From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  1 01:41:41 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 08:41:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Brake bleeding question
References: <02020361C6824D2BAB04DBCAD7A6C46E@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<B47D56D7AFB144E9BFB537323A831332@paul> <4E5E7656.5040908@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <2E7FC1E8895142C98A065F33C4F10DB4@paul>

You go by whether you have the master with or without the servo.

----- Original Message ----- 

> How do you tell which one you have?
> 
> On 8/28/2011 8:44 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>> There's two types of brake balance switch.  I think the one on the 
>> non-servo master is left screwed in but you have to bleed the first 
>> circuit again very carefully until the light just goes out.  With the 
>> servo master you unscrew the switch, bleed, then screw back.  The 
>> difference is the first is a non-latching shuttle that is moved away 
>> from each circuit as it's being bled, the latter is a spring loaded 
>> shuttle that recentralises itself as long as the switch is unscrewed.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> ... Now Haynes says when bleeding with PDWA
>>> start in the front closest to the master cylinder then work away 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  1 02:21:50 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 09:21:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  Brake bleeding question
Message-ID: <7751CD54251C4CC88CB6EA32942BF154@paul>

Sent to the list as a direct reply was rejected.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "davewillner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake bleeding question


>I believe so.  But if the light comes on under hard braking, but then goes 
>off when you release the brakes, there is either some air in one of the 
>circuits or the shuttle is very near the switching point on one side.  Also 
>under normal conditions relatively little fluid will flow into the 
>callipers as the pads are kept pretty much in contact with the discs, 
>whereas the shoes are pulled back by springs which pushes the pistons back 
>into the cylinders when you release the brakes, so fluid has to flow back 
>into them to apply the rear brakes.  Normally this isn't an issue as the 
>rear slave piston surface area is much less then the front calliper area, 
>so much the same amount of fluid ends up flowing to the rears as to the 
>fronts.  However if the rear brakes (shoes and handbrake cable) are poorly 
>adjusted, giving a lot of travel, more fluid will flow.  Also if a flex 
>hose somewhere is expanding under heavy braking again more fluid will flow 
>into that circuit. Either of these will cause the shuttle to move, but it 
>shouldn't normally be enough to make the light come on, unless as I say 
>perhaps the shuttle is near the switching point on one side.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> So Paul with a non-servo system then, even with the light off, I need to 
>> do a "regular" bleed rear to front with the nylon PDWA nut screwed in all 
>> the way, correct? As I mentioned extreme hard braking causes the light to 
>> come on momentarily near a complete stop...but its not always on, even 
>> with the key turned on, so does that mean the piston is centered now?

From sgorr2 at comcast.net  Mon Sep  5 09:56:19 2011
From: sgorr2 at comcast.net (Steven Gorr)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 10:56:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stop/Brake lights gone AWOL? '78 MGB
Message-ID: <FB87C2A0AEE54756946E750C0E6F6E64@sgorrAcer7>

Need some help finding where my brake lights have gone. I have, so far,
cleaned the #3 fuse connections as that seems to feed the green circuit. I
have cleaned the bullet connectors in the boot. Checked the bulbs. Removed and
tested the switch on the back of the pedal box. I did get them to come back
once, but subsequent pushes on the pedal failed. Ibm stumped as to what to
try next. Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Sep  5 10:57:35 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 11:57:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stop/Brake lights gone AWOL? '78 MGB
In-Reply-To: <FB87C2A0AEE54756946E750C0E6F6E64@sgorrAcer7>
References: <FB87C2A0AEE54756946E750C0E6F6E64@sgorrAcer7>
Message-ID: <712383.12899.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Diagnosing lamps is easy.  Use a test light.  Anywhere in the circuit 
you either have power or you don't.  Start at the brake switch.  If 
no power on the input side, check upstream (the fusebox 
connections).  If power in but no power on the output side with pedal 
pressed, replace the switch (commonly bad), or it may only need 
adjustment.  If power out with pedal pressed, move on to the brake 
lamps.  If no power at the lamp input, look for a loose or corroded 
connector in the harness between the switch and lamp.  If power in at 
the lamp but no light, it may be a burnt out bulb.  Otherwise look 
for loose bulb connections or bad ground connection.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 10:56 AM 9/5/2011 -0500, Steven Gorr wrote:
>Need some help finding where my brake lights have gone. I have, so far,
>cleaned the #3 fuse connections as that seems to feed the green circuit. I
>have cleaned the bullet connectors in the boot. Checked the bulbs. Removed and
>tested the switch on the back of the pedal box. I did get them to come back
>once, but subsequent pushes on the pedal failed. Ibm stumped as to what to
>try next. Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.

From sgorr2 at comcast.net  Mon Sep  5 11:30:35 2011
From: sgorr2 at comcast.net (Steven Gorr)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 12:30:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stop/Brake lights gone AWOL? '78 MGB
In-Reply-To: <712383.12899.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <FB87C2A0AEE54756946E750C0E6F6E64@sgorrAcer7>
	<712383.12899.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D7F751E6D90A402282DF17BE232DF159@sgorrAcer7>

Found the solution was to use an old 22 caliber bore brush on the female
bullet connectors at the switch. Hey, the bulbs even seem a bit brighter than
I remember. I guess the corrosion was slowly  adding resistance.

From: Barney Gaylord
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 11:57 AM
To: Steven Gorr ; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stop/Brake lights gone AWOL? '78 MGB

Diagnosing lamps is easy.  Use a test light.  Anywhere in the circuit you
either have power or you don't.  Start at the brake switch.  If no power on
the input side, check upstream (the fusebox connections).  If power in but no
power on the output side with pedal pressed, replace the switch (commonly
bad), or it may only need adjustment.  If power out with pedal pressed, move
on to the brake lamps.  If no power at the lamp input, look for a loose or
corroded connector in the harness between the switch and lamp.  If power in at
the lamp but no light, it may be a burnt out bulb.  Otherwise look for loose
bulb connections or bad ground connection.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 10:56 AM 9/5/2011 -0500, Steven Gorr wrote:

  Need some help finding where my brake lights have gone. I have, so far,
  cleaned the #3 fuse connections as that seems to feed the green circuit. I
  have cleaned the bullet connectors in the boot. Checked the bulbs. Removed
and
  tested the switch on the back of the pedal box. I did get them to come back
  once, but subsequent pushes on the pedal failed. Ibm stumped as to what to
  try next. Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Mon Sep  5 12:48:33 2011
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 14:48:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Stop/Brake lights gone AWOL? '78 MGB
In-Reply-To: <712383.12899.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <FB87C2A0AEE54756946E750C0E6F6E64@sgorrAcer7>
	<712383.12899.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009801cc6bfc$69f50e20$3ddf2a60$@com>

Also check the ground in the boot behind the number plate.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barney Gaylord
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 12:58 PM
To: Steven Gorr; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stop/Brake lights gone AWOL? '78 MGB

Diagnosing lamps is easy.  Use a test light.  Anywhere in the circuit 
you either have power or you don't.  Start at the brake switch.  If 
no power on the input side, check upstream (the fusebox 
connections).  If power in but no power on the output side with pedal 
pressed, replace the switch (commonly bad), or it may only need 
adjustment.  If power out with pedal pressed, move on to the brake 
lamps.  If no power at the lamp input, look for a loose or corroded 
connector in the harness between the switch and lamp.  If power in at 
the lamp but no light, it may be a burnt out bulb.  Otherwise look 
for loose bulb connections or bad ground connection.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 10:56 AM 9/5/2011 -0500, Steven Gorr wrote:
>Need some help finding where my brake lights have gone. I have, so far,
>cleaned the #3 fuse connections as that seems to feed the green circuit. I
>have cleaned the bullet connectors in the boot. Checked the bulbs. Removed
and
>tested the switch on the back of the pedal box. I did get them to come back
>once, but subsequent pushes on the pedal failed. Ibm stumped as to what to
>try next. Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/steve at coastaldatasystems.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep  6 02:42:18 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 09:42:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Stop/Brake lights gone AWOL? '78 MGB
References: <FB87C2A0AEE54756946E750C0E6F6E64@sgorrAcer7>
Message-ID: <C3B75F078248433AB0FFEB4E71C3577A@paul>

First step is to bridge the contacts on the switch.  If that lights the 
lamps (ignition on ...) then the problem is the switch itself.  If not then 
with the pedal pressed check for 12v at the switch contacts.  If low of zero 
go back to the fusebox, if 12v check the connections where the switch wire 
joins to the rear harness nearby, and the connections near the right-hand 
light.  Remember you could have more than one fault, and the pedal must be 
pressed i.e. switch closed to reveal bad connections.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Need some help finding where my brake lights have gone. 

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 19:52:33 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 21:52:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Premium Ceramic Brake Pads
Message-ID: <4e66ce5f.4760340a.589e.43e2@mx.google.com>

Are these pads significantly better than the stock organic ones?  Are they
appropriate for normal street use?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Sep  6 20:03:45 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2011 19:03:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Premium Ceramic Brake Pads
In-Reply-To: <4e66ce5f.4760340a.589e.43e2@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CA8C1F11.34578%mvheim@sonic.net>

I like them a lot. They definitely have more bite than standard pads. And
they work cold, unlike metallics. I got them for touring and mountain
driving, but I have no complaints in normal street use. They give me
confidence in traffic. Two thumbs up.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 9/6/11 6:52 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss at gmail.com wrote:

> Are these pads significantly better than the stock organic ones?  Are they
> appropriate for normal street use?
> 
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 23:57:33 2011
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 22:57:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] "The Hour"
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyOz=oupfGhE-AC9pCgP=je8jExh6B_-khuK0wZ6X5SmyA@mail.gmail.com>

Did anyone else see the rather nice MGA on the BBC series "The Hour"?
It's on BBC America, so there is no excuse for US-based readers!

Simon

From mcolson40 at hotmail.com  Wed Sep  7 15:32:06 2011
From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com (Milton Olson)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 17:32:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] First motion transmission input shaft question.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1315418403.30061.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1315418403.30061.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W42EC88A6E3B78566F29ACAB41F0@phx.gbl>

I am working on my 1978 Midget transmission, can anyone give me the diameter
of the input shaft where it enters the crankshaft? I can't find this dimention
in my manuals.
Thanks, Milton
1978 MG Midget.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  8 01:45:57 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 08:45:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Premium Ceramic Brake Pads
References: <4e66ce5f.4760340a.589e.43e2@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <F7B807E548F546038E035CFBC2CC8991@paul>

It's the tyre patch that stops you (or not).  If you can't lock the front 
wheels by progressive braking from speed (not banging them on, that locks 
them more easily) with standard MGB brakes and pads there is something wrong 
with your brakes (or leg).  Uprated brakes are really only going to add 
anything under extreme conditions and competition.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Are these pads significantly better than the stock organic ones?  Are they
> appropriate for normal street use?

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Sep  8 10:51:18 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 09:51:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Premium Ceramic Brake Pads
In-Reply-To: <F7B807E548F546038E035CFBC2CC8991@paul>
Message-ID: <CA8E4096.345FA%mvheim@sonic.net>

True enough, but there is also the question of feel. And fade. That's where
the ceramics are noticeably different.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 9/8/11 12:45 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> It's the tyre patch that stops you (or not).  If you can't lock the front
> wheels by progressive braking from speed (not banging them on, that locks
> them more easily) with standard MGB brakes and pads there is something wrong
> with your brakes (or leg).  Uprated brakes are really only going to add
> anything under extreme conditions and competition.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Are these pads significantly better than the stock organic ones?  Are they
>> appropriate for normal street use?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 12 04:41:27 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 11:41:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] "Supercars ...
Message-ID: <5B9C46B685AC4A849BC455C6AE7D4BB6@paul>

... are built to excite the speed-gene that lives in us all; they are designed
to release the cocktail of chemicals that is titillated when we are small and
we are pushed higher and higher on the swings" - Jeremy Clarkson.

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Mon Sep 12 16:47:01 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 18:47:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Slow Starter
Message-ID: <8CE3FB5052D8903-F90-9470@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>

 The starter on my 1960 MGA works fine when I first start the car, however,
after driving several miles it barely turns.  It acts like a car with a low
battery, but I know my battery is good.  The car runs between 160 and 190
degrees, so it is not likely an issue of excessive heat.Could this be an
internal problem in the starter?


Bill Wilkman
1960 MGA
In Family Since New

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Sep 12 18:16:51 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 17:16:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Slow Starter
In-Reply-To: <8CE3FB5052D8903-F90-9470@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CA93EF03.34772%mvheim@sonic.net>

It sounds like corrosion at the battery posts, or at the starter connection.
At any rate, high resistance.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/12/11 3:47 PM, wilkmanracing at aol.com at wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:

>  The starter on my 1960 MGA works fine when I first start the car, however,
> after driving several miles it barely turns.  It acts like a car with a low
> battery, but I know my battery is good.  The car runs between 160 and 190
> degrees, so it is not likely an issue of excessive heat.Could this be an
> internal problem in the starter?
> 
> 
> Bill Wilkman
> 1960 MGA
> In Family Since New
> _______________________________________________

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 18:51:40 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 20:51:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Permium Cermic brake pads
Message-ID: <4e6ea91a.c223340a.247b.01e0@mx.google.com>

I received several responses, both for and against, to my previous post on
this subject, so I thought I ought to post my results.

I installed a set of these over the weekend and broke them in according to
the instruction sheet.  They worked fine on my round trip to work today (~25
miles each way plus a short trip to the gym at lunch time).  It may be
subjective, but they do seem to have a more solid feel to them than the
stock pads which I replaced.

Ordinarily, I would not have spent the extra $14 on the premium pads, but
the others were out of stock when I placed the order.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Sep 13 01:45:33 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 02:45:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Slow Starter
In-Reply-To: <8CE3FB5052D8903-F90-9470@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE3FB5052D8903-F90-9470@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <254515.25355.qm@smtp112.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Could be too much spark advance causing it to kick back before going 
over TDC.  Not a problem when cold because it doesn't fire on the 
first couple of strokes until it gets spinning good with the 
flywheel.  Next time it happens, try this.  Switch off, pull starter, 
give it a turn or too to get spinning well, then switch on.to 
run.  If that works, then you need to retard ignition timing.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 06:47 PM 9/12/2011 -0400, Bill Wilkman wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
>  The starter on my 1960 MGA works fine when I first start the car, 
> however, after driving several miles it barely turns.  It acts like 
> a car with a low battery, but I know my battery is good.  The car 
> runs between 160 and 190 degrees, so it is not likely an issue of 
> excessive heat.Could this be an internal problem in the starter?
>....

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 13 04:01:58 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 11:01:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Slow Starter
References: <8CE3FB5052D8903-F90-9470@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004314B37BFC45B4AC7D85B010F03339@paul>

I've just had a very similar problem on my V8 with hot starting, sounded 
like a flat battery even if tried immediately after switching off.  That 
turned out to be plugs - self-inflicted, I realised I hadn't changed them in 
25k miles.

Ordinarily the first thing to do would be to measure the voltage while 
cranking right on the battery posts, if you see 10v or better it's not the 
battery.  Does an MGA have twin 6v batteries?  If so do each battery 
separately (5v or better is good) as the problem could be in the link cable. 
Otherwise it could be in the connections anywhere from there to the motor, 
or in the motor itself.  So the next step is to measure the voltage on the 
motor terminals while cranking, and compare that with the battery voltage. 
Ideally the motor will only be about 0.5v lower, if it's more than one volt 
(and I have seen more than 3v lost) then it's worth breaking the heavy 
current circuit down into sections for measurement.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The starter on my 1960 MGA works fine when I first start the car, however,
> after driving several miles it barely turns.  It acts like a car with a 
> low
> battery, but I know my battery is good. 

From kger at plex.com  Tue Sep 13 07:07:10 2011
From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 09:07:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] On the road again!
Message-ID: <4E6F557E.7364.37A25380@kger.plex.com>

Cue that Willie Nelson song...

After far too long, I finally have my B on the road again.  I've driven it to work twice now, 
taking advantage of what looks to be the last of the reasonably warm mornings this year here 
in the upper American midwest.  More things need to be done on the car, for sure--and you'll 
see some questions posted here soon--but at least it's driveable again.


-- 
Keith G.
1979 B

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 13 08:22:32 2011
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:22:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] On the road again!
In-Reply-To: <4E6F557E.7364.37A25380@kger.plex.com>
References: <4E6F557E.7364.37A25380@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <1315923752.57970.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Congrats, Keith!

 
Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer
(Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase
________________________________
From: Keith G. <kger at plex.com>
To:
mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 9:07 AM
Subject: [Mgs] On
the road again!

Cue that Willie Nelson song...

After far too long, I finally
have my B on the road again.  I've driven it to work twice now, 
taking
advantage of what looks to be the last of the reasonably warm mornings this
year here 
in the upper American midwest.  More things need to be done on the
car, for sure--and you'll 
see some questions posted here soon--but at least
it's driveable again.


-- 
Keith G.
1979 B
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From palte at gmx.net  Tue Sep 13 08:57:29 2011
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 16:57:29 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] On the road again!
In-Reply-To: <4E6F557E.7364.37A25380@kger.plex.com>
References: <4E6F557E.7364.37A25380@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <20110913145729.184220@gmx.net>

Well Keith, this must make you very proud!
Congratulations and enjoy your drives.
Let's hope the weather continues to be nice for some time to come.


Bert
1970 B
Netherlands

-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 09:07:10 -0400
> Von: "Keith G." <kger at plex.com>
> An: mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Mgs] On the road again!

> Cue that Willie Nelson song...
> 
> After far too long, I finally have my B on the road again.  I've driven it
> to work twice now, 
> taking advantage of what looks to be the last of the reasonably warm
> mornings this year here 
> in the upper American midwest.  More things need to be done on the car,
> for sure--and you'll 
> see some questions posted here soon--but at least it's driveable again.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Keith G.
> 1979 B
> _______________________________________________
>
-- 
Empfehlen Sie GMX DSL Ihren Freunden und Bekannten und wir
belohnen Sie mit bis zu 50,- Euro! https://freundschaftswerbung.gmx.de

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Wed Sep 14 12:20:55 2011
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (sdesalvo at frontiernet.net)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 18:20:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
Message-ID: <1454930741.968927.1316024455758.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>

Hi all,
I am trying to locate the backup light switch on my "72 MGB so as to replace it. I need it for inspection purposes, otherwise it never gets used. Thanks in advance for any input.
Sam

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Sep 14 14:56:01 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 20:56:01 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
Message-ID: <20110914.165601.30165.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Sam,
   It's not easy to see, but can be seen, through the opening in the tunnel
through which the shift lever passes.
   Remove the knob, then the ring and the gaiter.
   Feel forward in the hole. Fingers can reach this switch that's almost on
centerline of the remote housing.
   If you have OD, that OD switch is forward and down, and more difficult to
reach.
   These two are the same switch, activated by a plunger that fits into a
notch in the linkage below.  It may be that a wire has come adrift, so look
for that before hassling the switch out and installing new.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net
To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 18:20:55 +0000 (UTC)

Hi all,
I am trying to locate the backup light switch on my "72 MGB so as to replace
it. I need it for inspection purposes, otherwise it never gets used. Thanks in
advance for any input.
Sam
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Sep 14 14:58:41 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 20:58:41 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
Message-ID: <20110914.165841.30165.1@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

  Forgot to mention---though it's not shown in the workshop manual, the
switch on the gearbox is shown in Moss catalogue.
Bob




---------- Original Message ----------
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net
To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 18:20:55 +0000 (UTC)

Hi all,
I am trying to locate the backup light switch on my "72 MGB so as to replace
it. I need it for inspection purposes, otherwise it never gets used. Thanks in
advance for any input.
Sam

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 14 15:29:44 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 14:29:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
In-Reply-To: <1454930741.968927.1316024455758.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <CA966AD8.34833%mvheim@sonic.net>

It's on the transmission, near the top, on one side of where the shift lever
comes out. I always forget which side, since there are two visually
identical switches, one on each side -- one is the OD lockout, and the other
is the reverse light. I assume a non-OD transmission has a plug in one
location.

>From the shift pattern, I'm guessing the reverse lamp switch is on the
driver side (NA).

My 66B has a removable cover on the tranny tunnel. Without that, it is
probably a little tight trying to reach it from the top though the shifter
hole. You might have to try it blind from the bottom. It's like a fat
screw-in plug that takes a very large wrench (1-inch?) .

If the light isn't working, the wire may not be hooked up, the tranny may
not be adequately grounded, or the switch may just need to be adjusted with
washers.

I should add, I have a 1977 OD transmission -- otherwise I wouldn't have a
reverse switch at all. I don't have any backup lights.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 9/14/11 11:20 AM, sdesalvo at frontiernet.net at sdesalvo at frontiernet.net
wrote:

> Hi all,
> I am trying to locate the backup light switch on my "72 MGB so as to replace
> it. I need it for inspection purposes, otherwise it never gets used. Thanks in
> advance for any input.
> Sam
> _______________________________________________

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Wed Sep 14 15:55:06 2011
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 16:55:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
In-Reply-To: <1454930741.968927.1316024455758.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
References: <1454930741.968927.1316024455758.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <004201cc7328$f76577d0$e6306770$@net>

Its in the tunnel near the shifter, not the easiest to get to.  

Look in the moss catalog for a diagram, or here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29014

It's part 122.

You will have to remove the shifter boot and the center console to access
it.  Its about an inch and a half around and it is octagonal, two wires
connected to it.

Hope this helps.
Chad '72 B



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sdesalvo at frontiernet.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 1:21 PM
To: mg list
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch

Hi all,
I am trying to locate the backup light switch on my "72 MGB so as to replace
it. I need it for inspection purposes, otherwise it never gets used. Thanks
in advance for any input.
Sam
_______________________________________________

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep 15 02:02:32 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 09:02:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] backup light switch
References: <1454930741.968927.1316024455758.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <D8DB1E9F132E4F23AE6005CCD8A7C9A9@paul>

It's *near* the top of the gearbox, but on the right-hand side (as you face 
forwards).  It sticks out upwards and sideways so is *relatively* easy 
(compared to the OD switch) to get a pair of channel-lock pliers on it from 
underneath.  Lowering the rear of the gearbox and its crossmember on a jack 
makes it quite a bit easier.  See the bottom image here 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights4.htm#2  This is a rubber bumper gearbox 
but the switches are in the same location on all 4-synch gearboxes.

Why are you planning on replacing it?  Not knowing where the switch is you 
obviously haven't been able to prove the problem isn't caused by a loose 
connection, which is much more likely.  The switch could also be loose and 
just need tightening.  They were also usually fitted with two fibre spacer 
washers, if the operating lever and button has worn removing one of these is 
usually all that is required.  But given the use that reverse gets wear, and 
failure, of the reverse light switch is very rare indeed.  The OD switch 
(which is the same *type* of switch, not the same switch but on the other 
side facing rearwards) gets much more use and even that only rarely fails or 
needs adjustment.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I am trying to locate the backup light switch on my "72 MGB so as to 
> replace it. I need it for inspection purposes, otherwise it never gets 
> used. Thanks in advance for any input.

From crk at godblessthe.us  Fri Sep 16 12:50:37 2011
From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 11:50:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British q
Message-ID: <025601cc74a1$8663dcf0$932b96d0$@us>

I've got both an A and B and currently am remaking my B with paint and
potentially carpet and panels. It seems to me that VB used to be
considerably more expensive than Moss, but in looking at their current
prices, they are actually now less expensive on many items. Has there been a
change? Are the parts now cheap? Or is there something else going on? How
are the carpet and panel kits at both places? Am I better off going to a
local auto upholstery shop and having them do things or just pick up the raw
materials and do it myself? On the B, I am not stuck on "as original" but I
want the interior to be "nice".

 

The A on the other hand, I want to restore to original.

 

TIA,

 

Clayton

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Sep 17 06:10:32 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 12:10:32 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British q
Message-ID: <20110917.081032.17904.1@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Vb sometimes wins on prices.
 Moss always wins on service.
Roadster Factory is another good source.
General feeling in our club is that if you know with certainty that VB is
offering exactly what you want, it may be cheaper, but if you get something
you don't like, you own it anyway.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk at godblessthe.us>
To: "'MG List'" <mgs at autox.team.net>, <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British q
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 11:50:37 -0700

I've got both an A and B and currently am remaking my B with paint and
potentially carpet and panels. It seems to me that VB used to be
considerably more expensive than Moss, but in looking at their current
prices, they are actually now less expensive on many items. Has there been a
change? Are the parts now cheap? Or is there something else going on? How
are the carpet and panel kits at both places? Am I better off going to a
local auto upholstery shop and having them do things or just pick up the raw
materials and do it myself? On the B, I am not stuck on "as original" but I
want the interior to be "nice".



The A on the other hand, I want to restore to original.



TIA,



Clayton
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 17 07:08:34 2011
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 09:08:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British q
In-Reply-To: <025601cc74a1$8663dcf0$932b96d0$@us>
References: <025601cc74a1$8663dcf0$932b96d0$@us>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W35F2AD006AC515F344A5DAB7090@phx.gbl>

It's a difficult question to answer, and you have to be careful what you say
about Moss motors on these lists.  I passed along something someone else said
about a moss product on the MGT list, and got an email from Moss Motors -
complete with my name, address, and account number - basically ordering me to
cease and desist.

That said, there are only a few manufacturers of some restoration parts, and I
suspect both VB and MM have the same suppliers for many products.  For my
Midget project, I used both VB and MM, but mostly VB.  I also used other
suppliers for some things.  For instance, I bought my Carelli carpet on eBay.
Very nice, and a fraction of the VB or MM price.  But it's cut-pile, rather
than the more original loop.  I bought my top on eBay, too.  On the other
hand, I bought my vinyl upholstery on eBay and it was lousy.

Mostly I've bought from VB.  I've had only one problem, with an interior
panel, and VBs customer service was excellent.  I bought less from MM, but one
of the things I bought was incorrectly listed as fitting my car.  When you buy
from MM, I suggest you purchase through Jeff Zorn at www.lbcarco.com (Little
British Car company).  Excellent customer service, and his prices are about
10% under MM catalog prices.

Good luck!

-Mike Eldred
Wilmington, VT


> From: crk at godblessthe.us
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 11:50:37 -0700
> Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British q
>
> I've got both an A and B and currently am remaking my B with paint and
> potentially carpet and panels. It seems to me that VB used to be
> considerably more expensive than Moss, but in looking at their current
> prices, they are actually now less expensive on many items. Has there been
a
> change? Are the parts now cheap? Or is there something else going on? How
> are the carpet and panel kits at both places? Am I better off going to a
> local auto upholstery shop and having them do things or just pick up the
raw
> materials and do it myself? On the B, I am not stuck on "as original" but I
> want the interior to be "nice".
>
>
>
> The A on the other hand, I want to restore to original.
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> Clayton
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Sep 17 13:39:53 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 14:39:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA - EARLY Car No. Plate, Original Details
Message-ID: <562187.61982.qm@smtp108.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Please see first two pictures here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt107.htm
Notice the word in lower left corner of the pate may be either 
"Guarantee" or "Warranty".  I would like to determine when (how 
early) this change of the plate occurred.

So I am calling on everyone who has an MGA with chassis number 
between 10225 June 1955) and 36897 (August 1957) AND has the ORIGINAL 
plate.  Could you check to see if it says "Guarantee" or "Warrantee", 
and respond if you have one that falls in between the chassis numbers 
that will appear here?  I am posting this in a few different venues 
for best coverage, but there should be no need for the responses to 
be duplicated.

From jevans at mydb3.com  Sat Sep 17 15:22:50 2011
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 16:22:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Piper brand camshafts
Message-ID: <3571.108.64.36.238.1316294570.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>

Anyone know of a domestic dealer for British made Piper brand camshafts
for MGB?  Their website dealer listing is pretty sparse, but someone here
must be selling their products.
Jim Evans

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Sat Sep 17 18:51:40 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 19:51:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Victoria British
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-dFaHOZH5Y1UR_otxV40D+2Y-_VEyo7gfn8BvGHaD5Kaw@mail.gmail.com>

I guess I"ll get in trouble with MM since I told of a problem with some of
their products on the Healey list. I second the motion of buying their
products from Jeff Zorn. One of the problems was taken care of with his
help.

I needed some parts quickly and he got them to me. One of the parts was $10
less than Moss. While most of his stuff comes from Moss, Jeff goes where he
has to to get good deals for his customers.

There are other suppliers that care more about the customer. Just look in a
magazine. Most of the parts for my Healey engine rebuild came from Northwest
Import Parts in Portland. Same part, lower price. Also British Car
Specialists is a family own business that has been around for quite a while.
They do repairs and restorations of British Cars, and have a large stock of
new and used parts.

I have no interest in any company, just a very happy customer.

Jack

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sun Sep 18 11:10:33 2011
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 13:10:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] flasher unit help
Message-ID: <7DE0FAE8CBF54DA090FDE2E58B1E14D6@valued9cfc0b6f>

I've never had to replace the flasher unit before in the MG, but the blinkers
stopped working today. I did replace the rubber gaskets for the front turn
signals this morning before the drive but didn't play with any wires? The
fuses are all good... I would have thought it would be near either the relay
or the fuse box, but I don't see it anywhere.  Can anyone tell where its
located?  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Sep 18 17:04:31 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 18:04:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] flasher unit help
In-Reply-To: <7DE0FAE8CBF54DA090FDE2E58B1E14D6@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <7DE0FAE8CBF54DA090FDE2E58B1E14D6@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <26632.88173.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Shound be screwed to the firewall between the fuse box and TS relay 
box on the 1500.  See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/pics/wipe02.jpg
If it is an aftermarket flasher unit with no screw tab, you might 
find it lying behind the heater box.  Look for a short round can with 
three wires conncted, Green, Green/browN, and Light Green.  Some 
aftermarket flashers have onlt two terminals, in which case maybe the 
pilot light does not work.


At 01:10 PM 9/18/2011 -0400, Dave Willner (davewillner) wrote:
>I've never had to replace the flasher unit before in the MG, but the 
>blinkers stopped working today. I did replace the rubber gaskets for 
>the front turn signals this morning before the drive but didn't play 
>with any wires? The fuses are all good... I would have thought it 
>would be near either the relay or the fuse box, but I don't see it 
>anywhere.  Can anyone tell where its located?  ....

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sun Sep 18 18:59:15 2011
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 20:59:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] flasher unit help
References: <7DE0FAE8CBF54DA090FDE2E58B1E14D6@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<26632.88173.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <13813DBDC64D4045A164BF1A543178E7@valued9cfc0b6f>

There's nothing in the engine bay... someone said its under the dash on the 
passenger side, haven't looked yet...I think the unit for a 70 is a square 
unit based on thecatalogs, my TR3 has the round Lucas unit on the firewall 
near the fuse box and regulator...
Thanks
Dave
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
To: "davewillner" <dwillner at ptd.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] flasher unit help


> Shound be screwed to the firewall between the fuse box and TS relay box on 
> the 1500.  See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/pics/wipe02.jpg
> If it is an aftermarket flasher unit with no screw tab, you might find it 
> lying behind the heater box.  Look for a short round can with three wires 
> conncted, Green, Green/browN, and Light Green.  Some aftermarket flashers 
> have onlt two terminals, in which case maybe the pilot light does not 
> work.
>
>
> At 01:10 PM 9/18/2011 -0400, Dave Willner (davewillner) wrote:
>>I've never had to replace the flasher unit before in the MG, but the 
>>blinkers stopped working today. I did replace the rubber gaskets for the 
>>front turn signals this morning before the drive but didn't play with any 
>>wires? The fuses are all good... I would have thought it would be near 
>>either the relay or the fuse box, but I don't see it anywhere.  Can anyone 
>>tell where its located?  ....

From runner01 at wowway.com  Sun Sep 18 21:05:24 2011
From: runner01 at wowway.com (Ray Graham)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 22:05:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Indicator Light
In-Reply-To: <26632.88173.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E88D33AE592460789513B411A6330C0@AcerPC>

Hey Folks,
Since it is signal related...I can't my right turn signal indicator light to
burn on my 66 MGB?  Turn signal works fine but the signal light on the dash
is a know show?  The bulb is good.

Any help,
Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barney Gaylord
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 6:05 PM
To: davewillner; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] flasher unit help


Shound be screwed to the firewall between the fuse box and TS relay
box on the 1500.  See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/pics/wipe02.jpg
If it is an aftermarket flasher unit with no screw tab, you might
find it lying behind the heater box.  Look for a short round can with
three wires conncted, Green, Green/browN, and Light Green.  Some
aftermarket flashers have onlt two terminals, in which case maybe the
pilot light does not work.


At 01:10 PM 9/18/2011 -0400, Dave Willner (davewillner) wrote:
>I've never had to replace the flasher unit before in the MG, but the
>blinkers stopped working today. I did replace the rubber gaskets for
>the front turn signals this morning before the drive but didn't play
>with any wires? The fuses are all good... I would have thought it
>would be near either the relay or the fuse box, but I don't see it
>anywhere.  Can anyone tell where its located?  ....
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/runner01 at wowway.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 19 02:00:01 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 09:00:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] flasher unit help
References: <7DE0FAE8CBF54DA090FDE2E58B1E14D6@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <47EDC316D663438BA5F4057CE23B72F7@paul>

MGB, I presume.  They are behind the dash attached to the firewall, the 
lower edge in front of the driver on my 73 RHD.  It should push into a 
spring-clip and have green and light-green/brown wires.  It's that which 
plinks when you turn so needs to be in the cabin to be heard.

If you had upset something by removing the front turn signals - which is 
possible as they earth through their mounting screws - then you would have 
had to have done the same thing to both if neither side works, and both rear 
lights would still glow but not flash.  If nothing at all is happening it is 
coincidental.  When you find the flasher unit bridge the two contacts with 
the ignition on and the turn switch moved to first one side and the other. 
If both front and rear light but don't flash, the flasher unit is faulty. 
If still nothing happens, check for 12v on the bridged contacts at the 
flasher unit with the cob.  If you see it the problem lies towards the turn 
switch.  If you don't see 12v then the problem is more than likely in the 
hazard switch, the 12v gets to the turn flasher unit via this switch in the 
off position, and these switches are so little used the grease hardens and 
can act act an insulator.  Flipping the switch back and fore can sometimes 
fix it, but in the end I had to dismantle the switch (in a poly bag to catch 
all the bits), dif out the old grease and put in fresh.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I've never had to replace the flasher unit before in the MG, but the 
> blinkers
> stopped working today. I did replace the rubber gaskets for the front turn
> signals this morning before the drive but didn't play with any wires? The
> fuses are all good... 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 19 02:05:32 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 09:05:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Turn Signal Indicator Light
References: <4E88D33AE592460789513B411A6330C0@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <4979EB3F2A69425EA96D1B5707EB23AA@paul>

A 66 probably has the old round, three-pin flasher unit.  On these the third 
wire (light-green/purple) goes through a 4-way bullet to one side of both 
repeaters, then a light-green/blue comes from the right-hand repeater to an 
additional normally open switch contact in the turn switch that closes to 
earth when the switch is operated that way.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Since it is signal related...I can't my right turn signal indicator light 
> to
> burn on my 66 MGB?  Turn signal works fine but the signal light on the 
> dash
> is a know show?  The bulb is good.

From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Sep 19 03:19:56 2011
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 05:19:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] flasher unit help
In-Reply-To: <13813DBDC64D4045A164BF1A543178E7@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <7DE0FAE8CBF54DA090FDE2E58B1E14D6@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<26632.88173.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<13813DBDC64D4045A164BF1A543178E7@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <4E77093C.2010401@snet.net>

Seeing as you replaced the gaskets just before the failure I would check 
to be sure you still have a good ground first. They ground through the 
mounting screws.
Mike
'79B

On 9/18/2011 8:59 PM, davewillner wrote:
> There's nothing in the engine bay... someone said its under the dash on the
> passenger side, haven't looked yet...I think the unit for a 70 is a square
> unit based on thecatalogs, my TR3 has the round Lucas unit on the firewall
> near the fuse box and regulator...
> Thanks
> Dave
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Barney Gaylord"<barneymg at mgaguru.com>
> To: "davewillner"<dwillner at ptd.net>;<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 7:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] flasher unit help
>
>
>> Shound be screwed to the firewall between the fuse box and TS relay box on
>> the 1500.  See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/pics/wipe02.jpg
>> If it is an aftermarket flasher unit with no screw tab, you might find it
>> lying behind the heater box.  Look for a short round can with three wires
>> conncted, Green, Green/browN, and Light Green.  Some aftermarket flashers
>> have onlt two terminals, in which case maybe the pilot light does not
>> work.
>>
>>
>> At 01:10 PM 9/18/2011 -0400, Dave Willner (davewillner) wrote:
>>> I've never had to replace the flasher unit before in the MG, but the
>>> blinkers stopped working today. I did replace the rubber gaskets for the
>>> front turn signals this morning before the drive but didn't play with any
>>> wires? The fuses are all good... I would have thought it would be near
>>> either the relay or the fuse box, but I don't see it anywhere.  Can anyone
>>> tell where its located?  ....

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Sep 19 06:08:56 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 07:08:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] flasher unit help
In-Reply-To: <13813DBDC64D4045A164BF1A543178E7@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <7DE0FAE8CBF54DA090FDE2E58B1E14D6@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<26632.88173.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<13813DBDC64D4045A164BF1A543178E7@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <892686.11668.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Oh, not an MGA?  If you want a good answer to this question we need 
to know model and year.


At 08:59 PM 9/18/2011 -0400, davewillner wrote:
>There's nothing in the engine bay... someone said its under the dash 
>on the passenger side, haven't looked yet...I think the unit for a 
>70 is a square unit based on thecatalogs, my TR3 has the round Lucas 
>unit on the firewall near the fuse box and regulator...
>....
>
>From: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg at mgaguru.com>>
>Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 7:04 PM
>>Shound be screwed to the firewall between the fuse box and TS relay 
>>box on the 1500.  See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/pics/wipe02.jpg
>>If it is an aftermarket flasher unit with no screw tab, you might 
>>find it lying behind the heater box.  Look for a short round can 
>>with three wires conncted, Green, Green/browN, and Light 
>>Green.  Some aftermarket flashers have onlt two terminals, in which 
>>case maybe the pilot light does not work.
>>
>>At 01:10 PM 9/18/2011 -0400, Dave Willner (davewillner) wrote:
>>>I've never had to replace the flasher unit before in the MG, but 
>>>the blinkers stopped working today. I did replace the rubber 
>>>gaskets for the front turn signals this morning before the drive 
>>>but didn't play with any wires? The fuses are all good... I would 
>>>have thought it would be near either the relay or the fuse box, 
>>>but I don't see it anywhere.  Can anyone tell where its located?  ....

From kger at plex.com  Mon Sep 19 07:35:00 2011
From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 09:35:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost
Message-ID: <4E774504.30400.1EC521F2@kger.plex.com>

Driving my '79 B around yesterday I noticed that several of the dash gauges quit working 
(tach, fuel, and temperature) as did the turn signals.  I also don't have any wipers, as I found 
out this morning as I headed out in the rain.  I'm assuming a common point of failure, but 
where do I start looking?


-- 
Keith G.
1979 B

From rareisse at cox.net  Mon Sep 19 11:45:58 2011
From: rareisse at cox.net (rareisse at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 13:45:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost
In-Reply-To: <4E774504.30400.1EC521F2@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <20110919134558.2N9BX.1785124.imail@eastrmwml35>

Fuse box!


---- "Keith G." <kger at plex.com> wrote: 
> Driving my '79 B around yesterday I noticed that several of the dash gauges quit working 
> (tach, fuel, and temperature) as did the turn signals.  I also don't have any wipers, as I found 
> out this morning as I headed out in the rain.  I'm assuming a common point of failure, but 
> where do I start looking?
> 
> 
> -- 
> Keith G.
> 1979 B
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rareisse at cox.net

From kger at plex.com  Mon Sep 19 12:24:36 2011
From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 14:24:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost
In-Reply-To: <20110919134558.2N9BX.1785124.imail@eastrmwml35>
References: <4E774504.30400.1EC521F2@kger.plex.com>,
	<20110919134558.2N9BX.1785124.imail@eastrmwml35>
Message-ID: <4E7788E4.6700.1FCE4CEE@kger.plex.com>

On Monday, September 19, 2011 at 13:45, rareisse at cox.net wrote:

> Fuse box!

Of course.  (forehead slap!)  I thought of that after sending the message this morning.  That 
Monday morning brain fog was a little thick today.

Thanks to all those who pointed me to the obvious.  I'll check this out tonight.


-- 
Keith G.
1979 B

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Sep 19 15:26:00 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:26:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: MGA - EARLY Car No. Plate, Original Details
Message-ID: <329520.43532.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Great progress on this quest.  The remaining range in question is 
between 10979 and 11563.  Less than 600 to go.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com



>Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 14:39:53 -0500
>To: mgs at autox.team.net
>From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
>Subject: [Mgs] MGA - EARLY Car No. Plate, Original Details
>....
>
>Please see first two pictures here: 
>http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt107.htm
>Notice the word in lower left corner of the pate may be either 
>"Guarantee" or "Warranty".  I would like to determine when (how 
>early) this change of the plate occurred.
>
>So I am calling on everyone who has an MGA with chassis number 
>between 10225 June 1955) and 36897 (August 1957) AND has the 
>ORIGINAL plate.  Could you check to see if it says "Guarantee" or 
>"Warrantee", and respond if you have one that falls in between the 
>chassis numbers that will appear here? ....

From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Sep 19 15:37:25 2011
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 17:37:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost
In-Reply-To: <4E774504.30400.1EC521F2@kger.plex.com>
References: <4E774504.30400.1EC521F2@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <4E77B615.1020409@snet.net>

Mine did the same thing a couple years ago. Turned out to be the relay 
just forward of the fuse box (under the bonnet).
Mike
'79B

On 9/19/2011 9:35 AM, Keith G. wrote:
> Driving my '79 B around yesterday I noticed that several of the dash gauges quit working
> (tach, fuel, and temperature) as did the turn signals.  I also don't have any wipers, as I found
> out this morning as I headed out in the rain.  I'm assuming a common point of failure, but
> where do I start looking?

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Sep 19 17:21:11 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 18:21:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost
In-Reply-To: <4E774504.30400.1EC521F2@kger.plex.com>
References: <4E774504.30400.1EC521F2@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <70617.20627.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

All of those devices are powered by a fuse that gets power from the 
ignition switch.  Third fuse in the box with White wires feeding it 
and Green wires onteh output side.  Expect a blown fuse or corroded 
fuse contacts.


At 09:35 AM 9/19/2011 -0400, Keith G. wrote:
>Driving my '79 B around yesterday I noticed that several of the dash 
>gauges quit working
>(tach, fuel, and temperature) as did the turn signals.  I also don't 
>have any wipers, as I found out this morning as I headed out in the 
>rain.  I'm assuming a common point of failure, but where do I start looking?
>--
>Keith G.
>1979 B

From batangelias at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 19 20:23:40 2011
From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 10:23:40 +0800 (SGT)
Subject: [Mgs] Car Crazy in the Philippines
In-Reply-To: <4E7788E4.6700.1FCE4CEE@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <1316485420.87554.YahooMailClassic@web78207.mail.sg1.yahoo.com>

Hi All,

 It has been a while. I just want to share what has been happening on this
side of the world.

http://youtu.be/GEp36HwnNcs

A lovely MGTC was given attention and my MGB (non participating) was given its
1 - 2 seconds of fame early on the show.

I hope you like it.

Martin

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Mon Sep 19 21:09:30 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 22:09:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost
Message-ID: <4E7803EA.5000504@comcast.net>

I'm only going from my '67 and '69 cars but whenever that particular 
combination shows up on the DL, my first suspect is the voltage 
stabilizer. I don't recall if your car has one, but if it does, all of 
those suspects should go through it or at least do a touch and go. If 
it's in your car it will be on the bulkhead just above and to the right 
of the point where the steering column goes through the firewall. I 
think the gauges are powered through it and everything else uses the 
input tab as a jumper. I could be wrong. Moss sells new solid state 
ones. I've had them fail over a year or two and I've had them last for a 
long time. YMMV.

Glenn

> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost Message-ID: 
> <20110919134558.2N9BX.1785124.imail at eastrmwml35> Content-Type: 
> text/plain; charset=utf-8 Fuse box! ---- "Keith G." <kger at plex.com> 
> wrote:
>> Driving my '79 B around yesterday I noticed that several of the dash gauges quit working
>> (tach, fuel, and temperature) as did the turn signals.  I also don't have any wipers, as I found
>> out this morning as I headed out in the rain.  I'm assuming a common point of failure, but
>> where do I start looking?
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Keith G.
>> 1979 B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 20 01:51:21 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 08:51:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Dash electrics lost
References: <4E7803EA.5000504@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B7E4C1A815614836A9AF35007878FEBE@paul>

The instrument voltage stabiliser only feeds fuel and (electric) temp 
gauges, not tach, wipers etc.  On a 79 the relay feeds the ignition and the 
cooling fans, so if those stop as well it is almost certainly the relay, if 
they are working then almost certainly the green-circuit fuse, its holders 
or connections.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'm only going from my '67 and '69 cars but whenever that particular 
> combination shows up on the DL, my first suspect is the voltage 
> stabilizer. 

From reno.man at rogers.com  Tue Sep 20 06:14:07 2011
From: reno.man at rogers.com (Mike L)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 05:14:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Car Crazy in the Philippines
In-Reply-To: <1316485420.87554.YahooMailClassic@web78207.mail.sg1.yahoo.com>
References: <4E7788E4.6700.1FCE4CEE@kger.plex.com>
	<1316485420.87554.YahooMailClassic@web78207.mail.sg1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1316520847.53663.YahooMailNeo@web88609.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Great video, fantastic cross section. Using fast forward I got through it in 15 minutes.

Mike



________________________________

Hi All,

It has been a while. I just want to share what has been happening on this
side of the world.

http://youtu.be/GEp36HwnNcs

A lovely MGTC was given attention and my MGB (non participating) was given its
1 - 2 seconds of fame early on the show.

I hope you like it.

Martin

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Tue Sep 20 19:31:43 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 21:31:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Starter Motor Color
Message-ID: <8CE46155A887841-DC8-53998@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com>

 Some may recall my question about the starter motor in my MGA that ran slow
after running the car for a while.  Thanks to the many who offered suggestions
as to where the fault might reside.  I took to motor to Jerry Felper of
British Auto Electric.  Jerry identified  several issues that needed to be
corrected on my lazy motor and he rebuilt it to a very high standard.  Now I'm
wondering if I should paint the motor dark burgundy to match the engine or
leave it black as delivered.  Does anyone know what was originally done at the
factory?

Bill Wilkman
1960 MGA
In family since new.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Sep 21 01:33:57 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 02:33:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Starter Motor Color
In-Reply-To: <8CE46155A887841-DC8-53998@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE46155A887841-DC8-53998@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <722752.86236.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Originally red, but all replacement units are black because they are 
used in may different applications.  Therefore black is period 
correct for replacement parts, perfectly fuunctional as is.  If 
youi're going for a concoursd show car, then make it red.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 09:31 PM 9/20/2011 -0400, wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
>.... about the starter motor in my MGA that ran slow .... I took to 
>motor to Jerry Felper of British Auto Electric.  Jerry 
>identified  several issues that needed to be corrected on my lazy 
>motor and he rebuilt it to a very high standard.  Now I'm wondering 
>if I should paint the motor dark burgundy to match the engine or 
>leave it black as delivered.  Does anyone know what was originally 
>done at the factory?
>....

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep 23 01:54:11 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 08:54:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] cooling fan
Message-ID: <B6E99BEB267D4E208AB5621D2FF680EB@paul>

I've received an email from Bancroft at njsongzigs.com or someone purporting to
be them with the above subject, nothing in the body of the message, and an
attachment.

I am not going to open the attachment or reply unless I get more information.

PaulH.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Sep 23 04:57:26 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 05:57:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] cooling fan
In-Reply-To: <B6E99BEB267D4E208AB5621D2FF680EB@paul>
References: <B6E99BEB267D4E208AB5621D2FF680EB@paul>
Message-ID: <126505.10768.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good move, don't open the attachment.  My mail filter tossed YOUR 
message into the spam bucket just from memntion of the domain 
name.  Neer open an attachment if you don't know who it's from and 
what it is.  Chances are pretty good it will contain a virus or an 
executable program to do you in.

Whois says the domain name belongs to a trading company in Japan.  I 
get messages like that a lot, usually asking if I can supply them 
with car parts.  The messages are always vague, asking what parts I 
can supply and asking for my web site address, and if a credit cars 
payment is acceptable.  It is a phishing scheme, ultimately intended 
to scam you if you respond and play along.


At 08:54 AM 9/23/2011 +0100, Paul Hunt wrote:
>I've received an email from Bancroft at njsongzigs.com or someone purporting to
>be them with the above subject, nothing in the body of the message, and an
>attachment.
>
>I am not going to open the attachment or reply unless I get more information.
>....

From dwillner at ptd.net  Fri Sep 23 14:32:38 2011
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 16:32:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed
Message-ID: <DBEBEA31B2CE40AD94168C4114E3B1E3@valued9cfc0b6f>

I replaced the original rubber gaskets for the front blinkers last week on the
MGB and both the blinkers/hazards stopped. I received a new flasher unit (they
sent me the wrong one...), I have the 2 plug connector unit under the dash
against the firewall. I took off the lenses and they started working about 1/2
speed, but the hazards will not work at all. Do I have a bad flasher unit, or
are the two front units maybe not grounding to the body as well as they
should?  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Fri Sep 23 18:11:33 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 20:11:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Moss rocker arms
Message-ID: <4e7d2036.46c3e00a.3568.fffff299@mx.google.com>

Does anyone know if the Moss rocker arms for an MGB come with the bushing
reamed to the correct size?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Sep 23 18:11:16 2011
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 19:11:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed
In-Reply-To: <DBEBEA31B2CE40AD94168C4114E3B1E3@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <DBEBEA31B2CE40AD94168C4114E3B1E3@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <18BD2F85-2AE2-4AE5-AC47-3E98F64D4920@gmail.com>

I'd bet on the ground.

On Sep 23, 2011, at 3:32 PM, davewillner wrote:

> I replaced the original rubber gaskets for the front blinkers last week on
the
> MGB and both the blinkers/hazards stopped. I received a new flasher unit
(they
> sent me the wrong one...), I have the 2 plug connector unit under the dash
> against the firewall. I took off the lenses and they started working about
1/2
> speed, but the hazards will not work at all. Do I have a bad flasher unit,
or
> are the two front units maybe not grounding to the body as well as they
> should?  Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Sat Sep 24 14:29:49 2011
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:29:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1316887202.27335.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1316887202.27335.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8C6AE802-F928-4A13-8527-C977FCA612F7@mgcarclub.com>

My '71 MGB has two flasher units, one for the turn signals and one for  
the hazard flashers. I think one of them is mounted behind the  
vertical part of the console. Don't know if the 70 is the same.

On Sep 24, 2011, at 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>  [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed
>
>
> I replaced the original rubber gaskets for the front blinkers last  
> week on the
> MGB and both the blinkers/hazards stopped. I received a new flasher  
> unit (they
> sent me the wrong one...), I have the 2 plug connector unit under  
> the dash
> against the firewall. I took off the lenses and they started working  
> about 1/2
> speed, but the hazards will not work at all. Do I have a bad flasher  
> unit, or
> are the two front units maybe not grounding to the body as well as  
> they
> should?  Thanks

From riverside at southslope.net  Sat Sep 24 18:34:21 2011
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 19:34:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss rocker arms
In-Reply-To: <4e7d2036.46c3e00a.3568.fffff299@mx.google.com>
References: <4e7d2036.46c3e00a.3568.fffff299@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <3BD4D7FD8C3C42E2AFAC81440278FBCE@rileyPC>

no,you have to ream them

Ron Sanborn
-----Original Message----- 
From: Peter Schauss
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2011 7:11 PM
To: Mgs-Digest
Subject: [Mgs] Moss rocker arms

Does anyone know if the Moss rocker arms for an MGB come with the bushing
reamed to the correct size?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3915 - Release Date: 09/23/11 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 26 02:04:14 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 09:04:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed
References: <DBEBEA31B2CE40AD94168C4114E3B1E3@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <02918190D28D45EDA650539204D6A6D9@paul>

Two problems.

The hazards use a different flasher unit to the turn signals, and should 
work normally i.e. flash at the correct speed as long as there is at least 
one connected bulb.  If any bulbs even light with the turn signals, but 
nothing happens when you turn the hazards on, then you need to check the 
hazard circuit from the in-line fuse (brown both sides) through the hazard 
flasher to the hazard switch.  The switch when on connects four terminals 
together - light-green/brown from the flasher unit, green/white and 
green/red to the corners of the car, and a fourth wire to a repeater lamp on 
the console if you have one.  As the corners light with the turn signals the 
problem must be before where the green/white and green/red from the hazard 
switch join the same coloured wires from the turn switch near the column.

As far as the turn signals go one thing you did not say before was whether 
they lit up but didn't flash, or didn't light at all, or whether just the 
backs lit and the fronts not at all.  New flasher units usually respond 
better for a few weeks until they 'burn in', so that could well explain why 
they are working at half-speed now whereas they didn't flash before, and the 
problem is bad connections probably at the front lamp units which is what 
you had off when the problem started.  However that would need both sides to 
have pretty-well exactly the same level of bad connection - possible but 
unlikely.  Alternatively it could be a common fault somewhere in the green - 
hazard switch - turn flasher - turn switch circuit.  The thing to do here is 
plot the voltage with respect to earth at each of those point and see if you 
get a noticeable reduction in voltage from one to the next, which will 
indicate a bad connection between the two.  You can extend this test through 
the bullet connectors in the green/white and green/red near the fusebox, and 
at each corner of the car, and into the light units.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "davewillner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2011 9:32 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed


>I replaced the original rubber gaskets for the front blinkers last week on 
>the
> MGB and both the blinkers/hazards stopped. I received a new flasher unit 
> (they
> sent me the wrong one...), I have the 2 plug connector unit under the dash
> against the firewall. I took off the lenses and they started working about 
> 1/2
> speed, but the hazards will not work at all. Do I have a bad flasher unit, 
> or
> are the two front units maybe not grounding to the body as well as they
> should?  Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Sep 26 14:55:08 2011
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 22:55:08 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed
References: <DBEBEA31B2CE40AD94168C4114E3B1E3@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<02918190D28D45EDA650539204D6A6D9@paul>
Message-ID: <4728E3C5FBBE4689A67C79624C228B85@uw471de61b465c>

Another point to look at is the hazard and blinker circuit are connected 
centrally at the hazard circuit.
My USA spec 71 BGT sometimes does not want to blink or almost.
Then flicking the hazard switch on/off several times will clean the contacts 
again and it all works for some time.

This trick works for over 11 years now very well.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "davewillner" <dwillner at ptd.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed


> Two problems.
>
> The hazards use a different flasher unit to the turn signals, and should 
> work normally i.e. flash at the correct speed as long as there is at least 
> one connected bulb.  If any bulbs even light with the turn signals, but 
> nothing happens when you turn the hazards on, then you need to check the 
> hazard circuit from the in-line fuse (brown both sides) through the hazard 
> flasher to the hazard switch.  The switch when on connects four terminals 
> together - light-green/brown from the flasher unit, green/white and 
> green/red to the corners of the car, and a fourth wire to a repeater lamp 
> on the console if you have one.  As the corners light with the turn 
> signals the problem must be before where the green/white and green/red 
> from the hazard switch join the same coloured wires from the turn switch 
> near the column.
>
> As far as the turn signals go one thing you did not say before was whether 
> they lit up but didn't flash, or didn't light at all, or whether just the 
> backs lit and the fronts not at all.  New flasher units usually respond 
> better for a few weeks until they 'burn in', so that could well explain 
> why they are working at half-speed now whereas they didn't flash before, 
> and the problem is bad connections probably at the front lamp units which 
> is what you had off when the problem started.  However that would need 
> both sides to have pretty-well exactly the same level of bad connection - 
> possible but unlikely.  Alternatively it could be a common fault somewhere 
> in the green - hazard switch - turn flasher - turn switch circuit.  The 
> thing to do here is plot the voltage with respect to earth at each of 
> those point and see if you get a noticeable reduction in voltage from one 
> to the next, which will indicate a bad connection between the two.  You 
> can extend this test through the bullet connectors in the green/white and 
> green/red near the fusebox, and at each corner of the car, and into the 
> light units.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "davewillner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 23, 2011 9:32 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Hazard blinkers at half speed
>
>
>>I replaced the original rubber gaskets for the front blinkers last week on 
>>the
>> MGB and both the blinkers/hazards stopped. I received a new flasher unit 
>> (they
>> sent me the wrong one...), I have the 2 plug connector unit under the 
>> dash
>> against the firewall. I took off the lenses and they started working 
>> about 1/2
>> speed, but the hazards will not work at all. Do I have a bad flasher 
>> unit, or
>> are the two front units maybe not grounding to the body as well as they
>> should?  Thanks
>>
>> Dave Willner
>> Stroudsburg PA
>> 59 TR3A
>> 70 MGB
>> 70 BSA 441 VS
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl 

From jevans at mydb3.com  Tue Sep 27 18:41:38 2011
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 19:41:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
Message-ID: <1515.108.64.36.238.1317170498.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>

Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
 Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like
me as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
the mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones
are special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs,
retainers, etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that
matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would
be highly appreciated.
Jim Evans, Chicago

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Tue Sep 27 19:33:39 2011
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (mgmagnette at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 21:33:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?
Message-ID: <8CE4B95C8D414A1-1424-21211@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>

Anyone ever seen a source for Whitworth flare nut wrenches?  Regular whitworth
wrenches are all over ebay, but not flare nut wrenches.  Thinking perhaps the
brits have another word for flare nut wrench and that's why I can't find them?
I have an old XJS that has Whitworth brass compression fittings in the fuel
system.  The brass nut rounds off before the ferrule has a chance to deform
the tube.  I've elminated most of these stupid compression fittings, but there
are two into the gas tank that cannot be removed without welding the tank.

-John

From lundgren at byu.net  Tue Sep 27 20:30:34 2011
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 20:30:34 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
In-Reply-To: <1515.108.64.36.238.1317170498.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>
References: <1515.108.64.36.238.1317170498.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>
Message-ID: <7edeacd1-f282-4077-adc0-3007cc79341f@blur>

Price would be because of limited production I expect.

I bought my mild grind from nw import a few years ago. 

--
Andrew Lundgren
lundgren at byu.net

-----Original message-----
From: jevans at mydb3.com
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 28, 2011 02:27:24 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft

Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
 Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like
me as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
the mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones
are special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs,
retainers, etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that
matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would
be highly appreciated.
Jim Evans, Chicago
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net

From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Sep 27 22:49:29 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 21:49:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
In-Reply-To: <1515.108.64.36.238.1317170498.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>
Message-ID: <CAA7F569.34DF8%mvheim@sonic.net>

The cams are bundled with springs because special springs are required for
both high RPM operation and for high lift cam lobes. The retainers are
matched to the springs.

It seems obvious that a "bespoke" cam is going to be more expensive than a
mass-manufactured pattern -- exactly how much more expensive is really a
matter of what the market will bear (and apparently it will bear quite a
lot). But remember, you are paying for the vendor's development costs and
expertise (although in the case of MGB cam grinds one might reasonably
suspect that development reached a plateau several decades ago).

But really, one might ask why you are set upon one of these "performance"
cams, when (if you'll pardon my saying so) you don't seem to know much about
them. I would suspect (or, hope might be a better word) that at least some
of these products might have notably different characteristics. At the very
least, some would be optimized for high rpm operation, others would strive
to increase mid-range torque, and others might focus on low-end grunt.
Without the benefit of variable valve timing technology, you can't expect a
cam to deliver more than one of these improvements -- it's all a big
compromise. It's not like there is some kind of magic formula for cams that
was recently discovered and can improve performance across the board
compared to the original equipment. Anytime you add performance at one end
of the RPM range, you are taking something away elsewhere -- it's all a big
compromise (to be fair, modern dual-pattern cam designs can have some net
benefits -- I'm not sure if this technology has reached LBCs yet).

Unlike the advertising I see for American V8 hot-rod cams, those targeted at
British car owners seem loath to reveal any sort of specs. The first thing
I'd do is try to get a cam card for each of these products, and compare them
on paper. Then I might talk to a knowledgeable engine builder to see which
might suit my intended purposes.

One also has to keep in mind that the engine is a system -- you may not reap
all of your expected performance without upgrading other components
(ignition, valves, weight of rotating assembly). Anyway, lots to think
about...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/27/11 5:41 PM, jevans at mydb3.com at jevans at mydb3.com wrote:

> Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
> of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
> 222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
>  Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like
> me as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
> the mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones
> are special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs,
> retainers, etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that
> matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
> 16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would
> be highly appreciated.
> Jim Evans, Chicago

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 28 01:46:22 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 08:46:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?
References: <8CE4B95C8D414A1-1424-21211@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <A0B3F0C9F2D0475FB23FCF446A368D82@paul>

Flare nut spanner in the UK AFAIK, usually sized as AF, but not many around 
here either.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Anyone ever seen a source for Whitworth flare nut wrenches?  Regular 
> whitworth
> wrenches are all over ebay, but not flare nut wrenches.  Thinking perhaps 
> the
> brits have another word for flare nut wrench and that's why I can't find 
> them?

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Wed Sep 28 03:24:32 2011
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 10:24:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?
In-Reply-To: <8CE4B95C8D414A1-1424-21211@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE4B95C8D414A1-1424-21211@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <EE600B86C42F4BFC8AFA43A9BEB5ADC9@TomVistaPC>

Hi John, we list these on our website. Please see the following link:

http://www.ccw-tools.com/Draper-Tools/Elora/Elora-Spanners/Elora-Flare-Nut-Spanners/c-1-1856-1857-1863-3826/

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 
Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 
705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 
Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with 
company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <mgmagnette at aol.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 2:33 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?


> Anyone ever seen a source for Whitworth flare nut wrenches?  Regular 
> whitworth
> wrenches are all over ebay, but not flare nut wrenches.  Thinking perhaps 
> the
> brits have another word for flare nut wrench and that's why I can't find 
> them?
> I have an old XJS that has Whitworth brass compression fittings in the 
> fuel
> system.  The brass nut rounds off before the ferrule has a chance to 
> deform
> the tube.  I've elminated most of these stupid compression fittings, but 
> there
> are two into the gas tank that cannot be removed without welding the tank.
>
> -John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk 

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Wed Sep 28 06:57:40 2011
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 8:57:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAA7F569.34DF8%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <20110928125740.DXZTI.2459.root@cdptpa-web24-z02>

Hey folks, esp Max;  I really don't know what it is but I want one, or do I require 2 for best performance.....Mel 71mgbGT  (every other day driver quality)

---- Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote: 
> The cams are bundled with springs because special springs are required for
> both high RPM operation and for high lift cam lobes. The retainers are
> matched to the springs.
> 
> It seems obvious that a "bespoke" cam is going to be more expensive than a
> mass-manufactured pattern -- exactly how much more expensive is really a
> matter of what the market will bear (and apparently it will bear quite a
> lot). But remember, you are paying for the vendor's development costs and
> expertise (although in the case of MGB cam grinds one might reasonably
> suspect that development reached a plateau several decades ago).
> 
> But really, one might ask why you are set upon one of these "performance"
> cams, when (if you'll pardon my saying so) you don't seem to know much about
> them. I would suspect (or, hope might be a better word) that at least some
> of these products might have notably different characteristics. At the very
> least, some would be optimized for high rpm operation, others would strive
> to increase mid-range torque, and others might focus on low-end grunt.
> Without the benefit of variable valve timing technology, you can't expect a
> cam to deliver more than one of these improvements -- it's all a big
> compromise. It's not like there is some kind of magic formula for cams that
> was recently discovered and can improve performance across the board
> compared to the original equipment. Anytime you add performance at one end
> of the RPM range, you are taking something away elsewhere -- it's all a big
> compromise (to be fair, modern dual-pattern cam designs can have some net
> benefits -- I'm not sure if this technology has reached LBCs yet).
> 
> Unlike the advertising I see for American V8 hot-rod cams, those targeted at
> British car owners seem loath to reveal any sort of specs. The first thing
> I'd do is try to get a cam card for each of these products, and compare them
> on paper. Then I might talk to a knowledgeable engine builder to see which
> might suit my intended purposes.
> 
> One also has to keep in mind that the engine is a system -- you may not reap
> all of your expected performance without upgrading other components
> (ignition, valves, weight of rotating assembly). Anyway, lots to think
> about...
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 9/27/11 5:41 PM, jevans at mydb3.com at jevans at mydb3.com wrote:
> 
> > Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
> > of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
> > 222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
> >  Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like
> > me as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
> > the mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones
> > are special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs,
> > retainers, etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that
> > matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
> > 16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would
> > be highly appreciated.
> > Jim Evans, Chicago
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/melfrankus at carolina.rr.com

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Sep 28 08:04:51 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 10:04:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?
In-Reply-To: <8CE4B95C8D414A1-1424-21211@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE4B95C8D414A1-1424-21211@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1R8umq-0007Qs-0U@gamma.look.ca>

John,

I have been acquiring BSF/Whitworth taps & spanners/wrenches and di 
several searches on the 'net.  There are many suppliers in the UK and 
a few in the States.  I suppose what I am saying is keep looking 
using Google or preferably by Copernic (a much better search engine !)


At 09:33 PM 9/27/2011, mgmagnette at aol.com wrote:
>Anyone ever seen a source for Whitworth flare nut wrenches?  Regular whitworth
>wrenches are all over ebay, but not flare nut wrenches.  Thinking perhaps the
>brits have another word for flare nut wrench and that's why I can't find them?
>I have an old XJS that has Whitworth brass compression fittings in the fuel
>system.  The brass nut rounds off before the ferrule has a chance to deform
>the tube.  I've elminated most of these stupid compression fittings, but there
>are two into the gas tank that cannot be removed without welding the tank.
>
>-John
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Sep 28 07:34:36 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:34:36 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
Message-ID: <20110928.093436.11820.5@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

  Review   How to Power Tune MGB 4-Cylinder Engines, by Peter Burgess, before
buying the camshaft.
  His business is power-tuning, and he considers the stock MGB camshaft to be
a good design for most needs.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: jevans at mydb3.com
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 19:41:38 -0500 (CDT)

Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
 Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like
me as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
the mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones
are special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs,
retainers, etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that
matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would
be highly appreciated.
Jim Evans, Chicago
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From Lister at Bonackers.com  Wed Sep 28 10:35:41 2011
From: Lister at Bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 11:35:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?
Message-ID: <027b01cc7dfc$aeed2730$0cc77590$@Bonackers.com>

Go here:

http://www.team.net/sol/

and select Parts & Services

in the B's - British Cycle Supply Company?

There are also other materials here -

http://www.team.net/www/archives.html

Scott Bonacker 
Rogersville, MO


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mgmagnette at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:34 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?

Anyone ever seen a source for Whitworth flare nut wrenches?  Regular
whitworth wrenches are all over ebay, but not flare nut wrenches.  Thinking
perhaps the brits have another word for flare nut wrench and that's why I
can't find them?
I have an old XJS that has Whitworth brass compression fittings in the fuel
system.  The brass nut rounds off before the ferrule has a chance to deform
the tube.  I've elminated most of these stupid compression fittings, but
there are two into the gas tank that cannot be removed without welding the
tank.

-John
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs at bonacker.us

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Sep 28 11:30:22 2011
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:30:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
In-Reply-To: <mailman.168.1317223396.19533.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.168.1317223396.19533.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8246582D789A444B92707740F3C6AF9C@EricJRussellPC>

> My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack of a camshaft.

Have you tried Brit Tek? http://www.brittek.com/


> ...why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
> the mild performance grind units are over $400?

> And, for that matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice 
> the cost of a 16 lobe American V8 unit?

Google "Supply & Demand"

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From Lister at Bonackers.com  Wed Sep 28 10:35:41 2011
From: Lister at Bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 11:35:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
Message-ID: <027a01cc7dfc$ad4a2590$07de70b0$@Bonackers.com>

Jim,

There is a book  you might like to have - 

"How to Power Tune the MGB 4 Cylinder Engines for Road & Track"
Peter Burgess

www.velocebooks.com
www.veloce.co.uk

Table of Contents -

1 ENGINE
2 WHAT IS HORSEPOWER?
3 THE ENGINE TUNING 'TOP TEN'
4 POWER RECIPES
5 CYLINDER HEADS
6 THE BOTTOM END
7 CAMSHAFTS
8 CARBURATION
9 THE IGNITION SYSTEM
10 THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
11 ENGINE LUBRICATION & COOLING
12 TRANSMISSION
13 SUSPENSION, BRAKES & TYRES
14 SETTING UP & ROLLING ROAD

Scott Bonacker
Rogersville, MO

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jevans at mydb3.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 7:42 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft

Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
 Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like me
as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while the
mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones are
special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs, retainers,
etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that matter, why is
an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would be
highly appreciated.
Jim Evans, Chicago
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs at bonacker.us

From Lister at Bonackers.com  Wed Sep 28 11:37:04 2011
From: Lister at Bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:37:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?
Message-ID: <02c401cc7e05$3eec1fa0$bcc45ee0$@Bonackers.com>

Go here:

http://www.team.net/sol/

and select Parts & Services

in the B's - British Cycle Supply Company?

There are also other materials here -

http://www.team.net/www/archives.html

Scott Bonacker 
Rogersville, MO


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mgmagnette at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:34 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Whitworth Flare Nut Wrench?

Anyone ever seen a source for Whitworth flare nut wrenches?  Regular
whitworth wrenches are all over ebay, but not flare nut wrenches.  Thinking
perhaps the brits have another word for flare nut wrench and that's why I
can't find them?
I have an old XJS that has Whitworth brass compression fittings in the fuel
system.  The brass nut rounds off before the ferrule has a chance to deform
the tube.  I've elminated most of these stupid compression fittings, but
there are two into the gas tank that cannot be removed without welding the
tank.

-John
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs at bonacker.us

From Lister at Bonackers.com  Wed Sep 28 11:37:04 2011
From: Lister at Bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:37:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
Message-ID: <02c301cc7e05$3df47930$b9dd6b90$@Bonackers.com>

Jim,

There is a book  you might like to have - 

"How to Power Tune the MGB 4 Cylinder Engines for Road & Track"
Peter Burgess

www.velocebooks.com
www.veloce.co.uk

Table of Contents -

1 ENGINE
2 WHAT IS HORSEPOWER?
3 THE ENGINE TUNING 'TOP TEN'
4 POWER RECIPES
5 CYLINDER HEADS
6 THE BOTTOM END
7 CAMSHAFTS
8 CARBURATION
9 THE IGNITION SYSTEM
10 THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
11 ENGINE LUBRICATION & COOLING
12 TRANSMISSION
13 SUSPENSION, BRAKES & TYRES
14 SETTING UP & ROLLING ROAD

Scott Bonacker
Rogersville, MO

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jevans at mydb3.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 7:42 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft

Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
 Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like me
as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while the
mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones are
special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs, retainers,
etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that matter, why is
an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would be
highly appreciated.
Jim Evans, Chicago
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs at bonacker.us

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 28 14:41:56 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:41:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
Message-ID: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net>

Hmm, my temperature gauge gave up this morning. I'm pretty sure it was
working when the motor first was warming up, but 10 miles down the road it
was sitting on the baseline and refused to budge.

As this is a 66, I am guessing the immensely long tube finally cracked. Is
there anything that can be done about this? I'm not seeing this listed as a
replacement part, only the entire double gauge for big $$$.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep 28 16:20:21 2011
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:20:21 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35767F46@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

Most likely, you can have it repaired for maybe $100 or so. I had MoMa fix one
for me many years ago due to problems with the temperature readings. Contact
Margaret Lucas (505) 766-6661 and ask.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Max Heim
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 2:42 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender

Hmm, my temperature gauge gave up this morning. I'm pretty sure it was working
when the motor first was warming up, but 10 miles down the road it was sitting
on the baseline and refused to budge.

As this is a 66, I am guessing the immensely long tube finally cracked. Is
there anything that can be done about this? I'm not seeing this listed as a
replacement part, only the entire double gauge for big $$$.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 28 18:47:09 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:47:09 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <8B586483-59C7-4628-903B-6BA63F962FBA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAA90E1D.34E6A%mvheim@sonic.net>

Thanks for all the suggestions. I emailed a couple of vendors to get an idea
of pricing. Calls will have to wait for tomorrow.

Oh, I looked under the bonnet -- the tube broke off right at the cylinder
head.

BTW, does anyone know the original routing of the capillary tube? When I got
this car, it was running along the side of the valve cover, not really
anchored to anything. I have tried a couple of routes as things were removed
and replaced (distributor, heater valve, alternator), trying to keep it out
of trouble. I think the recent alternator replacement might have killed it,
since I had to kind of bend it out of the way.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/28/11 5:24 PM, Larry Swift at lawrence.swift at gmail.com wrote:

> Try Morris Mintz; West Valley Instruments; excellent work
> 
> Sent from my iPod
> 
> On Sep 28, 2011, at 6:20 PM, "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
> wrote:
> 
>> Most likely, you can have it repaired for maybe $100 or so. I had MoMa fix
>> one
>> for me many years ago due to problems with the temperature readings. Contact
>> Margaret Lucas (505) 766-6661 and ask.
>> 
>> David Councill
>> 64 B
>> 67 BGT
>> 72 B
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf
>> Of Max Heim
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 2:42 PM
>> To: MG List
>> Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
>> 
>> Hmm, my temperature gauge gave up this morning. I'm pretty sure it was
>> working
>> when the motor first was warming up, but 10 miles down the road it was
>> sitting
>> on the baseline and refused to budge.
>> 
>> As this is a 66, I am guessing the immensely long tube finally cracked. Is
>> there anything that can be done about this? I'm not seeing this listed as a
>> replacement part, only the entire double gauge for big $$$.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Sep 28 19:51:13 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 20:51:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <586572.35458.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt102a.htm
and here: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge


At 01:41 PM 9/28/2011 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>Hmm, my temperature gauge gave up this morning. ....
>
>As this is a 66, I am guessing the immensely long tube finally 
>cracked.  Is there anything that can be done about this?  I'm not 
>seeing this listed as a replacement part, only the entire double 
>gauge for big $$$.

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep 28 20:45:19 2011
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 02:45:19 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <8B586483-59C7-4628-903B-6BA63F962FBA@gmail.com>
References: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35767F46@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
	<8B586483-59C7-4628-903B-6BA63F962FBA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35768223@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

Maybe I shouldn't have responded. About an hour later, I was driving my 64B
home when my tach went out of control, maxing out while making a serious
whine. A few minutes later, it died. It's a Jaegar mechanical tach. Maybe I'll
try this West Valley Instruments.

Fortunately, I have a spare tach which I just put in a half hour ago and a
quick test shows it is working. For how long, it is yet to be seen. Its old,
corroded, and the rubber has hardened. Maybe enough to get me through
convertible season. Still have to assemble the top too.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Swift [mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 6:25 PM
To: Councill, David
Cc: Max Heim; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Temperature sender

Try Morris Mintz; West Valley Instruments; excellent work

Sent from my iPod

On Sep 28, 2011, at 6:20 PM, "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
wrote:

> Most likely, you can have it repaired for maybe $100 or so. I had MoMa
> fix one for me many years ago due to problems with the temperature
> readings. Contact Margaret Lucas (505) 766-6661 and ask.
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Sep 28 20:58:05 2011
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 21:58:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
In-Reply-To: <8246582D789A444B92707740F3C6AF9C@EricJRussellPC>
References: <mailman.168.1317223396.19533.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8246582D789A444B92707740F3C6AF9C@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <4E83DEBD.6030800@gmail.com>

On 9/28/2011 12:30 PM, Eric J Russell wrote:
>> My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack of a 
>> camshaft.
>
> Have you tried Brit Tek? http://www.brittek.com/
>
>
>> ...why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
>> the mild performance grind units are over $400?
>
>> And, for that matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over 
>> twice the cost of a 16 lobe American V8 unit?
>
> Google "Supply & Demand"

I am exceptionally pleased with APT cams. I have the 286 "scatter" cam 
in the Cooper S. If I wanted to go for performance in the MGB engine, 
I would get the proper APT cam for the engine.

> -Rocky Frisco -- 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Sep 28 22:03:27 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 23:03:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <CAA90E1D.34E6A%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <8B586483-59C7-4628-903B-6BA63F962FBA@gmail.com>
	<CAA90E1D.34E6A%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <408123.60125.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Originally it ran an along the head gasket edge with a P-clip on the 
heater valve top stud, then a 360d vertical loop (or two for flexing) 
followed by another P-clip on the heater shelf as strain 
relief.  Then it went through a big grommet in the firewall followrd 
by another P-clip on the back side of the firewall, and excess length 
was coiled up there between the clip and the gauge.

Since I drive a lot and do a fair amount of service on the engine, I 
take a different route with the tube.  I go straight sideways with a 
vertical loop (for flexing), then a P-clip on the inner fender with a 
bit of rubber of tape for scuff resistance.  I also tie wrap the 
vertical loop to the top radiator hose for additional strain relief, 
and to keep the tube away from the generator (or alternator in my 
case).  Then run along the inner fender just below the 4" heater air 
hose, generally out of harm's way, with a P-clip on the heater shelf 
for more strain relief.  Then through a large grommet in the 
firewall, followed by another P-clip (when I can rememebr it) on the 
rear side of the firewall, then multiple loops for the excess length 
before attaching to the gauge.

In spite of sometimes forgetting the clip behind the firewall I have 
never known a tube to break there.  Most commeon break point is 
between engine and body due to flexing without a loop, or missing 
P-clips.  With routing along the inner fender, when need to R&R the 
cylinder head or whole engine, I cut the tie wrap on the radiator 
hose, disconnect sensor from head, and tuck the sensor out of harm's 
way back against the fender below the 4" air duct.  Haven't had a 
broken tube since following this scheme.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with n attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 05:47 PM 9/28/2011 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>....
>BTW, does anyone know the original routing of the capillary tube? ....

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Sep 28 22:10:06 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 21:10:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <586572.35458.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAA93DAE.34E7B%mvheim@sonic.net>

Very interesting, but based on available evidence I am the world's worst
solderer, so I think I'll have to leave this to a professional. Unless
someone is volunteering...

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/28/11 6:51 PM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg at mgaguru.com wrote:

> See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt102a.htm
> and here: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
> 
> 
> At 01:41 PM 9/28/2011 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>> Hmm, my temperature gauge gave up this morning. ....
>> 
>> As this is a 66, I am guessing the immensely long tube finally
>> cracked.  Is there anything that can be done about this?  I'm not
>> seeing this listed as a replacement part, only the entire double
>> gauge for big $$$.

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Sep 28 23:51:57 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 00:51:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35768223@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
References: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35767F46@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
	<8B586483-59C7-4628-903B-6BA63F962FBA@gmail.com>
	<E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35768223@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <4E84077D.2070206@justbrits.com>

<< Maybe I shouldn't have responded. >>

And you 'know'  better, David ! ! !
 
<< About an hour later, I was driving my 64B.... >>

Enjoying yourself, I'll wager <G> ! ! ! !
AND *you* have a side-Benefit ! !   Which time of year would
you rather change that thing out in ?!?  NOW or a few months
from now <VBEG> ! ! !

<< Maybe I'll try this West Valley Instruments. >>

IMHO, you WILL be quite happy ! ! ! !

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From lrc at red4est.com  Thu Sep 29 01:28:34 2011
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 00:28:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] seeking a camshaft
In-Reply-To: <1515.108.64.36.238.1317170498.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>
References: <1515.108.64.36.238.1317170498.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>
Message-ID: <4E841E22.9090506@red4est.com>

I've got, IIRC an Elgin "RV" or "cheater grind" cam gathering dust in my 
parts department.  As I recall it was something along the lines of stock 
lift and duration, but a bit steeper attack so it flowed just a little 
better than stock.  I was seeing 75 HP to the ground in my BGT with it.  
The new incarnation of the motor, waiting to go into the car has a 
special grind to go with the supercharger.

On 9/27/2011 5:41 PM, jevans at mydb3.com wrote:
> Listers - Help!  My engine rebuild project (1977 MGB) has stalled for lack
> of a camshaft.  Anyone out there with an unused:  Crane 342-0010, Moss
> 222-270, Kent 714, Piper BBP270, or APT VP11 - please contact me off list.
>   Also, I wonder if any of the gurus on this list can educate a dumbo like
> me as to why a new stock grind MGB camshaft retails for under $200 while
> the mild performance grind units are over $400?  Maybe the grinding stones
> are special for these units?  And why are they bundled with springs,
> retainers, etc which are not demanded for stock grinds?  And, for that
> matter, why is an 8 lobe MGB camshaft priced at over twice the cost of a
> 16 lobe American V8 unit?  Any sensible answers to these questions would
> be highly appreciated.
> Jim Evans, Chicago
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com


-- 
Larry Colen LRC at red4est.com (from dos4est)

From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Sep 29 01:36:12 2011
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 02:36:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Instrument repair
In-Reply-To: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35768223@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
References: <CAA8D4A4.34E3C%mvheim@sonic.net><E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35767F46@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu><8B586483-59C7-4628-903B-6BA63F962FBA@gmail.com>
	<E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35768223@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <F1D09E89680349D4B9E109B5F019D361@rileyPC>

Nisonger Instrument Repair specializes in Smiths and Jaeger. Excellent 
work,reasonable price.
I have had 30 or 40 instruments repaired by them and any complaint (very 
few) that I had was promptly
corrected.
Ron Sanborn


-----Original Message----- 
From: Councill, David
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 9:45 PM
To: Larry Swift
Cc: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Temperature sender

Maybe I shouldn't have responded. About an hour later, I was driving my 64B
home when my tach went out of control, maxing out while making a serious
whine. A few minutes later, it died. It's a Jaegar mechanical tach. Maybe 
I'll
try this West Valley Instruments.

Fortunately, I have a spare tach which I just put in a half hour ago and a
quick test shows it is working. For how long, it is yet to be seen. Its old,
corroded, and the rubber has hardened. Maybe enough to get me through
convertible season. Still have to assemble the top too.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Swift [mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 6:25 PM
To: Councill, David
Cc: Max Heim; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Temperature sender

Try Morris Mintz; West Valley Instruments; excellent work

Sent from my iPod

On Sep 28, 2011, at 6:20 PM, "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
wrote:

> Most likely, you can have it repaired for maybe $100 or so. I had MoMa
> fix one for me many years ago due to problems with the temperature
> readings. Contact Margaret Lucas (505) 766-6661 and ask.
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 06:46:26 2011
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 07:46:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <CAA93DAE.34E7B%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CAA93DAE.34E7B%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <DE923D0F-E58B-420C-96E4-45BE886F90E7@gmail.com>

Max,
	I'll have to challenge you for that. I've been known as 'cold solder joint
Paul' since 1985.

	Drove my car for the first time in 2-3 weeks, to work today. Top up, but it
will go down on the way home. Felt a little guilty with the top up, since it's
a nice 60F out there right now.

	Good luck on the tube.

Paul.


On Sep 28, 2011, at 11:10 PM, Max Heim wrote:

> Very interesting, but based on available evidence I am the world's worst
> solderer, so I think I'll have to leave this to a professional. Unless
> someone is volunteering...
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 9/28/11 6:51 PM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg at mgaguru.com wrote:
>
>> See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt102a.htm
>> and here: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
>>
>>
>> At 01:41 PM 9/28/2011 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>>> Hmm, my temperature gauge gave up this morning. ....
>>>
>>> As this is a 66, I am guessing the immensely long tube finally
>>> cracked.  Is there anything that can be done about this?  I'm not
>>> seeing this listed as a replacement part, only the entire double
>>> gauge for big $$$.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep 29 11:47:12 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 12:47:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <408123.60125.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <8B586483-59C7-4628-903B-6BA63F962FBA@gmail.com>
	<CAA90E1D.34E6A%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<408123.60125.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E84AF20.4090101@justbrits.com>

<< ...then a 360d vertical loop (or two for flexing) ... >>

That is one of the most important steps in re-installing these
instruments and a LOT of folks ignore it, Barney ! ! !

I have seen, over the YEARS,  a goodly number of fractured
'lines' due to those 'loops' being omitted,  done in WRONG
location(s) and/or just plain done wrong ! !

And note that Marque Engineers have the number of 'loops'
and/or location of said 'loops' in a varsity of places ! !
I suppose they learned by error <G>  !?!?!?

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Sep 30 11:24:37 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 10:24:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <4E84AF20.4090101@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <CAAB4965.34EEC%mvheim@sonic.net>

Hmm, mine always had a double horizontal loop, near the cowl. It probably
would have helped to have a second loop near the head end.

I will bear that in mind when installing the new one.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/29/11 10:47 AM, shop at justbrits.com at shop at justbrits.com wrote:

> << ...then a 360d vertical loop (or two for flexing) ... >>
> 
> That is one of the most important steps in re-installing these
> instruments and a LOT of folks ignore it, Barney ! ! !
> 
> I have seen, over the YEARS,  a goodly number of fractured
> 'lines' due to those 'loops' being omitted,  done in WRONG
> location(s) and/or just plain done wrong ! !
> 
> And note that Marque Engineers have the number of 'loops'
> and/or location of said 'loops' in a varsity of places ! !
> I suppose they learned by error <G>  !?!?!?
> 
> Ed
> 1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
> 2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
>     Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
> _______________________________________________

From don at napanet.net  Fri Sep 30 22:32:07 2011
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 21:32:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG car show!
Message-ID: <20111001043215.32C45AE6CA@mail.dsl.napanet.net>

I visited the MG Fall Festival at the Sheraton Hotel in Petaluma 
today.  As usual, I was driving a Japanese vehicle; this time my 
Mazda pickup as I had errands to run to get building supplies to 
prepare for the rainstorms coming next week.  If everyone drove a 
Japanese car to these events they would not quite work.

Anyway, there were some beautiful cars there.  My favourite was the 
red 1962 MGA Mk 2 roadster that belongs to Chrisula Asimos.  She 
bought the car new!  What a vibrant and lively woman she is.  I can't 
imagine what she must have been like back in '62 when she bought that 
car.  The MGA is pretty much original other than a repaint years 
ago.  She said the worst mechanical issue was a blown headgasket on 
the Bay Bridge years ago which led to her having the engine partially 
rebuilt.  The original grey top and sidecurtains with grey vinyl 
still are on the car.  The seats, though worn, are also 
original.  The photo I took of the interior did not come out very 
well.  The one of the car's engine bay shows the patina of the nearly 
50 years of its life.  Chrisula was kind enough to pose in front of 
her MGA for the photo of the exterior of her car.  She was also kind 
enough to laugh at my joke- an MG gal was walking briskly among the 
cars announcing that a pair of bifocals had been found and she was 
seeking their owner.  I commented to Chrisula that the bifocals could 
belong to anyone at the car show.

Andy Preston had two of his four MGs at the show.  His red MGA coupe 
is gorgeous and is a real work of art as he did most all the work 
himself on the car.  His cars are so impressive, and his enthusiasm 
for MGs has inspired me at times when I think of other hobbies to 
pursue.  Great guy he is.

There were more TFs than TDs, which defies logic considering how few 
TFs were made, and how few remain.  There was a cream coloured one 
which I photographed that was stunning.  The owner had just had the 
car restored, and the detailing was phenomenal.  Even the lining of 
the little tool box in front of the firewall was there, and 
intact.  It had a valve cover that I had not seen before with a 
complex filler on the rear.  I learned that it was a TC item which 
was sought by later T-series owners as it was such an art piece.  The 
owner started up the engine and told me it had been rebuilt and 
balanced.  It sure ran well.  I must say, this car gave me an 
inferiority complex as I own a similar car with the same colour 
scheme.  Until I saw this TF, I thought mine was as nice as they got.

I saw Jim Legg of Napa, who had sold me an MGB radio years ago.  He 
drove his MGB that tows a trailer made of a severed MGB's 
hindquarters.  Jim is very dedicated to his MGs, and has two MGBs.

One of the more  unusual MGs at the show was a "tubbed" MGA roadster 
powered by a massive chromed and blown V8.  I noticed that the car's 
grille was from a '62 Mk 2 and the taillights from a 1600.  No 
originality/concours prize for him!

The other odd MG was a GT that had been converted to a 
roadster-pickup truck.  The owner had done a lot of beautiful 
woodwork to it, and I was impressed how pretty the car looked.  The 
owner's wife told me that her husband had started with a parts car 
that ran so well he couldn't just discard it, so made it into a 
custom.  She placed their little pet dog in its special doggy seat 
for me to include in my photograph of the car.

There was a dearth of  MG sedans.  Only one I saw was an MG 1100.  It 
was very well preserved, and wore its original tartan red paint.  I 
always thought only MGBs were tartan red.  This has got to be one of 
a handful of 1100s left in the world.

My photos:

https://picasaweb.google.com/104973305347633073496/September302011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIGxsaijrPb8XA


Website for the show:

http://mgfallfestival.com/i


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1973 MGB GT (selling)
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars