From mjanacek at snet.net Mon Aug 1 04:48:34 2011 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 06:48:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E368482.8050404@snet.net> Interesting. In the later picture I note that neither MG is in the bays for repair. Also the "Safety Check" wording style (next to Veedol) looks very similar to the slogan "Safety Fast" style. Mike '79B On 7/31/2011 5:03 PM, mgmagnette wrote: > Thought this was amusing. > > The Octagon Hotel, Circa 1850, where Teddy Roosevelt had his NY state Governor's campaign office at one time: > > http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalhotel.jpg > > And here it is in the 1950's, as an auto repair shop... for MGs! > > http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalmgshop.jpg > > Apparently now it's a complete wreck but the town of Oyster River NY wants to restore it. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mjanacek at snet.net From dave at ranteer.com Mon Aug 1 06:39:36 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 07:39:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: <4E368482.8050404@snet.net> References: <4E368482.8050404@snet.net> Message-ID: <38EBB41DE6B74ECCB02392853853108F@ranteer.local> what's the car on the lift??? -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mike Janacek" Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 5:48 AM To: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's > Interesting. In the later picture I note that neither MG is in the bays > for repair. Also the "Safety Check" wording style (next to Veedol) looks > very similar to the slogan "Safety Fast" style. > > Mike > '79B > > On 7/31/2011 5:03 PM, mgmagnette wrote: >> Thought this was amusing. >> >> The Octagon Hotel, Circa 1850, where Teddy Roosevelt had his NY state >> Governor's campaign office at one time: >> >> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalhotel.jpg >> >> And here it is in the 1950's, as an auto repair shop... for MGs! >> >> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalmgshop.jpg >> >> Apparently now it's a complete wreck but the town of Oyster River NY >> wants to restore it. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 06:53:22 2011 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 07:53:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: <38EBB41DE6B74ECCB02392853853108F@ranteer.local> References: <4E368482.8050404@snet.net> <38EBB41DE6B74ECCB02392853853108F@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4E36A1C2.2030508@gmail.com> Triumph? Simca? Dave wrote: > what's the car on the lift??? > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Mike Janacek" > Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 5:48 AM > To: > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's > >> Interesting. In the later picture I note that neither MG is in the >> bays for repair. Also the "Safety Check" wording style (next to >> Veedol) looks very similar to the slogan "Safety Fast" style. >> >> Mike >> '79B >> >> On 7/31/2011 5:03 PM, mgmagnette wrote: >>> Thought this was amusing. >>> >>> The Octagon Hotel, Circa 1850, where Teddy Roosevelt had his NY >>> state Governor's campaign office at one time: >>> >>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalhotel.jpg >>> >>> And here it is in the 1950's, as an auto repair shop... for MGs! >>> >>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalmgshop.jpg >>> >>> Apparently now it's a complete wreck but the town of Oyster River NY >>> wants to restore it. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 06:57:40 2011 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 07:57:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: <4E36A1C2.2030508@gmail.com> References: <4E368482.8050404@snet.net> <38EBB41DE6B74ECCB02392853853108F@ranteer.local> <4E36A1C2.2030508@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E36A2C4.7030402@gmail.com> Oh, looking again, there's a Datsun pickup and a Datsun sign on the roof. Maybe it's a Datsun. Paul Root wrote: > Triumph? Simca? > > > Dave wrote: >> what's the car on the lift??? >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Mike Janacek" >> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 5:48 AM >> To: >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's >> >>> Interesting. In the later picture I note that neither MG is in the >>> bays for repair. Also the "Safety Check" wording style (next to >>> Veedol) looks very similar to the slogan "Safety Fast" style. >>> >>> Mike >>> '79B >>> >>> On 7/31/2011 5:03 PM, mgmagnette wrote: >>>> Thought this was amusing. >>>> >>>> The Octagon Hotel, Circa 1850, where Teddy Roosevelt had his NY >>>> state Governor's campaign office at one time: >>>> >>>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalhotel.jpg >>>> >>>> And here it is in the 1950's, as an auto repair shop... for MGs! >>>> >>>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalmgshop.jpg >>>> >>>> Apparently now it's a complete wreck but the town of Oyster River >>>> NY wants to restore it. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 07:06:35 2011 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 08:06:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: <4E36A1C2.2030508@gmail.com> References: <4E368482.8050404@snet.net> <38EBB41DE6B74ECCB02392853853108F@ranteer.local> <4E36A1C2.2030508@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E36A4DB.2020803@gmail.com> And the picture is from the late sixties not fifties. MGB, a late 60s Datsun pickup, isn't that a Ford Falcon in the first bay. Paul Root wrote: > Triumph? Simca? > > > Dave wrote: >> what's the car on the lift??? >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Mike Janacek" >> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 5:48 AM >> To: >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's >> >>> Interesting. In the later picture I note that neither MG is in the >>> bays for repair. Also the "Safety Check" wording style (next to >>> Veedol) looks very similar to the slogan "Safety Fast" style. >>> >>> Mike >>> '79B >>> >>> On 7/31/2011 5:03 PM, mgmagnette wrote: >>>> Thought this was amusing. >>>> >>>> The Octagon Hotel, Circa 1850, where Teddy Roosevelt had his NY >>>> state Governor's campaign office at one time: >>>> >>>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalhotel.jpg >>>> >>>> And here it is in the 1950's, as an auto repair shop... for MGs! >>>> >>>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalmgshop.jpg >>>> >>>> Apparently now it's a complete wreck but the town of Oyster River >>>> NY wants to restore it. From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Aug 1 08:20:29 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 10:20:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] brake line question Message-ID: <458E22BAFEFF4BCA92734C4FC8BF10D9@valued9cfc0b6f> I have a hole in my rear brake line and have a question regarding replacement, never done that before. This is the rear line that is mounted under the frame on the passenger side (LHD car) and runs along with the gas line and harness. The hole is right at the rear bend. Is this a fairly straightforward process just finding the connections and bending the pipe and replacing? Anything difficult about locating or getting it placed correctly? Appreciate the help, thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Aug 1 08:29:12 2011 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:29:12 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] brake line question In-Reply-To: <458E22BAFEFF4BCA92734C4FC8BF10D9@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <458E22BAFEFF4BCA92734C4FC8BF10D9@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: Yes, I did this on my 72B after I found a small pinhole on the bend over the axle. Yes, its straight forward - just buy the replacement line from Moss or another parts distributor. It will be straight but is flexible enough to bend slowly using your thumbs. You can also purchase a tube bender from Harbor Freight or another purveyor of cheap imported tools which will make the job a little quicker and save some stress on your hands. Make sure you have a good 90 degree bend on the end that goes into the wheel cylinder so it goes in straight, otherwise it will be more difficult to get it screwed in as well as increase the chance of stripping the threads. Otherwise, just take your time and it should go in easily. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 8:20 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] brake line question I have a hole in my rear brake line and have a question regarding replacement, never done that before. This is the rear line that is mounted under the frame on the passenger side (LHD car) and runs along with the gas line and harness. The hole is right at the rear bend. Is this a fairly straightforward process just finding the connections and bending the pipe and replacing? Anything difficult about locating or getting it placed correctly? Appreciate the help, thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dcouncill at msubillings.edu From pchast at francomm.com Mon Aug 1 08:36:57 2011 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 10:36:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] brake line question In-Reply-To: <458E22BAFEFF4BCA92734C4FC8BF10D9@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <458E22BAFEFF4BCA92734C4FC8BF10D9@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: You need to seriously think about replacing them all. On Mon, 01 Aug 2011 10:20:29 -0400, davewillner wrote: > > I have a hole in my rear brake line and have a question regarding > replacement, > never done that before. This is the rear line that is mounted under the > frame > on the passenger side (LHD car) and runs along with the gas line and > harness. > The hole is right at the rear bend. Is this a fairly straightforward > process > just finding the connections and bending the pipe and replacing? > Anything > difficult about locating or getting it placed correctly? Appreciate the > help, > thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Mon Aug 1 08:51:52 2011 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 07:51:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] brake line question In-Reply-To: <458E22BAFEFF4BCA92734C4FC8BF10D9@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <1312210312.6823.YahooMailClassic@web39410.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello; I've replaced 2 of the solid brake lines on my '74 B-GT. The first was the line from the MC to the right front brake caliper (passenger's side), and the other was to the left (driver's side) rear wheel cylinder. Replacing the front line was something of a challenge because of the bends involved, the rear was easier. You can order the lines from Moss of VB, and Moss also sells a complete kit in which the lines are nickel/copper alloy. I believe the lines composed of nickel/copper alloy are corrosion resistant and easier to bend. I would highly recommend purchasing a bending tool to make your 90 degree bend. You can get those from a variety of sources. I have a plier-type that I purchased from Eastwood, and a lever type that I purchased from McMaster. The lever-type works very well for the 90 degree bend. This tool has a lever which allows you to make a smooth bend (it bends the line around a cylinder on the tool). You can search for that tool on the McMaster website (http://www.mcmaster.com). They have a location in NJ and ship very quickly. I would also recommend you inspect all your lines now to see if more are corroding. If they are, you will want to replace those also. If you do that, you may also wish to replace all the flexible lines as a preventative measure (you're going to have to drain the system anyhow, so why not??). I don't think new flexible lines are very expensive, and it's always good to err on the side of caution with your brakes. Hope this information helps, Matt Milkevitch '74 B-GT Willow Grove, PA --- On Mon, 8/1/11, davewillner wrote: From: davewillner Subject: [Mgs] brake line question To: mgs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, August 1, 2011, 10:20 AM I have a hole in my rear brake line and have a question regarding replacement, never done that before. This is the rear line that is mounted under the frame on the passenger side (LHD car) and runs along with the gas line and harness. The hole is right at the rear bend. Is this a fairly straightforward process just finding the connections and bending the pipe and replacing? Anything difficult about locating or getting it placed correctly? Appreciate the help, thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mmilkevitch at yahoo.com From dave at ranteer.com Mon Aug 1 08:52:34 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 09:52:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: <62783.108.101.143.88.1312154715.squirrel@wm.wi.net> References: <62783.108.101.143.88.1312154715.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Message-ID: just did a quick search on veedol - apparently they were part of bp and are now independent, out of australia I had never heard of them -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 6:25 PM Cc: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's > Dang. Now why didn't I think of that. I just built a new garage and that > would have very neat to do. Nice archival pictures; love 'em. > Dave W. > > > >> Thought this was amusing. >> >> The Octagon Hotel, Circa 1850, where Teddy Roosevelt had his NY state >> Governor's campaign office at one time: >> >> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalhotel.jpg >> >> And here it is in the 1950's, as an auto repair shop... for MGs! >> >> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalmgshop.jpg >> >> Apparently now it's a complete wreck but the town of Oyster River NY >> wants >> to restore it. From redscirocco at hotmail.com Mon Aug 1 11:03:11 2011 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 13:03:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: <4E36A4DB.2020803@gmail.com> References: , <4E368482.8050404@snet.net>, <38EBB41DE6B74ECCB02392853853108F@ranteer.local>, <4E36A1C2.2030508@gmail.com>, <4E36A4DB.2020803@gmail.com> Message-ID: Interesting. Maybe I can narrow the time frame down a bit - the Midget has roll up windows and door handles, so it is a '64 or later model. There is a "BMC Gold Seal Used Cars" banner on the wall and two other BMC seals in view, so it's likely that the photo was taken before the BL merger in '68. Someone has noted that the MGB in the show room appears to be a MK II, presumably because of what appears to be a blacked-out grille. The grilles were first blacked-out in 1970, which was in the BL era, so I'm thinking it could be a MKI grille in shadow. If this was an authorized dealer, there wouldn't be three BMC emblems on the building and no BL emblems. Also, to me, the chrome surround looks thicker than the surround used with the blacked-out grilles. And there is what could be a MKI/early MKII grill emblem at the top center of the chrome surround. The Datsun 411 wagon on the lift looks like a '66 or '67 - the last two years of production before the 510 was introduced. The Datsun 520 pick up out in front of the building was made with four headlights only in 1967 & 1968 before it was redesigned as the 521 in 1969. I don't know my American cars as well as my imports, but the car in the bay looks like a '66 or '67 Ford Fairlane with those square tail lights. If all my guesses are correct, the earliest the photo could have been taken is late 1966 (for the 1967 model-year of the first four-headlight Datsun 520 PU), and the latest would be 1968 (BLMC). The Jag Mark II doesn't add much to the conversation. (Unless it's a Jag 240/340, but I can't tell from the photo.) -Mike Eldred '54 MG TF '73 Midget '51 M38 Jeep > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 08:06:35 -0500 > From: ptrmgb at gmail.com > To: dave at ranteer.com > CC: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's > > And the picture is from the late sixties not fifties. > > MGB, a late 60s Datsun pickup, isn't that a Ford Falcon in the first bay. > > Paul Root wrote: > > Triumph? Simca? > > > > > > Dave wrote: > >> what's the car on the lift??? > >> > >> -------------------------------------------------- > >> From: "Mike Janacek" > >> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 5:48 AM > >> To: > >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's > >> > >>> Interesting. In the later picture I note that neither MG is in the > >>> bays for repair. Also the "Safety Check" wording style (next to > >>> Veedol) looks very similar to the slogan "Safety Fast" style. > >>> > >>> Mike > >>> '79B > >>> > >>> On 7/31/2011 5:03 PM, mgmagnette wrote: > >>>> Thought this was amusing. > >>>> > >>>> The Octagon Hotel, Circa 1850, where Teddy Roosevelt had his NY > >>>> state Governor's campaign office at one time: > >>>> > >>>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalhotel.jpg > >>>> > >>>> And here it is in the 1950's, as an auto repair shop... for MGs! > >>>> > >>>> http://www.chsorgan.org/octagonalmgshop.jpg > >>>> > >>>> Apparently now it's a complete wreck but the town of Oyster River > >>>> NY wants to restore it. From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 11:15:52 2011 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 12:15:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: References: <62783.108.101.143.88.1312154715.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Message-ID: <4E36DF48.1030308@gmail.com> On 8/1/2011 9:52 AM, Dave wrote: > just did a quick search on veedol - apparently they were part of bp > and are now independent, out of australia > > I had never heard of them That was a very popular and well-advertized motor oil here in Oklahoma when I was a young sprout. I think I remember that the associated gasoline was Tydol, so I suspect it may have come from Tidewater oil company. Yup, just googled and found this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tidewater_Petroleum > -Rocky Frisco -- From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Mon Aug 1 12:10:28 2011 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:10:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Thanks Temp Gauge Reading too High Message-ID: <1312222228.99416.YahooMailClassic@web39422.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Listers; Just a quick note of thanks to all the responded about my issue with a temp gauge reading too high. I will be working on this over the next week or so. It's presently pretty hot here in PA so my motivation level isn't very high :-). I'm really hoping for cooler weather soon...as I'm sure many others are across the USA. Thanks, Matt M. '74-BGT From allan.thompson at ntlworld.com Mon Aug 1 12:34:03 2011 From: allan.thompson at ntlworld.com (Thompson Allan) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 19:34:03 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake line Replacement Message-ID: Good advice about checking all of the other line.. Easiest way to make a new line is to carefully take off the old so that it retains its shape and then use that as a template. Allan From mcolson40 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 1 12:37:49 2011 From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com (Milton Olson) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:37:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 51, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > From: mgs-request at autox.team.net > Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 51, Issue 3 > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 12:00:05 -0600 > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Today's Topics: 1978 Midget reverse sliding gear question. I have a reverse sliding gear with the leading tapered edge broken from one tooth. My question is will this damaged tooth cause a problem with engagement? The rest of the gear is in good condition. Thanks for any advice. Milton 78 Midget From strovato at optonline.net Mon Aug 1 12:54:16 2011 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 14:54:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0LP900MAYJALEIE0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Where did these pictures come from? Is there any chance of getting higher resolution photos, so we could zoom in on details? This certainly seems to have received a lot of interest! -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net From mgbob at juno.com Mon Aug 1 13:40:50 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 19:40:50 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Thanks Temp Gauge Reading too High Message-ID: <20110801.154050.8571.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> Hi Matt, A feature of the earlier mechanical gauges is that they will read air temperature when it's above the gauge minimum of 30C. You know it's a warm day when you go to the car and see that the needle is already off the peg. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Matthew Milkevitch To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Thanks Temp Gauge Reading too High Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:10:28 -0700 (PDT) Hello Listers; Just a quick note of thanks to all the responded about my issue with a temp gauge reading too high. I will be working on this over the next week or so. It's presently pretty hot here in PA so my motivation level isn't very high :-). I'm really hoping for cooler weather soon...as I'm sure many others are across the USA. Thanks, Matt M. '74-BGT From don at napanet.net Mon Aug 1 14:35:49 2011 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 13:35:49 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Sales prices of MGs Message-ID: <20110801203726.88B8EAE694@mail.dsl.napanet.net> >I am a big fan of Sports Car Market magazine. This internet device >that SCM has is a cool way to search car values. It's not perfect, >but it can give you quick info and you can get a picture of the >value of a certain type of car pretty quickly. If you click on the >link, you will get sales of Mk 1 MGBs because that is the type of >car I'm interested in. You can change it to other cars and search >by features such as "restored" or whatever. http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-1967/ > >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Don Scott >Calistoga CA USA >1955 MGTF >1962 MGA Mk 2 >1973 MGB GT (selling) >1963-7 MGB (seeking) >Misc. Japanese cars From ddarby at centurytel.net Mon Aug 1 21:09:42 2011 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 22:09:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Octagonal Hotel/Garage 1850's - 1950's In-Reply-To: <4E36DF48.1030308@gmail.com> References: <62783.108.101.143.88.1312154715.squirrel@wm.wi.net> <4E36DF48.1030308@gmail.com> Message-ID: It was Colonel Mustard in the foyer with the candlestick! David From mcolson40 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 2 09:29:53 2011 From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com (Milton Olson) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 11:29:53 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] reverse sliding gear question. 1978 Midget. Message-ID: I am in the process of rebuilding the transmission in my Midget and have a question. I purchased a "good" used sliding reverse gear that has a couple of chipped teeth. The tapered portion of one tooth is broken away. The teeth on either side of the this tooth still have some of the tapered portion left. Even with the damaged teeth this new used gear is a lot better condition than my old one. I will be putting a new reverse idler gear in to run with this used gear. My question is does anyone have experience with this type of condition? How much tooth damage does it take to cause a shifting or noise problem? Thanks for any comments. Milton 1978 Midget. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 09:40:42 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 08:40:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] reverse sliding gear question. 1978 Midget. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3AD2F395-548E-4D40-9DED-D01CF2B51D8E@gmail.com> It is going to make noise. If that is an issue find a better one. Also I would be worried about cracks in the tooth causing breakage at a later date. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Aug 2, 2011, at 8:29, Milton Olson wrote: > I am in the process of rebuilding the transmission in my Midget and have a > question. I purchased a "good" used sliding reverse gear that has a couple of > chipped teeth. The tapered portion of one tooth is broken away. The teeth on > either side of the this tooth still have some of the tapered portion left. > Even with the damaged teeth this new used gear is a lot better condition than > my old one. I will be putting a new reverse idler gear in to run with this > used gear. > My question is does anyone have experience with this type of condition? How > much tooth damage does it take to cause a shifting or noise problem? > Thanks for any comments. > Milton > 1978 Midget. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From redscirocco at hotmail.com Tue Aug 2 10:02:09 2011 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 12:02:09 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] reverse sliding gear question. 1978 Midget. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't know. But I do know that you can buy a reverse gear from VB for under $60. Can't personally vouch for the quality, but if I was was going to the trouble of rebuilding the transmission, I sure wouldn't put any damaged parts back in there. -Mike Eldred '54 MG TF '73 Midget > From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 11:29:53 -0400 > Subject: [Mgs] reverse sliding gear question. 1978 Midget. > > I am in the process of rebuilding the transmission in my Midget and have a > question. I purchased a "good" used sliding reverse gear that has a couple of > chipped teeth. The tapered portion of one tooth is broken away. The teeth on > either side of the this tooth still have some of the tapered portion left. > Even with the damaged teeth this new used gear is a lot better condition than > my old one. I will be putting a new reverse idler gear in to run with this > used gear. > My question is does anyone have experience with this type of condition? How > much tooth damage does it take to cause a shifting or noise problem? > Thanks for any comments. > Milton > 1978 Midget. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com From geoff at 1956mga.com Tue Aug 2 10:19:15 2011 From: geoff at 1956mga.com (Geoff) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 09:19:15 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] reverse sliding gear question. 1978 Midget. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have to agree with Mike on this one. If it's damaged, the cost of a new piece is surely worth the piece of mind. I'd feel pretty silly if i had to re-rebuild a transmission a year later because I reused dodgy parts. Geoff On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 9:02 AM, Mike Eldred wrote: > I don't know. But I do know that you can buy a reverse gear from VB for under > $60. Can't personally vouch for the quality, but if I was was going to the > trouble of rebuilding the transmission, I sure wouldn't put any damaged parts > back in there. > > -Mike Eldred > '54 MG TF > '73 Midget > > > >> From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com >> To: mgs at autox.team.net >> Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 11:29:53 -0400 >> Subject: [Mgs] reverse sliding gear question. 1978 Midget. >> >> I am in the process of rebuilding the transmission in my Midget and have a >> question. I purchased a "good" used sliding reverse gear that has a couple > of >> chipped teeth. The tapered portion of one tooth is broken away. The teeth > on >> either side of the this tooth still have some of the tapered portion left. >> Even with the damaged teeth this new used gear is a lot better condition > than >> my old one. I will be putting a new reverse idler gear in to run with this >> used gear. >> My question is does anyone have experience with this type of condition? How >> much tooth damage does it take to cause a shifting or noise problem? >> Thanks for any comments. >> Milton >> 1978 Midget. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/geoff at 1956mga.com From pryner at verizon.net Tue Aug 2 10:36:47 2011 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 12:36:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <653F1B25BB004068AA46B53301A21B75@PetePC> Has anyone found a source or suitable substitute for the heat shield material for the carb heat shield? My metal is in good shape but the asbestos (I assume) is half missing. Looks like it would be easy to remove the split rivets and replace the material if I could find a substitute. Checked Moss and VB and they only offer the whole shield.$$ TIA Pete From bmills46 at earthlink.net Tue Aug 2 11:46:26 2011 From: bmills46 at earthlink.net (Bill Mills) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 13:46:26 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material Message-ID: <12259639.1312307186804.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Makes me wonder what material Moss and VB use on their shields? Not asbestos to be sure! If removing your old asbestos, be careful to do so in something like a water bath. Once those particles get in your lungs they never leave. Bill 74 'BGT -----Original Message----- >From: Peter Ryner >Sent: Aug 2, 2011 12:36 PM >To: mgs at autox.team.net >Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material > >Has anyone found a source or suitable substitute for the heat shield >material for the carb heat shield? My metal is in good shape but the >asbestos (I assume) is half missing. Looks like it would be easy to remove >the split rivets and replace the material if I could find a substitute. >Checked Moss and VB and they only offer the whole shield.$$ >TIA >Pete >_______________________________________________ From mg1948 at verizon.net Tue Aug 2 14:43:36 2011 From: mg1948 at verizon.net (John Marcell) Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 15:43:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material In-Reply-To: <12259639.1312307186804.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <12259639.1312307186804.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <749F716F-2120-409F-828B-72C966E8923A@verizon.net> AND WHEN WE BREAK A THERMOMETER REMOVE EVERYONE WITHIN A MILE! PHIL On Aug 2, 2011, at 12:46 PM, Bill Mills wrote: > Makes me wonder what material Moss and VB use on their shields? Not asbestos to be sure! > If removing your old asbestos, be careful to do so in something like a water bath. Once those particles get in your lungs they never leave. > > Bill > > 74 'BGT > > -----Original Message----- >> From: Peter Ryner >> Sent: Aug 2, 2011 12:36 PM >> To: mgs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material >> >> Has anyone found a source or suitable substitute for the heat shield >> material for the carb heat shield? My metal is in good shape but the >> asbestos (I assume) is half missing. Looks like it would be easy to remove >> the split rivets and replace the material if I could find a substitute. >> Checked Moss and VB and they only offer the whole shield.$$ >> TIA >> Pete >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg1948 at verizon.net From mgbob at juno.com Tue Aug 2 14:50:21 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 20:50:21 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material Message-ID: <20110802.165021.7692.1@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> I found just the right thing at the nearby performance shop. Someone makes a heat shield kit for Chevrolet starters. It's a fibreglass-looking cloth that will rivet to the MGB heat shield just where the asbestos board once set. There's enough in the kit to make a pad, and it has worked great for me. Ask at a performance shop. The guys suggested this kit as a source for the asbestos substitute, not knowing what a good fit it would be for MGBs. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Peter Ryner" To: Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 12:36:47 -0400 Has anyone found a source or suitable substitute for the heat shield material for the carb heat shield? My metal is in good shape but the asbestos (I assume) is half missing. Looks like it would be easy to remove the split rivets and replace the material if I could find a substitute. Checked Moss and VB and they only offer the whole shield.$$ TIA Pete _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Tue Aug 2 15:46:24 2011 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 17:46:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Original MG parts list Message-ID: <2889FE98-AC8E-4BCE-9123-C12E65066C67@tampabay.rr.com> Listers, Anyone out there have a source to check what old BMC parts numbers go with what cars and parts? Inventorying my parts and need to confirm old NOS chrome moldings and exterior chrome packaging with what cars. I believe all are MG parts numbers. Cheers, TIA Dave Houser From PRNDL at sonic.net Tue Aug 2 19:37:13 2011 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 18:37:13 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Brake line replacement Message-ID: "Classic Tube" can supply brake or clutch lines pre-bent to factory specs. I replaced all of the brake and clutch lines on my '67 B and I am very, very happy with the quality and fit of the parts they supplied. One of the diff rear brake tubes they shipped was for a different MG and they took my old original and created a new one using the old original as a model. Can't say enough good things about their product or service. Saved hours and hours of work and ended up with a better fitting and looking project. -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From ejrussell at mebtel.net Tue Aug 2 19:55:40 2011 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 21:55:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E0038F7AB9543C5A522E2129483274B@EricJRussellPC> A few years ago I bought a sheet of 'Stove Board' from the local hardware store (before the big chain home improvement stores took over and they closed...). It is sold as a heat protection board behind/under a wood stove. I suspect a similar type item would be available from a store that sells wood burning stoves. I cut the stove board into the shape needed to renew the heat shield for our MGB ('78 MGB retrofitted with dual HS4 carbs). To hold it to the metal part of the heat shield I used some large headed aluminum rivets with large washers on the heat shield side. I did not save the packaging but I did save a photo: http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/20347/1138721398044267019S500x500Q85.jpg More MGB photos (including a couple of the installed heat shield) here: http://rides.webshots.com/album/80373254Gnkpzq?vhost=rides Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 12:36:47 -0400 > From: "Peter Ryner" > To: > Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material > Message-ID: <653F1B25BB004068AA46B53301A21B75 at PetePC> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; > reply-type=original > > Has anyone found a source or suitable substitute for the heat shield > material for the carb heat shield? My metal is in good shape but the > asbestos (I assume) is half missing. Looks like it would be easy to > remove > the split rivets and replace the material if I could find a substitute. > Checked Moss and VB and they only offer the whole shield.$$ > TIA > Pete From dwoerpel at wi.net Tue Aug 2 22:57:31 2011 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 23:57:31 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Mgs] Brake line replacement In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51937.173.123.118.164.1312347451.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Ditto, to what Rob said. My Bugeye has the stainless lines and the rear axle sections came with SAE fittings. No problem, they took them back and corrected the problem, no charge. Great to deal with. NFI, etc., Dave W. 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 Burlington WI > "Classic Tube" can supply brake or clutch lines pre-bent > to > factory specs. I replaced all of the brake and clutch lines on my '67 B > and I > am very, very happy with the quality and fit of the parts they supplied. > One > of the diff rear brake tubes they shipped was for a different MG and they > took > my old original and created a new one using the old original as a model. > Can't > say enough good things about their product or service. Saved hours and > hours > of work and ended up with a better fitting and looking project. > -- > Rod Williams > Petaluma, California > 1967 MGB From dwoerpel at wi.net Tue Aug 2 23:09:46 2011 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel at wi.net) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 00:09:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Mgs] Brake line replacement In-Reply-To: <51937.173.123.118.164.1312347451.squirrel@wm.wi.net> References: <51937.173.123.118.164.1312347451.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Message-ID: <52341.173.123.118.164.1312348186.squirrel@wm.wi.net> Oops, sorry, Rod not Rob...too lat at night. Dave W. > Ditto, to what Rob said. My Bugeye has the stainless lines and the rear > axle sections came with SAE fittings. No problem, they took them back and > corrected the problem, no charge. Great to deal with. > NFI, etc., > > Dave W. > 59 :{) > 59 MGA 1500 > Burlington WI > > >> "Classic Tube" can supply brake or clutch lines >> pre-bent >> to >> factory specs. I replaced all of the brake and clutch lines on my '67 B >> and I >> am very, very happy with the quality and fit of the parts they supplied. >> One >> of the diff rear brake tubes they shipped was for a different MG and >> they >> took >> my old original and created a new one using the old original as a model. >> Can't >> say enough good things about their product or service. Saved hours and >> hours >> of work and ended up with a better fitting and looking project. >> -- >> Rod Williams >> Petaluma, California >> 1967 MGB > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Aug 3 01:47:42 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 08:47:42 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material References: <12259639.1312307186804.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <749F716F-2120-409F-828B-72C966E8923A@verizon.net> Message-ID: In the 60s I worked in a telephone exchange where cable holes between floors and rooms were fire-stopped with woven asbestos bags filled with asbestos fibre. Every now and again one would be walking past the end of a gangway to be hit on the side of the head with one of these bags, whereupon mass warfare would break out for about half an hour. ----- Original Message ----- >> If removing your old asbestos, be careful to do so in something like a >> water > bath. Once those particles get in your lungs they never leave. From batangelias at yahoo.com Fri Aug 5 02:51:17 2011 From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 16:51:17 +0800 (SGT) Subject: [Mgs] Crankshaft Pulley In-Reply-To: <009201c4a6d7$69f59c60$0100a8c0@one> Message-ID: <1312534277.84455.YahooMailClassic@web78205.mail.sg1.yahoo.com> Hello All, Can any one in the list please point me to a page where I can get the proper torque setting for the crankshaft pulley of my 18B engine? Thank you. Martin Galan 65' MGB From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 5 03:17:21 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 10:17:21 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Crankshaft Pulley References: <1312534277.84455.YahooMailClassic@web78205.mail.sg1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 18GB I assume. 70 ft lb, according to the Workshop Manual. However that only appears under the 18V section, but Haynes gives the same figure for 'all models' which seems more than likely. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin C. Galan" To: Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Crankshaft Pulley > Hello All, > > Can any one in the list please point me to a page where I can get the > proper torque setting for the crankshaft pulley of my 18B engine? > > Thank you. > > Martin Galan > 65' MGB > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk From mjanacek at snet.net Fri Aug 5 04:29:18 2011 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2011 06:29:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG returns to international motorsport Message-ID: <4E3BC5FE.90201@snet.net> Short interesting read: http://www.rallye-info.com/article.asp?sid=0&stid=9489 Mike '79B From frankk12 at verizon.net Sat Aug 6 13:16:09 2011 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 15:16:09 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] RBB Headlight Switch Query Message-ID: A friend on the west coast asked me for one of my spare headlight switches for his 1978 B. I found a couple of spares in my parts box with the tag ,75-80 MGB, and told him so. After checking various catalogues and Ebay I find that there might be two kinds of switches. The ones I have both have a pigtail of about 12 inches with a three prong connector at the end and connect to the rear of the switch via three push on round electrical fittings. In looking at the Moss catalog and on Ebay I see switches with no pigtail that evidently push directly on. These are also identified as for the 75-80 MGB. Does anyone have knowledge as to which is correct or will either one work? Frank Krajewski From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Aug 6 15:44:50 2011 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 16:44:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] RBB Headlight Switch Query In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6FA02E58-2268-4689-8ACA-88D424F70E49@gmail.com> Mine broke a month ago ('77). I got a new one from Moss. I just had the 3 prongs on the switch. I never took the shroud off the column. On Aug 6, 2011, at 2:16 PM, wrote: > A friend on the west coast asked me for one of my spare headlight switches for > his 1978 B. I found a couple of spares in my parts box with the tag ,75-80 > MGB, and told him so. After checking various catalogues and Ebay I find that > there might be two kinds of switches. The ones I have both have a pigtail of > about 12 inches with a three prong connector at the end and connect to the > rear of the switch via three push on round electrical fittings. In looking at > the Moss catalog and on Ebay I see switches with no pigtail that evidently > push directly on. These are also identified as for the 75-80 MGB. > Does anyone have knowledge as to which is correct or will either one work? > Frank Krajewski > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 8 02:08:43 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 09:08:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] RBB Headlight Switch Query References: Message-ID: <6CFB66164F6A44C4967A63DACC286365@paul> They will all work electrically as the circuits are all the same. The difference was for the shroud-mounted switch which had a short-sub-harness to connect the switch to the main harness down by the steering column, and they have the round pins you mention. Where the switch is on the dash the harness connects directly with spades. I think they are physically different sizes as well. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... After checking various catalogues and Ebay I find that > there might be two kinds of switches. From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 11 20:28:02 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 22:28:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material References: <653F1B25BB004068AA46B53301A21B75@PetePC> Message-ID: <000c01cc5897$75feca80$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Hardie Backer board. You can get a sheet of it at Lowes. Heat resistant, looks like the original when it was new but its not soft and pliable. Its an underlayment cement board. So you cut it with a carbide tipped hacks saw and jig saw. Its about a quarter inch thick and can be attached with split rivets and washers from a hardware store. FYI, the Healey folks have a ton of old asbestos sheets that they have to replace when restoring their cars and this has been a product of heavy use on their cars. The one problem that you will have is that you'll have a bunch of it left over. The sheets are about 4 x 5 ft. That is enough to serve an entire MG club for awhile. This is a nice product to use under the drivers floor on an MGA to reflect the heat away from the wood floors and your tush. There are a couple different styles. The white one with squares on the back is the one. The squares go toward the backside of course. Drop me a line if you have any further questions about it. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Ryner" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 12:36 PM Subject: [Mgs] Heat Shield material > Has anyone found a source or suitable substitute for the heat shield > material for the carb heat shield? My metal is in good shape but the > asbestos (I assume) is half missing. Looks like it would be easy to > remove the split rivets and replace the material if I could find a > substitute. Checked Moss and VB and they only offer the whole shield.$$ > TIA > Pete _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From prbasmith at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 11:15:52 2011 From: prbasmith at gmail.com (Betti Ann and Preston Smith) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:15:52 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires Message-ID: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> Hi folks, Has anyone tried the BF Goodrich Premium Tour tire (185/70x14) on their MGB ? I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the 1996 Michelin X-Ones Preston From shop at justbrits.com Fri Aug 12 13:22:30 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:22:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> References: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E457D76.40105@justbrits.com> Preston: << I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the 1996 Michelin X-Ones >> ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to AGE ! ! ! I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From prbasmith at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 16:25:56 2011 From: prbasmith at gmail.com (Betti Ann and Preston Smith) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 19:25:56 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: <4E457D76.40105@justbrits.com> References: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> <4E457D76.40105@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4E45A874.8090304@gmail.com> Ed, I am sure you meant to say 'would not drive ...' I agree that they are old and probably very dangerous. Interestingly enough, there are no cracks in the inner or outer sidewalls and there is plenty of tread left. Having said that I am replacing them because of their age not their condition. And yes, they should have been replaced some time ago. Preston On 8/12/2011 4:22 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > Preston: > > << I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the > 1996 Michelin X-Ones >> > > ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY > DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to > AGE ! ! ! > > I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! From frankk12 at verizon.net Fri Aug 12 16:32:21 2011 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 18:32:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires References: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> <4E457D76.40105@justbrits.com> <4E45A874.8090304@gmail.com> Message-ID: <611F4790201C48FE80ABFB23603851FA@frankdcczr6l6k> I encountered a similar problem on my 1980 LE a few years back. The original tires were making the car very unmanageable and dangerous to drive. There was plenty of tread left on them but the rubber was seriously degraded so I replaced them. Why is Ed driving around the block on unsafe tires? Good thing someone else didn't make that faux pas! Frank Krajewski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Betti Ann and Preston Smith" To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 6:25 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires > Ed, > > I am sure you meant to say 'would not drive ...' > > I agree that they are old and probably very dangerous. Interestingly > enough, there are no cracks in the inner or outer sidewalls and there is > plenty of tread left. Having said that I am replacing them because of > their age not their condition. And yes, they should have been replaced > some time ago. > > Preston > > > On 8/12/2011 4:22 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: >> Preston: >> >> << I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the >> 1996 Michelin X-Ones >> >> >> ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY >> DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to >> AGE ! ! ! >> >> I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net From 1971mgb at cox.net Fri Aug 12 17:16:54 2011 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971mgb at cox.net) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 19:16:54 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: <611F4790201C48FE80ABFB23603851FA@frankdcczr6l6k> Message-ID: <20110812191654.MFFIM.1379601.imail@eastrmwml49> what is the best tire to use on our mgb's ---- frankk12 at verizon.net wrote: > I encountered a similar problem on my 1980 LE a few years back. The original > tires were making the car very unmanageable and dangerous to drive. There > was plenty of tread left on them but the rubber was seriously degraded so I > replaced them. > Why is Ed driving around the block on unsafe tires? Good thing someone else > didn't make that faux pas! > Frank Krajewski > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Betti Ann and Preston Smith" > To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 6:25 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires > > > > Ed, > > > > I am sure you meant to say 'would not drive ...' > > > > I agree that they are old and probably very dangerous. Interestingly > > enough, there are no cracks in the inner or outer sidewalls and there is > > plenty of tread left. Having said that I am replacing them because of > > their age not their condition. And yes, they should have been replaced > > some time ago. > > > > Preston > > > > > > On 8/12/2011 4:22 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > >> Preston: > >> > >> << I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the > >> 1996 Michelin X-Ones >> > >> > >> ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY > >> DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to > >> AGE ! ! ! > >> > >> I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net From awhitema at panix.com Fri Aug 12 17:30:19 2011 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 16:30:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: <20110812191654.MFFIM.1379601.imail@eastrmwml49> References: <20110812191654.MFFIM.1379601.imail@eastrmwml49> Message-ID: <5D298A08-0818-4385-8A4D-99C6BC8D654A@panix.com> On Aug 12, 2011, at 4:16 PM, <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote: > what is the best tire to use on our mgb's A few years ago, my response would have been "upgrade to 15 inch rims, then go with the Yokohama AVS ES100" Those tires only lasted 15000 miles, but what a glorious 15000 miles they were! Unfortunately, Yoko doesn't make em any more, so any ES100 you can find now has been sitting in a warehouse for a few years. I've been reasonably happy with the Bridgestone Potenza RE960, but as with the Yokos, I use a 15" wheel. -- Aaron From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 12 17:30:11 2011 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 16:30:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: <20110812191654.MFFIM.1379601.imail@eastrmwml49> Message-ID: Impossible question ;-) In brief... In 185/70-14, you have a pretty broad choice of contemporary passenger car tires (not hi-performance, necessarily). But I think these are too wide to use with wire wheels and inner tubes. That puts you back to 175/70-14 -- even less choice. But Sumitomo makes a hi-performance summer tire in these sizes (HTR 200). For the original sizes 155R14 and 165R14, you are limited to expensive vintage replicas and Vredesteins, if you can find them. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/12/11 4:16 PM, 1971mgb at cox.net at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote: > what is the best tire to use on our mgb's > > > > ---- frankk12 at verizon.net wrote: >> I encountered a similar problem on my 1980 LE a few years back. The original >> tires were making the car very unmanageable and dangerous to drive. There >> was plenty of tread left on them but the rubber was seriously degraded so I >> replaced them. >> Why is Ed driving around the block on unsafe tires? Good thing someone else >> didn't make that faux pas! >> Frank Krajewski >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Betti Ann and Preston Smith" >> To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" >> Cc: "MG List" >> Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 6:25 PM >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires >> >> >>> Ed, >>> >>> I am sure you meant to say 'would not drive ...' >>> >>> I agree that they are old and probably very dangerous. Interestingly >>> enough, there are no cracks in the inner or outer sidewalls and there is >>> plenty of tread left. Having said that I am replacing them because of >>> their age not their condition. And yes, they should have been replaced >>> some time ago. >>> >>> Preston >>> >>> >>> On 8/12/2011 4:22 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: >>>> Preston: >>>> >>>> << I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the >>>> 1996 Michelin X-Ones >> >>>> >>>> ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY >>>> DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to >>>> AGE ! ! ! >>>> >>>> I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 12 17:39:17 2011 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 18:39:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: <20110812191654.MFFIM.1379601.imail@eastrmwml49> References: <20110812191654.MFFIM.1379601.imail@eastrmwml49> Message-ID: <768FD6CD4DCA43AEA32A4B4B925E26E8@HomePC> That's a pretty wide open question. What do you want it to do? Best dry traction, wet traction, mileage, lifespan, price, value or ? -----Original Message----- From: 1971mgb at cox.net Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 6:16 PM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires what is the best tire to use on our mgb's ---- frankk12 at verizon.net wrote: > I encountered a similar problem on my 1980 LE a few years back. The > original > tires were making the car very unmanageable and dangerous to drive. There > was plenty of tread left on them but the rubber was seriously degraded so > I > replaced them. > Why is Ed driving around the block on unsafe tires? Good thing someone > else > didn't make that faux pas! > Frank Krajewski > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Betti Ann and Preston Smith" > To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 6:25 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires > > > > Ed, > > > > I am sure you meant to say 'would not drive ...' > > > > I agree that they are old and probably very dangerous. Interestingly > > enough, there are no cracks in the inner or outer sidewalls and there is > > plenty of tread left. Having said that I am replacing them because of > > their age not their condition. And yes, they should have been replaced > > some time ago. > > > > Preston > > > > > > On 8/12/2011 4:22 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > >> Preston: > >> > >> << I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the > >> 1996 Michelin X-Ones >> > >> > >> ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY > >> DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to > >> AGE ! ! ! > >> > >> I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/1971mgb at cox.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 13 02:05:54 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 09:05:54 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires References: <20110812191654.MFFIM.1379601.imail@eastrmwml49> Message-ID: <44DDE855B31F458987B9108E834EFB1B@paul> round ones ... How many different tyres are there? I'm fairly confident you would be able to get a recommendation for each one of them from at least one person. ----- Original Message ----- > what is the best tire to use on our mgb's From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 13 02:20:26 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 09:20:26 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires References: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> <4E457D76.40105@justbrits.com> <4E45A874.8090304@gmail.com> Message-ID: Michelin X did have a reputation for never wearing out, or cracking (like old hoses compared to new) but they do lose their surface malleability and hence grip (BT, DT). But then there can be as much variation in brand new tyres, I had a pair of new US-made Generals on the back of my V8 for a while but they were undriveable in the wet, losing the back end on roads and at speeds I had no trouble with on the old tyres. Incidentally, in the 60s there was a Michelin ad campaign with a window sticker saying "I've learnt the supple secrets of X". It didn't take long for some of us to cut the 'se' out of another sticker and place it before the 'X'... ----- Original Message ----- > I agree that they are old and probably very dangerous. Interestingly > enough, there are no cracks in the inner or outer sidewalls and there is > plenty of tread left. Having said that I am replacing them because of > their age not their condition. From barrie at look.ca Sat Aug 13 08:15:38 2011 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 10:15:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: <4E45A874.8090304@gmail.com> References: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> <4E457D76.40105@justbrits.com> <4E45A874.8090304@gmail.com> Message-ID: Folks, Just as a bit of interest. My 1955 Aston Martin which I am now deep into restoring (robbing banks to pay for it :-) ) has the original tyres !!! Can you imagine it ? Fifty-five year old tyres. But no cracks and good tread - look good - but definite health risks ! At 06:25 PM 8/12/2011, Betti Ann and Preston Smith wrote: >Ed, > >I am sure you meant to say 'would not drive ...' > >I agree that they are old and probably very >dangerous. Interestingly enough, there are no cracks in the inner >or outer sidewalls and there is plenty of tread left. Having said >that I am replacing them because of their age not their >condition. And yes, they should have been replaced some time ago. > >Preston > > >On 8/12/2011 4:22 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: >>Preston: >> >><< I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the >>1996 Michelin X-Ones >> >> >>ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY >>DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to >>AGE ! ! ! >> >>I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From rpschauss at gmail.com Sat Aug 13 08:53:34 2011 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 10:53:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Stripped valve adjuster screw Message-ID: <4e468fe8.47c5e00a.27a1.398f@mx.google.com> I managed to strip one of the valve adjuster screws on my 1980 MGB and would like to replace it. I tried removing it from the top of the rocker arm but I get significant resistance as the bottom of the screw gets to the bottom of the hole in the rocker arm. Is it supposed to come out that way or do I have to remove the entire rocker arm assembly in order to screw the adjuster out from the bottom? Peter Schauss 1980 MGB From pchast at francomm.com Sat Aug 13 09:14:44 2011 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 11:14:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE Tires In-Reply-To: References: <4E455FC8.2050103@gmail.com> <4E457D76.40105@justbrits.com> <4E45A874.8090304@gmail.com> Message-ID: Now no flames.......... I wonder if its worth getting new wheels and tires. Then bagging those you have for the museum you intend to sell the car to for the millions they will offer.(since you have the original tires!) On Sat, 13 Aug 2011 10:15:38 -0400, Barrie Robinson wrote: > > Folks, > > Just as a bit of interest. My 1955 Aston Martin which I am now deep > into restoring (robbing banks to pay for it :-) ) has the original tyres > !!! Can you imagine it ? Fifty-five year old tyres. But no cracks and > good tread - look good - but definite health risks ! > > > At 06:25 PM 8/12/2011, Betti Ann and Preston Smith wrote: >> Ed, >> >> I am sure you meant to say 'would not drive ...' >> >> I agree that they are old and probably very dangerous. Interestingly >> enough, there are no cracks in the inner or outer sidewalls and there >> is plenty of tread left. Having said that I am replacing them because >> of their age not their condition. And yes, they should have been >> replaced some time ago. >> >> Preston >> >> >> On 8/12/2011 4:22 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: >>> Preston: >>> >>> << I am looking for a softer ride than I am getting from the >>> 1996 Michelin X-Ones >> >>> >>> ANYTHING is gonna be better than those OLD & VERY >>> DANGEROUS tyres ! ! ! They arr prolly like BRICKS due to >>> AGE ! ! ! >>> >>> I would drive the car around the block on them ! ! ! >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca > > Regards > > Barrie > barrie at look.ca > 705-721-9060 _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Aug 13 10:57:34 2011 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 11:57:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Stripped valve adjuster screw In-Reply-To: <4e468fe8.47c5e00a.27a1.398f@mx.google.com> References: <4e468fe8.47c5e00a.27a1.398f@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <592620.9320.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The ball end is larger than the thread, so it will not come out the top, must go out the bottom. Start by backing the adjustment all the way back for maximum clearance, then push the rocker arm to one side (compressing the thin spring on the rocker shaft). For the first or last arm you need to remove the split pin and washers to pull the arm off the end of the shaft. You might have to compress the valve spring slightly to allow the ball to clear the end of the pushrod. Once the arm is clear of the pushrod you can run the screw out the bottom. No need to remove the rocker shaft assembly or to disturb any head bolts. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 10:53 AM 8/13/2011 -0400, Peter Schauss wrote: >I managed to strip one of the valve adjuster screws on my 1980 MGB and would >like to replace it. I tried removing it from the top of the rocker arm but >I get significant resistance as the bottom of the screw gets to the bottom >of the hole in the rocker arm. Is it supposed to come out that way or do I >have to remove the entire rocker arm assembly in order to screw the adjuster >out from the bottom? >.... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 14 02:46:44 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 09:46:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Stripped valve adjuster screw References: <4e468fe8.47c5e00a.27a1.398f@mx.google.com> <592620.9320.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <70BFFE44EAEE4FFE84215F90E982DD48@paul> And bear in mind that if it is the nut part of the adjuster that has been damaged you may get resistance as you screw the adjuster downwards as well. ----- Original Message ----- > The ball end is larger than the thread, so it will not come out the top, > must go out the bottom. From twobees at sprynet.com Mon Aug 15 10:48:59 2011 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 12:48:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Automotive News Uses MGB Message-ID: <028c01cc5b6b$3ae3aed0$6401a8c0@normoffice> FYI - I just received a promotional email from Automotive News re. "One week only: Complimentary Access to autonews.com" It features a red MGB. But, only with enough of hood, fenders and windscreen showing that those of us with intimate knowledge of B's would recognize it. You can try this URL: https://home.autonews.com/clickshare/updateServices.do?Track=email to view it. Norm From frankk12 at verizon.net Mon Aug 15 11:35:08 2011 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 13:35:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? Message-ID: My 1980 LE is giving me starting issues. The battery is fully charged but all I get is a click when I turn the ignition key to start. I am suspecting the starter solenoid. I did change the ignition relay only because I keep spares and it is so simple to do but it didn't make a difference. I do have one of those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has been sitting on my parts shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the swap to that starter? Is it a straighforward swap or are there converision issues to deal with? If I have to get to the solenoid I might as well replace the starter while I am at it. Is that solenoid rebuildable if I decide to keep it original? Sorry about all the questions and uncertainty. Frank Krajewski From tink5775 at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 12:16:33 2011 From: tink5775 at gmail.com (Jim Tinkham) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:16:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Are you sure your bat is still good under load?? Mine appeared fine and fully charged until a load was applied. I got only a click too. Tink On 8/15/11 1:35 PM, "frankk12 at verizon.net" wrote: >My 1980 LE is giving me starting issues. The battery is fully charged but >all >I get is a click when I turn the ignition key to start. I am suspecting >the >starter solenoid. I did change the ignition relay only because I keep >spares >and it is so simple to do but it didn't make a difference. I do have one >of >those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has been sitting on my parts >shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the swap to that starter? >Is >it a straighforward swap or are there converision issues to deal with? If >I >have to get to the solenoid I might as well replace the starter while I >am at >it. Is that solenoid rebuildable if I decide to keep it original? Sorry >about >all the questions and uncertainty. >Frank Krajewski >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tink5775 at gmail.com From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Mon Aug 15 12:22:51 2011 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:22:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008e01cc5b78$5853ecc0$08fbc640$@com> Are the battery connections good? As well as ground and starter? Corrosion at one of them can also cause problems. -- Stephen West-Fisher N4IK -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of frankk12 at verizon.net Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 1:35 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? My 1980 LE is giving me starting issues. The battery is fully charged but all I get is a click when I turn the ignition key to start. I am suspecting the starter solenoid. I did change the ignition relay only because I keep spares and it is so simple to do but it didn't make a difference. I do have one of those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has been sitting on my parts shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the swap to that starter? Is it a straighforward swap or are there converision issues to deal with? If I have to get to the solenoid I might as well replace the starter while I am at it. Is that solenoid rebuildable if I decide to keep it original? Sorry about all the questions and uncertainty. Frank Krajewski _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/steve at coastaldatasystems.com From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 12:26:58 2011 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 13:26:58 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E4964F2.7040605@gmail.com> On 8/15/2011 12:35 PM, frankk12 at verizon.net wrote: > My 1980 LE is giving me starting issues. The battery is fully charged but all > I get is a click when I turn the ignition key to start. I am suspecting the > starter solenoid. I did change the ignition relay only because I keep spares > and it is so simple to do but it didn't make a difference. I do have one of > those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has been sitting on my parts > shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the swap to that starter? Is > it a straighforward swap or are there converision issues to deal with? If I > have to get to the solenoid I might as well replace the starter while I am at > it. Is that solenoid rebuildable if I decide to keep it original? Sorry about > all the questions and uncertainty. > Frank Krajewski Frank, there's another rather remote possibility: You might have lead oxide on the battery terminals. Lead oxide looks just like lead, but it's a fairly good insulator. If the battery is fully charged, but lead oxide is present between the terminals and connectors, you might have enough connectivity to energize the solenoid, but not enough to actually power it. It only takes a very short time to clean the connectors and posts with a battery brush. -Rocky Frisco -- From steve at shoyer.com Mon Aug 15 16:40:34 2011 From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 18:40:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Frank, I did the conversion on my 1980 MGB a couple of years ago, after the post on my original solenoid snapped and I couldn't get the wires connected easily. It was a pretty straightforward replacement, not requiring much swearing. If I remember correctly, the trickiest part was supporting the starter while getting the bolts in place. It works well, although the sound of the starter is more different (and less pleasant) than the original. --Steve -----Original Message----- ... I do have one of those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has been sitting on my parts shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the swap to that starter? Is it a straighforward swap or are there converision issues to deal with? ... From dave at ranteer.com Mon Aug 15 17:01:15 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 18:01:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: replacing a starter on a b is not that hard. easy enough, in fact, that I removed it to replace the clutch slave cylinder. the high torque, I believe, is smaller and lighter so install should be easier patience, and nice high jack stands . . . . > > -----Original Message----- > ... I do have one of those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has > been > sitting on my parts shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the > swap > to that starter? Is it a straighforward swap or are there converision > issues > to deal with? ... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Aug 16 02:52:32 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 09:52:32 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? References: Message-ID: <2B4FE81B316C4CBE9E7A607E5F6F972C@paul> Firstly, there can be a soft click or a loud clonk when the starter doesn't actually spin the engine and that is your first diagnosis. The soft click should come from the starter relay on the right-hand inner wing, the clonk from the solenoid low down on the same side. You may need someone to turn the key on an LHD while you listen if you can't turn the key while your head is under the bonnet. If there is only the soft click from the relay then it isn't operating the solenoid, which could be faulty relay contacts, or bad connections where the brown and white/brown wires connect to the relay, where the white/brown connects to the solenoid, or the solenoid winding itself. Intelligent application of meter or test-lamp to the above spades and wiring connectors on the relay and solenoid will tell you which. If it is the solenoid clonk you can hear either it's contacts are bad, the motor brushes or commutator are bad, or the battery or its connections are bad. Look at the ignition warning light as you turn the key to crank. If this dims right down then it's going to be the battery or it's connections to the body or the solenoid, again meter or test-lamp to the various points will tell you which. If the lamp dims not at all or only very slightly it's going to be solenoid or motor, meter or test-lamp will tell you which. There is one more possibility and that is the earth strap round the rear mountings for the gearbox, although that usually causes the accelerator, heater and choke cable to get hot, but will also show up on a meter or possibly a test-lamp as the block/starter motor body voltage rising towards 12v relative to a body earth when the key is turned to crank. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "MG List" Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 6:35 PM Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? > My 1980 LE is giving me starting issues. The battery is fully charged but > all > I get is a click when I turn the ignition key to start. I am suspecting > the > starter solenoid. I did change the ignition relay only because I keep > spares > and it is so simple to do but it didn't make a difference. I do have one > of > those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has been sitting on my parts > shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the swap to that starter? > Is > it a straighforward swap or are there converision issues to deal with? If > I > have to get to the solenoid I might as well replace the starter while I > am at > it. Is that solenoid rebuildable if I decide to keep it original? Sorry > about > all the questions and uncertainty. > Frank Krajewski > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Aug 16 12:32:53 2011 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 20:32:53 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? References: Message-ID: <08B05AF90C1C4761800BC46B127AB529@uw471de61b465c> Hi Frank, On top of all those who already have replied, here is my experience. I had a click only after that the starter was rotating several times at a slower pace. So I suspected the battery and went with it to the battery shop. They measured the battery and it was all fine. So I went troubleshooting on the thick cables, where all the high currents are going through. Guess what - the solenoid on the starter is a central point where all high current cables are held together with a nut on a copper connection. In my case the nut had become lose, because the thread where the nut was screwed on was damaged. So I got myself a new solenoid and mounted it onto the starter. Put the starter and all wiring back and the GT has brought me last month for a 1,200 miles vacation in good old England, where we met Paul Hunt a.o. Good luck and regards to Mrs. Cheers, Hans P.S. I'll send you a pic of Paul and myself at the Heritage Museum ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "MG List" Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 7:35 PM Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? > My 1980 LE is giving me starting issues. The battery is fully charged but > all > I get is a click when I turn the ignition key to start. I am suspecting > the > starter solenoid. I did change the ignition relay only because I keep > spares > and it is so simple to do but it didn't make a difference. I do have one > of > those new Hi Torque replacement starters that has been sitting on my parts > shelf for many years. Has anyone here ever made the swap to that starter? > Is > it a straighforward swap or are there converision issues to deal with? If > I > have to get to the solenoid I might as well replace the starter while I > am at > it. Is that solenoid rebuildable if I decide to keep it original? Sorry > about > all the questions and uncertainty. > Frank Krajewski From harlanjillson at earthlink.net Tue Aug 16 14:58:51 2011 From: harlanjillson at earthlink.net (Harlan Jillson) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 15:58:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB-GT Drip Rails Message-ID: Hi all, It's only been about 5 or 6 years since I've posted to the list, but i've got a question about my project, a 1970 MGB-GT. Has anyone ever seen a GT with the drip rails removed? I've been playing with ideas for body mods, and am thinking about removing the bumpers and going with the Sebring valences front and rear, and was wondering if anyone has seen anything like this, and did they pull it off? Thanks in advance for opinions, Harlan From mgbob at juno.com Tue Aug 16 16:16:25 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:16:25 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGB-GT Drip Rails Message-ID: <20110816.181625.19377.9@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> I have not seen a car without the drip rails. My question is--how would one hold the roof on, since the welds are in the gutters? Interesting idea, though, as they do make quite a bit of wind roar. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Harlan Jillson To: "mgs at autox.team.net" Subject: [Mgs] MGB-GT Drip Rails Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 15:58:51 -0500 Hi all, It's only been about 5 or 6 years since I've posted to the list, but i've got a question about my project, a 1970 MGB-GT. Has anyone ever seen a GT with the drip rails removed? I've been playing with ideas for body mods, and am thinking about removing the bumpers and going with the Sebring valences front and rear, and was wondering if anyone has seen anything like this, and did they pull it off? Thanks in advance for opinions, Harlan _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From barrie at look.ca Tue Aug 16 15:28:02 2011 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 17:28:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB-GT Drip Rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You realise that 1970 ones are unique - they have the split rear bumper. I had one now have another 1970 salvaged and made into a V8 - Rover engine of course ! I must admit I would not destroy a genuine car - why not leave it alone. You can always pick up a sad and lonely body and do what the hell you want with it. But leave the unmolested unmolested. At 04:58 PM 8/16/2011, Harlan Jillson wrote: >Hi all, > It's only been about 5 or 6 years since I've posted to the list, but i've >got a question about my project, a 1970 MGB-GT. Has anyone ever seen a GT >with the drip rails removed? I've been playing with ideas for body mods, and >am thinking about removing the bumpers and going with the Sebring valences >front and rear, and was wondering if anyone has seen anything like this, and >did they pull it off? >Thanks in advance for opinions, >Harlan >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 16 18:29:28 2011 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 19:29:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition Message-ID: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC> I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, wiring harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and clutch. NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to be in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in new parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a nice rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. Photos available. Larry Daniels From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 16 18:33:06 2011 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 19:33:06 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC> References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC> Message-ID: <54F0D4F66C884D5DA71A6A00D117203A@HomePC> Forgot to mention, the car is in Oshkosh, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Larry Daniels Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, wiring harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and clutch. NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to be in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in new parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a nice rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. Photos available. Larry Daniels _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From g.schnittke at comcast.net Tue Aug 16 21:37:56 2011 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:37:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Starter Issues? Message-ID: <4E4B3794.5090605@comcast.net> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Starter Issues? > Message-ID:<4E4964F2.7040605 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > On 8/15/2011 12:35 PM,frankk12 at verizon.net wrote: >> My 1980 LE is giving me starting issues. Others have made the usual suspect options for what the problem could be. Paul has a good roundup of solutions and tests. Some things not mentioned; it might be contact inside the ignition switch. I've had this show up several times when I thought I'd go out of my mind hunting the problem down.I wasn't getting enough amperage through the ignition switch to activate the system. Another problem (that I'm starting to suspect on my car ('67) is the flywheel flatting out. I put in a freshly rebuilt starter from a reputable local rebuilder and within months it started doing the same thing - loud click, no start. The new one is a month old and I'm pretty sure it's not the starter or the solenoid (loud click as referenced before only louder). That may be a part of it. There may be three levels of loud - relay, solenoid and flywheel. If it's a Really Loud Click, try putting the transmission through the gears (including reverse) and hit it again. Then put it in gear and rock the car back and forth. If that doesn't do it you're probably free of flywheel problems. If you do decide to go with the new starter, pull your distributor out first. If you're attacking from higher ground you can pull it up through that hole. If you're coming from underneath you'll need the room to turn it over 180 degrees to get it out. Even if you're on your back I'd still say it's easier coming out from underneath. I haven't played with a hi-torque but you'll need that to get the old one out. I will reiterate the cable connections at the battery and the condition of the battery itself. There's an old saying - 'It's not the voltage that will kill you, it's the amperage.' We get batteries all the time at the shop that show 12.5 volts but don't have the amperage left to apply them. But start by cleaning the terminals and cable clamps. Even if they look clean. If you don't have a battery brush, sandpaper or a pocket knife will do. Just get down to shiny new lead. Glenn From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Aug 16 22:29:28 2011 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 21:29:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? Message-ID: I received a couple of emails from Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign up for these and I was wondering if other people on the MGS list also received them? Simon From leylandauto at yahoo.com Tue Aug 16 22:56:00 2011 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 21:56:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1313556960.39524.YahooMailClassic@web113313.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> >From two different names as well. One of them a Duntov! I marked them as spam in my filter. Carl --- On Wed, 8/17/11, Simon Matthews wrote: From: Simon Matthews Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? To: "MGS" Date: Wednesday, August 17, 2011, 12:29 AM I received a couple of emails from Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign up for these and I was wondering if other people on the MGS list also received them? Simon _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/leylandauto at yahoo.com From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Aug 16 23:15:22 2011 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:15:22 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? In-Reply-To: <54E47626-42DC-42C8-B5ED-2639ACEB16FB@internode.on.net> References: <54E47626-42DC-42C8-B5ED-2639ACEB16FB@internode.on.net> Message-ID: I suspected as much. I forwarded their emails to "abuse at icontact.com" with a clear statement that I had not opted in. Simon On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 9:35 PM, Eric wrote: > > On 17/08/2011, at 1:59 PM, Simon Matthews wrote: > >> I received a couple of emails from Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign >> up for these and I was wondering if other people on the MGS list also >> received them? > > > Yeah - cool cars. From palte at gmx.net Wed Aug 17 00:18:35 2011 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 08:18:35 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Re: Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? Message-ID: <20110817061835.19900@gmx.net> Same here. I am not interested in their E-mails. Lets see if I can opt out with success. Bert -------- Original-Nachricht -------- > Datum: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:15:22 -0700 > Von: Simon Matthews > An: Eric > CC: MGS > Betreff: Re: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? > I suspected as much. I forwarded their emails to "abuse at icontact.com" > with a clear statement that I had not opted in. > > Simon > > On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 9:35 PM, Eric wrote: > > > > On 17/08/2011, at 1:59 PM, Simon Matthews wrote: > > > >> I received a couple of emails from Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign > >> up for these and I was wondering if other people on the MGS list also > >> received them? -- NEU: FreePhone - 0ct/min Handyspartarif mit Geld-zurC Message-ID: That can certainly be a cause of no starting, but would also result in no clicking as well. If you get any click at all, then at the very least the relay must be operating, so the ignition switch must be functioning well enough. ----- Original Message ----- > Some things not mentioned; it might be contact inside the ignition switch. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Aug 17 08:32:28 2011 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:32:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1313591548.95624.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Nope, not me. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Simon Matthews To: MGS Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 12:29 AM Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? I received a couple of emails from Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign up for these and I was wondering if other people on the MGS list also received them? Simon _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Aug 17 08:37:49 2011 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 09:37:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? In-Reply-To: <1313591548.95624.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1313591548.95624.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2A205BA3-653B-4EF9-B8CC-D7F9725545C8@gmail.com> I got them. On Aug 17, 2011, at 9:32 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Nope, not me. > > __ > From: Simon Matthews > > To: MGS > Sent: Wednesday, > August 17, 2011 12:29 AM > Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from > "Americanhotrods.com"? > > I received a couple of emails from > Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign > up for these and I was wondering if other > people on the MGS list also > received them? From frankk12 at verizon.net Wed Aug 17 09:40:35 2011 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:40:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? References: Message-ID: Yes Simon. I got them too. Frank Krajewski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Matthews" To: "MGS" Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 12:29 AM Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? >I received a couple of emails from Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign > up for these and I was wondering if other people on the MGS list also > received them? > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/frankk12 at verizon.net From barrie at look.ca Wed Aug 17 09:39:05 2011 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:39:05 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Has anyone else received emails from "Americanhotrods.com"? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Simon, Yes, I got an email from American Hot Rods too At 12:29 AM 8/17/2011, Simon Matthews wrote: >I received a couple of emails from Americanhotrods.com. I did not sign >up for these and I was wondering if other people on the MGS list also >received them? > >Simon >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Thu Aug 18 20:25:54 2011 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 02:25:54 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires Message-ID: My 64B, although running good, has an intermittent misfire which I believe is due to a problem with the ignition wire (plug #3) or cap. Replaced spark plugs - #3 still showing soot deposits on the white insulator, compression 150 +/- 5 psi on all 4 cylinders (cold). But anyway, I figured I would replace cap and ignition wires, the problem is that Moss wants a princely sum for the archaic cap with its spike connectors and the basic wires. The ignition wire set lists at $42.95 versus $12.95 for the top entry style. But Moss is also pushing the Cobalt premium wire set at $34.95, all I have to do is ditch the old style cap and go with the post-67 top entry cap. So many choices. Any comments on these different wire types? I am trying to keep my 64B mostly original but if these premium wires make for significantly better performance, I will take that over nostalgia. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 19 02:13:32 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 09:13:32 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires References: Message-ID: <61E6CC452526434B992DC65BBA46E053@paul> Premium wires won't make any difference unless you are going to open the gaps right up for some reason, and then you are likely to get coil, cap and rotor failures. Original carbon string wires were still available the last time I looked, but they gradually go higher and higher resistance (as the carbon joggles along the string?) and they are also pretty expensive, so I have silicone-cored. I've never had one of these fail in 30 or 40 years (except for a peculiar insulating coating that appeared on one of the brass connectors), I've had the same set on my V8 for 17 years and 100k. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... So many choices. Any comments on these different wire types? I > am trying to keep my 64B mostly original but if these premium wires make > for > significantly better performance, I will take that over nostalgia. From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 19 04:44:27 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 03:44:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Get the top load cap and a basic set of wires. The performance increasefor the high price spread is very slim compared to the price paid. Its very possible that your LOCAL parts supplier can order the cap and wires for you over night for a good price. Mark --- On Thu, 8/18/11, Councill, David wrote: From: Councill, David Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires To: "mgs at autox.team.net" Date: Thursday, August 18, 2011, 10:25 PM My 64B, although running good, has an intermittent misfire which I believe is due to a problem with the ignition wire (plug #3) or cap. Replaced spark plugs - #3 still showing soot deposits on the white insulator, compression 150 +/- 5 psi on all 4 cylinders (cold). But anyway, I figured I would replace cap and ignition wires, the problem is that Moss wants a princely sum for the archaic cap with its spike connectors and the basic wires. The ignition wire set lists at $42.95 versus $12.95 for the top entry style. But Moss is also pushing the Cobalt premium wire set at $34.95, all I have to do is ditch the old style cap and go with the post-67 top entry cap. So many choices. Any comments on these different wire types? I am trying to keep my 64B mostly original but if these premium wires make for significantly better performance, I will take that over nostalgia. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From mg_garage at comcast.net Fri Aug 19 07:20:21 2011 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 09:20:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You may want to contact http://www.advanceddistributors.com/. They specialize in Lucas distributors and IMO have excellent quality products. Gordie '62 MGA > > --- On Thu, 8/18/11, Councill, David wrote: > > > From: Councill, David > Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > Date: Thursday, August 18, 2011, 10:25 PM > > > My 64B, although running good, has an intermittent misfire which I believe > is > due to a problem with the ignition wire (plug #3) or cap. Replaced spark > plugs > - #3 still showing soot deposits on the white insulator, compression 150 > +/- > 5 > psi on all 4 cylinders (cold). > > But anyway, I figured I would replace cap and ignition wires, the problem > is > that Moss wants a princely sum for the archaic cap with its spike > connectors > and the basic wires. The ignition wire set lists at $42.95 versus $12.95 > for > the top entry style. But Moss is also pushing the Cobalt premium wire set > at > $34.95, all I have to do is ditch the old style cap and go with the > post-67 > top entry cap. So many choices. Any comments on these different wire > types? I > am trying to keep my 64B mostly original but if these premium wires make > for > significantly better performance, I will take that over nostalgia. > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Fri Aug 19 09:02:18 2011 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 08:02:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: <61E6CC452526434B992DC65BBA46E053@paul> Message-ID: <1313766138.51679.YahooMailClassic@web39408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Listers; I have the Moss premium wires (Cobalt) on my '74 B-GT and they appear to fit well and are well-constructed. I see no real performance benefit, however...but I'm not running any high-performance ignition components (just a Standard dizzy w/Pertronix). Regards, Matt Milkevitch '74 MGB-GT Willow Grove, PA --- On Fri, 8/19/11, Paul Hunt wrote: From: Paul Hunt Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition wires To: "Councill, David" , mgs at autox.team.net Date: Friday, August 19, 2011, 4:13 AM Premium wires won't make any difference unless you are going to open the gaps right up for some reason, and then you are likely to get coil, cap and rotor failures. Original carbon string wires were still available the last time I looked, but they gradually go higher and higher resistance (as the carbon joggles along the string?) and they are also pretty expensive, so I have silicone-cored. I've never had one of these fail in 30 or 40 years (except for a peculiar insulating coating that appeared on one of the brass connectors), I've had the same set on my V8 for 17 years and 100k. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... So many choices. Any comments on these different wire types? I > am trying to keep my 64B mostly original but if these premium wires make for > significantly better performance, I will take that over nostalgia. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mmilkevitch at yahoo.com From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Fri Aug 19 09:05:40 2011 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 08:05:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Question about Thermostats Message-ID: <1313766340.4549.YahooMailClassic@web39423.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Listers; Quick question about thermostats. Does the MGB thermostat require a small hole in the outer edge of the thermostat (I"m assuming to serve as a very limited bypass)?? I have other thermostats that have this feature but a new one I purchased does not. I seem to remember some type of discussion about this at some point. I can easily drill a small hole in this unit, but I was wondering what other listers know. Thanks for the help, Matt M. '74 MGB-GT Willow Grove, PA From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Aug 19 09:20:48 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 08:20:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Go with the basic wires either new ones for the side load cap or get a top loader with regular wires like Mark suggested. There is no other area in the automotive aftermarket that has more Woooo in it than ignition systems. There are more snake oil salesmen in the ignition business than you can shake a stick at. Many times those performance increases they talk about are either only measurable on a carefully calibrated dyno, or are non existent. I have even seen dyno tests where they new trick stuff decreased performance. Gotta love that. Rick On Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 3:44 AM, mark lapierre wrote: > Get the top load cap and a basic set of wires. The performance increasefor > the high price spread is very slim compared to the price paid. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 19 09:59:41 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 16:59:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Question about Thermostats References: <1313766340.4549.YahooMailClassic@web39423.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6F01F8914ADB4D2BBBF4347D2F3D7372@paul> Some have a small hole, some have a jiggle valve in the hole, others just have a small nick in the seal between the moving and fixed parts, see http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/thermostat.htm#4. Less to do with bypass than air-lock bleeding, the bypass port is in the head below the thermostat, so the pump can circulate coolant through the block and head to prevent hot-spots while the system is warming up. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Quick question about thermostats. Does the MGB thermostat require a small > hole in the outer edge of the thermostat (I"m assuming to serve as a very > limited bypass)?? From barrie at look.ca Fri Aug 19 10:47:34 2011 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 12:47:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: References: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You see the same gobbledegook with audio & TV. Some people pay hundreds for those TV wires when cheap Walmart stuff is just as good - even coat hangers will do !!! If one understands electricity then one should be alright. My local "mechanic" told me that my ignition wires were "leaking" and I needed to spend $150 on new ones. So I fired my MGB up in the dark and looked for sparks - not a one !!!! No EMF either. So I did not change my wires - even for much cheaper ones. At 11:20 AM 8/19/2011, Richard Ewald wrote: >Go with the basic wires either new ones for the side load cap or get a top >loader with regular wires like Mark suggested. >There is no other area in the automotive aftermarket that has more Woooo in >it than ignition systems. There are more snake oil salesmen in the ignition >business than you can shake a stick at. >Many times those performance increases they talk about are either only >measurable on a carefully calibrated dyno, or are non existent. I have even >seen dyno tests where they new trick stuff decreased performance. Gotta >love that. >Rick > >On Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 3:44 AM, mark lapierre wrote: > > > Get the top load cap and a basic set of wires. The performance increasefor > > the high price spread is very slim compared to the price paid. >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Aug 19 11:41:44 2011 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:41:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: References: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1313775704.16507.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> ________________________________ From: Barrie Robinson To: Richard Ewald ; mark lapierre Cc: "mgs at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 12:47 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition wires My local "mechanic" told me that my ignition wires were "leaking" and I needed to spend $150 on new ones. So I fired my MGB up in the dark and looked for sparks - not a one !!!! No EMF either. -------------------------------------------------------- But did you look UNDER the car for drips of electricity, Barrie? ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 19 11:42:28 2011 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:42:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Silly mechanic. You'd know they were leaking if you saw the smoke escaping. Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/19/11 9:47 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote: > You see the same gobbledegook with audio & TV. Some people pay > hundreds for those TV wires when cheap Walmart stuff is just as good > - even coat hangers will do !!! If one understands electricity then > one should be alright. My local "mechanic" told me that my ignition > wires were "leaking" and I needed to spend $150 on new ones. So I > fired my MGB up in the dark and looked for sparks - not a one > !!!! No EMF either. So I did not change my wires - even for much > cheaper ones. > > > > At 11:20 AM 8/19/2011, Richard Ewald wrote: >> Go with the basic wires either new ones for the side load cap or get a top >> loader with regular wires like Mark suggested. >> There is no other area in the automotive aftermarket that has more Woooo in >> it than ignition systems. There are more snake oil salesmen in the ignition >> business than you can shake a stick at. >> Many times those performance increases they talk about are either only >> measurable on a carefully calibrated dyno, or are non existent. I have even >> seen dyno tests where they new trick stuff decreased performance. Gotta >> love that. >> Rick >> >> On Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 3:44 AM, mark lapierre >> wrote: >> >>> Get the top load cap and a basic set of wires. The performance increasefor >>> the high price spread is very slim compared to the price paid. > > Regards > > Barrie > barrie at look.ca > 705-721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Fri Aug 19 14:37:47 2011 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 16:37:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: <1313775704.16507.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <1313775704.16507.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Dan, You should know that electricity does not drip off in Canada. It freezes and hangs like stalactites under the car making it difficult to get over "sleeping policemen". Max, Smoke is harder to freeze but it does form hailstones At 01:41 PM 8/19/2011, Dan DiBiase wrote: > > >From: Barrie Robinson >To: Richard Ewald ; mark lapierre > >Cc: "mgs at autox.team.net" >Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 12:47 PM >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition wires > > My local "mechanic" told me that my ignition >wires were "leaking" and I needed to spend $150 on new ones. So I >fired my MGB up in the dark and looked for sparks - not a one >!!!! No EMF either. > >-------------------------------------------------------- >But did you look UNDER the car for drips of electricity, Barrie? > >;-) > >Dan D >Central NJ USA >'76 MGB Tourer >'65 MGB Tourer (Project) >NAMGBR #5-2328 >http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ >http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ >http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ >http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ >twitter: dandibiase Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From pboldtrix at juno.com Fri Aug 19 15:11:18 2011 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 21:11:18 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation Message-ID: <20110819.171118.11637.0@webmail52.vgs.untd.com> To the List: I'm in the process of installing the rear hatch window in my 67' GT. Are there any suggestions for stabilizing the gasket to the window so it can be handled in the next step -- roping it into the hatch? The gasket seems a little big for the window and it is difficult to get it to fit around the window evenly. I know the gasket is a little big so that the window will have "float" for expansion, etc All my wrestling seems to go for naught. Wide masking tape seems ineffective. Any suggestions? TIA, Phil Bacon, 1967 MGBGT ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 3000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e4ed1bbf21a5771897st02vuc From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 20 03:17:17 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 10:17:17 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation References: <20110819.171118.11637.0@webmail52.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <1595D28A0C5B4EECB4A3FE2211AD17B0@paul> The rubber seal goes in the hatch first, with non-setting screen sealant, then the glass goes in the seal, which may or may not need the rope. ----- Original Message ----- > To the List: I'm in the process of installing the rear hatch window in > my > 67' GT. Are there any suggestions for stabilizing the gasket to the > window so > it can be handled in the next step -- roping it into the hatch? From frankk12 at verizon.net Sat Aug 20 08:30:02 2011 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 10:30:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Starter/Battery Issues Resolved Message-ID: <304FFECA08734B7DA488706A19C0405F@frankdcczr6l6k> My sincere thanks to the many of you who responded to my plea for advice regarding my presumed starter/solenoid issues. As most of you suggested, I had the battery tested and I discovered upon removal that I installed it in June of either 1989 or 1999. Either way it had served me well but its time was past. It was an Interstate and testimony to their durability. The voltage reading was normal but it couldn't withstand any load whatsoever. With no Interstate dealer anywhere near my home I settled for a NAPA batter (made by Deka), installed it and am back on the road. Those of you who recommended battery testing prior to starter removal saved me several days work and I am forever grateful. That hi-torque starter in back on the parts shelf unless someone is desperate for one. Frank Krajewski From barrie at look.ca Sat Aug 20 08:05:00 2011 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 10:05:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation In-Reply-To: <20110819.171118.11637.0@webmail52.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110819.171118.11637.0@webmail52.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Phil, I suggest you contact Martin MacGregor - mail at macgregorukcarparts.com, his is what he does. He has a web site http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com At 05:11 PM 8/19/2011, Phil Bacon wrote: >To the List: I'm in the process of installing the rear hatch window in my >67' GT. Are there any suggestions for stabilizing the gasket to the window so >it can be handled in the next step -- roping it into the hatch? The gasket >seems a little big for the window and it is difficult to get it to fit around >the window evenly. I know the gasket is a little big so that the window will >have "float" for expansion, etc All my wrestling seems to go for naught. >Wide masking tape seems ineffective. Any suggestions? TIA, Phil Bacon, 1967 >MGBGT >____________________________________________________________ >Penny Stock Jumping 3000% >Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! >http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e4ed1bbf21a5771897st02vuc >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Sat Aug 20 16:41:24 2011 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 18:41:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires In-Reply-To: References: <1313750667.61701.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Geordie, Those people are on the British Car Cottage Industries web site, www.britcot.com alongside many other interesting people At 09:20 AM 8/19/2011, gordies garage wrote: >You may want to contact http://www.advanceddistributors.com/. They >specialize in Lucas distributors and IMO have excellent quality products. > >Gordie >'62 MGA > >> >>--- On Thu, 8/18/11, Councill, David wrote: >> >> >>From: Councill, David >>Subject: [Mgs] Ignition wires >>To: "mgs at autox.team.net" >>Date: Thursday, August 18, 2011, 10:25 PM >> >> >>My 64B, although running good, has an intermittent misfire which I believe is >>due to a problem with the ignition wire (plug #3) or cap. Replaced spark >>plugs >>- #3 still showing soot deposits on the white insulator, compression 150 +/- >>5 >>psi on all 4 cylinders (cold). >> >>But anyway, I figured I would replace cap and ignition wires, the problem is >>that Moss wants a princely sum for the archaic cap with its spike connectors >>and the basic wires. The ignition wire set lists at $42.95 versus $12.95 for >>the top entry style. But Moss is also pushing the Cobalt premium wire set at >>$34.95, all I have to do is ditch the old style cap and go with the post-67 >>top entry cap. So many choices. Any comments on these different wire types? I >>am trying to keep my 64B mostly original but if these premium wires make for >>significantly better performance, I will take that over nostalgia. >> >>David Councill >>64 B >>67 BGT >>72 B >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca (705) 721-9060 From pboldtrix at juno.com Sat Aug 20 18:41:26 2011 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 00:41:26 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation Message-ID: <20110820.204126.23494.1@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>



---------- Original Message ----------
From: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: pboldtrix at juno.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 22:10:02 GMT

Hi Phil,
 I have replaced the windscreen to my GT, though not the rear hatch glass.
 To install the windscreen, one first installs the rubber, then puts the glass into the rubber.  It's my guess that the rear hatch glass is installed similarly--roping the glass to the rubber, not rubber to the metal hatch.
 Windscreen installation was not difficult. I used RuGlide lubricant, the stuff that tire installers use. Dishwashing liquid is said to be almost as good, and that is what I used for the quarter light gasket installation.
 Though the glass was not difficult, the trim pieces are tough to get in. Allow far more time than you can possibly imagine the job will take, and be prepared to walk away from the job in frustration.
  It's great when complete, but the last, seemingly simple, step is tough.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Phil Bacon" <pboldtrix at juno.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Cc: LGMiceli at comcast.net
Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 21:11:18 GMT

To the List:   I'm in the process of installing the rear hatch window in my
67' GT.  Are there any suggestions for stabilizing the gasket to the window so
it can be handled in the next step -- roping it into the hatch?  The gasket
seems a little big for the window and it is difficult to get it to fit around
the window evenly.  I know the gasket is a little big so that the window will
have "float" for expansion, etc  All my wrestling seems to go for naught.
Wide masking tape seems ineffective.  Any suggestions?   TIA, Phil Bacon, 1967
MGBGT
____________________________________________________________
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Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
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_______________________________________________

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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From pboldtrix at juno.com Sat Aug 20 18:41:42 2011 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 00:41:42 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation Message-ID: <20110820.204142.23494.2@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>



---------- Original Message ----------
From: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: pboldtrix at juno.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 22:10:02 GMT

Hi Phil,
 I have replaced the windscreen to my GT, though not the rear hatch glass.
 To install the windscreen, one first installs the rubber, then puts the glass into the rubber.  It's my guess that the rear hatch glass is installed similarly--roping the glass to the rubber, not rubber to the metal hatch.
 Windscreen installation was not difficult. I used RuGlide lubricant, the stuff that tire installers use. Dishwashing liquid is said to be almost as good, and that is what I used for the quarter light gasket installation.
 Though the glass was not difficult, the trim pieces are tough to get in. Allow far more time than you can possibly imagine the job will take, and be prepared to walk away from the job in frustration.
  It's great when complete, but the last, seemingly simple, step is tough.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Phil Bacon" <pboldtrix at juno.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Cc: LGMiceli at comcast.net
Subject: [Mgs] MGBGT rear hatch window installation
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 21:11:18 GMT

To the List:   I'm in the process of installing the rear hatch window in my
67' GT.  Are there any suggestions for stabilizing the gasket to the window so
it can be handled in the next step -- roping it into the hatch?  The gasket
seems a little big for the window and it is difficult to get it to fit around
the window evenly.  I know the gasket is a little big so that the window will
have "float" for expansion, etc  All my wrestling seems to go for naught.
Wide masking tape seems ineffective.  Any suggestions?   TIA, Phil Bacon, 1967
MGBGT
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e4ed1bbf21a5771897st02vuc
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Aug 21 09:24:31 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 11:24:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] brake pipe question Message-ID: Couple weeks ago I found a leak in my long brake pipe that goes the length of the car from the front connector to the rear connector. I took out the old pipe yesterday and went to install the new one only to find the fitting at the front end was different. The pipe I replaced had two small male fittings (3/8" nut, 1/4" ID, and about a 1/2" long thread) on each end. The replacement I got from TRF has a larger female fitting up front which is 9/16" OD and 3/8" ID, looks like it was meant to go into a hose? My question is did I get the wrong pipe from them or do I have non original fitting up front? The overall length also seems a bit long also compared to the "original," maybe I have it reversed and the larger fitting goes directly to the rear hose? Thanks for the help... Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Aug 21 09:32:25 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 11:32:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] brake pipe question - question answered... References: Message-ID: <6FA0E428963C49C0B2AD181ECEE66304@valued9cfc0b6f> Answered my own question, there was an adaptor at the rear ...apparently the previous owner had a length of pipe with two male fittings and added a connector at the rear...sorry Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "davewillner" To: Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 11:24 AM Subject: [Mgs] brake pipe question > Couple weeks ago I found a leak in my long brake pipe that goes the length > of > the car from the front connector to the rear connector. I took out the old > pipe yesterday and went to install the new one only to find the fitting at > the > front end was different. The pipe I replaced had two small male fittings > (3/8" > nut, 1/4" ID, and about a 1/2" long thread) on each end. The replacement I > got > from TRF has a larger female fitting up front which is 9/16" OD and 3/8" > ID, > looks like it was meant to go into a hose? My question is did I get the > wrong > pipe from them or do I have non original fitting up front? The overall > length > also seems a bit long also compared to the "original," maybe I have it > reversed and the larger fitting goes directly to the rear hose? Thanks for > the > help... > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwillner at ptd.net From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com Sun Aug 21 13:19:40 2011 From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (MARK SHERMAN) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 15:19:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Original MG TD Side Curtain Frames available (front only) Message-ID: When I bought my '53 TD twenty years ago it came with a mixed set of side curtains that were functional if not pretty. Since they spent most of the time in the box they did not get any attention. Last year I finally decided to renew them and realized that I had one front frame from a 2-bow TD and the other from a 3-bow TD so I purchased a new set from Moss. I have these original TD sidecurtain frames these are available (Moss replacement numbers): 254-200 MG TD 3-bow Right Front Frame 253-600 MG TD 2-bow Left Front Frame If you are interested, please email me and I can send you photos. Thanks Mark Sherman -- Mark Sherman From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 21 18:26:24 2011 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:26:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC> References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC> Message-ID: <0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC> It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to be a bit more realistic? Larry Daniels -----Original Message----- From: Larry Daniels Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, wiring harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and clutch. NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to be in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in new parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a nice rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. Photos available. Larry Daniels _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From don at napanet.net Sun Aug 21 19:14:57 2011 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 18:14:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC> References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC> <0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC> Message-ID: <20110822011525.BA028AE681@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Is this any help? http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/keywords/roadster/years/1975-1980/ Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1955 MGTF 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1963-7 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars At 05:26 PM 8/21/2011, Larry Daniels wrote: >It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way >off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. >Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. > >Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to >be a bit more realistic? > >Larry Daniels > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Larry Daniels >Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM >To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com >Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > >I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including >convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, wiring >harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild >including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and clutch. >NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to >be >in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in new >parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a nice >rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. > >We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be >available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. > >Photos available. > >Larry Daniels >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net > > >----- > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3848 - Release Date: 08/21/11 From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 21 19:33:35 2011 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 18:33:35 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC> Message-ID: It's really an impossible proposition. The actual selling price is dependent on too many factors: condition, location, the global economy, the local economy, and then there is kind of a random factor: has a similar vehicle just sold recently? A good price guide would give several prices: auction estimate, sale-by-owner estimate, dealer estimate, and give a range for each. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/21/11 5:26 PM, Larry Daniels at ladaniels at sbcglobal.net wrote: > It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way > off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. > Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. > > Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to > be a bit more realistic? > > Larry Daniels > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Larry Daniels > Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM > To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > > I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including > convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, wiring > harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild > including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and clutch. > NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to > be > in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in new > parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a nice > rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. > > We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be > available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. > > Photos available. > > Larry Daniels From PRNDL at sonic.net Sun Aug 21 20:01:12 2011 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:01:12 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] '79 MGB LE Message-ID: <4730DE65-A165-4A48-B207-E51B7A5D3000@sonic.net> Larry, I usually go to eBay "completed listings" and I regularly troll the auction results from all of the usual suspects. It only really matters what people are willing to *pay*, not what the cars are listed for. -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 21 20:22:41 2011 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 21:22:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <20110822011525.BA028AE681@mail.dsl.napanet.net> References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC><0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC> <20110822011525.BA028AE681@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Message-ID: Yes, that does help. Unfortunately, though, at first glance it looks like I might still be pricing it too high. Darn, I liked NADA's value better! Thanks, Don. -----Original Message----- From: Don Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 8:14 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition Is this any help? http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/keywords/roadster/years/1975-1980/ Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1955 MGTF 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1963-7 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars At 05:26 PM 8/21/2011, Larry Daniels wrote: >It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way >off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. >Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. > >Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to >be a bit more realistic? > >Larry Daniels > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Larry Daniels >Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM >To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com >Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > >I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including >convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, >wiring >harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild >including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and clutch. >NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to >be >in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in new >parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a >nice >rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. > >We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be >available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. > >Photos available. > >Larry Daniels >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net > > >----- > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3848 - Release Date: 08/21/11 _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From dave at ranteer.com Sun Aug 21 20:07:14 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 21:07:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC> References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC> <0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC> Message-ID: I have called my Hagerty insurance agent on several occasions and asked what they consider to be fair market value. I will add, however, that I have noted that what I see on ebay is somewhat lower -------------------------------------------------- From: "Larry Daniels" Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 7:26 PM To: "MG List" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way > off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. > Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. > > Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to > be a bit more realistic? > > Larry Daniels From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 22 00:49:39 2011 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 23:49:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: "Sold" prices are always more realistic than "asking" prices or "reserves". Insurance prices are generally inflated to protect the owner in cae of loss. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/21/11 7:22 PM, Larry Daniels at ladaniels at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Yes, that does help. Unfortunately, though, at first glance it looks like I > might still be pricing it too high. Darn, I liked NADA's value better! > > Thanks, Don. > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don > Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 8:14 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > > Is this any help? > > http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/keywords/roadst > er/years/1975-1980/ > > > Don Scott > Calistoga CA USA > 1955 MGTF > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 1963-7 MGB (seeking) > Misc. Japanese cars > > > At 05:26 PM 8/21/2011, Larry Daniels wrote: >> It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way >> off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. >> Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. >> >> Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to >> be a bit more realistic? >> >> Larry Daniels >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Larry Daniels >> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM >> To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com >> Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition >> >> I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including >> convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, >> wiring >> harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild >> including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and clutch. >> NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to >> be >> in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in new >> parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a >> nice >> rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. >> >> We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be >> available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. >> >> Photos available. >> >> Larry Daniels >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net >> >> >> ----- From mg_garage at comcast.net Mon Aug 22 06:10:51 2011 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 08:10:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC><0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC><20110822011525.BA028AE681@mail.dsl.napanet.net> Message-ID: <012E8F536E514856951C7C1C95CF5E58@stargate> Isn't it amazing how price guides purport to know the value of a vehicle, yet are under no obligation to stand behind that value (as in writing a check)? In years past the NADA guide was used exclusively by the lenders to determine the loan value. It allowed lenders to loan more, and ppl to pay too much. To me, it makes the guides rather worthless. Gordie '62 MGA -------------------------------------------------- From: "Larry Daniels" Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 10:22 PM To: ; "Don" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > Yes, that does help. Unfortunately, though, at first glance it looks like > I > might still be pricing it too high. Darn, I liked NADA's value better! > > Thanks, Don. > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don > Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 8:14 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > > Is this any help? > > http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/keywords/roadster/years/1975-1980/ > > > Don Scott > Calistoga CA USA > 1955 MGTF > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 1963-7 MGB (seeking) > Misc. Japanese cars > > > At 05:26 PM 8/21/2011, Larry Daniels wrote: >>It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way >>off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. >>Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. >> >>Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to >>be a bit more realistic? >> >>Larry Daniels >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Larry Daniels >>Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM >>To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com >>Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition >> >>I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including >>convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, >>wiring >>harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild >>including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and >>clutch. >>NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to >>be >>in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in >>new >>parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a >>nice >>rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. >> >>We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be >>available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. >> >>Photos available. >> >>Larry Daniels >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net >> >> >>----- >> >>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3848 - Release Date: 08/21/11 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 22 07:44:55 2011 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 08:44:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <012E8F536E514856951C7C1C95CF5E58@stargate> References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC><0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC><20110822011525.BA028AE681@mail.dsl.napanet.net> <012E8F536E514856951C7C1C95CF5E58@stargate> Message-ID: <7CD177F03D014A50979F71C047C8BD00@HomePC> It makes you wonder how in the world they can come up with those numbers, doesn't it? One would think that they must be based on something? Maybe Standard and Poor's can start a new division to value old cars. Wait... maybe that's not such a good idea. ;-) Larry -----Original Message----- From: gordies garage Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 7:10 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition Isn't it amazing how price guides purport to know the value of a vehicle, yet are under no obligation to stand behind that value (as in writing a check)? In years past the NADA guide was used exclusively by the lenders to determine the loan value. It allowed lenders to loan more, and ppl to pay too much. To me, it makes the guides rather worthless. Gordie '62 MGA -------------------------------------------------- From: "Larry Daniels" Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 10:22 PM To: ; "Don" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > Yes, that does help. Unfortunately, though, at first glance it looks like > I > might still be pricing it too high. Darn, I liked NADA's value better! > > Thanks, Don. > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don > Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 8:14 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > > Is this any help? > > http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/keywords/roadster/years/1975-1980/ > > > Don Scott > Calistoga CA USA > 1955 MGTF > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 1963-7 MGB (seeking) > Misc. Japanese cars > > > At 05:26 PM 8/21/2011, Larry Daniels wrote: >>It was brought to my attention that the NADA Price Guide is sometimes way >>off base. I have come to agree with that as I looked around some more. >>Given that, I reduced my price to $6500 OBO. >> >>Has anybody found a price guide for our older cars that they have found to >>be a bit more realistic? >> >>Larry Daniels >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Larry Daniels >>Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:29 PM >>To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com >>Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition >> >>I am selling my '79 MGB LE. 48,000 miles. Lots of new parts including >>convertible top, carpeting, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with Blaupunkt speakers, >>wiring >>harness and Weber 38/38 Outlaw carb. It has had a minor engine rebuild >>including a valve job, new pistons and rings, rod bearings, cam and >>clutch. >>NADA lists average retail on a '79 as $8050. I would consider this car to >>be >>in better than average condition and it has several thousand dollars in >>new >>parts and labor. It won't take first place at Pebble Beach, but it's a >>nice >>rust-free car. I am asking $8500 OBO. That's a pretty good deal. >> >>We have our eye on a replacement, but don't know how long it will be >>available, so a QUICK sale will get a good price. >> >>Photos available. >> >>Larry Daniels >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net >> >> >>----- >> >>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3848 - Release Date: 08/21/11 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Aug 22 08:03:05 2011 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:03:05 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <7CD177F03D014A50979F71C047C8BD00@HomePC> References: <7CCB4F16ED894DB8927F9FCFAB4BFDE0@HomePC><0AAEE55C59FE4CAABE27D93B9875364A@HomePC><20110822011525.BA028AE681@mail.dsl.napanet.net> <012E8F536E514856951C7C1C95CF5E58@stargate> <7CD177F03D014A50979F71C047C8BD00@HomePC> Message-ID: In years even further past, NADA just used a depreciation formula based on the initial new price of the car. It worked well (I think) for American cars which typically lost value faster but not so much for MGBs. When I bought by first 71 BGT in 1978, with about 60k miles and in almost new condition, I paid around $2000. When I went to license it in another county, the clerk told me I needed a bill of sale for sales tax or if not, they would have to use blue book (NADA). I asked them how much was their value, they said $1000. So I took that and left happy (at 4% sales tax, I paid $40 instead of $80). Now I see that values seem to be high but not unreasonable with NADA or Kelly book values. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: gordies garage Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 7:10 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition Isn't it amazing how price guides purport to know the value of a vehicle, yet are under no obligation to stand behind that value (as in writing a check)? In years past the NADA guide was used exclusively by the lenders to determine the loan value. It allowed lenders to loan more, and ppl to pay too much. To me, it makes the guides rather worthless. Gordie '62 MGA edu From mgbob at juno.com Mon Aug 22 08:15:58 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:15:58 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition Message-ID: <20110822.101558.15931.4@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Establishing a value is a task that causes some to give up trying. In Connecticut, the value of an "Early American" car (actually, anything over 25 years) is set currently at $500. It is said that this value was set by Town assessors, since they did not want to attempt to establish a value for every old car registered in the state. The tax rate in our town is 32 mills. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Councill, David" To: "mgs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:03:05 +0000 In years even further past, NADA just used a depreciation formula based on the initial new price of the car. It worked well (I think) for American cars which typically lost value faster but not so much for MGBs. When I bought by first 71 BGT in 1978, with about 60k miles and in almost new condition, I paid around $2000. When I went to license it in another county, the clerk told me I needed a bill of sale for sales tax or if not, they would have to use blue book (NADA). I asked them how much was their value, they said $1000. So I took that and left happy (at 4% sales tax, I paid $40 instead of $80). Now I see that values seem to be high but not unreasonable with NADA or Kelly book values. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: gordies garage Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 7:10 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition Isn't it amazing how price guides purport to know the value of a vehicle, yet are under no obligation to stand behind that value (as in writing a check)? In years past the NADA guide was used exclusively by the lenders to determine the loan value. It allowed lenders to loan more, and ppl to pay too much. To me, it makes the guides rather worthless. Gordie '62 MGA edu _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 10:21:51 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:21:51 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <20110822.101558.15931.4@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110822.101558.15931.4@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: FWIW I have worked at car dealers (service manager) and we were told that NADA tracked transaction prices to establish their values. The numbers in NADA are usually much lower than Kelly Blue Book. Blue Book is great if you are selling (but don't plan on getting those numbers from a savvy buyer) NADA numbers are what our used car manager used as a starting place when evaluating trade ins. So if you are selling, show the buyer Blue book, if you are buying, use NADA. The problem with NADA or any other evaluation service on very old cars like LBCs is there are so few of them sold, and their condition is all over the map, it is tough to get a proper average price. Rick From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com Mon Aug 22 10:41:04 2011 From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:41:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20110822164104.YND77.7600.root@cdptpa-web08-z01> Fellers: All those books are a good start. My experience selling and buying MGs or most anything else is.....when I buy it is very rare, others want it, and it's super-expensive; when I sell everybody already has one to get rid of, no one wants mine and we can not give it away...mel 71 mgbgt not for sale.... ---- Richard Ewald wrote: .. > FWIW I have worked at car dealers (service manager) and we were told that > NADA tracked transaction prices to establish their values. The numbers in > NADA are usually much lower than Kelly Blue Book. Blue Book is great if you > are selling (but don't plan on getting those numbers from a savvy buyer) > NADA numbers are what our used car manager used as a starting place when > evaluating trade ins. So if you are selling, show the buyer Blue book, if > you are buying, use NADA. > The problem with NADA or any other evaluation service on very old cars like > LBCs is there are so few of them sold, and their condition is all over the > map, it is tough to get a proper average price. > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/melfrankus at carolina.rr.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 22 10:46:32 2011 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:46:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Rick hit the nail on the head in the last paragraph. The price estimate is only as good as the "comps", and it can be hard to find a comparable sale for a 1952 Wootleigh-Whatzit Le Mans in "as driven" condition, as opposed to "museum restoration" or "vintage race prepped". Then there is the well-known syndrome that everyone thinks their car is a #2. Actually, almost nobody's car is a #2. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/22/11 9:21 AM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote: > FWIW I have worked at car dealers (service manager) and we were told that > NADA tracked transaction prices to establish their values. The numbers in > NADA are usually much lower than Kelly Blue Book. Blue Book is great if you > are selling (but don't plan on getting those numbers from a savvy buyer) > NADA numbers are what our used car manager used as a starting place when > evaluating trade ins. So if you are selling, show the buyer Blue book, if > you are buying, use NADA. > The problem with NADA or any other evaluation service on very old cars like > LBCs is there are so few of them sold, and their condition is all over the > map, it is tough to get a proper average price. > > Rick From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 10:52:16 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:52:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yeah you should have seen the problems I had establishing a value for the Rolls-Canhardly I was trying to unload. :-) Rick Sent from my iPhone On Aug 22, 2011, at 9:46, Max Heim wrote: > Rick hit the nail on the head in the last paragraph. The price estimate is > only as good as the "comps", and it can be hard to find a comparable sale > for a 1952 Wootleigh-Whatzit Le Mans in "as driven" condition, as opposed to > "museum restoration" or "vintage race prepped". > > Then there is the well-known syndrome that everyone thinks their car is a > #2. Actually, almost nobody's car is a #2. > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > on 8/22/11 9:21 AM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote: > >> FWIW I have worked at car dealers (service manager) and we were told that >> NADA tracked transaction prices to establish their values. The numbers in >> NADA are usually much lower than Kelly Blue Book. Blue Book is great if you >> are selling (but don't plan on getting those numbers from a savvy buyer) >> NADA numbers are what our used car manager used as a starting place when >> evaluating trade ins. So if you are selling, show the buyer Blue book, if >> you are buying, use NADA. >> The problem with NADA or any other evaluation service on very old cars like >> LBCs is there are so few of them sold, and their condition is all over the >> map, it is tough to get a proper average price. >> >> Rick > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 22 11:23:51 2011 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:23:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: References: <20110822.101558.15931.4@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4B6CE06E624847FBADEEB154E99D0C61@HomePC> This may explain a few things. First, I don't recall the last time I saw a LBC on a dealer lot. Dealers who do put one on their lot don't want a rust bucket. eBay, on the other hand, will sell cars that need to be held together with duct tape. So the average dealer sold car will be more expensive that the average eBay car. That does make NADA average prices skewed upward and eBay average prices head in the other direction. It's all averages for THEIR market. Larry -----Original Message----- From: Richard Ewald Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 11:21 AM To: mgbob at juno.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition FWIW I have worked at car dealers (service manager) and we were told that NADA tracked transaction prices to establish their values. The numbers in NADA are usually much lower than Kelly Blue Book. Blue Book is great if you are selling (but don't plan on getting those numbers from a savvy buyer) NADA numbers are what our used car manager used as a starting place when evaluating trade ins. So if you are selling, show the buyer Blue book, if you are buying, use NADA. The problem with NADA or any other evaluation service on very old cars like LBCs is there are so few of them sold, and their condition is all over the map, it is tough to get a proper average price. Rick _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From shop at justbrits.com Mon Aug 22 14:23:56 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 15:23:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E52BADC.8000109@justbrits.com> Rick, Rick, Rick, Sigh............... << Yeah you should have seen the problems I had establishing a value for the Rolls-Canhardly.... >> I coulda helped you quite a bit, I think !! I've actually had a few in my time ! ! ! 1st question would have been: "Do you have a 'Silver Cloud' or a 'Imagee Steele' or a "Flying Seester" [ NOTE: NO, NOT 'flying nun'. THAT was a common FAKE, turned out by the hundreds in Mexico ! ! ! ] Model ?" 2nd [and not much for 'value' mucho dollaros, but the little things DO add up !] Does either vehicle have the 'picnic basket WITH complete four (4) place china" Option ? ? ? NOTE: China must be complete AND of the SAME 'pattern' and matching Serial Numbers. That's but a start, but you CAN see that I "know/knew" the 'cars' ! ! ! Regards.... "Honest" Wyoming Charlie Located in the equidistant from Idaho Falls, Idaho & Bozeman, Montana & Cody, Wyoming in The Grand Teton National Forest. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 15:53:11 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:53:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: <4E52BADC.8000109@justbrits.com> References: <4E52BADC.8000109@justbrits.com> Message-ID: I think it was a "Flying Seester" which if I understand it right was a lightweight down market version of the Henway. It had the picnic basket, and the plates were all matching serial numbers but they were Melmac plates lighter than China). As I understand it the Henways had the matching China. This was one of the rare 6 cylinder racing models with a 3/4 street grind cam (the guy down the street reground 9 out of the 12 cam lobes) Problem is I was selling it in the days before the internet, so getting access to guys that knew about Rolls-Canhardlys was tough even here in car crazy LA. FTR Moss motors was no help at all in my search to establish a value. Rick On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 1:23 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > Rick, Rick, Rick, Sigh............... > > > << Yeah you should have seen the problems I had establishing > a value for the Rolls-Canhardly.... >> > > I coulda helped you quite a bit, I think !! I've actually had a > few in my time ! ! ! > > 1st question would have been: > "Do you have a 'Silver Cloud' or a 'Imagee Steele' or a > "Flying Seester" [ NOTE: NO, NOT 'flying nun'. THAT was > a common FAKE, turned out by the hundreds in Mexico ! ! ! ] Model ?" > 2nd [and not much for 'value' mucho dollaros, but the little > things DO add up !] Does either vehicle have the 'picnic > basket WITH complete four (4) place china" Option ? ? ? > NOTE: China must be complete AND of the SAME 'pattern' > and matching Serial Numbers. > > That's but a start, but you CAN see that I "know/knew" the 'cars' ! ! ! > > Regards.... > > "Honest" Wyoming Charlie > Located in the equidistant from Idaho Falls, Idaho & > Bozeman, Montana & Cody, Wyoming in The Grand Teton > National Forest. ______________________________**_________________ > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/mgs/richard.ewald@** > gmail.com From mg_garage at comcast.net Tue Aug 23 06:39:04 2011 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 08:39:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition In-Reply-To: References: <20110822.101558.15931.4@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Well Rick, I guess I have to take exception to some of your statements, at least in my area of the country. You see, for over 22 years, I was either a salesperson, finance manager, sales manager, used car manager, or a general sales manager at Saturn, Audi, MB, Pontiac, Chev, or Buick dealerships. Used car managers across the country use the Black Book to help assess the value of a trade. Black Book surveys auctions across the country and publishes regional editions. Black Book is published weekly. Never heard of Black Book? That's because it is only available to dealers. It does not feature a consumer edition. Black Book lists only wholesale and has different values based upon condition...rough, poor, good, excellent, and loan. Most trade ins fall in the rough to good area. Google it. NADA is definitely NOT used by used car managers. As evidenced by Larry's original statement, NADA pegged his car at $8500, way too high. No used car manager that wishes to keep his job will use the highest figure as a guide to a trade value. NADA does list a wholesale (trade-in) and retail value. Traditionally, lenders would use the NADA loan value to determine how much to lend on a certain car. Perhaps this is because insurance companies use the NADA retail value for premium and replacement values. KBB (blue book) has raised it's value (intrinsic, not car) in recent years. As little as 8 or 10 years ago, although it was a common name, no one but the public used the KBB value. Perhaps the used car manager at your dealership convinced the employees that NADA is what he used. By doing that, he could sell a car to an employee at 'wholesale' value and still make a good profit. If I were selling, I would show the prospect the NADA value, and if I were buying, I'd get hold of a Black Book and show him the appropriate value there. I do agree with your last statement though, only a large number of sold cars in a given area can provide a reasonable value. With old cars, there may be enough sold nationally, but the variance in regional values makes the national value pretty worthless. Gordie -------------------------------------------------- From: "Richard Ewald" Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 12:21 PM To: Cc: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Selling my '79 MGB Limited Edition > FWIW I have worked at car dealers (service manager) and we were told that > NADA tracked transaction prices to establish their values. The numbers in > NADA are usually much lower than Kelly Blue Book. Blue Book is great if > you > are selling (but don't plan on getting those numbers from a savvy buyer) > NADA numbers are what our used car manager used as a starting place when > evaluating trade ins. So if you are selling, show the buyer Blue book, if > you are buying, use NADA. > The problem with NADA or any other evaluation service on very old cars > like > LBCs is there are so few of them sold, and their condition is all over the > map, it is tough to get a proper average price. > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net From dwillner at ptd.net Thu Aug 25 12:10:57 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:10:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] trying to locate OEM looking straps for tools/jack Message-ID: Do anyone know of a source that still supplies the original type straps that secure the jack and tool bags in the MGB trunk (I mean "boot")? thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From mgbob at juno.com Thu Aug 25 12:31:14 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 18:31:14 GMT Subject: [Mgs] trying to locate OEM looking straps for tools/jack Message-ID: <20110825.143114.9562.7@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Hi Dave, I do not know of a retail source, but recently when I wanted new straps of the OEM sort to make a toolkit for my TD, a local leather guy whipped up one in a jiffy. Check a belt store, or a cobbler. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "davewillner" To: Subject: [Mgs] trying to locate OEM looking straps for tools/jack Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:10:57 -0400 Do anyone know of a source that still supplies the original type straps that secure the jack and tool bags in the MGB trunk (I mean "boot")? thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From mgbob at juno.com Thu Aug 25 12:40:44 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 18:40:44 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator Message-ID: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> After 12,722 trouble-free miles, it seems the diodes are perishing again in this two-wire Lucas alternator. What is current (pun) thinking about alternators: Replace the diodes Get a rebuilt from Autozone or similar Make the change to Delco Better ideas? Bob From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Thu Aug 25 14:26:43 2011 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:26:43 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator In-Reply-To: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Personally, I would do the diodes. But then, I have had my alternator for about 27 years after buying it used. It was in my 71BGT, now my 72B, and I would estimate mileage at 200,000. I have gone through two sets of brushes (or maybe three) and its still generating electricity. On another note, you mention Autozone. Is this a good place for parts? We don't have one locally but I found out today that one of our local medical marijuana establishments is going to be leveled and an Autozone built in its place. Not to worry - the dispensary is relocating to a kiosk on the same lot so it could be a one stop location for car parts and medicinal herbs for those in need. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mgbob at juno.com Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 12:41 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator After 12,722 trouble-free miles, it seems the diodes are perishing again in this two-wire Lucas alternator. What is current (pun) thinking about alternators: Replace the diodes Get a rebuilt from Autozone or similar Make the change to Delco Better ideas? Bob From mgbob at juno.com Thu Aug 25 15:00:44 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 21:00:44 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator Message-ID: <20110825.170044.14223.5@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Councill, David" To: "'mgbob at juno.com'" , "mgs at autox.team.net" Subject: RE: [Mgs] MGB alternator Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:26:43 +0000 Hi Dave, I've done the diodes, that 12,722 miles ago ( I still keep a fuel & service log) and before at some interval too. General feeling around our club is that the diodes today are so inferior to those of 30 years ago that using them is a toss-up. Thinking about this, I recall that my 1975 MGB alternator lasted some 200,000 miles while I drove the car, but these two sets have been short-lived. Autozone is a chain here in the northeast. Only rarely have I dealt with them; my question using their name only because others have used Autozone for inexpensive rebuilt parts. It's good to know you will have two businesses where only one existed before. Bob Personally, I would do the diodes. But then, I have had my alternator for about 27 years after buying it used. It was in my 71BGT, now my 72B, and I would estimate mileage at 200,000. I have gone through two sets of brushes (or maybe three) and its still generating electricity. On another note, you mention Autozone. Is this a good place for parts? We don't have one locally but I found out today that one of our local medical marijuana establishments is going to be leveled and an Autozone built in its place. Not to worry - the dispensary is relocating to a kiosk on the same lot so it could be a one stop location for car parts and medicinal herbs for those in need. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From dwoerpel at wi.net Thu Aug 25 14:57:16 2011 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (Woerpel) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 15:57:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator In-Reply-To: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4E56B72C.4010804@wi.net> My dynamo/alt guy swears by (not at) Desmo alternators. jm.02 Dave Woerpel 59 MGA 1500 59 :{) Burlington WI On 8/25/2011 1:40 PM, mgbob at juno.com wrote: > After 12,722 trouble-free miles, it seems the diodes are perishing again in > this two-wire Lucas alternator. > What is current (pun) thinking about alternators: > Replace the diodes > Get a rebuilt from Autozone or similar > Make the change to Delco > Better ideas? > Bob From dwoerpel at wi.net Thu Aug 25 14:54:05 2011 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (Woerpel) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 15:54:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] trying to locate OEM looking straps for tools/jack In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E56B66D.9030808@wi.net> You might check MacGregor British Car Parts: http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ Maybe Todd Clarke? He's mostly model trains and MGA's...he is in PA however! Dave Woerpel 59 MGA 1500 59 :{) Burlington WI On 8/25/2011 1:10 PM, davewillner wrote: > Do anyone know of a source that still supplies the original type straps that > secure the jack and tool bags in the MGB trunk (I mean "boot")? thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS From dave at ranteer.com Thu Aug 25 16:25:13 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 17:25:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator In-Reply-To: <20110825.170044.14223.5@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110825.170044.14223.5@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <6660968213FA4FB39CF684288E4D9933@ranteer.local> how about Manny, Moe, and Jack??? you can tell I grew up in the northeast - that's Pep Boys! -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 4:00 PM To: Cc: Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB alternator > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "Councill, David" > To: "'mgbob at juno.com'" , "mgs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: RE: [Mgs] MGB alternator > Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:26:43 +0000 > > Hi Dave, > I've done the diodes, that 12,722 miles ago ( I still keep a fuel & > service > log) and before at some interval too. General feeling around our club is > that > the diodes today are so inferior to those of 30 years ago that using them > is a > toss-up. Thinking about this, I recall that my 1975 MGB alternator lasted > some 200,000 miles while I drove the car, but these two sets have been > short-lived. > Autozone is a chain here in the northeast. Only rarely have I dealt > with > them; my question using their name only because others have used Autozone > for > inexpensive rebuilt parts. It's good to know you will have two businesses > where only one existed before. > Bob > > > > Personally, I would do the diodes. But then, I have had my alternator for > about 27 years after buying it used. It was in my 71BGT, now my 72B, and I > would estimate mileage at 200,000. I have gone through two sets of brushes > (or > maybe three) and its still generating electricity. > > On another note, you mention Autozone. Is this a good place for parts? We > don't have one locally but I found out today that one of our local medical > marijuana establishments is going to be leveled and an Autozone built in > its > place. Not to worry - the dispensary is relocating to a kiosk on the same > lot > so it could be a one stop location for car parts and medicinal herbs for > those > in need. > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 26 01:47:32 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 08:47:32 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator References: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <0622191AC9DD43BD8A4E188C6AD1AA3E@paul> 12k isn't far at all, on a 'normal' car that is barely a years driving. If you replace just the diodes then there could be something else wrong with it that is causing the diodes to fail prematurely and it will happen again. OTOH if you get a rebuilt that came in with faulty diodes they may only have replaced those and done a quick voltage and current check (perhaps). I'd prefer to keep original, so unless this is the second or more *replacement* set that has failed, I'd change the diodes again in the hope that the previous set was a rogue, otherwise get a rebuilt. Incidentally what type of diode pack is it? If it's the earlier type with the nine visible diodes on large cooling plates, as opposed to the 'solid' alloy housing with cooling fins, then it could be vibration causing the bond between diode and plate to fail. FWIW. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > After 12,722 trouble-free miles, it seems the diodes are perishing again > in > this two-wire Lucas alternator. From mgbob at juno.com Fri Aug 26 06:27:05 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 12:27:05 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator Message-ID: <20110826.082705.2761.4@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Hi Paul, 12,272 did not seem all that far to me either, especially when I recalled that an alternator on my '75 had more than 200,000 while I had the car. This unit is one I got from a boneyard. It served for a couple of years, then I replaced diodes. That was, however, at least five years ago and I do not recall which of the diode packs I used. It's on the car now. If we are confined to home this weekend by the hurricane coming up the coast, I will have time to remove and open the unit. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Paul Hunt" To: , Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB alternator Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 08:47:32 +0100 12k isn't far at all, on a 'normal' car that is barely a years driving. If you replace just the diodes then there could be something else wrong with it that is causing the diodes to fail prematurely and it will happen again. OTOH if you get a rebuilt that came in with faulty diodes they may only have replaced those and done a quick voltage and current check (perhaps). I'd prefer to keep original, so unless this is the second or more *replacement* set that has failed, I'd change the diodes again in the hope that the previous set was a rogue, otherwise get a rebuilt. Incidentally what type of diode pack is it? If it's the earlier type with the nine visible diodes on large cooling plates, as opposed to the 'solid' alloy housing with cooling fins, then it could be vibration causing the bond between diode and plate to fail. FWIW. PaulH. From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Aug 28 06:40:48 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 08:40:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brake bleeding question Message-ID: <02020361C6824D2BAB04DBCAD7A6C46E@valued9cfc0b6f> I replaced the long steel pipe to the rear hose Saturday and then bled the two rear wheels. I did disconnect the wires and loosened the nylon nut 3.5 turns on the PDWA. The pedal was firm after the rears were done so I did test drive, and when applying real hard pressure the brake warning light came on, not normal braking though, just extreme... Now Haynes says when bleeding with PDWA start in the front closest to the master cylinder then work away, I've never followed that, have always worked my way forward... So do I need to rebleed from the front to rear with the nylon nut on the PDWA unscrewed? Or it also states it can be "centralized" by bleeding the other circuit, in my case the front. When an assistant applies the brakes, the valve should "center" and at that point the light should go out and the bleeder screw tightened? But my light isn't always on, so not sure what that means? Appreciate any advice, been there, done that...thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 28 07:44:02 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 14:44:02 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake bleeding question References: <02020361C6824D2BAB04DBCAD7A6C46E@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: There's two types of brake balance switch. I think the one on the non-servo master is left screwed in but you have to bleed the first circuit again very carefully until the light just goes out. With the servo master you unscrew the switch, bleed, then screw back. The difference is the first is a non-latching shuttle that is moved away from each circuit as it's being bled, the latter is a spring loaded shuttle that recentralises itself as long as the switch is unscrewed. ----- Original Message ----- > ... Now Haynes says when bleeding with PDWA > start in the front closest to the master cylinder then work away From thgun at comporium.net Tue Aug 30 07:41:57 2011 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 09:41:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Pos radio / neg car Message-ID: I have owned a pos ground MGA for years with a neg ground radio. Isolated from the mounting under the dash. The radio has a main power and an aux power to keep station memory and time. The radio will only work when both power cables are connected to the same power source. Should I run a extra cable for power for the aux? Any ideas? Tom Gunderson , 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Sent from my iPhone 4 From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Aug 30 08:59:13 2011 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 15:59:13 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Pos radio / neg car References: Message-ID: <57ADE3B621E74A0EBB0614BD868753DC@paul> The radio *should* work with the memory feed connected to a fused permanent live, and the power to a fused ignition switched live, so the radio is automatically switched off when the keys are out. If you are saying that it only works when both are connected to one of those, then the other must not be working i.e. not supplying 12v. When both are live they are both the same power source anyway i.e. the battery. OTOH you could connect both to a fused permanent live and just remember to switch it off when you leave the car. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I have owned a pos ground MGA for years with a neg ground radio. Isolated >from > the mounting under the dash. The radio has a main power and an aux power > to > keep station memory and time. The radio will only work when both power > cables > are connected to the same power source. Should I run a extra cable for > power > for the aux? Any ideas? From reno.man at rogers.com Tue Aug 30 09:46:35 2011 From: reno.man at rogers.com (Mike L) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:46:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Pos radio / neg car In-Reply-To: <57ADE3B621E74A0EBB0614BD868753DC@paul> References: <57ADE3B621E74A0EBB0614BD868753DC@paul> Message-ID: <1314719195.45751.YahooMailNeo@web88618.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Why not just change the car to negative ground? ________________________________ From: Paul Hunt To: Tom Gunderson ; Mga List Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 10:59:13 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Pos radio / neg car The radio *should* work with the memory feed connected to a fused permanent live, and the power to a fused ignition switched live, so the radio is automatically switched off when the keys are out. If you are saying that it only works when both are connected to one of those, then the other must not be working i.e. not supplying 12v. When both are live they are both the same power source anyway i.e. the battery. OTOH you could connect both to a fused permanent live and just remember to switch it off when you leave the car. PaulH. From strovato at optonline.net Tue Aug 30 10:08:27 2011 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 12:08:27 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Pos radio / neg car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0LQR00DP50UTG6C0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> As, it seems, with all things MGA, the answer is on Barney's site. Check out: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et207.htm Unfortunately, what you have done is described as "the wrong way." -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 09:41 AM 8/30/2011, Tom Gunderson wrote: >I have owned a pos ground MGA for years with a neg ground radio. Isolated from >the mounting under the dash. The radio has a main power and an aux power to >keep station memory and time. The radio will only work when both power cables >are connected to the same power source. Should I run a extra cable for power >for the aux? Any ideas? From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Tue Aug 30 11:26:23 2011 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 17:26:23 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Pos radio / neg car In-Reply-To: <0LQR00DP50UTG6C0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <0LQR00DP50UTG6C0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: A conversion to negative ground, particularly with a mechanical tach (MGA, pre-65 MGB), is quite easy and recommended as Barney states. I did the isolation trick once many years ago on a 65B with an 8-track player (my last). When it eventually made contact to the dash after months of semi-reliable performance (speed variations helped with a matchbook cover), it released a large amount of smoke and never worked again. I then upgraded to cassette technology. My current 67BGT does use a cassette player which sits on the passenger seat and gets its power from the cigarette lighter outlet - cheap but efficient. Still have to put sound in my 64B which has been converted to negative ground. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Trovato Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 10:08 AM To: Tom Gunderson; Mga List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Pos radio / neg car As, it seems, with all things MGA, the answer is on Barney's site. Check out: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et207.htm Unfortunately, what you have done is described as "the wrong way." -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Aug 31 11:58:46 2011 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 12:58:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake bleeding question In-Reply-To: References: <02020361C6824D2BAB04DBCAD7A6C46E@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <4E5E7656.5040908@ktc.com> How do you tell which one you have? TIA, CR On 8/28/2011 8:44 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > There's two types of brake balance switch. I think the one on the > non-servo master is left screwed in but you have to bleed the first > circuit again very carefully until the light just goes out. With the > servo master you unscrew the switch, bleed, then screw back. The > difference is the first is a non-latching shuttle that is moved away > from each circuit as it's being bled, the latter is a spring loaded > shuttle that recentralises itself as long as the switch is unscrewed. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> ... Now Haynes says when bleeding with PDWA >> start in the front closest to the master cylinder then work away > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Aug 31 12:01:44 2011 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 13:01:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB alternator In-Reply-To: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110825.144044.9562.8@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4E5E7708.80009@ktc.com> Get a "Duralast" from AZ and turn it in for a new one whenever it fails. AZ has been keeping me in Alts & Starters for years! CR On 8/25/2011 1:40 PM, mgbob at juno.com wrote: > After 12,722 trouble-free miles, it seems the diodes are perishing again in > this two-wire Lucas alternator. > What is current (pun) thinking about alternators: > Replace the diodes > Get a rebuilt from Autozone or similar > Make the change to Delco > Better ideas? > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com