From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Oct  1 08:55:45 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2011 09:55:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <CAAB4965.34EEC%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CAAB4965.34EEC%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4E8729F1.9020402@justbrits.com>

<< Hmm, mine always had a double horizontal loop, near the cowl. >>

Then that IS how I would re-install, Max.
As I said, each Marque........................<G> ! ! !

<< It probably would have helped to have a second loop near the
head end. >>

Same thing <VBG> as above ! ! !

I have to say I have NEVER seen a "second set of loop(s)" on any
LBC, even original/restored [correctly <G>] Factory Race and/or
Rally cars --- where one WOULD expect to see them.

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

PS:  When installing I leave instrument LOOSE in it's hole and then
using anything from a fat, little 1.75" prescription vial to small soup
cans, I FIRST make big loose circles and THEN wrap the 'tube'
around my selected 'die' --- bulb end NOT installed --- THEN
when you 'remove' the tube from it's 'die' and the tube will
'spring' to roughly it's "correct" size [diameter] which is who
knows what <G> ! ! !
PPS:  Best if you can find an original car & 'copy' it's install<G> ! !

From otis15 at aol.com  Sat Oct  1 11:12:23 2011
From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 13:12:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB 71
Message-ID: <8CE4E746BD96DD1-2554-30B26@webmail-d152.sysops.aol.com>

   Parting out 71 gt. Body real good, no rust. Interior  excellant.
wire
wheels, new tires. No engine.
Why. I have a new prht Miata. and just bought a 92 Miata. Hate to do
it, but I've run out of room in the garages and the city is strick
about cars that dont run sitting in a driveway. After 30 rears of MGs
Miatas have ruined me for M G's. Cant' ship anything. I'm located
halfway between Pittsburgh and Cleveland.


Steve

From don at napanet.net  Sat Oct  1 11:28:35 2011
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2011 10:28:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] more MG car show!
Message-ID: <20111001172849.BD7A6AEB80@mail.dsl.napanet.net>

Rick Anderson of Napa, who owns the tartan red MG 1100 that was at 
the Petaluma MG Show, sent this to the local British car group:


>Subject: Re: [Nobbc] MG car show!
>Reply-To: North Bay British Car Club <nobbc at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
>  I am the owner of the MG 1100.  It was a great show!  Thanks for posting the
>photos. Here is a link to some more photos:  www.LittleBritishCar.org

From mvheim at sonic.net  Sun Oct  2 15:45:58 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2011 14:45:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <4E8729F1.9020402@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <CAAE29A6.34F48%mvheim@sonic.net>

Thanks for the advice. I did look in "Original MGB". The photos all showed
the tube routed under the heater valve, with a couple of loops near where it
came out of the cowl.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 10/1/11 7:55 AM, shop at justbrits.com at shop at justbrits.com wrote:

> << Hmm, mine always had a double horizontal loop, near the cowl. >>
> 
> Then that IS how I would re-install, Max.
> As I said, each Marque........................<G> ! ! !
> 
> << It probably would have helped to have a second loop near the
> head end. >>
> 
> Same thing <VBG> as above ! ! !
> 
> I have to say I have NEVER seen a "second set of loop(s)" on any
> LBC, even original/restored [correctly <G>] Factory Race and/or
> Rally cars --- where one WOULD expect to see them.
> 
> Ed
> 1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
> 2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
>     Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
> 
> PS:  When installing I leave instrument LOOSE in it's hole and then
> using anything from a fat, little 1.75" prescription vial to small soup
> cans, I FIRST make big loose circles and THEN wrap the 'tube'
> around my selected 'die' --- bulb end NOT installed --- THEN
> when you 'remove' the tube from it's 'die' and the tube will
> 'spring' to roughly it's "correct" size [diameter] which is who
> knows what <G> ! ! !
> PPS:  Best if you can find an original car & 'copy' it's install<G> ! !

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Sun Oct  2 16:05:17 2011
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 18:05:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Spark plug query
Message-ID: <CDBBC862-CBA4-419E-B83F-D50AFC422320@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
I have  Champion L86C's in my 53 MGTD. It has a 1/2" head just now.
What choices do you recommend from other manufacturers. I don't  
especially like today's Champion plugs.
What Plug Range Specs chart do you recommend I visit?
TIA,
Dave Houser

From mjb at autox.team.net  Sun Oct  2 18:13:08 2011
From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Sun,  2 Oct 2011 18:13:08 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] List issues
Message-ID: <20111003001308.060D7187654@autox.team.net>

Not only is the Team.Net server taking a loooong time to get
list messages processed, the archives [ link below ] are not
getting updated properly.

In truth the messages are getting processed and put in the right
place, but for some reason the top level archive page is not showing
the updates.

And of course the mailman interface is having problems, giving
errors on various functions.

Something odd is going on, I'm looking into it.  I *really* need
to get the new server up and running!


mjb.


6:12

From crk at godblessthe.us  Sun Oct  2 18:19:20 2011
From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 17:19:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
Message-ID: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>

I am in the process of prepping my B for painting. Most of the exterior
paint and primer has been sanded off, but the interior is tougher. I have a
suction sandblaster and have used both soda and sand. However, I have had
poor performance removing the glue used to keep the carpet down and blasting
doesn't do so great on the paint either. I'm not necessarily wanting to
remove the paint on the interior where it is covered up, but I would like to
get the glue off. Any suggestions???? Would a "real" mediablaster work, or
am I being anal about how "clean" things need to be for repainting?

 

TIA,

 

Clayton

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Sun Oct  2 19:53:50 2011
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 20:53:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spark plug query
In-Reply-To: <CDBBC862-CBA4-419E-B83F-D50AFC422320@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <CDBBC862-CBA4-419E-B83F-D50AFC422320@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <206D8A8B028E4297B710AFB922013480@YOURF3E40984A8>

Hello Dave,

I've used a lot of Champion plugs, but switched over to NGK in my B-series
engines a few years ago after getting several bad Champions. They were
sometimes bad right out of the box and misfired. The counter guys at my
local O'Reilly Auto say that has become commonplace and they seem to be
pushing Autolites.

The downside with NGK is the price--they are about twice that of Champion.
I've had excellent results with them, though.

I googled up a Sparkplug cross-reference table and found this one:

http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/

It seems to be thorough, but it sent me to a bunch of Amazon listings!
Imagine that!

Good luck.

David


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of W. David Houser
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2011 5:05 PM
To: MGList List
Subject: [Mgs] Spark plug query

Listers,
I have  Champion L86C's in my 53 MGTD. It has a 1/2" head just now.
What choices do you recommend from other manufacturers. I don't  
especially like today's Champion plugs.
What Plug Range Specs chart do you recommend I visit?
TIA,
Dave Houser

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Oct  2 22:31:25 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2011 23:31:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spark plug query
In-Reply-To: <206D8A8B028E4297B710AFB922013480@YOURF3E40984A8>
References: <CDBBC862-CBA4-419E-B83F-D50AFC422320@tampabay.rr.com>
	<206D8A8B028E4297B710AFB922013480@YOURF3E40984A8>
Message-ID: <4E893A9D.5090205@justbrits.com>

<< The downside with NGK is the price--they are about twice that
of Champion. >>

Wish I was yer FLAPS, David ! ! !  <G>

You want NGK [which is ALL I use - my cars AND customers'];
tell me which, quantity and I send to you for +$1.00 of register
receipt + USPS ! ! !

Ed

PS:  Champs have been MINIMUM of one-in-8, BAD outta-da-box! !
I have a pal that used to be 1/2 partner in a Foreign Car Shop and
one Sat - using my '68 350cid El Camino - tested two (2) DOZEN
Eight-Pacs of champs.  PERFECT SCORE = ONE (1) in EVERY 'pac'.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Oct  2 23:08:32 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2011 00:08:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>
References: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>
Message-ID: <643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I'm sure it depends on the type of adhesive.  I install carpet 
padding and a lot of the carpet in my MGA with "carpet adhesive" 
bought by the gallon from Home Depot.  I think it is latex based, and 
fairly slow drying.  I have remove old carpet and installed new 
carpet a couple of times by now.  I settled on soaking it with 
gasoline, scraping out the bulk of it with a gasket scraper, and 
rubbing it with steel wool to wash it clean.  I was at first sort of 
surprised that gasoline was a solvent for the glue, but whatever 
works.  Use rubber gloves, and no smoking please.


At 05:19 PM 10/2/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>.... the interior is tougher. .... I have had poor performance 
>removing the glue used to keep the carpet down .... I would like to 
>get the glue off. Any suggestions???? ....

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Oct  3 00:10:46 2011
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 23:10:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Temperature sender
In-Reply-To: <CAAE29A6.34F48%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <4E8729F1.9020402@justbrits.com> <CAAE29A6.34F48%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyO+u_iT1V1r9Wu=LJcWV1Enu9UfpqD0RERyNvQS4eHMUg@mail.gmail.com>

On my '57 MGA, the capillary tube comes out of the block, is attached
to the top of  the far side of the generator, then a vertical loop and
after that, it is fixed to the inner fender. It hasn't broken in about
30k miles.

Simon

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  3 13:24:56 2011
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 15:24:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>,
	<643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W8C86EB9B2B927333F5D86B7FA0@phx.gbl>

Heat is the answer to softening most adhesives - try a hair dryer or (better)
heat gun.
Steam is also helpful with some water-soluble adhesives.

-Mike Eldred
Wilmington, VT



> Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 00:08:32 -0500
> To: crk at godblessthe.us; mgs at autox.team.net
> From: barneymg at mgaguru.com
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep
>
> I'm sure it depends on the type of adhesive. I install carpet
> padding and a lot of the carpet in my MGA with "carpet adhesive"
> bought by the gallon from Home Depot. I think it is latex based, and
> fairly slow drying. I have remove old carpet and installed new
> carpet a couple of times by now. I settled on soaking it with
> gasoline, scraping out the bulk of it with a gasket scraper, and
> rubbing it with steel wool to wash it clean. I was at first sort of
> surprised that gasoline was a solvent for the glue, but whatever
> works. Use rubber gloves, and no smoking please.
>
>
> At 05:19 PM 10/2/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> >.... the interior is tougher. .... I have had poor performance
> >removing the glue used to keep the carpet down .... I would like to
> >get the glue off. Any suggestions???? ....
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From crk at godblessthe.us  Mon Oct  3 14:03:22 2011
From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 13:03:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W8C86EB9B2B927333F5D86B7FA0@phx.gbl>
References: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>,
	<643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT124-W8C86EB9B2B927333F5D86B7FA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00bd01cc8207$815adf60$84109e20$@us>

So, I suppose part of the question remains unanswered: how much work should
I go to repaint the interior given that it is covered by carpet and panels
and are pressurized blasters better than suction blasters or is a quick
rough up with a blaster and then primer a better suited route?

 

TIA,

 

Clayton

 

From: Mike Eldred [mailto:redscirocco at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 12:25 PM
To: barneymg at mgaguru.com; crk at godblessthe.us; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Mgs] question about paint prep

 

Heat is the answer to softening most adhesives - try a hair dryer or
(better) heat gun.  
Steam is also helpful with some water-soluble adhesives.  
 
-Mike Eldred
Wilmington, VT
 
 

> Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 00:08:32 -0500
> To: crk at godblessthe.us; mgs at autox.team.net
> From: barneymg at mgaguru.com
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep
> 
> I'm sure it depends on the type of adhesive. I install carpet 
> padding and a lot of the carpet in my MGA with "carpet adhesive" 
> bought by the gallon from Home Depot. I think it is latex based, and 
> fairly slow drying. I have remove old carpet and installed new 
> carpet a couple of times by now. I settled on soaking it with 
> gasoline, scraping out the bulk of it with a gasket scraper, and 
> rubbing it with steel wool to wash it clean. I was at first sort of 
> surprised that gasoline was a solvent for the glue, but whatever 
> works. Use rubber gloves, and no smoking please.
> 
> 
> At 05:19 PM 10/2/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> >.... the interior is tougher. .... I have had poor performance 
> >removing the glue used to keep the carpet down .... I would like to 
> >get the glue off. Any suggestions???? ....
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Oct  3 15:40:14 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 14:40:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>
	<643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-Tquxf0Zdhwki4Y5LX4ua9ZEYkqe=d5q8uC=viMZK1tQgg@mail.gmail.com>

Gasoline is a very poor item to use as a cleaner.  Besides the fumes being
explosive, it leaves a greasy residue that will have to be cleaned up before
paint can be successfully applied.
$.02
Rick

On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 10:08 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>wrote:

> I'm sure it depends on the type of adhesive.  I install carpet padding and
> a lot of the carpet in my MGA with "carpet adhesive" bought by the gallon
> from Home Depot.  I think it is latex based, and fairly slow drying.  I have
> remove old carpet and installed new carpet a couple of times by now.  I
> settled on soaking it with gasoline, scraping out the bulk of it with a
> gasket scraper, and rubbing it with steel wool to wash it clean.  I was at
> first sort of surprised that gasoline was a solvent for the glue, but
> whatever works.  Use rubber gloves, and no smoking please.
>
>
> At 05:19 PM 10/2/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>
>> .... the interior is tougher. .... I have had poor performance removing
>> the glue used to keep the carpet down .... I would like to get the glue off.
>> Any suggestions???? ....
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/richard.ewald@**
> gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com>

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Oct  3 16:30:21 2011
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 22:30:21 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <00bd01cc8207$815adf60$84109e20$@us>
References: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>,
	<643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT124-W8C86EB9B2B927333F5D86B7FA0@phx.gbl>
	<00bd01cc8207$815adf60$84109e20$@us>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA3576B54D@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

That depends on a lot of factors. It is not important in the sense that most
of it will be covered up. But if you are changing paint colors and assuming
you have the engine out to paint the engine compartment, I think it is worth
the extra effort to do it right and make a complete color change. The interior
is just going to be sprayed anyway, not the shiny polish on the body. I don't
know much about blasters - I removed the carpet glue manually with scrapers
and sanders. But I also had most of the prep and paint done by a body shop
after I stripped all the parts out of the body (72 B). The paint is not the
greatest or shiniest in the interior but the car is now Black Tulip with
virtually no trace of the original orange.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Clayton Kirkwood
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 2:03 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep

So, I suppose part of the question remains unanswered: how much work should I
go to repaint the interior given that it is covered by carpet and panels and
are pressurized blasters better than suction blasters or is a quick rough up
with a blaster and then primer a better suited route?



TIA,



Clayton

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Oct  3 16:32:11 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2011 17:32:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <CACOF-Tquxf0Zdhwki4Y5LX4ua9ZEYkqe=d5q8uC=viMZK1tQgg@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <004101cc8162$190a1110$4b1e3330$@us>
	<643135.16777.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CACOF-Tquxf0Zdhwki4Y5LX4ua9ZEYkqe=d5q8uC=viMZK1tQgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <543784.83697.qm@smtp108.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Much truth there.  But gasoline is a very good solvent for many 
applications, and much cheaper than many other solvents.  I commonly 
use it to wash down an engine to remove grease, oil and dirt, then 
follow with a good rinse with lacquer thinner to remove the residue 
left behind by the first wash.  Lacquer thinner not only removes the 
fuel slime but may also remove a lot of paint that may remain, and it 
leaes nothing behind when it dries (rapidly).  Lots of solvents are 
flamable, so treat accordingly. What else do you have that will 
remove glue and oil, is NOT flamable, and will leave a pristienly 
clean surface for painting?  Gasoline is not so bad to work with as a 
cleaner if you treat it with proper respect.


At 02:40 PM 10/3/2011 -0700, Richard Ewald wrote:
>Gasoline is a very poor item to use as a cleaner.  Besides the fumes 
>being explosive, it leaves a greasy residue that will have to be 
>cleaned up before paint can be successfully applied.
>
>
>On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 10:08 PM, Barney Gaylord 
><<mailto:barneymg at mgaguru.com>barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:
>I'm sure it depends on the type of adhesive.  I install carpet 
>padding and a lot of the carpet in my MGA with "carpet adhesive" 
>bought by the gallon from Home Depot.  I think it is latex based, 
>and fairly slow drying.  I have remove old carpet and installed new 
>carpet a couple of times by now.  I settled on soaking it with 
>gasoline, scraping out the bulk of it with a gasket scraper, and 
>rubbing it with steel wool to wash it clean.  I was at first sort of 
>surprised that gasoline was a solvent for the glue, but whatever 
>works.  Use rubber gloves, and no smoking please.
>
>
>At 05:19 PM 10/2/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>.... the interior is tougher. .... I have had poor performance 
>removing the glue used to keep the carpet down .... I would like to 
>get the glue off. Any suggestions???? ....

From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Oct  3 19:15:45 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2011 18:15:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <543784.83697.qm@smtp108.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAAFAC51.34FC9%mvheim@sonic.net>

Diesel fuel is an equally available and comparably priced solvent with the
advantage of not being flammable at all, for all practical purposes.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 10/3/11 3:32 PM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg at mgaguru.com wrote:

> Much truth there.  But gasoline is a very good solvent for many
> applications, and much cheaper than many other solvents.  I commonly
> use it to wash down an engine to remove grease, oil and dirt, then
> follow with a good rinse with lacquer thinner to remove the residue
> left behind by the first wash.  Lacquer thinner not only removes the
> fuel slime but may also remove a lot of paint that may remain, and it
> leaes nothing behind when it dries (rapidly).  Lots of solvents are
> flamable, so treat accordingly. What else do you have that will
> remove glue and oil, is NOT flamable, and will leave a pristienly
> clean surface for painting?  Gasoline is not so bad to work with as a
> cleaner if you treat it with proper respect.
> 
> 
> At 02:40 PM 10/3/2011 -0700, Richard Ewald wrote:
>> Gasoline is a very poor item to use as a cleaner.  Besides the fumes
>> being explosive, it leaves a greasy residue that will have to be
>> cleaned up before paint can be successfully applied.
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 10:08 PM, Barney Gaylord
>> <<mailto:barneymg at mgaguru.com>barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:
>> I'm sure it depends on the type of adhesive.  I install carpet
>> padding and a lot of the carpet in my MGA with "carpet adhesive"
>> bought by the gallon from Home Depot.  I think it is latex based,
>> and fairly slow drying.  I have remove old carpet and installed new
>> carpet a couple of times by now.  I settled on soaking it with
>> gasoline, scraping out the bulk of it with a gasket scraper, and
>> rubbing it with steel wool to wash it clean.  I was at first sort of
>> surprised that gasoline was a solvent for the glue, but whatever
>> works.  Use rubber gloves, and no smoking please.
>> 
>> 
>> At 05:19 PM 10/2/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>> .... the interior is tougher. .... I have had poor performance
>> removing the glue used to keep the carpet down .... I would like to
>> get the glue off. Any suggestions???? ....

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Oct  4 13:04:48 2011
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 21:04:48 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
References: <CAAFAC51.34FC9%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <0FF481598C76410C990A2030E7D3BBAA@uw471de61b465c>

Well Max,

I have driven diesel fueled cars for decades from 1978 on when I got my 
first leasecar - a VW Golf 50 BHP, but hate the smell of diesel!
Once items are touched by diesel, it is very hard to get rid of the diesel 
fumes.
Personally I would opt for an alternative solution.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <mvheim at sonic.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 3:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep


> Diesel fuel is an equally available and comparably priced solvent with the
> advantage of not being flammable at all, for all practical purposes.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
> on 10/3/11 3:32 PM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg at mgaguru.com wrote:
>
>> Much truth there.  But gasoline is a very good solvent for many
>> applications, and much cheaper than many other solvents.  I commonly
>> use it to wash down an engine to remove grease, oil and dirt, then
>> follow with a good rinse with lacquer thinner to remove the residue
>> left behind by the first wash.  Lacquer thinner not only removes the
>> fuel slime but may also remove a lot of paint that may remain, and it
>> leaes nothing behind when it dries (rapidly).  Lots of solvents are
>> flamable, so treat accordingly. What else do you have that will
>> remove glue and oil, is NOT flamable, and will leave a pristienly
>> clean surface for painting?  Gasoline is not so bad to work with as a
>> cleaner if you treat it with proper respect.
>>
>>
>> At 02:40 PM 10/3/2011 -0700, Richard Ewald wrote:
>>> Gasoline is a very poor item to use as a cleaner.  Besides the fumes
>>> being explosive, it leaves a greasy residue that will have to be
>>> cleaned up before paint can be successfully applied.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 10:08 PM, Barney Gaylord
>>> <<mailto:barneymg at mgaguru.com>barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:
>>> I'm sure it depends on the type of adhesive.  I install carpet
>>> padding and a lot of the carpet in my MGA with "carpet adhesive"
>>> bought by the gallon from Home Depot.  I think it is latex based,
>>> and fairly slow drying.  I have remove old carpet and installed new
>>> carpet a couple of times by now.  I settled on soaking it with
>>> gasoline, scraping out the bulk of it with a gasket scraper, and
>>> rubbing it with steel wool to wash it clean.  I was at first sort of
>>> surprised that gasoline was a solvent for the glue, but whatever
>>> works.  Use rubber gloves, and no smoking please.
>>>
>>>
>>> At 05:19 PM 10/2/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>>> .... the interior is tougher. .... I have had poor performance
>>> removing the glue used to keep the carpet down .... I would like to
>>> get the glue off. Any suggestions???? ....

From guinness at stclegal.com  Tue Oct  4 14:25:10 2011
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 15:25:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Question about paint prep
Message-ID: <4E8B6BA6.3040602@stclegal.com>

Clayton Kirkwood asked about paint prep in areas that would be covered 
by carpet.  David Council suggested that if you are doing a major 
re-paint with a different color (colour), you should repaint the entire 
car, even the inaccessible bits that will be covered by carpet etc.

If one is repainting a car a different color, might I suggest that you 
leave a small bit of the original hue undisturbed in a covered area for 
future restorers/archeologists to use as a reference.  Just my 2 cents.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Oct  4 20:13:51 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 21:13:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
Message-ID: <4E8BBD5F.6040506@comcast.net>

> -----Original Message-----
> From:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Clayton Kirkwood
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 2:03 PM
> To:mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep
>
> So, I suppose part of the question remains unanswered: how much work should I
> go to repaint the interior given that it is covered by carpet and panels and
> are pressurized blasters better than suction blasters or is a quick rough up
> with a blaster and then primer a better suited route?
>
>

To that question, I would say that it depends on how far your 
shipwright's disease has taken over. If you're planning a no holds 
barred resto, then you need to get all the parts and residue off  and go 
down to bare metal all over, make sure there is any bondo anywhere, and 
any fill needed is lead. That's what the factory used, after all. I only 
say that because I know someone will pick it up to create (hopefully) 
another thread...

On the other hand, if you want to do a 'good' quality resto, make sure 
everything is protected from rust. That's what the interior paint was 
intended for. Invest in some POR-15 or something like it, and make sure 
that all the nooks and crannies are covered with it correctly. That may 
mean contacting the company that makes whatever coating you choose and 
making sure you know how to use their product. My experience tells me 
that you can cover rust with the right paint, but not other 
contaminates. They can contain air and moisture. Sadly that means that I 
think you need to remove the adhesives. The easiest way *I've* found is 
to heat the area far enough to remove ALL the moisture (it's amazing how 
long some adhesives can stay solvent. Isn't that what they're designed 
to do?) and then hit it with some walnut shell blast to remove the 
residue. It doesn't always work, but it's the best I've come up with. I 
think one thing we can all agree on is that removing old adhesives is 
the pits pf hell.

I don't have any experience with suction blasters so I can't give you 
anything on that count. Whatever color rustproofing you use should be 
able to be topcoated with the color of you choice or you shouldn't use 
it if that's your direction. To a certain extent, if you or a judge 
can't see it and it won't rust, it's a job well done.

Glenn

From crk at godblessthe.us  Tue Oct  4 22:49:38 2011
From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 21:49:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <4E8BBD5F.6040506@comcast.net>
References: <4E8BBD5F.6040506@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <018c01cc831a$30b2bbf0$921833d0$@us>

Perhaps the thing to do is spray on some paintable rubber sound/heat coating
and then paint that. There is also paintable rust inhibitor which has
phosphoric acid as a major component. 

I was hoping that a blaster would work. I bought a couple of cans of
aluminum oxide media which is pretty angular and I'll see if that works. I'd
like it if somebody knew the qualitative difference between a suction
blaster and a pressurized blaster; I'd love to force myself into buying a
pressurized blaster unit and a bigger air compressor.

crk

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Glenn Schnittke
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 7:14 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep

> -----Original Message-----
> From:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Clayton Kirkwood
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 2:03 PM
> To:mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep
>
> So, I suppose part of the question remains unanswered: how much work
should I
> go to repaint the interior given that it is covered by carpet and panels
and
> are pressurized blasters better than suction blasters or is a quick rough
up
> with a blaster and then primer a better suited route?
>
>

To that question, I would say that it depends on how far your 
shipwright's disease has taken over. If you're planning a no holds 
barred resto, then you need to get all the parts and residue off  and go 
down to bare metal all over, make sure there is any bondo anywhere, and 
any fill needed is lead. That's what the factory used, after all. I only 
say that because I know someone will pick it up to create (hopefully) 
another thread...

On the other hand, if you want to do a 'good' quality resto, make sure 
everything is protected from rust. That's what the interior paint was 
intended for. Invest in some POR-15 or something like it, and make sure 
that all the nooks and crannies are covered with it correctly. That may 
mean contacting the company that makes whatever coating you choose and 
making sure you know how to use their product. My experience tells me 
that you can cover rust with the right paint, but not other 
contaminates. They can contain air and moisture. Sadly that means that I 
think you need to remove the adhesives. The easiest way *I've* found is 
to heat the area far enough to remove ALL the moisture (it's amazing how 
long some adhesives can stay solvent. Isn't that what they're designed 
to do?) and then hit it with some walnut shell blast to remove the 
residue. It doesn't always work, but it's the best I've come up with. I 
think one thing we can all agree on is that removing old adhesives is 
the pits pf hell.

I don't have any experience with suction blasters so I can't give you 
anything on that count. Whatever color rustproofing you use should be 
able to be topcoated with the color of you choice or you shouldn't use 
it if that's your direction. To a certain extent, if you or a judge 
can't see it and it won't rust, it's a job well done.

Glenn
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/crk at godblessthe.us

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Oct  5 08:48:25 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 09:48:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <018c01cc831a$30b2bbf0$921833d0$@us>
References: <4E8BBD5F.6040506@comcast.net> <018c01cc831a$30b2bbf0$921833d0$@us>
Message-ID: <427377.59208.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

The most important feature of a sand blaster is that it requires a 
LOT of air flow.  So if you have a small air compressor you will have 
short trigger time before you lose air pressure, and a long wait for 
the compressor to recover and build up pressure again.

A suction blaster uses a venturi in the spray nozzel to "suck" air up 
through the media pickup hose.  In reality the blasting media is 
pushed up the hose by the pressure differential between atmosphereic 
air pressure and absolute pressure at the venturi.  In simpler terms, 
the pressure available to move air flow and plasting media up the 
pickup hose is less then one atmosphere (less than 14.7 psi).  As 
such, the suction blaster is limited in the amount of blasting media 
that can be picked up and delivered to the gun.  It is useful for 
small jobs like a valve cover for instance, but cleaning a set of 
wheels to bare metal would take all day.  It is commonly used with 
limited air supply, like a 1 or 2 HP compressor.  The suction blaster 
can also be very cheap, so it may be a good deal for occasional use 
on small jobs.

A pressure blaster applies compressor pressure to the media supply 
tank.  It can apply up to 10x as much pressure on the media pickup 
hose, therefore supplying an almost unlimited amount of blasting 
media to the gun, very useful for big jobs.  A pressure blaster will 
typically require a large amount of air flow.  My fairly efficient 
2HP belt drive twin cylinder single stage compressor can produce 7.5 
cfm at 90 psi.  This is enough to operate a small (Harbor Freight 
low-end unit) pressure blaster with about 50% duty cycle (one minute 
trigger time followed buy one minute recovery time for the 
compressor).  It works for moderate size jobs like body sills, frame 
and suspension parts, as long as you have enough time to work with 
only 50% duty cycle.

Read this for a primer on using a pressure blaster: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts118.htm

If you are contemplating blasting an entire car body, frame and 
suspension parts, then you really should have a larger 
compressor.  Minimum size compressor for continuous blasting would be 
5HP belt drive 2-stage compressor (usually on a 60 gallon air 
tank).  Even at that you might think it's a bit slow when processing 
half a squae foot per minute for paint removal or 1/4 square foot per 
minute for rust removal.

For fast production blasting the sky is the limit for compressor 
size.  A local franchise of Media Tech has a 75HP electric compressor 
on a 150 gallon air tank.  Electricity to run it is something like $7 
per hour, but the guy can clean a whole unibody car body to bare 
metal inside and out in about 5 hours.  He would like a larger 
compressor to be more productive.


At 09:49 PM 10/4/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>....
>.... I'd like it if somebody knew the qualitative difference between 
>a suction blaster and a pressurized blaster; I'd love to force 
>myself into buying a pressurized blaster unit and a bigger air compressor.
>....

From crk at godblessthe.us  Wed Oct  5 17:59:48 2011
From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 16:59:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] question about paint prep
In-Reply-To: <427377.59208.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <4E8BBD5F.6040506@comcast.net> <018c01cc831a$30b2bbf0$921833d0$@us>
	<427377.59208.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008701cc83ba$ddfc0aa0$99f41fe0$@us>

Thanks Barney, very good info and pretty much what I was after: I won't do
the 75HP route, but I very much may have to move up above my 3HP. I hadn't
contemplated the 10x increase in pressure going with a pressure blaster, but
it makes sense.

Clayton



-----Original Message-----
From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg at mgaguru.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 7:48 AM
To: Clayton Kirkwood; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about paint prep

The most important feature of a sand blaster is that it requires a 
LOT of air flow.  So if you have a small air compressor you will have 
short trigger time before you lose air pressure, and a long wait for 
the compressor to recover and build up pressure again.

A suction blaster uses a venturi in the spray nozzel to "suck" air up 
through the media pickup hose.  In reality the blasting media is 
pushed up the hose by the pressure differential between atmosphereic 
air pressure and absolute pressure at the venturi.  In simpler terms, 
the pressure available to move air flow and plasting media up the 
pickup hose is less then one atmosphere (less than 14.7 psi).  As 
such, the suction blaster is limited in the amount of blasting media 
that can be picked up and delivered to the gun.  It is useful for 
small jobs like a valve cover for instance, but cleaning a set of 
wheels to bare metal would take all day.  It is commonly used with 
limited air supply, like a 1 or 2 HP compressor.  The suction blaster 
can also be very cheap, so it may be a good deal for occasional use 
on small jobs.

A pressure blaster applies compressor pressure to the media supply 
tank.  It can apply up to 10x as much pressure on the media pickup 
hose, therefore supplying an almost unlimited amount of blasting 
media to the gun, very useful for big jobs.  A pressure blaster will 
typically require a large amount of air flow.  My fairly efficient 
2HP belt drive twin cylinder single stage compressor can produce 7.5 
cfm at 90 psi.  This is enough to operate a small (Harbor Freight 
low-end unit) pressure blaster with about 50% duty cycle (one minute 
trigger time followed buy one minute recovery time for the 
compressor).  It works for moderate size jobs like body sills, frame 
and suspension parts, as long as you have enough time to work with 
only 50% duty cycle.

Read this for a primer on using a pressure blaster: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts118.htm

If you are contemplating blasting an entire car body, frame and 
suspension parts, then you really should have a larger 
compressor.  Minimum size compressor for continuous blasting would be 
5HP belt drive 2-stage compressor (usually on a 60 gallon air 
tank).  Even at that you might think it's a bit slow when processing 
half a squae foot per minute for paint removal or 1/4 square foot per 
minute for rust removal.

For fast production blasting the sky is the limit for compressor 
size.  A local franchise of Media Tech has a 75HP electric compressor 
on a 150 gallon air tank.  Electricity to run it is something like $7 
per hour, but the guy can clean a whole unibody car body to bare 
metal inside and out in about 5 hours.  He would like a larger 
compressor to be more productive.


At 09:49 PM 10/4/2011 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>....
>.... I'd like it if somebody knew the qualitative difference between 
>a suction blaster and a pressurized blaster; I'd love to force 
>myself into buying a pressurized blaster unit and a bigger air compressor.
>....

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Thu Oct  6 07:20:08 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 09:20:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Flex Lines to Clutch/Brake Master Cylinder
Message-ID: <8CE5241CDE545A1-2AB4-2362F@web-mmc-m09.sysops.aol.com>

One of the really exasperating jobs on an MGA is changing a master cylinder.
With the fittings at the back of the M/C, it is essentially impossible to
attach the lines with the M/C bolted in place.  Attaching them with the M/C
unsecured necessitates bending the metal pipes and forcing the M/C into
position, working against the resistance of the pipes. Seems to me a logical
solution would be to have a union on the fire wall, with flex lines extending
from there to the M/C.  Does anyone offer a kit for this purpose, or has
anyone worked out the detail this type of solution?

I recently installed a rebuilt M/C and now I find it is leaking, apparently
where the pipes attach at the back of the M/C.  I hate to unbolt the M/C and
force the pipes back and forth for what must be the umpteenth time for this
old gal.

Bill Wilkman
1960 MGA
In Family Since New

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Oct  6 23:39:31 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 00:39:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: [...S...pridgets] Classic Car of the Year shortlist -
 Telegraph]
Message-ID: <4E8E9093.1040407@justbrits.com>

 From the Spridgets List !!!

Oughta make a chap down in AZ very happy as well as Big Healey
Rally car lovers <G> !!!  And I DO want the Triumph Roadster ! ! !

http://tinyurl.com/3dj4nst

or*
*

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/picturegalleries/8808725/Classic-Car-of-
the-Year-shortlist.html 
_______________________________________________
Ed

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Fri Oct  7 23:33:01 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 01:33:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Spare Tire Cover Installation
Message-ID: <8CE5392E0FDB9E9-207C-40B33@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>

I'm about to install a Clarke Spares MGA spare tire cover.  I read the MGA
Guru information on installation and it is clear to me that the boot part of
the cover is only attached to the car at the top.  It was not clear to me,
however, if the same holds true for the carpeted part of the cover that fits
in the cockpit area.  The Clark Spares cover only has a vinyl fabric flap on
the top of the interior piece which implies it, too, only attaches to the car
at the top.  This makes me wonder, however, why the fiberboard flange
surrounds the entire spare tire opening.

Bill Wilkman
MGA
In Family Since New

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Oct  8 09:17:04 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2011 10:17:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Spare Tire Cover Installation
In-Reply-To: <8CE5392E0FDB9E9-207C-40B33@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE5392E0FDB9E9-207C-40B33@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <719564.15737.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The interior carpet cover for the spare tire should attach and seal 
all the way around the opening in the bulkhead.  Or at the very 
least, for functionality, it must be fastened at top and bottom 
(perhaps not at the sides).  The first time you stow the spare tire 
in the boot you will appreciate why the interior cover needs to be 
securely fastened to the bulkhead.

This is a rare occurrence if a Clarke Spares part is incorrect.  Are 
you sure it doesn't have a flange at the bottom that can be fastened 
to the bulkhead?  A picture would be nice.

Barney Gaylord
1958 <GA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 01:33 AM 10/8/2011 -0400, Bill Wilkman (wilkmanracing at aol.com) wrote:
>I'm about to install a Clarke Spares MGA spare tire cover. .... The 
>Clark Spares cover only has a vinyl fabric flap on the top of the 
>interior piece which implies it, too, only attaches to the car at 
>the top.  This makes me wonder, however, why the fiberboard flange 
>surrounds the entire spare tire opening.
>....

From pryner at verizon.net  Wed Oct 12 05:28:38 2011
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:28:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
In-Reply-To: <719564.15737.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CE5392E0FDB9E9-207C-40B33@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
	<719564.15737.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A31E9FFCC14D42128E2428AC31FE022F@PetePC>

I'm putting a '66 MGB together that I got as a huge box of parts.  I've only 
worked on a couple of MGs but have lots of TR and AH experience.  I'm 
installing the front engine mounts and am trying to figure out if I need to 
install a control bracket for the engine mount.  It is item #40 on the 
illustrations used by VB and "The Complete Official MGB.  I do not have any 
control brackets in my parts supply.  I looked in the Moss catalogue and the 
illustration number is 95.  It shows a part number for the early roadsters 
and GTs with a qty required of 2.  It also shows a part number for later 
cars, two required, but not available.
VB shows the part in their illustration but no part number so it isn't 
available through them.
The workshop manual listed above shows the part but states that it is used 
only on the GT.
Is the part used on the roadster?  If so are two required?  The motor mounts 
have a left side and a right side which are not interchangable.  If the 
brackets are required are the two interchangable - doesn't seem logical to 
me.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Pete 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Oct 12 08:18:55 2011
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:18:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] tool to tighten the boot latch
Message-ID: <F2998D90-EC25-4357-B5CC-1AF7148437BC@gmail.com>

Is there a tool available to tighten down the trunk latch? I can't get a
channel lock in there, and everything else I tried is better at removing skin
from my knuckles than tightening that nut.

My lock broke last week, the screw came out of the lock cylinder, the lock
cylinder seems stripped. So I found the old one (original?) and put it back
on.  The key I got with the one that broke, ten years ago, works for that lock
as well.

Maybe I need to clean the threads better?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Oct 12 09:51:30 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:51:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
References: <8CE5392E0FDB9E9-207C-40B33@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com><719564.15737.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<A31E9FFCC14D42128E2428AC31FE022F@PetePC>
Message-ID: <CD9E0B09702E49C48FEB0B2B9196C274@paul>

It's quite complicated.  From what I have been able to find out:

 Mk1 roadsters had a restraint rod between the gearbox and its cross-member to
control fore and aft movement in particular, preventing the engine moving
forwards far enough for the fan to destroy the radiator. Mk1 GTs didn't have
this rod, but had a different arrangement between the gearbox and crossmember
primarily to control vertical movement of the gearbox. This has little or no
effect on of fore and aft movement so control brackets were added to both
front mounts limiting how far the engine could move forwards. Mk2 cars had the
same arrangement for both roadster and GT - dropping the restraint rod, having
a similar arrangement to control vertical movement of the gearbox as the Mk1
GT (but using different components), and having control brackets on both front
mounts. For non-North American cars the right-hand bracket was deleted for the
1972 model year to save a few coppers (in reality one is probably enough),
North American cars continued with two. Another change is that when the carbs
were changed from HS to HIF (18v export engines during 1971, not until
November 1973 for UK cars) the left hand control bracket gained a threaded
stud for mounting the clip that held the carb vent/overflow pipes. In Feb 74 a
new restraint rod using different components to the Mk1 roadster was added to
North American roadsters and GTs. But despite this very positive restraint to
fore and aft movement being used again, the front mount control brackets were
also apparently still provided. Other markets only got this restraint rod at
the start of rubber bumpers production in September 1974, when the engine
mounts changed from rectangular to round, and the restraint brackets were no
longer provided.

I assume you have a roadster, so being a Mk1 there should be a restraint rod
and not the engine mount control brackets.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----
> I'm putting a '66 MGB together that I got as a huge box of parts.  I've only
> worked on a couple of MGs but have lots of TR and AH experience.  I'm
> installing the front engine mounts and am trying to figure out if I need to
> install a control bracket for the engine mount.

From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Oct 12 10:28:27 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:28:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
In-Reply-To: <A31E9FFCC14D42128E2428AC31FE022F@PetePC>
Message-ID: <CABB0E3B.352E8%mvheim@sonic.net>

I also have a 66 B, it didn't have this "control bracket" either, and I
could never figure out what parts were needed or how it was supposed to go
together. So far I have managed to get by without it for 23 years.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 10/12/11 4:28 AM, Peter Ryner at pryner at verizon.net wrote:

> I'm putting a '66 MGB together that I got as a huge box of parts.  I've only
> worked on a couple of MGs but have lots of TR and AH experience.  I'm
> installing the front engine mounts and am trying to figure out if I need to
> install a control bracket for the engine mount.  It is item #40 on the
> illustrations used by VB and "The Complete Official MGB.  I do not have any
> control brackets in my parts supply.  I looked in the Moss catalogue and the
> illustration number is 95.  It shows a part number for the early roadsters
> and GTs with a qty required of 2.  It also shows a part number for later
> cars, two required, but not available.
> VB shows the part in their illustration but no part number so it isn't
> available through them.
> The workshop manual listed above shows the part but states that it is used
> only on the GT.
> Is the part used on the roadster?  If so are two required?  The motor mounts
> have a left side and a right side which are not interchangable.  If the
> brackets are required are the two interchangable - doesn't seem logical to
> me.
> Thanks in advance for any and all help.
> Pete 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Wed Oct 12 23:05:09 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 00:05:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Message-ID: <4E967185.8070609@comcast.net>

23 years is a long time to go without an accident if you drive like I 
do. :^)

I don't know how "original specific" you're intending the build to be, 
but even if your research tells you that the 'control brackets' are 
correct and the engine restraint rod isn't, I'd recommend the restraint 
rod. The purpose of the plates was to prevent the engine from moving 
towards the front end of the car in the event of a front end collision. 
I just put a couple of them back into a customer's car without the rod 
and I can't see how they would do the job as effectively as the rod. 
Mind you, (and I've had this happen to me on a '74 car) that more than 
just keeping the fan blades from trashing the radiator, the restraint 
also keeps the crankshaft pulley from hitting the steering rack and 
possibly bending it, and, as it's the lower half of the pulley that 
hits, prevents possible bending damage to the crankshaft itself as well 
as cracking the pulley. Given the choice, I'd go with both for economy's 
sake in the event of a collision. Originality is one thing, safety is 
another. Neither of these is going to save your life, but the difference 
between a busted up radiator and a bent crank and steering rack and 
busted pulley might make the call on whether to save the car after a 
collision. I can't imagine a concourse judge even looking at the car 
from an angle where he could see the rod and the peace of mind would 
allow driving the car more which is what the car wants anyway, isn't it?

Moss calls it a recoil bracket and it's p/n 413-075. $15 x 2. They call 
the restraint rod a stayrod and it's p/n 413-130. look it up on their 
website and they will show you all of what you need. There's other bits 
to it. It goes between the crossmember and an eye cast into the body of 
the transmission.

Glenn

> From: Max Heim<mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: MG List<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
> Message-ID:<CABB0E3B.352E8%mvheim at sonic.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> I also have a 66 B, it didn't have this "control bracket" either, and I
> could never figure out what parts were needed or how it was supposed to go
> together. So far I have managed to get by without it for 23 years.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 10/12/11 4:28 AM, Peter Ryner atpryner at verizon.net  wrote:
>
>> >  I'm putting a '66 MGB together that I got as a huge box of parts.  I've only
>> >  worked on a couple of MGs but have lots of TR and AH experience.  I'm
>> >  installing the front engine mounts and am trying to figure out if I need to
>> >  install a control bracket for the engine mount.  It is item #40 on the
>> >  illustrations used by VB and "The Complete Official MGB.  I do not have any
>> >  control brackets in my parts supply.  I looked in the Moss catalogue and the
>> >  illustration number is 95.  It shows a part number for the early roadsters
>> >  and GTs with a qty required of 2.  It also shows a part number for later
>> >  cars, two required, but not available.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Oct 13 02:23:02 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 09:23:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] tool to tighten the boot latch
References: <F2998D90-EC25-4357-B5CC-1AF7148437BC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1243B0F1787E4E30948DE462D51004B0@paul>

Make one, you only need a cylinder with castellations cut in it.  I may have 
used channel-lock pliers but end on, or maybe just a drift and hammer 
lightly and just tapped it round, first one side then the other.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Is there a tool available to tighten down the trunk latch? 

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Thu Oct 13 05:45:39 2011
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 07:45:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hmm, ad looks familiar
Message-ID: <303PJmLSn1520S01.1318506339@web01.cms.usa.net>

"Chevrolet is telling Millennials "Let's Do This" with its first campaign
ever
that launches entirely digitally and experientially, with TV coming next
year.
And the TV ads, when they do arrive, won't show the car rolling down a
rain-soaked road. Instead, the Sonic rolls out of the back bay of a C-130
cargo plane at 20,000 feet, parachute strapped to its hood. No computer
graphics involved. Yeesh, now that's driving."



http://www.mediapost.com/publications/article/160348/chevys-sonic-campaign-ta
kes-fantastic-voyage-in-f.html


Douglas
'70 B-GT

From pryner at verizon.net  Thu Oct 13 11:19:00 2011
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 13:19:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting UPDATE
In-Reply-To: <4E967185.8070609@comcast.net>
References: <4E967185.8070609@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <694BB88593104C35AB6B9F4A3320A486@PetePC>

Thanks all for your insight and information.  I checked my spare engine 
yesterday and it had brackets on both sides of the foward engine mounts. 
Although I already have the transmission rod I decided to take the brackets 
and install on my '66 roadster.  After cleaning and painting I attempted to 
install them this morning.  Found that the driver's side worked great,  the 
studs are plenty long enough for the bracket and the grounding strap. 
However, the studs on the passenger side mount are too short to allow 
installation of the bracket.  The nuts attach but only engage about half of 
the nut depth.  These are new mounts from Moss.  I decided that the rod and 
one bracket on the driver's side should be sufficient especially if that is 
what was used for non US markets.
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenn Schnittke" <g.schnittke at comcast.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 1:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting


> 23 years is a long time to go without an accident if you drive like I
> do. :^)
>
> I don't know how "original specific" you're intending the build to be,
> but even if your research tells you that the 'control brackets' are
> correct and the engine restraint rod isn't, I'd recommend the restraint
> rod. The purpose of the plates was to prevent the engine from moving
> towards the front end of the car in the event of a front end collision.
> I just put a couple of them back into a customer's car without the rod
> and I can't see how they would do the job as effectively as the rod.
> Mind you, (and I've had this happen to me on a '74 car) that more than
> just keeping the fan blades from trashing the radiator, the restraint
> also keeps the crankshaft pulley from hitting the steering rack and
> possibly bending it, and, as it's the lower half of the pulley that
> hits, prevents possible bending damage to the crankshaft itself as well
> as cracking the pulley. Given the choice, I'd go with both for economy's
> sake in the event of a collision. Originality is one thing, safety is
> another. Neither of these is going to save your life, but the difference
> between a busted up radiator and a bent crank and steering rack and
> busted pulley might make the call on whether to save the car after a
> collision. I can't imagine a concourse judge even looking at the car
> from an angle where he could see the rod and the peace of mind would
> allow driving the car more which is what the car wants anyway, isn't it?
>
> Moss calls it a recoil bracket and it's p/n 413-075. $15 x 2. They call
> the restraint rod a stayrod and it's p/n 413-130. look it up on their
> website and they will show you all of what you need. There's other bits
> to it. It goes between the crossmember and an eye cast into the body of
> the transmission.
>
> Glenn
>
>> From: Max Heim<mvheim at sonic.net>
>> To: MG List<mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
>> Message-ID:<CABB0E3B.352E8%mvheim at sonic.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>>
>> I also have a 66 B, it didn't have this "control bracket" either, and I
>> could never figure out what parts were needed or how it was supposed to 
>> go
>> together. So far I have managed to get by without it for 23 years.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>
>>
>> on 10/12/11 4:28 AM, Peter Ryner atpryner at verizon.net  wrote:
>>
>>> >  I'm putting a '66 MGB together that I got as a huge box of parts. 
>>> > I've only
>>> >  worked on a couple of MGs but have lots of TR and AH experience.  I'm
>>> >  installing the front engine mounts and am trying to figure out if I 
>>> > need to
>>> >  install a control bracket for the engine mount.  It is item #40 on 
>>> > the
>>> >  illustrations used by VB and "The Complete Official MGB.  I do not 
>>> > have any
>>> >  control brackets in my parts supply.  I looked in the Moss catalogue 
>>> > and the
>>> >  illustration number is 95.  It shows a part number for the early 
>>> > roadsters
>>> >  and GTs with a qty required of 2.  It also shows a part number for 
>>> > later
>>> >  cars, two required, but not available.
> _______________________________________________

From guinness at stclegal.com  Thu Oct 13 14:21:16 2011
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 15:21:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hmm, ad looks familiar
Message-ID: <4E97483C.2080208@stclegal.com>

Here is the link to the "familiar" ad

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIF9ys-hJn0
-- 
Robert Guinness

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Oct 13 17:07:21 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 23:07:21 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Message-ID: <20111013.190721.9134.13@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

    Some sort of restraint for the engine is needed, GT and roadster.    W/o
it, the fan can eat the radiator.
    In my experience with my '72GT, even with it the fan can eat the
radiator.
   #95 in my Moss catalogue, page External Engine, Recoil bracket is, I think,
a plate approx 1/8 inch thick that fits behind the rubber mount block and has
a tab that is supposed to hook on the rubber when the engine tries to leap
forward.  If you can't find one, you could make one easily enough.
    Moss Early Gearbox page, #4, is a stay rod that might actually work. In
conjunction with #95, the engine should stay in place if you dive into a
pothole.
    The '72 GT has a nearly useless rear restraint.  You are in better shape.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner at verizon.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:28:38 -0400

I'm putting a '66 MGB together that I got as a huge box of parts.  I've only
worked on a couple of MGs but have lots of TR and AH experience.  I'm
installing the front engine mounts and am trying to figure out if I need to
install a control bracket for the engine mount.  It is item #40 on the
illustrations used by VB and "The Complete Official MGB.  I do not have any
control brackets in my parts supply.  I looked in the Moss catalogue and the
illustration number is 95.  It shows a part number for the early roadsters
and GTs with a qty required of 2.  It also shows a part number for later
cars, two required, but not available.
VB shows the part in their illustration but no part number so it isn't
available through them.
The workshop manual listed above shows the part but states that it is used
only on the GT.
Is the part used on the roadster?  If so are two required?  The motor mounts
have a left side and a right side which are not interchangable.  If the
brackets are required are the two interchangable - doesn't seem logical to
me.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Pete
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Oct 13 19:15:27 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 18:15:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
In-Reply-To: <20111013.190721.9134.13@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <CABCDB3F.353A8%mvheim@sonic.net>

I'm wondering what you have to do to make the "fan hit the radiator". I've
driven long distance rallies, backroads, and the California highway system,
and I haven't had this happen yet. If you let your motor mounts get old and
weak, I could maybe see a problem.

Obviously, running into another car or a stationary object would cause
damage to all sorts of things.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 10/13/11 4:07 PM, mgbob at juno.com at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

>     Some sort of restraint for the engine is needed, GT and roadster.    W/o
> it, the fan can eat the radiator.
>     In my experience with my '72GT, even with it the fan can eat the
> radiator.
>    #95 in my Moss catalogue, page External Engine, Recoil bracket is, I think,
> a plate approx 1/8 inch thick that fits behind the rubber mount block and has
> a tab that is supposed to hook on the rubber when the engine tries to leap
> forward.  If you can't find one, you could make one easily enough.
>     Moss Early Gearbox page, #4, is a stay rod that might actually work. In
> conjunction with #95, the engine should stay in place if you dive into a
> pothole.
>     The '72 GT has a nearly useless rear restraint.  You are in better shape.
> Bob
> 
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner at verizon.net>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:28:38 -0400
> 
> I'm putting a '66 MGB together that I got as a huge box of parts.  I've only
> worked on a couple of MGs but have lots of TR and AH experience.  I'm
> installing the front engine mounts and am trying to figure out if I need to
> install a control bracket for the engine mount.  It is item #40 on the
> illustrations used by VB and "The Complete Official MGB.  I do not have any
> control brackets in my parts supply.  I looked in the Moss catalogue and the
> illustration number is 95.  It shows a part number for the early roadsters
> and GTs with a qty required of 2.  It also shows a part number for later
> cars, two required, but not available.
> VB shows the part in their illustration but no part number so it isn't
> available through them.
> The workshop manual listed above shows the part but states that it is used
> only on the GT.
> Is the part used on the roadster?  If so are two required?  The motor mounts
> have a left side and a right side which are not interchangable.  If the
> brackets are required are the two interchangable - doesn't seem logical to
> me.
> Thanks in advance for any and all help.
> Pete

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Oct 13 19:46:23 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 19:46:23 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net service
Message-ID: <20111014014623.A6FE12E090@bradakis.com>

Team.Net is going away, I'm shutting it off tomorrow morning.

Okay, relax, it is only temporary.  The local power company will be
doing some maintenence and repairs in the area friday, October 14th.
Rather than risk frying some crucial piece of hardware due to random
power flucuations I'll be shutting down the servers in the morning
before I go to work.  I'll be bringing them back up friday evening
when the power line work is done.

So the email lists, amazingly outdated web pages, forums and such
will be down for most of the day.  All services should be back on
the air late friday, so be patient.

Too bad I'm not ready to cut over to the new server, this would be
a good time to do so.  Oh well, so it goes.

Thank you for your patience.

mjb.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Oct 13 20:55:43 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 19:55:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Hmm, ad looks familiar
In-Reply-To: <4E97483C.2080208@stclegal.com>
References: <4E97483C.2080208@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <FABBAD09-B9BC-4A98-964A-BBFB4121E085@gmail.com>

In the mid 80s Ford tossed a Ranger out of a plane for a similar ad.
Back then I knew a guy that was in video production in Hollywood. He told me
that what we saw on TV was actually the third truck they dropped.
That was because the chutes did not open the first two times.
He gave me a video of the first two attempts.  Very funny to watch.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 13, 2011, at 13:21, "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com>
wrote:

> Here is the link to the "familiar" ad
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIF9ys-hJn0
> --
> Robert Guinness
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Oct 14 01:52:14 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 08:52:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Hmm, ad looks familiar
References: <4E97483C.2080208@stclegal.com>
	<FABBAD09-B9BC-4A98-964A-BBFB4121E085@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5D1CA6EBDA1149C5A16B30FEAF458303@paul>

Like MG, but they only pancaked one - 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/splat2.jpg

----- Original Message ----- 
> In the mid 80s Ford tossed a Ranger out of a plane for a similar ad.
> Back then I knew a guy that was in video production in Hollywood. He told 
> me
> that what we saw on TV was actually the third truck they dropped.
> That was because the chutes did not open the first two times.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Oct 14 02:11:48 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 09:11:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
References: <20111013.190721.9134.13@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <C2DA9BFDE2984543950E74B59F308F8A@paul>

More than 1/8" thick, mine measures 0.175".  It goes behind the engine mount 
bracket (not between the mount and the bracket which would upset the 
alignment), and the tab hits the chassis bracket if the engine moves 
forward, not the rubber - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/mount12.jpg

----- Original Message ----- 
>   ... Recoil bracket is, I think,
> a plate approx 1/8 inch thick that fits behind the rubber mount block and 
> has
> a tab that is supposed to hook on the rubber when the engine tries to leap
> forward. 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 14 04:44:22 2011
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 03:44:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
In-Reply-To: <CABCDB3F.353A8%mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <20111013.190721.9134.13@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
	<CABCDB3F.353A8%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1318589062.10203.YahooMailNeo@web39414.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

________________________________
From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting

I'm wondering what you have to do to make the "fan hit the radiator". I've
driven long distance rallies, backroads, and the California highway system,
and I haven't had this happen yet. If you let your motor mounts get old and
weak, I could maybe see a problem.

Obviously, running into another car or a stationary object would cause
damage to all sorts of things.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
At that point, the fan hitting the rad is the least of the worries!

Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Oct 14 10:30:17 2011
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 11:30:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hmm, ad looks familiar
In-Reply-To: <FABBAD09-B9BC-4A98-964A-BBFB4121E085@gmail.com>
References: <4E97483C.2080208@stclegal.com>
	<FABBAD09-B9BC-4A98-964A-BBFB4121E085@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E986399.3030007@gmail.com>

On 10/13/2011 9:55 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> In the mid 80s Ford tossed a Ranger out of a plane for a similar ad.
> Back then I knew a guy that was in video production in Hollywood. He told me
> that what we saw on TV was actually the third truck they dropped.
> That was because the chutes did not open the first two times.
> He gave me a video of the first two attempts.  Very funny to watch.

Still got them? I would like to see that.

-Rocky Frisco
--

From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Oct 14 11:01:39 2011
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 10:01:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
In-Reply-To: <20111014.095049.11153.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <CABDB903.353D6%mvheim@sonic.net>

That seems remarkably sensitive.

On the 2006 California Melee, I was on a narrow barely-paved road snaking up
a valley through the woods. It was just left, right, left, right, in 2nd or
3rd gear, popping in and out of deep shade, so I didn't even see the dry
ford -- this was about a 12-inch drop with maybe a 30-degree bevel, and I
flew over it, bottomed out, crossed the ford and hit the up-slope with the
suspension fully compressed without even slackening speed. This didn't
manage to shift the fan into the radiator, so I find it difficult to
conceive of a survivable hazard that would do so (short of an actual
impact).

I wonder if the condition of the tranny mounts is also a factor. I have
noticed that over time these sometimes decay to the consistency of jelly.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 10/14/11 6:50 AM, mgbob at juno.com at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

> Dan,
>     One need make no great effort.
>      One drives around a corner and into an unmarked cut made by the natural
> gas utility,  a cut with sharp edges and a drop of about four inches.
>      Engine moves forward, fan eats radiator, crankshaft pulley does not hit
> the rack, fortunately.
>      The gas utility was remarkably accommodating, reimbursing immediately the
> cost of the radiator repair, fan, and broken mounts, as they admitted that
> their crew had not placed traffic cones or lights or any other warning before
> leaving the incomplete job.
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> To: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>, MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
> Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 03:44:22 -0700 (PDT)
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
> 
> I'm wondering what you have to do to make the "fan hit the radiator". I've
> driven long distance rallies, backroads, and the California highway system,
> and I haven't had this happen yet. If you let your motor mounts get old and
> weak, I could maybe see a problem.
> 
> Obviously, running into another car or a stationary object would cause
> damage to all sorts of things.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------
> At that point, the fan hitting the rad is the least of the worries!
> 
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Oct 14 07:50:49 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 13:50:49 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Message-ID: <20111014.095049.11153.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

Dan,
    One need make no great effort.
     One drives around a corner and into an unmarked cut made by the natural
gas utility,  a cut with sharp edges and a drop of about four inches.
     Engine moves forward, fan eats radiator, crankshaft pulley does not hit
the rack, fortunately.
     The gas utility was remarkably accommodating, reimbursing immediately the
cost of the radiator repair, fan, and broken mounts, as they admitted that
their crew had not placed traffic cones or lights or any other warning before
leaving the incomplete job.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>, MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 03:44:22 -0700 (PDT)

________________________________
From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting

I'm wondering what you have to do to make the "fan hit the radiator". I've
driven long distance rallies, backroads, and the California highway system,
and I haven't had this happen yet. If you let your motor mounts get old and
weak, I could maybe see a problem.

Obviously, running into another car or a stationary object would cause
damage to all sorts of things.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
At that point, the fan hitting the rad is the least of the worries!

Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Oct 14 07:54:35 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 13:54:35 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Message-ID: <20111014.095435.11153.1@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Paul,
   Thanks for the measurements.
   I just took another look at mine.   It might restrain the engine if the
accelleration were parallel to the ground, but there is very little overlap
for the tab to hook on the bracket if there were vertical forces involved.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 09:11:48 +0100

More than 1/8" thick, mine measures 0.175".  It goes behind the engine mount
bracket (not between the mount and the bracket which would upset the
alignment), and the tab hits the chassis bracket if the engine moves
forward, not the rubber - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/mount12.jpg

----- Original Message -----
>   ... Recoil bracket is, I think,
> a plate approx 1/8 inch thick that fits behind the rubber mount block and
> has
> a tab that is supposed to hook on the rubber when the engine tries to leap
> forward.
______________________________________________

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Oct 15 05:31:01 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 12:31:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
References: <CABDB903.353D6%mvheim@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <0515AD2ADDB5476CAD7B81889997E361@paul>

Looking at my 73 there is about 3/8" between pulley and rack but getting on 
for 1 3/4" between fan blades and rad, and that is the edge of the header 
tank not the core.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>>      Engine moves forward, fan eats radiator, crankshaft pulley does not 
>> hit
>> the rack, fortunately.

From weberstevej at aol.com  Sat Oct 15 10:51:45 2011
From: weberstevej at aol.com (weberstevej at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 12:51:45 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Transmission Leak
Message-ID: <8ACD6A73-F54C-4027-A884-D5C77179DB56@aol.com>

1959 MGA 1500 with splined yoke and internal tailshaft seal.

I have replaced the tailshaft seal twice and still have oil leaking out at the
seal/driveshaft yoke at the rate of a half pint per hundred
miles. I am using 20W50 oil. This was a frame off restoration. The firstt seal
leaked before I had even driven the car under power. I had not replaced the
tailshaft bushing initially.  I pulled the transmission and replaced the rear
bronze bushing and installed a new seal. At this point the car was driveable
and leaked at the current
rate (.5p/100mi). There was a little wear on the yoke of .0015" on the
diameter near where the seal made contact. To remove that variable I built a
shim of .250", inserted it between the rear end and the
driveshaft to move the yoke into the tailshaft .250" to place the oil seal
onto a virgin portion of the yoke. Same leak rate resulted. When I replaced
the bushing, I did machine in an oil slot in a "X" configuration centrally to
the oil hole similar to the original
bushing. The grooves extended the full length of the bushing to the front, but
stopped short of the rear by at least .250" . I don't know if this oil journal
is allowing too much oil pressure to be exerted on
the seal causing it to leak, but based on the design of the oil "pump" I
really doubt that there can be that much pressure generated. So, with all that
I'm ready to replace the rear bushing again, without an oil channel and
install a new seal.

My questions are;

1. Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions?
2. Can the tailshaft housing/gearbox extension be removed with out pulling the
engine and transmission?

Sent from my iPhone

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Oct 15 11:11:28 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 12:11:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Message-ID: <4E99BEC0.5030405@comcast.net>

> That seems remarkably sensitive.
>
> On the 2006 California Melee, I was on a narrow barely-paved road snaking up
> a valley through the woods. It was just left, right, left, right, in 2nd or
> 3rd gear, popping in and out of deep shade, so I didn't even see the dry
> ford -- this was about a 12-inch drop with maybe a 30-degree bevel, and I
> flew over it, bottomed out, crossed the ford and hit the up-slope with the
> suspension fully compressed without even slackening speed. This didn't
> manage to shift the fan into the radiator, so I find it difficult to
> conceive of a survivable hazard that would do so (short of an actual
> impact).
>
> I wonder if the condition of the tranny mounts is also a factor. I have
> noticed that over time these sometimes decay to the consistency of jelly.

Max,

Everything you are describing about your drive is, for the most part, up 
and down movement. What we are talking about with the engine restraints 
is fore and aft. And the condition of the transmission mounts, oddly, 
includes the restraint equipment installed by the factory. They knew 
that rubber mounts alone would not inhibit damage in the event of a 
front ender. That's why they put them there.

The word 'survivable' is subject to circumstance. I rear-ended a Buick 
years ago in my '74 B. He was dead stopped and I was traveling about 35 
to 40 mph. The car between us had swerved out at his last second and 
left me with no time to stop. I walked away from it but the car didn't, 
partly due to the damage to the rack, pulley and possible bent 
crankshaft. If it was just body damage the insurance might have covered 
the damage. The car was missing one part. Guess which one it was.

Glenn

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Oct 16 15:26:14 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 21:26:14 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Message-ID: <20111016.172614.14248.0@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>

  I believe that this may be a GT situation. The 72 has a restraint on the
gearbox that might keep it from striking the under surface of the trans
tunnel, but it does not appear to offer any resistance to the entire assembly
moving forward.
   After the event, I bought all new bits from Moss, but I think the fault is
of design. One wonders why GT restraint differs from tourers.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 10:01:39 -0700

That seems remarkably sensitive.

On the 2006 California Melee, I was on a narrow barely-paved road snaking up
a valley through the woods. It was just left, right, left, right, in 2nd or
3rd gear, popping in and out of deep shade, so I didn't even see the dry
ford -- this was about a 12-inch drop with maybe a 30-degree bevel, and I
flew over it, bottomed out, crossed the ford and hit the up-slope with the
suspension fully compressed without even slackening speed. This didn't
manage to shift the fan into the radiator, so I find it difficult to
conceive of a survivable hazard that would do so (short of an actual
impact).

I wonder if the condition of the tranny mounts is also a factor. I have
noticed that over time these sometimes decay to the consistency of jelly.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 10/14/11 6:50 AM, mgbob at juno.com at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

> Dan,
>     One need make no great effort.
>      One drives around a corner and into an unmarked cut made by the
natural
> gas utility,  a cut with sharp edges and a drop of about four inches.
>      Engine moves forward, fan eats radiator, crankshaft pulley does not
hit
> the rack, fortunately.
>      The gas utility was remarkably accommodating, reimbursing immediately
the
> cost of the radiator repair, fan, and broken mounts, as they admitted that
> their crew had not placed traffic cones or lights or any other warning
before
> leaving the incomplete job.
> Bob
>
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> To: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>, MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
> Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 03:44:22 -0700 (PDT)
>
> ________________________________
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
>
> I'm wondering what you have to do to make the "fan hit the radiator". I've
> driven long distance rallies, backroads, and the California highway system,
> and I haven't had this happen yet. If you let your motor mounts get old and
> weak, I could maybe see a problem.
>
> Obviously, running into another car or a stationary object would cause
> damage to all sorts of things.
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> -------
> At that point, the fan hitting the rad is the least of the worries!
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Oct 16 16:23:26 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 22:23:26 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Message-ID: <20111016.182326.25165.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Paul,
  No, you are not missing the point. Your MGB is fitted with a sensible
restraint rod.   Others, alas, did not have one, some GTs in particular.   You
see a horizontal bar connecting gearbox to chassis cross member.
   My GT does not have that bar.  Instead, there is a pin of about 1/4 that is
to keep the gearbox from kicking up. This pin does nothing, or almost nothing,
to keep the power uit from moving forward.
   Those of us with certain GTs believe that it was MG that missed the point.

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Paul Osborne <posborne at z.rochester.edu>
To: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
Cc: "mgs at autox.team.net List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:05:26 -0400

I'm going to add my 3cents to this topic. I just looked under my 74 bgt for
this retaing rod. not there. Now I know what you are tailing about and have
seen it on others cars and have wonder what it is for. thinking it was to hold
the powerplant and trans in case of a crash in the car. Might be a good
concept but really, just so it will not hit the radiator. If you get in a
front end crash there is not much up there , it's going to be trashed. Mybe
I'm missing the point .

paul
On Oct 14, 2011, at 9:54 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>   Thanks for the measurements.
>   I just took another look at mine.   It might restrain the engine if the
> accelleration were parallel to the ground, but there is very little overlap
> for the tab to hook on the bracket if there were vertical forces involved.
> Bob
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
> Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 09:11:48 +0100
>
> More than 1/8" thick, mine measures 0.175".  It goes behind the engine
mount
> bracket (not between the mount and the bracket which would upset the
> alignment), and the tab hits the chassis bracket if the engine moves
> forward, not the rubber - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/mount12.jpg
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>>  ... Recoil bracket is, I think,
>> a plate approx 1/8 inch thick that fits behind the rubber mount block and
>> has
>> a tab that is supposed to hook on the rubber when the engine tries to leap
>> forward.
> ______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Oct 17 01:53:38 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 08:53:38 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] mgb engine mounting
References: <20111016.182326.25165.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <726B2B19EBB946E3840CDC15E2AB0B00@paul>

As said some time back GTs originally never had the restraint rod, only Mk1 
roadsters, GTs had the brackets on the engine mounts, as did Mk2 roadsters 
until Feb 74.  From then North American roadsters and GTs had restraint rods 
*plus* the control brackets, other markets not until September 74 and the 
start of rubber bumper production and the round engine mounts when the 
control brackets were dropped from all cars.  A '74' GT could have been 
manufactured in 73, it depends on the chassis number.  Also a PO could have 
not bothered refitting the restraint rod, the control brackets missing on 
cars that should have them seems very common.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'm going to add my 3cents to this topic. I just looked under my 74 bgt 
> for
> this retaing rod. not there. 

From don at napanet.net  Tue Oct 18 11:35:12 2011
From: don at napanet.net (Don)
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 10:35:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] more Morgan Hill car show!
Message-ID: <20111018173542.342F9AE6B7@mail.dsl.napanet.net>

This is a link to Rick Anderson's website where he posted many photos 
of cars at the show on Sunday.  Rick has done professional 
photography and it is apparent in the quality of the photos he 
takes.  Maybe he can teach me how  to take better pictures of cars!

http://littlebritishcar.wordpress.com/

Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1973 MGB GT (selling)
1967 MGB
Misc. Japanese cars  

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Oct 18 14:51:58 2011
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 22:51:58 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] more Morgan Hill car show!
References: <20111018173542.342F9AE6B7@mail.dsl.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <6F6EE2013DFA41298AB4057326BB8F61@uw471de61b465c>

Very nice indeed!
Did you notice the little dog lifting his leg near the big Healy?
http://littlebritishcar.wordpress.com/2011/10/17/autumn-classic-morgan-hill/img_5311/

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don" <don at napanet.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 7:35 PM
Subject: [Mgs] more Morgan Hill car show!


> This is a link to Rick Anderson's website where he posted many photos
> of cars at the show on Sunday.  Rick has done professional
> photography and it is apparent in the quality of the photos he
> takes.  Maybe he can teach me how  to take better pictures of cars!
>
> http://littlebritishcar.wordpress.com/
>
> Don Scott
> Calistoga CA USA
> 1955 MGTF
> 1962 MGA Mk 2
> 1973 MGB GT (selling)
> 1967 MGB
> Misc. Japanese cars
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl 

From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 21 10:53:03 2011
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 09:53:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
Message-ID: <1319215983.52949.YahooMailClassic@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello All,
 
What is the easiest way to remove the 2 shear bolts on the steering lock and
witch assembly for a 1973 MGB?  Imaging something breaking after 38 years. Low
buck or no buck way to accomplish - it has been suggested buying a saw all but
they are rather pricey.
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
Original Owner

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Fri Oct 21 13:26:49 2011
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 15:26:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
References: <1319215983.52949.YahooMailClassic@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <32F906F1B2044DF98F2DE9550C31D6A9@frankdcczr6l6k>

Joel: What I have done to remove those shear bolts is to cut a slit in the 
end of the bolt with my Dremel tool, although I imagine you could use any 
tool that will accomplish cutting the slit. Then they just unscrew.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2011 12:53 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal


> Hello All,
>
> What is the easiest way to remove the 2 shear bolts on the steering lock 
> and
> witch assembly for a 1973 MGB?  Imaging something breaking after 38 years. 
> Low
> buck or no buck way to accomplish - it has been suggested buying a saw all 
> but
> they are rather pricey.
>
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> Original Owner
> _______________________________________________

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct 21 18:03:02 2011
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 20:03:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
In-Reply-To: <32F906F1B2044DF98F2DE9550C31D6A9@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <1319215983.52949.YahooMailClassic@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<32F906F1B2044DF98F2DE9550C31D6A9@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <0LTF000VAXIGBAG0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I never did this on an MG, but the last time I used a drill to remove 
the heads.  Once they were gone, the lock assembly could be 
removed.  Then the remains of the bolts could be removed by hand, as 
they lived in a clean and dry environment.  If I was doing it again, 
I would try a left hand drill bit.  They might just unscrew just from 
that.  Of course, this was all on something Japanese, so I may be all 
wrong if MGs are substantially different.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 03:26 PM 10/21/2011, frankk12 at verizon.net wrote:
>Joel: What I have done to remove those shear bolts is to cut a slit 
>in the end of the bolt with my Dremel tool, although I imagine you 
>could use any tool that will accomplish cutting the slit. Then they 
>just unscrew.
>Frank Krajewski
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>
>To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, October 21, 2011 12:53 PM
>Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
>
>
>>Hello All,
>>
>>What is the easiest way to remove the 2 shear bolts on the steering lock and
>>witch assembly for a 1973 MGB?  Imaging something breaking after 38 
>>years. Low
>>buck or no buck way to accomplish - it has been suggested buying a 
>>saw all but
>>they are rather pricey.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Joel Martin
>>Original Owner
>>_______________________________________________
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/strovato at optonline.net

From strovato at optonline.net  Fri Oct 21 19:21:46 2011
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 21:21:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
Message-ID: <0LTG00L3G15A4BI0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I never did this on an MG, but the last time I used a drill to remove 
the heads.  Once they were gone, the lock assembly could be 
removed.  Then the remains of the bolts could be removed by hand, as 
they lived in a clean and dry environment.  If I was doing it again, 
I would try a left hand drill bit.  They might just unscrew just from 
that.  Of course, this was all on something Japanese, so I may be all 
wrong if MGs are substantially different.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct 21 20:49:23 2011
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 21:49:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
In-Reply-To: <0LTF000VAXIGBAG0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <1319215983.52949.YahooMailClassic@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<32F906F1B2044DF98F2DE9550C31D6A9@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<0LTF000VAXIGBAG0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <4EA22F33.8080508@sbcglobal.net>

I second Steve's recommendation of using a left-hand drill bit.  
Assuming that you have access.  TCs don't have this feature.  The trick 
is to centerpunch the bolt to give a good start for the drill bit.  The 
fastener will usually start screwing out while drilling with the 
left-hand bit.

Regards,
Charles Hill

  On 10/21/2011 7:03 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> I never did this on an MG, but the last time I used a drill to remove 
> the heads.  Once they were gone, the lock assembly could be removed.  
> Then the remains of the bolts could be removed by hand, as they lived 
> in a clean and dry environment.  If I was doing it again, I would try 
> a left hand drill bit.  They might just unscrew just from that.  Of 
> course, this was all on something Japanese, so I may be all wrong if 
> MGs are substantially different.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato at optonline.net

From davewillner at pa.net  Sat Oct 22 09:47:45 2011
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 11:47:45 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
Message-ID: <E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3@valued9cfc0b6f>

I'm doing a major front/rear brake overhaul today on my 70 MGB and ran into a
potential problem in removing the front hub. I have wire wheels, and when they
came off, there was no cotter pin or axle nut, instead there is a maybe 1/4''
threaded bolt of some type sticking out about an inch from what seems to be a
large metal spacer or type of washer. When I tried to remove the 4 nuts on the
hub, the entire bolt turns with the nut...

Am I missing something, is this normal or was it "tweaked" by the DPO?  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From cgmoog at optonline.net  Sat Oct 22 13:41:36 2011
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 15:41:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
In-Reply-To: <E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <4EA31C70.4040901@optonline.net>

Its been a while since I've done the job, but you need to thread 
something on to the bolt and pull it and the attached cup off (I drilled 
a small plumbing pipe cap and bolted it to the cup and then threaded a 
length of pipe to the cap and pulled the cup off).

Under the cap is the bolt holding the front bearings on.  I can't 
remember what prevents the bolt from spinning but it is obvious (cotter 
pin or washer with a flat or pinned washer).  Only other trick is 
setting the free play.

Install the new bearings or clean up the old ones.  Sort the shims from 
thinnest to thickest.  With no grease on the bearings, install the hub 
with the thickest shim only. While slowly tightening the hub retaining 
bolt keep rotating the hub.  If the hub binds stop tightening and 
install more shims.  Final setting is when removal of the thinnest shim 
causes the hub to bind and reinstalling the thinnest shim allows the hub 
to freely rotate when the hub bolt is torqued down.

After finding the shim set you need, disassemble the hub, pack the 
bearings in grease and reassembly with the shims that caused no binding..


n 2011-10-22 11:47 AM, davewillner wrote:
> potential problem in removing the front hub. I have wire wheels, and when they
> came off, there was no cotter pin or axle nut, instead there is a maybe 1/4''
> threaded bolt of some type sticking out about an inch from what seems to be a
> large metal spacer or type of washer. When I tried to remove the 4 nuts on the
> hub, the entire bolt turns with the nut...

From riverside at southslope.net  Sat Oct 22 17:05:03 2011
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 18:05:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
In-Reply-To: <1319215983.52949.YahooMailClassic@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1319215983.52949.YahooMailClassic@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <033E6B446D6F4AFC8EB7D11795E5BF62@rileyPC>

I use a center punch. Put a deep ding near the outer edge and tap in the 
direction
you want it to rotate. They come loose easily. Replace with socket head 
capscrews
(allen head bolts)

Ron Sanborn

-----Original Message----- 
From: Joel Martin
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2011 11:53 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal

Hello All,

What is the easiest way to remove the 2 shear bolts on the steering lock and
witch assembly for a 1973 MGB?  Imaging something breaking after 38 years. 
Low
buck or no buck way to accomplish - it has been suggested buying a saw all 
but
they are rather pricey.

Thanks
Joel Martin
Original Owner
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net



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From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Oct 22 21:02:56 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 22:02:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Shear Bolt Removal
In-Reply-To: <033E6B446D6F4AFC8EB7D11795E5BF62@rileyPC>
References: <1319215983.52949.YahooMailClassic@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<033E6B446D6F4AFC8EB7D11795E5BF62@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <4EA383E0.1020905@justbrits.com>

<< Replace with socket head capscrews  (allen head bolts)  >>

Ah, an advocate of the D.P.O. Syndrome <F> ! ! !

Sad to read and FIRST time I have actually seen a "D.P.O. Wannabe" "teach".

Ed

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Oct 22 22:41:27 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 23:41:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
Message-ID: <4EA39AF7.7080809@comcast.net>

Yes. Moss has just the tool to deal with that and it's one of the most 
valuable tools in the kit and could save you a lot of money in this 
particular job and many others -
Go to http://www.mossmotors.com and look up part number 212-320. You 
will  find it invaluable. A good alternative is part number 212-405. I 
find the two of them in combination work quite well. If you look hard 
you may find the same tool for the TR and the bike. I'm surprised you 
hadn't run across this tool before.

Good luck,
Glenn


> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 11:47:45 -0400
> From: "davewillner"<davewillner at pa.net>
> To:<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
> Message-ID:<E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3 at valued9cfc0b6f>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I'm doing a major front/rear brake overhaul today on my 70 MGB and ran into a
> potential problem in removing the front hub. I have wire wheels, and when they
> came off, there was no cotter pin or axle nut, instead there is a maybe 1/4''
> threaded bolt of some type sticking out about an inch from what seems to be a
> large metal spacer or type of washer. When I tried to remove the 4 nuts on the
> hub, the entire bolt turns with the nut...
>
> Am I missing something, is this normal or was it "tweaked" by the DPO?  Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Oct 22 22:46:20 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 23:46:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Re;  front hub removal problem
Message-ID: <4EA39C1C.2000004@comcast.net>

By the way, I have just donned the Nomex suit.

g


> Yes. Moss has just the tool to deal with that and it's one of the most 
> valuable tools in the kit and could save you a lot of money in this 
> particular job and many others -
> Go to http://www.mossmotors.com and look up part number 212-320. You 
> will  find it invaluable. A good alternative is part number 212-405. I 
> find the two of them in combination work quite well. If you look hard 
> you may find the same tool for the TR and the bike. I'm surprised you 
> hadn't run across this tool before.
>
> Good luck,
> Glenn
>
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 11:47:45 -0400
> From: "davewillner"<davewillner at pa.net>
> To:<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
> Message-ID:<E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3 at valued9cfc0b6f>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I'm doing a major front/rear brake overhaul today on my 70 MGB and ran 
> into a
> potential problem in removing the front hub. I have wire wheels, and 
> when they
> came off, there was no cotter pin or axle nut, instead there is a 
> maybe 1/4''
> threaded bolt of some type sticking out about an inch from what seems 
> to be a
> large metal spacer or type of washer. When I tried to remove the 4 
> nuts on the
> hub, the entire bolt turns with the nut...
>
> Am I missing something, is this normal or was it "tweaked" by the 
> DPO?  Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Oct 23 04:13:55 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 11:13:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
References: <E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <A171CF39013647918652B147DC7025FB@paul>

That's the grease cap.  You can grip the stud with pliers and wiggle, 
knackering the threads, or make up a tool such as this 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/greasecap.htm

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'm doing a major front/rear brake overhaul today on my 70 MGB and ran 
> into a
> potential problem in removing the front hub. I have wire wheels, and when 
> they
> came off, there was no cotter pin or axle nut, instead there is a maybe 
> 1/4''
> threaded bolt of some type sticking out about an inch from what seems to 
> be a
> large metal spacer or type of washer. 

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Sun Oct 23 07:03:12 2011
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 09:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re;  front hub removal problem
References: <4EA39C1C.2000004@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C6BC689EA484AD392D1CB408BE73FF2@frankdcczr6l6k>

Part number 212-320 is for a shop manul? Were you being cynical in 
suggesting it?
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenn Schnittke" <g.schnittke at comcast.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 12:46 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Re; front hub removal problem


> By the way, I have just donned the Nomex suit.
>
> g
>
>
>> Yes. Moss has just the tool to deal with that and it's one of the most 
>> valuable tools in the kit and could save you a lot of money in this 
>> particular job and many others -
>> Go to http://www.mossmotors.com and look up part number 212-320. You will 
>> find it invaluable. A good alternative is part number 212-405. I find the 
>> two of them in combination work quite well. If you look hard you may find 
>> the same tool for the TR and the bike. I'm surprised you hadn't run 
>> across this tool before.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> Glenn
>>
>>
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 11:47:45 -0400
>> From: "davewillner"<davewillner at pa.net>
>> To:<mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
>> Message-ID:<E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3 at valued9cfc0b6f>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> I'm doing a major front/rear brake overhaul today on my 70 MGB and ran 
>> into a
>> potential problem in removing the front hub. I have wire wheels, and when 
>> they
>> came off, there was no cotter pin or axle nut, instead there is a maybe 
>> 1/4''
>> threaded bolt of some type sticking out about an inch from what seems to 
>> be a
>> large metal spacer or type of washer. When I tried to remove the 4 nuts 
>> on the
>> hub, the entire bolt turns with the nut...
>>
>> Am I missing something, is this normal or was it "tweaked" by the DPO? 
>> Thanks
>>
>> Dave Willner
>> Stroudsburg PA
>> 59 TR3A
>> 70 MGB
>> 70 BSA 441 VS
> _______________________________________________

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Oct 23 11:03:15 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 12:03:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Re;  front hub removal problem
In-Reply-To: <4EA39C1C.2000004@comcast.net>
References: <4EA39C1C.2000004@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4EA448D3.5040109@justbrits.com>

LMAO, Glenn ! ! !

<< By the way, I have just donned the Nomex suit. >>

NO 'need' ! ! !  -:)
*************************************************************
And same thing, PaulH ! ! !

<< ...or make up a tool such as this 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/greasecap.htm  >>


whilst that "tool" looks like it would 'work' Paul, it SURE is UGLY ! ! 
!     LOL !
*************************************************************

Now I'll "offer up" the CHEAP and NON-time consuming 'tool' <G> ! !

Requires a visit to your local real hardware store [HUGE sacrifice for 
me = LOL]
and find the screen/storm door repair section.  In my two (2) stores - Ace &
Tru-Value - there are a couple yellow small parts containers and one has 
an approx.
2" long double female [brass in my case] side-side 'nut'.  Take one 
(1).  Also grab
a 12" or so hunk of threaded rod  that fits the double female.  Change 
"departments"
going to the full area of nuts, bolts, washers, bolts, & screws ! !  
Grab THREE (3)
nuts for the threaded rod --- one (1) as a Jam Nut against the double 
female and
two (2) more for the other end of threaded rod making THEM [effectively] 
a double
am nut set-up.

Now proceed DIRECTLY to check-out WITH-OUT stopping in any other department
and keep the [serious] impulse to pick-up something else ! ! !   LOL ! 
!  Now PAY the
nice person the less than $5.00 you own ! !  IIRC my last one was a 
couple pennies
less than $3.00 [I include with all 'B' front end kits at N/C].

Returning home, install assembled "brand spanking new tool" by screwing 
the open
end of the double female on to the Grease Cap Stud.  Now you may select 
the type
of "pliers" [I use med. Vice-Grips] and grip the rod just inside of the 
"double jam
nuts" and pull the Grease Cap out of it's "little resting place" ! ! !
 
Step # 2 of Front End [hub] DIS-assembly to follow.

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Oct 23 11:34:45 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 12:34:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Step # 2 of Front End [hub] DIS-assembly ! ! ! ! ! !
In-Reply-To: <4C6BC689EA484AD392D1CB408BE73FF2@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <4EA39C1C.2000004@comcast.net>
	<4C6BC689EA484AD392D1CB408BE73FF2@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <4EA45035.9080801@justbrits.com>

Step # 2 of Front End [hub] DIS-assembly :

Now that the Grease Cap [aka 'cup'] is out of the way, using [best bet] 
good quality paper
towel(s) clean-out all of the grease from inside that you possibly wipe 
away.  You may  even
have to employ some [BEST selection] brake cleaner or  [second 
selection] carb cleaner
OR [WORST selection - LOL] half a dozen aerosol cans of WD-40 to try to 
just FLOOD the
grease out ! ! !      (could NOT resist - LMAO)

Once grease is away, locate the 'hole' in rear spinner threads and 
rotate hub so that the
cotter pin may be removed after you straighten out the folded-over end.  
This 'Step" IS
one (1) of the more funner ones on the car ! ! !  LOL
*************************************************************
Now just prior to me sitting down at keyboard and 'offering up' my 
prose, Frank K. said:

<< Part number 212-320 is for a shop manul? Were you being cynical in 
suggesting it?  >>
( NOTE for Frank:  Spelt Chexk not working ! ! ! )

Frank, Frank, Frank - SURELY you are not implying that R.T.F.M. FIRST 
should be Step # 1
in ANY repair one is attempting, ESPECIALLY one's FIRST time for said 
job ?!?!?  And/or
"consult the Moss Catalog for Exploded diagram of parts" - anybody 
notice how many time
Moss has been mentioned in this thread WITHOUT mentioning the diagram ??
'Course I am also sure that you would not advocate following The 
K.I.S.S. Rule, right ?!?!?
*************************************************************
Shameless plug for myself:
Yes, I do stock the Shop Service PARTS Manuals for a number of MG Cars 
[and other LBCs]
[ONLY write direct for info, plz !] ! ! ! !


Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
  .   Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

PS:  I also stock a fair amount of MGB & Midget Parts - NOT ONLY Moss 
<G> ! ! !
PPS:  Anyone interested in a 2nd Owner '70 [ORIGINAL & COMPLETE] El Camino
         in need of full ground-up resto ? ! ? ! ? ? ? ?  On my site and 
Make Offer.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Oct 24 01:41:21 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 08:41:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Re;  front hub removal problem
References: <4EA39C1C.2000004@comcast.net>
  <4EA448D3.5040109@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <A3BF0469A4864E17956A10C45D427F7B@paul>

Mine was made up from bits I already had, you can't get cheaper than that 
:o)

----- Original Message ----- 
> whilst that "tool" looks like it would 'work' Paul, it SURE is UGLY ! ! ! 
> LOL !
> *************************************************************
>
> Now I'll "offer up" the CHEAP and NON-time consuming 'tool' <G> ! !

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Oct 24 01:43:22 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 08:43:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Step # 2 of Front End [hub] DIS-assembly ! ! ! ! ! !
References: <4EA39C1C.2000004@comcast.net><4C6BC689EA484AD392D1CB408BE73FF2@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<4EA45035.9080801@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <68A831D87E9E4D5BA5AB0A457EE7D195@paul>

Or lightly hammer socket onto hub nut and undo, then remove the bits of the 
old split-pin.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Once grease is away, locate the 'hole' in rear spinner threads and rotate 
> hub so that the
> cotter pin may be removed after you straighten out the folded-over end. 
> This 'Step" IS
> one (1) of the more funner ones on the car ! ! !  LOL

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Oct 24 08:37:11 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 09:37:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Jaguar Alternator Converstoin
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-d0qY5bzdebC=ius1pebG8eL+2mGX9iT39EiG-yrJUYNw@mail.gmail.com>

A long time ago the local repair shop, long out of business, got a few
Jaguar alternators. They were an exact physical replacement for the MG, but
had a higher output.

Anyone have an idea what Jag they fitted, or a part number?

Thanks,

Jack

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue Oct 25 07:28:34 2011
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 08:28:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>

I've been lurking again for several years; learning but having no mechanical
problems.

We just got back home after 6 months away. I tried to start the MG to no
avail (cranks well) and due to all the other things that need done haven't
gotten back to it yet. The car started and ran fine the day we left.

At the moment, I have only one question; could the gas have gone bad in that

period of time?  The car has sat for even longer periods without a problem
starting.

Thanks,

Monte

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Oct 25 08:24:38 2011
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 09:24:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E8969D7E-B39B-4554-864F-C1281BAFD677@gmail.com>

Gas starts going bad in as little as 1 month.  If you didn't use Stabil, I'd
guess it's pretty bad.

Makes me wonder about these hybrid cars that people rarely put gas in.

Have you confirmed spark and all the usual suspects?   Do you have a can of
starter fluid?

Welcome back, Monte. Hope your trips were fun.

Paul.

On Oct 25, 2011, at 8:28 AM, Monte/Jane Morris wrote:

> I've been lurking again for several years; learning but having no
mechanical
> problems.
>
> We just got back home after 6 months away. I tried to start the MG to no
> avail (cranks well) and due to all the other things that need done haven't
> gotten back to it yet. The car started and ran fine the day we left.
>
> At the moment, I have only one question; could the gas have gone bad in
that
>
> period of time?  The car has sat for even longer periods without a problem
> starting.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Monte
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Oct 25 08:19:25 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 14:19:25 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
Message-ID: <20111025.101925.13701.5@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Monte,
  Yes, gasoline can go stale in six months. If it's gas that is keeping the
engine from starting, it is probably because something is gummed up and stuck.
Once started, the engine will run on the stale gas, though not well.
  Have you determined that there is gas at the main jet?  With air cleaner
removed, does the carb smell gassy?
  Have you checked for good spark by laying a connected spark plug on the
engine and watching for a spark?
  If you have a spark, you can put a few drops of gasoline into the carb, or a
tiny spray of starting fluid (tiny amount only), turn the key and hear it fire
up.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 08:28:34 -0500

I've been lurking again for several years; learning but having no mechanical
problems.

We just got back home after 6 months away. I tried to start the MG to no
avail (cranks well) and due to all the other things that need done haven't
gotten back to it yet. The car started and ran fine the day we left.

At the moment, I have only one question; could the gas have gone bad in that

period of time?  The car has sat for even longer periods without a problem
starting.

Thanks,

Monte
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Tue Oct 25 08:24:50 2011
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 10:24:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <013a01cc9321$daf38ce0$90daa6a0$@com>

I'd check for spark first, then verify you have gas going into the engine.
I've had them run (but not well) with older gas than what you have.
One problem I just had, the fuel pump didn't work. I took it off and just
opened the points with my finger. Didn't see anything wrong so I bench
tested it. Worked fine and has worked ever since.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Monte/Jane Morris
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:29 AM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start


At the moment, I have only one question; could the gas have gone bad in that

period of time?  The car has sat for even longer periods without a problem
starting.

From guinness at stclegal.com  Tue Oct 25 15:50:29 2011
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 16:50:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor wire gauge (thickness)
Message-ID: <4EA72F25.6060302@stclegal.com>

Does anyone know the correct gauge (thickness) of the thin low tension 
wire from the coil ground to the distributor terminal bush.   The one 
the DPO installed is breaking off with a regularity that is off-putting. 
I need to replace it with a new wire.  Moss does not show one for the 
MGA.  Thank you.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Oct 25 16:28:18 2011
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 17:28:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] front hub removal problem
In-Reply-To: <E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <E20A24BB633B4387BECBFCD67228AAA3@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <4EA73802.3070101@ktc.com>

If the brake disc is OK, you don't need to take the hub off.  Just 
remove the caliper.

CR

On 10/22/2011 10:47 AM, davewillner wrote:
> I'm doing a major front/rear brake overhaul today on my 70 MGB and ran into a
> potential problem in removing the front hub.?  Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Oct 25 17:10:21 2011
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 18:10:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Distributor wire gauge (thickness)
In-Reply-To: <4EA72F25.6060302@stclegal.com>
References: <4EA72F25.6060302@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <433167.76414.bm@smtp106.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Moss doesn't show it because it is normally part of the wiring 
harness, bound inside the harness outer wrap with other wires as an assembly.

Most of the wires in the harness are 18-AWG, including the ignition 
primary wires.

Larger wires service higher current circuits, like the horn wiring, 
headlamp wires, dynamo output, and the browm (N) or brown/blue (NU) 
wires around the starter switch and control box


At 04:50 PM 10/25/2011 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>Does anyone know the correct gauge (thickness) of the thin low 
>tension wire from the coil ground to the distributor terminal 
>bush.   The one the DPO installed is breaking off with a regularity 
>that is off-putting. I need to replace it with a new wire.  Moss 
>does not show one for the MGA.  ....

From otis15 at aol.com  Tue Oct 25 17:35:11 2011
From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 19:35:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] timing cover
Message-ID: <8CE6185DF5BE8C5-1B44-6F123@webmail-d147.sysops.aol.com>

I  have  two a timing covers. One with the  timing marks at five oclock
when installed and another at eleven oclock, when facing them. Which is
correct on a 73, v. The marks point out over the edge on the one at
five oclock, the marks on the one eleven oclock set on the very edge. I
believe the 73 v engines have the five in. crank pully and marks at
eleven on the very edge of the cover.
                                        grateful for any guideance

                                                           Thanks in
advance

                            Steve

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Tue Oct 25 18:52:16 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 20:52:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Restraining rod nuts
Message-ID: <4ea759bf.c6c7e00a.3167.000b@mx.google.com>

While checking under my car I discovered that the nuts on the restraining
rod (the piece which keeps the engine and transmission from sliding forward
when you stop) were loose.  I suspect that I forgot to tighten them the last
time I loosened the rear mounts to replace the overdrive isolation switch,
but I am wondering if they should be in pairs so that they could be
tightened against each other and would, thus be less likely to come loose.

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Oct 26 02:06:22 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 09:06:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
References: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <088C3ED5CF3049138CB6881C31126D7E@paul>

Can't speak for the USA but in the UK fuel doesn't go stale, I regularly 
have fuel five or six months old over winter and into spring and it starts 
and runs just fine.

Did the pump chatter away when you first turned on the ignition?  It should 
have as the carbs would probably have evaporated to dry in that time.  If 
not, then there's your answer.  Pumps with points do suffer from oxidisation 
when left unused, even new pumps come with a slip of paper saying to clean 
the points before returning the pump as faulty.

If the pump only clicked once then possibly the float valves are stuck 
closed, although I'd say that was unlikely.  Try rapping the float chamber 
with the handle of a large screwdriver or small hammer.

After cranking with the choke out without starting I'd expect it to be 
flooded, and you would get a strong smell of petrol from the exhaust when 
that happens unless outside on a windy day.  If you didn't get that, remove 
a couple of plugs after cranking a while.  They should smell strongly of 
fuel.  If there is no fuel smell it is a fuel problem.  If they are wet as 
well then it *is* flooded, you can clear that by pushing the choke home and 
cranking with the throttle fully depressed, being ready to release the 
throttle and half pull the choke when it fires.  However you should 
investigate the spark first.

Lay a plug on the block and crank and watch for spark.  If you see a spark 
check all the plugs, and if they are OK check the static timing.  However 
the plugs could be old and not sparking under compression, in which case 
they should be replaced.

If no spark it could be damp in the distributor cap - has the heater valve 
been leaking?  Is the radiator full?  Assuming standard ignition and points 
with the ignition on manually open and close the points by hand and check 
you are getting a small spark when opening them.  If not check for 12v on 
the coil +ve with them open, 6v with them closed.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> We just got back home after 6 months away. I tried to start the MG to no
> avail (cranks well) and due to all the other things that need done haven't
> gotten back to it yet. The car started and ran fine the day we left.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Oct 26 02:13:16 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 09:13:16 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Restraining rod nuts
References: <4ea759bf.c6c7e00a.3167.000b@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <AEAD82C61D76459C9831DC466EBF6C2F@paul>

No, it should be a stiff-nut.

----- Original Message ----- 
> While checking under my car I discovered that the nuts on the restraining
> rod (the piece which keeps the engine and transmission from sliding 
> forward
> when you stop) were loose.  I suspect that I forgot to tighten them the 
> last
> time I loosened the rear mounts to replace the overdrive isolation switch,
> but I am wondering if they should be in pairs so that they could be
> tightened against each other and would, thus be less likely to come loose.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Oct 26 02:11:18 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 09:11:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] timing cover
References: <8CE6185DF5BE8C5-1B44-6F123@webmail-d147.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <83F93AC735DE4FE9A76201A170036DB5@paul>

On a 73 car it would originally have been an 18V at 11 o'clock.  But it all 
depends on what engine (or maybe pulley) is installed in the car now.  You 
need to see where the pulley mark is when pistons 1 and 4 are at the top of 
their bores, and that will tell you where the pointers should be i.e. which 
cover you should have.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I  have  two a timing covers. One with the  timing marks at five oclock
> when installed and another at eleven oclock, when facing them. Which is
> correct on a 73, v. 

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Wed Oct 26 05:29:54 2011
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 07:29:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] timing cover
In-Reply-To: <8CE6185DF5BE8C5-1B44-6F123@webmail-d147.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE6185DF5BE8C5-1B44-6F123@webmail-d147.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <00d601cc93d2$9577bf90$c0673eb0$@com>

My '73 has them at 1100 and on the edge. It's never been apart since new so
is original.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of otis15 at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 7:35 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] timing cover

I  have  two a timing covers. One with the  timing marks at five oclock
when installed and another at eleven oclock, when facing them. Which is
correct on a 73, v. The marks point out over the edge on the one at
five oclock, the marks on the one eleven oclock set on the very edge. I
believe the 73 v engines have the five in. crank pully and marks at
eleven on the very edge of the cover.

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Oct 26 06:52:25 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 12:52:25 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Restraining rod nuts
Message-ID: <20111026.085225.18619.2@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

Amusingly, Moss does not show any nut for the restraining rod.
I would use a pair, as you wondered, or a nylock nut.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss at gmail.com>
To: "Mgs-Digest" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Restraining rod nuts
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 20:52:16 -0400

While checking under my car I discovered that the nuts on the restraining
rod (the piece which keeps the engine and transmission from sliding forward
when you stop) were loose.  I suspect that I forgot to tighten them the last
time I loosened the rear mounts to replace the overdrive isolation switch,
but I am wondering if they should be in pairs so that they could be
tightened against each other and would, thus be less likely to come loose.

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Oct 26 07:05:47 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:05:47 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] timing cover
Message-ID: <20111026.090547.18619.4@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

   1973 engines were fitted with the timing cover that had the marks at 11
o'clock.
   Unless you know that the engine has not been taken apart, you will want to
determine that the pulley is marked for the cover you use. Over the years,
pulleys and covers have been swapped around, so it is best that you check TDC
of the piston.  If the head is on your engine, you can use a small dowel
through the spark plug hole. Though imprecise, it's sufficiently accurate to
make this determination.
    John Twist advises that all MGB engines be timed at 32 BTDC at 3500-4000
rpm.  As your cover is off the engine, this would be an opportune time to weld
a mark at 32 degrees.
Bob




---------- Original Message ----------
From: otis15 at aol.com
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] timing cover
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 19:35:11 -0400 (EDT)

I  have  two a timing covers. One with the  timing marks at five oclock
when installed and another at eleven oclock, when facing them. Which is
correct on a 73, v. The marks point out over the edge on the one at
five oclock, the marks on the one eleven oclock set on the very edge. I
believe the 73 v engines have the five in. crank pully and marks at
eleven on the very edge of the cover.
                                        grateful for any guideance

                                                           Thanks in
advance

                            Steve
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Oct 26 08:01:30 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 15:01:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Restraining rod nuts
References: <20111026.085225.18619.2@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <79098C4ED7924421BCBB144094A81F41@paul>

But then it doesn't show any nuts.

Even more amusingly (if you try to use their diagram as an aid to 
reassembly) it shows the rod and bellhousing bracket the wrong way round ...

Incidentally there should be a plain nut on the rod first, then through the 
bushes and bracketry, then the stiff-nut.  When assembled the plain nut is 
unscrewed until it contacts the front plate, then the stiff-nut is tightened 
onto the back plate.  There is a spacer through the middle of the bushes and 
bracket, and the nuts tighten onto this.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Amusingly, Moss does not show any nut for the restraining rod.

From montejane at gmail.com  Wed Oct 26 11:11:06 2011
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 12:11:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
In-Reply-To: <088C3ED5CF3049138CB6881C31126D7E@paul>
References: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<088C3ED5CF3049138CB6881C31126D7E@paul>
Message-ID: <CAHEsxHrCM_dMVCOBUAGAaS=Qp1wNvGmyJE4MG_FWd1hOLyL9+g@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who responded; it always amazes me how quickly one can get
help on this list!
We still are unpacking and getting the house back into order, so I've had no
chance to look at the MG yet. One quick observation is that the pump did
"chatter" for about 20-30 seconds.  So I figure it is working; but I may
have to "whack" it a little if there is no gas coming out of the carb inlet
hose.
I'll let everyone know what I find out.
Monte

On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 3:06 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>wrote:

> Can't speak for the USA but in the UK fuel doesn't go stale, I regularly
> have fuel five or six months old over winter and into spring and it starts
> and runs just fine.
>
> Did the pump chatter away when you first turned on the ignition?  It should
> have as the carbs would probably have evaporated to dry in that time.  If
> not, then there's your answer.  Pumps with points do suffer from oxidisation
> when left unused, even new pumps come with a slip of paper saying to clean
> the points before returning the pump as faulty.
>
> If the pump only clicked once then possibly the float valves are stuck
> closed, although I'd say that was unlikely.  Try rapping the float chamber
> with the handle of a large screwdriver or small hammer.
>
> After cranking with the choke out without starting I'd expect it to be
> flooded, and you would get a strong smell of petrol from the exhaust when
> that happens unless outside on a windy day.  If you didn't get that, remove
> a couple of plugs after cranking a while.  They should smell strongly of
> fuel.  If there is no fuel smell it is a fuel problem.  If they are wet as
> well then it *is* flooded, you can clear that by pushing the choke home and
> cranking with the throttle fully depressed, being ready to release the
> throttle and half pull the choke when it fires.  However you should
> investigate the spark first.
>
> Lay a plug on the block and crank and watch for spark.  If you see a spark
> check all the plugs, and if they are OK check the static timing.  However
> the plugs could be old and not sparking under compression, in which case
> they should be replaced.
>
> If no spark it could be damp in the distributor cap - has the heater valve
> been leaking?  Is the radiator full?  Assuming standard ignition and points
> with the ignition on manually open and close the points by hand and check
> you are getting a small spark when opening them.  If not check for 12v on
> the coil +ve with them open, 6v with them closed.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> We just got back home after 6 months away. I tried to start the MG to no
>> avail (cranks well) and due to all the other things that need done haven't
>> gotten back to it yet. The car started and ran fine the day we left.

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Wed Oct 26 12:02:44 2011
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:02:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
In-Reply-To: <CAHEsxHrCM_dMVCOBUAGAaS=Qp1wNvGmyJE4MG_FWd1hOLyL9+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHp+nJrU5n2yua6PtWo9=nFAMAri0ypLDv0Qt+_5z6tajQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<088C3ED5CF3049138CB6881C31126D7E@paul>
	<CAHEsxHrCM_dMVCOBUAGAaS=Qp1wNvGmyJE4MG_FWd1hOLyL9+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <027a01cc9409$76345760$629d0620$@com>

That sounds like the pump is working, that is what I would expect to
pressurize the system.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Monte/Jane Morris
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 1:11 PM
To: Paul Hunt
Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79B won't start

Thanks to all who responded; it always amazes me how quickly one can get
help on this list!
We still are unpacking and getting the house back into order, so I've had no
chance to look at the MG yet. One quick observation is that the pump did
"chatter" for about 20-30 seconds.  So I figure it is working; but I may
have to "whack" it a little if there is no gas coming out of the carb inlet
hose.

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Oct 26 16:25:25 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 22:25:25 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] 79B won't start
Message-ID: <20111026.182525.21245.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

Hi Monte,
   Since the pump pumped for 20-30 seconds, it should be working.  A pump
fills the system, then shuts off, and it takes 20 seconds or so to do that.
   Check for spark, and that there is fuel at the jet.
    Is your engine fitted with the ZS carb?  Its choke could be stuck open.
   Check for spark first.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
To: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79B won't start
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 12:11:06 -0500

Thanks to all who responded; it always amazes me how quickly one can get
help on this list!
We still are unpacking and getting the house back into order, so I've had no
chance to look at the MG yet. One quick observation is that the pump did
"chatter" for about 20-30 seconds.  So I figure it is working; but I may
have to "whack" it a little if there is no gas coming out of the carb inlet
hose.
I'll let everyone know what I find out.
Monte

From Lister at Bonackers.com  Thu Oct 27 07:33:53 2011
From: Lister at Bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 08:33:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1973 MGB body for sale
Message-ID: <00e201cc94ad$13927480$3ab75d80$@Bonackers.com>

I bought the car for parts, remaining bits to dispose include:

Body with windshield, rear and front suspension and chrome bumpers attached.
Bonnet present but detached.

Non-overdrive transmission and clutch present but detached.

Some other chrome bits remaining on body.

Rostyle wheels with tires.

This car body has no title.


Scott Bonacker
Rogersville, MO

From davewillner at pa.net  Sat Oct 29 10:37:11 2011
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 12:37:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP
Message-ID: <2886BB66741B4180814E3A3981A59A20@valued9cfc0b6f>

I've spent the last 2 hours trying to fit the curved retaining ring into the
channel on the rear wheel cylinder to hold it in place. This is the curved one
with three tabs that I believe fit into the grove. The frozen original one
doesn't have a channel or retaining ring and they came out fairly easily,
except for one...Anyway what's the trick to snapping these in place, does the
curve face up or down, how does one fit it in place? I've tried almost
everything... thanks, appreciate the help

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sat Oct 29 11:45:15 2011
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 17:45:15 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP
In-Reply-To: <2886BB66741B4180814E3A3981A59A20@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <2886BB66741B4180814E3A3981A59A20@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <E7D7B13F08EBC4438FAEAFB46F80C1FA35797823@BILEXMB01.msubillings.edu>

The last few I have done went smoothly after I figured it out. Curvature -
some I have used were flat. Curved ones - where center is lower (prongs out) -
lower on the inside when installing if that makes sense. I install from the
upper side, engage the two outer prongs to the brake cylinder ring just so it
stays in position. Then I use a hammer, usually with a punch, to rap the upper
end of the ring, pushing it in place. The problem is that you need to push the
ring into place but it needs sufficient force, thus a hammer or other device
to present a little additional pressure and it slides right in.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of davewillner
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2011 10:37 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP

I've spent the last 2 hours trying to fit the curved retaining ring into the
channel on the rear wheel cylinder to hold it in place. This is the curved one
with three tabs that I believe fit into the grove. The frozen original one
doesn't have a channel or retaining ring and they came out fairly easily,
except for one...Anyway what's the trick to snapping these in place, does the
curve face up or down, how does one fit it in place? I've tried almost
everything... thanks, appreciate the help

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Oct 29 16:58:19 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 17:58:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Re;  Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP
Message-ID: <4EAC850B.9040005@comcast.net>

I've started taking a file or die grinder to the little bastards. You'll 
notice the side 'ears' have two lobes and the angle from the point to 
the first lobe is kind of steep. I take a die grinder to the opening and 
soften the angle a little so the damned thing stays put while I can get 
a hammer and punch or screwdriver and drive it the rest of the way in. 
Don't take too much off or you run the risk of it coming out later when 
you don't want it to.

Glenn

> Subject: [Mgs] Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP
> Message-ID:<2886BB66741B4180814E3A3981A59A20 at valued9cfc0b6f>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I've spent the last 2 hours trying to fit the curved retaining ring into the
> channel on the rear wheel cylinder to hold it in place. This is the curved one
> with three tabs that I believe fit into the grove. The frozen original one
> doesn't have a channel or retaining ring and they came out fairly easily,
> except for one...Anyway what's the trick to snapping these in place, does the
> curve face up or down, how does one fit it in place? I've tried almost
> everything... thanks, appreciate the help
>
> Dave Willner

From otis15 at aol.com  Sun Oct 30 06:56:31 2011
From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:56:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] throw out bearing
Message-ID: <8CE6522DCBCC587-18C-82B1@webmail-d072.sysops.aol.com>

Since the list doesn't seam busy today i'll throw out a question. I'm
useing a Moss heavy duty clutch and pressure plate with a new 5-speed
conversion. Which throw out bearing would be best to use. I have a new
original and a new roller bearing type. I believe there were some
issues with the black roller bearing type a few years back. Moss also
lists a AP borg&beck. I want to get it right the first time. You'r
wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
                                                  Thanks

Steve

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Oct 30 07:17:48 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 14:17:48 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP
References: <2886BB66741B4180814E3A3981A59A20@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <CF46B8960F8043C0BD2DF114682C1741@paul>

Made a tool out of plumbing parts http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/eclip.htm

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I've spent the last 2 hours trying to fit the curved retaining ring into 
> the
> channel on the rear wheel cylinder to hold it in place. 

From davewillner at pa.net  Sun Oct 30 08:44:32 2011
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 11:44:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP
References: <2886BB66741B4180814E3A3981A59A20@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<CF46B8960F8043C0BD2DF114682C1741@paul>
Message-ID: <9F243B4082364AD69C91E47EA94CAA5C@valued9cfc0b6f>

Paul,

That's an amazing tool, very creative...thanks for sharing!

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "davewillner" <davewillner at pa.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wheel cylinder snap ring issue- HELP


> Made a tool out of plumbing parts http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/eclip.htm
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> I've spent the last 2 hours trying to fit the curved retaining ring into 
>> the
>> channel on the rear wheel cylinder to hold it in place.

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Sun Oct 30 16:55:56 2011
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 23:55:56 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Cowl vent drainage
Message-ID: <20111030.195556.20023.0@webmail55.vgs.untd.com>

Can anyone give me some tips on how to restore the cowl vent drainage, if any,
in my 67 MGBGT?   Every time I'm caught in the rain, (happens often in Fla),
water gets in and when I open the cabin vent, water slops all over the
footwells.I've poked around with a coat hanger and looked with a flashlight,
but can see no drain hole. Is there one, and if so, where is it?  Any tips on
this would be greatly appreciated.  Guess I need to get one of those magnetic
covers, but I like the ventilation.... TIA,  Phil Bacon 1967 MGBGT

____________________________________________________________
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From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Oct 30 18:44:42 2011
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 20:44:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Cowl vent drainage
In-Reply-To: <20111030.195556.20023.0@webmail55.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20111030.195556.20023.0@webmail55.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <B75EE8A0-AFAD-444C-9361-5057D34A8327@gmail.com>

There is a rubber drain on the bottom in the transmission tunnel under the
car. It fills up with junk.

It's on the passenger side (LHD) of the transmission, near the firewall.

On Oct 30, 2011, at 6:55 PM, Phil Bacon wrote:

> Can anyone give me some tips on how to restore the cowl vent drainage, if
any,
> in my 67 MGBGT?   Every time I'm caught in the rain, (happens often in
Fla),
> water gets in and when I open the cabin vent, water slops all over the
> footwells.I've poked around with a coat hanger and looked with a
flashlight,
> but can see no drain hole. Is there one, and if so, where is it?  Any tips
on
> this would be greatly appreciated.  Guess I need to get one of those
magnetic
> covers, but I like the ventilation.... TIA,  Phil Bacon 1967 MGBGT

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Oct 31 02:05:17 2011
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:05:17 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Cowl vent drainage
References: <20111030.195556.20023.0@webmail55.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <FFF227D8BD174BF78F17B2B078F67E11@paul>

You should see hole down through the right-hand end of the grille, but only 
once it is dry, other wise you will have to prod around until you can feel 
it.  See http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/heatertext.htm#airb.  Be a bit careful 
prodding at it through, the rubber hose is secured onto a spigot and this 
can corrode, violent prodding if the hose is well blocked could break it 
off.  The problem is that the spigot is in a double-skinned portion of the 
tunnel and there is no easy way of getting at it to repair it, and further 
rain will fill the double-skinned part, either draining into the car through 
seams or rotting it out.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Can anyone give me some tips on how to restore the cowl vent drainage, if 
> any,
> in my 67 MGBGT? 

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Oct 31 12:29:12 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 19:29:12 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Cowl vent drainage
Message-ID: <20111031.152912.5775.9@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>

  In the right corner of the cowl vent box is a drain hole, about 3/8
diameter, that passes down a rubber tube through the car. Underneath, up high
beside the gearbox, is a ball-shaped end of the tube that looks like the
rubber tip on the end of a swimmer's snorkel.  Evergreen needles and leaves
collect in that rubber ball, and block the flow of draining water.   This is
Moss part #363-170, in the Heater section, NA in my catalogue.
  From underneath, locate the ball in the stygian darkness and, keeping your
body well away, squeeze the thing gently to open the slit.  A foul mix of wet
goop and compost will probably fall out.  The rubber ball is probably too
hardened to squeeze hard, and I wouldn't try to remove it. You may be able to
push a wire upwards through it, then pull back down to clear the drain line.
  Rinse out the cowl box with a gentle flow from a garden hose, and it should
stay clear for a while.
  Some fit a stainless steel screen under the vent.  Window screen blocks
about 50 per cent of the air flow, however, and there is none too much
initially. I use a piece of black plastic gutter guard mesh, with holes about
5/16" square.  It keeps out most of the maple seeds that twirl down at it, and
reduces the accumulation in the box.
Bob





---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Phil Bacon" <pboldtrix at juno.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Cowl vent drainage
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 23:55:56 GMT

Can anyone give me some tips on how to restore the cowl vent drainage, if
any,
in my 67 MGBGT?   Every time I'm caught in the rain, (happens often in Fla),
water gets in and when I open the cabin vent, water slops all over the
footwells.I've poked around with a coat hanger and looked with a flashlight,
but can see no drain hole. Is there one, and if so, where is it?  Any tips on
this would be greatly appreciated.  Guess I need to get one of those magnetic
covers, but I like the ventilation.... TIA,  Phil Bacon 1967 MGBGT

____________________________________________________________
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http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210
_______________________________________________

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From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Mon Oct 31 21:46:43 2011
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 23:46:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Re;  Cowl vent drainage
Message-ID: <4EAF79B3.5020804@comcast.net>

Phil,

Jack up the front of the car, get your best safety glasses ready (or 
diving goggles, you might have those in Fla.). Underneath, on the right 
hand side of the transmission, just behind the bulkhead, is a rubber 
tube with a spherical end on it that will remind you of a change purse 
that you squeeze to open. This is called the duckbilled tube. It is the 
cowl drain on an MGB. It is also the cowl drain on an XJ6 and  a few RR 
models as well as several other British cars. Don't squeeze it. No 
matter how much it looks like it wants to be squeezed. If all you see is 
a round tube then someone has already taken that step.

Take a piece of wire, preferably something like a solid core 12 ga. 
electrical wire with the insulation still on it about a foot to 18" long 
and coil the end to resemble a drill or just bend the end of it over 
about 1/2". Close your eyes, stick it up into the opening and twist it. 
Even wearing goggles and closing your eyes, you can pretty much bet 
something will get lodged in your eye. Then take another piece of 
straight wire and poke it all the way up. That should dislodge anything 
laying in the bottom of the air plenum. From there, you can attack the 
debris from the top with a soberly equipped shop vac. Repeat the 
procedure until nothing comes out of the bottom of the tube.

You want to be careful not to squeeze it because it is old rubber and 
very fragile and no one makes it anymore. For as many British cars that 
use this item you would think that by this time someone would show the 
initiative, but no one has up till now, and I'm certainly not going to 
with limited funds and a limited market. You can't replace it without 
hunting a NOS part and if you find one it will be ancient and fragile. 
And if you do find a good one, getting the old part out isn't the 
problem. Getting the new one in is kind of like a cross between 
push-starting a Jumbo Jet and having a colostomy bag attached, even with 
the car stripped down for a paint job. It's certainly something for your 
twelve year old nephew who you are trying to get interested in the 
hobby. Unless you want to keep him interested.

Let me know if I haven't instilled enough fear in you. In reality, it 
could probably be replaced with a tube that runs down along the 
floorboards, but BL wasn't thinking that way. The point of the duckbill 
was to try to keep engine fumes out of the passenger area. They stopped 
making it fairly early on which just goes to show you we think more of 
them than they thought of us.

Glenn



> Subject: [Mgs] Cowl vent drainage
> Message-ID:<20111030.195556.20023.0 at webmail55.vgs.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on how to restore the cowl vent drainage, if any,
> in my 67 MGBGT?   Every time I'm caught in the rain, (happens often in Fla),
> water gets in and when I open the cabin vent, water slops all over the
> footwells.I've poked around with a coat hanger and looked with a flashlight,
> but can see no drain hole. Is there one, and if so, where is it?  Any tips on
> this would be greatly appreciated.  Guess I need to get one of those magnetic
> covers, but I like the ventilation.... TIA,  Phil Bacon 1967 MGBGT