From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Thu Jul  1 06:15:29 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:15:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] free MGB
References: <IISenAqpfkNsjUHQHh200000241@iis2.zaks.com>
Message-ID: <27CF7FDB-2834-4FAE-96C2-1395A14FE6FF@mgcarclub.com>

Just passing this on to the list for anyone in the area. See the link  
below:

http://www.mgcarclub.com/asp_bin/classifieds.asp?lcn=wny

Begin forwarded message:

> An ad was placed on the MG CAR CLUB WEBSITE
>  from Windsor Locks, CT
>
> My uncle has an MGB (I checked the logo on the trunk) in his  
> backyard near Hartford, CT.  He thought it was from 1956, but it  
> must be newer if it's an MGB. We are helping him clean out the  
> yard, and he would like to see this car go to someone who would  
> enjoy it rather than to the junk yard. It has likely been sitting  
> out there for over 30 years, and is not in good shape.
> Contact me by email if you are interested.  We would like to get  
> rid of this soon.

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jul  1 19:34:53 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 20:34:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <874EF064-9211-406F-BF31-7E5B9E1CC4B1@gmail.com>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
	<AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C2B97F2.4090402@justbrits.com>
	<874EF064-9211-406F-BF31-7E5B9E1CC4B1@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C2D423D.9040605@justbrits.com>

<< My brother (a Brewers fan) calls the Cubs "lovable losers".
We LOVE to see them LOSE.  >>

At least that's the MAJORITY of the time, Paul !!!  LOL  
I'm a Sox fan anyway, so who cares <VBG> ?!?!?
Besides, 'baseball' DIED when the Dodgers mover OUT of
Ebbits Field !!!!

<< He bought a TR7, btw. >>

Poor guy.  What a pure WASTE of good money [sorry, Mark<G>] !!

<< Engine is way low on power, still faster than the 'B. >>

Make the 'B' Driver LIGHTER.  Dats all it would take !!!  LOL !!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ]

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 19:44:48 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 20:44:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <4C2D423D.9040605@justbrits.com>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
	<AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C2B97F2.4090402@justbrits.com>
	<874EF064-9211-406F-BF31-7E5B9E1CC4B1@gmail.com>
	<4C2D423D.9040605@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <64D08985-EEB8-4F95-8FE9-0658EA9C6155@gmail.com>

So now your in with my Doctor, Ed? 

On Jul 1, 2010, at 8:34 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:

> 
> Make the 'B' Driver LIGHTER.  Dats all it would take !!!  LOL !!

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jul  1 20:22:54 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:22:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <64D08985-EEB8-4F95-8FE9-0658EA9C6155@gmail.com>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
	<AANLkTinoJo8p_odpQxQHQeEI8d7Rw_0DwqhZ02KOErcl@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C2B97F2.4090402@justbrits.com>
	<874EF064-9211-406F-BF31-7E5B9E1CC4B1@gmail.com>
	<4C2D423D.9040605@justbrits.com>
	<64D08985-EEB8-4F95-8FE9-0658EA9C6155@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C2D4D7E.5020501@justbrits.com>

<< So now your in with my Doctor, Ed? >>

HeeHee Paul, and I don;t even get a 'cut' of his FEES !!!

However, if the shoe fits.....................................<G> !!

Heart Healthy anyway <G> !!

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jul  1 20:24:48 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:24:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for
 service?
In-Reply-To: <509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
References: <1106858513.22568.1277837062932.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1047783509.22578.1277837065184.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinF1gVkiKhHkDR76s-dnZYIbOaBfTyXmyzy_ezv@mail.gmail.com>
	<509DB4D3-51EC-418E-BD1C-776B4606B939@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <4C2D4DF0.50408@justbrits.com>

<< You had me searching my mail folder for the rest of the conversation 
  :-)   >>

Must be an up-side-down thing, Eric !!!

Besides, *I* would checked the Archives [by topic] <VBG> !!

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul  1 21:50:00 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu,  1 Jul 2010 21:50:00 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] List membership notes
Message-ID: <20100702035000.24AA12E064@bradakis.com>

For some reason it seems I've gotten more than the usual
number of admin messages regarding posts by a non-member
to a list.  It has been happening on a number of the many
lists I manage, not just this one.

Basically what happens is this:

People subscribe AddressA to the list.  They get the
messages at that address.

They send messages to the list from AddressB.  AddressA
is a member, AddressB is not.  The post from AddressB
is rejected as non-member spam.

Send messages from the address that is subscribed and they
won't get rejected as non-member spam.  If you aren't set
up for digest mode, the address where you get the mail is
listed in the trailer of each and every posting, right there
below the donate link.  Donate early, donate often!

If you normally send messages from AddressB, then subscribe
AddressB to the list.  If you want messages to go to AddressA
and not AddressB, then subscribe AddressB and set your mailman
options to not deliver to AddressB.

Hopefully this will assist some folks with managing Team.Net
email.

mjb.

From tartanredmgb at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 15:51:27 2010
From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 14:51:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] anyone in/near Okanagan WA?
Message-ID: <AANLkTinup0wLi3-Yvi_NbhIdAxaWNbVcBFvuH-R6JLxG@mail.gmail.com>

I am looking to buy an early MGB roadster, and one is for sale in
Washington.  Is there anyone that might take a look at the car for me?
Thanks!

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Jul  5 21:01:44 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon,  5 Jul 2010 21:01:44 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ATT Troubles
Message-ID: <20100706030144.4687F2E0FB@bradakis.com>

Those of you who have email that gets routed in various ways through
AT&T, like att.net, sbcglobal.net, pacbell, etc. Have most likely not
seen any Team.Net email for a few days.

For some reason AT&T was blocking Team.Net.  I have no idea why, what
started it, and you folks don't pay me enough to waste a day on the
phone sifting through an endless stream of clueless "tech support"
drones to find out why.

I have gotten the block removed and am in the process of getting
the effected addresses back into normal operation.  Thank you for
your patience.

mjb.

From awhitema at panix.com  Tue Jul  6 09:06:48 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 08:06:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts
Message-ID: <58896D63-484C-4886-A547-FC6F5E3D71C1@panix.com>

Do alternator regulators have the ability to cut off stupid shorts?

The situation:
 I planned to drive the MG to work today, car started as normal and I'm happy.
I drive down hill about 2 blocks and approach the first stoplight, when the
red light in the dash comes on, very brightly.  No changes when revving.  I
feel a slight stumble and think "get this car home!", but only make it about
half way up the hill before she dies.

I'm able to get the car re-oreiented so it's nose down backed into a driveway,
set the brake and pop the hood.

One of the primary wires (I have a Bosch alternator, there are two "big
spades" that are wired parallel) is not on the spade, but resting in the
aluminum well that surrounds it.

At this point, the car turns over and sounds like it does have weak spark (I
hear little pops, but not enough to get the car to run), so I coast back down
the hill and park at the local grocery.  The red light is NOT on.  While
coasting down, I attempted a rolling start, revved to about 2000rpm, no red
light then either.

Aside from the obvious (test alternator, test battery), what else do I worry
about; there were no baking wire smells.

--
Aaron

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul  6 11:08:48 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 18:08:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts
References: <58896D63-484C-4886-A547-FC6F5E3D71C1@panix.com>
Message-ID: <DB8ABEADD18848AB8661C3AC4D3B1F45@paul>

some peoples stupid shorts do deserve to be cut off and burnt.

Even if the alternator suddenly packed up the battery should get it another 
40 miles at least.  And if there is enough energy in the battery to turn the 
engine over, but it won't start, then there is some other issue.  Check you 
have HT with a timing light clipped onto the coil lead and each plug lead in 
turn and watch the flashes while cranking.  Remove a fuel feed pipe from a 
carb (ignition off!) and see if you get a spurt of fuel.  If so, more 
research needed.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema at panix.com>
To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 4:06 PM
Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts


> Do alternator regulators have the ability to cut off stupid shorts?
>
> The situation:
> I planned to drive the MG to work today, car started as normal and I'm 
> happy.
> I drive down hill about 2 blocks and approach the first stoplight, when 
> the
> red light in the dash comes on, very brightly.  No changes when revving. 
> I
> feel a slight stumble and think "get this car home!", but only make it 
> about
> half way up the hill before she dies.
>
> I'm able to get the car re-oreiented so it's nose down backed into a 
> driveway,
> set the brake and pop the hood.
>
> One of the primary wires (I have a Bosch alternator, there are two "big
> spades" that are wired parallel) is not on the spade, but resting in the
> aluminum well that surrounds it.
>
> At this point, the car turns over and sounds like it does have weak spark 
> (I
> hear little pops, but not enough to get the car to run), so I coast back 
> down
> the hill and park at the local grocery.  The red light is NOT on.  While
> coasting down, I attempted a rolling start, revved to about 2000rpm, no 
> red
> light then either.
>
> Aside from the obvious (test alternator, test battery), what else do I 
> worry
> about; there were no baking wire smells.
>
> --
> Aaron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 17:47:50 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 18:47:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts
Message-ID: <4C33C0A6.5070908@comcast.net>

> some peoples stupid shorts do deserve to be cut off and burnt.

I used to have a pair if shorts that was all Budweiser labels. They were 
so stupid I kind of wish I still had them.

Glenn


-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Jul  6 20:03:56 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 20:03:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts
In-Reply-To: <58896D63-484C-4886-A547-FC6F5E3D71C1@panix.com>
References: <58896D63-484C-4886-A547-FC6F5E3D71C1@panix.com>
Message-ID: <4C33E08C.6040406@bradakis.com>

For many years my wife and I hosted a Beach Party here in Utah
during the February snows.  I know I have a photo or two online
of some seriously stupid shorts.  Perhaps when I'm done working
on this AT&T block nonsense I'll post some.  Then again, I may be
merciful and keep them to myself.

mjb.

From awhitema at panix.com  Tue Jul  6 21:20:31 2010
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 20:20:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts
In-Reply-To: <DB8ABEADD18848AB8661C3AC4D3B1F45@paul>
References: <58896D63-484C-4886-A547-FC6F5E3D71C1@panix.com>
	<DB8ABEADD18848AB8661C3AC4D3B1F45@paul>
Message-ID: <E7089431-7E37-4D26-B8D2-8EB8178ABED0@panix.com>

(first reply sent only to Paul, so you'll get two copies; sorry about that)

On Jul 6, 2010, at 10:08 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> some peoples stupid shorts do deserve to be cut off and burnt.

Agreed.  But my utilikilt is cherished (except when driving a MG).

> Even if the alternator suddenly packed up the battery should get it another
40 miles at least.  And if there is enough energy in the battery to turn the
engine over, but it won't start, then there is some other issue.  Check you
have HT with a timing light clipped onto the coil lead and each plug lead in
turn and watch the flashes while cranking.  Remove a fuel feed pipe from a
carb (ignition off!) and see if you get a spurt of fuel.  If so, more research
needed.

OK, the car is home.

The alternator has 3 spades--2 that provide charging amps, one that provides
the signal to the red light in the cockpit.  The top charging spade was not
attached to it's wire, which was sitting "over" the spade, potentially making
intermittent contact with the alternator body (it's a plastic covered
connection, so the chance of a short is smaller.  Possibly, there was no short
here at all.

However, a fuse that I had wired in-line in the white circuit under the dash
had blown.  While the car was running, that bulb was full on, I suspect
current was going through the indicator and to the fuel pump as an alternate
circuit when the fuse "protected" the normal path failed. Once the car died
(insufficient power to pump enough fuel to go up a hill?), the alternator no
longer lit up the circuit, but because the white line was cut, the bulb was
dead when "ignition on, engine off" too.

In any event, when I replaced that fuse, I had no trouble getting home.
Finding the short that caused the failure could be Real Fun.

--
Aaron

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Jul  7 01:32:31 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 17:02:31 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] A little video for you from the weekend...
Message-ID: <4C342D8F.6030606@erickson.on.net>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzUI1SU80k4

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul  7 01:41:59 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:41:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts
References: <58896D63-484C-4886-A547-FC6F5E3D71C1@panix.com><DB8ABEADD18848AB8661C3AC4D3B1F45@paul>
	<E7089431-7E37-4D26-B8D2-8EB8178ABED0@panix.com>
Message-ID: <0F889C07A27B4923BCAE3C43ABBB19C1@paul>

Depends just where that fuse is inserted, both for what might have blown it 
as well as what still worked and what didn't work when it had blown. 
Current through the indicator warning light from the alternator is pretty 
small, enough to keep a relay operated but not much else, certainly not 
ignition or fuel pump, but the low impedance of the ignition is certainly 
enough to light it at near full brilliance, which is what you see every time 
you turn the ignition off while the engine is spinning down.  Even less 
chance of bump starting the engine when the alternator was no longer 
charging, if there wasn't enough current available to keep the engine 
running when it was.  Also when you did bump start it, if the warning light 
was no longer on, then the 12v ignition supply must have been back on again 
(which was why it *did* start).  It could be that the short caused a weak 
connection at the fuse to open up, but not actually blow the fuse.  That 
'repaired' itself, quite possibly during the bump-start, also dislodging the 
short, only for the short to come back on again (as they do) but this time 
blow the fuse.  Good job you had one, or it could burn the wiring.  With 
faults like this about the only option is to temporarily insert fuses in 
various branches of the white circuit, and break down which branch is 
causing the problem that way.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> However, a fuse that I had wired in-line in the white circuit under the 
> dash
> had blown.  While the car was running, that bulb was full on, I suspect
> current was going through the indicator and to the fuel pump as an 
> alternate
> circuit when the fuse "protected" the normal path failed. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul  7 04:01:59 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 11:01:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] A little video for you from the weekend...
References: <4C342D8F.6030606@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <B6717DF428304FAEA4FAB51BAB4E15CD@paul>

Nah, can't fool me, you were sitting in front of a projector screen - speedo 
wasn't moving :o)

Seriously though, your tach was wavering up and down much more than I would 
have expected from the sound track and track position.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzUI1SU80k4

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Jul  7 04:52:39 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 20:22:39 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] A little video for you from the weekend...
In-Reply-To: <B6717DF428304FAEA4FAB51BAB4E15CD@paul>
References: <4C342D8F.6030606@erickson.on.net>
	<B6717DF428304FAEA4FAB51BAB4E15CD@paul>
Message-ID: <274DF014-5EDE-4261-85D5-A90FFCFEF998@erickson.on.net>

On 07/07/2010, at 7:31 PM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Nah, can't fool me, you were sitting in front of a projector screen - speedo
wasn't moving :o)
>
> Seriously though, your tach was wavering up and down much more than I would
have expected from the sound track and track position.
>

Yeah - can't fool you guys  :-)

1.  My speedo died during the week but it wasn't something I really worried
about because I really don't look at it on the track - I now have a few weeks
to get around to  finding out what is wrong with it and getting it back in
order.

2.  I am seriously looking at a decent tacho (solid state??) - but it does
actually work alright for me (it isn't such a fine line for gear changes).
The thing is taking a decent bashing and you would bounce around if you were
in that car, too :-)   I know when it is red lining.

This was my first time out with my new brake lines after a disappointing
failure of a brake line last time out - and I was really pushing them to find
the limits (and to set up the balance between front and rear).  I got a decent
wriggle into one corner and it felt great until I looked over my shoulder
through the corner and saw the massive trail of tyre smoke.  I can't believe
how wonderfully she was under control despite such a lockup - and no
noticeable flat spot on the tyres (the benefit of a light car on those
tyres).

It was a great day out and I grabbed three quarters of a second on my previous
personal best time - consistently over most laps that day.

I have just over half a second to find to hit my target time.

Eric

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Wed Jul  7 06:39:36 2010
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:39:36 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] My stupidest Shorts entry
Message-ID: <72d6e.7757b559.3965cf88@aol.com>

Hey Folks, 
My "stupidest short" happened  when I in a rush hooked up my Battery 
charger in reverse, Ergo I burnt out the  capacitor and the alternator and fried 
out a bunch of wires. Thank God I saw  wisps of smoke emanating out of the 
area behind the passenger seat.
That one  cost me a few bucks. But it taught me that the MGBs like other 
British cars with  Lucus electrics (relays, switches, connectors) fry very 
easily.
Alberto  Escalante   

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jul 10 18:25:34 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 19:25:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: [Spridgets] well written ad...Buick or MGB-GT? Hmmmm]
Message-ID: <4C390F7E.6010609@justbrits.com>

I know NOTHING other then info below and on the CL page.
NFI, YMMV, FYI, yada, yada, yada <G> !!!
Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ]

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Spridgets] well written ad...Buick or MGB-GT? Hmmmm
Date: 	Sat, 10 Jul 2010 16:41:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: 	
To: 	Spridgets at autox.team.net


http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/1833891747.html

 Edward P.
Snohomish, WA
78 Midget (1275)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lbc_newbie/
_______________________________________________

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 14 14:38:35 2010
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:38:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Enclosed trailer for MGB
References: <72d6e.7757b559.3965cf88@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0ED5BE51B45946F89376CC6E3DA9BBAA@DELL>

Hi List,

Starting to look for an enclosed trailer for my 1973 MGB for a long tow next 
year.

I am kind of limited to the size I need.  The tow vehicle is a 1998 Ford 
F-150 with a 4.6 v-8.

I do know that I do not want a v-nose, because they carry too much tongue 
weight.

Any suggestions on size?????

Thanks,

Craig 

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul 15 14:31:40 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 16:31:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB indicator switch
Message-ID: <E1OZV64-0003r7-JE@beta.look.ca>

I cannot get my newish indicator switch thingy to self cancel.  I 
have had the thing to pieces and tried all sorts of way - but self 
cancel it will not except when you turn the wheel way past centre 
again.  Anyone understand the da-m thing?  It did work before I 
adjusted the wheel to be centred when the wheels were going straight

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 15 15:07:05 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 14:07:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Seattle-area question
Message-ID: <621778.74794.qm@web112104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I read *somewhere* that there was an upcoming MGCCNWC
tech session at the new Girot's Garage in Tacoma, but
I can't find details about it anywhere.  Has it come
and gone already?  Thanks!

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Thu Jul 15 15:48:22 2010
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 16:48:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] FW:  MGB indicator switch
Message-ID: <002801cb2467$7233f430$569bdc90$@net>

There is a cam lobe type thing on the steering shaft right behind the
steering wheel, it is what flips the tab to turn off the signals.  The lobe
has to be centered when the wheels are straight.  I believe it has to be at
the very top (0 degrees).  Also sometimes the plastic tab that the lobe hits
will get flimsy and not stiff enough to move the signal lever.  

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:32 PM
To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MGB indicator switch

I cannot get my newish indicator switch thingy to self cancel.  I 
have had the thing to pieces and tried all sorts of way - but self 
cancel it will not except when you turn the wheel way past centre 
again.  Anyone understand the da-m thing?  It did work before I 
adjusted the wheel to be centred when the wheels were going straight

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 
_______________________________________________

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Jul 15 21:37:03 2010
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 20:37:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Generator pulley size?
Message-ID: <AANLkTinMLBzcCHJOaU62NGW_xfFJQSlC-LMrOqqGQRvS@mail.gmail.com>

Can anyone tell me the correct diameter for the generator pulley on a '57 MGA?

Simon

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 16 03:15:52 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 10:15:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB indicator switch
References: <E1OZV64-0003r7-JE@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C4CF04052AB8427ABDDCDA47F02F8678@paul>

What year?  There were at least three different types of cancelling.

For the early and middle types the cancelling peg/cam has to be between the 
cancelling fingers of the switch i.e. facing the switch (not at the top or 
it will give different characteristics right to left).  Early columns had a 
screwed peg, and the column needs to be rotated in the UJ to get that right. 
Middle columns have a cam which is a tight fit on the outside of the column, 
but can be slid round to the correct position.  Later columns are completely 
different.  On early and middle the wheel should only need to be turned 
about a quarter turn in either direction from straight ahead for the peg or 
cam to pass under the finger, lifting it out of the way, then when 
straightening up it should press on the end of the finger to push the switch 
back.  Newer middle switches with the integral plastic fingers can be iffy 
in that the tips of the fingers aren't close enough together (poor 
moulding), so that on the way back the cam doesn't engage them deep enough 
and the finger just pops up out of the way.  I had to build up my cam with 
solder to get it to work reliably with a new switch.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I cannot get my newish indicator switch thingy to self cancel. 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Jul 16 10:36:55 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 11:36:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Generator pulley size?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinMLBzcCHJOaU62NGW_xfFJQSlC-LMrOqqGQRvS@mail.gmail.c om>
References: <AANLkTinMLBzcCHJOaU62NGW_xfFJQSlC-LMrOqqGQRvS@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <650530.82333.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

At 08:37 PM 7/15/2010 -0700, Simon Matthews wrote:
>Can anyone tell me the correct diameter for the generator pulley on a '57 MGA?
>....

Yup.  See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et123.htm

There were four different sizes of generator pulleys for MGA, two in 
sheet metal for the pushrod cars and two in cast iron for the Twin Cam cars.

For pushrod cars, pulley size was reduced (and belt shortened) to 
increase dynamo speed at engine number 17061 (February 1957).
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg205.pdf
Early pulley was 3-5/8" diameter.  Later pulley was about 3" diameter.

For Twin Cam, pulley size was reduced (and belt shortened) to 
increase dynamo speed at engine number 272 (September 1958).
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg237a.pdf
Early pulley was 4-3/4" diameter.  Later pulley was 4" diameter.

For concours show some of the earlier cars may want to have the 
larger pulley and longer belt.  Otherwise it is a good idea to 
convert the earlier cars to the smaller pulley and shorter belt for 
better charging.

From don at napanet.net  Sun Jul 18 23:41:31 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 22:41:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB scam
Message-ID: <20100719063315.5046324DC66@mail.napanet.net>

In my undending pursuit of a nice early B roadster, I just came upon 
a scam.  Last one of these crooks I encountered, a Christian 
missionary from Tuvolu, wanted to buy my TR8.  This scam is a guy 
supposedly selling a red MGB roadster.

The car is advertised on Auto Trader, and the seller claims to live 
in Los Altos CA.  I live in northern CA, so not that far from 
there.  I tried calling the phone number in the ad and the phone 
number was not a working number.  Hmmm.  I emailed the seller, and 
did get a reply, but no method of contacting by phone was 
offered.  He sent me a link to a website with pretty pictures of the 
car, but no way to contact the guy by phone.  Finally, I get the 
email from him which is very suspicious and I've copied it below.

1.  THE AD
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1965-MG-MGB-312055.xhtml?actionMethod=find%2Fvehicle%2FvehicleSearchResults.xhtml%3AuShipController.init&conversationId=38613

2.  THE PRETTY PICTURES
Hi,
Thanks for your email. This car is in great condition, the title is 
clear and all you have to do is to put your name on it.
Here's a link with some pics
<http://s797.photobucket.com/albums/yy255/1965MG/>http://s797.photobucket.com/albums/yy255/1965MG/
If you are interested email me back
I need money very fast so I will let it go for just $8,500
Thanks

>3.  THE ATTEMPT TO GET MONEY FOR A CAR THAT PROBABLY DOES NOT EXIST
>Hello,
>Thank you for showing interest! I work as a petroleum engineer and 
>my time is limited. I am not so familiar with online sales and I 
>decided to use a service from an business-specialized company eBay 
>Purchase Protection.
>The car is now in their custody and they will handle all sale 
>proces. The car will be shipped from eBay Motors Vehicle garage. The 
>shipping fees si already paid in advance by me and there will not be 
>any other costs regarding this transaction. The car will be shipped 
>to your address trough an enclosed trailer and will be at your 
>address in no more than 3 business days after the deposit is 
>confirmed by eBay. You will have also a 3 days for inspection.
>If, by any reason, you won't be satisfied with it ( even though I 
>can assure you that it is exactly as described), you can return it 
>at my expense for a full refund of your deposit, no questions asked. 
>I think this is more than fair for both of us.
>This deal WILL BE MADE UNDER THE eBay RULES AND POLICIES Both of us 
>will be protected. I WILL NOT DEAL OUTSIDE EBAY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!!
>In order to start our transaction I will need to know your:
>Full name:.............
>Shipping address.......
>I will forward the details of our transaction to eBay and then you 
>will receive an invoice from them.
>- Total price you have to pay is $8,500
>
>Looking forward to hearing from you

From doug at ado16.com  Mon Jul 19 04:33:52 2010
From: doug at ado16.com (Doug Mak)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 03:33:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB scam
In-Reply-To: <20100719063315.5046324DC66@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100719063315.5046324DC66@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <7C3D6E47-1C20-4B5C-98BB-925E1CF941F5@ado16.com>

Agreed.. Whenever a guy says the car is in eBay's "storage" is a fake.

The same exact verbiage was used on another ad back in February.
http://www.fightthescams.com/2010/02/16/owner-65027731-autotrader-com-vehicle-lead-2000-bmw-740i/

That's a shame; it's a nice looking car.

doug


On 18 Jul 2010, at 22:41, don wrote:

> In my undending pursuit of a nice early B roadster, I just came upon
> a scam.  Last one of these crooks I encountered, a Christian
> missionary from Tuvolu, wanted to buy my TR8.  This scam is a guy
> supposedly selling a red MGB roadster.
>
> The car is advertised on Auto Trader, and the seller claims to live
> in Los Altos CA.  I live in northern CA, so not that far from
> there.  I tried calling the phone number in the ad and the phone
> number was not a working number.  Hmmm.  I emailed the seller, and
> did get a reply, but no method of contacting by phone was
> offered.  He sent me a link to a website with pretty pictures of the
> car, but no way to contact the guy by phone.  Finally, I get the
> email from him which is very suspicious and I've copied it below.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 19 10:50:37 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 09:50:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB scam
In-Reply-To: <20100719063315.5046324DC66@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <C869D06D.2AB7E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Pretty obviously phony, when he says "he won't deal outside of eBay", and
the car is advertised on AutoTrader. I mean, duh... Ebay isn't going to
"protect" a sale made through AutoTrader.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/18/10 10:41 PM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:

> In my undending pursuit of a nice early B roadster, I just came upon
> a scam.  Last one of these crooks I encountered, a Christian
> missionary from Tuvolu, wanted to buy my TR8.  This scam is a guy
> supposedly selling a red MGB roadster.
> 
> The car is advertised on Auto Trader, and the seller claims to live
> in Los Altos CA.  I live in northern CA, so not that far from
> there.  I tried calling the phone number in the ad and the phone
> number was not a working number.  Hmmm.  I emailed the seller, and
> did get a reply, but no method of contacting by phone was
> offered.  He sent me a link to a website with pretty pictures of the
> car, but no way to contact the guy by phone.  Finally, I get the
> email from him which is very suspicious and I've copied it below.
> 
> 1.  THE AD
> http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1965-MG-MGB-312055.xhtml?actionM
> ethod=find%2Fvehicle%2FvehicleSearchResults.xhtml%3AuShipController.init&conve
> rsationId=38613
> 
> 2.  THE PRETTY PICTURES
> Hi,
> Thanks for your email. This car is in great condition, the title is
> clear and all you have to do is to put your name on it.
> Here's a link with some pics
> <http://s797.photobucket.com/albums/yy255/1965MG/>http://s797.photobucket.com/
> albums/yy255/1965MG/
> If you are interested email me back
> I need money very fast so I will let it go for just $8,500
> Thanks
> 
>> 3.  THE ATTEMPT TO GET MONEY FOR A CAR THAT PROBABLY DOES NOT EXIST
>> Hello,
>> Thank you for showing interest! I work as a petroleum engineer and
>> my time is limited. I am not so familiar with online sales and I
>> decided to use a service from an business-specialized company eBay
>> Purchase Protection.
>> The car is now in their custody and they will handle all sale
>> proces. The car will be shipped from eBay Motors Vehicle garage. The
>> shipping fees si already paid in advance by me and there will not be
>> any other costs regarding this transaction. The car will be shipped
>> to your address trough an enclosed trailer and will be at your
>> address in no more than 3 business days after the deposit is
>> confirmed by eBay. You will have also a 3 days for inspection.
>> If, by any reason, you won't be satisfied with it ( even though I
>> can assure you that it is exactly as described), you can return it
>> at my expense for a full refund of your deposit, no questions asked.
>> I think this is more than fair for both of us.
>> This deal WILL BE MADE UNDER THE eBay RULES AND POLICIES Both of us
>> will be protected. I WILL NOT DEAL OUTSIDE EBAY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!!
>> In order to start our transaction I will need to know your:
>> Full name:.............
>> Shipping address.......
>> I will forward the details of our transaction to eBay and then you
>> will receive an invoice from them.
>> - Total price you have to pay is $8,500
>> 
>> Looking forward to hearing from you

From don at napanet.net  Mon Jul 19 11:30:30 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:30:30 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB scam
In-Reply-To: <C869D06D.2AB7E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20100719063315.5046324DC66@mail.napanet.net>
	<C869D06D.2AB7E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20100719182149.DB84C24DCA5@mail.napanet.net>

I know!  How stupid does he thing the buyers are?  The car was on 
eBay briefly, then cancelled so I think his original plan was to work 
the scam there.  Maybe he forgot where he had advertised it.  Not a 
very good crook.  He would never make it in politics.

Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2 MGs
1 TR
misc. Japanese cars




At 09:50 AM 07/19/2010, Max Heim wrote:
>Pretty obviously phony, when he says "he won't deal outside of eBay", and
>the car is advertised on AutoTrader. I mean, duh... Ebay isn't going to
>"protect" a sale made through AutoTrader.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Mon Jul 19 12:28:22 2010
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 18:28:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] MG add.
In-Reply-To: <37055856.230139.1279564098764.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <240255113.230142.1279564102493.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Well, he's not even making it as a used car salesman. 
Humph!... back in MY day, con-men knew their business! 
Now with the infernet, all these foreign scam artists and would be scoundrels are flooding the market with their inferior workmanship... 
***Sigh*** oh, what dark times we have entered... 
And actually,used car dealer persons are not necessarily scoundrels, I personally have only met a few. 
I do have a 65 mgb, but prior owner made a number of modifications, and told me he put over 300k on it in the 30 years he owned it. He did set it up to corner well though, tube shocks in rear, heavier valves in front shocks, slightly larger anti-roll bar. Yay! my current daily driver. 
Eric 
46 mgtc 
50MGA 
65 MGB 
70MGB 
71 MGB 
So many cars, so little parking... 

>>>I know! How stupid does he thing the buyers are? The car was on 
eBay briefly, then cancelled so I think his original plan was to work 
the scam there. Maybe he forgot where he had advertised it. Not a 
very good crook. He would never make it in politics. 

Don Scott 
Calistoga CA 
2 MGs 
1 TR 
misc. Japanese cars 

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Mon Jul 19 15:17:36 2010
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 17:17:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Water pump for MGA
Message-ID: <4C44C0F0.50907@snet.net>

What is the opinion of the group on whether to use an early MGB water 
pump on an MGA engine in a race application?  When running at Monticello 
last week, just before my axle broke, I experienced significantly higher 
running temperatures than I had ever seen before.  I pegged the gauge.  
Since I currently have the opportunity, I am changing the water pump and 
thermostat.  So, I want to know if there is any particular advantage in 
running the 12 vane early MGB pump as opposed to the 6 vane MGA pump.  
The engine is a 1622 with modest upgrades.  I have not previously had 
overheating issues.  It was a VERY hot day, and the track is slower than 
most that I run (more twisty) and very power-demanding.

Jim
MGA 311

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf]

From jello at cableone.net  Mon Jul 19 15:34:11 2010
From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:34:11 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Water pump for MGA
Message-ID: <64284.1279575251@cableone.net>


From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Jul 19 15:51:09 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 16:51:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Vintage-race] Water pump for MGA
In-Reply-To: <4C44C0F0.50907@snet.net>
References: <4C44C0F0.50907@snet.net>
Message-ID: <20100719145178.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

I don't think it would fit. I mean, the gaskets are different, if I 
recall correctly. Bolts don't line up?
         Peter C
==
At 04:17 PM 7/19/2010, James F Juhas wrote:
>What is the opinion of the group on whether to use an early MGB water
>pump on an MGA engine in a race application?  When running at Monticello
>last week, just before my axle broke, I experienced significantly higher
>running temperatures than I had ever seen before.  I pegged the gauge.
>Since I currently have the opportunity, I am changing the water pump and
>thermostat.  So, I want to know if there is any particular advantage in
>running the 12 vane early MGB pump as opposed to the 6 vane MGA pump.
>The engine is a 1622 with modest upgrades.  I have not previously had
>overheating issues.  It was a VERY hot day, and the track is slower than
>most that I run (more twisty) and very power-demanding.
>
>Jim
>MGA 311

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Mon Jul 19 17:24:35 2010
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 20:24:35 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] engine
Message-ID: <01de01cb2799$8d2c4780$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

Hello listers:

engine progresses but as with everything another bump:

Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in the clutch slave cylinders? Are they SAE or "English thread"? It has been so long since I removed mine I can't find them! They are, I know, held together with masking tape and labeled but I cannot find where I put them! This one is on me, searched the garage, found my wire cutters but cannot locate the two bolts!

As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on them reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come off, perhaps a cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get on the engine mounts, doesn't matter and I should have left tape on them but didn't...

Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend!

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Jul 19 17:40:53 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 18:40:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] engine
In-Reply-To: <01de01cb2799$8d2c4780$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
References: <01de01cb2799$8d2c4780$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <299011.50709.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, for MGA:

HBZ0615 - for early cars
3/8-24-UNF x 1-7/8 long

ACH8483 - Com. (C) 21513
3/8-16-UNC x 1-7/8 long

For MGB I might "guess" the later part carries over from MGA, but I 
don't have a SPL for the MGB to verify it.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http:/MGAguru.com


At 08:24 PM 7/19/2010 -0300, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote:
>....
>Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in 
>the clutch slave cylinders? ....
>
>As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on them 
>reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come off, 
>perhaps a cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get on the 
>engine mounts, doesn't matter and I should have left tape on them but didn't...
>....
>Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend!

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Mon Jul 19 17:58:28 2010
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 19:58:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] engine
In-Reply-To: <299011.50709.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <01de01cb2799$8d2c4780$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<299011.50709.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3C170FF3-7931-476B-A087-B3E73A46FAB1@trebelhorn.com>

I just reinstalled the slave on my 5-main, 4-synchro B.  They're  
definitely coarse thread; the late-A piece cited by Barney certainly  
sounds right.

Matt

70 MGB


On 19 Jul, 2010, at 7:40 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote:

> Well, for MGA:
>
> HBZ0615 - for early cars
> 3/8-24-UNF x 1-7/8 long
>
> ACH8483 - Com. (C) 21513
> 3/8-16-UNC x 1-7/8 long
>
> For MGB I might "guess" the later part carries over from MGA, but I  
> don't have a SPL for the MGB to verify it.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http:/MGAguru.com
>
>
> At 08:24 PM 7/19/2010 -0300, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote:
>> ....
>> Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in  
>> the clutch slave cylinders? ....
>>
>> As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on  
>> them reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come  
>> off, perhaps a cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get  
>> on the engine mounts, doesn't matter and I should have left tape  
>> on them but didn't...
>> ....
>> Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ 
> matt.lists at trebelhorn.com

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 19 17:58:14 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 16:58:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] engine
In-Reply-To: <01de01cb2799$8d2c4780$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <C86A34A6.2ABCB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

The OD switch isn't polarized -- It doesn't matter which lead goes to which
prong.

Can't help find your bolts, alas...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 7/19/10 4:24 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock at msjeffcock at eastlink.ca wrote:

> Hello listers:
> 
> engine progresses but as with everything another bump:
> 
> Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in the clutch
> slave cylinders? Are they SAE or "English thread"? It has been so long since I
> removed mine I can't find them! They are, I know, held together with masking
> tape and labeled but I cannot find where I put them! This one is on me,
> searched the garage, found my wire cutters but cannot locate the two bolts!
> 
> As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on them
> reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come off, perhaps a
> cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get on the engine mounts,
> doesn't matter and I should have left tape on them but didn't...
> 
> Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend!

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 20 01:45:15 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 08:45:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] engine
References: <01de01cb2799$8d2c4780$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>
	<299011.50709.qm@smtp106.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1211561F260347919AF3FF5F1A0F81E5@paul>

SH506081, SCREW, HEX, UNC, 3/8" X 1" for the MGB.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>>Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in 
>>the clutch slave cylinders? ....

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Tue Jul 20 21:37:55 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:37:55 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGB front suspension question
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

My 64B currently sports wire wheels on the front and original disc
wheels on the back. The previous owner was apparently converting the car
to wire wheels. I am converting it back, partly because of the
difficulty in acquiring a wire wheel axle and because I have most of the
parts to change the front back to disc wheels. And I do like to keep my
MGs mostly original (within reason). The question/problem is that my
manuals as well as Moss show part #58 collar, oil seal 264-950 and I am
not quite sure what this part is. I did remove a part that I think is
the oil seal #59 120-610 pressed into the rear of the hubs. Moss
diagram:



http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020



Point is that the front hubs did have an oil seal that looks much like
other oil seals used on the engine crank oil seals which cost around
$3-4/ apiece similar to the oil seal part #59. And if that is the case,
what is this considerably more expensive 264-950 at $25 each? Is this a
part I am likely to find when I remove the ww hub and is it a part that
could be reused? I can't tell much from the picture and this oil collar
would be the most expensive part in the hub wear item components if it
was a wear item that is.



David Councill

64 B

67 BGT

72 B

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Jul 20 23:01:05 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 00:01:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB front suspension question
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubilling s.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <491314.16139.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It is a steel piece, never wears out.l  It is the first piece to be 
assembled onto the bearing spindle, gets captured by the inner 
bearing inner race.  The OD of this part is the smooth surface for 
mating with the rotating oil seal in the hub.  Same part for WW or DW cars.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 09:37 PM 7/20/2010 -0600, David Councill wrote:
>My 64B .... my manuals as well as Moss show part #58 collar, oil 
>seal 264-950 and I am not quite sure what this part is. I did remove 
>a part that I think is the oil seal #59 120-610 pressed into the 
>rear of the hubs. Moss diagram:
>http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020
>....

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 21 21:08:07 2010
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<491314.16139.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>

Hi list,

I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.

As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Craig

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul 22 01:44:40 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 08:44:40 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><491314.16139.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>
Message-ID: <E5722BE885FD475CA8AE82A852F5E4AE@paul>

At the very least either tie it down to the cradle, or put a block of wood
between the top and the metal cover.  You certainly don't want it bouncing
round and shorting out underneath, or even rattling around in the cage I'd
say.  This is one of the drawbacks of converting to single 12v, so rarely is
securing the battery mentioned I'm guessing that most people leave them
loose.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.
>
> As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Thu Jul 22 02:22:33 2010
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:22:33 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: <62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<491314.16139.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik18E-DdmIpQo57GpSBta0VcrectEJxAHEw5dOB@mail.gmail.com>

Rope?

My 12V-in-a-6V-hole is wedged in so tight I must admit I don't bother with
any tie-down.

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, due for MOT yesterday, delayed due to
cracked radiator :-(   )

On 22 July 2010 04:08, Craig Straub <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Hi list,
>
> I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.
>
> As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rbgosling at googlemail.com

From atweditor at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 07:25:43 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:25:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: 29644620
References: 29644620
Message-ID: <8CCF7B884E8A57C-2008-1701@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com>

 I use a short piece of 2X2 wood. Works fine, fits well, doesn't conduct
electricity and is easily removed.

Jay Donoghue
72 MGB-GT
66 Mustang








-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Gosling <rbgosling at googlemail.com>
To: Craig Straub <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: > <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 5:38 am
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down


Rope?



My 12V-in-a-6V-hole is wedged in so tight I must admit I don't bother with

any tie-down.



Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, due for MOT yesterday, delayed due to

cracked radiator :-(   )



On 22 July 2010 04:08, Craig Straub <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net> wrote:



> Hi list,

>

> I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.

>

> As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.

>

> Any suggestions?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Craig

> _______________________________________________

>

> Mgs at autox.team.net

> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

> Unsubscribe:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rbgosling at googlemail.com

_______________________________________________



Mgs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul 22 07:43:06 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:43:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: <62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<491314.16139.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>
Message-ID: <E1ObwDi-0004Wj-3j@gamma.look.ca>

Craig,

I use a bungy cord - works fine


At 11:08 PM 7/21/2010, Craig Straub wrote:
>Hi list,
>
>I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.
>
>As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Craig
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From eric at erickson.on.net  Thu Jul 22 09:03:00 2010
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 00:33:00 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: <E1ObwDi-0004Wj-3j@gamma.look.ca>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<491314.16139.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>
	<E1ObwDi-0004Wj-3j@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <98909AC4-D2CD-4181-91BD-B14C6A24574E@erickson.on.net>

On 22/07/2010, at 11:13 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:

> Craig,
>
> I use a bungy cord - works fine
>
>


Shesh - a few bucks gets you one of these generic battery brackets.

http://www.haigh.com.au/images/ProductImages/BHS2.jpg

Punch/drill a hole in either side of the battery box for the uprights to hook
into and you are right.  one of these holds my 12v battery in pretty firmly on
a racetrack.

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Thu Jul 22 09:36:59 2010
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 08:36:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
Message-ID: <20100722083659.AF8B424E@resin09.mta.everyone.net>

Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there pretty tightly.  If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is the least of your concerns.

--- craigstraub at sbcglobal.net wrote:

From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500

Hi list,

I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.

As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Craig

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Jul 22 10:45:52 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:45:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: <20100722083659.AF8B424E@resin09.mta.everyone.net>
References: <20100722083659.AF8B424E@resin09.mta.everyone.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikOr8dgApR1GB9drkRnQvxFYw4GDULkVKUv80Ir@mail.gmail.com>

Gravity sometimes isn't enough.  I bought a nice old 240 Volvo once where
someone thought gravity was enough.  There was this really nice burned spot
on the hood right over the positive battery terminal.
It doesn't take much, a speed bump a little too fast, a bad road, or a big
pot hole and you might have your baby burn to the ground as your battery
gives you an impromptu lesson in arc welding and its effects.
Sheez, what does a generic battery hold down cost?  $5?  You would risk your
ride for $5 and 20 minutes of labor?  I wouldn't.

.02
Rick

On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 8:36 AM, Chad Cooper <mgb72 at airmail.net> wrote:

> Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there
> pretty tightly.  If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is
> the least of your concerns.
>
> --- craigstraub at sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
> From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500
>
> Hi list,
>
> I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.
>
> As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From atweditor at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 10:45:54 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 12:45:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: 29644771
References: 29644771
Message-ID: <8CCF7D47C4FCE69-2008-3FD6@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com>

 I know that in colder weather the battery actually shrinks just enough to be
slightly loose. Also, I was told the story by the folks at Mountjoy in
Hyattsville, MD of a guy going over the very bumpy railroad tracks by that
shop and having the battery pop up enough for both terminals to hit the metal
cover, and the battery exploded. Perhaps urban myth, but my 2X2 keeps me a
little safer, maybe.

Jay Donoghue






-----Original Message-----
From: Chad Cooper <mgb72 at airmail.net>
To: Craig Straub <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Mgs <Mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down


Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there
pretty

tightly.  If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is the least

of your concerns.



--- craigstraub at sbcglobal.net wrote:



From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>

To: <mgs at autox.team.net>

Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down

Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500



Hi list,



I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.



As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.



Any suggestions?



Thanks,



Craig

_______________________________________________



Mgs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Jul 22 10:58:41 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 18:58:41 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07142E9E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><491314.16139.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<62A1635AEF014781BD2D0A0370C9BDC9@DELL>
Message-ID: <37D9AF492D644C1EA54D8184FE3E1079@uw471de61b465c>

I did the same.

Bought on a car salvage some ex-Toyota battery clamps.
I think it were Carina types.
Every time my car gets it safety test, it passes!

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
To: ">" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 5:08 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down


> Hi list,
> 
> I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.
> 
> As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Craig

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 22 10:42:28 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:42:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: <98909AC4-D2CD-4181-91BD-B14C6A24574E@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <C86DC304.2ACA1%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Hmm, the problem with reusing the factory holddowns is that there isn't room
on the sides for the long bolts. So I don't see how this kit would work
either, with my battery. Obviously, batteries vary in dimensions -- mine is
not so stuck that it couldn't bounce on a California freeway expansion joint
(not to mention some of the rally roads), so I am using a bungee.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 7/22/10 8:03 AM, Eric Erickson at eric at erickson.on.net wrote:

> On 22/07/2010, at 11:13 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> 
>> Craig,
>> 
>> I use a bungy cord - works fine
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> Shesh - a few bucks gets you one of these generic battery brackets.
> 
> http://www.haigh.com.au/images/ProductImages/BHS2.jpg
> 
> Punch/drill a hole in either side of the battery box for the uprights to hook
> into and you are right.  one of these holds my 12v battery in pretty firmly on
> a racetrack.

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Thu Jul 22 11:59:20 2010
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 10:59:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
Message-ID: <20100722105920.AF8909A7@resin12.mta.everyone.net>

/SCsSHr: Permission denied

From riverside at southslope.net  Thu Jul 22 12:31:11 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:31:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
References: 29644771 <8CCF7D47C4FCE69-2008-3FD6@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000f01cb29cc$0fedc8e0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Battery hold downs are neglected safety items.
I used to work at a collector car dealership and over half of the
"restored" cars we bought were missing the battery hold down.
It was the first item we corrected most of the time.
To avoid terminals shorting to ground due to unforseen events
(accidents, bumps, high G loads) a strong and stable hold
down is essential.  I wonder how many people without good
hold downs are also without fire extinguishers.  Losing a
nice MG to a fire that resulted from negligence is a real shame.

art de armond
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <atweditor at aol.com>
To: <mgb72 at airmail.net>; <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <Mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down


> I know that in colder weather the battery actually shrinks just enough to 
> be
> slightly loose. Also, I was told the story by the folks at Mountjoy in
> Hyattsville, MD of a guy going over the very bumpy railroad tracks by that
> shop and having the battery pop up enough for both terminals to hit the 
> metal
> cover, and the battery exploded. Perhaps urban myth, but my 2X2 keeps me a
> little safer, maybe.
>
> Jay Donoghue
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chad Cooper <mgb72 at airmail.net>
> To: Craig Straub <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: Mgs <Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 12:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down
>
>
> Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there
> pretty
>
> tightly.  If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is the 
> least
>
> of your concerns.
>
>
>
> --- craigstraub at sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
>
>
> From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>
> Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
>
> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500
>
>
>
> Hi list,
>
>
>
> I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt.
>
>
>
> As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Craig
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net 

From twobees at sprynet.com  Thu Jul 22 13:42:23 2010
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:42:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
Message-ID: <008f01cb29d6$01d445e0$6401a8c0@normoffice>

Craig:
 
The ONLY advice to follow is Eric's - a secure tie-down AND, insulate the
posi terminal with a plastic cap.
 
Norm 

From daybell7 at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 14:11:12 2010
From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 16:11:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release
Message-ID: <8CCF7F12A9154F0-1540-B87@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com>

Mg'ers,

Is there an easy and safe way to compress the spring inorder to release the
retainer from the piston on a 1972 MGB brake master cylinder?

Thanks in advance.
Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Thu Jul 22 15:07:20 2010
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:07:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down
In-Reply-To: <mailman.32172.1279818510.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.32172.1279818510.914.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7904DA9F-7AF5-4E12-BE71-3BC5A88484DF@mgcarclub.com>

I used a universal hold down from the local parts store. It fits fore  
and aft on the short side. Needed to drill the front and rear battery  
holder for the J bolts. I think it worked out very nice. (sending  
photos to Craig).

Allen Hess
> Hmm, the problem with reusing the factory holddowns is that there  
> isn't room
> on the sides for the long bolts. So I don't see how this kit would  
> work
> either, with my battery. Obviously, batteries vary in dimensions --  
> mine is
> not so stuck that it couldn't bounce on a California freeway  
> expansion joint
> (not to mention some of the rally roads), so I am using a bungee.
>
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>>
>> Shesh - a few bucks gets you one of these generic battery brackets.
>>
>> http://www.haigh.com.au/images/ProductImages/BHS2.jpg
>>
>> Punch/drill a hole in either side of the battery box for the  
>> uprights to hook
>> into and you are right.  one of these holds my 12v battery in  
>> pretty firmly on
>> a racetrack.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Jul 22 15:35:31 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 14:35:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release
In-Reply-To: <8CCF7F12A9154F0-1540-B87@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCF7F12A9154F0-1540-B87@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimfEws6vzmTlWLpAFz_4vXb2EcTAY-yjvQ2xjfb@mail.gmail.com>

I have always clamped one mounting ear in a vice, and used a long
screwdriver to depress the piston while using circlip pliers to remove the
retainer.  If it turns out you need two hands on the pliers, lean into the
screwdriver and hold it in place with your chest.
Rick

PS a vice and a screwdriver is also how I bench bleed the master before
mounting.

On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 1:11 PM, <daybell7 at aol.com> wrote:

> Mg'ers,
>
> Is there an easy and safe way to compress the spring inorder to release the
> retainer from the piston on a 1972 MGB brake master cylinder?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From thgun at comporium.net  Thu Jul 22 17:23:35 2010
From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:23:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] electronic points
Message-ID: <7149AC9397F84F7687638800C575D162@TOMPC>

I am looking for electronic points for my 1957 1500 MGA rst. Any pointers? I
have MGA parts to trade.
Tom Gunderson

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 22 18:30:37 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:30:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] electronic points
In-Reply-To: <7149AC9397F84F7687638800C575D162@TOMPC>
Message-ID: <C86E30BD.2AD0B%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Ah, you must mean a "pointless" electronic ignition.

The name Pertronix comes to mind.

My B has been running on an Allison optical trigger unit for something like
20 years, so I have to give it kudos for reliability.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/22/10 4:23 PM, Tom Gunderson at thgun at comporium.net wrote:

> I am looking for electronic points for my 1957 1500 MGA rst. Any pointers? I
> have MGA parts to trade.
> Tom Gunderson

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jul 22 18:52:07 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:52:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] electronic points
In-Reply-To: <7149AC9397F84F7687638800C575D162@TOMPC>
References: <7149AC9397F84F7687638800C575D162@TOMPC>
Message-ID: <4C48E7B7.2050806@justbrits.com>

/F16i7o: Permission denied

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jul 22 20:12:43 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:12:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs]  electronic points]
Message-ID: <4C48FA9B.205@justbrits.com>

<< I am looking for electronic points for my 1957 1500 MGA rst. Any 
pointers?
I have MGA parts to trade. >>

Only way I know of to achieve the end result I think you want
Tom, is send the dizzy to Jeff at Advance and have the thing RE-BUILT 
and Petronix ADDED.

'Course I can do same thing but then you would actually have
to pay ME <G>, not Jeff !!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ]

From don at napanet.net  Thu Jul 22 22:17:39 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:17:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
Message-ID: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>

Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a 
'66 B GT just got sold for $15,100.  This has got to be a record, 
and/or an anomaly.  Are prices on the rise?

It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D 
gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all.  Does 
this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable?  Perhaps the red 
colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the 
details.  And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's 
restoration must have impressed some buyers.

They don't call it "resale red"  for nothing.


$15,100

[]


eBay NE Florida

2010-07-15 10:52:47

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320562113872>MG 
: MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Fri Jul 23 04:11:51 2010
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (John Elwood)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 06:11:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
In-Reply-To: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <84494EF5-35D7-40A5-BAEC-D40FEA283F7D@aol.com>

Wow it is pretty, but shame about the no overdrive and black engine.   
I'd have paid the price if it was restored correctly.  -John 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 23 05:52:19 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 04:52:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
In-Reply-To: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <876190.56330.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

"If" it is exactly as the seller says it is, then I'm not too surprised, as 
restored tourers have gone for that much plus. The
seller seems to be reputable, based on 98% positive feedback. And all you really 
need is one person who has that to spend,
and you have a market! It also looks like there were 2 bidders who took it from 
around $10k to the final selling price, so there
was probably some emotion involved as well ("I'm not gonna let that other guy 
beat me out!").

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: don <don at napanet.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 12:17:39 AM
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks

Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a 
'66 B GT just got sold for $15,100.  This has got to be a record, 
and/or an anomaly.  Are prices on the rise?

It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D 
gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all.  Does 
this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable?  Perhaps the red 
colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the 
details.  And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's 
restoration must have impressed some buyers.

They don't call it "resale red"  for nothing.


$15,100

[]


eBay NE Florida

2010-07-15 10:52:47

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320562113872>MG 
: MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Jul 23 10:40:38 2010
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:40:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Indicator switch thingy
Message-ID: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca>

Folks,

I would like to thank all those kind listers who replied to my pleas 
regarding a malfunctioning cancelling switch.  I now have a stack of 
information which will serve to fix my problem.  This group is full 
of awe and I just cannot get over how much listers help.  Thanks a 
ton chaps!

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705--721-9060 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 23 11:22:47 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 10:22:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
In-Reply-To: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <C86F1DF7.2AD4D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars
are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so
98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars
to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences,
perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct
Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else
having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still
be purchasing the labor at a discount.

It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where
originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has
already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the
most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the
marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the
restorer of this GT may be finding out).

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:

> Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a
> '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100.  This has got to be a record,
> and/or an anomaly.  Are prices on the rise?
> 
> It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D
> gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all.  Does
> this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable?  Perhaps the red
> colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the
> details.  And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's
> restoration must have impressed some buyers.
> 
> They don't call it "resale red"  for nothing.
> 
> 
> $15,100
> 
> []
> 
> 
> eBay NE Florida
> 
> 2010-07-15 10:52:47
> 
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320562113872>MG
> : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 23 12:21:45 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:21:45 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>

List,

I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 
MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the 
floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands 
and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) 
refills.

Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to 
someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps?

The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has 
fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small 
piece out!

Ed Woods 

From don at napanet.net  Fri Jul 23 12:47:15 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 11:47:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
In-Reply-To: <C86F1DF7.2AD4D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>
	<C86F1DF7.2AD4D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20100723193932.171AA24DC10@mail.napanet.net>

I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using 
an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and 
detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new.  If I spent 
$60,000 I would expect the details to be much better.  If the car was 
done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed 
attitude toward originality.
Don Scott
2 MGs
1 TR
misc. Japanese cars


At 10:22 AM 07/23/2010, Max Heim wrote:
>I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars
>are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so
>98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars
>to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences,
>perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct
>Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else
>having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still
>be purchasing the labor at a discount.
>
>It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where
>originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has
>already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the
>most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the
>marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the
>restorer of this GT may be finding out).
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:
>
> > Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a
> > '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100.  This has got to be a record,
> > and/or an anomaly.  Are prices on the rise?
> >
> > It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D
> > gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all.  Does
> > this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable?  Perhaps the red
> > colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the
> > details.  And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's
> > restoration must have impressed some buyers.
> >
> > They don't call it "resale red"  for nothing.
> >
> >
> > $15,100
> >
> > []
> >
> >
> > eBay NE Florida
> >
> > 2010-07-15 10:52:47
> >
> > 
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320562113872>MG
> > : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3023 - Release Date: 
>07/22/10 23:36:00

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Fri Jul 23 13:31:55 2010
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:31:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
Message-ID: <20100723153155.d8wheor7ggsg0ow4@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

Listers,
    Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an  
electric-motor MGB?  I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one  
potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn  
it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the  
electric company).
Bill Saidel

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Jul 23 13:32:51 2010
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:32:51 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
Message-ID: <20100723.153251.18794.9@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>

  Yes, there is a better way.  Marine stores sell a pump for filling of
gearboxes on outboard motors. Pump screws into the top of the oil bottle and
it works a treat--doesn't spill when bottle falls over, pumps out the entire
bottle. Good deal all 'round. I think it was $5.99 I paid for mine.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:21:45 -0400

List,

I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72
MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the
floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands
and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy)
refills.

Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to
someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps?

The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has
fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small
piece out!

Ed Woods
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com

From atweditor at aol.com  Fri Jul 23 13:35:59 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:35:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: 29645301
References: 29645301
Message-ID: <8CCF8B5690D0797-20AC-15E7B@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com>

 Ed,

Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge!

Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72, but
it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed from
inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind the
radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car. It's
not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the
carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard
rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick.
Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a
funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your
cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that works
fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick
hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of
oiling the floor of your garage or driveway.

Jay Donoghue
72 MGB-GT
66 Mustang






-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2010 3:24 pm
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB


List,



I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72

MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the

floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands

and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy)

refills.



Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to

someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps?



The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has

fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small

piece out!



Ed Woods

_______________________________________________



Mgs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Jul 23 13:37:09 2010
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:37:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: <02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca>
	<02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <201007231237534.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

There are bottle pumps available. The most expensive are from marine 
supply places for lower units. Less expensive are from farm supply 
places. West Marine online should show something.
             Peter C
==
At 01:21 PM 7/23/2010, Ed Woods wrote:
>List,
>
>I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox 
>on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was 
>on me and the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with 
>the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips 
>from under the car for (messy) refills.
>
>Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it 
>to someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps?
>
>The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring 
>has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay 
>left that small piece out!
>
>Ed Woods _______________________________________________

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 23 13:48:28 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:48:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: <02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <C86F401C.2AD61%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I use one of the hand pumps that come with those gallon jugs of diff oil (or
are available at auto parts stores), that threads onto the neck of the oil
jug, with a length of rubber hose. The biggest problem as far as I am
concerned is ensuring that the car is level. This is hard to do up on 4 jack
stands, when the adjustment on each is in 1-inch increments. I have tried
jacking up one side to get the plug out and insert the hose, then letting it
back down on its wheels, and pumping until I get overflow (this is a side
filler). Accurate but messy (cardboard and a drip pan recommended).

At least you don't have to do the complete fill very often. Usually the
top-off just involves a few squirts.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/23/10 11:21 AM, Ed Woods at fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:

> List,
> 
> I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72
> MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the
> floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands
> and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy)
> refills.
> 
> Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to
> someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps?
> 
> The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has
> fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small
> piece out!
> 
> Ed Woods 

From atweditor at aol.com  Fri Jul 23 13:55:27 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:55:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: 29645301
References: 29645301
Message-ID: <8CCF8B821491B57-20AC-16107@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com>

 Ed,

Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge!

Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72, but
it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed from
inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind the
radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car. It's
not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the
carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard
rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick.
Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a
funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your
cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that works
fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick
hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of
oiling the floor of your garage or driveway.

Jay Donoghue
72 MGB-GT
66 Mustang










-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2010 3:24 pm
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB


List,



I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72

MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the

floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands

and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy)

refills.



Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to

someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps?



The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has

fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small

piece out!



Ed Woods

_______________________________________________



Mgs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

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From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Fri Jul 23 14:38:51 2010
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 16:38:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
In-Reply-To: <20100723193932.171AA24DC10@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <20100723203851.BJCAY.4147.root@cdptpa-web17-z02>

The $$$ claimed to be spent on resto don't matter.  The issue is what is the car worth?  IMO $15K is a bargain.  You can not do this car to that appearance for less....Mel 71BGT
---- don <don at napanet.net> wrote: 
> I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using 
> an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and 
> detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new.  If I spent 
> $60,000 I would expect the details to be much better.  If the car was 
> done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed 
> attitude toward originality.
> Don Scott
> 2 MGs
> 1 TR
> misc. Japanese cars
> 
> 
> At 10:22 AM 07/23/2010, Max Heim wrote:
> >I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars
> >are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so
> >98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars
> >to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences,
> >perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct
> >Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else
> >having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still
> >be purchasing the labor at a discount.
> >
> >It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where
> >originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has
> >already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the
> >most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the
> >marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the
> >restorer of this GT may be finding out).
> >
> >--
> >
> >Max Heim
> >'66 MGB GHN3L76149
> >If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> >it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> >
> >on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:
> >
> > > Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a
> > > '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100.  This has got to be a record,
> > > and/or an anomaly.  Are prices on the rise?
> > >
> > > It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D
> > > gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all.  Does
> > > this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable?  Perhaps the red
> > > colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the
> > > details.  And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's
> > > restoration must have impressed some buyers.
> > >
> > > They don't call it "resale red"  for nothing.
> > >
> > >
> > > $15,100
> > >
> > > []
> > >
> > >
> > > eBay NE Florida
> > >
> > > 2010-07-15 10:52:47
> > >
> > > 
> > <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320562113872>MG
> > > : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> >Mgs at autox.team.net
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don at napanet.net
> >
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3023 - Release Date: 
> >07/22/10 23:36:00
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/melfrankus at carolina.rr.com

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 23 14:51:01 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:51:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
In-Reply-To: <20100723193932.171AA24DC10@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <C86F4EC5.2AD6B%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I don't understand your objection to the engine (well, I understand YOUR
objection, but I don't agree that it's a detriment in the marketplace). It's
a B engine -- that's all this market cares about. The 4-synchro tranny would
be considered an improvement, not a liability, along with negative ground
and the dual circuit MC. Though I do think they should have installed the
air cleaner connector pipe.

This is definitely not a finicky sort of restoration by an old-line MG
specialist, but it would seem to be representative of the sort of thing one
sees in those televised big-buck auctions -- nice paint (red, of course),
generally shiny and well-presented, albeit with lots of shortcuts or
not-quite-there details that are apparent to an expert examination, but not
necessarily deal-breakers to the general public.

I guess what I am suggesting is that the level of detail that you (or I)
would like to see is not a value proposition to the "spec" restorer. "Good
enough" so long as it is attractive in pictures is all they are shooting
for.

I seriously doubt that anyone intentionally invested $60K in this MG. More
likely it was a stalled restoration project that the shop seized on a
mechanic's lien, then quickly finished off at their own expense to make it
sellable (hence the inconsistent level of finish).

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/23/10 11:47 AM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:

> I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using
> an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and
> detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new.  If I spent
> $60,000 I would expect the details to be much better.  If the car was
> done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed
> attitude toward originality.
> Don Scott
> 2 MGs
> 1 TR
> misc. Japanese cars
> 
> 
> At 10:22 AM 07/23/2010, Max Heim wrote:
>> I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars
>> are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so
>> 98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars
>> to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences,
>> perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct
>> Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else
>> having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still
>> be purchasing the labor at a discount.
>> 
>> It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where
>> originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has
>> already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the
>> most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the
>> marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the
>> restorer of this GT may be finding out).
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:
>> 
>>> Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a
>>> '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100.  This has got to be a record,
>>> and/or an anomaly.  Are prices on the rise?
>>> 
>>> It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D
>>> gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all.  Does
>>> this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable?  Perhaps the red
>>> colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the
>>> details.  And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's
>>> restoration must have impressed some buyers.
>>> 
>>> They don't call it "resale red"  for nothing.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> $15,100
>>> 
>>> []
>>> 
>>> 
>>> eBay NE Florida
>>> 
>>> 2010-07-15 10:52:47
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320562113872>M>>
G
>>> : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 23 14:57:29 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:57:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: <02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca>
	<02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <870503.6904.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have heard of people that get a long length of hose and feed it into the hole 
on the side of the gearbox from the engine
compartment, then use a funnel to pour the oil in. Just need to keep peering 
under the car for when the oil starts to leak
out of the filler hole.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 2:21:45 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB

List,

I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB 
with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even 
less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 
quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) refills.

Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to someone 
else? A pump of some kind perhaps?

The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has fixed 
the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece 
out!

Ed Woods _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From eugeneb at nni.com  Fri Jul 23 15:08:40 2010
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:08:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: <201007231237534.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <web-302956041@admin.nni.com>

I picked one up from my local auto supply store.  I have
one that fits the individual bottle and the gallon bottle. 

Gene

80 B


On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:37:09 -0500
 Peter Caldwell <peter at nosimport.com> wrote:
> There are bottle pumps available. The most expensive are
> from marine supply places for lower units. Less expensive
> are from farm supply places. West Marine online should
> show something.
>              Peter C
> ==
> At 01:21 PM 7/23/2010, Ed Woods wrote:
> >List,
> >
> >I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the
> o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A
> good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even less
> fun when you're trying to do it with the car on
> jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips
> from under the car for (messy) refills.
> >
> >Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift
> or taking it to someone else? A pump of some kind
> perhaps?
> >
> >The only good news is that the addition of a non return
> valve spring has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who
> sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece out!
> >
> >Ed Woods _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eugeneb at nni.com

---------------------------------------------------------------------
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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 23 16:03:18 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:03:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
In-Reply-To: <20100723153155.d8wheor7ggsg0ow4@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <C86F5FB6.2AD79%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

You might try googling Stanford Electric Car Club (or something like that)
-- they have run an electric Midget for many years.

There is also a garage somewhere in the Bay Area that specializes in
converting older cars, that may have some info online.

Or some listers may recall a self-published novel on the subject of an
electric or fuel cell MGB -- a little short of technical detail, though.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/23/10 12:31 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu
wrote:

> Listers,
>     Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an
> electric-motor MGB?  I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one
> potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn
> it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the
> electric company).
> Bill Saidel

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Fri Jul 23 16:46:51 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 18:46:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
In-Reply-To: <20100723153155.d8wheor7ggsg0ow4@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
References: <20100723153155.d8wheor7ggsg0ow4@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <4C4A1BDB.1010201@comcast.net>

a google search for electric mgb turned up several projects and a 
supposed how to, although I didn't look.
Good Luck!

Gordie

saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:
> Listers,
>    Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an 
> electric-motor MGB?  I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one 
> potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn 
> it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the 
> electric company).
> Bill Saidel
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus 
> signature database 5307 (20100723) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From lundgren at byu.net  Fri Jul 23 16:54:58 2010
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 16:54:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: <8CCF8B821491B57-20AC-16107@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com>
References: 29645301 <8CCF8B821491B57-20AC-16107@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C4A1DC2.4070907@byu.net>

  I'm with Jay on this one.  That is how I did my '70 B.

On 07/23/2010 01:55 PM, atweditor at aol.com wrote:
>   Ed,
>
> Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge!
>
> Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72, but
> it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed from
> inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind the
> radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car. It's
> not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the
> carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard
> rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick.
> Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a
> funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your
> cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that works
> fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick
> hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of
> oiling the floor of your garage or driveway.
>
> Jay Donoghue
> 72 MGB-GT
> 66 Mustang

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 23 18:38:15 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:38:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
In-Reply-To: <4C4A1DC2.4070907@byu.net>
Message-ID: <C86F8407.2AD96%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Now that I think of it, I used a funnel and hose from under the hood when I
had a top-filler tranny. Pull the dipstick, but run the hose down past the
back of the engine.

 --

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 7/23/10 3:54 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote:

>   I'm with Jay on this one.  That is how I did my '70 B.
> 
> On 07/23/2010 01:55 PM, atweditor at aol.com wrote:
>>   Ed,
>> 
>> Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge!
>> 
>> Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72,
>> but
>> it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed
>> from
>> inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind
>> the
>> radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car.
>> It's
>> not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the
>> carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard
>> rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick.
>> Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a
>> funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your
>> cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that
>> works
>> fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick
>> hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of
>> oiling the floor of your garage or driveway.
>> 
>> Jay Donoghue
>> 72 MGB-GT
>> 66 Mustang

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Jul 23 18:51:13 2010
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:51:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks
In-Reply-To: <20100723193932.171AA24DC10@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100723050949.0244324DD02@mail.napanet.net>
	<C86F1DF7.2AD4D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<20100723193932.171AA24DC10@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <004d01cb2aca$52687950$f7396bf0$@com>

I'd like to hear your opinions on a fair market value for an MGC GT done to
similar spec....

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of don
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 1:47 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks

I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using 
an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and 
detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new.  If I spent 
$60,000 I would expect the details to be much better.  If the car was 
done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed 
attitude toward originality.
Don Scott

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Fri Jul 23 19:27:13 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:27:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
Message-ID: <4C4A4171.4070107@comcast.net>

Lotsa disposable income, eh?

> Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> 	<20100723153155.d8wheor7ggsg0ow4 at webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; DelSp="Yes";
> 	format="flowed"
> 
> Listers,
>     Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an  
> electric-motor MGB?  I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one  
> potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn  
> it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the  
> electric company).
> Bill Saidel

-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Jul 23 21:26:10 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:26:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
In-Reply-To: <4C4A4171.4070107@comcast.net>
References: <4C4A4171.4070107@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimwNkGinCzspVqy8rj2zKr5nGJ--ahUkF11xY2W@mail.gmail.com>

There are three parameters with electric cars.
1. Low price
2.Good acceleration
3. Acceptable range
You may choose any two.

Rick


On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 6:27 PM, Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke at comcast.net>wrote:

> Lotsa disposable income, eh?

From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Jul 23 22:07:41 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 23:07:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca>
	<02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <007501cb2ae5$c3326bd0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Hi Ed,  your  72 B should have a dipstick / filler hole accessed by removing 
a
rubber plug located on the right side of the tunnel just forward of the 
radio/consul
brace.
    I use some vinyl tubing  attached to a funnel.  Hang the funnel from 
something convienant,
make the tubing  just long enough to fit into the filler hole with no sags, 
fill thefunnel and go work on somthing else. Refill the funnel everytime I 
walk by. Either measure out the volume
of fluid you want to put in, or ifthe fill hole is on the side of the Trans, 
set a catch pan
under it. When it runs out of the hole, it is full. Works well with 
differetials too.
Ron Sanborn.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 1:21 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB


> List,
>
> I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my 
> '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and 
> the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on 
> jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the 
> car for (messy) refills.
>
> Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to 
> someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps?
>
> The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has 
> fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that 
> small piece out!
>
> Ed Woods _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 24 02:58:55 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 09:58:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca><02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
	<007501cb2ae5$c3326bd0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <6C4E268762E0417DBF8D53CA5A56A23B@paul>

For a 72 if you fill until it runs out of the hole you have way way too 
much!  This method of judging the quantity is only suitable for the 
side-fill gearboxes on rubber bumper cars (and diffs, of course).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Hi Ed,  your  72 B should have a dipstick / filler hole ...

> When it runs out of the hole, it is full. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 24 02:54:22 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 09:54:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca>
	<02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <65A4F40EC45641638C3F888E99C39D27@paul>

I just used a short length of 1/2" or so hose which made a snug fit on the 
end of the bendy pipe that comes with 1L containers of gearbox or diff oil 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/goc4.jpg.  Both my top-fill 73 and my 
side-fill 75 were refilled from the right-hand footwell which needs a much 
shorter length of pipe than if doing it from the engine compartment, the 
latter cars still have the rubber plug on top of the tunnel where the 
dip-stick used to be.  Wise to put plenty of paper down over carpets though.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my
> '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 24 02:56:05 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 09:56:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
References: <4C4A4171.4070107@comcast.net>
	<AANLkTimwNkGinCzspVqy8rj2zKr5nGJ--ahUkF11xY2W@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <142DC9EE71BD47619C3F9208C67F5651@paul>

Or in the case of most of them, only 2. or 3.

----- Original Message ----- 
> There are three parameters with electric cars.
> 1. Low price
> 2.Good acceleration
> 3. Acceptable range
> You may choose any two.

From daybell7 at aol.com  Sat Jul 24 06:01:23 2010
From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 08:01:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release
In-Reply-To: <8CCF7F12A9154F0-1540-B87@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCF7F12A9154F0-1540-B87@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCF93F11F3D239-69C-1F60F@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>

Mg'ers,

What is the best way to compress the spring to release the retainer on a 1972
MGB brake master cylinder?

Thanks in advance.
Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL

From don at napanet.net  Sat Jul 24 17:48:31 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 16:48:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine blocks
Message-ID: <20100725004103.AE8D024BA5B@mail.napanet.net>

>Now that I am retired, I am going through the car junk accumulation 
>of many years.  I have seven MGB blocks, all with rusty bores, some 
>with cranks still in them.  They were stored inside, but time takes 
>its toll.  Are these boat anchors?  I have MGB suspension pieces, a 
>complete rear end and misc. other junk.  How in the world does a 
>person figure out what to keep and what to discard?  I have a junk 
>man coming here on Monday, and I don't know whether to give 'em to 
>him for scrap or not.  Any advice as to what this stuff is worth, or 
>if it's worth keeping?
>Several years ago I had a yard full (well, 3 actually) of early 
>MGBs.  I sold them for next to nothing.  Now that I am older and 
>wiser (?), I want an early B roadster and
>they are scarce and expensive.  I regret selling them now.  Will I 
>regret throwing away old engine blocks?

Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2 MGs
1 TR
Misc. Japanese cars 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sat Jul 24 19:09:28 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 20:09:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ?
In-Reply-To: <142DC9EE71BD47619C3F9208C67F5651@paul>
References: <4C4A4171.4070107@comcast.net>
	<AANLkTimwNkGinCzspVqy8rj2zKr5nGJ--ahUkF11xY2W@mail.gmail.com>
	<142DC9EE71BD47619C3F9208C67F5651@paul>
Message-ID: <4C4B8EC8.40501@comcast.net>

Old stagehand saying;

Cheap, quick, good. Pick two. Can't have three.

Paul Hunt wrote:
> Or in the case of most of them, only 2. or 3.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> There are three parameters with electric cars.
>> 1. Low price
>> 2.Good acceleration
>> 3. Acceptable range
>> You may choose any two.
> 
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Nil desperandum

Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From runner01 at wowway.com  Sat Jul 24 20:14:13 2010
From: runner01 at wowway.com (Ray Graham)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:14:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
Message-ID: <30D386B81ACC4DA2BB12469FD62F7E3E@AcerPC>

Hey Folks,
Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing when
the engine is running.  Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be?
 
Thanks,
Ray Graham

From doug at ado16.com  Sat Jul 24 22:02:46 2010
From: doug at ado16.com (Doug Mak)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:02:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <30D386B81ACC4DA2BB12469FD62F7E3E@AcerPC>
References: <30D386B81ACC4DA2BB12469FD62F7E3E@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <D7C563A9-E427-4ACA-93B4-313D8E1B1FF3@ado16.com>

Most likely your charging system is failing..

When the dummy light is on, it means you're consuming more battery  
juice than generating.

doug


On 24 Jul 2010, at 19:14, Ray Graham wrote:

> Hey Folks,
> Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is  
> glowing when
> the engine is running.  Anybody got any ideas what the problem could  
> be?

From sgorr2 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 24 22:29:11 2010
From: sgorr2 at comcast.net (Steve Gorr)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 23:29:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <30D386B81ACC4DA2BB12469FD62F7E3E@AcerPC>
References: <30D386B81ACC4DA2BB12469FD62F7E3E@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <001b01cb2bb1$eee45be0$ccad13a0$@net>

Blown alternator diode, loose fan belt are the first that come to mind.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ray Graham
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:14 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light

Hey Folks,
Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing when
the engine is running.  Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be?
 
Thanks,
Ray Graham
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/sgorr2 at comcast.net
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3025 - Release Date: 07/24/10
01:36:00

From palte at gmx.net  Sun Jul 25 02:32:10 2010
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:32:10 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <001b01cb2bb1$eee45be0$ccad13a0$@net>
References: <30D386B81ACC4DA2BB12469FD62F7E3E@AcerPC>
	<001b01cb2bb1$eee45be0$ccad13a0$@net>
Message-ID: <20100725083210.148590@gmx.net>

Hi Ray,

Otherwise, probably worn-out carbon brushes.
BTDT, several times, several cars.
Cheap parts, price only the single-digit range.
If it's a Lucas 16ACR, the Lucas part number is 54219368. (LAX 31-32).
IIRC, you'll really need a 1/4" socket to take out the black 
alternator cover and to remove the brush holder.

Good luck

Bert.


-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 23:29:11 -0500
> Von: "Steve Gorr" <sgorr2 at comcast.net>
> An: "\'Ray Graham\'" <runner01 at wowway.com>, mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light

> Blown alternator diode, loose fan belt are the first that come to mind.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Ray Graham
> Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:14 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
> 
> Hey Folks,
> Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing
> when
> the engine is running.  Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be?
>  
> Thanks,
> Ray Graham
> _
-- 
GRATIS fC<r alle GMX-Mitglieder: Die maxdome Movie-FLAT!
Jetzt freischalten unter http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/maxdome01

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 25 03:26:27 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:26:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
References: <30D386B81ACC4DA2BB12469FD62F7E3E@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <18E7EBFFAAF746FE89A963DC0D45F24A@paul>

Not charging.  The alternator plug can't have fallen out or that would stop 
the warning light glowing at all.  Measure the voltage at the brown wire at 
the alternator plug with the ignition off and engine stopped.  If you see 
12v, then the problem is almost certainly inside the alternator.  But if you 
*don't* see 12v then the thick brown charging wire between the alternator 
and solenoid is either broken or disconnected.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing 
> when
> the engine is running.  Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be?

From daybell7 at aol.com  Sun Jul 25 06:54:32 2010
From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 08:54:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release
In-Reply-To: <8CCF93F11F3D239-69C-1F60F@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCF7F12A9154F0-1540-B87@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CCF93F11F3D239-69C-1F60F@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCFA0FA917A783-1620-14275@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

It's on the 1968 not the 1972.  Different MC.  Thanks.  Steve H.








Mg'ers,

What is the best way to compress the spring to release the retainer on a 1972
MGB brake master cylinder?

Thanks in advance.
Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 25 08:28:56 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 15:28:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release
References: <8CCF7F12A9154F0-1540-B87@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com><8CCF93F11F3D239-69C-1F60F@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CCFA0FA917A783-1620-14275@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <2B6DAA64D38447B38E63BDC2A8266518@paul>

I presume you mean the single-circuit master used on Mk1 cars, not used on 
American spec after that?  From August 68 to the end of the 74 model year 
American cars used the same unboosted dual circuit master, AFAIK.  For the 
single-circuit master you simply remove the circlip and the piston, spring 
and seals come out.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> It's on the 1968 not the 1972.  Different MC. 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Jul 25 10:04:39 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:04:39 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine blocks
In-Reply-To: <20100725004103.AE8D024BA5B@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100725004103.AE8D024BA5B@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07143110@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I think there is some value. I remember buying an engine block about 20
years ago because I needed the crank. They can only be reground so many
times. So I am sure someone has a need. Early engine blocks (18G) may
have some value due to a limited supply, particularly the three main
bearing engines. The rear axle, if it is a banjo type, is scarce,
particularly the original wire wheel version. I could use one of those
except I am probably about 1500 miles away.

There are salvage yards that specialize in English cars that could give
you an idea of value or maybe offer some money for them. My son bartered
some of his excess MG parts to British Auto Works (Portland, OR) in
exchange for credit, disposing of parts from a 1972 MG for parts he
needs restoring a 66 B.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of don
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 5:49 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine blocks

>Now that I am retired, I am going through the car junk accumulation of
>many years.  I have seven MGB blocks, all with rusty bores, some with
>cranks still in them.  They were stored inside, but time takes its
>toll.  Are these boat anchors?  I have MGB suspension pieces, a
>complete rear end and misc. other junk.  How in the world does a person

>figure out what to keep and what to discard?  I have a junk man coming
>here on Monday, and I don't know whether to give 'em to him for scrap
>or not.  Any advice as to what this stuff is worth, or if it's worth
>keeping?
>Several years ago I had a yard full (well, 3 actually) of early MGBs.
>I sold them for next to nothing.  Now that I am older and wiser (?), I
>want an early B roadster and they are scarce and expensive.  I regret
>selling them now.  Will I regret throwing away old engine blocks?

Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2 MGs
1 TR
Misc. Japanese cars

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Jul 25 11:25:35 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 11:25:35 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] front hub reassembly
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07143113@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I am about to change the hubs on my 64B. The proper way would be to use
shims to "give slightly excessive end float" and "measure the end float
with a dial gauge" (quotes from my Haynes manual). My Bentley manual
says "using a clock gauge...". Any suggestions on how this really works
and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and
bearings (disc wheels)?



David Councill

64 B

67 BGT

72 B

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Sun Jul 25 12:59:11 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 14:59:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] front hub reassembly
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07143113@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07143113@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <4C4C897F.30800@comcast.net>

IIRC, you can do it without the gauge by a method of adding/removing 
shims.  Too few, or too many (not sure which) will cause the wheel to 
lock and not spin when the nut is tightened.  Adding/removing shims 
until the thinnist shim possible allows the wheel to spin.  Of course, 
this requires a good selection of the different size shims and I'm sure 
a Moss catalog will give you the sizes available.
I'm sure others are aware of this method and probably have a much better 
explaination.

Gordie
'62 MGA
'67 BGT

Councill, David wrote:
> I am about to change the hubs on my 64B. The proper way would be to use
> shims to "give slightly excessive end float" and "measure the end float
> with a dial gauge" (quotes from my Haynes manual). My Bentley manual
> says "using a clock gauge...". Any suggestions on how this really works
> and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and
> bearings (disc wheels)?
>
>
>
> David Councill
>
> 64 B
>
> 67 BGT
>
> 72 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5311 (20100725) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Jul 25 13:25:28 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 14:25:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] front hub reassembly
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07143113@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07143113@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <4C4C8FA8.3000306@justbrits.com>

/dKgSLS: Permission denied

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Jul 25 15:07:34 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 16:07:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] front hub reassembly]
Message-ID: <4C4CA796.6020204@justbrits.com>

Yep, Gordie !! <G>  If I hadn't tried to send in HTML I woulda
beat ya too it<G>!!

<< Any suggestions on how this really works and what tool I may need to 
measure this when I assemble the hubs and bearings (disc wheels)? >>

"Various Articles" bottom left IIRC is a "How to...." I have used
for decades. 

And I stock a goodly # of required shims along with bearing & deals.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ]

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 26 02:00:03 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:00:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] front hub reassembly
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F07143113@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <616EF9CB8BD44405AB8CF838A9A6ADE7@paul>

The end-float should be .002" to .004" which on the face of it needs a 
dial-gauge, but you can get the same accuracy without.  Presumably you are 
installing new bearings to the replacement hubs, if so install everything 
except the shims and tighten the hub nut until you can feel the hub binding, 
and this seats the outer parts of the bearings in the hub.  Don't grease the 
races until you have determined the shims required as it is cleaner and 
easier without.  Changing the hubs you almost certainly *will* need to 
reshim, although when changing just bearings maybe not, I didn't.  Shims are 
available in .003, .005 and .010 sizes, plus there should be a .030 shim in 
there, get a selection of spares of the three smaller sizes.  The objective 
is to juggle shims until you end up with one set (which go between the 
spacer and the outer bearing) that gives no perceptible play, and one set 
.001 thicker that gives barely perceptible play, and add a .003 to the 
*thinner* set.  The grease the races by pressing grease in with your thumb, 
or injecting it with the body of a hypodermic syringe, but *only* from one 
side and keep doing it until it comes out of the other side.  Don't be 
tempted to press it in from both sides and save time or there will be 
air-spaces in the middle.  Grease the lip of the oil seal, and pack the 
cavity of the oil seal (which should be facing into the bearing), but don't 
pack the middle part i.e. the large spacer.  Refit everything, including the 
outer sealing washer, and tighten the hub nut to 40 ft lb.  Then tighten 
further until the first set of split-pin holes line up, which should happen 
before 70 ft lb, and insert the split pin.  Check the hub rotates freely and 
there is still just perceptible play.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I am about to change the hubs on my 64B. The proper way would be to use
> shims to "give slightly excessive end float" and "measure the end float
> with a dial gauge" (quotes from my Haynes manual). My Bentley manual
> says "using a clock gauge...". Any suggestions on how this really works
> and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and
> bearings (disc wheels)?

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Jul 26 04:59:30 2010
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 06:59:30 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Delavan MGA GT
Message-ID: <D4C0D089-3101-49AC-81C4-951FDD1A9657@tampabay.rr.com>

Hope to see several of you up there.
Dave Houser

From atweditor at aol.com  Mon Jul 26 08:25:37 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 10:25:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: 29645860
References: 29645860
Message-ID: <8CCFAE619D0E919-18DC-15A73@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>

 I agree with all that say you have a major charging issue. I had an
alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a cross-country trip and
managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the last few miles
the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim.

Jay Donoghue






-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: Ray Graham <runner01 at wowway.com>; mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2010 6:37 am
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light


Not charging.  The alternator plug can't have fallen out or that would stop

the warning light glowing at all.  Measure the voltage at the brown wire at

the alternator plug with the ignition off and engine stopped.  If you see

12v, then the problem is almost certainly inside the alternator.  But if you

*don't* see 12v then the thick brown charging wire between the alternator

and solenoid is either broken or disconnected.



PaulH.



----- Original Message -----

> Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing

> when

> the engine is running.  Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be?

_______________________________________________



Mgs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From runner01 at wowway.com  Mon Jul 26 17:45:21 2010
From: runner01 at wowway.com (Ray Graham)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 18:45:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
Message-ID: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>

Folks,
Thanks all who responded.  I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to
the alternator.  The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local
AutoZone, I have heard they can do that?  There is a local shop that
rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from
Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping?

Thanks for the help,
Ray Graham

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 26 18:59:09 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 20:59:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
References: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <8BDE95E7B42049399C6D7912B825C518@Edscomputer>

Ray,

I bought a rebuilt Lucas alternator for my daughter's '72 at AutoZone last 
year. It was around $70 with a lifetime guarantee. Looked like new. Performs 
like new.

Ed Woods 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 26 19:10:50 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 21:10:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca><02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer>
	<007501cb2ae5$c3326bd0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>
	<6C4E268762E0417DBF8D53CA5A56A23B@paul>
Message-ID: <F5ECB454CB5442869599445AFB4181C2@Edscomputer>

List,

Thanks for all the replys on my gearbox query.

I mistakenly assumed that it was common knowledge that my '72 had a side 
fill box. At least the overdrive gearbox that I installed during this 
extended recondioning is a side fill unit. I just checked the original, non 
o/d 'box and as you all know, it's a top fill!

So much for my lack of familiarity with MGB changes.

I will find a pump, as suggested, for next time.

Ed Woods 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 26 09:39:51 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 16:39:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
References: 29645860 <8CCFAE619D0E919-18DC-15A73@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6DAF52C6FBD14D55B319DE89FF8CEF23@paul>

Amazing, especially with lights on!  I only managed about 30 in an 80s car
with an early engine management system and it started running rough, no
lights.  I always knew MGBs were 10 times better than modern cars ...

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  ... I had an alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a cross-country
trip and managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the last
few miles the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim.

From palte at gmx.net  Tue Jul 27 02:11:17 2010
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 10:11:17 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <6DAF52C6FBD14D55B319DE89FF8CEF23@paul>
References: 29645860 <8CCFAE619D0E919-18DC-15A73@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
	<6DAF52C6FBD14D55B319DE89FF8CEF23@paul>
Message-ID: <20100727081117.257340@gmx.net>

BTDT, once, when I was in Luxemburg with the MGB, the alternator light indicated that there was a malfunction.
I switched off the light and managed to get home, although, when I had to fill up the petrol tank, the car had to be push started.
This was a 350 km drive. 

Bert

-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 16:39:51 +0100
> Von: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> An: mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light

> Amazing, especially with lights on!  I only managed about 30 in an 80s car
> with an early engine management system and it started running rough, no
> lights.  I always knew MGBs were 10 times better than modern cars ...
> 
> PaulH.
> 
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   ... I had an alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a
> cross-country
> trip and managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the
> last
> few miles the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net

-- 
Neu: GMX De-Mail - Einfach wie E-Mail, sicher wie ein Brief!  
Jetzt De-Mail-Adresse reservieren: http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/demail

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 27 01:51:08 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 08:51:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
References: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <5AA13174C8374FC09FE68AE52B29BFF1@paul>

With a repair only the repair is (probably) guaranteed, but the rest of the 
components will be untouched and could have been stressed by the fault.  A 
rebuilt unit is hopefully what is says, with all the usual wear points 
checked/replaced, and should come with a full guarantee.  Personally I would 
go for an exchange unit.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  There is a local shop that
> rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one ... 

From mjanacek at snet.net  Tue Jul 27 02:51:38 2010
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 04:51:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>
References: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <4C4E9E1A.9070709@snet.net>

Yes, Autozone should be able to test your alternator and supply a 
rebuilt one if you desire.
Also you might want to price check other auto parts stores in your area 
and look on Ebay.
Mike

Ray Graham wrote:
> Folks,
> Thanks all who responded.  I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to
> the alternator.  The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local
> AutoZone, I have heard they can do that?  There is a local shop that
> rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from
> Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Ray Graham

From atweditor at aol.com  Tue Jul 27 07:22:26 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 09:22:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: 29646680
References: 29646680
Message-ID: <8CCFBA6715A8D20-12B0-B2D1@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>

 Not only the lights, but the wipers, too, for a while, and the radio, with
each being turned off as I neared my destination.

I was driving Savannah-D.C., and somewhere midway on the trip the light began
to glow. Thinking back, I suspect I still had some power coming from the
alternator. When I finally arrived, the battery was so dead I couldn't even
jump start the car and I had to tow it to good old Manhattan Motors, who fixed
it as it was still under warranty in 1969. However, Manhattan, being the swine
they were, also said they did a tune-up (which I had just done in Savannah
before leaving) and wanted to charge me tons for that work. I hit the roof and
they moved the conversation into a back room. There they cut the charge in
half and I, being a callow 21-year-old freshly returned from 'Nam, caved and
paid it, the scum.

Jay






-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 27, 2010 3:41 am
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light


Amazing, especially with lights on!  I only managed about 30 in an 80s car

with an early engine management system and it started running rough, no

lights.  I always knew MGBs were 10 times better than modern cars ...



PaulH.



  ----- Original Message -----

  ... I had an alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a cross-country

trip and managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the last

few miles the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim.

_______________________________________________



Mgs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 27 09:18:59 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 08:18:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <C87446F3.2AE64%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

You don't have to pull the alternator to get it checked. At least, my local
Kragens (O'Reilly/Checker) will test it on the car.

on 7/26/10 4:45 PM, Ray Graham at runner01 at wowway.com wrote:

> Folks,
> Thanks all who responded.  I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to
> the alternator.  The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local
> AutoZone, I have heard they can do that?  There is a local shop that
> rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from
> Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping?
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> Ray Graham

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

Max Heim
mvheim at sbcglobal.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jul 27 19:07:46 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 20:07:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <C87446F3.2AE64%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C87446F3.2AE64%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4C4F82E2.1030209@justbrits.com>

<< At least, my local Kragens (O'Reilly/Checker) will test it on the car. >>

Advance and A.Z. also, at least around here.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ]

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Jul 28 10:41:55 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:41:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MGB for sale
Message-ID: <C7B286D6B072428B9C476DC162E7FA74@EricJRussellPC>

We'll be selling our '78 MGB. If you know anyone who'd like a well sorted
'driver', pass the word: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1867887028.html

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Wed Jul 28 15:47:39 2010
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (mgmagnette at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:47:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] British Car Photography Website
Message-ID: <8CCFCB5A2547C08-1344-10DA@Webmail-d107.sysops.aol.com>

This is a commercial site, but the pictures are STUNNING... mostly from BMHIT

http://www.motorgraphs.com/index.php

I'm a Farina Magnette fan, so seeing 4-5 period photos I'd never seen was very
interesting to me.

-John

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Jul 29 05:19:34 2010
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 06:19:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light
In-Reply-To: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>
References: <70B46B6A06464E968A36942789875826@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <4C5163C6.1000803@ktc.com>

Have  Autozone check it on the car.  If it's not working buy a rebuilt 
Duralast ( it's what' on my B) from them and have a lifetime guarantee.

   CR

On 7/26/2010 6:45 PM, Ray Graham wrote:
> Folks,
> Thanks all who responded.  I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to
> the alternator.  The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local
> AutoZone, I have heard they can do that?  There is a local shop that
> rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from
> Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Ray Graham

From eugeneb at nni.com  Thu Jul 29 08:00:11 2010
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:00:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush
Message-ID: <web-305028428@admin.nni.com>

All, 

I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B.  I
plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner,
or "Super" Radiator Flush.

Does anyone have experience with either of these products
before ?  Any issues, especially with clogging the heater
core ?   Any other cooling/radiator flush issues  that I
should be aware of with ?

Thanks,

   Gene 
     80 B
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
http://www.nni.com/

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Jul 29 08:14:43 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:14:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush
In-Reply-To: <web-305028428@admin.nni.com>
References: <web-305028428@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim_x5_qTbDyVHzbWwoX+sFbfpubyGE7r04FMrV7@mail.gmail.com>

1. Make sure you dispose of the old coolant properly.  wipe up or hose down
any coolant spills, antifreeze is poisonous and tastes sweet, so small
animals like your dog or cat will drink it and die.  Check local laws, it
may be illegal to dump old antifreeze in the sewer or storm drain.
2. flushes are caustic, wear gloves and eye protection.  Wear old clothes,
you will probably wind up getting wet somewhere along the line.
3. It may take several batches of fresh water to get all of the flush out.
4. Pulling the t-stat before doing the flush can make the job easier,
replace it when you are done.
That is what comes off the top of my head, good luck and have fun.
Rick



On Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 7:00 AM, Eugene Balinski <eugeneb at nni.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B.  I
> plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner,
> or "Super" Radiator Flush.
>
> Does anyone have experience with either of these products
> before ?  Any issues, especially with clogging the heater
> core ?   Any other cooling/radiator flush issues  that I
> should be aware of with ?
>
> Thanks,
>
>   Gene
>     80 B
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
> http://www.nni.com/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul 29 08:25:44 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:25:44 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush
References: <web-305028428@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <BC6AADF620B646DCAECF3FEC60CD3BB0@paul>

You should be flushing the heater, block *and* radiator, and I wouldn't 
expect it to clog anything, wouldn't be much good as a flushing agent if it 
did!  You should remove various hoses to enable you to forward and reverse 
flush each component, although this is best done with a hose, possibly after 
using the flushing agent in the system as a whole, then draining.  If the 
flushing agent is used hot then allow the engine to cool before using a hose 
and cold water.  If a radiator leak sealer has been used in the past none of 
this maybe enough to fully clear the radiator (or heater), you may have to 
unsolder the header tank and rod the tubes out.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Does anyone have experience with either of these products
> before ?  Any issues, especially with clogging the heater
> core ?   Any other cooling/radiator flush issues  that I
> should be aware of with ?

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Jul 29 09:15:17 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:15:17 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush
In-Reply-To: <web-305028428@admin.nni.com>
References: <web-305028428@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D87E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I have used radiator cleaners twice, both on vehicles with rusty colored
coolant. I also use the water flush method which is just a kit where you
hook up a hose to the heater line and force water through and out the
top of the radiator until it comes out clear, then drain the water. This
is probably best just for routine cleaning.

On the rusty coolant, I recall on my 71BGT using what were oxalic acid
crystals poured into the radiator, running the engine for 10-15 minutes,
draining, adding water and a neutralizer, run engine, drain. That was
maybe 25 years ago and I think cleaners now are in liquid form. I used
what was probably the Prestone radiator cleaner on my son's Chevy S10 a
few years ago. They do clean fairly well but the key is making sure you
flush the cleaner out at the end of the process so its corrosive action
is short term.

As I recall on my 71BGT, my heater core was already clogged when I did
the cleaning so the cleaner did not help enough (heat was minimal). It
was back in the early to mid 80s and my 71BGT was a daily driver for a
104 mile round trip commute under cold weather conditions (as cold as
-20 F). That called for a creative fix, probably not recommended, but I
pulled the heater core out of the case which involved bending the case a
small bit to get it out. I then poured a solution of cleaner into the
heater core and warmed the core on a propane stove. Drained/repeated
until the solution was clear and then put it back in the car. That
brought me heat in the BGT for cold winter drives although when below
zero I also had to put cardboard over part of the radiator to keep
coolant temps up.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B (powered by my 71BGT parts)


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Eugene Balinski
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 8:00 AM
To: mgs at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush

All,

I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B.  I
plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner,
or "Super" Radiator Flush.

Does anyone have experience with either of these products
before ?  Any issues, especially with clogging the heater
core ?   Any other cooling/radiator flush issues  that I
should be aware of with ?

Thanks,

   Gene
     80 B

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jul 29 09:24:33 2010
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:24:33 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush
Message-ID: <20100729.112433.20789.7@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>

Gene,
   Paul's suggestions are spot on; his is just the way I do my cleaning.
   Though it seems a nuisance, do flush the heater separately. Heaters seem to
retain more sediment than the radiators, a surprisingly large amount.
   While you are at it, look into the hose end of the heater valve. Sometimes
there is an accumulation of sediment there. If you see it, then the valve must
be removed in order to clean the water passage to the head.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
To: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:00:11 -0400

All,

I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B.  I
plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner,
or "Super" Radiator Flush.

Does anyone have experience with either of these products
before ?  Any issues, especially with clogging the heater
core ?   Any other cooling/radiator flush issues  that I
should be aware of with ?

Thanks,

   Gene
     80 B

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 29 10:49:06 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:49:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] retorque
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca><02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer><007501cb2ae5$c3326bd0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><6C4E268762E0417DBF8D53CA5A56A23B@paul>
	<F5ECB454CB5442869599445AFB4181C2@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <EAAAC3EA76884E938E4A96DDDD150C45@Edscomputer>

List,

Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial 
installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what 
value?

Ed Woods 

From mike at sportscarslimited.net  Thu Jul 29 11:19:40 2010
From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:19:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] retorque
In-Reply-To: <EAAAC3EA76884E938E4A96DDDD150C45@Edscomputer>
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca><02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer><007501cb2ae5$c3326bd0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><6C4E268762E0417DBF8D53CA5A56A23B@paul><F5ECB454CB5442869599445AFB4181C2@Edscomputer>
	<EAAAC3EA76884E938E4A96DDDD150C45@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <2FB4BA7B8D3B49C8A93DCAC17FBB092A@scloffice>

If it came new in  the box, I'd guess there should have been some
directions. Failing that check with Mike Pierce Manifolds:
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I'd always trust the manufacturer rather than a random sampling of the
community. You've paid your money, why not preserve the warrantee?

Mike


Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
10170 Croydon Way
Suite M
Sacramento, CA 95826
 
(916)366-0330
mike at sportscarslimited.net
 

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ed Woods
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:49 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] retorque

List,

Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial
installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what
value?

Ed Woods
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike at sportscarslimited.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jul 29 16:05:42 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 17:05:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No LBC!)
Message-ID: <4C51FB36.409@justbrits.com>

 From the Spridgets List.  Pretty kewl <G> !!!

-------- Original Message --------

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/hardtalk/8849492.stm

-- 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 30 01:57:31 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:57:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No
 LBC!)
References: <4C51FB36.409@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <78A3A1C709A642BD80CC86A11E07269F@paul>

And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their 
life-changing accidents.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv

----- Original Message -----  

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 30 01:48:58 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:48:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] retorque
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca><02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer><007501cb2ae5$c3326bd0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><6C4E268762E0417DBF8D53CA5A56A23B@paul><F5ECB454CB5442869599445AFB4181C2@Edscomputer>
	<EAAAC3EA76884E938E4A96DDDD150C45@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <56F981EE9D984A0AA8E168B4A21A66E2@paul>

What have you torqued it to initially?  The only instruction I have come 
across is to retorque to the initial figures, where it is done at all.  V8s 
have aluminium heads and there are no special instructions for that compared 
to the 4-cylinder.  What you *should* do though is back the nut off just 
enough to get it moving before retorquing, as it needs more torque to get it 
started from stiction of the threads than it is applying to the gasket. 
*Don't* back the nuts right off to finger tight before retorquing, there is 
no point and as most head removal instructions say to undo them gradually in 
rotation to prevent warping it sounds positively dangerous to me.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial 
> installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what 
> value?

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Fri Jul 30 05:34:33 2010
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:34:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No
 LBC!)
In-Reply-To: <78A3A1C709A642BD80CC86A11E07269F@paul>
References: <4C51FB36.409@justbrits.com>
	<78A3A1C709A642BD80CC86A11E07269F@paul>
Message-ID: <4C52B8C9.9030908@comcast.net>

Unfortunately, it is only available to those of you in the U.K. :-(
Hey, could it be copied to another site?

Paul Hunt wrote:
> And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their 
> life-changing accidents.
>
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv
>
> ----- Original Message -----  
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus 
> signature database 5324 (20100729) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 30 08:03:17 2010
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:03:17 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No
 LBC!)
References: <4C51FB36.409@justbrits.com><78A3A1C709A642BD80CC86A11E07269F@paul>
	<4C52B8C9.9030908@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4105803DA4E04F3F8F3ED2F1E75ABD70@paul>

I'd have to look into that, but in the meantime you might have more luck 
with this trailer:

http://www.stirlingmoss.com/video/hammond-meets-moss-trailer-airs-bbc-4-6th-june-900pm

----- Original Message ----- 
> Unfortunately, it is only available to those of you in the U.K. :-(
> Hey, could it be copied to another site?
>
> Paul Hunt wrote:
>> And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their 
>> life-changing accidents.
>>
>> http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv

From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Jul 30 09:37:50 2010
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:37:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] retorque
References: <E1OcLJW-00061A-2H@eta.look.ca><02CB8D92F8C44D91A2BF31D92EC3B525@Edscomputer><007501cb2ae5$c3326bd0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><6C4E268762E0417DBF8D53CA5A56A23B@paul><F5ECB454CB5442869599445AFB4181C2@Edscomputer><EAAAC3EA76884E938E4A96DDDD150C45@Edscomputer>
	<56F981EE9D984A0AA8E168B4A21A66E2@paul>
Message-ID: <003b01cb2ffd$2b772110$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

There is some variety of opinion about this retorqueing business.

my $.02:    I believe the engine should be allowed to cool to near room
                 temperature before retorque.  Loosen nuts one at a time 
only
                 enough to overcome the initial friction.  Retourque to 
within
                 20 lbs of finishing torque.   when all nuts are at this 
point,
                 finish the march to finishing torque in rounds of 5 lbs.
                 Don't use aluminum paint as a sealant.   I like Gaskacinch
                 and KW Coppercoat as sealants on those gaskets requiring
                 sealant.   Multiple coats of these work pretty well on 
those
                 pesky manifold gaskets that have all the little divots.
                 I don't know how to seperate my science from my voodoo,
                 so i won't try.      Good Luck!

                 riverside

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] retorque


> What have you torqued it to initially?  The only instruction I have come 
> across is to retorque to the initial figures, where it is done at all. 
> V8s have aluminium heads and there are no special instructions for that 
> compared to the 4-cylinder.  What you *should* do though is back the nut 
> off just enough to get it moving before retorquing, as it needs more 
> torque to get it started from stiction of the threads than it is applying 
> to the gasket. *Don't* back the nuts right off to finger tight before 
> retorquing, there is no point and as most head removal instructions say to 
> undo them gradually in rotation to prevent warping it sounds positively 
> dangerous to me.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial 
>> installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what 
>> value?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net 

From mlambdin at towson.edu  Fri Jul 30 10:06:38 2010
From: mlambdin at towson.edu (Lambdin, Mike)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:06:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No
 LBC!)
In-Reply-To: <4C52B8C9.9030908@comcast.net>
References: <4C51FB36.409@justbrits.com>
	<78A3A1C709A642BD80CC86A11E07269F@paul> <4C52B8C9.9030908@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08014F7073301D@OAK.towson.edu>

The problem is, most likely, a legal one...as opposed to technical.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of gordies garage
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 7:35 AM
To: 4 -MGs
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No
LBC!)

Unfortunately, it is only available to those of you in the U.K. :-( Hey, could
it be copied to another site?

Paul Hunt wrote:
> And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their
> life-changing accidents.
>
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage at comcast.net
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 5324 (20100729) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mlambdin at towson.edu

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 30 10:07:30 2010
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:07:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Dealership sign,
	double sided MG / Austin Healey on e-bay - NFI
Message-ID: <895383.65596.qm@web36805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you are into automobilia or have a restoration shop, there is a sign on e-bay. I have the same sign, double sided in a metal frame; MG / Austin on the bottom. It is in my two car garage, against the wall. I moved it twice, 1st when purchased in Glen Burnie MD, and than when I moved to Ellicott City MD.

My sign was purchase from a BMC dealership and found on a used car lot. I located the owner of the business stating I wanted to purchase the sign, and asked about the price. He wanted $300.00. I stated that I was a Triumph guy and purpose of purchase was to trade for a Triumph sign. He than offered me the sign for $100.00. I stated I did not have $100.00 on me. He than stated how much did I had in my pocket. I counted out $20.00 and change.
I stated I still had to pay to move the sign and that it could be broken at any time. He accepted my offer.

MG austin healey dealership sign
Item number:120599738178

Auction can end at any time, as item is also being offered for sale locally. 
Please contact us at Kunkle Motors with any questions.
570-675-1546

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=120599738178&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2127.m39.l1313%26_nkw%3D120599738178%26_sacat%3D%26_fvi%3D1&viewitem=

Kind regards
Pete Groh (KeyGuy)