[Mgs] question about paint prep

[Clayton Kirkwood]

Perhaps the thing to do is spray on some paintable rubber sound/heat coating
and then paint that. There is also paintable rust inhibitor which has
phosphoric acid as a major component. 

I was hoping that a blaster would work. I bought a couple of cans of
aluminum oxide media which is pretty angular and I'll see if that works. I'd
like it if somebody knew the qualitative difference between a suction
blaster and a pressurized blaster; I'd love to force myself into buying a
pressurized blaster unit and a bigger air compressor.

crk

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Glenn Schnittke
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 7:14 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep

> -----Original Message-----
> From:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Clayton Kirkwood
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 2:03 PM
> To:mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep
>
> So, I suppose part of the question remains unanswered: how much work
should I
> go to repaint the interior given that it is covered by carpet and panels
and
> are pressurized blasters better than suction blasters or is a quick rough
up
> with a blaster and then primer a better suited route?
>
>

To that question, I would say that it depends on how far your 
shipwright's disease has taken over. If you're planning a no holds 
barred resto, then you need to get all the parts and residue off  and go 
down to bare metal all over, make sure there is any bondo anywhere, and 
any fill needed is lead. That's what the factory used, after all. I only 
say that because I know someone will pick it up to create (hopefully) 
another thread...

On the other hand, if you want to do a 'good' quality resto, make sure 
everything is protected from rust. That's what the interior paint was 
intended for. Invest in some POR-15 or something like it, and make sure 
that all the nooks and crannies are covered with it correctly. That may 
mean contacting the company that makes whatever coating you choose and 
making sure you know how to use their product. My experience tells me 
that you can cover rust with the right paint, but not other 
contaminates. They can contain air and moisture. Sadly that means that I 
think you need to remove the adhesives. The easiest way *I've* found is 
to heat the area far enough to remove ALL the moisture (it's amazing how 
long some adhesives can stay solvent. Isn't that what they're designed 
to do?) and then hit it with some walnut shell blast to remove the 
residue. It doesn't always work, but it's the best I've come up with. I 
think one thing we can all agree on is that removing old adhesives is 
the pits pf hell.

I don't have any experience with suction blasters so I can't give you 
anything on that count. Whatever color rustproofing you use should be 
able to be topcoated with the color of you choice or you shouldn't use 
it if that's your direction. To a certain extent, if you or a judge 
can't see it and it won't rust, it's a job well done.

Glenn
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