From trijagparts at mindspring.com  Sun Jan  1 11:45:21 2012
From: trijagparts at mindspring.com (Brad Wilson)
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2012 12:45:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Happy New Year / MGF
Message-ID: <20120101184529.4C0EE187652@autox.team.net>

Happy New Year folks.

Sorry to bomb the whole list, but I want to remind all my fellow 
Canadian MG list members that the "new" MGF is now available in Canada.

And, if you could find a moment to give us a like on Facebook, we 
would very much appreciate it.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/MGF-Cars/156483527770426

Regards,

Brad
www.mgfcars.ca

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Sun Jan  1 15:40:35 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 17:40:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MGS] Stromberg tuning/ repair
Message-ID: <4f00e0db.491be00a.4c32.69fb@mx.google.com>

One more suggestion, AFTER you check the timing, but before you start trying
to tune the carburetor.  Check that your mechanic did not rip the diaphragm
while trying to set the mixture.  There is a special tool for adjusting the
needle.  One part keeps the dashpot from turning while the allen wrench
raise and lowers the needle.  If your mechanic did not use that tool, he may
have ripped the diaphragm.

My car is a bit different from yours since it is an '80 and I converted it
to dual HS4s with the old style intake in exhaust manifolds (something I
highly recommend, by the way).  New York exempts cars more than 25 years old
from the emission inspection but, before my car reached that age I was able
to get it to pass by splicing a generic catalytic converter in front of the
front muffler.  The car always passed the idle emission test with flying
colors.  If you are going to have to go through this drill every year, you
might want to consider something like this.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

Previous message  ------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 01:54:08 GMT
From: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: aschneider at shaw.ca
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] stromberg tuning/repair?
Message-ID: <20111231.205408.23385.0 at webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

To get my 1975 Stromberg equipped MGB to pass emissions in Connecticut
required carb and ignition settings that made the engine suffer so that it
could barely power the car to the testing station.

From allan.thompson at ntlworld.com  Mon Jan  2 17:57:04 2012
From: allan.thompson at ntlworld.com (Thompson Allan)
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2012 19:57:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
Message-ID: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>

Happy New Year!

I have had a 1960 MGA for a few years - nut haven't had the money nor the
time to tackle a rebuild.... but 2012 should allow some of both... so I am
wondering if anyone has a master-plan for a strip down to the frame and a
full rebuild?

I plan to have the engine tuned by professionals (with the crank-shaft
being balanced) and the bodywork and trim also done by professionals.

I would like to get down to the frame to have it powder coated and work
from there - but if anyone has a master plan that would be great! I do have
several MG A Books and did complete an MGB rebuild a number of years ago -
but that was easier because I started with a new shell which I had sprayed
then sat it side by side with the donor car.

For instance, some of the panels have small dings and dents... should I
take these off and get them prepared and painted before reassembly?
Should I take the engine out before I take the panels off?

Any advice gratefully received!

Allan

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Jan  2 20:04:27 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2012 19:04:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1325559867.14771.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: Thompson Allan <allan.thompson at ntlworld.com>


> I have had a 1960 MGA
for a few years - nut haven't had the money nor the
> time to tackle a
rebuild.... but 2012 should allow some of both... so I am
> wondering if
anyone has a master-plan for a strip down to the frame and a
> full rebuild?
Well, I ended up not taking the body tub off the frame on
mine because the
fellow who did the body work told me it
wasn't necessary, and that I'd end up
paying a lot for the
bragging rights of a "frame-off" getting everything lined
up again when it wasn't necessary.  So YMMV, but here's
my experience:
http://tildebang.com/mg/

From rcateb at comcast.net  Tue Jan  3 14:38:35 2012
From: rcateb at comcast.net (Bob and Trish)
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 15:38:35 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
Message-ID: <DCEA41B99E734B81BEA04FE444D30588@RCA>

Congrats on your building dedication to restore your A.  I have a 60 A
roadster with my restoration lasting
8 years-a labor of love and perfection.  I pulled the body tub off the
frame-not overwheming provided your reinforce the body
tub at the door openings and/or top of cockpit.  The body rested on a home
built 2X4 rack with dolly wheels.
My frame was blasted and covered with Imron.  The body was
dip striped and 90% of the original fastenings were striped and replated.
With the crop of digital cameras and
cheap dig photos take pics of everything and bag parts with detailed labels
and photos.
Do not let your aluminum panels-doors, bonnet, trunk lid out of your garage as
blasting or heavy stripping will
probably warp the panels.
Happy to provide more insight if desired.

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Jan  3 21:32:25 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 23:32:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
Message-ID: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>

Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis is 
box sections and of course the inside never received any 
rust-proofing/paint etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs 
needed I would like to get something inside to preserve it for the next 
50 years. 

I have a rotisserie that easily allows me to turn the chassis 360 
degrees along its length. 

My thought is to buy some Rustoleum 'rusty metal' primer, thin it a bit 
and pour some into the box sections via existing access holes (after 
closing other holes with tape) then turn the chassis and try get the 
paint to coat as much of the inside as possible. 

POR 15 would probably be a better product to treat rusty metal but that 
is much more expensive. 

Eastwood sells a spray in product with extension wands but again a bit 
pricey at ~$20/can X 4-6 cans needed. 

Opinions - is the Rustoleum stuff worth using? Spring for some POR15? 
Other ideas?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jan  4 02:21:13 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 09:21:13 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
References: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>

Best off with a purpose-made product like Waxoyl or similar rather than 
paint.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis is box 
> sections and of course the inside never received any rust-proofing/paint 
> etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs needed I would like to get 
> something inside to preserve it for the next 50 years.

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Wed Jan  4 04:49:13 2012
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 11:49:13 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
References: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
Message-ID: <BF1F408D61B941A9827F663D6B1EE09C@TomVistaPC>

I would concur, blow it in with a wax injector similar to the following to 
make sure it gets everywhere.

http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=2800

Also if you can rotate the chassis even better.

Tom
MGA 1600Mk1
AH3000 MKIII BJ8
Mini Park Lane

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <ejrussell at mebtel.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis


> Best off with a purpose-made product like Waxoyl or similar rather than 
> paint.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis is box 
>> sections and of course the inside never received any rust-proofing/paint 
>> etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs needed I would like to get 
>> something inside to preserve it for the next 50 years.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk 

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Jan  3 10:25:40 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:25:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1325559867.14771.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
  >
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<1325559867.14771.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E1RiRMo-00017W-9D@eta.look.ca>

David,

I did my Austin Healey BJ8, and my MGB GT V8 down to the 
frame/chassis/body and I have done my 1955 Aston Martin down to the 
bare frame.  (Frame is now back from powder coating place). I was 
advised by a professional outfit NOT to take the body off.  But I 
did.   This, contrary to the advice, was dead easy as the aluminium 
body is rigid on a steel body frame.  And I can say that neither the 
AH or MG were difficult.   If bits fitted before they will fit again 
- just like your pants - as long as you do not alter your body 
(waistline).  The big decision is do you sandblast or chemically 
strip the chassis.  With sandblasting you cannot get into the nooks 
and crannies and getting rid of the blast media can be a pain.  With 
chemical dipping you have the problem of weeping from the nooks and 
crannies with destroys the paint.  If I was to do another one I would 
do chemical dipping as the weeping problem goes away if you get a 
good powder coating professional outfit with a bl**dy big oven.  They 
wash it out with steam and then cook the chassis so there is no 
moisture inside.  The powder coat then seals everything up.  I powder 
coated my AM chassis and it is beautiful  - every single piece is 
covered - all the nooks and crannies.  As to whether you go down to 
the chassis just depends on your values.   I don't do my cars for 
anyone else but me - I like people to admire them but I am just as 
happy belting down a lonely county road as I am at a show.  I like to 
feel that I have done a good job - I polished all the brass things 
behind the AH dash, and I have done this for the AM.  Neither of 
these parts will be seen BUT I KNOW THEY ARE THERE !!

So going the whole hog just depends on how you feel - but I would 
hazard a guess that when you have done a real fine job you will look 
at the car and extol  WOW.  But if you do a semi-good job you will 
just murmur "nice".


At 10:04 PM 1/2/2012, David Breneman wrote:
>  From: Thompson Allan <allan.thompson at ntlworld.com>
>
>
> > I have had a 1960 MGA
>for a few years - nut haven't had the money nor the
> > time to tackle a
>rebuild.... but 2012 should allow some of both... so I am
> > wondering if
>anyone has a master-plan for a strip down to the frame and a
> > full rebuild?
>Well, I ended up not taking the body tub off the frame on
>mine because the
>fellow who did the body work told me it
>wasn't necessary, and that I'd end up
>paying a lot for the
>bragging rights of a "frame-off" getting everything lined
>up again when it wasn't necessary.  So YMMV, but here's
>my experience:
>http://tildebang.com/mg/
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jan  4 07:52:51 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 14:52:51 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
Message-ID: <20120104.095251.17997.2@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

Eric,   I would choose Waxoyl or an equivalent also.   Unlike paints, that
tend to "bridge" the joints between metal pieces, leaving a hollow unprotected
area underneath, the Waxoyle creeps right into tiny spaces, such as around
rivet heads, bolts, brake tube clamps and such.  It's not elegant, and it does
smell of solvent for weeks, but you can wipe it off areas that are to be
painted, and it seems to  do a good job over the years.   If you have a couple
of pieces of metal around, bolt them together, paint the edges and put on a
little Waxoyl. The WO creeps right into the spaces and works up its way up
vertical surfaces too.  Toyota had a recall of the chassis on many Tacomas a
year or so back. A three-MG friend has one, 2002, that was so rusted Toyota
installed a new chassis under the vehicle. Mine, same age, same mileage, the
same agent declared to be the soundest chassis of those he inspected. The
first week I owned the Tacoma I sprayed it with a two litre can of Waxoyl.
It's anecdotal evidence, but I am a believer.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 23:32:25 -0500

Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis is
box sections and of course the inside never received any
rust-proofing/paint etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs
needed I would like to get something inside to preserve it for the next
50 years.

I have a rotisserie that easily allows me to turn the chassis 360
degrees along its length.

My thought is to buy some Rustoleum 'rusty metal' primer, thin it a bit
and pour some into the box sections via existing access holes (after
closing other holes with tape) then turn the chassis and try get the
paint to coat as much of the inside as possible.

POR 15 would probably be a better product to treat rusty metal but that
is much more expensive.

Eastwood sells a spray in product with extension wands but again a bit
pricey at ~$20/can X 4-6 cans needed.

Opinions - is the Rustoleum stuff worth using? Spring for some POR15?
Other ideas?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Jan  4 17:22:17 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2012 19:22:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
References: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
Message-ID: <E1RibXK-0006lU-QC@alpha.look.ca>

Folks,

Waxoyl is another one of those products successful because of 
marketing.  It is just paraffin wax dissolved in paraffin (kerosene) 
and easily made.  There are may better products albeit usually more 
expensive.  Best sorts are those with the creepng characteristic 
which Waxoyl does not have.  But Paul is darn right - paint is not a good idea.



At 04:21 AM 1/4/2012, Paul Hunt wrote:
>Best off with a purpose-made product like Waxoyl or similar rather than paint.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis 
>>is box sections and of course the inside never received any 
>>rust-proofing/paint etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs 
>>needed I would like to get something inside to preserve it for the 
>>next 50 years.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Jan  4 07:21:42 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2012 09:21:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
References: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <E1RibXK-0006lU-79@alpha.look.ca>

Eric,

You get what you pay for !!!   Better and cheaper than Rustoleum is 
good old fashioned engine oil !!!  It will last a coon's age.  In the 
UK I used to use Dinitrol - a legendary rust preventative.  So when I 
did started messing with restoring here in Canada I naturally tried 
to get some.  But guess what?  The manufacturer outlet in Toronto 
said they did not carry the formula used for motor cars - they only 
supplied to the aircraft industry.  However, they said if I bought a 
case (24 aerosol cans) they would get it for me.  So I used 12 cans 
on the MGB and will use the other 12 cans on the Aston.  All the 
tests against Krone, Zeibart, etc etc showed Dinitrol FAR superior - 
sometimes as much as 10 times longer lasting.  The reason why it is 
not sold in NA?  Because it is expensive and NAicans only want cheap 
no-need-to-last stuff.    My suggestion is that after painting (or 
better still powder coating) is that you take it to one of those oil 
spraying places and they will blast stuff in far better than you will 
be able to do with an asthmatic Eastwood wand.   Despite using 
Dinitrol in all the nooks and crannies I drove my MGB to one of those 
places and it was only $25 to squirt into the chassis rails & such - 
places where I could not reach with the spray cans.  All you have to 
do is drive your bare chassis there after painting :-).   The 
advantage of their stuff is that it creeps - and that is what you want.

By the way POR 15 is awesome but if you have rust inside or even oil 
the stuff may not cover it - as a paint it does not creep !!!!


At 11:32 PM 1/3/2012, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote:
>Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis 
>is box sections and of course the inside never received any 
>rust-proofing/paint etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs 
>needed I would like to get something inside to preserve it for the 
>next 50 years.
>I have a rotisserie that easily allows me to turn the chassis 360 
>degrees along its length.
>My thought is to buy some Rustoleum 'rusty metal' primer, thin it a 
>bit and pour some into the box sections via existing access holes 
>(after closing other holes with tape) then turn the chassis and try 
>get the paint to coat as much of the inside as possible.
>POR 15 would probably be a better product to treat rusty metal but 
>that is much more expensive.
>Eastwood sells a spray in product with extension wands but again a 
>bit pricey at ~$20/can X 4-6 cans needed.
>Opinions - is the Rustoleum stuff worth using? Spring for some 
>POR15? Other ideas?
>
>Eric Russell
>Mebane, NC
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From riverside at southslope.net  Wed Jan  4 17:53:31 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 18:53:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
References: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
Message-ID: <4CE79E5898C749FE94F172F0FCB49A45@rileyPC>

How often does Waxol need to be reapplied?

Ron Sanborn

-----Original Message----- 
From: Paul Hunt
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 3:21 AM
To: ejrussell at mebtel.net ; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis

Best off with a purpose-made product like Waxoyl or similar rather than
paint.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis is box 
> sections and of course the inside never received any rust-proofing/paint 
> etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs needed I would like to get 
> something inside to preserve it for the next 50 years.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



-----
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-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Jan  4 20:19:00 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2012 22:19:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Painting inside a chassis
Message-ID: <20120104221900.61t233njj5yc4gs0@webmail2.centurytel.net>

> Seeking opinions about painting (inside of) the chassis of my MGA. 

Thank you everyone for your replies. I don't know why I had not 
considered Waxoyl. I'd had our '78 MGB treated with Waxoyl (car since 
sold). It seems like Waxoyl (or perhaps the redneck/home made version) 
applied with a garden sprayer & extended wands might do the job. 

Thanks for the reminder to check Barney Gaylord's site (which I do 
regularly) and MG experience (which I do occasionally). 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jan  5 02:04:20 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 09:04:20 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
References: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
	<4CE79E5898C749FE94F172F0FCB49A45@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <AF16AEF5B1634B37B516A61B7E2EA504@paul>

Some do it annually.  I did mine once then for the next 10 years or so get a 
good hot day and it would still drip - and that's in the UK.  Under those 
conditions it is certainly 'creeping'.  It won't creep in cool conditions 
and shouldn't be applied in them.  Standing the can in hot water may well 
liquidise what is in there, but as soon as it starts going through the hose 
to the spray attachment it cools and thickens again, so it needs to be 
applied in hot weather.  Adding white spirit to thin it down helps.  The 
application kit also isn't that good, especially the cavity 'wand' (a nail 
pushed into the end of a plastic tube for heavens sake), a proper pressure 
spray gun should be used.  As far as an MGB goes about the one place where 
Waxoyl is positively harmful is the sills behind the front and rear wing 
cover panels.  There is a very narrow vertical gap there, and Waxoyl will 
bridge it trapping moisture in an unprotected area.  This is why replaced 
front and rear wing cover panels often rust through faster than the 
originals - I've had to replace five out of the eight that came to me 
already done.  In those areas I squirt new engine oil down the gaps, then 
distribute it with a piece of thin card.  Time will tell.  Old-hand 
mechanics used to paint your chassis and underbody with your old engine oil 
if you asked them.  Some say it is full of acids that will eat your chassis 
away, but forget it has just come out of your engine and soft-metal bearings 
...

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> How often does Waxol need to be reapplied?

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Jan  5 07:28:00 2012
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 08:28:00 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <4CE79E5898C749FE94F172F0FCB49A45@rileyPC>
References: <20120103233225.j1nx08khs68ggso4@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<F772CA2563CD4856BBEADC1643400C93@paul>
	<4CE79E5898C749FE94F172F0FCB49A45@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <008801cccbb6$3aafd4f0$b00f7ed0$@com>

Here's another product, originally developed for the aircraft industry. I've
known folks that have used a garden style sprayer to introduce this into
chassis cavities.

http://boeshield.com/



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 6:54 PM
To: Paul Hunt; ejrussell at mebtel.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis

How often does Waxol need to be reapplied?

Ron Sanborn

-----Original Message----- 
From: Paul Hunt
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 3:21 AM
To: ejrussell at mebtel.net ; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis

Best off with a purpose-made product like Waxoyl or similar rather than
paint.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Seeking opinions about painting the chassis of my MGA. The chassis is box 
> sections and of course the inside never received any rust-proofing/paint 
> etc in 1960. As I am finishing up the repairs needed I would like to get 
> something inside to preserve it for the next 50 years.
_______________________________________________

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Jan  5 10:26:12 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 09:26:12 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <AF16AEF5B1634B37B516A61B7E2EA504@paul>
Message-ID: <CB2B1D34.36F6F%mvheim@sonic.net>

on 1/5/12 1:04 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> Some say it is full of acids that will eat your chassis
> away, but forget it has just come out of your engine and soft-metal bearings

...and that is why you are supposed to change your oil at regular intervals.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jan  5 11:01:10 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 13:01:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <20120104221900.61t233njj5yc4gs0@webmail2.centurytel.net>
References: <20120104221900.61t233njj5yc4gs0@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <E1RisTL-0000DS-PU@epsilon.look.ca>

Eric,

Waxoyl will do the trick.  I tried it out on my MGB bare chassis - It 
came in two cans one of which had the applicator and a sort of 
wand.  But after a few attempts and warming the cans to get a good 
flow, I got a little jaded.  When the car was on the road I took it 
up to some place that claimed to be the original Krone but now better 
than all the others (heard that a few times !!!).  They shoved big 
long high powered wands in all over - the car that is - and all done 
in 1/2 hour.  Car dripped for days (cardboard under it)  Still creeps 
up the outside of the doors - and that is after 6 or more 
years.   The cost difference is minimal and I am sure these places do 
a better job than we can with their equipment.


At 10:19 PM 1/4/2012, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote:
>>Seeking opinions about painting (inside of) the chassis of my MGA.
>
>Thank you everyone for your replies. I don't know why I had not 
>considered Waxoyl. I'd had our '78 MGB treated with Waxoyl (car 
>since sold). It seems like Waxoyl (or perhaps the redneck/home made 
>version) applied with a garden sprayer & extended wands might do the job.
>Thanks for the reminder to check Barney Gaylord's site (which I do 
>regularly) and MG experience (which I do occasionally).
>Eric Russell
>Mebane, NC
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Jan  5 12:28:23 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 11:28:23 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <E1RisTL-0000DS-PU@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <CB2B39D7.36F8E%mvheim@sonic.net>

I am astonished that anyone is advocating this type of application prior to
painting. It would seem to me that it would be guaranteed to cause failure
of paint adhesion at any point to which the Waxoyl could "creep" (in other
words, any horizontal or vertical undercar surface).

I suppose the "dripping" side effect is tolerable in that it is only
duplicating the ubiquitous drivetrain oil drip. It would require a much
larger area of oil-absorbing matting, however.
 
--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 1/5/12 10:01 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> Eric,
> 
> Waxoyl will do the trick.  I tried it out on my MGB bare chassis - It
> came in two cans one of which had the applicator and a sort of
> wand.  But after a few attempts and warming the cans to get a good
> flow, I got a little jaded.  When the car was on the road I took it
> up to some place that claimed to be the original Krone but now better
> than all the others (heard that a few times !!!).  They shoved big
> long high powered wands in all over - the car that is - and all done
> in 1/2 hour.  Car dripped for days (cardboard under it)  Still creeps
> up the outside of the doors - and that is after 6 or more
> years.   The cost difference is minimal and I am sure these places do
> a better job than we can with their equipment.
> 
> 
> At 10:19 PM 1/4/2012, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote:
>>> Seeking opinions about painting (inside of) the chassis of my MGA.
>> 
>> Thank you everyone for your replies. I don't know why I had not
>> considered Waxoyl. I'd had our '78 MGB treated with Waxoyl (car
>> since sold). It seems like Waxoyl (or perhaps the redneck/home made
>> version) applied with a garden sprayer & extended wands might do the job.
>> Thanks for the reminder to check Barney Gaylord's site (which I do
>> regularly) and MG experience (which I do occasionally).
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC

> 
> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> barrie at look.ca
> 705-721-9060 

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jan  5 13:38:12 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 15:38:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <CB2B39D7.36F8E%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <E1RisTL-0000DS-PU@epsilon.look.ca>
	<CB2B39D7.36F8E%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <E1Riu4l-0006bA-7g@alpha.look.ca>

Oh dear -   No one in their right mind would squirt anything around 
and then try to paint !  Or would they?
Incidentally the drips were no big deal - and after a couple of weeks 
the cardboard under the car was not needed - this is not counting the 
sump and rear diff - but that has stopped too - .......you see adding 
cement to the oil WAS a good idea :-).


At 02:28 PM 1/5/2012, Max Heim wrote:
>I am astonished that anyone is advocating this type of application prior to
>painting. It would seem to me that it would be guaranteed to cause failure
>of paint adhesion at any point to which the Waxoyl could "creep" (in other
>words, any horizontal or vertical undercar surface).
>
>I suppose the "dripping" side effect is tolerable in that it is only
>duplicating the ubiquitous drivetrain oil drip. It would require a much
>larger area of oil-absorbing matting, however.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>
>
>on 1/5/12 10:01 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:
>
> > Eric,
> >
> > Waxoyl will do the trick.  I tried it out on my MGB bare chassis - It
> > came in two cans one of which had the applicator and a sort of
> > wand.  But after a few attempts and warming the cans to get a good
> > flow, I got a little jaded.  When the car was on the road I took it
> > up to some place that claimed to be the original Krone but now better
> > than all the others (heard that a few times !!!).  They shoved big
> > long high powered wands in all over - the car that is - and all done
> > in 1/2 hour.  Car dripped for days (cardboard under it)  Still creeps
> > up the outside of the doors - and that is after 6 or more
> > years.   The cost difference is minimal and I am sure these places do
> > a better job than we can with their equipment.
> >
> >
> > At 10:19 PM 1/4/2012, ejrussell at mebtel.net wrote:
> >>> Seeking opinions about painting (inside of) the chassis of my MGA.
> >>
> >> Thank you everyone for your replies. I don't know why I had not
> >> considered Waxoyl. I'd had our '78 MGB treated with Waxoyl (car
> >> since sold). It seems like Waxoyl (or perhaps the redneck/home made
> >> version) applied with a garden sprayer & extended wands might do the job.
> >> Thanks for the reminder to check Barney Gaylord's site (which I do
> >> regularly) and MG experience (which I do occasionally).
> >> Eric Russell
> >> Mebane, NC
>
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Barrie
> > barrie at look.ca
> > 705-721-9060
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jan  6 01:56:22 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 08:56:22 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Painting inside a chassis
References: <CB2B39D7.36F8E%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <62133142B0F2452C96744D43CF20A7F9@paul>

*Is* anyone advocating Waxoyling prior to painting?  I've never seen that 
recommended.  It needs to be clarified whether 'bare' means 'bare metal' or 
simply 'stripped' i.e. nothing yet attached to the painted shell.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I am astonished that anyone is advocating this type of application prior to
> painting. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jan  6 01:52:37 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 08:52:37 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
References: <CB2B1D34.36F6F%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <2EBD91E4BB1A443F94859FCF14E6E2B6@paul>

Quite.  But the point is that oil that has just come out of an engine after 
a regular routine change is hardly going to corrode your chassis away!

----- Original Message ----- 
>> Some say it is full of acids that will eat your chassis
>> away, but forget it has just come out of your engine and soft-metal 
>> bearings
>
> ...and that is why you are supposed to change your oil at regular 
> intervals.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jan  6 09:08:16 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 16:08:16 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Sectioned MGB
Message-ID: <D898F8199818401DB60047A4758B7919@paul>

Last  November Bob Muenchausen in America wondered if it would be possible to
get a series of close-ups of the sectioned MGB at Gaydon, to show some of the
many hidden assembly secrets as well as for interest.  As I live just
half-an-hour from the museum I contacted the curator, Stephen Lang, and
obtained his blessing.  The results can be found at
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/cutaway.htm and
http://www.cibolas7.net/resources/cutaway.htm

PaulH.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Fri Jan  6 09:41:05 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (Woerpel)
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 10:41:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Sectioned MGB
In-Reply-To: <D898F8199818401DB60047A4758B7919@paul>
References: <D898F8199818401DB60047A4758B7919@paul>
Message-ID: <4F072421.6080705@wi.net>

Now THAT is totally awesome!!  Thanks for all the hard work and TIME.  
I've been over the picture in books with a magnifier with little joy.
Thanks again Paul.
Regards,
Dave W.

On 1/6/2012 10:08 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
> Last  November Bob Muenchausen in America wondered if it would be possible to
> get a series of close-ups of the sectioned MGB at Gaydon, to show some of the
> many hidden assembly secrets as well as for interest.  As I live just
> half-an-hour from the museum I contacted the curator, Stephen Lang, and
> obtained his blessing.  The results can be found at
> http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/cutaway.htm and
> http://www.cibolas7.net/resources/cutaway.htm
>
> PaulH.

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Jan  6 10:45:45 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 09:45:45 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <2EBD91E4BB1A443F94859FCF14E6E2B6@paul>
Message-ID: <CB2C7349.36FF9%mvheim@sonic.net>

Maybe not, but it undoubtedly contains unhelpful substances that would not
be present in "fresh" petroleum products, such as Waxoyl and other
preparations. In that sense it seems like a questionable sort of
economizing. There is also possibly an environmental issue related to
dripping waste oil around town, though in all likelihood the MG is already
guilty of that.



on 1/6/12 12:52 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> Quite.  But the point is that oil that has just come out of an engine after
> a regular routine change is hardly going to corrode your chassis away!
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>>> Some say it is full of acids that will eat your chassis
>>> away, but forget it has just come out of your engine and soft-metal
>>> bearings
>> 
>> ...and that is why you are supposed to change your oil at regular
>> intervals.
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Jan  6 10:48:07 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 09:48:07 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Painting inside a chassis
In-Reply-To: <62133142B0F2452C96744D43CF20A7F9@paul>
Message-ID: <CB2C73D7.36FFB%mvheim@sonic.net>

Ah, I was interpreting somebody's use of "stripped" as meaning "paintless".
But I think that was what was meant, since they added that Waxoyl would
reach crevices that paint would "bridge over", which would not be relevant
if the Waxoyl was applied after the paint.



on 1/6/12 12:56 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> *Is* anyone advocating Waxoyling prior to painting?  I've never seen that
> recommended.  It needs to be clarified whether 'bare' means 'bare metal' or
> simply 'stripped' i.e. nothing yet attached to the painted shell.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I am astonished that anyone is advocating this type of application prior to
>> painting. 
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Fri Jan  6 12:47:48 2012
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 14:47:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sectioned MGB
In-Reply-To: <D898F8199818401DB60047A4758B7919@paul>
References: <D898F8199818401DB60047A4758B7919@paul>
Message-ID: <B31B4AD4-77FD-4480-9931-B38D3EECEC79@tampabay.rr.com>

Paul,
Just wanted to thank you for the immense technical information you  
provided with your photography of the MGB cutaway! What a reference to  
have.
Cheers,
Dave Houser



On Jan 6, 2012, at 11:08 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Last  November Bob Muenchausen in America wondered if it would be  
> possible to
> get a series of close-ups of the sectioned MGB at Gaydon, to show  
> some of the
> many hidden assembly secrets as well as for interest.  As I live just
> half-an-hour from the museum I contacted the curator, Stephen Lang,  
> and
> obtained his blessing.  The results can be found at
> http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/cutaway.htm and
> http://www.cibolas7.net/resources/cutaway.htm
>
> PaulH.
> _______________________________________________

From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Fri Jan  6 13:42:41 2012
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 12:42:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Switch
Message-ID: <1325882561.95229.YahooMailClassic@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have an issue after installing a new Moss ignition switch.  Not all of the
Moss wiring was the same color coding as the original.  Not sure but I think
this was good, at least at first, but not 100% sure.
 
While installing switch, started the car, on, off, start and key out and
locking mechanism good.  Started 5/6 times - thought good to go.  Cleaned up
wiring, broke off bolt heads attaching switch to steering column - rebuilt the
charcoal canister - OK lets go for a ride.
 
Make first stop for gas - ignition light, fuel pump comes on - turn to engage
starter nothing - no starter engagement.  Push start the car - get home - turn
key to off - car switches off, ignition light goes off, then starter engages
when in position to remove key.  Move key to position 1 to stop starter - then
disgusted - remove positive cable from battery and go drink a beer.
 
Any ideas as to what is causing this?  65 degrees today and Saturday - really
want to drive car.
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Jan  6 14:51:30 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 13:51:30 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Switch
In-Reply-To: <1325882561.95229.YahooMailClassic@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1325882561.95229.YahooMailClassic@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-Tpc-9K7BbqAfSk4bD8v9dMNB2bjDp49zA8ktXs8OGyJUg@mail.gmail.com>

Well if you started the car successfully after the install of the new
switch, and everything was normal, it sounds like the switch was installed
correctly.
This leaves you two options
1. New switch went FUBAR
2. During your drive, the wiring rubbed against something and created a
short.

Have fun!
Rick

On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 12:42 PM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I have an issue after installing a new Moss ignition switch.  Not all of
> the
> Moss wiring was the same color coding as the original.  Not sure but I
> think
> this was good, at least at first, but not 100% sure.
>
> While installing switch, started the car, on, off, start and key out and
> locking mechanism good.  Started 5/6 times - thought good to go.  Cleaned
> up
> wiring, broke off bolt heads attaching switch to steering column - rebuilt
> the
> charcoal canister - OK lets go for a ride.
>
> Make first stop for gas - ignition light, fuel pump comes on - turn to
> engage
> starter nothing - no starter engagement.  Push start the car - get home -
> turn
> key to off - car switches off, ignition light goes off, then starter
> engages
> when in position to remove key.  Move key to position 1 to stop starter -
> then
> disgusted - remove positive cable from battery and go drink a beer.
>
> Any ideas as to what is causing this?  65 degrees today and Saturday -
> really
> want to drive car.
>
> Thanks
> Joel Martin

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Fri Jan  6 17:24:15 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 16:24:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Sectioned MGB
In-Reply-To: <D898F8199818401DB60047A4758B7919@paul>
References: <D898F8199818401DB60047A4758B7919@paul>
Message-ID: <1325895855.61773.YahooMailNeo@web112115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 
 From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>

>Last  November Bob
Muenchausen in America wondered if it would be possible to
>get a series of
close-ups of the sectioned MGB at Gaydon, to show some of the
>many hidden
assembly secrets as well as for interest.  As I live just
>half-an-hour from
the museum I contacted the curator, Stephen Lang, and
>obtained his blessing. 
The results can be found at
>http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/cutaway.htm and
>http://www.cibolas7.net/resources/cutaway.htm



That is amazing.  There's a
similarly cut-up MGA somewhere.
Was it made for a car show?

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Jan  6 17:57:34 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 16:57:34 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Sectioned MGB
In-Reply-To: <1325895855.61773.YahooMailNeo@web112115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CB2CD87E.37061%mvheim@sonic.net>

Hmm, a sectioned MGA would not have the same novelty value. At least, I
would think that it was the innovative unibody construction of the MGB which
inspired this display.


on 1/6/12 4:24 PM, David Breneman at david_breneman at yahoo.com wrote:

>  
>  From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> 
>> Last  November Bob
> Muenchausen in America wondered if it would be possible to
>> get a series of
> close-ups of the sectioned MGB at Gaydon, to show some of the
>> many hidden
> assembly secrets as well as for interest.  As I live just
>> half-an-hour from
> the museum I contacted the curator, Stephen Lang, and
>> obtained his blessing.
> The results can be found at
>> http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/cutaway.htm and
>> http://www.cibolas7.net/resources/cutaway.htm
> 
> 
> 
> That is amazing.  There's a
> similarly cut-up MGA somewhere.
> Was it made for a car show?
> _______________________________________________

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Fri Jan  6 19:02:36 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:02:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Sectioned MGB
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1325876403.4449.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1325876403.4449.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4F07A7BC.6060008@comcast.net>

Paul, you are a genius. Thank you.

Glenn

On 1/6/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Sectioned MGB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jan  7 03:38:50 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 10:38:50 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Switch
References: <1325882561.95229.YahooMailClassic@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <63E8BF198C254552BF20D1C55F6237C7@paul>

It sounds like infant mortality.  I can understand a dodgy connection 
preventing it engaging the starter on the restart, but it would need at 
least two external faults to subsequently engage the starter when the key 
was removed as well.  However an internal malfunction could cause any number 
of interactions, which could be permanent or intermittent.

The switch and the lock are separate items, so it depends why you replaced 
the two i.e. if the old switch is still functioning you could use it 
dangling on the wires and still go for your ride.  If not, then it should 
just be a matter of joining brown to white for ignition, and touching 
white/red to those to crank.

I can sympathise with your desire to drive the car, half-way through 
restoring mine after stripping and welding but before paint I just had to 
drive it up the road and back even though it had no lights, chrome or 
interior - I taped the dual oil/temp gauge to the steering column and sat on 
the floor hanging onto the wheel so I could reach the pedals.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Any ideas as to what is causing this?  65 degrees today and Saturday - 
> really
> want to drive car.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Jan  7 14:55:02 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:55:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
Message-ID: <201201072155.q07Lt0FC013440@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

This is a test posting, but if it goes through I may need some help 
negotiating with the list server.  I have been trying on and off for 
five days to post a reply to the message with this subject line.  The 
messages seem to send okay, and I do not get any bounce message, but 
the messages do not echo back on the mailing list.  I have been 
getting other messages from the list.

I have tried everything I can think of.  I checked with 
team.net/mailman to be sure I was still subscribed.  I even 
unsubscribed and re-subscribed, and it still doesn't work.  If this 
message makes it through I will be (pleasantly) surprised.  And if 
so, then I may need to ask why this message makes it while others do not.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Sat Jan  7 15:25:36 2012
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 17:25:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <201201072155.q07Lt0FC013440@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
References: <201201072155.q07Lt0FC013440@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <DF2881D7238B4A50BD63B26547226111@stargate>

Yup, 'fraid ya gotta ask Barney.

gb

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 4:55 PM
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild

> This is a test posting, but if it goes through I may need some help 
> negotiating with the list server.  I have been trying on and off for five 
> days to post a reply to the message with this subject line.  The messages 
> seem to send okay, and I do not get any bounce message, but the messages 
> do not echo back on the mailing list.  I have been getting other messages 
> from the list.
>
> I have tried everything I can think of.  I checked with team.net/mailman 
> to be sure I was still subscribed.  I even unsubscribed and re-subscribed, 
> and it still doesn't work.  If this message makes it through I will be 
> (pleasantly) surprised.  And if so, then I may need to ask why this 
> message makes it while others do not.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Jan  7 16:55:24 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 17:55:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 56, Issue 7
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1325962805.15368.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1325962805.15368.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4F08DB6C.8070901@comcast.net>

On 1/7/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> From: "Paul Hunt"<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> To: "Joel Martin"<jmartiniii at yahoo.com>,<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Switch
> Message-ID:<63E8BF198C254552BF20D1C55F6237C7 at paul>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> Bits deleted for brevity...
>
> I can sympathise with your desire to drive the car, half-way through
> restoring mine after stripping and welding but before paint I just had to
> drive it up the road and back even though it had no lights, chrome or
> interior - I taped the dual oil/temp gauge to the steering column and sat on
> the floor hanging onto the wheel so I could reach the pedals.

Yes! I did that! And the engine bay still hasn't got body color. But it gets me to work every day.

Glenn "I'll get to that someday" Schnittke

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Sat Jan  7 20:42:36 2012
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 22:42:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Flat towing
Message-ID: <656qaHDpK5456S01.1325994156@web01.cms.usa.net>

Just completed another flat-tow of the MGB from Massachusetts to Indiana this
time, as I've relocated for a new job. The state seems to want to see the car
and check that the "VIN" matches the paperwork before they will register it,
for some reason. Working in two different states I always seem to have the
wrong car in the wrong state.

After an initial problem with the brake-pedal not being "springy" enough to
push back against the "Brake Buddy" towing brake actuator (to unbrake after a
stop), all went well. I learned that using a finger through the spokes to
check the temperature of the brake drum is a bad idea...

I also learned that you get much better gas mileage if the parking brake
lever
on the "toad" isn't bumped and accidentally left partly applied -- that left
one (??) of the rear drums slightly warm.

On one previous tire purchase I ended up with some directional "light truck"
Viking brand "mud and snow" tires as an attempt at approximation of the
stickiness and sidewall stiffness of the original tires, and I've still got
two of them on the car. As it happened, I picked the only snowy day of the
month to pick up the car, and wouldn't you know it but the "snow" tires had
been rotated to the front wheels. Made me feel a bit silly...

For those new or inattentive, my rig for flat-towing is the Harbor Fright
"5000-lb-capacity-adjustable-tow-bar" bolted through a piece of angle-iron to
the front bumper support brackets, and magnetic stick-on towing lights that I
stick to the C-pillar, supported by the fenders so that they don't
slide-around when I hit a bump. Last spring I surprisingly won an ebay action
(with a very low bid) for a Brake-Buddy supplemental braking system, so that
has become part of the kit.

Douglas
'70 BGT
Now in Bloomington Indiana -- Club recommendations?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jan  8 04:03:03 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 11:03:03 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
References: <201201072155.q07Lt0FC013440@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <EF0635D74527417893380B829774B811@paul>

As you probably know by now this got through, but no others on this subject 
from you have reached me, at any rate.

----- Original Message ----- 
> This is a test posting, but if it goes through I may need some help 
> negotiating with the list server.... 

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Sun Jan  8 10:39:01 2012
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (sdesalvo at frontiernet.net)
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 17:39:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] engine noise
Message-ID: <1619575936.286090.1326044340985.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>

I know this is a question for a vast number of answers, but here goes. I am just looking for a starting point. My '78 MGB has an engine noise which sounds like a valve needing adjustment. I have adjusted them 3 times, but the noise is as bad as ever. I am not sure what to look at next. Any ideas you can pass along?
Sam

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Sun Jan  8 10:58:47 2012
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 11:58:47 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] engine noise
In-Reply-To: <1619575936.286090.1326044340985.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
References: <1619575936.286090.1326044340985.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <B30B563EEF344D4F8E54D1FB2271A913@YOURF3E40984A8>

Have you done a compression test?

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sdesalvo at frontiernet.net
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 11:39 AM
To: mg list
Subject: [Mgs] engine noise

I know this is a question for a vast number of answers, but here goes. I am
just looking for a starting point. My '78 MGB has an engine noise which
sounds like a valve needing adjustment. I have adjusted them 3 times, but
the noise is as bad as ever. I am not sure what to look at next. Any ideas
you can pass along?
Sam

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Jan  8 11:24:42 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 12:24:42 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

I gave up on uploading these two messages to the team.net server, and 
I posted them on my web site.  See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt102a.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt102b.htm

Barney


At 07:57 PM 1/2/2012 -0500, Thompson Allan wrote:
>....
>.... I am wondering if anyone has a master-plan for a strip down to 
>the frame and a
>full rebuild?
>....

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sun Jan  8 11:58:40 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 12:58:40 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] stromberg tuning/repair?
In-Reply-To: <20111231.205408.23385.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20111231.205408.23385.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4F09E760.9090603@ktc.com>

Why did you go through all that?  Looks to me that your '75 B is exempt.

CR

On 12/31/2011 7:54 PM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:
> To get my 1975 Stromberg equipped MGB to pass emissions in Connecticut
> required carb and ignition settings that made the engine suffer so that it
> could barely power the car to the testing station.
> First thing I would recommend is to set the timing. It may be quite retarded
> as that is what we had to do. Retarded spark causes the engine to be powerless
> and to run hot.
> Remove a couple of spark plugs. Are they grey / hot looking? If they are,
> richen the mix, with a barely perceptible tun of the mixture screw. Check the
> book foi "in" or "out" as I forget now which richens the mixture.
> Also look carefully at the intake manifold to see if any rubber hoses or the
> line to the brake booster have blown off from backfiiring.
> Be of good cheer; it's much easier to get it running right again than to get
> it to pass emissions.
> Bob
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Aubrey Schneider"<aschneider at shaw.ca>
> To: "mg list"<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] stromberg tuning/repair?
> Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2011 12:22:06 -0800
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have been lurking on&  off for a while, observing the concern about
> traffic.
>
> Maybe this will  help.
>
> I need to do a complete retuning of my Stromberg. From the height of the
> butterfly ( don't know what else to call ) to timing&  finally the setting of
> the carb. As age overtakes me, I'm not able to follow the manual.
>
> Here is the problem. A "well versed garage" took it upon them selves, at my
> request to get the 75 B thru'Aircare. (smog control) they got it passed but
> when attempting to bring back the performance side, they gave me back a B
> that
> misses constantly, has no power up hills&  overheats ( steam billowing from
> the rad), doesn't start for a long time while cranking. Oil in the dash pot
> always.
>
> Is there someone out there who would be prepared to help  me set this carb up
> for both performance&  reasonable fuel consumption.
>
> I live in North Vancouver BC Canada so any local help would really be
> appreciated.
>
> Best wishes&  a healthy New Year.
> ps.I have a timing light etc.
> Aubrey
> 75 BE
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From don at napanet.net  Sun Jan  8 12:13:21 2012
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 11:13:21 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] engine noise
In-Reply-To: <1619575936.286090.1326044340985.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.
	roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
References: <1619575936.286090.1326044340985.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <20120108191344.4B14D1878E1@autox.team.net>

Once the engine is warmed up, take the rocker cover off and start the 
engine.  You might put a few rags around to catch drops of oil that 
are scattered.  Watch the rockers and see if anything looks 
strange.  Then take a .015 feeler gauge and insert it one by one and 
listen to find out if it is valve noise and which one becomes quiet 
if it is valve noise.

  Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1973 MGB GT (selling)
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars


At 09:39 AM 1/8/2012, sdesalvo at frontiernet.net wrote:
>I know this is a question for a vast number of answers, but here 
>goes. I am just looking for a starting point. My '78 MGB has an 
>engine noise which sounds like a valve needing adjustment. I have 
>adjusted them 3 times, but the noise is as bad as ever. I am not 
>sure what to look at next. Any ideas you can pass along?
>Sam
>_______________________________________________

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jan  8 12:25:57 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 12:25:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>

Barney Gaylord wrote:
> I gave up on uploading these two messages to the team.net server,

Why?  What were you doing and what was the problem?

mjb.

From strovato at optonline.net  Sun Jan  8 12:40:59 2012
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 14:40:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sectioned MGB
In-Reply-To: <CB2CD87E.37061%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <1325895855.61773.YahooMailNeo@web112115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CB2CD87E.37061%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <0LXH00G3OW233AO0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Do you mean the innovative unibody construction like my 1955 ZA 
Magnette?  :-)  Sorry, we Magnette folks can't let stuff like that 
slip by.  It's our contract.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 07:57 PM 1/6/2012, Max Heim wrote:
>Hmm, a sectioned MGA would not have the same novelty value. At least, I
>would think that it was the innovative unibody construction of the MGB which
>inspired this display.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Jan  8 13:36:05 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 14:36:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

Doing as always, send a message to mgs at autox.team.net

Unfortunately these two messages refused to go through the server, 
although the primary recipient did get his copy through his private 
email address.  So for sure the message was launched properly and 
cleared through my outgoing mail server.  Four tries in four days, 
and still no go.  I don't know if it may have something to do with 
size of the messages, as they are 7K and 15K.

I will try to send mjb a copy of these messages to his private 
address without the list.  Perhaps he will be able to find some issue with it.

Barney


At 12:25 PM 1/8/2012 -0700, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>Barney Gaylord wrote:
>>I gave up on uploading these two messages to the team.net server,
>
>Why?  What were you doing and what was the problem?
>
>mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jan  8 13:47:02 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:47:02 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
	<201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com>

Once again I'll reiterate.  The email lists DO NOT ALLOW attachments.
One can go to http://www.team.net/forums ( link also below ) and
register.  Once you get your username and password you can post
pictures.  Then send a short note to the email list informing folks.

Personally I wish the forum was used all the time instead of email,
but that ain't gonna happen.  Oh well.


mjb.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Jan  3 14:45:34 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 15:45:34 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild - (part 1)
In-Reply-To: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201201040134.q041YCs2023243@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

Thinking about the other respondent's remarks about possibly not 
removing the body, this may go a little astray of your essential 
question.  So the short answer to a very long explanation is, start 
reading here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/restore.htm

A lot depends on your final objective for restoration work.  If you 
intend to do it on the cheap to have quicker gratification for a car 
that won't last as long, then bondo over the outer body sills and 
repaint the outside (and don't ever open the bonnet in public).  Some 
people even paint it in assembly, including painting over the piping 
(which is a huge tactical mistake).

To go a little nicer you need to at least loosen the fender bolts 
enough to remove the piping while it get painted, and install new 
piping after painting.  You also need to remove the engine long 
enough to clean up and paint the engine bay.  Of course remove all 
exterior trim and lighting fixtures, and the windscreen assembly 
before painting the body.  Also take enough time to clean and paint 
inside the wheel wells where it can be seen from outside.

Assuming the inner body sills are rusted out (and most of them are), 
and you intend to replace the failed metal, then you start by 
removing all fenders and doors (and bumpers and front valance panel 
and all lighting fixtures).  If the frame is in good enough condition 
to be still rigid (which most of them are), then you can cut away 
rusted body sills and replace that body metal while the body remains 
on the frame to retain original alignment of the doors.  Take the 
door off in the process, but mark all hinges and latch parts and any 
shims to be reinstalled in the original order.  If you paint what is 
accessible and then reassemble it from there, then may be called a 
"body-on restoration".  The problem here is that you never gain 
access to clean and paint surfaces that are between the body and 
frame, and you will never get to paint the inside of the body sills 
next to the frame.  End result is, a car that either cannot be driven 
in the rain, or will be expected to rust out again in the not too 
distant future.

If you go as far as replacing and and all rusted sheet metal in the 
body sills and lower door posts, then you are not too far away from 
having body-off restoration.  There are about two dozen bolts, the 
master cylinder, brake lines, heater, and half a day or so to remove 
the body from the frame.  It only takes about one day to put the body 
properly back on the frame later.  While the body is off, you have 
the opportunity to clean and paint the inboard sides of the body 
sills and everything else you can't get at with the body in 
situ.  Having done that, you may have properly painted and "pickled" 
the car so it may last for decades more without rusting out 
again.  And you can also drive it in the rain with some expectation 
that it will still be a whole car many years later rather than 
needing another complete restoration some time down the road.

The real kicker to the bottom line here is the final market 
value.  Difference in final value between a body-on restoration and a 
body-off restoration may be around $10,000 (or more), and in general 
it does not cost that much to do this additional work.  So for anyone 
going as far as replacing sheet metal in the body sills, it is a good 
economic proposition to R&R the body and do a full body-off 
restoration rather than short cutting it to save time.

You may realize there are substantial differences in cost and benefit 
between the first paragraph and the last.  It is not necessarily a 
good idea to spend lots of money in places where it may have little 
return on the investment.  If the car is in need of a full 
restoration (and some sheet metal replacement), then fresh paint and 
carpet alone might be a total waste of money, is it may all need to 
be done again a short time later as part of the full restoration.  So 
it behooves you to do a good inspection and analysis of the car 
before you start, and decide very early on what work you will and will not do.

I love to tell people, if you buy an MGA that has never had a 
body-off restoration, you get to do it.  Otherwise you will be 
passing on the restoration job to someone else in the near future, 
likely selling it for less than what you have invested.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an atttiude
http://MGAguru.com


At 07:57 PM 1/2/2012 -0500, Allan Thompson wrote:
>....
>I have had a 1960 MGA for a few years - nut haven't had the money 
>nor the time to tackle a rebuild.... but 2012 should allow some of 
>both... so I am wondering if anyone has a master-plan for a strip 
>down to the frame and a full rebuild?
>
>I plan to have the engine tuned by professionals (with the 
>crank-shaft being balanced) and the bodywork and trim also done by 
>professionals.
>
>I would like to get down to the frame to have it powder coated and 
>work from there - but if anyone has a master plan that would be 
>great! I do have several MG A Books and did complete an MGB rebuild 
>a number of years ago - but that was easier because I started with a 
>new shell which I had sprayed then sat it side by side with the donor car.
>
>For instance, some of the panels have small dings and dents... 
>should I take these off and get them prepared and painted before 
>reassembly? Should I take the engine out before I take the panels off?
>....

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Jan  3 18:34:11 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 19:34:11 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild - (part 2)
In-Reply-To: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201201040134.q041YCs4023243@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

At 07:57 PM 1/2/2012 -0500, Thompson Allan wrote:
>....
>I have had a 1960 MGA .... I am wondering if anyone has a 
>master-plan for a strip down to the frame and a full rebuild?
>....

As a more direct answer, here comes a proposed sequence for the 
work.  First thought is to take lots of pictures as you disassemble 
things so you recall how it should go back together later.

Strip off all external trim, bumpers, lighting fixtures, interior 
kick panels and windscreen.  Remove bonnet, boot lid, front valance 
panel, fenders and doors, keeping all door hinges and latch parts and 
any shims in original order for later reassembly.

The next step assumes the frame is still solid enough to be straight 
so it will serve as the alignment jig for the body.  Get right into 
removing rocker panels and cutting away any rusted sheet metal in the 
body sills and lower door posts, as far up as necessary to get rid of 
anything that is rusted thin or gone.  Buy or make replacement sheet 
metal parts, and rebuild the body sills and door posts and inner 
fenders as required.  This is dirty work.  The essence of rebuilding 
the MGA body is to start in the middle and build the body around the 
doors.  When repairing door posts, keep the doors close at hand to 
assure proper construction and alignment of the posts so the doors 
will ultimately fit and work properly.   An important point here is 
interface of four body mounting points, one each fore and aft of the 
doors on each side.  Find a complete section of my web site detailing 
body sill replacement.

You may also need to rebuild the boot floor if necessary, and smooth 
out the rear valance panel.  If the heater shelf is rusted out, then 
remove the engine for better access for that repair.  If the front 
end of the body needs work, then also do that while the body is still 
on the chassis.

When you have a complete and solid main body shell, then you can 
remove the body from the frame and set it on a pair of saw horses for 
additional work.  The main body shell weighs about 200 pounds, so it 
is possible to lift off with two healthy people, and one person may 
be able to tip it up on it side or set it down flat for subsequent 
work. When the body sills and door posts are in good condition the 
body is very strong and needs no bracing during handling.  Pick it up 
and handle it any way you like with any number of people or with a 
hoist.  Some people may piece together a body rotisserie, but it not 
required, as the MGA body shell will sit nicely at 90 degrees on its 
side sitting on the door posts.  With the body off you can clean up 
welds and other things inside and underneath the body.  It will be 
good to get at least as far as having the main body shell in primer paint.

At that point in time the body and chassis can be physically 
separated into different premisses for independent work, and do 
whichever you like first.  Since there will be lots of dirt and dust 
around for a long time, I suggest doing the chassis first so it is 
finished and clean with a drop cloth over it before you are painting 
the body.  My advice here is to store the engine out of the way and 
forget about it until near the end of the project.  An engine rebuild 
ties up a lot of money that doesn't need to be spent until later, and 
a freshly rebuilt engine may not fare well if it sits around idle for 
some years before it may be used.  For my first restoration the 
engine was the very last thing to be finished, and the day it was 
reassembled and installed I took the car for its maiden run on the expressway.

Chassis restoration is fairly straight forward stuff, as it is mostly 
structural and not much cosmetic.  Maybe remove the floor and tunnel 
and hand brake parts while the chassis is still on the 
wheels.  Gearbox, propshaft, rear axle and front suspension and all 
service lines come off in about one day.  At that point the bare 
frame becomes a project of its own separate from the rest of the 
chassis parts, and about this time you may wish you had a split 
personality and could work on several things at once.  You will spend 
lots of time cleaning and painting things.  Plan on lots of dirty work clothes.

The frame will likely need some welding work, especially around the 
battery carriers, floor rails, and inboard surfaces next to the floor 
boards.  As said, structural work, cut it, weld it, clean the welds 
up, and paint the thing.  Suspension parts are mostly cleaning and 
painting, replacing some bushings and rubber bits, and get it all 
reassembled.  If you think I'm trying to make it sound easy, I 
am.  It is mostly time consuming grunt work, but if you get into the 
mode of trying to make everything perfectly beautiful for concours 
show, all bets are off on calendar pages.

The gearbox is apart in half a day and back together in half a day 
when you have the parts in hand (only a few hours total for 
me).  Propshaft is mostly clean and paint, and maybe replace a 
U-joint or two.  Rear axle will be clean and paint, replace seals and 
gaskets, and maybe you need to replace differential thrust washers, 
and install Speedy-Sleeves for the the hub seals.  Leaf springs only 
disassemble if you want to concours pretty with painting, other wise 
replace bushings, clean and paint the springs.  Rear shock absorbers 
often need nothing more than clean and paint, and maybe replace the 
link with the rubber inset ball joint.  Reassemble rear axle and leaf 
springs with new rubber pads and shackle bushings.  Clean and paint 
fuel tank and mounting straps, reinstall with new packing rubber, 
fiddle with the fuel pump, fuel lines and brake pipes.  Find all the 
details on my web site.

Front suspension is a little more "tactical".  Front shocks may need 
to be rebuilt if they leak (farm it out, not a home shop 
job).  Swivel links may need new bi-metal bushings, some swivel links 
or swivel pins might need to be replaced if badly worn (rusted in the 
threads in a prior life).  Cleaning, painting, new rubber seals, 
repacking wheel bearings, and reassembly, all pretty simple 
stuff.  Rebuilding all of the brakes all around might be a day job or 
a week, depending on condition and parts needed.  The master cylinder 
may or may not need to be sleeved.  Steering rack usually only needs 
clean, paint, new seals and 6 ounces of gear oil, sometimes a couple 
of brass dampers and some shims, and maybe new tie rods ends.  I am 
somewhat optimistic about a lot of this, as I know the car was 
previously in driving condition.

Clean and paint the tunnel parts, some of which may need a little 
rust cutting and welding repair.  Buy or make new floor boards (find 
templates on my web site), sealed and painted, and get them installed 
(and sealed to the frame), along with the hand brake on the 
tunnel.  Gearbox and propshaft install any time, before or after the 
tunnel (but do put the rear mount bolt in from the correct side so it 
can be removed with tunnel in place).  You have some pedal parts to 
attend to whenever you get around to it.

Back to the body, go after repairs of fenders and other outer body 
panels, replacement of the outer rocker panel to match the door 
alignment.  Remember again, doors first, then match up the rocker 
panels and then mate the fenders for proper door gaps.  A huge part 
of appearance and impression of an MGA is fit and function of the 
doors, so take plenty of time to get it right.

Get all of the outer body panel repair work done so the body is test 
assembled before you even think about painting anything.  Most of the 
possible quality of a final paint job starts with the quality of 
preparation, surface finishing and primer of the outer body 
panels.  No cheating here.  Do not bondo over any rust or cracks.  Be 
sure the front grill fits well on the body nose before you transition 
from welding to priming.  Ditto for all of the exterior lighting 
fixtures and trim parts that will touch the paint.

Most people, with enough time and patience, can do a decent job of 
outer body panel repair and surface finishing.  This is mostly a 
matter of deciding early on that you want a good job, and don't leave 
big dents and lots of bondo.  When you are getting close to final 
smooth, it is time to decide if your personal skills are good enough 
for your expectations and desired final results.  Otherwise farm out 
the final surface finishing work and painting to a pro shop.

Up to this point, most of the restoration involves lots of grunt work 
and sweat equity, and not a lot of out of pocket expense.  Figure a 
couple hundred dollars for gearbox parts, a hundred (or two) for 
front suspension and steering parts, a couple hundred dollars in 
chassis paint (unless you going for powder coating everything), a few 
hundred dollars in cutting, welding and cleaning supplies, and 
anywhere from a double saw buck ($20) to a thousand dollars for inner 
body sheet metal (depending on whether you buy panels of form your 
own).  A body nose surround panel or a new fender would kill your 
tight budget.  But if you do it right, you may have a rolling chassis 
less engine and a body in primer paint for under $5000 in restoration 
cost.  The tab for me leading up to 1986 was about $2000 (and six 
hundred hours of grunt work).

After this you will need a fatter check book to pay for body 
painting, engine rebuilding, lots of interior and exterior trim parts 
required for reassembly (and I know I didn't mention side curtains), 
wheels and tires.  A huge portion of the expense comes after the 
chassis is rolling and the body is in primer, when you are about to 
reassemble it.

While the body is out for paint you may have time to restore the 
heater box, pedal box and pedal parts, and anything else that goes 
into the engine bay or in the cockpit.  Dash instruments and switches 
may want a touch up or repair.  Dash panel, splash panels, lower body 
trim strips, fuel tank and mounting parts and other little bits need 
painting by someone.  Decide what you will do about wheels (and tires 
later).  Time to rebuild the seats?  You really couldn't be everywhere at once.

Around the time that the body will be back from the paint shop, it 
may be time to disassemble the engine and send the component parts 
out for machine work.  As long as you're dealing with a pushrod 
engine the machining work should be done in a few weeks, parts are 
readily available, and it can be reassembled promptly.  Find a series 
of articles on my web site about engine rebuilding.

Reassembly is the fun part, and you can wear white gloves much of the 
time if you like.  Clean the shop well as a treat.  Engine may be 
installed any time, before or after the body.

The body may be almost entirely assembled on the sawhorses, including 
most of the wiring harness (side harness goes under the frame), 
lighting fixtures (not the grille yet).  Or drop the bare inner body 
onto the frame first (two people), followed by installation of the 
outer panels and external fixtures and trim.  Body goes onto the 
chassis with appropriate packing, some caulking, and a couple dozen 
bolts in one day.

After body is assembled and on the chassis, you get to install any 
interior insulation, under dash pad (recommended), carpet padding, 
carpeting, battery cover, spare tire cover(s), boot carpeting 
(optional but nice).  Be prepared to get a little sticky with glue 
for a day or two.  Center arm rest is supposed to be part of the 
tunnel rear carpet section.

Install any electrical devices that get screwed to the firewall, 
including the heater and wiper drive parts.  Pedal assemblies might 
wait until after carpeting.  The windscreen needs to be installed 
before the front kick panels.  Rear splash panels and cockpit trim 
rolls need to be installed before the rear kick panels, rag top frame 
after the rear kick panels, and side curtain stowage bag along with 
the rear trim roll.  Door top trim rolls need to be installed before 
door pockets and door panels, and side curtain attachment plates 
after door panels.

After carpeting, install the dash assembly (and after front trim roll 
for convenience).  The dash can be assembled and 3/4 wired on the 
work bench.  Then sit on the tunnel with dash on your knees while 
doing the main harness connections to the dash.  Install dash to body 
with three top screws and four bottom braces.  Include heater control 
(if fitted), other control cables, and finally the safety gauge which 
requires lines run through the firewall.  Install seats and steering 
column, side curtains, tonneau cover, convertible top.

Somewhere near the end, install oil cooler (if fitted) and 
horn(s).  Be sure the bonnet latch works before final installation of 
the grille, then the front valance panel and all bumper parts (while 
you curse a lot).  If not done earlier, the engine may be installed 
last.  A new engine will require a cam run-in session of 20 minutes 
at 2500 rpm, followed by re-torque the cylinder head and readjust valve lash.

If you have done it all right, you may take your number one squeeze 
along for the test drive.  For me the first time out of the garage 
was once around the block to be sure everything works, followed by a 
20 mile loop on the expressway and a stop for breakfast (after the 
all night session to install the engine).

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com 

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Jan  8 16:16:36 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 18:16:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
	<201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
	<4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <E1Rk1yg-0005cl-LY@theta.look.ca>

Mark,

I do have some experience with Forum vs Email.    Forums suck unless 
one wants to chat and browse with no particular question in mind.  I 
started the Aston Martin Feltham Club (www.AMFClub.com) because the 
AMOC was so expensive and does little in the technical side.  So I 
have gathered a group of enthusiasts with the same Aston that I 
have.  This allows us to correspond back and forward and as a result 
we have solved many problems.  With forums you have to keep signing 
on (and having to remember a user name etc), but with email - BAM it 
arrives !!!  The Aston Martin Owners Club is very upset with me and 
maintains the Forum is the way to go - but my experience with 
team.net and several forums - the team.net wins all hands down.  As a 
for instance, I need a pressure switch for my master brake cylinder - 
so I sent out an email to my membership (much the same idea as 
team.net except tons of MGs but few DB 2/4s).  I had a reply from a 
member with part number and using Copernic I found the cheapest 
supplier for the Lucas part - elapsed time ????   31 minutes.   I got 
a call from AMOC saying I should use the AMOC forum which I did, 
omitting to say I already had ordered a part.  As of today (I 
accessed the AMOC forum today) there is no reply to my AMOC plea !!!

Forums are complex, fussy, and not in real time ...."oh, god grief, I 
forgot to go to the forum AGAIN"  Go look at the AMOC forum and see 
how complex it is ....and for no apparent reason except some techy 
sold them on all the "features" the software package 
had  ...............and rarely used

Your team.net system is far far the best ever and don't you forget it


At 03:47 PM 1/8/2012, you wrote:
>Once again I'll reiterate.  The email lists DO NOT ALLOW attachments.
>One can go to http://www.team.net/forums ( link also below ) and
>register.  Once you get your username and password you can post
>pictures.  Then send a short note to the email list informing folks.
>
>Personally I wish the forum was used all the time instead of email,
>but that ain't gonna happen.  Oh well.
>
>
>mjb.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Jan  8 16:50:38 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 23:50:38 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] stromberg tuning/repair?
Message-ID: <20120108.185038.6055.3@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

Alas, it was not exempt in 1985, when i brought it into the Nutmeg State, or
for another decade.
BTW, by the time of its  last emissions test, something/somethings had changed
sufficiently so that it would pass without all the efforts.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] stromberg tuning/repair?
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 12:58:40 -0600

Why did you go through all that?  Looks to me that your '75 B is exempt.

CR

On 12/31/2011 7:54 PM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:
> To get my 1975 Stromberg equipped MGB to pass emissions in Connecticut
> required carb and ignition settings that made the engine suffer so that it
> could barely power the car to the testing station.
> First thing I would recommend is to set the timing. It may be quite
retarded
> as that is what we had to do. Retarded spark causes the engine to be
powerless
> and to run hot.
> Remove a couple of spark plugs. Are they grey / hot looking? If they are,
> richen the mix, with a barely perceptible tun of the mixture screw. Check
the
> book foi "in" or "out" as I forget now which richens the mixture.
> Also look carefully at the intake manifold to see if any rubber hoses or
the
> line to the brake booster have blown off from backfiiring.
> Be of good cheer; it's much easier to get it running right again than to
get
> it to pass emissions.
> Bob
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Aubrey Schneider"<aschneider at shaw.ca>
> To: "mg list"<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] stromberg tuning/repair?
> Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2011 12:22:06 -0800
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have been lurking on&  off for a while, observing the concern about
> traffic.
>
> Maybe this will  help.
>
> I need to do a complete retuning of my Stromberg. From the height of the
> butterfly ( don't know what else to call ) to timing&  finally the setting
of
> the carb. As age overtakes me, I'm not able to follow the manual.
>
> Here is the problem. A "well versed garage" took it upon them selves, at my
> request to get the 75 B thru'Aircare. (smog control) they got it passed but
> when attempting to bring back the performance side, they gave me back a B
> that
> misses constantly, has no power up hills&  overheats ( steam billowing from
> the rad), doesn't start for a long time while cranking. Oil in the dash pot
> always.
>
> Is there someone out there who would be prepared to help  me set this carb
up
> for both performance&  reasonable fuel consumption.
>
> I live in North Vancouver BC Canada so any local help would really be
> appreciated.
>
> Best wishes&  a healthy New Year.
> ps.I have a timing light etc.
> Aubrey
> 75 BE
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Jan  8 16:54:17 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 23:54:17 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] engine noise
Message-ID: <20120108.185417.6055.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

  Don's is good advice, as it helps to identify a rocker that may have a
groove worn in.
  The feeler will bridge the groove when setting the clearance, but then the
groove wear plus the .0015 will cause extra noise.
Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Don <don at napanet.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] engine noise
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 11:13:21 -0800

Once the engine is warmed up, take the rocker cover off and start the
engine.  You might put a few rags around to catch drops of oil that
are scattered.  Watch the rockers and see if anything looks
strange.  Then take a .015 feeler gauge and insert it one by one and
listen to find out if it is valve noise and which one becomes quiet
if it is valve noise.

  Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1973 MGB GT (selling)
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars


At 09:39 AM 1/8/2012, sdesalvo at frontiernet.net wrote:
>I know this is a question for a vast number of answers, but here
>goes. I am just looking for a starting point. My '78 MGB has an
>engine noise which sounds like a valve needing adjustment. I have
>adjusted them 3 times, but the noise is as bad as ever. I am not
>sure what to look at next. Any ideas you can pass along?
>Sam
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Jan  8 17:02:46 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 18:02:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
	<201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
	<4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <201201090002.q0902fDV011655@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

Mark,

I don't know what you did or how you did it, but thanks for getting 
those two tough posts to appear.

Barney

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jan  8 17:08:24 2012
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 18:08:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <E1Rk1yg-0005cl-LY@theta.look.ca>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
	<201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
	<4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com> <E1Rk1yg-0005cl-LY@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4F0A2FF8.6000803@sbcglobal.net>

I agree with Barrie.  The few forums I have tried ended up being way too 
much like Facebook - mostly social stuff and inside comments that had 
absolutely no meaning to me.
Charles Hill

On 1/8/2012 5:16 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I do have some experience with Forum vs Email.    Forums suck unless 
> one wants to chat and browse with no particular question in mind.  I 
> started the Aston Martin Feltham Club (www.AMFClub.com) because the 
> AMOC was so expensive and does little in the technical side.  So I 
> have gathered a group of enthusiasts with the same Aston that I have.  
> This allows us to correspond back and forward and as a result we have 
> solved many problems.  With forums you have to keep signing on (and 
> having to remember a user name etc), but with email - BAM it arrives 
> !!!  The Aston Martin Owners Club is very upset with me and maintains 
> the Forum is the way to go - but my experience with team.net and 
> several forums - the team.net wins all hands down.  As a for instance, 
> I need a pressure switch for my master brake cylinder - so I sent out 
> an email to my membership (much the same idea as team.net except tons 
> of MGs but few DB 2/4s).  I had a reply from a member with part number 
> and using Copernic I found the cheapest supplier for the Lucas part - 
> elapsed time ????   31 minutes.   I got a call from AMOC saying I 
> should use the AMOC forum which I did, omitting to say I already had 
> ordered a part.  As of today (I accessed the AMOC forum today) there 
> is no reply to my AMOC plea !!!
>
> Forums are complex, fussy, and not in real time ...."oh, god grief, I 
> forgot to go to the forum AGAIN"  Go look at the AMOC forum and see 
> how complex it is ....and for no apparent reason except some techy 
> sold them on all the "features" the software package had  
> ...............and rarely used
>
> Your team.net system is far far the best ever and don't you forget it

From cgmoog at optonline.net  Sun Jan  8 17:46:48 2012
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog)
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 19:46:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild (Lists with some spam added)
In-Reply-To: <E1Rk1yg-0005cl-LY@theta.look.ca>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
	<201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
	<4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com> <E1Rk1yg-0005cl-LY@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4F0A38F8.6020902@optonline.net>

Absolutely.

While I rarely post here (my cars are hibernating at the moment) I do 
read all the subjects and about half the e-mails and get a good sense of 
the people and whats going on.  I also belong to a British motorcycle 
e-mail ( 
https://listserv.indiana.edu/cgi-bin/wa-iub.exe?SUBED1=BRIT-IRON-L&A=1   
) and a Vermont Ski e-mail list (  
http://www.uvm.edu/skivt-l/?Page=.%2Faboutlist.html&dir=.   )  and both 
are the best and easiest way to keep up with what is going on in both 
worlds.  Some of my other interested are only handled by Forums and that 
is in my opinion a much inferior way of communicating.


On 1/8/2012 6:16 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Mark,
>
>
> Forums are complex, fussy, and not in real time ...."oh, god grief, I 
> forgot to go to the forum AGAIN"  Go look at the AMOC forum and see 
> how complex it is ....and for no apparent reason except some techy 
> sold them on all the "features" the software package had  
> ...............and rarely used

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Jan  8 18:36:10 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 17:36:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4F0A2FF8.6000803@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CABrxh4EpngVCS5fjTxiosjhgzo1r-7nfpPXoXi1r6Vo8o4X4HA@mail.gmail.com>
	<201201081824.q08IOjGb022540@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<4F09EDC5.5030805@bradakis.com>
	<201201082036.q08Kambi003722@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
	<4F0A00C6.1090703@bradakis.com> <E1Rk1yg-0005cl-LY@theta.look.ca>
	<4F0A2FF8.6000803@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1326072970.59528.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you want to see both the positive side and negative side to a forum, spend
a day or two on The MGB Experience website. Lots
of great info, but also a lot
of nastiness, especially to newbies and teenagers, as well as plenty of inside
jokes and people who
think you're interested in their personal lives.

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Charles
Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, January 8,
2012 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
 
I agree with Barrie.  The few
forums I have tried ended up being way too much like Facebook - mostly social
stuff and inside comments that had absolutely no meaning to me.
Charles Hill
On 1/8/2012 5:16 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Mark,
> 
> I do have some
experience with Forum vs Email.    Forums suck unless one wants to chat and
browse with no particular question in mind.  I started the Aston Martin
Feltham Club (www.AMFClub.com) because the AMOC was so expensive and does
little in the technical side.  So I have gathered a group of enthusiasts with
the same Aston that I have.  This allows us to correspond back and forward and
as a result we have solved many problems.  With forums you have to keep
signing on (and having to remember a user name etc), but with email - BAM it
arrives !!!  The Aston Martin Owners Club is very upset with me and maintains
the Forum is the way to go - but my experience with team.net and several
forums - the team.net wins all hands down.  As a for instance, I need a
pressure switch for my master brake cylinder - so I sent out an email to my
membership (much the same idea as team.net except tons of MGs but few DB
2/4s).  I had a reply from a member with
 part number and using Copernic I found the cheapest supplier for the Lucas
part - elapsed time ????   31 minutes.   I got a call from AMOC saying I
should use the AMOC forum which I did, omitting to say I already had ordered a
part.  As of today (I accessed the AMOC forum today) there is no reply to my
AMOC plea !!!
> 
> Forums are complex, fussy, and not in real time ...."oh,
god grief, I forgot to go to the forum AGAIN"  Go look at the AMOC forum and
see how complex it is ....and for no apparent reason except some techy sold
them on all the "features" the software package had  ...............and rarely
used
> 
> Your team.net system is far far the best ever and don't you forget
it
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Jan  8 19:01:47 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 02:01:47 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
Message-ID: <20120108.210147.19634.1@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

  I have failed so many times to get into that forum that I have stopped
trying. It was, however,interesting and helpful when I succeeded.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net>, "mgs at autox.team.net"
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 17:36:10 -0800 (PST)

If you want to see both the positive side and negative side to a forum, spend
a day or two on The MGB Experience website. Lots
of great info, but also a lot
of nastiness, especially to newbies and teenagers, as well as plenty of
inside
jokes and people who
think you're interested in their personal lives.

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Charles
Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, January 8,
2012 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Rebuild

I agree with Barrie.  The few
forums I have tried ended up being way too much like Facebook - mostly social
stuff and inside comments that had absolutely no meaning to me.
Charles Hill
On 1/8/2012 5:16 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I do have some
experience with Forum vs Email.    Forums suck unless one wants to chat and
browse with no particular question in mind.  I started the Aston Martin
Feltham Club (www.AMFClub.com) because the AMOC was so expensive and does
little in the technical side.  So I have gathered a group of enthusiasts with
the same Aston that I have.  This allows us to correspond back and forward
and
as a result we have solved many problems.  With forums you have to keep
signing on (and having to remember a user name etc), but with email - BAM it
arrives !!!  The Aston Martin Owners Club is very upset with me and maintains
the Forum is the way to go - but my experience with team.net and several
forums - the team.net wins all hands down.  As a for instance, I need a
pressure switch for my master brake cylinder - so I sent out an email to my
membership (much the same idea as team.net except tons of MGs but few DB
2/4s).  I had a reply from a member with
 part number and using Copernic I found the cheapest supplier for the Lucas
part - elapsed time ????   31 minutes.   I got a call from AMOC saying I
should use the AMOC forum which I did, omitting to say I already had ordered
a
part.  As of today (I accessed the AMOC forum today) there is no reply to my
AMOC plea !!!
>
> Forums are complex, fussy, and not in real time ...."oh,
god grief, I forgot to go to the forum AGAIN"  Go look at the AMOC forum and
see how complex it is ....and for no apparent reason except some techy sold
them on all the "features" the software package had  ...............and
rarely
used
>
> Your team.net system is far far the best ever and don't you forget
it
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jan  9 02:00:41 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 09:00:41 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] engine noise
References: <1619575936.286090.1326044340985.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <21743D2245C3404893718CA371CD404B@paul>

Whereabouts is it coming from?  Have you used a listening tube over the 
engine to try and narrow it down?  Removed the oil filler cap and listened 
there?  Does it change with revs or load?  Temperature?  How do you adjust 
the valves?  If you use the rule of nine both my engine and a pals have some 
valves that don't have their biggest gap at the adjustment point, but some 
way either side of that.  Adjusting at the point of biggest gap did quieten 
mine a little.  But there is still and always has been what sounds like one 
heavy tappet - constant noise with different load, just speeds and slows 
with revs.  I've had all the valve gear off except the cam out and haven't 
been able to find anything wrong, including the shaft loose in its bearings. 
It's been doing that for 22 years and 50k so it's just 'an undocumented 
feature'.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I know this is a question for a vast number of answers, but here goes. I am 
>just looking for a starting point. My '78 MGB has an engine noise which 
>sounds like a valve needing adjustment. I have adjusted them 3 times, but 
>the noise is as bad as ever. I am not sure what to look at next. 

From normcay at volcano.net  Thu Jan 12 12:05:55 2012
From: normcay at volcano.net (Norman Cay)
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2012 11:05:55 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] title information needed
Message-ID: <4F0F2F13.2020502@volcano.net>

I am trying to get a 1953 MG TD titled in California. It has been off 
the road for about 20 years and I am in need of information.
Can someone scan a California title or registration so that I can get 
the correct nomenclature for the application. (I do not need names or 
addresses although I would keep them absolutely confidential)

For example, the CA title I have for my Austin Healey calls it a SPTRDS 
(Sports Roadster probably) who knows.

Also the Vehicle Identification Number, is it the car number on the 
firewall placard or the engine No, The CA DMV does not seem to want to 
help me get through this.

Thanks in advance,
Norm Cay

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Jan 13 22:55:07 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2012 22:55:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
Message-ID: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>

Century Link is now the name of the company that used to be called Qwest.
They do telecommunications, internet such as Team.Net's DSL connection,
and now various entertainment products.  They spent a lot of money 
advertising
the change, and how they are so committed to customer service, blah blah 
blah.

I, personally, didn't think that much would change.

Be that as it may, the little green light on my trusty Cisco 678 DSL modem
is once again brightly lit, bits are flowing once again.

I do apologize for the delays, inconvenience and frustration those of you
addicted to your Team.Net fix may have suffered.

mjb.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Jan 13 09:23:28 2012
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2012 10:23:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] hardtops  and wheels for sale
Message-ID: <001401ccd20f$afdc1400$0f943c00$@com>

I have 2 hardtops for sale.

 

The first  is a BMC factory Bugeye hardtop, in excellent condition. White.
Nice paint, glass, seals, etc. 

 

The second is a BMC factory MKII Sprite/MK I hardtop in good condition.
These seem to be quite hard to find.

 

Lastly, I have a set of 4 original 13" Sprite/Midget Minilite magnesium
wheels, that were bead blasted & painted, in excellent condition.

 

Items are located in Wisconsin.

 

Please contact me off list to discuss further.

 

WST

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 14 11:19:55 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 10:19:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>


> Century Link is now the name of
the company that used to be called Qwest.
> They do telecommunications,
internet such as Team.Net's DSL connection,
> and now various entertainment
products.  They spent a lot of money advertising
> the change, and how they
are so committed to customer service, blah blah blah.

Century Link, formerly
CenturyTel, has been my phone company for
about 10 years.  They bought out PTI
communications, which bought
out Telephone Utilities of Washington, which
bought out Island
Empire Telephone, which bought out...  etc., etc.

They
originally specialized in rural markets.  My market was rural
when I was a
kid.  We had a 20-party line and didn't get Touch
Tone until the early 90s. 
We had the last operating Stromberg-
Carlson step-by-step switch in the
country.  But now it seems
they've jumped into the big leagues by buying some
former Baby
Bells.  I've found the service to be fine, but I've never lived
on
the Bell System so I don't have much to compare it to.

But whatever happens,
I'm not giving up my Ericofon!  :-)

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sat Jan 14 12:06:14 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 11:06:14 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] title information needed
In-Reply-To: <4F0F2F13.2020502@volcano.net>
Message-ID: <CB371226.3735A%mvheim@sonic.net>

It isn't the engine number, I can tell you that.

The VIN for my 1966 MGB is shown as 66GHN3L76XXX, which is the number on the
plate plus "66" added onto the front, for some reason (this is how it
appeared on the previous title --- I didn't do it). I wouldn't make this
assumption -- I would use the factory number.

Body type is "RD".

The form has changed over the years -- I am looking at one issued in 1989,
and another issued in 2006.



on 1/12/12 11:05 AM, Norman Cay at normcay at volcano.net wrote:

> I am trying to get a 1953 MG TD titled in California. It has been off
> the road for about 20 years and I am in need of information.
> Can someone scan a California title or registration so that I can get
> the correct nomenclature for the application. (I do not need names or
> addresses although I would keep them absolutely confidential)
> 
> For example, the CA title I have for my Austin Healey calls it a SPTRDS
> (Sports Roadster probably) who knows.
> 
> Also the Vehicle Identification Number, is it the car number on the
> firewall placard or the engine No, The CA DMV does not seem to want to
> help me get through this.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Norm Cay

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sat Jan 14 14:19:11 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 13:19:11 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] title information needed
In-Reply-To: <CB371226.3735A%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <4F0F2F13.2020502@volcano.net> <CB371226.3735A%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyO9=p06y9MK60eH-+J9i+wqmsOzpii-5VkAAhXJ57NNXw@mail.gmail.com>

Max,

The VIN for my MGA is the engine number. According to Clausager, this was
quite common for MGAs in California. However, I don't think there is any
reason for this. In fact I believe it is possible to get the VIN number
changed to the body number.

So I think that either the engine number or the body number can be used for
the VIN -- it just has  to be an identifying  number that the DMV  (or
perhaps the CHP) can see on the car when you take it to finalize the title.

Simon

On Sat, Jan 14, 2012 at 11:06 AM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:

> It isn't the engine number, I can tell you that.
>
> The VIN for my 1966 MGB is shown as 66GHN3L76XXX, which is the number on
> the
> plate plus "66" added onto the front, for some reason (this is how it
> appeared on the previous title --- I didn't do it). I wouldn't make this
> assumption -- I would use the factory number.
>
> Body type is "RD".
>
> The form has changed over the years -- I am looking at one issued in 1989,
> and another issued in 2006.
>
>
>
> on 1/12/12 11:05 AM, Norman Cay at normcay at volcano.net wrote:
>
> > I am trying to get a 1953 MG TD titled in California. It has been off
> > the road for about 20 years and I am in need of information.
> > Can someone scan a California title or registration so that I can get
> > the correct nomenclature for the application. (I do not need names or
> > addresses although I would keep them absolutely confidential)
> >
> > For example, the CA title I have for my Austin Healey calls it a SPTRDS
> > (Sports Roadster probably) who knows.
> >
> > Also the Vehicle Identification Number, is it the car number on the
> > firewall placard or the engine No, The CA DMV does not seem to want to
> > help me get through this.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Norm Cay
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jan 14 18:45:00 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 19:45:00 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>
	<1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>

But WHEN..............

<<  On 1/14/2012 12:19 PM, David Breneman wrote:
             We had a 20-party line and didn't get TouchTone
             until the early 90s. >>

did you  get a Private Line,  Dave ?!?!?

<< I'm not giving up my Ericofon! >>

Is that some sort of "new" driver for the "Prancing Horse Chaps ? ?"

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Jan 14 19:22:03 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 02:22:03 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] title information needed
Message-ID: <20120114.212203.15119.2@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

   The. TD has a chassis number stamped into the left dumb iron. That number
is also on the brass plate. It is not unknown for plates to be changed. Let's
hope that the numbers on dumb iron and plate agree, but if they don't, I would
go for the number on the chassis.
   I must confess that, in my dissolute youth, I was unable to find the engine
number on a 220Sb Mercedes, so gave DMV the firing order that was visible in
raised numbers one the cam cover.  DMV accepted it!
   Here's hoping you find a reasonable person behind the counter when you are
there.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
Cc: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] title information needed
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 13:19:11 -0800

Max,

The VIN for my MGA is the engine number. According to Clausager, this was
quite common for MGAs in California. However, I don't think there is any
reason for this. In fact I believe it is possible to get the VIN number
changed to the body number.

So I think that either the engine number or the body number can be used for
the VIN -- it just has  to be an identifying  number that the DMV  (or
perhaps the CHP) can see on the car when you take it to finalize the title.

Simon

On Sat, Jan 14, 2012 at 11:06 AM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:

> It isn't the engine number, I can tell you that.
>
> The VIN for my 1966 MGB is shown as 66GHN3L76XXX, which is the number on
> the
> plate plus "66" added onto the front, for some reason (this is how it
> appeared on the previous title --- I didn't do it). I wouldn't make this
> assumption -- I would use the factory number.
>
> Body type is "RD".
>
> The form has changed over the years -- I am looking at one issued in 1989,
> and another issued in 2006.
>
>
>
> on 1/12/12 11:05 AM, Norman Cay at normcay at volcano.net wrote:
>
> > I am trying to get a 1953 MG TD titled in California. It has been off
> > the road for about 20 years and I am in need of information.
> > Can someone scan a California title or registration so that I can get
> > the correct nomenclature for the application. (I do not need names or
> > addresses although I would keep them absolutely confidential)
> >
> > For example, the CA title I have for my Austin Healey calls it a SPTRDS
> > (Sports Roadster probably) who knows.
> >
> > Also the Vehicle Identification Number, is it the car number on the
> > firewall placard or the engine No, The CA DMV does not seem to want to
> > help me get through this.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Norm Cay
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jan 15 03:06:56 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 10:06:56 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] title information needed
References: <4F0F2F13.2020502@volcano.net> <CB371226.3735A%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<CAEUYfyO9=p06y9MK60eH-+J9i+wqmsOzpii-5VkAAhXJ57NNXw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CBF28F46F5D744FDB9A244CC95E8ABB0@paul>

I don't know about MGAs, but on MGBs the body number is different to the 
chassis number/VIN.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The VIN for my MGA is the engine number. According to Clausager, this was
> quite common for MGAs in California. However, I don't think there is any
> reason for this. In fact I believe it is possible to get the VIN number
> changed to the body number.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 15 07:09:42 2012
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 06:09:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Catching up & OT
Message-ID: <1326636582.53825.androidMobile@web181015.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Hey Friends,

Seems like forever since we 'spoke'.  I guess that's what
happens when a guy sells his MG.  Still, I miss you guys.

Not a lot has
changed in my world down here in Houston.  I still have my collection of
sports, classics and exotics.  They're the fun, rolling part of my diversified
retirement portfolio.  Doing better than my 401(k) too, if less liquid.

The
most recent project is an '89 Ferrari Mondial T.  The car belongs to a friend
with minimal mechanical skills.  He bought it about three weeks ago, in sad
condition but running - kinda.  One of the MAFs (FI air flow meters) was
shorted out so the car was running on half an engine, the leather was filthy
and the  the paint was oxidized and dull.

Today its running on all 8
cylinders, the leather is clean and fed with Leatherique and the paint has
been polished back to a high gloss.  We now have to replace the CATs so it
will pass emissions testing (younger than 25 years), repair a tear in the
driver's seat and refinish the leather, then touch up the rock chips before
applying wax.

This has been a fun project, if a little costly for the owner. 
Working on it has me thinking about getting an MG again, but this time, a
T-series.  I have a pristine TR3b that I have grown tired of.  Perhaps its
time to sell it and buy a nice rust-free T project.  Know of one available? 
Please PM me if you do...

Regards,

Rick Lindsay in south Texas

Sent on
Android / DroidX

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Jan 15 08:23:34 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 16:23:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone near Colorado Springs?
Message-ID: <E8EF37F6BB8E45798D042C2E8A37BCED@uw471de61b465c>

Hi listers,

Sometimes I have the opportuity to visit the US, where most of the listers 
reside.
So at the end of February I'll be for a week near Colorado Springs.
http://www.cheyennemountain.com/ will be the place where I'll stay and I 
wonder, if any lister is nearby, so we perhaps could meat.
So I expect to be there starting on the February 25th sometime. No flight 
details known.

Cheers,

Hans Duinhoven
71 BGT 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Jan 15 09:04:17 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 10:04:17 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Catching up & OT
In-Reply-To: <1326636582.53825.androidMobile@web181015.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1326636582.53825.androidMobile@web181015.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2C4AA90C-2358-42AD-9A42-9700D826002F@gmail.com>

Good to here from you Rick.  We've missed you too.

The Mondial sounds like a fun project.

I don't have a lead on anything sorry. But keep us all in the loop.

On Jan 15, 2012, at 8:09 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Hey Friends,
>
> Seems like forever since we 'spoke'.  I guess that's what
> happens when a guy sells his MG.  Still, I miss you guys.
>
> Not a lot has
> changed in my world down here in Houston.  I still have my collection of
> sports, classics and exotics.  They're the fun, rolling part of my
diversified
> retirement portfolio.  Doing better than my 401(k) too, if less liquid.
>
> The
> most recent project is an '89 Ferrari Mondial T.  The car belongs to a
friend
> with minimal mechanical skills.  He bought it about three weeks ago, in sad
> condition but running - kinda.  One of the MAFs (FI air flow meters) was
> shorted out so the car was running on half an engine, the leather was
filthy
> and the  the paint was oxidized and dull.
>
> Today its running on all 8
> cylinders, the leather is clean and fed with Leatherique and the paint has
> been polished back to a high gloss.  We now have to replace the CATs so it
> will pass emissions testing (younger than 25 years), repair a tear in the
> driver's seat and refinish the leather, then touch up the rock chips before
> applying wax.
>
> This has been a fun project, if a little costly for the owner.
> Working on it has me thinking about getting an MG again, but this time, a
> T-series.  I have a pristine TR3b that I have grown tired of.  Perhaps its
> time to sell it and buy a nice rust-free T project.  Know of one available?
> Please PM me if you do...
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lindsay in south Texas
>
> Sent on
> Android / DroidX
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 15 09:48:10 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 08:48:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>
	<1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: "" Just Brits " Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>


> But WHEN..............
> 
> <<  On 1/14/2012 12:19 PM, David Breneman wrote:
>              We had a
20-party line and didn't get TouchTone
>              until the early 90s. >>
> 
> did you  get a Private Line,  Dave ?!?!?

My parents finally got a
private line in the late 70s when
someone new moved into the neighborhood who
left his phone
off the hook when he went to bed!  (By then it was about a
six
party line)  My mom was frequently on call for the local
blood bank and had to
drive to a pay phone to return pages.
I think my dad got a lawyer to send a
firmly worded letter
to the phone company and they gave my parents a private
line
within a couple weeks, and WITHOUT charging the per-mile
rate from the
switch.

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Sun Jan 15 10:03:18 2012
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 11:03:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com><1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>
	<1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8>

Here in the (US) Interior Highlands we got private lines in 1992, a couple
of years after the PSC-mandated deadline to the phone companies to provide
such. They had to first replace all of the original (1940s) cable, which had
lost much of its insulation, allowing for howling connections. Prior to the
updates our phones would often announce approaching thunderstorms by ringing
sporadically. 

I don't miss the party lines, but within our exchange you could ring another
number by just dialing the last four digits.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Breneman
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 10:48 AM
To: " Just Brits " Shop; Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] That was festive!

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 15 10:08:57 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 09:08:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com><1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>
	<1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8>
Message-ID: <1326647337.54629.YahooMailNeo@web112119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

> I don't miss the party lines, but within our exchange you could ring
another
> number by just dialing the last four digits.

Same here.  You could
also dial other phones within our local area
with just 5 digits - the last
digit of the exchange and the four
of the number.  You could even make your
own phone ring by dialing
your number and hanging up.  Very handy when
unwanted solicitors
came to the door.  "Dear, it's for you!" "Oh my, gotta
go!"

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Sun Jan 15 11:20:58 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 13:20:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
Message-ID: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>

I just picked up a pair of them.  Can't seem to remember anyone mentioning
they had one on this list.  Looks like they will be fun to rebuild... can't
get interior kits, etc. There's nothing like a moss catalog for them.  Will
have to learn a few new skills!

From bispmotala at hotmail.com  Sun Jan 15 11:38:26 2012
From: bispmotala at hotmail.com (Ulla & Sven Ordell)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 19:38:26 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
In-Reply-To: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY157-ds18D209AD641D0F090F4CA4DD820@phx.gbl>

Hi
Google 1100 club and you ll find the British club for them. Used to be very
helpful in the days when I had several 1100/1300 s.
Regards
Sven
Sweden

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Fvr
John Elwood
Skickat: den 15 januari 2012 19:21
Till: mgs at autox.team.net
Dmne: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?

I just picked up a pair of them.  Can't seem to remember anyone mentioning
they had one on this list.  Looks like they will be fun to rebuild... can't
get interior kits, etc. There's nothing like a moss catalog for them.  Will
have to learn a few new skills!
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/bispmotala at hotmail.com

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 15 11:56:13 2012
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 10:56:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
In-Reply-To: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1326653773.27134.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I don't have an 1100 but I've seen a few of them at shows.  I always thought
they looked really nice and would be a good choice for a daily driver.

A
quick Google search and it appears one company sells some parts:
http://www.7ent.com

I would imagine there are suppliers in the UK as well.
Regards,
Matt M.
'74 MGB-GT
Willow Grove, PA
________________________________
 From: John Elwood <mgmagnette at aol.com>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 1:20 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Anyone have an MG 1100?
 
I just picked up a pair of them.  Can't seem to
remember anyone mentioning
they had one on this list.  Looks like they will be
fun to rebuild... can't
get interior kits, etc. There's nothing like a moss
catalog for them.  Will
have to learn a few new skills!
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mmilkevitch at yahoo.com

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 15 12:01:38 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 11:01:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
In-Reply-To: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1326654098.92191.YahooMailNeo@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: John Elwood <mgmagnette at aol.com>


> I just picked up a pair of them. 
Can't seem to remember anyone mentioning
> they had one on this list.  Looks
like they will be fun to rebuild... can't
> get interior kits, etc. There's
nothing like a moss catalog for them.  Will
> have to learn a few new skills!
A friend of mine had one in high school.  Lots of fun, and seated
5
comfortably (of course, we were all skinny high school kids).
For some reason,
I ended up with the carburetors off it.  I think
he put on a larger set us
SUs.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Jan 15 14:51:26 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 15:51:26 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
In-Reply-To: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <201201152151.q0FLpOBJ005727@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

I bought an Austin America new in 1969.  That was the 1275cc version 
of the MG 1100 with optinal automatic transmission.  All were 
spin-offs from the first Mini.  I had a second one for a short while 
a few years later.  The hydroelastic suspension was very nice with 
very good combination of soft ride and crisp handling.  13" wheels 
and no overdrive gear, so top speed was about 85 mph, but it was 
happy doing it all day long.  Rack and pinion steering, front disc 
brakes, all inovative stuff still rare on American cars in the late 60's.

It was a very interesting automatic gearbox, 4-speed plus reverse, 
fully automatic or manully selecte any of the gears.  Could be towed 
or push started in 2nd gear, and could be towed long distance without 
running, as it had a supplimentary oil pump on the output shaft.  The 
gears were configured like two differentials, one inside of the 
other.  It had three bands and two clutches.  A little study reveals 
that with 4 bands and 3 clutches the same gear set could give six 
speeds frward and two speeds in reverse.  I overhauled a few of those 
automatic gearboxes (they were a bit weak in bands and 
clutches).  The engine was essentially same as MG MIdget 1275 except 
sitting transverse with single carburetor.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 01:20 PM 1/15/2012 -0500, John Elwood wrote:
>I just picked up a pair of them.  Can't seem to remember anyone 
>mentioning they had one on this list.  Looks like they will be fun 
>to rebuild... can't get interior kits, etc. There's nothing like a 
>moss catalog for them.  Will have to learn a few new skills!

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Sun Jan 15 15:22:59 2012
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:22:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
In-Reply-To: <1326653773.27134.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
	<1326653773.27134.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7062B7063361488A86565FE524128D03@user5284c665dc>

The 1100 and 1300 are part of the North American MGB Register

See http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr/mg1100.html

Rick 


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 1:56 PM
To: John Elwood; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?

I don't have an 1100 but I've seen a few of them at shows.  I always thought
they looked really nice and would be a good choice for a daily driver.

A
quick Google search and it appears one company sells some parts:
http://www.7ent.com

I would imagine there are suppliers in the UK as well.
Regards,
Matt M.
'74 MGB-GT
Willow Grove, PA
________________________________
 From: John Elwood <mgmagnette at aol.com>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 1:20 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Anyone have an MG 1100?
 
I just picked up a pair of them.  Can't seem to
remember anyone mentioning
they had one on this list.  Looks like they will be
fun to rebuild... can't
get interior kits, etc. There's nothing like a moss
catalog for them.  Will
have to learn a few new skills!
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mmilkevitch at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgrick at mgcars.org.uk

From montejane at gmail.com  Sun Jan 15 21:31:03 2012
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 22:31:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] wooden dash template
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHo+H=vu+e7CvkOr0HXLxjQanbtKQ6519cAQ5WMBzkkKkQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'm still lurking:). Took the 79 B on a 300 mile trip the past two days. It
ran great, as usual.

I'm going to panel the interior of the B with oak to match the oak drink
console that I made years back.
I'm in need of a template for the wooden dash inlay kit that several
companies sell. Does anyone know where I can get a template for one that
will fit the 79?

Desmogged 79B with dual HIF,s and a points dizzy

Thanks,
Monte

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jan 16 01:35:32 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 08:35:32 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com><1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com><1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8>
	<1326647337.54629.YahooMailNeo@web112119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B387082E39BC4D8EACB4AD3D88B77877@paul>

I remember being able to pick up the phone and just ask for who I wanted, 
and if they had gone to a friends house the call was put through to there 
instead :o)

----- Original Message ----- 
>> I don't miss the party lines, but within our exchange you could ring
> another
>> number by just dialing the last four digits.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Jan 16 08:23:21 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 09:23:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <B387082E39BC4D8EACB4AD3D88B77877@paul>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>
	<1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>
	<1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8>
	<1326647337.54629.YahooMailNeo@web112119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B387082E39BC4D8EACB4AD3D88B77877@paul>
Message-ID: <201201161523.q0GFNOu8003343@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

Yup, been there.  With the  panel board switching system you had call 
forwarding, three way or conference calling, voice messaging, certain 
secretarial services, and very efficient emergency communications services.

We were out of town for a few days once, and on return home there was 
a half hour pause before the phone rang and the operator had the 
messages we missed while we were gone.  Everyone knew when we got 
home, but the operator would wait half an hour to let us get settled 
in before calling.

Many times you didn't even have to call the operator to set up call 
forwarding.  If you went to your neighbors house your calls would 
automatically be routed there, because everyone knew where you went 
without calling the oprerator.  When the school bus was running late 
in a winter storm there was constant update down the line so you 
always knew where the bus was, and the kids didn't have to wait too 
long outside in the snow.

We once had a fire in the old farm house.  I picked up the phone, 
gave my name, said we had a fire, and hung up;  The fire siren in 
town went off before I got the phone back on the hook, the fire truck 
was there, 5 miles out of town in 7 minutes, and a dozen firemen and 
neighbors were there before the truck arived.  All this with an 
unattended fire house and well dispersed all volunteer fire 
department (and one 10 second phone call).

When I was young, my mother had a heart attack a few minutes after us 
kids got on the school bus in the morning.  Dad picked up the phone, 
said we need the family doctor right now, and hung up.  Operator 
called the right doctor in the county seat three towns away and 
doctor immediately hopped in his car and started driving at breakneck 
speed.  Operator called the preacher at our church.  His wife had 
their car, so he walked a block to the highway to wave down the 
doctor as he was passing through town and hitched a ride.  Not bad 
for primitive phone service.

My dad cried when they installed the dial system in 1968, and all of 
the special services disappeared.  Yes, dialing four digits would 
call anyone in town.  One prefix digit plus four digits would call 
anyone in the surrouding towns.  I don't think we had area codes in 
those days, so we still had to dial "0" for anything more than about 
25 miles away.  I don't remember ever dialing seven digits untill I 
moved into the big city where there were multiple switching 
exchanges.  I think it was decades later before they got call 
forwarding back again.  I still keep the old battery powered crank 
phone as a momento.


At 08:35 AM 1/16/2012 +0000, Paul Hunt wrote:
>I remember being able to pick up the phone and just ask for who I 
>wanted, and if they had gone to a friends house the call was put 
>through to there instead :o)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>>I don't miss the party lines, but within our exchange you could 
>>>ring another number by just dialing the last four digits.

From scvc70 at epix.net  Mon Jan 16 10:37:48 2012
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 12:37:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com><1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com><1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8><1326647337.54629.YahooMailNeo@web112119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><B387082E39BC4D8EACB4AD3D88B77877@paul>
	<201201161523.q0GFNOu8003343@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <28658554DAF04AD89593C5273FA8A027@valuedea617bbe>

Loved the stories!  Where did you grow up?  (We had a party line when I was 
young, but no such helpful local operator.........)

Sarah Carr
'71 B/GT in (rural) PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
To: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; "David Breneman" 
<david_breneman at yahoo.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] That was festive!


> Yup, been there.  With the  panel board switching system you had call 
> forwarding, three way or conference calling, voice messaging, certain 
> secretarial services, and very efficient emergency communications 
> services.
>
> We were out of town for a few days once, and on return home there was a 
> half hour pause before the phone rang and the operator had the messages we 
> missed while we were gone.  Everyone knew when we got home, but the 
> operator would wait half an hour to let us get settled in before calling.
>
> Many times you didn't even have to call the operator to set up call 
> forwarding.  If you went to your neighbors house your calls would 
> automatically be routed there, because everyone knew where you went 
> without calling the oprerator.  When the school bus was running late in a 
> winter storm there was constant update down the line so you always knew 
> where the bus was, and the kids didn't have to wait too long outside in 
> the snow.
>
> We once had a fire in the old farm house.  I picked up the phone, gave my 
> name, said we had a fire, and hung up;  The fire siren in town went off 
> before I got the phone back on the hook, the fire truck was there, 5 miles 
> out of town in 7 minutes, and a dozen firemen and neighbors were there 
> before the truck arived.  All this with an unattended fire house and well 
> dispersed all volunteer fire department (and one 10 second phone call).
>
> When I was young, my mother had a heart attack a few minutes after us kids 
> got on the school bus in the morning.  Dad picked up the phone, said we 
> need the family doctor right now, and hung up.  Operator called the right 
> doctor in the county seat three towns away and doctor immediately hopped 
> in his car and started driving at breakneck speed.  Operator called the 
> preacher at our church.  His wife had their car, so he walked a block to 
> the highway to wave down the doctor as he was passing through town and 
> hitched a ride.  Not bad for primitive phone service.
>
> My dad cried when they installed the dial system in 1968, and all of the 
> special services disappeared.  Yes, dialing four digits would call anyone 
> in town.  One prefix digit plus four digits would call anyone in the 
> surrouding towns.  I don't think we had area codes in those days, so we 
> still had to dial "0" for anything more than about 25 miles away.  I don't 
> remember ever dialing seven digits untill I moved into the big city where 
> there were multiple switching exchanges.  I think it was decades later 
> before they got call forwarding back again.  I still keep the old battery 
> powered crank phone as a momento.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Jan 16 11:25:20 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 12:25:20 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <28658554DAF04AD89593C5273FA8A027@valuedea617bbe>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>
	<1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>
	<1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8>
	<1326647337.54629.YahooMailNeo@web112119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B387082E39BC4D8EACB4AD3D88B77877@paul>
	<201201161523.q0GFNOu8003343@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<28658554DAF04AD89593C5273FA8A027@valuedea617bbe>
Message-ID: <201201161825.q0GIPIv3013409@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

The farm was a few miles north of New Windsor, in western Illinios, 
half way between Moline and Galesburg, not far from the Mississippi 
river.  Not exacrly the middle of nowhere, but 20 miles away from 
sizeable cities in any direction.  Growing up around farm machinery 
did a lot for my mechanical aptitude and my hands on approach to the 
MGA (which was my first car).

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 12:37 PM 1/16/2012 -0500, Sarah Carr (Carr&Edwards) wrote:
>Loved the stories!  Where did you grow up?  (We had a party line 
>when I was young, but no such helpful local operator.........)
>....


>----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
>To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 10:23 AM
>....
>>Yup, been there.  With the  panel board switching system you had 
>>call forwarding, three way or conference calling, voice messaging, 
>>certain secretarial services, and very efficient emergency 
>>communications services.
>>....
>>My dad cried when they installed the dial system in 1968, and all 
>>of the special services disappeared.  .... I still keep the old 
>>battery powered crank phone as a momento.

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 16 15:33:53 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 14:33:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] That was festive!
In-Reply-To: <201201161825.q0GIPIv3013409@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
References: <4F1118BB.9010603@bradakis.com>
	<1326565195.81897.YahooMailNeo@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4F122F9C.8070000@justbrits.com>
	<1326646090.57099.YahooMailNeo@web112114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<A69B120F78D54F29BF1B0480A514C910@YOURF3E40984A8>
	<1326647337.54629.YahooMailNeo@web112119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B387082E39BC4D8EACB4AD3D88B77877@paul>
	<201201161523.q0GFNOu8003343@nlpi129.prodigy.net>
	<28658554DAF04AD89593C5273FA8A027@valuedea617bbe>
	<201201161825.q0GIPIv3013409@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <1326753233.22145.YahooMailNeo@web112104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 
I live in the house my grandparents bought in 1946.  When they first
moved
here, they had a friend who was an independent businessman who
lived across
the bay.  Since he had the only house near there, the
phone company ran the
line through my grandparents' yard and across
the bay to their friend's
house.  But after a few years, the salt
water ate into the insulation and the
line would short out at high
tide.  The operator's recourse was to call my
Grandmother and give
her the message.  Sometimes his calls were from East
Coast bigwigs
and they were totally perplexed to hear "We can't put your call
through because the tide is in - but we can connect you to his
friends across
the bay."

10 years ago I had a new bulkhead put in, and they dug up that
old
phone line on the beach!  Yeah, the insulation was pretty
far gone. :-)

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 17 06:36:50 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 05:36:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
In-Reply-To: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CEA1C98FDC4344-1480-A80FF@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1326807410.31102.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John, did you check out this site? Looks like it hasn't been updated in a
while, but I believe this gentleman had several 1100's...
http://www.justbritish.com/mg1100/


Also, the NAMGBR has a Register of
1100's....
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr/mg1100.html

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: John Elwood
<mgmagnette at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012
1:20 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone have an MG 1100?
 
I just picked up a pair of
them.  Can't seem to remember anyone mentioning
they had one on this list. 
Looks like they will be fun to rebuild... can't
get interior kits, etc.
There's nothing like a moss catalog for them.  Will
have to learn a few new
skills!
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Jan 17 14:00:42 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 21:00:42 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level question
Message-ID: <20120117.160042.8709.6@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

   The TD handbook says to fill brake master cylinder to a level 1/2 inch
below bottom threads of the filler neck.   That leaves a large volume of air
above the fluid, far  more than would seem to be needed for expansion.
Totally T-Type 2 (Issue 10, February 2012) has an article by a TF owner who
rigged a separate overflow bottle to his MC, connected at the back end with
banjo fitting, so he can check level and fill from under bonnet, instead of
through the hole after removing the rubber plug under the carpet. Would this
not fill the MC completely?
   Why would MG have specified such a seemingly low level? Does it matter?
Bob

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Tue Jan 17 14:40:06 2012
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 16:40:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level question
In-Reply-To: <20120117.160042.8709.6@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120117.160042.8709.6@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8CEA377B6BA0881-1954-4F3C@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>

I'll take a guess...   The low level is made on the assumption that your
brakes will be partially or totally worn.  When you put new shoes in, there
needs to be enough room for the fluid to rise without leaking out.


-----Original Message-----
From: mgbob <mgbob at juno.com>
To: mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>; mg-t <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jan 17, 2012 4:31 pm
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level question


   The TD handbook says to fill brake master cylinder to a level 1/2 inch
elow bottom threads of the filler neck.   That leaves a large volume of air
bove the fluid, far  more than would seem to be needed for expansion.
otally T-Type 2 (Issue 10, February 2012) has an article by a TF owner who
igged a separate overflow bottle to his MC, connected at the back end with
anjo fitting, so he can check level and fill from under bonnet, instead of
hrough the hole after removing the rubber plug under the carpet. Would this
ot fill the MC completely?
  Why would MG have specified such a seemingly low level? Does it matter?
ob

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jan 18 05:13:55 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 12:13:55 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level question
References: <20120117.160042.8709.6@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<8CEA377B6BA0881-1954-4F3C@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <37D1D7B756EC484BBA1F4814DA2F1A14@paul>

Can't speak for a TD but on an MGB you have to remove fluid from the master 
when replacing the pads.  1/2" below is the level for those two, but even so 
I occasionally find it has overflowed onto the top of the master in normal 
use.  The much greater diameter of the calliper pistons and pad material are 
obviously a factor in that, but BL cars of the era with drums all round 
still had sponge rings around the filler cap/neck to absorb any overflow.

If the expansion bottle on the TF owner has the tube projecting down through 
the master cap an appropriate amount then fluid level will be maintained at 
the bottom of that tube - assuming the master cap is non-vented, the vent 
being on the expansion bottle cap.  This is how the Gunson's Eezibleed 
works.

But with an expansion bottle and non-vented cap it wouldn't matter if the 
master were completely full, that is what happens on radiator systems with 
remote expansion tanks.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'll take a guess...   The low level is made on the assumption that your
> brakes will be partially or totally worn.  When you put new shoes in, 
> there
> needs to be enough room for the fluid to rise without leaking out.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>   The TD handbook says to fill brake master cylinder to a level 1/2 inch
> elow bottom threads of the filler neck.   That leaves a large volume of 
> air
> bove the fluid, far  more than would seem to be needed for expansion. 

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Wed Jan 18 15:11:50 2012
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 17:11:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level
Message-ID: <969qaRwkY3392S03.1326924710@web03.cms.usa.net>

The previous threat prompted me to ask a question that has been bothering me.

In both my MGB and my Honda CRV, on a few occasions I've left it in the
garage
for a few months and when I come back to it I find the brake fluid level low.

In each case I've topped it up with new fluid, and then done various stomps
on
the pedals and inspections to see if there are any detectable leaks. I find
that the fluid level remains constant while I am making daily use of the car

Where does it go?

Douglas
'70 BGT
Bloomington IN

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jan 19 02:05:44 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 09:05:44 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level
References: <969qaRwkY3392S03.1326924710@web03.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <7DC361D327074FC39AF4E1151CD35DD7@paul>

It's telling you to use it.

It *may* be an iffy seal, which leaks less when the car is being used i.e. 
the seals are being flexed.  But unless you compare the level over 'a few 
months' of regular use with the same period of disuse you aren't making a 
valid comparison.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... I find
> that the fluid level remains constant while I am making daily use of the 
> car

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jan 19 15:40:15 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 17:40:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Briton
Message-ID: <E1Ro0ed-0005C1-2m@eta.look.ca>

Has anyone had any dealings with "The Briton" Jim Deatsch ?

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Thu Jan 19 19:07:29 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 20:07:29 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1326999603.27596.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21.1326999603.27596.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4F18CC61.20002@comcast.net>

Brake fluid gnomes.

1. Steal brake fluid.
2. ?
3. Profit

On 1/19/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 17:11:50 -0500
> From: "Douglas McKinnie"<d.mckinnie at usa.net>
> To:<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level
> Message-ID:<969qaRwkY3392S03.1326924710 at web03.cms.usa.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> The previous threat prompted me to ask a question that has been bothering me.
>
> In both my MGB and my Honda CRV, on a few occasions I've left it in the
> garage
> for a few months and when I come back to it I find the brake fluid level low.
>
> In each case I've topped it up with new fluid, and then done various stomps
> on
> the pedals and inspections to see if there are any detectable leaks. I find
> that the fluid level remains constant while I am making daily use of the car
>
> Where does it go?
>
> Douglas
> '70 BGT
> Bloomington IN

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Jan 19 21:35:26 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 22:35:26 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level
In-Reply-To: <4F18CC61.20002@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.21.1326999603.27596.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<4F18CC61.20002@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201201200435.q0K4ZPrI003096@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

#2 = Sell what you stole.


At 08:07 PM 1/19/2012 -0600, Glenn Schnittke wrote:
>Brake fluid gnomes.
>
>1. Steal brake fluid.
>2. ?
>3. Profit
>
>On 1/19/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 17:11:50 -0500
>>From: "Douglas McKinnie"<d.mckinnie at usa.net>
>>To:<mgs at autox.team.net>
>>Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid level
>>Message-ID:<969qaRwkY3392S03.1326924710 at web03.cms.usa.net>
>>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>>
>>The previous threat prompted me to ask a question that has been bothering me.
>>
>>In both my MGB and my Honda CRV, on a few occasions I've left it in the
>>garage
>>for a few months and when I come back to it I find the brake fluid level low.
>>
>>In each case I've topped it up with new fluid, and then done various stomps
>>on
>>the pedals and inspections to see if there are any detectable leaks. I find
>>that the fluid level remains constant while I am making daily use of the car
>>
>>Where does it go?
>>
>>Douglas
>>'70 BGT
>>Bloomington IN
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barneymg at mgaguru.com
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4753 - Release Date: 01/19/12

From pryner at verizon.net  Fri Jan 20 06:38:23 2012
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 08:38:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] '66 MGB project
In-Reply-To: <201201200435.q0K4ZPrI003096@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
References: <mailman.21.1326999603.27596.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<4F18CC61.20002@comcast.net>
	<201201200435.q0K4ZPrI003096@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <9D51D78D59294A4198FD482CAB949A67@PetePC>

I have a 1966 MG that has been sitting stripped for several years.  I had 
planned on doing a complete restoration and to that end have purchased 
thousands of dollars of parts in preparation.  However, looking around the 
house recently I just have too many other projects to complete all of them 
and the B is low on the priority list.  I got enthusiastic a few months ago 
and finished the rebuild on the engine and transmission, mated them and 
built a roll around storage fixture for the mated pair.  I didn't save all 
of the parts receipts but I built a spreadsheet listing all of them and 
looked up current prices and found that I have over $8K in parts!  I also 
have two spare engines and transmissions although some parts are missing. 
One engine is a three main  and the other is a later model 5 main.  None of 
the transmissions hve OD.  A few years ago I picked up several parts cars 
and rescued various extra parts.  I'm looking for someone who wants to take 
on a major project and save and early B.  I know I'll never recoup the cost 
of parts and am negotiable on the price.  I have a clean title.  I'm located 
in the Tampa area - you will have to come pick the car up.  I do have a 16' 
trailer available for loan but with all the parts you'll need a truck and 
maybe two trips to get it all.  Please contact me off list if you or your 
club are interested.  I can send the spreadsheet of parts upon request.
Pete