From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Wed Aug 1 05:28:36 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 12:28:36 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Coil for 1980 MGB (was intermittent miss) References: <501899d2.8a26340a.4d6e.52a5@mx.google.com> Message-ID: I think what Richard is trying to say is that the coil and the ballast resistance must be carrying a current for you to see the 6v you expect. Of the two wires on the coil +ve one should come from the ignition source via the ballast resistance, and the other one should come from the bypass contact on the solenoid, both white/light-green. There should be a third, white wire on that terminal which goes to the CEI amplifier, and two white/black wires on the coil -ve. One of these comes from the CEI amplifier and the other goes to the tach. Because the CEI system is variable dwell you may not get a current flowing with the ignition on but the engine stopped. To measure the voltage and check that you do have a ballast resistance in circuit and the correct resistance coil, remove the white/black from the CEI unit that goes to the coil -ve, and connect an earth to the coil -ve instead. With the ignition on measure the coil +ve wrt earth and you should see 6v. If you see 12v there is no ballast in circuit, or the coil is open circuit or not earthed properly. If you see anything else, like 8v, you will have to measure the individual coil and ballast resistance with the ignition off and the wires disconnected to see where the problem lies (8v is typically caused by trying to use a 12v coil, which measure 3 ohms, in series with a ballast). PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > If the system is ballasted, shouldn't the wire coming from the CEI > amplifier > show 6 volts or is there something different about the CEI ignition > system? From pboldtrix at juno.com Wed Aug 1 15:48:27 2012 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 21:48:27 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Replacing door buffers Message-ID: <20120801.174827.27848.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com> Listers: Have four new rubber door buffers for my 67 MGBGT. Can anyone advise the best way to do this job? What type of screws hold the hinge -- Phillips?, Pozidrive?, or something else? Remove the hinges from door or from frame, or both? I'm concerned with not screwing up the fit on my doors, so is there a special way to do it? Thanks in advance Phil Bacon ____________________________________________________________ Woman is 53 But Looks 25 Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5019a43ec06ac243e0ec7st54vuc From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Aug 2 02:18:28 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 09:18:28 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing door buffers References: <20120801.174827.27848.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Pozidrive. Strikes me you have to remove the hinge from the A-post at the very least in order to get at the back of the piece that holds the buffer. As well as the four visible screws holding the hinge to the A-post there is a nut on the back accessed by removing the splash plate behind the front wheel. Removing either door from hinge or hinge from A-post will obviously mean re-aligning the door, but if it's right now you should be able to get it right again. If the hinges have been painted when fitted to the A-post you will probably have to cut along the seam or risk a 'tear' in the paint on the A-post, but at least that will help you get the hinge back in the right place, leaving you with just the door on the hinge to get right. However if you have enough padding under the door you may be able to deal with the hinge while still attached to the door. But the down-side is that you will have to man-handle the door while getting the hinge reattached to the A-post, it's much easier to fit the hinges first then slide the door onto the hinges. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Listers: Have four new rubber door buffers for my 67 MGBGT. Can anyone > advise the best way to do this job? From itswonderful at comcast.net Sun Aug 5 17:31:16 2012 From: itswonderful at comcast.net (Frank Marrone) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 16:31:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation Message-ID: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. Someone even put helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped much. The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous. I did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement springs that start sagging soon after installation. I'd like to avoid that! I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock ride height. Where is a good place to start looking? Where should I avoid? Frank in Cloverdale From don at napanet.net Sun Aug 5 18:14:43 2012 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2012 17:14:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation In-Reply-To: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> Message-ID: Frank, I had a '73 B GT that listed to one side, and I bought a pair of new rear springs from NOS Locators. Front of car was level, and it had new coil springs. All of the springs I put on the car made in UK by the way. I put the new rear springs on the car and the car sat more uneven than it did with the original springs on it. They sent a replacement spring for the spring that was the weaker of the two. That didn't remedy it. Off the car, the springs would match great, but on the car was a different story. So, I took both of the new springs to a local auto spring shop, and gave them the specs on how the car was sitting and they re-arched them. I put them on the car and it was finally level and looked right. After this experience, I would just take original old springs into such a place to start with and not bother with new ones. I don't know which Cloverdale you are in, but if you are in California, the shop to go to is this one. There must be such shops in different cities in the US and Canada. The shop in Santa Rosa did great work in my opinion. http://www.springworks.com/ Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1955 MGTF 1962 MGA Mk 2 1967 MGB 1963-7 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars springwepdsprinAt 04:31 PM 8/5/2012, Frank Marrone wrote: >I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. Someone even put >helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped >much. The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous. I >did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement >springs that start sagging soon after installation. I'd like to avoid that! >I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock >ride height. Where is a good place to start looking? Where should I avoid? > >Frank in Cloverdale From mvheim at sonic.net Sun Aug 5 18:32:22 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2012 17:32:22 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation In-Reply-To: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hmm. I can recall a lot of posts about experiences with replacement springs that resulted in too high ride height. Mine took over 15 years to level out. I wasn't aware that "too saggy" was a problem with replacements. But that might be a recent phenomenon. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/5/12 4:31 PM, Frank Marrone at itswonderful at comcast.net wrote: > I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. Someone even put > helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped > much. The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous. I > did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement > springs that start sagging soon after installation. I'd like to avoid that! > I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock > ride height. Where is a good place to start looking? Where should I avoid? > > Frank in Cloverdale > _______________________________________________ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 6 06:23:18 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 05:23:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation In-Reply-To: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1344255798.97012.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Frank, you might want to take a glance through the archives (click the link at the bottom of the message and pick 'MGs) and search on 'leaf springs'). Lots of good info going back to 1998..... Dan D '76B, '65B Central NJ USA ________________________________ From: Frank Marrone To: 'Mgs-Digest' Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2012 7:31 PM Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. Someone even put helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped much. The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous. I did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement springs that start sagging soon after installation. I'd like to avoid that! I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock ride height. Where is a good place to start looking? Where should I avoid? Frank in Cloverdale _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From mgbob at juno.com Mon Aug 6 07:31:45 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 13:31:45 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation Message-ID: <20120806.093145.20059.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> My experience was a variation of Don's. Installed new rear springs for '72 GT, and rear was way too high. Went to a spring company, where owner said problem was front springs being low. Installed new front springs and it was much better, but still about two inches high at the rear. Back to the spring shop--they do not re-arch or de-arch springs this small. Went to another spring shop, and learned that they do not work on, or make, small springs either. Their suggestion was to remove the second leaf (the 10-12 inch one) and that the car would eventually settle to level. It is almost level now. Despite the hassles involved, the exercise was worthwhile. The GT rides and handles much better than before. Though stiffer and the motion is quicker, the ride is more comfortable. The exhaust system is intact too. Removal of the leaf required finding new spring bolts. An article in MGB Driver in recent past suggested moving the unwanted leaf from original location to the top, where it is not supporting weight. That would still raise the car by the height of thickness of the spring (3/16 or so). If ride height is acceptable, that would save buying spring bolts. Bob '72 GT '53 TD, with fine, original springs ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Don To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2012 17:14:43 -0700 Frank, I had a '73 B GT that listed to one side, and I bought a pair of new rear springs from NOS Locators. Front of car was level, and it had new coil springs. All of the springs I put on the car made in UK by the way. I put the new rear springs on the car and the car sat more uneven than it did with the original springs on it. They sent a replacement spring for the spring that was the weaker of the two. That didn't remedy it. Off the car, the springs would match great, but on the car was a different story. So, I took both of the new springs to a local auto spring shop, and gave them the specs on how the car was sitting and they re-arched them. I put them on the car and it was finally level and looked right. After this experience, I would just take original old springs into such a place to start with and not bother with new ones. I don't know which Cloverdale you are in, but if you are in California, the shop to go to is this one. There must be such shops in different cities in the US and Canada. The shop in Santa Rosa did great work in my opinion. http://www.springworks.com/ Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1955 MGTF 1962 MGA Mk 2 1967 MGB 1963-7 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars springwepdsprinAt 04:31 PM 8/5/2012, Frank Marrone wrote: >I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. Someone even put >helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped >much. The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous. I >did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement >springs that start sagging soon after installation. I'd like to avoid that! >I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock >ride height. Where is a good place to start looking? Where should I avoid? > >Frank in Cloverdale _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Aug 7 11:53:55 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 12:53:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation In-Reply-To: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> Message-ID: <50215633.2030608@ktc.com> I replaced the rear springs in my '69 B with Moss's reproductions. That was in the mid- 1990's. We had quite a long thread on the MG list at the time. It was called "Ride Height." Don't know if the archives go back that far. Anyhoo, I've had no complaints with the rear springs from Moss. Maybe someone has used them recently. Anybody? CR On 8/5/2012 6:31 PM, Frank Marrone wrote: > I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. Someone even put > helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped > much. The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous. I > did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement > springs that start sagging soon after installation. I'd like to avoid that! > I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock > ride height. Where is a good place to start looking? Where should I avoid? > > Frank in Cloverdale > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com From rpschauss at gmail.com Tue Aug 7 12:25:44 2012 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 14:25:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Intermittent miss - fixed Message-ID: Thanks to everyone who gave advice and suggestions. I replaced the coil and after about 50 miles the miss has not returned. Peter Schauss 1980 MGB From barrie at look.ca Tue Aug 7 13:08:41 2012 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 15:08:41 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation In-Reply-To: <50215633.2030608@ktc.com> References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net> <50215633.2030608@ktc.com> Message-ID: Yes, I did ! I had Moss springs fitted all round and it worked out perfect - Mind you the garage that did it were no fools and not into American stuff !!! At 12:53 PM 8/7/2012 -0500, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote: > I replaced the rear springs in my '69 B with Moss's reproductions. >That was in the mid- 1990's. We had quite a long thread on the MG >list at the time. It was called "Ride Height." Don't know if the >archives go back that far. Anyhoo, I've had no complaints with the >rear springs from Moss. Maybe someone has used them recently. >Anybody? > >CR >On 8/5/2012 6:31 PM, Frank Marrone wrote: >>I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. Someone even put >>helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped >>much. The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous. I >>did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement >>springs that start sagging soon after installation. I'd like to avoid that! >>I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock >>ride height. Where is a good place to start looking? Where should I avoid? >> >>Frank in Cloverdale >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From warthodson at aol.com Tue Aug 7 19:28:56 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 21:28:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] twin cam for sale Message-ID: <8CF431C4F76BCD4-13FC-327BE@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com> I have a 1959 LHD MGA twin cam for sale which I have owned since 1989. For more information contact me off list. Gary Hodson From laf48 at aol.com Thu Aug 9 02:53:54 2012 From: laf48 at aol.com (laf48 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 04:53:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal In-Reply-To: <20FC54BCFD71433F9046D58533D9BC4F@bboffice> References: <20FC54BCFD71433F9046D58533D9BC4F@bboffice> Message-ID: <8CF4423A3D9039E-700-494D1@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com> Hello Bill IMO, the Moss seal is not needed. Align bore the block to bring the main bearing clearance down to .001" (with new bearings). Done. My car has virtually no leaks. Do not use the Moss front seal, I have a part # for a thinner seal which works better. Len -----Original Message----- From: Wbeech To: 'mg-t' ; mgs Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2012 5:14 pm Subject: [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal Friend just brought over his '52 TD and showed me the oil leaking from the weep hole in the bell housing. Probably a drop every 10 seconds as it sat there idling. Couldn't think of anything good to say to him but it must be the rear main seal. It there anything else up there that could be leaking so badly? I just looked in the Moss catalog at the seal replacement kit that they sell. Does anyone here have any experience with it? Are there any other good alternatives out there? Lastly, May I presume that this cannot be done with the engine in situ? I have never pulled a TD engine, any particular tricks? Must I pull the engine/tranny together? Thanks to all, Bill ______________________________________________ Mg-t at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/laf48 at aol.com From rolds at plausa.com Thu Aug 9 04:40:18 2012 From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 10:40:18 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal In-Reply-To: <20FC54BCFD71433F9046D58533D9BC4F@bboffice> References: <20FC54BCFD71433F9046D58533D9BC4F@bboffice> Message-ID: Bill, I have the same leak on my TD engine following rebuilding the engine. I used the Moss rear seal. The car is not on the road yet and I haven't done anything about it yet but I probable will have to. It is my understanding that the weep hole is designed for oil to drip. What I don't know is how much is designed to drip. Please keep me informed as to how you address the problem, the solution and results. Thanks, Ronald Olds -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 5:06 PM To: 'mg-t'; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal Friend just brought over his '52 TD and showed me the oil leaking from the weep hole in the bell housing. Probably a drop every 10 seconds as it sat there idling. Couldn't think of anything good to say to him but it must be the rear main seal. It there anything else up there that could be leaking so badly? I just looked in the Moss catalog at the seal replacement kit that they sell. Does anyone here have any experience with it? Are there any other good alternatives out there? Lastly, May I presume that this cannot be done with the engine in situ? I have never pulled a TD engine, any particular tricks? Must I pull the engine/tranny together? Thanks to all, Bill ______________________________________________ Mg-t at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds at plausa.com From redscirocco at hotmail.com Thu Aug 9 05:56:44 2012 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike E) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 07:56:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal In-Reply-To: <20FC54BCFD71433F9046D58533D9BC4F@bboffice> References: <20FC54BCFD71433F9046D58533D9BC4F@bboffice> Message-ID: Bill, Also see what Abingdon Spares has to offer. I've often found them to be less expensive, with the same or better quality. They ONLY sell MG T parts, so they cater to us. www.abingdonsparesllc.com They're a bit old fashioned - you can look at their catalog and prices online, but you'll have to phone in your order. They ship very quickly. I have no experience with either company's rear main seals, however.NFI, and all that. Also, if anyone is concerned about ZDDP, Abingdon Spares sells their own blend of oil specially formulated with additives for our cars. Look under "specials." Best of luck to you and your friend! -Mike Eldred > From: wbeech at flash.net > To: mg-t at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 16:05:39 -0500 > Subject: [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal > > Friend just brought over his '52 TD and showed me the oil leaking from the > weep hole in the bell housing. Probably a drop every 10 seconds as it sat > there idling. > > Couldn't think of anything good to say to him but it must be the rear main > seal. It there anything else up there that could be leaking so badly? > > I just looked in the Moss catalog at the seal replacement kit that they > sell. Does anyone here have any experience with it? Are there any other > good alternatives out there? > > Lastly, May I presume that this cannot be done with the engine in situ? I > have never pulled a TD engine, any particular tricks? Must I pull the > engine/tranny together? > > Thanks to all, > Bill > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sun Aug 12 22:47:57 2012 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 21:47:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony? Message-ID: What was it? TD? Simon From pchast at francomm.com Sun Aug 12 22:57:25 2012 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 00:57:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thought I saw a bugeye. On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 00:47:57 -0400, Simon Matthews wrote: > What was it? TD? > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Aug 13 02:08:53 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 09:08:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony? References: Message-ID: <52125FCEC98E4513B17955C0556DB87E@paul> Both, although the TD could well have been a TA/B/C as I don't remember seeing a front bumper. There was an MGA, an MGF and a big Healey. Wife thought she spotted a BGT. PaulH ----- Original Message ----- > Thought I saw a bugeye. > >> What was it? TD? From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 14:24:14 2012 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 13:24:14 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony? In-Reply-To: <52125FCEC98E4513B17955C0556DB87E@paul> References: <52125FCEC98E4513B17955C0556DB87E@paul> Message-ID: One forum reported an MGB and MGB-GT. Looking at some photos, it was not a TD, as I had suggested -- something earlier. Simon On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:08 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote: > Both, although the TD could well have been a TA/B/C as I don't remember > seeing a front bumper. There was an MGA, an MGF and a big Healey. Wife > thought she spotted a BGT. > > PaulH > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> Thought I saw a bugeye. >> >> What was it? TD? >>> >> ______________________________**_________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/simon.d.matthews@ > **gmail.com From d.mckinnie at usa.net Mon Aug 13 16:11:23 2012 From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:11:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting Message-ID: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It always starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. Douglas McKinnie '70 MGB-GT Western Massachusetts From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Aug 13 16:15:18 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 15:15:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting In-Reply-To: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: I have experienced this symptom in the past at various times. To me, it is a prompt to start checking, cleaning and tightening connections. on 8/13/12 3:11 PM, Douglas McKinnie at d.mckinnie at usa.net wrote: > Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" position, > there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It always > starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. > > I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. > > Douglas McKinnie > '70 MGB-GT > Western Massachusetts -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From pchast at francomm.com Mon Aug 13 16:21:38 2012 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:21:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting In-Reply-To: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: Douglas, I'd be checking and cleaning all contacts including the chassis from engine ground. Something could be loose/not grounding properly. Pete Chast On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:11:23 -0400, Douglas McKinnie wrote: > Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" > position, > there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It > always > starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. > > I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. > > Douglas McKinnie > '70 MGB-GT > Western Massachusetts > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From awhitema at panix.com Mon Aug 13 17:02:48 2012 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 16:02:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting In-Reply-To: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: <59B4C2B2-3DE4-4391-91F1-59883B79BFE8@panix.com> Sent from my iPad On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" wrote: > Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" position, > there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It always > starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. > > I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. Oh the timing! Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing. One day, it didn't do anything but 'click'. In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead. Without a load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps. As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean. If the problems go away, you're golden for a while. Worst case, you need to be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine, it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening. With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage * at the output of the starter relay. Should be about 12V when the assistant turns the key to start. * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the output of the relay, it should also be about 12V. * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps to turn the starter motor. You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful. In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit, discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn. Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist) "highly rebuildable". From mgb72 at airmail.net Mon Aug 13 17:44:34 2012 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:44:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting In-Reply-To: <59B4C2B2-3DE4-4391-91F1-59883B79BFE8@panix.com> References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> <59B4C2B2-3DE4-4391-91F1-59883B79BFE8@panix.com> Message-ID: <000f01cd79ad$97e93a80$c7bbaf80$@net> The high torque starters are great. There is a seller on Ebay under "MG MGB MGC Modern Gear Reduction Starter Motor MGB-GT" sells them for $190, much cheaper than the regular sources. One thing nice is they take much less power to run them, nice feature if you are having issues in that department. Chad -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 6:03 PM To: Douglas McKinnie Cc: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting Sent from my iPad On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" wrote: > Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" > position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing > more. It always > starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. > > I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. Oh the timing! Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing. One day, it didn't do anything but 'click'. In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead. Without a load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps. As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean. If the problems go away, you're golden for a while. Worst case, you need to be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine, it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening. With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage * at the output of the starter relay. Should be about 12V when the assistant turns the key to start. * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the output of the relay, it should also be about 12V. * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps to turn the starter motor. You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful. In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit, discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn. Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist) "highly rebuildable". _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Aug 13 18:06:35 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 17:06:35 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting In-Reply-To: <000f01cd79ad$97e93a80$c7bbaf80$@net> Message-ID: IME, starting is not something the MGB has trouble with, assuming the battery has enough juice to turn the engine over at all. So long as it rotates, even slowly, it will fire on the first or second turn. In other words, the problem is seldom with inadequate starter torque -- it's almost always a charging or ignition problem. When I had a bad ring gear, I used to start the car by opening the driver's door and pushing backwards out of the totally level driveway with my left foot, and popping the clutch in reverse when it hit the slight slope of the curb cut. That wasn't a whole lot of rotation, but it worked every time. At the other end, I would leave it in an empty area of a parking lot, and push hard enough to coast for a few feet -- same result. A hill was even better, of course. I have to say I wasn't very fond of the "poke-and-pray" Mark I starter -- a bad pinion is what ruined my ring gear, which then proceeded to quickly ruin 2 new pinions in short order. I wound up replacing the whole mess with a late 70s OD tranny, starter and flywheel. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/13/12 4:44 PM, Chad at mgb72 at airmail.net wrote: > The high torque starters are great. There is a seller on Ebay under "MG MGB > MGC Modern Gear Reduction Starter Motor MGB-GT" sells them for $190, much > cheaper than the regular sources. One thing nice is they take much less > power to run them, nice feature if you are having issues in that department. > > Chad > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 6:03 PM > To: Douglas McKinnie > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting > > Sent from my iPad > > On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" wrote: > >> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" >> position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing >> more. It > always >> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. >> >> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. > > Oh the timing! > > Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing. One > day, it didn't do anything but 'click'. > > In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead. Without a > load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps. > > As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean. > If the problems go away, you're golden for a while. Worst case, you need to > be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine, > it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening. > > With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put > the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage > * at the output of the starter relay. Should be about 12V when the > assistant turns the key to start. > * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the > output of the relay, it should also be about 12V. > * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps > to turn the starter motor. > > You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful. > > In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid > circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit, > discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn. > > > Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist) > "highly rebuildable". From pat at pathand.net Tue Aug 14 01:22:08 2012 From: pat at pathand.net (Pat Hand) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 17:22:08 +1000 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting In-Reply-To: <000f01cd79ad$97e93a80$c7bbaf80$@net> References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> <59B4C2B2-3DE4-4391-91F1-59883B79BFE8@panix.com> <000f01cd79ad$97e93a80$c7bbaf80$@net> Message-ID: <07d901cd79ed$878c2090$96a461b0$@net> Hi I have fitted a High Torque starter to my 1971 MGB, it works great, and uses less power. Regards Pat Hand 74 MGB 49 MGY T -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chad Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 9:45 AM To: 'Aaron Whiteman'; 'Douglas McKinnie' Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting The high torque starters are great. There is a seller on Ebay under "MG MGB MGC Modern Gear Reduction Starter Motor MGB-GT" sells them for $190, much cheaper than the regular sources. One thing nice is they take much less power to run them, nice feature if you are having issues in that department. Chad -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 6:03 PM To: Douglas McKinnie Cc: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting Sent from my iPad On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" wrote: > Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" > position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing > more. It always > starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. > > I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. Oh the timing! Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing. One day, it didn't do anything but 'click'. In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead. Without a load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps. As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean. If the problems go away, you're golden for a while. Worst case, you need to be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine, it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening. With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage * at the output of the starter relay. Should be about 12V when the assistant turns the key to start. * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the output of the relay, it should also be about 12V. * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps to turn the starter motor. You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful. In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit, discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn. Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist) "highly rebuildable". _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72 at airmail.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pat at pathand.net ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5197 - Release Date: 08/13/12 From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Aug 14 02:16:11 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:16:11 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: <9B92F8FC582F4512A71AB5DD40FB6567@paul> A 'substantial' click is probably the solenoid operating, but either failing to power the motor or the motor is failing to turn the engine. If the ignition warning light barely dims with the click, then it is probably for former. If it dims greatly, then the latter, possibly because of bad connections at the battery, battery earth to body, or engine/gearbox earth to body, although these often cause the solenoid to chatter as well. 'Hi torque' starters - there are two kinds advertised. One claimed to be so but is a conventional ungeared starter, and geared starters. Only the latter give the benefits of significantly lower cranking current and higher cranking speed, albeit at significant extra cost. The other ones are just more expensive without having much more 'bang for the buck'. Geared starters usually have the *solenoid* in line with the pinion and the motor to one side, with the motor slightly smaller than the solenoid, as opposed to the conventional very large motor (in comparison to the solenoid) motor in line with the pinion. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" > position, > there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It > always > starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again. From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Aug 14 02:18:03 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:18:03 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony? References: <52125FCEC98E4513B17955C0556DB87E@paul> Message-ID: <4348B666F4A7404BA8559845F5FF0156@paul> Subsequently spotted a yellow rubber bumper MGB roadster, interestingly an American spec with the side markers. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- One forum reported an MGB and MGB-GT. On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:08 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote: Both, although the TD could well have been a TA/B/C as I don't remember seeing a front bumper. There was an MGA, an MGF and a big Healey. Wife thought she spotted a BGT. From ptroot at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 12:25:46 2012 From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 13:25:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors Message-ID: So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose. But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was leaking out. :-) So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt drive. Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must? Paul. From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Wed Aug 15 14:10:45 2012 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 21:10:45 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Paul, to be totally honest you will probably buy a new compressor for less than the price of a replacement tank. Offer the motor & pump on eBay. Please see the following link to a general direct drive compressor on our website which is priced at 164.19UKP. http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=29536 The tank for this compressor on it's own is priced at 170.38UKP. It may be different for you in the USA but here in the UK the price of spares is silly. Kindest regards Tom Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, (a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd), 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. Tel: 01522 888178 Fax: 0870 705 9115 E-Mail: enquiries at ccw-tools.com, URL: www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales. Company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 VCard QR Scan ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Root To: mgs at autox.team.net List Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 7:25 PM Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose. But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was leaking out. :-) So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt drive. Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must? Paul. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of CCW-Tools%20VCard%20QR.jpg] From ptroot at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 14:23:21 2012 From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 15:23:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yeah, that looks a lot like what I have. I'm in the US, but thanks. On Aug 15, 2012, at 3:10 PM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote: > Hi Paul, to be totally honest you will probably buy a new compressor for less than the price of a replacement tank. Offer the motor & pump on eBay. > > Please see the following link to a general direct drive compressor on our website which is priced at 164.19UKP. > > http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=29536 > > The tank for this compressor on it's own is priced at 170.38UKP. > > It may be different for you in the USA but here in the UK the price of spares is silly. > > Kindest regards > Tom > Tom McCay - Director, > CCW-Tools, (a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd), > 32 Washingborough Road, > Heighington, > Lincoln, > LN4 1RE. > Tel: 01522 888178 > Fax: 0870 705 9115 > E-Mail: enquiries at ccw-tools.com, > URL: www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: > 32 Washingborough Road, > Heighington, > Lincoln, > LN4 1RE. > Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales. > > Company number 3930761. > VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 > > VCard QR Scan > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Paul Root > To: mgs at autox.team.net List > Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 7:25 PM > Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors > > So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was > just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose. > > But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted > through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was > leaking out. :-) > > So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and > compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt > drive. > > Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must? > > Paul. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk From pchast at francomm.com Wed Aug 15 14:33:09 2012 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 16:33:09 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes they are available... Google is your friend for this. On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 14:25:46 -0400, Paul Root wrote: > So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it > was > just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose. > > But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted > through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air > was > leaking out. :-) > > So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and > compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of > belt > drive. > > Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must? > > Paul. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From 71mgbgt at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 14:39:06 2012 From: 71mgbgt at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 14:39:06 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I imagine continuing to use a tank that already has a rust hole would be a very dangerous risk of explosion!? Henri On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Paul Root wrote: > So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was > just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose. > > But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted > through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was > leaking out. :-) > > So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and > compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt > drive. > > Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must? > > Paul. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/71mgbgt at gmail.com From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Aug 15 17:34:33 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 18:34:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <502C3209.4020408@ktc.com> Buy another compressor, Paul and remember to open the bleed valve after you're done using the new one. ;-) CR On 8/15/2012 1:25 PM, Paul Root wrote: > So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was > just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose. > > But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted > through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was > leaking out. :-) From DMatt21502 at aol.com Thu Aug 16 12:46:46 2012 From: DMatt21502 at aol.com (DMatt21502 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 14:46:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Air Compressor Message-ID: <7b138.6c551f8.3d5e9a16@aol.com> If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using JB Weld. Mine has held for 20 years! From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Aug 16 14:02:51 2012 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 13:02:51 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Air Compressor In-Reply-To: <7b138.6c551f8.3d5e9a16@aol.com> References: <7b138.6c551f8.3d5e9a16@aol.com> Message-ID: I would not do this. You have no idea of the condition of the rest of the walls of the compressor. Patch one pin hole and you might then get a catastrophic failure of the entire tank. A pressure vessel with a rust hole is scrap IMHO. Rick On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 11:46 AM, wrote: > If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using JB > Weld. Mine has held for 20 years! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Fri Aug 17 02:22:28 2012 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 09:22:28 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Exmoor Classic Car Museum in Somerset for sale Message-ID: <18A1092B8CF3462ABB98915BF9C56A52@TomVistaPC> Hi all, interesting article on the BBC news today. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-somerset-19290757 Tom McCay AH3000 MKIII BJ8 MGA1600 MKI Classic Mini Park Lane From james.f.juhas at snet.net Fri Aug 17 08:01:39 2012 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 10:01:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Air Compressor In-Reply-To: References: <7b138.6c551f8.3d5e9a16@aol.com> Message-ID: <502E4EC3.3090003@snet.net> I experienced this failure twice now, on a 35 year old 1hp unit and a much newer 5hp. They were not catastrophic, just noisy and wet (indicating why they failed). I found an identical tank for the 5hp, hopefully with less/no rust, at a flea market for $10. I plan to weld in a replacement patch on the 1hp to try to save it, cutting back to where the tank is still solid. The little one has sentimental value, I've had it so long. On 8/16/2012 4:02 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > I would not do this. > You have no idea of the condition of the rest of the walls of the > compressor. Patch one pin hole and you might then get a catastrophic > failure of the entire tank. > A pressure vessel with a rust hole is scrap IMHO. > Rick > > On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 11:46 AM, wrote: > >> If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using JB >> Weld. Mine has held for 20 years! >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/james.f.juhas at snet.net From ptroot at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 11:21:58 2012 From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 12:21:58 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers Message-ID: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> I know this is probably pointless to ask, but it's time for a new muffler for my car. Hit a bump this morning, and the front now has a hole, and the rear is really close. Anyway, I'm not concerned with getting 1, 2, or 5 more HP from my exhaust change. I'm interested in volume. I don't want it loud. Can anyone rate the relative loudness of the stock (well 68-74 from Moss) vs Tourist Trophy vs big bore stainless vs Peco? I have a '77 with HIF conversion and stock pre-cat manifold. I'm not planning on changing the manifold at this time, but that's not a show stopper. thanks, From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Fri Aug 17 11:57:14 2012 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 13:57:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> References: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> Message-ID: <63c35485a49f4b09fe09c4757ce4e625@camden.rutgers.edu> Hi Paul. I replaced the muffler of my '76 with HIF's with the stock Moss muffler this spring and I must admit, I am surprised by how loud it is. In fact, I hope there is a fix to reduce the noise, something to try this Fall. Bill Saidel '76 MGB BMCSNJ On 2012-08-17 13:21, Paul Root wrote: > I know this is probably pointless to ask, but it's time for a new > muffler for > my car. Hit a bump this morning, and the front now has a hole, and > the rear is > really close. > > > Anyway, I'm not concerned with getting 1, 2, or 5 more HP from my > exhaust > change. I'm interested in volume. I don't want it loud. > > Can anyone rate the relative loudness of the stock (well 68-74 from > Moss) vs > Tourist Trophy vs big bore stainless vs Peco? > > I have a '77 with HIF conversion and stock pre-cat manifold. I'm > not > planning on changing the manifold at this time, but that's not a show > stopper. > > > thanks, > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/saidel at camden.rutgers.edu From arundell at ghs.com.au Fri Aug 17 14:09:54 2012 From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 06:09:54 +1000 Subject: [Mgs] Air Compressor In-Reply-To: <502E4EC3.3090003@snet.net> References: <7b138.6c551f8.3d5e9a16@aol.com> <502E4EC3.3090003@snet.net> Message-ID: Why are you guys so bloody mean with your $s? Obviously you've never seen the results of a catastrophic failure of a pressure vessel.... For Pete's sake how much does a basic compressor cost in the US? Two parts of bugger all...... Get rid of the old clunker and probably save you life in the process. Murray Arundell On 18/08/2012, at 12:01 AM, Jim Juhas wrote: > I experienced this failure twice now, on a 35 year old 1hp unit and a much newer 5hp. They were not catastrophic, just noisy and wet (indicating why they failed). I found an identical tank for the 5hp, hopefully with less/no rust, at a flea market for $10. I plan to weld in a replacement patch on the 1hp to try to save it, cutting back to where the tank is still solid. The little one has sentimental value, I've had it so long. > > On 8/16/2012 4:02 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: >> I would not do this. >> You have no idea of the condition of the rest of the walls of the >> compressor. Patch one pin hole and you might then get a catastrophic >> failure of the entire tank. >> A pressure vessel with a rust hole is scrap IMHO. >> Rick >> >> On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 11:46 AM, wrote: >> >>> If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using JB >>> Weld. Mine has held for 20 years! >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/james.f.juhas at snet.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au From don at napanet.net Fri Aug 17 14:20:08 2012 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 13:20:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> References: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> Message-ID: On this subject . . . My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be. I want to get a stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them. A friend says the Moss mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1 car. Anyone done this? Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler on an early B? Thanks! Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1955 MGTF 1962 MGA Mk 2 1967 MGB 1963-7 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From mvheim at sonic.net Fri Aug 17 14:31:25 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 13:31:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I'm surprised. I didn't have any trouble locating a muffler last time I looked. 454-540 Muffler, front 454-550 Muffler, rear My catalog is a couple years old, however... on 8/17/12 1:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote: > On this subject . . . > > My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be. I want to > get a stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them. A friend > says the Moss mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1 > car. Anyone done this? > > Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler > on an early B? > > Thanks! > > Don Scott > > Calistoga CA USA > 1955 MGTF > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > 1967 MGB > 1963-7 MGB (seeking) > Misc. Japanese cars -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Fri Aug 17 15:08:59 2012 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 21:08:59 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: References: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> Message-ID: I am a bit puzzled by this. I put a stock exhaust on my 64B, purchased from Moss or a reseller maybe two years ago. A check at Moss Motors shows parts and prices, indicating they should still be available (unless temporarily out of stock?). http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29007 As far as my experience, for the original post, my MGs are all running stock exhaust systems (64b, 67BGT, 72B). For a long time, probably 1980 to maybe 1999, I used the ANCO or ANSI (I think that was the name) exhaust which had a more tubular muffler. I liked the rounded muffler because it was less likely to catch on road bumps and as I recall, it seemed a bit quieter than the stock. I don't see it on Moss website now so I am not positive I have the name right. It is hard to say which exhaust is truly louder though without comparing two cars side by side or measuring with a decibel meter though. I just know the original exhaust works fine and is inexpensive. David Councill -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 2:20 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] mufflers On this subject . . . My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be. I want to get a stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them. A friend says the Moss mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1 car. Anyone done this? Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler on an early B? Thanks! Don Scott From steve at shoyer.com Fri Aug 17 15:16:47 2012 From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 17:16:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> References: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2CB410B561644A15A5AE157381A670E6@SteveLenovo> Paul, I've got a 1980 MGB with the HIF conversion. I replaced the stock muffler with a Peco header and exhaust. I was told when I put it in that if it was too loud, I could add a glasspack muffler in the middle to quiet it down, but I haven't seen the need to do so. I wouldn't call it quiet, but it's not terribly loud either. -Steve (1980 MGB) -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Root Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 1:22 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] mufflers ...Can anyone rate the relative loudness of the stock (well 68-74 from Moss) vs Tourist Trophy vs big bore stainless vs Peco? From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Aug 17 18:17:52 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 17:17:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Good News on the B Front Message-ID: <1345249072.54966.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Well, finally taking some steps to get back behind the wheel of a B... Specifically, my '76.... Had it trucked down to the Motorcar Garage (Pete Cosmides' shop) last Friday to get the carb straightened out. That's all done, and I am having a few other items attended to as well. So I should be driving it before the end of this month... Can't wait, it's been a few years... While half of the garage is empty (looks strange!) I am cleaning up and rearranging and will be moving my mostly-disassembled '65 B project to the 'working' half of the garage. That will allow me to get back to working on it and finish the stripping-down process. Looking forward to spending some quality time with both the cars again. Dan D '76 B DRIVER '65 B Project Central NJ USA From don at napanet.net Sat Aug 18 01:33:20 2012 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 00:33:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Re: "puzzled" and "surprised" Hey guys, I may be slow, but I'm not stupid. I have been looking at each Moss MGB catalogue since I bought my car a year ago, and the rear muffler 454-550 for pre-1968 MGB was illustrated but was shown as "NA." However, the catalogue I just got in the mail does show that it is available again. t 01:31 PM 8/17/2012, Max Heim wrote: >I'm surprised. I didn't have any trouble locating a muffler last time I >looked. > >454-540 Muffler, front >454-550 Muffler, rear > >My catalog is a couple years old, however... > > >on 8/17/12 1:20 PM, Don at don at napanet.net wrote: > > > On this subject . . . > > > > My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be. I want to > > get a stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them. A friend > > says the Moss mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1 > > car. Anyone done this? > > > > Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler > > on an early B? > > > > Thanks! > > > > Don Scott > > > > Calistoga CA USA > > 1955 MGTF > > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > > 1967 MGB > > 1963-7 MGB (seeking) > > Misc. Japanese cars > >-- > >Max Heim >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >If you're near Menlo Park, CA, >it's the primer red one with chrome wires From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sat Aug 18 15:12:09 2012 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 21:12:09 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Perhaps then, I should add a bit more to this topic. I was "puzzled" because I had recently purchased all the exhaust pieces for my 64B restoration (recently as in two years ago) through Moss. However, it seems like I have been seeing a lot more "NA" parts the past 5-10 years. Some parts are "NA" because they can be substituted with newer year B parts or even with generic (multi-car) parts. But I have also found that parts listed "NA" by Moss can sometimes be found through other parts distributers. Most recently I purchased door caps for my 64B from the Roadster Factory - no other vendor I know of sells these. I have also ordered from the UK on a few occasions for parts unavailable here in the US. Leacy Classics (www.leacy classics) provided me with some hard to find parts and quick free international shipping. Brown & Gammons (http://www.ukmgparts.com/) was my source for parts for a factory hard top on my 72B that no other distributers had. Also, I should mention Moss resellers can also be helpful in finding alternate sources for NA parts. During the earlier restoration of my 72B, both Jeff Zorn (lbcarco.com) and Ed Kaler (justbrits.com) were able to locate some items for me. Just a little helpful information for the list. I am sure many of you are like me and are always looking for sources for parts. And that's just new parts. I have found used parts to be even more difficult in recent years in terms of salvage yards. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:33 AM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] mufflers Re: "puzzled" and "surprised" Hey guys, I may be slow, but I'm not stupid. I have been looking at each Moss MGB catalogue since I bought my car a year ago, and the rear muffler 454-550 for pre-1968 MGB was illustrated but was shown as "NA." However, the catalogue I just got in the mail does show that it is available again. From don at napanet.net Sat Aug 18 15:25:33 2012 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 14:25:33 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] mufflers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry to come off so strong. I have had MGs for 45 years and I have bought parts from many places. Used to get a lot of them directly from the UK, new and used, as I had a Magnette, Bs, MGA, and others. Was great when the dollar and pound were at parity. Getting a proper exhaust system on my current MGB is not a high priority, and just happened on the postings so interjected my query. I had not bothered to even look for a source other than Moss for a muffler. A used exhaust system in good shape would be fine, as what is on it works, but it's way too loud for my tastes. It looks to have a single glasspack single muffler only. Don At 02:12 PM 8/18/2012, Councill, David wrote: >Perhaps then, I should add a bit more to this topic. I was "puzzled" >because I had recently purchased all the exhaust pieces for my 64B >restoration (recently as in two years ago) through Moss. However, it >seems like I have been seeing a lot more "NA" parts the past 5-10 >years. Some parts are "NA" because they can be substituted with >newer year B parts or even with generic (multi-car) parts. But I >have also found that parts listed "NA" by Moss can sometimes be >found through other parts distributers. > >Most recently I purchased door caps for my 64B from the Roadster >Factory - no other vendor I know of sells these. I have also ordered >from the UK on a few occasions for parts unavailable here in the US. > >Leacy Classics (www.leacy classics) provided me with some hard to >find parts and quick free international shipping. Brown & Gammons >(http://www.ukmgparts.com/) was my source for parts for a factory >hard top on my 72B that no other distributers had. > >Also, I should mention Moss resellers can also be helpful in finding >alternate sources for NA parts. During the earlier restoration of my >72B, both Jeff Zorn (lbcarco.com) and Ed Kaler (justbrits.com) were >able to locate some items for me. > >Just a little helpful information for the list. I am sure many of >you are like me and are always looking for sources for parts. And >that's just new parts. I have found used parts to be even more >difficult in recent years in terms of salvage yards. > >David Councill >64 B >67 BGT >72 B > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] >On Behalf Of Don >Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:33 AM >To: MG List >Subject: [Mgs] mufflers > >Re: "puzzled" and "surprised" > >Hey guys, I may be slow, but I'm not stupid. I have been looking at >each Moss MGB catalogue since I bought my car a year ago, and the >rear muffler 454-550 for pre-1968 MGB was illustrated but was shown as "NA." > >However, the catalogue I just got in the mail does show that it is >available again. > > > > > > >----- > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5207 - Release Date: 08/18/12 From dave at ranteer.com Sat Aug 18 19:44:55 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 20:44:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] open trailer available In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <318423B7389849B691034A1835EAA42B@Spitfire> I'm running an empty trailer suitable for an lbc from dallas to tuscaloosa next friday. if you need a car moved I can make you a great deal dave northrup dallas, tx From schultejim at msn.com Sun Aug 19 23:02:54 2012 From: schultejim at msn.com (=?utf-8?B?c2NodWx0ZWppbUBtc24uY29t?=) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 01:02:54 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] =?utf-8?q?Death_in_MG_family?= Message-ID: Folks, Fyi. Steve Hardings wife passed away on Saturday due to an undisclosed illness. Debbie has been Steve's sidekick since before they started the Philly MG Club back in the early 80's. Our deapest sympathy is extended to Steve and his family. Debbie was a kind and friendly person. She was loved by all who knew her. Jim Schulte Former Secretary PMGC Sent via the HTC Vividb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 05:08:18 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 04:08:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Death in MG family In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1345460898.54450.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Sorry to hear that. Dan D Central NJ USA ________________________________ From: "schultejim at msn.com" To: MG List Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 1:02 AM Subject: [Mgs] Death in MG family Folks, Fyi. Steve Hardings wife passed away on Saturday due to an undisclosed illness. Debbie has been Steve's sidekick since before they started the Philly MG Club back in the early 80's. Our deapest sympathy is extended to Steve and his family. Debbie was a kind and friendly person. She was loved by all who knew her. Jim Schulte Former Secretary PMGC Sent via the HTC Vividb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 06:13:01 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 05:13:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back on 4 wheels.... Message-ID: <1345464781.22307.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Getting my '65 B ready to move to the other side of the garage..... Emptied it out of all of the stored crap and got the G78-14 bias play tires inflated.... http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6434.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6435.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6436.jpg The jacking points are much more solid than on my '76! Now to get a couple of neighborhood youths to help me roll it out and back into the other side.... Dan D '76 B Driver '65 B Project Central NJ USA From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Aug 21 11:04:43 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 12:04:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Back on 4 wheels.... In-Reply-To: <1345464781.22307.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1345464781.22307.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5033BFAB.6090208@ktc.com> What? You don't have any wheel dollies? CR On 8/20/2012 7:13 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Getting my '65 B ready to move to the other side of the garage..... Emptied it out of all of the stored crap and got the G78-14 bias play > tires inflated.... > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6434.jpg > > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6435.jpg > > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6436.jpg > > The jacking points are much more solid than on my '76! > > Now to get a couple of neighborhood youths to help me roll it out and back into the other side.... > > Dan D > '76 B Driver > '65 B Project > Central NJ USA > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Aug 21 15:09:49 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 14:09:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re: Back on 4 wheels.... In-Reply-To: <5033BFAB.6090208@ktc.com> References: <1345464781.22307.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <5033BFAB.6090208@ktc.com> Message-ID: <1345583389.13677.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Nope. Nor do I have an air compressor to inflate the tires. Dan D '76 B Driver '65 B Project Central NJ USA ________________________________ From: Charley & Peggy Robinson To: Dan DiBiase Cc: MGB- Yahoo ; MG List Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 1:04 PM Subject: [MG-MGB] Re: [Mgs] Back on 4 wheels.... What? You don't have any wheel dollies? CR On 8/20/2012 7:13 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Getting my '65 B ready to move to the other side of the garage..... Emptied it out of all of the stored crap and got the G78-14 bias play > tires inflated.... > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6434.jpg > > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6435.jpg > > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6436.jpg > > The jacking points are much more solid than on my '76! > > Now to get a couple of neighborhood youths to help me roll it out and back into the other side.... > > Dan D > '76 B Driver > '65 B Project > Central NJ USA > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From mgb72 at airmail.net Wed Aug 22 16:42:35 2012 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 17:42:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 101 year old driver & her 81 year old car.. Message-ID: <004f01cd80b7$6cf86100$46e92300$@net> Great story especially the part about someone's relative having one and it not being the same car at all. I get that in the MG all the time. Enjoy, Chad Cooper '72 B roadster 101 Year-Old Woman Drives An 81 Year-Old Car: There is hope for us all.This video clip is priceless. Notice at the very end when she steps on a little red towel to get into the car so she won't dirty the running board, then picks it up and puts it in the car so she can use it when she gets out!An amazing lady, 101 years old driv ing an 81-year-old car and changes the oil and spark plugs herself! This is a hoot! Click Here: Two Classics, One Car.mp4 - You Tube From palte at gmx.net Wed Aug 22 22:54:23 2012 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 06:54:23 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MGA picture, found on a bag of polishing cotton Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.2.20120823064908.0283ce40@mail.vortexsoest.nl> /local/mailman/lynxXXXX2mu6zW: Permission denied From palte at gmx.net Wed Aug 22 22:56:57 2012 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 06:56:57 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MGA picture, found on a bag of polishing cotton Message-ID: <20120823045657.268990@gmx.net> (Second attempt) Hi fellow listers, Yet another picture of an MGA, this time found on a bag of polishing cotton: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dtchbrt/7842686284/in/photostream Photographed at a Biltema store, at VC$sterC%s in Sweden. (In case this goes wrong ASCII-wise, that is Vasteras with two dots on the first A and a little circle on the second A) www.biltema.se No financial interest, yada, yad, yada... Greetings Bert From dwoerpel at wi.net Thu Aug 23 14:36:55 2012 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 15:36:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coil mount Message-ID: <50369467.8020609@wi.net> Hi all, Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This is the piece that attaches to the engine mount. The coil and its strap bolt to it. Thanks, Dave W. Burlington WI From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 20:09:48 2012 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:09:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Coil mount In-Reply-To: <50369467.8020609@wi.net> References: <50369467.8020609@wi.net> Message-ID: On my '57 MGA, the coil is mounted on the generator, not the engine mount. Simon On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 1:36 PM, dwoerpel wrote: > Hi all, > > Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This is > the piece that attaches to the engine mount. The coil and its strap bolt > to it. > > Thanks, > > Dave W. > Burlington WI > ______________________________**_________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/simon.d.matthews@ > **gmail.com From dwoerpel at wi.net Thu Aug 23 20:19:36 2012 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 21:19:36 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Mgs] Coil mount In-Reply-To: References: <50369467.8020609@wi.net> Message-ID: <47425.173.149.90.35.1345774776.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Yup, it was on all up to the 1600 and 1600 MkII. I'm contemplating using an alternator and want to use an original mounting position rather than drill more holes in the inner wing. Dave > On my '57 MGA, the coil is mounted on the generator, not the engine mount. > > Simon > > On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 1:36 PM, dwoerpel wrote: > >> Hi all, >> >> Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This >> is >> the piece that attaches to the engine mount. The coil and its strap >> bolt >> to it. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dave W. >> Burlington WI >> ______________________________**_________________ From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri Aug 24 09:25:44 2012 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 10:25:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions Needed Message-ID: Some years ago I bought a kit from VB that would allow me to remotely open and close the door locks on my MGB. I can't find the instructions. Anyone out there have the instructions? Jack From lrc at red4est.com Fri Aug 24 19:40:26 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 18:40:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB? Message-ID: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com> After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other todo lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road. I'm trying to go through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is lost and so forth. It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot bushing for the Ford 5-speed conversion. Does anyone off hand know of a good source of a replacement? or the dimensions in case I need to fab one? On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa Cruz mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous amount of spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on parts I don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of picking and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a friend who desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and had a small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he have to throw them out. -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From lrc at red4est.com Fri Aug 24 20:42:20 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 19:42:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB? In-Reply-To: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com> References: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com> Message-ID: An hour after I gave up looking for it, and posted that I was looking for one, I may have found it. It seems to fit in all the critical dimensions: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631231104590/ How much space should there be between the shaft and the pilot bushing? On Aug 24, 2012, at 6:40 PM, Larry Colen wrote: > After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other todo > lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road. I'm trying to go > through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is lost > and so forth. It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot bushing for > the Ford 5-speed conversion. Does anyone off hand know of a good source of a > replacement? or the dimensions in case I need to fab one? > > On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa Cruz > mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous amount of > spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on parts I > don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of picking > and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a friend who > desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and had a > small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he have to > throw them out. > -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Aug 24 22:43:55 2012 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 23:43:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB? In-Reply-To: References: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com> Message-ID: <201208250444.q7P4i3g2031346@nlpi157.prodigy.net> 0.002 inch diametrical clearance. At 07:42 PM 8/24/2012 -0700, Larry Colen wrote: >An hour after I gave up looking for it, and posted that I was looking for one, >I may have found it. It seems to fit in all the critical dimensions: > >http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631231104590/ > >How much space should there be between the shaft and the pilot bushing? >.... From mg_garage at comcast.net Sat Aug 25 10:56:50 2012 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 12:56:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB? In-Reply-To: References: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com> Message-ID: That pic does look like the bushing adapter for the Sierra 5 sp. I've installed a couple of them. gordie '62 MGA -------------------------------------------------- From: "Larry Colen" Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 10:42 PM To: "Larry Colen" Cc: "MG List" Subject: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB? > An hour after I gave up looking for it, and posted that I was looking for > one, > I may have found it. It seems to fit in all the critical dimensions: > > http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631231104590/ > > How much space should there be between the shaft and the pilot bushing? > On Aug 24, 2012, at 6:40 PM, Larry Colen wrote: > >> After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other > todo >> lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road. I'm trying to >> go >> through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is > lost >> and so forth. It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot >> bushing > for >> the Ford 5-speed conversion. Does anyone off hand know of a good source >> of > a >> replacement? or the dimensions in case I need to fab one? >> >> On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa >> Cruz >> mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous >> amount > of >> spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on >> parts > I >> don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of >> picking >> and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a >> friend > who >> desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and >> had > a >> small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he >> have > to >> throw them out. >> > > -- > Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net From 60mgaman at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 25 11:21:51 2012 From: 60mgaman at sbcglobal.net (David Ress) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 13:21:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB? In-Reply-To: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com> References: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com> Message-ID: <000001cd82e6$1dafc580$590f5080$@net> Thinking about a 5 speed conversion as well, can you point me in the right direction and or provide guidance? 70 MGBGT w/original motor. Thanks in advance David -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Colen Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 9:40 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB? After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other todo lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road. I'm trying to go through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is lost and so forth. It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot bushing for the Ford 5-speed conversion. Does anyone off hand know of a good source of a replacement? or the dimensions in case I need to fab one? On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa Cruz mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous amount of spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on parts I don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of picking and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a friend who desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and had a small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he have to throw them out. -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/60mgaman at sbcglobal.net From riverside at southslope.net Sat Aug 25 17:43:46 2012 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 18:43:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coil mount In-Reply-To: <47425.173.149.90.35.1345774776.squirrel@wm.wi.net> References: <50369467.8020609@wi.net> <47425.173.149.90.35.1345774776.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Message-ID: <15F1D4347FD64164AD7E7E9C3934F129@rileyPC> The engine mount coil bracket works very well with an alternator if you trim the vertical lip and place it under the frame mount to avoid interfering with alternator adjustment. Sorry but I do not have a spare on hand. Ron -----Original Message----- From: dwoerpel at wi.net Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:19 PM To: Simon Matthews Cc: MGs Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coil mount Yup, it was on all up to the 1600 and 1600 MkII. I'm contemplating using an alternator and want to use an original mounting position rather than drill more holes in the inner wing. Dave > On my '57 MGA, the coil is mounted on the generator, not the engine mount. > > Simon > > On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 1:36 PM, dwoerpel wrote: > >> Hi all, >> >> Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This >> is >> the piece that attaches to the engine mount. The coil and its strap >> bolt >> to it. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dave W. >> Burlington WI >> ______________________________**_________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5220 - Release Date: 08/23/12 From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Aug 26 06:56:49 2012 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 05:56:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] wx changing Message-ID: <1345985809.74451.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi Friends, Long time, no type. No longer owning an MG keeps me pretty quiet these days. Still, after the first of the year I may be helping a friend rebuild/restore his Midget. That should be fun. Just putting the metric tools away will be a treat. :-P If you will allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you my near-field plans. We've had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s and that has me thinking about the TR3. As any of you living in the deep south know, our open sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on unbearably hot, sun drenched summer days. That is certainly the case here in Houston, Texas. And I have lived here long enough now that a couple of cooler days has me thinking about open motoring. Problem is that my TR3 has a dead fuel pump. Well, that and the fact that it is a Triumph. :-P The weather has discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find myself pondering the job. Parts are already in hand but today is already booked. Next weekend (almost) for sure! What are your plans / projects? I miss you guys... -rick, in sunny Houston From barrie at look.ca Sun Aug 26 10:02:38 2012 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 12:02:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] wx changing In-Reply-To: <1345985809.74451.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185002.mail.gq1 .yahoo.com> References: <1345985809.74451.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hey hey - don't knock Triumphs. I raced a TR2 back in the days when they were all the rage. I used to embarrass those trucks called "XK120" which I could not have done in the car I traded in for the TR - an MG TD !! Even though I have an MGB GT V8 I long for the TR2 or TR3 (which I had later). I mean how many cars can you pick up road kill without stopping and just hanging your arm down to the ground ??? At 05:56 AM 8/26/2012 -0700, Rick Lindsay wrote: >Hi Friends, > >Long time, no type. No longer owning an MG keeps me pretty quiet these days. >Still, after the first of the year I may be helping a friend rebuild/restore >his Midget. That should be fun. Just putting the metric tools away will be a >treat. :-P > >If you will allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you my near-field >plans. > >We've had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s and that has >me thinking about the TR3. As any of you living in the deep south know, our >open sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on >unbearably hot, sun drenched summer days. That is certainly the case here in >Houston, Texas. And I have lived here long enough now that a couple of cooler >days has me thinking about open motoring. Problem is that my TR3 has a dead >fuel pump. Well, that and the fact that it is a Triumph. :-P > >The weather has discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find myself >pondering the job. Parts are already in hand but today is already booked. > Next weekend (almost) for sure! > >What are your plans / projects? I miss you guys... > >-rick, in sunny Houston >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From dwoerpel at wi.net Sun Aug 26 10:35:51 2012 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:35:51 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Mgs] wx changing In-Reply-To: References: <1345985809.74451.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <63109.173.123.233.9.1345998951.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Glad to hear from you again Rick! Just putting in new carpet in the MGA and having a devil of a time trying to get the cut just right around the diagonal frame brace and the sill. Barrie, I'm ROTFLing as my college buddy had and still has a Morgan +4. We hit a pheasant, did a "U" turn, and i grabbed it from the passenger seat w/o opening the door, did another "Bat-turn" and proceeded to his place where the bird, not severely disfigured, was duly dressed and had for dinner! Can't do that in my Bugeye. Thanks for the memories. Dave W. > Hey hey - don't knock Triumphs. I raced a TR2 back in the days when > they were all the rage. I used to embarrass those trucks called > "XK120" which I could not have done in the car I traded in for the TR > - an MG TD !! Even though I have an MGB GT V8 I long for the TR2 or > TR3 (which I had later). I mean how many cars can you pick up road > kill without stopping and just hanging your arm down to the ground ??? > > > At 05:56 AM 8/26/2012 -0700, Rick Lindsay wrote: >>Hi Friends, >> >>Long time, no type. No longer owning an MG keeps me pretty quiet these >> days. >>Still, after the first of the year I may be helping a friend >> rebuild/restore >>his Midget. That should be fun. Just putting the metric tools away will >> be a >>treat. :-P >> >>If you will allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you my >> near-field >>plans. >> >>We've had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s and that >> has >>me thinking about the TR3. As any of you living in the deep south know, >> our >>open sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on >>unbearably hot, sun drenched summer days. That is certainly the case >> here in >>Houston, Texas. And I have lived here long enough now that a couple of >> cooler >>days has me thinking about open motoring. Problem is that my TR3 has a >> dead >>fuel pump. Well, that and the fact that it is a Triumph. :-P >> >>The weather has discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find >> myself >>pondering the job. Parts are already in hand but today is already >> booked. >> Next weekend (almost) for sure! >> >>What are your plans / projects? I miss you guys... >> >>-rick, in sunny Houston >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca > > Regards > > Barrie > barrie at look.ca > 705-721-9060 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Aug 26 16:29:26 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 15:29:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back in the Saddle Again.... Message-ID: <1346020166.11830.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Well, I picked up the '76 B from the shop yesterday and had an uneventful (besides the rain) 50-mile drive home... Car runs great, pulls strongly and brakes well, all good things! It felt great to do some errands in it today.... http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/MG/?action=view¤t=IMG_6445.mp4 http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/MG/IMG_6452.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/MG/Garage.jpg As you can see, I also got the '65 switched over to the 'working' side of the garage this afternoon, so I can get back to work on it for a few months until the cold weather chases me out of the garage. All in all, a very good week-end! Dan D '76 B Driver - yes, really! '65 B Project Central NJ USA From dontoy at comcast.net Sun Aug 26 17:40:35 2012 From: dontoy at comcast.net (dontoy at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 23:40:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems In-Reply-To: <968484156.1025581.1346024129542.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1008964424.1025789.1346024435857.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dear Sages of the List, (Lawrie Alexander) Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive ground to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. Yes, I did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. All was good prior to the switch. It seems to be holding it's own while just the engine is running. As soon as I turn on the headlights I show a fair discharge. I would love to use a multimeter to check the generator output prior to taking it out. I do have a multimeter but so many placesB (6) to plug in the probesB on the multimeter. and so many settings on the dial. I get somewhat cornfused. Any help out there. Any troubleshooting advice would be very much appreciated.B Donald J. Toy "all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well" From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Mon Aug 27 01:50:44 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 08:50:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems References: <1008964424.1025789.1346024435857.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Did you repolarise the dynamo? If it is *always* showing a discharge, i.e. when it is running as well as when you turn the lights on with the engine stopped, then it isn't charging. As to 'holding it's own' you do need to connect a voltmeter to see if it is charging at all, although unless it shows a strong charge immediately after cranking and starting then again it probably isn't charging. As far as your multimeter goes we don't know what you have, so RTFM :o) PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive > ground > to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. > Yes, I > did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. From mgbob at juno.com Mon Aug 27 07:59:00 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 13:59:00 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems Message-ID: <20120827.095900.26169.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> You wrote that all was good before changing the polarity. Did you mean that the dynamo was charging as it should, then, but not now? If it worked properly then, and you sparked/polarised it, then it should b ok now. I suspect the control box. Clean its points and see if the problem is solved. There are many designs for multimeters. Set yous up for DC, and use a range that is greater than 15V, 0-20 scale would be better, if your meter has it. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: dontoy at comcast.net To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 23:40:35 +0000 (UTC) Dear Sages of the List, (Lawrie Alexander) Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive ground to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. Yes, I did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. All was good prior to the switch. It seems to be holding it's own while just the engine is running. As soon as I turn on the headlights I show a fair discharge. I would love to use a multimeter to check the generator output prior to taking it out. I do have a multimeter but so many placesB (6) to plug in the probesB on the multimeter. and so many settings on the dial. I get somewhat cornfused. Any help out there. Any troubleshooting advice would be very much appreciated.B Donald J. Toy "all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well" _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Mon Aug 27 11:10:20 2012 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 13:10:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play Message-ID: Listers, Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" in my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. Took off the black covers over the turn signal switch and see the problem. The movement is right at the top of the column behind the self canceling arms. Has anyone else replaced that upper nylon bearing(#24 in Moss catalog)? I know the wheel must come off, anything else? The horn problem, incidentally, is caused by there being no ground at the column itself. I plan to ground a wire from the steering column clamp to a body ground under the dash for a repair. Horns checked out and they work. TIA, From lrc at red4est.com Mon Aug 27 12:36:23 2012 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 11:36:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts Message-ID: <69DC2ED3-9F94-4C21-B1F8-E3D49DF31FBF@red4est.com> I spent yesterday taking the parts off the shelves, replacing the particle board shelves and started photographing the parts as I put them away. I made decent progress on the project, and have at least gotten most of the "big parts" that were on those shelves. Here are the extra parts so far: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631274332080/ -- Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From frankk12 at verizon.net Mon Aug 27 12:56:11 2012 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 14:56:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts References: <69DC2ED3-9F94-4C21-B1F8-E3D49DF31FBF@red4est.com> Message-ID: Is that all? Consider yourself lucky if that's all you have! My spare parts consist of the entire second floor of my shop and most of the first florr not occupied by my MGs stored there with my Triumph Bonneville. The rest is outside my shop under a tarp! Frank Krajewski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Colen" To: "MG List" Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 2:36 PM Subject: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts >I spent yesterday taking the parts off the shelves, replacing the particle > board shelves and started photographing the parts as I put them away. I > made > decent progress on the project, and have at least gotten most of the "big > parts" that were on those shelves. > > > --> From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 27 17:02:54 2012 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:02:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] wx changing In-Reply-To: <1345985809.74451.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1345985809.74451.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1346108574.2798.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey, Rick, good to hear from you... As you might have seen, I have recently got my '76B resuscitated with some help from Pete Cosmides at the Motorcar Garage... I do need to do a couple of things to it - the steering wheel is slightly off-kilter (probably from when I removed/ replaced the rack a couple of years ago when changing the engine mounts). It kinda drives me crazy. Also, the front end really needs new bushings. And I'd sorta like to get rid of the generic 'cube' fuel pump and replace it with an OEM-style. But really, I want to get back to the '65 project car. Just need to sit and ponder where I am and where I'm going with it. It's basically stripped except for engine/trans, brake lines and wiring. Dan D '76 B Driver - yeah! '65 B Project Central NJ USA ________________________________ From: Rick Lindsay To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 8:56 AM Subject: [Mgs] wx changing Hi Friends, Long time, no type. No longer owning an MG keeps me pretty quiet these days. Still, after the first of the year I may be helping a friend rebuild/restore his Midget. That should be fun. Just putting the metric tools away will be a treat. :-P If you will allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you my near-field plans. We've had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s and that has me thinking about the TR3. As any of you living in the deep south know, our open sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on unbearably hot, sun drenched summer days. That is certainly the case here in Houston, Texas. And I have lived here long enough now that a couple of cooler days has me thinking about open motoring. Problem is that my TR3 has a dead fuel pump. Well, that and the fact that it is a Triumph. :-P The weather has discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find myself pondering the job. Parts are already in hand but today is already booked. Next weekend (almost) for sure! What are your plans / projects? I miss you guys... -rick, in sunny Houston _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Aug 27 17:55:52 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:55:52 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts In-Reply-To: <69DC2ED3-9F94-4C21-B1F8-E3D49DF31FBF@red4est.com> Message-ID: Find any rebuildable HS-4s in that pile? I see you have enough Lucas distributors to black out the west coast. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/27/12 11:36 AM, Larry Colen at lrc at red4est.com wrote: > I spent yesterday taking the parts off the shelves, replacing the particle > board shelves and started photographing the parts as I put them away. I made > decent progress on the project, and have at least gotten most of the "big > parts" that were on those shelves. > > Here are the extra parts so far: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631274332080/ > > -- > Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com sent from i4est From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Aug 28 01:47:43 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 08:47:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play References: Message-ID: <25A0A472BFDB49ECBAE383E4CC3D3709@paul> Depends if your 67 is a Mk1 or a Mk2 as the column changed from solid to collapsible then. On the earlier one the inner is simply a sliding fit in the outer, so once removed from the car probably easy enough to drift the bush out from the bottom. Even though the horn arrangements changed at the same time in both cases an earth on the column shaft should go through the wheel boss to the body of the horn push, then through the horn switch when operated. Mk1 cars then went through the centre rivet on the horn push, to a 'bullet' on a wire in an insulated hole down the middle of the column shaft to the brass cylindrical slip-ring mounted on but insulated from the column shaft just below the splines. The fixed contact rests on the slip-ring as the wheel is turned, and is wired out to the horns. Mk2 cars then went through an offset spring-loaded pencil resting on the back of a flat slip ring attached to the back of the wheel hub, and the fixed contact rested on that, wired out to the horns as earlier. I'd be very surprised if earthing the outer tube of the steering column fixed the problem as that is bolted to the bodywork behind the dash anyway. The column shaft gets its earth through the UJ, rack shaft, rack outer, front cross-member from the chassis rails. It's not uncommon for cars with the later full energy absorbing column to have a high resistance in that path but I've not heard of a chrome bumper car having that problem. If linking the fixed contact below the wheel to a clean part of the column shaft sounds the horn then the problem is in the horn switch or between that and the slip ring. If that doesn't sound the horn but linking the fixed contact to some other metal work (try the column outer as well as the bodywork it is bolted to) does, then the problem *is* a missing earth from the column inner. If the column outer sounds the horn then providing another earth won't help. Ideally you need to test wrt earth with a voltmeter on the column shaft, slip-ring and fixed contact as you are pressing the horn button to see which how the voltages rise and fall. You could have more than one high resistance rather than a complete open-circuit, as I did on my RB V8. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" > in > my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. From mgbob at juno.com Tue Aug 28 06:06:45 2012 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 12:06:45 GMT Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play Message-ID: <20120828.080645.9341.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com> Using the nylon/delrin busing from GEM, I replaced the worn bushing. It was quick and easy. A great improvement--the vibration in column was gone, and steering seemed easier. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "W. David Houser" To: MGList List Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 13:10:20 -0400 Listers, Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" in my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. Took off the black covers over the turn signal switch and see the problem. The movement is right at the top of the column behind the self canceling arms. Has anyone else replaced that upper nylon bearing(#24 in Moss catalog)? I know the wheel must come off, anything else? The horn problem, incidentally, is caused by there being no ground at the column itself. I plan to ground a wire from the steering column clamp to a body ground under the dash for a repair. Horns checked out and they work. TIA, _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From dontoy at comcast.net Tue Aug 28 09:53:57 2012 From: dontoy at comcast.net (dontoy at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 15:53:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems In-Reply-To: <1008964424.1025789.1346024435857.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1802807204.1106539.1346169237444.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Thanks to Bob and Paul for helping me out with the charging problem. Turns out that maybe just maybe it takes one two or three sparks to repolarize the generator. Also a big thanks to L awrie Alexander who authored the tech help on the subject. He alluded to the fact that it just might not repolarize on the first spark. Seems like this would have been the time for my if one is enough then 15 should be really good attitude. Thanks again. Enjoy your cars. Time for a drive :^) Donald J. Toy "all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well" From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Aug 29 16:47:34 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 17:47:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Back in the Saddle Again.... In-Reply-To: <1346020166.11830.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1346020166.11830.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <503E9C06.1090304@ktc.com> Looks good Dan! -- Congrats! CR On 8/26/2012 5:29 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Well, I picked up the '76 B from the shop yesterday and had an uneventful (besides the rain) 50-mile drive home... Car runs great, From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Aug 29 16:55:32 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 17:55:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not in the column. IOW, current flows from ground, through the horns, through the switch on the steering column and to the battery. Note: I don't want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows! CR On 8/27/2012 12:10 PM, W. David Houser wrote: > Listers, > Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" in > my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. Took off the black covers over the > turn signal switch and see the problem. The movement is right at the top of > the column behind the self canceling arms. Has anyone else replaced that upper > nylon bearing(#24 in Moss catalog)? I know the wheel must come off, anything > else? > The horn problem, incidentally, is caused by there being no ground at the > column itself. I plan to ground a wire from the steering column clamp to a > body ground under the dash for a repair. Horns checked out and they work. > TIA, > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com From bobmgtd at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 17:35:58 2012 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:35:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems References: <20120827.095900.26169.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Donald, check to see if your generator is putting out positive voltage. Maybe the field winding needs to be sparked a few more times. A few tips: I've found on my TD that the radiated electrical noise is so bad, I have to use a "non-electronic" voltmeter to measure the battery voltage when the motor is running. Any meter that has transistors or vacuum tubes gives bogus readings. Perhaps this is due to the steel plug wires and non-resistor spark plugs? The interference to a radio must be massive! You probably already know that a generator shows a discharge at idle. Ammeters are fine, but I think a voltmeter gives a better indication of the charging situation. If you get a reading between 13 and 14 volts running down the road with the headlights on, the charging system is probably OK. (My stock Lucas voltage regulator was set at 16 volts, and the shop manual seems to support this voltage. But this is way too high. I backed mine down to 14 volts.) Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 9:59 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems > You wrote that all was good before changing the polarity. Did you mean > that > the dynamo was charging as it should, then, but not now? > If it worked properly then, and you sparked/polarised it, then it should > b > ok now. > I suspect the control box. Clean its points and see if the problem is > solved. > There are many designs for multimeters. Set yous up for DC, and use a > range > that is greater than 15V, 0-20 scale would be better, if your meter has > it. > Bob > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: dontoy at comcast.net > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems > Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 23:40:35 +0000 (UTC) > > Dear Sages of the List, (Lawrie Alexander) > > > > Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive > ground > to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. > Yes, > I > did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. All was good prior to > the > switch. It seems to be holding it's own while just the engine is running. > As > soon as I turn on the headlights I show a fair discharge. I would love to > use > a multimeter to check the generator output prior to taking it out. I do > have > a > multimeter but so many placesB (6) to plug in the probesB on the > multimeter. > and so many settings on the dial. I get somewhat cornfused. Any help out > there. Any troubleshooting advice would be very much appreciated.B > > > Donald J. Toy > "all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well" > _______________________________________________ From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 29 18:10:53 2012 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:10:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play In-Reply-To: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> References: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> Message-ID: <363A116D201F4EA5934E67DB7771F0D1@HomePC> ----Original Message----- From: Charley & Peggy Robinson Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 5:55 PM To: W. David Houser Cc: MGList List Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not in the column. IOW, current flows from ground, through the horns, through the switch on the steering column and to the battery. Note: I don't want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows! CR ========================================= I just checked... the current was pretty much going downstream. Sorry, CR. Couldn't help myself. Larry From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 29 20:52:09 2012 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 21:52:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play In-Reply-To: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> References: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> Message-ID: <503ED559.1070503@sbcglobal.net> Not if you have positive ground. Think older MGs Charles Hill On 8/29/2012 5:55 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote: > Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not > in the column. IOW, current flows from ground, through the horns, > through the switch on the steering column and to the battery. Note: > I don't want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows! > > CR From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Aug 30 01:49:09 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:49:09 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play References: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> <503ED559.1070503@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <9027CD03C6B64B5E8D4BF36EFCDAA44A@paul> Not even most negative grounds. The earth wasn't at the horns and 12v from the switch until the 77 year (although some schematics don't even show it that way then). Until then the earth always came from the switch, picked up from the column shaft for the wheel centre button except for the 1970 year when it was wired to the column stalk switch. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Not if you have positive ground. Think older MGs > > On 8/29/2012 5:55 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote: >> Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not in >> the column. IOW, current flows from ground, through the horns, through >> the switch on the steering column and to the battery. Note: I don't >> want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows! From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Aug 30 01:56:24 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:56:24 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems References: <20120827.095900.26169.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: The electro-mechanical regulator is rather temperature dependant. The MGB Workshop Manual quotes 14.3 to 14.9v at 40C/104F, but 14.9 to 15.5v at 10C/50F. 16v *is* too high (for an MGB at any rate), but 14v is too low, adjust it to that at low temperatures and it will be under-charging at higher temps. The electronic alternator regulator is quoted at 14.3 to 14.7, but the lower end of that can be too low, at one point Mercedes were having to select regulators at the higher end of the range as the lower end was causing premature battery failure on cars not used daily. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > (My stock Lucas voltage regulator was set at 16 volts, and the shop manual > seems to support this voltage. But this is way too high. I backed mine > down to 14 volts.) From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Aug 30 04:19:47 2012 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 05:19:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems In-Reply-To: References: <20120827.095900.26169.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <201208301019.q7UAJmII013752@nlpi155.prodigy.net> >----- Original Message ----- >(My stock Lucas voltage regulator was set at 16 volts, and the shop >manual seems to support this voltage. But this is way too high. I >backed mine down to 14 volts.) I don't recall who wrote that, but it is not exactly what the book says, and it is misleading. The book instructions call for disconnecting the cables from control box terminals A and A1 and connecting them together while testing voltage or adjusting the control box. Then the regulator relay should be adjusted to make the dynamo generate "around" 16 volts (depending on ambient temperature). There is a sentence missing from the instructions in the book. It should additionally say, "When finished testing, reconnect the cables to control box terminals A and A1". What that does is to disconnect the car's electrical load AND the battery from the dynamo, so it will be running with zero electrical load during the test or adjustment. Under those circumstances (no load) it should be adjusted to make about 16 volts. However once the load is reconnected to the dynamo it will not put out 16 volts. When there is an electrical load the dynamo output voltage will drop significantly, and the greater the current draw the lower the voltage. Since voltage varies depending on a variable load, it is best to test or adjust the regulator with no load so the results will be consistent and repeatable. When the thing is adjusted by the book, then reconnected and run under load, the voltage will be substantially lower. When running with only the ignition and fuel pump under power and the battery fully charged, the voltage (at elevated engine speed) may be around 15.5 volts at the dynamo output terminal. With headlights and other electrical equipment switched on the dynamo output voltage may be around 14.5 volts. If the battery is significantly discharged and drawing a lot of current during recharging, you might see only 14 volts at dynamo output, and possibly as low as 13.5 volts at the battery terminals, depending on state of charge of the battery. So if you are measuring system voltage with the cables connected (normal electrical load), then 16 volts is too high, and 14 volts is too low. My Mitsubishi 60 amp alternator will put out 14.52 +/- 0.02 volts under any load circumstances with any engine speed of 700 rpm or greater. Don't expect a generator to be that consistent. A generator will put out far less current and lower voltage at low speed, so it is intended to be adjusted to put out slightly higher voltage (than the alternator) at higher speed and low load to make it average out well enough to keep the battery charged with higher load. You just have to get used to the fact that with a generator the system voltage varies considerably with various load and engine speed. Running with headlights switched off and battery mostly charges, 15 volts at the dynamo output terminal is pretty good, and it should never do 16 volts with the battery connected to the generator. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From lundgren at byu.net Thu Aug 30 10:59:32 2012 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 10:59:32 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT? Message-ID: <503F9BF4.5030107@byu.net> http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/12368957 Anyone driven one with a GM V6 in it? What about the price? -- Andrew From ccrobins at ktc.com Thu Aug 30 11:02:04 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 12:02:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play In-Reply-To: <9027CD03C6B64B5E8D4BF36EFCDAA44A@paul> References: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> <503ED559.1070503@sbcglobal.net> <9027CD03C6B64B5E8D4BF36EFCDAA44A@paul> Message-ID: <503F9C8C.2090503@ktc.com> I have a '69 MGB, with a stalk switch and the ground is at the horns. Guess I should have said, "On my '69................" Agree that the wiring diagrams may contain a few errors. :-) CR CR On 8/30/2012 2:49 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote: > Not even most negative grounds. The earth wasn't at the horns and 12v > from the switch until the 77 year (although some schematics don't even > show it that way then). Until then the earth always came from the > switch, picked up from the column shaft for the wheel centre button > except for the 1970 year when it was wired to the column stalk switch. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> Not if you have positive ground. Think older MGs >> >> On 8/29/2012 5:55 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote: >>> Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, >>> not in the column. IOW, current flows from ground, through the >>> horns, through the switch on the steering column and to the >>> battery. Note: I don't want to hear any arguments about which >>> direction current flows! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Aug 30 11:38:31 2012 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 10:38:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT? In-Reply-To: <503F9BF4.5030107@byu.net> Message-ID: A friend has an Alpine with this motor, and a 5-spd. It pulls like a freight train (compared to the 1725, at least). on 8/30/12 9:59 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote: > http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/12368957 > > Anyone driven one with a GM V6 in it? What about the price? > > -- > Andrew -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Aug 31 05:46:02 2012 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 12:46:02 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play References: <503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com> <503ED559.1070503@sbcglobal.net> <9027CD03C6B64B5E8D4BF36EFCDAA44A@paul> <503F9C8C.2090503@ktc.com> Message-ID: <40A76D1332144399AC3D3C89CD1288A5@paul> That would need two wires going through the stalk, they would have to be pretty thin, and the horns take quite a lot of current. I was under the impression that the earth for the switch was fed up the metal tube of the stalk, meaning only one wire - purple/black - coming down and going out to the horns. The main colour of purple indicates it is controlling a device connected to the fused, always live supply, and the tracer colour of black indicates that an earth is connected to operate the device. Generally speaking when a wire colour was first used that was the convention, although if there were subsequent changes, as from 77 when the horns *were* backed by an earth instead of 12v, they kept the colour of the controlling wire. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I have a '69 MGB, with a stalk switch and the ground is at the horns. >Guess I should have said, "On my '69................" Agree that the >wiring diagrams may contain a few errors. :-) > > CR > > CR > On 8/30/2012 2:49 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote: >> Not even most negative grounds. The earth wasn't at the horns and 12v >> from the switch until the 77 year (although some schematics don't even >> show it that way then). Until then the earth always came from the >> switch, picked up from the column shaft for the wheel centre button >> except for the 1970 year when it was wired to the column stalk switch. >> >> PaulH. From ccrobins at ktc.com Fri Aug 31 13:24:51 2012 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 14:24:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT? In-Reply-To: <503F9BF4.5030107@byu.net> References: <503F9BF4.5030107@byu.net> Message-ID: <50410F83.70407@ktc.com> Looks good from the outside. On a car that had an engine/tranny swap I'd always like to see how the swap was done. Sounds like it has a single exhaust setup. Price looks OK if it's rust-free and the swap was executed well. CR On 8/30/2012 11:59 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote: > http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/12368957 > > Anyone driven one with a GM V6 in it? What about the price? > > -- > Andrew > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com