From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat May  1 03:11:05 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 11:11:05 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel
References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com>
	<2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul>
Message-ID: <581932A6598040579EB3B0DBEE766B4D@uw471de61b465c>

Especially non-standard wheels should be tightened with the advised correct 
torque.
Overtightening is as bad as undertightening.
Overtightening may overstress the metal, which can cause (unvisible) cracks 
where the nuts aparently lose their
"grip".

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema at panix.com>; "MG Mailing List" 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] losing a wheel


> Presumably well into the journey than.  I've had a wheel (front) come 
> loose after only half a dozen miles when I forgot to fully tighten the 
> nuts the day before, but fortunately I heard an odd noise then immediately 
> realised what it was and all four nuts were still there (as well as the 
> one behind the wheel).  To get so far before it happened looks like they 
> were under insufficient torque, which is 60-65 lb ft, but I've no idea 
> what that feels like.  There was a spate of the opposite happening to UK 
> police cars at one time - studs shearing off.  This was because any one 
> patrol vehicle could be driven by two or three teams a day, and each one 
> checked the wheel nuts (and other stuff) before taking the car out.  The 
> way this was done was by tightening them up a little bit more each time 
> ...
>
> Do steel wheels have hardened seats?  Never heard of it.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> However, the portion of the trip between Cottonwood and Culdesac was 
>> rather
>> less enjoyable.  I lost a wheel. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun May  2 03:15:50 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 10:15:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder
References: <4BDBB6E4.2070304@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D77B7099B4CE4A60B5AF0FF7F2188D59@paul>

Very true, but that is nothing to do with clutch judder!

----- Original Message ----- 
> If your rear springs are winding up like an old watch then traction bars 
>  bloody well will too help. That's one half of why they exist.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun May  2 03:47:24 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 10:47:24 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel
References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com><2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul>
	<45E8A687-9502-4686-9583-89B153AC64C7@panix.com>
	<8CCB697AF3F418E-1CB0-CB77@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4F6457D394E34E5BBA2C355FA1D831FB@paul>

Grease *is* important (but only a smear) but it doesn't stop splines wearing.
There has to be clearance between the two sets of splines or you would have to
press the wheel on and off.  This means that particularly on the back wheels
every time you accelerate and brake the wheel is slipping back and fore and
the faces of the two sets are being banged together.  When new this is a tiny
and inaudible amount, but over time the splines become thinned, the flat top
becoming a point, which means the wheel moves move, and the impact starts to
become audible.  As time goes by the splines start to lean, particularly on
the fronts, and eventually they will shear off.  Grease will cushion the
impact somewhat, but not eliminate it.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Grease is SO important.

From daybell7 at aol.com  Mon May  3 09:21:05 2010
From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 11:21:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Judder
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8199.1272641944.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.8199.1272641944.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CCB8EB60C72F99-58E0-3D65@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com>

Message: 1
ate: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 17:10:12 -0400
rom: "Adrian Jones" <adrianjones747 at earthlink.net>
ubject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch judder
o: <mgs at autox.team.net>
essage-ID: <004701cae7e0$5b9914d0$12cb3e70$@net>
ontent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Before you pull the engine, try the following, as a last resort:

Go to an empty parking lot and do a series of starts in 4th gear until you
an smell the clutch.  This burns off any oil.

Worked for me.

Cheers,
Adrian


-----------------------------
Message: 3
ate: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:54:09 -0500
rom: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke at comcast.net>
ubject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch Judder
o: mgs list <mgs at autox.team.net>
essage-ID: <4BDA3841.4000605 at comcast.net>
ontent-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT.
Have you seen a doctor? Sorry - couldn't resist.
Mine is a '67 tourer. Things I have noticed about Rear End Hop -
1. It was always present with my car, but at times worse. When I let the
ngine oil get low it would get worse.
2. I tried a new clutch thinking it was oil on the clutch. Nope.
3. Traction bars will help but they cost over $300. I've thought about
etting a pair for a Ford Ranger at $85 and shortening them, but never
ot around to it. Thoughts anyone?
4. The original rear end wore out and was replaced by a Salisbury from
y '69 car. End of rear end hop. This is not your problem since you
lready have one. (Or should. Might be worth a check. It *is* after all,
 used car.
5. Higher revs at take off helps temporarily, but wears the clutch.
6. Keep your engine oil topped up.

-
il desperandum
Glenn Schnittke
-----------------------
.schnittke at comcast.net
ome - 615-837-5883
ell - 615-319-5534

-----------------------------

n 4/29/10 6:54 PM, Glenn Schnittke at g.schnittke at comcast.net wrote:
>> I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT.

 Have you seen a doctor? Sorry - couldn't resist.

 Mine is a '67 tourer. Things I have noticed about Rear End Hop -

 1. It was always present with my car, but at times worse. When I let the
 engine oil get low it would get worse.

 2. I tried a new clutch thinking it was oil on the clutch. Nope.

 3. Traction bars will help but they cost over $300. I've thought about
 getting a pair for a Ford Ranger at $85 and shortening them, but never
 got around to it. Thoughts anyone?

 4. The original rear end wore out and was replaced by a Salisbury from
 my '69 car. End of rear end hop. This is not your problem since you
 already have one. (Or should. Might be worth a check. It *is* after all,
 a used car.

 5. Higher revs at take off helps temporarily, but wears the clutch.

 6. Keep your engine oil topped up.

-----------------------------
>_______________________________________________

From atweditor at aol.com  Mon May  3 10:19:00 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 12:19:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel
In-Reply-To: <4F6457D394E34E5BBA2C355FA1D831FB@paul>
References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com><2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul><45E8A687-9502-4686-9583-89B153AC64C7@panix.com><8CCB697AF3F418E-1CB0-CB77@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com>
	<4F6457D394E34E5BBA2C355FA1D831FB@paul>
Message-ID: <8CCB8F379580427-904-505B@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com>

Paul,

I'm sure you're correct that grease will not provide an infinite life, but it
works a lot better than the cloud of rust dust that accompanied each removal
of the wheel in my early, too-relaxed era of automotive maintenance.

Jay




-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, May 2, 2010 5:47 am
Subject: Re: [Mgs] losing a wheel


Grease *is* important (but only a smear) but it doesn't stop splines wearing.
There has to be clearance between the two sets of splines or you would have
to
press the wheel on and off.  This means that particularly on the back wheels
every time you accelerate and brake the wheel is slipping back and fore and
the faces of the two sets are being banged together.  When new this is a tiny
and inaudible amount, but over time the splines become thinned, the flat top
becoming a point, which means the wheel moves move, and the impact starts to
become audible.  As time goes by the splines start to lean, particularly on
the fronts, and eventually they will shear off.  Grease will cushion the
impact somewhat, but not eliminate it.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Grease is SO important.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From rsexson at excite.com  Mon May  3 14:33:47 2010
From: rsexson at excite.com (BOb Sexson)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 16:33:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Parts place catlogce remembernce
Message-ID: <20100503163347.7187@web006.roc2.bluetie.com>

Several years ago I ordered a lot of parts fof a project.  Four small brake
lines were missing, so i called to report the shortage.

The young man who answered the phone said that i was trying to rip them off.
Then gave me a ration of the smelley stuff and said

he would look into it.  A little later i recieved a duplicate order,it had the
missing lines in it. I called again and was connected to the

same person. recieved another portion of the smelley stuff and he said he
would send instructions for the return. I waited a while

 and recieved a new master cylinder and four brass line tees. That has been 5
or 6 years ago. I was cleaning the shop and found all

that stuff still setting there. I had forgotten all about it.

BOB S
74 MGB
74 Midget

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue May  4 07:33:34 2010
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 06:33:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder
In-Reply-To: <8CCB517311316A7-E94-B3CC@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCB517311316A7-E94-B3CC@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <l2l40b437201005040633kd10af654x80b7743fc4e262a9@mail.gmail.com>

Could this be caused by bad engine mounts?

Simon

On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 11:24 AM,  <daybell7 at aol.com> wrote:
> I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT.  The whole car shakes when I am
> starting out and releasing the clutch.  What is wrong and can I do anything
to
> make it less severe?

From thgun at comporium.net  Wed May  5 04:47:46 2010
From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 06:47:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] SU CARB
Message-ID: <20100505064746.EMH62351@ms1.comporium.net>

I just had my carbs rebuilt. After checking all aspects of my engine to get it to run better I am down to the rear carb. If I start the engine and place my hand mostly over the rear carb air inlet it will speed up and smooth out. As if 3 and 4 cylinder are getting a better gas mixture. My next thing is going to be checking the gas flow between the bowl and the jet inlet on the rear carb. Any comments?

Tom Gunderson
1957 MGA 1500 rst

From Frankk12 at verizon.net  Wed May  5 06:51:27 2010
From: Frankk12 at verizon.net (Frank Krajewski)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 08:51:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] + or - Ground?
Message-ID: <2019695676A544539CA4D21AD8D2C3C8@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

Like a dummy I forgot whether or not two of my cars are + or - ground. I
stored my 1964 B and 1958 A many months ago and took the batteries out without
noting the polarity. I know orignally there were both + ground but vaguely
recall both or either were changed by the PO. There is a way to tell by
looking at the coil leads but I forgot the answer.  I am reluctant to connect
the battery and have it backwards. Would the fuel pump run backwards if I have
the polarity reversed?
It sux to get old.
Frank "Swamp Yankee" Krajewski

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed May  5 07:10:28 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 14:10:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] SU CARB
References: <20100505064746.EMH62351@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <F840799A5CC54288B17DB5323DBFE546@paul>

What checks, balancing and adjustments did you do?  They won't come 
correctly set up for your engine from a rebuilder.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I just had my carbs rebuilt. After checking all aspects of my engine to get 
>it to run better I am down to the rear carb. If I start the engine and 
>place my hand mostly over the rear carb air inlet it will speed up and 
>smooth out. 

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Wed May  5 07:39:06 2010
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 09:39:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] informational answer wanted
Message-ID: <4BE174FA.1090103@camden.rutgers.edu>

What is/are the performance characteristics change when the oil level in 
the carbs (SU) is low?  Please take that question to mean one is low or 
both are low.
Bill S.
BMCSNJ
'76B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed May  5 07:53:21 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 14:53:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] + or - Ground?
References: <2019695676A544539CA4D21AD8D2C3C8@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <322A42D1C4C34177AB5FD0837B3109AD@paul>

Yeah, and the speedo ...  You might suk now you are old, but the fuel pump 
won't, and neither will the starter motor.

If you have an alternator or modern electronic kit in either car then it's 
almost certainly -ve ground.  If you have dynamos in both then apart from 
the electronic rev counter (late 64 Bs) they will work just fine either way. 
The coil isn't a perfect indication as they will run just fine connected 
either way, with either polarity, so one or both of them could simply be 
'wrong'.  I can't see any reason for converting either unless you have 
fitted an alternator or modern electronic kit.

UK batteries have different sized posts - +ve is larger than -ve.  Only 
about 1/20" different, but very noticeable if you get the wrong connector on 
a post, particularly the older 'helmet' type.  Check each connector one at a 
time.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Like a dummy I forgot whether or not two of my cars are + or - ground.
>Would the fuel pump run backwards if I have the polarity reversed?

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed May  5 08:12:00 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 09:12:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] informational answer wanted
In-Reply-To: <4BE174FA.1090103@camden.rutgers.edu>
References: <4BE174FA.1090103@camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <1B8B46FF-1892-4B08-A95C-4ED458C0D7C5@gmail.com>

Acceleration will be negatively affected because the piston will rise too
quickly.

On May 5, 2010, at 8:39 AM, Bill Saidel wrote:

> What is/are the performance characteristics change when the oil level in the
carbs (SU) is low?  Please take that question to mean one is low or both are
low.
> Bill S.
> BMCSNJ
> '76B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed May  5 08:19:02 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 15:19:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] informational answer wanted
References: <4BE174FA.1090103@camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <3B99BD68B30B431198F40EB5885178D5@paul>

Stumbling when you open the throttle to accelerate, from a weak mixture, a 
bit like fuel starvation.  Same for one or both, but probably more 
noticeable when both.

Simply unscrew the damper cap, lift up, and pres back down.  As long as you 
feel the resistance of the oil before the cap reaches the piston cover you 
have enough, how much before tells you how much of a 'reserve' you have.  If 
the cap goes right back easily you may not have enough.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> What is/are the performance characteristics change when the oil level in 
> the carbs (SU) is low?  Please take that question to mean one is low or 
> both are low.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed May  5 09:24:28 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 10:24:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] + or - Ground?
In-Reply-To: <2019695676A544539CA4D21AD8D2C3C8@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
References: <2019695676A544539CA4D21AD8D2C3C8@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <354426.77001.qm@smtp108.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Assuming you have not disturbed the battery connectors too much, this 
is an easy solution.  The Positive battery post is larger than the 
Negative post.  If you install it backward one connector will be very 
loose and the other will not fit on the post.  In that case just turn 
the battery around and the connectors should fit properly.

I wouldn't rely on the coil wires having been previously correct if 
you are not absolutely certain.  In proper form the coil "+ or "CB" 
terminal should be connected to battery "+", and the coil "-" or "SW" 
terminal should be connected to battery "-".  For positive earth the 
distributor and engine block are "+" and the ignition supply wire is 
"-".  For negative earth the distributor and engine block are "-" and 
the ignition supply wire is "+".

If you are still not sure about the original configuration, you can 
install it or change it to whatever you prefer.  Once the battery is 
installed you need to polarize the generator, very simple.  Connect a 
jumper wire to the hot battery wire and touch it momentarily to the 
field terminal "F" on the generator.  Then connect the coil primary 
wires to proper termainals as noted above.  For the original MGA and 
early MGB nothing else in the vehicle is polarity sensitive (except 
an accessory radio).

Some aftermarket or upgrade parts may be polarity sensitive.  Check 
polarity requirement for a radio, electriconic fuel pump or points 
type pump with a diode, electronic ignition module, or anything else 
electronic that may have been installed in the car.  If the car has 
an alternator it almost certainly needs to be negative ground (about 
99.99% certain).  A very early production alternator being positive 
ground is extremely rare, but could happen.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 08:51 AM 5/5/2010 -0400, Frank Krajewski wrote:
>.... I stored my 1964 B and 1958 A many months ago and took the 
>batteries out without noting the polarity. .... There is a way to 
>tell by looking at the coil leads but I forgot the answer.  I am 
>reluctant to connect the battery and have it backwards. Would the 
>fuel pump run backwards if I have the polarity reversed?
>....

From eugeneb at nni.com  Wed May  5 09:47:33 2010
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 11:47:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Driving/Fog  Light bracket on a Late B ?
In-Reply-To: <322A42D1C4C34177AB5FD0837B3109AD@paul>
Message-ID: <web-283502147@admin.nni.com>

All,

    I would like to add some additional lighting to my 80
B.   Is anyone aware of a non-drill bracket for a late B to
mount fog/driving light ?  

    Thanks and Safety Fast,

        Gene Balinski    80 B
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
http://www.nni.com/

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed May  5 10:35:27 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 17:35:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Driving/Fog  Light bracket on a Late B ?
References: <web-283502147@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <05AB35F0CC654787A6E85E63E348799A@paul>

I've got rectangular lights mounted under the bumper of my 75 V8.  They 
mount to a right-angle bracket that attaches using one or two of the valance 
bolts, so no drilling there.  Have a look at 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights11.htm

PaulH

----- Original Message ----- 
>    I would like to add some additional lighting to my 80
> B.   Is anyone aware of a non-drill bracket for a late B to
> mount fog/driving light ?

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed May  5 17:42:37 2010
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:42:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mounting LIghts
Message-ID: <AANLkTinMTJSHpdEiOMLf8n950bsfzjFwBIVAOIXsYNT1@mail.gmail.com>

VB has a nice badge bar that has tabs for mounting lights.

Jack

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat May  8 13:05:37 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 14:05:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Driving/Fog  Light bracket on a Late B ?
In-Reply-To: <web-283502147@admin.nni.com>
References: <web-283502147@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <4BE5B601.9000406@justbrits.com>


From shop at justbrits.com  Sat May  8 18:01:54 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 19:01:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Driving/Fog  Light bracket on a Late B ?
Message-ID: <4BE5FB72.1070300@justbrits.com>

Sorry to bomb the List .

Gene, did you get my PM ????

Ed

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Sat May  8 18:24:18 2010
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (J. F. Juhas)
Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 20:24:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electronic Tach
Message-ID: <4BE600B2.1060605@snet.net>

I need to install an electronic tach in my MGA race car.  The cam that's 
going in has no tach drive and I don't have the luxury of waiting for a 
cam with a drive.  Recommendations on an aftermarket tach?  What 
diameter housing? It will go in the dash.  I don't have the car with me 
and I need to get an order in.  I'm thinking Auto Meter or something 
similar, preferably to 8K. Thanks.

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat May  8 21:14:08 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 20:14:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Electronic Tach
In-Reply-To: <4BE600B2.1060605@snet.net>
Message-ID: <381079.49949.qm@web112105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sat, 5/8/10, J. F. Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net> wrote:

> I need to
install an electronic tach
> in my MGA race car.  The cam that's going in has
no
> tach drive and I don't have the luxury of waiting for a cam
> with a
drive.  Recommendations on an aftermarket
> tach?  What diameter housing? It
will go in the
> dash.

Why not use an MGB electronic tach?  The early ones
look
just like an MGA tach except for the trim piece over the
shaft, and that
they say "Smiths" instead of "Jaeger".

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun May  9 03:26:36 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 10:26:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Electronic Tach
References: <381079.49949.qm@web112105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <14D4D58AEAE0463288FEDCC88731A90F@paul>

Indeed.  There are two types though, a current pulse triggered that would 
need you to reroute the coil feed wire from the ignition switch via the tach 
pickup (no other circuits should be fed from this wire), and the later one 
that simply needs a tapping off the coil SW terminal run to it.  The former 
have an RVI number on the dial, and the latter used from 1973 an RVC number. 
Originally 4" which I'm guessing is the same size as your speedo, American 
instruments changed to 80mm in 1967, but back to 4" in 1977, albeit with 
different bezels for 1980, I believe.  UK cars kept the 4" dials until 
rubber bumpers in 1974, then they changed to 80mm and stayed that way. 
There may well have been other British cars that used 4" RVC tachs when the 
MGB had changed to 80mm.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Why not use an MGB electronic tach?  The early ones
> look
> just like an MGA tach except for the trim piece over the
> shaft, and that
> they say "Smiths" instead of "Jaeger".

>> I need to install an electronic tach
>> in my MGA race car.  The cam that's going in has no
>> tach drive and I don't have the luxury of waiting for a cam
>> with a drive.  Recommendations on an aftermarket
>> tach?  What diameter housing? It will go in the
>> dash.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun May  9 03:39:15 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 10:39:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque
Message-ID: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>

Had two fronts tyres replaced this week, and I noticed that the fitter used an
air gun to do the nuts back up and only used a torque wrench to check that
they weren't *under* torqued.  Correct torque is 60 ft lb, I used my torque
wrench to loosen a couple on the rears and they needed about 70 ft lb.  One of
the fronts got up to 100 ft lb before it started to move, very slowly, needing
torque to keep it moving whereas they usually loosen quite quickly, another
got up to 120 ft lb and then the torque wrench (bendy bar type) broke!  I had
to use a breaker bar on the rest, and they were very variable in how much
force was required.  Bastards, that's another tyre chain (National Tyre and
Autowreck) crossed off my list, to go with the place (Shit-Fit) that wrecked
the coating on a just-refurbished alloy.  This place also used a short lift to
raise the car, the wheels straddle it then they put rubber blocks under the
body to lift it, something else I didn't like.

PaulH.

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Sun May  9 05:35:00 2010
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (james.f.juhas at snet.net)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 7:35:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electronic Tach
Message-ID: <922253.89146.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I would like to retain some semblance of originality and use an MGB tach, but I don't have enough time to find one that's reliable and available.  Next race event is in less than two weeks and I'm repairing engine damage from this weekend.  So I think I need a modern solution.  Thanks for the guide to what numbers mean what.  Good for the future replacemnt.

Jim
MGA #311

-----Original Message-----

From:  "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
Subj:  Re: [Mgs] Electronic Tach
Date:  Sun May 9, 2010 6:32 am
Size:  1K
To:  "David Breneman" <david_breneman at yahoo.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>

Indeed.  There are two types though, a current pulse triggered that would 
need you to reroute the coil feed wire from the ignition switch via the tach 
pickup (no other circuits should be fed from this wire), and the later one 
that simply needs a tapping off the coil SW terminal run to it.  The former 
have an RVI number on the dial, and the latter used from 1973 an RVC number. 
Originally 4" which I'm guessing is the same size as your speedo, American 
instruments changed to 80mm in 1967, but back to 4" in 1977, albeit with 
different bezels for 1980, I believe.  UK cars kept the 4" dials until 
rubber bumpers in 1974, then they changed to 80mm and stayed that way. 
There may well have been other British cars that used 4" RVC tachs when the 
MGB had changed to 80mm.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Why not use an MGB electronic tach?  The early ones
> look
> just like an MGA tach except for the trim piece over the
> shaft, and that
> they say "Smiths" instead of "Jaeger".

>> I need to install an electronic tach
>> in my MGA race car.  The cam that's going in has no
>> tach drive and I don't have the luxury of waiting for a cam
>> with a drive.  Recommendations on an aftermarket
>> tach?  What diameter housing? It will go in the
>> dash.
_____________________________________

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun May  9 06:01:07 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 14:01:07 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque
References: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>
Message-ID: <B1F23F710BA74803BBE52D80B592B6AC@uw471de61b465c>

Beware of the upcoming cracks!

Hans

71 BGT w/w with final torque set by itself I believe


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "V8 list" <mgb-v8 at autox.team.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>; 
<MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 11:39 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque


> Had two fronts tyres replaced this week, and I noticed that the fitter 
> used an
> air gun to do the nuts back up and only used a torque wrench to check that
> they weren't *under* torqued.  Correct torque is 60 ft lb, I used my 
> torque
> wrench to loosen a couple on the rears and they needed about 70 ft lb. 
> One of
> the fronts got up to 100 ft lb before it started to move, very slowly, 
> needing
> torque to keep it moving whereas they usually loosen quite quickly, 
> another
> got up to 120 ft lb and then the torque wrench (bendy bar type) broke!  I 
> had
> to use a breaker bar on the rest, and they were very variable in how much
> force was required.  Bastards, that's another tyre chain (National Tyre 
> and
> Autowreck) crossed off my list, to go with the place (Shit-Fit) that 
> wrecked
> the coating on a just-refurbished alloy.  This place also used a short 
> lift to
> raise the car, the wheels straddle it then they put rubber blocks under 
> the
> body to lift it, something else I didn't like.
>
> PaulH.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun May  9 08:56:06 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 15:56:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque
References: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>
	<B1F23F710BA74803BBE52D80B592B6AC@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <6303C6AAEB0844148709AF1B3978E610@paul>

And the only way I'll know that is likely when a wheel goes bounding down 
the road ...

----- Original Message ----- 

> Beware of the upcoming cracks!

>> Had two fronts tyres replaced this week, and I noticed that the fitter 
>> used an
>> air gun to do the nuts back up... 

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun May  9 12:03:42 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 11:03:42 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque
In-Reply-To: <6303C6AAEB0844148709AF1B3978E610@paul>
References: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>
	<B1F23F710BA74803BBE52D80B592B6AC@uw471de61b465c>
	<6303C6AAEB0844148709AF1B3978E610@paul>
Message-ID: <87E3F8F5-8077-48C6-BF5E-4479C2621041@panix.com>

On May 9, 2010, at 7:56 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> And the only way I'll know that is likely when a wheel goes bounding down
the road ...

And what great fun it is when that happens!

--
Aaron

From deano at cox.net  Sun May  9 12:58:41 2010
From: deano at cox.net (Dean)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:58:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
Message-ID: <125ACF1F44E04201903505160C68DBBF@deanoPC>

I've always purchased mg parts from VB and Moss, but am considering trying
Brit-tek.  Can anyone provide any comments on experience in dealing with them?
Thanks.  Dean

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sun May  9 14:38:26 2010
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
In-Reply-To: <125ACF1F44E04201903505160C68DBBF@deanoPC>
Message-ID: <569420.83917.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Brit-Tek is Bob Ford. He is a very good people. He is one of those guys who
knows MGs and will give you all the time you need to help you solve your
problem.
Carl

--- On Sun, 5/9/10, Dean <deano at cox.net> wrote:

From: Dean <deano at cox.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, May 9, 2010, 2:58 PM

I've always purchased mg parts from VB and Moss, but am considering trying
Brit-tek.  Can anyone provide any comments on experience in dealing with
them?
Thanks.  Dean
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/leylandauto at yahoo.com

From steve at shoyer.com  Sun May  9 14:46:24 2010
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 16:46:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
In-Reply-To: <125ACF1F44E04201903505160C68DBBF@deanoPC>
References: <125ACF1F44E04201903505160C68DBBF@deanoPC>
Message-ID: <75C6562487A349A78FF83B55B1F7C5A5@SteveHPlaptop>

I've bought parts from them and have been satisfied - they're good with
advice as well.

--Steve (1980 MGB) 

-----Original Message-----
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?

I've always purchased mg parts from VB and Moss, but am considering trying
Brit-tek.  Can anyone provide any comments on experience in dealing with
them?

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sun May  9 16:05:28 2010
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 17:05:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
In-Reply-To: <125ACF1F44E04201903505160C68DBBF@deanoPC>
References: <125ACF1F44E04201903505160C68DBBF@deanoPC>
Message-ID: <004501caefc3$bc251b10$346f5130$@net>

Excellent service and very knowledgeable.  Bought a whole engine rebuild kit
from them.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dean
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 1:59 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?

I've always purchased mg parts from VB and Moss, but am considering trying
Brit-tek.  Can anyone provide any comments on experience in dealing with
them?
Thanks.  Dean

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Mon May 10 05:56:57 2010
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 07:56:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
In-Reply-To: <004501caefc3$bc251b10$346f5130$@net>
References: <125ACF1F44E04201903505160C68DBBF@deanoPC>,
	<004501caefc3$bc251b10$346f5130$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W3A84B1FE300777445A920BFF90@phx.gbl>

I agree with...." Excellent service and very knowledgeable"

 I buy from them often and have never had a bad experience.



Tuck




> From: mgb72 at airmail.net
> To: deano at cox.net; mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 17:05:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
>
> Excellent service and very knowledgeable. Bought a whole engine rebuild kit
> from them.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Dean
> Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 1:59 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
>
> I've always purchased mg parts from VB and Moss, but am considering trying
> Brit-tek. Can anyone provide any comments on experience in dealing with
> them?
> Thanks. Dean
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Mon May 10 07:57:42 2010
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 09:57:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] difficulty getting  TD into reverse
Message-ID: <2C251F49-2BC4-472D-8DBD-333991A40613@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
A friend is experiencing difficulty shifting his 52 TD into reverse.  
It has been getting harder over time, he says. Any suggestions I can  
pass along. I know on my TD whenever it doesn't go in, I simply come  
off the clutch, depress it again and it then goes in. Clutch adjustment?

TIA,
Dave Houser

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 10 09:40:52 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 16:40:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] difficulty getting  TD into reverse
References: <2C251F49-2BC4-472D-8DBD-333991A40613@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <0F3743231F0741CA90704FAB445DABBB@paul>

Is it baulking or grinding?  Is first the same or OK?  If only reverse and 
it isn't grinding then it sounds more like gear selector problems that 
clutch.  If grinding in both (are the other gears synchro?) then it sounds 
like the clutch is dragging.  Is a TD clutch adjustable?

BL cars have always baulked in first and reverse as often as not, and I have 
never had a car that didn't baulk occasionally.  If either of the Bs baulk 
in first I simply put it part way into second and then it goes into first 
... almost always that is.  If it baulks in reverse then sometimes going up 
into 1st is all it needs, sometimes it needs to got 1st 2nd then reverse. 
Very very rarely do I have to lift off the clutch in neutral and try again.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> A friend is experiencing difficulty shifting his 52 TD into reverse.

From thgun at comporium.net  Mon May 10 11:09:05 2010
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 13:09:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump
Message-ID: <0414EC63700E45E2825BFB1CD867C1BF@TOMPC>

What pump would be a good choice for my 1957, 1500 MGA?

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Mon May 10 11:25:52 2010
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 12:25:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque
In-Reply-To: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>
References: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>
Message-ID: <4BE841A0.9090708@gmail.com>

Paul Hunt wrote:
> Had two fronts tyres replaced this week, and I noticed that the fitter used an
> air gun to do the nuts back up and only used a torque wrench to check that
> they weren't *under* torqued.  Correct torque is 60 ft lb, I used my torque
> wrench to loosen a couple on the rears and they needed about 70 ft lb.  One of
> the fronts got up to 100 ft lb before it started to move, very slowly, needing
> torque to keep it moving whereas they usually loosen quite quickly, another
> got up to 120 ft lb and then the torque wrench (bendy bar type) broke!  I had
> to use a breaker bar on the rest, and they were very variable in how much
> force was required.  Bastards, that's another tyre chain (National Tyre and
> Autowreck) crossed off my list, to go with the place (Shit-Fit) that wrecked
> the coating on a just-refurbished alloy.  This place also used a short lift to
> raise the car, the wheels straddle it then they put rubber blocks under the
> body to lift it, something else I didn't like.
>
> PaulH.
I report this kind of abuse to the Better Business Bureau, since it endangers lives. I also call the manager or owner of the business and tell them about it. This is a safety issue. I have even considered proposing a State law against doing wheel nuts up with an air tool.

-Rocky Frisco
--

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 10 12:41:04 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 13:41:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <0414EC63700E45E2825BFB1CD867C1BF@TOMPC>
References: <0414EC63700E45E2825BFB1CD867C1BF@TOMPC>
Message-ID: <4BE85340.5040108@justbrits.com>


From twobees at sprynet.com  Mon May 10 13:04:47 2010
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 15:04:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Anyone familiar with Brit-tek?
Message-ID: <005601caf073$a8dcd330$6401a8c0@normoffice>

Dean:

I have been buying parts from Bob Ford at Brit-Tek since the early 1990s.  I
have never dealt with ANYONE who was more helpful and honest than Bob.  He
helped me with my 1980 MGB, then the '66 that I built (with his help in
parts and advice) into a daily driver/occasional racer.  I tried many of the
others.  And, now even though I no longer have a B, only a 948-engined
Turner, I still call Bob when I need parts I think he can get.

He has been my best source of parts for my British cars.  I heartily
recommend him.

Full disclosure:  Bob began as just another MGB parts supplier for me.  He
soon became a great MGB advisor to me.  He then became a great friend.  He
then became a client who runs a small ad with me in Vintage Motorsport
magazine.

Norm Sippel

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon May 10 13:31:39 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 14:31:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <0414EC63700E45E2825BFB1CD867C1BF@TOMPC>
References: <0414EC63700E45E2825BFB1CD867C1BF@TOMPC>
Message-ID: <675678.80231.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you don't like the original one, this is good:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp201.htm


At 01:09 PM 5/10/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>What pump would be a good choice for my 1957, 1500 MGA?

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Mon May 10 13:33:12 2010
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 15:33:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump
References: <0414EC63700E45E2825BFB1CD867C1BF@TOMPC>
Message-ID: <A4F94BCA1F6B4BF9BBF1A76EA28E3E7D@frankdcczr6l6k>

Tom: Interesting and relevant question as I just had to replace the fuel 
pump on my 1958 MGA that has been sitting for 5 years. I happen to have a 
new original AC ( but old) pump that was identical to what was on the car 
altho Barney tells me SU was the original MGA pump.  It works fine now. The 
old pump clicked away and I thought it was a clogged line but as it turned 
out it was clicking but not pumping.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun at comporium.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 1:09 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump


> What pump would be a good choice for my 1957, 1500 MGA?
> _______________________________________________

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon May 10 15:35:38 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 17:35:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1273514402.7500.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1273514402.7500.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E0BB379AF4D2469C97CD1640F3FFF87B@EricJRussellPC>

Add my name to the list of more-than-satisfied customers. I bought parts to 
rebuild an MGB engine. Bob Ford replied to all my email questions with quick 
and knowledgeable answers.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 

> I've always purchased mg parts from VB and Moss, but am considering trying
> Brit-tek.  Can anyone provide any comments on experience in dealing with 
> them?
> Thanks.  Dean

From craigw at sonic.net  Mon May 10 18:57:39 2010
From: craigw at sonic.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 17:57:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone familar with Brit-tek?
In-Reply-To: <E0BB379AF4D2469C97CD1640F3FFF87B@EricJRussellPC>
References: <mailman.13.1273514402.7500.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<E0BB379AF4D2469C97CD1640F3FFF87B@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <4BE8AB83.30509@sonic.net>

I've been using Brit-tek for over 20 years. Great service, and great 
advice to boot. They've been my first choice for MGB parts for many years.

Craig Wiper

Eric J Russell wrote:
> Add my name to the list of more-than-satisfied customers. I bought 
> parts to rebuild an MGB engine. Bob Ford replied to all my email 
> questions with quick and knowledgeable answers.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I've always purchased mg parts from VB and Moss, but am considering 
>> trying
>> Brit-tek.  Can anyone provide any comments on experience in dealing 
>> with them?
>> Thanks.  Dean
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/craigw at sonic.net
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus 
> signature database 5103 (20100510) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>


__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5103 (20100510) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue May 11 02:04:35 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 09:04:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque
References: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>
	<4BE841A0.9090708@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8C5F4312A63E4E26B7AC95CFD22B543A@paul>

I'm waiting to see what response (if any) I get back from the company and if 
it isn't satisfactory i.e the typical fob-off of "Our fitters are highly 
trained and we take safety very seriously" then I'll be contacting the local 
Trading Standards office.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I report this kind of abuse to the Better Business Bureau, since it 
> endangers lives. I also call the manager or owner of the business and tell 
> them about it. 

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Tue May 11 03:04:47 2010
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 19:04:47 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] Wheel nut torque
In-Reply-To: <8C5F4312A63E4E26B7AC95CFD22B543A@paul>
References: <826B3B59297D4EE081021EA100DC69F8@paul>
	<4BE841A0.9090708@gmail.com> <8C5F4312A63E4E26B7AC95CFD22B543A@paul>
Message-ID: <643AC7CA-9FC3-4AC1-853E-163CF9ED8C11@ghs.com.au>

> "Our fitters are highly trained and we take safety very seriously"

Talk about an oxymoron.... Its hardly rocket science and they are not exactly
employing Mensa members are they?

Cheers - Murray

On 11/05/2010, at 6:04 PM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> I'm waiting to see what response (if any) I get back from the company and if
it isn't satisfactory i.e the typical fob-off of "Our fitters are highly
trained and we take safety very seriously" then I'll be contacting the local
Trading Standards office.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I report this kind of abuse to the Better Business Bureau, since it
endangers lives. I also call the manager or owner of the business and tell
them about it.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au

From deano at cox.net  Tue May 11 13:01:25 2010
From: deano at cox.net (Dean)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 14:01:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Brit-tek
Message-ID: <D62849A0E88C466389B68E4E4B9BE7B6@deanoPC>

I want to thank each individual who responded to my recent inquiry re:
Brit-Tek.  Just had a nice conversation with Bob Ford and placed a sizable
order.  Thanks again!  Dean

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Tue May 11 21:02:42 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 21:02:42 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] replacement battery saga
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06E97B91@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Getting closer to the moment I start the 64B restoration project (car
has been sitting in a garage since 1981), I went to the local Sears to
buy another Group 26 battery. All my MGs have now been converted from
the 6V 17 HF batteries due to availability and cost, all with Sears
Diehard batteries which have served me well in cold weather starting. So
I go into the store and tell the young lad I need to buy a Group 26
battery. He then asked me what it is for so I tell him it is for a MGB.
He gets confused and asks me what that is. He is sure they don't have a
battery for such a car. I explain that a group 26 battery should be a
common size so he looks and, yes, they have them in stock. Of course
they do, I bought the batteries for my two other MGs at this same store
in earlier years. They actually tried to get my 17HF batteries several
years ago but were unable to do so; other outlets wanted significantly
more for just one 6v battery than the cost of the group 26 battery.



So now I have a battery but I still have a few other things to do first,
most notably the SU carbs. I started working on those this evening,
thinking I could be trying to start the car by this weekend. Until I
came across a rather interesting problem (after previous strange
problems) as I am working on the carbs which I have on a bench.  When I
screwed the fuel mixture adjusting nut of the rear carb up to the base
so I could set the fuel adjustment to the default 12 flats, the jet did
not move up. The choke lever to the jet also looked a bit warped. So I
disassembled the whole jet assembly - it looks like the jet is seized
within the jet bearing assembly and the bent choke lever would indicate
this problem occurred some time ago with the previous owner. Fortunately
Moss lists all the parts at a fairly reasonable cost. So a minor delay
but I still face a few more unknowns with the electrical system
components (fuel pump, starter, and other parts) plus the motor (it
turns). I noticed the previous owner disconnected the mechanical tach
cable from the tach so that probably indicates something as well. So I
may still have a lot of work left.



David Councill

64 MGB

67 MGBGT

72 MGB

74 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 06:24:05 2010
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 05:24:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Miss / stumble
Message-ID: <403973.15656.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Friends,

I write today to ask you, the 'Friends of Carburetors Society', a
question or two.  And although the car in question uses four 40DCFN
Webers, the issue is universal to carburetted cars.  Here's the setup.

I just replaced the timing belts and the ignition in my car.  The 
valve timing was not affected and the ignition timing was not
adjusted.  The car got belts, new plugs and new plug wires.

At cruise and at about any engine speed when the throttle is opened 
slightly, the engine tends to miss a little bit, a little stumble if
you will.  The condition tends to be more noticeable in the mid-rev-
band.  My first thought is that the charge leans out because the 
accelerator pumps aren't engaging quickly enough.  And yes, I know
that SUs and Z-Ss don't have accelerator pumps but they address the
lean-out issue with other methods.  If instead of gently opening
the throttle a tiny bit, and if I open it aggressively, the car
instantly accelerates without the slightest hesitation.  This
condition also seems to indicate that the charge is leaning-out.

So I ask: Please share your insight as to what might cause the flat
spot / stumble / what_ever_we_should_call_it.  Thank you.

-rick

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed May 12 08:21:46 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 15:21:46 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Miss / stumble
References: <403973.15656.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <62010DBA178449D696656FA6DD7D5C6F@paul>

It stumbles at cruise i.e. a steady throttle?  Sounds like generally weak 
mixture then, that the accelerator pump is compensating for in a large 
throttle movement.  Did it do it before?  If not then look very closely at 
what you did.  If you can reproduce it by holding the throttle open at a 
standstill clip a timing light to each plug lead in turn and see if there is 
any sign of erratic flashing.  Could be a dicky plug, or a lead for that 
matter, I'd swap them back one at a time and see what happens.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> At cruise and at about any engine speed when the throttle is opened
> slightly, the engine tends to miss a little bit, a little stumble if
> you will. 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 09:51:22 2010
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 08:51:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] OT Carb induced stumble
Message-ID: <292878.60610.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks folks for all the good advice.

I have concatenated the prompt responses to minimize List clutter:

Keith on the E-Type List wrote:

> ...issue is in the progression phase mixture.  And this is
> controlled by the idle mixture screws.

Makes good sense, and the problem has been there for a long time.
Keith went on to say:

> ...have fresh gasoline...

Tank is 1/4 old gas (8 months old?) and 3/4 new (yesterday), both
93 octane.

Les on the E-Type List agrees with Keith, and states so:

> I agree with Keith, it does sound like progression...

Paul on the MG List wrote:

> Sounds like generally weak mixture...

Paul also asked about the ignition, which I did replace, but the
problem was there before the ignition work.

The mighty Wiggles on the E-Type list wrote:

> ...how old are the sparkling plug wires? I've seen them exhibit
> this behavior.

Me too, but the ignition wires are new, and the problem predates
them, as stated above.

And finally,

Mr. Smartly Pants Diddums on the TR3 List wrote,

> Thought of switching to fuel injection?

Answer: No  :-P


best regards everyone, and thanks,

-rick

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu May 13 11:26:53 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 19:26:53 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] 2010 Tulip Rally
Message-ID: <F2E7A7A065954D8C8C999F513FD4266E@uw471de61b465c>

Dear listers,

Enjoy several movies of this old time spring event since the early fifties 
with the finish in Noordwijk - the Netherlands.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT 

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri May 14 13:59:12 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 14:59:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Nice TF for sale in Wisconsin
Message-ID: <201005141259271.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

I was just contacted by a person here in Madison WI wanting to sell 
the family's MG TF. The pics look very good. I can forward pics and 
contact info to anyone interested.

I have no personal interest or involvement in this.

Need to act quickly, as they are in town for a short time.

Asking price around $17,000.  Second owner, low miles, they say.

I wish I could.....

Peter C

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri May 14 14:27:07 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 22:27:07 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] 2010 Tulip Rally
References: <F2E7A7A065954D8C8C999F513FD4266E@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <EF7635AC76604B86933E31232109E40B@uw471de61b465c>

Oops,

The links got lost!
photos: http://picasaweb.google.nl/108491368449329466755
movie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSzpb1-i4bI

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
To: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 7:26 PM
Subject: [Mgs] 2010 Tulip Rally


> Dear listers,
>
> Enjoy several movies of this old time spring event since the early fifties 
> with the finish in Noordwijk - the Netherlands.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> 71 BGT 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun May 16 16:46:10 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 15:46:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 2010 Tulip Rally
In-Reply-To: <EF7635AC76604B86933E31232109E40B@uw471de61b465c>
References: <F2E7A7A065954D8C8C999F513FD4266E@uw471de61b465c>
	<EF7635AC76604B86933E31232109E40B@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <857342.80387.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

That's what I meant when I said, 'Where', Hans! ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>; mgs at Autox.Team.Net
Sent: Fri, May 14, 2010 4:27:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 2010 Tulip Rally

Oops,

The links got lost!
photos: http://picasaweb.google.nl/108491368449329466755
movie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSzpb1-i4bI

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
To: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 7:26 PM
Subject: [Mgs] 2010 Tulip Rally


> Dear listers,
>
> Enjoy several movies of this old time spring event since the early fifties 
> with the finish in Noordwijk - the Netherlands.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> 71 BGT 
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Mon May 17 15:18:09 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 17:18:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Middget parts car in Richmond, VA area
Message-ID: <SNT124-W391AED202995096DE573F2B7E00@phx.gbl>

NFI, and too far away for me to get, but this is probably worth the price just
for the wire wheels:



http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1743376943.html

_________________________________________________________________
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From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 17 16:30:55 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 17:30:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Middget parts car in Richmond, VA area
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W391AED202995096DE573F2B7E00@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W391AED202995096DE573F2B7E00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4BF1C39F.4080208@justbrits.com>

<<

NFI, and too far away for me to get, 

 >>

That would be a STEAL for anybody that could part it
out, Mike !!

Frank could make it a runner in a week !!!  LOL !!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
..For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Tue May 18 11:57:53 2010
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 10:57:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Free listing for car clubs and vendor's - The Classic Car
 Datebase
Message-ID: <592083.92720.qm@web36808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Want to pass on some information on a car related site. Was able to post my
own web page off the site. I have also sent a copy of this referral to 
Mr
Berson. 

Kind regards
Pete Groh  (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA  

Saturday,
January 9, 2010 11:50 AM
From: "Robin L Berson" 
To: "Pete Groh"
<pete_groh at yahoo.com>
Hello Mr. Groh,
Thank you for your inquiry.
We have
added British Car Keys to our Directory of Services.  And, if
you have a list
of some of the British car clubs and vendors, I'd be
happy to get that
information.  It may take some time before we are able
to add foreign cars to
the website, but we are definitely working in
that direction.
Best Regards,
Robin Berson
The Classic Car Database
http://www.classiccardatabase.com/vendors.php
Listed my site, search under
name British car keys

We are in the process of expanding the database to
include more years
and foreign as well as American automobiles.B Please direct
your
comments or suggestions to info at classiccardatabase.com. Tell us what you
think! http://www.classiccardatabase.com/index.php

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Tue May 18 14:01:28 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 16:01:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG TF 135 in Bennington, VT, May 29
Message-ID: <SNT124-W6162087D1FD88D1307F8AFB7E10@phx.gbl>

On Saturday, May 29, at 9:30 am, there is an informal get-together at Hemmings
Motor News in Bennington, Vt, with British MG owner Roger Pratten, who is
touring the U.S. & Canada in his 2003 MG TF 135.

I'm planning to attend with my '54 TF, and I'd love to see a good turnout from
MG owners.  If anyone lives in the area or may happen to be in the area that
weekend, it's a chance to get a good look at modern MG and chat with a fellow
enthusiast from across the pond.

If anyone needs directions or other information, let me know.



http://www.mgexperience.net/calendar.php#528



-Mike Eldred

'54 MG TF

'73 Midget

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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed May 19 01:54:34 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 02:54:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg textbook
Message-ID: <367175.58199.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For anyone interested in the deepest workiings of Lucas electrics, I 
have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled 
"Overseas Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas 
Technical Service.  This rare book was never released to the general 
public, but was used to train dealer service personel via 
correspondence school.  See index web page here: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed May 19 04:41:23 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 11:41:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg textbook
References: <367175.58199.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <61B08EF61F0C44E08ECE4CF093C805B8@paul>

Fascinating.  Also confirms what I have long suspected, that when changing 
the polarity of a cars electics to negative earth one should really get a 
negative earth coil and not merely reverse the connections to the positive 
earth coil as is usually recommended.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> For anyone interested in the deepest workiings of Lucas electrics, I have 
> just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled "Overseas 
> Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas Technical Service. 
> This rare book was never released to the general public, but was used to 
> train dealer service personel via correspondence school.  See index web 
> page here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed May 19 06:04:38 2010
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 08:04:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course, 275pg textbook
In-Reply-To: <367175.58199.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <367175.58199.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0L2O00BY71LMROR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Very cool, Barney.  Do you know when this is from?  I haven't found a 
year printed anywhere so far.  Now if we could only still get those 
certificates upon completion, we'd be set!  Thanks for posting this.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 03:54 AM 5/19/2010, Barney Gaylord wrote:
>For anyone interested in the deepest workiings of Lucas electrics, I 
>have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled 
>"Overseas Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas 
>Technical Service.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed May 19 06:41:12 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 07:41:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course
In-Reply-To: <0L2O00BY71LMROR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <367175.58199.qm@smtp104.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<0L2O00BY71LMROR0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <368786.76638.qm@smtp112.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Wild guess here. It mentions fitting overdrive to a Austin Healey 100 
(Oct 1954), Bristol 405 (1955), Sunbeam Alpine MK-III (1963), so I 
suppose it was printed around 1963.


At 08:04 AM 5/19/2010 -0400, Steven Trovato wrote:
>Very cool, Barney.  Do you know when this is from?  I haven't found 
>a year printed anywhere so far. ....


>At 03:54 AM 5/19/2010, Barney Gaylord wrote:
>>For anyone interested in the deepest workiings of Lucas electrics, 
>>I have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled 
>>"Overseas Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas 
>>Technical Service. .... http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed May 19 15:43:40 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 17:43:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] LUCAS Technical Correspondence Course
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1274292003.846.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1274292003.846.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CFAF99B4D26D490D8154D811A55B9E08@EricJRussellPC>

But I didn't find anything about the Smoke Theory of Electrical Devices.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
> Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 02:54:34 -0500
> From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>

> For anyone interested in the deepest workiings of Lucas electrics, I 
> have just posted on line a vintage 275 page text book titled 
> "Overseas Technical Correspondence Course" published by Lucas 
> Technical Service.  This rare book was never released to the general 
> public, but was used to train dealer service personel via 
> correspondence school.  See index web page here: 
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc.htm
> 
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com

From deano at cox.net  Thu May 20 14:14:26 2010
From: deano at cox.net (Dean)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 15:14:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] bolt sizes for transmission mount
Message-ID: <8273E344C3634CE9B43E411DD2492180@deanoPC>

Can anyone tell me the correct size, thread type, length, etc., of the bolts
used to mount the transmission cross member on a 72 mgb?  Thanks.  Dean

From palte at gmx.net  Fri May 21 00:51:50 2010
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 08:51:50 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Q: Horn Orientation
Message-ID: <20100521065150.325170@gmx.net>

One of the members of the MGCC here in Holland has reconditioned 
the horns of my 1970 B, very nicely, I must add. 
A link to his ad follows below (NFI, usual disclaimers apply).
My car still has the metal Lucas horns; 
if your (RB) car has the later type plastic horns 
then, IMHO, it is cheaper to just replace them.   
  

http://www.mgcarclub.nl/index.php?option=com_marketplace&page=show_ad&catid=3&adid=631&Itemid=101


I discussed the mounting of the horns with Pel.
As I have always assumed, the horn output opening should be 
facing forward, i.e. in the driving direction.
Pel told me that it is better when the horn output openings are facing each other because then there is no possibility of dirt entering the horns.
But then, IMHO, you might have a severe loss of dBs since the horns are not delivering maximum sound output in the desired (forward) direction.   

The Parts List or the Workshop Manual don't give the answer.

Any thoughts?

Bert

-- 
GRATIS fC<r alle GMX-Mitglieder: Die maxdome Movie-FLAT!
Jetzt freischalten unter http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/maxdome01

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri May 21 05:05:57 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 04:05:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Q: Horn Orientation
In-Reply-To: <20100521065150.325170@gmx.net>
References: <20100521065150.325170@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimJvTZsRnqmMaD0_0E2iOY-0TDV1axQx1YK6TRq@mail.gmail.com>

You need to mount them so that dirt and water do not enter and get trapped
inside the horn.
Rick

On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 11:51 PM, Bert Palte <palte at gmx.net> wrote:

> One of the members of the MGCC here in Holland has reconditioned
> the horns of my 1970 B, very nicely, I must add.
> A link to his ad follows below (NFI, usual disclaimers apply).
> My car still has the metal Lucas horns;
> if your (RB) car has the later type plastic horns
> then, IMHO, it is cheaper to just replace them.
>
>
>
> http://www.mgcarclub.nl/index.php?option=com_marketplace&page=show_ad&catid=3&adid=631&Itemid=101
>
>
> I discussed the mounting of the horns with Pel.
> As I have always assumed, the horn output opening should be
> facing forward, i.e. in the driving direction.
> Pel told me that it is better when the horn output openings are facing each
> other because then there is no possibility of dirt entering the horns.
> But then, IMHO, you might have a severe loss of dBs since the horns are not
> delivering maximum sound output in the desired (forward) direction.
>
> The Parts List or the Workshop Manual don't give the answer.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Bert
>
> --
> GRATIS fC<r alle GMX-Mitglieder: Die maxdome Movie-FLAT!
> Jetzt freischalten unter http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/maxdome01
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Fri May 21 09:40:08 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 11:40:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] M-type
Message-ID: <SNT124-W56D18F4F38A5491F59FB2CB7E40@phx.gbl>

NFI, just one of those things you don't see on craigslist every day.



"for sale, a 1930 MG M-Type Boat-tail Speedster. This car is probably the only
example with its original motor in it. It has a 3 speed gearbox. It also has a
beautiful two-tone black/blue color scheme. It is fully functional and has had
a Show-Room-Quality Restoration."



http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/1750924751.html

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From shop at justbrits.com  Fri May 21 12:33:46 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 13:33:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Q: Horn Orientation
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimJvTZsRnqmMaD0_0E2iOY-0TDV1axQx1YK6TRq@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20100521065150.325170@gmx.net>
	<AANLkTimJvTZsRnqmMaD0_0E2iOY-0TDV1axQx1YK6TRq@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BF6D20A.1000404@justbrits.com>

<< You need to mount them so that dirt and water do not enter and get
trapped inside the horn. >>

Or simply do the the Big Rig truckers Rick, put one [2 ?]
pf those UGLY 'screens' on !!!!!

<VBEG> !!!

Anon

From mcolson40 at hotmail.com  Fri May 21 20:12:38 2010
From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com (Milton Olson)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 22:12:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MG Midget transmission parts needed.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1274464803.5316.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1274464803.5316.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W63859234DA83FAD8A30820B4E50@phx.gbl>

Hello from Michigan,
 I am in the process of rebuilding the transmission from my 1978 Midget. I
need a new reverse Idler gear [21 tooth], and the mating outer 1-2 hub gear
that runs with it.

Does anyone know of a source for good used gears?

Best regards,

Milt

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 21 23:03:27 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 23:03:27 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MG Midget transmission parts needed.
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W63859234DA83FAD8A30820B4E50@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.9.1274464803.5316.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<SNT124-W63859234DA83FAD8A30820B4E50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4BF7659F.505@bradakis.com>

I'll suggest Ted Schumacher's TS Imported Automotive in Ohio,

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com

There is a good chance he can come up with what you need.

mjb.

From daybell7 at aol.com  Sat May 22 13:46:03 2010
From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 15:46:03 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Got jets?
Message-ID: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>

MG'ers,

After installing chrome air cleaners, my MGB breaks up during acceleration.
Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, it runs fine.  Will Grose jets solve
this problem?  The chrome air cleaners seen to permit the car to breath better
at idle.

Thanks for the help.
Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat May 22 14:47:03 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 13:47:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Got jets?
In-Reply-To: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C81D90D7.298F3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I don't see how the needle valves would have anything to do with it. They
control fuel flow, not air flow.

Are you sure there isn't a mechanical interference problem with the chrome
cleaners?
 
I'm also a little puzzled about the idle comment. You'd think there wouldn't
be any trouble getting plenty of airflow at idle, no matter how restrictive
the air cleaner (and the MG ones are not very restrictive). The idea behind
open element filters is to get more flow at WOT.

I think there is probably something else going on.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 5/22/10 12:46 PM, daybell7 at aol.com at daybell7 at aol.com wrote:

> MG'ers,
> 
> After installing chrome air cleaners, my MGB breaks up during acceleration.
> Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, it runs fine.  Will Grose jets solve
> this problem?  The chrome air cleaners seen to permit the car to breath better
> at idle.
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Sat May 22 15:23:40 2010
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 16:23:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removing sound deading 73 MGB
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <95BF06A04F78417FAF3C01854A1C97BF@DELL>

Hi guys and gals,

On my 1973 MGB I have to remove the sound deading material underneath the 
driver seat so that I can weld a plate to patch an area where the metal has 
fatigued and split.

Any suggestions on how to do it?

Thanks,

Craig 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May 22 17:03:56 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 17:03:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Got jets?
In-Reply-To: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BF862DC.30907@bradakis.com>

Like Max said, the type of inlet valve will not affect the mixture,
unless it isn't working and fills the bowls too full or not full enough.

Does this 'break up' occur only when driving and the engine is under
load, or does it happen when the car is sitting in neutral and you
blip the throttle?

What intake setup does this car have in place?  If you lived in
Salt Lake, I'd suggest you drive the car over and I'd take a look.

mjb.

From palte at gmx.net  Sun May 23 12:26:54 2010
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert P)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 20:26:54 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Core Removal - Update
Message-ID: <20100523182603.78AF0187867@autox.team.net>

Hi fellow listers,

Last March, I posed a question here about removing the heater core - 
whether or nor
removal of the heater box would be required.
My car is a 1970 B built to European specifications.

General consensus was that it was very desirable to do so.
So, I followed your advice and removed the heater box from the car.
Given a systematic lack of spare time, this repair job has taken me 
about two months.

Here are some observations:

1. A long Phillips head screwdriver is essential to remove the screws 
that hold the heater unit.
     Length/dia. should be 200/6 mm, equivalent to 8 / 0,25 inch 
(A.o., Gedore makes them).
     This screwdriver is also required to get access to the four 
screws that hold the bezel behind the speaker area
     (this bezel, BTW, is not depicted in my Parts Book).

2. I ordered the 'upgraded' motor/fan combo, made by a Canadian company.
     The Chicagoland website mentions that a flange (supplied with 
the motor, also with my order) should be used
     to adapt the motor to the heater box and even then, some 
adjustment is required to make it fit.

     I decided that this would not be an improvement, rather a 
worsening in design, since in the original situation
     the motor/fan assembly has been supported by rubber grommets 
(providing some means of vibration insulation)
     instead of being mounted straight to the heater box (with no 
vibration insulation).
     Therefore, I chose to drill out the rivets and to reuse the old 
motor support bracket with the rubbers,
     using new aluminium rivets.

     However, even in the most faraway position of the fan on the motor shaft,
     this resulted in a gap between the front of the impeller and the 
inlet opening of the the air box of about 1/2 inch,
     giving a less than optimum efficiency and/or air flow.
     Sure, it works, but I can't compare performance because I don't 
have any measuring equipment for air speed and/or pressure.
     (Next time I'll definitely retain the original fan and motor!).

3. The condition of the internals of the heater box is always worse 
than you expect!

4. The hexagon shaft opening inside the heater (air flow) control 
knob was damaged. So, I tried to order a new knob (Off - Heater - Screen)
     (for a steel dash, LHD car) but these are NLA.
     A similar knob for the RHD car has the same text but not in the 
right sequence so it cannot be used except for in an emergency.

5. As for the reassembly of the Heater Box, the most difficult part 
is the routing of the control cable.
     I was inspired by the Workshop Manual when I found this method 
to be working correctly:

     a. Take the selector mechanism from the car's dashboard.

     b. Test assemble the cable loosely when the heater box and the 
selector are both out of the car, so that you will get an impesssion 
as to where
         the sleeve should go down at the heater flap (is that 
correct English?)

     c. Disassemble the cable from the selector and remove the outer 
sleeve retaining bracket from the heater box end,
         but keep the inner cable connected to the control flap.

     d. Reassemble the heater box back into the car while rerouting 
the control cable, taking care not to bend the latter item.

     e. With the selector mechanism under the dash rather than in it, 
refit the cable. Once again, check that everything works.
         The trick is that the outer cable holding bracket at the 
control flap is (only just, admittedly) accessible now for fixing the cable.

     f.  Refit the selector mechanism in the dashboard. Readjusting 
the inner cable fitting at the selector end may be required
         to prevent the inner cable from taking up any unnecessary torque.

Well, finally, it works again and the heater unit is no longer leaking,
but all in all, it was definitely the WORST job on my MGB in my 20+ 
years of ownership!

Thank you for your advice.

Bert
Holland
1970 MGB

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sun May 23 13:32:34 2010
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 14:32:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Got jets?
In-Reply-To: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BF982D2.3060202@ktc.com>

  What year B and what carbs?   What do you mean by "breaks up"?

   CR

On 5/22/2010 2:46 PM, daybell7 at aol.com wrote:
> MG'ers,
>
> After installing chrome air cleaners, my MGB breaks up during acceleration.
> Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, it runs fine.  Will Grose jets solve
> this problem?  The chrome air cleaners seen to permit the car to breath better
> at idle.
>
> Thanks for the help.
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun May 23 16:27:41 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 15:27:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Core Removal - Update
In-Reply-To: <20100523182603.78AF0187867@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C81EF9ED.29909%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, I reached the same conclusion. Congratulations for getting it over
with.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 5/23/10 11:26 AM, Bert P at palte at gmx.net wrote:

> Well, finally, it works again and the heater unit is no longer leaking,
> but all in all, it was definitely the WORST job on my MGB in my 20+
> years of ownership!
> 
> Thank you for your advice.
> 
> Bert
> Holland
> 1970 MGB

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Sun May 23 20:53:26 2010
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (J. F. Juhas)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 22:53:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] More NJVGP news: clutch advice needed
Message-ID: <4BF9EA26.90407@snet.net>

When Roger's engine grenaded at New Jersey, I drove past him but just 
barely.  My MGA is struggling with a slipping clutch, and it made my 
last few sessions challenging.  This is a kevlar solid (no springs) 
clutch with a competition-grade pressure plate.  I think oil past the 
rear scroll seal has contaminated it, even though conventional wisdom 
says that oil from there should get flung away from the clutch cover.  
Has anyone dealt with this?  I was able to salvage some sessions by 
spraying brake cleaner up the drain hole with the clutch out and 
spinning on the starter.  That and cooling off would run okay for about 
half a race session.  Engine is a slightly modified 1622 and 4.30:1 
rear.  My next plan is to go to a ceramic clutch material (have a source 
in NJ) and a PCV system to help keep the oil in the engine, although the 
oil consumption does not seem remarkable.  Suggestions welcome.

Jim Juhas
MGA 311

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun May 23 22:04:13 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 21:04:13 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] More NJVGP news: clutch advice needed
In-Reply-To: <4BF9EA26.90407@snet.net>
References: <4BF9EA26.90407@snet.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilk--Qy6vFLmtlVQqLEi1JecJcKsfIK0Fblp7nd@mail.gmail.com>

First rule of British clutches (learned many years ago from hard experience)
if the clutch is slipping, change the pressure plate.  I don't care if it is
supposed to be the world's best PP, it isn't.  Slipping creates heat, heat
weakens pressure plates.  ask me how I know this. (Hint: Been there, done
that, and got the T-shirt that goes with it)
Oil getting past the rear main should be on the wrong side of the flywheel.
However oil can wick up the threads of the flywheel bolts and then get
deposited onto the clutch.
I would have the flywheel machined, and when remounting it, use blue
locktite, or liquid teflon as a thread sealer for the flywheel bolts.
Make sure the front seal on the gear box is good.
Use a new pressure plate.  I would also change the disc, but I have no
experience with kevlar discs so you are on your own there.
On general principle, I would make sure that the inside of the bellhousing
was clean so any new leaks would show up.
Good luck
Rick

On Sun, May 23, 2010 at 7:53 PM, J. F. Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net> wrote:

> When Roger's engine grenaded at New Jersey, I drove past him but just
> barely.  My MGA is struggling with a slipping clutch, and it made my last
> few sessions challenging.  This is a kevlar solid (no springs) clutch with a
> competition-grade pressure plate.  I think oil past the rear scroll seal has
> contaminated it, even though conventional wisdom says that oil from there
> should get flung away from the clutch cover.  Has anyone dealt with this?  I
> was able to salvage some sessions by spraying brake cleaner up the drain
> hole with the clutch out and spinning on the starter.  That and cooling off
> would run okay for about half a race session.  Engine is a slightly modified
> 1622 and 4.30:1 rear.  My next plan is to go to a ceramic clutch material
> (have a source in NJ) and a PCV system to help keep the oil in the engine,
> although the oil consumption does not seem remarkable.  Suggestions welcome.
>
> Jim Juhas
> MGA 311
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From daybell7 at aol.com  Mon May 24 05:38:17 2010
From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 07:38:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Got Jets
Message-ID: <8CCC94CBCBF8525-69C-150E7@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>

The 72 with HIF carbs seems to idle better with chrome air cleaners.  I
attribute this to less restrictive air flow.  The engine falters at a higher
speed in third or fourth gear when I let off the gas and apply the throttle
again.  (It may do it in all gears; I just don't drive the car that way in
first and second gear.)  Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, the engine
is strong regardless of how I apply the throttle.

Thanks again.
Steve H.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 24 05:31:14 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:31:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Q: Horn Orientation
References: <20100521065150.325170@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <748B81C088554C9F894FDFC9C617E333@paul>

The horns should be mounted on right-angle brackets which *should* allow 
quite a lot of variation in where they point.  I have my roadster horns 
mounted direct to the body panel, which restricts things somewhat.  I opted 
to have them facing at the radiator for the very reason of dirt and more 
importantly water entering them if they faced directly forwards, but they 
are noticeably muted compared with the horns on brackets on my V8, which 
face each other, and it isn't due to any electrical issues.  Clausager has 
one clear picture on page 65 facing each other, another on the same page 
facing forwards by implication as I don't think you can see the trumpets, 
and one on page 63 almost certainly facing forwards.  If the car is an 
all-weather driver then maybe towards each other is best, if a fair-weather 
car then forwards shouldn't be a problem.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> As I have always assumed, the horn output opening should be
> facing forward, i.e. in the driving direction.
> Pel told me that it is better when the horn output openings are facing 
> each other because then there is no possibility of dirt entering the 
> horns.
> But then, IMHO, you might have a severe loss of dBs since the horns are 
> not delivering maximum sound output in the desired (forward) direction.
>
> Any thoughts?

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon May 24 05:52:59 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 06:52:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Got Jets
In-Reply-To: <8CCC94CBCBF8525-69C-150E7@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCC94CBCBF8525-69C-150E7@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <997F7397-066C-4D5A-B144-CC7FB708073E@gmail.com>

Did you use the stock ram pipes with the aftermarket aircleaners? If you don't
have some kind of ram pipe you will get stumbling, because you don't have a
smooth path for air to go into the carb.

On May 24, 2010, at 6:38 AM, daybell7 at aol.com wrote:

> The 72 with HIF carbs seems to idle better with chrome air cleaners.  I
> attribute this to less restrictive air flow.  The engine falters at a
higher
> speed in third or fourth gear when I let off the gas and apply the throttle
> again.  (It may do it in all gears; I just don't drive the car that way in
> first and second gear.)  Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, the
engine
> is strong regardless of how I apply the throttle.
>
> Thanks again.
> Steve H.
> _______________________________________________

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 24 06:26:49 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 13:26:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Got jets?
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7DED942BB3D941989A50441B5CEB12A5@paul>

Agree with the comment about Grose jets/float valves having no effect on 
something that changes between two types of filter, but it is common 
knowledge that changing to K&Ns and a tubular manifold usually requires a 
change to a 'richer' needle if you are to avoid flat-spots at mid-throttle 
without having it very rich at idle.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> After installing chrome air cleaners, my MGB breaks up during 
> acceleration.
> Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, it runs fine.  Will Grose jets 
> solve
> this problem?  The chrome air cleaners seen to permit the car to breath 
> better
> at idle.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 24 06:27:23 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 13:27:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Removing sound deading 73 MGB
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
	<95BF06A04F78417FAF3C01854A1C97BF@DELL>
Message-ID: <5C802646C5854DA79AD1DEA31EFFDE07@paul>

Heat gun and scraper.

----- Original Message ----- 
> On my 1973 MGB I have to remove the sound deading material underneath the 
> driver seat so that I can weld a plate to patch an area where the metal 
> has fatigued and split.
>
> Any suggestions on how to do it?

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Mon May 24 07:04:55 2010
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (J. F. Juhas)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:04:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] More NJVGP news: clutch advice needed
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilk--Qy6vFLmtlVQqLEi1JecJcKsfIK0Fblp7nd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4BF9EA26.90407@snet.net>
	<AANLkTilk--Qy6vFLmtlVQqLEi1JecJcKsfIK0Fblp7nd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4BFA7977.1000005@snet.net>

Rick:

Thanks for the suggestions.  I have already followed most of your 
advice.  This Kevlar clutch was new and installed with a new PP last 
September after the previous clutch failed at the end of the LRP Vintage 
Festival.  Since then I raced in two and one half events with seemingly 
no issues.  The half was a shortened LRP Spring Sprints (VSCCA) when I 
broke a lifter.  But before that, I was turning some of my best-ever 
times at LRP at 1:15. 

I seem to be having more clutch trouble with this current 1622 engine, 
where previously, I was running a 1500.  Maybe the rear bearing 
clearances are looser.

I was suspicious of the gearbox seal and the gasket; last time it got a 
new seal and carefully glued-in gasket. I'm not getting and noticeable 
gearbox fluid loss so I think that's not a contributor to this.

I have not refaced the flywheel; didn't have time to do that last Fall, 
but will now.  I had not done the thread sealing idea on the bolts; I'll 
do that this time.  Depending on turnaround, I may install a ceramic 
clutch and pp that will be rebuilt from cores.  I have less than a 
2-week turnaround before my next scheduled event.

Richard Ewald wrote:
> First rule of British clutches (learned many years ago from hard 
> experience) if the clutch is slipping, change the pressure plate.  I 
> don't care if it is supposed to be the world's best PP, it isn't.  
> Slipping creates heat, heat weakens pressure plates.  ask me how I 
> know this. (Hint: Been there, done that, and got the T-shirt that goes 
> with it)
> Oil getting past the rear main should be on the wrong side of the 
> flywheel.  However oil can wick up the threads of the flywheel bolts 
> and then get deposited onto the clutch.
> I would have the flywheel machined, and when remounting it, use blue 
> locktite, or liquid teflon as a thread sealer for the flywheel bolts.
> Make sure the front seal on the gear box is good.
> Use a new pressure plate.  I would also change the disc, but I have no 
> experience with kevlar discs so you are on your own there.
> On general principle, I would make sure that the inside of the 
> bellhousing was clean so any new leaks would show up.
> Good luck
> Rick
>
> On Sun, May 23, 2010 at 7:53 PM, J. F. Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net 
> <mailto:james.f.juhas at snet.net>> wrote:
>
>     When Roger's engine grenaded at New Jersey, I drove past him but
>     just barely.  My MGA is struggling with a slipping clutch, and it
>     made my last few sessions challenging.  This is a kevlar solid (no
>     springs) clutch with a competition-grade pressure plate.  I think
>     oil past the rear scroll seal has contaminated it, even though
>     conventional wisdom says that oil from there should get flung away
>     from the clutch cover.  Has anyone dealt with this?  I was able to
>     salvage some sessions by spraying brake cleaner up the drain hole
>     with the clutch out and spinning on the starter.  That and cooling
>     off would run okay for about half a race session.  Engine is a
>     slightly modified 1622 and 4.30:1 rear.  My next plan is to go to
>     a ceramic clutch material (have a source in NJ) and a PCV system
>     to help keep the oil in the engine, although the oil consumption
>     does not seem remarkable.  Suggestions welcome.
>
>     Jim Juhas
>     MGA 311
>     _______________________________________________

From atweditor at aol.com  Mon May 24 07:37:36 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:37:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Removing sound deading 73 MGB
In-Reply-To: <95BF06A04F78417FAF3C01854A1C97BF@DELL>
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
	<95BF06A04F78417FAF3C01854A1C97BF@DELL>
Message-ID: <8CCC95D67E91FEA-16E0-22419@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com>

 Putty knife on a warm day.

Jay Donoghue
72 B-GT
66 Mustang








-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Straub <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, May 22, 2010 5:23 pm
Subject: [Mgs] Removing sound deading 73 MGB


Hi guys and gals,

On my 1973 MGB I have to remove the sound deading material underneath the
driver seat so that I can weld a plate to patch an area where the metal has
fatigued and split.

Any suggestions on how to do it?

Thanks,

Craig _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From atweditor at aol.com  Mon May 24 07:40:53 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:40:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Got jets?
In-Reply-To: <4BF982D2.3060202@ktc.com>
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
	<4BF982D2.3060202@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <8CCC95DDD5CA460-16E0-224C1@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com>

 What isn't appreciated about the stock air cleaners is that their base's
shape just above the carb air opening is a minor league venturi. If your new
cleaners don't have venturis, that could create a bad effect. However, there
are places that sell bolt-on venturis that actually improve on the original,
and can be used with aftermarket air cleaners. I've got both on my car, and it
runs just fine.

Jay Donoghue
72 B-GT
66 Mustang








-----Original Message-----
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: daybell7 at aol.com
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, May 23, 2010 3:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Got jets?


  What year B and what carbs?   What do you mean by "breaks up"?

  CR

On 5/22/2010 2:46 PM, daybell7 at aol.com wrote:
> MG'ers,
>
> After installing chrome air cleaners, my MGB breaks up during acceleration.
> Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, it runs fine.  Will Grose jets
solve
> this problem?  The chrome air cleaners seen to permit the car to breath
better
> at idle.
>
> Thanks for the help.
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com
_______________________________________________

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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 24 08:35:08 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 15:35:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] More NJVGP news: clutch advice needed
References: <4BF9EA26.90407@snet.net>
Message-ID: <EF01A73E2A6944969C9198B7D0C9C280@paul>

That's probably just theory, when my rear main seal leaked it took the 
clutch with it.  However the (conventional) clutch symptom was snatching, if 
it's slipping and in the highest gear i.e. 4th first, that's usually 
insufficient pressure on the friction plate, and that is usually due to a 
worn friction plate.  One slipper I changed didn't have enough pressure left 
to push the cover plate off with all the bolts removed.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  My MGA is struggling with a slipping clutch, and it made my last few 
> sessions challenging.  This is a kevlar solid (no springs) clutch with a 
> competition-grade pressure plate.  I think oil past the rear scroll seal 
> has contaminated it ... 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May 24 10:59:23 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 18:59:23 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Got jets?
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com><4BF982D2.3060202@ktc.com>
	<8CCC95DDD5CA460-16E0-224C1@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <B04DA562AFE741ABB3CEC0EF25E60AC2@uw471de61b465c>

Seems to me, that change of air cleaner changes the rate of air resistance 
through the air filter.
This all alters the fuel - air mixture, which is normally working correctly 
all carb factory settings.
What are the carb factory settings?
Needle type
Jet type
Spring type of the assembly wherein the needle is fitted
Damper oil type.

As I think the air restriction is higher with the standard air cleaner, 
there are some changes to try out:
Richer needle type
Spring type

Personally I think a richer needle type would help best.
Looking to previous discussions on the list, I would avoid Grose jets.


Cheers,
Hans
71 BGT


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <atweditor at aol.com>
To: <ccrobins at ktc.com>; <daybell7 at aol.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Got jets?


>
> What isn't appreciated about the stock air cleaners is that their base's
> shape just above the carb air opening is a minor league venturi. If your 
> new
> cleaners don't have venturis, that could create a bad effect. However, 
> there
> are places that sell bolt-on venturis that actually improve on the 
> original,
> and can be used with aftermarket air cleaners. I've got both on my car, 
> and it
> runs just fine.
>
> Jay Donoghue
> 72 B-GT
> 66 Mustang
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
> To: daybell7 at aol.com
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, May 23, 2010 3:32 pm
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Got jets?
>
>
>  What year B and what carbs?   What do you mean by "breaks up"?
>
>  CR
>
> On 5/22/2010 2:46 PM, daybell7 at aol.com wrote:
>> MG'ers,
>>
>> After installing chrome air cleaners, my MGB breaks up during 
>> acceleration.
>> Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, it runs fine.  Will Grose jets
> solve
>> this problem?  The chrome air cleaners seen to permit the car to breath
> better
>> at idle.
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>> Steve Hughes
>> Gainesville, FL 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 24 11:21:37 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 10:21:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Got Jets
In-Reply-To: <8CCC94CBCBF8525-69C-150E7@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C82003B1.29936%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I'msorry, but this statement just doesn't make sense.  If the stock air
cleaners are "restricting" the air flow at idle, why aren't they choking it
off completely at open throttle? A quarter million MGBs out there are not
exhibiting "restricted air flow at idle" with their stock air cleaners.

Maybe it's running too rich at idle, but if so it doesn't have anything to
do with the air cleaners. More and more this sounds like a mixture problem.
The new air cleaners are "fixing" it at idle, but exaggerating it at other
throttle settings. The solution is to adjust the mixture correctly, for
whichever intake system you intend to run.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 5/24/10 4:38 AM, daybell7 at aol.com at daybell7 at aol.com wrote:

> The 72 with HIF carbs seems to idle better with chrome air cleaners.  I
> attribute this to less restrictive air flow.  The engine falters at a higher
> speed in third or fourth gear when I let off the gas and apply the throttle
> again.  (It may do it in all gears; I just don't drive the car that way in
> first and second gear.)  Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, the engine
> is strong regardless of how I apply the throttle.
> 
> Thanks again.
> Steve H.

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon May 24 11:57:45 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:57:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Got Jets
In-Reply-To: <8CCC94CBCBF8525-69C-150E7@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCC94CBCBF8525-69C-150E7@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <201005241057927.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

With the filter changing back and forth, could the extra air holes in 
the gaskets not be lined up?
         Peter C
==
At 06:38 AM 5/24/2010, daybell7 at aol.com wrote:
>The 72 with HIF carbs seems to idle better with chrome air cleaners.  I
>attribute this to less restrictive air flow.  The engine falters at a higher
>speed in third or fourth gear when I let off the gas and apply the throttle
>again.  (It may do it in all gears; I just don't drive the car that way in
>first and second gear.)  Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, the engine
>is strong regardless of how I apply the throttle.
>
>Thanks again.
>Steve H.

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 24 16:42:16 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 17:42:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Got Jets
In-Reply-To: <201005241057927.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <8CCC94CBCBF8525-69C-150E7@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com>
	<201005241057927.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <4BFB00C8.2090705@justbrits.com>

<< ...could the extra air holes in the gaskets not be lined up? >>

GREAT thought, Peter.  That brought this one to mind
[found one where it DID happen once]:  are ALL the gasketS
for the spacer blocks and heat shield PRESENT ???
They also MUST be inplace and personally I NEVER re-use
them.  False economy to me.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue May 25 01:57:56 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 08:57:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Got Jets
References: <C82003B1.29936%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CC28DBB5038F4BE3ABAAE61354624370@paul>

All air cleaners restrict, and some restrict more than others.  K&Ns *do* 
restrict less than the standard filters, and the needles were originally 
chosen to balance the level of restriction of the original filters through 
the throttle range.  Do anything to improve the breathing, and filter type 
is just one of those, and you may well have to change the needle profile to 
restore the balance.  Ironically ram-pipes may make things *worse* by 
smoothing the air-flow, other engines have design features to *cause* 
turbulence to ensure proper mixing and distribution through the cylinder. 
If you have to change the filters, then try a richer needle, there are lots 
to choose from and various programs that compare them graphically.  But like 
many so-called improvements to the MGB any change is only likely to be 
detectable at the limit.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'msorry, but this statement just doesn't make sense.  If the stock air
> cleaners are "restricting" the air flow at idle, why aren't they choking 
> it
> off completely at open throttle? 

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Tue May 25 09:43:05 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 11:43:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Midget seat frames
Message-ID: <SNT124-W239F0BA3878B66832FD683B7E80@phx.gbl>

Hello listers,

I'm getting ready to install a new interior in my '73 Midget. During the
teardown of the seats I discovered that the seat frames are badly rusted - the
tubular frame has actually rusted through in a couple places - and of course
the reclining mechanism is rusted and frozen (to be expected).   Before I get
desperate and start trying to weld up some kind of Frankenstein seat frame,
does anyone have a decent pair of 70s tubular seat frames they'd be willing to
part with (for a price, of course)?



If you reply, please be sure to hit "reply all," since I'm in digest-mode at
the moment and won't get replies sent only to the list until the next digest
goes out.



Cheers & TIA



Mike Eldred

Wilmington, VT



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 25 11:20:36 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 10:20:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Midget seat frames
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W239F0BA3878B66832FD683B7E80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <534155.583.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

i have a set of 73 mgb seats that i would sell for a very reasonable price. 
shipping would be from dallas, tx

--- On Tue, 5/25/10, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Midget seat frames
To: spridgets at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, May 25, 2010, 10:43 AM


Hello listers,

I'm getting ready to install a new interior in my '73 Midget. During the
teardown of the seats I discovered that the seat frames are badly rusted -
the
tubular frame has actually rusted through in a couple places - and of course
the reclining mechanism is rusted and frozen (to be expected).   Before I get
desperate and start trying to weld up some kind of Frankenstein seat frame,
does anyone have a decent pair of 70s tubular seat frames they'd be willing
to
part with (for a price, of course)?



If you reply, please be sure to hit "reply all," since I'm in digest-mode at
the moment and won't get replies sent only to the list until the next digest
goes out.



Cheers & TIA



Mike Eldred

Wilmington, VT



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From atweditor at aol.com  Wed May 26 14:07:59 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 16:07:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Got Jets
In-Reply-To: <CC28DBB5038F4BE3ABAAE61354624370@paul>
References: <C82003B1.29936%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<CC28DBB5038F4BE3ABAAE61354624370@paul>
Message-ID: <8CCCB2645D2E2A4-E28-2349@webmail-d070.sysops.aol.com>

 All this may be true, but when I switched to K&Ns in a different holder, and
used modest ram pipes underneath, I got nothing but a pleasant result. Faster
revving, more power at lower RPMs. I never touched the mixture or jets.



Jay Donoghue
72 B-GT
66 Mustang



-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, May 25, 2010 3:57 am
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Got Jets


All air cleaners restrict, and some restrict more than others.  K&Ns *do*
restrict less than the standard filters, and the needles were originally
chosen to balance the level of restriction of the original filters through the
throttle range.  Do anything to improve the breathing, and filter type is just
one of those, and you may well have to change the needle profile to restore
the balance.  Ironically ram-pipes may make things *worse* by smoothing the
air-flow, other engines have design features to *cause* turbulence to ensure
proper mixing and distribution through the cylinder. If you have to change the
filters, then try a richer needle, there are lots to choose from and various
programs that compare them graphically.  But like many so-called improvements
to the MGB any change is only likely to be detectable at the limit.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- > I'msorry, but this statement just doesn't make
sense.  If the stock air
> cleaners are "restricting" the air flow at idle, why aren't they choking >
it
> off completely at open throttle?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com


=

From riverside at southslope.net  Wed May 26 21:42:53 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 22:42:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Air Cleaners
References: <8CCC7FE8BB597C5-18F8-5C9D@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com><4BF982D2.3060202@ktc.com>
	<8CCC95DDD5CA460-16E0-224C1@webmail-m027.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <002601cafd4e$b14d4cb0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Has anyone had any experiance with the airflow charictaristics of the K&N 
tapered air filters
used on the dual SU changeover on late model B's ?  They seem to be the only 
after market filters
avalible with the clearances needed for this set-up.  The  filter  is only 
about an inch and a quarter
thick and  the outer cover is about half the size of the base. The airflow 
thru the filter is almost
straight into the carb throat. I am sure that a (very) short venturi would 
help. However, for clearance purposes,
one base has the mounting and air hole offset to the limit to the bottom of 
the base. The inside edge of the filter
is at the edge of the air hole and because of the filter taper and thickness 
and mounting there is no room
for a venturi.  The car runs fine with no filters on but has a "search" 
atitude at highway speed with the
filters in place. Partial taping of the filter area to change the airflow 
seems to cure this.
I know this sounds like a mixture/ needle problem but I have not been able 
to address this yet as I have a
new distribitor to install first. No, I don't think it is ignition related, 
just looking for experiances with these
filters.

Ron Sanborn
67,72,74 MGBGTs
61 Austin Healey 3000 (nasty boy)
71 Jaguar XJ6 SWB
86 Bertone (current driver)
& more

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <atweditor at aol.com>
To: <ccrobins at ktc.com>; <daybell7 at aol.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Got jets?


> What isn't appreciated about the stock air cleaners is that their base's
> shape just above the carb air opening is a minor league venturi. If your 
> new
> cleaners don't have venturis, that could create a bad effect. However, 
> there
> are places that sell bolt-on venturis that actually improve on the 
> original,
> and can be used with aftermarket air cleaners. I've got both on my car, 
> and it
> runs just fine.
>
> Jay Donoghue
> 72 B-GT
> 66 Mustang
>







>       MG'ers,
>>
>> After installing chrome air cleaners, my MGB breaks up during 
>> acceleration.
>> Once I reinstall the stock air cleaners, it runs fine.  Will Grose jets
> solve
>> this problem?  The chrome air cleaners seen to permit the car to breath
> better
>> at idle.
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>> Steve Hughes
>> Gainesville, FL
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net 

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Thu May 27 04:29:07 2010
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 11:29:07 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
Message-ID: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>

Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local car
club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy should
we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars do
less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over 10
years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.

The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls that
you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but at
what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?

Kindest Regards

Tom
Classic-Car-World Ltd
www.ccw-tools.com

AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
MGA 1600
Mini Park Lane

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Thu May 27 05:01:09 2010
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 12:01:09 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikqoyolgcTIURTzg5TtS3809n3rOlBrqj5SGwMF@mail.gmail.com>

I wouldn't want tyres that were more than 10 years old on my car, whatever
mileage they'd done and whatever they looked like.

I saw a fascinating youtube clip (sorry, it was months ago, lost the link),
an excerpt from some American investigative journalism program, on the
subject.  It said that in the EU tyres have sell-by dates, so they
legally can't be sold even if they are totally unused.  These don't apply in
the US, and they interviewed some suppliers trying to squirm out a
justification (inevitably interspersed with sob stories about horrific
injuries caused by old tyres).

They can be rotten underneath while still looking fine on the surface.

Just my opinion...

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Thu May 27 07:35:48 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:35:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>

I recall learning that after some amount of time (7 - 10 yrs?) that the 
rubber tends to harden and grip suffers.  My BGT has 10+ yr old tyres 
(Pirelli P600) and can be downright dangerous in the rain, too much slip 
on dry as well.  The Dunlop SP20's on my A are only about 5 yrs old and 
grip nicely once warmed up, but not enough experience with them lately 
in the rain to offer an opinion.
HTH

Gordie
'62 MGA MKII
'67 BGT

Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
> Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local car
> club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy should
> we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars do
> less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
> months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over 10
> years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.
>
> The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls that
> you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but at
> what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?
>
> Kindest Regards
>
> Tom
> Classic-Car-World Ltd
> www.ccw-tools.com
>
> AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
> MGA 1600
> Mini Park Lane
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5149 (20100527) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From awhitema at panix.com  Thu May 27 07:52:36 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 06:52:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
	<4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A4BAA40D-C909-4AA9-82A6-585E1A3155D5@panix.com>

On May 27, 2010, at 6:35 AM, gordies garage wrote:

> I recall learning that after some amount of time (7 - 10 yrs?) that the
rubber tends to harden and grip suffers.  My BGT has 10+ yr old tyres (Pirelli
P600) and can be downright dangerous in the rain, too much slip on dry as
well.  The Dunlop SP20's on my A are only about 5 yrs old and grip nicely once
warmed up, but not enough experience with them lately in the rain to offer an
opinion.

Gordie, tires are a safety device, replace those Pirellis if they are
dangerous!

I currently have a ~3 year old set of Bridgestone RE960 on my car, with a
"40000 mile warranty".  They'll never see 40K; I'll replace them in a couple
years (with maybe 15K).  I'd replace them this year, but I have a 2006 Subaru
that needs new tires too.

I'll be going back to the Yoko ES100 on the MG.  No mileage warranty and I
wear out a set in about 15K miles... but oh do they hold a car to the road!

--
Aaron

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu May 27 08:14:32 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:14:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
	<4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F1385F7C-28E8-4564-9458-14D3C422C340@gmail.com>

About 4 years ago I got my daily driver 1999 Impreza Outback Sport. It had
been sitting for about a year and had older tires on it. It had about 70,000
miles on it. I'm pretty sure the tires had been changed at least once.

They seemed ok in the dry, not great. But when there was any rain, they were
downright scary. You couldn't make a left turn at any normal speed. I replaced
them quickly.  It was an incredible transformation.

On May 27, 2010, at 8:35 AM, gordies garage wrote:

> I recall learning that after some amount of time (7 - 10 yrs?) that the
rubber tends to harden and grip suffers.  My BGT has 10+ yr old tyres (Pirelli
P600) and can be downright dangerous in the rain, too much slip on dry as
well.  The Dunlop SP20's on my A are only about 5 yrs old and grip nicely once
warmed up, but not enough experience with them lately in the rain to offer an
opinion.
> HTH
>
> Gordie
> '62 MGA MKII
> '67 BGT
>
> Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
>> Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local
car
>> club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy
should
>> we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars
do
>> less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
>> months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over
10
>> years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.
>>
>> The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls
that
>> you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but
at
>> what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?
>>
>> Kindest Regards
>>
>> Tom
>> Classic-Car-World Ltd
>> www.ccw-tools.com
>>
>> AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
>> MGA 1600
>> Mini Park Lane
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>>
>> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 5149 (20100527) __________
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu May 27 07:51:29 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 14:51:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <67B14A544D20414EA1418B7B381DAD7E@paul>

I'd go along with them turning to plastic after about 7 to 10 years.  I 
certainly noticed a big increase in rear end grip after changing those on 
the roadster last year which had done over that.  The fronts need replacing 
this year, just done those on the V8, and the ZS needs fronts as well.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Thu May 27 08:22:53 2010
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:22:53 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <F1385F7C-28E8-4564-9458-14D3C422C340@gmail.com>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
	<4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
	<F1385F7C-28E8-4564-9458-14D3C422C340@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTincbMZQsSNJwSMbmQ4NbpF4cFd2tvDgSa1uCL5K@mail.gmail.com>

There are scarier issues with old tyres than just poor grip - such as the
tyre disintegrating as the layer outside the steel bands splits off
completely.  Had that happen to me before.  Not fun.

Richard & Sammy

From peter.schauss at ngc.com  Thu May 27 08:39:01 2010
From: peter.schauss at ngc.com (Schauss, Peter (IT Solutions))
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:39:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MGS] Air Cleaners
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15420.1274970115.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15420.1274970115.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CD9150D80CFCFB42BC73C40791C1E019077D0131@XMBIL112.northgrum.com>

I have been running the K&N filters on my 1980 B with HS4's for at least
5 years.  I did have a slight miss at highway speeds shortly after I
made the conversion.  It turned out that the needles which came with my
HS4's were not the correct ones, probably too lean.  Replacing them with
stock needles solved the problem.

HTH,
Peter Schauss

-----Original Message-----

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 22:42:53 -0500
From: "riverside" <riverside at southslope.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Air Cleaners
To: <ccrobins at ktc.com>, <daybell7 at aol.com>, <atweditor at aol.com>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <002601cafd4e$b14d4cb0$0301a8c0 at your55e5f9e3d2>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Has anyone had any experiance with the airflow charictaristics of the
K&N
tapered air filters
used on the dual SU changeover on late model B's ?  They seem to be the
only
after market filters
avalible with the clearances needed for this set-up.  The  filter  is
only
about an inch and a quarter
thick and  the outer cover is about half the size of the base. The
airflow
thru the filter is almost
straight into the carb throat. I am sure that a (very) short venturi
would
help. However, for clearance purposes,
one base has the mounting and air hole offset to the limit to the bottom
of
the base. The inside edge of the filter
is at the edge of the air hole and because of the filter taper and
thickness
and mounting there is no room
for a venturi.  The car runs fine with no filters on but has a "search"
atitude at highway speed with the
filters in place. Partial taping of the filter area to change the
airflow
seems to cure this.
I know this sounds like a mixture/ needle problem but I have not been
able
to address this yet as I have a
new distribitor to install first. No, I don't think it is ignition
related,
just looking for experiances with these
filters.

Ron Sanborn
67,72,74 MGBGTs
61 Austin Healey 3000 (nasty boy)
71 Jaguar XJ6 SWB
86 Bertone (current driver)
& more

****************

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu May 27 08:58:39 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 07:58:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Not Healey - Jaguar XK 150 Brakes
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE6544575ACBB4D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
	<7ACEC69FABF54883B0610B6D06755C12@user8634b3d69b>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE6544575ACBB4D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin3s_ysY9cwsJh2KRCfmyTpMV6glyRqtfV7DlSM@mail.gmail.com>

The master cylinder rod is too long, not allowing the brakes to release.
 Unbolt the master and the brakes should release.  If they do, this confirms
the diagnosis.
Rick

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 7:20 AM, Jonas Payne <jpayne at thorcon.net> wrote:

> Not sure what the etiquette is for asking non Healey Questions........
>
> Have recently replaced the entire hydraulic system on my Jag xk 150, The
> car
> has a servo, which I have plumbed in, but did not attach the vaccum line
> to.
>
> Also replaced the master cyl with an "equivalent" unit that showed up with
> a
> pushrod that was way too short, so I reused the old rod and attempted to
> set
> up at the same length.
>
> Brakes will not release and remain firmly clamped on discs after bleeding.
> The car won't even move.  Is the problem not having the servo hooked up or
> related to the adjustment of the master cylinder rod?
>
> Jonas Payne
> Director of Preconstruction
> Thor Construction
> PH:    (702) 269-2007
> Fax:   (702) 269-7095
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
>
> "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for
> the
> use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
> received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
> and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender
> to
> solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this
> email
> are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of
> Thor
> Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check this email
> and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company accepts no
> liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this
> email."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu May 27 09:43:25 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:43:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Jaguar XK 150 Brakes
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC><7ACEC69FABF54883B0610B6D06755C12@user8634b3d69b><AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE6544575ACBB4D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
	<AANLkTin3s_ysY9cwsJh2KRCfmyTpMV6glyRqtfV7DlSM@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8E55091FE6F94CC9B3D23EAAEBB46CFA@paul>

Got to be something else, if they are clamped on *immediately* after 
bleeding, but I can't imagine what.  If the push-rod is too long, preventing 
the master piston coming back far enough to clear the bypass hole, that can 
certainly cause the brakes to stick on, but only when they have got hot and 
the fluid has expanded and has nowhere else to go except into the calipers 
and cylinders.  Simply opening one bleed nipple in each circuit to release 
the pressure is enough to diagnose that.  Another cause of this is if there 
is a mechanical brake light switch and that is adjusted too far towards the 
brake pedal, which also prevents the pedal coming back far enough.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The master cylinder rod is too long, not allowing the brakes to release.
> Unbolt the master and the brakes should release.  If they do, this 
> confirms
> the diagnosis.

>> Brakes will not release and remain firmly clamped on discs after 
>> bleeding.
>> The car won't even move.  Is the problem not having the servo hooked up 
>> or
>> related to the adjustment of the master cylinder rod?

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 27 10:43:07 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:43:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <C823EF2B.29A79%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I have heard "5 years" bandied about frequently, but I suspect that is just
a C.Y.A. figure put out by tire dealers. I would think that under the
conditions you describe, 10 year old tires would be fine. It's not like
these cars are experiencing sustained speeds in excess of 100mph. So long as
the pressure is maintained properly, they are probably fine for normal
driving, for even longer than that. Just don't put yourself into a position
where a sudden delamination would be fatal.

IMHO, YMMV, no legal responsibility, etc.
--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 5/27/10 3:29 AM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd at
enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk wrote:

> Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local car
> club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy should
> we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars do
> less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
> months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over 10
> years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.
> 
> The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls that
> you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but at
> what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?
> 
> Kindest Regards
> 
> Tom
> Classic-Car-World Ltd
> www.ccw-tools.com
> 
> AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
> MGA 1600
> Mini Park Lane

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu May 27 12:34:55 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 14:34:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>,
	<4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W36BAABC1B315DF35448B2DB7EA0@phx.gbl>

Sounds like you're all suggesting I should consider replacing the 20+ year-old
tires on my TF ;)

How time flies.

> Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:35:48 -0400
> From: mg_garage at comcast.net
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
>
> I recall learning that after some amount of time (7 - 10 yrs?) that the
> rubber tends to harden and grip suffers. My BGT has 10+ yr old tyres
> (Pirelli P600) and can be downright dangerous in the rain, too much slip
> on dry as well. The Dunlop SP20's on my A are only about 5 yrs old and
> grip nicely once warmed up, but not enough experience with them lately
> in the rain to offer an opinion.
> HTH
>
> Gordie
> '62 MGA MKII
> '67 BGT
>
> Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
> > Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local
car
> > club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy
should
> > we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars
do
> > less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
> > months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over
10
> > years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.
> >
> > The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls
that
> > you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but
at
> > what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?
> >
> > Kindest Regards
> >
> > Tom
> > Classic-Car-World Ltd
> > www.ccw-tools.com
> >
> > AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
> > MGA 1600
> > Mini Park Lane
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
> >
> > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 5149 (20100527) __________
> >
> > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
> >
> > http://www.eset.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 27 14:08:03 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:08:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG in Dallas
In-Reply-To: <4A06017B.4060707@gmail.com>
References: <000601c9d0e1$703b8e20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<4A06017B.4060707@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A3FAA5ED4C2F4A888D1F1FB242F6F6AC@ranteer.local>

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1730238751.html

thought you would get a chuckle out of this one.  "Definitely a collector" 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu May 27 14:12:34 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 13:12:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG in Dallas
In-Reply-To: <A3FAA5ED4C2F4A888D1F1FB242F6F6AC@ranteer.local>
References: <000601c9d0e1$703b8e20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<4A06017B.4060707@gmail.com>
	<A3FAA5ED4C2F4A888D1F1FB242F6F6AC@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <392657.25341.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I hate when the word 'restored' is used to describe a car that is definitely non-stock. 'Restored', to me, is short-hand for
'restored to factory stock condition'....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, May 27, 2010 4:08:03 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MG in Dallas

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1730238751.html

thought you would get a chuckle out of this one.  "Definitely a collector" _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu May 27 14:19:22 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:19:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG in Dallas
In-Reply-To: <A3FAA5ED4C2F4A888D1F1FB242F6F6AC@ranteer.local>
References: <000601c9d0e1$703b8e20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>,
	<4A06017B.4060707@gmail.com>,
	<A3FAA5ED4C2F4A888D1F1FB242F6F6AC@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W26F66F23278B7A66922E8DB7EA0@phx.gbl>

The price seems about right for a concours-quality "Mini MG M.G.," but where
are the gold curb feelers and the fuzzy dice?

> From: sumton at sbcglobal.net
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:08:03 -0500
> Subject: [Mgs] MG in Dallas
>
> http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1730238751.html
>
> thought you would get a chuckle out of this one. "Definitely a collector"
> _______________________________________________


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu May 27 15:34:27 2010
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 14:34:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <C823EF2B.29A79%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20100527173427.JYKAS.4473013.root@mp05>

Rubber degrades and becomes brittle after about 4 years.

At about 50 to 100 per tire this should not be an item to scrimp on.

Unless you do not drive the car in which case get some original Dunlop bias plys and shine n show away.  Just remember that you should only roll the car on and off the trailer.

Oh yes, you will need to replace those 5 year old trailer tires though.

I am on my third set of tires in 9 years and now looking at a fourth set after the parking lot solos a few weekends ago.  Yes I drive my car hard and a lot.


---- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> I have heard "5 years" bandied about frequently, but I suspect that is just
> a C.Y.A. figure put out by tire dealers. I would think that under the
> conditions you describe, 10 year old tires would be fine. It's not like
> these cars are experiencing sustained speeds in excess of 100mph. So long as
> the pressure is maintained properly, they are probably fine for normal
> driving, for even longer than that. Just don't put yourself into a position
> where a sudden delamination would be fatal.
> 
> IMHO, YMMV, no legal responsibility, etc.
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on 5/27/10 3:29 AM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd at
> enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk wrote:
> 
> > Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local car
> > club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy should
> > we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars do
> > less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
> > months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over 10
> > years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.
> > 
> > The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls that
> > you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but at
> > what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?
> > 
> > Kindest Regards
> > 
> > Tom
> > Classic-Car-World Ltd
> > www.ccw-tools.com
> > 
> > AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
> > MGA 1600
> > Mini Park Lane
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/bighealey at charter.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 27 15:41:08 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:41:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG in Dallas
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W26F66F23278B7A66922E8DB7EA0@phx.gbl>
References: <000601c9d0e1$703b8e20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>,
	<4A06017B.4060707@gmail.com>,
	<A3FAA5ED4C2F4A888D1F1FB242F6F6AC@ranteer.local>
	<SNT124-W26F66F23278B7A66922E8DB7EA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4BFEE6F4.1050000@justbrits.com>

H E Y !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

<< ...and the fuzzy dice? >>

let's lighten-up on dice, Mike !!!!!!


NOW I gotta make SURE that "Blackie" ['70 Camino with
white ones and black pips] AND "Amber" ['70 Camino with
yellow ones and black pips] do NOT see your 'post' !!!

I'd never hear the end of it <sigh> !!!!!!

<VBG> !!!!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu May 27 17:53:14 2010
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 23:53:14 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
Message-ID: <20100527.195314.21057.3@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>

  No need, unless you drive it.
  On the road, though, you will find the car to drive much better.
  I had tires replaced a couple of years back by a small tire store. Though I
asked that the proprietor do the work, he entrusted it to a lad who
enthusiastically bent three wheels.
  Tires mounted to the rim for a long time can be quite stuck, the
wheel-straightening shop told me. Though bending is most usually done by
carelessness with the changer, if the tire is stuck to the rim the rim can be
pushed in.
  Check the wheels for roundness and lateral displacement after the old tires
are off.
Bob
b

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>

From barrie at look.ca  Sun May 30 15:40:36 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 17:40:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <F1385F7C-28E8-4564-9458-14D3C422C340@gmail.com>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
	<4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
	<F1385F7C-28E8-4564-9458-14D3C422C340@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1OIqaj-0006hy-63@beta.look.ca>

You chaps are really making me nervous!  Maybe I should get new tyres 
for my 1955 Aston - but then I will lose originality 
!!                                        chuckle.




At 10:14 AM 5/27/2010, Paul Root wrote:
>About 4 years ago I got my daily driver 1999 Impreza Outback Sport. It had
>been sitting for about a year and had older tires on it. It had about 70,000
>miles on it. I'm pretty sure the tires had been changed at least once.
>
>They seemed ok in the dry, not great. But when there was any rain, they were
>downright scary. You couldn't make a left turn at any normal speed. I replaced
>them quickly.  It was an incredible transformation.
>
>On May 27, 2010, at 8:35 AM, gordies garage wrote:
>
> > I recall learning that after some amount of time (7 - 10 yrs?) that the
>rubber tends to harden and grip suffers.  My BGT has 10+ yr old tyres (Pirelli
>P600) and can be downright dangerous in the rain, too much slip on dry as
>well.  The Dunlop SP20's on my A are only about 5 yrs old and grip nicely once
>warmed up, but not enough experience with them lately in the rain to offer an
>opinion.
> > HTH
> >
> > Gordie
> > '62 MGA MKII
> > '67 BGT
> >
> > Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
> >> Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local
>car
> >> club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy
>should
> >> we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars
>do
> >> less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
> >> months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over
>10
> >> years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.
> >>
> >> The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls
>that
> >> you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but
>at
> >> what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?
> >>
> >> Kindest Regards
> >>
> >> Tom
> >> Classic-Car-World Ltd
> >> www.ccw-tools.com
> >>
> >> AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
> >> MGA 1600
> >> Mini Park Lane
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >> Mgs at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
> >>
> >> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
>signature database 5149 (20100527) __________
> >>
> >> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
> >>
> >> http://www.eset.com
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 31 02:03:23 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 09:03:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC><4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net><F1385F7C-28E8-4564-9458-14D3C422C340@gmail.com>
	<E1OIqaj-0006hy-63@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <F9D8715B6031459A8575EA7451243B65@paul>

I hope you use Newport Pagnell air to top them up ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> You chaps are really making me nervous!  Maybe I should get new tyres 
> for my 1955 Aston - but then I will lose originality 

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Mon May 31 04:17:51 2010
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 11:17:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <4BFE5299.7080702@chello.nl>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
	<4BFE5299.7080702@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <6CEB4812D1BD41FCA707835DF5CF2D3A@TomVistaPC>

Hi Kees, interestingly the guy who asked the question on the tyres has a 
Lotus Elan. Last year on our way to a show, I was following behind in the 
Healey, it was raining not too heavy and the road was damp. After coming off 
a round about and accelerating up hill slightly he lost control and ended up 
in the hedge, please see the following links:

http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/images/DSCF1095.jpg
http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/images/DSCF1096.jpg

I never thought about it at the time but this was a sudden loss of grip at 
slow speed around 20 - 25MPH. I guess it could have been as a result of the 
tyres being old and hard?

Kindest Regards

Tom
Classic-Car-World Ltd
www.ccw-tools.com

AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
MGA 1600
Mini Park Lane


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre life expectancy


> Tom,
> This has been discussed regularly on all classic car fora.
> For safety sake tires should be changed after 7-10 years of age (as 
> indicated by the marks on the tire, not the bill of sale), depending on 
> storage conditions and opinion of people in the know. They may be 
> perfectly OK after this time but you cannot be sure. The compound hardens 
> ( leading to bad road behaviour and wet road performance) and can change 
> without any external signs like cracks or crazing, also invisible internal 
> delamination can be at hand (sudden blow out, desintegration of tire).
> Tire tests show again and again that NOS tires do not comply anymore with 
> the original High Speed requirements and many serious accidents caused by 
> a blow out have been attributed to old tires that were sold and fitted as 
> new tires.
> My own experience has been with the tires on my Jensen Healey I bought 2 
> years ago. It had new tires in 1999 (date of manufacture 1997) , had 
> driven about 2000mls from that time and the tires looked absolutely brand 
> new. Wet road behaviour was terrible and it handled like a dog, OK they 
> were Hankooks but even new Hankooks should not handle that bad. Obviously 
> the compound had hardened considerably.
> I changed them recently to Nokian V tires and this changed the road 
> behaviour of the car very dramatically.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
>> Hi all, we had an interesting discussion last night at our monthly local 
>> car
>> club meeting when someone asked the question of "what life expectancy 
>> should
>> we expect from the tyres fitted to our classic cars"? Some of these cars 
>> do
>> less than 1000 miles a year and almost all are laid up during the winter
>> months in dry storage. Some cars have been in the same ownership for over 
>> 10
>> years and have the same tyres fitted when they acquired the vehicle.
>>
>> The tyre condition is good with no apparent cracking on the tyre walls 
>> that
>> you see on some very old tyres and tyre wear is not the issue either, but 
>> at
>> what point should you consider changing these anyway due to age?
>>
>> Kindest Regards
>>
>> Tom
>> Classic-Car-World Ltd
>> www.ccw-tools.com
>>
>> AH 3000 MkIII (BJ8)
>> MGA 1600
>> Mini Park Lane
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 
>> 271.1.1/2899 - datum van uitgifte: 05/27/10 08:25:00

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 31 04:35:25 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 11:35:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Tyre life expectancy
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC><4BFE5299.7080702@chello.nl>
	<6CEB4812D1BD41FCA707835DF5CF2D3A@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <E24CA590748C4D0381087E62B1B02DB1@paul>

That's it, much more likely with old tyres than exploding at 100mph 
(assuming no bumps or cuts).

----- Original Message ----- 
> I never thought about it at the time but this was a sudden loss of grip at 
> slow speed around 20 - 25MPH. I guess it could have been as a result of 
> the tyres being old and hard?

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Mon May 31 05:16:54 2010
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 12:16:54 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <E24CA590748C4D0381087E62B1B02DB1@paul>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC><4BFE5299.7080702@chello.nl>
	<6CEB4812D1BD41FCA707835DF5CF2D3A@TomVistaPC>
	<E24CA590748C4D0381087E62B1B02DB1@paul>
Message-ID: <96EA4E9059844CA4A2343DFC72F5C2B8@TomVistaPC>

Hi Paul, the driver was fine apart from being a little bit shaken. The car 
ended up being recovered and a complete new front section grafted on.

Again another picture below:

http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/images/DSCF1103.jpg

Tom


> That's it, much more likely with old tyres than exploding at 100mph 
> (assuming no bumps or cuts).

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Mon May 31 05:37:03 2010
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 21:37:03 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <96EA4E9059844CA4A2343DFC72F5C2B8@TomVistaPC>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC><4BFE5299.7080702@chello.nl>
	<6CEB4812D1BD41FCA707835DF5CF2D3A@TomVistaPC>
	<E24CA590748C4D0381087E62B1B02DB1@paul>
	<96EA4E9059844CA4A2343DFC72F5C2B8@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <4E89D37C-427E-42D2-9096-DBCBE5D8BBB8@ghs.com.au>

I can never understand why people risk so much for the sake of saving a few
lousy bucks on good tires.  Last year I bought a beautiful MG SA. Tires looked
brand new but I knew they had a good few years on them.  Got rid of them after
the first drive and the difference was remarkable. Why do people so often
become soooo cheap when it comes too tires?

Murray Arundell

Sent from my iPad

On 31/05/2010, at 9:16 PM, "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd"
<enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi Paul, the driver was fine apart from being a little bit shaken. The car
ended up being recovered and a complete new front section grafted on.
>
> Again another picture below:
>
> http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/images/DSCF1103.jpg
>
> Tom
>
>
>> That's it, much more likely with old tyres than exploding at 100mph
(assuming no bumps or cuts).
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon May 31 05:46:39 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 21:16:39 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <4E89D37C-427E-42D2-9096-DBCBE5D8BBB8@ghs.com.au>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC><4BFE5299.7080702@chello.nl>
	<6CEB4812D1BD41FCA707835DF5CF2D3A@TomVistaPC>
	<E24CA590748C4D0381087E62B1B02DB1@paul>
	<96EA4E9059844CA4A2343DFC72F5C2B8@TomVistaPC>
	<4E89D37C-427E-42D2-9096-DBCBE5D8BBB8@ghs.com.au>
Message-ID: <75840D2A-C928-49D0-96E5-FD6BE5B938D7@erickson.on.net>

On 31/05/2010, at 9:07 PM, Murray Arundell wrote:
> Why do people so often
> become soooo cheap when it comes too tires?
> 


I dream of being cheap with my tyres.

$325 each for my Advans  :-)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon May 31 05:41:15 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 12:41:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Tyre life expectancy
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC><4BFE5299.7080702@chello.nl>
	<6CEB4812D1BD41FCA707835DF5CF2D3A@TomVistaPC>
	<E24CA590748C4D0381087E62B1B02DB1@paul>
	<96EA4E9059844CA4A2343DFC72F5C2B8@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <87CEBB3AA1C94CCBA5D27D2DB7DC0B19@paul>

That was bad luck, looked like it had only kissed the hedge from the other 
angles.  Fibre-glass does have a finite stress level though, up to a point 
it will resist impact better than metal, after that it explodes.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Hi Paul, the driver was fine apart from being a little bit shaken. The car 
> ended up being recovered and a complete new front section grafted on.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 31 09:08:07 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 10:08:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1.75" SU's
In-Reply-To: <88358.18049.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <9806FB24-8B0C-4172-8A3D-058F8A55F1FE@tampabay.rr.com>
	<88358.18049.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <096CDA1F9AFB485A8042A32F0ED1CB6A@ranteer.local>

hi.

i would like to put 1.75" SU's on my 73 mgb roadster.  does anyone know 
where i can get an intake manifold?

thanks. 

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon May 31 09:12:03 2010
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 11:12:03 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] 1.75" SU's
Message-ID: <1182a.16142553.39352bc3@aol.com>

In a message dated 31/05/2010 8:09:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

i would  like to put 1.75" SU's on my 73 mgb roadster.  does anyone know 
where  i can get an intake manifold?





It is a waste of time unless you have a high compression engine with a fair 
 bit of cam.  There are any number of outlets for the manifold - a .03  
second Google will reveal them to you.
 
Bill S.

From barrie at look.ca  Mon May 31 10:01:42 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 12:01:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tyre life expectancy
In-Reply-To: <F9D8715B6031459A8575EA7451243B65@paul>
References: <EF6B4D68AF33436BBD73D85D3D0C2045@TomVistaPC>
	<4BFE7534.4040909@comcast.net>
	<F1385F7C-28E8-4564-9458-14D3C422C340@gmail.com>
	<E1OIqaj-0006hy-63@beta.look.ca>
	<F9D8715B6031459A8575EA7451243B65@paul>
Message-ID: <E1OJ7sr-0006dH-8u@zeta.look.ca>

Paul,

Of course!  But it is difficult to get it these days.


At 04:03 AM 5/31/2010, Paul Hunt wrote:
>I hope you use Newport Pagnell air to top them up ...
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>You chaps are really making me nervous!  Maybe I should get new 
>>tyres for my 1955 Aston - but then I will lose originality
>

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From twobees at sprynet.com  Mon May 31 14:26:36 2010
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 16:26:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re.  1.75" SU's
Message-ID: <006501cb00ff$91f53da0$6401a8c0@normoffice>

Bill is correct in that you need to have a more powerful engine than stock
in order to utilize more fuel/air.

But, you also need to do some research on manifolds.  There are a few out
there.  Some are good, some not.  Find a good MG parts supplier who can help
you in your search.  (That leaves out VB.) Or do some reading.  Maniflow is
generally among the best for Spridgets.  Don't know if they make anything
for a B.

Norm

From shaws at mlcltd.com  Mon May 31 16:42:34 2010
From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 17:42:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1.75" SU's
In-Reply-To: <096CDA1F9AFB485A8042A32F0ED1CB6A@ranteer.local>
References: <9806FB24-8B0C-4172-8A3D-058F8A55F1FE@tampabay.rr.com>
	<88358.18049.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<096CDA1F9AFB485A8042A32F0ED1CB6A@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <2BE2D571-A792-47DA-B50C-42573492610E@mlcltd.com>

APT. it is very effective.

On May 31, 2010, at 10:08 AM, oliver wrote:

> hi.
>
> i would like to put 1.75" SU's on my 73 mgb roadster.  does anyone  
> know where i can get an intake manifold?
>
> thanks. _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ 
> shaws at mlcltd.com

Bob Shaw
shaws at mlcltd.com
shawsgarage at mlcltd.com

My MGA is NOT leaking - merely marking it's territory!

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 31 19:53:50 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 20:53:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1.75" SU's
In-Reply-To: <2BE2D571-A792-47DA-B50C-42573492610E@mlcltd.com>
References: <9806FB24-8B0C-4172-8A3D-058F8A55F1FE@tampabay.rr.com>
	<88358.18049.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<096CDA1F9AFB485A8042A32F0ED1CB6A@ranteer.local>
	<2BE2D571-A792-47DA-B50C-42573492610E@mlcltd.com>
Message-ID: <9E3B7E68BD8F4DDEB1328182603E7869@ranteer.local>

thank you!  that is the kind of helpful answer I expect from the list :-)

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Shaw" <shaws at mlcltd.com>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 5:42 PM
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1.75" SU's

> APT. it is very effective.
> 
> On May 31, 2010, at 10:08 AM, oliver wrote:
> 
>> hi.
>>
>> i would like to put 1.75" SU's on my 73 mgb roadster.  does anyone  
>> know where i can get an intake manifold?
>>
>> thanks. _______________________________________________

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 31 21:20:47 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 22:20:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1.75" SU's
In-Reply-To: <9E3B7E68BD8F4DDEB1328182603E7869@ranteer.local>
References: <9806FB24-8B0C-4172-8A3D-058F8A55F1FE@tampabay.rr.com>
	<88358.18049.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<096CDA1F9AFB485A8042A32F0ED1CB6A@ranteer.local>
	<2BE2D571-A792-47DA-B50C-42573492610E@mlcltd.com>
	<9E3B7E68BD8F4DDEB1328182603E7869@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4C047C8F.9050701@justbrits.com>

<<thank you!  that is the kind of helpful answer I expect from the list>>

Must NOT have read the most CORRECT answers, huh ?