From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Feb  1 12:45:46 2010
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 20:45:46 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] wanted - now DSG 7 speed
References: <1562e.14f46d10.388a3ea7@aol.com><a3b984e11001211618t1092cf4bjb273321983728666@mail.gmail.com><C5E0B537F83F41C7AE2693DCB38DF658@uw471de61b465c><218355.72115.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<BE21E6FD341D48CE81347BB3849F2A6D@uw471de61b465c>
	<D4A882BE634A450E98B4F15096B0A222@paul>
	<08ABF3E69EF3473EAF38236C8BCCBC66@uw471de61b465c>
	<BDDC6A8CAC204E28B2752F89B42C0A10@paul> <4B64A48D.10406@ktc.com>
	<067BCF52BABE4545BAF3E2391EE95713@uw471de61b465c>
	<539146.4922.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F46131CCBA0D435BA8BCD736E932C6AD@uw471de61b465c>

Dan,

I think you're right.
I got the name from a basic A4 configuration and I assume Audi will not use
traditional automatic gearboxes anymore.

Cheers,

Hans

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dan DiBiase
  To: Hans Duinhoven ; ccrobins at ktc.com ; Paul Hunt
  Cc: mgs at Autox.Team.Net
  Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 3:34 AM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] wanted - now DSG 7 speed


  Actually, Hans, Tiptronic is the regular Audi automatic transmission with
manual shift feature. Their version of the
  DSG was called S-Tronic. Not sure if it still is, or if they just call it
DSG now as well. But Tiptronic isn't it....


  Dan D
  Central NJ USA
  '76 MGB Tourer
  '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
  NAMGBR #5-2328
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
  http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
  http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
  http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
  twitter: dandibiase






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  From: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
  To: ccrobins at ktc.com; Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
  Cc: mgs at Autox.Team.Net
  Sent: Sun, January 31, 2010 2:24:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] wanted - now DSG 7 speed

  I never studied the DSG principles, but
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct-Shift_Gearbox gives a nice explanation.
BTW Audi calls this gearbox Tip-Tronic


  Cheers,

  Hans
  ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson"
<ccrobins at ktc.com>
  To: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
  Cc: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>; <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
  Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 10:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] wanted - now DSG 7 speed


  > The Prius will sort of freewheel with the engine shut down at speed below
~40 mph.  It's called "gliding" by those who know how to extract this behavior
from the car.  It isn't really freewheeling, it's a matter of MG1 spinning at
a speed that allows the engine to cease rotation - possible in a 3-way
planetary gearset.
  >
  > Have you read up on how the DSG gearbox(s) work?
  >
  >  CR
  >
  > On 1/30/2010 10:31 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
  >> Interesting if the designers have decided to freewheel and keep the
engine ticking over rather than keep the momentum of the car spinning the
engine and shut off the fuel completely, it implies the former is more
economical. Mind you if you have stop/start then it could do both i.e. use no
fuel *and* have minimum drag.  The computer restarting the engine and matching
revs to road speed as well as engaging the appropriate gear and clutch.
  >>
  >> PaulH.
  >>
  >> ----- Original Message -----
  >>> ... This gearbox gets into a "free" coasting state whenever the speed is
over 20 Km/h or higher and the throttle pedal is fully released.
  >>> But whenever I apply the brakepedal, the DG box immediately engages the
right gearnumber for the current speed.
  >> _______________________________________________
  >>
  >> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >>
  >> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
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From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 12:58:14 2010
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 14:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB steel bonnet
Message-ID: <7F5C218F7C2C4EB09DF86E0494790B6B@Edscomputer>

Anyone out there in the Pittsburgh, PA area with a good steel MGB bonnet,
a.k.a. "hood" for sale?

Please reply off list.

Ed Woods

From don at napanet.net  Wed Feb  3 10:02:37 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 09:02:37 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
Message-ID: <20100203171707.AB77124DDBF@mail.napanet.net>

Thre Triumph list has had several postings regarding the listing of 
two venerable Triumphs on Time Magazines 50 Worst Cars list.  I went 
to the Time website and I see that the MGA Twin Cam is also on that 
list.  Ironically, the author of the article says he has an OHV MGA himself!

http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/article/0,28804,1658545_1657867_1657786,00.html

Don Scott
Calistoga, CA

1962 MGA Mk II
1973 MGB GT (selling)
2001 Miata SE BRG
63-67 MGB (searching)

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Wed Feb  3 10:07:12 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:07:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel pump diaphram
Message-ID: <SNT124-W8377003B4C97CFF228733B7560@phx.gbl>

Folks, I recently started a rebuild on the fuel pump for my '73 Midget.  When
I withdrew the diaphram, it sort of delaminated - split into two pieces, a
very pliable rubber diaphram and thinner layer that appears to be a clear
plastic coating that was on the non-fuel side of the diaphram.  My question
is, can I just cut away the clear plastic layer and rebuild with the old
diaphram, or do I need to get a whole new diaphram?



Thanks,

-Mike Eldred

'73 Midget

'54 TF Midget

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
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From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Feb  3 11:32:48 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:32:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel pump diaphram
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W8377003B4C97CFF228733B7560@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W8377003B4C97CFF228733B7560@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BD698689-A8DA-4688-BC4E-DE06D69E3DD9@gmail.com>

I don't know whether you could or not.

But to me, if I were rebuilding a fuel pump, I would replace the diaphram as a
matter of course.

Not replacing would be like pulling the engine to replace the clutch, and then
changing the clutch disc but not the pressure plate.

Paul.



On Feb 3, 2010, at 11:07 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:

> Folks, I recently started a rebuild on the fuel pump for my '73 Midget.
When
> I withdrew the diaphram, it sort of delaminated - split into two pieces, a
> very pliable rubber diaphram and thinner layer that appears to be a clear
> plastic coating that was on the non-fuel side of the diaphram.  My question
> is, can I just cut away the clear plastic layer and rebuild with the old
> diaphram, or do I need to get a whole new diaphram?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Mike Eldred
>
> '73 Midget
>
> '54 TF Midget
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From twobees at sprynet.com  Wed Feb  3 13:14:21 2010
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 15:14:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
Message-ID: <007101caa50d$7915f340$6401a8c0@normoffice>

VERY strange list.
 
Yes, some real dogs on there.  And, some orphans.  But, some real good cars
there too--like the MGA T/Cam.
 
No accounting for some people's taste or logic.
 
Norm

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Wed Feb  3 15:11:35 2010
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 17:11:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
Message-ID: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>

What a shame. I guess everyone will be turning their Twinkies in now 
since they won't be worth anything. As a special service, I'll be 
collecting them for you at my central Missouri (US) location. I would 
prefer you bring them yourself, but I suppose I could come and pick 
them up if you covered my fuel costs. No, no, don't thank me, I'm just 
trying to be supportive. ;-)

David

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Feb  3 16:25:22 2010
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 17:25:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
In-Reply-To: <007101caa50d$7915f340$6401a8c0@normoffice>
References: <007101caa50d$7915f340$6401a8c0@normoffice>
Message-ID: <4B6A05E2.50909@ktc.com>

  I did some reading about the twin cam engine, on LBC-sumpathetic sites 
I maight.  There's no doubt the engine had some problems, serious to not 
so serious.  To indict the entire car is a stretch, though.

   CR

On 2/3/2010 2:14 PM, Norm 2Bs wrote:
> VERY strange list.
>
> Yes, some real dogs on there.  And, some orphans.  But, some real good cars
> there too--like the MGA T/Cam.
>
> No accounting for some people's taste or logic.
>
> Norm
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Feb  3 16:31:54 2010
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 17:31:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel pump diaphram
In-Reply-To: <BD698689-A8DA-4688-BC4E-DE06D69E3DD9@gmail.com>
References: <SNT124-W8377003B4C97CFF228733B7560@phx.gbl>
	<BD698689-A8DA-4688-BC4E-DE06D69E3DD9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B6A076A.2070209@ktc.com>

  I agree on the diaphragm.  But as to the clutch remark, can't 
completely agree.  I've replaced many a disc but re-used the pressure 
plate depending on its condition.  Usually replaced the throughout 
bearing though. :-)

   CR

On 2/3/2010 12:32 PM, Paul Root wrote:
> I don't know whether you could or not.
>
> But to me, if I were rebuilding a fuel pump, I would replace the diaphram as a
> matter of course.
>
> Not replacing would be like pulling the engine to replace the clutch, and then
> changing the clutch disc but not the pressure plate.
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> On Feb 3, 2010, at 11:07 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
>
>    
>> Folks, I recently started a rebuild on the fuel pump for my '73 Midget.
>>      
> When
>    
>> I withdrew the diaphram, it sort of delaminated - split into two pieces, a
>> very pliable rubber diaphram and thinner layer that appears to be a clear
>> plastic coating that was on the non-fuel side of the diaphram.  My question
>> is, can I just cut away the clear plastic layer and rebuild with the old
>> diaphram, or do I need to get a whole new diaphram?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Mike Eldred
>>
>> '73 Midget
>>
>> '54 TF Midget
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
>> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> Subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>      
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
>
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From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Feb  3 17:41:29 2010
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 18:41:29 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
In-Reply-To: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
References: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <4B6A17B9.7040709@gmail.com>

David F. Darby wrote:
> What a shame. I guess everyone will be turning their Twinkies in now 
> since they won't be worth anything. As a special service, I'll be 
> collecting them for you at my central Missouri (US) location. I would 
> prefer you bring them yourself, but I suppose I could come and pick 
> them up if you covered my fuel costs. No, no, don't thank me, I'm just 
> trying to be supportive. ;-) 
I went down to Cooksville after I blew the engine in my MGA in 1965. They had a twin-cam engine on a bench there. I asked them to sell it to me for the racer. The guy said, "No, you'll just blow it up and it's rare now." He offered to sell me a rebuildable 850 Mini for $50 if I promised to race it. It cost me $250 to race-prepare it. Best move I ever made. 

-Rocky Frisco
--

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Feb  4 06:48:09 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 08:48:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel pump diaphram
In-Reply-To: <BD698689-A8DA-4688-BC4E-DE06D69E3DD9@gmail.com>
References: <SNT124-W8377003B4C97CFF228733B7560@phx.gbl>,
	<BD698689-A8DA-4688-BC4E-DE06D69E3DD9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W566E2272C4BA0B5A501EEB7550@phx.gbl>

Except that a pressure plate isn't nearly a third of the cost of a new engine
and transmission, and removing a fuel pump isn't nearly as involved as pulling
the engine and transmission.



The question I need to answer for myself is whether to bother rebuilding the
pump, or just buy a new one for a few more dollars.



My question to listers is, has any one else ever encountered this clear
lamination, and is it necessary to the proper and lasting function of the
diaphragm and the pump?



-Mike Eldred

'73 Midget
'54 TF Midget

> CC: mgs at autox.team.net
> From: ptrmgb at gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel pump diaphram
> Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:32:48 -0600
> To: redscirocco at hotmail.com
>
> I don't know whether you could or not.
>
> But to me, if I were rebuilding a fuel pump, I would replace the diaphram as
a matter of course.
>
> Not replacing would be like pulling the engine to replace the clutch, and
then changing the clutch disc but not the pressure plate.
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> On Feb 3, 2010, at 11:07 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
>
> > Folks, I recently started a rebuild on the fuel pump for my '73 Midget.
When
> > I withdrew the diaphram, it sort of delaminated - split into two pieces,
a
> > very pliable rubber diaphram and thinner layer that appears to be a clear
> > plastic coating that was on the non-fuel side of the diaphram. My
question
> > is, can I just cut away the clear plastic layer and rebuild with the old
> > diaphram, or do I need to get a whole new diaphram?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -Mike Eldred
> >
> > '73 Midget
> >
> > '54 TF Midget
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
> > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Suggested annual donation - $16.22
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> > Subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
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From stargazer1 at cox.net  Thu Feb  4 10:13:38 2010
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 09:13:38 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel pump diaphram
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W566E2272C4BA0B5A501EEB7550@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W8377003B4C97CFF228733B7560@phx.gbl>,
	<BD698689-A8DA-4688-BC4E-DE06D69E3DD9@gmail.com>
	<SNT124-W566E2272C4BA0B5A501EEB7550@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B6B0042.9060701@cox.net>

On 2/4/2010 5:48 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
> My question to listers is, has any one else ever encountered this clear
> lamination, and is it necessary to the proper and lasting function of the
> diaphragm and the pump?
>    
The pump from my '69 had that clear lamination. I'm thinking that it 
helps the neoprene diaphragm last longer.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose

From sales at justbrits.com  Thu Feb  4 18:45:45 2010
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 19:45:45 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
In-Reply-To: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
References: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <4B6B7849.7090309@justbrits.com>

<< I'll be collecting them for you at my central Missouri (US)
location. >>

As I am a bit more "central" I will be happy to assist
David [and lighten his load] by allowing anybody to
drop their Twinkie off here !!  I am just a MILE or 2
off TWO Interstates !!!

Sorry, but at this time David will have to be the one
picking-up cars as my "tow vehicle" has no hitch for a
trailer.

Ed

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb  4 20:29:38 2010
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 21:29:38 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
In-Reply-To: <4B6B7849.7090309@justbrits.com>
References: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<4B6B7849.7090309@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4B6B90A2.90906@sbcglobal.net>

Just what are you considering "central?"   The geographic center of the 
contiguous 48 states is somewhere in Kansas.  There are some differences 
of opinion on how to determine the center but they all point to 
somewhere in Kansas.  And since I'm in western Missouri, I'm closer than 
either of you.  But I don't want any MGAs - Twin Cam or otherwise. 

Charles Hill

Sales at " Just Brits " wrote:
> << I'll be collecting them for you at my central Missouri (US)
> location. >>
>
> As I am a bit more "central" I will be happy to assist
> David [and lighten his load] by allowing anybody to
> drop their Twinkie off here !!  I am just a MILE or 2
> off TWO Interstates !!!
>
> Sorry, but at this time David will have to be the one
> picking-up cars as my "tow vehicle" has no hitch for a
> trailer.
>
> Ed

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Thu Feb  4 22:46:18 2010
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 15:46:18 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
In-Reply-To: <4B6B90A2.90906@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<4B6B7849.7090309@justbrits.com> <4B6B90A2.90906@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <B1B256BD-7B64-4C65-90CF-207A2129D950@ghs.com.au>

Western Missouri, Center of the Universe..... went there once, but it  
was closed.

Have I missed something that sounds dreadfully unimportant here?

Murray Arundell
In a very much uncentral Australia

On 05/02/2010, at 1:29 PM, Charles Hill wrote:

> Just what are you considering "central?"   The geographic center of  
> the contiguous 48 states is somewhere in Kansas.  There are some  
> differences of opinion on how to determine the center but they all  
> point to somewhere in Kansas.  And since I'm in western Missouri,  
> I'm closer than either of you.  But I don't want any MGAs - Twin Cam  
> or otherwise.
> Charles Hill
>
> Sales at " Just Brits " wrote:
>> << I'll be collecting them for you at my central Missouri (US)
>> location. >>
>>
>> As I am a bit more "central" I will be happy to assist
>> David [and lighten his load] by allowing anybody to
>> drop their Twinkie off here !!  I am just a MILE or 2
>> off TWO Interstates !!!
>>
>> Sorry, but at this time David will have to be the one
>> picking-up cars as my "tow vehicle" has no hitch for a
>> trailer.
>>
>> Ed
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as arundell at ghs.com.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb  4 23:06:16 2010
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 00:06:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Twin Cam one of the "Worst 50"
In-Reply-To: <B1B256BD-7B64-4C65-90CF-207A2129D950@ghs.com.au>
References: <20100203171135.iz3vayslmt0gc4sg@webmail2.centurytel.net>
	<4B6B7849.7090309@justbrits.com> <4B6B90A2.90906@sbcglobal.net>
	<B1B256BD-7B64-4C65-90CF-207A2129D950@ghs.com.au>
Message-ID: <4B6BB558.6070107@sbcglobal.net>

Yes, you are missing something.  We are talking about Kansas, not 
Missouri.  Anything else?
Charles Hill

Murray Arundell wrote:
> Western Missouri, Center of the Universe..... went there once, but it 
> was closed.
>
> Have I missed something that sounds dreadfully unimportant here?
>
> Murray Arundell
> In a very much uncentral Australia

From don at napanet.net  Fri Feb  5 22:33:43 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 21:33:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] "Government-Created Collectibles"
Message-ID: <20100206054907.C09A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net>

Interesting article in the latest issue of Sports Car Market magazine 
entitled:  "Government-Created Collectibles."

http://www.sportscarmarket.com/Shifting-Gears/2010/March/index.html



Don Scott
Calistoga, CA

1962 MGA Mk II
1973 MGB GT (selling)
2001 Miata SE BRG
63-67 MGB (searching)

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 13:23:51 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 12:23:51 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] B layshaft circlips
Message-ID: <698B5C5F-A6F6-4218-A204-8E3042D94B9C@gmail.com>

I'm helping a buddy rebuild a non syncro b gearbox with the type  
1laygear bearings.
How do you remove the circlips inside the ends of the laygear?
I know I have done this before but it was too many years and too many  
beers ago.
Thanks
Rick


Sent from my iPhone

From Weberstevej at aol.com  Sat Feb  6 14:26:01 2010
From: Weberstevej at aol.com (Weberstevej at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 16:26:01 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGA
Message-ID: <2e6e1.371b5197.389f3869@aol.com>

I'm in the process of reassembling a 1959 MGA and have the following  
questions that I hope someone on the list can help me with.
 
1. Four or seven pound radiator cap? The engine has been totally rebuilt  
and I have installed a new radiator.
 
2. Where exactly is a single note horn mounted? Does it mount to the  body 
mount reinforcing bracket on the radiator duct panel using the  bolts that 
attaches body to frame? Or does it mount to the inner fender  panel or 
somewhere else on the radiator duct panel?
 
3. I'm looking to purchase an aluminum valve cover, but I'm uncertain as to 
 whether I should get one with the breather tube or without. Seems like 
most of  the MGA's I've seen with the aluminum covers do not have this 
breather. Is there  another way to vent the valve train, or is this just ignored?
 
Thanks for your help.
 
Steve

From philip.s.jones at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 20:42:48 2010
From: philip.s.jones at comcast.net (Phil Jones)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 19:42:48 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Webers/SK for sale
Message-ID: <D6EF9CA103BD47E2814F571F66BEE469@holly>

Hi friendly listers!  I have accumulated some carbs that Ive realized Im
not going to use.  I would like to offer them to the list first, before
putting them on Craigslist or Ebay.



Heres what I have:

2 Weber DCOE 40s on a Cannon 608 (or 809?) manifold.  Bought these used off
Ebay; they were advertised as being previously installed on a early 70s
Midget.  Obviously they were not previously on a Midget; Ive eyeballed them
against a Midget 1500 also, and the manifold doesnt seem to match up there
either.  I paid $350; love to get the same!

1 SK (Japanese equivalent of a DCOE 45  uses same jets and other tuning
components as Weber) on an MGB manifold.  This one I got from a person who
used to run it on his MGB.  He said it was great, but ended up scrapping the
car due to body issues.  Maybe $200 for this one?



Ive done nothing with these since acquiring them 5+ years ago; theyve been
resting comfortably in boxes in my garage.  If you are interested, please
let me know.  Id much rather they go to a list member.  Ive posted
pictures at http://home.comcast.net/~philip.s.jones/site/.  If there was
anything Id like to trade for, it would be a 1 > (inch and three quarter)
SU with filter, on a Titan manifold specifically for a Spridget.  I dont
know what normal sales processes are; but Id like to have cash or a
cleared check in hand prior to shipping.  Im in the Seattle area.



So theres my story, and Im sticking to it!



60 degrees and sunny today; didnt get a chance to drive an MG, but I did
play a soccer game in the sun.  I felt compelled to put on sunscreen  it
felt hot!



Phil

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Feb  6 22:29:43 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 23:29:43 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] B layshaft circlips
In-Reply-To: <698B5C5F-A6F6-4218-A204-8E3042D94B9C@gmail.com>
References: <698B5C5F-A6F6-4218-A204-8E3042D94B9C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <75575.22688.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/gt203a.htm

Look for the picture of the circlip 2/3 down the page.


At 12:23 PM 2/6/2010 -0800, Richard Ewald wrote:
>I'm helping a buddy rebuild a non syncro b gearbox with the type 1 
>laygear bearings.
>How do you remove the circlips inside the ends of the laygear?
>....

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 22:41:52 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:41:52 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] B layshaft circlips
In-Reply-To: <75575.22688.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <698B5C5F-A6F6-4218-A204-8E3042D94B9C@gmail.com>
	<75575.22688.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e11002062141q49e0b0a3u3dc0d63e3cbbabd7@mail.gmail.com>

I like it!

There is a much easier way to remove the circlips. The only reason for
removing the clips is to replace the bearings, so we presume the old
bearings will not be re-used. Place a small punch against the clip half way
around from the tips, and give it a whack with a hammer to break the clip.



On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 9:29 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:

> See here:
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/gt203a.htm
>
> Look for the picture of the circlip 2/3 down the page.
>
>
> At 12:23 PM 2/6/2010 -0800, Richard Ewald wrote:
>
>> I'm helping a buddy rebuild a non syncro b gearbox with the type 1 laygear
>> bearings.
>>
>> How do you remove the circlips inside the ends of the laygear?
>> ....

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Feb  6 22:50:41 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 23:50:41 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA
In-Reply-To: <2e6e1.371b5197.389f3869@aol.com>
References: <2e6e1.371b5197.389f3869@aol.com>
Message-ID: <871459.67244.qm@smtp108.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

1. Early pruduction 4 PSI pressure cap was superceded by the 7 PSI 
pressure cap.  That means earlier cars should be changed to 7 PSI 
whenever the cap needs to be replaced (or immediately if the 4 PSI 
cap causes problems).

2. Horn is mounted on a bracket on inboard side of the front frame 
extension below the body air pan.

3. Valve cover must be vented for proper crankcase ventillation.  All 
MGA and early MGB thru early 1964 had a 1/2" hose connection from 
front air cleaner to valve cover, and a 1/2" draft pipe on the front 
tappet cover.  If you buy a valve cover with no vent you need to add one.

When the cars got PCV (Positive Cranckcase Ventillation) with vacuum 
in the crankcase in mid 1964, they used an oil filler cap with 
restrictor vent and internal air filter.  When the cars got fuel 
vapor recovery for the 1970 model year they used a 1/2" hose from 
carbon cannister to valve cover with a restrictor orifice at entry to 
the valve cover.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 04:26 PM 2/6/2010 -0500, Weberstevej at aol.com wrote:
>.... 1959 MGA ....
>
>1. Four or seven pound radiator cap? ....
>
>2. Where exactly is a single note horn mounted? Does it mount to 
>the  body mount reinforcing bracket on the radiator duct panel using 
>the  bolts that attaches body to frame? Or does it mount to the 
>inner fender  panel or somewhere else on the radiator duct panel?
>
>3. I'm looking to purchase an aluminum valve cover, but I'm 
>uncertain as to whether I should get one with the breather tube or 
>without. Seems like most of  the MGA's I've seen with the aluminum 
>covers do not have this breather. Is there  another way to vent the 
>valve train, or is this just ignored?
>....

From jevans at mydb3.com  Mon Feb  8 10:35:56 2010
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 11:35:56 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] 14th Annual All British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble
Message-ID: <1590.75.57.142.226.1265650556.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>

The 14th annual British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble will be held on
February 28, 2010 from 8 AM to 3 PM at the DuPage County Fairgrounds in
Wheaton, IL.

Vendor preregistration forms were mailed several weeks ago to several
hundred vendors and British car club addresses:  if you are a vendor to
this market and you did not get a preregistration form, please contact me
off list for information; if you are a British car club officer and would
like information about club participation, please contact me off list.

Notification to almost 3,000 individuals on our mailing list took place
two weeks ago.  If you did not get one of our famous "purple postcards"
and would like to get on the mailing list, please contact me off list.

If you live in the Indianapolis, St Louis, Peoria, Rockford, Rock Island,
Chicago or Milwaukee areas your Sunday newspaper on January 31 carried a
notice in the "classic car" (or equivalent) classified ad section with
info on the British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble.

This event now attracts both vendors and shoppers from throughout the
midwest, with over 100 indoor vendor spaces and up to 1,000 shoppers in
recent years.  The location is in a suburban environment roughly 25 miles
west of Chicago.  Info can be had at http://www.britishcarswap.info or by
contacting me directly off list.

This year, the meet will include other European car and motorcycle
marques.  Several new clubs have taken booths and promoted the event to
their members, so the variety of  items available will be even greater
than usual.

The British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble is sponsored by the Chicagoland MG
Club and enjoys the support and participation of all the Chicago area
British car clubs.

FOR THE CHICAGOLAND MG CLUB
Jim Evans
630-858-8192

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Tue Feb  9 09:38:32 2010
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 08:38:32 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Turn signal puzzle
Message-ID: <4B718F88.8050101@cox.net>

I have an interesting puzzle with the turn signals on my '69 MGB GT.

    * The left signals flash once, then go dark.
    * The right signals go on and stay on.
    * The hazards don't work at all.

All the lamps are good and they light up, albeit incorrectly. This car 
has been sitting for about 10 years. One of the fuses was bad so I've 
already replaced all the fuses with new ones and cleaned the corrosion 
off the fuse holder contacts.

Any ideas? I suspect the hazard switch, and will dive into that circuit 
next.

Thanks,
Dave Ambrose

From tmcnam4510 at aol.com  Tue Feb  9 11:56:54 2010
From: tmcnam4510 at aol.com (TMcnam4510)
Date: Tue,  9 Feb 2010 13:56:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Turn signal puzzle
In-Reply-To: <4B718F88.8050101@cox.net>
References: <4B718F88.8050101@cox.net>
Message-ID: <812ef514.c475.400a.8c4a.96e2ddb9d8aa@aol.com>

The fuse box can have poor contacts where the tabs are riveted.  Its hard to see but shows high or intermittent resistance.   I would also clean all of the body grounding point I could find.  Hope this helps, Tom



In a message dated 02/09/10 13:21:25 Eastern Standard Time, stargazer1 at cox.net writes:
I have an interesting puzzle with the turn signals on my '69 MGB GT. 

   * The left signals flash once, then go dark. 
   * The right signals go on and stay on. 
   * The hazards don't work at all. 

All the lamps are good and they light up, albeit incorrectly. This car 
has been sitting for about 10 years. One of the fuses was bad so I've 
already replaced all the fuses with new ones and cleaned the corrosion 
off the fuse holder contacts. 

Any ideas? I suspect the hazard switch, and will dive into that circuit 
next. 

Thanks, 
Dave Ambrose 
_______________________________________________ 

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Suggested annual donation - $16.22 

Mgs at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

Subscribed as tmcnam4510 at aol.com 

http://www.team.net/archive 

From guinness at stclegal.com  Tue Feb  9 15:57:53 2010
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 16:57:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Turn signal puzzle
Message-ID: <4B71E871.8020803@stclegal.com>

I have an MGA 1600 with the pnuematic turn signal switch on the dash 
(Moss #162-400), and the barrel type flasher unit on the firewall (Moss 
# 141-750).  The pnuematic part of the turn signal switch never worked 
so I just hold it to the side until I finish my turn. Recently, holding 
the lever only initiates two  --  and only exactly two  -- blinks on the 
turn signal lamps.  The same thing happens with the front and back lamps 
and on either side.  Is this a turn signal switch problem, or a flasher 
unit problem?  Is there a diagnosis protocal to follow to isolate the 
problem?  I never repaired pnuematic turn signal switch because one of 
the screws holding the case of the switch together is stripped (the head 
is intact, but it and turns freely in the threads without moving out  
--  most curious).  Thank you.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Feb  9 16:44:03 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 17:44:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Turn signal puzzle
In-Reply-To: <4B71E871.8020803@stclegal.com>
References: <4B71E871.8020803@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <834749.24073.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Robert,

Repair switch here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ts101.htm

Test flasher unit here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et104.htm

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 04:57 PM 2/9/2010 -0600, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>I have an MGA 1600 with the pnuematic turn signal switch on the dash 
>(Moss #162-400), and the barrel type flasher unit on the firewall 
>(Moss # 141-750).  The pnuematic part of the turn signal switch 
>never worked so I just hold it to the side until I finish my turn. 
>Recently, holding the lever only initiates two  --  and only exactly 
>two  -- blinks on the turn signal lamps.  The same thing happens 
>with the front and back lamps and on either side.  Is this a turn 
>signal switch problem, or a flasher unit problem?  Is there a 
>diagnosis protocal to follow to isolate the problem?  I never 
>repaired pnuematic turn signal switch because one of the screws 
>holding the case of the switch together is stripped (the head is 
>intact, but it and turns freely in the threads without moving out

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Tue Feb  9 16:51:48 2010
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 18:51:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Turn signal puzzle
In-Reply-To: <4B71E871.8020803@stclegal.com>
References: <4B71E871.8020803@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <a06240801c797a538233e@[192.168.0.12]>

Bob, replace the flasher unit. seems to work , heat up,  and does not 
work again.

paul

>I have an MGA 1600 with the pnuematic turn signal switch on the dash 
>(Moss #162-400), and the barrel type flasher unit on the firewall 
>(Moss # 141-750).  The pnuematic part of the turn signal switch 
>never worked so I just hold it to the side until I finish my turn. 
>Recently, holding the lever only initiates two  --  and only exactly 
>two  -- blinks on the turn signal lamps.  The same thing happens 
>with the front and back lamps and on either side.  Is this a turn 
>signal switch problem, or a flasher unit problem?  Is there a 
>diagnosis protocal to follow to isolate the problem?  I never 
>repaired pnuematic turn signal switch because one of the screws 
>holding the case of the switch together is stripped (the head is 
>intact, but it and turns freely in the threads without moving out 
>--  most curious).  Thank you.
>--
>Robert Guinness
>__

-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Tue Feb  9 19:25:35 2010
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 20:25:35 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Turn signal puzzle
In-Reply-To: <834749.24073.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <4B71E871.8020803@stclegal.com>
	<834749.24073.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9723807EB3104E95951E6F196C7183B7@YOURF3E40984A8>

What would we do without Barney and his website? I'm votin' for him when he
decides to run for president.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barney Gaylord
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 5:44 PM
To: Robert J. Guinness; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Turn signal puzzle

Robert,

Repair switch here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ts101.htm

Test flasher unit here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et104.htm

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From sales at justbrits.com  Tue Feb  9 20:58:57 2010
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 21:58:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Turn signal puzzle
In-Reply-To: <9723807EB3104E95951E6F196C7183B7@YOURF3E40984A8>
References: <4B71E871.8020803@stclegal.com>
	<834749.24073.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<9723807EB3104E95951E6F196C7183B7@YOURF3E40984A8>
Message-ID: <4B722F01.2010905@justbrits.com>

David, I know Barney, and ......

<< I'm votin' for him when he decides to run for president. >>

he is NOT that stupid >VBEG> !!!!!

That said, your heart IS in the right place !!!   LOL

Ed

From palte at gmx.net  Tue Feb  9 22:52:43 2010
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 06:52:43 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Turn signal puzzle
In-Reply-To: <4B718F88.8050101@cox.net>
References: <4B718F88.8050101@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20100210055243.14570@gmx.net>

I would suspect the hazard switch first.
Any aftermarket add-ons have a 
deserved reputation for being less reliable
than anything the car manufacturer uses.

Just my  $.02 worth

Bert




-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 08:38:32 -0800
> Von: David Ambrose <stargazer1 at cox.net>
> An: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Betreff: [Mgs] Turn signal puzzle

> I have an interesting puzzle with the turn signals on my '69 MGB GT.
> 
>     * The left signals flash once, then go dark.
>     * The right signals go on and stay on.
>     * The hazards don't work at all.
> 
> All the lamps are good and they light up, albeit incorrectly. This car 
> has been sitting for about 10 years. One of the fuses was bad so I've 
> already replaced all the fuses with new ones and cleaned the corrosion 
> off the fuse holder contacts.
> 
> Any ideas? I suspect the hazard switch, and will dive into that circuit 
> next.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dave Ambrose
> 
-- 
Jetzt kostenlos herunterladen: Internet Explorer 8 und Mozilla Firefox 3.5 -
sicherer, schneller und einfacher! http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/atbrowser

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Wed Feb 10 10:50:36 2010
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 12:50:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement fuses for your Lucas electrics...
Message-ID: <ACA12F0E-8346-4BE8-88CF-B4217D7BC39D@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
Here's a site to bookmark for those pesky Lucas fuse references. Also,  
Harness smoke tips.
Dave Houser

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Wed Feb 10 12:28:11 2010
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 14:28:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Lucas reference
Message-ID: <328F6584-9E77-42C5-97E9-972B4B089B76@tampabay.rr.com>

OOOPs.
Sorry, Forgot to attach the site...

http://www.mez.co.uk/lucas.html
Dave Houser

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Wed Feb 10 12:38:28 2010
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 14:38:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement fuses for your Lucas electrics...
References: <ACA12F0E-8346-4BE8-88CF-B4217D7BC39D@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <379D1705CB724FA7ABCDBA71AD22F1DA@frankdcczr6l6k>

Dave: I didn't find the site you reference in your posting. Am I missing 
something?
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: "MGList List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement fuses for your Lucas electrics...


> Listers,
> Here's a site to bookmark for those pesky Lucas fuse references. Also, 
> Harness smoke tips.
> Dave Houser
> _______________________________________________

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Feb 11 16:15:37 2010
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:15:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MGB for sale
Message-ID: <0417F7F2A84644B2937607CECB106787@EricJRussellPC>

I don't drive our MGB enough. And I could use a cash stimulus for my MGA. 
So, I am considering selling our 1978 MGB.

It is a good driver but the paint is faded. The interior is excellent, the 
engine was rebuilt with dual SU's installed. New clutch & brakes (rebuilt 
MC's, rebuilt calipers, & clutch slave, replaced rear wheel cylinders, new 
front pads, new flex hoses, etc). The top needs replacing (a seam is split 
along the top of the zip out rear window) and the tires are old (tread is 
good but I haven't driven it enough to wear 'em out).

Pictures here: http://rides.webshots.com/album/80373254Gnkpzq

I'm not sure how much money to ask. If someone offered me 10 grand I'd take 
that! For $5,000 I'd install a new top and be very happy. If someone offered 
me $4,000 'as-is' I'd think about it...

Pass the word if you hear of anyone looking for a nice, well sorted MGB.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell 

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Fri Feb 12 06:55:42 2010
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:55:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Fuses
Message-ID: <48720d21002120555n4cb25a39v95c50553ccdd6610@mail.gmail.com>

I've added five auxiliary items to my BGT, and plan to eliminate the five
separate wires from the starter solenoid by adding a modern fuse block.

However, I know that the cars are under fused. What is presently fused, and
what do you think I should I should fuse that isn't now fused? The
headlights are already taken care of.

Thanks,

Jack

From maine2me at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 12 16:15:47 2010
From: maine2me at yahoo.com (Dan Dwelley)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 15:15:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA turn signal switch rebuild
Message-ID: <872357.94714.qm@web114114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello all...and Barney!

I decided to go through my turn signal switches and rebuild what I can and sort what can be used for spare parts.

I pulled one apart as per Barneys instructions and all looked fine but the position of the switch when the piston is in the raised position. Am I wrong to assume (I know...bad word) that neither contact should be closed when in the raised position? I mean...to me, it would stand to reason that a closed contact would leave the turn signal on!
I'm guessing this may have been some aftermarket reproduction that was made on a Friday or a Monday....

The switch from my '56 is cracked so I figured maybe I could rob some parts from that to fix the other...WRONG!! It looks VERY different from the switch Barney shows on his website (http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/tssw_2.htm ). The quality is VERY good but unfortunately cannot be used with the other switch.

Any thoughts? 

Thanks!
Dan

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Feb 12 16:43:07 2010
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 17:43:07 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA turn signal switch rebuild
In-Reply-To: <872357.94714.qm@web114114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <872357.94714.qm@web114114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <578783.87551.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dan,

Not sure what "raised position" means, as the piston moves from front 
to back in a horizontal direction when switch is monted in the 
dash.  In any case, the piston is only for time delay and has no 
electrical contacts. The electrical contacts are all in the front, 
immediately inside the front cover.  Yes, both contacts should be 
open with the switch is at rest.  Properly set the time delay should 
be about 20 seconds.  Switch contacts should stay closed during that 
time.  It is return motion of the piston that pushes the switch back 
to rest position (off) as it times out.

As to that odd second switch, photos please.

Barney


At 03:15 PM 2/12/2010 -0800, Dan Dwelley wrote:
>....
>I decided to go through my turn signal switches ....
>
>I pulled one apart .... all looked fine but the position of the 
>switch when the piston is in the raised position. Am I wrong to 
>assume (I know...bad word) that neither contact should be closed 
>when in the raised position? ....
>I'm guessing this may have been some aftermarket reproduction that 
>was made on a Friday or a Monday....
>
>The switch from my '56 is cracked so I figured maybe I could rob 
>some parts from that to fix the other...WRONG!! It looks VERY 
>different from the switch Barney shows on his website 
>(http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/tssw_2.htm ). The quality is 
>VERY good but unfortunately cannot be used with the other switch.
>....

From maine2me at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 12 17:13:30 2010
From: maine2me at yahoo.com (Dan Dwelley)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 16:13:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA turn signal switch rebuild
In-Reply-To: <578783.87551.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <872357.94714.qm@web114114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<578783.87551.qm@smtp105.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <849993.6106.qm@web114113.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Barney,

Raised position is based on unit sitting on the table. But yes...to
the rest position is what I mean. Teh piston rotates the t-bar back to the
open contacts position...at least that's what it should do. This one, will
rotate to the point where the left contact is closed when the piston is in the
rest position.
Does the nylon piece slide on and off the octagonal shaft? If
so, maybe I could take it off and reposition it?

Thanks!!
Dan



-----
Original Message ----
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
To: Dan
Dwelley <maine2me at yahoo.com>; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, February 12, 2010
6:43:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA turn signal switch rebuild

Dan,

Not sure
what "raised position" means, as the piston moves from front to back in a
horizontal direction when switch is monted in the dash.  In any case, the
piston is only for time delay and has no electrical contacts. The electrical
contacts are all in the front, immediately inside the front cover.  Yes, both
contacts should be open with the switch is at rest.  Properly set the time
delay should be about 20 seconds.  Switch contacts should stay closed during
that time.  It is return motion of the piston that pushes the switch back to
rest position (off) as it times out.

As to that odd second switch, photos
please.

Barney


At 03:15 PM 2/12/2010 -0800, Dan Dwelley wrote:
> ....
> I
decided to go through my turn signal switches ....
> 
> I pulled one apart
.... all looked fine but the position of the switch when the piston is in the
raised position. Am I wrong to assume (I know...bad word) that neither contact
should be closed when in the raised position? ....
> I'm guessing this may
have been some aftermarket reproduction that was made on a Friday or a
Monday....
> 
> The switch from my '56 is cracked so I figured maybe I could
rob some parts from that to fix the other...WRONG!! It looks VERY different
from the switch Barney shows on his website
(http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/tssw_2.htm ). The quality is VERY good but
unfortunately cannot be used with the other switch.
> ....

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 13 10:15:45 2010
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:15:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Happy Birthday!
Message-ID: <427481.46927.qm@web112117.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Today is my MGA's 52nd birthday.  On February 13, 1958 it rolled
off the line at Abingdon, destined for the US.  I wish I could go
for a birthday drive, but we're having our warmest winter on record
here in western North America (including the snowless Olympic games
in Vancouver BC) and it's just too rainy.  Happy birthday, MG!

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 14 10:16:49 2010
From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (MARK SHERMAN)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:16:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Seatbelts for sale
Message-ID: <c4eb3f791002140916g50beebc7s80b1ac5b27d1a2f0@mail.gmail.com>

I have a pair of vintage-style latch-and-link seatbelts (3" wide) for sale.

I removed them from my TD.



The date code has expired so I cannot use them for vintage racing.  They are

in otherwise excellent condition.  You will need to purchase eyebolt type

hardware for mounting.



Moss sells these for about $80 each.  I will take $75 for the pair.



They will look appropriate in any MG and I will throw in patina at

no extra charge.



If you are interested, let me know and I can email you a photograph.


Mark Sherman

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 14 15:03:44 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:03:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] spot lights
In-Reply-To: <20100203171707.AB77124DDBF@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20100203171707.AB77124DDBF@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <89CD5B3680774FAD9A648BEF86D178D3@ranteer.local>

hi, all.  seems I just broke the top clip where the dual spots attach to 
their stand.

plus the two lights don't stay put very well.

I'm thinking of replacing them.  This setup (two spots on an adjustable 
stand) wasn't very expensive, but I guess I don't really want to go the 
horrible freight route again - I'd like to get a really good set, have them 
work, last, and not start flopping around on me.

anyone have a recommendation? 

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Sun Feb 14 16:26:08 2010
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 18:26:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Article You MIght Find Interesting
Message-ID: <9AFA2050A6AD47018DB2564ABB4C790C@frankdcczr6l6k>

Read this in the Reno Gazette Journal and it struck home!
Frank Krajewski
http://www.rgj.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/201002130600/COL31/2130326

From don at napanet.net  Tue Feb 16 11:05:22 2010
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 10:05:22 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] not happy w/ Victoria British
In-Reply-To: <9AFA2050A6AD47018DB2564ABB4C790C@frankdcczr6l6k>
References: <9AFA2050A6AD47018DB2564ABB4C790C@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <20100216182251.E7A1F24DB7F@mail.napanet.net>

>I just had a rather negative experience with VB.  I ordered a fuel 
>pump rebuilding kit for my MGA, and I was very clear with the 
>order-taker guy on what I needed.  I was concerned that there could 
>be an issue as there are two types of fuel pumps, and that the 
>diaphragm is different between them.  I told him exactly what I 
>needed and told him that there were two types so as to avoid a 
>problem.  He insisted that the kit was the correct one for my 
>application.  I just got it UPS to me and it is the wrong 
>one.  Also, the little rebuild kit could have been shipped in a box 
>about 1/10 the size of the one they used.  I called VB and explained 
>the wrong part and was told I would be called by a customer rep, but 
>so far, no call.  When I have dealt with Scarborough Faire for 
>parts, they (Cecilia) has been great with her knowledge and 
>helpfullness.  Moss is ok too.
>Don Scott
  Calistoga CA
  1962 MGA Mk II
1991 Miata BRG
1973 MGB GT (selling)
1963-65 MGB (seeking)

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Feb 16 11:09:40 2010
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 13:09:40 EST
Subject: [Mgs] not happy w/ Victoria British
Message-ID: <d744.696d8f3.38ac3964@aol.com>

That is typical, in my experience. 
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 2/16/2010 10:06:24 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
don at napanet.net writes:

>I  just had a rather negative experience with VB.  I ordered a fuel  
>pump rebuilding kit for my MGA, and I was very clear with the  
>order-taker guy on what I needed.  I was concerned that there  could 
>be an issue as there are two types of fuel pumps, and that the  
>diaphragm is different between them.  I told him exactly what I  
>needed and told him that there were two types so as to avoid a  
>problem.  He insisted that the kit was the correct one for my  
>application.  I just got it UPS to me and it is the wrong  
>one.  

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 16 11:23:33 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 13:23:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] not happy w/ Victoria British
In-Reply-To: <20100216182251.E7A1F24DB7F@mail.napanet.net>
References: <9AFA2050A6AD47018DB2564ABB4C790C@frankdcczr6l6k>,
	<20100216182251.E7A1F24DB7F@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W2CB906F40D1CB7749225EB7490@phx.gbl>

Their customer service sucks.  I just spent over $1k with them and, when I
emailed to see if I could add another $200 to the existing unshipped order, I
got no answer.  When I finally called, they told me it was not possible to add
to an existing order.  I tracked down every email they have, including company
owner Janet Long, and fired off a note expressing my disappointment - haven't
heard a peep from anyone there.



So far, I have no issues with the quality of their merchandise or their
prices.  But customer service counts for something.  I'll be more careful
where I spend my money in the future, and this isn't my first LBC and it won't
be my last.



-Mike Eldred

'54 MG TF

'73 Midget

> Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 10:05:22 -0800
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> From: don at napanet.net
> Subject: [Mgs] not happy w/ Victoria British
>
> >I just had a rather negative experience with VB. I ordered a fuel
> >pump rebuilding kit for my MGA, and I was very clear with the
> >order-taker guy on what I needed. I was concerned that there could
> >be an issue as there are two types of fuel pumps, and that the
> >diaphragm is different between them. I told him exactly what I
> >needed and told him that there were two types so as to avoid a
> >problem. He insisted that the kit was the correct one for my
> >application. I just got it UPS to me and it is the wrong
> >one. Also, the little rebuild kit could have been shipped in a box
> >about 1/10 the size of the one they used. I called VB and explained
> >the wrong part and was told I would be called by a customer rep, but
> >so far, no call. When I have dealt with Scarborough Faire for
> >parts, they (Cecilia) has been great with her knowledge and
> >helpfullness. Moss is ok too.
> >Don Scott
> Calistoga CA
> 1962 MGA Mk II
> 1991 Miata BRG
> 1973 MGB GT (selling)
> 1963-65 MGB (seeking)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as redscirocco at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Feb 16 11:34:05 2010
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 13:34:05 EST
Subject: [Mgs] not happy w/ Victoria British
Message-ID: <e59a.511b3925.38ac3f1d@aol.com>

I will buy from them only if desperate and no one else has the part. They  
don't know anything about the cars and swear at you that they have the right 
 thing. They only ship by the most expensive method to Canada and are not 
willing  to refund shipping when it is clearly their fault for sending the 
wrong  part.
 
I went through this with MGC brake adjusters - "Oh yes, we have the right  
part, we went and looked at it on the shelf and the numbers match".  Yeah,  
well that didn't console me a lot when they shipped the wrong side and 
turned  out to be out of the one I needed.
 
They refuse to ship via USPS, the cheapest and surest method.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 2/16/2010 10:23:52 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
redscirocco at hotmail.com writes:

But  customer service counts for something.  I'll be more careful
where I  spend my money in the future, and this isn't my first LBC and it 
won't
be  my last.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Feb 16 11:36:12 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 12:36:12 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] not happy w/ Victoria British
In-Reply-To: <20100216182251.E7A1F24DB7F@mail.napanet.net>
References: <9AFA2050A6AD47018DB2564ABB4C790C@frankdcczr6l6k>
	<20100216182251.E7A1F24DB7F@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <9FBA248E-0516-4D21-98C4-4114F86B61D8@gmail.com>

Personally, I only order from VB when no one else has it. It seems there is
always a problem with an order from them.


On Feb 16, 2010, at 12:05 PM, don wrote:

>> I just had a rather negative experience with VB.  I ordered a fuel pump
rebuilding kit for my MGA, and I was very clear with the order-taker guy on
what I needed.  I was concerned that there could be an issue as there are two
types of fuel pumps, and that the diaphragm is different between them.  I told
him exactly what I needed and told him that there were two types so as to
avoid a problem.  He insisted that the kit was the correct one for my
application.  I just got it UPS to me and it is the wrong one.  Also, the
little rebuild kit could have been shipped in a box about 1/10 the size of the
one they used.  I called VB and explained the wrong part and was told I would
be called by a customer rep, but so far, no call.  When I have dealt with
Scarborough Faire for parts, they (Cecilia) has been great with her knowledge
and helpfullness.  Moss is ok too.
>> Don Scott

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Feb 16 11:53:08 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 11:53:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] not happy w/ Victoria British
In-Reply-To: <e59a.511b3925.38ac3f1d@aol.com>
References: <e59a.511b3925.38ac3f1d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B7AE994.202@bradakis.com>

Interesting.  The current topic on the Triumphs list is ranting
about one of the major suppliers as well.  Must be a Fat Tuesday
thing or something.

mjb.

From trijagparts at mindspring.com  Tue Feb 16 20:20:14 2010
From: trijagparts at mindspring.com (Brad Wilson)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:20:14 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGF production date
Message-ID: <20100217032035.6527E18764C@autox.team.net>

Hi:

Can anyone in the UK tell me where to find the production date on an 
MGF, i.e. the day & month the car actually left the assembly line, as 
opposed to when it was registered?

Regards,

Brad

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Wed Feb 17 02:01:32 2010
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 09:01:32 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGF production date
In-Reply-To: <20100217032035.6527E18764C@autox.team.net>
References: <20100217032035.6527E18764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9f2527521002170101l4af6e07p494594c9a963fc6d@mail.gmail.com>

The only people likely to have that info are MG themselves; I doubt the DVLA
(govt. vehicle licensing) would have it.  Whether those records are still
around and accessible after all the sales and bankruptcies, who knows?  The
British arm of the company is now officially called "MG Motor" (yes,
singular, I know it would sound better plural!), and they presumably have a
customer service department accessible over the internet...

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

On 17 February 2010 03:20, Brad Wilson <trijagparts at mindspring.com> wrote:

> Hi:
>
> Can anyone in the UK tell me where to find the production date on an MGF,
> i.e. the day & month the car actually left the assembly line, as opposed to
> when it was registered?
>
> Regards,
>
> Brad

From jevans at mydb3.com  Thu Feb 18 18:14:47 2010
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 19:14:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] 14th Annual British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble
Message-ID: <3633.75.57.142.226.1266542087.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>

The 14th annual All British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble will be held on
February 28, 2010 at the DuPage County Fairgrounds in Wheaton, Illinois.

This is an indoor event with approximately 100 vendor spaces in two
buildings.  Hours are 8 AM to 3 PM with a $5 admission fee and free
parking.  The suburban location is about 25 miles due west of Chicago,
with easy access from the Chicago area Interstate road system.

Hosted by the Chicagoland MG Club, this event has the enthusiastic support
of all the major British Car clubs in the Chicago area; most of these
clubs have taken spaces for club use and have promoted the event to their
members resulting in a strong turnout of vendors and buyers of parts and
accessories for all types of British cars.

Publicity has included a direct mailing to over 3,000 Chicago/midwest area
owners of British cars and motorcycles, as well as advertising in major
metropolitan newspapers in Chicago, Indianapolis, St Louis, Peoria, Quad
Cities,Rockford and Milwaukee.  This event has been advertised in Auto
Restorer,Skinned Knuckles, Old Cars Weekly and other enthusiast
publications as well as through postings on enthusiast internet sites; it
now attracts the participation of British Car enthusiasts from throughout
the midwest with shoppers coming from all surrounding states.  A list of
local hotels is available upon request.

This year, enthusiasts for other European cars and motorcycles are also
welcomed and encouraged to attend.

Vendors already booked in include such well known suppliers to the British
Car hobby as:  Triple-C, Little British Car Company, TSI, University
Motors, Riverside Motors, author Burt Levy and more.

Any viewer of this message who has access to other club email lists is
encouraged to send it on.

Any questions - email me off list or call me at 630-858-8192 or see the
website at http://www.britishcarswap.info

Mapquest to 2015 West Manchester Road, Wheaton, Illinois 60187.

Hope to see your there!

FOR THE CHICAGOLAND MG CLUB
Jim Evans

From eugeneb at nni.com  Sat Feb 20 15:18:04 2010
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 17:18:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] How hot should my MG-B ?
Message-ID: <web-266825994@admin.nni.com>

All,

   The (relatively) mild weather here in the north east has
me starting to think about getting the car ready for the
spring.

    Late last summer and in to the fall, I was chasing an
overheating problem that was either caused by or did cause
a crack in the head around the #2 spark plug.  

    In any event, the new head is on along with new water
pump, hoses, and  160 degree thermostat.  The radiator
remained as it seemed to be flowing OK.

    My question to the group is:  how hot should my 1980
MGB  be ?  During a cool day (40's), I ran the car until it
warmed up and the fan started to cycle.   I received one of
the Moss IR hand held thermometers for Christmas, and used
it to measured the temp of the top of the radiator. The
radiator was 200 degrees +/- near where the water enters.
  Is this normal with a 160 degree thermostat ?  

Gene 

80 B

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
http://www.nni.com/

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sat Feb 20 15:55:57 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 15:55:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] How hot should my MG-B ?
In-Reply-To: <web-266825994@admin.nni.com>
References: <web-266825994@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE183C@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I would think that's normal. A 160 degree thermostat just means that it
will open at 160, but your cooling system will reach an equilibrium at a
point warmer than that (unless it is really cold out). Older MGs had an
actual temperature gauge of which my 67 BGT with 190 degree thermostat
typically runs about 200 degrees or at least that is how I remember it.
It has been buried under a snow drift since sometime in November. But
the snow is slowly melting so I may dig it out in the next few weeks if
we don't get anymore snow.

David Councill
64 B restoration
67 BGT snowed under
72 B also under snow

---Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Eugene Balinski
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 3:18 PM
To: mgs at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Mgs] How hot should my MG-B ?

All,

   The (relatively) mild weather here in the north east has
me starting to think about getting the car ready for the
spring.

    Late last summer and in to the fall, I was chasing an
overheating problem that was either caused by or did cause
a crack in the head around the #2 spark plug.

    In any event, the new head is on along with new water
pump, hoses, and  160 degree thermostat.  The radiator
remained as it seemed to be flowing OK.

    My question to the group is:  how hot should my 1980
MGB  be ?  During a cool day (40's), I ran the car until it
warmed up and the fan started to cycle.   I received one of
the Moss IR hand held thermometers for Christmas, and used
it to measured the temp of the top of the radiator. The
radiator was 200 degrees +/- near where the water enters.
  Is this normal with a 160 degree thermostat ?

Gene

80 B

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Feb 20 18:55:05 2010
From: mgbob at juno.com (MGBOB)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 20:55:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] How hot should my MG-B ?
Message-ID: <20100220.175659.3873.285243@mailpop03.vgs.untd.com>

Gene,
   It seems hot to me, especially at 40 degree temps.  
   I have one of the IR thermometers also; my readings in 60 degree temps
were 185F at the radiator of my '72 MGB amd 70C of my TD. I forget what
the F equivalent of 70 is, but it's a 70 degree 'stat.  These were test
drives of five miles or so, not hard driving.  Both of these readings
with the IR thermometer were consistent with previous readings done with
liquid thermometer in the radiator tank. 190 on the MGB gauge is directly
on the right leg of  N, and 70 degrees of the IR, liquid thermometer and
ether-bulb temp gauge all agreed. 
  On hot days the rad temp will be higher. The 'stat opens at its rated
temp, give or take a few degrees, but 200 seems excessive to me if all
you did for the test was warm it in  the driveway or drive gently around
town.  
   Do you know if the antifreeze has been changed every few years?  The
AF chemistry does not wear out but corrosion inhibiters do weaken, and
ofttimes it is sediment from corrosion that blocks passages.  
Bob
 
On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 17:18:04 -0500 "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
writes:
> All,
> 
>    The (relatively) mild weather here in the north east has
> me starting to think about getting the car ready for the
> spring.
> 
>     Late last summer and in to the fall, I was chasing an
> overheating problem that was either caused by or did cause
> a crack in the head around the #2 spark plug.  
> 
>     In any event, the new head is on along with new water
> pump, hoses, and  160 degree thermostat.  The radiator
> remained as it seemed to be flowing OK.
> 
>     My question to the group is:  how hot should my 1980
> MGB  be ?  During a cool day (40's), I ran the car until it
> warmed up and the fan started to cycle.   I received one of
> the Moss IR hand held thermometers for Christmas, and used
> it to measured the temp of the top of the radiator. The
> radiator was 200 degrees +/- near where the water enters.
>   Is this normal with a 160 degree thermostat ?  
> 
> Gene 
> 
> 80 B
> 
____________________________________________________________
Weight Loss Program
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 21 12:59:19 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:59:19 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] How hot should my MG-B ?
In-Reply-To: <20100220.175659.3873.285243@mailpop03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <C7A6D097.27395%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I guess it's time to repeat my mantra: a 160 degree thermostat is silly. The
efficient, natural operating temperature of the engine is around 190
degrees. Using a lower temperature thermostat merely delays the engine
reaching operating temperature, to the detriment of just about everything.
And if the ambient temperature is low enough, it prevents the engine from
reaching operating temperature at all. A further effect is that the heater
output is even more feeble than usual, just when you would appreciate some
warmth.

I repeat -- a lower-temperature-rated thermostat does NOT prevent the engine
from "overheating", under any circumstances. Once the thermostat is wide
open, it has no effect; and if the engine has some problem which is going to
make it overheat, it will do so regardless.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 2/20/10 5:55 PM, MGBOB at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

> Gene,
>    It seems hot to me, especially at 40 degree temps.
>    I have one of the IR thermometers also; my readings in 60 degree temps
> were 185F at the radiator of my '72 MGB amd 70C of my TD. I forget what
> the F equivalent of 70 is, but it's a 70 degree 'stat.  These were test
> drives of five miles or so, not hard driving.  Both of these readings
> with the IR thermometer were consistent with previous readings done with
> liquid thermometer in the radiator tank. 190 on the MGB gauge is directly
> on the right leg of  N, and 70 degrees of the IR, liquid thermometer and
> ether-bulb temp gauge all agreed.
>   On hot days the rad temp will be higher. The 'stat opens at its rated
> temp, give or take a few degrees, but 200 seems excessive to me if all
> you did for the test was warm it in  the driveway or drive gently around
> town.  
>    Do you know if the antifreeze has been changed every few years?  The
> AF chemistry does not wear out but corrosion inhibiters do weaken, and
> ofttimes it is sediment from corrosion that blocks passages.
> Bob
>  
> On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 17:18:04 -0500 "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
> writes:
>> All,
>> 
>>    The (relatively) mild weather here in the north east has
>> me starting to think about getting the car ready for the
>> spring.
>> 
>>     Late last summer and in to the fall, I was chasing an
>> overheating problem that was either caused by or did cause
>> a crack in the head around the #2 spark plug.
>> 
>>     In any event, the new head is on along with new water
>> pump, hoses, and  160 degree thermostat.  The radiator
>> remained as it seemed to be flowing OK.
>> 
>>     My question to the group is:  how hot should my 1980
>> MGB  be ?  During a cool day (40's), I ran the car until it
>> warmed up and the fan started to cycle.   I received one of
>> the Moss IR hand held thermometers for Christmas, and used
>> it to measured the temp of the top of the radiator. The
>> radiator was 200 degrees +/- near where the water enters.
>>   Is this normal with a 160 degree thermostat ?
>> 
>> Gene 
>> 
>> 80 B

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 21 19:03:41 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:03:41 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGC for sale in KY
Message-ID: <8C4CB9A09A0A448EBF5508D98C55439F@ranteer.local>

this showed up on the triumph list for some strange reason.  please do not 
contact me; I know nothing about it.

contact Steve Thornton:   sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com


Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 1:34 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: "John Swauger" <jswauger at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] MGC fir sale in KY

> All-
>
>
>
> Below is an email I received yesterday about a car that is local and that 
> I
> have know about for many years. Keith Kubic, the owner, is a well known
> carburetor guy here in Bowling Green and has had this car for probably 30
> years. Unfortunately, for the last several years the car sat outside in 
> the
> weather and the result of that situation is evident in the photos.
>
> However, if anyone on this list has an interest I am certainly willing to 
> help
> with coordinating contact, additional photos or short term storage if it
> helps.
>
> I know it is not a TR, but it was MG's attempt to add hp to run with the
> throaty and robust TR6!
>
>
> Steve Thornton
> Bowling Green, KY
>
> 1968 Triumph TR 250
> 1963 Jaguar Mk II RHD
> 2000 Indian Chief
> 2007 HD Heritage Springer
> 1963 HD Topper
>
> You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net
>
>
>
> Hi gang,MG guru Keith Kubic is finally letting go of his MGC which has
> been parked behind his house since the 70's when a college kid sold it to
> Keith because it needed a starter. The starter was never acquired and the 
> car
> sat. Now it needs a complete rebuild. Last title 1979. Everything is there 
> but
> the starter. All original smog control is still there. Call him ASAP if
> interested because I will be posting it on Craigslist this week, then Ebay 
> if
> no action there. I am posting for Keith because he has no PC. It was a
> struggle trying to value this car due to the rarity and condition. He 
> wanted
> $4k but I think $2,500 is right on target for a quick
> sale. http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/apps/photos/ (Let me know if link 
> does
> not open for you) Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 07:22:59 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:22:59 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
Message-ID: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>

My daily driver, '99 Subaru OBS, popped the check engine light briefly this
morning just before it was fully warm. It had been stumbling on acceleration a
bit. It cleared itself with in 30 seconds.

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Tue Feb 23 08:03:35 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:03:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Is there a question here? I think you are asking about ODBII readers.
Although limited in what codes they can read, I find them to be a
valuable tool if you own a newer car and they are inexpensive. I bought
a Harbor Freight middle of the line reader (about $65 USD) when my 2001
Land Rover had a check engine light. I had to look the code up on the
Internet and it translated to a "massive EGR leak" which further
translated to "loose gas cap". Since then, I have used it on two other
cars to reset the light and retrieve the codes. The code may still be in
your car's computer which means the reader may tell you the problem
(maybe oxygen sensor?).

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul Root
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:23 AM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers

My daily driver, '99 Subaru OBS, popped the check engine light briefly
this
morning just before it was fully warm. It had been stumbling on
acceleration a
bit. It cleared itself with in 30 seconds.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 08:40:36 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 09:40:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <EC1978DD-B66C-4E12-B348-1F29D7747970@gmail.com>

Yeah, the question was, what features do I want in a reader?

I think I like the idea of the reader telling me what the code means, and that
that ability is updatable via the internet.

Also, there is a new thing called CAM (Controller Area Network) that sounds
like it could be good for future cars.

Thanks,
Paul.

On Feb 23, 2010, at 9:03 AM, Councill, David wrote:

> Is there a question here? I think you are asking about ODBII readers.
> Although limited in what codes they can read, I find them to be a
> valuable tool if you own a newer car and they are inexpensive. I bought
> a Harbor Freight middle of the line reader (about $65 USD) when my 2001
> Land Rover had a check engine light. I had to look the code up on the
> Internet and it translated to a "massive EGR leak" which further
> translated to "loose gas cap". Since then, I have used it on two other
> cars to reset the light and retrieve the codes. The code may still be in
> your car's computer which means the reader may tell you the problem
> (maybe oxygen sensor?).
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Paul Root
> Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:23 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
>
> My daily driver, '99 Subaru OBS, popped the check engine light briefly
> this
> morning just before it was fully warm. It had been stumbling on
> acceleration a
> bit. It cleared itself with in 30 seconds.

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Tue Feb 23 09:11:44 2010
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:11:44 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <EC1978DD-B66C-4E12-B348-1F29D7747970@gmail.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<EC1978DD-B66C-4E12-B348-1F29D7747970@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <37BE6EB0-EDCB-406A-A688-B7A863F04E20@sonic.net>

On Feb 23, 2010, at 7:40 AM, Paul Root wrote:

> Yeah, the question was, what features do I want in a reader?

Paul. I have used a "ScanGauge II" for a couple of years. It lives in my
Sprinter van now but I have used it in my BMW, VW and Econoline before. It, of
course, reads and can clear some OBD codes and has paid for itself a couple of
times with that feature. However, I currently use it to monitor my Sprinter's
turbo diesel. It has amazing features and I consider it irreplaceable.

Nothing useful is going to tell you what the code is directly. Many codes are
specific not only to a manufacturer but sometimes to a particular model (as I
discovered with my VW). It's pretty east to look them up.

--
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Tue Feb 23 09:31:41 2010
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:31:41 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <37BE6EB0-EDCB-406A-A688-B7A863F04E20@sonic.net>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><EC1978DD-B66C-4E12-B348-1F29D7747970@gmail.com>
	<37BE6EB0-EDCB-406A-A688-B7A863F04E20@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <55F2F803F46B4D09BC64BFFCD95D713B@TomVistaPC>

Paul, have a look at the following link. These are the instructions for the 
Sealey VS8700 which gives you the codes & descriptions all in one.

http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/images_products/PDF/Instructions/VS8700.pdf

Kindest Regards

Tom
AH3000 MKIII BJ8
Austin Mini Park Lane
MGA 1600

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rod Williams" <PRNDL at sonic.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers


> On Feb 23, 2010, at 7:40 AM, Paul Root wrote:
>
>> Yeah, the question was, what features do I want in a reader?
>
> Paul. I have used a "ScanGauge II" for a couple of years. It lives in my
> Sprinter van now but I have used it in my BMW, VW and Econoline before. 
> It, of
> course, reads and can clear some OBD codes and has paid for itself a 
> couple of
> times with that feature. However, I currently use it to monitor my 
> Sprinter's
> turbo diesel. It has amazing features and I consider it irreplaceable.
>
> Nothing useful is going to tell you what the code is directly. Many codes 
> are
> specific not only to a manufacturer but sometimes to a particular model 
> (as I
> discovered with my VW). It's pretty east to look them up.
>
> --
> Rod Williams
> Petaluma, California
> 1967 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From pchast at francomm.com  Tue Feb 23 10:33:02 2010
From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 12:33:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>

Hi,

Yes those readers are useful.

However I go to my friendly neighborhood garage
and have the codes read and get a printout for
10-20$ depending on who is working....

Pete
Athens, NY

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 10:03:35 -0500, Councill, David  
<dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:

>
> Is there a question here? I think you are asking about ODBII readers.
> Although limited in what codes they can read, I find them to be a
> valuable tool if you own a newer car and they are inexpensive. I bought
> a Harbor Freight middle of the line reader (about $65 USD) when my 2001
> Land Rover had a check engine light. I had to look the code up on the
> Internet and it translated to a "massive EGR leak" which further
> translated to "loose gas cap". Since then, I have used it on two other
> cars to reset the light and retrieve the codes. The code may still be in
> your car's computer which means the reader may tell you the problem
> (maybe oxygen sensor?).
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Paul Root
> Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:23 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
>
> My daily driver, '99 Subaru OBS, popped the check engine light briefly
> this
> morning just before it was fully warm. It had been stumbling on
> acceleration a
> bit. It cleared itself with in 30 seconds.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as pchast at francomm.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 23 11:57:27 2010
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 10:57:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
Message-ID: <130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Or you could go to Autozone and get the same for free..... ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Pete Chast <pchast at francomm.com>
To: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>; Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>; MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, February 23, 2010 12:33:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers

Hi,

Yes those readers are useful.

However I go to my friendly neighborhood garage
and have the codes read and get a printout for
10-20$ depending on who is working....

Pete
Athens, NY

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 23 12:40:40 2010
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 11:40:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] OT - How to offer a non-LBC to my MG friends
Message-ID: <233591.44033.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Folks,

Please tell me how I can offer to sell a nice non-LBC car to my
MG friends (without violating list protocol).

-rick

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Feb 23 12:55:51 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 13:55:51 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <55F2F803F46B4D09BC64BFFCD95D713B@TomVistaPC>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><EC1978DD-B66C-4E12-B348-1F29D7747970@gmail.com><37BE6EB0-EDCB-406A-A688-B7A863F04E20@sonic.net>
	<55F2F803F46B4D09BC64BFFCD95D713B@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <05F10319416A4B67AE6C118A2BDC120D@ranteer.local>

I have a code reader which we used to read the codes on a 350Z, an 88 
camaro, and a kia van.  unfortunately it will not read my 2005 and 2006 
hondas.  the manufacturer swears it will.  he lies.  anyone have a code 
reader which speaks honda?

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" 
<enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 10:31 AM
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers

> Paul, have a look at the following link. These are the instructions for 
> the Sealey VS8700 which gives you the codes & descriptions all in one.
>
> http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/images_products/PDF/Instructions/VS8700.pdf
>
> Kindest Regards
>
> Tom
> AH3000 MKIII BJ8
> Austin Mini Park Lane
> MGA 1600
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rod Williams" <PRNDL at sonic.net>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 4:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 13:11:46 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 14:11:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
	<130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F088D78A-F384-43D2-A4B8-62DD1AB78D62@gmail.com>

But it's one more toy that I can have in my shop!

It's convenient to have one I think. Especially with an older car like this.
So I got the one from Amazon.

On Feb 23, 2010, at 12:57 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Or you could go to Autozone and get the same for free..... ;-)
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase
>
>
> From: Pete Chast <pchast at francomm.com>
> To: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>; Paul Root
<ptrmgb at gmail.com>; MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, February 23, 2010 12:33:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
>
> Hi,
>
> Yes those readers are useful.
>
> However I go to my friendly neighborhood garage
> and have the codes read and get a printout for
> 10-20$ depending on who is working....
>
> Pete
> Athens, NY

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Feb 23 13:25:15 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 13:25:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] OT - How to offer a non-LBC to my MG friends
In-Reply-To: <233591.44033.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <233591.44033.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B8439AB.70605@bradakis.com>

I'd suggest putting an ad in the Swap Meet forum at
http://www.team.net/forums ( you can include pictures
there ) and then just posting a link to it on the mailing
lists.


mjb.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 13:25:54 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 12:25:54 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] OT - How to offer a non-LBC to my MG friends
In-Reply-To: <233591.44033.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <233591.44033.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <35CF27C2-CB25-4E4C-B2AA-96DDE8B5C394@gmail.com>

Put an MG key fob on the key and write the post like this:
For sale one vintage MG key fob*
$5,000.00.
Comes with free key and car. (Details)
<Very Big Grin>

Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 23, 2010, at 11:40, Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> Please tell me how I can offer to sell a nice non-LBC car to my
> MG friends (without violating list protocol).
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Tue Feb 23 14:43:29 2010
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 13:43:29 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
	<130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B844C01.9070608@cox.net>

On 2/23/2010 10:57 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Or you could go to Autozone and get the same for free..... ;-)
>
>    
Not in Kalifornia. The Bureau of Auto repair determined that they were 
performing auto repair, and insisted they get the requisite licenses. 
Therefore Autozone stopped lending them out. :-( Effen bureaucrats. We 
should put a bunch of them on permanent furlough.

That said, I've seen some for $35 at Costco.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose

From eugeneb at nni.com  Tue Feb 23 15:02:22 2010
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:02:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
Message-ID: <web-267387480@admin.nni.com>

The readers are great to have, but in a pinch, most of the
larger auto parts stores (Autozone, etc) will read the
codes for free....

Gene 

80 B


On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 12:33:02 -0500
 "Pete Chast" <pchast at francomm.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> Yes those readers are useful.
> 
> However I go to my friendly neighborhood garage
> and have the codes read and get a printout for
> 10-20$ depending on who is working....
> 
> Pete
> Athens, NY
> 
> On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 10:03:35 -0500, Councill, David
>  <dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:
> 
> >
> > Is there a question here? I think you are asking about
> ODBII readers.
> > Although limited in what codes they can read, I find
> them to be a
> > valuable tool if you own a newer car and they are
> inexpensive. I bought
> > a Harbor Freight middle of the line reader (about $65
> USD) when my 2001
> > Land Rover had a check engine light. I had to look the
> code up on the
> > Internet and it translated to a "massive EGR leak"
> which further
> > translated to "loose gas cap". Since then, I have used
> it on two other
> > cars to reset the light and retrieve the codes. The
> code may still be in
> > your car's computer which means the reader may tell you
> the problem
> > (maybe oxygen sensor?).
> >
> > David Councill
> > 64 B
> > 67 BGT
> > 72 B
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> > Behalf Of Paul Root
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:23 AM
> > To: MG List
> > Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
> >
> > My daily driver, '99 Subaru OBS, popped the check
> engine light briefly
> > this
> > morning just before it was fully warm. It had been
> stumbling on
> > acceleration a
> > bit. It cleared itself with in 30 seconds.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Suggested annual donation - $16.22
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> > Subscribed as pchast at francomm.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> -- 
> Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client:
> http://www.opera.com/mail/
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Suggested annual donation - $16.22
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> Subscribed as eugeneb at nni.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

---------------------------------------------------------------------
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From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Tue Feb 23 15:32:57 2010
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:32:57 EST
Subject: [Mgs] OT - How to offer a non-LBC to my MG friends
Message-ID: <173d2.41ccd4ee.38b5b199@aol.com>

Don't be shy...Just state your case. You're a  trust worthy guy. After all, 
we're sort of like a family. A good deal's a good  deal. Just don't make it 
a daily or weekly thing  like...Ricks-Auto-Rama!
Alberto Escalante
1976 MGB

In a message  dated 2/23/2010 12:09:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
rolindsay at yahoo.com  writes:
Hi Folks,

Please tell me how I can offer to sell a nice  non-LBC car to my
MG friends (without violating list  protocol).

-rick

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 17:35:56 2010
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:35:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4B844C01.9070608@cox.net>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
	<130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4B844C01.9070608@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4B84746C.1050208@gmail.com>

David Ambrose wrote:
> On 2/23/2010 10:57 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>> Or you could go to Autozone and get the same for free..... ;-)
>>
>>    
> Not in Kalifornia. The Bureau of Auto repair determined that they were 
> performing auto repair, and insisted they get the requisite licenses. 
> Therefore Autozone stopped lending them out. :-( Effen bureaucrats. We 
> should put a bunch of them on permanent furlough.
>
> That said, I've seen some for $35 at Costco. 
Put 'em on the fire.

-Rocky Frisco
--

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Feb 23 18:14:45 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:14:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4B84746C.1050208@gmail.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
	<130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4B844C01.9070608@cox.net> <4B84746C.1050208@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>

>> Not in Kalifornia. The Bureau of Auto repair determined that they 
>> were performing auto repair, and insisted they get the requisite 
>> licenses. Therefore Autozone stopped lending them out. :-( Effen 
>> bureaucrats. We should put a bunch of them on permanent furlough.
>>
>> That said, I've seen some for $35 at Costco. 

They sell bureaucrats at Costco??

mjb.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Feb 23 18:28:32 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:28:32 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <C7A9C0C0.2749F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That's pretty cheap, too. In CA they usually run about $100K, with benefits
and OT.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 2/23/10 5:14 PM, Mark J Bradakis at mark at bradakis.com wrote:

>>> Not in Kalifornia. The Bureau of Auto repair determined that they
>>> were performing auto repair, and insisted they get the requisite
>>> licenses. Therefore Autozone stopped lending them out. :-( Effen
>>> bureaucrats. We should put a bunch of them on permanent furlough.
>>> 
>>> That said, I've seen some for $35 at Costco.
> 
> They sell bureaucrats at Costco??
> 
> mjb.

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Feb 23 18:44:48 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:44:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
	<130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4B844C01.9070608@cox.net> <4B84746C.1050208@gmail.com>
	<4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4B848490.7030104@justbrits.com>

<< They sell bureaucrats at Costco?? >>

Sell 'em everywhere else Mark, so why not ???

Enquiring minds [and all that] ..............?!?

<VBEG>

Anon

PS:  Wally World IS next !!!!   LOL

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Tue Feb 23 19:40:33 2010
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:40:33 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
	<130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4B844C01.9070608@cox.net> <4B84746C.1050208@gmail.com>
	<4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4B8491A1.2040904@cox.net>

On 2/23/2010 5:14 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>>> Not in Kalifornia. The Bureau of Auto repair determined that they 
>>> were performing auto repair, and insisted they get the requisite 
>>> licenses. Therefore Autozone stopped lending them out. :-( Effen 
>>> bureaucrats. We should put a bunch of them on permanent furlough.
>>>
>>> That said, I've seen some for $35 at Costco. 
>
> They sell bureaucrats at Costco??
I hear they tried it once, but the return rate was well over 100%.

No, <extracting foot from mouth> I meant the code readers. Besides. 
Who'd ever want a household bureaucrat? Unless, maybe you're preparing 
for an eternity in Hell. :-)

Cheers,
Dave

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 19:46:04 2010
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:46:04 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - ODB II readers
In-Reply-To: <4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>
References: <5FB1749A-CDA7-466E-AA98-0103A78C786F@gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D5E0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<op.u8lcdcu8sjevdj@pete200>
	<130134.95826.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4B844C01.9070608@cox.net> <4B84746C.1050208@gmail.com>
	<4B847D85.5020309@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <66A04E00-CB78-4AE3-86D2-6149FDC60A55@gmail.com>

On Feb 23, 2010, at 7:14 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

>>> Not in Kalifornia. The Bureau of Auto repair determined that they were
performing auto repair, and insisted they get the requisite licenses.
Therefore Autozone stopped lending them out. :-( Effen bureaucrats. We should
put a bunch of them on permanent furlough.
>>>
>>> That said, I've seen some for $35 at Costco.
>
> They sell bureaucrats at Costco??
>
> mjb

Man, thinks are expensive in California. Bureaucrats aren't worth that much in
Minnesota.

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Feb 25 14:32:34 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 14:32:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D39@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I'd say I am in the middle of a 64B restoration but with all the
complications I may still be in the early stages. Or eventually, I may
hit some easy spots and be done soon. It certainly isn't close to being
a basic disassembly / reassembly so far. In the clutch hydraulics, the
master cylinder is done and in place. But the slave cylinder is seized
up - I have removed the boot but cannot get the metal cup piece out.
I've tried Busty and NAPA's penetrant but it appears rusted in place. I
recall someone mentioning blowing it (and the rubber cup seal) out with
compressed air. But that didn't work either, using 90 psi (some leakage
at the hose fitting but it built some pressure up inside the slave
cylinder but likely not the full 90 psi). Still no movement and no leaks
in the inner cylinder bore. I may see if I can get another rebuildable
unit when I am in Oregon next week unless someone has another idea of
what I can try.



David Councill

64 B

67 BGT

72 B

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 25 14:38:53 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 13:38:53 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D39@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <C7AC2DED.275B8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

If it's that stuck you probably want to start with a better unit, anyway. I
don't know if you can buy a rebuilt one and turn in a core.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 2/25/10 1:32 PM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> I'd say I am in the middle of a 64B restoration but with all the
> complications I may still be in the early stages. Or eventually, I may
> hit some easy spots and be done soon. It certainly isn't close to being
> a basic disassembly / reassembly so far. In the clutch hydraulics, the
> master cylinder is done and in place. But the slave cylinder is seized
> up - I have removed the boot but cannot get the metal cup piece out.
> I've tried Busty and NAPA's penetrant but it appears rusted in place. I
> recall someone mentioning blowing it (and the rubber cup seal) out with
> compressed air. But that didn't work either, using 90 psi (some leakage
> at the hose fitting but it built some pressure up inside the slave
> cylinder but likely not the full 90 psi). Still no movement and no leaks
> in the inner cylinder bore. I may see if I can get another rebuildable
> unit when I am in Oregon next week unless someone has another idea of
> what I can try.
> 
> 
> 
> David Councill
> 
> 64 B
> 
> 67 BGT
> 
> 72 B

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Feb 25 14:52:15 2010
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:52:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D39@EXVS01.msubilling s.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D39@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <0KYF00GX43F582I0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

The other strategy is to use a grease gun to force grease into the 
cylinder.  A grease gun can actually generate considerable 
pressure.  Also, if you are successful, the piston does not fire 
across the garage, which can happen with air pressure.  Of course, if 
the cylinder is that frozen, what are the chances that the cylinder 
walls will be good enough to rebuild?  Then you have to find another 
core, or have it sleeved in brass or stainless.  That probably isn't 
really worth doing for a part that is available from the usual 
suspects.  Good luck.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 04:32 PM 2/25/2010, Councill, David wrote:
>I'd say I am in the middle of a 64B restoration but with all the
>complications I may still be in the early stages. Or eventually, I may
>hit some easy spots and be done soon. It certainly isn't close to being
>a basic disassembly / reassembly so far. In the clutch hydraulics, the
>master cylinder is done and in place. But the slave cylinder is seized
>up - I have removed the boot but cannot get the metal cup piece out.
>I've tried Busty and NAPA's penetrant but it appears rusted in place. I
>recall someone mentioning blowing it (and the rubber cup seal) out with
>compressed air. But that didn't work either, using 90 psi (some leakage
>at the hose fitting but it built some pressure up inside the slave
>cylinder but likely not the full 90 psi). Still no movement and no leaks
>in the inner cylinder bore. I may see if I can get another rebuildable
>unit when I am in Oregon next week unless someone has another idea of
>what I can try.

From atweditor at aol.com  Thu Feb 25 15:03:09 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:03:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle
In-Reply-To: <C7AC2DED.275B8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8CC847D733EB815-385C-2A9D@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com>

 I agree with Max.  Retreat and declare victory.

Jay Donoghue
72 B-GT








-----Original Message-----
From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Feb 25, 2010 4:38 pm
Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle


If it's that stuck you probably want to start with a better unit, anyway. I
don't know if you can buy a rebuilt one and turn in a core.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 2/25/10 1:32 PM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> I'd say I am in the middle of a 64B restoration but with all the
> complications I may still be in the early stages. Or eventually, I may
> hit some easy spots and be done soon. It certainly isn't close to being
> a basic disassembly / reassembly so far. In the clutch hydraulics, the
> master cylinder is done and in place. But the slave cylinder is seized
> up - I have removed the boot but cannot get the metal cup piece out.
> I've tried Busty and NAPA's penetrant but it appears rusted in place. I
> recall someone mentioning blowing it (and the rubber cup seal) out with
> compressed air. But that didn't work either, using 90 psi (some leakage
> at the hose fitting but it built some pressure up inside the slave
> cylinder but likely not the full 90 psi). Still no movement and no leaks
> in the inner cylinder bore. I may see if I can get another rebuildable
> unit when I am in Oregon next week unless someone has another idea of
> what I can try.
>
>
>
> David Councill
>
> 64 B
>
> 67 BGT
>
> 72 B
Suggested annual donation - $16.22

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Subscribed as atweditor at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Thu Feb 25 15:23:42 2010
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:23:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D39@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <C8024EB680764222A96898E652C1F4C6@frankdcczr6l6k>

David: The grease gun remedy has always worked for me but it does make a 
mess. You need to find a fitting that threads into the opening at the rear 
of of the cylinder and  onto your grease gun; be certain to close the 
bleeder so the grease doesn't ooze out. As another lister mentioned, the 
cylinder is probably so rusted as to be unusable. You can carefully use a 
brake cylinder hone to hone the slave cylinder but be careful not to 
overhone ( is that  word?) and make the bore too large.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: "MG Digest" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 4:32 PM
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle


> I'd say I am in the middle of a 64B restoration but with all the
> complications I may still be in the early stages. Or eventually, I may
> hit some easy spots and be done soon. It certainly isn't close to being
> a basic disassembly / reassembly so far. In the clutch hydraulics, the
> master cylinder is done and in place. But the slave cylinder is seized
> up - I have removed the boot but cannot get the metal cup piece out.
> I've tried Busty and NAPA's penetrant but it appears rusted in place. I
> recall someone mentioning blowing it (and the rubber cup seal) out with
> compressed air. But that didn't work either, using 90 psi (some leakage
> at the hose fitting but it built some pressure up inside the slave
> cylinder but likely not the full 90 psi). Still no movement and no leaks
> in the inner cylinder bore. I may see if I can get another rebuildable
> unit when I am in Oregon next week unless someone has another idea of
> what I can try.
>
>
>
> David Councill
>
> 64 B
>
> 67 BGT
>
> 72 B
> _______________________________________________

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Feb 25 15:26:48 2010
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:26:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle
In-Reply-To: <0KYF00GX43F582I0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D39@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<0KYF00GX43F582I0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <4B86F928.4020409@gmail.com>

Steven Trovato wrote:
> The other strategy is to use a grease gun to force grease into the 
> cylinder.  A grease gun can actually generate considerable pressure.  
> Also, if you are successful, the piston does not fire across the 
> garage, which can happen with air pressure.  Of course, if the 
> cylinder is that frozen, what are the chances that the cylinder walls 
> will be good enough to rebuild?  Then you have to find another core, 
> or have it sleeved in brass or stainless.  That probably isn't really 
> worth doing for a part that is available from the usual suspects.  
> Good luck. 
I took a Mini hub to the machine shop with the bearing and axle seized. They heated it and applied hydraulic force to it, literally many thousands of pounds. They called and said, "Please take this away before we kill somebody." I brought it home, still seized, and stuck it in a vise outdoors and liberally applied Liquid Wrench and left it there. 

The next afternoon, I went to take it out of the vise and the axle and bearing fell out and very nearly hit my foot.

-Rocky Frisco
--

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 25 15:37:17 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:37:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Master Cylinder Barfing
Message-ID: <SNT124-W170FB8290328856E794663B7400@phx.gbl>

This is in my new-to-me '73 Midget.  At some point over the colder months, the
clutch master cylinder leaked, spilling onto the driver's side footwell.  When
I bought the car, DPO told me this had happened to him last winter, too, so I
was kind of expecting it.  Any ideas as to what's going on?  I'm already
planning to install a new MC and slave anyway, but I can't figure out what it
is about cold weather (I mean cold like ~zero degrees f.) that would make it
leak and pour out.



A second, perhaps related, clutch problem I'd appreciate any insight on: when
you put any presssure on the clutch, engine running, you get a whining
squealing sound - release the clutch and it's gone.  Doesn't matter if it's in
gear or neutral.  My diagnosis is that the throwout bearing is shot, and I
plan to replace the bearing, pressure plate and clutch disc this spring.  Any
other thoughts?



Cheers,

-Mike Eldred

Wilmington, VT

'54 MG TF

'73 Midget

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 25 16:11:42 2010
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 15:11:42 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Master Cylinder Barfing
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W170FB8290328856E794663B7400@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C7AC43AE.275D0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Folowing up on the other clutch cylinder thread...

Maybe somebody rebuilt the clutch MC, and "overhoned" it. In extremely cold
weather the metal shrinks and it loses the seal. Just a theory. Or the seals
could just be old and hard -- same effect.

I would agree about the TO bearing.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/25/10 2:37 PM, Mike Eldred at redscirocco at hotmail.com wrote:

> This is in my new-to-me '73 Midget.  At some point over the colder months, the
> clutch master cylinder leaked, spilling onto the driver's side footwell.  When
> I bought the car, DPO told me this had happened to him last winter, too, so I
> was kind of expecting it.  Any ideas as to what's going on?  I'm already
> planning to install a new MC and slave anyway, but I can't figure out what it
> is about cold weather (I mean cold like ~zero degrees f.) that would make it
> leak and pour out.
> 
> 
> 
> A second, perhaps related, clutch problem I'd appreciate any insight on: when
> you put any presssure on the clutch, engine running, you get a whining
> squealing sound - release the clutch and it's gone.  Doesn't matter if it's in
> gear or neutral.  My diagnosis is that the throwout bearing is shot, and I
> plan to replace the bearing, pressure plate and clutch disc this spring.  Any
> other thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> -Mike Eldred
> 
> Wilmington, VT
> 
> '54 MG TF
> 
> '73 Midget

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Feb 25 16:27:36 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:27:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Master Cylinder Barfing
In-Reply-To: <C7AC43AE.275D0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <SNT124-W170FB8290328856E794663B7400@phx.gbl>
	<C7AC43AE.275D0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D68@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

The master cylinder can leak, as described. And I have had it happen on
my 67 BGT. But a rebuild should last for many years, even decades. So
I'd say it was overhoned like Max says or alternately, it may not have
been honed at all during the prior rebuild and a rough area or rust spot
is causing premature seal failure.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 4:12 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch Master Cylinder Barfing

Folowing up on the other clutch cylinder thread...

Maybe somebody rebuilt the clutch MC, and "overhoned" it. In extremely
cold weather the metal shrinks and it loses the seal. Just a theory. Or
the seals could just be old and hard -- same effect.

I would agree about the TO bearing.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/25/10 2:37 PM, Mike Eldred at redscirocco at hotmail.com wrote:

> This is in my new-to-me '73 Midget.  At some point over the colder
> months, the clutch master cylinder leaked, spilling onto the driver's
> side footwell.  When I bought the car, DPO told me this had happened
> to him last winter, too, so I was kind of expecting it.  Any ideas as
> to what's going on?  I'm already planning to install a new MC and
> slave anyway, but I can't figure out what it is about cold weather (I
> mean cold like ~zero degrees f.) that would make it leak and pour out.
>
>
>
> A second, perhaps related, clutch problem I'd appreciate any insight
> on: when you put any presssure on the clutch, engine running, you get
> a whining squealing sound - release the clutch and it's gone.  Doesn't

> matter if it's in gear or neutral.  My diagnosis is that the throwout
> bearing is shot, and I plan to replace the bearing, pressure plate and

> clutch disc this spring.  Any other thoughts?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> -Mike Eldred
>
> Wilmington, VT
>
> '54 MG TF
>
> '73 Midget

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Feb 25 16:43:16 2010
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:43:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle
In-Reply-To: <0KYF00GX43F582I0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D39@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<0KYF00GX43F582I0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06AE1D6E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I'll have to try this grease gun idea if I can find a fitting. Worst
case scenario though is that I can always buy a new slave cylinder from
a Moss distributer for about $50 USD barring any other solutions.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Trovato [mailto:strovato at optonline.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 2:52 PM
To: Councill, David; MG Digest
Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch slave cylinder struggle

The other strategy is to use a grease gun to force grease into the
cylinder.  A grease gun can actually generate considerable pressure.
Also, if you are successful, the piston does not fire across the garage,
which can happen with air pressure.  Of course, if the cylinder is that
frozen, what are the chances that the cylinder walls will be good enough
to rebuild?  Then you have to find another core, or have it sleeved in
brass or stainless.  That probably isn't really worth doing for a part
that is available from the usual suspects.  Good luck.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From jevans at mydb3.com  Thu Feb 25 18:26:35 2010
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 19:26:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] 14th Annual All British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble
Message-ID: <4253.75.57.142.226.1267147595.squirrel@wm.mydb3.com>

A quick follow up to earlier messages...looks like we will open the doors
Sunday morning February 28 to a sold out house with over 100
vendor spaces taken...anyone planning to just show up & hope for a spot
should call me for a rundown on the situation...doors open at 8 AM & it's
best to come in the AM if you can...as usual, there will be a number of
cars for sale in the parking lot...make sure you enter the correct
building as the Toy & Model Car show will be running the same day on the
premises in a separate building so look for the two buildings with British
flags out
front...vendor selection is outstanding - parts, clubs, restoration shops
& supplies, tools, regalia & more...hope all you listers in the midwest
can join us...anyone posting to other lists is encouraged to forward
this...Chicago has had a rough winter but at this time there is no snow or
ice on any public thoroughfares, all roads good and the forecast is sunny,
clear and low-30's...swap meet location is at the DuPage County
Fairgrounds in Wheaton IL...one day only from 8 AM to 3 PM.

All those attending should ignore signs regarding "road construction" and
"detour" at Manchester Rd & County Farm Rd...these relate to a RR crossing
about 1 mile east of the fairgrounds...way beyond the entry gates and of
no consequence to the Swap Meet.

Any questions - email me off list or call me at 630-858-8192 or see the
website at http://www.britishcarswap.info

Mapquest to 2015 West Manchester Road, Wheaton Illinois 60187

Hope to see you there!

FOR THE CHICAGOLAND MG CLUB
Jim Evans
__________

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Feb 25 19:38:28 2010
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 20:38:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Master Cylinder Barfing
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W170FB8290328856E794663B7400@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W170FB8290328856E794663B7400@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B873424.7050905@gmail.com>

Mike Eldred wrote:
> This is in my new-to-me '73 Midget.  At some point over the colder months, the
> clutch master cylinder leaked, spilling onto the driver's side footwell.  When
> I bought the car, DPO told me this had happened to him last winter, too, so I
> was kind of expecting it.  Any ideas as to what's going on?  I'm already
> planning to install a new MC and slave anyway, but I can't figure out what it
> is about cold weather (I mean cold like ~zero degrees f.) that would make it
> leak and pour out.
>   
Old rubber (seals) get hard when it's cold and they start leaking.
> A second, perhaps related, clutch problem I'd appreciate any insight on: when
> you put any presssure on the clutch, engine running, you get a whining
> squealing sound - release the clutch and it's gone.  Doesn't matter if it's in
> gear or neutral.  My diagnosis is that the throwout bearing is shot, and I
> plan to replace the bearing, pressure plate and clutch disc this spring.  Any
> other thoughts?
Yup. Replace them.

-Rocky Frisco
--

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Sat Feb 27 09:24:31 2010
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 16:24:31 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] They sell bureaucrats at Costco??
Message-ID: <451oBAqXf1950S16.1267287871@cmsweb16.cms.usa.net>

You know, last spring I pulled my '70 BGT out of the shipping container it is
stored in, drove it to work and back every day of the week for the whole
summer, and stored it again. The only maintenance it required was fuel and
oil-change. The only repair it required was a jump start when I left the
lights on. I didn't even have to add any oil.

So I haven't really been paying much attention to this list, as I know that
others with more knowledge give better answers than I could.

But this last thread was just priceless!

Can I just say, on behalf of myself and many others I'm sure, THANK YOU to
the
regulars on this list who provide so much good information.

From rsexson at excite.com  Sun Feb 28 10:52:05 2010
From: rsexson at excite.com (BOb Sexson)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 12:52:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <20100228125205.1553@web009.roc2.bluetie.com>

 Five years ago i rebuilt the engine in my 74B. Today I moved it to where i
could tinker with it and found a couple of oil spots
on the floor. I  thought  i had done everything perfect.

Bob Sexson
74 MGB
74 Midget
72 vw project

------------------------------------------------------------
Wanna lose weight?  Weight Loss Programs that work. Click here.
Diet Help
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zGAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA=

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sun Feb 28 11:24:41 2010
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 12:24:41 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <20100228125205.1553@web009.roc2.bluetie.com>
References: <20100228125205.1553@web009.roc2.bluetie.com>
Message-ID: <000601cab8a3$4bf555f0$e3e001d0$@net>

That just means it has oil in it.  If a B Engine does not leave it's mark it
is out of oil.



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of BOb Sexson
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 11:52 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)

 Five years ago i rebuilt the engine in my 74B. Today I moved it to where i
could tinker with it and found a couple of oil spots
on the floor. I  thought  i had done everything perfect.

Bob Sexson
74 MGB
74 Midget
72 vw project

From atweditor at aol.com  Sun Feb 28 13:34:53 2010
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 15:34:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <20100228125205.1553@web009.roc2.bluetie.com>
References: <20100228125205.1553@web009.roc2.bluetie.com>
Message-ID: <8CC86CC9DC64301-3788-15CF3@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

Be thankful they were just spots. The consensus of this list is that if you
were ever unfortunate enough to staunch all of the leaks in the engine, the
consequences would be much worse. Think hydraulic fluid in the cockpit for
starters.

Jay Donoghue
72 B-GT
66 Mustang




-----Original Message-----
From: BOb Sexson <rsexson at excite.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Feb 28, 2010 12:52 pm
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)


 Five years ago i rebuilt the engine in my 74B. Today I moved it to where i
could tinker with it and found a couple of oil spots
on the floor. I  thought  i had done everything perfect.

Bob Sexson
74 MGB
74 Midget
72 vw project

------------------------------------------------------------
Wanna lose weight?  Weight Loss Programs that work. Click here.
Diet Help
http://tagline.excite.com/c?cp=LdFo81wjA0JOsSu2fzOjswAAKZReHRC8sej45eE9szO1ma
zGAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA=
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Sun Feb 28 18:01:56 2010
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 19:01:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) Now Perfection
Message-ID: <4B8B1204.6030008@comcast.net>

Bob,

This should have a subject because this could be fun. New material, please.

It's the patented 'Flow-through' lubrication system we've all heard 
about. My first two MG's didn't have this feature, but the Redcar 
certainly does. I've improved it since replacing the rear end and not 
checking the brake lines sufficiently.

How's your smoke level doing? Remember, just because there's no smoke on 
the floor doesn't mean there's smoke in the car.

Glenn

> Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <20100228125205.1553 at web009.roc2.bluetie.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
>  Five years ago i rebuilt the engine in my 74B. Today I moved it to where i
> could tinker with it and found a couple of oil spots
> on the floor. I  thought  i had done everything perfect.
> 
> Bob Sexson
> 74 MGB
> 74 Midget
> 72 vw project


-- 
Glenn Schnittke

-----------------------
g.schnittke at comcast.net
Home - 615-837-5883
Cell - 615-319-5534

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 28 20:55:35 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 20:55:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Who are you?
Message-ID: <4B8B3AB7.1000804@bradakis.com>

There may be one or two of you on the Team.Net triumph list
who have already seen this.  A recent discussion over there
resulted in a flurry of forum activity.  Maybe you MG folks
would like to do the same in the MG forum.

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27

Actually this is just shameless self promotion to get my
smiling face in front of any Hollywood talent scouts that
might be lurking on this list.


mjb.