod rivets
References: <EF5A0863-F3E1-4633-87FC-C29ED10D58F1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1FCA772635A4ADDA28B7B1E890DE5D4@paul>

Short of an OE rivet if there's not enough room for the rubber to deform by 
the amount of the mushroom of a replacement then I'd be seeing whether there 
was scope to drill out the hole a little from the back so at least part of 
the mushroom sat in that.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  Usually there is room behind the rivet for the end to
> mushroom when the center stalk is pulled through.  These rivets are pretty
> much flush from behind because the windshield gasket is right there. 

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jul 12 11:43:24 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 17:43:24 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Visor and windshield center rod rivets
Message-ID: <20120712.134324.1671.1@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

  I used a "Pop" brand rivet to replace mine. Inserted it from the front (the
nail pointed toward the radiator), put the rivet through metal and rubber, put
a snug-fitting small washer over the end of the rivet, then pulled it tight.
The washer is inside the rubber, as is the mushroom.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: John Elwood <mgmagnette at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Visor and windshield center rod rivets
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:03:34 -0400

I took off the top rail of the windshield to replace those little rubber
blocks that keep the visor in place. (didn't want to drill through the glass
accidentally or have the drill slip).  The rivets are not like what I'm
familiar with...  Usually there is room behind the rivet for the end to
mushroom when the center stalk is pulled through.  These rivets are pretty
much flush from behind because the windshield gasket is right there.   Is
there a special name for this type of rivet?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From palte at gmx.net  Sun Jul 15 04:09:30 2012
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 12:09:30 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Flyer featuring an MGA on the cover.
Message-ID: <20120715100930.70230@gmx.net>

Hi fellow listers,

When passing through the Swedish town of VC$rnamo I found 
a local flyer, featuring an MGA on the cover.

Thought I'd share this with you.

Bert
 

http://www.mymap.se/produkter/pdf/varnamo-guide.pdf

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 17 09:19:44 2012
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 11:19:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Steering Lock & Ignition Switch
Message-ID: <AEAA8CD600EB4DF2B0F149C8A597C2BF@frankdcczr6l6k>

I need to replace the ignition switch on my 1980 MGB LE and would like some
advice from anyone who has made this change. The prices vary from Moss (part
#263-640 for $129.95) to LBC ($110.95) to Northwest Import Parts (part #BHM
7143 for $119). Moss indicates that you need to alter your harness to fit
theirs if I read their catalogue correctly while Northwest indicates theirs is
an exact fit like the original.  I assume the LBC  switch comes from Moss and
would also require alteration of the harness.  I would appreciate hearing from
anyone who installed this switch from any of these vendors.
The reason for replacement is that the original one in my car has been giving
me issues for some time and almost stranded me last Sunday.  The key becomes
difficult to turn on or off despite my frequent application of lube and
graphite.
The MGOC has the best price but they informed me that their switch fits RHD
drive cars only. I find it odd that Leyland made a different switch for RHD
and LHD cars.
Thanks in advance.
Frank Krajewski

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Jul 17 12:21:45 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:21:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Steering Lock & Ignition Switch
References: <AEAA8CD600EB4DF2B0F149C8A597C2BF@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <9D4C2097F50E49178F9B61FD42BBC83A@paul>

Is it the switch or is it the lock?  Sounds more like the latter.  You 
should be able to remove the switch from the lock and see, which may help 
your decision.    The RHD and LHD switches were quite different as the 
latter has extra contacts for the anti-runon valve and 'key in, door open' 
warning circuit.  The former at least can be replicated with a relay, it 
seems to me that for $9 you can get the correct one, as opposed to a bodge.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I need to replace the ignition switch on my 1980 MGB LE and would like some
> advice from anyone who has made this change. The prices vary from Moss 
> (part
> #263-640 for $129.95) to LBC ($110.95) to Northwest Import Parts (part 
> #BHM
> 7143 for $119). 

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 19 15:10:49 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 16:10:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] sad story
Message-ID: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>

A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The price was
really good b that should have been my first clue.  He showed  a picture of
the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my second clue.



I did a buy it now, and then asked him if I could have the driveshaft and
overdrive switch as well, to which he agreed, for an additional $65.  Weeks
went by, and finally the tranny (only the tranny) arrived.  he claimed the
driveshaft was the short shaft, part of the tranny, and that it was included.
Lots of email back and forth, and ultimately a complaint on my part to paypal,
since that was outside of the ebay sale.  To which he finally agreend to
return my money, only he sent me the money, not as a refund, so I lost the fee
paypal charges.



The transmission, which was advertised as rebuit 500 miles ago, was not.  the
input shaft was wobbly, and my British car mechanic, who certainly knows
these, said there was no way it had been rebuilt in the last 500 miles.  So I
complained to him, and he offered to return my money if I sent back the
transmission.  I felt he had totally lied to me, and I didnbt trust him, so
I complained to ebay.  They opened a case, and agreed to refund only my
initial money, if I returned the transmission with a confirmation of delivery.
So I did.



Then I discovered that ebay considers confirmation of delivery valid ONLY if
there is a signature.  Which we didnbt have.  So ebay welched, this guy
welched, and Ibm out $550 for the initial deal and another $150 for
shipping.  And a few bucks for the paypal mishap.



The ebay item is: 330744461508



The guys addresses are:

address on invoice is:

DB Business Holdings

372 E Third Street

Corning, N.Y. 14830



address on crate is:

Jason Doughty

2475 Brown Hollow Road

Corning, N.Y. 14830

607-346-3605



And the guys email address is dbbizholdings at gmail.com



His ebay id is db_vintageas



If you google DB Business Holdings you will see it is more of a
shipping/warehouse company.



I now see he has relisted it and will rip off someone else.



DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS GUY!!!!!

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 19 20:46:28 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 21:46:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local><CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com><D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
	<CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <37E77316251142E4A3CB51FBA75383C5@ranteer.local>

address on invoice is:

DB Business Holdings

372 E Third Street

Corning, N.Y. 14830



address on crate is:

Jason Doughty

2475 Brown Hollow Road

Corning, N.Y. 14830

607-346-3605



And the guys email address is dbbizholdings at gmail.com


From: Wbeech
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 8:59 PM
To: 'Chris Simo'
Cc: 'Dave' ; mgs at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'Geo Hahn'
Subject: RE: [TR] sad story

I'm very in, anyone have a good contact phone or email address?

Bill

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 19 21:11:12 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 22:11:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local><CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com><D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
	<CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1FF184B501DC4941A1533E09127C60A5@ranteer.local>

sorry.  misread.  ebay phone # is 866-877-3229.  they will ask for a code;
just ignore that.  when I called, I had a code.

you have to go through a lot of steps to get that code.  I think you can call
without one but I have not done that so I cannot say for sure.



From: Wbeech
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 8:59 PM
To: 'Chris Simo'
Cc: 'Dave' ; mgs at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'Geo Hahn'
Subject: RE: [TR] sad story

I'm very in, anyone have a good contact phone or email address?

Bill

From difejo at optonline.net  Sun Jul 22 05:50:21 2012
From: difejo at optonline.net (John Di Fede)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2012 07:50:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1973 Brake system pressure warning switch
Message-ID: <A6EEEC621F3846C8AFC061A5EA442438@GATEWAY>

Hello all,

 

The pressure failure system body in my 1973 needs to be rebuilt.  This is
the piece where all of the brake lines connect before heading out to the
wheels.  The seals within the body are leaking and I need to remove the
internals to replace the seals.  I have soaked the unit in solvent and used
compressed air in an attempt to remove the internal seals and the switch
triggering rod.  

 

 Has anyone had this problem?  

 

 

Thanks

 

John Di Fede 

 

1973 Rdstr

From philip.s.jones at comcast.net  Mon Jul 23 00:15:39 2012
From: philip.s.jones at comcast.net (Philip Jones)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2012 23:15:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 1973 Brake system pressure warning switch
Message-ID: <00db01cd689a$95238e00$bf6aaa00$@comcast.net>

Hi John.  

I don't think that I'm really qualified to be helpful . . . but I was not
under the impression that these can be rebuilt!  I don't know too much about
the innards, but I understand that there's a "shuttle" (maybe that's the rod
that you are referring to) that moves back and (or) forth based on which
brake circuit loses pressure.  My impression was that the shuttle was
"captive".  I didn't think that there were internal seals - I thought all
the sealing was done via the pipe threads connecting to brake lines to the
unit.  I have also heard that the replacement switches are of dubious
quality.

 

I ponied up and bought a new replacement assembly for my '71 Midget - it's
been serving perfectly well, but I'm sure you've seen the prices!

 

I look forward to learning more via your experience.  J  I bet that Paul
Hunt will provide useful information - he's a gem that way.

 

Good luck!

 

Phil

 

Message: 1

Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2012 07:50:21 -0400

From: John Di Fede <difejo at optonline.net>

To: mgs at autox.team.net

Subject: [Mgs] 1973 Brake system pressure warning switch

Message-ID: <A6EEEC621F3846C8AFC061A5EA442438 at GATEWAY>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

 

Hello all,

The pressure failure system body in my 1973 needs to be rebuilt.  This is
the piece where all of the brake lines connect before heading out to the
wheels.  The seals within the body are leaking and I need to remove the
internals to replace the seals.  I have soaked the unit in solvent and used
compressed air in an attempt to remove the internal seals and the switch
triggering rod.  

 Has anyone had this problem?  

Thanks

John Di Fede 

1973 Rdstr

 

 

------------------------------

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Mon Jul 23 06:11:23 2012
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 08:11:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1973 Brake system pressure warning switch
In-Reply-To: <00db01cd689a$95238e00$bf6aaa00$@comcast.net>
References: <00db01cd689a$95238e00$bf6aaa00$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <01b601cd68cc$471ea460$d55bed20$@com>

It's been a number of years ago but I did get a rebuild kit and new switch.
In fact, since only one vendor had the switch I bout two just in case. No
problems with the rebuild, but I didn't have any problems getting it apart.
The only thing I can recommend is more soaking, block off the two front and
one rear ports as well as where the switch was and try your air pressure. I
don't generally recommend air pressure on stuff like this due to flying
parts that then disappear, but sometimes drastic measures may be required.

You are sure ALL the switch parts came out aren't you? If the switch plunger
is stuck in the shuttle that could hold it in.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Philip Jones
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 2:16 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] 1973 Brake system pressure warning switch

Hi John.  

I don't think that I'm really qualified to be helpful . . . but I was not
under the impression that these can be rebuilt!  I don't know too much about
the innards, but I understand that there's a "shuttle" (maybe that's the rod
that you are referring to) that moves back and (or) forth based on which
brake circuit loses pressure.  My impression was that the shuttle was
"captive".  I didn't think that there were internal seals - I thought all
the sealing was done via the pipe threads connecting to brake lines to the
unit.  I have also heard that the replacement switches are of dubious
quality.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Jul 25 10:47:35 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 11:47:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ELECTRICAL SAGA Part 1 of 3
Message-ID: <50102327.10903@wi.net>

Hi all,

As the subject says I've divided this tome into 3 parts in deference to 
Mark's overworked servers.  The lists are pretty quiet and I thought I 
share a long running problem I had with our '59 MGA 1500.
This pertains to most LBC's so both of my lists get inundated.  Feel 
free to not read, hit delete or pass it on.   Try to guess what the 
problem is(was...I hope!)  Me, I'm celebrating!  Here goes:

Electrical Saga

PART 1

This may give the list something to think about when you're having 
similar problems (note: I said "when" not if ;-)).

The MGA is still running 2 six volt batteries and positive ground.I like 
it like that.I may make changes in future but for now we're OK...I 
think.One just has to realize that our cars operate(d) on a minimally 
adequate electrical charging system.It is a bit comforting to know that 
if the car has a generator(dynamo) and your battery is dead, the car 
runs off the generator (once it's started).If the car has an alternator 
and the battery gets low or a cable gets disconnected, the engine quits.

Anyway, MG has been sitting for a season and a half with a perplexing 
problem.A bit of condensed history here:

Control box cut out didn't cutout one day after a long drive. 15 minutes 
after shutting down my wife says, "is that smoke?"Bless her!By the time 
I pushed the car out of the garage (garage under house), pulled the 
top(hood) out of the way, uncovered the batteries, and disconnected the 
positive terminal the wiring loom was gone back to the control box 
(voltage regulator and cutout were toast).That was exciting.The car now 
has a battery disconnect switch behind the seat!

Installed new wiring harness, control box (2 new reprods from Holden), 
new armature and away we drove for...6 weeks.No-charge light glowing 
brightly.Now what?

Any guesses?

Dave W.
59 :{)
59MGA 1500
Burlington WI

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Wed Jul 25 11:25:05 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 13:25:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Front subframe mounting pads
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWPmenDud2Tao4w83g7xJXOpQny7um=z7Cpx-gEEpsFxpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Shortly after replacing the front brake pads and all four tires on my
1980 MGB I found that the car would pull to the right whenever I
applied the brakes at speeds higher than 50 mph.  At about the same
time I noticed a distinct "clunk" whenever I went over a bump or when
I let up on the brakes after a slow speed stop.  I spent nearly two
years trying to chase down this problem.  Finally, when I had the car
up on the lift to do an oil change a few weeks ago, noticed that one
of the mounting pads for the front subframe was loose.  When I went to
replace the pads with new ones, I ran into a couple of minor issues:

1.  Based on the Moss part number and the drawings in my shop manual,
the upper pad is supposed have a part which is shaped to fit into the
hole in the subframe while the lower pad is completely flat.  Although
they were quite worn, the lower pads on my car clearly showed that
they had the raised section which fit into the hole in the subframe.
I did not want to remove the entire subframe so I did not check the
upper pads, but I could not see any evidence of rubber from the upper
pad extending into the holes.  In any event, I installed the pads
which Moss had labeled as "upper" in the lower position.

2.  After I installed the two new pads, I could see that they were
still loose, so I added the old pads between the new ones and the
plate to take up the slack.  The double ended bolt which secures the
subframe has an unthreaded section which is too wide for the plate,
and thus limits how much you can compress the rubber pads.

In any event, replacing these pads cured both the "clunk" and the
pulling-to-the-right problem.  Apparently, there was enough slack in
the whole mounting system that when I applied the brakes the subframe
was turning slightly causing the car to swerve in that direction.  I
have owned this car for 21 years and it only had 38k miles on it when
I bought it. I have never removed the front subframe and I don't
believe that either of the previous owners would have had reason to do
so, so I believe that my car was shipped from the factory with the
mounting pads reversed.  Either that, or Moss and my shop manual are
wrong.

I hope this will save someone else a bit of trouble.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Jul 25 12:38:53 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 13:38:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Saga Part 2 of 3
Message-ID: <50103D3D.5080002@wi.net>

PART 2

Long story short, if you're still with me, I suspected the 
generator.Took it to two different shops and saw that it was cranking 
out a 'massive' 17 volts.(not bad)With the generator checking out OK, I 
looked at the control box and the cutout points were gone...I mean 
burned away so thin you could hardly see any surface.OK, time to call 
Barney Gaylord (I had already emailed and downloaded everything 
pertinent from his web site: http://mgaguru.com) and he told me about 
the very "soft" points on the reprod control boxes.I had a second box 
and put that in and still no charge from the generator. Hmmmm.

I wasn't going to trust the new control bow anyway so I had a solid 
state unit fitted into the case of the original control box by Bob 
Jeffers of Wilton Auto Electrics, http://www.wiltonae.com

Installed the new solid state box and away we went ...... for 1 
week....no charge light again.OK, now I'm getting a bit disgruntled.So I 
checked, removed, cleaned, and Kopr-Shield every earth(ground) 
connection. Time to call Bob. Through emails and the phone Bob and I ran 
some tests and we concluded the generator was the culprit.I went over 
everything and found......I installed the brushes in their cages 90* off 
and they wouldn't contact the commutator.Yay!Wrong..no joy.

??????!!

Almost done!

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Jul 25 13:25:54 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 14:25:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Saga part 3 of 3
Message-ID: <50104842.7090806@wi.net>

PART 3

After having the generator checked at the two shops again and declared 
working, I ran tests on the car and was getting very low readings, like 
2.1 v @ 1800 rpms.Worked in the shop but not on the car.

I called, my now good friend Rick Ewald, who sat down in a grocery store 
with a cup of coffee for an hour (many thanks to your wife for being 
patient!) and we ran a bunch of tests over the phone.No success but(!) 
Rick, even though I had the generator apart several times I dismantled 
it again.No, the through-bolts were not grounding out the field. But...

Remember what started all this?Because the cutout stayed closed, that 
allowed battery voltage to the generator which then tried to be a motor 
but couldn't turn because the fan belt prevented the pulley from turning 
so it got hot and threw solder and MELTED the harness.

I thought I'd look inside the generator one last time.Looking carefully 
at the end plate I noticed the nylon insulation around the "D" terminal 
was melted and I could wiggle the terminal which caused the brush cage 
to wiggle.It was very close to grounding fully to the case. Wow, didn't 
think of that.Another tidbit to file away in the memory bank (read: 
computer; my personal memory bank can no longer be trusted...A.D.D. can 
be...Oh, look! A Toad...a problem.).

I took the end plate to Jeff Johnson at Alstar Company Inc. in Hales 
Corners, WI (414.427.7991) who made some new insulators (I could have 
done it but was leaving for a week).It looks original and cranked out 
19.2v on startup @1800 rpms.Light is out, comes on when at idle, 
flickers as revs increase and goes out around 1200-1400 rpms. Standing 
voltage and running voltage under load all check out at ~12.4v.Next is a 
test drive but that will have to wait until I return from Alaska (No 
Barney, I'm not driving it to Alaska!).

So many thanks to all who helped:Barney Gaylord, Rick Ewald, Don Zubrod, 
Dave Spearing, Jeff Johnson, John (at Maxim Rebuilders in Burlington WI 
262.763.9441) and everyone else whose ear I gnawed on getting scraps of 
info.

Hope you never run into this problem!Fingers crossed.  "One never knows 
the depth of the well by the length of the handle on the pump"...my 
Father always said this.


/Safety Fast!/


Dave W
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Burlington WI

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Jul 25 13:59:05 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 12:59:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Saga part 3 of 3
In-Reply-To: <50104842.7090806@wi.net>
Message-ID: <CC359E19.3D1B6%mvheim@sonic.net>

A classic illustration of the maxim "just because you found a problem, that
doesn't mean it's the only problem".

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/25/12 12:25 PM, dwoerpel at dwoerpel at wi.net wrote:

> PART 3
> 
> After having the generator checked at the two shops again and declared
> working, I ran tests on the car and was getting very low readings, like
> 2.1 v @ 1800 rpms.Worked in the shop but not on the car.
> 
> I called, my now good friend Rick Ewald, who sat down in a grocery store
> with a cup of coffee for an hour (many thanks to your wife for being
> patient!) and we ran a bunch of tests over the phone.No success but(!)
> Rick, even though I had the generator apart several times I dismantled
> it again.No, the through-bolts were not grounding out the field. But...
> 
> Remember what started all this?Because the cutout stayed closed, that
> allowed battery voltage to the generator which then tried to be a motor
> but couldn't turn because the fan belt prevented the pulley from turning
> so it got hot and threw solder and MELTED the harness.
> 
> I thought I'd look inside the generator one last time.Looking carefully
> at the end plate I noticed the nylon insulation around the "D" terminal
> was melted and I could wiggle the terminal which caused the brush cage
> to wiggle.It was very close to grounding fully to the case. Wow, didn't
> think of that.Another tidbit to file away in the memory bank (read:
> computer; my personal memory bank can no longer be trusted...A.D.D. can
> be...Oh, look! A Toad...a problem.).
> 
> I took the end plate to Jeff Johnson at Alstar Company Inc. in Hales
> Corners, WI (414.427.7991) who made some new insulators (I could have
> done it but was leaving for a week).It looks original and cranked out
> 19.2v on startup @1800 rpms.Light is out, comes on when at idle,
> flickers as revs increase and goes out around 1200-1400 rpms. Standing
> voltage and running voltage under load all check out at ~12.4v.Next is a
> test drive but that will have to wait until I return from Alaska (No
> Barney, I'm not driving it to Alaska!).
> 
> So many thanks to all who helped:Barney Gaylord, Rick Ewald, Don Zubrod,
> Dave Spearing, Jeff Johnson, John (at Maxim Rebuilders in Burlington WI
> 262.763.9441) and everyone else whose ear I gnawed on getting scraps of
> info.
> 
> Hope you never run into this problem!Fingers crossed.  "One never knows
> the depth of the well by the length of the handle on the pump"...my
> Father always said this.
> 
> 
> /Safety Fast!/
> 
> 
> Dave W
> 59 :{)
> 59 MGA 1500
> Burlington WI

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Jul 25 15:42:54 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 16:42:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 997 Mini Cooper Pistons
Message-ID: <5010685E.7040800@wi.net>

A friend of mine has 4 "still in the box" pistons for sale.  Info:

Plain box with writing:  12A212 Type 9F  997cc  Bore 2.457"(standard 
according to Wikipedia and some Mini books)

Piston markings:  MOWOG,  3 inside diamond,  K37

Pistons are slightly concave and have 4 rings: 1-top, 2 compression, 1 oil.

3 are still wrapped in the oil/waxed "paper".  The 4th is unwrapped and 
its top ring is broken.

Price: best offer

If interested contact:  262.642.5465

If there's no interest he'll probably put them on Craig's.


BTW, I found this on Wikipedia, can't verify accuracy and most of you 
have probably seen it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMC_A-Series_engine

Dave W.  (nfi, just helping a friend)

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Jul 25 15:46:05 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 16:46:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A + engines
Message-ID: <5010691D.3050502@wi.net>

After reading the Wikipedia article on A series engines I wondering what 
the difference is between the A and the A+ engines.
I don't have a Vizard with me and rely upon you to enlighten me.

Curious in Burlington

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Wed Jul 25 20:33:47 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 22:33:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] A + engines
In-Reply-To: <5010691D.3050502@wi.net>
References: <5010691D.3050502@wi.net>
Message-ID: <584BE77E-F02F-4504-AA86-3B7D88EC37CA@aol.com>

Here's a good link....

http://www.dummett.net/ime/website/ime/a/about%20A%20plus_engines.html

In addition to what it says, I understand that it is metric.

-John

On Jul 25, 2012, at 5:46 PM, dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net> wrote:

> After reading the Wikipedia article on A series engines I wondering what the
difference is between the A and the A+ engines.
> I don't have a Vizard with me and rely upon you to enlighten me.
>
> Curious in Burlington
> _______________________________________________

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jul 25 23:27:48 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 00:27:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A + engines
In-Reply-To: <584BE77E-F02F-4504-AA86-3B7D88EC37CA@aol.com>
References: <5010691D.3050502@wi.net>
	<584BE77E-F02F-4504-AA86-3B7D88EC37CA@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5010D554.1070007@justbrits.com>

<< On 7/25/2012 9:33 PM, John Elwood wrote:

In addition to what it says, I understand that it is metric. >>

Where do you get that, John ? ? ?  Sure make working on them difficult ! !

And make the interchanging of parts (now on-going TTBOMK) 'impossible 
? ! ?

Ed

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Jul 26 03:51:38 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 04:51:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Saga part 3 of 3
In-Reply-To: <CC359E19.3D1B6%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CC359E19.3D1B6%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <5011132A.7090205@ktc.com>

Sounds to me like you could have saved no end of trouble at the 
beginning by replacing the entire generator instead of just the armature.

CR
On 7/25/2012 2:59 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> A classic illustration of the maxim "just because you found a problem, that
> doesn't mean it's the only problem".
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 7/25/12 12:25 PM, dwoerpel at dwoerpel at wi.net wrote:
>
>> PART 3
>>
>> After having the generator checked at the two shops again and declared
>> working, I ran tests on the car and was getting very low readings, like
>> 2.1 v @ 1800 rpms.Worked in the shop but not on the car.
>>
>> I called, my now good friend Rick Ewald, who sat down in a grocery store
>> with a cup of coffee for an hour (many thanks to your wife for being
>> patient!) and we ran a bunch of tests over the phone.No success but(!)
>> Rick, even though I had the generator apart several times I dismantled
>> it again.No, the through-bolts were not grounding out the field. But...
>>
>> Remember what started all this?Because the cutout stayed closed, that
>> allowed battery voltage to the generator which then tried to be a motor
>> but couldn't turn because the fan belt prevented the pulley from turning
>> so it got hot and threw solder and MELTED the harness.
>>
>> I thought I'd look inside the generator one last time.Looking carefully
>> at the end plate I noticed the nylon insulation around the "D" terminal
>> was melted and I could wiggle the terminal which caused the brush cage
>> to wiggle.It was very close to grounding fully to the case. Wow, didn't
>> think of that.Another tidbit to file away in the memory bank (read:
>> computer; my personal memory bank can no longer be trusted...A.D.D. can
>> be...Oh, look! A Toad...a problem.).
>>
>> I took the end plate to Jeff Johnson at Alstar Company Inc. in Hales
>> Corners, WI (414.427.7991) who made some new insulators (I could have
>> done it but was leaving for a week).It looks original and cranked out
>> 19.2v on startup @1800 rpms.Light is out, comes on when at idle,
>> flickers as revs increase and goes out around 1200-1400 rpms. Standing
>> voltage and running voltage under load all check out at ~12.4v.Next is a
>> test drive but that will have to wait until I return from Alaska (No
>> Barney, I'm not driving it to Alaska!).
>>
>> So many thanks to all who helped:Barney Gaylord, Rick Ewald, Don Zubrod,
>> Dave Spearing, Jeff Johnson, John (at Maxim Rebuilders in Burlington WI
>> 262.763.9441) and everyone else whose ear I gnawed on getting scraps of
>> info.
>>
>> Hope you never run into this problem!Fingers crossed.  "One never knows
>> the depth of the well by the length of the handle on the pump"...my
>> Father always said this.
>>
>>
>> /Safety Fast!/
>>
>>
>> Dave W
>> 59 :{)
>> 59 MGA 1500
>> Burlington WI
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Thu Jul 26 05:00:05 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 07:00:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] A + engines
In-Reply-To: <5010D554.1070007@justbrits.com>
References: <5010691D.3050502@wi.net>
	<584BE77E-F02F-4504-AA86-3B7D88EC37CA@aol.com>
	<5010D554.1070007@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <E38CA3FF-3ED6-48DD-B392-D4606ACA0938@aol.com>

I have no idea, jut spreading rumors :) But makes sense... 80s Jaguars are
half metric.  Maybe it's just certain parts of it.

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 26, 2012, at 1:27 AM, "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
wrote:

> << On 7/25/2012 9:33 PM, John Elwood wrote:
>
> In addition to what it says, I understand that it is metric. >>
>
> Where do you get that, John ? ? ?  Sure make working on them difficult ! !
>
> And make the interchanging of parts (now on-going TTBOMK) 'impossible
> ? ! ?
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgmagnette at aol.com

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Jul 26 11:25:19 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 12:25:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Electrical Saga & A+ engines
In-Reply-To: <1343304960.36709.YahooMailNeo@web124905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <50104842.7090806@wi.net>
	<1343304960.36709.YahooMailNeo@web124905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50117D7F.8000300@wi.net>

Ahhh yes.  The simple answer to your (and several others) question  is, 
I'm deranged and stubborn.  I'm one of those originality people that 
when I found out the generator that came with the car when I purchased 
it was dated a bit before the build date of the car, I had to keep it.  
It has the screw on connectors rather than Lucar (spade) connectors and 
I like those better anyway.  The rear plate has the nylon insulation and 
but would prefer the phenolic.

You are correct, I have 12 generators lying around, 3 of which have the 
tach drive rear plate for the Bugey and MkII Sprite (MkI Midget).  All 
are Lucar connections (except the tach drive units) and their front 
plates have a longer distance between mounting holes, which I find 
interesting, but I would then need a longer adjustment arm.  Apparently 
the one on my MGA is shorter (may not be original?  Barney?).

The REAL answer is: I DO NOT like throwing parts on the car if I do not 
know the underlying cause for the problem.  I wasn't sure if it was the 
generator as it checked out in the shop.  It could have been the control 
box and Bob Jeffers and I did all we could over the phone.  He offered 
to check out both the generator and his control box and that is what I 
was going to do until I had the "just-one-more-look" moment.   In short 
(pun intended), I didn't want to blow some other part.  If this were 45 
years ago and the car my sole transport, I would've thrown parts at it.

I may very well change to an alternator in future.  I drive my cars, 
they are not trailer queens.  When I look at another person's car and 
see an alternator, I think, "Yes! This car is driven and the owner 
probably doesn't have the drama of driving long distances or after dark 
that I do.  When I see a generator on a car I assume the poor owner 
suffers from much the same affliction as I or doesn't want to change 
over for whatever reason.

I'm not defending my position at all...I know it's "just me".  :-)

What a great list we have.  AND thanks to all who answered my queries 
about A+ engines.  I was doing well until Daniel threw in the bit about 
about the Morris Ital A+ engine not having 11 studs. I'll have to dig up 
that book.

Regards,
Dave W.



On 7/26/2012 7:16 AM, lotuspilot at frontier.com wrote:
> Dave,
>   
> Interesting read - all parts of it.  I enjoyed it thoroughly.
> However, all through the read, I kept wondering why you didn't simply toss the
> generator and install one of the five or six that are undoubtedly sitting on
> the shelf way in the back of your garage?
>   
> Mike
> ________________________________
> From: dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
> To: MGs
> <mgs at autox.team.net>; Spridgets at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012
> 3:25 PM
> Subject: [Spridgets] Electrical Saga part 3 of 3
>
> PART 3

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jul 26 11:36:36 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 17:36:36 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Electrical Saga & A+ engines
Message-ID: <20120726.133636.6803.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Dave,
  I have followed the saga, though without any ideas of my own to offer.
  You said that you might change to an alternator. What do you calculate your
night-time electrical draw to be?
  My TD has the dynamo still, 18A on this later TD. Headlamps are original
1953 sealed beams that are quite bright, fortunately. The one non-stock change
I made was to use LED tail light bulbs.  These turned out to be as bright as
LBC's halogens, but with a fraction of the power requirement and heat, and I
find that ammeter is + above 2200 rpm with lights, heater, wipers and lights
on.  Routinely I shut off headlamps at stoplights, but that's just my idea of
saving a watt/amp.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
To: spridgets at autox.team.net, MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Electrical Saga & A+ engines
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 12:25:19 -0500

Ahhh yes.  The simple answer to your (and several others) question  is,
I'm deranged and stubborn.  I'm one of those originality people that
when I found out the generator that came with the car when I purchased
it was dated a bit before the build date of the car, I had to keep it.
It has the screw on connectors rather than Lucar (spade) connectors and
I like those better anyway.  The rear plate has the nylon insulation and
but would prefer the phenolic.

You are correct, I have 12 generators lying around, 3 of which have the
tach drive rear plate for the Bugey and MkII Sprite (MkI Midget).  All
are Lucar connections (except the tach drive units) and their front
plates have a longer distance between mounting holes, which I find
interesting, but I would then need a longer adjustment arm.  Apparently
the one on my MGA is shorter (may not be original?  Barney?).

The REAL answer is: I DO NOT like throwing parts on the car if I do not
know the underlying cause for the problem.  I wasn't sure if it was the
generator as it checked out in the shop.  It could have been the control
box and Bob Jeffers and I did all we could over the phone.  He offered
to check out both the generator and his control box and that is what I
was going to do until I had the "just-one-more-look" moment.   In short
(pun intended), I didn't want to blow some other part.  If this were 45
years ago and the car my sole transport, I would've thrown parts at it.

I may very well change to an alternator in future.  I drive my cars,
they are not trailer queens.  When I look at another person's car and
see an alternator, I think, "Yes! This car is driven and the owner
probably doesn't have the drama of driving long distances or after dark
that I do.  When I see a generator on a car I assume the poor owner
suffers from much the same affliction as I or doesn't want to change
over for whatever reason.

I'm not defending my position at all...I know it's "just me".  :-)

What a great list we have.  AND thanks to all who answered my queries
about A+ engines.  I was doing well until Daniel threw in the bit about
about the Morris Ital A+ engine not having 11 studs. I'll have to dig up
that book.

Regards,
Dave W.



On 7/26/2012 7:16 AM, lotuspilot at frontier.com wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Interesting read - all parts of it.  I enjoyed it thoroughly.
> However, all through the read, I kept wondering why you didn't simply toss
the
> generator and install one of the five or six that are undoubtedly sitting
on
> the shelf way in the back of your garage?
>
> Mike
> ________________________________
> From: dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
> To: MGs
> <mgs at autox.team.net>; Spridgets at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012
> 3:25 PM
> Subject: [Spridgets] Electrical Saga part 3 of 3
>
> PART 3
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Thu Jul 26 12:33:15 2012
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 18:33:15 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Installing door hinge buffers
Message-ID: <20120726.143315.31064.1@webmail05.vgs.untd.com>

____________________________________________________________
Refinance Now at 2.38%
$150,000 DYNAMICREGION mortgage $583mo. Fast & Easy Quotes! (3.23%APR)
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50118dccb88f9dcc6d90st53vuc

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Thu Jul 26 12:32:38 2012
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 18:32:38 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Installing door hinge buffers
Message-ID: <20120726.143238.31064.0@webmail05.vgs.untd.com>

____________________________________________________________
Refinance Now at 2.38%
$150,000 DYNAMICREGION mortgage $583mo. Fast & Easy Quotes! (3.23%APR)
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50118dccdcb8adcc0393st52vuc

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Jul 26 15:30:57 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 16:30:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Electrical Saga & A+ engines
In-Reply-To: <50117D7F.8000300@wi.net>
References: <50104842.7090806@wi.net>
	<1343304960.36709.YahooMailNeo@web124905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<50117D7F.8000300@wi.net>
Message-ID: <5011B711.5040005@ktc.com>

Hmmm....... Well, I didn't ask a question.  Nor am I suggesting that you 
should have "thrown parts at it."   I do think that you could have done 
some electrical troubleshooting with the generator on the car.  I'm 
assuming that you know your way around a DC generator charging system 
and how to use a VOM.   If not, any of the late 50s - early 60s Motors 
or Chilton auto repair manuals would give you the troubleshooting 
instructions.  I still have a couple laying around.

As far as DC generator charging systems go, just about everyone of my 
generation (I'm 74) put thousands of cross-country miles on cars so 
equipped.  No big deal; they were all we had. ;-)    I think my first 
alternator-equipped car was a '66 Corvair Corsa coupe w/turbocharger.  
Just one of those things; I always drove older or vintage iron. :-) MY 
'69 B has an original type 5 wire alternator on it.  But I truly don't 
care about super originality.  It's a driver not a show car.

Anyway, peace,

CR
On 7/26/2012 12:25 PM, dwoerpel wrote:
> Ahhh yes.  The simple answer to your (and several others) question  
> is, I'm deranged and stubborn.  I'm one of those originality people 
> that when I found out the generator that came with the car when I 
> purchased it was dated a bit before the build date of the car, I had 
> to keep it.  It has the screw on connectors rather than Lucar (spade) 
> connectors and I like those better anyway.  The rear plate has the 
> nylon insulation and but would prefer the phenolic.
>
> You are correct, I have 12 generators lying around, 3 of which have 
> the tach drive rear plate for the Bugey and MkII Sprite (MkI Midget).  
> All are Lucar connections (except the tach drive units) and their 
> front plates have a longer distance between mounting holes, which I 
> find interesting, but I would then need a longer adjustment arm.  
> Apparently the one on my MGA is shorter (may not be original?  Barney?).
>
> The REAL answer is: I DO NOT like throwing parts on the car if I do 
> not know the underlying cause for the problem.  I wasn't sure if it 
> was the generator as it checked out in the shop.  It could have been 
> the control box and Bob Jeffers and I did all we could over the 
> phone.  He offered to check out both the generator and his control box 
> and that is what I was going to do until I had the 
> "just-one-more-look" moment.   In short (pun intended), I didn't want 
> to blow some other part.  If this were 45 years ago and the car my 
> sole transport, I would've thrown parts at it.
>
> I may very well change to an alternator in future.  I drive my cars, 
> they are not trailer queens.  When I look at another person's car and 
> see an alternator, I think, "Yes! This car is driven and the owner 
> probably doesn't have the drama of driving long distances or after 
> dark that I do.  When I see a generator on a car I assume the poor 
> owner suffers from much the same affliction as I or doesn't want to 
> change over for whatever reason.
>
> I'm not defending my position at all...I know it's "just me".  :-)
>
> What a great list we have.  AND thanks to all who answered my queries 
> about A+ engines.  I was doing well until Daniel threw in the bit 
> about about the Morris Ital A+ engine not having 11 studs. I'll have 
> to dig up that book.
>
> Regards,
> Dave W.
>
>
>
> On 7/26/2012 7:16 AM, lotuspilot at frontier.com wrote:
>> Dave,
>>   Interesting read - all parts of it.  I enjoyed it thoroughly.
>> However, all through the read, I kept wondering why you didn't simply 
>> toss the
>> generator and install one of the five or six that are undoubtedly 
>> sitting on
>> the shelf way in the back of your garage?
>>   Mike
>> ________________________________
>> From: dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
>> To: MGs
>> <mgs at autox.team.net>; Spridgets at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012
>> 3:25 PM
>> Subject: [Spridgets] Electrical Saga part 3 of 3
>>
>> PART 3
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Jul 26 17:37:20 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 18:37:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Electrical Saga part 3 of 3
In-Reply-To: <AD6D161AD8424A5A881CA11203278F69@leosHP>
References: <50104842.7090806@wi.net> <AD6D161AD8424A5A881CA11203278F69@leosHP>
Message-ID: <34142.108.101.164.11.1343345840.squirrel@wm.wi.net>

Shoot. This is why I dislike electrical systems.  To me they are
capricious; they work one time and not another.  I know there has to be
cause and effect but sometimes it's beyond me.

I hope your replacement box lasts longer than mine did.  The quality seems
to be hit or miss.  My original control box last for over 30 years.  From
whom did you purchase your new control box?  Let us know how long it
lasts.

Bob wanted 3 tests run on the generator so he could tailor the solid state
box to the car.  I assume you did those?  What are your symptoms? (no
charge light on?)

Hopefully the list has the answer.

Dave W.



> Hmmmm.. I too have been having charging problems on my Bugeye BUT mine is
> now cured as it is charging the battery at about 13.1 V at around 1800
> rpm.
> I had the generator checked (working great) and then narrowed it down to
> the
> control; box.  I then sent of my old unit to Wilton Auto Electric and had
> it
> converted to electronic.  Got it back, installed, and NO WORK...  I then
> rechecked evverything and sent the converted regulator back to Wilton
> Electric to be checked . repaired.  Meanwhile I ordered a replacement o;d
> style control box and the charging system works fine...Meanwhile the
> electronic control box comes in and... IT STILL DOESNbT WORK..  Bob says
> everything is fine with it....   I am certain my control box and generator
> are working fine so whats up with the electronic one?
>
>
> Leo

From allan.thompson at ntlworld.com  Mon Jul 30 06:30:20 2012
From: allan.thompson at ntlworld.com (Thompson Allan)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 13:30:20 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
Message-ID: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>

1977 rubber bumper MG B Roadster with a stainless steel tank replaced about
15 years ago.


Fuel gauge was producing variable results and the MG Owners Club had a new
'more reliable' version on sale so I bought one.

Problem is getting the old one out...
The fitting is a 'locking' ring with three prongs that has to be rotated...
but the ring into which it fits appeared to be rusted... on a stainless
tank!... and can't be moved... in fact I have bent the tiny prongs trying!

Does anyone have any tips for removing the old tank sender unit?

thanks in anticipation,

Allan

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Jul 30 07:51:13 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 08:51:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
In-Reply-To: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50169151.4050709@ktc.com>

Yep, I replaced the s-unit in my '69 B a couple of months ago, had the 
same problem.  It's a good idea to have a new locking ring on hand as 
you may destroy the old one getting it out if it's really stubborn; also 
a new gasket.  I squirted penetrating oil around the ring, tapped the 
ring with a punch & hammer to unseat it in the flange, squirted more oil 
on it and left it overnight.  The next morning I started tapping it out 
CCW.  Just had to keep worrying, it tapping on each prong.  You have to 
keep your punch down toward the bottom of the prongs.  If the prongs 
bend or shear off, don't despair.  They are just the extension of an 
inclined flange bent into the ring.  You can get at the bottom of the 
bend with a smaller punch or a small blunt chisel.  Get a new ring and 
you'll see what I mean.  The only thing holding it all together is friction.

CR
On 7/30/2012 7:30 AM, Thompson Allan wrote:
> 1977 rubber bumper MG B Roadster with a stainless steel tank replaced about
> 15 years ago.
>
>
> Fuel gauge was producing variable results and the MG Owners Club had a new
> 'more reliable' version on sale so I bought one.
>
> Problem is getting the old one out...
> The fitting is a 'locking' ring with three prongs that has to be rotated...
> but the ring into which it fits appeared to be rusted... on a stainless
> tank!... and can't be moved... in fact I have bent the tiny prongs trying!
>
> Does anyone have any tips for removing the old tank sender unit?
>
> thanks in anticipation,
>
> Allan
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From erictw1 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 30 08:12:22 2012
From: erictw1 at sbcglobal.net (erictw1 at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 09:12:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
In-Reply-To: <50169151.4050709@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <881327.83228.qm@smtp121-mob.biz.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXk2oap3: Permission denied

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Jul 30 08:15:55 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 15:15:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
References: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82E696650D874E0E8D895BF80E4980B5@paul>

I've never seen a removal tool but I can imagine what one would look like. 
On a rusted out (body, not sender fitting) mild steel tank it was just a 
matter of tapping each tang on the locking ring in turn to try and turn the 
locking ring in an anti-clockwise direction.  With each tap it doesn't 
actually turn of course (until it comes loose) but it sort of knocks the 
ring from side to side in a three-cornered motion.  Just keep tapping round 
each in turn until you start to see it move.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Problem is getting the old one out...

From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Jul 30 16:25:57 2012
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 18:25:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
In-Reply-To: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <501709F5.5050109@snet.net>

In addition to Charlies and Pauls tips here are a few more:
1. Please use a brass punch or something that won't create a spark when 
knocking on the retaining ring!
2. The exploded drawings on the Moss website used to show the gasket 
incorrectly. It goes between the tank and the sender.
3. Have a quarter tank of petrol (gas) or less and jack up the right 
side to swap out the sender.

Mike
'79B

On 7/30/2012 8:30 AM, Thompson Allan wrote:
> 1977 rubber bumper MG B Roadster with a stainless steel tank replaced about
> 15 years ago.
>
>
> Fuel gauge was producing variable results and the MG Owners Club had a new
> 'more reliable' version on sale so I bought one.
>
> Problem is getting the old one out...
> The fitting is a 'locking' ring with three prongs that has to be rotated...
> but the ring into which it fits appeared to be rusted... on a stainless
> tank!... and can't be moved... in fact I have bent the tiny prongs trying!
>
> Does anyone have any tips for removing the old tank sender unit?
>
> thanks in anticipation,
>
> Allan
> _______________________________________________

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon Jul 30 16:49:21 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 18:49:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent miss
Message-ID: <50170f73.f342340a.464a.6883@mx.google.com>

My 1980 MGB has developed and intermittent miss.  This morning it started
and ran fine until I had gone about 5 miles on the parkway.  When it began
to cut out, the tachometer needle took a nose dive toward zero.  At one
point it cut out so badly that the engine stopped completely and I had to
pull off of the road.  It started immediately, however.  

Given the behavior of the tach I believe that the problem is on the primary
side of the ignition possibly the following components:
- the connections at the fuse block.
- the ignition relay
- the primary side of the 
- the electronic ignition amplifier (I have the CEI system with the
amplifier mounted on the fender.)

I have tentatively eliminated the fuse block connections and the relay
because the gas and fuel gauges both continued to work when the engine
started to miss and they are on a circuit which is fed by the ignition
relay.

That leaves the coil and the amplifier both of which are original.  So my
questions:

- When the coil fails when it gets hot is it the primary or secondary
winding which fails?
- Would a failing electronic ignition amplifier cause symptoms like this?

Keep in mind that this car has a ballast resistor in series with the coil
for normal running and that when the starter is energized the coil gets the
full 12 volts.

If the problem is in the amplifier I have three options:
- replace it with a stock amplifier
- get the Petronix insert for my distributor
- replace the distributor with a Petronix

Which do you suggest?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From strovato at optonline.net  Mon Jul 30 18:38:22 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 20:38:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
In-Reply-To: <501709F5.5050109@snet.net>
References: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
	<501709F5.5050109@snet.net>
Message-ID: <0M80002VV1VSPES0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I haven't tried this on a gas tank, but one thing that sometimes 
helps is to get two punches and two hammers and a friend.  Put on 
some music or something to keep the beat and hit opposite tabs at the 
same time.  That way you actually get the necessary twist 
motion.  This only works if you have enough access, of course.  I've 
seen this done to disassemble struts that were out of the vehicle.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 06:25 PM 7/30/2012, Mike Janacek wrote:
>In addition to Charlies and Pauls tips here are a few more:
>1. Please use a brass punch or something that won't create a spark 
>when knocking on the retaining ring!
>2. The exploded drawings on the Moss website used to show the gasket 
>incorrectly. It goes between the tank and the sender.
>3. Have a quarter tank of petrol (gas) or less and jack up the right 
>side to swap out the sender.

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Jul 31 03:10:59 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 10:10:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
References: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
	<501709F5.5050109@snet.net>
Message-ID: <0119E39E62524435AC5E71093F375977@paul>

Unless you have fuel leaking in the area of the sender there really is no 
need to use a brass drift, and in any case you are only tapping the locking 
ring round, not trying to chisel the tank off the car, so I'd have said 
there was no risk of generating a spark, I've changed or removed them five 
times on two cars and not had a problem.

The other advice is perfectly valid, and two people tapping lugs round 
*does* make it easier, if you have someone you are happy to snuggle up to 
:o)

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> 1. Please use a brass punch or something that won't create a spark when 
> knocking on the retaining ring!

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Jul 31 03:47:29 2012
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 10:47:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent miss
References: <50170f73.f342340a.464a.6883@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <B63155DE2A904B24A997C10FDD46CD79@paul>

The CEI system is very good, so I'd be looking for an intermittent 
connection before replacing it without doing a proper diagnosis.  You could 
replace it and still have the problem, which would annoy me (having just 
bought a new external disc drive which had the same problem as the old one, 
then paid #50 to 'fix' a USB problem, only to discover for myself that it's 
probably a faulty hub, that the external drives weren't even plugged in to).

The question is, does the tach drop because the 12v supply to it has been 
lost, or because it is no longer receiving pulses from the ignition?  If the 
former then it can only be the relay, ignition switch, or connections around 
them.  If the latter then it could be the ballast resistance, coil, 
amplifier, trigger or connections around them.  If other ignition powered 
circuits are affected as well then you know it is the former, if they 
continue to work normally then it is the latter.  The temp and fuel gauges 
are thermal and very slow moving so the power would have to cut for a second 
or more before you would see anything on those, so you need some other more 
instantaneous indicator.  In the past when I've had an intermittent problem 
I've hooked up a meter or test light in the cabin connected to various 
points in a circuit to track down a problem.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My 1980 MGB has developed and intermittent miss. 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 31 07:06:34 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 06:06:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
In-Reply-To: <0M80002VV1VSPES0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
	<501709F5.5050109@snet.net> <0M80002VV1VSPES0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <1343739994.73992.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

At 06:25 PM 7/30/2012, Mike Janacek wrote:

> 2. The exploded drawings on the Moss website used to show the gasket incorrectly. It goes between the tank and the sender.

I guess they didn't use a brass punch in their drawing?? ;-)

Dan D
'76 B, '65 B
Central NJ USA

From 71mgbgt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 31 09:03:02 2012
From: 71mgbgt at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 09:03:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent miss
In-Reply-To: <50170f73.f342340a.464a.6883@mx.google.com>
References: <50170f73.f342340a.464a.6883@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAPx2zFHZHEHPyYgjb9YN3a7GhXUBm6HSwOBEYhniWfM=a8QPfA@mail.gmail.com>

Peter,

My Triumph TR8 was acting in a similar fashion: it would quit
momentarily, or totally, but it started very easily then ran well.

It turned out to be the loose ignition switch unit. The wire harness
plug on the back side of the key switch was loose and following some
slight movement/rattle of the key chain in the switch the power would
turn off. In my case I re-tightened to harness plug to the switch and
all is good.

Henri
1971 MGB GT
1975 TR6
1980 TR8

On Mon, Jul 30, 2012 at 4:49 PM, Peter Schauss <rpschauss at gmail.com> wrote:
> My 1980 MGB has developed and intermittent miss.  This morning it started
> and ran fine until I had gone about 5 miles on the parkway.  When it began
> to cut out, the tachometer needle took a nose dive toward zero.  At one
> point it cut out so badly that the engine stopped completely and I had to
> pull off of the road.  It started immediately, however.
>
> Given the behavior of the tach I believe that the problem is on the primary
> side of the ignition possibly the following components:
> - the connections at the fuse block.
> - the ignition relay
> - the primary side of the
> - the electronic ignition amplifier (I have the CEI system with the
> amplifier mounted on the fender.)
>
> I have tentatively eliminated the fuse block connections and the relay
> because the gas and fuel gauges both continued to work when the engine
> started to miss and they are on a circuit which is fed by the ignition
> relay.
>
> That leaves the coil and the amplifier both of which are original.  So my
> questions:
>
> - When the coil fails when it gets hot is it the primary or secondary
> winding which fails?
> - Would a failing electronic ignition amplifier cause symptoms like this?
>
> Keep in mind that this car has a ballast resistor in series with the coil
> for normal running and that when the starter is energized the coil gets the
> full 12 volts.
>
> If the problem is in the amplifier I have three options:
> - replace it with a stock amplifier
> - get the Petronix insert for my distributor
> - replace the distributor with a Petronix
>
> Which do you suggest?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/71mgbgt at gmail.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jul 31 10:21:49 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 11:21:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Tank Sender unit replacement
In-Reply-To: <1343739994.73992.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <CABrxh4EMpDeJpfsg=e29=PZcYOUKke4vr6VrUMM52sgcajJrwg@mail.gmail.com>
	<501709F5.5050109@snet.net> <0M80002VV1VSPES0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<1343739994.73992.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5018061D.5050809@ktc.com>

You're right about the gasket.  IN order from the tank out it's gasket, 
sender, retaining ring. I've replaced a lot of tank sending units in my 
day but the retaining ring on my '69 B was the hardest to get to turn of 
all of them.  I knocked the ears off of it with a drift, had to use a 
blunt chisel at the bottom of the L-bend to get it to move.  A real PITA 
but the gas gauge works now!  As far as two people tapping away goes I 
had trouble getting in a position where I swing my small ball peen 
hammer, notwithstanding that I had the rear wheel off!

CR




On 7/31/2012 8:06 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> At 06:25 PM 7/30/2012, Mike Janacek wrote:
>
>> 2. The exploded drawings on the Moss website used to show the gasket incorrectly. It goes between the tank and the sender.
> I guess they didn't use a brass punch in their drawing?? ;-)
>
> Dan D
> '76 B, '65 B

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Tue Jul 31 16:37:21 2012
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 17:37:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent miss
In-Reply-To: <B63155DE2A904B24A997C10FDD46CD79@paul>
References: <50170f73.f342340a.464a.6883@mx.google.com>
	<B63155DE2A904B24A997C10FDD46CD79@paul>
Message-ID: <009901cd6f6d$0ce40180$26ac0480$@net>

On mine it was the ignition switch, it had worn out enough at the contacts
just enough to be randomly disconnected.  Unfortunately no one sells just
the switch, which is detachable from the key assembly.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PaulHunt73
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 4:47 AM
To: Peter Schauss; Mgs-Digest
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Intermittent miss

The CEI system is very good, so I'd be looking for an intermittent
connection before replacing it without doing a proper diagnosis.  You could
replace it and still have the problem, which would annoy me (having just
bought a new external disc drive which had the same problem as the old one,
then paid #50 to 'fix' a USB problem, only to discover for myself that it's
probably a faulty hub, that the external drives weren't even plugged in to).

The question is, does the tach drop because the 12v supply to it has been
lost, or because it is no longer receiving pulses from the ignition?  If the
former then it can only be the relay, ignition switch, or connections around
them.  If the latter then it could be the ballast resistance, coil,
amplifier, trigger or connections around them.  If other ignition powered
circuits are affected as well then you know it is the former, if they
continue to work normally then it is the latter.  The temp and fuel gauges
are thermal and very slow moving so the power would have to cut for a second
or more before you would see anything on those, so you need some other more
instantaneous indicator.  In the past when I've had an intermittent problem
I've hooked up a meter or test light in the cabin connected to various
points in a circuit to track down a problem.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My 1980 MGB has developed and intermittent miss. 
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Tue Jul 31 20:52:00 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 22:52:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Coil for 1980 MGB (was intermittent miss)
Message-ID: <501899d2.8a26340a.4d6e.52a5@mx.google.com>

Thanks to those of you who responded to my previous post about the
intermittent miss.  I discovered that I had a new coil on the shelf which I
apparently had bought several years ago so I decided to replace the old one.
The coil I used was Moss part # 143-230 which is the one listed for years
75-80.  The label on the coil says that it is to be used with a ballast
resistor (1.5 to 1.8 ohms iirc) and the wiring diagram for my car says that
it has one.  There are two wires feeding the positive terminal of the coil.
With the ignition on, one wire showed zero volts while the other showed
about 12.5.  The 12.5 volt wire comes from the CEI amplifier and I assume
that the zero volt wire comes from the starter solenoid.

If the system is ballasted, shouldn't the wire coming from the CEI amplifier
show 6 volts or is there something different about the CEI ignition system?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Jul 31 21:18:23 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 20:18:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Coil for 1980 MGB (was intermittent miss)
In-Reply-To: <501899d2.8a26340a.4d6e.52a5@mx.google.com>
References: <501899d2.8a26340a.4d6e.52a5@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <50739A44-86B8-43E5-8ED2-9A44A1411571@gmail.com>

A resistor does resist unless current is flowing. So just turning on the key
on an measuring the voltage will show available voltage.
It a straight ohms law calculation. To calculate the voltage drop across the
resistor E= I X R, or if you prefer automotive terms V = A X R. No matter what
value resistor you plug into the formula when you multiply by zero your
voltage drop will be zero.
Rick


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 31, 2012, at 19:52, "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss at gmail.com> wrote:

> With the ignition on, one wire showed zero volts while the other showed
> about 12.5.  The 12.5 volt wire comes from the CEI amplifier and I assume
> that the zero volt wire comes from the starter