From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Oct 1 11:38:22 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2010 12:38:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Trafficator switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <718860.58674.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Moss Motors sells the part. See part number 162-400, item number 13 here: http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29248 At 09:33 PM 9/30/2010 -0400, Barrie Robinson wrote: >There was a vacuum operated trafficator (indicator) switch used on >some MGs - the MGA in particular I believe. I need one - Can anyone help? >.... From barrie at look.ca Fri Oct 1 07:58:10 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2010 09:58:10 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] I am being bocked Message-ID: If you have sent me an email and got no reply I have an explanation. My ISP - Telnet is being blocked by some places - the most noticeable being @msn.com. I have also been blocked by Comcast. Have no idea what is happening here. Using the "list" will get round the block. Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 (Canada) MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm TRY www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies From dwoerpel at wi.net Fri Oct 1 17:07:30 2010 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (Woerpel) Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2010 18:07:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] I am being bocked In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CA669B2.6090502@wi.net> Barrie, Same thing periodically happens to me. I called my IP and they stated that some IP's were being blocked due to some spam content. Whenever I write Frank, for example, I have a 50:50 shot as to whether Comcast blocks it. Call your IP and let them know what's happening. It took 4 days for them to once again get received by Comcast. Dave W. '59 MGA 1500 Burlington WI On 10/1/2010 8:58 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > If you have sent me an email and got no reply I have an explanation. > My ISP - Telnet is being blocked by some places - the most noticeable > being @msn.com. I have also been blocked by Comcast. Have no idea > what is happening here. Using the "list" will get round the block. > > Regards > > Barrie Robinson > > 705-721-9060 (Canada) > MGB GT V8 > Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm TRY > www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies From don at napanet.net Tue Oct 5 21:48:02 2010 From: don at napanet.net (Don) Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2010 20:48:02 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] car hauling from OH to CA Message-ID: <20101006034812.CAA84AE686@mail.dsl.napanet.net> I just received this email from my friend Dan Grinnell. He used to have a British car repair shop in Santa Rosa CA, now lives back in Ohio and hauls cars. He has hauled several cars for me over the years, a TR8 from PA, a '62 Skylark convertible from CT, and others from various places. I recommend him highly. Headed to Calif mid October with 34 ft open flatbed trailer with ramps and winch. Starting from Akron, Cleveland, Ohio area and headed to Sacramento, Bay Area, Sonoma County. Or even up to Redding or Chico or thereabouts. I am open to going off route, depending on how far and if it makes sense. Can carry up to about 12000 pounds, running or not. Older cars, tractors, pickup trucks, or just plain stuff. I carry tarps and plenty of straps. Cell is 1-330-231-9608. Or email me as I live in a low-reception area. I have done this trip many, many times with all sorts or items. Thanks, Dan Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From g.schnittke at comcast.net Wed Oct 6 18:16:50 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 19:16:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses Message-ID: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> I've been wondering about something. On occasion, or rather, regularly, I'll take a fuse out of what's supposed to be a 15A circuit and the rating will read 35A/32V. A. Is that legit and safe? 2. I would thing the 32V rating will change the amperage, nicht war? III. Someone remind me how Ohm's Law works in my favor or against me here. Glenn -- Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke at comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 From v.navarrette at comcast.net Wed Oct 6 20:53:42 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 19:53:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses In-Reply-To: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> Message-ID: Glenn: The 32v rating simply means that it is an automotive type fuse - it does not affect the current rating of the fuse. As for the actual current rating, it depends on whether it is a British fuse or a US fuse. British fuses are rated using the German DIN standard, which specifies the BLOW current of the fuse. US fuses use the Underwriters Laboratories rating, which specifies the maximum safe current the fuse will pass WITHOUT blowing. To translate between British and US fuses, multiply the British rating by 0.5. So a 35 amp British fuse is equivalent to a 17.5 amp US fuse, which apparently has been rounded down to 15 amps at some point. DO NOT substitute a 35 amp US fuse for a 35 amp British fuse. Doing so will probably set your wiring on fire. So *IF* the 35 amp fuse is British it is legitimate and safe. *IF* the fuse is a US fuse, you are risking a fire and should immediately replace the fuse with one of a proper rating. Most hacks behind the counter of auto parts stores do not know this, so don't trust your average parts jockey to tell you which is which. Hint: US fuses are 1.25" long, British fuses are 1.17" long so they are slightly different sizes. Not enough to cause an issue when you use one in place of the other, but certainly enough that when laid side by side you can see the difference. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Schnittke Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 5:17 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Fuses I've been wondering about something. On occasion, or rather, regularly, I'll take a fuse out of what's supposed to be a 15A circuit and the rating will read 35A/32V. A. Is that legit and safe? 2. I would thing the 32V rating will change the amperage, nicht war? III. Someone remind me how Ohm's Law works in my favor or against me here. Glenn -- Glenn Schnittke From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 7 02:00:05 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 09:00:05 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses References: Message-ID: <9BDF5B3E2EEB4FDC9F63798AB77E5BFB@paul> Simply changing the fuse rating won't do anything, you could put a six-inch nail in and nothing untoward would happen ... *until* you get a short-circuit. If a 35 US fuse has a 70 amp blow rating then whilst the wiring might get a bit warm in the event of a *partial* short (a full short is going to blow that fuse just like a correct fuse) it is unlikely to burst into flames, people put 80 and 100 amp alternators on MGB wiring, which will deliver those currents if asked to. Nevertheless the correct rating *should* be used. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > DO NOT substitute a 35 amp US fuse for a 35 amp British fuse. > Doing so will probably set your wiring on fire. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 7 01:54:15 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 08:54:15 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses References: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> Message-ID: Highly unlikely that an automotive fuse would say '32v' where the 'v' means 'volts', if that is really what it does read then it almost certainly is some kind of part number. All bar one of the MGB fuses were originally 17 amp rated, 35 amp blow, so a fuse will often read that i.e. 17/35. The odd one out is a 500mA fuse for the sequential seat-belt circuit. These are how the cars came out of the factory, you could have anything in-situ now. Amps is amps, the voltage in the circuit is irrelevant in that 15 amps in a circuit designed to work at 12v is exactly the same current as 15 amps in a circuit designed to work at 120v, 1200v or any other voltage. Of course, if you apply 32v to a circuit designed to work at 12v, then you will get nearly three times the current flowing. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I've been wondering about something. On occasion, or rather, regularly, > I'll take a fuse out of what's supposed to be a 15A circuit and the rating > will read 35A/32V. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 7 03:06:01 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 10:06:01 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses References: Message-ID: Generic US fuses maybe, but the US MG parts houses seem to supply the correct 17 amp rated 35 amp blow fuses: Moss US (http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29061&SortOrder=5 item 52) just says 35 amp, as does LBCarCo, Victoria British quotes 17/35 amp so no confusion there. You do need 35amp from these places. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > To translate between British and US fuses, multiply the British > rating by 0.5. So a 35 amp British fuse is equivalent to a 17.5 amp US > fuse, which apparently has been rounded down to 15 amps at some point. > > DO NOT substitute a 35 amp US fuse for a 35 amp British fuse. > Doing so will probably set your wiring on fire. From strovato at optonline.net Thu Oct 7 09:13:02 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 11:13:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses In-Reply-To: References: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0L9X00LA9ECP8HJ0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I think that 32V on an automotive fuse does mean 32 Volt. It is not an uncommon thing to find on an automotive fuse, in the United States, anyway. It doesn't mean that it expects your car to run 32 Volts. It just means that the fuse is rated to function and be safe at up to 32 volts. It's like having 112 mph speed rated tires. They're safe up to 112 mph under specified conditions, but you are not required to drive 112 mph. While we're on the subject of fuses, I think there is a lot of confusion about the concept of "slow-blow" fuses. If you stick a thin piece of wire in a fuse, at a certain current it will melt and open the circuit. If you coil that thin piece of wire around a ceramic core, it will still melt at the same current, but the temperature will rise more slowly because of the heat being absorbed by the core. This is the concept behind the slow-blow fuse. (Implementation details may vary.) Some types of equipment, like electric motors, draw more current when they are starting up than during continuous operation. The slow-blow fuse is sometimes specified in such applications. None of this has anything to do with the fact that the British rate fuses using a different system than Americans. A regular style fuse might be sold with a different amperage designation in England than in the US, but that in and of itself does not make it a "slow-blow" fuse. The speed of a fuse is an actual engineered parameter, and it is different from the nomenclature issue that arises from different countries using different rating systems. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 03:54 AM 10/7/2010, Paul Hunt wrote: >Highly unlikely that an automotive fuse would say '32v' where the >'v' means 'volts', if that is really what it does read then it >almost certainly is some kind of part number. From v.navarrette at comcast.net Thu Oct 7 09:49:40 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 08:49:40 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Paul: That is not correct. The 32V does indeed mean that the fuse is rated for 32 volts. Fuses intended for AC circuits will have 250V stamped on them, meaning that they are rated for use in circuits operating at up to 250 volts. Your assertion about the voltage not affecting the blow current of the fuse is, however, correct. Vance -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 12:54 AM To: Glenn Schnittke; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuses Highly unlikely that an automotive fuse would say '32v' where the 'v' means 'volts', if that is really what it does read then it almost certainly is some kind of part number. All bar one of the MGB fuses were originally 17 amp rated, 35 amp blow, so a fuse will often read that i.e. 17/35. The odd one out is a 500mA fuse for the sequential seat-belt circuit. These are how the cars came out of the factory, you could have anything in-situ now. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I've been wondering about something. On occasion, or rather, regularly, > I'll take a fuse out of what's supposed to be a 15A circuit and the rating > will read 35A/32V. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 7 10:00:28 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 17:00:28 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses References: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> <0L9X00LA9ECP8HJ0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: Don't quite understand why. I can understand a fuse*holder* having a voltage rating as that involves insulation. I know these fuses include a glass tube which is an insulator, but that just holds the ends apart! Unless it's one of those cases where the law dictates that everything electrical must have a voltage rating regardless of how illogical it might be, like having a sell-by date on Worcester sauce. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I think that 32V on an automotive fuse does mean 32 Volt. It is not an >uncommon thing to find on an automotive fuse, in the United States, anyway. >It doesn't mean that it expects your car to run 32 Volts. It just means >that the fuse is rated to function and be safe at up to 32 volts. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 7 11:06:03 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 12:06:03 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses In-Reply-To: References: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> <0L9X00LA9ECP8HJ0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <8B32D75B-5F4F-4354-A121-EBB872C0AE3A@gmail.com> We're talking US here Paul. Of course there's a regulation. On Oct 7, 2010, at 11:00 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Don't quite understand why. I can understand a fuse*holder* having a voltage rating as that involves insulation. I know these fuses include a glass tube which is an insulator, but that just holds the ends apart! Unless it's one of those cases where the law dictates that everything electrical must have a voltage rating regardless of how illogical it might be, like having a sell-by date on Worcester sauce. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> I think that 32V on an automotive fuse does mean 32 Volt. It is not an uncommon thing to find on an automotive fuse, in the United States, anyway. It doesn't mean that it expects your car to run 32 Volts. It just means that the fuse is rated to function and be safe at up to 32 volts. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From strovato at optonline.net Thu Oct 7 11:26:17 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 13:26:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses In-Reply-To: <8B32D75B-5F4F-4354-A121-EBB872C0AE3A@gmail.com> References: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> <0L9X00LA9ECP8HJ0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <8B32D75B-5F4F-4354-A121-EBB872C0AE3A@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0L9X0008UKGPGVC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> According to this page (http://www.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/8005.pdf) on fuse technology: The voltage rating of the fuse must be greater than or equal to the circuit voltage. Because the fuse has such low resistance, the voltage rating becomes critical only when the fuse is trying to open. The fuse must be able to open quickly, extinguish the arc after the fuse element has melted and prevent the system open-circuit voltage from restriking across the open fuse element. Or if you prefer, you can just blame the government. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 01:06 PM 10/7/2010, you wrote: >We're talking US here Paul. Of course there's a regulation. > >On Oct 7, 2010, at 11:00 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > > Don't quite understand why. I can understand a fuse*holder* > having a voltage rating as that involves insulation. I know these > fuses include a glass tube which is an insulator, but that just > holds the ends apart! Unless it's one of those cases where the law > dictates that everything electrical must have a voltage rating > regardless of how illogical it might be, like having a sell-by date > on Worcester sauce. > > > > PaulH. From crk at godblessthe.us Thu Oct 7 13:04:31 2010 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 12:04:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Message-ID: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Hi, I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the manual. What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't grade 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. TIA, Clayton From strovato at optonline.net Thu Oct 7 13:32:13 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 15:32:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: <0L9X00KFHQAQZ6B0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Are you sure that your torque wrench is correct? 25 ft-lbs isn't really very much torque. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 03:04 PM 10/7/2010, Clayton Kirkwood wrote: >Hi, > > > >I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem >oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. >While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem >with the threads of the nuts ripping out. From tink5775 at gmail.com Thu Oct 7 13:32:52 2010 From: tink5775 at gmail.com (Jim Tinkham) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 15:32:52 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Rotor part # Message-ID: Several years back I ordered two rotors from VB for the MGC. The VB part # was 6-664. In short order to boxes marked 6-664 arrived. Well it finally came time to actually install the rotors. When this was attempted it was discovered that only one was made for a 5 lug hub, the other is setup for 4 lugs. How was this possible?? A closer look at the tags on the boxes shows that while both have the 6-664 one also has BTC371 and the other has 815801. The BTC371 I believe was the 5 hole disc and comes up for the big Healey and the MGC. But I can't find what the other # is for. Does anyone know??? We went with a correct matched set from Brembo, so I'll be making these discs available to whomever wants/needs them. Thanks!!!!! Tink From crk at godblessthe.us Thu Oct 7 13:59:46 2010 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 12:59:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <0L9X00KFHQAQZ6B0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <0L9X00KFHQAQZ6B0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <003b01cb665a$31b92c60$952b8520$@us> As far as I know it is correct; it doesn't feel unreasonable, but how would I find out? crk -----Original Message----- From: Steven Trovato [mailto:strovato at optonline.net] Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 12:32 PM To: Clayton Kirkwood; 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Are you sure that your torque wrench is correct? 25 ft-lbs isn't really very much torque. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 03:04 PM 10/7/2010, Clayton Kirkwood wrote: >Hi, > > > >I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem >oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. >While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem >with the threads of the nuts ripping out. From strovato at optonline.net Thu Oct 7 16:28:14 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 18:28:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003b01cb665a$31b92c60$952b8520$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <0L9X00KFHQAQZ6B0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <003b01cb665a$31b92c60$952b8520$@us> Message-ID: <0L9X004J4YG43IG0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Well, there are calibration services. And you can always apply a known force (fish scale?) and knowing the length of the wrench, some math can tell you the torque. The easiest way would be to borrow another torque wrench and do come comparison experiments. If the wrench is a truck brand like Snap-on, Mac, etc. I've heard that some of them have some kind of tester on their trucks. What kind of wrench is it? The "old fashioned" beam type torque wrenches tend to be pretty reliable, because there isn't really a mechanism, it's just physics. Are you sure you've got the torque spec right? I once broke a bolt because the spec said inch-pounds and I applied that many foot-pounds. Of course, if I had engaged my brain I would have realized that it was much too much torque for the size bolt. -Steve At 03:59 PM 10/7/2010, Clayton Kirkwood wrote: >As far as I know it is correct; it doesn't feel unreasonable, but how would >I find out? > >crk From shop at justbrits.com Thu Oct 7 17:24:16 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 18:24:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003b01cb665a$31b92c60$952b8520$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <0L9X00KFHQAQZ6B0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <003b01cb665a$31b92c60$952b8520$@us> Message-ID: <4CAE56A0.1010302@justbrits.com> << ...but how would I find out? >> Which 'type' of wrench, Clay ?? When is last time it was calibrated ??? HAS to be done every so often - PERIOD !! Ed From v.navarrette at comcast.net Thu Oct 7 17:32:23 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 16:32:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: Clayton: Are you sure they are SAE threads on the studs? You don't say which model you are working on, but the possibility exists that they are Whitworth threads, not SAE, metric or Imperial. They may be stripping because only the very edge of the threads are gripping the studs. Is the fit loose/sloppy when you thread the nut on the stud? My Mini-Cooper had Whitworth threads on its rocker adjustment screws. Try finding a screw for them in the US!!! I ended up mail ordering the correct nuts. Vance -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clayton Kirkwood Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 12:05 PM To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; 'MG List' Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Hi, I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the manual. TIA, Clayton From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 7 17:55:04 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2010 16:55:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: Something is wrong here. 25lb/ft can be easily applied with one hand on a 4-inch box wrench. Hard to strip anything bigger than a 5/16 nut if it's made out of anything tougher than pot metal. Try using a box wrench instead of the torque wrench and just tighten it "good and tight", not "as hard as you can". If it still strips, go to a reputable store and get Grade 8 nuts. If you have a pop-off torque wrench, I'd say it's definitely way off -- get it calibrated. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/7/10 12:04 PM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk at godblessthe.us wrote: > Hi, > > > > I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem > oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. > While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem > with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store > and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being > ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to > 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove > metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the > manual. > > > > What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't grade > 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know > these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam > pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. > > > > > > TIA, > > > > Clayton From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Oct 7 19:32:45 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 18:32:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Easily? With a 4" wrench that is 75 lbs. of force you have to apply. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Oct 7, 2010, at 16:55, Max Heim wrote: > Something is wrong here. 25lb/ft can be easily applied with one hand on a > 4-inch box wrench. Hard to strip anything bigger than a 5/16 nut if it's > made out of anything tougher than pot metal. > > Try using a box wrench instead of the torque wrench and just tighten it > "good and tight", not "as hard as you can". If it still strips, go to a > reputable store and get Grade 8 nuts. > > If you have a pop-off torque wrench, I'd say it's definitely way off -- get > it calibrated. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > on 10/7/10 12:04 PM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk at godblessthe.us wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> >> >> I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem >> oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. >> While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem >> with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store >> and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being >> ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to >> 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove >> metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the >> manual. >> >> >> >> What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't grade >> 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know >> these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam >> pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. >> >> >> >> >> >> TIA, >> >> >> >> Clayton > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From crk at godblessthe.us Thu Oct 7 23:02:54 2010 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 22:02:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: <006d01cb66a6$11a10280$34e30780$@us> The fit Is correct. This is a 79 B so I don't think the threads are Whitworth -----Original Message----- From: Vance Navarrette [mailto:v.navarrette at comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 4:32 PM To: 'Clayton Kirkwood'; 'MG List' Subject: RE: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Clayton: Are you sure they are SAE threads on the studs? You don't say which model you are working on, but the possibility exists that they are Whitworth threads, not SAE, metric or Imperial. They may be stripping because only the very edge of the threads are gripping the studs. Is the fit loose/sloppy when you thread the nut on the stud? My Mini-Cooper had Whitworth threads on its rocker adjustment screws. Try finding a screw for them in the US!!! I ended up mail ordering the correct nuts. Vance -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clayton Kirkwood Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 12:05 PM To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; 'MG List' Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Hi, I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the manual. TIA, Clayton From crk at godblessthe.us Thu Oct 7 23:04:45 2010 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 22:04:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <4CAE56A0.1010302@justbrits.com> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <0L9X00KFHQAQZ6B0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <003b01cb665a$31b92c60$952b8520$@us> <4CAE56A0.1010302@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <006e01cb66a6$53b73130$fb259390$@us> The wrench is a sears click, I don't know if they can be calibrated. crk -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 4:24 PM Cc: 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems << ...but how would I find out? >> Which 'type' of wrench, Clay ?? When is last time it was calibrated ??? HAS to be done every so often - PERIOD !! Ed _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/crk at godblessthe.us From crk at godblessthe.us Thu Oct 7 23:06:23 2010 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 22:06:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: <006f01cb66a6$8e89a220$ab9ce660$@us> I'm not sure grade 8s would really help; if I understand correctly, grade 8s are for a different kind of stress. crk -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 4:55 PM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Something is wrong here. 25lb/ft can be easily applied with one hand on a 4-inch box wrench. Hard to strip anything bigger than a 5/16 nut if it's made out of anything tougher than pot metal. Try using a box wrench instead of the torque wrench and just tighten it "good and tight", not "as hard as you can". If it still strips, go to a reputable store and get Grade 8 nuts. If you have a pop-off torque wrench, I'd say it's definitely way off -- get it calibrated. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/7/10 12:04 PM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk at godblessthe.us wrote: > Hi, > > > > I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem > oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. > While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem > with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store > and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being > ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to > 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove > metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the > manual. > > > > What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't grade > 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know > these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam > pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. > > > > > > TIA, > > > > Clayton _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/crk at godblessthe.us From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 8 02:13:47 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 09:13:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses References: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net> <0L9X00LA9ECP8HJ0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <8B32D75B-5F4F-4354-A121-EBB872C0AE3A@gmail.com> <0L9X0008UKGPGVC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: Perfectly understandable, but the fuse wire in these is over an inch long, even 20kV or so from the ignition coil couldn't jump the end caps or even keep an arc going. I've got fuses labelled 250v which are less than half that length. The lowest voltage quoted on that site is 125 volts (and the others are all round numbers), also quite reasonable. 32 volts is a ridiculously low voltage to quote for those fuses, as well as being a very odd value. Blade fuses have the same rating even though the spades are much closer together. It seems to me that someone has labelled all automotive fuses as '32 volt' which is perhaps nothing more than a typical maximum of 24v plus a safety factor, without any regard to what they are actually safe at. None of my fuses show a voltage rating, only a current rating. The upshot is that you can fit any fuse of the correct physical dimensions *and current rating* regardless of its notional voltage rating. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The voltage rating of the fuse must be greater than or equal to the > circuit voltage. Because the fuse has such low resistance, the voltage > rating becomes critical only when the fuse is trying to open. The fuse > must be able to open quickly, extinguish the arc after the fuse element > has melted and prevent the system open-circuit voltage from restriking > across the open fuse element. From shop at justbrits.com Fri Oct 8 02:42:03 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 03:42:03 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <006d01cb66a6$11a10280$34e30780$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <006d01cb66a6$11a10280$34e30780$@us> Message-ID: <4CAED95B.1050203@justbrits.com> Answering all 3 of Clayton's posts inorder I rec'd them !! << The fit Is correct. This is a 79 B so I don't think the threads are Whitworth >> As I have already said, you ARE correct Clay [or do you prefer Clayton??] !! <> Last one I had WAS Clay, but either mail in or take to store. That said, I seem to recall my Snap-On chap telling me they could do them - he still sends out. Machine is FAR to much of a space hop to have on the Dealers' Trucks !!! << I'm not sure grade 8s would really help; if I understand correctly, grade 8s are for a different kind of stress. >> The give better "clamping force" but not in the usage require in this case. Do NOT use. Also, would change the #s used, IIRC - requires more ft/lbs. - which YOU do NOT want !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with MG A & B parts For Sale - SPECIALS] From alan.costich at pictometry.com Fri Oct 8 09:06:23 2010 From: alan.costich at pictometry.com (Alan Costich) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 11:06:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches Message-ID: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> Steven Trovato wrote:"Well, there are calibration services." A few years ago I took my Sears/Craftsman clicker torque wrench in to a Sears Repair facility and asked to get it replaced under warranty. Ha! The counter person looked at me like I was some kind of nutcase. So, I asked to have them calibrate the wrench. After much discussion, they said they could do it, but it would cost as much, if not more than, a new wrench. So, I bought one at a TA truckstop for about $25 or so. And threw away the Sears tool. Alan MG BGT #68 NOTICE: This message is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, Title 18, United States Code, Sections 2510-2521. This e-mail and any attached files are the exclusive property of Pictometry International Corp., are deemed privileged and confidential, and are intended solely for the use of the individual(s) or entity to whom this e-mail is addressed. If you are not one of the named recipient(s) or believe that you have received this message in error, please delete this e-mail and any attachments and notify the sender immediately. Any other use, re-creation, dissemination, forwarding or copying of this e-mail is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Fri Oct 8 09:46:08 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 10:46:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches In-Reply-To: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> Message-ID: <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> I had a similar experience with my Craftsman torque wrench. Fixing would cost more than a new. And the craftsman warranty doesn't cover torque wrenches. On Oct 8, 2010, at 10:06 AM, Alan Costich wrote: > Steven Trovato wrote:"Well, there are calibration services." > > A few years ago I took my Sears/Craftsman clicker torque wrench in to > > a Sears Repair facility and asked to get it replaced under warranty. > > Ha! The counter person looked at me like I was some kind of nutcase. > > > > So, I asked to have them calibrate the wrench. After much discussion, they > > said they could do it, but it would cost as much, if not more than, a new > > wrench. > > So, I bought one at a TA truckstop for about $25 or so. And threw away the > Sears > > tool. > > Alan > > MG BGT #68 > > > > > > NOTICE: This message is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, > Title 18, United States Code, Sections 2510-2521. This e-mail and any attached > files are the exclusive property of Pictometry International Corp., are deemed > privileged and confidential, and are intended solely for the use of the > individual(s) or entity to whom this e-mail is addressed. If you are not one > of the named recipient(s) or believe that you have received this message in > error, please delete this e-mail and any attachments and notify the sender > immediately. Any other use, re-creation, dissemination, forwarding or copying > of this e-mail is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Fri Oct 8 10:05:15 2010 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 12:05:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches In-Reply-To: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> Message-ID: <001e01cb6702$987570a0$c96051e0$@com> There are a lot of other places to get them calibrated, try "torque wrench calibration" in Google. And yes, you may find that Sears will sell you a new one for what it will cost. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.831.1142 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Costich Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 11:06 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches Steven Trovato wrote:"Well, there are calibration services." A few years ago I took my Sears/Craftsman clicker torque wrench in to a Sears Repair facility and asked to get it replaced under warranty. Ha! The counter person looked at me like I was some kind of nutcase. From v.navarrette at comcast.net Fri Oct 8 10:51:00 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 09:51:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Not likely to be whitworth... In-Reply-To: <006d01cb66a6$11a10280$34e30780$@us> Message-ID: Clayton: Agreed. It is unlikely that anything would be Whitworth that late in the production of the B. Although my Mini-cooper was a '74, and it was an interesting mix of Imperial, Metric, and Whitworth. Sigh. Buggered a few nuts trying to put metric on Imperial, and vice versa. Doh! At this point I am inclined to agree with the others, your torque wrench may be mis-calibrated - I have seen it before, especially the cheapie Chinese ones. Vance -----Original Message----- From: Clayton Kirkwood [mailto:crk at godblessthe.us] Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 10:03 PM To: v.navarrette at comcast.net; 'MG List' Subject: RE: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems The fit Is correct. This is a 79 B so I don't think the threads are Whitworth From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 8 10:51:30 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 09:51:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: You can't pick up 75 lbs with one hand? But I didn't really express myself well. What I meant was, I would usually just rely on "feel" to tighten a nut to 25 lb/ft, using a normal box wrench or 3/8 drive (probably more like 7 or 8" long, really); pulling hard but not super-hard. And I certainly wouldn't expect this amount of force to strip a 7/16" or 1/2" nut, which is what I am guessing this stud would be. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/7/10 6:32 PM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote: > Easily? With a 4" wrench that is 75 lbs. of force you have to apply. > Rick > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 7, 2010, at 16:55, Max Heim wrote: > >> Something is wrong here. 25lb/ft can be easily applied with one hand on a >> 4-inch box wrench. Hard to strip anything bigger than a 5/16 nut if it's >> made out of anything tougher than pot metal. >> >> Try using a box wrench instead of the torque wrench and just tighten it >> "good and tight", not "as hard as you can". If it still strips, go to a >> reputable store and get Grade 8 nuts. >> >> If you have a pop-off torque wrench, I'd say it's definitely way off -- get >> it calibrated. >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> >> on 10/7/10 12:04 PM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk at godblessthe.us wrote: >> >>> Hi, >>> >>> >>> >>> I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem >>> oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. >>> While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem >>> with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store >>> and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being >>> ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to >>> 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove >>> metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the >>> manual. >>> >>> >>> >>> What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't grade >>> 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know >>> these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam >>> pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> TIA, >>> >>> >>> >>> Clayton From strovato at optonline.net Fri Oct 8 11:54:46 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 13:54:46 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: <0L9Z00255GH37SV0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Clayton, Let me suggest this one more time. Try another torque wrench. You seem like a nice guy. Don't you have any friends? Invite someone over for a beer and a "torque off". I'm in NY and if you're anywhere near me, I'll volunteer. Find a club. Go introduce yourself to that guy you always see working on his muscle car. I think we're near the limit on what we can do over the internet. Time for actual human contact. You can do it! :-) -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Fri Oct 8 13:37:18 2010 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 21:37:18 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses References: <4CAD1172.3090907@comcast.net><0L9X00LA9ECP8HJ0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net><8B32D75B-5F4F-4354-A121-EBB872C0AE3A@gmail.com><0L9X0008UKGPGVC0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: 32V fuses were typically used on the low voltage circuits of the Data General computers, where I once was a support engineer. Appears to me as a typical USA standard low voltage fuse, not to be used in higher voltages like 110 V in the USA, or even the 230 - V in Europe.... Cheers, Hans 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Steven Trovato" Cc: Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 10:13 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuses > Perfectly understandable, but the fuse wire in these is over an inch long, > even 20kV or so from the ignition coil couldn't jump the end caps or even > keep an arc going. I've got fuses labelled 250v which are less than half > that length. The lowest voltage quoted on that site is 125 volts (and the > others are all round numbers), also quite reasonable. 32 volts is a > ridiculously low voltage to quote for those fuses, as well as being a very > odd value. Blade fuses have the same rating even though the spades are > much closer together. It seems to me that someone has labelled all > automotive fuses as '32 volt' which is perhaps nothing more than a typical > maximum of 24v plus a safety factor, without any regard to what they are > actually safe at. None of my fuses show a voltage rating, only a current > rating. The upshot is that you can fit any fuse of the correct physical > dimensions *and current rating* regardless of its notional voltage rating. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> The voltage rating of the fuse must be greater than or equal to the >> circuit voltage. Because the fuse has such low resistance, the voltage >> rating becomes critical only when the fuse is trying to open. The fuse >> must be able to open quickly, extinguish the arc after the fuse element >> has melted and prevent the system open-circuit voltage from restriking >> across the open fuse element. From rocknatural at gmail.com Fri Oct 8 14:05:00 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 15:05:00 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches In-Reply-To: <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4CAF796C.90807@gmail.com> On 10/8/2010 10:46 AM, Paul Root wrote: > I had a similar experience with my Craftsman torque wrench. > > Fixing would cost more than a new. And the craftsman warranty doesn't cover > torque wrenches. I remember Sears. It used to be a good store. -Rocky Frisco -- From paul at ece.rochester.edu Fri Oct 8 15:08:19 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 17:08:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches In-Reply-To: <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> Message-ID: This is very strange. I took my click Craftsman wrench, 4 yrs old, to the store and told them it did not seem to match the reading of a beam torque wrench , no ?s or ! , they just replaced it with a new one from the rack. I guess it depends on the store and sales person. paul. >I had a similar experience with my Craftsman torque wrench. > >Fixing would cost more than a new. And the craftsman warranty doesn't cover >torque wrenches. > > >On Oct 8, 2010, at 10:06 AM, Alan Costich wrote: > >> Steven Trovato wrote:"Well, there are calibration services." >> >> A few years ago I took my Sears/Craftsman clicker torque wrench in to >> >> a Sears Repair facility and asked to get it replaced under warranty. >> >> Ha! The counter person looked at me like I was some kind of nutcase. >> >> >> >> So, I asked to have them calibrate the wrench. After much discussion, they >> >> said they could do it, but it would cost as much, if not more than, a new >> >> wrench. >> >> So, I bought one at a TA truckstop for about $25 or so. And threw away the >> Sears >> >> tool. >> >> Alan >> >> MG BGT #68 >> >> >> >> >> >> NOTICE: This message is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy >Act, >> Title 18, United States Code, Sections 2510-2521. This e-mail and any >attached >> files are the exclusive property of Pictometry International Corp., are >deemed >> privileged and confidential, and are intended solely for the use of the >> individual(s) or entity to whom this e-mail is addressed. If you are not >one >> of the named recipient(s) or believe that you have received this message in >> error, please delete this e-mail and any attachments and notify the sender >> immediately. Any other use, re-creation, dissemination, forwarding or >copying >> of this e-mail is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From shop at justbrits.com Fri Oct 8 15:57:56 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 16:57:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches In-Reply-To: References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4CAF93E4.7070909@justbrits.com> << they just replaced it with a new one from the rack.>> Not quite Paul, it is just indicative of the fact that the one on the rack is already known to be a POS [and you'll be back]. I just got a GREAT story from my Snap-on Dealer about an hour ago which I will try to relate in a couple hours !! From willis042 at aol.com Fri Oct 8 16:02:43 2010 From: willis042 at aol.com (willis042 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 08 Oct 2010 18:02:43 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: <8CD354BAB05CFAA-FE0-6C27@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com> Hmm...just one other thought... Perhaps some prior twisting of the ole nuts was done by the average Neanderthal, wherein he twisted the nuts til they felt weird and then backed them off a quarter turn! ? In doing so the stud itself could have become stretched (it always stretches in the threads) so that when applying a new nut, the nut goes down to the stretched part, looses contact with the reduced diameter stud and...voila...pulls its little threads out! ? Try a different set of studs, or at least pull one and check the diameter all along the threads. ? studs an nuts ...what a combo... ? Willis ? ? -----Original Message----- From: Clayton Kirkwood <crk at godblessthe.us> To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; 'MG List' <mgs at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, Oct 7, 2010 12:25 pm Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Hi, I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve stem oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to remove metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the manual. What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't grade 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. TIA, Clayton _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/willis042 at aol.com From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Fri Oct 8 18:05:37 2010 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 20:05:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Torque wrench Message-ID: <000c01cb6745$b3ea4430$1bbecc90$@net> A Spitfire owner sent me this interesting technique: "Take your wrench and bathroom scale to the garage. Have your Mrs. join you. Put a wrap of tape around the handle of the torque wrench exactly two feet from the center of its square drive. Put the bathroom scale next to your vise, set the wrench to the torque value you need for the head gasket, then clamp the wrench's square drive in your vice. Stand on the scale and have your wife write down the reading (your weight). Now (while standing on the scale) slowly, steadily pull up on the wrench (ON THE TAPE MARK) until the wrench clicks. Have your wife watch the bathroom scale and record the scale's reading when the wrench clicks. Repeat this a half dozen times and average the readings. Subtract your initial weight reading from the average. And finally, multiply that value by two (2) since you were pulling on the wrench at the 2 foot mark. Compare that to the value you set on the torque wrench and you'll have a good idea how accurate (or inaccurate) your wrench is. Armed with that you can set your wrench accordingly." He had heard a version of this on CarTalk apparently. I tried this on my relatively new wrench and it showed it was reading consistently low (ie I would be inadvertently be under-tightening). Apparently, storing the wrench under load knocks it out of calibration. Interestingly enough though, my old wrench (made in Taiwan but very similar to the ones at HF) was spot on (+/- 0.5 ft-lb) at 10, 20, 30, 40, 50. After 50, things get a bit difficult - which reminds me - a word to the wise - please wear safety glasses and don't use a light weight vise: http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a241/AdrianJones34/Vice.jpg Cheers! Adrian From mg_garage at comcast.net Fri Oct 8 19:39:25 2010 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 21:39:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> Message-ID: <141F1D60B3B244ECA644703F9A7371DD@stargate> Back to the original question, since some of the rocker studs are also head studs, have you experienced the same on the other head studs, or are the head studs okay? You did remove all head nuts in the reverse order of tightening, right? Can you get it tight with a normal 8" or so ratchet without stripping? If so, then a old bar torque wrench is in order. I periodically check my clicker against the bar to make sure it is still close. Others have said that grade 8 wouldn't help, but I'm not so sure. As to the thread, it is standard SAE. HTH Gordie '62 MGA '67 BGT > Hi, > > > > I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve > stem > oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. > While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem > with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store > and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being > ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to > 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to > remove > metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the > manual. > > > > What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't > grade > 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know > these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam > pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. > > > > > > TIA, > > > > Clayton > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5513 (20101007) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com From paul at ece.rochester.edu Fri Oct 8 19:48:00 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 21:48:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches In-Reply-To: <4CAF93E4.7070909@justbrits.com> References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> <4CAF93E4.7070909@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Well that was 3 years ago , has been used on I'm guessing 35 engines lots of rear axles etc and still seems to be accurate. I have cked it with my beam torque wrench and they both read the same. ><< they just replaced it with a new one from the rack.>> > >Not quite Paul, it is just indicative of the fact that the one >on the rack is already known to be a POS [and you'll be back]. > >I just got a GREAT story from my Snap-on Dealer about an hour >ago which I will try to relate in a couple hours !! >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu From riverside at southslope.net Fri Oct 8 22:20:24 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 23:20:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <8CD354BAB05CFAA-FE0-6C27@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <006e01cb6769$4c3c7a50$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> I'll go with stretched studs as the answear to the problem. I've had this problem several times. The 5/16" stud apparrantly stretches easily when overtourqued. Change the stud, use another new 5/16-28 unf nut and the original hardened washer if you still have it. Ron Sanborn ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 5:02 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems > Hmm...just one other thought... > Perhaps some prior twisting of the ole nuts was done by the average > Neanderthal, wherein he twisted the nuts til they felt weird and then > backed > them off a quarter turn! > ? > In doing so the stud itself could have become stretched (it always > stretches > in the threads) so that when applying a new nut, the nut goes down to the > stretched part, looses contact with the reduced diameter stud > and...voila...pulls its little threads out! > ? > Try a different set of studs, or at least pull one and check the diameter > all > along the threads. > ? > studs an nuts ...what a combo... > ? > Willis > ? > ? > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Clayton Kirkwood <crk at godblessthe.us> > To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; 'MG List' <mgs at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thu, Oct 7, 2010 12:25 pm > Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems > > > > > Hi, > > > > I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve > stem > oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. > While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem > with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store > and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being > ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to > 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to > remove > metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the > manual. > > > > What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't > grade > 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know > these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam > pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. > > > > > > TIA, > > > > Clayton > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/willis042 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net From crk at godblessthe.us Fri Oct 8 22:36:53 2010 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 21:36:53 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <141F1D60B3B244ECA644703F9A7371DD@stargate> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <141F1D60B3B244ECA644703F9A7371DD@stargate> Message-ID: <015a01cb676b$9938f700$cbaae500$@us> The head studs don't have a problem and they are like 1/2 inch. These are the 5/16 rocker only studs. I bought new studs and have the same problem with the new nuts which were supposed to be grade 5. I went today to ACE and hopefully these nuts are truly grade 5. Thread count is 24. I will check with the newest nuts tomorrow. I'll be back. Clayton -----Original Message----- From: gordies garage [mailto:mg_garage at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 6:39 PM To: Clayton Kirkwood; 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Back to the original question, since some of the rocker studs are also head studs, have you experienced the same on the other head studs, or are the head studs okay? You did remove all head nuts in the reverse order of tightening, right? Can you get it tight with a normal 8" or so ratchet without stripping? If so, then a old bar torque wrench is in order. I periodically check my clicker against the bar to make sure it is still close. Others have said that grade 8 wouldn't help, but I'm not so sure. As to the thread, it is standard SAE. HTH Gordie '62 MGA '67 BGT > Hi, > > > > I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve > stem > oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from. > While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem > with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store > and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being > ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to > 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to > remove > metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the > manual. > > > > What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't > grade > 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know > these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam > pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated. > > > > > > TIA, > > > > Clayton > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5513 (20101007) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Oct 8 22:50:26 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 21:50:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches In-Reply-To: References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora> <5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> <4CAF93E4.7070909@justbrits.com> Message-ID: A couple of things to note about torque wrenches. First off the clicker type that you wind up the handle will go out of calibration if not wound back to their lowest setting as soon as you are done using them. When I worked as a line tech, I sent in each of my Snap-On wrenches once a year for calibration. Next is torque wrenches are terribly inaccurate at less than 20% of full scale. So if you have a torque wrench that reads to 100 ft-lbs, and you want to torque something to 10 Ft-lbs it will probably only be +/- 20% accurate. Maybe worse. At above 20% of full scale the wrench might be =/- 5% or less. Lastly you can't check a torque wrench with another torque wrench. It takes more torque to get a fastener turning than it does to keep it turning. This is why torque instructions always say to torque in one smooth movement. I used to prove this to my students in rear axle class. Torque spec on the pinion nut was 180-200 Ft-lbs. I would have them torque the nut to 160 Ft-lbs (below spec) then reset the wrench to 200 and it would click off without turning. It would usually take 220-230 Ft-lbs to get movement on the nut that was torqued to 160. Rick On Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 6:48 PM, Paul Osborne wrote: > Well that was 3 years ago , has been used on I'm guessing 35 engines lots > of rear axles etc and still seems to be accurate. I have cked it with my > beam torque wrench and they both read the same. > > << they just replaced it with a new one from the rack.>> >> >> Not quite Paul, it is just indicative of the fact that the one >> on the rack is already known to be a POS [and you'll be back]. >> >> I just got a GREAT story from my Snap-on Dealer about an hour >> ago which I will try to relate in a couple hours !! >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Oct 9 03:17:17 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 10:17:17 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems now Torque wrenches References: <9282779AF656A047BE65F330F91F160325375BFC36@Aurora><5EF0145F-E653-4203-9A02-AB020B6AA725@gmail.com> <4CAF93E4.7070909@justbrits.com> Message-ID: You can't tighten a fastener with one torque wrench then try it with another torque wrench for the reasons you say, but connecting two torque wrenches together with a bit of 1/2" or whatever box tubing should be a good enough indication. Even in the first case you should be able to mark the position of nut and stud after the first, then back-off and retighten with another and compare the marks. Which one is right is another matter ... ----- Original Message ----- > Lastly you can't check a torque wrench with another torque wrench. > It takes more torque to get a fastener turning than it does to keep it > turning. From v.navarrette at comcast.net Sat Oct 9 14:51:55 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 13:51:55 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <141F1D60B3B244ECA644703F9A7371DD@stargate> Message-ID: <1172EF280262425C923F732B68C6885D@HOMEBREW1> Gordie: Technically speaking, MG fasteners are not SAE, but rather are Imperial threads. There are subtle differences between the two standards, but since SAE was derived from Imperial, they will happily coexist in 99% of the cases out there. There are a few cases where British and US/SAE parts will not coexist, such a BSPT (British Straight Pipe Thread) for which there is no US equivalent (that I am aware). However, BPT and NPT are fully compatible. Just wanted to clarify that point, lest people think that MG used SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) standards - they did not. 'Course, all of this ignores the fact that most cars now, even US made cars, are metric. But we won't go there... It's a French system. 'nuff said. Vance -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gordies garage Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 6:39 PM To: Clayton Kirkwood; 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Back to the original question, since some of the rocker studs are also head studs, have you experienced the same on the other head studs, or are the head studs okay? As to the thread, it is standard SAE. HTH Gordie From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 9 18:35:40 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 09 Oct 2010 19:35:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <1172EF280262425C923F732B68C6885D@HOMEBREW1> References: <1172EF280262425C923F732B68C6885D@HOMEBREW1> Message-ID: <4CB10A5C.4090404@justbrits.com> << 'nuff said. >> 'fraid not, Vance. Just too much mis-information to the masses. << Technically speaking, MG fasteners are not SAE, but rather are Imperial threads. >> Close but no cigar. After 50ish years of working on MG's that statement is just flat wrong. Now IF you would like to say that MGB [full range] and MG Midgets [ the Austin-Healey inspired ones] were assemble with UNF and/or BSF, I agree. And I HAVE removed plenty of Original fasteners which were either replaced with UNF or SAE. Never did find ANYTHING called "Imperial". I have now been thru several Factory Service Shop Manuals, Factory Service Parts Manuals, a couple of the Big Boy Catalogs, AND on of the UK's larger Fastener Specialist Catalog with the following "result": The closest "mention" of Imperial is a conversion chart for Imperial to Metric. << There are a few cases where British and US/SAE parts will not coexist,>> Incorrect again. BSF vs UNF/SAE NEVER 'coexist' TPIs do NOT come close. Now should you like me to say that a SAE CAN be FORCED into a BSF 'hole', YEP - had to repair. No where NEAR as easy to get a UNF/SAE fastener INTO a BSF hole however ! << Just wanted to clarify that point, lest people think that MG used SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) standards - they did not. >> Did along with UNF. << But we won't go there... It's a French system. >> That statement whilst basically correct does NOT apply because of the British adaptions. For instance, some of the internal fasteners in XPAG MG "T" Series" Motors ARE of the French based system. Get away for the INTERNALS and all IIRC remaining fasteners for "T" Series are of the British Metric "system" aka Whitworth. . WAIT, forgot that some of fasteners in the Fuel Systems on "T" Series Cars are BSFs !!! HTHs & I am pretty sure Gordie know most of above !!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] '72 Black Tulip MGB [Murial wearing STD IL plates CinsB 73 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [Spridget parts & memorabilia FOR SALE there!!] [a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3 & DMH !! ] [MG A & B parts & memorabilia FOR SALE as well there!!] From g.schnittke at comcast.net Sat Oct 9 19:14:43 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Sat, 09 Oct 2010 20:14:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses Message-ID: <4CB11383.3010106@comcast.net> Interesting take Paul, but normally an overrating is an unpublished overrating. Normally a design factor is built into any mechanical or electrical device so that when the user plugs in his numbers, the numbers stand a better chance of working than if the published numbers are really at the limit of performance. Typically the NEC will rate a certain number of a particular gauge wires allowed in a certain size conduit with a specific percentage chopped of the top in order to ensure that in case of overload, the installation should not fail. I would be VERY surprised if the TRUE fail load was stamped on the fuse. On rigging equipment the actual fail value is never stamped on the equipment. There is always a design factor built into the load limit even if the manufacturer is China or Taiwan. My take on buying Chinese rigging bits is that I build a design factor of 5 to 1 from the stated working load limit and never buy Chinese if I'm working with live loads or flying people. I'm trying to come to this same understanding of fuse design and rating. I have noticed that no one has addressed Ohm's Law. I've been inundated at work and putting up what turned out to be a very successful car show this weekend in Nashville and can't wrap my head around it. Will a fuse rated for 15 amps at 32 volts blow at about the same energy level as a fuse rated for 35 amps at 12 volts? Glenn > Perfectly understandable, but the fuse wire in these is over an inch long, >> even 20kV or so from the ignition coil couldn't jump the end caps or even >> keep an arc going. I've got fuses labelled 250v which are less than half >> that length. The lowest voltage quoted on that site is 125 volts (and the >> others are all round numbers), also quite reasonable. 32 volts is a >> ridiculously low voltage to quote for those fuses, as well as being a very >> odd value. Blade fuses have the same rating even though the spades are >> much closer together. It seems to me that someone has labelled all >> automotive fuses as '32 volt' which is perhaps nothing more than a typical >> maximum of 24v plus a safety factor, without any regard to what they are >> actually safe at. None of my fuses show a voltage rating, only a current >> rating. The upshot is that you can fit any fuse of the correct physical >> dimensions *and current rating* regardless of its notional voltage rating. >> >> PaulH. -- Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke at comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 From crk at godblessthe.us Sat Oct 9 19:45:20 2010 From: crk at godblessthe.us (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 18:45:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <0L9Z00255GH37SV0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <0L9Z00255GH37SV0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <019101cb681c$cd0d1230$67273690$@us> Allright, this is where I am now. I used a regular wrench and tightened "good and tight" with just a smidgeon of movement still left. I tried the click torque wrench, and I could feel more turn available but didn't turn much more and left things where they were. The reading on the torque wrench was 25 and that was the lowest number. Someone indicated that the low end would be pretty inaccurate. I went driving and continued to see the original problem of billows of blue smoke upon harder acceleration after strong suction. The conclusion is that the valve seals weren't the cause of the smoke, which leaves the problem being caused by the rings! Next step is work on the rings. At this point, I see two options. 1) remove the engine and tear it down, send it in to a engine shop, and then rebuild with whatever new parts necessary, or 2) pop the head and the sump and remove the pistons, check for broken or damaged rings and proper sizing of pistons and cylinders and possibly honing cylinders, replace with proper-sized pistons and rings, etc. Is it even worth the effort of trying to do the work with the engine still in the car, or should I remove the engine and go the full route? Thanks, Clayton -----Original Message----- From: Steven Trovato [mailto:strovato at optonline.net] Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 10:55 AM To: Clayton Kirkwood; 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Clayton, Let me suggest this one more time. Try another torque wrench. You seem like a nice guy. Don't you have any friends? Invite someone over for a beer and a "torque off". I'm in NY and if you're anywhere near me, I'll volunteer. Find a club. Go introduce yourself to that guy you always see working on his muscle car. I think we're near the limit on what we can do over the internet. Time for actual human contact. You can do it! :-) -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net From v.navarrette at comcast.net Sat Oct 9 21:42:38 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 20:42:38 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <4CB10A5C.4090404@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed: Au contraire, mon ami. SAE uses a 60 degree thread angle Whitworth, British Standard Fine, British Standard Coarse and other British standards (collectively called "Imperial") use a 55 degree thread angle. The exception was the BSC (British standard Cycle - used exclusively on Motorcycles and bicycles) used the 60 degree angle. There are some other minor differences. Imperial threads have rounded crowns, while SAE have flat crowns. The most important specifications, thread pitch, major and minor diameters are identical since the US effectively followed the British standards through history except as noted. Later, the standards converged to UNC and UNF (called unified for rather obvious reasons) to universally use the 60 degree thread angle. Check Wikipedia. Don't take my word for it. Wikipedia refers to the various British standards as "Imperial" standards - so I am not making this up. To see the differences in construction, look here: http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/unf.html click on the links at the top of the page to see the specifications for the various fasteners. Note that BSF does not equal UNF although the differences are slight. I don't think any of this changes the bottom line - the British fasteners are fully compatible with the SAE (More properly called ASME these days as I recall - American Society of Mechanical Engineers) that you will find in the corner hardware stores. It all gets very messy as standards changed. Makes my head spin just thinking about it, kinda like Linda Blair in "The Exorcist" =:-o Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 5:36 PM Cc: 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems << 'nuff said. >> 'fraid not, Vance. Just too much mis-information to the masses. HTHs & I am pretty sure Gordie know most of above !!! Ed '67 BJ-7 From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Oct 10 04:11:57 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 11:11:57 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems References: <1172EF280262425C923F732B68C6885D@HOMEBREW1> <4CB10A5C.4090404@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <8418E6026D2E46B294A7403D869E7EDB@paul> "Imperial" refers to the measurement system used e.g. rods, poles and perches instead of metric, not to the shape of the thread. ----- Original Message ----- > ... Never did find ANYTHING called "Imperial". From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Oct 10 04:25:48 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 11:25:48 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Fuses References: <4CB11383.3010106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <305B944376904FDEA30FC894D158DDE0@paul> This was answered right at the very beginning - amps is amps and is dependant on the actual voltage and resistance (i.e. Ohm's Law) in a circuit. A fuse has a resistance (albeit very small) of its own, current flowing through it causes a voltage to be dropped across it and hence watts in the form of heating power developed in it. When the heating effect exceeds the melting point of the fuse wire it melts and breaks the circuit. A fuse designed to blow at 35 amps is going to do so regardless of whether the voltage in the circuit is 1.2v, 12v, 120v or 1200v. What happens *after* the fuse blows does depend on the maximum voltage rating of the fuse and the voltage in the circuit, but that can be ignored for factory fuses in a factory circuit on an MGB, even if those fuses *are* only rated for use up to 32v. For a start it's only 12v, and secondly it would take a couple of thousand volts and an inductive load to jump something the length of a blown MGB fuse. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I have noticed that no one has addressed Ohm's Law. > > Will a fuse rated for 15 amps at 32 volts blow at about the same energy > level as a fuse rated for 35 amps at 12 volts? From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Oct 10 10:04:49 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 09:04:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] RE: rocker threads causing problems In-Reply-To: <019101cb681c$cd0d1230$67273690$@us> References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <0L9Z00255GH37SV0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <019101cb681c$cd0d1230$67273690$@us> Message-ID: <687871.67631.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Pull the entire engine. That way, if you pull the head and discover major work to be done, you won't have to reinstall the head before you can pull the engine. I guess you could pull it without the head if you use straps (like I do) but seems to me it is easier to just pull the lump and transmission and get it into some good light for an inspection. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Clayton Kirkwood To: MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com Sent: Sat, October 9, 2010 9:45:20 PM Subject: [MG-MGB] RE: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Allright, this is where I am now. I used a regular wrench and tightened "good and tight" with just a smidgeon of movement still left. I tried the click torque wrench, and I could feel more turn available but didn't turn much more and left things where they were. The reading on the torque wrench was 25 and that was the lowest number. Someone indicated that the low end would be pretty inaccurate. I went driving and continued to see the original problem of billows of blue smoke upon harder acceleration after strong suction. The conclusion is that the valve seals weren't the cause of the smoke, which leaves the problem being caused by the rings! Next step is work on the rings. At this point, I see two options. 1) remove the engine and tear it down, send it in to a engine shop, and then rebuild with whatever new parts necessary, or 2) pop the head and the sump and remove the pistons, check for broken or damaged rings and proper sizing of pistons and cylinders and possibly honing cylinders, replace with proper-sized pistons and rings, etc. Is it even worth the effort of trying to do the work with the engine still in the car, or should I remove the engine and go the full route? Thanks, Clayton -----Original Message----- From: Steven Trovato [mailto:strovato at optonline.net] Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 10:55 AM To: Clayton Kirkwood; 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Clayton, Let me suggest this one more time. Try another torque wrench. You seem like a nice guy. Don't you have any friends? Invite someone over for a beer and a "torque off". I'm in NY and if you're anywhere near me, I'll volunteer. Find a club. Go introduce yourself to that guy you always see working on his muscle car. I think we're near the limit on what we can do over the internet. Time for actual human contact. You can do it! :-) -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From bachldrs at airadv.net Sun Oct 10 12:41:08 2010 From: bachldrs at airadv.net (Allen Bachelder) Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 14:41:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 5 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is the point at which I would stop trying to figure out what's wrong and just order new studs with the appropriate nuts. Even though your '79 is relatively "recent" as MGs go, who knows what the "evil PO" has done to your car. For all we know, your rocker studs could have come from True Value or Home Depot; perhaps coarse thread with SAE nuts forced on them. Just replace the studs and get on with life. If the new correct studs strip out in the head, you may need to install helicoils. FWIW, Allen From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 11 01:51:47 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 08:51:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] RE: rocker threads causing problems References: <003301cb6652$7a197030$6e4c5090$@us> <0L9Z00255GH37SV0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <019101cb681c$cd0d1230$67273690$@us> <027801cb682e$f262b2d0$6600a8c0@hplaptop> <4CB17623.4090708@googlemail.com> <000301cb68ae$a90d2400$fb276c00$@us> Message-ID: <257CCC4BD595487B9EF1353ACF63B31E@paul> Who would you be kidding if you did? You would still be using oil even if it didn't emit smoke (which I doubt would be the case anyway). You surely don't expect oil is going to remain as oil after combustion and keep building up? Even if it didn't actually burn it's going to get pushed out into the exhaust. And blue smoke after a period of idling or on the overrun has been a symptom of valves/guides/seals in my book. Rings causes blow-by, and a large difference in dry and wet cylinder pressures. A different oil *may* not leak past the valves as much, but that would be revealed by lower oil consumption. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Also, a thought from last night just before dreamland. What if I replace > the > dino oil with synthetic? Somebody told me some time ago, that syn doesn't > burn. If that is the case, what if I replace the oil with syn: I shouldn't > have blue smoke. The only thing would be a hydraulic buildup of fluid in > the > cylinder. Any thoughts? From mgbob at juno.com Mon Oct 11 08:48:49 2010 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 14:48:49 GMT Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Message-ID: <20101011.104849.27191.6@webmail19.vgs.untd.com> Though it is possible to remove R&R pistons and rings with engine in the car, better work can be done with engine out. R&R of the engine is about four hours each way if you have a helper and good luck with rusted fastenings. Even if it were to turn out that cylinders have no oval or tapered wear and do not need machine shop attention, with engine out there is opportunity to clean up the accumulated dirt, paint inaccessible items and do other maintenance chores. If the head is already off, one can lift by the head studs, and you might as well replace all the studs because of their unknown history. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Clayton Kirkwood" To: "'MG List'" , Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 18:45:20 -0700 Allright, this is where I am now. I used a regular wrench and tightened "good and tight" with just a smidgeon of movement still left. I tried the click torque wrench, and I could feel more turn available but didn't turn much more and left things where they were. The reading on the torque wrench was 25 and that was the lowest number. Someone indicated that the low end would be pretty inaccurate. I went driving and continued to see the original problem of billows of blue smoke upon harder acceleration after strong suction. The conclusion is that the valve seals weren't the cause of the smoke, which leaves the problem being caused by the rings! Next step is work on the rings. At this point, I see two options. 1) remove the engine and tear it down, send it in to a engine shop, and then rebuild with whatever new parts necessary, or 2) pop the head and the sump and remove the pistons, check for broken or damaged rings and proper sizing of pistons and cylinders and possibly honing cylinders, replace with proper-sized pistons and rings, etc. Is it even worth the effort of trying to do the work with the engine still in the car, or should I remove the engine and go the full route? Thanks, Clayton From cyberemp at comcast.net Mon Oct 11 13:50:21 2010 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 19:50:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] Rings (Was rocker threads) In-Reply-To: <487165199.182380.1286826619393.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2004419948.182387.1286826621682.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 18:45:20 -0700 F.W.I.W. My first car (1967 Cortina GT) Had the same symptoms and removal of the head revealed a 1/4 inch wide grove worn vertically in cyl. wall. I guessed it was a broken ring, but did not have the tools, space $ or time to take it apart further. Eventually the city had my beloved money pit towed away. :( First car. I loved that thing, even though it left a trail of broken parts where ever it went. Taught me the basics of automotive mechanics just keeping it running. Eric Still so many cars, so little parking (Original letter) << Message-ID: Clayton - How's your oil pressure - after at least 35 minutes of driving? If everything else was solid, I'd say 50# is fine, but if you're going to solve the blue cloud problem, you're going to rebore the cylinders, do oversize pistons, and do whatever head work might be necessary. OK, so you put it all back together and in another 20-30K miles you may very well see your oil pressure dropping. So, if your oil pressure is under 60# or so at 3000 rpm after 35 minutes of running/driving, I'd be tempted to do the entire engine and be done with it. And what are your compression numbers now? If you're sucking that much oil, I can't imagine they're very impressive. Even if your main, con-rod bearings, and wristpins are above borderline now, how quickly will they wear once you restore full compression? Get it all done, be done with it, and drive for many thousands more miles without worry. My '73 has 236,000 miles on it, with engine rebuilt at about 195,000. After 24 years, it's still my car of choice for long trips, even if they have nothing to do with my MG addiction. I just drive it because it is my car. And I don't worry either. Small stuff can and does break on a 37 year-old car - and while I hardly ever have to, I can fix stuff like that on the road. The engine will gradually wear out over the next 150,000 miles and then I'll rebuild it again. In the meantime, I simply don't worry about it. I can't imagine that anything cataclysmic is going to happen. Well, yes it could happen - and with equal likelihood something cataclysmic could happen with my wife's new Equinox with 3500 miles on it. Certainly if you plan to keep this car a long time, total rebuilding is the way to go. I admit to using the "shotgun" approach to problems like this, but I hate to pull an engine twice for what could be done while you pull the engine once. While you're at it: new clutch, main seal, and transmission first motion shaft seal, OF COURSE (if you pull it twice, that's TWO new clutches, main seals and tranny front seals), strip, paint, and detail engine bay (unless yours is pristine anyway). FWIW, Allen PS: Regarding whoever does your engine machine work... Get to know him, personally and by reputation - WELL - before entrusting him to the work! From g.schnittke at comcast.net Mon Oct 11 19:35:37 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 20:35:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems Message-ID: <4CB3BB69.9090102@comcast.net> Paul's right. That would be hiding the problem. Vocal coaches warn against singers spraying Chlorasceptic when they get a sore throat because they can no longer feel their limits. A *Sensible* athletic coach should disdain pain killers for the same reason. Attacking the symptom will only ensure that the injury will get worse and end a career or an engine's useful life too soon. Fix the real problem and you won't have any symptoms and an engine that will last much longer. I think you had already entered dreamland. Glenn > Who would you be kidding if you did? You would still be using oil even if > it didn't emit smoke (which I doubt would be the case anyway). You surely > don't expect oil is going to remain as oil after combustion and keep > building up? Even if it didn't actually burn it's going to get pushed out > into the exhaust. > ----- Original Message ----- >> > Also, a thought from last night just before dreamland. What if I replace >> > the >> > dino oil with synthetic? Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke at comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 From rshellen at comcast.net Fri Oct 15 11:15:22 2010 From: rshellen at comcast.net (E. Ronald Shellenberger) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:15:22 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic Message-ID: I'll start by saying I know just enough computer stuff to get into trouble. I ocassionaly find info her that I would to keep, but don't want to print the whole toay's topic. Can anyone can guide me to be able to just print out a part of the e-mail topic. Thanks, Ron Shellenberger To many MGBs and parts to count + a 20 yr restoration on a 67 GT Just painted a 89 Porsche 944 Winter project engine change and underhood detail of 66 Volvo 122S Get engine finished and back in a 65 B to drive next summer Repair a 64 B race car and decide what to do with it next From mgbob at juno.com Fri Oct 15 11:33:31 2010 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 17:33:31 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic Message-ID: <20101015.133331.8489.4@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> One way is to first open a blank page in MS Word, then highlight the text in the email you want to save, press Control C. Return to Word, click the cursor at the top, press Control V. Then you can print the MS Word doc. Cumbersome, but that's how I do it. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "E. Ronald Shellenberger" To: Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:15:22 -0400 I'll start by saying I know just enough computer stuff to get into trouble. I occasionally find info here that I would to keep, but don't want to print the whole day's topic. Can anyone can guide me to be able to just print out a part of the e-mail topic. Thanks, Ron Shellenberger From strovato at optonline.net Fri Oct 15 11:58:45 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:58:45 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic In-Reply-To: <20101015.133331.8489.4@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> References: <20101015.133331.8489.4@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <0LAC00JHGFAP9IM0@mta6.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I would select (highlight) the text I want. Then go to file, print. In the dialog that appears, under print range, I choose "selection". Then only the selected text prints. I am using Eudora (not a mainstream choice, I know) on a PC running XP, so YMMV, as they say. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 01:33 PM 10/15/2010, mgbob at juno.com wrote: >I'll start by saying I know just enough computer stuff to get into trouble. I >occasionally find info here that I would to keep, but don't want to print the >whole day's topic. Can anyone can guide me to be able to just print out a >part of the e-mail topic. From cyberemp at comcast.net Fri Oct 15 13:08:40 2010 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 19:08:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] printing just what you want In-Reply-To: <305607491.406777.1287169711700.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1079887695.406783.1287169720669.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Another way is to use a second email account, or copy paste to a new letter. either way, subject line can be changed to your liking. Print the resulting letter Eric From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 15 19:45:48 2010 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 20:45:48 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic In-Reply-To: <20101015.133331.8489.4@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> References: <20101015.133331.8489.4@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4CB903CC.9070601@sbcglobal.net> Ron, If you don't have MW Word, you can use Wordpad or Notepad which are included with Windows. A nice thing about this technique is that it works with about any email program. Charles Hill On 10/15/2010 12:33 PM, mgbob at juno.com wrote: > One way is to first open a blank page in MS Word, then highlight the text in > the email you want to save, press Control C. Return to Word, click the cursor > at the top, press Control V. Then you can print the MS Word doc. Cumbersome, > but that's how I do it. > Bob > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "E. Ronald Shellenberger" > To: > Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic > Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:15:22 -0400 > > I'll start by saying I know just enough computer stuff to get into trouble. I > occasionally find info here that I would to keep, but don't want to print the > whole day's topic. Can anyone can guide me to be able to just print out a > part of the e-mail topic. > > Thanks, Ron Shellenberger From rshellen at comcast.net Sat Oct 16 06:03:11 2010 From: rshellen at comcast.net (E. Ronald Shellenberger) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 08:03:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of yopic Message-ID: Thanks to all that helped- sometimes you read the answer and go --duh Sorry but Steve but your suggestion must only work for Eudora, I tried it for XP and got whole topic Thanks to all Ron Shellenberger From strovato at optonline.net Sat Oct 16 08:36:12 2010 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 10:36:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of yopic In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0LAE0076S0KI5120@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> What email program are you using? -Steve At 08:03 AM 10/16/2010, E. Ronald Shellenberger wrote: >Thanks to all that helped- sometimes you read the answer and go --duh >Sorry but Steve but your suggestion must only work for Eudora, I tried it for >XP and got whole topic From barrie at look.ca Sat Oct 16 15:08:20 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 17:08:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic In-Reply-To: <4CB903CC.9070601@sbcglobal.net> References: <20101015.133331.8489.4@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> <4CB903CC.9070601@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I use Eudora and Word and it works fine - more than fine! - GREAT At 09:45 PM 10/15/2010, Charles Hill wrote: > Ron, >If you don't have MW Word, you can use Wordpad or Notepad which are >included with Windows. A nice thing about this technique is that it >works with about any email program. > >Charles Hill > >On 10/15/2010 12:33 PM, mgbob at juno.com wrote: >> One way is to first open a blank page in MS Word, then >> highlight the text in >>the email you want to save, press Control C. Return to Word, click the cursor >>at the top, press Control V. Then you can print the MS Word doc. Cumbersome, >>but that's how I do it. >>Bob >> >> >>---------- Original Message ---------- >>From: "E. Ronald Shellenberger" >>To: >>Subject: [Mgs] Printing just part of topic >>Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:15:22 -0400 >> >>I'll start by saying I know just enough computer stuff to get into trouble. I >>occasionally find info here that I would to keep, but don't want to print the >>whole day's topic. Can anyone can guide me to be able to just print out a >>part of the e-mail topic. >> >>Thanks, Ron Shellenberger >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705--721-9060 From dadstr250 at gmail.com Sun Oct 17 12:28:46 2010 From: dadstr250 at gmail.com (Michael Malling) Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 14:28:46 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Don Malling's 73 MGB & TR6 Message-ID: Hey all, not sure if you guys still remeber my dad or not, but he was a memeber of these groups and I thought to send this to you guys first. We have a 1973 MGB which was in fine running condition about 5 years ago and at TR6 ( not sure of the year) from Texas which he was planning on using as parts car for a restoration. These cars are in Friendsville, PA ( Close to0 Binghamton, NY) right now and I am attempting to see if there is anyone with any interest in them . The following link has pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/jrebels5/20101013# At this point I think we are just looking to get them to someone who will be able to use them. Contact me if you have any questions, I know a pretty good deal about the MGB as I worked on it and drove it in highschool, but the TR6 I know little about. Also if anyone can suggest a better forum / group to post this too, please let me know as well. Thanks. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Wed Oct 20 15:56:46 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:56:46 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Windscreen replacement Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D9F3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> My 64B is in the midst of a windshield replacement. It is mostly to replace the solidified rubber seals although the windshield itself also has some scratches likely due to a flying wiper problem. I decided in this case to have a local windshield shop do the work. The manager quoted a price slightly higher than a new windshield would cost from Moss but also includes installation. My original plan was to have them do both the 64B and the 72B, the 72B just needs new seals. I dropped the 64B off this morning, hoping it would be in for just a few hours. But they have run into complications. I hope this doesn't impact my plan of getting both cars done but maybe I should have done the 72 first. The 72B windshield was on/off about five years ago but the body shop installed the bottom seal incorrectly so its folded back under (if you know what I mean) and it leaks. But back to the 64B - they are having trouble removing the windscreen. One of those under the dash bolts may have been cross-threaded by the DPO so they are having problems removing it, indicating the head of the bolt is about to break off. What size are these bolts? I need to locate at least a replacement although its likely a common size. I do recall an article some years back that suggested using a GM bolt of some kind, with the pointed tip, that allows it to guide in easier. Anyone know what those bolts might be? David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From eugeneb at nni.com Wed Oct 20 20:20:30 2010 From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski) Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 22:20:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Late Alternator In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0723C94F@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: All, Well, the Alternator light on the dash was just starting to illuminate when I brought the car home the other night. Raise the rpm a bit and it goes out. I have never seen it do that before so it is probably time for an alternator. It is the original one. I will check the voltage regulator, belt tension, and connections, but in the event that an alternator is called for, what is the general wisdom ? Auto Zone supposedly has a direct Lucas replacement (45 AMP rating), for $112.00 including core fee. Moss has one for $119.00 However, I understand that the preferred method is to use a higher output GM alternator with appropriate wiring change. Can someone re-enlighten me? Thanks, Gene 80 B --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ From palte at gmx.net Thu Oct 21 00:25:03 2010 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:25:03 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Late Alternator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20101021062503.65270@gmx.net> Hi Gene, >From the symptoms you describe, it looks that probably it is just the carbon brushes that are shot. These are in the $5 - 10 range. I strongly recommend that you examine the alternator first, as I have found that several "rebuilt" alternators are c**p. IIRC you need a 1/4" AF hex socket for dismantling the black cover at the rear of the alternator. Just my $ .02 worth. Bert 70 B > All, > > Well, the Alternator light on the dash was just starting > to illuminate when I brought the car home the other night. > Raise the rpm a bit and it goes out. I have never seen it > do that before so it is probably time for an alternator. > It is the original one. > > I will check the voltage regulator, belt tension, and > connections, but in the event that an alternator is called > for, what is the general wisdom ? Auto Zone supposedly > has a direct Lucas replacement (45 AMP rating), for $112.00 > including core fee. Moss has one for $119.00 > > However, I understand that the preferred method is to > use a higher output GM alternator with appropriate wiring > change. Can someone re-enlighten me? > > Thanks, > > Gene 80 B > -- Neu: GMX De-Mail - Einfach wie E-Mail, sicher wie ein Brief! Jetzt De-Mail-Adresse reservieren: http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/demail From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 21 01:56:47 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:56:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Late Alternator References: Message-ID: If the original has not given you any problems before there seems little point in fitting a non-standard type and lose originality as well as having to make wiring changes, but if you can get a used one for a lot less money then I suppose that would count in it's favour. As well as brushes one or more of the diodes can have failed open or short-circuit which can give excessive noise and/or heat as well as low output. Unfortunately those can cause other problems through overstressing, so in theory unless it *is* brushes then maybe a replacement would be best. But rebuilds are also an unknown quantity as has been mentioned. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Well, the Alternator light on the dash was just starting > to illuminate when I brought the car home the other night. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 21 02:27:42 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 09:27:42 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Windscreen replacement References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D9F3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <5CBFE123CF7F426B8847219C5B269FB7@paul> I *think* they are 3/8" by 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" coarse thread, but the easiest thing is to use one of the ones that has come out as a pattern. Also easy enough to grind a point on a standard bolt of a suitable length, but the correct bolts are available from the usual suspects anyway. The big problem is going to be removing the broken stud, at least enough to get the screen out. If the bolt goes through a plain hole in the packing piece first, and then into thread in the frame legs, you should only need to drill through the packing piece to remove the frame, then you can attack the threaded part on the bench where you will be able to get to both sides. But I also seem to recall (car not handy) that there is a cover panel on the outside of the frame legs visible when the door is open, which if removed may give access to the thread from the other side to apply releasing fluid or heat. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > But back to the 64B - they are having trouble removing the windscreen. > One of those under the dash bolts may have been cross-threaded by the > DPO so they are having problems removing it, indicating the head of the > bolt is about to break off. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 21 06:10:39 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 07:10:39 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Late Alternator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3C375376-DAB5-470C-A819-F13B023D4556@gmail.com> I got one from O'Reilly last year I believe for a bit less. Life time warrenty. As to replacing with a GM alternator. I never had trouble getting enough power for my car with the stock. If you've added a lot of electronics to the car, you might need it. On Oct 20, 2010, at 9:20 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote: > All, > > Well, the Alternator light on the dash was just starting > to illuminate when I brought the car home the other night. > Raise the rpm a bit and it goes out. I have never seen it > do that before so it is probably time for an alternator. > It is the original one. > > I will check the voltage regulator, belt tension, and > connections, but in the event that an alternator is called > for, what is the general wisdom ? Auto Zone supposedly > has a direct Lucas replacement (45 AMP rating), for $112.00 > including core fee. Moss has one for $119.00 > > However, I understand that the preferred method is to > use a higher output GM alternator with appropriate wiring > change. Can someone re-enlighten me? > > Thanks, > > Gene 80 B > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. > http://www.nni.com/ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From g.schnittke at comcast.net Thu Oct 21 14:07:05 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 15:07:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CC09D69.1000801@comcast.net> I have a question. Why do all the books and conventional wisdom warn heavily against taking the calipers apart when doing a brake job? There isn't much in there that meets the eye, and the pistons are so much easier to deal with when the halves are apart, not to mention painting and general cleaning. It's not like you have a sealing problem with the 'o' ring between the faces. Advise and consent. Glenn Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke at comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Thu Oct 21 17:07:44 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 17:07:44 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Windscreen replacement In-Reply-To: <5CBFE123CF7F426B8847219C5B269FB7@paul> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D9F3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <5CBFE123CF7F426B8847219C5B269FB7@paul> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07514A48@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Thanks Paul. In the end, the success came from that cover plate you mentioned, held on by 6 rivets. The bolt did snap and the shop called me to tell me I would have to remove the bolt before they would continue. I was worried they might just give up and not do the windshield. Instead, things worked out as I just exchanged the 64B with my 72B to have them replace the windscreen seals on it. I generally don't farm out the work on my MGs but the windshield sounded like a job I didn't want to do. The bolt that snapped on the 64B was the top one on the passenger side. I thought I would have to remove the dash to access it, so I started on the glove box removal first. That was enough to get me pretty good access to the bolt but for some reason, none of my drill bits or dremel tools seemed to do anything. So I decided to remove the cover plate to see what other options I might have. The end of the bolt was not exposed enough to try it from the other side but I could see the extent of the problem because the spacer was holding it all in. I used a chisel as a wedge to introduce a small gap between spacer and windshield frame and then using a small hacksaw in the gap, hacksawed the excess bolt piece off. Its all off now and took about two hours total. And for now, the remaining part of the bolt is not a problem because I was going to use a different frame anyhow. This one is pitted on the inside frame plus the DPO cut off the metal post that goes down the middle of the windshield. I had a windshield spare, also from a Mk1 B, in much better shape except for the cracks in the glass. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk] Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 2:28 AM To: Councill, David; MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Windscreen replacement I *think* they are 3/8" by 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" coarse thread, but the easiest thing is to use one of the ones that has come out as a pattern. Also easy enough to grind a point on a standard bolt of a suitable length, but the correct bolts are available from the usual suspects anyway. The big problem is going to be removing the broken stud, at least enough to get the screen out. If the bolt goes through a plain hole in the packing piece first, and then into thread in the frame legs, you should only need to drill through the packing piece to remove the frame, then you can attack the threaded part on the bench where you will be able to get to both sides. But I also seem to recall (car not handy) that there is a cover panel on the outside of the frame legs visible when the door is open, which if removed may give access to the thread from the other side to apply releasing fluid or heat. PaulH. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 22 01:59:35 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 08:59:35 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Windscreen replacement References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D9F3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <5CBFE123CF7F426B8847219C5B269FB7@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07514A48@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <51A2ACBD9C524FC4A575636587209989@paul> Useful info, thanks for that. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... So I decided to remove the cover plate to see what other options I might have. The end of the bolt was not exposed enough to try it from the other side but I could see the extent of the problem because the spacer was holding it all in. I used a chisel as a wedge to introduce a small gap between spacer and windshield frame and then using a small hacksaw in the gap, hacksawed the excess bolt piece off. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 22 01:55:54 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 08:55:54 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers References: <4CC09D69.1000801@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9E80DB73F76A450B96557DF54EEFC75B@paul> Maybe because you are supposed to replace the bolts, and only use special ones specifically for that purpose from BMC Service Ltd. Getting the bolts is likely to be a bigger job than parting and reassembling. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >Why do all the books and conventional wisdom warn heavily against taking >the calipers apart when doing a brake job? From shop at justbrits.com Fri Oct 22 03:10:02 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 04:10:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers In-Reply-To: <9E80DB73F76A450B96557DF54EEFC75B@paul> References: <4CC09D69.1000801@comcast.net> <9E80DB73F76A450B96557DF54EEFC75B@paul> Message-ID: <4CC154EA.8080907@justbrits.com> << Maybe because you are supposed to replace the bolts, and only use special ones specifically for that purpose from BMC Service Ltd. Getting the bolts is likely to be a bigger job than parting and reassembling. >> And the Service Bulletin [I have "somewhere"] has a blurb about the number of threads to which a certain 'glue' [like our current Loc-Tite] must be in place, Paul. Ed PS: And the Bulletin also is the ONLY place where I have seen a Torque value !?! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 22 03:25:47 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 10:25:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers References: <4CC09D69.1000801@comcast.net> <9E80DB73F76A450B96557DF54EEFC75B@paul> <4CC154EA.8080907@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <97CFE85DF2A747EF94F9009ACCB49857@paul> My Leyland Workshop Manual quotes 35.5 to 37(!) ft lb but no mention of thread lock. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > PS: And the Bulletin also is the ONLY place where I have seen a Torque > value !?! From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Oct 22 04:07:08 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 05:07:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers In-Reply-To: <4CC09D69.1000801@comcast.net> References: <4CC09D69.1000801@comcast.net> Message-ID: <731813.86716.qm@smtp112.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Because the manufacturer wanted to sell new calipers? No problem taking it apart. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/spl/spl_1500_a.pdf At 03:07 PM 10/21/2010 -0500, Glenn Schnittke wrote: >.... Why do all the books and conventional wisdom warn heavily >against taking the calipers apart when doing a brake job? .... >.... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 22 04:31:39 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 11:31:39 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers References: <4CC09D69.1000801@comcast.net> <731813.86716.qm@smtp112.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1F6EC9ACCC6644289EEE3471AAAFD3C0@paul> Parting it is no problem, you could do that with an axe ... It's the reassembly that is the issue, and if it was simply a matter of wanting to sell more callipers there wouldn't be half as much information on dismantling and repair in the rest of the manuals as there is. Brakes are pretty critical, possibly more than steering. ----- Original Message ----- > Because the manufacturer wanted to sell new calipers? No problem taking > it apart. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/spl/spl_1500_a.pdf From g.schnittke at comcast.net Fri Oct 22 22:44:51 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2010 23:44:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers Message-ID: <4CC26843.8040002@comcast.net> So, if I buy the story that it's about the bolts, and that's the one that *kind of* makes sense to me, please tell me what's so special about the bolts. I wasn't aware that 'one-torque-only' bolts had been invented that early. Grading? Particular thread? Glenn > Maybe because you are supposed to replace the bolts, and only use special > ones specifically for that purpose from BMC Service Ltd. Getting the bolts > is likely to be a bigger job than parting and reassembling. > > PaulH. > -- I have a hunch that the Arabs will use their oil billions not to modernize their countries but to redress the balance between the Christian West and the Islamic East. Eric Hoffer, 11/30/74 Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke at comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Oct 22 23:36:50 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 00:36:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers In-Reply-To: <4CC26843.8040002@comcast.net> References: <4CC26843.8040002@comcast.net> Message-ID: <373367.8394.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> It's because the bolts have a touch of thread lock stuff on the threads which is supposed to be single use only. You can just as well reassemble the original bolts with a touch of Loctite. At 11:44 PM 10/22/2010 -0500, Glenn Schnittke wrote: >So, if I buy the story that it's about the bolts, and that's the one >that *kind of* makes sense to me, please tell me what's so special >about the bolts. I wasn't aware that 'one-torque-only' bolts had >been invented that early. Grading? Particular thread? >.... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Oct 23 02:48:57 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 09:48:57 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers References: <4CC26843.8040002@comcast.net> <373367.8394.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1E3C993E80604B998591A3C64EC87616@paul> I doubt it's that either. Elsewhere on MGBs of this era one is told to clean old threadlock off removed bolts immediately or put them in a bath of 3M Solvent No. 2, trichloroethylene, petrol or paraffin before cleaning otherwise the old sealant will air-harden which will affect torqueing up and also subsequent removal when reusing the bolts. It's difficult to escape the conclusion from this, the statement that very specific bolts must be used, the very tight tolerance for torqueing of 35.5 to 37 ft lb, and no mention of thread sealant, that the bolts are indeed one-use. Reuse at your own risk. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > It's because the bolts have a touch of thread lock stuff on the threads > which is supposed to be single use only. You can just as well reassemble > the original bolts with a touch of Loctite. From paul at ece.rochester.edu Sun Oct 24 20:26:55 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 22:26:55 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers In-Reply-To: <373367.8394.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4CC26843.8040002@comcast.net> <373367.8394.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks Barney, I too have been doing just that for 35 +yrs and have rebuilt well over 50 units and yet to have one fail , due to bolts. p >It's because the bolts have a touch of thread lock stuff on the >threads which is supposed to be single use only. You can just as >well reassemble the original bolts with a touch of Loctite. > -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Elec Eng Dept 201 Hopeman Bldg RC Rochester NY 14627 585-275-5226 From mike at sportscarslimited.net Mon Oct 25 10:04:47 2010 From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 09:04:47 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers In-Reply-To: References: <4CC26843.8040002@comcast.net><373367.8394.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If one cleans & inspects the threaded area of the caliper bolts carefully, you will note a small drilled out area, perpendicular to the bolt length that has a piece of nylon inserted into it. That is the thread locking bit. It is the bolt equivalent of a nylock nut. That bit gets used up upon its first use. The nylon bit is not replaceable. Re use is therefore up to the wisdom/bravery of the rebuilder. Loctite only claims to be good up to something like 300 degrees F. Check out the package disclaimers. Brake calipers may get very hot, depending on usage factors. Many have had good luck in re-using the old parts, but do not claim not to have been forewarned. It is possible that someone like Earl's Supply or other high performance fastener supplier would have the equivalent parts available. Best of luck, Mike Michael Singleton Sportscars Ltd 10170 Croydon Way Suite M Sacramento, CA 95826 (916)366-0330 mike at sportscarslimited.net -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Osborne Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 7:27 PM To: Barney Gaylord Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake calipers Thanks Barney, I too have been doing just that for 35 +yrs and have rebuilt well over 50 units and yet to have one fail , due to bolts. p >It's because the bolts have a touch of thread lock stuff on the threads >which is supposed to be single use only. You can just as well >reassemble the original bolts with a touch of Loctite. > -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Elec Eng Dept 201 Hopeman Bldg RC Rochester NY 14627 585-275-5226 _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike at sportscarslimited.net From g.schnittke at comcast.net Mon Oct 25 19:05:50 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 20:05:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake calipers Message-ID: <4CC6296E.6040604@comcast.net> > If one cleans & inspects the threaded area of the caliper bolts carefully, > you will note a small drilled out area, etc. Now THAT would make sense, and might call for a tight torque tolerance as too tight might compromise one side of the nylon part of the thread. I'll buy that. As far as the Loctite question goes, I would think nylon would have somewhat the same low operating temps So I'll go with the Loctite and tighten to bolt torque. Thank you all for the info. Glenn Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke at comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Thu Oct 28 09:19:59 2010 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 11:19:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Tony Roth Message-ID: Listers, Just received sad news from the Classic MG Club or Orlando of the passing of Tony Roth, a friend and long-time MG supporter. For those that knew Tony he was a warm and welcoming member of our MG fraternity. For more information, I enclose the club's website. CMGCO at cfl.rr.com Dave Houser From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Thu Oct 28 09:55:48 2010 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 11:55:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Tony Roth Message-ID: <61832109-D4A9-4835-8DE5-75E204044807@tampabay.rr.com> Listers, Here is the website rather than just the email address. Home page undergoing an update. Sorry for any confusion. www.classicmgclub.com Dave From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Oct 30 08:18:40 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 09:18:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer Message-ID: Did anyone else get an email from Britannia Parts? I got two, one to each email address. If I'd just gotten one, I have passed it off as I signed up for a mailing list. But I got it to both. I have 1 account for general stuff, and one account for just car stuff. Keeps things organized in my mind. But I was always accidently sending from the other account. So I registered it as an account that receives nothing from the mailing list. So when I have 2 messages side by side from the same place, I know I didn't sign up. Sorry no real MG content, mine went into hibernation last weekend. Paul. From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 30 09:02:17 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 10:02:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <184B536BEB8246C1B36FEF33B4C6815A@HomePC> I got it, too, Paul. At least this spammer allowed us to unsubscribe -- unlike the clown from the Kent Collection that just ignores your request. BTW, don't you love how they "unsubscribe" you. Kind of implies that you "subscribed" in the first place. Larry -----Original Message----- From: Paul Root Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:18 AM To: Mga List Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer Did anyone else get an email from Britannia Parts? I got two, one to each email address. If I'd just gotten one, I have passed it off as I signed up for a mailing list. But I got it to both. I have 1 account for general stuff, and one account for just car stuff. Keeps things organized in my mind. But I was always accidently sending from the other account. So I registered it as an account that receives nothing from the mailing list. So when I have 2 messages side by side from the same place, I know I didn't sign up. Sorry no real MG content, mine went into hibernation last weekend. Paul. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Oct 30 09:15:08 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 16:15:08 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer References: <184B536BEB8246C1B36FEF33B4C6815A@HomePC> Message-ID: <08F1DA951F7149C4AEF78EAF44B5E587@paul> I never unsubscribe from these, it just confirms it is a used address. The Kent Collection emails just stopped, time will tell with this one. ----- Original Message ----- >I got it, too, Paul. At least this spammer allowed us to unsubscribe -- > unlike the clown from the Kent Collection that just ignores your request. From lkinmonth at comcast.net Sat Oct 30 09:59:40 2010 From: lkinmonth at comcast.net (Lily Kinmonth) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:59:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer In-Reply-To: <08F1DA951F7149C4AEF78EAF44B5E587@paul> References: <184B536BEB8246C1B36FEF33B4C6815A@HomePC> <08F1DA951F7149C4AEF78EAF44B5E587@paul> Message-ID: We got it too. Sent from my iPad On Oct 30, 2010, at 11:15 AM, "Paul Hunt" wrote: > I never unsubscribe from these, it just confirms it is a used address. The Kent Collection emails just stopped, time will tell with this one. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> I got it, too, Paul. At least this spammer allowed us to unsubscribe -- >> unlike the clown from the Kent Collection that just ignores your request. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lkinmonth at comcast.net From degraff at erols.com Sat Oct 30 09:52:35 2010 From: degraff at erols.com (Elliott and Martha DeGraff) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:52:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] If you're near Mt. Airy, MD Message-ID: <4CCC3F43.9070908@erols.com> There are two junked MGB GTs at Crazy Race Auto Parts, 3927 Twin Arch Road, Mt. Airy, MD. You'll have to bring your own tools and pull what you want. Lots of dash board parts. Motors are pretty well stripped, but the blocks are there. Happy hunting! Elliott DeGraff Poolesville, MD From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 30 10:02:46 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:02:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <6285A8E25C02463AB21D9BCDE274F962@WORLDCARS> References: <6285A8E25C02463AB21D9BCDE274F962@WORLDCARS> Message-ID: <805A77ED2395443C90989B5D84A25D06@HomePC> From: the kent car collection Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 10:17 AM To: Larry Daniels Subject: clown Larry As you so call me i am the clown from kent car collection, firstly the only email you received from us was regarding MG`s which im pretty sure is one of your passions so seems very strange that you would be Disapointed to find you received an email relating to an MG for sale, secondly the email and every email we send out on our mailing list has a clear link at the bottom to Unsubscribe, I personally find it hard to judge some one i have not met and certainly would not call them a clown having not met them, after 15 years in the Business and sending over 3,000 cars world wide i dont see any clowns here do you. ************************************************************* Well, you didnbt give your name, so I guess Ibll just have to call you Mr. Clown. Now, Mr. Clown, I have tried your bunsubscribeb link. It didnbt work. Three times it didnbt work. I emailed you asking to be bunsubscribedb from your mailing list that I never bsubscribedb to. Still receive your garbage. I have seen numerous others complain of the same thing. I never asked to receive your commercial messages. I did ask NOT to receive it. You ignored that. You are a spammer. Larry P.S. NOW will you unsubscribe me? From stargazer1 at cox.net Sat Oct 30 10:05:12 2010 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 09:05:12 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CCC4238.7040203@cox.net> They're using Mailchimp.com; a legitimate company. If you expand your mail headers, there's an abuse link you can use to report them. I just submitted a report. I suggest a few other people do so too. Be sure to tell them you never subscribed and that the probably harvested your email address. Mailchimp's abuse reporting page is here: http://www.mailchimp.com/abuse/report-abuse/ Britannia will get their tail roasted, and we can go back to our MG's . Cheers, Dave Ambrose On 10/30/2010 7:18 AM, Paul Root wrote: > Did anyone else get an email from Britannia Parts? I got two, one to each > email address. If I'd just gotten one, I have passed it off as I signed up for > a mailing list. But I got it to both. > > I have 1 account for general stuff, and one account for just car stuff. Keeps > things organized in my mind. But I was always accidently sending from the > other account. So I registered it as an account that receives nothing from the > mailing list. > > So when I have 2 messages side by side from the same place, I know I didn't > sign up. > > Sorry no real MG content, mine went into hibernation last weekend. From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 30 10:13:50 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:13:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Britannia parts In-Reply-To: References: <31A5E3DD54F44B239D03A615C292BB26@MikesLaptop> Message-ID: <4CCC443E.1020508@justbrits.com> << They're in Quebec, based on the information from their site. >> Interesting, Jody. MGs List got it also. Following is offered up FWIW & FYI : Domain names in the .com and .net domains can now be registered with many different competing registrars. Go to http://www.internic.net for detailed information. Domain Name: BRITANNIAPARTS.COM Registrar: NAMESCOUT CORP-----------------[See below] Whois Server: whois.namescout.com Referral URL: http://www.namescout.com Name Server: NS1.BRITANNIAPARTS.COM Name Server: NS2.BRITANNIAPARTS.COM Status: ok Updated Date: 27-jun-2010 Creation Date: 07-dec-2009----------------------[22 years, huh??] Expiration Date: 07-dec-2015 NameScout Corp. Barbados [Country of Registration of Co.] From thier site: " Australia's Best Value " Still "smells" to me. And if you go to: http://britanniaparts.com/ you get lamest page I've ever seen. Then click on their button that says: *** * "Skip to main Content", IT goes to: http://britanniaparts.com/#main which is the lamest 'store' I have ever seen. Dat's all, folks !! Ed PS: Link in the mail goes to: http://britanniaparts.com/?utm_source=Britannia+Parts+and+Conversions&utm_campaign=abf0364e44-Your_Source_for_British_Car_Parts10_4_2010&utm_medium=email REALLY POOR 'direction' !! From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sat Oct 30 11:02:44 2010 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 10:02:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <805A77ED2395443C90989B5D84A25D06@HomePC> Message-ID: <536631.20057.qm@web112102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Sat, 10/30/10, Larry Daniels wrote: > ...firstly the only > email you received from us was regarding MG`s which im > pretty sure is one of > your passions so seems very strange that you would be > Disapointed to find you > received an email relating to an MG for sale, I've received a lot of emails from the "Kent Collection" and I can't recall any of them being about MGs. From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 30 11:26:02 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 12:26:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <536631.20057.qm@web112102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <536631.20057.qm@web112102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4CCC552A.9080403@justbrits.com> << I can't recall any of them being about MGs. >> I remember at least ONE [1], David !! It was a "T" Series car !!! Ed From mjanacek at snet.net Sat Oct 30 12:15:15 2010 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 14:15:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <4CCC552A.9080403@justbrits.com> References: <536631.20057.qm@web112102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4CCC552A.9080403@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4CCC60B3.1090508@snet.net> Yeah, I got that "T" one too Ed. I've also got a couple MGA's from them, but never a "B". Mike On 10/30/2010 1:26 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << I can't recall any of them being about MGs.>> > > I remember at least ONE [1], David !! > > It was a "T" Series car !!! > > Ed From rocknatural at gmail.com Sat Oct 30 13:10:03 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 14:10:03 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <805A77ED2395443C90989B5D84A25D06@HomePC> References: <6285A8E25C02463AB21D9BCDE274F962@WORLDCARS> <805A77ED2395443C90989B5D84A25D06@HomePC> Message-ID: <4CCC6D8B.5010509@gmail.com> On 10/30/2010 11:02 AM, Larry Daniels wrote: > From: the kent car collection > Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 10:17 AM > To: Larry Daniels > Subject: clown > > Larry > > As you so call me i am the clown from kent car collection, firstly the only > email you received from us was regarding MG`s which im pretty sure is one of > your passions so seems very strange that you would be Disapointed to find you > received an email relating to an MG for sale, secondly the email and every > email we send out on our mailing list has a clear link at the bottom to > Unsubscribe, I personally find it hard to judge some one i have not met and > certainly would not call them a clown having not met them, after 15 years in > the Business and sending over 3,000 cars world wide i dont see any clowns here > do you. Personally, I enjoy the pictures. -Rocky Frisco -- From pchast at francomm.com Sat Oct 30 13:32:07 2010 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 15:32:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I got their mail. On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 10:18:40 -0400, Paul Root wrote: > > Did anyone else get an email from Britannia Parts? I got two, one to each > email address. If I'd just gotten one, I have passed it off as I signed > up for > a mailing list. But I got it to both. > > I have 1 account for general stuff, and one account for just car stuff. > Keeps > things organized in my mind. But I was always accidently sending from the > other account. So I registered it as an account that receives nothing > from the > mailing list. > > So when I have 2 messages side by side from the same place, I know I > didn't > sign up. > > Sorry no real MG content, mine went into hibernation last weekend. > > Paul. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Oct 30 14:03:55 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 15:03:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <978805.22863.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I got the same message on at least six different e-mail addresses, one of my own and five addresses associated with our MG club officers. None of these e-mail addresses ever visited that web site or subscribed to his list (as far as I know), so these are obviously broadcast spam messages. I set a filter rule for this a long time ago, so all six messages landed properly in the spam bucket. FWIW, I did click the Unsubscribe button to unsubscribe all six addresses. I think I did that once before, but will keep an eye out for future messages. At 09:18 AM 10/30/2010 -0500, Paul Root wrote: >Did anyone else get an email from Britannia Parts? I got two, one to each >email address. .... >.... From barrie at look.ca Sat Oct 30 14:58:23 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 16:58:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer In-Reply-To: <978805.22863.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <978805.22863.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gentlemen, As someone who continually searches for suppliers of Brit parts I found the spam quite acceptable as it is in my area of interest. I consider anything like this that fits my hobbies/work (oops sorry! I don't work anymore) is acceptable. Even Kent whatsit. It's when I get blah from fashion/cosmetics/real estate/insurance/ and how tp improve your worth/organisation/breath/ and penile dimensions. At 04:03 PM 10/30/2010, Barney Gaylord wrote: >I got the same message on at least six different e-mail addresses, >one of my own and five addresses associated with our MG club >officers. None of these e-mail addresses ever visited that web site >or subscribed to his list (as far as I know), so these are obviously >broadcast spam messages. I set a filter rule for this a long time >ago, so all six messages landed properly in the spam bucket. > >FWIW, I did click the Unsubscribe button to unsubscribe all six >addresses. I think I did that once before, but will keep an eye out >for future messages. > > >At 09:18 AM 10/30/2010 -0500, Paul Root wrote: >>Did anyone else get an email from Britannia Parts? I got two, one to each >>email address. .... >>.... >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705--721-9060 From stargazer1 at cox.net Sat Oct 30 15:51:20 2010 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 14:51:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <805A77ED2395443C90989B5D84A25D06@HomePC> References: <6285A8E25C02463AB21D9BCDE274F962@WORLDCARS> <805A77ED2395443C90989B5D84A25D06@HomePC> Message-ID: <4CCC9358.40700@cox.net> The correct protocol is to post an INVITATION. Then, people can join if they desire. But, if you go harvest email addresses and start mailing away, you're a spammer. You're probably violating US law, but more importantly, your ISP's terms of acceptable use. If anyone wants to complain, we can trace the Kent Collection's email back to the source, and lodge our complaints there and with the company serving their web site. That should more or less, pull the plug on their entire operation. If we really want to be mean, we can turn them over to the loving embrace of 4chan. Regards, Dave Ambrose On 10/30/2010 9:02 AM, Larry Daniels wrote: > From: the kent car collection > Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 10:17 AM > To: Larry Daniels > Subject: clown > > Larry > > As you so call me i am the clown from kent car collection, firstly the only > email you received from us was regarding MG`s which im pretty sure is one of > your passions so seems very strange that you would be Disapointed to find you > received an email relating to an MG for sale, secondly the email and every > email we send out on our mailing list has a clear link at the bottom to > Unsubscribe, I personally find it hard to judge some one i have not met and > certainly would not call them a clown having not met them, after 15 years in > the Business and sending over 3,000 cars world wide i dont see any clowns here > do you. > > > > ************************************************************* > > > > Well, you didnbt give your name, so I guess Ibll just have to call you Mr. > Clown. > > Now, Mr. Clown, I have tried your b unsubscribeb link. It didnbt work. > Three times it didnbt work. I emailed you asking to be b unsubscribedb > from your mailing list that I never b subscribedb to. Still receive your > garbage. I have seen numerous others complain of the same thing. > > I never asked to receive your commercial messages. I did ask NOT to receive > it. You ignored that. > > You are a spammer. > > > Larry > > P.S. NOW will you unsubscribe me? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1 at cox.net From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 30 16:01:53 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 17:01:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <4CCC9358.40700@cox.net> References: <6285A8E25C02463AB21D9BCDE274F962@WORLDCARS> <805A77ED2395443C90989B5D84A25D06@HomePC> <4CCC9358.40700@cox.net> Message-ID: <4CCC95D1.9060304@justbrits.com> << If we really want to be mean, we can turn them over to the loving embrace of 4chan. >> And they only give out "loving bear hugs", right Dave ?!? Anon From barrie at look.ca Sat Oct 30 12:14:34 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 14:14:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] looks like we got a spammer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Paul, I only got one - I have 3 email accounts. Me, business, and wife's yoga stuff. But I have contacted them as I am running a group or 23 bodies all owners of Aston Martin DB2 or DB 2/4 and they say they have parts. Trouble is that suppliers these day use the GM/Ford/Jap mentality for describing parts. (I go to the local shop and ask for a 1 inch 3/8 NSF bolt and they ask "Is it for a GM or Ford car?"). The web site of Brit Parts just names parts in the manner of "Master Break Cylinder" - duh ! But I will pursue them. I am eying the weather - should I have the last blast or not ? Should I jack it up on stands? Last year there were spectacular days around Xmas when I went for a run.....................Sod's Law states that if I do NOT jack it up - the weather will be foul. At 10:18 AM 10/30/2010, Paul Root wrote: >Did anyone else get an email from Britannia Parts? I got two, one to each >email address. If I'd just gotten one, I have passed it off as I signed up for >a mailing list. But I got it to both. > >I have 1 account for general stuff, and one account for just car stuff. Keeps >things organized in my mind. But I was always accidently sending from the >other account. So I registered it as an account that receives nothing from the >mailing list. > >So when I have 2 messages side by side from the same place, I know I didn't >sign up. > >Sorry no real MG content, mine went into hibernation last weekend. > >Paul. >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From Aeseeyou at aol.com Sat Oct 30 16:55:30 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 18:55:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] clown Message-ID: In a message dated 10/30/2010 9:03:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: I never asked to receive your commercial messages. I did ask NOT to receive it. You ignored that. You are a spammer. Larry P.S. NOW will you unsubscribe me? -------------------------------------------- Hooey! Wow, Larry.....Remind me never to get your ire up. You are one very Bad Hombre! Hey, does that pertain to Birthday cards as well? But, in all seriousness, I finally had to literally type in "Kentcarcollection.com" into my Spam filter, because I too, was getting inundated by Mr. Clowns daily barrage of used car ads! Yes I was rather perturbed at their insolence and the continuous ignoring of my persistent pleas that they "unsubscribe me" something I too was very perturbed about that definition because it seemed to imply that I had one time knowingly "subscribed" to the "Kentcarcollection.com" And I hadn't done anything of the sort but was just another of the many on this list and elsewhere who had (and this was a perfect example) been Spammed by this pretentious used car salesman. Did he actually think we'd never seen an MG or any one of his so-called "Classic Cars" before?? So Thank you Larry and I'm sure that others wish they had stated their case as well as you did yours... --==Safety-Fast!==-- Alberto Escalante From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 30 17:57:06 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 18:57:06 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8F69CDC630FC4A77AFB449C7DED2ADAB@HomePC> AE, what you haven't seen is Mr. Clown's continued persistence in further emails to me insisting he has the right to spam me. I guess my expressed preference NOT to receive his crap makes no difference to him. I finally had to ignore him and his crap. What a fine businessman. I understand that a few people here don't mind spam. Fine. That doesn't mean we all don't mind it. And, certainly, we have a right to not receive it. I am a businessman, too. I understand the need to attract customers. I don't understand the thinking that they have the right to intrude on our lives and force their crap on us -- ESPECIALLY after we have told him to stop. Note to future spammers: maybe you should ask permission from the list that you are harvesting email addresses from to advertise your services. Rather than intruding on our lives, you could just post to the list what you have to offer ONCE and ask US to contact YOU if we are interested. I could live with that. I might even do business with you. I, personally, will never do business with you if you spam me. I don't care what you have to offer. That is an automatic. Period. I doubt that I am alone in that. Larry Daniels PS AE, my birthday is November 24th. Cards are welcome. Cards with cash in them are even more welcome. Delivering them in person so that we can go to some saloon and spend that cash is best yet. LD -----Original Message----- From: Aeseeyou at aol.com Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 5:55 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] clown In a message dated 10/30/2010 9:03:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: I never asked to receive your commercial messages. I did ask NOT to receive it. You ignored that. You are a spammer. Larry P.S. NOW will you unsubscribe me? -------------------------------------------- Hooey! Wow, Larry.....Remind me never to get your ire up. You are one very Bad Hombre! Hey, does that pertain to Birthday cards as well? But, in all seriousness, I finally had to literally type in "Kentcarcollection.com" into my Spam filter, because I too, was getting inundated by Mr. Clowns daily barrage of used car ads! Yes I was rather perturbed at their insolence and the continuous ignoring of my persistent pleas that they "unsubscribe me" something I too was very perturbed about that definition because it seemed to imply that I had one time knowingly "subscribed" to the "Kentcarcollection.com" And I hadn't done anything of the sort but was just another of the many on this list and elsewhere who had (and this was a perfect example) been Spammed by this pretentious used car salesman. Did he actually think we'd never seen an MG or any one of his so-called "Classic Cars" before?? So Thank you Larry and I'm sure that others wish they had stated their case as well as you did yours... --==Safety-Fast!==-- Alberto Escalante _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From charleyrob at gmail.com Sat Oct 30 19:39:01 2010 From: charleyrob at gmail.com (Robinson Charley) Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:39:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <8F69CDC630FC4A77AFB449C7DED2ADAB@HomePC> References: <8F69CDC630FC4A77AFB449C7DED2ADAB@HomePC> Message-ID: <7786EBBD-674C-4F90-B111-8E9AB607D899@gmail.com> Larry, where do you live? I might just have a local tavern I'd take you to for some birthday drinks - I'm always up for a party! I received a couple of those email but just deleted them if I wasn't interested and haven't received anything since. Charley Robinson On Oct 30, 2010, at 7:57 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > AE, what you haven't seen is Mr. Clown's continued persistence in further > emails to me insisting he has the right to spam me. I guess my expressed > preference NOT to receive his crap makes no difference to him. I finally > had to ignore him and his crap. What a fine businessman. > > I understand that a few people here don't mind spam. Fine. That doesn't > mean we all don't mind it. And, certainly, we have a right to not receive > it. I am a businessman, too. I understand the need to attract customers. > I don't understand the thinking that they have the right to intrude on our > lives and force their crap on us -- ESPECIALLY after we have told him to > stop. > > Note to future spammers: maybe you should ask permission from the list that > you are harvesting email addresses from to advertise your services. Rather > than intruding on our lives, you could just post to the list what you have > to offer ONCE and ask US to contact YOU if we are interested. I could live > with that. I might even do business with you. I, personally, will never do > business with you if you spam me. I don't care what you have to offer. > That is an automatic. Period. I doubt that I am alone in that. > > Larry Daniels > > PS AE, my birthday is November 24th. Cards are welcome. Cards with cash > in them are even more welcome. Delivering them in person so that we can go > to some saloon and spend that cash is best yet. > > LD From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 31 04:22:41 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 06:22:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <7786EBBD-674C-4F90-B111-8E9AB607D899@gmail.com> References: <8F69CDC630FC4A77AFB449C7DED2ADAB@HomePC> <7786EBBD-674C-4F90-B111-8E9AB607D899@gmail.com> Message-ID: I'd be up for that. Although, I thought I spent my entire party allotment back in my college days 30 some years ago. -----Original Message----- From: Robinson Charley Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 8:39 PM Cc: Digest MG Subject: Re: [Mgs] clown Larry, where do you live? I might just have a local tavern I'd take you to for some birthday drinks - I'm always up for a party! I received a couple of those email but just deleted them if I wasn't interested and haven't received anything since. Charley Robinson On Oct 30, 2010, at 7:57 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > AE, what you haven't seen is Mr. Clown's continued persistence in further > emails to me insisting he has the right to spam me. I guess my expressed > preference NOT to receive his crap makes no difference to him. I finally > had to ignore him and his crap. What a fine businessman. > > I understand that a few people here don't mind spam. Fine. That doesn't > mean we all don't mind it. And, certainly, we have a right to not receive > it. I am a businessman, too. I understand the need to attract customers. > I don't understand the thinking that they have the right to intrude on our > lives and force their crap on us -- ESPECIALLY after we have told him to > stop. > > Note to future spammers: maybe you should ask permission from the list > that > you are harvesting email addresses from to advertise your services. > Rather > than intruding on our lives, you could just post to the list what you have > to offer ONCE and ask US to contact YOU if we are interested. I could > live > with that. I might even do business with you. I, personally, will never > do > business with you if you spam me. I don't care what you have to offer. > That is an automatic. Period. I doubt that I am alone in that. > > Larry Daniels > > PS AE, my birthday is November 24th. Cards are welcome. Cards with cash > in them are even more welcome. Delivering them in person so that we can > go > to some saloon and spend that cash is best yet. > > LD _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From tink5775 at gmail.com Sun Oct 31 07:17:38 2010 From: tink5775 at gmail.com (Jim Tinkham) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 10:17:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] clown In-Reply-To: <8F69CDC630FC4A77AFB449C7DED2ADAB@HomePC> References: <8F69CDC630FC4A77AFB449C7DED2ADAB@HomePC> Message-ID: I finally got off his list the last big go round with the list. Haven't received a thing from him since. It only took a promise of legal action if he did not desist. Jim On Oct 30, 2010, at 7:57 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > AE, what you haven't seen is Mr. Clown's continued persistence in further > emails to me insisting he has the right to spam me. I guess my expressed > preference NOT to receive his crap makes no difference to him. I finally > had to ignore him and his crap. What a fine businessman. > > I understand that a few people here don't mind spam. Fine. That doesn't > mean we all don't mind it. And, certainly, we have a right to not receive > it. I am a businessman, too. I understand the need to attract customers. > I don't understand the thinking that they have the right to intrude on our > lives and force their crap on us -- ESPECIALLY after we have told him to > stop. > > Note to future spammers: maybe you should ask permission from the list that > you are harvesting email addresses from to advertise your services. Rather > than intruding on our lives, you could just post to the list what you have > to offer ONCE and ask US to contact YOU if we are interested. I could live > with that. I might even do business with you. I, personally, will never do > business with you if you spam me. I don't care what you have to offer. > That is an automatic. Period. I doubt that I am alone in that. > > Larry Daniels > > PS AE, my birthday is November 24th. Cards are welcome. Cards with cash > in them are even more welcome. Delivering them in person so that we can go > to some saloon and spend that cash is best yet. > > LD > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Aeseeyou at aol.com > Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 5:55 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] clown > > In a message dated 10/30/2010 9:03:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: > > I never asked to receive your commercial messages. I did ask NOT to > receive it. You ignored that. > You are a spammer. > Larry > > P.S. NOW will you unsubscribe me? > -------------------------------------------- > Hooey! > Wow, Larry.....Remind me never to get your ire up. You are one very Bad > Hombre! Hey, does that pertain to Birthday cards as well? But, in all > seriousness, I finally had to literally type in "Kentcarcollection.com" > into my > Spam filter, because I too, was getting inundated by Mr. Clowns daily > barrage > of used car ads! Yes I was rather perturbed at their insolence and the > continuous ignoring of my persistent pleas that they "unsubscribe me" > something I too was very perturbed about that definition because it seemed > to imply > that I had one time knowingly "subscribed" to the "Kentcarcollection.com" > And I hadn't done anything of the sort but was just another of the many on > this list and elsewhere who had (and this was a perfect example) been > Spammed by this pretentious used car salesman. Did he actually think we'd > never > seen an MG or any one of his so-called "Classic Cars" before?? > So Thank you Larry and I'm sure that others wish they had stated their > case as well as you did yours... > --==Safety-Fast!==-- > Alberto Escalante > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tink5775 at gmail.com From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sun Oct 31 12:26:15 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 13:26:15 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] car jack question Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07617601@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I finally got around to getting the roof of my hose repaired from hail/tornado damages from a few months back. What does this have to do with MGs? When it comes to nails, my cars are like magnets and sure enough, my BGT got a flat tire after I drove it home Friday evening, noticing it yesterday morning when I was taking it for another drive. Sure enough, there is a roofing nail embedded in the tire. The reason for my email is because changing the tire was somewhat of a pain due to the low quality tools I was using, particularly the old scissors jack needed for the low clearance. So my question is on what might be a good jack to purchase? Something readily available. Horrible Freight advertised a hydraulic scissors jack a few years ago but when I went to buy one, they said it was discontinued and no longer available. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From pchast at francomm.com Sun Oct 31 12:37:37 2010 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 15:37:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] car jack question In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07617601@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07617601@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: David, I use that scissor, or the original jack, to lift the car enough to get a floor jack under it in the garage. Pete Athens, NY On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 15:26:15 -0400, Councill, David wrote: > > I finally got around to getting the roof of my hose repaired from > hail/tornado damages from a few months back. What does this have to do > with MGs? When it comes to nails, my cars are like magnets and sure > enough, my BGT got a flat tire after I drove it home Friday evening, > noticing it yesterday morning when I was taking it for another drive. > Sure enough, there is a roofing nail embedded in the tire. > > > > The reason for my email is because changing the tire was somewhat of a > pain due to the low quality tools I was using, particularly the old > scissors jack needed for the low clearance. So my question is on what > might be a good jack to purchase? Something readily available. Horrible > Freight advertised a hydraulic scissors jack a few years ago but when I > went to buy one, they said it was discontinued and no longer available. > > > > David Councill > > 64 B > > 67 BGT > > 72 B > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 31 12:56:08 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:56:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] car jack question In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07617601@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07617601@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <4CCDC9D8.4050303@justbrits.com> David: << I was using, particularly the old scissors jack needed for the low clearance. >> I( *still* have [in the boot of Cin's Black Tulip '73 'B, a Honda Prelude scissors jack [also in my Big Healey boot] I got from junk yard for $5.00 each. Had both since '84 or '85. Works a treat. Have jacked a bunch of other folks' LBCs perfectly. My .05 !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] '72 Black Tulip MGB [Murial wearing STD IL plates CinsB 73 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com {with great MGA & MGB parts & memorabilia FOR SALE there!!] From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sun Oct 31 15:16:01 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 17:16:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] car jack question In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07617601@EXVS01.msubilling s.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07617601@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <462083.4303.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> For a small car like an LBC a diamond jack is the cat's meow for light weight carry in the boot convenience, and cheap too. Some people call it a scissors jack, but no scissors links, simpler and lighter. It also closes very low to get under a car with a flat tire. 8-1/2 pounds for the steel version, 3-1/2 pounds for the aluminum version. When they cost $20 new they gotta be cheaper at a bone yard. Lots of retired cars have them, and many have never been used. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/travel/tp102.htm http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-ton-scissor-jack-66907.html http://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jacks-1.5-Ton-Scissor-Jack/14560046 If you want a good service jack for the garage, get a hydraulic floor jack with HIGH LIFT. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-capacity-low-profile-floor-jack-94629.html At 01:26 PM 10/31/2010 -0600, Councill, David wrote: >.... >.... what might be a good jack to purchase? Something readily available. .... >....