[Mgs] no rich cunky volts

[Paul Hunt]

Depends just where that fuse is inserted, both for what might have blown it 
as well as what still worked and what didn't work when it had blown. 
Current through the indicator warning light from the alternator is pretty 
small, enough to keep a relay operated but not much else, certainly not 
ignition or fuel pump, but the low impedance of the ignition is certainly 
enough to light it at near full brilliance, which is what you see every time 
you turn the ignition off while the engine is spinning down.  Even less 
chance of bump starting the engine when the alternator was no longer 
charging, if there wasn't enough current available to keep the engine 
running when it was.  Also when you did bump start it, if the warning light 
was no longer on, then the 12v ignition supply must have been back on again 
(which was why it *did* start).  It could be that the short caused a weak 
connection at the fuse to open up, but not actually blow the fuse.  That 
'repaired' itself, quite possibly during the bump-start, also dislodging the 
short, only for the short to come back on again (as they do) but this time 
blow the fuse.  Good job you had one, or it could burn the wiring.  With 
faults like this about the only option is to temporarily insert fuses in 
various branches of the white circuit, and break down which branch is 
causing the problem that way.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> However, a fuse that I had wired in-line in the white circuit under the 
> dash
> had blown.  While the car was running, that bulb was full on, I suspect
> current was going through the indicator and to the fuel pump as an 
> alternate
> circuit when the fuse "protected" the normal path failed.