From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jun  1 02:09:52 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 09:09:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1.75" SU's
References: <9806FB24-8B0C-4172-8A3D-058F8A55F1FE@tampabay.rr.com><88358.18049.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com><096CDA1F9AFB485A8042A32F0ED1CB6A@ranteer.local><2BE2D571-A792-47DA-B50C-42573492610E@mlcltd.com><9E3B7E68BD8F4DDEB1328182603E7869@ranteer.local>
	<4C047C8F.9050701@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <7D1B773CF5084F099A72A3F62D576C29@paul>

Did, but NOT what he wanted to hear ...

----- Original Message ----- 

> <<thank you!  that is the kind of helpful answer I expect from the list>>
> 
> Must NOT have read the most CORRECT answers, huh ?

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Jun  1 12:42:56 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 13:42:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]
Message-ID: <4C0554B0.7050309@comcast.net>

"Most famous car," Bond's Aston Martin, for sale
2 hours ago
Must Read?Yes     2
Share|
Email Story
Discuss
Print

LONDON  James Bond's 1964 Aston Martin DB5, dubbed by auto auctioneers
RM Auctions on Tuesday as the "world's most famous car," will go under
the hammer in London in October and is expected to fetch over $5 million.

It is the first time the distinctive silver-colored car has been
available to the public to buy.

It is one of two, and the sole remaining, of the original "007" DB5s
that appeared on screen with Sean Connery behind the wheel in
"Goldfinger" and "Thunderball," RM Auctions said in a statement.

The model comes complete with its "Q-Branch" gadgets including machine
guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number plates, tracking device,
removable roof panel, oil slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke screen.

Several of the gadgets are fully operational, although the machine guns
are not real.

The car is being sold by U.S. radio broadcaster Jerry Lee, who convinced
the Aston Martin Lagonda factory to sell it for $12,000 in 1969,
becoming its first and only ex-factory owner.

It has remained in his possession and has rarely been seen publicly over
the past 40 or so years. Lee plans to use the proceeds from the sale for
the Jerry Lee Foundation.

It will be auctioned on October 27.

(Reporting by Mike Collett-White; Editing by Patricia Reaney)

-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 13:19:29 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 12:19:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]
In-Reply-To: <4C0554B0.7050309@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C82AAB51.29BA3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I remember having the Corgi model of this car (complete with operational
ejection seat), and I recall it being gold, not silver.

My recollection of the movie itself is much dimmer.
--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 6/1/10 11:42 AM, Glenn Schnittke at g.schnittke at comcast.net wrote:

> "Most famous car," Bond's Aston Martin, for sale
> 2 hours ago
> Must Read?Yes     2
> Share|
> Email Story
> Discuss
> Print
> 
> LONDON  James Bond's 1964 Aston Martin DB5, dubbed by auto auctioneers
> RM Auctions on Tuesday as the "world's most famous car," will go under
> the hammer in London in October and is expected to fetch over $5 million.
> 
> It is the first time the distinctive silver-colored car has been
> available to the public to buy.
> 
> It is one of two, and the sole remaining, of the original "007" DB5s
> that appeared on screen with Sean Connery behind the wheel in
> "Goldfinger" and "Thunderball," RM Auctions said in a statement.
> 
> The model comes complete with its "Q-Branch" gadgets including machine
> guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number plates, tracking device,
> removable roof panel, oil slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke screen.
> 
> Several of the gadgets are fully operational, although the machine guns
> are not real.
> 
> The car is being sold by U.S. radio broadcaster Jerry Lee, who convinced
> the Aston Martin Lagonda factory to sell it for $12,000 in 1969,
> becoming its first and only ex-factory owner.
> 
> It has remained in his possession and has rarely been seen publicly over
> the past 40 or so years. Lee plans to use the proceeds from the sale for
> the Jerry Lee Foundation.
> 
> It will be auctioned on October 27.
> 
> (Reporting by Mike Collett-White; Editing by Patricia Reaney)

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun  1 16:29:52 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 17:29:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]
In-Reply-To: <C82AAB51.29BA3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C82AAB51.29BA3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4C0589E0.4040603@justbrits.com>

<< ...not silver. >>

Nope Max, it was silver in the movie.

1 point about the car tho;  unless it was the "other" car I read in
the past year of two of the car being sold FROM a chap that had
"de-Bonded" it TO a chap that was going to restore it "to as
original in the movie" !?!?

Anybody else ??

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
(some MGA & MGB parts listed)

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Tue Jun  1 16:38:47 2010
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:38:47 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]
In-Reply-To: <C82AAB51.29BA3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C82AAB51.29BA3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <DD357DFC-1AD3-426F-B084-83073C6331AC@ghs.com.au>

There were in fact both Gold and Silver versions.  The original one
was Gold but later ones were silver......

Not that I am a collector of such things but I was made about Corgi
models when I was a kid and I had both....

Murray

On 02/06/2010, at 5:19 AM, Max Heim wrote:

> I remember having the Corgi model of this car (complete with
> operational
> ejection seat), and I recall it being gold, not silver.
>
> My recollection of the movie itself is much dimmer.
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>
> on 6/1/10 11:42 AM, Glenn Schnittke at g.schnittke at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> "Most famous car," Bond's Aston Martin, for sale
>> 2 hours ago
>> Must Read?Yes     2
>> Share|
>> Email Story
>> Discuss
>> Print
>>
>> LONDON  James Bond's 1964 Aston Martin DB5, dubbed by auto
>> auctioneers
>> RM Auctions on Tuesday as the "world's most famous car," will go
>> under
>> the hammer in London in October and is expected to fetch over $5
>> million.
>>
>> It is the first time the distinctive silver-colored car has been
>> available to the public to buy.
>>
>> It is one of two, and the sole remaining, of the original "007" DB5s
>> that appeared on screen with Sean Connery behind the wheel in
>> "Goldfinger" and "Thunderball," RM Auctions said in a statement.
>>
>> The model comes complete with its "Q-Branch" gadgets including
>> machine
>> guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number plates, tracking device,
>> removable roof panel, oil slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke
>> screen.
>>
>> Several of the gadgets are fully operational, although the machine
>> guns
>> are not real.
>>
>> The car is being sold by U.S. radio broadcaster Jerry Lee, who
>> convinced
>> the Aston Martin Lagonda factory to sell it for $12,000 in 1969,
>> becoming its first and only ex-factory owner.
>>
>> It has remained in his possession and has rarely been seen publicly
>> over
>> the past 40 or so years. Lee plans to use the proceeds from the
>> sale for
>> the Jerry Lee Foundation.
>>
>> It will be auctioned on October 27.
>>
>> (Reporting by Mike Collett-White; Editing by Patricia Reaney)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell at ghs.com.au

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 17:10:07 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 18:10:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]
In-Reply-To: <DD357DFC-1AD3-426F-B084-83073C6331AC@ghs.com.au>
References: <C82AAB51.29BA3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<DD357DFC-1AD3-426F-B084-83073C6331AC@ghs.com.au>
Message-ID: <6DE37A32F5E44695A66099ACCC92C95B@ranteer.local>

I still have a gold one, unfortunately well played with.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Murray Arundell" <arundell at ghs.com.au>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 5:38 PM
To: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]

> There were in fact both Gold and Silver versions.  The original one
> was Gold but later ones were silver......
>
> Not that I am a collector of such things but I was made about Corgi
> models when I was a kid and I had both....
>
> Murray
>
> On 02/06/2010, at 5:19 AM, Max Heim wrote:
>
>> I remember having the Corgi model of this car (complete with
>> operational
>> ejection seat), and I recall it being gold, not silver.
>>
>> My recollection of the movie itself is much dimmer.
>> --
>>
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>
>>
>>
>> on 6/1/10 11:42 AM, Glenn Schnittke at g.schnittke at comcast.net wrote:
>>
>>> "Most famous car," Bond's Aston Martin, for sale
>>> 2 hours ago
>>> Must Read?Yes     2
>>> Share|
>>> Email Story
>>> Discuss
>>> Print
>>>
>>> LONDON  James Bond's 1964 Aston Martin DB5, dubbed by auto
>>> auctioneers
>>> RM Auctions on Tuesday as the "world's most famous car," will go
>>> under
>>> the hammer in London in October and is expected to fetch over $5
>>> million.
>>>
>>> It is the first time the distinctive silver-colored car has been
>>> available to the public to buy.
>>>
>>> It is one of two, and the sole remaining, of the original "007" DB5s
>>> that appeared on screen with Sean Connery behind the wheel in
>>> "Goldfinger" and "Thunderball," RM Auctions said in a statement.
>>>
>>> The model comes complete with its "Q-Branch" gadgets including
>>> machine
>>> guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number plates, tracking device,
>>> removable roof panel, oil slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke
>>> screen.
>>>
>>> Several of the gadgets are fully operational, although the machine
>>> guns
>>> are not real.
>>>
>>> The car is being sold by U.S. radio broadcaster Jerry Lee, who
>>> convinced
>>> the Aston Martin Lagonda factory to sell it for $12,000 in 1969,
>>> becoming its first and only ex-factory owner.
>>>
>>> It has remained in his possession and has rarely been seen publicly
>>> over
>>> the past 40 or so years. Lee plans to use the proceeds from the
>>> sale for
>>> the Jerry Lee Foundation.
>>>
>>> It will be auctioned on October 27.
>>>
>>> (Reporting by Mike Collett-White; Editing by Patricia Reaney)

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Wed Jun  2 01:58:52 2010
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:58:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]
In-Reply-To: <6DE37A32F5E44695A66099ACCC92C95B@ranteer.local>
References: <C82AAB51.29BA3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<DD357DFC-1AD3-426F-B084-83073C6331AC@ghs.com.au>
	<6DE37A32F5E44695A66099ACCC92C95B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikcyVgH73swm8t5jNLHzPTurdNTmsjs9NwHgUoB@mail.gmail.com>

On 2 June 2010 00:10, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I still have a gold one, unfortunately well played with.
>
> Unfortunately?  That's the way it should be!  Just like your MG should be
well driven.

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From mjanacek at snet.net  Wed Jun  2 02:27:36 2010
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 04:27:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Some investment...]
In-Reply-To: <4C0554B0.7050309@comcast.net>
References: <4C0554B0.7050309@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C0615F8.5090304@snet.net>

Hmmm, I wonder if this is the same one I saw at the 1964 New York Worlds 
Fair.
Sounds like it as the one I saw had inoperable machine guns also.
Mike

Glenn Schnittke wrote:
> "Most famous car," Bond's Aston Martin, for sale
> 2 hours ago
> Must Read?Yes     2
> Share|
> Email Story
> Discuss
> Print
>
> LONDON  James Bond's 1964 Aston Martin DB5, dubbed by auto auctioneers
> RM Auctions on Tuesday as the "world's most famous car," will go under
> the hammer in London in October and is expected to fetch over $5 million.
>
> It is the first time the distinctive silver-colored car has been
> available to the public to buy.
>
> It is one of two, and the sole remaining, of the original "007" DB5s
> that appeared on screen with Sean Connery behind the wheel in
> "Goldfinger" and "Thunderball," RM Auctions said in a statement.
>
> The model comes complete with its "Q-Branch" gadgets including machine
> guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number plates, tracking device,
> removable roof panel, oil slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke screen.
>
> Several of the gadgets are fully operational, although the machine guns
> are not real.
>
> The car is being sold by U.S. radio broadcaster Jerry Lee, who convinced
> the Aston Martin Lagonda factory to sell it for $12,000 in 1969,
> becoming its first and only ex-factory owner.
>
> It has remained in his possession and has rarely been seen publicly over
> the past 40 or so years. Lee plans to use the proceeds from the sale for
> the Jerry Lee Foundation.
>
> It will be auctioned on October 27.
>
> (Reporting by Mike Collett-White; Editing by Patricia Reaney)

From awhitema at panix.com  Wed Jun  2 08:10:11 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 07:10:11 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
Message-ID: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>

Yesterday, while re-installing my engine, the chain broke.  Fortunately, it
was in a position where no serious harm was done to the engine, the car, or
me.

Don't mess around with those things, or you might get to experience the same
slo-mo ('nooooooo!') experience as I.

--
Aaron

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  2 08:51:06 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 07:51:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
Message-ID: <264498.98541.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Oh boy, scary stuff.... Did a link actually break or just separate? I have used straps in the past and have
found that an effective way to support the engine and trans.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>
To: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, June 2, 2010 10:10:11 AM
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains

Yesterday, while re-installing my engine, the chain broke.  Fortunately, it
was in a position where no serious harm was done to the engine, the car, or
me.

Don't mess around with those things, or you might get to experience the same
slo-mo ('nooooooo!') experience as I.

--
Aaron
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From awhitema at panix.com  Wed Jun  2 09:12:58 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 11:12:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <264498.98541.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
	<264498.98541.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com>

On Wed, 2 Jun 2010, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Oh boy, scary stuff.... Did a link actually break or just separate?
> I have used straps in the past and have found that an effective way
> to support the engine and trans.

A link broke.  That half-second got the adrenaline running, I can
assure you.  I'll be getting some straps before the next time I do
this, which hopefully won't be any time soon.

Fortunately, the transplanted engine seems to be a success--it runs
smoother and quieter, even before I get it properly tuned.  It also
develops oil pressure on the starter, which is reassuring.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman
Pullman, Washington

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  2 09:36:38 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:36:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com>
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
	<264498.98541.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com>
Message-ID: <211070.8881.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Yeah, I can imagine that underwear was tossed out!

Did you do a rebuild or put a 'new' engine in?

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Cc: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, June 2, 2010 11:12:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] watch your chains

On Wed, 2 Jun 2010, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Oh boy, scary stuff.... Did a link actually break or just separate?
> I have used straps in the past and have found that an effective way
> to support the engine and trans.

A link broke.  That half-second got the adrenaline running, I can
assure you.  I'll be getting some straps before the next time I do
this, which hopefully won't be any time soon.

Fortunately, the transplanted engine seems to be a success--it runs
smoother and quieter, even before I get it properly tuned.  It also
develops oil pressure on the starter, which is reassuring.

-- Aaron Whiteman
Pullman, Washington

From awhitema at panix.com  Wed Jun  2 09:56:02 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 11:56:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <211070.8881.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
	<264498.98541.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com>
	<211070.8881.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021138550.29011@panix1.panix.com>

On Wed, 2 Jun 2010, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Yeah, I can imagine that underwear was tossed out!

Surprisingly, beyond a few choice words, I was ok.  My hands ache this
morning, but that's as much from turning wrenches as the little
contact they got as a lump of cast iron went past.

> Did you do a rebuild or put a 'new' engine in?

Before I got my MG, I drove my dad's 78.  When he got that car in the
late 80s or early 90s, it was approaching rebuild time.  I helped our
neighbor (a mechanic) rebuild it some time around 92, it's had maybe
20K miles since then.

Unfortunately, the '78 MG rusted around the good motor, so for the
past 5-6 years, the motor has beens started and run a bit a few times
a year, but nothing more than that.

This motor is supposed to be my bridge, giving me a good reliable
engine while I rebuild the original to be super-charged over time as
funds allow.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman
Pullman, Washington

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  2 10:12:32 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 09:12:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com>
Message-ID: <864981.91437.qm@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

It may go without saying, but always use proof coil
chain for lifting anything that you can't catch if
it falls.

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Jun  2 10:29:31 2010
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 12:29:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
Message-ID: <0L3E007V8B55C940@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

How about a little more analysis of how this could have been 
prevented?  Looking at the chain, can you see any defects that an 
inspection could have caught before using it?  Was the chain heavy 
enough for the job?  How old was it?  I appreciate the "don't let 
this happen to you" warning, but I'm not sure how I would go about 
doing that.  Glad it wasn't too big of a disaster in your case.  Thanks.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 10:10 AM 6/2/2010, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
>Yesterday, while re-installing my engine, the chain broke.

From awhitema at panix.com  Wed Jun  2 10:36:59 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 12:36:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <0L3E007V8B55C940@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
	<0L3E007V8B55C940@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021232290.7141@panix1.panix.com>

On Wed, 2 Jun 2010, Steven Trovato wrote:

> How about a little more analysis of how this could have been prevented? 
> Looking at the chain, can you see any defects that an inspection could have 
> caught before using it?  Was the chain heavy enough for the job?  How old was

Quite simply, wrong tool for the job.  It was too light.  I used it
anyway for the sake of expediency (it was what I had), but shouldn't
have.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman
Pullman, Washington

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun  2 10:38:28 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 09:38:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <864981.91437.qm@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C82BD714.29C10%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

OK, I'll bite -- what is "proof coil chain"?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 6/2/10 9:12 AM, David Breneman at david_breneman at yahoo.com wrote:

> It may go without saying, but always use proof coil
> chain for lifting anything that you can't catch if
> it falls.
> 
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Jun  2 10:44:06 2010
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 12:44:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <864981.91437.qm@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com>
	<864981.91437.qm@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0L3E00BADBTVYDL0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Never heard that term, so I looked it up:

PROOF COIL, known also as Common Coil chain, is the standard 
commercial quality regularly stocked by hardware and industrial 
supply houses.  It is a general purpose chain for pulling or 
restraining applications requiring neither a maximum of tensile nor 
impact strength.  It is commonly used for log chains and towing.

So I guess it really isn't anything special.  I think the most 
important thing is to make sure that the chain is rated for well more 
than the intended load.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 12:12 PM 6/2/2010, David Breneman wrote:
>It may go without saying, but always use proof coil
>chain for lifting anything that you can't catch if
>it falls.
>
>David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  2 11:36:47 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 10:36:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <C82BD714.29C10%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <885450.91745.qm@web112113.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Wed, 6/2/10, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> OK, I'll bite -- what is "proof coil
> chain"?

Chain that is certified for "overhead lifting" and is
rated by lift capacity.  Any decent hardware store
should have it.

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Wed Jun  2 21:51:57 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 22:51:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
Message-ID: <4C0726DD.9000402@comcast.net>

I guess I should start this with my credentials. I have been a 
theatrical rigger for 20 years and presently make my living designing 
and installing rigging systems in theaters and other entertainment venues.

Both of the above descriptions of 'proof coil' are correct. Home Depot 
and Lowe's both carry it. So does Ace and many other local hardware 
stores. The only other thing that I would mention is that any chain made 
in the US or other 'industrialized' nation (UK, Denmark, Oz, etc.) will 
or should have a load rating attached. That load rating is the end 
result of a design factor (5:1) that basically takes the breaking point 
or deformation point (depends on the manufacturer) and divides by five 
for a load rating. Simply put, the working load rating is one fifth of 
the load that will break the chain (or other device). If the chain 
breaks at 5,000 lbs., then they give it a working load rating of 1,000 
lbs. Basic rule is, if you don't know that the maker is of good repute, 
then take the stated working load and divide by five and that's what it 
will safely hold. Sure, I've bought Chinese equipment, but I always 
derate it by a factor of five. You can't sue China.

The other very important thing to remember is that the chain is only as 
strong as its weakest link. If you've got the best chain in the world 
and you're attaching it to something with an old bolt that you pulled 
out of your bin, then the load rating on the chain means absolutely 
nothing. A lifting system is as integrated as an electrical system. They 
  put fuses in electrical systems in order to protect the system by 
being the weakest link. Lifting systems generally don't have fuses 
unless they're motorized. They just have a weakest link. Make sure *ALL* 
of the connections in your lift are equal to the job. New, grade 3 or 
better bolts are always recommended when doing any overhead lifting.

Be safe,

Glenn


> Subject: Re: [Mgs] watch your chains
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <885450.91745.qm at web112113.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> --- On Wed, 6/2/10, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
>> > OK, I'll bite -- what is "proof coil
>> > chain"?
> 
> Chain that is certified for "overhead lifting" and is
> rated by lift capacity.  Any decent hardware store
> should have it.

-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From riverside at southslope.net  Wed Jun  2 22:52:09 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 23:52:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
Message-ID: <009601cb02d8$866d90b0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Aaron, I am happy to hear that there was no real harm done and all is ok.
I  had an experiance with an engine lift when I was in my mid teens. (story 
follows,
you can delete now)  Backyard, hoist on a stout limb in the shadetree, 
engine swap in
a `58 Edsel, a very heavy V-8 engine.  The car owner and I sitting on the 
fenders
while my older brother and another freind were under the car giving 
instructions  as we
moved the engine about and they tried to align the automatic transmission. 
It was a
difficult installation and did not want to line-up. After several tries and 
many minutes
had passed, we thought we would never get it in place.  The chain holding 
the
engine broke and the engine fell with a solid thunk!!!   Instead of the 
yells of pain
that I expected,  from under the car came ..." HOLD IT right there,
thats perfect !"
  We didn't tell them about the broken chain until they had finished and 
crawled out
from under the car.
   Since then I have always made sure that my lifting equipment was  proper 
with
a good safety factor.  I still think of the injuries that could have 
happened.
 I haven't dropped  a lift since.   Well... there was that Spitfire that 
went
nose first off of the hoist....but that is another story.

Ron Sanborn
Swisher, Iowa
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema at panix.com>
To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 9:10 AM
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains


> Yesterday, while re-installing my engine, the chain broke.  Fortunately, 
> it
> was in a position where no serious harm was done to the engine, the car, 
> or
> me.
>
> Don't mess around with those things, or you might get to experience the 
> same
> slo-mo ('nooooooo!') experience as I.
>
> --
> Aaron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun  3 01:58:36 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 08:58:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
References: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com><864981.91437.qm@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<0L3E00BADBTVYDL0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <914FAC8DBC5041179D3765F718EEE5A7@paul>

Surely this type of chain is *not* suitable for lifting?  From the name 
'proof coil' I imagined samples had been tested by a proof test house and 
warranted to carry a certain load.

As far as examination goes it's why straps or even ropes are better than 
chains for home use.  I realise chains are used commercially but then they 
are periodically tested.  A chain only needs one weak link to fail suddenly 
and totally, a rope or strap has very many fibres or strands and many can 
break before it becomes unsafe, and are easy to spot.  It's why 
lifts/elevators use multiple stranded wire cables, at the safety inspections 
a sample length is measured off and the number of broken strands counted. 
When they reach a certain number the cable is replaced (next time you are in 
one imagine all those broken strands above you ...).

----- Original Message ----- 
> PROOF COIL, known also as Common Coil chain, is the standard
> commercial quality regularly stocked by hardware and industrial
> supply houses.  It is a general purpose chain for pulling or
> restraining applications requiring neither a maximum of tensile nor
> impact strength.  It is commonly used for log chains and towing.
>
> So I guess it really isn't anything special. 

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jun  3 11:39:41 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 12:39:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <009601cb02d8$866d90b0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
References: <42A267B1-0C75-48AF-9BA4-297BBAEE627A@panix.com>
	<009601cb02d8$866d90b0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <4C07E8DD.3000008@justbrits.com>

Ron, you simply canNOT just "toss out"....

<<Well... there was that Spitfire that went
nose first off of the hoist....but that is another story. >>

and leave us HANGING !?!?!?!

"I say old chap, bad form !!" !?!      -:) -:)
*
**Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]*

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Thu Jun  3 19:49:04 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 20:49:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
Message-ID: <4C085B90.2050508@comcast.net>

Actually, Paul, that is exactly what happens. BUT ONLY IF THE COUNTRY OF 
ORIGIN REQUIRES IT!

I hate to shout, but this can't be stressed too much. I also don't like 
singling out a particular country, but some countries do  not require 
the same testing that other countries do. I am trying hard to be vague 
and specific at the same time here. I am also giving some guidelines on 
how to deal with contingencies without facing the threat I face every 
day of being sued for failure to inform correctly...

Chain is fine for heavy lifting. THE CORRECT CHAIN IS EQUAL TO THE 
CORRECT LOAD. As an end user it is your responsibility to make sure you 
are using the product within that product's limits. The average home 
user is not qualified to know when a piece of rope or webbing has enough 
broken strands to disqualify it for use. On top of that there's the 
question of knots. There are few knots that come close to 75% of the 
strength of the rope. Are you going to advise people to use rope with no 
knowledge of how to tie it? You do know that by putting a knot in rope 
you can degrade the lifting capacity of that rope by 50% don't you?

I'm not an elevator engineer (though I've built a few orchestra pit 
lifts). I'm a theatrical engineer. My guess is that they use wire rope 
because it's MUCH quieter than chain. (Quiet equals confidence. Any 
elevator engineers out there?). I can only vouch for my own area of 
expertise. Whenever a piece of rigging gear is sent up to hang in the 
air on a theatrical or concert event, every inch of the equipment is 
inspected before it goes up and subject to rejection if a single strand 
of wire rope is broken or a shackle doesn't work like it's supposed to.

Back to the original discussion, chain is the stuff for lifting engines, 
DEPENDING ON YOUR SITUATION, but you need to make sure you have the 
chain equal to the job and all the other parts of the system are 
sufficient. Our original poster obviously didn't have the right stuff. I 
have full confidence he will next time around.


> From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] watch your chains
> To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <914FAC8DBC5041179D3765F718EEE5A7 at paul>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> Surely this type of chain is *not* suitable for lifting?  From the name 
> 'proof coil' I imagined samples had been tested by a proof test house and 
> warranted to carry a certain load.


-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  3 21:36:20 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 20:36:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <4C085B90.2050508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <475155.6639.qm@web112115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Thu, 6/3/10, Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke at comcast.net> wrote:

> Actually, Paul, that is exactly what
> happens. BUT ONLY IF THE COUNTRY OF ORIGIN REQUIRES IT!

Even more serious than the problem of counterfeit chain
is counterfeit case-hardened bolts.  Phony Grade-8s have
been pouring out of "countries of dubious responsibility"
for over two decades.  Some radio towers and other
structures have actually failed because of this.  If
you are in the market for case-hardened fasteners, know
the logos of the manufacturers and only accept those
with a pedigree.  When I worked for Tacoma Screw Products,
we bought only NOS from US manufacturers, or from Frasier
Fasteners in Vancouver, BC.  Lives, property, and really
expensive lawsuits hung in the balance.  Industrial
counterfeiting is a big, big problem.

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Fri Jun  4 09:25:05 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 11:25:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch & whatnot
Message-ID: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>

Listers,

I'm getting ready to R & R the clutch on my '73 midget.  Does anyone have an
opinion as to whether it's easier or better to remove just the engine, or the
engine & gearbox together.  My initial thought was that pulling the two
together would be easier - mainly because access to the mounting hardware
would be easier.  (I have a grease pit, and can easily get at the transmission
mount bolts & propeller shaft.)



My second thought is that removing the engine alone might mean more blind
wrench turning in hard to reach places (and maybe not) but the actual
extraction and replacement would be easier.   And since I have the grease pit,
swapping out the slave cylinder & throwout bearing with the transmission in
situ shouldn't be too difficult.



Your thoughts?



-Mike Eldred

Wilmington, VT

'73 Midget

'54 MG TF

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Jun  4 10:12:45 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 01:42:45 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch & whatnot
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8A464FC4-2EEC-4434-BE82-A4C6EE19D77A@erickson.on.net>

On 05/06/2010, at 12:55 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to R & R the clutch on my '73 midget.  Does anyone have
an
> opinion as to whether it's easier or better to remove just the engine, or
the
> engine & gearbox together.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun  4 10:26:46 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 09:26:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch & whatnot
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C82E7756.29CB0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Personally, I don't like trying to weasel the engine and spline shaft into
the clutch with the tranny in the car. You can't see what you're doing, and
your movements are highly constrained in every direction. Too much risk of
binding, misalignment, and damage.

That said, I know lots of people have done it, claiming it "slips right in".
That's nice, until it doesn't.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 6/4/10 8:25 AM, Mike Eldred at redscirocco at hotmail.com wrote:

> Listers,
> 
> I'm getting ready to R & R the clutch on my '73 midget.  Does anyone have an
> opinion as to whether it's easier or better to remove just the engine, or the
> engine & gearbox together.  My initial thought was that pulling the two
> together would be easier - mainly because access to the mounting hardware
> would be easier.  (I have a grease pit, and can easily get at the transmission
> mount bolts & propeller shaft.)
> 
> 
> 
> My second thought is that removing the engine alone might mean more blind
> wrench turning in hard to reach places (and maybe not) but the actual
> extraction and replacement would be easier.   And since I have the grease pit,
> swapping out the slave cylinder & throwout bearing with the transmission in
> situ shouldn't be too difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> Your thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> -Mike Eldred
> 
> Wilmington, VT
> 
> '73 Midget
> 
> '54 MG TF

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Jun  4 11:29:52 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 02:59:52 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch & whatnot
In-Reply-To: <8A464FC4-2EEC-4434-BE82-A4C6EE19D77A@erickson.on.net>
References: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>
	<8A464FC4-2EEC-4434-BE82-A4C6EE19D77A@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <CE91F7B9-3F0D-45F0-99D0-213A0F5B3EC0@erickson.on.net>

Hmmmmmm,   I am not shooting blanks.  I just looked in my sent folder and I
clearly did mail:

On 05/06/2010, at 12:55 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to R & R the clutch on my '73 midget.  Does anyone have
an
> opinion as to whether it's easier or better to remove just the engine, or
the
> engine & gearbox together.


Together.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Jun  4 16:32:36 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 15:32:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch & whatnot
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikqkxcXlrhocIKh4rE5nPUzVdH5IGKi51u3UkWe@mail.gmail.com>

I've done it both ways more times than I care to think about.
Trans is easier to mate to the engine out of the car, but the assembly is
harder to reinstall.  You need a cherry picker that goes real high if you do
it this way.
Mating the engine to the trans in the car is not that much trouble if you
have a couple of things
1. A pre-moulded clutch alignment tool
2. a jack to put under the bell housing to bring the bell housing up.
If you have both of these mating the engine to trans is not very hard in the
car.
Also on a Midget, the bolts are a little tight around the bell housing but
doable.  However back when I did these regularly I was a bunch of years
younger and more flexible than I am now, so if bending double is a real
bitch do the engine and trans together.
You also don't need to lift the engine as high to get just the engine in.
$.02
Rick

On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 8:25 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I'm getting ready to R & R the clutch on my '73 midget.  Does anyone have
> an
> opinion as to whether it's easier or better to remove just the engine, or
> the
> engine & gearbox together.  My initial thought was that pulling the two
> together would be easier - mainly because access to the mounting hardware
> would be easier.  (I have a grease pit, and can easily get at the
> transmission
> mount bolts & propeller shaft.)
>
>
>
> My second thought is that removing the engine alone might mean more blind
> wrench turning in hard to reach places (and maybe not) but the actual
> extraction and replacement would be easier.   And since I have the grease
> pit,
> swapping out the slave cylinder & throwout bearing with the transmission in
> situ shouldn't be too difficult.
>
>
>
> Your thoughts?
>
>
>
> -Mike Eldred
>
> Wilmington, VT
>
> '73 Midget
>
> '54 MG TF
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
> inbox.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Jun  5 07:24:07 2010
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 08:24:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <914FAC8DBC5041179D3765F718EEE5A7@paul>
References: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com><864981.91437.qm@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<0L3E00BADBTVYDL0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<914FAC8DBC5041179D3765F718EEE5A7@paul>
Message-ID: <4C0A4FF7.8010302@ktc.com>

I've always used chains to pull/install engines, etc.  My original 
setuup was an A-frame and chain falls.   Later on I bought a knock-down 
engine hoist of the cherry picker type and short to medium length chains 
to suit the job.  My approach on chains has always been to select chains 
of at least twice the weight-carrying  capacity of whatever I intended 
to lift.  Never had one break.

BTW, anyone want to buy a hoist?  My engine pulling days are over. :-(

CR

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun  5 07:56:00 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 08:56:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] TMGR event today???
In-Reply-To: <1237921390.49c92e6ec4ff8@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <A33AFD811F7049FDBE465FF2309EBAE7@Three><9f2527520903240755o5fc402e4nf9c8c1374da5ec0f@mail.gmail.com><2DA53E53178E40959D36590D2F6D3DA9@Three>
	<1237921390.49c92e6ec4ff8@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <7C605DE7661B412D89DA02CF7087256A@ranteer.local>

sorry to take up the bandwidth; I seem to think that the TMGR natter is 
today at Keller's down on northwest highway at 1:00????

I don't see it in the events calendar.

am I mistaken?

thanks.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 10:02:04 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 09:02:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <4C0A4FF7.8010302@ktc.com>
References: <alpine.NEB.2.00.1006021107180.17642@panix1.panix.com>
	<864981.91437.qm@web112101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<0L3E00BADBTVYDL0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<914FAC8DBC5041179D3765F718EEE5A7@paul> <4C0A4FF7.8010302@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimJaGBkQE7pa5cw_Vsm5LbfFpAEEIB7-FOGJn9t@mail.gmail.com>

Probably 90% plus of the engines pulled in commercial shops are done with
some type of chain.  Either a chain hoist, or short pieces of chain to
connect to the engine.  The remaining one are most likely pulled with model
specific tools that are solid steel and hook directly to a cherry picker.
Rope and wire rope have some inherent problems.  First off is attaching them
to the engine.  It a little tough to run a bolt though a piece of rope.
:-)  Secondly knots weaken the overall strength.   Thirdly rope can slip.  I
have no idea how you would attach wire rope to an engine.  I know my
company's safety engineer would blow a gasket if they saw an engine being
pulled via a rope.
$.02

Rick

Charlie, where is said hoist?  I might be in the market if it is nearby.
R

On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 6:24 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson
<ccrobins at ktc.com>wrote:

> I've always used chains to pull/install engines, etc.  My original setuup
> was an A-frame and chain falls.   Later on I bought a knock-down engine
> hoist of the cherry picker type and short to medium length chains to suit
> the job.  My approach on chains has always been to select chains of at least
> twice the weight-carrying  capacity of whatever I intended to lift.  Never
> had one break.
>
> BTW, anyone want to buy a hoist?  My engine pulling days are over. :-(
>
> CR
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 15:57:01 2010
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 17:57:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] tires
Message-ID: <4c0ac82c.0534e50a.32bc.5b9f@mx.google.com>

I put new tires on my MGB today.  After searching the archives I concluded
that I should buy 175-70 R14's (Michelin) to replace the 185-70 R14's which
I bought nine years ago.  The 175's look much better on the car and, based
on a short test drive, seem to make the car feel a bit more stable at speed.

Hope others will find this helpful.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sat Jun  5 16:49:23 2010
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 15:49:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Chrome
Message-ID: <F447D6D4056D4B54B4D8D760265D2963@XPS400>

I am trying to restore a grill for my BN7.  The chrome is in fairly good
condition but dull and with some very small pitting.  I am wondering what
products others have used to polish old chrome, other than the usual chrome
polishes sold at every auto parts store.

Is it possible to buff out the chrome using a very mild buffing compound on a
power wheel?  Or will that just take off the chrome?

Thanks for any opinions.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Jun  5 17:37:07 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 18:37:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
Message-ID: <4C0ADFA3.8000107@comcast.net>

Have to agree there. I don't think I've seen anyone but myself pull an 
engine with rope. I'm sure others do it. I've got a few tricks and some 
very specific knots to make sure nothing slips. I'm also not pulling XK 
blocks out with rope. I finally bought an Olberg Tilt-lift and won't use 
anything else now. And Charles' suggestion of doubling the rating is wise.

Glenn


> Subject: Re: [Mgs] watch your chains
> To: ccrobins at ktc.com
> Cc: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> 	<AANLkTimJaGBkQE7pa5cw_Vsm5LbfFpAEEIB7-FOGJn9t at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Probably 90% plus of the engines pulled in commercial shops are done with
> some type of chain.  Either a chain hoist, or short pieces of chain to
> connect to the engine.  The remaining one are most likely pulled with model
> specific tools that are solid steel and hook directly to a cherry picker.
> Rope and wire rope have some inherent problems.  First off is attaching them
> to the engine.  It a little tough to run a bolt though a piece of rope.
> :-)  Secondly knots weaken the overall strength.   Thirdly rope can slip.  I
> have no idea how you would attach wire rope to an engine.  I know my
> company's safety engineer would blow a gasket if they saw an engine being
> pulled via a rope.


-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun  5 18:19:14 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 17:19:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] tires
In-Reply-To: <4c0ac82c.0534e50a.32bc.5b9f@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <C8303792.29D19%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

After considering the alternatives (crappy, old-technology, hard-to-find
tires in the original size, or too-wide, too-low modern tires), I arrived at
the same conclusion. I went with a Sumitomo HTR200, a high-performance
summer tire, which I have to say is by far the grippiest tire I have ever
had on the car. 185 is definitely too wide for 4.5" wire wheels.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 6/5/10 2:57 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss at gmail.com wrote:

> I put new tires on my MGB today.  After searching the archives I concluded
> that I should buy 175-70 R14's (Michelin) to replace the 185-70 R14's which
> I bought nine years ago.  The 175's look much better on the car and, based
> on a short test drive, seem to make the car feel a bit more stable at speed.
> 
> Hope others will find this helpful.
> 
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun  5 18:21:31 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 17:21:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Chrome
In-Reply-To: <F447D6D4056D4B54B4D8D760265D2963@XPS400>
Message-ID: <C830381B.29D1A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Real chrome is thick and tough compared to paint, so I don't think you would
burn through it. Leaving scratches is what I would worry about. I'm sure
there is a system designed for just this.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 6/5/10 3:49 PM, Ron Fine at RonFineEsq at earthlink.net wrote:

> I am trying to restore a grill for my BN7.  The chrome is in fairly good
> condition but dull and with some very small pitting.  I am wondering what
> products others have used to polish old chrome, other than the usual chrome
> polishes sold at every auto parts store.
> 
> Is it possible to buff out the chrome using a very mild buffing compound on a
> power wheel?  Or will that just take off the chrome?
> 
> Thanks for any opinions.
> 
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
> 66 MGB

From runner01 at wowway.com  Sun Jun  6 06:25:10 2010
From: runner01 at wowway.com (Ray Graham)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 07:25:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Test Pipe
Message-ID: <6EF484D55E7D4D3989B631C10CADD3A6@AcerPC>

Listers,
I am considering replacing my catalytic converter on my 1980 MGB  with a
test pipe to make sure the converter is working properly.  Downsides?  Where
can I get one.

Thanks,
Ray

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  6 08:23:41 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 07:23:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Test Pipe
In-Reply-To: <6EF484D55E7D4D3989B631C10CADD3A6@AcerPC>
References: <6EF484D55E7D4D3989B631C10CADD3A6@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <413543.84848.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ray, I believe that Victoria British used to have them listed. But you could also just replace your downpipe with one from a 
'75 B, which used the Z-S carb but had no catcon (outside of Kalifornia). That's what I did when I replaced my '76 B's engine
with one from a '75. They are available from Moss and their resellers.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Ray Graham <runner01 at wowway.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, June 6, 2010 8:25:10 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Test Pipe

Listers,
I am considering replacing my catalytic converter on my 1980 MGB  with a
test pipe to make sure the converter is working properly.  Downsides?  Where
can I get one.

Thanks,
Ray
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Jun  6 18:43:06 2010
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 00:43:06 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
Message-ID: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>

  Using rope is easier than it sounds.
  You simply select the rope of needed strength for the task plus allowance
for wear&tear, age, etc, then splice it into a loop.  Make two of them. Then
pass the loops around the engine to make slings and put the loop onto the lift
hook.
  This is not often seen, but if you look at old movies of cargo handling on
the waterfront, that's how cargo was loaded and unloaded from ships. We did it
when I was in the navy. It's quite secure and easy to do.
  For the MGB engine, one would pass the the front rope under the crankshaft
pulley and onto the hook. Rear would go around bell housing and to the hook.
As I type this, it really does sound difficult, but it's not, and it works a
treat.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: ccrobins at ktc.com
Cc: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] watch your chains
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 09:02:04 -0700

Probably 90% plus of the engines pulled in commercial shops are done with
some type of chain.  Either a chain hoist, or short pieces of chain to
connect to the engine.  The remaining one are most likely pulled with model
specific tools that are solid steel and hook directly to a cherry picker.
Rope and wire rope have some inherent problems.  First off is attaching them
to the engine.  It a little tough to run a bolt though a piece of rope.
:-)  Secondly knots weaken the overall strength.   Thirdly rope can slip.  I
have no idea how you would attach wire rope to an engine.  I know my
company's safety engineer would blow a gasket if they saw an engine being
pulled via a rope.
$.02

Rick

Charlie, where is said hoist?  I might be in the market if it is nearby.
R

On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 6:24 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson
<ccrobins at ktc.com>wrote:

> I've always used chains to pull/install engines, etc.  My original setuup
> was an A-frame and chain falls.   Later on I bought a knock-down engine
> hoist of the cherry picker type and short to medium length chains to suit
> the job.  My approach on chains has always been to select chains of at
least
> twice the weight-carrying  capacity of whatever I intended to lift.  Never
> had one break.
>
> BTW, anyone want to buy a hoist?  My engine pulling days are over. :-(
>
> CR
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Jun  6 18:55:10 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 17:55:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <D12B408A-A0D9-408B-9F1C-AC73AD359211@gmail.com>

Until you need to change the angle of the dangle so you get the trans  
down the tunnel or mate the engine/clutch.
I would also note that back in the day unloading cargo ships was one  
of the more dangerous occupations.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  6 20:05:05 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 19:05:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <853797.94810.qm@web112103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sun, 6/6/10, mgbob at juno.com <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

>   This is not
often seen, but if you look at old
> movies of cargo handling on
> the
waterfront, that's how cargo was loaded and unloaded
> from ships. We did it
>
when I was in the navy. It's quite secure and easy to do.

[Please don't take
this as unfriendly, I'm just making a
point enthusiastically...}


I have a
friend who's a stevedore.  He's been working at
the Port of Tacoma (one of the
busiest ports on the eastern
edge of the Pacific Rim) for decades.  Next time
I see him,
I'll ask him how much freight they lift off of container
ships with
ropes.  :-)

I'm not trying to be sarcastic (well, maybe just a little),
but
there's a difference between doing what's expedient and
what's safe.  People
leave themselves open to all kinds of
dangers in the military that aren't
accepted in everyday
life, and I'm second to no one in my respect and
admiration
for you for serving your country in such a selfless way.
In WWII,
my dad learned how to fly plywood gliders for
the invasion of Japan.  If I was
planning a trip to Tokyo
today, I would not book passage on a plywood glider.
Same kind of thing.

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Sun Jun  6 20:49:46 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 22:49:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch & Whatnot
Message-ID: <SNT124-W35108396B78D1C7CC74B45B7D50@phx.gbl>

Thanks to all who replied to my question about pulling the engine, or engine &
transmission, in my '73 Midget.



Thanks to your advice, I have decided to pull the two together.  There are so
many goofy things done (and not done) by the DPO, it's probably better that I
get the whole thing out and have a good look at it anyway.



I'll let you know how it goes.



-Mike Eldred

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Sun Jun  6 21:02:35 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 23:02:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <853797.94810.qm@web112103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>,
	<853797.94810.qm@web112103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W161593D5F160F803A6BEB6B7D50@phx.gbl>

<<<People leave themselves open to all kinds of dangers in the military that
aren't accepted in everyday life,>>>

In some respects, that may be true.  But in my 11+ years in the Army, I can
honestly say that safety was always the top priority, and never second to
expediency - particularly when it came to any equipment or routine operations.
The people who buy $800 hammers don't skimp on equipment for cargo
operations.





> Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 19:05:05 -0700
> From: david_breneman at yahoo.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] watch your chains
>
> --- On Sun, 6/6/10, mgbob at juno.com <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
>
> > This is not
> often seen, but if you look at old
> > movies of cargo handling on
> > the
> waterfront, that's how cargo was loaded and unloaded
> > from ships. We did it
> >
> when I was in the navy. It's quite secure and easy to do.
>
> [Please don't take
> this as unfriendly, I'm just making a
> point enthusiastically...}
>
>
> I have a
> friend who's a stevedore. He's been working at
> the Port of Tacoma (one of the
> busiest ports on the eastern
> edge of the Pacific Rim) for decades. Next time
> I see him,
> I'll ask him how much freight they lift off of container
> ships with
> ropes. :-)
>
> I'm not trying to be sarcastic (well, maybe just a little),
> but
> there's a difference between doing what's expedient and
> what's safe. People
> leave themselves open to all kinds of
> dangers in the military that aren't
> accepted in everyday
> life, and I'm second to no one in my respect and
> admiration
> for you for serving your country in such a selfless way.
> In WWII,
> my dad learned how to fly plywood gliders for
> the invasion of Japan. If I was
> planning a trip to Tokyo
> today, I would not book passage on a plywood glider.
> Same kind of thing.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com

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:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun  7 09:12:39 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 16:12:39 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch & whatnot
References: <SNT124-W33CC6835D15C9A67795B6AB7D20@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikqkxcXlrhocIKh4rE5nPUzVdH5IGKi51u3UkWe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F631A70EFAB945F7A593614D5FEA398F@paul>

1. is needed in any event, it aligns the friction plate correctly while you 
are fitting the cover plate.  Get the alignment wrong and the engine and 
gearbox won't go back together, regardless of whether the gearbox is in or 
out.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Mating the engine to the trans in the car is not that much trouble if you
> have a couple of things
> 1. A pre-moulded clutch alignment tool

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun  7 09:27:25 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 16:27:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
References: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <9FF4867077B04DFCAE4D5CF36904786B@paul>

Exactly how I did it, except I used a single length crossed over at the 
hook.  I lowered the engine onto a saw-horse to stop it swinging around 
while I was working on the clutch but kept the bulk of the weight on the 
rope, so the engine was correctly aligned for when it went back in.  I don't 
see how a chain would be any better at changing the angle of the engine, 
without a tilter, unless you were hanging it off a single stud!

----- Original Message ----- 
>  Using rope is easier than it sounds.
>  You simply select the rope of needed strength for the task plus allowance
> for wear&tear, age, etc, then splice it into a loop.  Make two of them. 
> Then
> pass the loops around the engine to make slings and put the loop onto the 
> lift
> hook.
>  For the MGB engine, one would pass the the front rope under the 
> crankshaft
> pulley and onto the hook. Rear would go around bell housing and to the 
> hook.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun  7 09:53:11 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 16:53:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Chrome
References: <F447D6D4056D4B54B4D8D760265D2963@XPS400>
Message-ID: <7151043FFE5340888383F32E37A7A47E@paul>

If chrome is pitted it has had it.  This defect usually comes from 
underneath and so goes all the way through to the base coatings, you won't 
be able to polish it out.  I've never used so-called chrome cleaner on any 
chrome of mine, if simple car polish doesn't remove any and all dirt very 
easily and bring it to full lustre then again it has had it.  If rust stains 
appear on the surface, again it has had it.  Chrome cleaner *is* abrasive 
and so continued use will eventually wear it away.  Very cruddy chrome that 
hasn't been cleaned in years may well have a dirt and rust coating that 
resists ordinary body polish and so you may have to use chrome cleaner to 
remove it, but it should be by exception rather than for general cleaning. 
I've had a tube for over 20 years, as I only use it for polishing other 
metals, not chrome.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I am trying to restore a grill for my BN7.  The chrome is in fairly good
> condition but dull and with some very small pitting.  I am wondering what
> products others have used to polish old chrome, other than the usual 
> chrome
> polishes sold at every auto parts store.

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Jun  7 11:33:12 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 13:33:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Chrome
In-Reply-To: <7151043FFE5340888383F32E37A7A47E@paul>
References: <F447D6D4056D4B54B4D8D760265D2963@XPS400>
	<7151043FFE5340888383F32E37A7A47E@paul>
Message-ID: <E1OLgCc-0007Pf-6s@theta.look.ca>

I have been using Wenol (as well as Turtle Wax Chrome Polish) - it is 
excellent.  So much so I had to buy a batch of it for friends and 
neighbours.  They say, and me, that it is the best metal polish ever 
- and gentle.



At 11:53 AM 6/7/2010, Paul Hunt wrote:
>If chrome is pitted it has had it.  This defect usually comes from 
>underneath and so goes all the way through to the base coatings, you 
>won't be able to polish it out.  I've never used so-called chrome 
>cleaner on any chrome of mine, if simple car polish doesn't remove 
>any and all dirt very easily and bring it to full lustre then again 
>it has had it.  If rust stains appear on the surface, again it has 
>had it.  Chrome cleaner *is* abrasive and so continued use will 
>eventually wear it away.  Very cruddy chrome that hasn't been 
>cleaned in years may well have a dirt and rust coating that resists 
>ordinary body polish and so you may have to use chrome cleaner to 
>remove it, but it should be by exception rather than for general 
>cleaning. I've had a tube for over 20 years, as I only use it for 
>polishing other metals, not chrome.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>I am trying to restore a grill for my BN7.  The chrome is in fairly good
>>condition but dull and with some very small pitting.  I am wondering what
>>products others have used to polish old chrome, other than the usual chrome
>>polishes sold at every auto parts store.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun  8 06:53:53 2010
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 07:53:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
In-Reply-To: <9FF4867077B04DFCAE4D5CF36904786B@paul>
References: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
	<9FF4867077B04DFCAE4D5CF36904786B@paul>
Message-ID: <4C0E3D61.70305@ktc.com>

No need for a tilter.  Changing the angle is a matter of which chain 
link you have in the hook on the lift and where you attach the chain 
ends to the engine.  Do it enough times and you know how to rig it when 
you start the job.

   CR

On 6/7/2010 10:27 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>   I don't see how a chain would be any better at changing the angle of 
> the engine, without a tilter, unless you were hanging it off a single 
> stud!

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Jun  8 07:27:58 2010
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 13:27:58 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
Message-ID: <20100608.092758.6883.1@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>

Rick,
  It's not as difficult as one might think.  In the TD workshop manual there's
a pic of engines being slung into the cars at Abingdon.
  I'm not advocating that it is the best way, now that we have the tilt-lift
devices, but it is a way that works.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
Cc: "ccrobins at ktc.com" <ccrobins at ktc.com>, "mgs at autox.team.net"
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] watch your chains
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 17:55:10 -0700

Until you need to change the angle of the dangle so you get the trans
down the tunnel or mate the engine/clutch.
I would also note that back in the day unloading cargo ships was one
of the more dangerous occupations.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jun  8 07:35:12 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 14:35:12 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
References: <20100606.204306.23783.2@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
	<9FF4867077B04DFCAE4D5CF36904786B@paul> <4C0E3D61.70305@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <A97356F4A3FF4087A3617E29FDBFB6F1@paul>

When doing the engine only at least you need more tilt when getting it in 
the bay than you do when pushing it on to the gearbox, which was why I said 
'changing' the tilt.  The same applies when doing engine plus gearbox, but 
with that you can rest the end of the gearbox on a trolley jack or something 
while you feed everything in.

----- Original Message ----- 
> No need for a tilter.  Changing the angle is a matter of which chain link 
> you have in the hook on the lift and where you attach the chain ends to 
> the engine. 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 15:47:11 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 16:47:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] watch your chains
Message-ID: <4C0EBA5F.7000401@comcast.net>

Have to agree with Paul here. When you're inserting both as a unit it's 
easy to preload one leg of the bridle and use a floor jack to adjust 
angle once it's in place. Less easy when you're trying to mate the block 
to the transmission. Anything can be done of course. But nobody had 
imagined tilters when the cars were built. There are a number of tools 
that I use that the factory didn't have. Then again there are a number 
of Jaguar tools that the factory had that can't be had today for love 
nor money.

Glenn


> Re: [Mgs] watch your chains
> To: <ccrobins at ktc.com>
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <A97356F4A3FF4087A3617E29FDBFB6F1 at paul>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=response
> 
> When doing the engine only at least you need more tilt when getting it in 
> the bay than you do when pushing it on to the gearbox, which was why I said 
> 'changing' the tilt.  The same applies when doing engine plus gearbox, but 
> with that you can rest the end of the gearbox on a trolley jack or something 
> while you feed everything in.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> > No need for a tilter.  Changing the angle is a matter of which chain link 
>> > you have in the hook on the lift and where you attach the chain ends to 
>> > the engine. 

-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Jun  9 01:27:52 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 9 Jun 2010 09:27:52 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] =?utf-8?q?NOT_MG_related_-_looking_for_TR250/TR6_distributo?=
	=?utf-8?q?r?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_II0bBnm00004af4@www.erp-3.net>

Hi,

I'm looking for a Triumph TR250/TR6 ignition distributor. I know that this is the MG list but thought that since we are all more or less LBC affine, I'd ask this list as well.

So, if you have one or more of this distributor (condition not relevant) wasting shelf place and you don't need it any more, please contact me offline.

Eric

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Wed Jun  9 05:43:39 2010
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 07:43:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1974 1/2 CBB available
In-Reply-To: <MYFA_SERVER_II0bBnm00004af4@www.erp-3.net>
References: <MYFA_SERVER_II0bBnm00004af4@www.erp-3.net>
Message-ID: <20100609074339.movs98zw0oko4o8w@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

Hope this note does not offend anyone here.

Anyone interested in a 1974 1/2 CBB?  I have one in decent shape that  
I have to part with. Just don't have the time to do the little tweaks  
it needs and keep my other B running.

If interested or if you know of someone looking, please pass the word.
(For details, contact me off-line, bill.saidel at gmail.com)


Bill Saidel
New Jersey, USA

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Wed Jun  9 11:13:59 2010
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 13:13:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] NOT MG related - looking for TR250/TR6 distributor
References: <MYFA_SERVER_II0bBnm00004af4@www.erp-3.net>
Message-ID: <4D659127904F4B2FBEE9497579646225@frankdcczr6l6k>

Are they compatible with any of the MG dizzies? I know we all have buckets 
full of those.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "lists" <lists at brits-n-pieces.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>; <mg at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 3:27 AM
Subject: [Mgs] NOT MG related - looking for TR250/TR6 distributor


> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for a Triumph TR250/TR6 ignition distributor. I know that this 
> is the MG list but thought that since we are all more or less LBC affine, 
> I'd ask this list as well.
>
> So, if you have one or more of this distributor (condition not relevant) 
> wasting shelf place and you don't need it any more, please contact me 
> offline.
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Jun  9 12:35:31 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 9 Jun 2010 20:35:31 +0200
Subject: [Mgs]
	=?utf-8?q?NOT_MG_related_-_looking_for_TR250/TR6_distributo?=
	=?utf-8?q?r?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_IIxqNnY00004b13@www.erp-3.net>

Frank, no, I'm afraid they aren't. The six cyl. Triumphs used a sort of small gearbox attached to the dizzy housing to drive the tach cable.

Eric

Are they compatible with any of the MG dizzies? I know we all have buckets 
full of those.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "lists" <lists at brits-n-pieces.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>; <mg at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 3:27 AM
Subject: [Mgs] NOT MG related - looking for TR250/TR6 distributor


> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for a Triumph TR250/TR6 ignition distributor. I know that this 
> is the MG list but thought that since we are all more or less LBC affine, 
> I'd ask this list as well.
>
> So, if you have one or more of this distributor (condition not relevant) 
> wasting shelf place and you don't need it any more, please contact me 
> offline.
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
> 
.

From glenfel at sympatico.ca  Fri Jun 11 06:23:40 2010
From: glenfel at sympatico.ca (glenfel at sympatico.ca)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 08:23:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP79B90429F8CF7AD286CB66DED90@phx.gbl>

Here are some extracts from The Telegraph - blasts from the past!

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Briti
sh-cars.html?image=3

 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Briti
sh-cars.html?image=4

 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Briti
sh-cars.html?image=5

 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Briti
sh-cars.html?image=7

 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Briti
sh-cars.html?image=11

 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Briti
sh-cars.html?image=14

 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Briti
sh-cars.html

 

 

 

 

Glen Eldridge

235 Stillview Ave.

Pointe Claire QC H9R 2Y4

514-426-6698 home

514-686-0565 cell

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Fri Jun 11 08:40:51 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:40:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Steel dash parts car in Ct. $300
Message-ID: <SNT124-W43B792AA13FE45A3CCB31DB7D90@phx.gbl>

Looks to be worth the $300 even if it's just for the parts, but the floors
look okay (from the photographs, anyway).



NFI and all that.



http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/1784508382.html

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Jun 11 12:55:41 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 13:55:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP79B90429F8CF7AD286CB66DED90@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP79B90429F8CF7AD286CB66DED90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C1286AD.600@justbrits.com>

Better yet, Glen <G>:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-British-cars.html?image=14

Or more politely for fellow Listers:

*http://tinyurl.com/2ez7rdj

*Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[including MGA & MGB & Spridget 'stuff' F-S]

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Fri Jun 11 14:08:46 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 16:08:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph
In-Reply-To: <4C1286AD.600@justbrits.com>
References: <BLU0-SMTP79B90429F8CF7AD286CB66DED90@phx.gbl>,
	<4C1286AD.600@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W58BC3894EE943A749ECEE2B7D90@phx.gbl>

As a big OFAH fan, I LOVE the Reliant Robin.



Used Reliants are inexpensive enough and old enough to import into the U.S.
I've had an idea for just such a business - scouring the UK & Ireland for
"cheap" and quirky classics, and importing them to the U.S.  It will have to
stay just an idea, unfortunately, as I have no capital to back it up with.


-Mike Eldred

Wilmington, VT

'54 MG TF

'73 Midget


> Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 13:55:41 -0500
> From: shop at justbrits.com
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph
>
> Better yet, Glen <G>:
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Britis
h-cars.html?image=14
>
> Or more politely for fellow Listers:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/2ez7rdj
>
> *Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
> For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
> [including MGA & MGB & Spridget 'stuff' F-S]
> ______________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 11 14:24:12 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 13:24:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph
In-Reply-To: <4C1286AD.600@justbrits.com>
References: <BLU0-SMTP79B90429F8CF7AD286CB66DED90@phx.gbl>
	<4C1286AD.600@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <992085.40783.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Too bad that isn't really a frogeye....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: 4 - MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>; 4 - Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, June 11, 2010 2:55:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph

Better yet, Glen <G>:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-British-cars.html?image=14

Or more politely for fellow Listers:

*http://tinyurl.com/2ez7rdj

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Jun 11 16:58:12 2010
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:58:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph
In-Reply-To: <4C1286AD.600@justbrits.com>
References: <BLU0-SMTP79B90429F8CF7AD286CB66DED90@phx.gbl>
	<4C1286AD.600@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikZ0bKJpdA7m2Yf1aR0JKdQ4NjDqRyYmtzoGyK3@mail.gmail.com>

Did you see the description that went with the picture:
"A 1968 Austin Healey Sprite, driven here by Jeremy Clarkson. It is
affectionately nicknamed the "frogeye" "

That did not look much like a frogeye to me.

Simon

On Fri, Jun 11, 2010 at 11:55 AM, Shop at " Just Brits "
<shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
> Better yet, Glen <G>:
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatpicturegalleries/7817843/Classic-Britis
h-cars.html?image=14
>
> Or more politely for fellow Listers:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/2ez7rdj
>
> *Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
> For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
> [including MGA & MGB & Spridget 'stuff' F-S]
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 12:51:43 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 13:51:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] starter and solenoid
Message-ID: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>

My car has been down for better than a month now, stalling issue suddenly
became a won't turn over issue.

Last night I finally got into it. Pulling the wires off the starter and making
sure they were good. The connector on the white/green was suspect so I
replaced it.

On re-assembly, I found that I couldn't get the nut on the battery post of the
solenoid. It was stripped out.

Assuming that the starter is still good, I guess I need to replace the
solenoid. I'm assuming that they can be separated and a new one put on?

I guess I need to bench test the starter before I do that too.

Any words of wisdom on this path?

Paul.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jun 12 14:36:45 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 15:36:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] starter and solenoid
In-Reply-To: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
References: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C13EFDD.5030502@justbrits.com>

<< Any words of wisdom on this path? >>

Not until we know what car, Paul <G> !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ]

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sat Jun 12 15:33:20 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 18:33:20 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] mg engine
References: <AANLkTiltUBo1YZV03KZHRDPkQC44XzG2Gjjq7wbJxQCt@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTilV7S0rLgxMlniDBwPEaj_0hWV0qoEwV8JRHJ6h@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <051301cb0a76$e0dc6530$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

Hi.

I finally have my "replacement engine" back and am trying to remove my old
lump. I have never taken engine/gearbox out as a unit, only the engine.
Following "Bentley" I decided this time the overall untit would be the way to
go...I have hit a snag that has insufficient info in the manual and so I need
the benefit of "experience"....the cross member under the gearbox. It says to
remove the 4 bolt-two at each end-(done)- and then: Remove the two bolts
securing the bottom tie bracket to the croww member.  Now I have two bolts
that I have removed that go up through the cross member into what I would
describe as the "mount" which I believe is rubber and is between the gear box
and cross member. I was hesitent but cold not see any other bolts. Having
undone these it feels as though there is robber mount that is wedged into the
inside of that cross member and does not want to separate form it...I did not
want to force it incase it is attached and should not be disturbed...or is it
just wedged into the inside of croww member so I should pry them apart...don't
want to proceed further until I know!...So far I have to say its not easier
although it will be easier to connect the engine to the gearbox which is why I
chose to do it this way.

Any help I appreciate, thanks in advance,

Malcolm

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sat Jun 12 16:43:58 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 16:43:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] mg engine
In-Reply-To: <051301cb0a76$e0dc6530$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
References: <AANLkTiltUBo1YZV03KZHRDPkQC44XzG2Gjjq7wbJxQCt@mail.gmail.com><AANLkTilV7S0rLgxMlniDBwPEaj_0hWV0qoEwV8JRHJ6h@mail.gmail.com>
	<051301cb0a76$e0dc6530$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0705B2FF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I think the problem is that you removed the 4 cross member bolts (to the
body) before the mounts to the transmission. Thus you cannot see the
full transmission mounts with two bolts on each side. Two of them are
hard to see and naturally are a bit more difficult to remove - difficult
as in slow as I use a 1/2" wrench and I think I unscrew the rear bolts
(I think it's the rear ones) maybe a 1/2 turn at a time. But look at the
bright side - they are easier to remove than to install. I think someone
developed a method to bore a few small holes in the cross member to
allow access for a socket. Perhaps someone may recall and provide a
link.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Malcolm Jeffcock
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 3:33 PM
To: Batans
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] mg engine

Hi.

I finally have my "replacement engine" back and am trying to remove my
old lump. I have never taken engine/gearbox out as a unit, only the
engine.
Following "Bentley" I decided this time the overall untit would be the
way to go...I have hit a snag that has insufficient info in the manual
and so I need the benefit of "experience"....the cross member under the
gearbox. It says to remove the 4 bolt-two at each end-(done)- and then:
Remove the two bolts securing the bottom tie bracket to the croww
member.  Now I have two bolts that I have removed that go up through the
cross member into what I would describe as the "mount" which I believe
is rubber and is between the gear box and cross member. I was hesitent
but cold not see any other bolts. Having undone these it feels as though
there is robber mount that is wedged into the inside of that cross
member and does not want to separate form it...I did not want to force
it incase it is attached and should not be disturbed...or is it just
wedged into the inside of croww member so I should pry them
apart...don't want to proceed further until I know!...So far I have to
say its not easier although it will be easier to connect the engine to
the gearbox which is why I chose to do it this way.

Any help I appreciate, thanks in advance,

Malcolm

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 17:40:08 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 18:40:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Images from the Telegraph
Message-ID: <4C141AD8.6070301@comcast.net>

Maybe they were referring to Clarky. Just don't call him that to his face...

Glenn

> Did you see the description that went with the picture:
> "A 1968 Austin Healey Sprite, driven here by Jeremy Clarkson. It is
> affectionately nicknamed the "frogeye" "


-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 12 17:36:05 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 16:36:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] starter and solenoid
In-Reply-To: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C83967F5.29FB4%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Sometimes only the lower threads on the stud are stripped. If you stack a
few washers you can get the nut to hold. It's only a copper stud, so you
want a copper or brass nut, or it is very easy to strip it.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


 on 6/12/10 11:51 AM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> My car has been down for better than a month now, stalling issue suddenly
> became a won't turn over issue.
> 
> Last night I finally got into it. Pulling the wires off the starter and making
> sure they were good. The connector on the white/green was suspect so I
> replaced it.
> 
> On re-assembly, I found that I couldn't get the nut on the battery post of the
> solenoid. It was stripped out.
> 
> Assuming that the starter is still good, I guess I need to replace the
> solenoid. I'm assuming that they can be separated and a new one put on?
> 
> I guess I need to bench test the starter before I do that too.
> 
> Any words of wisdom on this path?
> 
> Paul.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 18:47:45 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 17:47:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] mg engine
In-Reply-To: <051301cb0a76$e0dc6530$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
References: <AANLkTiltUBo1YZV03KZHRDPkQC44XzG2Gjjq7wbJxQCt@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTilV7S0rLgxMlniDBwPEaj_0hWV0qoEwV8JRHJ6h@mail.gmail.com>
	<051301cb0a76$e0dc6530$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <268049.39581.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Malcolm, going by my '76 B, there are 3 bolts to remove the transmission stay rod - two that hold the front flange to
the transmission bell housing, and one that holds it to the trans crossmember. Then there are 4 bolts that hold the 
crossmember itself to the underside of the car. Then there are 2 bolts that hold the crossmember to the transmission.
These are very difficult to get to if you haven't done the famous 'crossmember modification' (which basically entails
drilling 2 holes through the crossmember at an angle to allow you to get a ratcher extension through the holes and onto
the trans mount bolts. But that's it, once you undo those 9, it should be clear (assuming, of course, you already disconnected
the 4 bolts that hold the trans to the driveshaft). 

I think the one you are referring to is the stay rod - there are rubber bits in there with a bolt that goes through horizontally.
But that should not be keeping the crossmember from dropping fully - you can drop it with the stay rod still attached.

Might differ slightly with an earlier car. You didn't say the year.

I have lots of pictures here - http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/ 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Malcolm Jeffcock <msjeffcock at eastlink.ca>
To: Batans <members2 at batans.ca>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, June 12, 2010 5:33:20 PM
Subject: [Mgs] mg engine

Hi.

I finally have my "replacement engine" back and am trying to remove my old
lump. I have never taken engine/gearbox out as a unit, only the engine.
Following "Bentley" I decided this time the overall untit would be the way to
go...I have hit a snag that has insufficient info in the manual and so I need
the benefit of "experience"....the cross member under the gearbox. It says to
remove the 4 bolt-two at each end-(done)- and then: Remove the two bolts
securing the bottom tie bracket to the croww member.  Now I have two bolts
that I have removed that go up through the cross member into what I would
describe as the "mount" which I believe is rubber and is between the gear box
and cross member. I was hesitent but cold not see any other bolts. Having
undone these it feels as though there is robber mount that is wedged into the
inside of that cross member and does not want to separate form it...I did not
want to force it incase it is attached and should not be disturbed...or is it
just wedged into the inside of croww member so I should pry them apart...don't
want to proceed further until I know!...So far I have to say its not easier
although it will be easier to connect the engine to the gearbox which is why I
chose to do it this way.

Any help I appreciate, thanks in advance,

Malcolm
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 20:40:50 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 21:40:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] starter and solenoid
In-Reply-To: <C83967F5.29FB4%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C83967F5.29FB4%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <3EBF02A7-418D-4CE4-BE1D-095E39FE42B1@gmail.com>

No it's the end threads. I thought it was designed that way to make it easier
to get everything on. It was that smooth.

I got the solenoid off the starter, but I couldn't get the black cap off.

My portable battery is completely dead. Can't get anything to bench test. I
guess I'll take it in to O'Reilly in the morning.


On Jun 12, 2010, at 6:36 PM, Max Heim wrote:

> Sometimes only the lower threads on the stud are stripped. If you stack a
> few washers you can get the nut to hold. It's only a copper stud, so you
> want a copper or brass nut, or it is very easy to strip it.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 6/12/10 11:51 AM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:
>
>> My car has been down for better than a month now, stalling issue suddenly
>> became a won't turn over issue.
>>
>> Last night I finally got into it. Pulling the wires off the starter and
making
>> sure they were good. The connector on the white/green was suspect so I
>> replaced it.
>>
>> On re-assembly, I found that I couldn't get the nut on the battery post of
the
>> solenoid. It was stripped out.
>>
>> Assuming that the starter is still good, I guess I need to replace the
>> solenoid. I'm assuming that they can be separated and a new one put on?
>>
>> I guess I need to bench test the starter before I do that too.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom on this path?
>>
>> Paul.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From dbh at hamengr.com  Sat Jun 12 21:06:31 2010
From: dbh at hamengr.com (DAVID HAMMOND)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 20:06:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 62 MGA 1622 Mk2
In-Reply-To: <4C13EFDD.5030502@justbrits.com>
References: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
	<4C13EFDD.5030502@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <002a01cb0aa5$6cc9fed0$465dfc70$@com>

Can anyone tell me if the coil mounts on the generator or the side plate? Is
the generator engine color?

David

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sun Jun 13 04:23:34 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 07:23:34 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] [Members2] mg engine
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC>
Message-ID: <063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

Thanks to everyone who replied. I have had a ;ook and can see the bolts "inside". Question though, are the rubbers that the bolts appear to pass through attached to the cross memberin any way? I see from the photos that Dave was kind enough to send me that they are least removeable from the cross member but I am wondering if when these bolts come out will the cross member and rubbers just drop or will the rubber remain attached to the gear box?

Malcol  

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Sun Jun 13 04:25:44 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 06:25:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 62 MGA 1622 Mk2
In-Reply-To: <002a01cb0aa5$6cc9fed0$465dfc70$@com>
References: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
	<4C13EFDD.5030502@justbrits.com> <002a01cb0aa5$6cc9fed0$465dfc70$@com>
Message-ID: <4C14B228.7060609@comcast.net>

Generator is black and coil mounts on a bracket on the sheet metal, not 
on the generator.

Gordie

DAVID HAMMOND wrote:
> Can anyone tell me if the coil mounts on the generator or the side plate? Is
> the generator engine color?
>
> David
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5192 (20100612) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Jun 13 06:12:39 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 07:12:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 62 MGA 1622 Mk2
In-Reply-To: <002a01cb0aa5$6cc9fed0$465dfc70$@com>
References: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
	<4C13EFDD.5030502@justbrits.com> <002a01cb0aa5$6cc9fed0$465dfc70$@com>
Message-ID: <697493.31760.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Generator was originally painted dark red along with the complete 
engine assembly in original production for MGA and early 
MGB.  Replacement generators are black, so lots of current field 
retrofits are black instead of red.  Later production MGB with black 
engine (18V engines) would have an alternator (starting 1968).

Coil bracket is on top of the generator for MGA 1500 model cars.
Coil bracket is on the engine mount for MGA 1600 and 1600-MK-II.
Coil mounts on the exhaust side inner fender (I think) for Twin Cams.
Coil bracket is back on top of the generator for "Deluxe" model cars, 
because the right side engine mount is different (same as the Twin 
Cam RH mount).
I'm guessing coil may be mounted on inner fender for MGB.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 08:06 PM 6/12/2010 -0700, DAVID HAMMOND wrote:
>Can anyone tell me if the coil mounts on the generator or the side plate? Is
>the generator engine color?
>....

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Sun Jun 13 07:11:17 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 09:11:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 62 MGA 1622 Mk2
In-Reply-To: <697493.31760.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
	<4C13EFDD.5030502@justbrits.com> <002a01cb0aa5$6cc9fed0$465dfc70$@com>
	<697493.31760.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C14D8F5.7050401@comcast.net>

Thanks for the corrections Barney...next time I'll open my bonnet before 
I open my mouth.

Gordie

Barney Gaylord wrote:
> Generator was originally painted dark red along with the complete 
> engine assembly in original production for MGA and early MGB.  
> Replacement generators are black, so lots of current field retrofits 
> are black instead of red.  Later production MGB with black engine (18V 
> engines) would have an alternator (starting 1968).
>
> Coil bracket is on top of the generator for MGA 1500 model cars.
> Coil bracket is on the engine mount for MGA 1600 and 1600-MK-II.
> Coil mounts on the exhaust side inner fender (I think) for Twin Cams.
> Coil bracket is back on top of the generator for "Deluxe" model cars, 
> because the right side engine mount is different (same as the Twin Cam 
> RH mount).
> I'm guessing coil may be mounted on inner fender for MGB.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com
>
>
> At 08:06 PM 6/12/2010 -0700, DAVID HAMMOND wrote:
>> Can anyone tell me if the coil mounts on the generator or the side 
>> plate? Is
>> the generator engine color?
>> ....
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus 
> signature database 5193 (20100613) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sun Jun 13 07:57:06 2010
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 08:57:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] mg engine
In-Reply-To: <051301cb0a76$e0dc6530$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
References: <AANLkTiltUBo1YZV03KZHRDPkQC44XzG2Gjjq7wbJxQCt@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTilV7S0rLgxMlniDBwPEaj_0hWV0qoEwV8JRHJ6h@mail.gmail.com>
	<051301cb0a76$e0dc6530$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <4C14E3B2.3090303@ktc.com>

Sounds like you should have left the tranny in the car.  :-) What year 
is the car?  Is it a B?

   CR

On 6/12/2010 4:33 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote:
> Hi.
>
> I finally have my "replacement engine" back and am trying to remove my old
> lump. I have never taken engine/gearbox out as a unit, only the engine.
> Following "Bentley" I decided this time the overall untit would be the way to
> go...I have hit a snag that has insufficient info in the manual and so I need
> the benefit of "experience"....the cross member under the gearbox. It says to
> remove the 4 bolt-two at each end-(done)- and then: Remove the two bolts
> securing the bottom tie bracket to the croww member.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 13 09:52:18 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 08:52:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [Members2] mg engine
In-Reply-To: <063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC>
	<063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <213496.66436.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Malcolm, the rubber mount attaches to the transmission with 2 bolts each, and has a central screw that attaches the
mount to the cross member. See here - http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7060032.jpg
So, the rubber mount stays attached to the trans when you pull the crossmember away.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Malcolm Jeffcock <msjeffcock at eastlink.ca>
To: mgs at autox.team.net; members2 at batans.ca
Sent: Sun, June 13, 2010 6:23:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Members2] mg engine

Thanks to everyone who replied. I have had a ;ook and can see the bolts "inside". Question though, are the rubbers that the bolts appear to pass through attached to the cross memberin any way? I see from the photos that Dave was kind enough to send me that they are least removeable from the cross member but I am wondering if when these bolts come out will the cross member and rubbers just drop or will the rubber remain attached to the gear box?

Malcol  
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Jun 13 10:14:13 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 18:14:13 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] starter and solenoid
References: <1B9DE14A-D194-4730-BF24-6475F41A2029@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5844CB7B1AE6458EAD1878C0847AC07B@uw471de61b465c>

Hi Paul,

I had just that a few months ago.
You need a new solenoid.
Yes the solenoid can be separated from the starter.
Beware to have the ignition clips kept up with an elastic band or something 
like that.
I once mounted the starter and one clip ended to be between the starter and 
the engine block....


Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 8:51 PM
Subject: [Mgs] starter and solenoid


> My car has been down for better than a month now, stalling issue suddenly
> became a won't turn over issue.
>
> Last night I finally got into it. Pulling the wires off the starter and 
> making
> sure they were good. The connector on the white/green was suspect so I
> replaced it.
>
> On re-assembly, I found that I couldn't get the nut on the battery post of 
> the
> solenoid. It was stripped out.
>
> Assuming that the starter is still good, I guess I need to replace the
> solenoid. I'm assuming that they can be separated and a new one put on?
>
> I guess I need to bench test the starter before I do that too.
>
> Any words of wisdom on this path?
>
> Paul. 

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Sun Jun 13 10:54:32 2010
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 12:54:32 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] [Lumps!] HI new here
Message-ID: <4fdea.7928979e.39466748@aol.com>

Carlos,
Try the URL's this way:
 
_http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s201/bryankiwi/DSCF3972.jpg_ 
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s201/bryankiwi/DSCF3972.jpg) 

_http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s201/bryankiwi/DSCF3963.jpg_ 
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s201/bryankiwi/DSCF3963.jpg) 
 
I had to fool a bit with the way they were originally posted before I was  
able to get them to come up. Computers will answer direct requests but can't 
as  of yet, apply much logic to the equation.... 
Graced, Paced and Spaced!
Alberto Escalante 1977 XJ-6Lump

In a message dated 6/13/2010 8:38:51 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
_carl.hutchins1 at sbcglobal.net_ (mailto:carl.hutchins1 at sbcglobal.net)   writes:

Bryankiwi:
 
Welcome!

Your photo bucket link gets a message that the pics have been 
deleted.  I love to look at old car pics. We of the hot rod 
persuasion call them  vintage tin.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Carl
--
Carl  Hutchins 1983 Jaguar  XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek,  California, United States

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sun Jun 13 11:35:50 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:35:50 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] more questions re mg engine
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC>
	<063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<4F3A0FBB990F4335896D21C03F5F83B5@DavePC>
Message-ID: <06e801cb0b1e$de05af30$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

Ok so I got the two nuts off and the cross member is of. Does the gear lever come out? I ask because I have another cross member at the back of the gear bo just before the union on the prop shaft. I cannot drop the assembly far enough to have the gear levaer clear the hole so as to allow it to come forward, That crossmember with jacking points is not removeable. As such unless gear lever comes off it isn't coming out but it does not easily come out and I don't want to break my transmission because ofdoing something I should not do.

It is a 74 B. To be frank I regret the decision to try and remove the complete assembly when removing engine only you have some access trouble on bolts two together and a challenge getting engine onto spline, these take about an hour to overcome. This is day three of this task! (with pauses to ask questions). 

Malcolm

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 13 13:15:23 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 12:15:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] more questions re mg engine
In-Reply-To: <06e801cb0b1e$de05af30$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC>
	<063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<4F3A0FBB990F4335896D21C03F5F83B5@DavePC>
	<06e801cb0b1e$de05af30$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <608225.5833.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Yes, you need to remove the gear lever, but it's simple. Undo the bolts holding down the metal ring in the interior, then unscrew
the knob and remove the cover and the ring. Then there are 3 or 4 bolts (I forget how many) that hold the actual lever in place.
I also believe that one of them might be different from the rest, so just remember which bolt came out of which position. 

Removing the trans in addition to the engine really isn't a big deal. It's a few extra bolts, and the speedo connection to the side
of the trans, which is easily undone once you can lower the tail end a bit.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Malcolm Jeffcock <msjeffcock at eastlink.ca>
To: Dave Munroe <dave at munroe.ca>; mgs at autox.team.net; members2 at batans.ca
Sent: Sun, June 13, 2010 1:35:50 PM
Subject: [Mgs] more questions re mg engine

Ok so I got the two nuts off and the cross member is of. Does the gear lever come out? I ask because I have another cross member at the back of the gear bo just before the union on the prop shaft. I cannot drop the assembly far enough to have the gear levaer clear the hole so as to allow it to come forward, That crossmember with jacking points is not removeable. As such unless gear lever comes off it isn't coming out but it does not easily come out and I don't want to break my transmission because ofdoing something I should not do.

It is a 74 B. To be frank I regret the decision to try and remove the complete assembly when removing engine only you have some access trouble on bolts two together and a challenge getting engine onto spline, these take about an hour to overcome. This is day three of this task! (with pauses to ask questions). 

Malcolm
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From rick_guenard at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 13 14:07:34 2010
From: rick_guenard at sbcglobal.net (Richard Guenard)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:07:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] more questions re mg engine
In-Reply-To: <06e801cb0b1e$de05af30$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC><063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91><4F3A0FBB990F4335896D21C03F5F83B5@DavePC>
	<06e801cb0b1e$de05af30$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <B4828820F7E8480B989FC6F24DC92D9B@Office>

Basically it's a good to replace seals, check propeller shaft, lube, check
fuel, brake (hydraulic / cable), and electrical lines..... BTW don't wear
white!

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Malcolm Jeffcock
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 1:36 PM
To: Dave Munroe; mgs at autox.team.net; members2 at batans.ca
Subject: [Mgs] more questions re mg engine

Ok so I got the two nuts off and the cross member is of. Does the gear lever
come out? I ask because I have another cross member at the back of the gear
bo just before the union on the prop shaft. I cannot drop the assembly far
enough to have the gear levaer clear the hole so as to allow it to come
forward, That crossmember with jacking points is not removeable. As such
unless gear lever comes off it isn't coming out but it does not easily come
out and I don't want to break my transmission because ofdoing something I
should not do.

It is a 74 B. To be frank I regret the decision to try and remove the
complete assembly when removing engine only you have some access trouble on
bolts two together and a challenge getting engine onto spline, these take
about an hour to overcome. This is day three of this task! (with pauses to
ask questions). 

Malcolm
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rick_guenard at sbcglobal.net

From schultejim at msn.com  Sun Jun 13 14:30:15 2010
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:30:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] speedo not working 58 MG Magnette
Message-ID: <BAY116-W512DF09C343628A1C6D98FDBDB0@phx.gbl>

Folks,

My speedo stopped working 2 months ago and I'm finally getting to it
today. I seperated the cable from the speedometer. Then I went for a
short ride to feel if the cable was rotating. As it turns out it was
not. So I would deduce from that the following: 1. It bound in the
sheath

 and the cable broke 2. The connection at the tranny is stripped or
broken.

Can I disconnect the cable at the tranny and pull the guts out without
removing the sheath hoping it is still whole? I'm hoping it just needs
cleaning and lubrication. Has any one tried this with success? If the
drive is stripped at the tranny end, what are my options?
The connection to the tranny is different from what I'm use too. It has a
 y or u  shaped bracket holding the cable against the tranny. Do I
loosen the bolt and take the bracket off or ?

Jim Schulte

58 MG Magnette with MGB engine and T35 auto tranny.

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sun Jun 13 15:49:25 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 18:49:25 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] more questions re mg engine
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC>
	<063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<4F3A0FBB990F4335896D21C03F5F83B5@DavePC>
	<06e801cb0b1e$de05af30$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<BBD3E59D94564B9F8E49EC42B1EB785D@DavePC>
Message-ID: <072c01cb0b42$4abf7700$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

Its out!!!!!
Thanks to all, in particular Dave who sent me some great photos and the final words of advice respecting the gear lever....


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dave Munroe 
  To: Malcolm Jeffcock ; mgs at autox.team.net ; members2 at batans.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 4:00 PM
  Subject: \Re: more questions re mg engine


  Malcolm;

  Yes, the gear lever comes out. (I too have an early '74, although my car now has a 5-speed where once resided the O\D 4 speed...)

  Lift up the gear lever boot if you haven't already done so and you can unbolt the gear lever assembly complete. Watch for the nylon bushing that covers the ball.

  Don't fret the job. The first time is the worst. Next time you are in the city, go into Fastenal on Joseph Zatzman Drive and buy a bag of grade 8 - 5\16" NF bolts. They hold your engine together and everything else. The next time you need to pull that engine it will be a piece of cake. 

  Believe me, its a lot easier to take the engine\tranny out together then to separate the engine from the transmission in the car. Think about how easy it will be to slide the input shaft of the trans. into the pilot bearing when you have both of them on the bench or the floor - and to bolt the bell housing up with out standing on your head or double jointing your arms, wrists or neck!

  Also, all the nutz'n boltz will be nice and new, torqued and easily dis-assembled for your peace of mind and ease of removal next time.

  Puts hair on your chest, don't it!

  Dave


    ----- Original essage ----- 
    From: Malcolm Jeffcock 
    To: Dave Munroe ; mgs at autox.team.net ; members2 at batans.ca 
    Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 2:35 PM
    Subject: more questions re mg engine


    Ok so I got the two nuts off and the cross member is of. Does the gear lever come out? I ask because I have another cross member at the back of the gear bo just before the union on the prop shaft. I cannot drop the assembly far enough to have the gear levaer clear the hole so as to allow it to come forward, That crossmember with jacking points is not removeable. As such unless gear lever comes off it isn't coming out but it does not easily come out and I don't want to break my transmission because ofdoing something I should not do.

    It is a 74 B. To be frank I regret the decision to try and remove the complete assembly when removing engine only you have some access trouble on bolts two together and a challenge getting engine onto spline, these take about an hour to overcome. This is day three of this task! (with pauses to ask questions). 

    Malcolm


------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From thgun at comporium.net  Sun Jun 13 15:51:27 2010
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 17:51:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA coil
Message-ID: <A90CAC11AD694776B84E9DF63C19A419@TOMPC>

I am tring to find out why my engine will not start.  The engine will not even
hit. I have gas to the carbs. I have seen spark at the points. After a little
of cranking I felt the coil. It was hot. Not red hot but too hot to keep your
hand on it. I do not think that is normal. Any ideas for me?
Tom Gunderson
1957 MGA 1500, rst

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Jun 13 22:20:30 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 21:20:30 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA coil
In-Reply-To: <A90CAC11AD694776B84E9DF63C19A419@TOMPC>
References: <A90CAC11AD694776B84E9DF63C19A419@TOMPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimL1UoILa1VTatB0gHUqUemoxw4AxM-WvXyEvUO@mail.gmail.com>

Coils get warm.  If you leave the key on with the engine off, and the
ignition points closed, they get down right hot.  This is normal.

You need the following to have your engine run:
Fuel
Air
Spark
You need the above items at the right place, at the right time in the
correct amount. (many thanks to Dick O'Kane who taught me that, and has
helped me to fix many a car with that info)
Just because you have gas at the carbs does not mean you have fuel in the
cylinders, or in the correct amount.
Ditto for spark at the points, what about at the plugs?
Rick

On Sun, Jun 13, 2010 at 2:51 PM, Tom Gunderson <thgun at comporium.net> wrote:

> I am tring to find out why my engine will not start.  The engine will not
> even
> hit. I have gas to the carbs. I have seen spark at the points. After a
> little
> of cranking I felt the coil. It was hot. Not red hot but too hot to keep
> your
> hand on it. I do not think that is normal. Any ideas for me?
> Tom Gunderson
> 1957 MGA 1500, rst
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun 14 02:14:36 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 09:14:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA coil
References: <A90CAC11AD694776B84E9DF63C19A419@TOMPC>
Message-ID: <30FAE7CB0159445D9CD829780A8F04A4@paul>

You need to clip a timing light onto the coil lead and each plug lead and 
check that it flashes as you crank.  Even then it could be points or 
condenser.  After cranking for even a short while the plugs should smell 
strongly of fuel.  If no fuel smell then no fuel is getting through to the 
cylinders.  If they are wet then it is flooded, but you can usually smell 
that anyway.  Is the choke functioning?

A coil gets pretty warm in normal running, too hot to touch if the ignition 
is left on with a stopped engine as the crank usually stops such that the 
points are closed.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

>I am tring to find out why my engine will not start. 

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Mon Jun 14 12:48:51 2010
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:48:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] where
Message-ID: <4C167993.9020105@camden.rutgers.edu>

Hi,

    Can I obtain pointers to lists of " MG's For Sale".   I have a very 
workable 74.5 cbb that I would like to sell reasonably and  would like 
to circulate that info.  Other than our local Craig's list in which I 
received 2 inquiries, I don't know of other for sale lists.
The car is workable, needs some TLC, runs and might turn out to be a  
real bargain for someone who has the time.  I bought it to replace 
another B which I thought was in worse condition than it was and I am 
still driving the first one.

So again, where might I advertise it, especially in the Md-De-NJ (where 
it is located) - Pa - NY.

Thanks,

Bill

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 14 14:29:04 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:29:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] where
In-Reply-To: <4C167993.9020105@camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <C83BDF20.2A027%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

http://www.mgexperience.net has a for sale forum.

This will only reach MGB enthusiasts, of course.

AutoTrader would have a broader audience.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 6/14/10 11:48 AM, Bill Saidel at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:

> Hi,
> 
>     Can I obtain pointers to lists of " MG's For Sale".   I have a very
> workable 74.5 cbb that I would like to sell reasonably and  would like
> to circulate that info.  Other than our local Craig's list in which I
> received 2 inquiries, I don't know of other for sale lists.
> The car is workable, needs some TLC, runs and might turn out to be a
> real bargain for someone who has the time.  I bought it to replace
> another B which I thought was in worse condition than it was and I am
> still driving the first one.
> 
> So again, where might I advertise it, especially in the Md-De-NJ (where
> it is located) - Pa - NY.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 14 14:29:47 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:29:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
Message-ID: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to all who weighed in on my question regarding whether to pull the
engine & gearbox or engine only for the clutch replacement in my '73 Midget.
With your advice, I decided to pull the engine and gearbox together.  It went
very well, with no major hiccups.



When I pulled the engine and transmission apart, the reason for all the
squealing and barking coming from the the clutch was immediately apparent.
The bearing itself was nowhere to be seen - the metal bearing holder that sits
in the clutch fork was present, although it was in two pieces and had been
ground almost flat.  The metal bearing surface in the center of the pressure
plate had broken and was serving as the bearing.  Amazingly, it was like that
when I drove it into the garage last fall, shortly after buying it.



Given the DPO's penchant for cobbling his repairs together with carpentry
fasteners, sledgehammers, and duct tape, the state of the clutch does not
surprise me.  And I knew it had to be replaced, along with the interior, when
I bought the car as a project.  Sadly, it appears the clutch is practically
new - there is little, if any, wear on the clutch disc.  Besides the DPO's
unconventional repair strategy, is there any other known cause for that kind
of clutch destruction?  I remember someone saying something about slave
cylinder pushrods that are too long - could that be responsible?  And since I
will be replacing the slave cylinder, what IS the correct length for the
pushrod?



Aside from using actual car parts and following recommended practices and
procedures, is there anything in particular that I might do to prevent the
destruction of the new bearing and pressure plate?  (Of course, I will also be
using a new clutch disc, too.)



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
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From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Jun 14 14:42:18 2010
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:42:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] where
In-Reply-To: <4C167993.9020105@camden.rutgers.edu>
References: <4C167993.9020105@camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <4C16942A.5060204@snet.net>

Hi Bill,
Here is one site (bottom center of web page):
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/class/
Good luck with the sale.
Mike

Bill Saidel wrote:
> Hi,
>     Can I obtain pointers to lists of " MG's For Sale".
>
> Thanks,
> Bill

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Mon Jun 14 14:57:11 2010
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:57:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] where
In-Reply-To: <4C167993.9020105@camden.rutgers.edu>
References: <4C167993.9020105@camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <D6F75AF5D1044DE3B32BFD65DF5ED441@RickPC>

 http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register

Rick
 Webmaster for:
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG 
Registers
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/amgcr - American MGC Register
  http://www.flamemini.net - Florida mini Enthusiasts
  http://www.britishcarclub.net -  Nature Coast English Car Club and The 
Suncoast Classic MG Club
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Saidel" <saidel at camden.rutgers.edu>
To: <Mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 14:48
Subject: [Mgs] where


> Hi,
>
>    Can I obtain pointers to lists of " MG's For Sale".   I have a very 
> workable 74.5 cbb that I would like to sell reasonably and  would like to 
> circulate that info.  Other than our local Craig's list in which I 
> received 2 inquiries, I don't know of other for sale lists.
> The car is workable, needs some TLC, runs and might turn out to be a  real 
> bargain for someone who has the time.  I bought it to replace another B 
> which I thought was in worse condition than it was and I am still driving 
> the first one.
>
> So again, where might I advertise it, especially in the Md-De-NJ (where it 
> is located) - Pa - NY.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgrick at mgcars.org.uk 

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 14 16:28:46 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik7Umt8jEZTz8HDP-jCyKmx4Q-ulGBLlMFB3GhF@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTik7Umt8jEZTz8HDP-jCyKmx4Q-ulGBLlMFB3GhF@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W48956A404789E2425FD24FB7DC0@phx.gbl>

I'll take a closer look, but from my first inspection, there was no sign of
the bearing - no pieces, no dust... I would consider the possibility that the
ding-dong DPO never even put it in, except that the metal part of it was in
the clutch fork.



-Mike Eldred





Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 17:24:02 -0500
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] The tale of the crunchy clutch
From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
CC: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net

DO NOT hold the clutch pedal down at stop signs/lights. If you found black
hair like fibers inside the bell housing, that would explain the early failing
of your carbon clutch bushing.


On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 3:29 PM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com> wrote:

Thanks to all who weighed in on my question regarding whether to pull the
engine & gearbox or engine only for the clutch replacement in my '73 Midget.
With your advice, I decided to pull the engine and gearbox together.  It went
very well, with no major hiccups.



When I pulled the engine and transmission apart, the reason for all the
squealing and barking coming from the the clutch was immediately apparent.
The bearing itself was nowhere to be seen - the metal bearing holder that
sits
in the clutch fork was present, although it was in two pieces and had been
ground almost flat.  The metal bearing surface in the center of the pressure
plate had broken and was serving as the bearing.  Amazingly, it was like that
when I drove it into the garage last fall, shortly after buying it.



Given the DPO's penchant for cobbling his repairs together with carpentry
fasteners, sledgehammers, and duct tape, the state of the clutch does not
surprise me.  And I knew it had to be replaced, along with the interior, when
I bought the car as a project.  Sadly, it appears the clutch is practically
new - there is little, if any, wear on the clutch disc.  Besides the DPO's
unconventional repair strategy, is there any other known cause for that kind
of clutch destruction?  I remember someone saying something about slave
cylinder pushrods that are too long - could that be responsible?  And since I
will be replacing the slave cylinder, what IS the correct length for the
pushrod?



Aside from using actual car parts and following recommended practices and
procedures, is there anything in particular that I might do to prevent the
destruction of the new bearing and pressure plate?  (Of course, I will also
be
using a new clutch disc, too.)



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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--
DON JULIO 1942

www.myspace.com/tequilabrad

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From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Jun 14 17:07:07 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:07:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikWxTUqGnXF4iWvWdZxPHvqxlNLziEP1Y2fipJp@mail.gmail.com>

Two things come to mind.
1. Not changing the TO bearing when the clutch was changed the last time
2. Leaving your foot on the clutch pedal when not actually shifting.

On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 1:29 PM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>wrote:

>  is there any other known cause for that kind
> of clutch destruction?
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
> inbox.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Jun 14 18:57:45 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:57:45 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikWxTUqGnXF4iWvWdZxPHvqxlNLziEP1Y2fipJp@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikWxTUqGnXF4iWvWdZxPHvqxlNLziEP1Y2fipJp@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0705B3CE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

It sounds like what happened to my 71BGT and neither applied. Nor was it
a DPO but rather all my doing. My 71BGT was very high mileage as I used
to drive it 100 miles a day commuting to work, almost all highway
driving. I replaced the TO bearing faithfully after an engine overhaul
and a couple of transmission repairs including replacing the tranny with
an OD unit. Where I failed was in not replacing the pressure plate.
After ten years and maybe 200k miles (hard to say, speedo was broke
during some of that time), I got the squealing sound indicating clutch
failure but it in itself was barely noticeable. A few months later, in a
drive to a job interview about 30 miles away, the clutch failed when the
slave cylinder popped open due to excessive play in the clutch. I
detailed this to the list at the time, maybe 10-15 years or thereabouts.
I didn't get the job either which I have to thank the car for, likely a
good thing in retrospect. Separating the engine and transmission, I was
able to see the TO bearing was worn all the way to the metal. Comparing
old to a new pressure plate showed what happened - the new had a thick
collar that the TO bearing presses against whereas the collar was gone
on the old one. What likely happened was that the collar eventually wore
down and once it disintegrated, the TO bearing's wear against the
pressure plate was accelerated greatly until it too failed. The moral of
the story is to replace all 3 units together - pressure plate, disc, and
TO bearing if anyone of the 3 needs replacing, not prohibitively
expensive.

But still, the answer to the original question is excessive wear -
components do wear out and taken too far will lead to destruction
whether due to riding the clutch or normal long term use. And certainly
there should have been wear sounds preceding the final destruction.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B (powered by the 71BGT powertrain from above)

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 5:07 PM
To: Mike Eldred
Cc: spridgets at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch

Two things come to mind.
1. Not changing the TO bearing when the clutch was changed the last time
2. Leaving your foot on the clutch pedal when not actually shifting.

On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 1:29 PM, Mike Eldred
<redscirocco at hotmail.com>wrote:

>  is there any other known cause for that kind of clutch destruction?

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 14 19:47:48 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:47:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <717614.58735.qm@web112105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Mon, 6/14/10, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com> wrote:


> Aside
from using actual car parts and following recommended
> practices and
>
procedures, is there anything in particular that I might do
> to prevent the
>
destruction of the new bearing and pressure plate? 
> (Of course, I will also
be
> using a new clutch disc, too.)

Check the "ears" on the throwout bearing
casting.  I've
seen some newer ones that are less than linear.  (ie, if
they
are the hands of a clock, they should be at 9:15,
not 8:20.) I'm getting
increasingly squealy and dragging
action with my clutch and I'm suspecting
that I may find
myself in the same boat as you.  I'm hoping I can make it
through the summer because I need to get the house painted
this year so there
is no money for major car repairs.  :-(

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jun 15 04:11:13 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:11:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BBB1C059831F482E89ECDE7CBE14CA7F@paul>

Just replace the bearing, if the friction plate and cover plate are as good 
as you say.

There was a period when the carbon ring was pinned into the metal casting 
instead of being bonded, and these had a habit of breaking up in very short 
order, see http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_clutchframe.htm and click on 
'Release Bearing'.  However it leaves black dust if not chunks inside the 
bellhousing.  The slave cylinder can take up a huge amount of wear in the 
bearing, so I suppose it is possible it was reassembled to run metal on 
metal until the casting wore through.

With too long a push-rod it would be almost impossible to bleed the system, 
as no matter whether you forwards or reverse bleed it the master piston must 
come back far enough to clear the bypass hole.  I suppose it could just be 
barely clearing it by a tiny amount, and heat expansion might close it off 
altogether, but that could be for a number of reasons of which a too-long 
push rod is just one.  You can only really be sure you have the correct free 
play at the pedal to push-rod connection by removing any pedal box cover and 
checking it, but even then there could be a problem inside the master 
preventing the *piston* coming all the way back.

As far as using the new clutch goes just don't sit at traffic lights or 
stuck in traffic with the clutch pedal down, and *never* 'ride' the clutch 
i.e. have your foot resting on the pedal while under way.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- >
>...  Sadly, it appears the clutch is practically
> new - there is little, if any, wear on the clutch disc.  Besides the DPO's
> unconventional repair strategy, is there any other known cause for that 
> kind
> of clutch destruction?  I remember someone saying something about slave
> cylinder pushrods that are too long - could that be responsible?  And 
> since I
> will be replacing the slave cylinder, what IS the correct length for the
> pushrod?
>
> Aside from using actual car parts and following recommended practices and
> procedures, is there anything in particular that I might do to prevent the
> destruction of the new bearing and pressure plate? 

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Jun 15 06:03:49 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 08:03:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] where to sell
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20723.1276566412.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20723.1276566412.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <356C2034-8C09-4FBC-9E29-762D97044E57@mgcarclub.com>

http://www.mgcarclub.com  (MG Car Club Western New York Centre,  
Rochester NY) has free classifieds

>
> From: Bill Saidel <saidel at camden.rutgers.edu>
> Date: June 14, 2010 2:48:51 PM EDT
> To: Mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] where
>
>
> Hi,
>
>    Can I obtain pointers to lists of " MG's For Sale".   I have a  
> very workable 74.5 cbb that I would like to sell reasonably and   
> would like to circulate that info.  Other than our local Craig's  
> list in which I received 2 inquiries, I don't know of other for  
> sale lists.
> The car is workable, needs some TLC, runs and might turn out to be  
> a  real bargain for someone who has the time.  I bought it to  
> replace another B which I thought was in worse condition than it  
> was and I am still driving the first one.
>
> So again, where might I advertise it, especially in the Md-De-NJ  
> (where it is located) - Pa - NY.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Jun 15 06:20:38 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 05:20:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <BBB1C059831F482E89ECDE7CBE14CA7F@paul>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>
	<BBB1C059831F482E89ECDE7CBE14CA7F@paul>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinWnEwT7-ZSvz0GgUTcp0gFNtGww50j42FOCCzh@mail.gmail.com>

Read for detail.  I don't think the pressure plate is good.

On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 3:11 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>wrote:

> Just replace the bearing, if the friction plate and cover plate are as good
> as you say.
>
> >>The metal bearing surface in the center of the pressure
> plate had broken and was serving as the bearing.

From otis15 at aol.com  Thu Jun 17 08:47:37 2010
From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 10:47:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Piston thurst
Message-ID: <8CCDC4329C4381C-21E4-9A78@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>

When I removed the pistons from a 1973 18v the compression ring gaps were on
the cam side of the pistons. Reading the Haynes manual it says the compression
rings should be set at 90 degree gap opposite the thrust side of the piston,
that would set them opposide side of the cam since the engine turns clockwise.
Am I correct?

                                                    Thank for any help
                                                                             
                    Steve

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 09:53:03 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:53:03 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <C4C37F66FA96426F89FEF2BFE4FD4D49@user8634b3d69b>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<C4C37F66FA96426F89FEF2BFE4FD4D49@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W4883B8806D7871A72641D3B7DF0@phx.gbl>

Thought you all might enjoy a look at the bits I found where the pressure
release bearing was supposed to be.



http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2016356&id=1007316156&saved#!/photo.php
?pid=31252405&id=1007316156


_________________________________________________________________
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From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 10:31:42 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 12:31:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTingztluv8uVsljEcu2IvO2EHoldRUJlvvd1ghYo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<C4C37F66FA96426F89FEF2BFE4FD4D49@user8634b3d69b>,
	<SNT124-W4883B8806D7871A72641D3B7DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTingztluv8uVsljEcu2IvO2EHoldRUJlvvd1ghYo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W31FC9D31856E038B8F1F2FB7DF0@phx.gbl>

Sorry about the long link.  This should work better.



http://tiny.cc/764i6





Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:24:15 -0500
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
CC: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net


Says not available



On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
wrote:

Thought you all might enjoy a look at the bits I found where the pressure
release bearing was supposed to be.



http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2016356&id=1007316156&saved#!/photo.php
?pid=31252405&id=1007316156


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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--
DON JULIO 1942

www.myspace.com/tequilabrad

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From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Thu Jun 17 11:32:21 2010
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 13:32:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W31FC9D31856E038B8F1F2FB7DF0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<C4C37F66FA96426F89FEF2BFE4FD4D49@user8634b3d69b>,
	<SNT124-W4883B8806D7871A72641D3B7DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTingztluv8uVsljEcu2IvO2EHoldRUJlvvd1ghYo@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT124-W31FC9D31856E038B8F1F2FB7DF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C1A5C25.8090405@camden.rutgers.edu>

Hey Mike,
   Those of us not on facebook cannot login to see.

Bill S.
'76B
BMCSNJ


Mike Eldred wrote:
> Sorry about the long link.  This should work better.
>
>
>
> http://tiny.cc/764i6
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:24:15 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
> From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
> To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
> CC: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net
>
>
> Says not available
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Thought you all might enjoy a look at the bits I found where the pressure
> release bearing was supposed to be.

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 12:00:01 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 14:00:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil1fI4S_5-a8xYR18r8nFHflFMV7ja7bZr-sUtt@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT124-W96625A78ACC4495A19B44B7DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<C4C37F66FA96426F89FEF2BFE4FD4D49@user8634b3d69b>,
	<SNT124-W4883B8806D7871A72641D3B7DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTingztluv8uVsljEcu2IvO2EHoldRUJlvvd1ghYo@mail.gmail.com>,
	<SNT124-W31FC9D31856E038B8F1F2FB7DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTil1fI4S_5-a8xYR18r8nFHflFMV7ja7bZr-sUtt@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W63BA916C09092543DFB7F6B7DF0@phx.gbl>

My apologies to all for the multiple emails with links that either lead
nowhere or to a login page for facebook.

Here is the public link to my photo.  Either this works, or its my last try.

The photo's not worth any more bother to most people, I'm sure.



http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=31252405&l=80c355057c&id=1007316156



In the photo, the two broken pieces are what's left of the release bearing.
The thing on the right is supposed to be attatched to the center of the
pressure plate, but it had broken off and was serving as a release bearing.



Mike Eldred

'73 Midget





Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 12:21:36 -0500
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
To: redscirocco at hotmail.com

I guess it wasn't you, this is what I got.



This content is currently unavailable
The page you requested cannot be displayed right now. It may be temporarily
unavailable, the link you clicked on may have expired, or you may not have
permission to view this page.


Return home Plus, you have to have a Facebook account to see them.
Brad


On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 11:31 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
wrote:


Sorry about the long link.  This should work better.

http://tiny.cc/764i6




Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:24:15 -0500
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
CC: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net



Says not available



On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
wrote:

Thought you all might enjoy a look at the bits I found where the pressure
release bearing was supposed to be.



http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2016356&id=1007316156&saved#!/photo.php
?pid=31252405&id=1007316156


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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--
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www.myspace.com/tequilabrad



The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get
started.

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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 17 13:01:21 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 12:01:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <4C1A5C25.8090405@camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <C83FBF11.2A16A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I'm on FB, but I still can't get in. This is why FB is not a very useful
photo sharing site -- the privacy settings. Try Flickr.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/17/10 10:32 AM, Bill Saidel at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:

> Hey Mike,
>    Those of us not on facebook cannot login to see.
> 
> Bill S.
> '76B
> BMCSNJ
> 
> 
> Mike Eldred wrote:
>> Sorry about the long link.  This should work better.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> http://tiny.cc/764i6
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:24:15 -0500
>> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
>> From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
>> To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
>> CC: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net
>> 
>> 
>> Says not available
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Thought you all might enjoy a look at the bits I found where the pressure
>> release bearing was supposed to be.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 17 14:14:41 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 13:14:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <C83FBF11.2A16A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C83FBF11.2A16A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <617006.24735.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I had no problem, and I'm not even friends with Mike.... ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, June 17, 2010 3:01:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch

I'm on FB, but I still can't get in. This is why FB is not a very useful
photo sharing site -- the privacy settings. Try Flickr.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/17/10 10:32 AM, Bill Saidel at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:

> Hey Mike,
>    Those of us not on facebook cannot login to see.
> 
> Bill S.
> '76B
> BMCSNJ
> 
> 
> Mike Eldred wrote:
>> Sorry about the long link.  This should work better.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> http://tiny.cc/764i6
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:24:15 -0500
>> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
>> From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
>> To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
>> CC: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net
>> 
>> 
>> Says not available
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Thought you all might enjoy a look at the bits I found where the pressure
>> release bearing was supposed to be.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 17 14:58:05 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 13:58:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
In-Reply-To: <617006.24735.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C83FDA6D.2A170%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

His third attempt worked.
--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/17/10 1:14 PM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> I had no problem, and I'm not even friends with Mike.... ;-)
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, June 17, 2010 3:01:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
> 
> I'm on FB, but I still can't get in. This is why FB is not a very useful
> photo sharing site -- the privacy settings. Try Flickr.
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 6/17/10 10:32 AM, Bill Saidel at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:
> 
>> Hey Mike,
>>    Those of us not on facebook cannot login to see.
>> 
>> Bill S.
>> '76B
>> BMCSNJ
>> 
>> 
>> Mike Eldred wrote:
>>> Sorry about the long link.  This should work better.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://tiny.cc/764i6
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:24:15 -0500
>>> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [mgs] The tale of the crunchy clutch
>>> From: tequila.brad at gmail.com
>>> To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
>>> CC: mgs at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Says not available
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Mike Eldred <redscirocco at hotmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thought you all might enjoy a look at the bits I found where the pressure
>>> release bearing was supposed to be.

From mcolson40 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 15:10:33 2010
From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com (Milton Olson)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:10:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Piston ring end gaps.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1276797603.26064.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1276797603.26064.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W105E9BB7C631A464F87916B4DF0@phx.gbl>

 For what it is worth, I worked for a piston ring company in the test lab for
several years. When testing piston rings we found that the rings rotate during
opperation. This condition is normal. We used to have a set pattern for ring
gap location when installing rings on the pistons the end gaps were never in
the same spot when the engines were torn down after a test run.

The only gaps that stayed as installed were the thin rails of the three piece
oil rings, we used to position the rail gaps about 45 degrees from the
expander butt joint, one rail on one side and the other on the other side.
Because of the expander the three piece oil ring would move as a unit.

You may have noticed that the rings on two cycle engines are pinned so that
the ring does'nt rotate. The gaps are pinned in an area away from the exhaust
and intake ports. The piston rings may break if the gaps are allowed to run in
the ported area.

Hope this information is of some help to you.

Best regards,

Milton

Midget 78 in the process of being restored.

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From michaelwjose at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 19 03:37:21 2010
From: michaelwjose at hotmail.com (Michael W. Jose)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 02:37:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] V8 Conversion Advice
Message-ID: <BAY127-W25DECC347FB683E4A03F77CCC10@phx.gbl>

Hello O Wise MG Sages,
I am a super lurker as I have not had much time or money to play with my very
neglected 79 B.  I have recently been sorting her out, renewing hoses and
rubber bits; turning the engine over by hand, etc. to ease her back onto the
road, now that I have my own house and garage to work in.

I have an opportunity to purchase a 99 Land Rover Discovery with a 4.0 V8 for
a song and I'm considering the swap.  I would have to take possession of the
entire vehicle (major collision but was 'still running' when parked a couple
years ago).  For those who have BTDT, which bits should I grab and which
should I leave?  I would like to use as much of the injection and ignition
systems as I can, though I understand maybe a bit of modification might be
necessary.

If you have any insight, or just want to encourage or discourage me, please
reply.

Much thanks in advance.

Your humble fellow MG enthusiast,
Mike Jose
79 MGB
Chandler AZ

PS- I believe there was a list specifically for V8s in the past, but last I
tried, I could not subscribe.  So Flame me not for OT post!!

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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jun 19 05:49:03 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 12:49:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] V8 Conversion Advice
References: <BAY127-W25DECC347FB683E4A03F77CCC10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <79B9AE56D23649E99EC032454E32C5E7@paul>

Having rewired a car with a conversion I would say pull everything so that 
basically you only need a fuel and a power connection, so that is all the 
fuel, ignition and control systems.  You will also need the fuel pump, a 
return pipe, and a swirl pot in the tank, and those are just the bits I know 
about.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I have an opportunity to purchase a 99 Land Rover Discovery with a 4.0 V8 
> for
> a song and I'm considering the swap... 

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Sat Jun 19 06:34:27 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 08:34:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] V8 Conversion Advice
In-Reply-To: <BAY127-W25DECC347FB683E4A03F77CCC10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY127-W25DECC347FB683E4A03F77CCC10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C1CB953.4040200@comcast.net>

I would suggest contacting Dan LaGrou or reviewing his website, here 
<http://www.aluminumv8.com/index.htm>.
Dan is the guru of V8 conversions, located in Michigan.
HTH

Gordie

Michael W. Jose wrote:
> Hello O Wise MG Sages,
> I am a super lurker as I have not had much time or money to play with my very
> neglected 79 B.  I have recently been sorting her out, renewing hoses and
> rubber bits; turning the engine over by hand, etc. to ease her back onto the
> road, now that I have my own house and garage to work in.
>
> I have an opportunity to purchase a 99 Land Rover Discovery with a 4.0 V8 for
> a song and I'm considering the swap.  I would have to take possession of the
> entire vehicle (major collision but was 'still running' when parked a couple
> years ago).  For those who have BTDT, which bits should I grab and which
> should I leave?  I would like to use as much of the injection and ignition
> systems as I can, though I understand maybe a bit of modification might be
> necessary.
>
> If you have any insight, or just want to encourage or discourage me, please
> reply.
>
> Much thanks in advance.
>
> Your humble fellow MG enthusiast,
> Mike Jose
> 79 MGB
> Chandler AZ
>
> PS- I believe there was a list specifically for V8s in the past, but last I
> tried, I could not subscribe.  So Flame me not for OT post!!
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
> Hotmail.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
> 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5209 (20100619) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jun 19 09:19:49 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 09:19:49 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] V8 Conversion Advice
In-Reply-To: <BAY127-W25DECC347FB683E4A03F77CCC10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY127-W25DECC347FB683E4A03F77CCC10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C1CE015.7020900@bradakis.com>

> PS- I believe there was a list specifically for V8s in the past, but last I
> tried, I could not subscribe.
>    

Did the mgb-v8 list not show up when you went to
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo ?

mjb.

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sat Jun 19 17:26:11 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 20:26:11 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] ] mg engine
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC>
	<063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<E32661333BB0415BA92116D52B35B485@MainGigaBite>
Message-ID: <024f01cb1006$ce0085a0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

Quick question...when I put in the replacement engine should I keep the fly wheel that was on that engine before I put on the clutch or use the fly wheel off the removed anging to which the clutch had been associated?
I suspect just keeping the engine/flywheel pairing should be preferred but just want to check... 

Malcolm

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sat Jun 19 17:34:10 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 20:34:10 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] [Members2] ] mg engine
References: <9E4331CC8F3B4746970D9A94B58645CC@DavePC>
	<063a01cb0ae2$7aa76af0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<E32661333BB0415BA92116D52B35B485@MainGigaBite>
	<024f01cb1006$ce0085a0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<FF5FE172FA734761AFBB74077705CDD3@inspiron2200>
Message-ID: <026601cb1007$eb9531f0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

the clutch has less than 8k miles on it so I was just going to pop it back in. Both fly wheels look fine which is prompted the question 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Larry Yockell 
  To: Malcolm Jeffcock 
  Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 8:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [Members2] ] mg engine


  Hi Malcolm

  I would be only concerned about the condition of the friction surface of the flywheel and the condition of the teeth on the flywheel. 

  You are not putting a new clutch since you have the engine out?

  Larry
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Malcolm Jeffcock 
    To: mgs at autox.team.net 
    Cc: members2 at batans.ca 
    Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 8:26 PM
    Subject: Re: [Members2] ] mg engine


    Quick question...when I put in the replacement engine should I keep the fly wheel that was on that engine before I put on the clutch or use the fly wheel off the removed anging to which the clutch had been associated?
    I suspect just keeping the engine/flywheel pairing should be preferred but just want to check... 

    Malcolm


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


    _______________________________________________
    Members2 mailing list
    Members2 at batans.ca
    http://batans.ca/mailman/listinfo/members2_batans.ca

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Jun 20 12:40:08 2010
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 18:40:08 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] ] mg engine
Message-ID: <20100620.144008.2226.1@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>

  The machine shops I have used told me that the cranks and flywheels are
balanced separately.  If that's so, then it would seem that flywheels could be
swapped.
  But--since cranks and flywheels are usually marked, some must believe that
crank and flywheel should be kept together.
  I would keep the originals together unless you knew of some strong reason to
exchange them.
Bob




---------- Original Message ----------
From: Malcolm Jeffcock <msjeffcock at eastlink.ca>

Quick question...when I put in the replacement engine should I keep the fly
wheel that was on that engine before I put on the clutch or use the fly wheel
off the removed anging to which the clutch had been associated?
I suspect just keeping the engine/flywheel pairing should be preferred but
just want to check...

Malcolm
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sun Jun 20 13:40:29 2010
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 15:40:29 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] ] mg engine
Message-ID: <be596.78c37de9.394fc8ad@aol.com>

Correction - flywheels and clutches are usually marked.  If they mark  the 
crank as well, it is probably because they are used to balancing V8s where  
it does indeed matter.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 20/06/2010 12:37:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mgbob at juno.com writes:

The  machine shops I have used told me that the cranks and flywheels  are
balanced separately.  If that's so, then it would seem that  flywheels 
could be
swapped.
But--since cranks and flywheels are  usually marked, some must believe that
crank and flywheel should be kept  together.
I would keep the originals together unless you knew of  some strong reason 
to
exchange them.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sun Jun 20 14:41:48 2010
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 20:41:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] MG flywheel. Is there balance in our MG flywheels?
In-Reply-To: <400410441.5908031277066505850.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <360469176.5908081277066508801.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

your note turns up a question that has engaged me for some time. 
Is there balance in our MG flywheels? Years ago I had the engine to my MGA balanced, with the flywheel turned and a different ring gear installed. 
There were no marks or instructions on the orientation of the flywheel for installation. 
Recently I had the balance of the flywheel of a later (76-80) MG checked, and was told that it was not a perfect, or neutral balance. 
I could find no markings on this flywheel for instalation either. 
Is it possible that this variance is due to the motor involved? 3 main bearing verses 5 main bearing? 
When rebuilding the engine of my first car, a 1967 Ford Cortina GT, I was told by my my mentor to make small marks on the flywheel and on the crankshaft end so that I could reinstall the flywheel in the same orientation, in the hope that the original assemblers in the factory had known what they were doing. He said this with a smile, indicating a bit of doubt as to the attention given to this matter. 
So I offer this question to you, my fellow enthusiasts. Is there balance in our flywheels? 
Eric. 
46 MG-TC 
59 MGA 
65 MGB 
70 MGB 
71 MGB 
So many cars, so little parking. 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Jun 20 14:51:56 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 15:51:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] I win
Message-ID: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>

Finally, after nearly 2 months (of good weather) I'm back on the road.

In late April, I started getting an  engine dying on the highway, after 10
miles or so. In the course of two days, it got worse, and I parked it. When I
had time (which was about an hour total in May), I tried to diagnose it. I
convinced myself it was the coil. So I got a new one, and spark plug wires
too. Spark plug wires because my daily driver Subaru, was acting up as well.
ODB II code of a misfire in cylinder two. Changed the plugs there, even though
they looked perfect. Then changed the wires.

I then decided to pull my new (last year) pertronix dizzy. No help.

At some point, I swapped in a new relay in both the ignition relay and the
starter relay. To no effect.

Then it wouldn't turn over at all. Charged the battery, still nothing I tear
into the wiring all through that area, find the battery terminal stripped on
the starter solenoid. Tried taking apart the solenoid to just replace the
terminal. It doesn't come apart, at least not in such a way that I'd ever get
it back together. :-)

Went to O'Reilly Auto, who have starters and alternators (at least) for an
MGB, not to mention a clerk with an LBC (don't remember what). As a bonus,
they both carry lifetime warrantees. So I just got a whole new start. Only
$80 after the core charge. Delivered to the store in a day.

That got me back to turning over and sounding like it starts only to stall
again when you let the key go.

For a while I was thinking the anti-runon valve was flaking out.

Finally, today, I got it working.

Don't read below until you come up with your theory. :-)


















I was trying to figure out how to use my remote starter, connect to the wires
of the solenoid relay, and was getting nothing. So I made up a 3 inch cable
with male ends on both ends and hooked up the brown to the brown white on the
ignition relay. And that was that, the car started right up and ran perfectly.
I pulled out that relay, and opened it up. Sure enough it was burned inside.

Last year, I had messed something up in the wiring over there, but it had
seemed fine.  I can't explain how it didn't work for me 2-3 weeks ago when I
tried my spare relay.

So, I put the new relay back in place, and took it out for a nice drive. Well,
maybe too aggressive drive, but it was on semi-country roads.


Good to be back on the road.  It's supposed to rain tomorrow.

Paul.

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sun Jun 20 15:51:11 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 18:51:11 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] engine question
References: <360469176.5908081277066508801.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <02fd01cb10c2$b333b000$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

This task has been very frustrating I thought that once I had the engine out it would be a single day re-install, maybe 4 hours allowing for a lot of jiggling by myself...I still don't even have my transmission and engine mated! My latest bought with my own ignorance is similar to what Eric has stated in the message below. I went to put the fly wheel back on the engine, install clutch etc. a short job but after three hours still in bits! Bentley manual states:
            WHEN REPLACING THE FLYWHEEL ENSURE THAT THE 1 AND 4 TIMING MARK ON THE PERIPHERY OF THE FLYWHEEL IS IN LINE WITH AND ON THE SAME SIDE AS THE FIRST AND FOURTH THROWS OF THE CRANKSHAFT.
            TO ASSIST CORRECT LOCATION OF THE FLYWHEEL THE DEPRESSION IN THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE SHOULD BE IN LINE WITH THE ONE ON THE FLYWHEEL PERIPHERY

So I searched, and I searched for a "timing mark" on the flywheel...find nothing. So I search the other flywheel...nothing. So I have no 1 and 4 timing mark that I can see, I see no depression in the crank flange either. I thought it was a question of my ignorance, not really knowing what I am looking for but I could find no mark of any type! What am I looking for? How big/noticeable is the "depression" I should be looking for? Anyone have a photo? I have a single dowel for the flywheel to mount on while installing...should there be two? It looks like there is a hole for one on each side of the wheel...

Another question: should there have been a gasket between the transmission and engine? I had a fair bit of oil inside my bell housing, there was nothing to act as a gasket? Would a very thing film of silicone be in order?
On a positive note if you have seen that CLR degreaser that is now advertised really works well, far more effective than the other degreasers I used at first to clean it out..
Another issue is the distributor...how do I ensure it is correctly oriented and not 180 off?

Well if I can get some guidance on these points I would be very grateful, thanks. I am learning that my ignorance knows no bounds!  

Malcolm

  ---

  -- Original Message ----- 
  From: cyberemp at comcast.net 
  To: MG LIST 
  Cc: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 5:41 PM
  Subject: re: MG flywheel. Is there balance in our MG flywheels?


  your note turns up a question that has engaged me for some time. 
  Is there balance in our MG flywheels? Years ago I had the engine to my MGA balanced, with the flywheel turned and a different ring gear installed.
     There were no marks or instructions on the orientation of the flywheel for installation.
     Recently I had the balance of the flywheel of a later  (76-80) MG checked, and was told that it was not  a perfect, or neutral balance.
     I could find no markings on this flywheel for instalation either.
     Is it possible that this variance is due to the motor involved? 3 main bearing verses 5 main bearing?
    When rebuilding the engine of my first car, a 1967 Ford Cortina GT, I was told by my my mentor to make small marks on the flywheel and on the crankshaft end so that I could reinstall the flywheel in the same orientation, in the hope that the original assemblers in the factory had known what they were doing. He said this with a  smile, indicating a bit of doubt as to the attention given to this matter.
     So I offer this question to you, my fellow enthusiasts. Is there balance in our flywheels?
  Eric.
  46 MG-TC
  59 MGA
  65 MGB
  70 MGB
  71 MGB
  So many cars, so little parking.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------



  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2951 - Release Date: 06/20/10 06:37:00

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 20 16:54:40 2010
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 17:54:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG flywheel. Is there balance in our MG flywheels?
In-Reply-To: <360469176.5908081277066508801.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <360469176.5908081277066508801.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C1E9C30.6030705@sbcglobal.net>

Most engines are internally balanced.  That is, the crank and flywheel 
are balanced separately.  There are exceptions though.  From a hazy 
memory - after all, it has been 20 years since I messed with this - 400 
small block Chevys, 454 Chevys and 428 Fords are externally balanced.  
There are others, but no LBCs as I remember. 

Charles Hill

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sun Jun 20 17:17:08 2010
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 19:17:08 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] engine question
Message-ID: <c6013.5b437abb.394ffb74@aol.com>

No, there is no gasket there. Any oil in the bellhousing will have escaped  
past a defective rear main and/or front transmission seal.
 
And you guys aren't finding marks on the flywheels because they are neutral 
 balanced - and if they weren't to start with (MG had pretty wide 
variations as  far as balance is concerned) they will be after the balancing has been 
 done.  No particular orientation vis a vis the crankshaft is  necessary.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 20/06/2010 4:09:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
msjeffcock at eastlink.ca writes:

Another  question: should there have been a gasket between the transmission 
and engine?  I had a fair bit of oil inside my bell housing, there was 
nothing to act as a  gasket? Would a very thing film of silicone be in  order?

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 20 18:54:11 2010
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 17:54:11 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] engine question
In-Reply-To: <c6013.5b437abb.394ffb74@aol.com>
References: <c6013.5b437abb.394ffb74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb10dc$431a55c0$c94f0140$@net>

For what it's worth, in one of the Mark Evans "An MG is Born" episodes, one
where the engine had come back from the machine shop, the place had balanced
the crank, flywheel, and clutch plate as a unit.  Mark references the
balance marks on all three in the episode as I recall.

Ron King
'71 MGB


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of WSpohn4 at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 4:17 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine question

No, there is no gasket there. Any oil in the bellhousing will have escaped  
past a defective rear main and/or front transmission seal.
 
And you guys aren't finding marks on the flywheels because they are neutral 
 balanced - and if they weren't to start with (MG had pretty wide 
variations as  far as balance is concerned) they will be after the balancing
has been 
 done.  No particular orientation vis a vis the crankshaft is  necessary.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 20/06/2010 4:09:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
msjeffcock at eastlink.ca writes:

Another  question: should there have been a gasket between the transmission 
and engine?  I had a fair bit of oil inside my bell housing, there was 
nothing to act as a  gasket? Would a very thing film of silicone be in
order?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ronking at sbcglobal.net

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 20 21:59:08 2010
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 22:59:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] engine question
In-Reply-To: <000001cb10dc$431a55c0$c94f0140$@net>
References: <c6013.5b437abb.394ffb74@aol.com>
	<000001cb10dc$431a55c0$c94f0140$@net>
Message-ID: <4C1EE38C.6040009@sbcglobal.net>

It is done all the time in street rod circles.  It isn't really a good 
idea for street engines though.  If everything is balanced as a unit, 
any clutch or flywheel work will mean a complete engine tear-down.  No 
big deal for a race engine that will be apart at least a couple of times 
a season anyway but you won't be happy when you have to tear down the 
engine on your daily driver to balance everything when you blow the 
clutch.  They might try to charge you more, but it isn't that much more 
to balance each part separately.  BTDT.  My wife had the smoothest 
running 267 V8 Chevy Malibu.  I had free run of the machine shop and 
everything was ported, polished and balanced when it actually only 
needed a ring job.  All it cost was my time since it was apart anyway.  
Great grocery getter until it was T-boned by an 80-year-old in a Buick :(.
Charles Hill

Ron King wrote:
> For what it's worth, in one of the Mark Evans "An MG is Born" episodes, one
> where the engine had come back from the machine shop, the place had balanced
> the crank, flywheel, and clutch plate as a unit.  Mark references the
> balance marks on all three in the episode as I recall.
>
> Ron King
> '71 MGB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun 21 02:50:51 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 09:50:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] engine question
References: <c6013.5b437abb.394ffb74@aol.com>
	<000001cb10dc$431a55c0$c94f0140$@net>
Message-ID: <29A49D3AC61248E98EE0AA9ABEEAB661@paul>

Speaking of which, you may not know that Mark's professional occupation is a 
vet!  He's had a couple of series on UK TV recently dissecting large animals 
to see how they work, last week it was a lion, and he had the bright idea of 
connecting an air-line to its voice-box to see if he could make it roar.  It 
did.

----- Original Message ----- 
> For what it's worth, in one of the Mark Evans "An MG is Born" episodes... 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun 21 02:46:34 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 09:46:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG flywheel. Is there balance in our MG flywheels?
References: <360469176.5908081277066508801.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2E905298A75743DC8F687C6E0228AB1F@paul>

It's good practice to reassemble things as they came apart to avoid the risk 
of introducing problems.  But if a flywheel (or crank) is balanced 
separately, with neutral balance as they should be, they can be fitted 
anyhow, and you wouldn't expect there to be any marks as what would they 
mark?  Same with prop-shafts, the manuals make great play of marking the 
flanges so they can be refitted in the same orientation, but as the shaft is 
balanced off car it should be capable of being fitted to the flanges in any 
orientation without any ill effects.  However if *dismantling* a propshaft, 
you must mark all four pieces to ensure correct reassembly as otherwise you 
could well upset the balance, as well as getting yokes in the correct 
relationship.  Ironically the manuals only mention the yoke orientation, but 
there are still two ways of doing that for each pair, as well as the sliding 
joint.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Is there balance in our MG flywheels? Years ago I had the engine to my MGA 
> balanced, with the flywheel turned and a different ring gear installed.
...
> I could find no markings on this flywheel for instalation either.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun 21 04:47:22 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:47:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] engine question
References: <360469176.5908081277066508801.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<02fd01cb10c2$b333b000$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <826444AC427C4B61A17CD5BEBE908195@paul>

There are two parts to this, one is the insertion of the drive gear into the 
crankcase, which can be done in as many ways as there are teeth on the gear, 
and the other is internally to the distributor as the two halves of the 
shaft can be assembled in either of two orientations.  John Twist has given 
instruction on how to insert the gear, but to do this the engine has to be 
turned to a particular position, and if you are going by the timing gears 
the Workshop Manual is confusing and Haynes is incorrect.  No 1 piston has 
to be at TDC on its compression stroke, and going by the timing gears (e.g. 
if the rockers and pushrods haven't been installed yet)  the cam gear dimple 
has to be top right and not adjacent to the crank gear dimple, i.e. one full 
turn of the crank away from the positions for installing the gears and 
chain.  With that done, or looking at the rockers, Twist says:

"Thread a LONG 5/16"-24 stud into the centre of the distributor drive gear 
(find the stud in the air cleaner assy, twin SU models). After THROUGHLY 
CLEANING AND GREASING THE GEAR AND HOUSING, drop the gear into the engine, 
keyway offset below horizontal, large half of the driving dog upmost, with 
the keyway 9:00 to 3:00. As the gear drops into place, it will rotate 
anti-clockwise and set in at about 2:00-8:00. The rotor should then face 
1-2:00."

So the distributor should be assembled the same, i.e. with the dog aligned 
with the gear slot, the rotor should be point to 1 to 2 o'clock.

No gasket between engine and bellhousing, their shouldn't be oil in there to 
keep in, and there are other holes letting stuff out (and in) anyway.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Another issue is the distributor...how do I ensure it is correctly
> oriented and not 180 off?

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Jun 21 07:40:05 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 07:40:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs]  OT - tornado
In-Reply-To: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
References: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit
yesterday with 2" hail chunks. My Bs are all in the garage except my
67BGT which was in the driveway, exposed. It survived undamaged but as
the hail subsided, my wife tells me to come to the back door as a
tornado was forming in the darkened sky. At first it was just clouds
swirling in an anti-clockwise manner but as soon as the distinct funnel
formed, I ran and grabbed my camera and took pictures as the seven
minute event unfolded. My house is on a side of a hill so I only saw
part of it and it appeared headed our way. My wife and two neighbors
took refuge in our basement while I watched the event unfold into a
narrow funnel and then breaking up. At one point, chunks were swirling
in the air from our convention center about 1/2 mile away which was
destroyed. When the tornado broke up, debris fell over the yard, mostly
lighter insulation. Several businesses were destroyed. Access to that
area was a bit limited so I'll probably walk over and take pictures
later today. But here is the tornado from funnel to end in sequence:

http://www.interback.net/tornado/billings_mt_tornado.htm

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Mon Jun 21 09:00:38 2010
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:00:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <4C1F7E96.5070502@camden.rutgers.edu>

Wow, David, rather brave of you to stay outside. Brilliant pictures.
Thank you.
Bill Saidel
BMCSNJ

Councill, David wrote:
> This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit
> yesterday with 2" hail chunks. My Bs are all in the garage except my
> 67BGT which was in the driveway, exposed. It survived undamaged but as
> the hail subsided, my wife tells me to come to the back door as a
> tornado was forming in the darkened sky. At first it was just clouds
> swirling in an anti-clockwise manner but as soon as the distinct funnel
> formed, I ran and grabbed my camera and took pictures as the seven
> minute event unfolded. My house is on a side of a hill so I only saw
> part of it and it appeared headed our way. My wife and two neighbors
> took refuge in our basement while I watched the event unfold into a
> narrow funnel and then breaking up. At one point, chunks were swirling
> in the air from our convention center about 1/2 mile away which was
> destroyed. When the tornado broke up, debris fell over the yard, mostly
> lighter insulation. Several businesses were destroyed. Access to that
> area was a bit limited so I'll probably walk over and take pictures
> later today. But here is the tornado from funnel to end in sequence:
>
> http://www.interback.net/tornado/billings_mt_tornado.htm
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Mon Jun 21 09:10:05 2010
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:10:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <7B19ABC0972B400887DD114828F86DC5@RickPC>

David

Good to hear no damage to your property or to your MGs or for that matter to 
you and yours. Great pics btw.

Rick
 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 9:40
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado


> This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit
> yesterday with 2" hail chunks. My Bs are all in the garage except my
> 67BGT which was in the driveway, exposed. It survived undamaged but as
> the hail subsided, my wife tells me to come to the back door as a
> tornado was forming in the darkened sky. At first it was just clouds
> swirling in an anti-clockwise manner but as soon as the distinct funnel
> formed, I ran and grabbed my camera and took pictures as the seven
> minute event unfolded. My house is on a side of a hill so I only saw
> part of it and it appeared headed our way. My wife and two neighbors
> took refuge in our basement while I watched the event unfold into a
> narrow funnel and then breaking up. At one point, chunks were swirling
> in the air from our convention center about 1/2 mile away which was
> destroyed. When the tornado broke up, debris fell over the yard, mostly
> lighter insulation. Several businesses were destroyed. Access to that
> area was a bit limited so I'll probably walk over and take pictures
> later today. But here is the tornado from funnel to end in sequence:
>
> http://www.interback.net/tornado/billings_mt_tornado.htm
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 21 09:13:46 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 08:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <101187.72076.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Holy crap! How close do you think it was to your house??

Glad everyone is okay there (including the B's!)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, June 21, 2010 9:40:05 AM
Subject: [Mgs]  OT - tornado

This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit
yesterday with 2" hail chunks. My Bs are all in the garage except my
67BGT which was in the driveway, exposed. It survived undamaged but as
the hail subsided, my wife tells me to come to the back door as a
tornado was forming in the darkened sky. At first it was just clouds
swirling in an anti-clockwise manner but as soon as the distinct funnel
formed, I ran and grabbed my camera and took pictures as the seven
minute event unfolded. My house is on a side of a hill so I only saw
part of it and it appeared headed our way. My wife and two neighbors
took refuge in our basement while I watched the event unfold into a
narrow funnel and then breaking up. At one point, chunks were swirling
in the air from our convention center about 1/2 mile away which was
destroyed. When the tornado broke up, debris fell over the yard, mostly
lighter insulation. Several businesses were destroyed. Access to that
area was a bit limited so I'll probably walk over and take pictures
later today. But here is the tornado from funnel to end in sequence:

http://www.interback.net/tornado/billings_mt_tornado.htm

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From atweditor at aol.com  Mon Jun 21 09:30:55 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:30:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <8CCDF6DE004451D-12AC-1AD09@webmail-m074.sysops.aol.com>

 Close call! Glad you, your family, and most importantly, your MGs, are all
OK.

Jay Donoghue
72B-GT
66 Mustang








-----Original Message-----
From: Councill, David <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 21, 2010 9:40 am
Subject: [Mgs]  OT - tornado


This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit

yesterday with 2" hail chunks. My Bs are all in the garage except my

67BGT which was in the driveway, exposed. It survived undamaged but as

the hail subsided, my wife tells me to come to the back door as a

tornado was forming in the darkened sky. At first it was just clouds

swirling in an anti-clockwise manner but as soon as the distinct funnel

formed, I ran and grabbed my camera and took pictures as the seven

minute event unfolded. My house is on a side of a hill so I only saw

part of it and it appeared headed our way. My wife and two neighbors

took refuge in our basement while I watched the event unfold into a

narrow funnel and then breaking up. At one point, chunks were swirling

in the air from our convention center about 1/2 mile away which was

destroyed. When the tornado broke up, debris fell over the yard, mostly

lighter insulation. Several businesses were destroyed. Access to that

area was a bit limited so I'll probably walk over and take pictures

later today. But here is the tornado from funnel to end in sequence:



http://www.interback.net/tornado/billings_mt_tornado.htm



David Councill

64 B

67 BGT

72 B

_______________________________________________



Mgs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Jun 21 09:51:46 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 09:51:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado
In-Reply-To: <101187.72076.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<101187.72076.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E6@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I thought it was closer than it really was and it looked like it was headed
straight for the house. But I also was pretty sure it was at least a few
minutes away so getting to the basement was no problem. The tornado sound I
could hear was faint enough to indicate a bit of distance and time. In
reality, it was a bit further east than I thought where it was hitting ground
(pictures are looking due south) and its travel was still in the direction
taking it towards or near the house when it dissipated. Still, it was at least
a < mile away when that happened and still on the other side of the hill.



I probably should mention my last tornado encounter, about 25 years ago, when
a tornado hit the coal mine I was working at, damaging part of the
administration building. But it was right after work so I was about 5-10 miles
away, lying on the ground reattaching the exhaust that had come loose on my
71BGT. The weather was less stormy but I was in an area of total exposure and
no shelter, oblivious to the event as it passed. So in that case, all I saw
was the carnage and there were no pictures of the event AFAIK.



David



From: Dan DiBiase [mailto:d_dibiase at yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 9:14 AM
To: Councill, David; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OT - tornado



Holy crap! How close do you think it was to your house??

Glad everyone is okay there (including the B's!)



Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________

From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, June 21, 2010 9:40:05 AM
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado

This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit
yesterday with 2" hail chunks. My Bs are all in the garage except my
67BGT which was in the driveway, exposed. It survived undamaged but as
the hail subsided, my wife tells me to come to the back door as a
tornado was forming in the darkened sky. At first it was just clouds
swirling in an anti-clockwise manner but as soon as the distinct funnel
formed, I ran and grabbed my camera and took pictures as the seven
minute event unfolded. My house is on a side of a hill so I only saw
part of it and it appeared headed our way. My wife and two neighbors
took refuge in our basement while I watched the event unfold into a
narrow funnel and then breaking up. At one point, chunks were swirling
in the air from our convention center about 1/2 mile away which was
destroyed. When the tornado broke up, debris fell over the yard, mostly
lighter insulation. Several businesses were destroyed. Access to that
area was a bit limited so I'll probably walk over and take pictures
later today. But here is the tornado from funnel to end in sequence:

http://www.interback.net/tornado/billings_mt_tornado.htm

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jun 21 10:36:13 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 02:06:13 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <BE9206C8-3C97-4D3F-9B76-63641A72D6C5@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <CF14974F-10D1-4E1A-BBE5-6B4D87EBBD31@erickson.on.net>

On 21/06/2010, at 11:10 PM, Councill, David wrote:

> This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit
> yesterday with 2" hail chunks.


Glad to hear you are OK, David.

They showed the "Finger of God" on TV here.  The Convention Centre got
obliterated!

Very scary stuff.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 21 16:53:40 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 15:53:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Actually worked on the B
Message-ID: <C8453B84.2A27C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Or tinkered, is more like it.

I rejiggered (technical term) the ad hoc front muffler hanger, figuring out
how to get some rubber into it to keep it from vibrating loose. This is a
hanger right at the front of the front muffler, needed because the welds
cracked on the muffler nipple, letting the muffler body rotate and sag. Yes,
I could have it welded up, but that would require taking it to a shop, and
actually spending money. The solution consists of a perforated metal strap
wrapped around the pipe, screwed to a small L-bracket flattened to a shallow
V, attached to an existing hole in the frame via a wall anchor, insulated
with a rubber sway bar end link bushing and flat washer.

Then I tried to fit a speedo cable right-angle drive to the tranny, to see
if that would let me run the cable in such a way that it wouldn't bind up
and maybe the needle would remain somewhat stable. But there was no way it
was going to fit -- there wasn't enough clearance to the tunnel wall. Not to
mention it's almost impossible to get enough fingers in there to thread the
fitting if there was room. The right-angle drive is off the old 3-syncro
tranny -- I was trying to fit it to the 4-syncro OD tranny. But no go. If
the whole tranny was out of the way, perhaps a well-placed sledgehammer blow
would solve the problem, but maybe not -- it's more or less directly above
the permanent crossmember, therefore a tough reach in any circumstances.

Then I went back to the distributor and finally got it indexed correctly.
This time, Barney's procedure worked right off, which was good but odd,
because last time I thought I did exactly the same thing and it wound up a
tooth out. It doesn't run any different, but it's a lot easier to tighten
the nut, pop and fasten the cap, and run the vacuum hose, when the dizzy is
in the correct orientation.

I also tightened up the rear bumper, which seemed to have gotten loose,
probably from repeated blows from park-by-feel nitwits. It really needs to
be pulled out a half-inch or so, but the nuts resisted turning so much that
I thought I'd leave that for another day, when I have time to let them soak
in PB Blaster.



--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Jun 21 21:01:37 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 22:01:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG flywheel. Is there balance in our MG flywheels?
References: <360469176.5908081277066508801.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <008a01cb11b7$3b63e180$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

MG flywheels are marked . Look around the edge next to the ring gear. There 
will be
1 / 4  stampped into it, sometimes hard to see. This marking aligns with 
numbers
1 and 4  pistons, i.e. when the number one and four pistons are at the top 
of the cylinder,
the mark on the flywheel should also be up. If there are holes for two 
alignment pins, it should have two.
Ron Sanborn
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cyberemp at comcast.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG flywheel. Is there balance in our MG flywheels?


> your note turns up a question that has engaged me for some time.
> Is there balance in our MG flywheels? Years ago I had the engine to my MGA 
> balanced, with the flywheel turned and a different ring gear installed.
> There were no marks or instructions on the orientation of the flywheel for 
> installation.
> Recently I had the balance of the flywheel of a later (76-80) MG checked, 
> and was told that it was not a perfect, or neutral balance.
> I could find no markings on this flywheel for instalation either.
> Is it possible that this variance is due to the motor involved? 3 main 
> bearing verses 5 main bearing?
> When rebuilding the engine of my first car, a 1967 Ford Cortina GT, I was 
> told by my my mentor to make small marks on the flywheel and on the 
> crankshaft end so that I could reinstall the flywheel in the same 
> orientation, in the hope that the original assemblers in the factory had 
> known what they were doing. He said this with a smile, indicating a bit of 
> doubt as to the attention given to this matter.
> So I offer this question to you, my fellow enthusiasts. Is there balance 
> in our flywheels?
> Eric.
> 46 MG-TC
> 59 MGA
> 65 MGB
> 70 MGB
> 71 MGB
> So many cars, so little parking.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Jun 22 00:00:09 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 01:00:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] OT - tornado
Message-ID: <4C205169.9060304@comcast.net>

Dave,

Glad you and your family are okay. I've been through three and a half of 
them and they aren't fun. The ones I've been through have made me think 
about where to buy a house. I don't know where you are, Dave, but buying 
a house on the windward side of a hill from the climatic prevailing 
winds is a good idea. I've had two of them jump over my house and land 
on the other side and move on. Sheer luck I was living where I was. If 
you're living in tornado country it's something to think about.

Now I live in flood country. Nashville. Thankful again, we happened to 
buy a house 200 ft. over the level of Percy Priest Lake. If the water 
gets as high as us, well, hell, there ain't no Nashville left to worry 
about! We're all on our own and in boats. Of course, if a tornado comes 
through, we'll be sitting targets because we're on the top of the ridge ...

You pick your battles. Now I'm trying to sell a Series I XJ6 that lives 
in flood country. Nashville. Waddya think my chances are? And it's 
really a nice car. MG content: the XJ6 kept me getting to work while the 
B was under the knife for resto a few years ago. And last week I fried 
the electrical system in the B while changing out the brake light 
pressure switch. Guess what got me to work. I know it's not very 
flattering MG content, but it's MG content and it wasn't the MG's fault. 
It was mine.

Glenn







> Subject: [Mgs]  OT - tornado
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> 	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D7E4 at EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> This is a bit off topic but might be of interest. A hail storm hit
> yesterday with 2" hail chunks. My Bs are all in the garage except my
> 67BGT which was in the driveway, exposed. It survived undamaged but as

etc. Rest deleted for brevity.
-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From dontoy at comcast.net  Thu Jun 24 13:37:56 2010
From: dontoy at comcast.net (DONALD TOY)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:37:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tappet cover Question
Message-ID: <B49E68FC991B4E0DA47DD68888AA7988@DONALDTOY>

Oh Wise Sages,
I'm trying to get rid of the chrome air cleaners and aluminum valve and tappet
covers on my 1954 MG and bring it back to a more original configuration. The
breather pipe from the tappet cover has a strap on it. Mine is at the very end
of the pipe, but it looks like it can be loosened and moved. To what does the
strap attach? I am fearful that if just left clamped at the tappet cover it
will find a way of vibrating loose and end up being one of those interesting
bits of metal I find on my morning runs. (I can never leave a good bungy cord,
or 9/16th's along the road by themselves). Thanks in advance.
Don Toy
1954 MG & Various Swedish Oddities

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 25 11:44:46 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 10:44:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
Message-ID: <C84A391E.2A42F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I was at Target yesterday and stumbled upon a cap that turned out to be the
best solution yet for staying on my head at highway speeds in the MGB.

I have had trouble finding anything that seemed really secure, for a couple
of reasons: I'm tall, so the top of my head is exposed to the slipstream; my
head is large, so most caps aren't full enough in the crown to pull down to
my ear level for a secure grip; and my hair is long and full, tending to
slip out and flap around, undermining the cap's already tenuous grip.

This cap was labeled "Men's Military Cap" ($12.99), and I suppose it
resembles the type known as a forage cap, with a high crown and a shortish
bill. It also reminds me of a traditional railway engineers cap. It's
resemblance to either of these two is somewhat diminished by the fabric,
which is neither olive drab, camo, or striped -- it's a dull blue tartan.
I'm guessing this was intended to evoke a grunge sensibility, for youth
appeal. I can't really say if this was successful.

But the reason this cap is so stable in the high-turbulence environment of
the MG cockpit is because it has elastic along the back, so it stays snug.
The short, stiff, forward-raked bill also aids stability (as opposed to a
long baseball-style bill, which catches the wind, generates lift and even
vibrates).

I find driving is far more pleasant and less stressful if you aren't
constantly snatching at your cap. I thought I'd share this discovery for the
benefit of others who might be similarly afflicted.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Jun 25 16:50:49 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 18:50:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <C84A391E.2A42F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C84A391E.2A42F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1OSHqU-0007Bs-82@eta.look.ca>

Max,

I am surprised you could not get a traditional British drivers cap to 
fit and stay put.  The good ones have a sort of a built in back neck 
strap that grabs the back of your head.  However, in todays rush to 
consume more and quicker they make them too small.  This means they 
sit on your head but do not have the back of the neck grab because it 
is too short there.   I am very happy to have two given to me with my 
Maser.....yea yea - I know it is not British.......... except for the 
rear axle, gauges and brakes.


At 01:44 PM 6/25/2010, Max Heim wrote:
>I was at Target yesterday and stumbled upon a cap that turned out to be the
>best solution yet for staying on my head at highway speeds in the MGB.
>
>I have had trouble finding anything that seemed really secure, for a couple
>of reasons: I'm tall, so the top of my head is exposed to the slipstream; my
>head is large, so most caps aren't full enough in the crown to pull down to
>my ear level for a secure grip; and my hair is long and full, tending to
>slip out and flap around, undermining the cap's already tenuous grip.
>
>This cap was labeled "Men's Military Cap" ($12.99), and I suppose it
>resembles the type known as a forage cap, with a high crown and a shortish
>bill. It also reminds me of a traditional railway engineers cap. It's
>resemblance to either of these two is somewhat diminished by the fabric,
>which is neither olive drab, camo, or striped -- it's a dull blue tartan.
>I'm guessing this was intended to evoke a grunge sensibility, for youth
>appeal. I can't really say if this was successful.
>
>But the reason this cap is so stable in the high-turbulence environment of
>the MG cockpit is because it has elastic along the back, so it stays snug.
>The short, stiff, forward-raked bill also aids stability (as opposed to a
>long baseball-style bill, which catches the wind, generates lift and even
>vibrates).
>
>I find driving is far more pleasant and less stressful if you aren't
>constantly snatching at your cap. I thought I'd share this discovery for the
>benefit of others who might be similarly afflicted.
>
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From Allan.Thompson at ntlworld.com  Fri Jun 25 17:49:41 2010
From: Allan.Thompson at ntlworld.com (Allan Thompson)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 00:49:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing
Message-ID: <94E80F69D7AF493D9C8D9BB78C8AC15A@UKDesktop>

Hi there,
 
Over time the rubber housing into which the end of the MGB sun visor fits
becomes loose and the visor drops out.
 
Does anyone have a fix? Is there a better way of securing the end of the
visor until movement is needed for top erection..  or whatever?
 
1977 MGB Roadster
 
Allan

From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Jun 25 18:41:34 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:41:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing
References: <94E80F69D7AF493D9C8D9BB78C8AC15A@UKDesktop>
Message-ID: <004601cb14c8$542cd4b0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

The sun visor anchor is avalible new from many MG parts suppliers.
They are fastened to the windshield frame with two pop-rivits and a
small backing washer.
Moss number 233-930  $5.25 each.
Replacing with new is the only way I have found to cure the problem
of the visor falling loose.
Ron Sanborn
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Thompson" <Allan.Thompson at ntlworld.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 6:49 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing


> Hi there,
>
> Over time the rubber housing into which the end of the MGB sun visor fits
> becomes loose and the visor drops out.
>
> Does anyone have a fix? Is there a better way of securing the end of the
> visor until movement is needed for top erection..  or whatever?
>
> 1977 MGB Roadster
>
> Allan
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Fri Jun 25 18:45:44 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 18:45:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing
In-Reply-To: <94E80F69D7AF493D9C8D9BB78C8AC15A@UKDesktop>
References: <94E80F69D7AF493D9C8D9BB78C8AC15A@UKDesktop>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0705BC31@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

The best fix would be to replace them.

I replaced mine several years ago when I restored my 72B. I don't see
them listed in the Moss catalog and I don't think they were available
then either. I bought mine new on Ebay from a UK distributer for a few
dollars each. You could try a few UK dealers. I recently bought other
parts from Brown and Gammons with quick service -
http://www.ukmgparts.com
They do list some sun visor brackets but no pictures, looks like $8 USD
if it's the one.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Allan Thompson
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 5:50 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing

Hi there,

Over time the rubber housing into which the end of the MGB sun visor
fits becomes loose and the visor drops out.

Does anyone have a fix? Is there a better way of securing the end of the
visor until movement is needed for top erection..  or whatever?

1977 MGB Roadster

Allan

From dwillner at ptd.net  Fri Jun 25 18:53:42 2010
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 20:53:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing
References: <94E80F69D7AF493D9C8D9BB78C8AC15A@UKDesktop>
Message-ID: <C402AF098F39400CA059FA12E5912CF3@valued9cfc0b6f>

Before I replaced the rubber on mine, I took a small nail (brad) and drilled 
a slightly smaller hole towards the edge and thru the rubber (with the visor 
in place) and slide the brad in place...worked pretty well, kinda easy to 
remove if you have to and if you use a black brad, you can barely see it. I 
guess you could use a cotter pin as well...

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA Victor Special


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Thompson" <Allan.Thompson at ntlworld.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 7:49 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing


> Hi there,
>
> Over time the rubber housing into which the end of the MGB sun visor fits
> becomes loose and the visor drops out.
>
> Does anyone have a fix? Is there a better way of securing the end of the
> visor until movement is needed for top erection..  or whatever?
>
> 1977 MGB Roadster
>
> Allan
> _______________________________________________

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 26 17:06:03 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 16:06:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <E1OSHqU-0007Bs-82@eta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That's exactly the problem --the ones I have found are too small, with not
enough extension down the back of the head.  I have two that are OK when my
hair is short, but when it grows out a little, they slip up and instantly
get loose. It doesn't help that my skull is particularly long, and the
undercut in the back is very low down.

I am also sitting a long way back from the windscreen, so my head is not
protected at all -- in fact it is in the center of the maelstrom of
turbulence, to judge from what happens when the cap comes off (hair whipping
wildly in every direction). It is not a steady pressure of wind that the cap
has to withstand -- it is violent buffeting from all sides.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/25/10 3:50 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> Max,
> 
> I am surprised you could not get a traditional British drivers cap to
> fit and stay put.  The good ones have a sort of a built in back neck
> strap that grabs the back of your head.  However, in todays rush to
> consume more and quicker they make them too small.  This means they
> sit on your head but do not have the back of the neck grab because it
> is too short there.   I am very happy to have two given to me with my
> Maser.....yea yea - I know it is not British.......... except for the
> rear axle, gauges and brakes.
> 
> 
> At 01:44 PM 6/25/2010, Max Heim wrote:
>> I was at Target yesterday and stumbled upon a cap that turned out to be the
>> best solution yet for staying on my head at highway speeds in the MGB.
>> 
>> I have had trouble finding anything that seemed really secure, for a couple
>> of reasons: I'm tall, so the top of my head is exposed to the slipstream; my
>> head is large, so most caps aren't full enough in the crown to pull down to
>> my ear level for a secure grip; and my hair is long and full, tending to
>> slip out and flap around, undermining the cap's already tenuous grip.
>> 
>> This cap was labeled "Men's Military Cap" ($12.99), and I suppose it
>> resembles the type known as a forage cap, with a high crown and a shortish
>> bill. It also reminds me of a traditional railway engineers cap. It's
>> resemblance to either of these two is somewhat diminished by the fabric,
>> which is neither olive drab, camo, or striped -- it's a dull blue tartan.
>> I'm guessing this was intended to evoke a grunge sensibility, for youth
>> appeal. I can't really say if this was successful.
>> 
>> But the reason this cap is so stable in the high-turbulence environment of
>> the MG cockpit is because it has elastic along the back, so it stays snug.
>> The short, stiff, forward-raked bill also aids stability (as opposed to a
>> long baseball-style bill, which catches the wind, generates lift and even
>> vibrates).
>> 
>> I find driving is far more pleasant and less stressful if you aren't
>> constantly snatching at your cap. I thought I'd share this discovery for the
>> benefit of others who might be similarly afflicted.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> barrie at look.ca
> 705--721-9060 

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Jun 26 18:08:00 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:08:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor end Rubber housing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1277575203.15377.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1277575203.15377.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6EC3EA4845B347E6B25698E6FFB1A6E5@EricJRussellPC>

I put a small spring tensioned clothes pin over the rubber bit - parallel to 
the windscreen frame. I leave it there when I'm not driving the 'B. It helps 
keep the rubber from spreading and thus loosening its grip on the visor. It 
has tightened up the rubber bit such that the visors stay in place without 
them when I am driving the car (although they can be left in place even 
then).

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 
> Over time the rubber housing into which the end of the MGB sun visor fits
> becomes loose and the visor drops out.
>
> Does anyone have a fix? Is there a better way of securing the end of the
> visor until movement is needed for top erection..  or whatever?

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jun 26 20:43:22 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 12:13:22 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>

On 27/06/2010, at 8:36 AM, Max Heim wrote:

> That's exactly the problem --the ones I have found are too small, with not
> enough extension down the back of the head.  I have two that are OK when my
> hair is short, but when it grows out a little, they slip up and instantly
> get loose. It doesn't help that my skull is particularly long, and the
> undercut in the back is very low down.


My suggestion....  A BEANIE!  Never comes off.

;-)

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jun 26 21:05:20 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 22:05:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>
References: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <4C26BFF0.3060508@justbrits.com>

<< ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>

Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:

With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???

Anon

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jun 26 21:15:06 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 12:45:06 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <4C26BFF0.3060508@justbrits.com>
References: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>
	<4C26BFF0.3060508@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <E5C12546-DFFD-488C-8A53-449536BCDCB1@erickson.on.net>

On 27/06/2010, at 12:35 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:

> << ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>
> 
> Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:
> 
> With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???
> 

I am not sure how you put a propeller on one of these  :-)

me

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jun 26 21:18:36 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 12:48:36 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <E5C12546-DFFD-488C-8A53-449536BCDCB1@erickson.on.net>
References: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>
	<4C26BFF0.3060508@justbrits.com>
	<E5C12546-DFFD-488C-8A53-449536BCDCB1@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <FA098D89-902B-4862-B8A1-B323705B881A@erickson.on.net>

On 27/06/2010, at 12:35 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:

> << ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>
> 
> Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:
> 
> With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???
> 

I am not sure how you put a propeller on one of these  :-)


http://www.mgccsa.org.au/Photos-%20Regalia%20Large/MGCC-Reg-beanie.lge.jpg


me

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Jun 27 11:37:56 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 13:37:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <FA098D89-902B-4862-B8A1-B323705B881A@erickson.on.net>
References: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>
	<4C26BFF0.3060508@justbrits.com>
	<E5C12546-DFFD-488C-8A53-449536BCDCB1@erickson.on.net>
	<FA098D89-902B-4862-B8A1-B323705B881A@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <E1OSvpp-0005K1-Kt@epsilon.look.ca>

Gentlemen,

There is confusion here!  A toque is what those three gentlemen were 
wearing and in no way are such things furnished with a 
propeller.  Propellers are found on beanies not toques.   However, 
due to our present day inability to spell or be dictionaryly 
(ouff!)  correct, the term beanie has been applied to the 
toque.   But examine the structure of each piece of head gear and you 
will see they are very different.



At 11:18 PM 6/26/2010, Eric Erickson wrote:
>On 27/06/2010, at 12:35 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:
>
> > << ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>
> >
> > Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:
> >
> > With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???
> >
>
>I am not sure how you put a propeller on one of these  :-)
>
>
>http://www.mgccsa.org.au/Photos-%20Regalia%20Large/MGCC-Reg-beanie.lge.jpg
>
>
>me
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Jun 27 12:13:45 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 13:13:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <E1OSvpp-0005K1-Kt@epsilon.look.ca>
References: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>
	<4C26BFF0.3060508@justbrits.com>
	<E5C12546-DFFD-488C-8A53-449536BCDCB1@erickson.on.net>
	<FA098D89-902B-4862-B8A1-B323705B881A@erickson.on.net>
	<E1OSvpp-0005K1-Kt@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4C2794D9.1000804@justbrits.com>

<< There is confusion here! >>

THANK YOU, Mr. Robinson !!  You 'saved' me a bunch of HARD
work in doing all that typing !!! <VBG>

Apparently it would seem that our mate from Oz doesn't really
know what a beanie equipped with prop is which would be very
'understandable' as being in Oz would mean that the prop does
NOT rotate, but his body WOULD !!!!  

LOL !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ]

From charleyrob at gmail.com  Sun Jun 27 12:16:07 2010
From: charleyrob at gmail.com (Charley Robinson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 14:16:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <E1OSvpp-0005K1-Kt@epsilon.look.ca>
References: <C84BD5EB.2A466%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E2334E3B-E228-4766-A216-6F3AA00A78DC@erickson.on.net>
	<4C26BFF0.3060508@justbrits.com>
	<E5C12546-DFFD-488C-8A53-449536BCDCB1@erickson.on.net>
	<FA098D89-902B-4862-B8A1-B323705B881A@erickson.on.net>
	<E1OSvpp-0005K1-Kt@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <E82AD277-E3E2-465B-BADF-94E8F4856B3F@gmail.com>

The confusion continues:

here's the dictionary definition of a toque:

a woman's small hat, typically having a narrow, closely turned-up brim.
 historical a small cap or bonnet of such a type worn by a man or woman.
 a tall white hat with a full pouched crown, worn by chefs.
ORIGIN early 16th cent.: from French,
Charley Robinson

On Jun 27, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
> There is confusion here!  A toque is what those three gentlemen were wearing
and in no way are such things furnished with a propeller.  Propellers are
found on beanies not toques.   However, due to our present day inability to
spell or be dictionaryly (ouff!)  correct, the term beanie has been applied to
the toque.   But examine the structure of each piece of head gear and you will
see they are very different.
>
>
>
> At 11:18 PM 6/26/2010, Eric Erickson wrote:
>> On 27/06/2010, at 12:35 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:
>>
>> > << ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>
>> >
>> > Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:
>> >
>> > With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???
>> >
>>
>> I am not sure how you put a propeller on one of these  :-)
>>
>>
>> http://www.mgccsa.org.au/Photos-%20Regalia%20Large/MGCC-Reg-beanie.lge.jpg
>>
>>
>> me
>> _______________________________________________

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Sun Jun 27 15:19:32 2010
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 21:19:32 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
Message-ID: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>

C'mon guys.......those caps shown in the link are not beanies or tocques!
They're Stocking Caps
  I was issured one when I was in the Navy, 50 years ago.  Mine was wool, fit
tightly and itched like hell!
  And no, they won't come off during top down driving.

Phil Bacon  67 MGBGT

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Charley Robinson <charleyrob at gmail.com>
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Cc: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 14:16:07 -0400

The confusion continues:

here's the dictionary definition of a toque:

a woman's small hat, typically having a narrow, closely turned-up brim.
 historical a small cap or bonnet of such a type worn by a man or woman.
 a tall white hat with a full pouched crown, worn by chefs.
ORIGIN early 16th cent.: from French,
Charley Robinson

On Jun 27, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
> There is confusion here!  A toque is what those three gentlemen were
wearing
and in no way are such things furnished with a propeller.  Propellers are
found on beanies not toques.   However, due to our present day inability to
spell or be dictionaryly (ouff!)  correct, the term beanie has been applied
to
the toque.   But examine the structure of each piece of head gear and you
will
see they are very different.
>
>
>
> At 11:18 PM 6/26/2010, Eric Erickson wrote:
>> On 27/06/2010, at 12:35 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:
>>
>> > << ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>
>> >
>> > Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:
>> >
>> > With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???
>> >
>>
>> I am not sure how you put a propeller on one of these  :-)
>>
>>
>> http://www.mgccsa.org.au/Photos-%20Regalia%20Large/MGCC-Reg-beanie.lge.jpg
>>
>>
>> me
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pboldtrix at juno.com
____________________________________________________________
NOW: MacBook For $231.47?
Crazy low prices on new laptops w&#47; our unique auction system! Join now
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4c27c0af807839d7east01vuc

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Jun 27 16:04:20 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 18:04:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <E1OSzyM-0001IS-Iq@eta.look.ca>

Sorry, but toque refers to a whole plethora of woolen hats as it has 
been bandied around for many centuries.  The Navy probably never 
bothered to find the right name and "stocking caps" may have sounded 
sexy.  So Stocking Caps are still toques (or tuques in Canada)



At 05:19 PM 6/27/2010, Phil Bacon wrote:
>C'mon guys.......those caps shown in the link are not beanies or tocques!
>They're Stocking Caps
>   I was issured one when I was in the Navy, 50 years ago.  Mine was wool, fit
>tightly and itched like hell!
>   And no, they won't come off during top down driving.
>
>Phil Bacon  67 MGBGT
>
>---------- Original Message ----------
>From: Charley Robinson <charleyrob at gmail.com>
>To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
>Cc: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
>Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 14:16:07 -0400
>
>The confusion continues:
>
>here's the dictionary definition of a toque:
>
>a woman's small hat, typically having a narrow, closely turned-up brim.
>historical a small cap or bonnet of such a type worn by a man or woman.
>a tall white hat with a full pouched crown, worn by chefs.
>ORIGIN early 16th cent.: from French,
>Charley Robinson
>
>On Jun 27, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>
> > Gentlemen,
> >
> > There is confusion here!  A toque is what those three gentlemen were
>wearing
>and in no way are such things furnished with a propeller.  Propellers are
>found on beanies not toques.   However, due to our present day inability to
>spell or be dictionaryly (ouff!)  correct, the term beanie has been applied
>to
>the toque.   But examine the structure of each piece of head gear and you
>will
>see they are very different.
> >
> >
> >
> > At 11:18 PM 6/26/2010, Eric Erickson wrote:
> >> On 27/06/2010, at 12:35 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:
> >>
> >> > << ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>
> >> >
> >> > Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:
> >> >
> >> > With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???
> >> >
> >>
> >> I am not sure how you put a propeller on one of these  :-)
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.mgccsa.org.au/Photos-%20Regalia%20Large/MGCC-Reg-beanie.lge.jpg
> >>
> >>
> >> me
> >> _______________________________________________
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pboldtrix at juno.com
>____________________________________________________________
>NOW: MacBook For $231.47?
>Crazy low prices on new laptops w&#47; our unique auction system! Join now
>http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4c27c0af807839d7east01vuc
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 27 16:00:52 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 15:00:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <FA098D89-902B-4862-B8A1-B323705B881A@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <C84D1824.2A49F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

In the USA we would not call that a beanie. That would be a watch cap or
stocking cap. A beanie is almost like a yarmulke -- a shallow circular
skullcap.

http://www.geekculture.com/geekculturestore/webstore/beachballbeanie/makeyou
rheadhappy.jpg

In this photo the multicolored object at left front is a "beanie". Not the
propellor on the baseball cap at right (an unorthodox application).


Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/26/10 8:18 PM, Eric Erickson at eric at erickson.on.net wrote:

> On 27/06/2010, at 12:35 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:
> 
>> << ...A BEANIE! Never comes off. >>
>> 
>> Well Eric, somebody has gotta ask <smirk>:
>> 
>> With or without a propeller ???  Colour of said prop ???
>> 
> 
> I am not sure how you put a propeller on one of these  :-)
> 
> 
> http://www.mgccsa.org.au/Photos-%20Regalia%20Large/MGCC-Reg-beanie.lge.jpg
> 
> 
> me

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 27 16:23:02 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 15:23:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <123720.25028.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sun, 6/27/10, Phil Bacon <pboldtrix at juno.com> wrote:

> C'mon
guys.......those caps shown in
> the link are not beanies or tocques!
>
They're Stocking Caps
>   I was issured one when I was in the Navy, 50 years
>
ago.  Mine was wool, fit
> tightly and itched like hell!
>   And no, they
won't come off during top down
> driving.

When I think of a tuque (a toque is
a chef's hat), I think
of a coarsely knit wool hat, frequently with a poofy
ball
on top.  I associate them with parkas, sleds, snowball
fights, and Bob
and Doug McKenzie.

Up until a few months ago, I was also clear in my mind
that
a beanie was a king-size yarmulke with a plastic propeller
on top.
Definitely not knit.  Maybe made of felt or some
similar stiff fabric.

But
recently, I heard some colleagues describing a
finely-knit cap (like a
stocking cap), too short to
roll up the brim to any degree, of the type worn
by
rappers, etc., as a "beanie".  That was news to me.

The hats in the
picture look like stocking caps.  The
thing that sets a stocking cap off from
a tuque in my
experience is that it's woven much finer, like a woven
shirt. A
tuque is woven coarser, like a heavy sweater.
I suppose you could describe the
"beanie nouveau" as a
short, brimless stocking cap.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 27 16:29:33 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 15:29:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <123720.25028.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C84D1EDD.2A4A9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Interesting analysis <g>.

Personally, I had never heard the term "toque", but I don't live in the snow
belt.

The "beanie" used to be a form of mandatory fashion punishment inflicted on
college freshmen of an earlier age (pre-propellor). Now seen only as an
ironic statement of "geekdom", hence the term "propellorhead".


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/27/10 3:23 PM, David Breneman at david_breneman at yahoo.com wrote:

> --- On Sun, 6/27/10, Phil Bacon <pboldtrix at juno.com> wrote:
> 
>> C'mon
> guys.......those caps shown in
>> the link are not beanies or tocques!
>> 
> They're Stocking Caps
>>   I was issured one when I was in the Navy, 50 years
>> 
> ago.  Mine was wool, fit
>> tightly and itched like hell!
>>   And no, they
> won't come off during top down
>> driving.
> 
> When I think of a tuque (a toque is
> a chef's hat), I think
> of a coarsely knit wool hat, frequently with a poofy
> ball
> on top.  I associate them with parkas, sleds, snowball
> fights, and Bob
> and Doug McKenzie.
> 
> Up until a few months ago, I was also clear in my mind
> that
> a beanie was a king-size yarmulke with a plastic propeller
> on top.
> Definitely not knit.  Maybe made of felt or some
> similar stiff fabric.
> 
> But
> recently, I heard some colleagues describing a
> finely-knit cap (like a
> stocking cap), too short to
> roll up the brim to any degree, of the type worn
> by
> rappers, etc., as a "beanie".  That was news to me.
> 
> The hats in the
> picture look like stocking caps.  The
> thing that sets a stocking cap off from
> a tuque in my
> experience is that it's woven much finer, like a woven
> shirt. A
> tuque is woven coarser, like a heavy sweater.
> I suppose you could describe the
> "beanie nouveau" as a
> short, brimless stocking cap.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jun 27 18:05:07 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 18:05:07 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <C84D1EDD.2A4A9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C84D1EDD.2A4A9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4C27E733.8050206@bradakis.com>

I sort of remember a TV show about a kid and his dog that would
solve crimes and save the world every episode, and he wore a
beanie with a propeller.  Tom Terrific, maybe?  Hey, it was like
50 years ago.

Being into cooking, I think of toque as the big chef's hat.  Supposedly
100 pleats in it to represent the 100 ways to cook an egg.  Of course
if you ask 100 chefs how to make perfect scrambled eggs, you'll get
about 100 different answers.  But that has nothing to do with MGs,
I'll be quiet now.

mjb.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Jun 27 18:13:08 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 09:43:08 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <123720.25028.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <123720.25028.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C27E914.1080502@erickson.on.net>

I don't know what you guys are toque-ing (can I have some) and I 
certainly don't know what you are toque-ing about (or even tuque-ing 
about), but a beanie is a beanie is a beanie.

What should I doubt myself when those trying to educate me drive on the 
wrong side of the road, flush their toilets the wrong way and hell, half 
of you can't even spell the word colour correctly (can you say "colour 
supplement"?).

If in doubt, Google..

He is a company that makes its money out of beanies - you wouldn't think 
they would get it so wrong, would you.

http://www.capsonly.com.au/category/28

And a company called :  http://www.beanies.com.au/see.html

We are currently having a VERY cold Winter, so we are thinking about 
this warm headwear (the other day it got down to 2C).

So, my reccommendation stands.  If a cap blows off... wear a *BEANIE*.


Harrumph!   ;-)



Me

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Jun 27 22:06:31 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 21:06:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilLf5EEXCbbmT5NzmPndxXIQdmxGtXAHYGXyGSg@mail.gmail.com>

FTR a woolen stocking cap will come off of your head at about 125 MPH in a
1969 XKE convertible.
I managed to catch it right as it parted company with my head.
Rick
PS ask me what I told the cop that stopped me on that test drive
R

On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Phil Bacon <pboldtrix at juno.com> wrote:

>
>  And no, they won't come off during top down driving.

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Jun 27 22:12:51 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 21:12:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilLf5EEXCbbmT5NzmPndxXIQdmxGtXAHYGXyGSg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
	<AANLkTilLf5EEXCbbmT5NzmPndxXIQdmxGtXAHYGXyGSg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5C90EA22-8C09-4943-AD15-03D7353B1414@panix.com>

On Jun 27, 2010, at 9:06 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:

> PS ask me what I told the cop that stopped me on that test drive

OK, "What did you tell the cop that stopped you on the test drive?"

-- 
Aaron

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Jun 27 23:04:33 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 22:04:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <5C90EA22-8C09-4943-AD15-03D7353B1414@panix.com>
References: <20100627.171932.13919.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com>
	<AANLkTilLf5EEXCbbmT5NzmPndxXIQdmxGtXAHYGXyGSg@mail.gmail.com>
	<5C90EA22-8C09-4943-AD15-03D7353B1414@panix.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTill3lC6o369lHqccQusyNu7qSB2fkS28g5zzOzi@mail.gmail.com>

This was 1971  I had just finished a turn up on a 1969 XKE 4.2 E-type.  blue
in color.
I took the highway (99) out of town headed south.  top down and I booted
it.  Hard.
Back then this was a divided highway not a freeway so there were left turn
lanes to turn onto side roads.
Faster and faster I go.  115, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, (somewhere about here
my watch cap decides to go bye, bye) 125  and I pass a turn out where there
is a California Highway Patrol car waiting to turn left.
Shit.
Off the gas.  On the e-brake.  Down shift to 3rd ASAP.
cop catches up with me at about the time I get down to 85.  Pulls me over
"Why were you going so fast?"
"Sir, the customer complained of a high speed miss on this car."
"Did you have to go so damn fast?"
"Well he did say a high speed miss."
"OK, you turn this car around, and go back to work.  If I ever see you
again, you WILL get a ticket."
"Yes sir!"
He never caught me again!
fun times.
rick



On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 9:12 PM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote:

> On Jun 27, 2010, at 9:06 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
>
> > PS ask me what I told the cop that stopped me on that test drive
>
> OK, "What did you tell the cop that stopped you on the test drive?"
>
> --
> Aaron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Jun 28 08:58:42 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:58:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <4C27E733.8050206@bradakis.com>
References: <C84D1EDD.2A4A9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<4C27E733.8050206@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <E1OTGOq-0007AC-Ov@eta.look.ca>

The term toque can and is applied to chef hats


At 08:05 PM 6/27/2010, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>I sort of remember a TV show about a kid and his dog that would
>solve crimes and save the world every episode, and he wore a
>beanie with a propeller.  Tom Terrific, maybe?  Hey, it was like
>50 years ago.
>
>Being into cooking, I think of toque as the big chef's hat.  Supposedly
>100 pleats in it to represent the 100 ways to cook an egg.  Of course
>if you ask 100 chefs how to make perfect scrambled eggs, you'll get
>about 100 different answers.  But that has nothing to do with MGs,
>I'll be quiet now.
>
>mjb.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Jun 28 09:03:22 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 11:03:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <4C27E914.1080502@erickson.on.net>
References: <123720.25028.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4C27E914.1080502@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <E1OTGOr-0007AC-6Z@eta.look.ca>

Eric,

Of course they can get it wrong!  Remember that huge company that 
made cars and had to be bailed out - they got it wrong despite 
warnings over a twenty year period!



At 08:13 PM 6/27/2010, Eric wrote:
>I don't know what you guys are toque-ing (can I have some) and I 
>certainly don't know what you are toque-ing about (or even tuque-ing 
>about), but a beanie is a beanie is a beanie.
>
>What should I doubt myself when those trying to educate me drive on 
>the wrong side of the road, flush their toilets the wrong way and 
>hell, half of you can't even spell the word colour correctly (can 
>you say "colour supplement"?).
>
>If in doubt, Google..
>
>He is a company that makes its money out of beanies - you wouldn't 
>think they would get it so wrong, would you.
>
>http://www.capsonly.com.au/category/28
>
>And a company called :  http://www.beanies.com.au/see.html
>
>We are currently having a VERY cold Winter, so we are thinking about 
>this warm headwear (the other day it got down to 2C).
>
>So, my reccommendation stands.  If a cap blows off... wear a *BEANIE*.
>
>
>Harrumph!   ;-)
>
>
>
>Me
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 28 19:46:22 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 18:46:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTill3lC6o369lHqccQusyNu7qSB2fkS28g5zzOzi@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <589740.44220.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sun, 6/27/10, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:

> "Did
you have to go so damn fast?"
> "Well he did say a high speed miss."
> "OK,
you turn this car around, and go back to work. 
> If I ever see you again, you
WILL get a ticket."
> "Yes sir!"

Try to get that level of justice from a
robocop camera.

We're well into the age of Big Brother.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jun 28 20:04:50 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 11:34:50 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <589740.44220.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <589740.44220.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C2954C2.3070705@erickson.on.net>

David Breneman wrote:
> Try to get that level of justice from arobocop camera.

And they don't wear beanies, either!

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Jun 28 20:25:01 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 21:25:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
In-Reply-To: <589740.44220.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <589740.44220.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <18E44599-9C49-45DE-9D64-F5910B92C3E0@gmail.com>

The robocop was found unconstitutional in Minnesota, at least Minneapolis.

On Jun 28, 2010, at 8:46 PM, David Breneman wrote:

> --- On Sun, 6/27/10, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> "Did
> you have to go so damn fast?"
>> "Well he did say a high speed miss."
>> "OK,
> you turn this car around, and go back to work. 
>> If I ever see you again, you
> WILL get a ticket."
>> "Yes sir!"
> 
> Try to get that level of justice from a
> robocop camera.
> 
> We're well into the age of Big Brother.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Tue Jun 29 12:44:25 2010
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 18:44:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for service?
In-Reply-To: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

So this is what happens when we take our cars in for service? My brother bought an urban four wheel drive that had been "Jumped" off a freeway onramp by the dealer mechanics, bending the frame and "totaling" the truck. I'm sure the owner who took it in for servicing was thrilled to find out what happened to his baby the only time it was ever taken off road. 
Makes me think of "ferris Buellers day off" 



"Did 
you have to go so damn fast?" 
> "Well he did say a high speed miss." 
> "OK, 
you turn this car around, and go back to work. 
> If I ever see you again, you 
WILL get a ticket." 
> "Yes sir!" 

From vdiorio at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 29 15:26:48 2010
From: vdiorio at hotmail.com (vincent diorio)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 21:26:48 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] tonneaus
In-Reply-To: <18E44599-9C49-45DE-9D64-F5910B92C3E0@gmail.com>
References: <589740.44220.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<18E44599-9C49-45DE-9D64-F5910B92C3E0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY127-W16325ABA21EE71CE7E15FDAFCB0@phx.gbl>

I have a very good tonneauy cover but I have no idea what model it is from.  I
need one for a 1966 midget and will trade.  Any help?

> From: ptrmgb at gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 21:25:01 -0500
> To: david_breneman at yahoo.com
> CC: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ultimate "top down" cap?
>
> The robocop was found unconstitutional in Minnesota, at least Minneapolis.
>
> On Jun 28, 2010, at 8:46 PM, David Breneman wrote:
>
> > --- On Sun, 6/27/10, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> "Did
> > you have to go so damn fast?"
> >> "Well he did say a high speed miss."
> >> "OK,
> > you turn this car around, and go back to work.
> >> If I ever see you again, you
> > WILL get a ticket."
> >> "Yes sir!"
> >
> > Try to get that level of justice from a
> > robocop camera.
> >
> > We're well into the age of Big Brother.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/vdiorio at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From tartanredmgb at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 19:20:37 2010
From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 18:20:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] anyone in Fort Lauderdale?
Message-ID: <AANLkTik58ptZJSRNEY-1npueRfs_xdBYsLmKGZfiS3yT@mail.gmail.com>

I am looking to buy an early MGB roadster, and one just came up for sale in
Florida.  I'm in California though.  Is there anyone that might take a look
at the car for me?  Thanks!

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 22:30:56 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 21:30:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>

A couple of things you might want to keep in mind
1. I was using the car for what it had been designed for.  The XKE was
designed for high speed touring.  The people in your example were not using
the vehicle for what it was designed for.  Nice apples to kumquats
comparison there.
2. You know nothing about my relationship with the car owner.  In fact he
used to encourage me to take long test drives in his car, and put the pedal
to the metal.  I think he got a kick out of this young green kid that adored
his car, and treated it like was his own.  The afternoon of the incident I
told you about, I told him the story.  He laughed his ass off, and told me I
was a quick thinker.  He continued to bring his car to me for as long as I
worked there, so I can only conclude that he had no problem with this.  Nice
guy.
3. This was 1971, the car was a 1969.  Not exactly the rare classic that an
E-type is today.  Hell back then you could pick up a nice 3.8 E driver for
$1500.
4. The highway in question.  Highway 99 through the center of California.
Your aunt Mabel could drive 125 there.  Straight as a string and flat as a
board.  Not zactly the Nurburgring
5. You are looking at 1971 using 2010 glasses.  What was common and
acceptable then is unthinkable now.  In someways this is much better, in
others it is not.  but the bottom line is it is different.
-Rick


On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 11:44 AM, <cyberemp at comcast.net> wrote:

> So this is what happens when we take our cars in for service? My brother
> bought an urban four wheel drive that had been "Jumped" off a freeway onramp
> by the dealer mechanics, bending the frame and "totaling" the truck. I'm
> sure the owner who took it in for servicing was thrilled to find out what
> happened to his baby the only time it was ever taken off road.
> Makes me think of "ferris Buellers day off"
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
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From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Jun 30 05:25:06 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 20:55:06 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>

Ha!  

You had me searching my mail folder for the rest of the conversation  :-)


On 30/06/2010, at 2:00 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:

> A couple of things you might want to keep in mind


> 1. I was using the car f

> 2. You know nothing 

> 3. This was 1971, 

> 4. The highway in question. 

> 5. You are looking at 1971 

That is FIVE things.....

Now, did I come in, in the middle of a conversation?

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Jun 30 06:03:41 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 05:03:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah you kind of did.  It is a spin off of the top down cap thread.  A
comment was made about a stocking cap not coming off your head I posted:
>>FTR a woolen stocking cap will come off of your head at about 125 MPH in a
1969 XKE convertible.
I managed to catch it right as it parted company with my head.
Rick
PS ask me what I told the cop that stopped me on that test drive

I got asked so I replied:
This was 1971  I had just finished a turn up on a 1969 XKE 4.2 E-type.  blue
in color.
I took the highway (99) out of town headed south.  top down and I booted
it.  Hard.
Back then this was a divided highway not a freeway so there were left turn
lanes to turn onto side roads.
Faster and faster I go.  115, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, (somewhere about here
my watch cap decides to go bye, bye) 125  and I pass a turn out where there
is a California Highway Patrol car waiting to turn left.
Shit.
Off the gas.  On the e-brake.  Down shift to 3rd ASAP.
cop catches up with me at about the time I get down to 85.  Pulls me over
"Why were you going so fast?"
"Sir, the customer complained of a high speed miss on this car."
"Did you have to go so damn fast?"
"Well he did say a high speed miss."
"OK, you turn this car around, and go back to work.  If I ever see you
again, you WILL get a ticket."
"Yes sir!"
He never caught me again!
fun times.

I got quoted by our the person starting this thread and you know the rest of
the story.

>>That is FIVE things...
::: shrug:::  I got on a roll
Rick

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Jun 30 06:22:35 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 21:52:35 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
	<AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8DCC9C91-97F7-4987-81EE-C99D80BE7E63@erickson.on.net>

On 30/06/2010, at 9:33 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:

> Yeah you kind of did.  It is a spin off of the top down cap thread.  A
comment was made about a stocking cap not coming off your head

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun 30 13:16:02 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 14:16:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
	<AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C2B97F2.4090402@justbrits.com>

<< I managed to catch it right as it parted company with my head. >>

Hey Rick, have you ever tried out for The Cubs ??
Sounds like YOU could HELP them [God knows they need
all the help they can get!!].  Trade your Volvo Dealer for
Zambrano ?!?!?  Plus future Mechanic picks ?!?

LOL !!!

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Jun 30 13:37:06 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 14:37:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <4C2B97F2.4090402@justbrits.com>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
	<AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C2B97F2.4090402@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <874EF064-9211-406F-BF31-7E5B9E1CC4B1@gmail.com>

My brother (a Brewers fan) calls the Cubs "lovable losers".

We LOVE to see them LOSE.

He bought a TR7, btw. Engine is way low on power, still faster than the 'B.

On Jun 30, 2010, at 2:16 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:

> << I managed to catch it right as it parted company with my head. >>
> 
> Hey Rick, have you ever tried out for The Cubs ??
> Sounds like YOU could HELP them [God knows they need
> all the help they can get!!].  Trade your Volvo Dealer for
> Zambrano ?!?!?  Plus future Mechanic picks ?!?
> 
> LOL !!!