From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Apr  1 08:38:32 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 15:38:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
References: <1333239903.49297.YahooMailClassic@web113311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D26D8B5DF23D4E558977B0EE739AC81F@paul>

Cutting a wire ?  Sacrilege!  Shouldn't be necessary 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext2.htm#uprated

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> It is a very well thought out setup that requires only cutting one wire 
> and it
> is completely reversable if wanted.

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sun Apr  1 14:28:06 2012
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 13:28:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
In-Reply-To: <CB9D00BE.3914C%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1333312086.10697.YahooMailClassic@web113316.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Sorry I missed this email last night.

If you look at the pictures as you scroll down you will see w pic where most
people mount them onto the radiator support bar. Some have also velcrod them
to the lip behind the radiator. I believe Eric will ask you your vin to
determine which one to send you. He is coming back this week from snowbirding
it so he might not answer you right off.
Carl

--- On Sat, 3/31/12, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:

From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, March 31, 2012, 9:43 PM

Thanks for the link, that looks like a well-designed setup.

The first one I found was MAD Electric -- it was generic for any kind of
car. Then I saw the Moss one, but it looks pretty skimpy compared to this
kit.

Does the 73 use the "standard" kit or the "long" kit? Where did you mount
the relays?


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 3/31/12 5:25 PM, Carl French at leylandauto at yahoo.com wrote:

> I can Very Highly recommend this product;
> http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html
>
> Eric Marshall who makes these products stands fully and actively behind
them.
> It is a very well thought out setup that requires only cutting one wire and
it
> is completely reversable if wanted.
> I have it in both 73 GT's and love them.
> FWIW, YMMV
> Carl
>
> --- On Sat, 3/31/12, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
>
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, March 31, 2012, 3:12 PM
>
> I just stumbled upon this item (#117-515) in the Moss catalog, and I was
> wondering if anyone had any experience with it. The description is rather
> sparse. In the past I have read tech articles about installing headlight
> relays. I was wondering if this came with good instructions, quality wire,
> etc.
> TIA.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/leylandauto at yahoo.com

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Apr  1 17:36:49 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (simon.d.matthews)
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 23:36:49 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] You are invited to view "simon.d.matthews's photo"
Message-ID: <14dae9340c73358d1d04bca68c5f@google.com>

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JB_8Exdn4qwOVTEvI8hrqHfYyiP1RYH6WBN8oMNJUgg?feat=email

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of picasaweblogo-en_US.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1080319.JPG]

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Apr  1 17:39:51 2012
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 16:39:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
 regular nuts?
In-Reply-To: <20120325185950.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ec81277217.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>
References: <20120325185950.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ec81277217.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyOA-+K+CFMRwO9jDY8wC-S24PM0Dxod_Z5aVPLZ-Y0VSA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Mar 25, 2012 at 6:59 PM, <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> nylocs are great; just make sure you get grade 5 minimum.  i like grade
> 8.  and i assume you know not to reuse them (well, anywhere it counts . .
> .).  and a lock washer doesn't hurt.
>
> fyi - there are companies that refurb prop shafts for a very reasonable
> $$.
>


Here is a photo of  the damaged u-joint and yoke.  I doubt it is
economically repairable
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JB_8Exdn4qwOVTEvI8hrqHfYyiP1RYH6WBN8oMNJUgg?feat=directlink

Simon

>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
> regular nuts?
> From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
> Date: Sun, March 25, 2012 6:52 pm
> To: MGS <mgs at autox.team.net>
>
> We just removed the prop shaft from the '71 MGB GT that my kids drive.
> According to my Haynes manual, the prop shaft should be held in place by
> bolts that are inserter through the flanges of the propshaft first, then
> through the flanges on the gearbox and differential, with the nuts on the
> outer side.
>
> What we found was that the bolts were inserted the other way. In fact, at
> the gearbox end, after removing the nuts and pulling the propshaft of the
> bolts, the bolts can not be removed -- there is not enough space. These
> bolts have a circular head with a small segment removed. When pushed fully
> in the removed segment meshes with something in the flange and stops the
> bolt from rotating.
>
> While removing the prop shaft, we found Nylok nuts while the Haynes manual
> shows regular nuts and washers.
>
> Is it sensible to replace the Nylok nuts with new Nylok nuts? Or go back
> to what the Haynes manual shows?
>
> The rear universal joint had completely failed - to the point that it had
> also damaged the shaft where the U-joint fastens into the shaft. It is just
> as well that I had ordered a complete new shaft when I noticed some play in
> the U-joint while adjusting the brakes!
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dave at ranteer.com

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Sun Apr  1 20:31:53 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 21:31:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-eQzJigRw4XY-Qz1R0tNU74EwyHHV9zv5G7Tf5RuhZnTQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am all for adding relays to our car. I have had extensive electrical
upgrading on my Healey and am waiting my next at the shop to get the same
things done for the BGT. Turning on the ignition activates a 72A relay
which switches power directly from the battery terminal on the solenoid to
an eight position  fuse block.

You only need one realy for both high and low beams. Most relays have two
sets of contacts. One normally closed, and one normally open. The low beams
go through the normally closed contacts. When you want the high beams you
activate the relay and the normally open contacts close and the normally
closed contacts open. That way the most used low beams are activated
passively and the relay is only used for high beams.. In the unlikely event
of a relay failure, you always have the low beams.

BTW, The 75A realy is fused, and the light relay is activated by the light
switch with the current for the headlights coming directly from the battery
through a fuse on the block. The block uses blade fuses.

The block and relays came for www.ties4less.com. No interest other than a
satisfied customer.

Jack

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  1 22:55:33 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 22:55:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Archive progress
Message-ID: <4F793145.5070907@bradakis.com>

I have been working on  the archives.  They are still not perfect, but a 
lot
more of the posts from the last few years are there now.

Link below, enjoy.

mjb.

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr  2 19:03:47 2012
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 20:03:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-eQzJigRw4XY-Qz1R0tNU74EwyHHV9zv5G7Tf5RuhZnTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-eQzJigRw4XY-Qz1R0tNU74EwyHHV9zv5G7Tf5RuhZnTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F7A4C73.2050009@sbcglobal.net>

Jack,
I don't understand what you are describing.  If you are using only one 
relay for the lights and the low beam side is normally closed, then 
doesn't the full current for the low beam lights still go through the 
light switch?  Or am I missing something?

Charles Hill

On 4/1/2012 9:31 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
> I am all for adding relays to our car. I have had extensive electrical
> upgrading on my Healey and am waiting my next at the shop to get the same
> things done for the BGT. Turning on the ignition activates a 72A relay
> which switches power directly from the battery terminal on the solenoid to
> an eight position  fuse block.
>
> You only need one realy for both high and low beams. Most relays have two
> sets of contacts. One normally closed, and one normally open. The low beams
> go through the normally closed contacts. When you want the high beams you
> activate the relay and the normally open contacts close and the normally
> closed contacts open. That way the most used low beams are activated
> passively and the relay is only used for high beams.. In the unlikely event
> of a relay failure, you always have the low beams.
>
> BTW, The 75A realy is fused, and the light relay is activated by the light
> switch with the current for the headlights coming directly from the battery
> through a fuse on the block. The block uses blade fuses.
>
> The block and relays came for www.ties4less.com. No interest other than a
> satisfied customer.
>
> Jack

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Apr  3 01:35:32 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 08:35:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
References: <CAGhWe-eQzJigRw4XY-Qz1R0tNU74EwyHHV9zv5G7Tf5RuhZnTQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4F7A4C73.2050009@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <30A4DB1002FC42D7B062C262C9DD2ADF@paul>

Exactly, which tends to defeat the object rather, except that the dipped 
beam does usually take a little less current than main beam.

I'd also question the statement "Most relays have two sets of contacts" - 
yes they exist, but you have to search them out, the most commonly available 
auto relays only have a single normally open contact.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I don't understand what you are describing.  If you are using only one 
> relay for the lights and the low beam side is normally closed, then 
> doesn't the full current for the low beam lights still go through the 
> light switch?  Or am I missing something?

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Apr  3 05:26:50 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 04:26:50 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit
In-Reply-To: <4F7A4C73.2050009@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAGhWe-eQzJigRw4XY-Qz1R0tNU74EwyHHV9zv5G7Tf5RuhZnTQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4F7A4C73.2050009@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4A5BF352-DF2A-46C2-83BF-C1006FC40B0F@gmail.com>

Unless you want your low beams on all the time* as daytime running lights
there is no way to do this with a single standard DIN switching relay, unless
you are running the low beam current through the switch.
A specialty hi beam/ low beam relay would do it with a single unit but these
are actually 2 relays in a single package.

*All the time meaning driving, parked, key on, key off. The lights would stay
on until the battery goes dead. Maybe not the best way to wire your LBC.


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 2, 2012, at 18:03, Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Jack,
> I don't understand what you are describing.  If you are using only one relay
for the lights and the low beam side is normally closed, then doesn't the full
current for the low beam lights still go through the light switch?  Or am I
missing something?
>
> Charles Hill
>
> On 4/1/2012 9:31 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
>> I am all for adding relays to our car. I have had extensive electrical
>> upgrading on my Healey and am waiting my next at the shop to get the same
>> things done for the BGT. Turning on the ignition activates a 72A relay
>> which switches power directly from the battery terminal on the solenoid to
>> an eight position  fuse block.
>>
>> You only need one realy for both high and low beams. Most relays have two
>> sets of contacts. One normally closed, and one normally open. The low
beams
>> go through the normally closed contacts. When you want the high beams you
>> activate the relay and the normally open contacts close and the normally
>> closed contacts open. That way the most used low beams are activated
>> passively and the relay is only used for high beams.. In the unlikely
event
>> of a relay failure, you always have the low beams.
>>
>> BTW, The 75A realy is fused, and the light relay is activated by the light
>> switch with the current for the headlights coming directly from the
battery
>> through a fuse on the block. The block uses blade fuses.
>>
>> The block and relays came for www.ties4less.com. No interest other than a
>> satisfied customer.
>>
>> Jack
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed Apr  4 12:50:29 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 13:50:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss headlight relay kit - An Apology
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-f9qZQM0cN8WHuPe7YTHU5H6+k9ATwY1Fqay+8g3Ej-xQ@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like Charles was correct. I spent some time trying to diagram my
suggestion, and just can't do it. I apologise to the groups for the
misleading statement.

However, I am still a believer in having all the current for the
accessories come from the battery terminal through a 75A relay, and then to
a fuse block where it is distributed to the various items that need
current. I am thinking of putting an impact switch in the lead that
activates the 75A relay. That way in an accident all the current, not just
the gas pump, will be turned off.

Jack

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Apr  6 17:37:32 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 17:37:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA air hoses?
Message-ID: <4F7F7E3C.1000403@bradakis.com>

I was working on an MGA today replacing the 4" air duct hoses.
The one that goes to the heater was no problem.  The one on the
left side of the engine bay that goes ? and needs a bracket attached
at ? was a problem.

Anyone have some photos detailing the location and mounting of
this hose?

mjb.

From otis15 at aol.com  Fri Apr  6 17:41:09 2012
From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 19:41:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Heater box
Message-ID: <8CEE265E0E63B23-1D24-FEB@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>

I have a rebuilt engine and 5 speed conversion ready to go in my 71 G.T. but
decided to paint the engine compartment which I have completely striped except
for the?HEATER BOX?which I was going to mask before I painted. Heres the good
part, I HAVE DECIDED TO REMOVE THE HEATER BOX. Don't say it, I've read a dozen
write ups on the subject in the last few hours and I'm going to do it tomorrow
morning anyway. What I'm asking for is your Prayers. Apparantlly that's the
only thing that will help. Thanks.
?
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
???????????????????? Steve

From pchast at francomm.com  Fri Apr  6 20:38:12 2012
From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast)
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 22:38:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Heater box
In-Reply-To: <8CEE265E0E63B23-1D24-FEB@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CEE265E0E63B23-1D24-FEB@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <op.wcdijzl1sjevdj@pete200>

You got them.


On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 19:41:09 -0400, <otis15 at aol.com> wrote:

> I have a rebuilt engine and 5 speed conversion ready to go in my 71 G.T.  
> but
> decided to paint the engine compartment which I have completely striped  
> except
> for the?HEATER BOX?which I was going to mask before I painted. Heres the  
> good
> part, I HAVE DECIDED TO REMOVE THE HEATER BOX. Don't say it, I've read a  
> dozen
> write ups on the subject in the last few hours and I'm going to do it  
> tomorrow
> morning anyway. What I'm asking for is your Prayers. Apparantlly that's  
> the
> only thing that will help. Thanks.
> ?
> ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
> ???????????????????? Steve
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com


-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Apr  6 23:18:42 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 00:18:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA air hoses?
In-Reply-To: <4F7F7E3C.1000403@bradakis.com>
References: <4F7F7E3C.1000403@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <201204070518.q375IdPa007218@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

mjb.,

It is tough to tke a picture in that area with an assembled car.  I 
can tell you that the original bolt for the forward P-clip goes 
through the horizontal air pan in the outboard corner near the body 
mount.  You need to form the hose to fit first, push it onto the top 
connector pipe, then position the P-clip and install the bolt 
last.  It is a lot easier if the grille is not in place at the 
time.  That bolt has given me so much grief over the years that I 
drilled another hole inboard from the hose and turned the P-clip 
around to make life easier.

Barney Gayord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com



At 05:37 PM 4/6/2012 -0600, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>I was working on an MGA today replacing the 4" air duct hoses. The 
>one that goes to the heater was no problem.  The one on the left 
>side of the engine bay that goes ? and needs a bracket attached at ? 
>was a problem.
>
>Anyone have some photos detailing the location and mounting of this hose?
>....

From barrie at look.ca  Sat Apr  7 10:44:22 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 12:44:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Fan
Message-ID: <E1SGYkR-0004N9-Mp@theta.look.ca>

I have a high performance Perma-Cool 14" electric radiator fan that 
puts out a stonking 2.950 CFM.  It is in first class condition but I 
have to part with it.  They cost $266 new so I was hoping to get $150 
for it ???  Any offers.   By the way I put a radial baffle on to 
increase effectiveness.

Photo on request.

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Apr  7 12:56:52 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 11:56:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA air hoses?
In-Reply-To: <201204070518.q375IdPa007218@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
References: <4F7F7E3C.1000403@bradakis.com>
	<201204070518.q375IdPa007218@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <1333825012.35631.YahooMailNeo@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>


> It is tough to tke a picture
in that area with an assembled car.  I can tell you 
> that the original bolt
for the forward P-clip goes through the horizontal air 
> pan in the outboard
corner near the body mount.  You need to form the hose to 
> fit first, push
it onto the top connector pipe, then position the P-clip and 
> install the
bolt last.  It is a lot easier if the grille is not in place at the 
> time. 
That bolt has given me so much grief over the years that I drilled 
> another
hole inboard from the hose and turned the P-clip around to make life 
>
easier.

This is the way mine was done, at the bottom of the page linked
below.
I seem to remember Barney commenting on this a few years ago, but I
don't remember if he said if it's correct or it's somehow wrong...
http://tildebang.com/mg/index34.html

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Apr  7 14:25:36 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 15:25:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA air hoses?
In-Reply-To: <1333825012.35631.YahooMailNeo@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
  >
References: <4F7F7E3C.1000403@bradakis.com>
	<201204070518.q375IdPa007218@nlpi157.prodigy.net>
	<1333825012.35631.YahooMailNeo@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201204072025.q37KPXfq002692@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

Yeah, that's wrong,  The hose should be tucked as much as possible 
back into the corner so only about half of the open end should be 
visible in the front view.  I don't have a picture but someone else 
did put one up a while ago showing the correct position for the air 
hoses.  If I see it again I may post it on my web site. -- Barney


At 11:56 AM 4/7/2012 -0700, David Breneman wrote:

>  From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
> >> It is tough to tke a picture in that area with an assembled 
> car.  I can tell you  that the original bolt for the forward P-clip 
> goes through the horizontal air pan in the outboard corner near the 
> body mount.  You need to form the hose to fit first, push it onto 
> the top connector pipe, then position the P-clip and install the 
> bolt last.  It is a lot easier if the grille is not in place at the 
> time.  That bolt has given me so much grief over the years that I 
> drilled another hole inboard from the hose and turned the P-clip 
> around to make life  easier.
>
>
>This is the way mine was done, at the bottom of the page linked 
>below.  I seem to remember Barney commenting on this a few years 
>ago, but I don't remember if he said if it's correct or it's somehow 
>wrong... http://tildebang.com/mg/index34.html

From DMatt21502 at aol.com  Sat Apr  7 19:32:36 2012
From: DMatt21502 at aol.com (DMatt21502 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 21:32:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Subject:  Heater box
Message-ID: <7aed2.903efe5.3cb244b4@aol.com>

Steve, If after tackling the heater box you decide to give up on the  
project I would be interested in your 5 speed transmission!!! :)   Seriously, It 
is a time consuming job and can be frustrating but fact  that the engine is 
out of the car will improve your odds. I did the same  job a few years ago 
and it turned out fine. Also you will be much happier with  the engine 
compartment detailing. Also while you have the heater box out take  the time and 
money to replace all gaskets and hoses and have the core checked by  a 
radiator shop. You don't want to do it twice!! Good Luck   Dave 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Apr  7 20:12:23 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 21:12:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 59, Issue 5
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15.1333821603.31210.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1333821603.31210.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4F80F407.2010005@comcast.net>

We have nothing to fear but fear itself.

There is a tab on top of the heater box. If you grind that down to about 
half the distance between the screw hole and the end of the tab you will 
find it easier to put back in. I'm sure you've read up on the control 
cable issue and I don't remember if that's an issue for a 71 car so I'll 
leave it alone. Put the heater box back in before you insert the engine 
and transmission. You will find it easier while standing inside an empty 
engine bay. That is assuming using new seals. All things considered, 
it's not that big of a deal. Taking the passenger seat out will 
facilitate getting to the control cable fitting inside the plenum when 
you're putting it all back together (four bolts as opposed to a 60 year 
old man).

As long as you've got the box out, I would recommend sealing the heater 
plenum (POR-15 or anything similar). If your infamous duckbill drain 
tube is in place, I would leave it in place and paint around it 
(especially avoid getting POR-15 on the hose clamp in case some 
enterprising individual decides to start making them again and we can 
all breath a sigh of relief). I took mine out and discovered my mistake 
when trying to reinstall. If yours is still soft and pliable you'll have 
better luck. Just getting the upper end back onto the drain fitting was 
a bear for me.

You need prayers for your life. For this job you just need patience.

Glenn

On 4/7/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 19:41:09 -0400 (EDT)
> From:otis15 at aol.com
> To:Mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Heater box
> Message-ID:<8CEE265E0E63B23-1D24-FEB at webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have a rebuilt engine and 5 speed conversion ready to go in my 71 G.T. but
> decided to paint the engine compartment which I have completely striped except
> for the?HEATER BOX?which I was going to mask before I painted. Heres the good
> part, I HAVE DECIDED TO REMOVE THE HEATER BOX. Don't say it, I've read a dozen
> write ups on the subject in the last few hours and I'm going to do it tomorrow
> morning anyway. What I'm asking for is your Prayers. Apparantlly that's the
> only thing that will help. Thanks.
> ?
> ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
> ???????????????????? Steve

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sun Apr  8 08:58:52 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2012 09:58:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4F793145.5070907@bradakis.com>
References: <4F793145.5070907@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4F81A7AC.8020306@ktc.com>

  After letting the car sit in the garage for over a year, I finally got 
around to replacing the brake MC on my '69 B.  What a PITA!

  I used a new reproductiom MC from Moss because I wanted to replace the 
trap valves, which one has to reuse when replacing with a rebuilt MC.  I 
had an intermittent problem with the brakes failing completely - pedal 
to the metal - which I deduced was because one or both of the  trap 
valves (called compensating valves in non-MG parlance) in the MC was 
sticking open.

Anyhoo, I finally got to use a Gunson Eezibleed brake & clutch bleeding 
kit that I bought long ago.  That doggone thing works great!  Beats the 
pie out of having the wife pump the pedal!   Of course you have to have 
a brake MC cap to sacrifice so as to install the pressure fitting in 
it.  No problem for me, since I replaced the entire MC.

So we took a ride to see bluebonnets on our TX hill country roads 
(Willow City loop for you Texans).  First time we've used the B since 
the summer of 2010.  I had forgotten how much fun it is to drive the B.

CR

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  8 16:55:14 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun,  8 Apr 2012 16:55:14 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Sometimes it works...
Message-ID: <20120408225514.40B4F2E076@bradakis.com>

 and sometimes it doesn't.  It is a beautiful Easter here in Salt Lake
City, wonderful spring weather.  I had big plans to get lots done in the
yard and in the garage this weekend.  But no, I'm sitting here at the
keyboard, have been inside all weekend with a cold.  So my weekend plans
didn't work out.

But one plan has worked out, and for over 20 years.  Yep, in April of
1991 Team.Net became a registered domain, and the lists and FTP service
and web pages moved from various machines at the U of U where I worked
at the time to a dedicated machine.  One aspect of that is that keeping
it running takes money out of my pocket.  Not that much, though I keep
thinking on checking just what size bite of my power bill the Team.Net
hardware does take.

Speaking of hardware, you are no doubt aware that Team.Net is running
on a nice new, well, new to me, server that was purchased with user
contributions last spring.  And no doubt you've noticed the transition
has had some issues, like with the archives and the forums.  I am working
on smoothing out the remaining wrinkles to keep it all flowing smoothly.

What you can do to keep it running smoothly is make a contribution
to the cause.  Information regarding how to do so can be found at
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Some of you have donated recently, especially during the 'Find Mark a job'
thread on the Healey list.  In case you are wondering I no longer am a
parts delivery guy but wrenching on cars again at Bailey's Service here
in Utah.  Spending $500 - $600 or so a month on gas and oil is something
I won't miss about the old job!

And I do appreciate the help I've gotten regarding the MGA air hoses.
I'll be able to install them properly thanks to you fols.


If you feel like Team.Net offers you something worth supporting, I would
appreciate a contribution.  If you'd rather not, don't worry about it.


Thanks,

mjb.

From otis15 at aol.com  Sun Apr  8 22:03:10 2012
From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 00:03:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Heater box
In-Reply-To: <8CEE41C0428711D-E64-1C11B@Webmail-d124.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CEE41C0428711D-E64-1C11B@Webmail-d124.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CEE41CCFFF9B21-E64-1C144@Webmail-d124.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: otis15 &lt;otis15 at aol.com&gt;
To: mgs &lt;mgs at auto.team.net&gt;
Sent: Sun, Apr 8, 2012 11:57 pm
Subject: Heater box

The heater box is out. I started about 9 a.m. Sat. and with a little wire
brushing and vaccuming done about 2 pm. I should say the car was a one owner
10 yrs. ago when I bought it and I believe the heater box was out once
before.
Inside- I removed the seats and console which had to come out for a new carpet
anyway, removed the defrost tubes and elbows and cable connections through the
heater outlet hole on the passengers side, kind of tight working space.
Outside- removed the screws and used a hammer to tap a stiff putty knife
around the bottom where the box sits on the balk head, after a little
wiggelying front to back, right to left it lifted right out. I did bend the
top tap a little for clearance. As Glenn suggested I'll cut a little of the
top tab when reinstalling, grind a round washer square put it on top of the
tab and run the screw through both. It will still look neat.
Thanks for the picture of the Mod. Barrie, that will make it easier. Also
Dematts suggestion, having the core ch ecked at a rad. shop would be smart,
and all new seals. Now the sanding and painting.
Thanks to all for the infomation and encouragement.
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Steve
As my wife watched, shaking her head I tried to explain to her " If it wasen't
for the challenge our M.G.'s wouldn't be half as much fun.
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Thanks
again

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Apr 11 21:22:48 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:22:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
Message-ID: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>

So I've had my car out for 2 weeks now. Driven it twice. With the top up.

With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
definitely louder on trailing throttle.

I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
Perhaps the exhaust?

Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.

The second time out, I was actually teaching a kid to drive a stick. He just
turned 18, has been an Eagle Scout since just under 15, and is going back to
summer camp to be a councilor for the 4 year in a row. He's told this year
he'll be driving the delivery truck, with a stick shift. He said he'd driven a
stick only once before. He did very well. Of course, I started him with the
choke way out, so it was hard to stall. But he picked it up quickly. Someday,
I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife.

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Apr 11 22:00:07 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 21:00:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CBABA157.3951F%mvheim@sonic.net>

Get the top down. The top bounces sound all over -- it's very hard to place
it, and it sounds much more serious than it is.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/11/12 8:22 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> So I've had my car out for 2 weeks now. Driven it twice. With the top up.
> 
> With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
> definitely louder on trailing throttle.
> 
> I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
> Perhaps the exhaust?
> 
> Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.
> 
> The second time out, I was actually teaching a kid to drive a stick. He just
> turned 18, has been an Eagle Scout since just under 15, and is going back to
> summer camp to be a councilor for the 4 year in a row. He's told this year
> he'll be driving the delivery truck, with a stick shift. He said he'd driven a
> stick only once before. He did very well. Of course, I started him with the
> choke way out, so it was hard to stall. But he picked it up quickly. Someday,
> I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife.

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr 11 22:43:33 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 23:43:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F865D75.4040005@justbrits.com>

er Paul, some "free" <G> advise ! !

<<  On 4/11/2012 10:22 PM, Paul Root wrote:
                 I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife. >>

If 17 year old is female it's OK but WITH the VERY STERN  [ THREAT of 
next to death ]
warning;  boyfriend NOT allowed to drive ! ! !  PERIOD.  END.  PERIOD 
! ! ! ! !

If 17 year old is male it's OK to teach but tell him to buy his own ! 
! !  And fix/repair/maintain ! ! !

Wife ???   NO way, now how, ain't gonna happen ! ! !  Buy HER one and 
let her "learn" in her OWN
car ! ! !  Yep, you ARE stuck with the fix/repair/maintain ! ! !    
LMAO ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  Ooops, about the "wife" thing??  BTDT, Got car, FIXED car [$2500 
my cost motor<G><F>],
        repair & maintain <sigh> ! !  Oh yeah, and I pay for tags & 
insurance ?!?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Apr 12 01:53:56 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 08:53:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C79F627F6E054B279CFE471E11C2FFD4@paul>

A rear end noise that changes with throttle is more likely to be the diff, 
especially if it happens going from very slight acceleration to very slight 
trailing throttle.  If it only happens with larger throttle changes then it 
is probably exhaust.  It's easier to hear noises like this with the top up, 
which is why GTs had the quieter Salisbury axle from the start, roadsters 
only later on.  When my diff was whining it was really only noticeable with 
the top up.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's 
> also
> definitely louder on trailing throttle.
>
> I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
> Perhaps the exhaust?

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 12 05:45:49 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 04:45:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Happy Birthday Cecil Kimber!
Message-ID: <1334231149.29543.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://tinyurl.com/7g62e58

(And it's ok to click on the link above!   ;-)
Dan D
'65B, '76B
Central NJ USA

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 12 06:56:58 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 05:56:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <4F865D75.4040005@justbrits.com>
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
	<4F865D75.4040005@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <1334235418.10745.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Fortunately, my wife learned to drive a stick at a young age, and we taught
both the boys after they had gotten the basic of driving down first.
They both
have manual-trans cars now. My daughter is up next, and she can't wait....
Dan D
'65B, '76B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: ""
Just Brits " Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Thursday, April 12, 2012 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] rear end noise
 
er Paul,
some "free" <G> advise ! !

<<  On 4/11/2012 10:22 PM, Paul Root wrote:
     
           I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife. >>

If 17 year old
is female it's OK but WITH the VERY STERN  [ THREAT of 
next to death ]
warning;  boyfriend NOT allowed to drive ! ! !  PERIOD.  END.  PERIOD 
! ! ! !
!

If 17 year old is male it's OK to teach but tell him to buy his own ! 
! ! 
And fix/repair/maintain ! ! !

Wife ???   NO way, now how, ain't gonna happen
! ! !  Buy HER one and 
let her "learn" in her OWN
car ! ! !  Yep, you ARE
stuck with the fix/repair/maintain ! ! !    
LMAO ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY
site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  Ooops, about the "wife" thing??  BTDT, Got
car, FIXED car [$2500 
my cost motor<G><F>],
        repair & maintain <sigh>
! !  Oh yeah, and I pay for tags & 
insurance ?!?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Apr 12 07:30:58 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 08:30:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <1334235418.10745.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
	<4F865D75.4040005@justbrits.com>
	<1334235418.10745.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47223CF7-BC0A-4A2C-AA57-EEB8A8BE0B17@gmail.com>

The 17 year old is a male. He has little interest in cars. The Subaru fits him
well. It's just transportation.

The wife has driven a stick a few times, but just isn't comfortable. The nice
thing of the MG, is that its such an easy clutch to drive.

I replaced the clutch when I bought it 10 years ago. Probably has 25k miles on
it now.  It's in good shape.

Now the 15 year old (at the end of the month), he's another topic. He'll
probably want to start in the MG. Not going to happen.


On Apr 12, 2012, at 7:56 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Fortunately, my wife learned to drive a stick at a young age, and we taught
> both the boys after they had gotten the basic of driving down first.
> They both
> have manual-trans cars now. My daughter is up next, and she can't wait....
> Dan D
> '65B, '76B
> Central NJ USA
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: ""
> Just Brits " Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent:
> Thursday, April 12, 2012 12:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] rear end noise
>
> er Paul,
> some "free" <G> advise ! !
>
> <<  On 4/11/2012 10:22 PM, Paul Root wrote:
>
>           I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife. >>
>
> If 17 year old
> is female it's OK but WITH the VERY STERN  [ THREAT of
> next to death ]
> warning;  boyfriend NOT allowed to drive ! ! !  PERIOD.  END.  PERIOD
> ! ! ! !
> !
>
> If 17 year old is male it's OK to teach but tell him to buy his own !
> ! !
> And fix/repair/maintain ! ! !
>
> Wife ???   NO way, now how, ain't gonna happen
> ! ! !  Buy HER one and
> let her "learn" in her OWN
> car ! ! !  Yep, you ARE
> stuck with the fix/repair/maintain ! ! !
> LMAO ! ! !
>
> Ed
> Please visit MY
> site at:
> www.justbrits.com
>
> PS:  Ooops, about the "wife" thing??  BTDT, Got
> car, FIXED car [$2500
> my cost motor<G><F>],
>        repair & maintain <sigh>
> ! !  Oh yeah, and I pay for tags &
> insurance ?!?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 12 07:40:31 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 06:40:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <47223CF7-BC0A-4A2C-AA57-EEB8A8BE0B17@gmail.com>
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
	<4F865D75.4040005@justbrits.com>
	<1334235418.10745.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<47223CF7-BC0A-4A2C-AA57-EEB8A8BE0B17@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1334238031.65851.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I agree. I've found that getting them to handle the basics (starting stopping,
turning, etc) to the point where they do the basics well,
that's the time to
introduce the added complexity of self-shifting!

Dan D
________________________________
 From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: Dan
DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> 
Cc: "" Just Brits " Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>;
"mgs at autox.team.net" <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 9:30
AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] rear end noise
 
The 17 year old is a male. He has
little interest in cars. The Subaru fits him well. It's just transportation.
The wife has driven a stick a few times, but just isn't comfortable. The nice
thing of the MG, is that its such an easy clutch to drive. 

I replaced the
clutch when I bought it 10 years ago. Probably has 25k miles on it now.  It's
in good shape.

Now the 15 year old (at the end of the month), he's another
topic. He'll probably want to start in the MG. Not going to happen.


On Apr
12, 2012, at 7:56 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Fortunately, my wife learned to
drive a stick at a young age, and we taught
> both the boys after they had
gotten the basic of driving down first.
> They both
> have manual-trans cars
now. My daughter is up next, and she can't wait....
> Dan D
> '65B, '76B
>
Central NJ USA
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: ""
> Just
Brits " Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net 
> Sent:
>
Thursday, April 12, 2012 12:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] rear end noise
> 
> er
Paul,
> some "free" <G> advise ! !
> 
> <<  On 4/11/2012 10:22 PM, Paul Root
wrote:
> 
>           I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife. >>
> 
>
If 17 year old
> is female it's OK but WITH the VERY STERN  [ THREAT of 
>
next to death ]
> warning;  boyfriend NOT allowed to drive ! ! !  PERIOD. 
END.  PERIOD 
> ! ! ! !
> !
> 
> If 17 year old is male it's OK to teach but
tell him to buy his own ! 
> ! ! 
> And fix/repair/maintain ! ! !
> 
> Wife
???   NO way, now how, ain't gonna happen
> ! ! !  Buy HER one and 
> let her
"learn" in her OWN
> car ! ! !  Yep, you ARE
> stuck with the
fix/repair/maintain ! ! !    
> LMAO ! ! !
> 
> Ed
> Please visit MY
> site
at:
> www.justbrits.com
> 
> PS:  Ooops, about the "wife" thing??  BTDT, Got
>
car, FIXED car [$2500 
> my cost motor<G><F>],
>        repair & maintain
<sigh>
> ! !  Oh yeah, and I pay for tags & 
> insurance ?!?
>
_______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
>
Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Apr 12 08:32:27 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 14:32:27 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
Message-ID: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Paul,  Can you describe the noise?   A rattle, growl, grumble, whine, etc?
It's difficult to determine the source of a sound in MGB when top is up, and
not much easier when top is down. You might try removing battery cover, though
the additional tire noise will probably cancel all but most distinct sounds.
A test for the thrust washers in the diff is to lock the wheels with the
brakes and to turn the driveshaft at the rear axle with your hand. More than
1/4" of free rotation is cause to consider replacing the washers, and at
greater than 3/16 one should plan on it soon.   Last time I checked, the two
types of washers were available at Moss, and the pinion pin too, but not the
gears.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: MGs List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:22:48 -0500

So I've had my car out for 2 weeks now. Driven it twice. With the top up.

With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
definitely louder on trailing throttle.

I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
Perhaps the exhaust?

Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.

The second time out, I was actually teaching a kid to drive a stick. He just
turned 18, has been an Eagle Scout since just under 15, and is going back to
summer camp to be a councilor for the 4 year in a row. He's told this year
he'll be driving the delivery truck, with a stick shift. He said he'd driven
a
stick only once before. He did very well. Of course, I started him with the
choke way out, so it was hard to stall. But he picked it up quickly. Someday,
I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Apr 12 08:07:07 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 15:07:07 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com><4F865D75.4040005@justbrits.com>
	<1334235418.10745.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C35656C7EF1B4DC0B91331F8FEB84208@paul>

http://tinyurl.com/3a7unh ? :o)

(also safe to click)

----- Original Message -----
> Fortunately, my wife learned to drive a stick at a young age...

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Apr 12 09:02:08 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 10:02:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <86DD7D08-D123-49C3-B195-59D5D75F059B@gmail.com>

Good tip, thanks.  I'll try to get under the car this weekend.

On Apr 12, 2012, at 9:32 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>   Can you describe the noise?   A rattle, growl, grumble, whine, etc?
>   It's difficult to determine the source of a sound in MGB when top is up,
and not much easier when top is down. You might try removing battery cover,
though the additional tire noise will probably cancel all but most distinct
sounds.
>   A test for the thrust washers in the diff is to lock the wheels with the
brakes and to turn the driveshaft at the rear axle with your hand. More than
1/4" of free rotation is cause to consider replacing the washers, and at
greater than 3/16 one should plan on it soon.
>   Last time I checked, the two types of washers were available at Moss, and
the pinion pin too, but not the gears.
> Bob
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
> To: MGs List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:22:48 -0500
>
> So I've had my car out for 2 weeks now. Driven it twice. With the top up.
>
> With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
> definitely louder on trailing throttle.
>
> I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
> Perhaps the exhaust?
>
> Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.
>
> The second time out, I was actually teaching a kid to drive a stick. He
just
> turned 18, has been an Eagle Scout since just under 15, and is going back
to
> summer camp to be a councilor for the 4 year in a row. He's told this year
> he'll be driving the delivery truck, with a stick shift. He said he'd driven
a
> stick only once before. He did very well. Of course, I started him with the
> choke way out, so it was hard to stall. But he picked it up quickly.
Someday,
> I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Apr 12 09:02:30 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 10:02:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <59F2519C-5F44-438A-B3A7-FF4D1DA1F2E7@gmail.com>

Oh, and I think it's more of a rattle.

On Apr 12, 2012, at 9:32 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>   Can you describe the noise?   A rattle, growl, grumble, whine, etc?
>   It's difficult to determine the source of a sound in MGB when top is up,
and not much easier when top is down. You might try removing battery cover,
though the additional tire noise will probably cancel all but most distinct
sounds.
>   A test for the thrust washers in the diff is to lock the wheels with the
brakes and to turn the driveshaft at the rear axle with your hand. More than
1/4" of free rotation is cause to consider replacing the washers, and at
greater than 3/16 one should plan on it soon.
>   Last time I checked, the two types of washers were available at Moss, and
the pinion pin too, but not the gears.
> Bob
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
> To: MGs List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:22:48 -0500
>
> So I've had my car out for 2 weeks now. Driven it twice. With the top up.
>
> With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
> definitely louder on trailing throttle.
>
> I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
> Perhaps the exhaust?
>
> Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.
>
> The second time out, I was actually teaching a kid to drive a stick. He
just
> turned 18, has been an Eagle Scout since just under 15, and is going back
to
> summer camp to be a councilor for the 4 year in a row. He's told this year
> he'll be driving the delivery truck, with a stick shift. He said he'd driven
a
> stick only once before. He did very well. Of course, I started him with the
> choke way out, so it was hard to stall. But he picked it up quickly.
Someday,
> I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Apr 12 09:12:15 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 16:12:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
References: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <FE30FDA12B80491BAA60370112112CB6@paul>

FWIW on mine at least play only causes a clonk when going from power on to 
power off (hence 'clonk kit'), not a constant noise.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> A test for the thrust washers in the diff is to lock the wheels with the
> brakes and to turn the driveshaft at the rear axle with your hand. More 
> than
> 1/4" of free rotation is cause to consider replacing the washers ... 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Apr 12 09:34:03 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 16:34:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
References: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<59F2519C-5F44-438A-B3A7-FF4D1DA1F2E7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E71957800FCE415A93D1E72D65B54124@paul>

Neither diff nor washers then, something loose (spanners in boot/trunk?) or 
hitting more like.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Oh, and I think it's more of a rattle.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 12 09:43:24 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 08:43:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <C35656C7EF1B4DC0B91331F8FEB84208@paul>
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com><4F865D75.4040005@justbrits.com>
	<1334235418.10745.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C35656C7EF1B4DC0B91331F8FEB84208@paul>
Message-ID: <1334245404.98630.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

LOL, good one!!

Dan D



________________________________
 From: Paul Hunt
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>;
mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs]
rear end noise
 

 
http://tinyurl.com/3a7unh? 
:o)
 
(also safe to click)
 
----- Original Message ----- 
> Fortunately, my wife learned to drive a stick
at a young 
age...

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Apr 12 10:06:37 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 12:06:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <E71957800FCE415A93D1E72D65B54124@paul>
References: <20120412.103227.15494.4@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<59F2519C-5F44-438A-B3A7-FF4D1DA1F2E7@gmail.com>
	<E71957800FCE415A93D1E72D65B54124@paul>
Message-ID: <E1SIMXt-0002Si-Aq@eta.look.ca>

Folks at world,

As I have tube shocks at the rear this probably no help but I will 
submit it just in case.  I had the is knock/clunk/tap from the rear. 
I and my very mechanically minded friend went over the back - took 
out the rear set, battery cover and drove with head in hole  - his 
head !!!   Many times I checked all the nuts all over the place.  We 
could not find it and it went on for years all the time trying to 
find what it was - It was there from when I could remember.  Not a 
serious noise but annoying and intermittent.   After an extensive 
time I decided to bite the bullet and take it to my favourite 
shop.  They fixed it while I waited at a cost of $45.   The Monroe 
shock had, for some unfathomable reason, a sticky up thing at the top 
- almost like a locating spike - it was knocking on the 
chassis.  They ground it off and no more knocking/clunking/tapping


At 11:34 AM 4/12/2012, Paul Hunt wrote:
>Neither diff nor washers then, something loose (spanners in 
>boot/trunk?) or hitting more like.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>Oh, and I think it's more of a rattle.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Apr 12 10:21:10 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 11:21:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
References: <9D28EF6F-6F36-41C5-99C1-34B1A65BAE2A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201204121621.q3CGLGBc022338@nlpi157.prodigy.net>

I have to ask you better define the noise.
A loud clacking noise would be a broken gear tooth (very unlikely).
A continuous whining noise is misaligned gear teeth, usually a result 
of worn carrier bearings.  This noise will change to quieter or 
noisier going on or off throttle.
A cyclical rumbling sound that repeats 2 or 3 times a second 
depending on road speed would be a worn wheel bearing.
If the worn bearing rumble is also accompanied by a slightly variable 
whining sound, it might be a worn carrier bearing, but that sort of 
wear is very unusual.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com



At 10:22 PM 4/11/2012 -0500, Paul Root wrote:
>....
>With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
>definitely louder on trailing throttle.
>
>I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
>Perhaps the exhaust?
>
>Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.
>....

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Apr 12 10:29:17 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 16:29:17 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
Message-ID: <20120412.122917.19851.1@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

  A rattle is good news, at least insofar as significance is concerned.  The
low pitched klonk that Paul described is the sound of worn diff internals. A
rattle is, perhaps, more annoying, but less important.  If someone can suggest
how to remove the rattle from left side seat belt tensioner, I would be most
appreciative.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] rear end noise
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 10:02:30 -0500

Oh, and I think it's more of a rattle.

From bob-gibbons at raytheon.com  Thu Apr 12 12:00:25 2012
From: bob-gibbons at raytheon.com (Robert C Gibbons)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 13:00:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10704.1334247658.3017.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10704.1334247658.3017.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFFA16C88C.1A4DEDF2-ON862579DE.00629A1D-862579DE.0062EA86@mck.us.ray.com>

First think I would check would be the u-joints.

When they gave out on my '64B it was particularly noticeable under
deceleration.

And it was almost impossible to localize the noise.

Bob





---------- Original Message ----------
From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: MGs List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:22:48 -0500

So I've had my car out for 2 weeks now. Driven it twice. With the top up.

With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
definitely louder on trailing throttle.

I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
Perhaps the exhaust?

Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.

The second time out, I was actually teaching a kid to drive a stick. He
just
turned 18, has been an Eagle Scout since just under 15, and is going back
to
summer camp to be a councilor for the 4 year in a row. He's told this year
he'll be driving the delivery truck, with a stick shift. He said he'd
driven
a
stick only once before. He did very well. Of course, I started him with the
choke way out, so it was hard to stall. But he picked it up quickly.
Someday,
I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife.
_______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of graycol.gif]

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 12 15:41:26 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 17:41:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <OFFA16C88C.1A4DEDF2-ON862579DE.00629A1D-862579DE.0062EA86@mck.us.ray.com>
References: <mailman.10704.1334247658.3017.mgs@autox.team.net>,
	<OFFA16C88C.1A4DEDF2-ON862579DE.00629A1D-862579DE.0062EA86@mck.us.ray.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W21B20883B0C29D5D8F8723B73A0@phx.gbl>

My wife is always complaining about the noise coming from my rear end, too.  I
hardly notice it any more.

-Mike Eldred

> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: PSendaul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>> To: MGs List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:22:48 -0500
>
> So I've had my car out for 2 weeks now. Driven it twice. With the top up.
>
> With the top up, the noise from the rear end is more pronounced.  It's also
> definitely louder on trailing throttle.
>
> I think it's coming from the rear left, so I'm guessing it's not the diff.
> Perhaps the exhaust?
>
> Does anyone have ideas? To me, it's not quite a grinding, but I don't know.
>
> The second time out, I was actually teaching a kid to drive a stick. He
> just
> turned 18, has been an Eagle Scout since just under 15, and is going back
> to
> summer camp to be a councilor for the 4 year in a row. He's told this year
> he'll be driving the delivery truck, with a stick shift. He said he'd
> driven
> a
> stick only once before. He did very well. Of course, I started him with the
> choke way out, so it was hard to stall. But he picked it up quickly.
> Someday,
> I've got to teach my 17 year old, and my wife.
> _______________________________________________
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
graycol.gif]
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Apr 13 01:45:56 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 08:45:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Rear end noise
References: <mailman.10704.1334247658.3017.mgs@autox.team.net>,
	<OFFA16C88C.1A4DEDF2-ON862579DE.00629A1D-862579DE.0062EA86@mck.us.ray.com>
	<SNT124-W21B20883B0C29D5D8F8723B73A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5B0C9E9B55EA4952B757F2635FF4C40F@paul>

It starts when you are 50, but after 60 it's no longer a problem.  Why? 
Because you can't hear or smell it anymore ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> My wife is always complaining about the noise coming from my rear end, 
> too.  I
> hardly notice it any more.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Apr 13 01:43:03 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 08:43:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
References: <20120412.122917.19851.1@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <90491C50E6784BAA8BCDB41D63A5B8D1@paul>

Builders foam :o)

Subsequently occurred to me that it (Paul's rattle) could be something as 
simple as a loose baffle in the exhaust.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  If someone can suggest
> how to remove the rattle from left side seat belt tensioner, I would be 
> most
> appreciative.Bob

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Fri Apr 13 06:04:49 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:04:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
Message-ID: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>

Just curious about what other Listers think, so here's a question.

Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a buyer if an ordered 
item is being placed on back order?

TIA,

CR

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 13 06:48:37 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 05:48:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] rear end noise
In-Reply-To: <90491C50E6784BAA8BCDB41D63A5B8D1@paul>
References: <20120412.122917.19851.1@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<90491C50E6784BAA8BCDB41D63A5B8D1@paul>
Message-ID: <1334321317.17059.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I wonder if it could be the lever shock link has detached. I had a pretty
consistent rattle in my '76 B a few years ago, and I could
never replicate it.
I think I finally got under the car and starting grabbing everything in sight
and shaking it, and it turned out the
shock link had sheared off at the end
where it attached to the springs, but was still in position, so everything
looked normal. When 

I started driving, over any bumps, it would start to
clank against the end that secured it to the car. Hard to describe. Thought I
had
pics posted somewhere but can't seem to find them now.

Dan D
'65B, '76B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Paul Hunt
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: mgbob at juno.com; ptrmgb at gmail.com;
mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 3:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs]
rear end noise
 
Builders foam :o)

Subsequently occurred to me that it
(Paul's rattle) could be something as simple as a loose baffle in the exhaust.
PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  If someone can suggest
> how to
remove the rattle from left side seat belt tensioner, I would be most
>
appreciative.Bob
_______________________________________________
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual
donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Apr 13 06:56:40 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:56:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <CAD9ek=5aNrhExpfkdp2QTqBK6hknoeNVJ40B3et=UQ2Qc2H4UQ@mail.gmail.com>

Definately.

sent from my Android phone
On Apr 13, 2012 7:07 AM, "Charley & Peggy Robinson" <ccrobins at ktc.com>
wrote:

> Just curious about what other Listers think, so here's a question.
>
> Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a buyer if an ordered
> item is being placed on back order?
>
> TIA,
>
> CR
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com>

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Apr 13 07:27:49 2012
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 06:27:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <CAD9ek=5aNrhExpfkdp2QTqBK6hknoeNVJ40B3et=UQ2Qc2H4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
	<CAD9ek=5aNrhExpfkdp2QTqBK6hknoeNVJ40B3et=UQ2Qc2H4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F21B56BF-A77B-46C9-98A6-A04CDEFF7A24@gmail.com>

Most of the time yes.
In my mind if the order comes in today and I know that the part is arriving
tomorrow at 10 then I would not notify.
Other than that, yes.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 13, 2012, at 5:56, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> Definately.
>
> sent from my Android phone
> On Apr 13, 2012 7:07 AM, "Charley & Peggy Robinson" <ccrobins at ktc.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Just curious about what other Listers think, so here's a question.
>>
>> Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a buyer if an ordered
>> item is being placed on back order?
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> CR
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com<http://autox.tea
m.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Apr 13 07:50:15 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 08:50:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <F21B56BF-A77B-46C9-98A6-A04CDEFF7A24@gmail.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com><CAD9ek=5aNrhExpfkdp2QTqBK6hknoeNVJ40B3et=UQ2Qc2H4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<F21B56BF-A77B-46C9-98A6-A04CDEFF7A24@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <09899AB90438439F965CD85EBF565496@ranteer.local>

absolutely

-----Original Message----- 
From: Richard Ewald 
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 8:27 AM 
To: Paul Root 
Cc: MG Digest 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back Orders? 

Most of the time yes.
In my mind if the order comes in today and I know that the part is arriving
tomorrow at 10 then I would not notify.
Other than that, yes.
Rick

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 13 08:44:49 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:44:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <1334328289.96679.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yes, especially if they charge your credit card upon ordering.

Dan D
'76B,
'65B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Charley & Peggy
Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: MG Digest <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday,
April 13, 2012 8:04 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
 
Just curious about what
other Listers think, so here's a question.

Do you think it's incumbent on a
seller to notify a buyer if an ordered item is being placed on back order?
TIA,

CR
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 13 09:24:55 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 11:24:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W51975E7BD275FE16EC9AB9B73B0@phx.gbl>

I always do, and if they've already paid, I let them know they can ask for
their money back at any time up until I've actually shipped the item.

Mike EldredWilmington, VT
> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:04:49 -0500
> From: ccrobins at ktc.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
>
> Just curious about what other Listers think, so here's a question.
>
> Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a buyer if an ordered
> item is being placed on back order?
>
> TIA,
>
> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Apr 13 09:11:18 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 16:11:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <889529B3ED2B41139331918806A9E72D@paul>

Without a doubt.  Just today I've had to question a supplier with a physical 
presence just when I can expect my goods, ordered online, as I've heard 
nothing for several days and the online just says 'being processed'.  I get 
a reply back saying it was dispatched yesterday and I will get it today (I 
haven't, but that is down to another agency).  By contrast I don't order 
that much from eBay from little people, but everything I have has not only 
been dispatched the day I ordered it, but I've also had one or more emails 
giving me progress.  I've had repeated broken delivery dates from a very 
large DIY company when they agree they have the item in another store just 
five miles away, but can't be a*sed to send the van there to fetch it to 
complete the order.

And another thing.  Big company web sites where you have to go through 
virtually the whole ordering process before you find out the delivery 
charges are extortionate.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a buyer if an ordered 
> item is being placed on back order?

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Apr 13 10:14:01 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 16:14:01 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
Message-ID: <20120413.121401.17689.7@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

  Once upon a time, when I was in retail trade in USA, there was a law that
required notification of customer if the order could not be shipped within a
specified period, with offer for cancellation and refund.    Retailers such as
LL Bean and Lands End are prompt to notify if they cannot ship immediately.
The law may still be in effect.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: MG Digest <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:04:49 -0500

Just curious about what other Listers think, so here's a question.

Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a buyer if an ordered
item is being placed on back order?

TIA,

CR
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 13 10:53:31 2012
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 11:53:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <20120413.121401.17689.7@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120413.121401.17689.7@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4F885A0B.30505@sbcglobal.net>

I think the law is still in effect but I also think it may only apply to 
credit card transactions.  I don't remember the time requirement.

Charles Hill

On 4/13/2012 11:14 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:
>    Once upon a time, when I was in retail trade in USA, there was a law that
> required notification of customer if the order could not be shipped within a
> specified period, with offer for cancellation and refund.    Retailers such as
> LL Bean and Lands End are prompt to notify if they cannot ship immediately.
> The law may still be in effect.Bob

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Fri Apr 13 12:05:02 2012
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 04:05:02 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <D7D265F3-8DD6-46A3-B87A-65DF0EA150A8@ghs.com.au>

Absolutely!!

Sent from my iPhone

On 13/04/2012, at 10:04 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
wrote:

> Just curious about what other Listers think, so here's a question.
>
> Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a buyer if an ordered item
is being placed on back order?
>
> TIA,
>
> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Fri Apr 13 13:31:13 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 14:31:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Order - A nice story.
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-epnJqe+VMnK9YGdZLz2x14j6=0A7xSOhb6EkoECd+bDw@mail.gmail.com>

I have cruise control on my GT. ;I originally ordered it from J.C Whitney
at $129.95 plus shipping. Shortly after I got a 12V impact wrench in the
mail, and a $16.00 charge for shipping. It was heavy. I called J.C. and was
told that anyone ordering from the catalog that I used was supposed to get
one free!. O.K.

I waited for some time with no word,so I called J.C. and was told the item
was back ordered. I waited some more without a word from J.C., and then
began looking around. I found the same item on Amazon for $89.95 plus
shipping. After a while I called J.C. again, and was told the item was
still on back order. At that point I cancelled the order. I wondered what
would happen to the impact wrench

Answer: they refunded the $16.00 shipping charge and never asked for it
back!

Jack

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Apr 13 19:06:11 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 20:06:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <4F88CD83.6080804@justbrits.com>

Yep, Charlie ! ! !

<<  On 4/13/2012 7:04 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
                 Do you think it's incumbent on a seller to notify a 
buyer
                     if an ordered item is being placed on back order? >>

I always have and always will  -:)  ! !    Er, of course I expect the same
from my suppliers --- doesn't always happen tho -:( -:( -:(   ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  You 'owe' me a couple pics of YOUR car ! ! ! ! ! <G>

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Apr 14 08:16:05 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 09:16:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Order - A nice story.
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-epnJqe+VMnK9YGdZLz2x14j6=0A7xSOhb6EkoECd+bDw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-epnJqe+VMnK9YGdZLz2x14j6=0A7xSOhb6EkoECd+bDw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F8986A5.4040504@ktc.com>

That's a case of the left hand not knowing what the right hand is doing. 
  ;-)

CR

On 4/13/2012 2:31 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
> Answer: they refunded the $16.00 shipping charge and never asked for it
> back!

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Apr 14 09:29:38 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 10:29:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back Orders?
In-Reply-To: <4F88CD83.6080804@justbrits.com>
References: <4F881661.7000208@ktc.com> <4F88CD83.6080804@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4F8997E2.8090502@ktc.com>

Yo Ed,

Is there a place on your web site for owner's photos?

Anyway, here's one from the summer of 2010

CR

On 4/13/2012 8:06 PM, " Just Brits " Shop wrote:
> PS:  You 'owe' me a couple pics of YOUR car ! ! ! ! !<G>
> _______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100_0978.jpg]

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon Apr 16 13:16:44 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:16:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWMpE=P1x73CtVOF03Mqw6awaFqxQ8KsXZMEo6AQ4F+EEQ@mail.gmail.com>

On the left (driver's ) side, the steering column runs through the
bracket where the motor mount is supposed be fastened to the body.
This makes it virtually impossible to get the nut started on the stud
which runs into the bottom of the rubber mount.  I have managed to do
this twice before by using an refrigerator magnet to position the nut,
but this time that trick does not seem to work.  Is there any
alternative to removing the steering rack?

If I have to remove the steering rack, where can I get the special
tool that the manual shows for aligning the upper an lower parts of
the column?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 16 13:33:30 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:33:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
In-Reply-To: <CAC8_WWMpE=P1x73CtVOF03Mqw6awaFqxQ8KsXZMEo6AQ4F+EEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAC8_WWMpE=P1x73CtVOF03Mqw6awaFqxQ8KsXZMEo6AQ4F+EEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1334604810.34917.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Peter, when I removed the rack, I simply undid the 4 bolts that hold it to the
subframe, the 2 that hold each steering link to the top of the kingpin
and the
one that holds it at the firewall bracket. That way, you can slide the
steering column right out without having to mess with it. And on my '76, 

the
column only really fits one way, so I didn't need to worry about ensuring that
it was aligned properly in the upper bracket.

Dan D
'65B, '76B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Peter Schauss <rpschauss at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 3:16 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
 
On the left (driver's )
side, the steering column runs through the
bracket where the motor mount is
supposed be fastened to the body.
This makes it virtually impossible to get
the nut started on the stud
which runs into the bottom of the rubber mount.  I
have managed to do
this twice before by using an refrigerator magnet to
position the nut,
but this time that trick does not seem to work.  Is there
any
alternative to removing the steering rack?

If I have to remove the
steering rack, where can I get the special
tool that the manual shows for
aligning the upper an lower parts of
the column?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980
MGB
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Apr 16 13:58:24 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:58:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
In-Reply-To: <CAC8_WWMpE=P1x73CtVOF03Mqw6awaFqxQ8KsXZMEo6AQ4F+EEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CBB1C7F0.396B6%mvheim@sonic.net>

It can be done without messing with the steering rack. All I can suggest is
to be patient and keep trying, or find a helper with skinnier fingers. It
may help to loosen the other bolts, that hold the motor mount bracket, to
get a different angle.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 4/16/12 12:16 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss at gmail.com wrote:

> On the left (driver's ) side, the steering column runs through the
> bracket where the motor mount is supposed be fastened to the body.
> This makes it virtually impossible to get the nut started on the stud
> which runs into the bottom of the rubber mount.  I have managed to do
> this twice before by using an refrigerator magnet to position the nut,
> but this time that trick does not seem to work.  Is there any
> alternative to removing the steering rack?
> 
> If I have to remove the steering rack, where can I get the special
> tool that the manual shows for aligning the upper an lower parts of
> the column?
> 
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Apr 16 14:31:40 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:31:40 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
Message-ID: <20120416.163140.25414.3@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Peter,  I have not found replacement of the engine mount to be a particularly
rewarding experience. While it can be done w/o removing the rack, I think it's
as quick or quicker to remove the rack.  That gives opportunity to drain its
oil and to refill, and also to check the alignment with steering wheel's
shaft.  That alignment should not change, but I have seen a car where it was
way out, yet the steering wheel turned, albeit stiffly.  The alignment tool is
something that can be made in a few minutes on a lathe. It can be plastic,
need not be metal, as all you are trying to do is to get the points to touch.
An alternative, cheaper and faster than making cones, is to wrap a stiff wire
around each shaft, bending the wire so its pointer turns on the extended
center of the shaft without wobbling.    The three bolts on the firewall are
7/16, and having a 12 inch extension for socket wrench access from cabin side
makes the task easier.  Before you slip the rack's shaft out of the universal
joint, use a prick punch to mark its location accurately. This is a
fine-spline assembly; one spline off will be noticeable when you drive the
car. Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Peter Schauss <rpschauss at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:16:44 -0400

On the left (driver's ) side, the steering column runs through the
bracket where the motor mount is supposed be fastened to the body.
This makes it virtually impossible to get the nut started on the stud
which runs into the bottom of the rubber mount.  I have managed to do
this twice before by using an refrigerator magnet to position the nut,
but this time that trick does not seem to work.  Is there any
alternative to removing the steering rack?

If I have to remove the steering rack, where can I get the special
tool that the manual shows for aligning the upper an lower parts of
the column?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Apr 17 02:03:19 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 09:03:19 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
References: <CAC8_WWMpE=P1x73CtVOF03Mqw6awaFqxQ8KsXZMEo6AQ4F+EEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <59ACDE5C56294501885E840E7C3E9271@paul>

I've done it by sticking the nut and washers to an open-ended spanner, then 
carefully turning the mount into the nut to get it started before attaching 
the mount to the engine front plate, then turning the spanner over and back 
for each half-flat.  However that was on a V8 that uses the same rubber 
mount but a different engine bracket.  Having said that it's really not that 
difficult to remove the rack - one clamp bolt on the UJ and four nuts and 
bolts to the cross-member.  I've had my roadster and V8 ones off any number 
of times for dealing with the drivers side exhaust manifold on the V8 and 
the UJ on the roadster.  If removing the rack watch out for shims on the 
cross-member brackets.  These were originally riveted to the bracket by the 
factory, but can rust through over time so come free when you remove the 
bolts.  If you know the rack and column were correctly aligned to start 
with, and don't alter the column, then the rack will go back in the correct 
place with the shims as they were before.  If the column is moved, then you 
will need to do the alignment check, as that just slides on bolts.

Moss sell the alignment gauge.  They appeared on the US website long before 
the UK, but for some reason the UK price was much cheaper (when I bought 
them) than the exchange rate would imply.  Whilst a bit of plastic or metal 
could be drilled and turned on a lathe to fit the shafts, the distance 
between the hole for the screw that clamps into the recess into each shaft, 
and the point of the cone, is critical.  It must be exactly the same as the 
distance between the centre of the UJ clamping bolts and the centre i.e. 
pivot axis of the spider.   I've used wire wrapped round the shaft myself, 
but it's a real fiddle spinning each shaft to get the point of the wire 
aligned with the central axis of each shaft, as well as the correct distance 
from the end of the shaft, so I eventually bought the gauges.  For the early 
fixed column, and the middle era collapsible column, the distance between 
the recess and the point on the *column* gauge is not critical as the shaft 
is positioned lengthwise in the outer by the UJ and the rack, but the up and 
down and side to side alignment *is* very important.  For the later fully 
collapsible column the in and out adjustment of the column is also critical 
as the position of the inner is fixed in the outer, and this column has 
shims as well as sliding bolts where it attaches to the body member.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss at gmail.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:16 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount


> On the left (driver's ) side, the steering column runs through the
> bracket where the motor mount is supposed be fastened to the body.
> This makes it virtually impossible to get the nut started on the stud
> which runs into the bottom of the rubber mount.  I have managed to do
> this twice before by using an refrigerator magnet to position the nut,
> but this time that trick does not seem to work.  Is there any
> alternative to removing the steering rack?
>
> If I have to remove the steering rack, where can I get the special
> tool that the manual shows for aligning the upper an lower parts of
> the column?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Apr 17 20:10:23 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:10:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1334685602.31037.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1334685602.31037.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4F8E228F.7040404@comcast.net>

I can't really add anything more to the immediate responses, except to 
say that I think this is the best response to a lister's technical 
question I've seen in a long time. I get the digest, so I can't really 
comment in real time. Reading the responses, my first reaction was that 
your question had been pretty well answered without anyone asking what 
year car you were talking about. Apparently everybody looked at your sig 
before responding. And everyone had something to add. Thank you list. 
And thank you Mr. B. for keeping the list going.

Glenn





On 4/17/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAC8_WWMpE=P1x73CtVOF03Mqw6awaFqxQ8KsXZMEo6AQ4F+EEQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> On the left (driver's ) side, the steering column runs through the
> bracket where the motor mount is supposed be fastened to the body.
> This makes it virtually impossible to get the nut started on the stud
> which runs into the bottom of the rubber mount.  I have managed to do
> this twice before by using an refrigerator magnet to position the nut,
> but this time that trick does not seem to work.  Is there any
> alternative to removing the steering rack?
>
> If I have to remove the steering rack, where can I get the special
> tool that the manual shows for aligning the upper an lower parts of
> the column?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Apr 17 23:02:19 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 23:02:19 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Supercharger?
Message-ID: <20120418050219.481F72E033@bradakis.com>

Anyone recognize this supercharger?  Who made it, any info?

http://bradakis.com/Images/super1.jpg
http://bradakis.com/Images/super2.jpg
http://bradakis.com/Images/super3.jpg


It was last used on an MG TF according to the fellow who last
owned it.

Thanks,

mjb.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Apr 18 01:48:16 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 08:48:16 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tightening the nut on the left side motor mount
References: <mailman.11.1334685602.31037.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<4F8E228F.7040404@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5B20FAFE49604A1894F943DFF7631C4C@paul>

The original poster said "the steering column runs through the bracket where 
the motor mount ..." right up front.  All rubber bumper MGBs do that, so no 
more information on year was needed.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... Reading the responses, my first reaction was that your question had 
> been pretty well answered without anyone asking what year car you were 
> talking about. Apparently everybody looked at your sig before responding. 

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Wed Apr 18 06:05:08 2012
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (sdesalvo at frontiernet.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 12:05:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] valve adjustment
Message-ID: <1540232876.1449956.1334750708490.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>

I am having difficulty trying to adjust the valve on #6 rocker on my "78 MGB. I have replaced the rocker itself, but it is still noisy. Something  I have tried is to slide a feeler gauge into the gap while the engine is running. That quiets it to a normal level. Could it be a worn valve, tappet, cam lobe? The big question is whether I should pull the head at this point to investigate further? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Apr 18 06:51:11 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 13:51:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] valve adjustment
References: <1540232876.1449956.1334750708490.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <8F72ABE1571E4D8BA204E85C8CECAA5D@paul>

Ordinarily that sounds like a worn pad on the rocker, so that a 15 thou 
gauge with a sliding fit results in a 20 thou, say, gap.  However I note the 
new rocker.

What system are you using to adjust the valves?  What clearance?  Hot or 
cold?  Most people use the rule of nine where when any valve is fully down 
you subtract that from nine and adjust that one, i.e. when 1 is down you 
adjust 8, 6 down adjust 3, and so on.  However I have found that on some of 
my valves that isn't the point with the greatest gap, it is someway one side 
of it or the other, so on those I set the gap at the point of greatest gap, 
and that does make them a bit quieter.

OTOH maybe the followers or something else is worn and rattling, and putting 
the gauge in with the engine running is simply taking up all the gap so it 
can't rattle.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I am having difficulty trying to adjust the valve on #6 rocker on my "78 
>MGB. I have replaced the rocker itself, but it is still noisy. 

From riverside at southslope.net  Wed Apr 18 08:41:36 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 09:41:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] valve adjustment
In-Reply-To: <1540232876.1449956.1334750708490.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
References: <1540232876.1449956.1334750708490.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <7498763FF8BC4714AF6C9B7288C6C041@rileyPC>

The crane cams method just about guarantees that the lifter for
the valve you are adjusting is resting on the base circle:

set the intake valve when that valve's exhaust partner is JUST starting to 
open
set the exhaust valve when that valve's intake partner is ALMOST closed.

If you ever get to fool around with an OHC motor, you can view the wisdom of
this method

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:05 AM
To: mg list
Subject: [Mgs] valve adjustment

I am having difficulty trying to adjust the valve on #6 rocker on my "78 
MGB. I have replaced the rocker itself, but it is still noisy. Something  I 
have tried is to slide a feeler gauge into the gap while the engine is 
running. That quiets it to a normal level. Could it be a worn valve, tappet, 
cam lobe? The big question is whether I should pull the head at this point 
to investigate further? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4943 - Release Date: 04/17/12 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Apr 18 09:10:50 2012
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:10:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] valve adjustment
References: <1540232876.1449956.1334750708490.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
	<7498763FF8BC4714AF6C9B7288C6C041@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <CDBF53AD4A3B465FB2F1B51C2DB91CD8@paul>

It shouldn't need to be as accurate as that.  The base circle *should* exist 
for a minimum of 180 degrees at the heel, and probably slightly more than 
that.  Which means that anywhere in that 180 degrees *should* give the same, 
maximum clearance.  But as individual cams will show, the greatest clearance 
can exist over a much smaller rotational angle than that, and in any 
position.  It's that you need to find, on your cam, and adjust to.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Images/Tech/Cams/AnnotatedCamLobeLarge.gif

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The crane cams method just about guarantees that the lifter for
> the valve you are adjusting is resting on the base circle:

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 12:23:58 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:23:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] valve adjustment
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWNDWr6oNoabdJFD4SqczCaVEV5iWy3d0GLJ98tM=e--qg@mail.gmail.com>

When I had similar symptoms on my Healey, one very noisy lifter which
quieted down when I slipped a in a feeler gauge, it turned out to be a
worn cam lobe.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 12:05:08 +0000 (UTC)
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net
To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] valve adjustment
Message-ID:
	<1540232876.1449956.1334750708490.JavaMail.root at cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I am having difficulty trying to adjust the valve on #6 rocker on my
"78 MGB. I have replaced the rocker itself, but it is still noisy.
Something  I have tried is to slide a feeler gauge into the gap while
the engine is running. That quiets it to a normal level. Could it be a
worn valve, tappet, cam lobe? The big question is whether I should
pull the head at this point to investigate further? Any advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 13:45:25 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:45:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
Message-ID: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>

Pictures of the actual car. It does have a BGT feel to it. More than the
drawing had.

Seeing the real grill does throw back to the 1960s.

Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG, I'll never buy it. It's heresy that the
Chinese own the name, blah blah blah.

http://www.insideline.com/saic/mg-icon-concept-revealed-2012-beijing-auto-sho
w.html

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 18 14:45:05 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 13:45:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1334781905.74012.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Interesting, lots of MG cues on a grossly-expanded MINI-like body....
Taillights, from the side, headlights sunk into the fender at the bottom,
even
the shape of the body under the hatchback..... Nice to see them pick up a bit
of heritage....

Dan D
'65B, '76B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To:
"mgs at autox.team.net List" <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18,
2012 3:45 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
 
Pictures of the actual car. It does have
a BGT feel to it. More than the
drawing had.

Seeing the real grill does throw
back to the 1960s.

Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG, I'll never buy it. It's
heresy that the
Chinese own the name, blah blah blah.
http://www.insideline.com/saic/mg-icon-concept-revealed-2012-beijing-auto-sho
w.html
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 15:22:41 2012
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:22:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F8F30A1.2090903@gmail.com>

On 4/18/2012 2:45 PM, Paul Root wrote:
> Pictures of the actual car. It does have a BGT feel to it. More than the
> drawing had.
>
> Seeing the real grill does throw back to the 1960s.
>
> Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG, I'll never buy it. It's heresy that the
> Chinese own the name, blah blah blah.
>
> http://www.insideline.com/saic/mg-icon-concept-revealed-2012-beijing-auto-sho
> w.html

Looks like its Momma was scared by a BMW Mini.

-Rock

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Apr 18 16:34:28 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 15:34:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CBB48F84.39815%mvheim@sonic.net>

It looks like a cartoon. Even more so than most contemporary designs
(notably the Camaro, Kia Soul, most mid-size SUVs). I mean, they grafted on
some MG-like details, but the proportions are like a baby toy, not even a
Hot Wheel.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/18/12 12:45 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> Pictures of the actual car. It does have a BGT feel to it. More than the
> drawing had.
> 
> Seeing the real grill does throw back to the 1960s.
> 
> Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG, I'll never buy it. It's heresy that the
> Chinese own the name, blah blah blah.
> 
> http://www.insideline.com/saic/mg-icon-concept-revealed-2012-beijing-auto-sho
> w.html
\

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 18 17:08:23 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:08:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

  From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>

 
> Pictures of the actual car. It
does have a BGT feel to it. More than the
> drawing had.
> 
> Seeing the real
grill does throw back to the 1960s.
> 
> Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG,
I'll never buy it. It's heresy 
> that the
> Chinese own the name, blah blah
blah.


Those protruding vertical lights on either side of the grille just
look strange.  Leaves me thinking "Twice the Edsel - Twice the fun!"

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 18 17:10:06 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:10:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <4F8F30A1.2090903@gmail.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<4F8F30A1.2090903@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1334790606.21125.YahooMailNeo@web112110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com>


> 
> Looks like its Momma was
scared by a BMW Mini.
> 


Funny you should say that, since the Mini started
out as
an MG/Rover project before BMW got involved.

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr 18 17:17:33 2012
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:17:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <791732C1C2074B04A4B36E34EAC7007D@HomePC>

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Breneman
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:08 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Icon




Those protruding vertical lights on either side of the grille just
look strange.  Leaves me thinking "Twice the Edsel - Twice the fun!"
_______________________________________________


Exactly.  That protuberance under each of the headlights is just plain 
gross.  Was it Max that said it looks like a cartoon?  Agreed!

Jack up the MG badge on the rear and push what's left off a cliff and you 
have a good starting point.


Larry Daniels 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 18:04:13 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:04:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <4F8F30A1.2090903@gmail.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<4F8F30A1.2090903@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4358F079-B7D2-46CE-94FD-9F7881FF6ACF@gmail.com>

good one Rocky.

Yeah, I thought too much Mini in it as well. But it does have some BGT in it.
Keep the grill redo the rest of the front end.



On Apr 18, 2012, at 4:22 PM, The Roxter wrote:

> On 4/18/2012 2:45 PM, Paul Root wrote:
>> Pictures of the actual car. It does have a BGT feel to it. More than the
>> drawing had.
>>
>> Seeing the real grill does throw back to the 1960s.
>>
>> Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG, I'll never buy it. It's heresy that the
>> Chinese own the name, blah blah blah.
>>
>>
http://www.insideline.com/saic/mg-icon-concept-revealed-2012-beijing-auto-sho
>> w.html
>
> Looks like its Momma was scared by a BMW Mini.
>
> -Rock
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Wed Apr 18 18:08:54 2012
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 10:08:54 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F06674ED-9584-48DC-B989-87853411FF8A@ghs.com.au>

I really wish you jerks who are all still stuck in the 60's would wake up and
realize the the world has changed.  To make a statement "it's Chinese so I
wouldn't buy one" just smacks of ignorance.  The Chinese own MGs because MG
kept making the MGB well past it's sell buy date and look what happened?  Also
please don't give me that crap about Chinese quality. I'd have Chinese built
car over some wallowing land barge banged together in Detroit by guys who
can't see past their next meth hit any day. Wake up America... The world has
changed and the USA has missed the train.

Let the flames commence....

Murray Arundell
Australia

Sent from my iPhone

On 19/04/2012, at 9:08 AM, David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com> wrote:

>  From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
>
>
>> Pictures of the actual car. It
> does have a BGT feel to it. More than the
>> drawing had.
>>
>> Seeing the real
> grill does throw back to the 1960s.
>>
>> Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG,
> I'll never buy it. It's heresy
>> that the
>> Chinese own the name, blah blah
> blah.
>
>
> Those protruding vertical lights on either side of the grille just
> look strange.  Leaves me thinking "Twice the Edsel - Twice the fun!"
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 18:34:23 2012
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:34:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <F06674ED-9584-48DC-B989-87853411FF8A@ghs.com.au>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<F06674ED-9584-48DC-B989-87853411FF8A@ghs.com.au>
Message-ID: <333C84C1-05E2-4EAB-A37D-BF47B889507C@gmail.com>

Well Murray,

	There's no reason to be rude.

	I put those comments in, as a bit of humor, to try to stop a flame war of
this sort.

	I must say I'm a bit offended by your characterization of the America worker.
And the car for that matter. American cars are improving  considerably. While
I've never bought an "American" car, I do have cars built in America. I find
them better built than the one Japanese car that I have.

	Please read more carefully in the future, take a breath, and think twice
before you press send.

Paul.

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:08 PM, Murray Arundell wrote:

> I really wish you jerks who are all still stuck in the 60's would wake up
and
> realize the the world has changed.  To make a statement "it's Chinese so I
> wouldn't buy one" just smacks of ignorance.  The Chinese own MGs because MG
> kept making the MGB well past it's sell buy date and look what happened?
Also
> please don't give me that crap about Chinese quality. I'd have Chinese
built
> car over some wallowing land barge banged together in Detroit by guys who
> can't see past their next meth hit any day. Wake up America... The world
has
> changed and the USA has missed the train.
>
> Let the flames commence....
>
> Murray Arundell
> Australia
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 19/04/2012, at 9:08 AM, David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
>>
>>
>>> Pictures of the actual car. It
>> does have a BGT feel to it. More than the
>>> drawing had.
>>>
>>> Seeing the real
>> grill does throw back to the 1960s.
>>>
>>> Yes, I know, it's not a proper MG,
>> I'll never buy it. It's heresy
>>> that the
>>> Chinese own the name, blah blah
>> blah.
>>
>>
>> Those protruding vertical lights on either side of the grille just
>> look strange.  Leaves me thinking "Twice the Edsel - Twice the fun!"
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 19:02:55 2012
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:02:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <CBB48F84.39815%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CBB48F84.39815%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4F8F643F.2000603@gmail.com>

On 4/18/2012 5:34 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> It looks like a cartoon. Even more so than most contemporary designs
> (notably the Camaro, Kia Soul, most mid-size SUVs). I mean, they grafted on
> some MG-like details, but the proportions are like a baby toy, not even a
> Hot Wheel.

Yep. I would never buy one, even if I won the lottery.

If I did win the lottery, I would donate a big chunk to the Oklahoma 
Music Hall of Fame and another big chunk to the Ron Paul campaign, and 
then:
buy a Bugatti Type 35, an old Jaguar, an old Austin-Healy and a 
pre-1937 MG of some sort.

They did the Thunderbird well, I thought, as well as the Beetle: 
modern, but with retro styling that referenced the original, sort of a 
SteamPunk feel.

This is just some Anime-Fanboy jerk-off.

Should have done what Mazda did: hire some American MG-fans to design it.

-Rock

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 19:08:43 2012
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:08:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <1334790606.21125.YahooMailNeo@web112110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<4F8F30A1.2090903@gmail.com>
	<1334790606.21125.YahooMailNeo@web112110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4F8F659B.4050802@gmail.com>

On 4/18/2012 6:10 PM, David Breneman wrote:
>   From: The Roxter<rocknatural at gmail.com>
>
>
>> Looks like its Momma was scared by a BMW Mini.
>>
>
> Funny you should say that, since the Mini started out as
> an MG/Rover project before BMW got involved.
>
I participated in the early stages. Gave opinions on projected 
designs. Didn't like any of them.

-Rock

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 19:15:53 2012
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:15:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <F06674ED-9584-48DC-B989-87853411FF8A@ghs.com.au>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<F06674ED-9584-48DC-B989-87853411FF8A@ghs.com.au>
Message-ID: <4F8F6749.3090000@gmail.com>

On 4/18/2012 7:08 PM, Murray Arundell wrote:
> I really wish you jerks who are all still stuck in the 60's would wake up and
> realize the the world has changed.  To make a statement "it's Chinese so I
> wouldn't buy one" just smacks of ignorance.  The Chinese own MGs because MG
> kept making the MGB well past it's sell buy date and look what happened?  Also
> please don't give me that crap about Chinese quality. I'd have Chinese built
> car over some wallowing land barge banged together in Detroit by guys who
> can't see past their next meth hit any day. Wake up America... The world has
> changed and the USA has missed the train.
>
> Let the flames commence....
The American car market died because politicians started thinking they 
could design cars, or at least set the limits for designing cars.

If you want to see what too much government and socialistic leanings 
can accomplish, just look at Detroit.

-Rock

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Apr 18 19:26:29 2012
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:26:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <4F8F6749.3090000@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>

Not to start another flame war, but I have to say I'm curious where this
viewpoint is coming from -- clearly, all manufacturers who sold cars in the
US, not just the Detroit-based ones, were subject to the same government
regulations. So how did this kill the "American car market", which seems to
have survived to the present day? More different companies build cars in the
US today than did in the "unregulated" 1960s.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 4/18/12 6:15 PM, The Roxter at rocknatural at gmail.com wrote:

> The American car market died because politicians started thinking they
> could design cars, or at least set the limits for designing cars.
> 
> If you want to see what too much government and socialistic leanings
> can accomplish, just look at Detroit.
> 
> -Rock

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Apr 18 19:50:05 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:50:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <9ACFBE6816314537820B09FA9A044077@ranteer.local>

I have to agree.  it was arrogance and naiivity that hurt detroit.

one executive was quoted as saying "why would you buy a japanese car when 
for the same money you can get a used chevrolet?"

-----Original Message----- 
From: Max Heim
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 8:26 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Icon

Not to start another flame war, but I have to say I'm curious where this
viewpoint is coming from -- clearly, all manufacturers who sold cars in the
US, not just the Detroit-based ones, were subject to the same government
regulations. So how did this kill the "American car market", which seems to
have survived to the present day? More different companies build cars in the
US today than did in the "unregulated" 1960s.

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Apr 18 19:54:30 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:54:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <4358F079-B7D2-46CE-94FD-9F7881FF6ACF@gmail.com>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com><4F8F30A1.2090903@gmail.com>
	<4358F079-B7D2-46CE-94FD-9F7881FF6ACF@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FC8EE2D161BC44138E537C32F85B7790@ranteer.local>

that's a design exercise, right?  not the real thing?  does look awfully 
mini - ish

-----Original Message----- 
From: Paul Root
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:04 PM
To: The Roxter
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Icon

good one Rocky.

Yeah, I thought too much Mini in it as well. But it does have some BGT in 
it.
Keep the grill redo the rest of the front end.

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 18 20:27:07 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:27:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <F06674ED-9584-48DC-B989-87853411FF8A@ghs.com.au>
References: <24733872-BB83-40BD-8CC6-08CFCD9FB68D@gmail.com>
	<1334790503.29873.YahooMailNeo@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<F06674ED-9584-48DC-B989-87853411FF8A@ghs.com.au>
Message-ID: <1334802427.48166.YahooMailNeo@web112105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

From: Murray Arundell <arundell at ghs.com.au>

> On 19/04/2012, at 9:08 AM,
David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>  Those protruding
vertical lights on either side of the grille just
>>  look strange.  Leaves me
thinking "Twice the Edsel - Twice the 
>> fun!"
>
> I really wish you jerks
who are all still stuck in the 60's would wake up 
> and realize the the world
has changed.  To make a statement "it's 
> Chinese so I wouldn't buy one" just
smacks of ignorance.  \

I assume that since you're quoting and replying to my
post, I am
one of the "jerks" you're talking about.  Since I don't lower
myself to engage in ad hominem attacks, I won't call you names, but
I will
remind you that bad styling is bad styling no matter who does
it or when or
where it's done.  And to infer that, because I criticize
bad styling, I hold
some sort of brief against modern cars or Chinese-
own car companies is, to
say the least, presumptuous.

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 18 21:17:57 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 23:17:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <9ACFBE6816314537820B09FA9A044077@ranteer.local>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<9ACFBE6816314537820B09FA9A044077@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <bay0-p5-eas25C969F2FE6865841DF1C6B73D0@phx.gbl>

Yes. No one who lived through the '70s should be under any illusion that it
was "socialism" that killed American car manufacturing.


Sent from my iPad

On Apr 18, 2012, at 22:01, "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> I have to agree.  it was arrogance and naiivity that hurt detroit.
>
> one executive was quoted as saying "why would you buy a japanese car when
for the same money you can get a used chevrolet?"
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Max Heim
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 8:26 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Icon
>
> Not to start another flame war, but I have to say I'm curious where this
> viewpoint is coming from -- clearly, all manufacturers who sold cars in the
> US, not just the Detroit-based ones, were subject to the same government
> regulations. So how did this kill the "American car market", which seems to
> have survived to the present day? More different companies build cars in
the
> US today than did in the "unregulated" 1960s.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Thu Apr 19 04:58:05 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 06:58:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Steering rack removal (1980 MGB)
Message-ID: <4f8fefbf.c8bde00a.3951.6c71@mx.google.com>

Thanks for all of the advice on tightening the nut on the left side motor
mount.

I removed the bolts which hold the steering arms to the kingpins and the
four bolts which hold the steering rack to the frame and loosened the front
pinch bolt on the u-joint.  Before I quit last night I soaked the splines
with penetrating oil.  Is there any trick to getting the lower steering
column out of the u-joint?  I don't want to use too much force for fear of
distorting the collapsible upper section of the column.

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Thu Apr 19 08:04:31 2012
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 10:04:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Steering rack removal (1980 MGB)
In-Reply-To: <CF72FFCEB3704A1CAAD57D140439A525@paul>
References: <4f8fefbf.c8bde00a.3951.6c71@mx.google.com>
	<CF72FFCEB3704A1CAAD57D140439A525@paul>
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWPJD2V3vBC_Te9MMUd4fhMSG6z7HZtdU+5RVHZaEKZ8wQ@mail.gmail.com>

Once I have the u-joint loose, will I be able to pull the steering
column without
removing the lower radiator hose?  What about the radiator?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 7:41 AM, Paul Hunt <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
wrote:
> You have to fully remove the clamp bolt from the UJ.  It sits in a notch of
> groove in the shafts and is part of the alignment of the two shafts, and is
> why the alignment cones need to be precisely engineered.
>
> If it still won't budge then try wedging a screwdriver or something in the
> slot in the UJ to open it up.  You do need to be careful with the later
full
> energy absorbing column as it is all too easy to shear the nylon inserts if
> the is too much force applied along the length of the column.  It's force
on
> the upper half that is more likely to shear them though, the lower half is
> pretty firmly located in the outer.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> I removed the bolts which hold the steering arms to the kingpins and the
>> four bolts which hold the steering rack to the frame and loosened the
>> front
>> pinch bolt on the u-joint.  Before I quit last night I soaked the splines
>> with penetrating oil.  Is there any trick to getting the lower steering
>> column out of the u-joint?  I don't want to use too much force for fear of
>> distorting the collapsible upper section of the column.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 19 09:18:44 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 08:18:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Steering rack removal (1980 MGB)
In-Reply-To: <CAC8_WWPJD2V3vBC_Te9MMUd4fhMSG6z7HZtdU+5RVHZaEKZ8wQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4f8fefbf.c8bde00a.3951.6c71@mx.google.com>
	<CF72FFCEB3704A1CAAD57D140439A525@paul>
	<CAC8_WWPJD2V3vBC_Te9MMUd4fhMSG6z7HZtdU+5RVHZaEKZ8wQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1334848724.18871.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Peter, on my '76 I was able to slide the column right out. With the '80, and
the forward-radiator position, I am not sure whether it
would be in the way or
not. 


Dan D
'65B, '76B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
From: Peter Schauss <rpschauss at gmail.com>
To: Paul Hunt
<paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>; mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 19,
2012 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Steering rack removal (1980 MGB)
 
Once I
have the u-joint loose, will I be able to pull the steering
column without
removing the lower radiator hose?  What about the radiator?

Thanks,
Peter
Schauss

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 7:41 AM, Paul Hunt
<paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
wrote:
> You have to fully remove the clamp bolt
from the UJ.  It sits in a notch of
> groove in the shafts and is part of the
alignment of the two shafts, and is
> why the alignment cones need to be
precisely engineered.
>
> If it still won't budge then try wedging a
screwdriver or something in the
> slot in the UJ to open it up.  You do need
to be careful with the later
full
> energy absorbing column as it is all too
easy to shear the nylon inserts if
> the is too much force applied along the
length of the column.  It's force
on
> the upper half that is more likely to
shear them though, the lower half is
> pretty firmly located in the outer.
>
>
PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> I removed the bolts which hold
the steering arms to the kingpins and the
>> four bolts which hold the
steering rack to the frame and loosened the
>> front
>> pinch bolt on the
u-joint.  Before I quit last night I soaked the splines
>> with penetrating
oil.  Is there any trick to getting the lower steering
>> column out of the
u-joint?  I don't want to use too much force for fear of
>> distorting the
collapsible upper section of the column.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Apr 19 10:42:17 2012
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:42:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4F904069.8070300@gmail.com>

On 4/18/2012 8:26 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> Not to start another flame war, but I have to say I'm curious where this
> viewpoint is coming from -- clearly, all manufacturers who sold cars in the
> US, not just the Detroit-based ones, were subject to the same government
> regulations. So how did this kill the "American car market", which seems to
> have survived to the present day? More different companies build cars in the
> US today than did in the "unregulated" 1960s.
Before the rabid environmentalists took over, cars were designed to be 
bought by people. American car manufacturers tried to build cars 
Americans wanted. Then the politicians got into the game, with "CAFE" 
standards and crash tests pushing the designs from opposite 
directions. Foreign car-makers were already making smaller cars, so 
they had an advantage under the new laws. The new standards weren't 
the only influence that killed Detroit; the unions helped in its 
demise. Perhaps you have seen the sets of pictures that show Hiroshima 
and Detroit today.

-Rock

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Apr 19 11:46:04 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 13:46:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <4F904069.8070300@gmail.com>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
  <4F904069.8070300@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1SKvQq-00081A-Nf@iota.look.ca>

Having had considerable experience with UK unions I can attest to the 
collapse of the UK car makers was 90% the fault of the unions and 10% 
the fault of management who did not do anything about unions.   Only 
Margaret Thatcher had the guts to stand up and break the unions 
(miners) incredibly stupid position (..."we don't care if we are 
unproductive, the market for our goods has gone, and we are paid more 
than anyone else - we want better pay, more benefits and job 
security....") - and I come from a miner's family.  What is so very 
funny is that when the UK union bosses found that they too were out 
of work because the car industry had collapsed, they came over to 
North America.  Canada had Irish, Welsh and English trade unionists 
and I believe they had them in Detroit too.   Thus we had a Detroit 
with destructive union influences as well as design teams that could 
not design decent cars and did not have the skills to copy the 
surging Japanese (now Korean, Chinese et al).   I remember a saying 
attributed to the Pres of GM.  Who said "What is good for GM is good 
for the USA". Well, GM did crash only to be saved by someone stupidly 
loaning money.  The other Pres saying I remember is "We don't make 
cars, we make profits".  The Japanese concentrated on making cars and 
Detroit concentrated on ?

As for the public buying, one can attribute that to the massive 
expenditure of Detroit advertising,  and municipalities blinkered 
into building transportation for BIG horribly handling gas guzzling 
behemoths.   Just look at the NA sub divisions !!!  Of course the NA 
attitude of  "mine is bigger than yours" or "never mind the quality 
feel the width" helps too.




At 12:42 PM 4/19/2012, The Roxter wrote:
>On 4/18/2012 8:26 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>>Not to start another flame war, but I have to say I'm curious where this
>>viewpoint is coming from -- clearly, all manufacturers who sold cars in th
>>US, not just the Detroit-based ones, were subject to the same government
>>regulations. So how did this kill the "American car market", which seems to
>>have survived to the present day? More different companies build cars in the
>>US today than did in the "unregulated" 1960s.
>Before the rabid environmentalists took over, cars were designed to 
>be bought by people. American car manufacturers tried to build cars 
>Americans wanted. Then the politicians got into the game, with 
>"CAFE" standards and crash tests pushing the designs from opposite 
>directions. Foreign car-makers were already making smaller cars, so 
>they had an advantage under the new laws. The new standards weren't 
>the only influence that killed Detroit; the unions helped in its 
>demise. Perhaps you have seen the sets of pictures that show 
>Hiroshima and Detroit today.
>
>-Rock
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 19 12:59:01 2012
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:59:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Icon
In-Reply-To: <E1SKvQq-00081A-Nf@iota.look.ca>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net> 
	<4F904069.8070300@gmail.com> <E1SKvQq-00081A-Nf@iota.look.ca>
Message-ID: <1334861941.53003.YahooMailNeo@web112108.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 From: Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca>


> Having had considerable experience
with UK unions I can attest to the collapse 
> of the UK car makers was 90%
the fault of the unions and 10% the fault of 
> management who did not do
anything about unions. 

I can't help but think of Basil's hilarious rant on
Fawlty Towers:

Another car strike.  Marvelous, isn't it?  The taxpayers pay
them
millions each year so they can go on strike.  It's called socialism.
If
they don't like *making cars* why don't they get themselves 
another bloody
job, like designing cathedrals or composing violin
concertos?  That's it! The
British Leyland Concerto,
in four movements,
all of them slow,
with a
four-hour
tea break in between!  I'll tell
you why, it's because they're not
interested in anything,
except
lounging about on conveyor belts
stuffing
themselves with my money!

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Thu Apr 19 14:55:18 2012
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 13:55:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Was MG Icon Now Detroit Rant
In-Reply-To: <4F904069.8070300@gmail.com>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
  <4F904069.8070300@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <168221FB-1E32-4CF6-9367-9CDAFAE1D026@sonic.net>

On Apr 19, 2012,
> Before the rabid environmentalists took overUnionsJapan bla-bla-bla

This is such a load of horse shit. Read "On A Clear Day You Can See General
Motors" written under cover while DeLorean still worked there. Makes you
wonder how we survived the '70s. Did we survive the '70s? (Rant over. Sorry.
Back to MGs)
--
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Apr 19 15:39:37 2012
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 16:39:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Was MG Icon Now Detroit Rant
In-Reply-To: <168221FB-1E32-4CF6-9367-9CDAFAE1D026@sonic.net>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net> <4F904069.8070300@gmail.com>
	<168221FB-1E32-4CF6-9367-9CDAFAE1D026@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4F908619.9020009@gmail.com>

On 4/19/2012 3:55 PM, Rod Williams wrote: This is such a load of horse 
shit. Read "On A Clear Day You Can See General Motors" written under 
cover while DeLorean still worked there. Makes you wonder how we 
survived the '70s. Did we survive the '70s? (Rant over. Sorry. Back to 
MGs)

Well, Mister Williams, Please go fuck yourself. I can do without your 
insults. I'm out of here.

-Rock

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 19 16:03:24 2012
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 17:03:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Was MG Icon Now Detroit Rant
In-Reply-To: <4F908619.9020009@gmail.com>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<4F904069.8070300@gmail.com><168221FB-1E32-4CF6-9367-9CDAFAE1D026@sonic.net>
	<4F908619.9020009@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <67780C8A5E66471A887657A28CB25589@HomePC>

Rocky, you seem upset.  That may or may not be justified, but, regardless, 
was unnecessary.

Ok, folks, we now see the problems with introducing politics into our car 
forum.  Is everybody happy?

We also had somebody saying that GM was "saved by someone stupidly loaning 
money" even though a company was saved and returned to profitability while 
saving who knows how many jobs in how many countries.  I wonder how many 
people had a problem with that.

Now, can we return to MG related stuff before we piss off even more people?

Larry

P. S.  Rocky, cool off and stick around.  Nobody wants you "out of here".





-----Original Message----- 
From: The Roxter
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 4:39 PM
To: Rod Williams
Cc: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Was MG Icon Now Detroit Rant

On 4/19/2012 3:55 PM, Rod Williams wrote: This is such a load of horse
shit. Read "On A Clear Day You Can See General Motors" written under
cover while DeLorean still worked there. Makes you wonder how we
survived the '70s. Did we survive the '70s? (Rant over. Sorry. Back to
MGs)

Well, Mister Williams, Please go fuck yourself. I can do without your
insults. I'm out of here.

-Rock
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net 

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Fri Apr 20 14:46:32 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 15:46:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Starter, Generator Repairs
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-d_2+F+2aTeJg8Ea62E2YET37Kk0ZFJx7H1M=4x5bO=iQ@mail.gmail.com>

Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto
electric shop.

I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter
for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In
our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores,
but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To
them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83
dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color.

When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I
call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut
13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit
rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00
price is no longer valid.

I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them.

>From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who
want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners
who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts.

Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. <http://cyrusnet.com/mg/>

Check around, you may have someone similar in your area.

Jack

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Fri Apr 20 15:03:29 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 16:03:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] My Two Cents
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-dK3MgLCr4kT98rR8tR_KPYu-NTYEBLqe4FQRo_mvsCSQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have read two books which address the decline and fall of the British Car
industry. The easiest to get was recently published and I is called *Earning
the American Dream*.: A Memoir of the Failure of B.M.C.by Gordon Whitby Whitby
was west coast service manger for BMC and in on most major events, such as
the Bonneville trials of both MG and Healey. He puts the blame on the
arrogance of management. . A review is to be found at
http://classicmgmagazine.com/BMC.pdf

The second is a study which I think is called *The Decline of the British
Car Industry using Triumph, MG, and Austin.* It was published by the
University of Illinois Press, and is no longer available. I was luck to get
an interlibrary loan.The tittle is probably not accurate, but the idea is
there. He says that the factories ran smoothly when the shop stewards ran
the show, but when management decided they knew better, than things
deteriorated rapidly.

Neither blame the unions for the problem. That isn't to say that when
management poisoned the well, the unions didn't react.

Jack

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Apr 21 10:01:51 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 11:01:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Was MG Icon Now Detroit Rant
In-Reply-To: <67780C8A5E66471A887657A28CB25589@HomePC>
References: <CBB4B7D5.3983C%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<4F904069.8070300@gmail.com><168221FB-1E32-4CF6-9367-9CDAFAE1D026@sonic.net>
	<4F908619.9020009@gmail.com> <67780C8A5E66471A887657A28CB25589@HomePC>
Message-ID: <4F92D9EF.2080507@ktc.com>

The only problem I have with loaning GM money is that they don't seem to 
be paying it back now that they're "returned to profitability."

CR

On 4/19/2012 5:03 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:
> We also had somebody saying that GM was "saved by someone stupidly loaning
> money" even though a company was saved and returned to profitability while
> saving who knows how many jobs in how many countries.  I wonder how many
> people had a problem with that.
>
> Larry

From degraff at erols.com  Sat Apr 21 12:04:22 2012
From: degraff at erols.com (Elliott and Martha DeGraff)
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 14:04:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <z2o48720d21004101656idae96b90w238223ffc71708@mail.gmail.com>
References: <z2o48720d21004101656idae96b90w238223ffc71708@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F92F6A6.2030104@erols.com>

I know this has been discussed in the past, but does anyone have any 
(positive/negative) recent experience with replacement fuel pumps for a 
'71 MGB?  My rebuilt engine has just started breakin on a test stand, 
and I need a reliable fuel pump for installation in the car.

Elliott DeGraff
71Bs - one driver and one in restoration
72B - next project

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Apr 21 18:49:13 2012
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 19:49:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 59, Issue 20
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1335031202.18422.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1335031202.18422.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4F935589.40904@comcast.net>

The government is supposed to be a referee, not a player. How well do 
you think it would have gone over for the NFL  to step in and decide 
that the Cleveland Browns should have won the last Super Bowl and they 
just 'get' the trophy even though they weren't in the game? Losing is 
supposed to be a part of life. Iacocca paid HIS note back before it was 
due but shouldn't have gotten it either.

That said, whatever I might think of the Chicoms making MG's now, I note 
with a sad tinge of satisfaction that they aren't making Triumphs.

Glenn

On 4/21/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Was MG Icon Now Detroit Rant
> Message-ID:<4F92D9EF.2080507 at ktc.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> The only problem I have with loaning GM money is that they don't seem to
> be paying it back now that they're "returned to profitability."
>
> CR
>
> On 4/19/2012 5:03 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:
>> >  We also had somebody saying that GM was "saved by someone stupidly loaning
>> >  money" even though a company was saved and returned to profitability while
>> >  saving who knows how many jobs in how many countries.  I wonder how many
>> >  people had a problem with that.

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Apr 22 10:27:53 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:27:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <4F92F6A6.2030104@erols.com>
References: <z2o48720d21004101656idae96b90w238223ffc71708@mail.gmail.com>
	<4F92F6A6.2030104@erols.com>
Message-ID: <E1SLzdk-0000BV-NH@gamma.look.ca>

I tried a couple but cannot remember which except one was a Facet.  I 
ended up with a good old (new actually) SU.  They give that 
comforting tick and have been around before the ark.  I have had them 
in my cars since 1953 and never had one bother.

At 02:04 PM 4/21/2012, Elliott and Martha DeGraff wrote:
>I know this has been discussed in the past, but does anyone have any 
>(positive/negative) recent experience with replacement fuel pumps 
>for a '71 MGB?  My rebuilt engine has just started breakin on a test 
>stand, and I need a reliable fuel pump for installation in the car.
>
>Elliott DeGraff
>71Bs - one driver and one in restoration
>72B - next project
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Apr 22 10:32:43 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:32:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 59, Issue 20
In-Reply-To: <4F935589.40904@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.13.1335031202.18422.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<4F935589.40904@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E1SM0NL-0006Qx-7A@beta.look.ca>

ummmm! Hello, they will never make Triumphs just as they will never 
make MGs.  Just Chinese copies :-).     hey, my emicon thing is not working !




At 08:49 PM 4/21/2012, Glenn Schnittke wrote:
>The government is supposed to be a referee, not a player. How well 
>do you think it would have gone over for the NFL  to step in and 
>decide that the Cleveland Browns should have won the last Super Bowl 
>and they just 'get' the trophy even though they weren't in the game? 
>Losing is supposed to be a part of life. Iacocca paid HIS note back 
>before it was due but shouldn't have gotten it either.
>
>That said, whatever I might think of the Chicoms making MG's now, I 
>note with a sad tinge of satisfaction that they aren't making Triumphs.
>
>Glenn
>
>On 4/21/2012 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Was MG Icon Now Detroit Rant
>>Message-ID:<4F92D9EF.2080507 at ktc.com>
>>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>>The only problem I have with loaning GM money is that they don't seem to
>>be paying it back now that they're "returned to profitability."
>>
>>CR
>>
>>On 4/19/2012 5:03 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:
>>> >  We also had somebody saying that GM was "saved by someone 
>>> stupidly loaning
>>> >  money" even though a company was saved and returned to 
>>> profitability while
>>> >  saving who knows how many jobs in how many countries.  I wonder how many
>>> >  people had a problem with that.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 22 16:44:53 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 16:44:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Clean one owner
Message-ID: <4F9489E5.4030101@bradakis.com>

Honest, really.

Some fellow purchased a new 1980 MGB limited edition.  He drove it from
Salt Lake up to his place in Heber, about 40 miles away.  He died a week or
so later.  Wow.

His son took over the place, the MG sat in a heated outbuilding under wraps
for these many years.  The daughter now wants to drive it.  The first 
time it
came into Mike's shop it had just over 100 miles on it.  Friday when we put
in a new fuel sending unit it was way up to 500.  The parts aren't 
wearing out,
they are dying of boredom!  It even has the original tires.  Clean, 
unmolested,
wow.

She is thinking of driving it to New York this summer.  And yes, she 
will put
new tires on it before doing so.

Personally if it were mine *I* wouldn't put thousands of miles on it for 
a road
trip.

mjb.


PS:  A shot of my "office" these 
days:http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Sun Apr 22 19:40:00 2012
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 20:40:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pumps
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-c6A2+zNqSGpwVM-Y4h55xZZ+S5SG6a=VLGeWO-_OVhtg@mail.gmail.com>

I prefer the pump that looks like a cube. It comes with all sorts of brand
names on it, even no name. Facet was one of the names.

Don't get them from Moss, but try J.C. Whitney where I got mine. Every once
in a while Moss comes up with an outrageous price for something that can be
gotten for a fraction of the price  locally. NAPA no loner carries them,
but I"m sure the ones they do carry are just as good.

Not knowing how dependable the fuel pump that came with my cars I added a
second square pump to each car. They are controlled by a sing pole double
throw switch with a center off. That way you can chose either pump or
neither to let the carbs run dry when storing the car. Radio Shack has a
nice one with a red bat handle to differentiate from the fog and driving
light switch.

Coming home from a MG2008 my car died. After a brief check I determined my
old SU had died, so a simple switch got me started again. When I got home I
replaced the old SU with another cube pump..

It is a belt and suspenders approach, but it came in handy.

Jack

From don at napanet.net  Sun Apr 22 19:54:32 2012
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 18:54:32 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-c6A2+zNqSGpwVM-Y4h55xZZ+S5SG6a=VLGeWO-_OVhtg@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-c6A2+zNqSGpwVM-Y4h55xZZ+S5SG6a=VLGeWO-_OVhtg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.184.1335146055.7103.mgs@autox.team.net>

Two of the three MGs I own have those little square pumps.  They are 
really noisy and run all the time.  Maybe that is good, but I am a 
purist and like the clicking of an SU which lets me know if it's 
flooded or not pumping by too much of the soft ticking noise or lack of it.
I converted the aftermarket fuel pump on my MGA to an SU.  I hope to 
convert the TF to an SU pump.  My MGB's Facet pump is really noisy, 
and never stops.  If it was like an SU that stopped pumping when it 
had pressure it would not be so irritating.

Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1967 MGB
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars




At 06:40 PM 4/22/2012, Jack Feldman wrote:
>I prefer the pump that looks like a cube. It comes with all sorts of brand
>names on it, even no name. Facet was one of the names.
>
>Don't get them from Moss, but try J.C. Whitney where I got mine. Every once
>in a while Moss comes up with an outrageous price for something that can be
>gotten for a fraction of the price  locally. NAPA no loner carries them,
>but I"m sure the ones they do carry are just as good.
>
>Not knowing how dependable the fuel pump that came with my cars I added a
>second square pump to each car. They are controlled by a sing pole double
>throw switch with a center off. That way you can chose either pump or
>neither to let the carbs run dry when storing the car. Radio Shack has a
>nice one with a red bat handle to differentiate from the fog and driving
>light switch.
>
>Coming home from a MG2008 my car died. After a brief check I determined my
>old SU had died, so a simple switch got me started again. When I got home I
>replaced the old SU with another cube pump..
>
>It is a belt and suspenders approach, but it came in handy.
>
>Jack

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 23 06:00:49 2012
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 05:00:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Clean one owner
In-Reply-To: <4F9489E5.4030101@bradakis.com>
References: <4F9489E5.4030101@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1335182449.79393.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Is that something like a '49 Mercury lead sled on the lift??

Dan D
'65B, '76B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Mark J Bradakis
<mark at bradakis.com>
To: Mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 6:44
PM
Subject: [Mgs] Clean one owner
 
Honest, really.

Some fellow purchased a
new 1980 MGB limited edition.  He drove it from
Salt Lake up to his place in
Heber, about 40 miles away.  He died a week or
so later.  Wow.

His son took
over the place, the MG sat in a heated outbuilding under wraps
for these many
years.  The daughter now wants to drive it.  The first time it
came into
Mike's shop it had just over 100 miles on it.  Friday when we put
in a new
fuel sending unit it was way up to 500.  The parts aren't wearing out,
they
are dying of boredom!  It even has the original tires.  Clean, unmolested,
wow.

She is thinking of driving it to New York this summer.  And yes, she
will put
new tires on it before doing so.

Personally if it were mine *I*
wouldn't put thousands of miles on it for a road
trip.

mjb.


PS:  A shot of
my "office" these days:http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Apr 23 07:43:18 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 07:43:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Clean one owner
In-Reply-To: <1335182449.79393.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <4F9489E5.4030101@bradakis.com>
	<1335182449.79393.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4F955C76.5060800@bradakis.com>

Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Is that something like a '49 Mercury lead sled on the lift??
>
>

Close.  A 1950 Ford with a 350 Chevy and a Camaro subframe up front.

mjb.

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 23 08:06:08 2012
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:06:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <mailman.184.1335146055.7103.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAGhWe-c6A2+zNqSGpwVM-Y4h55xZZ+S5SG6a=VLGeWO-_OVhtg@mail.gmail.com>,
	<mailman.184.1335146055.7103.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W241CC1419531E28469D9C1B7210@phx.gbl>

Double ditto.  One of the first "extras" I'll buy for my Midget after it's
returned to regular duty is an SU fuel pump to replace the cube that it came
with, and a set of SU carbs to replace the Weber that someone stuck in place
of the perfectly good SUs that it came with.
For me, the biggest reason is that they're long lasting, reliable, and
repairable with hand tools and a modicum of mechanical ability.  The SU fuel
pump on my TF has been rebuilt once in the 45 years we've owned it, and the
same with the SU carbs, mainly to replace a couple of worn parts.
I don't know if it makes me a purist, but I know I want my MGs to look, sound,
smell, and run like they're supposed to.  On the other hand, some upgrades I
wouldn't hesitate to undertake.  If I had the opportunity to upgrade my TF
brakes to MGA discs or install an MGA rear, I'd do it for the improved
driveability and safety.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT1954 MG TF1973 Midget
> Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 18:54:32 -0700
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> From: don at napanet.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pumps
>
> Two of the three MGs I own have those little square pumps.  They are
> really noisy and run all the time.  Maybe that is good, but I am a
> purist and like the clicking of an SU which lets me know if it's
> flooded or not pumping by too much of the soft ticking noise or lack of it.
> I converted the aftermarket fuel pump on my MGA to an SU.  I hope to
> convert the TF to an SU pump.  My MGB's Facet pump is really noisy,
> and never stops.  If it was like an SU that stopped pumping when it
> had pressure it would not be so irritating.
>
> Don Scott
> Calistoga CA USA
> 1955 MGTF
> 1962 MGA Mk 2
> 1967 MGB
> 1963-7 MGB (seeking)
> Misc. Japanese cars
>
>
>
>
> At 06:40 PM 4/22/2012, Jack Feldman wrote:
> >I prefer the pump that looks like a cube. It comes with all sorts of brand
> >names on it, even no name. Facet was one of the names.
> >
> >Don't get them from Moss, but try J.C. Whitney where I got mine. Every
once
> >in a while Moss comes up with an outrageous price for something that can
be
> >gotten for a fraction of the price  locally. NAPA no loner carries them,
> >but I"m sure the ones they do carry are just as good.
> >
> >Not knowing how dependable the fuel pump that came with my cars I added a
> >second square pump to each car. They are controlled by a sing pole double
> >throw switch with a center off. That way you can chose either pump or
> >neither to let the carbs run dry when storing the car. Radio Shack has a
> >nice one with a red bat handle to differentiate from the fog and driving
> >light switch.
> >
> >Coming home from a MG2008 my car died. After a brief check I determined my
> >old SU had died, so a simple switch got me started again. When I got home
I
> >replaced the old SU with another cube pump..
> >
> >It is a belt and suspenders approach, but it came in handy.
> >
> >Jack
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From guinness at stclegal.com  Mon Apr 23 09:27:05 2012
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:27:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removing MGA front hub with steel wheels and disc brakes
Message-ID: <4F9574C9.1020709@stclegal.com>

What is the best way (with limited tools) to remove the front hubs on an 
MGA with steel wheels and disc brakes?  Does anyone have a link to a 
good video on reassembling the same front hubs?  Thanks
-- 
Robert Guinness

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Apr 23 10:34:05 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 12:34:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <mailman.184.1335146055.7103.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAGhWe-c6A2+zNqSGpwVM-Y4h55xZZ+S5SG6a=VLGeWO-_OVhtg@mail.gmail.com>
	<mailman.184.1335146055.7103.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E1SMMXB-00075Q-FD@epsilon.look.ca>

A most interesting subject but may be perception is a great part of 
it.  My perception is that fuel pumps are no more failure prone than 
belts, capacitors or rotor arms, distributor, water pumps, carbs, 
fuel lines, etc etc etc.  Each one capable of bringing the car to a 
halt.  So why not have standby units for all those units?   I have 
been messing with Brit cars, interspersed with German and Italian 
ones, since 1951 when my Dad bought me my first car - an MG 
TD.  Never have I had a fuel pump fail but I have had those sickening 
"blah-blick-click-crunch-grrr-clunk noises which signified the end my 
particular road trip.




At 09:54 PM 4/22/2012, Don wrote:
>Two of the three MGs I own have those little square pumps.  They are
>really noisy and run all the time.  Maybe that is good, but I am a
>purist and like the clicking of an SU which lets me know if it's
>flooded or not pumping by too much of the soft ticking noise or lack of it.
>I converted the aftermarket fuel pump on my MGA to an SU.  I hope to
>convert the TF to an SU pump.  My MGB's Facet pump is really noisy,
>and never stops.  If it was like an SU that stopped pumping when it
>had pressure it would not be so irritating.
>
>Don Scott
>Calistoga CA USA
>1955 MGTF
>1962 MGA Mk 2
>1967 MGB
>1963-7 MGB (seeking)
>Misc. Japanese cars
>
>
>
>
>At 06:40 PM 4/22/2012, Jack Feldman wrote:
> >I prefer the pump that looks like a cube. It comes with all sorts of brand
> >names on it, even no name. Facet was one of the names.
> >
> >Don't get them from Moss, but try J.C. Whitney where I got mine. Every once
> >in a while Moss comes up with an outrageous price for something that can be
> >gotten for a fraction of the price  locally. NAPA no loner carries them,
> >but I"m sure the ones they do carry are just as good.
> >
> >Not knowing how dependable the fuel pump that came with my cars I added a
> >second square pump to each car. They are controlled by a sing pole double
> >throw switch with a center off. That way you can chose either pump or
> >neither to let the carbs run dry when storing the car. Radio Shack has a
> >nice one with a red bat handle to differentiate from the fog and driving
> >light switch.
> >
> >Coming home from a MG2008 my car died. After a brief check I determined my
> >old SU had died, so a simple switch got me started again. When I got home I
> >replaced the old SU with another cube pump..
> >
> >It is a belt and suspenders approach, but it came in handy.
> >
> >Jack
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Apr 23 12:29:24 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:29:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removing MGA front hub with steel wheels and disc brakes
In-Reply-To: <4F9574C9.1020709@stclegal.com>
References: <4F9574C9.1020709@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <201204231829.q3NITPlK020030@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

Remove grease cap, split pin, spindle nut, and pull the hub off the 
spindle.  The bearings should be press fit in the hub and slip fit on 
the spindle, but sometimes they may be reluctant to come off  the 
spindle.  I like to use a slide hammer to yank on stuborn hubs, like 
this: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts117.htm

To remove the bearings requires a bit of finness with a press or 
hammer and punch.  Reassembling front hubs on the MGA (not Twin Cam 
or "Deluxe") is simple, assuming you retain the original inner race 
spacer, just install the parts and crank up the torque on the spindle 
nut (no shimms or special clearance requirements).


At 10:27 AM 4/23/2012 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>What is the best way (with limited tools) to remove the front hubs 
>on an MGA with steel wheels and disc brakes?  Does anyone have a 
>link to a good video on reassembling the same front hubs?  ....

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Apr 24 08:15:34 2012
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 16:15:34 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Off topic - TWO CLASSICS, ONE CAR.
Message-ID: <7A8431B381064744ACA15BE10B079F85@uw471de61b465c>

Dear list - I could not resist to share this.
Amazing!

Cheers,
Hans - 71 BGT in perfect condition again and greatly valued for insurance
yesterday
                101 Year-Old Woman Drives An 81 Year-Old Car:

                This video clip is really good. Notice at the very end when
she steps on
                a little red towel to get into the car so she won't dirty the
running
                board, then picks it up and puts it in the car so she can use
it when
                she gets out!

                An amazing lady, 101 years old driving an 81-year-old
                car and changes the oil and spark plugs herself!

                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHwwwJ83oWo

From guinness at stclegal.com  Tue Apr 24 08:44:29 2012
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 09:44:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Slave Cylinders
Message-ID: <4F96BC4D.4070909@stclegal.com>

Anyone have an experience using the replacement slave cylinder for MGA' 
and MGB's from Apa Industries AKA Uro Parts?
-- 
Robert Guinness.

From thgun at comporium.net  Wed Apr 25 12:48:17 2012
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 14:48:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] For sale MGB
Message-ID: <EA109311-7AB1-44A2-A3DF-14345CC786D1@comporium.net>

1979 stripped down to restore now for sale. Located in Rock Hill, SC. I do not
have any pics right now. Let me know if interested.
Sent from my iPhone 4
Text me at :
Thgun at textnow.me

From runner01 at wowway.com  Wed Apr 25 19:51:56 2012
From: runner01 at wowway.com (Ray Graham)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:51:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
Message-ID: <001b01cd234f$29bea180$7d3be480$@wowway.com>

Folks:

I decided to change the gearbox oil in my 1966 MGB.  I have drained the main
gear box, but when I attempt to remove the OD plug which is marked "Drain" I
can't  find the correct wrench to fit.what gives?  What size is this?

 

I plan to refill with 20W50 oil.same that I run in the engine.right?
Manuals say about 2-2.5 qts. for gearbox and OD?

 

Thanks,

Ray Graham

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Apr 25 21:14:56 2012
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:14:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] seeking MGA differential
Message-ID: <00CA80D8DF0548E29ECA6B35F18E45B8@EricJRussellPC>

During the on-going restoration of my MGA I have discovered a broken pinion
gear in the rear axle.

Anyone got a useable used MGA (or early MGB 'banjo' type) differential to
sell? I am seeking a 4.3:1 unit. This will be used in a vintage race car - a
3.9:1 ration (as is most common in the MGB) will likely be too high a gear
ratio.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Apr 26 14:04:25 2012
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:04:25 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
Message-ID: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

  It probably started out as a British size, but one can only guess what is in
there now. Let's hope that a DPO did not force in a plug with non-original
threads.  You can grind/file a wrench to fit, or use an adjustable spanner.
As you are working upside down, are you certain that you are turning in the
correct direction?    John Esposito, Quantum Mechanics, says that use of the
oil in the engine is OK, but prefers the use of straight 30w oil.  See his
discussion on his site about it.  Good practice is to pour in a bit less than
the specified amount, then test & top off as needed. Draining off excess is
not a pleasant task. Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Ray Graham" <runner01 at wowway.com>
To: <Mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:51:56 -0500

Folks:

I decided to change the gearbox oil in my 1966 MGB.  I have drained the main
gear box, but when I attempt to remove the OD plug which is marked "Drain" I
can't  find the correct wrench to fit.what gives?  What size is this?



I plan to refill with 20W50 oil.same that I run in the engine.right?
Manuals say about 2-2.5 qts. for gearbox and OD?



Thanks,

Ray Graham
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Fri Apr 27 04:03:43 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 05:03:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
In-Reply-To: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4F9A6EFF.6080002@ktc.com>

One of the phenomena about our LBCs is the that everybody has his/her 
own idea about the fluids to use in the things.  Seem like the factory 
manual has to be superseded by "facts."  So, the factory manual says to 
use engine oil in the transmission & overdrive?  Nuts!  Folklore sez 
that ain't right!  Let's put (fill in the blanks) in it!

Sheesh, I can remember when there was a long thread on this list about 
whether to use detergent oil in the gearbox or not.  Someone came up 
with the bright idea that the detergents would harm the synchros.

Me, I figure that the engineers who designed the gearbox might know what 
lube to use in it and they said so in the manual.  My gearbox/overdrive 
has Castrol 20W50 in it.  Been running that way for many years.

OOPS!  I'm now using Valvoline Racing oil in the engine for the ZDDP 
content.  Yikes! Maybe I ought to replace the oil in the tranny!(?)

And so it goes..........

CR

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Fri Apr 27 04:05:14 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 05:05:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
In-Reply-To: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4F9A6F5A.8070708@ktc.com>

Leave that plug in the OD alone.  Refill the gearbox and don't worry.  
The oil will get in the OD anyway.

CR

From lister at bonackers.com  Fri Apr 27 09:36:57 2012
From: lister at bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:36:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seeking MGA differential
Message-ID: <022201cd248b$94c95910$be5c0b30$@bonackers.com>

There's a '55 MGA sitting off the highway in South Central Missouri - if you
buy it you can have all of the salvage parts.

Scott Bonacker
Rogersville, MO

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Eric J Russell
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 10:15 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] seeking MGA differential

During the on-going restoration of my MGA I have discovered a broken pinion
gear in the rear axle.

Anyone got a useable used MGA (or early MGB 'banjo' type) differential to
sell? I am seeking a 4.3:1 unit. This will be used in a vintage race car - a
3.9:1 ration (as is most common in the MGB) will likely be too high a gear
ratio.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lister at bonackers.com

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Apr 27 09:12:35 2012
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 11:12:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
In-Reply-To: <4F9A6EFF.6080002@ktc.com>
References: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<4F9A6EFF.6080002@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <E1SNnIa-0006Ru-Vj@beta.look.ca>

I am an engineer from good old Blighty and I know that engineers can 
be wrong.  I bought a new Maserati Biturbo and found that 2nd gear 
sucked. I heard Alfa Romeos had the same problem but had solved it by 
using ATF so I tried it.  Worked beautifully and my gearbox worked 
like a Swiss sewing machine for years.   So the engineers were wrong 
and recommend the wrong oil.  One consideration is that modern 
machinery means closer tolerances which effects any reconditioned 
engine that has had the bores, pistons, and piston rings 
done.  Another consideration is that oil, petrol, and grease have 
changed since MGBs were pups.



At 06:03 AM 4/27/2012, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>One of the phenomena about our LBCs is the that everybody has 
>his/her own idea about the fluids to use in the things.  Seem like 
>the factory manual has to be superseded by "facts."  So, the factory 
>manual says to use engine oil in the transmission & 
>overdrive?  Nuts!  Folklore sez that ain't right!  Let's put (fill 
>in the blanks) in it!
>
>Sheesh, I can remember when there was a long thread on this list 
>about whether to use detergent oil in the gearbox or not.  Someone 
>came up with the bright idea that the detergents would harm the synchros.
>
>Me, I figure that the engineers who designed the gearbox might know 
>what lube to use in it and they said so in the manual.  My 
>gearbox/overdrive has Castrol 20W50 in it.  Been running that way 
>for many years.
>
>OOPS!  I'm now using Valvoline Racing oil in the engine for the ZDDP 
>content.  Yikes! Maybe I ought to replace the oil in the tranny!(?)
>
>And so it goes..........
>
>CR
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Fri Apr 27 12:53:48 2012
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 19:53:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA door pillar spacing
Message-ID: <375D81789D44455AAB794EF18314008D@TomVistaPC>

Hi guys, I'm in the process of starting to strip down my latest project (MK1
MGA1600). The car would appear to be original but in need of a full body off
rebuild with the usual repairs. I'm making a set of door gap bracing out of 1"
square box section to keep the body ridged when I lift it off the chassis. The
bracing will be welded to plates which will be screwed to the hinge mounting
points and the door shut mounting. Measuring everything up I currently have a
1/4" difference between the near side and the off side door gaps when measured
between the inside edges at the top of the A & B pillars. The measurements I
have are 30" & 30+1/4".

Does anyone have the measurements as they should be or a car which is correct
and can take the measurements for me please?

Many thanks

Tom
MK1 MGA 1600
AH 3000 BJ8
Classic Mini Park Lane.

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Apr 27 13:13:28 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 14:13:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA door pillar spacing
In-Reply-To: <375D81789D44455AAB794EF18314008D@TomVistaPC>
References: <375D81789D44455AAB794EF18314008D@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <4F9AEFD8.2090200@justbrits.com>

<< On 4/27/2012 1:53 PM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:

             I'm making a set of door gap bracing out of 1" square box 
section to keep
                      the body ridged when I lift it off the chassis. >>

Big time OVERKILL, Tom <G> ! !

Just p/u a couple "sticks" (1/2" x 8' or 10' foot - area dependent) of 
electrical
conduit.  Cut to proper over-sized length and add @ 4" to both ends.  
Get your
handy-dandy BFH out and flatten those 4" ends.  Locate the 1st piece, 
oh say 4"
down from top of door and screw into place.  Repeat and bottom of door 
opening.
Repeat using a diagonal piece of pipe across door opening.  Repeat on 
the other
side <VBG> ! !

Same procedure for front to back and any other location you feel needs 
bracing.

I've got a pic of a MGTD 'tub' done this way and it has been moved a LOT.
Doors FALL into perfect place <VBG> ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  I'll try to find later today, put up on my site and let ya'll 
know when up.

From guinness at stclegal.com  Fri Apr 27 15:00:57 2012
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:00:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Source for rubber suspension boots seals that won't perish
 quickly
Message-ID: <4F9B0909.4020000@stclegal.com>

Does anyone have a source for the rubber seals on the front suspension 
of an MGA that are not prone to disintegration in two years?  I am 
referring to the small rubber caps/boots that seal the interface between 
the swivel pin and the links, and seal the inset washers at the send of 
the link bolts (item 18 on your Moss exploded diagram)
-- 
Robert Guinness

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Fri Apr 27 15:53:12 2012
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (stargazer1 at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 17:53:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Source for rubber suspension boots seals that won't
 perish quickly
In-Reply-To: <4F9B0909.4020000@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <20120427175312.NERMR.493907.imail@fed1rmwml213>

I wish I knew. I wonder if coating them with armorall before installation would help?

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Apr 27 21:58:27 2012
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:58:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Project for Barney ? ! ?
Message-ID: <4F9B6AE3.4030200@justbrits.com>

**
One (1) winter, Barney <G>? ! ?

Anon

*XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
**http://tinyurl.com/76hyfl3

or
**
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-PARTS-CAR-NO-RESERVE-/280870494867?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item41652fa293
*

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Apr 27 23:15:17 2012
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 00:15:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Project for Barney ? ! ?
In-Reply-To: <4F9B6AE3.4030200@justbrits.com>
References: <4F9B6AE3.4030200@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <201204280515.q3S5FOYn018052@nlpi129.prodigy.net>

Obviously someone got killed in that one.  I'd like to see a video of 
that accident, just to see what caused all the body damage.  It looks 
like a mostly complete car.  Pity the frame is bent.  Would make a 
nice kit car if you chuck the body.  If it was closer to home I might 
turn it into $2500 in parts.


At 10:58 PM 4/27/2012 -0500, \" Just Brits \" Shop wrote:
>....
>One (1) winter, Barney <G>? ! ?
>....
>http://tinyurl.com/76hyfl3
>or
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-PARTS-CAR-NO-RESERVE-/280870494867?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item41652fa293

From riverside at southslope.net  Sat Apr 28 00:25:50 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 01:25:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Source for rubber suspension boots seals that won't
 perish quickly
In-Reply-To: <20120427175312.NERMR.493907.imail@fed1rmwml213>
References: <20120427175312.NERMR.493907.imail@fed1rmwml213>
Message-ID: <BCB865BE3959481B9260621AD80A8662@rileyPC>

Nope,doesn't help a bit.
Ron

-----Original Message----- 
From: stargazer1 at cox.net
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 4:53 PM
To: MG List ; Robert J. Guinness
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Source for rubber suspension boots seals that won't 
perish quickly

I wish I knew. I wonder if coating them with armorall before installation 
would help?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Apr 28 05:39:35 2012
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 06:39:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
In-Reply-To: <E1SNnIa-0006Ru-Vj@beta.look.ca>
References: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<4F9A6EFF.6080002@ktc.com> <E1SNnIa-0006Ru-Vj@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4F9BD6F7.4020804@ktc.com>

What do you mean by "second gear sucked" Barrie?  Did it suck air?  :-D

Actually, it sounds like there was something bad about the design of the 
gearbox and the ATF was a patch on the problem.  Glad it worked out for 
you, though.

CR



On 4/27/2012 10:12 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> I am an engineer from good old Blighty and I know that engineers can 
> be wrong.  I bought a new Maserati Biturbo and found that 2nd gear 
> sucked. I heard Alfa Romeos had the same problem but had solved it by 
> using ATF so I tried it.  Worked beautifully and my gearbox worked 
> like a Swiss sewing machine for years.   So the engineers were wrong 
> and recommend the wrong oil.  One consideration is that modern 
> machinery means closer tolerances which effects any reconditioned 
> engine that has had the bores, pistons, and piston rings done.  
> Another consideration is that oil, petrol, and grease have changed 
> since MGBs were pups.

From cgmoog at optonline.net  Sat Apr 28 06:55:00 2012
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 08:55:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1966 OD Plug
In-Reply-To: <4F9BD6F7.4020804@ktc.com>
References: <20120426.160425.1482.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<4F9A6EFF.6080002@ktc.com> <E1SNnIa-0006Ru-Vj@beta.look.ca>
	<4F9BD6F7.4020804@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <4F9BE8A4.70907@optonline.net>

I try to follow OEM recommendations but do stray on some lubrication 
issues.  Some times the OEMs have no clue.  The LT77 5-speed is one such 
example.  Started as SAE 75 gearbox oil, then they recommended engine 
oil, then ATF.  I also believe MGs started with gearbox oil then changed 
their recommendation to engine oil to improve shift action.

In most of my manual boxes, I use Pennzoil Sychromesh Transmission 
fluid.  Its a synthetic low viscosity (slightly thicker than AFT,  
Almost the same as 10weight oils, designed to solve some heat and 
bearing related failures in GM Fiero transmissions made by Getrag (or so 
I've heard).  Its very popular with the T5 Mustang crowd.  Seems to keep 
smooth shifts in a box that well known for balky upshifts (fiber sychros 
are not too strong).


On 4/28/2012 7:39 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> Actually, it sounds like there was something bad about the design of 
> the gearbox and the ATF was a patch on the problem.  Glad it worked 
> out for you, though.
>
>
>> I am an engineer from good old Blighty and I know that engineers can 
>> be wrong.  I bought a new Maserati Biturbo and found that 2nd gear 
>> sucked. I heard Alfa Romeos had the same problem but had solved it by 
>> using ATF so I tried it.  Worked beautifully and my gearbox worked 
>> like a Swiss sewing machine for years.   So the engineers were wrong 
>> and recommend the wrong oil.  One consideration is that modern 
>> machinery means closer tolerances which effects any reconditioned 
>> engine that has had the bores, pistons, and piston rings done.  
>> Another consideration is that oil, petrol, and grease have changed 
>> since MGBs were pups.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/cgmoog at optonline.net