[Mgs] Temperature sender

[Barney Gaylord]

Originally it ran an along the head gasket edge with a P-clip on the 
heater valve top stud, then a 360d vertical loop (or two for flexing) 
followed by another P-clip on the heater shelf as strain 
relief.  Then it went through a big grommet in the firewall followrd 
by another P-clip on the back side of the firewall, and excess length 
was coiled up there between the clip and the gauge.

Since I drive a lot and do a fair amount of service on the engine, I 
take a different route with the tube.  I go straight sideways with a 
vertical loop (for flexing), then a P-clip on the inner fender with a 
bit of rubber of tape for scuff resistance.  I also tie wrap the 
vertical loop to the top radiator hose for additional strain relief, 
and to keep the tube away from the generator (or alternator in my 
case).  Then run along the inner fender just below the 4" heater air 
hose, generally out of harm's way, with a P-clip on the heater shelf 
for more strain relief.  Then through a large grommet in the 
firewall, followed by another P-clip (when I can rememebr it) on the 
rear side of the firewall, then multiple loops for the excess length 
before attaching to the gauge.

In spite of sometimes forgetting the clip behind the firewall I have 
never known a tube to break there.  Most commeon break point is 
between engine and body due to flexing without a loop, or missing 
P-clips.  With routing along the inner fender, when need to R&R the 
cylinder head or whole engine, I cut the tie wrap on the radiator 
hose, disconnect sensor from head, and tuck the sensor out of harm's 
way back against the fender below the 4" air duct.  Haven't had a 
broken tube since following this scheme.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with n attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 05:47 PM 9/28/2011 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>....
>BTW, does anyone know the original routing of the capillary tube? ....