From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 00:11:04 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 01:11:04 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401071104.E600D2E022@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those firstly faint glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Apr 1 00:44:11 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 08:44:11 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Installing a Crane XR 700 electronic ignition - tips? References: <4BB35EAD.6080207@gmail.com> <4BB38191.8040702@cox.net> Message-ID: <39301EC147D44BAEAF5A4AE248492A6F@paul> If you have a 72 or earlier with the current triggered tach (RVI number on the dial) you usually have to alter the pickup so the ignition wire only goes through it once instead of twice, i.e. half a turn instead of a full turn. For the later types this entails opening it up, unfortunately. From 73 on the voltage triggered types (RVC) are supposed to be immune, so if you can get the right size a swap might be easier. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The only unfortunate side effect of the electronic ignition is that the > tach is off. There are some ways to fix that, but I can't remember what > they are. Maybe somebody else knows? From barrie at look.ca Thu Apr 1 06:39:48 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:39:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Gear shift knob In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Folks, Thanks for the many responses. The difference between the knob and gear sift knob is very very small. I do not want to drill it out because I might damage the wood (it is gorgeous - recommend all should get one - go look at the selection!). Although the knob has a hard finish I do not think it will take kindly to a vice. Perhaps I should make a sort of cup to hold it firm while I drill gently. Another suggestion is to use a rubber sleeve and this has merit because I only need something like 1/64. A sleeve would act as a vibration buffer - not that Astons have vibrations (-:. So that is my first attempt, cup holder next............and go look at Larry Heap's knobs (alright, alright, settle down class!!!!) At 11:05 PM 3/31/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >Heilcoils and other thread inserts don't go to the next standard thread size >to the best of my knowledge. >A helicoil kit comes with some bizarre sized tap that is set to the outside >of the helicoil. For example if you have a stripped 1/4X20 hole, it does >not tap out to 5/16X18 or 5/16X24 because the threads per inch have to >remain constant between the desired size and what it is being tapped out to >for the helicoil. So if you are installing a helicoil in a 1/4X20 hole >whatever the size the tap is it will be 20 TPI. >So if your knob is larger than the shift lever, you can have a custom insert >machined assuming the difference is large enough, or you might be able to >fill the hole with some type of filler that can then be drilled and machined >(JB Weld?) or you can buy a new knob. >Rick > >On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 2:13 PM, Max Heim wrote: > > > Are you thinking of Helicoils? > > > > It will probably require drilling and retapping the knob, to the next > > larger > > SAE thread. > > > > -- > > > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > > > on 3/31/10 1:00 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote: > > > > > I got a beautiful gear shift knob from Larry Heaps who can be found > > > on www.britcot.com - it was for my under restoration Aston. But, as > > > usual, Brit threads are different and it will not fit. The gear > > > shift thread is 5/16 with 22 pitch, the knob is slightly larger than > > > 5/16 with bigger thread. There are some inserts one can get but I am > > > damned if I can remember the name and what they do. Can someone help > > > here please? - Thanks in advance for responses. > > > > > > I tried plumbers tape and that was hopeless. > > > > > > Regards > > > > > > Barrie > > > barrie at look.ca > > > (705) 721-9060 > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Apr 1 08:44:49 2010 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 11:44:49 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Gear shift knob Message-ID: <3702c.6ed8e2db.38e61971@aol.com> Barrie, the shift know thread isn't a critical structural issue. You might consider drilling the hole just slightly oversize so that it clears the root thread size on the shaft, and then see how far down it fits, and if not far enough, run a correct tap in. Even if you hash the inside threads a bit, they will often thread on enough, especially if you (lightly) fit a thin lock nut under it. I know it sounds like butchery, but it often works in that specific situation, and saves a bad situation when there really isn't enough meat to be doing major machining without harming the knob. If you do drill it out, you might want to try doing it on a drill press and holding the knob in your hand wearing a rubber glove. Of course if it catches (which it WILL if you apply much pressure at all) it may fling it across the shop, so doing it inside a cardboard box is advisable, but I've had luck doing this very carefully and it doesn't risk making marks on the outside of the knob.. Bill In a message dated 4/1/2010 8:36:00 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, barrie at look.ca writes: Thanks for the many responses. The difference between the knob and gear sift knob is very very small. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Thu Apr 1 10:12:20 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 13:12:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Four Angry Cylinders Message-ID: <48A000133223479099DF7B8B7F72C902@EricJRussellPC> Road & Track drives the Shiftright Special. http://www.roadandtrack.com/special_feature/1949-mg-tc-four-angry-cylinders It is nothing short of remarkable that this car even exists today. The 1949 MG TC was certainly not built with the idea that it would be still running many decades later. It is for this reason, for instance, that modern skyscrapers, tunnels and freeways are not made of wood. Nonetheless, the TC was certainly built to a purpose - to get a person from one place to another as uncomfortably as humanly possible has been suggested as the motive. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell From mike at sportscarslimited.net Thu Apr 1 10:19:39 2010 From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 10:19:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Gear shift knob In-Reply-To: <3702c.6ed8e2db.38e61971@aol.com> References: <3702c.6ed8e2db.38e61971@aol.com> Message-ID: Sorry to come to this late. What you have appears to be a BSF 5/16 X 22 thread, and a UNF 5/19 X 20 thread incompatability. You will probably never find a heli-coil for the BSF situation. Taps & dies are available for the BSF threads. Moss sells the tap for 18.95, and the die for 45.32 (USF). The best situation would be to start with a new, untapped gearshift knob, and use the correct tap, but it is probably too late for that. It might be possible to tap out the existing hole to the correct size for the shift lever, since they are only 2 threads/inch different, and then to use a jamb nut to tighten everything up. If it doesn't work, you are out a knob no matter what else happens. Good luck Mike Singleton Michael Singleton Sportscars Ltd 10170 Croydon Way Suite M Sacramento, CA 95826 (916)366-0330 mike at sportscarslimited.net From rocknatural at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 12:01:08 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:01:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Gear shift knob In-Reply-To: References: <3702c.6ed8e2db.38e61971@aol.com> Message-ID: <4BB4ED74.9010406@gmail.com> Michael Singleton wrote: > Sorry to come to this late. What you have appears to be a BSF 5/16 X 22 > thread, and a UNF 5/19 X 20 thread incompatability. You will probably never > find a heli-coil for the BSF situation. Taps & dies are available for the > BSF threads. Moss sells the tap for 18.95, and the die for 45.32 (USF). The > best situation would be to start with a new, untapped gearshift knob, and > use the correct tap, but it is probably too late for that. It might be > possible to tap out the existing hole to the correct size for the shift > lever, since they are only 2 threads/inch different, and then to use a jamb > nut to tighten everything up. If it doesn't work, you are out a knob no > matter what else happens. You can use vaseline petroleum jelly as a release agent on the shift lever and use epoxy to fill the space between. I used to use DevCon black for these jobs, but have been unable to find it for a while. -Rocky Frisco -- From pchast at francomm.com Thu Apr 1 12:22:17 2010 From: pchast at francomm.com (Pete Chast) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 15:22:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Gear shift knob In-Reply-To: References: <3702c.6ed8e2db.38e61971@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi Do You have a friend with a lathe?. It would be no problem to chuck it back in a lathe or use a jam chuck. Then drill that out and add a new piece of wood that could be later drilled to the right size to thread on.... Almost any one could do it for you. Where do you live? Look for a wood working club near you. Take them an old shifter stalk if you want it to be exact.... Pete On Thu, 01 Apr 2010 13:19:39 -0400, Michael Singleton wrote: > > Sorry to come to this late. What you have appears to be a BSF 5/16 X 22 > thread, and a UNF 5/19 X 20 thread incompatability. You will probably > never > find a heli-coil for the BSF situation. Taps & dies are available for the > BSF threads. Moss sells the tap for 18.95, and the die for 45.32 (USF). > The > best situation would be to start with a new, untapped gearshift knob, and > use the correct tap, but it is probably too late for that. It might be > possible to tap out the existing hole to the correct size for the shift > lever, since they are only 2 threads/inch different, and then to use a > jamb > nut to tighten everything up. If it doesn't work, you are out a knob no > matter what else happens. > > Good luck > > Mike Singleton > > Michael Singleton > Sportscars Ltd > 10170 Croydon Way > Suite M > Sacramento, CA 95826 > (916)366-0330 > mike at sportscarslimited.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast at francomm.com -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From thgun at comporium.net Fri Apr 2 07:54:19 2010 From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 10:54:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA Message-ID: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> I need to take my car for service. It will be twenty miles or so. What is the best way to tow it? Tom Gunderson 1957, 1500 MGA, rst From eric at erickson.on.net Fri Apr 2 08:37:13 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 02:07:13 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA In-Reply-To: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: On 03/04/2010, at 1:24 AM, wrote: > I need to take my car for service. It will be twenty miles or so. What is the best way to tow it? From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Apr 2 08:42:30 2010 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 08:42:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA In-Reply-To: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <805465.74224.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Fri, 4/2/10, thgun at comporium.net wrote: > I need to take my car for service. > It will be twenty miles or so. What is the best way to tow > it? On a flatbed wrecker. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Fri Apr 2 08:58:17 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 09:58:17 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA In-Reply-To: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D6B1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> That depends on the meaning of "best". To determine best, several factors come into play - one person job or with helper, type of traffic to be encountered, equipment availability, maybe cost. I have done quite a bit of towing of MGBs the past decade or more under quite a few scenarios, mostly long distances so my general preferred method is a flat bed trailer but for short distances I have used the less expensive car dolly. This is because I have a land Rover to do the towing but I have rented the trailers from U-Haul (although I am in the process of buying a flat bed trailer that needs restoration). In my poorer days (and younger when I was more daring), I relied on a helper and a tow rope almost exclusively. I might even do it now if it is low traffic, slower speed roadways. One time I even towed a 65 MGB using a 71 MGBGT and tow rope in Denver for maybe 10 miles. In the day, that was my "best" option because it was all I had and could afford. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thgun at comporium.net Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 8:54 AM To: Mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA I need to take my car for service. It will be twenty miles or so. What is the best way to tow it? Tom Gunderson 1957, 1500 MGA, rst From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Apr 2 08:59:58 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:59:58 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA References: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <64A5B534372140718997FF7489E4A795@paul> See http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/cf113.htm and http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/gt201.htm But why can't you drive it? If it is undriveable surely it should be fixed before it is serviced. ----- Original Message ----- > I need to take my car for service. It will be twenty miles or so. What is > the best way to tow it? From thgun at comporium.net Fri Apr 2 09:34:52 2010 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 12:34:52 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA Message-ID: <7228C2A0AF074D978C84899D1DECE98B@TOMPC> My car will start and drive. I can't get any speed when I get on the road. I may not be able to do 20 mph. I live in Edgemoor, SC. and there is a shop about 8-10 miles away. I don't feel good on the highway that slow. Tom From barrie at look.ca Fri Apr 2 09:37:19 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 12:37:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA In-Reply-To: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: Tom, Get a flat bed - Several towing places do not charge much more - My chaps here charge the same At 10:54 AM 4/2/2010, thgun at comporium.net wrote: > I need to take my car for service. It will be twenty miles or so. > What is the best way to tow it? >Tom Gunderson >1957, 1500 MGA, rst >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From redscirocco at hotmail.com Fri Apr 2 09:53:35 2010 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 12:53:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA In-Reply-To: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: If it is a significant distance, a flatbed. Or if you have a vehicle set up for towing, the U-haul car carriers are awesome. For short distances, I think the tow dollies are okay. Just okay. > From: thgun at comporium.net > To: Mgs at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 10:54:19 -0400 > Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA > > I need to take my car for service. It will be twenty miles or so. What is the best way to tow it? > Tom Gunderson > 1957, 1500 MGA, rst > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From ptrmgb at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 09:56:54 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 11:56:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D6B1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <20100402105419.EHZ33634@ms1.comporium.net> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D6B1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <03CB3F21-687E-4561-8788-32F1FB2A65E7@gmail.com> My brother and I on at least one occasion in College, towed 1 Datsun Roadster with another. The towed car was a newly acquired race car and a 2liter with the massive solex carbs. The towing car was a 1600. Both were filled with us and needed during spring break. On Apr 2, 2010, at 10:58 AM, Councill, David wrote: > That depends on the meaning of "best". To determine best, several > factors come into play - one person job or with helper, type of traffic > to be encountered, equipment availability, maybe cost. I have done quite > a bit of towing of MGBs the past decade or more under quite a few > scenarios, mostly long distances so my general preferred method is a > flat bed trailer but for short distances I have used the less expensive > car dolly. This is because I have a land Rover to do the towing but I > have rented the trailers from U-Haul (although I am in the process of > buying a flat bed trailer that needs restoration). > > In my poorer days (and younger when I was more daring), I relied on a > helper and a tow rope almost exclusively. I might even do it now if it > is low traffic, slower speed roadways. One time I even towed a 65 MGB > using a 71 MGBGT and tow rope in Denver for maybe 10 miles. In the day, > that was my "best" option because it was all I had and could afford. > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of thgun at comporium.net > Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 8:54 AM > To: Mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA > > > I need to take my car for service. It will be twenty miles or so. What > is the best way to tow it? > Tom Gunderson > 1957, 1500 MGA, rst From markwisenc at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 10:41:59 2010 From: markwisenc at gmail.com (Mark Wise) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 13:41:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB maintenance after 3+ years not driving? Message-ID: <4BB62C67.4080803@gmail.com> I just wanted to thank everyone for their great information and suggestions for getting my MGB back on the road. I've compiled it all into one master checklist that I'll be going through as we work on this. Hopefully in two weeks I'll have it back on the road - where it belongs! I will keep the list updated on the status! Thanks again, and Happy Easter to everyone!!! - Mark -- Mark Wise Raleigh, NC markwisenc at gmail.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 2 10:48:18 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 12:48:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] searching Message-ID: hi, all. sorry for this interruption . . . someone sent out a link to a site that searches other for sale kinds of sites and puts it together so you can search craigslist, ebay, autotrader, etc all at once. anyone know what that is? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 10:54:07 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 12:54:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA In-Reply-To: <7228C2A0AF074D978C84899D1DECE98B@TOMPC> References: <7228C2A0AF074D978C84899D1DECE98B@TOMPC> Message-ID: <347EF0F5-FCD3-45AE-8FC1-77229FEF5F72@gmail.com> Are you running on all cylinders? I remember having that problem shortly after I had adjusted the valves. Turns out, one worked it's way loose and so stayed closed. I remember it was cylinder 2, but I don't remember whether it was intake or exhaust. I managed to limp it hope about 13 miles. Avoiding highways. On Apr 2, 2010, at 11:34 AM, Tom Gunderson wrote: > My car will start and drive. I can't get any speed when I get on the road. I > may not be able to do 20 mph. I live in Edgemoor, SC. and there is a shop > about 8-10 miles away. I don't feel good on the highway that slow. > Tom > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Fri Apr 2 12:24:41 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:24:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] searching In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB64479.5090106@justbrits.com> << anyone know what that is? >> No, but of course I USE the Archives, Oliver. Dat's what they are for. Ed From Aeseeyou at aol.com Fri Apr 2 13:08:37 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:08:37 EDT Subject: [Mgs] tow an MGA Message-ID: <92f00.5eb1d316.38e7a8c5@aol.com> In a message dated 4/2/2010 10:34:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, _thgun at comporium.net_ (mailto:thgun at comporium.net) writes: My car will start and drive. I can't get any speed when I get on the road. I may not be able to do 20 mph. I live in Edgemoor, SC. and there is a shop about 8-10 miles away. I don't feel good on the highway that slow. Tom Could you have a fried clutch? When you start your car will it rev up and return to a normal idle? But you can't seem to get any speed going as it just sort goes Blah...? when hyou get out on the road? Alberto Escalante From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 2 12:55:16 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 12:55:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] searching In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I am guessing you mean jaxed.com: http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?cat=cp on 4/2/10 10:48 AM, oliver at sumton at sbcglobal.net wrote: > hi, all. sorry for this interruption . . . > > someone sent out a link to a site that searches other for sale kinds of sites > and puts it together so you can search craigslist, ebay, autotrader, etc all > at once. > > anyone know what that is? > _______________________________________________ -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From cyberemp at comcast.net Fri Apr 2 14:37:06 2010 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:37:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] searching In-Reply-To: <2044541416.12026471270244221826.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <678042844.12026491270244226740.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Don. you want the mash. hit the link in the yellow stripe across the top of the jaxed page. I have wasted much time "browsing" that area. I don't know who listed it originally, or I'd give them credit. http://www.jaxed.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 2 17:20:38 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 17:20:38 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes Message-ID: I was on 880 in Oakland when it started raining. Switched on the wipers, and the passenger side blade assembly flew away. Switched off to avoid scratching the screen. Exited at Berkeley to remove arm. I think I recall a spare pair in my garage somewhere. Otherwise I'm thinking the early chrome ones were not available...? -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From ejrussell at mebtel.net Fri Apr 2 18:23:25 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:23:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] searching In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here's a site I check from time to time. I don't think it checks AutoTrader though. http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?cat=cp Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > someone sent out a link to a site that searches other for sale kinds of > sites > and puts it together so you can search craigslist, ebay, autotrader, etc > all > at once. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sat Apr 3 07:48:32 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 08:48:32 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC26@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I recently replaced wiper arms as well as chrome blade assemblies on my 64B restore so I know they are available from Moss or a Moss reseller, probably other vendors as well. Plus with the flying wiper blade possibility, it is always good to have spares. I had it happen a few times but only when the blade assembly accumulated ice. On my former daily driver 71BGT (lots of Montana winter driving), I drilled small holes through the arm and blade assembly and wired them to insure they didn't come free. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 6:21 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes I was on 880 in Oakland when it started raining. Switched on the wipers, and the passenger side blade assembly flew away. Switched off to avoid scratching the screen. Exited at Berkeley to remove arm. I think I recall a spare pair in my garage somewhere. Otherwise I'm thinking the early chrome ones were not available...? -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk Sat Apr 3 09:47:37 2010 From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 12:47:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] New MGA Register Holland website Message-ID: <9965827FD41D4B4981ED7E74F83967AB@RickPC> On the 1st of April 2010 (the MGA Register Holland has launched its new website. Why a new website? Our current website dates back to 1996, current technology creates new opportunities to collect and share information on MGAs in a more interactive and attractive way. Over the years, owners provided us with information on hundreds of MGAs. Our new website allows us to effectively present this information back to owners and enthusiasts. More over this new site allows us to share a collection of over 1600 pictures on 700 MGAs covering historic events, restoration milestones but also the last Sunday run. What we would like you to do? - Please have a look at our website and the information we hold on your car(s) under the "Register" and subsequent "My MGA" header. - Validate whether the information on our records is still accurate and correct where appropriate. - Finally we welcome you to upload a picture of your car! Please have a look at : http://www.mgaregister.nl ps/ If you have registered your with us already, you should have received an email with login details earlier this week. If not, may we kindly ask you to send us an email at (mgarh at mgaregister.nl) to get the login details instead of registering again. Rick (sent on behalf of Koen Struijk) Webmaster for: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr - The North American MGB Register http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil - North American Council of MG Registers http://www.mgcars.org.uk/amgcr - American MGC Register http://www.flamemini.net - Florida mini Enthusiasts http://www.britishcarclub.net - Nature Coast English Car Club and The Suncoast Classic MG Club From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Apr 3 10:03:38 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 10:03:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <348511.87343.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Oh man that brings to mind the time I was heading back to NJ from visiting family in Boston, in a wicked pissa snow and ice storm. I stopped to de-ice the wiper blades in my Audi, and the passenger's side blade came off in my hand. Took me about 30 minutes in 20 degree weather with a howling wind and ice pelting down to re-attach it.... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Max Heim To: MG List Sent: Fri, April 2, 2010 8:20:38 PM Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes I was on 880 in Oakland when it started raining. Switched on the wipers, and the passenger side blade assembly flew away. Switched off to avoid scratching the screen. Exited at Berkeley to remove arm. I think I recall a spare pair in my garage somewhere. Otherwise I'm thinking the early chrome ones were not available...? -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From rocknatural at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 10:08:14 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 12:08:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB775FE.9000504@gmail.com> Max Heim wrote: > I was on 880 in Oakland when it started raining. Switched on the wipers, and > the passenger side blade assembly flew away. Switched off to avoid > scratching the screen. Exited at Berkeley to remove arm. > > I think I recall a spare pair in my garage somewhere. Otherwise I'm thinking > the early chrome ones were not available...? I would be going back to try to find it. -Rocky Frisco -- From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 3 10:36:57 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 10:36:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes In-Reply-To: <4BB775FE.9000504@gmail.com> Message-ID: Yeah, right . Elevated freeway in downtown Oakland, 3 lanes, no shoulders, 24 hour traffic. This was morning rush, so it was probably a twisted flattened ruin within 30 seconds of ejecting, anyway. Unless it wound up stuck though someone's grill like an arrow... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/3/10 10:08 AM, The Roxter at rocknatural at gmail.com wrote: > Max Heim wrote: >> I was on 880 in Oakland when it started raining. Switched on the wipers, and >> the passenger side blade assembly flew away. Switched off to avoid >> scratching the screen. Exited at Berkeley to remove arm. >> >> I think I recall a spare pair in my garage somewhere. Otherwise I'm thinking >> the early chrome ones were not available...? > I would be going back to try to find it. > > -Rocky Frisco > -- From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 10:55:02 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 12:55:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! Message-ID: Here's some good news. John said it came out on the mgb-experience. I'm surprised it didn't make it to our lists. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHSGxCnezmw&feature=digest From rocknatural at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 12:35:00 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 14:35:00 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB79864.5020304@gmail.com> Max Heim wrote: > Yeah, right . Elevated freeway in downtown Oakland, 3 lanes, no > shoulders, 24 hour traffic. > > This was morning rush, so it was probably a twisted flattened ruin within 30 > seconds of ejecting, anyway. Unless it wound up stuck though someone's grill > like an arrow... Ick! I remember driving there once. Chances are it left the roadway. Look for newspaper articles about pedestrians skewered by wiper blades below the freeway. -Rocky Frisco -- From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 3 16:16:47 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 17:16:47 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> I sometimes wonder just how many folks who claim English as their primary language could do this correctly: Put these three words into the appropriate blanks of the given sentence: their there they're _____ over ____ with ____ stuff. Sorry to be an unrelenting member of the grammar police, heaven knows I have more serious Team.Net stuff that needs attention. Maybe I'm just grumpy because as Spring rolls into the Northern Hemisphere with its warming weather I still don't have an LBC to drive! mjb. PS: Anyone up for a lecture on "its" vs. "it's" ? From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 3 18:30:38 2010 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 20:30:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4BB7EBBE.2050208@sbcglobal.net> Very good Mark. Many don't seem to know the difference in homophones. They will be embarrassed to learn that my wife whose native and primary language is German easily completed this exercise correctly on her first try. Charles Hill Mark J Bradakis wrote: > I sometimes wonder just how many folks who claim English > as their primary language could do this correctly: > > Put these three words into the appropriate blanks of the given > sentence: > > their there they're > > _____ over ____ with ____ stuff. > > > Sorry to be an unrelenting member of the grammar > police, heaven knows I have more serious Team.Net stuff > that needs attention. Maybe I'm just grumpy because as > Spring rolls into the Northern Hemisphere with its > warming weather I still don't have an LBC to drive! > > mjb. > > PS: Anyone up for a lecture on "its" vs. "it's" ? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 19:34:18 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 21:34:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <4BB7EBBE.2050208@sbcglobal.net> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> <4BB7EBBE.2050208@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> Did I start this? Opps, I'm usually careful on these things. I'm going use the excuse of typing faster than I was thinking, or thinking of the next thing instead of what I was typing. The sun was in my eyes.... I had a flat tire.... I lost my car keys.... I was distracted by my 15 year old with his learners permit... I do know the difference, really. :-) On Apr 3, 2010, at 8:30 PM, Charles Hill wrote: > Very good Mark. > Many don't seem to know the difference in homophones. They will be embarrassed to learn that my wife whose native and primary language is German easily completed this exercise correctly on her first try. > > Charles Hill > > Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> I sometimes wonder just how many folks who claim English >> as their primary language could do this correctly: >> >> Put these three words into the appropriate blanks of the given >> sentence: >> >> their there they're >> >> _____ over ____ with ____ stuff. >> >> >> Sorry to be an unrelenting member of the grammar >> police, heaven knows I have more serious Team.Net stuff >> that needs attention. Maybe I'm just grumpy because as >> Spring rolls into the Northern Hemisphere with its >> warming weather I still don't have an LBC to drive! >> >> mjb. >> >> PS: Anyone up for a lecture on "its" vs. "it's" ? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From Aeseeyou at aol.com Sat Apr 3 20:01:17 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 23:01:17 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! Message-ID: <3023c.2d785a49.38e95afd@aol.com> Duhhh, Maybe they meant to say "Their boot...?" just kidding...just kidding! But I had a heck of a time reading in the MGexperience "How to successfully take down and fold your MG hood" (bonnet) But I keep wondering how on Earth will I be able to straighten it out to put it (The bonnet) back on again? I mean back then being used to American terminology and all, to me a Bonnet was what went over the head as in "Amish" headwear, etc. And a Hood was either a Gangster or the part that covered your motor! And a Boot well those were what cowboys and workers wore on their feet now they're trying to tell me its the English word for the trunk. So you see there are a lot of differences in their names for car parts, so either they're right and I'm wrong just too dumb to know it, no? Awww, to heck with the whole thing..I just didn't want to drive around with a big hole exposing my motor.... Alberto Escalante......"Living La Vida Loca!" over on the Left Coast 1977 MGB From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 3 21:02:38 2010 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 23:02:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> <4BB7EBBE.2050208@sbcglobal.net> <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BB80F5E.7030407@sbcglobal.net> Homonym usage is one thing. Even the best of us can slip up and misuse them. What I can't understand is why some people insist on using apostrophes on plurals. Charles Hill From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 3 21:52:45 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 22:52:45 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> <4BB7EBBE.2050208@sbcglobal.net> <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BB81B1D.5000404@bradakis.com> Paul Root wrote: > Did I start this? Opps, I'm usually careful on these things. > > Don't worry too much, just having a little fun at your expense. When it comes to simple typical graphic arrows, eye duet all the thyme. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 3 22:03:11 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 23:03:11 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> <4BB7EBBE.2050208@sbcglobal.net> <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BB81D8F.2030005@bradakis.com> Paul Root wrote: > Did I start this? Opps, I'm usually careful on these things. > > > The sun was in my eyes.... > > [...] > I was distracted by my 15 year old with his learners permit... > > Oh, so you meant to say the *son* was in your eyes. Geez, Mark, step away from the keyboard before you hurt yourself. Happy Easter, folks, for those who celebrate it. And a big Thanks to those who contributed based on my "Fools and Funding" message. I'll eventually get around to sending out individual thanks. I've been blessed with a fair number of such tasks. mjb. From palte at gmx.net Sat Apr 3 23:52:48 2010 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 08:52:48 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Showing off In-Reply-To: <3023c.2d785a49.38e95afd@aol.com> References: <3023c.2d785a49.38e95afd@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100404065248.23040@gmx.net> Alberto wrote: I just didn't want to drive around with a big > hole exposing my motor.... You really don't? I remember seeing, at least at one occasion, a car at a motor show with a transparent bonnet(hood) so that you could see the engine clearly. Reminds me of a French song that was popular when I was a little kid in the sixties. It was about a snob, who had turned his television set the other way around in his living room. That was because the back side looked so much more interesting than the front side... Bert -- GMX.at - Vsterreichs FreeMail-Dienst mit |ber 2 Mio Mitgliedern E-Mail, SMS & mehr! Kostenlos: http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/atfreemail From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 06:11:51 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 07:11:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <4BB81B1D.5000404@bradakis.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> <4BB7EBBE.2050208@sbcglobal.net> <8BBC3770-D37C-40FC-B93A-CF6A901B975F@gmail.com> <4BB81B1D.5000404@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <97984E93-1E6D-4B7C-A9D9-C823907C8BBA@gmail.com> The funniest part was that I took your quiz and moved on. It wasn't until Charles had replied that I realized that I'd made the mistake in the first place. :-) On Apr 3, 2010, at 11:52 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Paul Root wrote: >> Did I start this? Opps, I'm usually careful on these things. >> >> > > Don't worry too much, just having a little fun at your expense. > When it comes to simple typical graphic arrows, eye duet all > the thyme. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sun Apr 4 10:14:58 2010 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:14:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - Vernon BC - $2, 500 Message-ID: <6821615.1270397699103.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> submitted by John Voelcker Hey Gang. Here is a rare one that should not be hard to get up and running - Very rare in the US - this one is in Canada. Kind of a British Buick - fun for the whole family - uses the same engine as an Austin Healey 100/six...... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BritCarTalk/attachments/folder/1428163782/item/853065647/view Best, Rick Feibusch BritishCarNetwork Venice, California From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sun Apr 4 12:57:01 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:57:01 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] More seatbelt questions Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I am working on the seats/interior of my 64B. But I need to plan in the seat belt install before I get too far. Currently, floor boards have been repaired and I am starting on the carpet installation with seats to follow. It looks like the 64B has the usual two point mounts but there appears to be additional mounting on the wheel well. Paul Hunt indicated that some Bs did have such a mount point location. Anyway, the pictures show where I am at which are on this webpage (pictures only): http://www.karamursel.org/mg/seatbelt.htm The top picture shows an eyebolt which is just in place loose (tunnel carpet hasn't been mounted yet) to show location. Bottom picture shows wheel well mounts. Middle picture shows hole which I have cleaned out now but is for a 7/16 fine thread bolt. I had thought all the early MGBs would use a two point seatbelt system, particularly with the shorter seats. Should I use a 3 point system since I have these wheel well bolt mounts (appear to be 5/16" bolts)? The Moss catalog shows two different seat belt designs (2 and 3 pt) with hardware. They show bolts and nuts - do these bolts fit in the pre-existing bolt holes? I like the eye-bolt setup but will go standard fixed bolts if they do not, just wondering if anyone has experience with the Moss seatbelt kits installing in the MGB. I haven't determine bolt hole size on the tunnel yet but will probably know in the next few hours. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From mg1948 at verizon.net Sun Apr 4 13:49:40 2010 From: mg1948 at verizon.net (Phil Marcell) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 13:49:40 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] More seatbelt questions References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <31974A01FC9F45B9BEC6F686F4188F62@Phil> Anyone out there have a extra seat bellt & roller for a 73 MGBGT? Phil ----- Original Message ----- From: "Councill, David" To: "MG List" ; Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 12:57 PM Subject: [Mgs] More seatbelt questions >I am working on the seats/interior of my 64B. But I need to plan in the > seat belt install before I get too far. Currently, floor boards have > been repaired and I am starting on the carpet installation with seats to > follow. It looks like the 64B has the usual two point mounts but there > appears to be additional mounting on the wheel well. Paul Hunt indicated > that some Bs did have such a mount point location. Anyway, the pictures > show where I am at which are on this webpage (pictures only): > > > > http://www.karamursel.org/mg/seatbelt.htm > > > > The top picture shows an eyebolt which is just in place loose (tunnel > carpet hasn't been mounted yet) to show location. Bottom picture shows > wheel well mounts. Middle picture shows hole which I have cleaned out > now but is for a 7/16 fine thread bolt. > > > > I had thought all the early MGBs would use a two point seatbelt system, > particularly with the shorter seats. Should I use a 3 point system since > I have these wheel well bolt mounts (appear to be 5/16" bolts)? The Moss > catalog shows two different seat belt designs (2 and 3 pt) with > hardware. They show bolts and nuts - do these bolts fit in the > pre-existing bolt holes? I like the eye-bolt setup but will go standard > fixed bolts if they do not, just wondering if anyone has experience with > the Moss seatbelt kits installing in the MGB. I haven't determine bolt > hole size on the tunnel yet but will probably know in the next few > hours. > > > > David Councill > > 64 B > > 67 BGT > > 72 B > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg1948 at verizon.net -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 261 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 4 14:27:16 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 13:27:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] More seatbelt questions In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: Hmm, my 66 B has the two studs shown in the bottom photo. They have always been neatly capped with chrome acorn nuts. I always supposed they may have been for the folding top mechanism (mine has a packaway top). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/4/10 11:57 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote: > I am working on the seats/interior of my 64B. But I need to plan in the > seat belt install before I get too far. Currently, floor boards have > been repaired and I am starting on the carpet installation with seats to > follow. It looks like the 64B has the usual two point mounts but there > appears to be additional mounting on the wheel well. Paul Hunt indicated > that some Bs did have such a mount point location. Anyway, the pictures > show where I am at which are on this webpage (pictures only): > > > > http://www.karamursel.org/mg/seatbelt.htm > > > > The top picture shows an eyebolt which is just in place loose (tunnel > carpet hasn't been mounted yet) to show location. Bottom picture shows > wheel well mounts. Middle picture shows hole which I have cleaned out > now but is for a 7/16 fine thread bolt. > > > > I had thought all the early MGBs would use a two point seatbelt system, > particularly with the shorter seats. Should I use a 3 point system since > I have these wheel well bolt mounts (appear to be 5/16" bolts)? The Moss > catalog shows two different seat belt designs (2 and 3 pt) with > hardware. They show bolts and nuts - do these bolts fit in the > pre-existing bolt holes? I like the eye-bolt setup but will go standard > fixed bolts if they do not, just wondering if anyone has experience with > the Moss seatbelt kits installing in the MGB. I haven't determine bolt > hole size on the tunnel yet but will probably know in the next few > hours. > > > > David Councill > > 64 B > > 67 BGT > > 72 B From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 4 14:52:37 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 13:52:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oops...there it goes In-Reply-To: <4BB79864.5020304@gmail.com> Message-ID: Turns out the wiper was only part one of a triple whammy. When I got home I was puzzled by an odd smell -- not exactly hot oil or burning insulation, but with hints of both. Opening the hood (or bonnet, if you prefer), I found that the oil cooler had sprung a leak. At any rate, there was a puddle around the base, and a semi-circular pattern of sprayed oil on the lower part of the radiator. But I didn't have time to deal with it at that moment. On Saturday, I thought I would try to address it. In order to see where the oil was coming from (the cooler core, the stem or fitting, or the hose), I thought I would start up the car. But turning the key had no effect (beyond a few ticks of the fuel pump). This escalating pattern of one problem leading to another was starting to look too familiar, but I was determined, so I hooked up the battery charger and set it to Engine Start. Still nothing. Beginning to suspect that something had come adrift in the starter area, I stuck my head underneath, and now I discovered the source of the electrical component of the nasty aroma (the oily component already having become apparent). Where the connector end of the starter solenoid should have been was only a charred and cracked fragment of ceramic, surrounded by dangling bare wires and congealed drips of insulation. [I should explain that this is a late model starter, fitted to my 4-synchro OD tranny). Something must have shorted out while I was last driving, because it was cold, and it had started up fine when I had left the gas station in Berkeley. I won't go into the hassles I had trying to remove the oil cooler, other to mention that I had only days earlier acquired a freebie used-but-clean example, that seemed to hold pressure when rigged to the shop vac, and that I subsequently installed. I also spent some time splicing the already multiply-spliced wiring, and attaching new terminals, in preparation for the arrival of a new starter. One good thing about this exercise was that it took place in my driveway. It wasn't really the sort of situation that could be resolved by the wayside. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/3/10 12:35 PM, The Roxter at rocknatural at gmail.com wrote: > Max Heim wrote: >> Yeah, right . Elevated freeway in downtown Oakland, 3 lanes, no >> shoulders, 24 hour traffic. >> >> This was morning rush, so it was probably a twisted flattened ruin within 30 >> seconds of ejecting, anyway. Unless it wound up stuck though someone's grill >> like an arrow... > Ick! I remember driving there once. Chances are it left the roadway. Look for > newspaper articles about pedestrians skewered by wiper blades below the > freeway. > > -Rocky Frisco > -- From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 5 02:59:44 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:59:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: Early cars would have had belts fitted by the dealer, so could be lap only or lap and diagonal. Clausager says 'probably lap' for North America, but 3-point for the UK so three points must have been there. My 64 Mini came with 3-points, but no belts (till my future father-in-law pointed out an ad for a set in the local paper). Tunnel and sill points should be factory, that eye-bolt should just be screwed in and can be discarded. The belts I have bought and fitted in the past have come with the stepped spacer to allow the belt-end to swivel when the bolt is tightened, and the correct bolts to fit those holes. Those two bolts in the third picture do sort of look as if they are supposed to be there, what is it like on the back of the panel? However no belt fitting I have ever seen mounts to two studs like that, I wouldn't want to rely on them till I knew what was on the back, that is if you could even get a belt today that would attach to them. I do remember eye-bolts for a belt-end with a quick-release spring-clip on other cars. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I had thought all the early MGBs would use a two point seatbelt system, > particularly with the shorter seats. Should I use a 3 point system since > I have these wheel well bolt mounts (appear to be 5/16" bolts)? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 5 03:04:43 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:04:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] More seatbelt questions References: Message-ID: <8EBC088D46884B458D69A60056866B6A@paul> The folding top always mounted at the same points as the pack-away, albeit being bolted directly to the top of the B-post rather than being slotted into a socket mounted at that point. The sockets were also used for tonneau sticks, and so the folding hood can have the sockets as well. Interesting that two cars seem to have them, implies factory, but could still be dealer or importer. ----- Original Message ----- > Hmm, my 66 B has the two studs shown in the bottom photo. They have always > been neatly capped with chrome acorn nuts. I always supposed they may have > been for the folding top mechanism (mine has a packaway top). From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 5 06:11:25 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 07:11:25 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions In-Reply-To: References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <466E151DB2974AA29FAD3E62608BD3F2@HomePC> My 67 Austin A60 Pickup has only a shoulder belt. NO lap belt. I've never seen that before. Larry Daniels -------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Hunt" Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:59 AM To: ; "MG List" Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions Early cars would have had belts fitted by the dealer, so could be lap only or lap and diagonal. Clausager says 'probably lap' for North America, but 3-point for the UK so three points must have been there. My 64 Mini came with 3-points, but no belts (till my future father-in-law pointed out an ad for a set in the local paper). Tunnel and sill points should be factory, that eye-bolt should just be screwed in and can be discarded. The belts I have bought and fitted in the past have come with the stepped spacer to allow the belt-end to swivel when the bolt is tightened, and the correct bolts to fit those holes. Those two bolts in the third picture do sort of look as if they are supposed to be there, what is it like on the back of the panel? However no belt fitting I have ever seen mounts to two studs like that, I wouldn't want to rely on them till I knew what was on the back, that is if you could even get a belt today that would attach to them. I do remember eye-bolts for a belt-end with a quick-release spring-clip on other cars. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I had thought all the early MGBs would use a two point seatbelt system, > particularly with the shorter seats. Should I use a 3 point system since > I have these wheel well bolt mounts (appear to be 5/16" bolts)? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 5 06:18:02 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 13:18:02 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <466E151DB2974AA29FAD3E62608BD3F2@HomePC> Message-ID: <4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul> Good grief! That sounds worse than lap only. ----- Original Message ----- > My 67 Austin A60 Pickup has only a shoulder belt. NO lap belt. I've > never > seen that before. From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 5 07:08:29 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:08:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions In-Reply-To: <4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <466E151DB2974AA29FAD3E62608BD3F2@HomePC> <4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul> Message-ID: Yes, I think originality is going to have to surrender to safety on that point. The problem is that their is no gap between the bench seat bottom and back to put the lap belt through, so I will have to get new upholstery to put in a 3-point belt system. And, then, as long as I'm doing that.... This has the makings of an expensive seat belt. Larry Daniels -------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Hunt" Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:18 AM To: "Larry Daniels" ; ; "MG List" Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions Good grief! That sounds worse than lap only. ----- Original Message ----- > My 67 Austin A60 Pickup has only a shoulder belt. NO lap belt. I've > never > seen that before. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 07:08:14 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:08:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions In-Reply-To: <4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <466E151DB2974AA29FAD3E62608BD3F2@HomePC> <4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul> Message-ID: <50D1CDC8-7D2C-457B-AFF5-E9D2433C9D33@gmail.com> Backin the days of the shoulder belt on a track, late 80s. Rumors spread that, the way the cars were designed with the submarine bolster, and that your knees would go into the bottom of the dash, and you'd be better off without the lap belt. I almost believed it back then, seems pretty stupid now. On Apr 5, 2010, at 7:18 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Good grief! That sounds worse than lap only. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> My 67 Austin A60 Pickup has only a shoulder belt. NO lap belt. I've >> never >> seen that before. From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Apr 5 08:32:05 2010 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 07:32:05 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Mgs] [Morris] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - Vernon BC - $2, 500 Message-ID: <19606300.1270477925847.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Readers, Here is a response from a fellow in New Zealand on that Morris Isis for sale that I posted - rarer than I thought. My friend Peter at Marina Motors does 5-speed conversions on Healeys using Toyota gearboxes that would be a great upgrade - I wonder what disc brakes could be fitted? Happy Hunting - A nice project for someone more ambitious than I.... Rick ******************************** >> Hey Gang. > >> Here is a rare one that should not be hard to get up and running - Very >> rare in the US - this one is in Canada. > >Ohhh! An Isis! >Apart from my '58 Isis and Andrew 'Axeman' Pursey in Australia (a '55 >Isis), this is the first Isis I recall seeing in morris at autox.team.net >Certainly rare worldwide from what I can gather. There were only 3,600 >made in the first place. > > >> Kind of a British Buick - fun >> for the whole family > >They are fun for all the family :-) >One 12 year old, and 2 car seats with a 22 month old and a 3.5 year old >fit into the back seat and can fit 3 across the front bench seat. My two >youngest ones love the Isis. > > >>- uses the same engine as an Austin Healey >> 100/six...... > >Yes indeed. Even with the standard cylinder head and 2639cc they can go >quite well. My Isis has Austin-Healey pistons, twin 1.5" SUs from a >Wolseley 6/99, electronic ignition and a slightly warm camshaft and goes >well enough to antagonise modern traffic if they deserve it. >Diesel people shifters going up hills belching black smoke struggling to >keep up so they can overtake. They deserve it ;-) > >Pity it is an automatic - the 4 speed floor change with gearlever between >driver's door and seat is a bit different! >I see that spare manual gearboxes (most probably 3-speed with overdrive) >are included along with a 3-litre twin SU engine from a '59 Westminster. > >28,002 miles. Unbelieveably low! Unless something is wrong, the power >train and steering box/linkages etc. should be in excellent order. > >There is a club for these cars: the UK based Morris Oxford, Cowley and >Isis club. They're very helpful, have a great magazine and hopefully a >working website soon. I can supply an email contact for the club. > >regards, >-- >Robert Greenfield >In NZ. > >
> >2.6 litre, ohv 6 cylinder engine, Borg Warner automatic > >Owned since 1994, previously same owner 35 years. 28,002 documented >miles. Not running. Stored inside. Complete. >Body solid, with a few dents and minor surface rust. Paint faded. >Interior tatty. > >Also included is the complete power train from a '59 Austin Westminster >(manual trans, ran well), plus two spare gearboxes, two cyl. heads and >some other spares. Need the storage space. $2500 for everything. > >-- >Robert Greenfield From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 08:40:43 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 07:40:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] More seatbelt questions In-Reply-To: References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: I have never seen a pre-68 B with anything by lap belts. My '67 (as well as my sister's) did not have the studs shown in the photo, but rather a captured nut inside a cone shaped steel cup that was welded higher up on the wheel well then the two studs shown. The cone part protruded though the factory carpet, so I am thinking it was factory at this point. I managed to get a set of 3 point Kangol belts from a '68 and they were a direct bolt in to my car. Hope this helps. rick On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 1:59 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Early cars would have had belts fitted by the dealer, so could be lap only > or lap and diagonal. Clausager says 'probably lap' for North America, but > 3-point for the UK so three points must have been there. My 64 Mini came > with 3-points, but no belts (till my future father-in-law pointed out an ad > for a set in the local paper). Tunnel and sill points should be factory, > that eye-bolt should just be screwed in and can be discarded. The belts I > have bought and fitted in the past have come with the stepped spacer to > allow the belt-end to swivel when the bolt is tightened, and the correct > bolts to fit those holes. Those two bolts in the third picture do sort of > look as if they are supposed to be there, what is it like on the back of the > panel? However no belt fitting I have ever seen mounts to two studs like > that, I wouldn't want to rely on them till I knew what was on the back, that > is if you could even get a belt today that would attach to them. I do > remember eye-bolts for a belt-end with a quick-release spring-clip on other > cars. > > PaulH. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> I had thought all the early MGBs would use a two point seatbelt system, >> particularly with the shorter seats. Should I use a 3 point system since >> I have these wheel well bolt mounts (appear to be 5/16" bolts)? >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 5 12:15:01 2010 From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 13:15:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Carpeting References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><466E151DB2974AA29FAD3E62608BD3F2@HomePC><4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul> Message-ID: <811091487CEC4911A6444871AA4D154B@DELL> Hi Guys, Starting to look at carpeting that needs to be replaced badly in my 1973 MGB roadster. The original color is Navy, but everyplace I look no one carries Navy carpeting. Any suggestions on color and where to find a good price? Thanks, Craig From steve at shoyer.com Mon Apr 5 18:20:27 2010 From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 20:20:27 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Carpeting In-Reply-To: <811091487CEC4911A6444871AA4D154B@DELL> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><466E151DB2974AA29FAD3E62608BD3F2@HomePC><4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul> <811091487CEC4911A6444871AA4D154B@DELL> Message-ID: Craig: You might try Prestige Autotrim (http://www.prestigeautotrim.com/usa/usa/carpets/mgb_carpets.htm). I have not ordered from them myself, but they have Navy listed on their website, and I've heard that other people have been happy with their products. --Steve (1980 MGB, needs entire interior replacement) -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Straub Subject: [Mgs] Carpeting ... 1973 MGB roadster. The original color is Navy, but everyplace I look no one carries Navy carpeting. Any suggestions on color and where to find a good price? ... From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 5 19:31:32 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 20:31:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Carpeting In-Reply-To: References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06D4DC37@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><466E151DB2974AA29FAD3E62608BD3F2@HomePC><4CFE555205844AB797ACA2EB8ACC7BF4@paul><811091487CEC4911A6444871AA4D154B@DELL> Message-ID: <449B1119B9924A0A82BFA3C3895ABC2D@ranteer.local> I ordered a top for my tr6 from prestige. it doesn't fit; the size is wrong, and I hate it. and, after spending $$ to have it professionally installed I can't return it because its been installed. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Steve Shoyer" Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:20 PM To: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Carpeting > Craig: > > You might try Prestige Autotrim > (http://www.prestigeautotrim.com/usa/usa/carpets/mgb_carpets.htm). I have > not ordered from them myself, but they have Navy listed on their website, > and I've heard that other people have been happy with their products. From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 6 18:33:37 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:33:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: ___ugeye/___rogeye Club..... help! Not LBC.] Message-ID: <4BBBD2E1.607@justbrits.com> Folks, below is a request from a pal of mine "Down Under" that is only on [poor chap -:) ] yahoogroups Lists. I AM totally jealous of the bike he is considering however he needs a "LBC Hand". Location is very close to Stockton, CA. Please write Colin direct but be so kind as to CC me. TIA !! Ed ************************************************************ -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... help! Not LBC............................. Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:32:31 +1000 From: Colin Dodds Reply-To: bugeye at yahoogroups.___ To: G'day guys I'm thinking of buying a bike and shipping it Down Under. A 1947 Indian Chief, since you asked. I need someone to look at the bike on my behalf, and tell me: a) it exists; b) it runs; and c) it is as described. The bike I'm currently looking at is in Manteca CA, and if I buy it I need to get it to Wilmington CA. Is there anyone near Manteca and willing to help? If so, I would really appreciate it. Please contact me Colin at SpriteParts.com.au . thanks, and avagoodday www.SpriteParts.com.au __,_._,___ From eric at erickson.on.net Tue Apr 6 19:04:14 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 10:34:14 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track Message-ID: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> For your edification and amusement.... finally back on track (yes, rusty as all heck). This was a morning practice session and boy did I need the practice: Enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEqETn_eT_4 From rshellen at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 19:14:38 2010 From: rshellen at comcast.net (E Ronald Shellenberger) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:14:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Carpet Message-ID: <40A1827DD5864E66B8C6352D8E6778AC@RSNB> When I did a Porsche 944, I tried all the suppliers for prices and ended up at a local upholster. He did it in the color I picked and installed it at a price less than any kits. try your local shops you may be suprised. Ron Shellenberger From ptrmgb at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 21:02:40 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:02:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <2B06D7E3-F71D-48F5-BF6D-B901299904C0@gmail.com> Looked pretty good there, Eric. On Apr 6, 2010, at 8:04 PM, Eric Erickson wrote: > For your edification and amusement.... finally back on track (yes, rusty as > all heck). > > This was a morning practice session and boy did I need the practice: > > Enjoy > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEqETn_eT_4 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From mjanacek at snet.net Tue Apr 6 23:32:41 2010 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 01:32:41 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> Good show Eric! What kind of speed can you carry, average and on the straights at your track? Mike Eric Erickson wrote: > For your edification and amusement.... finally back on track (yes, rusty as > all heck). > > This was a morning practice session and boy did I need the practice: > > Enjoy > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEqETn_eT_4 From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Apr 7 00:58:46 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:28:46 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> Message-ID: On 07/04/2010, at 3:02 PM, Mike Janacek wrote: > Good show Eric! What kind of speed can you carry, average and on the straights at your track? > Mike > As you can see, this track is all about braking and hairpin corners. The back "straight" (actually a banana bend) is the only place where we stretch out a bit and I get to about 100mph by the time I have to brake. A lot of the time we are hitting 60/70 mph before having to hit the brakes again. The place is tough on brakes. We have one event where we get LOTS of laps (it is a six-hour "teams" event) and last year I started losing my brakes on this track after 14 laps. By the time I got to 30 laps I needed two full pumps before I had any braking at all. Very cool. I now have Rover, four-pot front brakes with ventilated rotors - and I am using Motul high-temp fluid - so hopefully that will not happen this year. But trust me, most cars will have a soft or long brake pedal after those sort of laps out there! Thanks, From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Apr 7 03:01:08 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 18:31:08 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> Message-ID: On 07/04/2010, at 4:28 PM, Eric Erickson wrote: > On 07/04/2010, at 3:02 PM, Mike Janacek wrote: > >> Good show Eric! What kind of speed can you carry, average and on the > straights at your track? >> Mike >> > > > As you can see, this track is all about braking and hairpin corners. Sheesh - have you ever posted something to a list... and then read it back and wondered what you were on when you mailed it. But, carry on :-) From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Apr 7 06:07:29 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 05:07:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <853109.83266.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ________________________________ From: Eric Erickson To: MGList List Sent: Tue, April 6, 2010 9:04:14 PM Subject: [Mgs] Back on track For your edification and amusement.... finally back on track (yes, rusty as all heck). This was a morning practice session and boy did I need the practice: _______________________________________________ Not as much as the chaps in the yellow and red B's, Eric! Engine sounds very sweet. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Apr 7 07:12:23 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:42:23 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <853109.83266.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <853109.83266.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 07/04/2010, at 9:37 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > > > This was a morning practice session and boy did I need the practice: > > _______________________________________________ > > Not as much as the chaps in the yellow and red B's, Eric! Engine sounds very sweet. Mate, that yellow 'B actually beat me for fastest lap time later in the day (the guy has been racing but not for a while - he was rustier than I). I will open up discussion (with a new video) on the problems I had later in the day that stopped me getting any faster! Thanks, Eric From dbg.lists at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 08:52:31 2010 From: dbg.lists at gmail.com (Douglas Gaither) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 07:52:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild Message-ID: My daughter just bought her first car - a 1971 MGB-GT. The driver's side door cap was in terrible condition. Upon removal, the foam disintegrated. From my '66B rebuild, I remember that this was a very dense formed foam pad. Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, they do not sell just the padding. So my problem now is finding some suitable foam to rebuild the cap. Any idea's out there? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Apr 7 09:37:18 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:37:18 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild References: Message-ID: Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about $84. ----- Original Message ----- > ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... > > Any idea's out there? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 10:39:14 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 11:39:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed cell dense foam would work for this application. I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing place for less that $10. On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about $84. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... >> Any idea's out there? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 10:43:31 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 11:43:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> References: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <243CDC22-8A18-4CB8-A96F-E1CEA1824644@gmail.com> In fact, about the size you'd probably need from REI: http://www.rei.com/product/374113 On Apr 7, 2010, at 11:39 AM, Paul Root wrote: > So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? > > Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? > > I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed cell dense foam would work for this application. > > I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing place for less that $10. > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > >> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about $84. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... >>> Any idea's out there? >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From dbg.lists at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 10:48:51 2010 From: dbg.lists at gmail.com (Douglas Gaither) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:48:51 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> References: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> Message-ID: I purchased some suitable black vinyl from a fabric store. They did have foam but it was just a light open-cell that is not durable enough. I've also visited the local craft store, same story. I'll keep looking. On Apr 7, 2010, at 9:39 AM, Paul Root wrote: > So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? > > Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? > > I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed > cell dense foam would work for this application. > > I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing > place for less that $10. > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > >> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about >> $84. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... >>> Any idea's out there? >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From dbg.lists at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 10:50:11 2010 From: dbg.lists at gmail.com (Douglas Gaither) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:50:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1A5F27C0-209F-4A83-833A-950003120A79@gmail.com> It this price for the foam ONLY or are those complete caps? On Apr 7, 2010, at 8:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about $84. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... >> Any idea's out there? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 10:53:50 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 11:53:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BC68A04-04D4-425D-AF3E-C12AA6B28BF6@gmail.com> Or campmor has a full sheet for cheaper than REI's full sheet. Often the case. http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___41312 On Apr 7, 2010, at 11:48 AM, Douglas Gaither wrote: > I purchased some suitable black vinyl from a fabric store. They did have foam but it was just a light open-cell that is not durable enough. I've also visited the local craft store, same story. I'll keep looking. > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 9:39 AM, Paul Root wrote: > >> So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? >> >> Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? >> >> I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed cell dense foam would work for this application. >> >> I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing place for less that $10. >> >> >> On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: >> >>> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about $84. >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... >>>> Any idea's out there? >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From Aeseeyou at aol.com Wed Apr 7 11:20:22 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:20:22 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild Message-ID: <1a0b5.3032805f.38ee18d6@aol.com> In a message dated 4/7/2010 8:10:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, _dbg.lists at gmail.com_ (mailto:dbg.lists at gmail.com) writes: My daughter just bought her first car - a 1971 MGB-GT. The driver's side door cap was in terrible condition. Upon removal, the foam disintegrated. From my '66B rebuild, I remember that this was a very dense formed foam pad. Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, they do not sell just the padding. So my problem now is finding some suitable foam to rebuild the cap. Any idea's out there? ---------------------oOo--------------------------- Yes, Just go to a good auto upholstery shop or store. A large part of that $150 Moss Motors fee is overhead and administrative costs. Luckily this is one instance where you can just eliminate the middle man. I know because I did it on my 1977 MGB roadster. It's really a no-brainer. Unscrew the cap strip it being careful not to tear the covering. Strip off the old foam from metal frame underneath and spray or apply a good automotive adhesive on the refurbished metal cap frame and cover the properly applied adhesion with the foam you chose to replace the old stuff with. Then if its still usable recover the foam after the adhesive has properly dried with the cover material. Or let the upholsterer do it at a fee. Which will probably be much less than the Prefabricated parts from Moss. Moss is the best place to go for parts that can't be fixed or repaired by the individual as they are a business where the Customers satisfaction come first, in every respect. Alberto Escalante.....1977 MGB From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 7 11:24:59 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:24:59 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <77307BD40DBA4424A5F424DED48E8232@HomePC> My wife has an exercise mat that is, guessing from memory, maybe 1/4" to 3/8" thick. It is a blue dense closed-cell foam. You can get it in the sporting goods department of a department store like Wally World, etc. Larry Daniels -------------------------------------------------- From: "Douglas Gaither" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:48 AM To: "mg list" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild I purchased some suitable black vinyl from a fabric store. They did have foam but it was just a light open-cell that is not durable enough. I've also visited the local craft store, same story. I'll keep looking. On Apr 7, 2010, at 9:39 AM, Paul Root wrote: > So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? > > Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? > > I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed > cell dense foam would work for this application. > > I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing > place for less that $10. > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > >> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about >> $84. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... >>> Any idea's out there? >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From paul at ece.rochester.edu Wed Apr 7 11:27:54 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:27:54 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Doug, if you want to do it your self , send me an address and I will send you the foam enough to do both NC. Paul Paul's Canvas Shop Lima NY >My daughter just bought her first car - a 1971 MGB-GT. The driver's >side door cap was in terrible condition. Upon removal, the foam >disintegrated. From my '66B rebuild, I remember that this was a >very dense formed foam pad. Although Moss sells a complete cap for >$150, they do not sell just the padding. So my problem now is >finding some suitable foam to rebuild the cap. > >Any idea's out there? >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu From paul at ece.rochester.edu Wed Apr 7 11:30:28 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:30:28 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild Message-ID: Doug, if you want to do it your self , send me an address and I will send you the foam enough to do both NC. Or send them to me and will do both for $65.00 + postage. Paul Paul's Canvas Shop Lima NY >My daughter just bought her first car - a 1971 MGB-GT. The driver's >side door cap was in terrible condition. Upon removal, the foam >disintegrated. From my '66B rebuild, I remember that this was a >very dense formed foam pad. Although Moss sells a complete cap for >$150, they do not sell just the padding. So my problem now is >finding some suitable foam to rebuild the cap. > >Any idea's out there? >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Apr 7 12:10:51 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 03:40:51 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) In-Reply-To: <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> Message-ID: <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> Following on from my previous post, this video shows me up against a slightly more modern, more powerful MG - and not doing such a bad job (although modifying my lines like I thought I could outgun him out of the corners was not real smart). BUT my biggest issue that day came with the engine running out of fuel at critical moments. Stuttering and stumbling (yes, I have annotated the video to point out the obvious) in both third and fourth gear after a couple of laps. When I got off the track and popped the bonnet I immediately saw that the fuel-filter was empty. I pulled off the fuel line and started up the pump... and it pumped fuel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank (in fact, thinking I was low on fuel, I slightly over-filled it and it did exactly the same thing). There were two possibilities that came to mind (you may have others). 1. It was hot day (made worse by humidity) at 33C/91F+ - so I was thinking vapourisation/vapour-lock, but I have run in hotter weather and never suffered this issue before. 2. This engine is bigger than it has ever been at 1950cc with the same SU fuel pump as when she was 1840cc - could I need a higher capacity fuel pump? Any thoughts? How should I be measuring fuel flow at 5000+ revs (which is when she stuttered and stumbled)? And the video..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5w47B6QN4Q Thoughts? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 13:15:07 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:15:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) In-Reply-To: <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <16496B76-57B9-41CA-8644-07A39B0A1A6E@gmail.com> What is the head configuration and carbs? Even with better breathing, I don't think the pump would run out of fuel for 1 1/2" carbs. If you have a DCOE, then maybe. On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:10 PM, Eric Erickson wrote: > Following on from my previous post, this video shows me up against a slightly > more modern, more powerful MG - and not doing such a bad job (although > modifying my lines like I thought I could outgun him out of the corners was > not real smart). > > BUT my biggest issue that day came with the engine running out of fuel at > critical moments. Stuttering and stumbling (yes, I have annotated the video > to point out the obvious) in both third and fourth gear after a couple of > laps. > > When I got off the track and popped the bonnet I immediately saw that the > fuel-filter was empty. I pulled off the fuel line and started up the pump... > and it pumped fuel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank (in fact, thinking I > was low on fuel, I slightly over-filled it and it did exactly the same > thing). > > There were two possibilities that came to mind (you may have others). > > 1. It was hot day (made worse by humidity) at 33C/91F+ - so I was thinking > vapourisation/vapour-lock, but I have run in hotter weather and never suffered > this issue before. > > 2. This engine is bigger than it has ever been at 1950cc with the same SU > fuel pump as when she was 1840cc - could I need a higher capacity fuel pump? > > Any thoughts? How should I be measuring fuel flow at 5000+ revs (which is > when she stuttered and stumbled)? > > And the video..... > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5w47B6QN4Q > > > Thoughts? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 13:53:28 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:53:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) In-Reply-To: <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: So is that a ZS you were chasing? He's not a very good driver, or that car doesn't handle well. He certainly had horsepower on you though. If you could have gotten around him, just after the long straight, you probably could have gotten some decent separation on all the turns before the next lap. I think you want to find out the temperature under the hood. If it is very hot under there you could be getting vapor lock. But start at the Paul Hunt beginning, measure your flow from the fuel pump. The stutters didn't take place at (or just after) hard cornering, so I doubt it's starvation. But then what do I know? Do you have a baffled tank? It's not a fuel cell is it? It's amazing how little safety equipment you have compared to the SCCA here in the US. On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:10 PM, Eric Erickson wrote: > Following on from my previous post, this video shows me up against a slightly > more modern, more powerful MG - and not doing such a bad job (although > modifying my lines like I thought I could outgun him out of the corners was > not real smart). > > BUT my biggest issue that day came with the engine running out of fuel at > critical moments. Stuttering and stumbling (yes, I have annotated the video > to point out the obvious) in both third and fourth gear after a couple of > laps. > > When I got off the track and popped the bonnet I immediately saw that the > fuel-filter was empty. I pulled off the fuel line and started up the pump... > and it pumped fuel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank (in fact, thinking I > was low on fuel, I slightly over-filled it and it did exactly the same > thing). > > There were two possibilities that came to mind (you may have others). > > 1. It was hot day (made worse by humidity) at 33C/91F+ - so I was thinking > vapourisation/vapour-lock, but I have run in hotter weather and never suffered > this issue before. > > 2. This engine is bigger than it has ever been at 1950cc with the same SU > fuel pump as when she was 1840cc - could I need a higher capacity fuel pump? > > Any thoughts? How should I be measuring fuel flow at 5000+ revs (which is > when she stuttered and stumbled)? > > And the video..... > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5w47B6QN4Q > > > Thoughts? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From atweditor at aol.com Wed Apr 7 14:09:20 2010 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 16:09:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) In-Reply-To: <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net><4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <8CCA4A557FA123A-1254-102A@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> Eric, Nice driving. This may be too obvious, but how about collapsing fuel lines? Jay Donoghue 72 MGB-GT 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Eric Erickson To: MGList List Sent: Wed, Apr 7, 2010 2:10 pm Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) Following on from my previous post, this video shows me up against a slightly more modern, more powerful MG - and not doing such a bad job (although modifying my lines like I thought I could outgun him out of the corners was not real smart). BUT my biggest issue that day came with the engine running out of fuel at critical moments. Stuttering and stumbling (yes, I have annotated the video to point out the obvious) in both third and fourth gear after a couple of laps. When I got off the track and popped the bonnet I immediately saw that the fuel-filter was empty. I pulled off the fuel line and started up the pump... and it pumped fuel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank (in fact, thinking I was low on fuel, I slightly over-filled it and it did exactly the same thing). There were two possibilities that came to mind (you may have others). 1. It was hot day (made worse by humidity) at 33C/91F+ - so I was thinking vapourisation/vapour-lock, but I have run in hotter weather and never suffered this issue before. 2. This engine is bigger than it has ever been at 1950cc with the same SU fuel pump as when she was 1840cc - could I need a higher capacity fuel pump? Any thoughts? How should I be measuring fuel flow at 5000+ revs (which is when she stuttered and stumbled)? And the video..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5w47B6QN4Q Thoughts? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Wed Apr 7 14:16:18 2010 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:16:18 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net><4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <966E761A222A490D87E1C4047064214A@uw471de61b465c> Nice video! Some guesses: the fuel cap caused a vacuum in the tank - a neighbour had that once with his 1976 golf GTI. fuel pump intermediately malfunctioning - check electrical contacts there also maybe either diode or capacitor inside the fuel pump with a lose contact if the pump is a traditional one (SU) it still may suffer of burnt contacts, if so get these replaced or make them smooth again dirt in the fuel line near the pump Cheers, Hans 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Erickson" To: "MGList List" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:10 PM Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) > Following on from my previous post, this video shows me up against a > slightly > more modern, more powerful MG - and not doing such a bad job (although > modifying my lines like I thought I could outgun him out of the corners > was > not real smart). > > BUT my biggest issue that day came with the engine running out of fuel at > critical moments. Stuttering and stumbling (yes, I have annotated the > video > to point out the obvious) in both third and fourth gear after a couple of > laps. > > When I got off the track and popped the bonnet I immediately saw that the > fuel-filter was empty. I pulled off the fuel line and started up the > pump... > and it pumped fuel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank (in fact, > thinking I > was low on fuel, I slightly over-filled it and it did exactly the same > thing). > > There were two possibilities that came to mind (you may have others). > > 1. It was hot day (made worse by humidity) at 33C/91F+ - so I was > thinking > vapourisation/vapour-lock, but I have run in hotter weather and never > suffered > this issue before. > > 2. This engine is bigger than it has ever been at 1950cc with the same SU > fuel pump as when she was 1840cc - could I need a higher capacity fuel > pump? > > Any thoughts? How should I be measuring fuel flow at 5000+ revs (which is > when she stuttered and stumbled)? > > And the video..... > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5w47B6QN4Q > > > Thoughts? From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 7 14:28:30 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 13:28:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) In-Reply-To: <16496B76-57B9-41CA-8644-07A39B0A1A6E@gmail.com> Message-ID: But it could be not delivering its full rated flow. Mine was failing to keep a stock 1798 supplied at 3500rpm. You don't have to run the engine at 5000rpm to check fuel flow. The pump isn't RPM sensitive. Just disconnect the fuel line and aim it into a bucket, turn the key, and check your watch. I don't remember the exact spec volume, but it should deliver at least a pint per minute. Mine was shutting itself off after about 6 ounces or 20 seconds, which was a "fail". -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/7/10 12:15 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote: > What is the head configuration and carbs? > > Even with better breathing, I don't think the pump would run out of fuel for 1 > 1/2" carbs. > If you have a DCOE, then maybe. > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 1:10 PM, Eric Erickson wrote: > >> Following on from my previous post, this video shows me up against a > slightly >> more modern, more powerful MG - and not doing such a bad job (although >> modifying my lines like I thought I could outgun him out of the corners was >> not real smart). >> >> BUT my biggest issue that day came with the engine running out of fuel at >> critical moments. Stuttering and stumbling (yes, I have annotated the > video >> to point out the obvious) in both third and fourth gear after a couple of >> laps. >> >> When I got off the track and popped the bonnet I immediately saw that the >> fuel-filter was empty. I pulled off the fuel line and started up the > pump... >> and it pumped fuel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank (in fact, thinking > I >> was low on fuel, I slightly over-filled it and it did exactly the same >> thing). >> >> There were two possibilities that came to mind (you may have others). >> >> 1. It was hot day (made worse by humidity) at 33C/91F+ - so I was thinking >> vapourisation/vapour-lock, but I have run in hotter weather and never > suffered >> this issue before. >> >> 2. This engine is bigger than it has ever been at 1950cc with the same SU >> fuel pump as when she was 1840cc - could I need a higher capacity fuel > pump? >> >> Any thoughts? How should I be measuring fuel flow at 5000+ revs (which is >> when she stuttered and stumbled)? >> >> And the video..... >> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5w47B6QN4Q >> >> >> Thoughts? From mike at sportscarslimited.net Wed Apr 7 15:21:41 2010 From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:21:41 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) In-Reply-To: <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net><4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net> <8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <916D603577C649EAB0CED39127DF0448@scloffice> You might try to install a fuel pressure guage. That way you could look at the guage when the situation occurs and see if you have fuel pressure. To state the obvious, if pressure falls at speed, look at the pump, pickup, lines, etc. If the pressure is good at the failure point, look at the carb(s). Mike Michael Singleton Sportscars Ltd 10170 Croydon Way Suite M Sacramento, CA 95826 (916)366-0330 mike at sportscarslimited.net -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Erickson Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:11 AM To: MGList List Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) Following on from my previous post, this video shows me up against a slightly more modern, more powerful MG - and not doing such a bad job (although modifying my lines like I thought I could outgun him out of the corners was not real smart). BUT my biggest issue that day came with the engine running out of fuel at critical moments. Stuttering and stumbling (yes, I have annotated the video to point out the obvious) in both third and fourth gear after a couple of laps. When I got off the track and popped the bonnet I immediately saw that the fuel-filter was empty. I pulled off the fuel line and started up the pump... and it pumped fuel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank (in fact, thinking I was low on fuel, I slightly over-filled it and it did exactly the same thing). There were two possibilities that came to mind (you may have others). 1. It was hot day (made worse by humidity) at 33C/91F+ - so I was thinking vapourisation/vapour-lock, but I have run in hotter weather and never suffered this issue before. 2. This engine is bigger than it has ever been at 1950cc with the same SU fuel pump as when she was 1840cc - could I need a higher capacity fuel pump? Any thoughts? How should I be measuring fuel flow at 5000+ revs (which is when she stuttered and stumbled)? And the video..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5w47B6QN4Q Thoughts? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike at sportscarslimited.net From atweditor at aol.com Thu Apr 8 09:06:23 2010 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 11:06:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <8CCA5442FBE8F99-D54-3AE2@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> Eric, You seem to be going much faster than all the other kiddies out there. Also, much faster than any "B" I've ever been in. Jay Donoghue 72 B-GT 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Eric Erickson To: MGList List Sent: Tue, Apr 6, 2010 9:04 pm Subject: [Mgs] Back on track For your edification and amusement.... finally back on track (yes, rusty as all heck). This was a morning practice session and boy did I need the practice: Enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEqETn_eT_4 _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com From eric at erickson.on.net Thu Apr 8 09:19:40 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 00:49:40 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <8CCA5442FBE8F99-D54-3AE2@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <8CCA5442FBE8F99-D54-3AE2@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1F874440-77F1-467B-9513-68CAB3762850@erickson.on.net> On 09/04/2010, at 12:36 AM, atweditor at aol.com wrote: > > Eric, > > You seem to be going much faster than all the other kiddies out there. Also, much faster than any "B" I've ever been in. > Thanks Jay - but I should have been going a bit faster :-) Remember, this was a MGCC National Meeting - some of those people probably rarely take their cars onto a race track. Some would never have driven on that racetrack. Apart from the past year, I have driven there for ten years. I should be fairly comfortable on that tarmac! Oh yeah - and some of those might be pretty fast street machines but they are set up for comfortable commuting. Mine stopped being a "cvomfortable commuter" some years ago. I just don't want anyone to think I was being that spectacular. Eric From atweditor at aol.com Thu Apr 8 09:43:12 2010 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 11:43:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <1F874440-77F1-467B-9513-68CAB3762850@erickson.on.net> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <8CCA5442FBE8F99-D54-3AE2@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> <1F874440-77F1-467B-9513-68CAB3762850@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <8CCA54954C47BE1-D54-4423@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> Eric, Yeah, I suspected you of "cheating," in terms of having your car actually set up and maintained for the track and having....skills. No fair. Cheers -----Original Message----- From: Eric Erickson To: atweditor at aol.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 11:19 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back on track On 09/04/2010, at 12:36 AM, atweditor at aol.com wrote: Eric, You seem to be going much faster than all the other kiddies out there. Also, much faster than any "B" I've ever been in. Thanks Jay - but I should have been going a bit faster :-) Remember, this was a MGCC National Meeting - some of those people probably rarely take their cars onto a race track. Some would never have driven on that racetrack. Apart from the past year, I have driven there for ten years. I should be fairly comfortable on that tarmac! Oh yeah - and some of those might be pretty fast street machines but they are set up for comfortable commuting. Mine stopped being a "cvomfortable commuter" some years ago. I just don't want anyone to think I was being that spectacular. Eric From eric at erickson.on.net Thu Apr 8 10:19:16 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 01:49:16 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <8CCA54954C47BE1-D54-4423@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <8CCA5442FBE8F99-D54-3AE2@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> <1F874440-77F1-467B-9513-68CAB3762850@erickson.on.net> <8CCA54954C47BE1-D54-4423@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <58B88DA6-3143-41B3-8D72-EB7483837B48@erickson.on.net> On 09/04/2010, at 1:13 AM, atweditor at aol.com wrote: > Eric, > > Yeah, I suspected you of "cheating," in terms of having your car actually set up and maintained for the track and having....skills. No fair. > Darn... sprung! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Apr 8 10:27:37 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:27:37 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track (Part 2 - fuel starvation) References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net><4BBC18F9.6000502@snet.net><8940A7A8-CB59-4662-BD3B-44493216D24B@erickson.on.net> <916D603577C649EAB0CED39127DF0448@scloffice> Message-ID: How much pressure is in fuel injection lines with an open return to the tank? ----- Original Message ----- > You might try to install a fuel pressure guage. That way you could look at > the guage when the situation occurs and see if you have fuel pressure. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Apr 8 10:25:45 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:25:45 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild References: <1A5F27C0-209F-4A83-833A-950003120A79@gmail.com> Message-ID: Complete caps, that's my point. Unless the vinyl is usable, or identical, you are going to end up with two different ones, and even then if you stuff them with non-standard foams you are going to have to be very careful to get a match. ----- Original Message ----- > It this price for the foam ONLY or are those complete caps? > >> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about $84. From shop at justbrits.com Thu Apr 8 13:32:01 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 14:32:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Back on track In-Reply-To: <8CCA54954C47BE1-D54-4423@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> References: <2870BA79-86F0-4940-A665-E7F08B9EF851@erickson.on.net> <8CCA5442FBE8F99-D54-3AE2@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> <1F874440-77F1-467B-9513-68CAB3762850@erickson.on.net> <8CCA54954C47BE1-D54-4423@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BBE2F31.8060705@justbrits.com> Hey Eric, mate...... << Yeah, I suspected you of "cheating," in terms of having your car actually set up and maintained for the track and having.... >> me thinks it is now PAST time for you to provide all these SHORT-TERM MEMORY chaps with the link to your car's web site !!!!!! Especially since, in her "new form" she is just plain BEAUTIFUL -:)-:)-:) !!!!!! Ed From daybell7 at aol.com Fri Apr 9 10:28:18 2010 From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 12:28:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Question Message-ID: <8CCA618CBE4D359-DAC-11F24@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> MG'ers, I have a SU fuel pump that will click repeatedly if I apply power in a rapid fashion, but will not click at all if I hold a jump wire to the ground terminal. I cleaned the points after the car sat, so I suspect fuel contamination. I am tempted to install an electric fuel pump. Thanks in advance. Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 9 11:50:17 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 10:50:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Question In-Reply-To: <8CCA618CBE4D359-DAC-11F24@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Why would fuel contamination cause the pump not to function? >From your description, it is not clear if the pump is installed on the car or not; and if so, if the fuel line is connected to the carburetor. An SU is an electric fuel pump. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/9/10 9:28 AM, daybell7 at aol.com at daybell7 at aol.com wrote: > MG'ers, > > I have a SU fuel pump that will click repeatedly if I apply power in a rapid > fashion, but will not click at all if I hold a jump wire to the ground > terminal. I cleaned the points after the car sat, so I suspect fuel > contamination. > > I am tempted to install an electric fuel pump. > > Thanks in advance. > > Steve Hughes > Gainesville, FL From frankk12 at verizon.net Fri Apr 9 13:59:58 2010 From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 15:59:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Unlatching Hood/Bonnet Message-ID: A friend of mine just contacted me with a problem that I haven't encountered yet on my own cars. The hood latch cable has evidently broken and pulled right out of its mounting spot. What is the best way to open the hood now? Is it possible to reach through the rubber bumper grille opening and unlatch it? If I recall there is a screen in the way, at least there is in my 1980 LE. Any suggestions? I haven't seen it yet so don't know how bad it is. Frank Krajewski From mark at bradakis.com Fri Apr 9 19:18:27 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 19:18:27 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Question In-Reply-To: <8CCA618CBE4D359-DAC-11F24@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCA618CBE4D359-DAC-11F24@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BBFD1E3.3020105@bradakis.com> > I am tempted to install an electric fuel pump. > > So the SU is not electric? Sorry, I couldn't resist. We now return you to your regularly scheduled email list. mjb. From riverside at southslope.net Fri Apr 9 22:05:35 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:05:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Unlatching Hood/Bonnet References: Message-ID: <000601cad863$129e5a10$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> It is possible to insert a long screwdriver or rod through the mesh and release the latch, it is just had to see where it is located. Using a flashlight and pushing down on the bonnet (hood) to relive presure on the latch helps. Ron Sanborn ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "MG List" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 2:59 PM Subject: [Mgs] Unlatching Hood/Bonnet >A friend of mine just contacted me with a problem that I haven't >encountered > yet on my own cars. The hood latch cable has evidently broken and pulled > right > out of its mounting spot. What is the best way to open the hood now? Is it > possible to reach through the rubber bumper grille opening and unlatch it? > If > I recall there is a screen in the way, at least there is in my 1980 LE. > Any > suggestions? I haven't seen it yet so don't know how bad it is. > Frank Krajewski > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net From daybell7 at aol.com Sat Apr 10 04:55:13 2010 From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:55:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Question Message-ID: <8CCA6B36E923AAA-272C-EE79@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> >From your description, it is not clear if the pump is installed on the car or not; and if so, if the fuel line is connected to the carburetor. Thanks for the response. Let me clarify: The car sat for a year or so and once I drove it a few miles, the pump stopped. I drained the gas tank and saw rust particles. I took the pump off and on the bench without a fuel feed the pump clicks once. Does the pump need primed for it to pump fuel? I did clean the points. My question is: Given the reliability and relative expense of an after market fuel pump, and the collective experience of the MG list experts: Should I just install a NAPA fuel pump? Thanks again, Steve H. Gainesville, FL From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Apr 10 08:09:36 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:09:36 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Question References: <8CCA618CBE4D359-DAC-11F24@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8A86704C216B406AA30B7BB1AAC86709@paul> Where are you applying power and ground when it "will click repeatedly if I apply power in a rapid fashion"? Where are you applying 12v and ground when it doesn't click at all? If it clicks *once* when you apply power and ground to the 12v and ground spades, then the points are stuck together, either welded or maladjusted. If you can lift them apart, it is probably adjustment. If the points are pitted and spiked the spike needs flatting and both faces burnishing, then the adjustment (the 'throw' of the points when the diaphragm is manually operated) needs to be checked. It's nothing to do with fuel (unless it has turned to treacle). The pump doesn't need to be primed. With the points correctly cleaned and adjusted the SU pump will operate perfectly for many many years and tens of thousands of miles, which is why probably the majority still have them. The points started sticking on my roadster giving the 'clicks once' symptom you seem to have. I had a new spare and fitted that by the roadside, then cleaned and adjusted the points at my leisure. Then the aftermarket pointless electronic pump on my other MGB started playing up intermittently, so I put the old pump on that and it has been working without a problem every since (some years now). PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I have a SU fuel pump that will click repeatedly if I apply power in a > rapid > fashion, but will not click at all if I hold a jump wire to the ground > terminal. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Apr 10 08:04:16 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:04:16 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Unlatching Hood/Bonnet References: Message-ID: See http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/bl.htm ----- Original Message ----- >A friend of mine just contacted me with a problem that I haven't >encountered > yet on my own cars. The hood latch cable has evidently broken and pulled > right > out of its mounting spot. What is the best way to open the hood now? From guinness at stclegal.com Sat Apr 10 12:52:30 2010 From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:52:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 1600 rear light intermittent short Message-ID: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> The passenger rear running light intermittently goes on by itself on my MGA 1600. This is the lower bulb that is also used as a brake light. It happens most often after I have turned my back on the car and closed the garage door, only to come back later to see it on. Any advice on what and where the likely culprits are, and how to diagnosis this short. Thank you. -- Robert Guinness From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 17:56:33 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:56:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Pump Message-ID: I am a big fan of the aftermarket pump. Not knowing the real history of my cars I always added a switched cube pump to the gas line. When the inevitable happened all I had to do was flip a switch. In a fit of belt and suspenders I replaced the defective SUs with another cube pump. Not really necessary, but I won't be stopped by a defective pump. Be sure you get the low pressure version, about three lbs. This may be a reaction to the time I nearly got stranded on a rural road in an XK140. Knowing that the pump was under the passenger side door I had my wife slam her door every time the car faltered. When we got to our destination I had the pump replaced with a Bendix electric. Jack 72 MGB 69 MGC 60 Healey 3000. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sat Apr 10 19:16:41 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:16:41 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Question In-Reply-To: <8CCA6B36E923AAA-272C-EE79@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCA6B36E923AAA-272C-EE79@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CBF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Personally, I would stick with the SU fuel pump, repaired or replaced. It may be quite a bit more expensive but they tend to be very reliable, lasting through decades of service. Internal parts are readily available and cheap allowing for them to be rebuilt rather than replaced (although I opted to replace my last one). And they are quiet and turn off when the lines reach pressure (float bowls are full). I had the cube one on one B - it was noisy and pumped continuously even when the floats cut off the flow. It lasted just a few years, to be replaced by a SU. Plus you have to make sure it's a low pressure model or install an additional pressure regulator to keep pressure below 4 (psi?). If cost is the major factor, the cube model may be good but in the long term (10+ years), I think the SU would end up cheaper. David -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of daybell7 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 4:55 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Question >From your description, it is not clear if the pump is installed on the car or not; and if so, if the fuel line is connected to the carburetor. Thanks for the response. Let me clarify: The car sat for a year or so and once I drove it a few miles, the pump stopped. I drained the gas tank and saw rust particles. I took the pump off and on the bench without a fuel feed the pump clicks once. Does the pump need primed for it to pump fuel? I did clean the points. My question is: Given the reliability and relative expense of an after market fuel pump, and the collective experience of the MG list experts: Should I just install a NAPA fuel pump? Thanks again, Steve H. Gainesville, FL From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sun Apr 11 05:06:22 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 06:06:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 1600 rear light intermittent short In-Reply-To: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> Message-ID: <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This sounds really wierd, but I'll take a shot at it. First, if something lights up it is not a short to ground, but some errant connection (or short) to power on the input side of the lamp. On the 1600 the turn signals are independent from the brake lights. Parking lamps are connected in parallell, and ditto for brake lamps, so if one lights up the other should light up along with it. Having only one light up rather implies that it is a turn signal circuit. So my first guess is that you have something miswired so a turn signal wire is connected to the bulb for the parking lamp and brake light. But that still does not explain power for light when everything should be shut off and dead. When ignition is off, battery power should be connected only to the horn and to the lighting switch, no power to the turn signal circuit. The idea that the light comes on later, some significant amount of time after switch off, is even more confusing. The only relay contact in the stock 1600 electrical system would be in the control box (for generator), and that's even more wierd. There must be come wiring error. You could grab the schematics and check every wiring connection in the whole car. A more expedient approach would be to follow the faulty circuit to find the source of power. When the lamp is erroneously illuminated remove the lense and use a test light to determine which wire (by color code) is supplying the power. Then follow that wire back to the preceeding connector in the harness, test again to be sure you have the right wire with power, and check colors of other wire or wires in that connector. For any connector in the entire car there should be only one color of wire. Never connect two different colored wires together. Continue following wire or wires with power in this manner working your way back toward the power source (battery). Somewhere along the line you should find a mismatched wire connection. 1600 turn signal and brake lights: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_f3.htm Lighting circuit: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_d.htm Regulator circuit: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_c.htm Master electrical diagram: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_a.htm Happy hunting, and let us kow what you find. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 01:52 PM 4/10/2010 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote: >The passenger rear running light intermittently goes on by itself on >my MGA 1600. This is the lower bulb that is also used as a brake >light. It happens most often after I have turned my back on the >car and closed the garage door, only to come back later to see it >on. Any advice on what and where the likely culprits are, and how >to diagnosis this short. .... From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sun Apr 11 08:32:34 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:32:34 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I am installing the spin-on oil filter adaptor on my 64B project car. It started when I couldn't get the 20+ year old o-ring seal out of the block groove plus knowing I'd have to line up the canister and old adaptor with the block on reassembly and aligned so that the assembly doesn't leak oil. It seemed like time to try the spin-on adaptor and thus be done with the messy canister filter changes. I finally had to take a drill to split the 0-ring seal so I could get a small screwdriver blade under the rubber and finally get the seal out - all now petrified rubber. I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today but it looks like a nice kit so I'll probably convert my 67BGT over as well on its next oil change. I ordered the kit but not the filter as it looks like Moss has the filter marked up maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify the filter as 235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - what does that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter number? I usually get my filters at NAPA where their gold filters are just rebranded WIX filters. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 09:02:25 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:02:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <56AFF50C-CB13-4464-BBFF-0FB1AA279682@gmail.com> V8 ford filter fits. Ph8 Fram Sent from my iPhone On Apr 11, 2010, at 7:32, "Councill, David" wrote: > I am installing the spin-on oil filter adaptor on my 64B project > car. It > started when I couldn't get the 20+ year old o-ring seal out of the > block groove plus knowing I'd have to line up the canister and old > adaptor with the block on reassembly and aligned so that the assembly > doesn't leak oil. It seemed like time to try the spin-on adaptor and > thus be done with the messy canister filter changes. I finally had to > take a drill to split the 0-ring seal so I could get a small > screwdriver > blade under the rubber and finally get the seal out - all now > petrified > rubber. > > I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today but it looks like a nice > kit so I'll probably convert my 67BGT over as well on its next oil > change. I ordered the kit but not the filter as it looks like Moss has > the filter marked up maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify > the > filter as 235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - > what > does that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter > number? I > usually get my filters at NAPA where their gold filters are just > rebranded WIX filters. > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sun Apr 11 10:19:30 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:19:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubilling s.edu> References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <493582.59347.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> For the hanging spin-on adapter see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100b.htm For the inverted spin-on adapter see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100b1.htm At 08:32 AM 4/11/2010 -0600, David Councill (dcouncill at msubillings.edu) wrote: >.... >I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today .... I ordered the kit >but not the filter as it looks like Moss has the filter marked up >maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify the filter as >235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - what does >that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter number? .... From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Sun Apr 11 13:55:59 2010 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 15:55:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top Message-ID: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Hi, I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. (Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy (beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the taped paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? TIA for the info, Bill Saidel BMCSNJ From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 11 14:51:48 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 13:51:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: WD40 is pretty good at removing glue, or any light oil. Then of course you have to clean up the oil, but soap and water can do that. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/11/10 12:55 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote: > Hi, > I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. > (Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy > (beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top > is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the taped > paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. > > Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top > that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? > > > TIA for the info, > > Bill Saidel > BMCSNJ From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sun Apr 11 15:33:27 2010 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 14:33:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] First Drive of the Season Message-ID: <631230.6001.qm@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I got tired of pushing the lawn mower through two inches of standing water in my field (and sinking into the much almost halfway to the tops of my shoes) and decided that the best afternoon activity for today was to take the MGA for its first drive of the season. It required a few pulls of the starter to get it going after sitting all winter. (The batteries died in the fall and I didn't replace them until this week.) I had a wonderfully uneventful little drive along the roads or Rosedale and Arletta - just the type of driving this car was made for. I'll finish the grass later... David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com From dbg.lists at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 18:56:16 2010 From: dbg.lists at gmail.com (Douglas Gaither) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 17:56:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] New Wiring Harness Message-ID: Well, Last night I was driving my '66B home from work when I noticed smelling something unfamiliar. After stopping by the supermarket, some guy informed me that I had no tail lights at all. Because I work late, I just crashed. So today before I came to work I thought I'd check the rear wiring harness to see if something came unplugged. To my surprise a few of the wires had melted their insulation off and melted the blue wire wrap. After realizing that this "could" have started a fire, I decided to install a new harness. So I've been looking at the harness from Advance Auto Wire. It looks very comprehensive and well thought out. So I have a few questions... 1) Any one have any experience with the Advance Auto Wire harnesses? http://www.advanceautowire.com/ 2) Any suggestions for alternate locations for the new "Powerblock" (fuses & relays)? 3) When Dan Masters (Advance Auto Wire founder) built his own custom MGB-GT V8, he routed the wire through the sills. Has anyone else done this? Ideas for routing wiring inside the car rather than under it? ( http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DanMasters.htm check out the 4th picture down). 4) While I'm completing this project, what else should I consider doing? I've thought about changing my wiper motor a newer 2-speed wiper (this is a daily driver) Thanks in advance From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Sun Apr 11 19:16:45 2010 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:16:45 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100411211645.2wcqgulyoo0w8g0k@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Well, I'm impressed. What does WD40 not do??? Can it fix oil leaks or at least clean up a cement driveway after the oil leaks? Thanks Max Bill Quoting Max Heim : > WD40 is pretty good at removing glue, or any light oil. Then of course you > have to clean up the oil, but soap and water can do that. > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > on 4/11/10 12:55 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu > wrote: > >> Hi, >> I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. >> (Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy >> (beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top >> is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the taped >> paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. >> >> Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top >> that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? >> >> >> TIA for the info, >> >> Bill Saidel >> BMCSNJ From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 11 19:35:27 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 18:35:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] New Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: Message-ID: A total re-wire is rather drastic, IMHO. But if you're up for it... I would recommend keeping the wiring harness out where you can inspect it. Running it through the sills seems like a bad idea on several counts (introduces openings for rust invasion, wires may abrade on unseen internal components, tracing faults becomes more difficult, fire extinguisher cannot reach, etc.). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires (just had a wiring meltdown, but it was out where I could repair it easily) on 4/11/10 5:56 PM, Douglas Gaither at dbg.lists at gmail.com wrote: > Well, > > Last night I was driving my '66B home from work when I noticed smelling > something unfamiliar. After stopping by the supermarket, some guy informed > me that I had no tail lights at all. Because I work late, I just crashed. > So today before I came to work I thought I'd check the rear wiring harness > to see if something came unplugged. To my surprise a few of the wires had > melted their insulation off and melted the blue wire wrap. > > After realizing that this "could" have started a fire, I decided to > install a new harness. So I've been looking at the harness from Advance > Auto Wire. It looks very comprehensive and well thought out. So I have a > few questions... > > 1) Any one have any experience with the Advance Auto Wire harnesses? > http://www.advanceautowire.com/ > > 2) Any suggestions for alternate locations for the new "Powerblock" (fuses & > relays)? > > 3) When Dan Masters (Advance Auto Wire founder) built his own custom MGB-GT > V8, he routed the wire through the sills. Has anyone else done this? Ideas > for routing wiring inside the car rather than under it? ( > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DanMasters.htm check out the 4th picture down). > > 4) While I'm completing this project, what else should I consider doing? > I've thought about changing my wiper motor a newer 2-speed wiper (this is a > daily driver) > > Thanks in advance From paul at ece.rochester.edu Sun Apr 11 19:40:29 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:40:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> References: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: I use naphtha when using weather strip cement or K Grip headliner adhesive. Is is a little slow but it takes it off in a non destructive to the tops or seats. paul >Hi, >I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. >(Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy >(beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top >is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the >taped paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. > >Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top >that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? > > >TIA for the info, > >Bill Saidel >BMCSNJ >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From shaws at mlcltd.com Sun Apr 11 19:42:36 2010 From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:42:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <20100411211645.2wcqgulyoo0w8g0k@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> References: <20100411211645.2wcqgulyoo0w8g0k@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <40E4F34A-20DE-4FD5-9C60-ACD8FD29951D@mlcltd.com> Well, its not a very good penetrant or lubricant. On Apr 11, 2010, at 8:16 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote: > Well, I'm impressed. What does WD40 not do??? Can it fix oil leaks or > at least clean up a cement driveway after the oil leaks? > > > > Thanks Max > > Bill > > > Quoting Max Heim : > >> WD40 is pretty good at removing glue, or any light oil. Then of >> course you >> have to clean up the oil, but soap and water can do that. >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> >> on 4/11/10 12:55 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu >> wrote: >> >>> Hi, >>> I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. >>> (Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy >>> (beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top >>> is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the >>> taped >>> paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. >>> >>> Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top >>> that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? >>> >>> >>> TIA for the info, >>> >>> Bill Saidel >>> BMCSNJ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ > shaws at mlcltd.com Bob Shaw shaws at mlcltd.com shawsgarage at mlcltd.com My MGA is NOT leaking - merely marking it's territory! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 11 20:00:27 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:00:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] help needed in nashville Message-ID: <6BF1D5A34B584FD7A75920F5F646763F@ranteer.local> hi. I have a friend with a 73 mgb in nashville. he drove it up there, and now it pretty much runs horribly. I can't much help him on the phone, and it might be more serious than just a bad plus or something. can anyone recommend a mechanic who could look at it? thanks. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 12 01:39:43 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 08:39:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top References: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: White spirit? ----- Original Message ----- > Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top > that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 12 01:53:48 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 08:53:48 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] New Wiring Harness References: Message-ID: <776F3DC18664475E828D08628EF8C3EF@paul> Quite probably a short on the red wires, as they weren't fused until 67. You need to find and fix the source of the short otherwise a new harness could go the same way. The usual cause is metal boxes or tools rattling around in there, often damaging the wires at the back of the lights (not part of the harness). The rear harness is a bigger job than the main harness in my experience as there are so many clips and fastenings. A short that far back can also burn the main harness, but if the damage is only localised I'd be inclined to repair rather than replace, a full harness replacement is a big job. What I *would* do is insert inline fuses in the red wire where the rear harness joins the main harness by the fusebox, and also in the white wire feeding the pump. Both my cars and two I have worked on have had shorts in the pump that has damaged both harnesses. As far as the wiper motor is concerned things are very confused around 66 and 67, and the roadster is different to the GT. There seem to be at least three if not four motors, switches and wiring arrangements about that time while it was changing from square single-speed to round two-speed, you need to be sure what you have before you can plan for an upgrade. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > After realizing that this "could" have started a fire, I decided to > install a new harness. > > 4) While I'm completing this project, what else should I consider doing? > I've thought about changing my wiper motor a newer 2-speed wiper (this is > a > daily driver) From mjanacek at snet.net Mon Apr 12 03:52:44 2010 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 05:52:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> References: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <4BC2ED6C.2080906@snet.net> Maybe "Goo Gone", but read the label before buying. Available from Walmart, Target and such. Mike saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote: > Hi, > I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. > (Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy > (beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top > is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the taped > paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. > > Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top > that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? > > > TIA for the info, > > Bill Saidel > BMCSNJ From mjanacek at snet.net Mon Apr 12 04:08:06 2010 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 06:08:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] help needed in nashville In-Reply-To: <6BF1D5A34B584FD7A75920F5F646763F@ranteer.local> References: <6BF1D5A34B584FD7A75920F5F646763F@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4BC2F106.2070301@snet.net> Tony Barnhills (RIP) site may help you. http://www.theautoist.com/ Click on "The List", then USA Scroll down to Tenn. Mike oliver wrote: > hi. I have a friend with a 73 mgb in nashville. he drove it up there, and > now it pretty much runs horribly. I can't much help him on the phone, and it > might be more serious than just a bad plus or something. > > can anyone recommend a mechanic who could look at it? > > thanks. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Apr 12 05:11:15 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 04:11:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> References: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <397566.51962.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Goo-gone works well on numerous sticky substances and grease.... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: "saidel at camden.rutgers.edu" To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, April 11, 2010 3:55:59 PM Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top Hi, I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. (Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy (beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the taped paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? TIA for the info, Bill Saidel BMCSNJ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From pboldtrix at juno.com Mon Apr 12 09:52:58 2010 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:52:58 GMT Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top Message-ID: <20100412.115258.13126.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com> "Goo Gone is good....it has an orange oil base that doesn't seem to harm anything and smells good also. Phil Bacon ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Mike Janacek mjanacek at snet.net Maybe "Goo Gone", but read the label before buying. Available from Walmart, Target and such. Mike saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote: > Hi, > I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. > (Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.)> > Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top > that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? > > > TIA for the info, > > Bill Saidel > BMCSNJ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pboldtrix at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 10:01:52 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:01:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <4BC2ED6C.2080906@snet.net> References: <20100411155559.r9gq8oy400wogkkg@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> <4BC2ED6C.2080906@snet.net> Message-ID: <4BC343F0.5030304@gmail.com> Mike Janacek wrote: > Maybe "Goo Gone", but read the label before buying. Available from > Walmart, Target and such. Always test on a small spot that's not easily visible. -Rocky Frisco -- From barrie at look.ca Mon Apr 12 10:13:01 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:13:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark, Just back from Cuba and tackled your English - As I am English, it's an absolute doddle. The its and it's is simple - all you have to do is recognise (spelt with an "s" - as that is the English way) that it's is a shortened version of it is. If you want more elucidation then remember that its is the same as yours, or theirs, or his. In the words of Monty Python "...it's all very simple really". Now if you want a challenges - What about affect and effect ???? By the way, saw Morris Minor 1000, 4/44 MG Magnette, Austin Westminister, Hillman Minx, Ford Anglia, Singer 1500- all 50's vintage - but not one MG TC/TD/A/B At 07:16 PM 4/3/2010, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >I sometimes wonder just how many folks who claim English >as their primary language could do this correctly: > >Put these three words into the appropriate blanks of the given >sentence: > >their there they're > >_____ over ____ with ____ stuff. > > >Sorry to be an unrelenting member of the grammar >police, heaven knows I have more serious Team.Net stuff >that needs attention. Maybe I'm just grumpy because as >Spring rolls into the Northern Hemisphere with its >warming weather I still don't have an LBC to drive! > >mjb. > >PS: Anyone up for a lecture on "its" vs. "it's" ? >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From dbg.lists at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 10:31:54 2010 From: dbg.lists at gmail.com (Douglas Gaither) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 09:31:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] New Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: <776F3DC18664475E828D08628EF8C3EF@paul> References: <776F3DC18664475E828D08628EF8C3EF@paul> Message-ID: <9E057538-6D7E-4F8F-82A2-76F7CB2B8758@gmail.com> I was considering an entire new harness because I have the blessing from my wifey to do so. I do realize this is a rather involved undertaking and so I would still consider either repairing the damage or replacing the rear harness. Either way, I like the idea of fusing the rear part of the harness, what size fuse would I use? Would you suggest just an inline fuse? Doug On Apr 12, 2010, at 12:53 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Quite probably a short on the red wires, as they weren't fused until > 67. You need to find and fix the source of the short otherwise a new > harness could go the same way. The usual cause is metal boxes or > tools rattling around in there, often damaging the wires at the back > of the lights (not part of the harness). The rear harness is a > bigger job than the main harness in my experience as there are so > many clips and fastenings. A short that far back can also burn the > main harness, but if the damage is only localised I'd be inclined to > repair rather than replace, a full harness replacement is a big > job. What I *would* do is insert inline fuses in the red wire where > the rear harness joins the main harness by the fusebox, and also in > the white wire feeding the pump. Both my cars and two I have worked > on have had shorts in the pump that has damaged both harnesses. > > As far as the wiper motor is concerned things are very confused > around 66 and 67, and the roadster is different to the GT. There > seem to be at least three if not four motors, switches and wiring > arrangements about that time while it was changing from square > single-speed to round two-speed, you need to be sure what you have > before you can plan for an upgrade. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> After realizing that this "could" have started a fire, I decided to >> install a new harness. >> >> 4) While I'm completing this project, what else should I consider >> doing? >> I've thought about changing my wiper motor a newer 2-speed wiper >> (this is a >> daily driver) From daybell7 at aol.com Mon Apr 12 11:07:10 2010 From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:07:10 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] SU Fuel Pump Message-ID: <8CCA879B98A4FD1-B90-4778@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> My SU fuel pump (electric) is back on the car and working just fine. I like the sound of the clicks, too. Thanks to everyone for the help! Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 12:02:04 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:02:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: barrie, On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 9:13 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > Mark, > > is recognise (spelt with an "s" - as that is the English way) that > it's is a shortened version of it is. The use of -ise is actually relatively recent in English usage. I have a Compact Oxford English dictionary that I bought in 1975 -- it shows words spelled using -ize as preferable to words spelled -ise. More recently, there was an episode of Inspector Morse (the original series with John Thaw), in which he identified an educated writer through the use of -ize spellings. From DMatt21502 at aol.com Mon Apr 12 12:31:25 2010 From: DMatt21502 at aol.com (DMatt21502 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:31:25 EDT Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top Message-ID: <8479e.653018bf.38f4c0fd@aol.com> If you can't make mineral spirits or goo gone work you might try semichrome polish. I used it on my 77 mgb windows that were scratched and yellowed and now they look like new but it took lots of elbow grease. You can buy it at most motorcycle shops. Also great for plastic covers over headlights on some newer cars. From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Mon Apr 12 13:30:29 2010 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:30:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <329800CF-B11B-48E3-87E7-D0DB687E9E1B@tampabay.rr.com> David, I use the NAPA Gold 1516 spin-off on my 53 TD, 60 MGA Coupe and my 67 MGB/GT Special. Highly recommended. Dave Houser On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:32 AM, Councill, David wrote: > I am installing the spin-on oil filter adaptor on my 64B project > car. It > started when I couldn't get the 20+ year old o-ring seal out of the > block groove plus knowing I'd have to line up the canister and old > adaptor with the block on reassembly and aligned so that the assembly > doesn't leak oil. It seemed like time to try the spin-on adaptor and > thus be done with the messy canister filter changes. I finally had to > take a drill to split the 0-ring seal so I could get a small > screwdriver > blade under the rubber and finally get the seal out - all now > petrified > rubber. > > I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today but it looks like a nice > kit so I'll probably convert my 67BGT over as well on its next oil > change. I ordered the kit but not the filter as it looks like Moss has > the filter marked up maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify > the > filter as 235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - > what > does that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter > number? I > usually get my filters at NAPA where their gold filters are just > rebranded WIX filters. > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B > _______________________________________________ From barrie at look.ca Mon Apr 12 11:10:11 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:10:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: <77307BD40DBA4424A5F424DED48E8232@HomePC> References: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> <77307BD40DBA4424A5F424DED48E8232@HomePC> Message-ID: My wife teaches yoga and she has dozens of those mats - don't use the stuff !!! At 01:24 PM 4/7/2010, Larry Daniels wrote: >My wife has an exercise mat that is, guessing from memory, maybe 1/4" to >3/8" thick. It is a blue dense closed-cell foam. You can get it in the >sporting goods department of a department store like Wally World, etc. > >Larry Daniels > >-------------------------------------------------- >From: "Douglas Gaither" >Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:48 AM >To: "mg list" >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild > >I purchased some suitable black vinyl from a fabric store. They did >have foam but it was just a light open-cell that is not durable >enough. I've also visited the local craft store, same story. I'll >keep looking. > > >On Apr 7, 2010, at 9:39 AM, Paul Root wrote: > > > So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? > > > > Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? > > > > I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed > > cell dense foam would work for this application. > > > > I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing > > place for less that $10. > > > > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > > >> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about > >> $84. > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >>> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... > >>> Any idea's out there? > >> _______________________________________________ > >> > >> Mgs at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 12 15:26:11 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:26:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> <77307BD40DBA4424A5F424DED48E8232@HomePC> Message-ID: <940C1CE5C6B246FA8CFA23E931BA6E66@HomePC> For Yoga or door caps? -------------------------------------------------- From: "Barrie Robinson" Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:10 PM To: "Larry Daniels" ; "Douglas Gaither" ; "mg list" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild My wife teaches yoga and she has dozens of those mats - don't use the stuff !!! At 01:24 PM 4/7/2010, Larry Daniels wrote: >My wife has an exercise mat that is, guessing from memory, maybe 1/4" to >3/8" thick. It is a blue dense closed-cell foam. You can get it in the >sporting goods department of a department store like Wally World, etc. > >Larry Daniels > >-------------------------------------------------- >From: "Douglas Gaither" >Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:48 AM >To: "mg list" >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild > >I purchased some suitable black vinyl from a fabric store. They did >have foam but it was just a light open-cell that is not durable >enough. I've also visited the local craft store, same story. I'll >keep looking. > > >On Apr 7, 2010, at 9:39 AM, Paul Root wrote: > > > So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? > > > > Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? > > > > I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed > > cell dense foam would work for this application. > > > > I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing > > place for less that $10. > > > > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > > >> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about > >> $84. > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >>> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... > >>> Any idea's out there? > >> _______________________________________________ > >> > >> Mgs at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 16:22:56 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:22:56 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood Message-ID: Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood -- http://thatwillbuffout.com/2010/04/09/funny-car-photos-radio-ran-over/ From barrie at look.ca Mon Apr 12 15:35:30 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:35:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Austin Healey Message-ID: Just in case anyone is interested! A friend of mine has a 1967 Austin Healey that he wants to sell. It has been stored for 30 years but has rusty wheels, bad interior and some damage. But and excellent project car probably not needing much more to restore to 100 points than any other example. If you are interested email to Denis Robbie at robbied at rogers.com. He will be subscribing to the Healey list Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Mon Apr 12 16:18:36 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:18:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: <56AFF50C-CB13-4464-BBFF-0FB1AA279682@gmail.com> References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <56AFF50C-CB13-4464-BBFF-0FB1AA279682@gmail.com> Message-ID: I thought that that oil filter survey said Fram ones were not very good !! At 11:02 AM 4/11/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >V8 ford filter fits. Ph8 Fram > >Sent from my iPhone > >On Apr 11, 2010, at 7:32, "Councill, David" > wrote: > >>I am installing the spin-on oil filter adaptor on my 64B project >>car. It >>started when I couldn't get the 20+ year old o-ring seal out of the >>block groove plus knowing I'd have to line up the canister and old >>adaptor with the block on reassembly and aligned so that the assembly >>doesn't leak oil. It seemed like time to try the spin-on adaptor and >>thus be done with the messy canister filter changes. I finally had to >>take a drill to split the 0-ring seal so I could get a small >>screwdriver >>blade under the rubber and finally get the seal out - all now >>petrified >>rubber. >> >>I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today but it looks like a nice >>kit so I'll probably convert my 67BGT over as well on its next oil >>change. I ordered the kit but not the filter as it looks like Moss has >>the filter marked up maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify >>the >>filter as 235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - >>what >>does that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter >>number? I >>usually get my filters at NAPA where their gold filters are just >>rebranded WIX filters. >> >>David Councill >>64 B >>67 BGT >>72 B >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Mon Apr 12 16:25:25 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:25:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <40E4F34A-20DE-4FD5-9C60-ACD8FD29951D@mlcltd.com> References: <20100411211645.2wcqgulyoo0w8g0k@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> <40E4F34A-20DE-4FD5-9C60-ACD8FD29951D@mlcltd.com> Message-ID: As a lubricator it matches glue - but great for removing sticky stuff ! At 09:42 PM 4/11/2010, Bob Shaw wrote: >Well, its not a very good penetrant or lubricant. >On Apr 11, 2010, at 8:16 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote: > >>Well, I'm impressed. What does WD40 not do??? Can it fix oil leaks or >>at least clean up a cement driveway after the oil leaks? >> >> >> >>Thanks Max >> >>Bill >> >> >>Quoting Max Heim : >> >>>WD40 is pretty good at removing glue, or any light oil. Then of >>>course you >>>have to clean up the oil, but soap and water can do that. >>> >>>-- >>> >>>Max Heim >>>'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >>>If you're near Mountain View, CA, >>>it's the primer red one with chrome wires >>> >>> >>> >>>on 4/11/10 12:55 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu at saidel at camden.rutgers.edu >>>wrote: >>> >>>>Hi, >>>>I just replaced the top on my B with one that a club member had. >>>>(Saved a whole bunch of $$$'s.) He is a, humph, Triumph guy >>>>(beautiful TR-3A!) but for some reason had an MGB top. Well, the top >>>>is now on after a nice few hours with a club colleague, but the >>>>taped >>>>paper over the windows left a white residue from the tape glue. >>>> >>>>Can anyone suggest a non-destructive solvent to use on a vinyl top >>>>that will remove the glue and leave the top intact? >>>> >>>> >>>>TIA for the info, >>>> >>>>Bill Saidel >>>>BMCSNJ >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Mgs at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ shaws at mlcltd.com > >Bob Shaw >shaws at mlcltd.com >shawsgarage at mlcltd.com > >My MGA is NOT leaking - merely marking it's territory! >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From riverside at southslope.net Mon Apr 12 17:16:53 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:16:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com><127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <001001cada96$3df86900$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> The Wix/NAPA filters are top of the line, Fran is much lower in quality. Ron Sanborn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Councill, David" To: "MG List" Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 9:32 AM Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor >I am installing the spin-on oil filter adaptor on my 64B project car. It > started when I couldn't get the 20+ year old o-ring seal out of the > block groove plus knowing I'd have to line up the canister and old > adaptor with the block on reassembly and aligned so that the assembly > doesn't leak oil. It seemed like time to try the spin-on adaptor and > thus be done with the messy canister filter changes. I finally had to > take a drill to split the 0-ring seal so I could get a small screwdriver > blade under the rubber and finally get the seal out - all now petrified > rubber. > > I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today but it looks like a nice > kit so I'll probably convert my 67BGT over as well on its next oil > change. I ordered the kit but not the filter as it looks like Moss has > the filter marked up maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify the > filter as 235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - what > does that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter number? I > usually get my filters at NAPA where their gold filters are just > rebranded WIX filters. > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside at southslope.net From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 17:42:18 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:42:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Car Owner: Hello Insurance company? I was in an accident. I have already taken my car to the cabinet maker's shop Ins Co: Was anyone hurt, and don't you mean the body shop? CO: Well I did get some serious splinters, and no the cabinet maker's is correct. IC: Splinters? Cabinet maker's shop? WTF? On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 3:22 PM, Simon Matthews wrote: > Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood -- > > http://thatwillbuffout.com/2010/04/09/funny-car-photos-radio-ran-over/ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Mon Apr 12 18:01:15 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 19:01:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> << Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood -- http://thatwillbuffout.com/2010/04/09/funny-car-photos-radio-ran-over/ >> Nah Simon, HAVE to be Aston Martin !!!!!! Anon From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 18:14:10 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:14:10 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <56AFF50C-CB13-4464-BBFF-0FB1AA279682@gmail.com> Message-ID: They are, but it's funny how some part numbers stick in your head, while other don't. for some screwy ass reason, PH-8 sticks in my head. I have to think about FL-1 (same application different maker). About these filters. There are only about 4 different threads and about 3 or 4 different gaskets between all the different spin on filters out there. for example, want a V8 Ford filter gasket and thread, but shorter? Buy a spin on to fit a gas engined Volvo 1962-1998. same thread, same gasket, shorter body. Rick On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 3:18 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > > I thought that that oil filter survey said Fram ones were not very good !! > > > > > At 11:02 AM 4/11/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: > >> V8 ford filter fits. Ph8 Fram >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Apr 11, 2010, at 7:32, "Councill, David" >> wrote: >> >> I am installing the spin-on oil filter adaptor on my 64B project >>> car. It >>> started when I couldn't get the 20+ year old o-ring seal out of the >>> block groove plus knowing I'd have to line up the canister and old >>> adaptor with the block on reassembly and aligned so that the assembly >>> doesn't leak oil. It seemed like time to try the spin-on adaptor and >>> thus be done with the messy canister filter changes. I finally had to >>> take a drill to split the 0-ring seal so I could get a small >>> screwdriver >>> blade under the rubber and finally get the seal out - all now >>> petrified >>> rubber. >>> >>> I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today but it looks like a nice >>> kit so I'll probably convert my 67BGT over as well on its next oil >>> change. I ordered the kit but not the filter as it looks like Moss has >>> the filter marked up maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify >>> the >>> filter as 235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - >>> what >>> does that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter >>> number? I >>> usually get my filters at NAPA where their gold filters are just >>> rebranded WIX filters. >>> >>> David Councill >>> 64 B >>> 67 BGT >>> 72 B >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca >> > > Regards > > Barrie > (705) 721-9060 From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Apr 12 18:32:31 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:32:31 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: <329800CF-B11B-48E3-87E7-D0DB687E9E1B@tampabay.rr.com> References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com> <127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <329800CF-B11B-48E3-87E7-D0DB687E9E1B@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1E81@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I usually keep spare filters on hand which I buy at NAPA. I seldom remember the numbers. I don't know why, but the Fram numbers have been ingrained in my mind even though I haven't actually used a Fram in probably more than a decade. Still, having the same cars for many more years than that, the PH43 and PH8 equivalents have always been my mainstay. And the canister filter, the NAPA 1300 I always remember and keep on hand too. I just went to the garage to turn the heat on as I'm going to install the spin-on adaptor shortly. And in my collection of filters, I actually have a couple of 1516s. A narrower filter, not sure why I have them. It must have been for Ford applications, former wife or daughter car. Definitely not a PH8. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B 74 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 01 Land Rover Discovery II -----Original Message----- From: W. David Houser [mailto:mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com] Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 1:30 PM To: Councill, David Cc: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor David, I use the NAPA Gold 1516 spin-off on my 53 TD, 60 MGA Coupe and my 67 MGB/GT Special. Highly recommended. Dave Houser From awhitema at panix.com Mon Apr 12 18:33:35 2010 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:33:35 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] windshield bits help needed Message-ID: Yesterday, I washed my '75 B for the first time since I got it back from paint. It's been about 5 months (I dusted the car regularly, but no soap). While washing, I noticed that the new-at-the-time rubber bits that go between the windshield posts and the body had cracked and were breaking apart (joy!). I've ordered replacements already, though I do NOT look forward to the job. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 12 18:36:37 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:36:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor In-Reply-To: Message-ID: 1. I think he was just giving the number for cross-reference. 2. I believe that survey is pretty old by now. Fram currently has 3 grades of filter available. The premium one is probably comparable. The one in the survey is equivalent to their lowest grade. 3. That same filter fits Chrysler small block V8s (another cross-reference). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/12/10 3:18 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote: > I thought that that oil filter survey said Fram ones were not very good !! > > > > At 11:02 AM 4/11/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >> V8 ford filter fits. Ph8 Fram >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Apr 11, 2010, at 7:32, "Councill, David" >> wrote: >> >>> I am installing the spin-on oil filter adaptor on my 64B project >>> car. It >>> started when I couldn't get the 20+ year old o-ring seal out of the >>> block groove plus knowing I'd have to line up the canister and old >>> adaptor with the block on reassembly and aligned so that the assembly >>> doesn't leak oil. It seemed like time to try the spin-on adaptor and >>> thus be done with the messy canister filter changes. I finally had to >>> take a drill to split the 0-ring seal so I could get a small >>> screwdriver >>> blade under the rubber and finally get the seal out - all now >>> petrified >>> rubber. >>> >>> I'll be putting in the spin-on adaptor today but it looks like a nice >>> kit so I'll probably convert my 67BGT over as well on its next oil >>> change. I ordered the kit but not the filter as it looks like Moss has >>> the filter marked up maybe $2-$3 more than local cost. They identify >>> the >>> filter as 235-880 or the WIX filter as 235-830. Today's question - >>> what >>> does that translate to in terms of a WIX, Napa, or Fram filter >>> number? I >>> usually get my filters at NAPA where their gold filters are just >>> rebranded WIX filters. >>> >>> David Councill >>> 64 B >>> 67 BGT >>> 72 B From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Apr 12 19:56:57 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:56:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <337412.64868.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I actually think it is a Midget. If it's the same wooden car I saw in Cape Cod a few years ago, that is. Can there be more than one running around?? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Simon Matthews To: MGS Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 6:22:56 PM Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood -- http://thatwillbuffout.com/2010/04/09/funny-car-photos-radio-ran-over/ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From awhitema at panix.com Mon Apr 12 20:06:13 2010 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 19:06:13 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] windshield bits help needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Apr 12, 2010, at 5:33 PM, Aaron Whiteman wrote: > I've ordered replacements already, though I do NOT look forward to the job. How very odd, the last bit of the message was cut off, which was the important bit. From awhitema at panix.com Mon Apr 12 21:09:19 2010 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:09:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] windshield bits help needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <40113E22-FBB8-4D4C-A13A-4CCB73C66CD4@panix.com> On Apr 12, 2010, at 7:06 PM, Aaron Whiteman wrote: > On Apr 12, 2010, at 5:33 PM, Aaron Whiteman wrote: > >> I've ordered replacements already, though I do NOT look forward to the job. > > How very odd, the last bit of the message was cut off, which was the important > bit. Arg! This is crazy. Third time maybe? "Is there anything I can do to the rubber bits to make them last longer?" From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 23:47:50 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 22:47:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: <337412.64868.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <337412.64868.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 6:56 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > I actually think it is a Midget. If it's the same wooden car I saw in Cape > Cod a few years ago, that is. Can there be more > than one running around?? Next to it is a Reliant Scimitar. Did any of those make it to the USA? Simon From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Apr 13 01:42:26 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:42:26 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top References: <20100412.115258.13126.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <87190E7B74E640BD88C1D9DDE33ABA4E@paul> Does it smell better than glue? ----- Original Message ----- > "Goo Gone is good....it has an orange oil base that doesn't seem to harm > anything and smells good also. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Apr 13 01:47:09 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:47:09 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] New Wiring Harness References: <776F3DC18664475E828D08628EF8C3EF@paul> <9E057538-6D7E-4F8F-82A2-76F7CB2B8758@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1B3028DB6FBE426AB1ED44715F3F90E3@paul> Yes, just an in-line, with two bullets, inserted where the rear harness joins the main harness in the mass of connectors by the fusebox, it's how they were fused from 67 until 70 and the four-fuse box. Same for the pump. Standard 17 amp rated 35 amp blow for both will be fine, it's there to protect the wiring so the current consumption of lamps and pump is irrelevant, and should one blow there are (or should be) two spares in the fusebox anyway. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I was considering an entire new harness because I have the blessing from >my wifey to do so. I do realize this is a rather involved undertaking and >so I would still consider either repairing the damage or replacing the >rear harness. > > Either way, I like the idea of fusing the rear part of the harness, what > size fuse would I use? Would you suggest just an inline fuse? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Apr 13 02:05:43 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:05:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Morse was an arrogant miserable misogynist. 'Oxford' spelling can be recognised by its (or is that it's ...) ize spellings although ise has been standard English English for decades. However the Times only changed in 1990 (to the tine of 'the Times, they are a-changing'?). The American use of ize is, like 'fall' for Autumn, older English fallen into disuse here but not there. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The use of -ise is actually relatively recent in English usage. I have > a Compact Oxford English dictionary that I bought in 1975 -- it shows > words spelled using -ize as preferable to words spelled -ise. > > More recently, there was an episode of Inspector Morse (the original > series with John Thaw), in which he identified an educated writer > through the use of -ize spellings. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Apr 13 01:48:34 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:48:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <349729D6D6284E3FA4A265E6FED992F6@paul> And for that matter ensure and insure. And a lot of people seem to have problems with break and brake. ----- Original Message ----- > Now if you want a challenges - What about affect and effect ???? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Apr 13 02:57:26 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:57:26 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Spin-on oil filter adaptor References: <4BC0C8EE.1010601@stclegal.com><127822.29285.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF1CD7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><56AFF50C-CB13-4464-BBFF-0FB1AA279682@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8C583C07DA324CD4A53170A087B21212@paul> Exactly! There is a Unipart GFE121F which is said to have an improved valve, made by Fram (PH2857A), and sold by a well-known MG organisation. I bought several, but they were worse than Champion or Halfords giving a noticeably longer pressure rise time even when new. So I would only use them on the V8 with its hanging filter, and thats when I settled on Volvo 3517857-3/Mann W917 for the inverted on the roadster. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I thought that that oil filter survey said Fram ones were not very good !! From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Tue Apr 13 03:25:59 2010 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 05:25:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top In-Reply-To: <87190E7B74E640BD88C1D9DDE33ABA4E@paul> References: <20100412.115258.13126.0@webmail24.vgs.untd.com> <87190E7B74E640BD88C1D9DDE33ABA4E@paul> Message-ID: <20100413052559.60nvwcocowwwwwo8@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Way better and works better than WD40, but glue has an extra something to it so one loses an ability to answer such questions accurately! Bill Quoting Paul Hunt : > Does it smell better than glue? > > ----- Original Message ----- >> "Goo Gone is good....it has an orange oil base that doesn't seem to harm >> anything and smells good also. > _______________________________________________ From redscirocco at hotmail.com Tue Apr 13 08:43:40 2010 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:43:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Four Angry Cylinders In-Reply-To: <48A000133223479099DF7B8B7F72C902@EricJRussellPC> References: <48A000133223479099DF7B8B7F72C902@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: Thanks for that, Eric. Hilarious. This is the most accurate description of starting a T-type I've ever heard: "Starting the Shiftright Special is much like firing up any more ordinary TC. One turns the ignition key to the ON position, theoretically activating the Lucas electrical system. Then, using one free hand, the choke knob is pulled out vigorously, until the dashboard begins to groan in protest, and then it is retracted ever so slightly; with the other free hand, the starter pull knob is also pulled; and with the last free hand, the gearshift is positioned into neutral. This is the preferred method, since having both feet firmly planted on the floor rather than on gas and clutch gives the driver the firm purchase necessary to overpower the choke and starter cables." and this: "Ultimately, though, we will probably have to rely on quoting Karl Ludvigsen, who seems to have intuitively grasped the TC design better than anyone else, when he suggested the image of 'a coffin riding on four harps.'" http://www.roadandtrack.com/special_feature/1949-mg-tc-four-angry-cylinders -Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT '54 MG TF '73 MG Midget > From: ejrussell at mebtel.net > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 13:12:20 -0400 > Subject: [Mgs] Four Angry Cylinders > > Road & Track drives the Shiftright Special. > > http://www.roadandtrack.com/special_feature/1949-mg-tc-four-angry-cylinders > > > It is nothing short of remarkable that this car even exists today. The 1949 MG > TC was certainly not built with the idea that it would be still running many > decades later. It is for this reason, for instance, that modern skyscrapers, > tunnels and freeways are not made of wood. Nonetheless, the TC was certainly > built to a purpose - to get a person from one place to another as > uncomfortably as humanly possible has been suggested as the motive. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca Tue Apr 13 09:40:27 2010 From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:40:27 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] engine question Message-ID: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just the block and head assembled, oil in. Malcolm From mgbob at juno.com Tue Apr 13 09:39:32 2010 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 15:39:32 GMT Subject: [Mgs] windshield bits help needed Message-ID: <20100413.113932.22512.0@webmail19.vgs.untd.com> Sympathies are extended to you. Sunday I was looking over my GT and found to my dismay that the rubber for the one vent window was splitting. Rubber on the other was like new. Both pieces are two years old. Replacing this was not fun at the time and it's not likely to be fun in the future, but if cracking continues so that water can get into the door, it will be necessary to replace it, again. The good news is that the windshield replacement project that I asked the list about, several weeks ago, is complete. Ed's advice, to give the project to professionals, was good advice unless one's time is valueless. From start to completion, it was about 4.5 hours with two guys at the project. Removal was easy. Installation of the new rubber was easy. Putting the windshield into the rubber was easy. Installation of the rubber filler piece was not easy. Workshop manual shows a handy tool. We did not have that, but the rubber was so stiff that I doubt it would have worked. We used RuGlide, the slick stuff for mounting tires onto wheels, as it stays slippery far longer than soapy water. The filler piece could be worked into place slowly, an eighth of an inch at a time, into the straight windshield rubber, then back into the corners. Corners seemed to be of different rubber from the straight lengths, glued into place. They were much harder rubber. The seal has lips of two sizes. We found that pressing the filler underneath the smaller lip, then under larger lip, worked far better than under larger first. When it's in place, it is definitely in place--flush and tight and it is visibly right. The most difficult part of the task was installation of the metal trim strips. It appears that it would be quick and easy. It's neither. Corners are inserted first, into the hard rubber of the windshield corners. If they were children, they would have been kicking & screaming. They go in, then pop out. They go in again and come half-way out. Then the straight strips are installed. These fit on top of corner pieces. I have not seen new trim metal, but this that was cut out of the old rubber was surprisingly twisty. One did not think that it would go into place. Surprisingly, although getting it under the tiny lips of the windshield seal is a very slow process, once in place it is locked in place and looks good. It all worked out well, but it's not a job one would wish to undertake alone and one should budget a day for the job. How nice it is to have the proper glass installed, glass without 125,000 + miles of sand pitting. Surely it didn't take nine man-hours at Abingdon. We assume that the rubber was far more pliable, probably days old instead of months or years old. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Aaron Whiteman To: MG Mailing List Subject: [Mgs] windshield bits help needed Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:33:35 -0700 Yesterday, I washed my '75 B for the first time since I got it back from paint. It's been about 5 months (I dusted the car regularly, but no soap). While washing, I noticed that the new-at-the-time rubber bits that go between the windshield posts and the body had cracked and were breaking apart (joy!). I've ordered replacements already, though I do NOT look forward to the job. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Soaring 3000% Sign up for Free to find out what the next 3000% Stock Winner Is! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc490807c8292649afst05vuc From atweditor at aol.com Tue Apr 13 09:41:07 2010 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:41:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CCA936DE28338F-6A4-2937@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> Americans also eat with knife and fork the same way our settler forefathers (and foremothers) ate, cutting, then putting down the knife to use the fork curved side up, or so I have read. I prefer the "European" style of plowing through with knife and fork held all of the time. Jay Donoghue -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt To: Simon Matthews Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net LIST Sent: Tue, Apr 13, 2010 4:05 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Their back!! Morse was an arrogant miserable misogynist. 'Oxford' spelling can be recognised by its (or is that it's ...) ize spellings although ise has been standard English English for decades. However the Times only changed in 1990 (to the tine of 'the Times, they are a-changing'?). The American use of ize is, like 'fall' for Autumn, older English fallen into disuse here but not there. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The use of -ise is actually relatively recent in English usage. I have > a Compact Oxford English dictionary that I bought in 1975 -- it shows > words spelled using -ize as preferable to words spelled -ise. > > More recently, there was an episode of Inspector Morse (the original > series with John Thaw), in which he identified an educated writer > through the use of -ize spellings. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com From mgbob at juno.com Tue Apr 13 09:46:15 2010 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 15:46:15 GMT Subject: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top Message-ID: <20100413.114615.22512.1@webmail19.vgs.untd.com> GooGone is without equal in the kindergarten and first-grade classroom. It removes the mysterious substances that little children smear onto tables. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] remove glue from vinyl top Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 05:25:59 -0400 Way better and works better than WD40, but glue has an extra something to it so one loses an ability to answer such questions accurately! Bill Quoting Paul Hunt : > Does it smell better than glue? > > ----- Original Message ----- >> "Goo Gone is good....it has an orange oil base that doesn't seem to harm >> anything and smells good also. > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Auto Insurance Quotes Enter Zip Code and Compare Rates! How Much Can You Save? http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc491f2ef02244092st02vuc From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 11:27:56 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:27:56 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: In lbs no. But three of us picked up an MGB engine a few weeks back and put it in the back of a SUV with a fairly high tailgate. The engine was complete less the clutch, flywheel, and backing plate. When I was a young stud, I rebuilt a B motor in my basement and my father and I slung it from a 2X4 and carried it up the stairs on our shoulders. This might give you an idea of what it takes to move one. Rick On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 8:40 AM, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just the > block and head assembled, oil in. > > Malcolm > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From lundgren at byu.net Tue Apr 13 11:28:37 2010 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:28:37 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <8CCA936DE28338F-6A4-2937@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> <8CCA936DE28338F-6A4-2937@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BC4A9C5.6080505@byu.net> My wife told my sons that is polite, but they don't seem to have bought into it. I am just happy if they don't shove so much in at once that they puke. -- Andrew On 04/13/2010 09:41 AM, atweditor at aol.com wrote: > Americans also eat with knife and fork the same way our settler forefathers > (and foremothers) ate, cutting, then putting down the knife to use the fork > curved side up, or so I have read. I prefer the "European" style of plowing > through with knife and fork held all of the time. > > Jay Donoghue From redscirocco at hotmail.com Tue Apr 13 11:47:21 2010 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:47:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <8CCA936DE28338F-6A4-2937@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com>, , <8CCA936DE28338F-6A4-2937@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Yes, my parents taught me it was rude to eat with both hands, but they were sticklers for our old-fashioned table manners. Living in Europe, I soon learned to eat native style to keep from being stared at in restaurants. I remember a German acquaintance telling me that they wonder what it is we're doing with our left hand under the table when we eat, and suspect the worst. Years later, I remember sitting down to my first meal with my new (Irish) inlaws - everyone watching me until my brother-in-law finally said, "well, at least he doesn't eat like an American." Apparently they're amused by the whole moving the fork to the left hand, picking the knife up, cutting, setting the knife down, switching the fork back to the right hand, and eating with your left hand in your lap thing. > To: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk; simon.d.matthews at gmail.com > Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:41:07 -0400 > From: atweditor at aol.com > CC: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Their back!! > > Americans also eat with knife and fork the same way our settler forefathers > (and foremothers) ate, cutting, then putting down the knife to use the fork > curved side up, or so I have read. I prefer the "European" style of plowing > through with knife and fork held all of the time. > > Jay Donoghue > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Hunt > To: Simon Matthews > Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net LIST > Sent: Tue, Apr 13, 2010 4:05 am > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Their back!! > > > Morse was an arrogant miserable misogynist. 'Oxford' spelling can be > recognised by its (or is that it's ...) ize spellings although ise has been > standard English English for decades. However the Times only changed in 1990 > (to the tine of 'the Times, they are a-changing'?). The American use of ize > is, like 'fall' for Autumn, older English fallen into disuse here but not > there. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > The use of -ise is actually relatively recent > in English usage. I have > > a Compact Oxford English dictionary that I bought in 1975 -- it shows > > words spelled using -ize as preferable to words spelled -ise. > > > > More recently, there was an episode of Inspector Morse (the original > > series with John Thaw), in which he identified an educated writer > > through the use of -ize spellings. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From rocknatural at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 11:56:19 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:56:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4BC4B043.7020506@gmail.com> Paul Hunt wrote: > Morse was an arrogant miserable misogynist. 'Oxford' spelling can be > recognised by its (or is that it's ...) ize spellings although ise has > been standard English English for decades. However the Times only > changed in 1990 (to the tine of 'the Times, they are a-changing'?). > The American use of ize is, like 'fall' for Autumn, older English > fallen into disuse here but not there. The it's its usage is the most frequently erroneous one I see. The rule is so simple: no apostrophes in possessive pronouns; apostrophes only in the contraction. -Rocky Frisco -- From atweditor at aol.com Tue Apr 13 13:30:04 2010 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 15:30:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <8CCA956DA1B2D68-6A4-6166@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> Dead heavy, for certain. I've got an "extra" engine sitting in the corner of my garage that came with an earlier roadster, but I'm going to have to move it somewhere next year when we sell the house, setting up for retirement, etc. I have no freaking idea what do do with it. It's external condition is OK (well oiled, like a good "B" engine should be), but the internals are a complete unknown. I've also used it as a parts source, so it isn't complete. Jay Donoghue -----Original Message----- From: Richard Ewald To: Malcolm Jeffcock Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Apr 13, 2010 1:27 pm Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine question In lbs no. But three of us picked up an MGB engine a few weeks back and put it in the back of a SUV with a fairly high tailgate. The engine was complete less the clutch, flywheel, and backing plate. When I was a young stud, I rebuilt a B motor in my basement and my father and I slung it from a 2X4 and carried it up the stairs on our shoulders. This might give you an idea of what it takes to move one. Rick On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 8:40 AM, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just the > block and head assembled, oil in. > > Malcolm > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com From mark at bradakis.com Tue Apr 13 14:06:14 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:06:14 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <4BC4CEB6.7010105@bradakis.com> Folks might find this interesting: http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html mjb. From Aeseeyou at aol.com Tue Apr 13 14:49:32 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:49:32 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! Message-ID: <2078.6f7ba625.38f632dc@aol.com> In a message dated 4/13/2010 2:03:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: And for that matter ensure and insure. And a lot of people seem to have problems with break and brake. Yo Paul... Especially those who bought Toyotas made after 2008! I think what they tried to do was make an advanced integrated rheostat-lectronic system that hooked the cruise control, brakes and throttle into one unit Plus whatever else they could include in the circuitry,.then they probably outsourced the job to Lucas Electronics! Funny people those Japanese .....I mean too say a Miata is better than an MGB or Lotus...I admit the Datsun 240 fastback cut into the English US sales. But then they ruined it with the Nissan 260-Nissan 280 sports cars which practically self destructed (IMHO) Safety-Fast! Forever Alberto Escalante From jello at cableone.net Tue Apr 13 15:22:13 2010 From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:22:13 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [MGS] Their Back Message-ID: <1033.1271193733@cableone.net> Wouldn't it be They're back, not their back - well unless someone is watching their back. I'd think it's more like They're back in town though. Phil From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 13 16:23:41 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:23:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <2078.6f7ba625.38f632dc@aol.com> References: <2078.6f7ba625.38f632dc@aol.com> Message-ID: <4BC4EEED.80801@justbrits.com> << I mean too say a Miata is better than an MGB or Lotus...>> HERETIC I say Albert, HERETIC !!!!!! Oh the SHAME of it all !!! Ed PS: WAIT, A VERY qualified "maybe" ref Lotus !! PPS: -:) From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 13 16:38:53 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:38:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MGS] Their Back In-Reply-To: <1033.1271193733@cableone.net> References: <1033.1271193733@cableone.net> Message-ID: <4BC4F27D.4090602@justbrits.com> /2335bj: Permission denied From rocknatural at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 17:06:06 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 18:06:06 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <2078.6f7ba625.38f632dc@aol.com> References: <2078.6f7ba625.38f632dc@aol.com> Message-ID: <4BC4F8DE.5090900@gmail.com> Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/13/2010 2:03:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: > > And for that matter ensure and insure. And a lot of people seem to have > problems with break and brake. > > Yo Paul... > Especially those who bought Toyotas made after 2008! I think what they > tried to do was make an advanced integrated rheostat-lectronic system that > hooked the cruise control, brakes and throttle into one unit Plus whatever > else they could include in the circuitry,.then they probably outsourced the > job to Lucas Electronics! Funny people those Japanese .....I mean too say a > Miata is better than an MGB or Lotus...I admit the Datsun 240 fastback cut > into the English US sales. But then they ruined it with the Nissan > 260-Nissan 280 sports cars which practically self destructed (IMHO) > Safety-Fast! Forever > Alberto Escalante Al, et al, I think the MGA and MGB are the best of the lot. Equivalent to a 1953 Chevy Pickup with a straight six and not a computer in sight. The Victor is all MGB and it's so easy to dignose and fix. A buddy has a later model Porsche and has been fighting starting problems for a number of years now. They have replaced damn near everything, but it still starts only when it feels like it. -Rocky Frisco -- From cyberemp at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 17:27:05 2010 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 23:27:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Mgs] glue on windshield In-Reply-To: <595100983.16091601271201134944.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2080813190.16092491271201225485.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I have used acetone on glass with excellent results. also takes tree sap off clear coated paints. Also took lacquer paint off one of my projects, so use with caution. Never tried on plastic window, try on small area first,B (insert B disclaimer and cautionary statement that is much longer than original letter here) Eric. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 17:45:58 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 18:45:58 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] They're Back (was Re: [MGS] Their Back) In-Reply-To: <1033.1271193733@cableone.net> References: <1033.1271193733@cableone.net> Message-ID: Yes, that's what started this thread. Some idiot is illiterate. Oh, yeah, it was me. :-) I've already put up my defense. The "They" in question is that University Motors has re-opened their doors. Paul. On Apr 13, 2010, at 4:22 PM, Phil Bates wrote: > Wouldn't it be They're back, not their back - well unless someone is watching > their > back. I'd think it's more like They're back in town though. > > Phil > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com From barrie at look.ca Tue Apr 13 11:45:24 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:45:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Simon, You got to admit English is weird language, albeit "live". I was at an English public school for six years in the 50's and and we were taught to use "s". This maybe because they were in centuries old dogma (it was founded in 597 - and that is not a typing error!). So maybe this "s" versus "z" is a toggle back and forward thing. I have 16th century maps that use no "z" an a 1822 document signed by the Archbishop of Canterbury that uses "s". Again to quote Monty Python ".....it's all very strange really". But back to MG things.......I forgot to mention that I saw no mechanic shops in Havana. I wonder if they are banished to the non- tourist areas? I though I would ask if anyone around had an MG but no luck. At 02:02 PM 4/12/2010, Simon Matthews wrote: >barrie, > >On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 9:13 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > > Mark, > > > > > is recognise (spelt with an "s" - as that is the English way) that > > it's is a shortened version of it is. > >The use of -ise is actually relatively recent in English usage. I have >a Compact Oxford English dictionary that I bought in 1975 -- it shows >words spelled using -ize as preferable to words spelled -ise. > >More recently, there was an episode of Inspector Morse (the original >series with John Thaw), in which he identified an educated writer >through the use of -ize spellings. > > > > Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Tue Apr 13 11:48:48 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:48:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild In-Reply-To: <940C1CE5C6B246FA8CFA23E931BA6E66@HomePC> References: <1AB40202-312F-4CF3-B23A-CDE0B778C2C1@gmail.com> <77307BD40DBA4424A5F424DED48E8232@HomePC> <940C1CE5C6B246FA8CFA23E931BA6E66@HomePC> Message-ID: JUST FOR DOOR CAPS! At 05:26 PM 4/12/2010, Larry Daniels wrote: >For Yoga or door caps? > > > >-------------------------------------------------- >From: "Barrie Robinson" >Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:10 PM >To: "Larry Daniels" ; "Douglas Gaither" >; "mg list" >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild > >My wife teaches yoga and she has dozens of those mats - don't use the stuff >!!! > > >At 01:24 PM 4/7/2010, Larry Daniels wrote: > >My wife has an exercise mat that is, guessing from memory, maybe 1/4" to > >3/8" thick. It is a blue dense closed-cell foam. You can get it in the > >sporting goods department of a department store like Wally World, etc. > > > >Larry Daniels > > > >-------------------------------------------------- > >From: "Douglas Gaither" > >Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:48 AM > >To: "mg list" > >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Foam for door cap rebuild > > > >I purchased some suitable black vinyl from a fabric store. They did > >have foam but it was just a light open-cell that is not durable > >enough. I've also visited the local craft store, same story. I'll > >keep looking. > > > > > >On Apr 7, 2010, at 9:39 AM, Paul Root wrote: > > > > > So, it sounds like you want to recover them yourself? > > > > > > Is the vinyl ok and you just need to restuff it? > > > > > > I'd go to a craft shop or camping place. Perhaps the blue closed > > > cell dense foam would work for this application. > > > > > > I bet you could get all the foam you needed from a craft/sewing > > > place for less that $10. > > > > > > > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > > > > >> Get them from the UK, 55 quid ... a pair, complete. That's about > > >> $84. > > >> > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > >>> ... Although Moss sells a complete cap for $150, ... > > >>> Any idea's out there? > > >> _______________________________________________ > > >> > > >> Mgs at autox.team.net > > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb at gmail.com > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Mgs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe: > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Mgs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca > >Regards > >Barrie >(705) 721-9060 Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Tue Apr 13 11:52:19 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:52:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> References: <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> Message-ID: From the door it looks like a TR2/3 maybe ?? At 08:01 PM 4/12/2010, Shop at \" Just Brits \" wrote: ><< Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood -- >http://thatwillbuffout.com/2010/04/09/funny-car-photos-radio-ran-over/ >> > >Nah Simon, HAVE to be Aston Martin !!!!!! > >Anon >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 13 19:12:05 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 20:12:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Re: Their back!!] Message-ID: <4BC51665.70905@justbrits.com> -------- Original Message -------- << I mean too say a Miata is better than an MGB or Lotus...>> HERETIC I say Albert, HERETIC !!!!!! Oh the SHAME of it all !!! Ed PS: WAIT, A VERY qualified "maybe" ref Lotus !! PPS: -:) From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 20:37:12 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:37:12 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: References: <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:52 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > From the door it looks like a TR2/3 maybe ?? One can only hope! Actually, I wondered that, but the shape of the tops of the doors doesn't seem to match a TR2/3. Simon From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 20:39:32 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:39:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Barrie, On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > > Simon, > > You got to admit English is weird language, albeit "live". Agreed. The US Military considers English the most difficult foreign language to learn. > > But back to MG things.......I forgot to mention that I saw no mechanic shops > in Havana. I wonder if they are banished to the non- tourist areas? I > though I would ask if anyone around had an MG but no luck. I saw a documentary (on PBS perhaps) that discussed the old American cars on Cuba and the things they do to keep them on the road. I think there are a lot of mechanic shops around. . Simon From Aeseeyou at aol.com Tue Apr 13 20:45:46 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 22:45:46 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! Message-ID: In a message dated 4/13/2010 4:13:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, shop at justbrits.com writes: >Funny people those Japanese, I mean to dare say a Miata is better than an MGB or Lotus is HERESY..< Almost as bad as whenWilliam Morris fluffed off the MG by rather than giving them a full pedigree when he formed Morris Motors Ltd....He keep Morris Garages, Ltd. as a separate (Bastard step child like) entity Enter Cecil Kimber whose genius and visionary sense of what would catch on and sell big. Within a few years,1922 he had designed a Morris Special. named appropriately ..."Old Number One" (FC7900) But it wasn't until 1923 when he'd became so tired of playing second fiddle to William Morris's Morris Motors that Cecil Kimber introduced a car that he dropped the Morris name and adopted the sportier name MG for Morris Garages and the rest like they say is History. Colin Chapman was a genius at getting the most out of a smallish engine and made up for it by creating a suspension that would make anyone who drove the Lotus feel like Jackie Stewart who I believe won a few races and Championships in a Lotus. There does that save me from being burned at the stake? -=Safety-Fast! Alberto Escalante From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 06:54:39 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 05:54:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer Message-ID: Wow. Time capsule http://bringatrailer.com/2010/04/13/bat-exclusive-38k-mile-1963-mgb-time-capsule/#more- From ricjohnsondm at msn.com Wed Apr 14 08:20:37 2010 From: ricjohnsondm at msn.com (Ric Johnson) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:20:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! Message-ID: Regarding "it's" and "they're" one just has to take a moment to recall what is being contracted; "it is" and "they are". The more on topic spelling error that always bugs me is "marquee" (the awning or sign over the entrance of a theater, or theatre for those across the pond) being used instead of "marque" (a brand or manufacturer). Premier vs. premiere is also often confused. Ric Johnson Des Moines, Iowa '71 MGB, '74 MGB-GT, '75 MGB From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Apr 14 08:24:27 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:24:27 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] engine question References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> Dry with clutch 1920lb. Gearbox 78lb. Wire axle 123lb. Disc axle 117.5lb. 3 bearing/synch and banjo in all cases, but a good enough guide. ----- Original Message ----- > Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just the > block and head assembled, oil in. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Apr 14 08:36:47 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:36:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! References: Message-ID: <5CC5611EE1C4421F8CF6F8B844341164@paul> Hardly, he couldn't have done it on his own or without the agreement of Nuffield. MG was a properly constituted company in its own right separate to 'The Morris Garages', which was why MG always said "MG doesn't stand for Morris Garages, it stands for itself". If the tax people had thought they were the same there would have been tax penalties. ----- Original Message ----- > But it wasn't until 1923 when he'd became so tired of playing second > fiddle to William Morris's Morris Motors that Cecil Kimber introduced a > car that > he dropped the Morris name and adopted the sportier name MG for Morris > Garages and the rest like they say is History. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Apr 14 08:29:09 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:29:09 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] windshield bits help needed References: <20100413.113932.22512.0@webmail19.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <785D0DDFADBB4290A9CD4FE8E1A7EFAB@paul> The door won't hurt, it is inevitable that water will get in past the drop glass which is where there should be a plastic membrane behind the trim panel and drain holes in the bottom. Eight hours to replace GT screen and seal is par for the course for a professional with experience of them. Glass only i.e. old rubber seal can be done in a couple of hours. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Sunday I was looking over my GT and found to my dismay that the rubber > for > the one vent window was splitting. Rubber on the other was like new. Both > pieces are two years old. Replacing this was not fun at the time and it's > not > likely to be fun in the future, but if cracking continues so that water > can > get into the door, it will be necessary to replace it, again. From don at napanet.net Wed Apr 14 09:51:40 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:51:40 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> Curious, what do you other MG guys think of this car and this price? Are early MGBs going to replace '57 Chevies as the new cool car to own? I have been searching for a steel-dash B roadster for too long now. Seems like the spiraling upward prices are always just ahead of my idea of value. Maybe I bought too many MGBs back in the '70s and '80s with bad clutches, otherwise nearly perfect, for a few hundred bucks. Don Scott Calistoga, CA 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT (selling) 2001 Miata SE BRG 63-67 MGB (searching) At 05:54 AM 04/14/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >Wow. Time capsule >http://bringatrailer.com/2010/04/13/bat-exclusive-38k-mile-1963-mgb-time-capsule/#more- >_______________________________________________ From Aeseeyou at aol.com Wed Apr 14 09:57:16 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:57:16 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! Message-ID: <153ae.65025fcb.38f73fdc@aol.com> In a message dated 4/14/2010 7:37:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, _paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk_ (mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk) writes: "Hardly, he couldn't have done it on his own or without the agreement of Nuffield". Paul, May I ask your opinion as a Brit..What do you feel prompted William Morris' by then a highly respectable Industrialist and Automotive Giant to want to buy a Lordship title thus becoming Lord Nuffield in his latter years? -=Safety-Fast! Alberto Escalante California, USA From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 09:59:30 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:59:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> Message-ID: Dry with clutch 1920 lbs? This has to be wrong for the weight of the engine. On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 7:24 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Dry with clutch 1920lb. Gearbox 78lb. Wire axle 123lb. Disc axle > 117.5lb. 3 bearing/synch and banjo in all cases, but a good enough guide. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just the >> block and head assembled, oil in. >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 14 09:55:27 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 08:55:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My pet peeve (not usually distinguishable in the email format) is the use of the straight "typewriter" apostrophe rather than the curly proper apostrophe in logos, movie posters, and on trade signs, such as for "Knucklehead's Sports Bar" and such (a similar misuse of straight quote marks is also seen, for instance in this message ). I would expect, when one is spending thousands or milions of dollars on a promotional campaign, one would employ a designer that understands basic typographic conventions; but frequently that is not the case. The thing about this is that it is not a matter of determining when to use each version -- the straight version is NEVER correct, unless one is actually using a typewriter, which only has the one key for mechanical reasons. Why the computer keyboard retains the typewriter key mapping is one of those inexplicable historical carryovers that defies all logic. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires P.S. I should point out that the straight versions are also incorrect even used as abbreviations for "inches" and "feet" -- those characters reside elsewhere on the computer keyboard (though damned if I can remember where -- I have to look it up each time), and in the typographers job case. on 4/14/10 7:20 AM, Ric Johnson at ricjohnsondm at msn.com wrote: > Regarding "it's" and "they're" one just has to take a moment to recall what is > being contracted; "it is" and "they are". The more on topic spelling error > that always bugs me is "marquee" (the awning or sign over the entrance of a > theater, or theatre for those across the pond) being used instead of "marque" > (a brand or manufacturer). Premier vs. premiere is also often confused. > > Ric Johnson > Des Moines, Iowa > '71 MGB, '74 MGB-GT, '75 MGB From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Apr 14 10:00:46 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:00:46 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! References: Message-ID: 'Marquee' in the UK is a tent-like construction for garden parties, weddings etc. The American usage puzzled me when I first came across the early Windoze screen saver. ----- Original Message ----- > ... "marquee" (the awning or sign over the entrance of a > theater, or theatre for those across the pond) From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 14 10:02:43 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:02:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> Message-ID: You surely don't mean the engine, transmission and clutch weigh 1920 pounds? That is more like the weight of the whole car. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/14/10 7:24 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > Dry with clutch 1920lb. Gearbox 78lb. Wire axle 123lb. Disc axle 117.5lb. > 3 bearing/synch and banjo in all cases, but a good enough guide. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just the >> block and head assembled, oil in. From shop at justbrits.com Wed Apr 14 10:29:43 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:29:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC5ED77.1060404@justbrits.com> << The more on topic spelling error that always bugs me is "marquee" (the awning or sign over the entrance of a theater, or theatre for those across the pond) being used instead of "marque" (a brand or manufacturer). Premier vs. premiere is also often confused. >> Whilst totally agreeing Ric, I believe that the absolute WORST is "Concours" & "Concourse" which have ZERO relationship !!! LOL I DO wish that I had Concours Cars but have ZERO desire to have a Shopping Mall Car !!!! LOL Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From shop at justbrits.com Wed Apr 14 10:55:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:55:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer In-Reply-To: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> References: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <4BC5F393.4090701@justbrits.com> << ...otherwise nearly perfect, for a few hundred bucks. >> Don, whilst memories ARE a WONDERFUL thing, unfortunately that is ALL they are now !! Your [and mine] days like that ARE now 'history'!! The "few hundred" has been replaced with a "few thousand" -:(-:( -:) !! Ed From shop at justbrits.com Wed Apr 14 11:01:17 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:01:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: References: <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4BC5F4DD.2000801@justbrits.com> << From the door it looks like a TR2/3 maybe ?? >> "Swoop" doesn't look "deep" enough to me, Barrie ?!? MJB, your .05 pls -:) -:) !! From paul at ece.rochester.edu Wed Apr 14 11:02:33 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:02:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> Message-ID: ????? this is confusing as hell >Dry with clutch 1920lb. Gearbox 78lb. Wire axle 123lb. Disc axle >117.5lb. 3 bearing/synch and banjo in all cases, but a good enough >guide. > >----- Original Message ----- >>Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, >>just the block and head assembled, oil in. >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From shop at justbrits.com Wed Apr 14 11:03:07 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:03:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4BC5F54B.7070904@justbrits.com> << But back to MG things.......I forgot to mention that I saw no mechanic shops in Havana. >> Did you locate our "missing MGer", Barrie ?? Ed From shop at justbrits.com Wed Apr 14 11:29:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:29:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> Message-ID: <4BC5FB8B.3080905@justbrits.com> << Dry with clutch 1920 lbs? This has to be wrong for the weight of the engine. >> Yer right, Rick. My Healey "lump" does NOT weigh THAT much !! From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Apr 14 11:33:48 2010 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:33:48 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! Message-ID: <1c249.4e4ab48a.38f7567c@aol.com> Not an internet thing, but I do wish that people would learn to pronounce 'marque', as in make of car and stop saying it like it was a movie theatre adjunct ('marquee'). Bill In a message dated 4/14/2010 10:30:52 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, shop at justbrits.com writes: Whilst totally agreeing Ric, I believe that the absolute WORST is "Concours" & "Concourse" which have ZERO relationship !!! LOL I DO wish that I had Concours Cars but have ZERO desire to have a Shopping Mall Car !!!! LOL From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Apr 14 11:38:04 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:38:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <440540.96418.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Not sure my reply ever made it back to the list...... But take a look here - http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/forums/post/8073.aspx Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Malcolm Jeffcock To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, April 13, 2010 11:40:27 AM Subject: [Mgs] engine question Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just the block and head assembled, oil in. Malcolm _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 14 11:39:27 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:39:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer In-Reply-To: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: The consensus seemed to be that wasn't a bad price. I mean, for some reason there have always been plenty of 79-80 Bs with ultra-low miles. I think people thought they would be collector items as the "last MG", and stashed them away. But to find a steel-dash car with low miles is truly unusual. My experience is similar to Don's -- the supply of good, solid, unrestored Mark I Bs seemed to have dried up back in the late 80s. There are nicely restored cars around, and the occasion rustbucket or basket case, but you never see a relatively untouched car in any kind of decent condition. I don't think it has anything to do with mass appeal (57 Chevy analogy). The appeal among just MG or LBC "insiders" justifies the price. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/14/10 8:51 AM, don at don at napanet.net wrote: > Curious, what do you other MG guys think of this car and this > price? Are early MGBs going to replace '57 Chevies as the new cool > car to own? > > I have been searching for a steel-dash B roadster for too long > now. Seems like the spiraling upward prices are always just ahead of > my idea of value. Maybe I bought too many MGBs back in the '70s and > '80s with bad clutches, otherwise nearly perfect, for a few hundred bucks. > > Don Scott > Calistoga, CA > > 1962 MGA Mk II > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 2001 Miata SE BRG > 63-67 MGB (searching) > > > > > At 05:54 AM 04/14/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >> Wow. Time capsule >> http://bringatrailer.com/2010/04/13/bat-exclusive-38k-mile-1963-mgb-time-caps >> ule/#more- From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 12:17:53 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:17:53 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] engine question In-Reply-To: References: <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> Message-ID: But on the other hand, it sure make me feel studly for being able to pick up 640 lbs the other weekend. I didn't know my own strength. Rick On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 9:02 AM, Max Heim wrote: > You surely don't mean the engine, transmission and clutch weigh 1920 > pounds? > > That is more like the weight of the whole car. > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 4/14/10 7:24 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > > > Dry with clutch 1920lb. Gearbox 78lb. Wire axle 123lb. Disc axle > 117.5lb. > > 3 bearing/synch and banjo in all cases, but a good enough guide. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> Does anyone know the weight of an MGB engine--no manifolds/carbs, just > the > >> block and head assembled, oil in. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 12:23:16 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:23:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer In-Reply-To: <4BC5F393.4090701@justbrits.com> References: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> <4BC5F393.4090701@justbrits.com> Message-ID: There are still out there but few and further between. A few months ago I gave my '67 B to my best friend. It was complete but in pieces. Some assembly required. Sound body tub with some slight rust on the sills. He is like a kid in a candy store. Made me happy to be able to do this for him. A driver for $500? Just a memory. This car in particular has a higher than possibly normal price due to the low miles, 2 owners, and full documentation. Rick On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 9:55 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << ...otherwise nearly perfect, for a few hundred bucks. >> > > Don, whilst memories ARE a WONDERFUL thing, > unfortunately that is ALL they are now !! > > Your [and mine] days like that ARE now 'history'!! > > The "few hundred" has been replaced with a "few > thousand" -:(-:( -:) !! > > Ed > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From redscirocco at hotmail.com Wed Apr 14 13:06:23 2010 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:06:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: <4BC5F4DD.2000801@justbrits.com> References: , <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> ,<4BC5F4DD.2000801@justbrits.com> Message-ID: I thought I remembered that being identified as an MG Midget. According to a post by Dan Strohl on the Hemmings blog, it is a 1974 Midget. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2009/04/18/four-links-even-more-old-dealer ship-photos-homemade-wall-of-death-cars-by-rail-wooden-mg/ If you google "wood bodied MG Midget British Invasion" you'll find some documents indicating that there was, indeed, a wood bodied 1974 MG Midget at one of the recent British Invasion events, held in Stowe, VT. P.S., anyone planning to go to this year's British Invasion? Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT > Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:01:17 -0500 > From: shop at justbrits.com > CC: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood > > << From the door it looks like a TR2/3 maybe ?? >> > > "Swoop" doesn't look "deep" enough to me, Barrie ?!? > > MJB, your .05 pls -:) -:) !! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From redscirocco at hotmail.com Wed Apr 14 13:51:57 2010 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:51:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: <4BC5F4DD.2000801@justbrits.com> References: , <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> ,<4BC5F4DD.2000801@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Forgot to add a link to the British Invasion page for the Midget Woody (no porn content, I swear.) http://www.britishinvasion.com/2001gallery/classic5.html > Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:01:17 -0500 > From: shop at justbrits.com > CC: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood > > << From the door it looks like a TR2/3 maybe ?? >> > > "Swoop" doesn't look "deep" enough to me, Barrie ?!? > > MJB, your .05 pls -:) -:) !! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Wed Apr 14 14:15:29 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:15:29 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer In-Reply-To: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> References: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D6EB@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Considering the age and lack of use, I would think it is kind of pricey but then I buy a car to drive, not to look at. It may still require a lot of work to replace aging items like rubber components, whether it be for driving or to look pretty at a car show. It still comes down to what kind of work it needs (and how much that would cost). Steel dash roadsters are still available and prices vary heavily depending on condition and location. My son obtained two since moving to Oregon a few years ago, a 66 and a 64. I am currently restoring the 64 which sat in a garage since 1981. Body is good but I had to undo a few old DPO modifications and still working to make it roadworthy again. A 65 B has come up on Craigslist in Portland, Oregon a couple of times this year for $800, most recently last month. The pictures looked good but I suspect (for that price) that it has some serious rust. I just tried looking for it and found this one, certainly better shape I would hope and still a driver: http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1691251516.html I have seen the early MGBs priced anywhere from $500 - $25000 depending on condition (sell price which may not be the same as sold price). I would think finding something in California wouldn't be a problem depending on your needs but still may require travel. I couldn't find anything anywhere close to where I live (Montana) - my 67 BGT I got from an owner in Colorado, about 500 miles away and my 72B was bought in Kansas, about 1200 miles away. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 9:52 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer Curious, what do you other MG guys think of this car and this price? Are early MGBs going to replace '57 Chevies as the new cool car to own? I have been searching for a steel-dash B roadster for too long now. Seems like the spiraling upward prices are always just ahead of my idea of value. Maybe I bought too many MGBs back in the '70s and '80s with bad clutches, otherwise nearly perfect, for a few hundred bucks. Don Scott Calistoga, CA 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT (selling) 2001 Miata SE BRG 63-67 MGB (searching) From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Apr 14 16:02:31 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:02:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood In-Reply-To: References: , <4BC3B44B.9000407@justbrits.com> ,<4BC5F4DD.2000801@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <460394.91122.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> That's probably the one I saw at the Cape Cod show several years ago, then. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Mike Eldred To: shop at justbrits.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, April 14, 2010 3:51:57 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood Forgot to add a link to the British Invasion page for the Midget Woody (no porn content, I swear.) http://www.britishinvasion.com/2001gallery/classic5.html > Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:01:17 -0500 > From: shop at justbrits.com > CC: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Please tell me that's not an MGA under that wood > > << From the door it looks like a TR2/3 maybe ?? >> > > "Swoop" doesn't look "deep" enough to me, Barrie ?!? > > MJB, your .05 pls -:) -:) !! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From barrie at look.ca Wed Apr 14 17:31:35 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 19:31:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! In-Reply-To: <4BC5F54B.7070904@justbrits.com> References: <4BB7CC5F.8070802@bradakis.com> <4BC5F54B.7070904@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed, Not a sign - and I did not find any place that may know about such things as MGs..............mind you the rum did not help, nor the cigar smoke! At 01:03 PM 4/14/2010, Shop at \" Just Brits \" wrote: ><< But back to MG things.......I forgot to mention that I saw no >mechanic shops in Havana. >> > >Did you locate our "missing MGer", Barrie ?? > >Ed >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca From mark at bradakis.com Wed Apr 14 20:50:35 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 20:50:35 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Random musings Message-ID: <4BC67EFB.3070403@bradakis.com> Poor Paul, he makes a simple mistake with the correct usage of 'their' and in a moment of mirth I basically hang a grammatical albatross around his neck. I'll have to make it up to him and offer a year's free subscription to any and all of the Team.Net lists he desires. Sure, I'm a fairly well educated sort of fellow, and I don't like it when folks use 'lite' and 'nite' as if they were real words. I get annoyed when people abbreviate, say, 1966 as 66' instead of doing it properly. Or when I hear folks pronounce 'marque' as mar-key. And don't forget 'site' and 'sight' or the correct usage of 'between' and 'among' - there are plenty of nits ripe for the picking. And we all know English is a strictly structured language and there is no difference in usage in New Delhi, Brisbane, Boston, Glasgow or Liverpool - it is all the same, right? This off topic discussion, though, does strike a resonant chord that hearkens back to the early days of Team.Net. There used to be the British car list and the autocross list. Folks would subscribe to the SOL ( Scions of Lucas) and get annoyed. Some MG people wanted less Triumph talk. Some Healey people didn't want to hear about either. Some folks wanted to offer discussions about odds and ends that were not strictly car related. The thing to do seemed to be spawning off lists that were more focused. Those that wanted only Spridget discussion could subscribe to just the spridget list. Those that wanted to be part of a broader focus could stay subscribed to the "main" British car list and subscribe to spridgets, as well as triumphs and mgs. If so inclined, check out the thread at: http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/british-cars/2010-04/msg00007.html In the long run, has it been good or bad for Team.Net? At any rate, enough rambling for now, I'll just sip my wine and be quiet. mjb. From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Apr 15 03:16:27 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:16:27 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Today's bring a trailer In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D6EB@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <20100414162139.E25EF24DB93@mail.napanet.net> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D6EB@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: Apparently the spare tyre in the boot is still the same one it arrived from the dealer with. A nice period accessory, but I certainly wouldn't want to have to use it, even in an emergency!!! Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Apr 15 03:44:22 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:44:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Heading further off-topic into peerages (was Re: Their back!!) Message-ID: "May I ask your opinion as a Brit..What do you feel prompted William Morris' by then a highly respectable Industrialist and Automotive Giant to want to buy a Lordship title thus becoming Lord Nuffield in his latter years?" I'm not the Brit you asked, but I'm a Brit and I'll answer... Admittedly, there has been the odd scandal and dubious practice, but it is generally the case that you cannot just "buy" yourself a peerage in the UK. Peerages are awarded for service to your country - this may be by charitable activity, artistic or sporting achievement, business or industry that creates wealth and employment, military achievement, political activity etc. etc. Yes, there are ways and means, and it's far from perfect. For instance, making large donations to a political party has been known to help. As has making large donations to charity. (And far too many politicians and civil servants get one). So being rich and giving some of your money away can influence a peerage. Still, it would be unfair and wrong to assume someone "bought" their title until you had a good reason to believe it. I know little about William Morris' peerage in particular, other than what I've just this second read on Wikipedia - if anyone has specific information, I'd be fascinated to see it. However, I've no doubt he'd be in line for a title on the basis of creating a substantial industrial company, rescuing other bankrupt companies (e.g. Wolseley), and providing employment for many, wealth for the nation, and a widely exported product. He wouldn't need to buy one. Interesting to note that his most major charitable activity, the creation of the Nuffield Foundation (a substantial educational charity, founded an Oxford college, and I remember my physics textbooks at school being published by them!), came 5 years AFTER his highest title (Viscount) was endowed, and so you can say with certainty he didn't make the foundation in order to influence any peerage decision. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Apr 15 03:55:31 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:55:31 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Random musings In-Reply-To: <4BC67EFB.3070403@bradakis.com> References: <4BC67EFB.3070403@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Personally, as long as the main focus stays on stuff related to our cars, I'm quite entertained by the odd off-topic excursion. I don't think I'd subscribe to a purely off-topic list, because a) it'd be far too random b) it's more fun tossing these things around with people you sort of feel you know, virtual friends. And that virtual friendship comes through the car stuff. It's great that we can have this stuff and it seems that people never (or at least rarely) take it too personally or get too riled and stomp off in a sulk, it usually remains good-natured. I get more than enough e-mail with the MG list, and the Spitfires list (which I still subscribe to, something like 7 years after the death of Daffy the Spitfire!), couldn't cope with belonging to any more with a wider catchment! To answer Mark's basic question, I'd say it's been a good thing to fragment into separate lists. But then, I've only been using Team.net for just over a decade, so I don't remember when there was just the two lists! Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From david_breneman at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 07:56:23 2010 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 06:56:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Heading further off-topic into peerages (was Re: Their back!!) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <984180.18074.qm@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Thu, 4/15/10, Richard Gosling wrote: > However, > I've no doubt he'd be in > line for a title on the basis of creating a substantial > industrial company, > rescuing other bankrupt companies (e.g. Wolseley), and > providing employment > for many, wealth for the nation, and a widely exported > product. He wouldn't need to buy one. In today's political climate, people like this are called the "Evil Rich" and made the scapegoats for the failed policies of incompetent government leaders. From Aeseeyou at aol.com Thu Apr 15 08:38:28 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:38:28 EDT Subject: [Mgs] then came BMC and British-Leyland! (was Re: Their back!!) Message-ID: <56653.7738b126.38f87ee4@aol.com> Rich, Yet Sir William Lyons was Knighted for designing the incredible Jaguar DOHC six cylinder....among other great little gems like the SS-90/SS-100's the Mk series the XK's and XKE and XJ's, etc. In fact I myself own an XJ-6L Series II and its a wonderful car and highly innovative...Alas, the BMC and British-Leyland eras effectively destroyed much of the uniqueness of British Motoring, IMHO... Respectfully, Alberto Escalante In a message dated 4/15/2010 2:44:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rbgosling at googlemail.com writes: "May I ask your opinion as a Brit..What do you feel prompted William Morris' by then a highly respectable Industrialist and Automotive Giant to want to buy a Lordship title thus becoming Lord Nuffield in his latter years?" I'm not the Brit you asked, but I'm a Brit and I'll answer... I know little about William Morris' peerage in particular, He wouldn't need to buy one. (But he did--AE) Interesting to note that his most major charitable activity, the creation of the Nuffield Foundation (a substantial educational charity, founded an Oxford college, and I remember my physics textbooks at school being published by them!), came 5 years AFTER his highest title (Viscount) was endowed, and so you can say with certainty he didn't make the foundation in order to influence any peerage decision. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Apr 15 08:51:07 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:51:07 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] then came BMC and British-Leyland! (was Re: Their back!!) In-Reply-To: <56653.7738b126.38f87ee4@aol.com> References: <56653.7738b126.38f87ee4@aol.com> Message-ID: "I know little about William Morris' peerage in particular, He wouldn't need to buy one. (But he did--AE)" Do you have more detail on this Alberto? I am curious. As I said, you can't simply go and buy a title, there's no price list. If he did "buy" his title, there must have been some sort of underhand subterfuge going on... Richard From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Apr 15 08:49:12 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:49:12 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Their back!! References: <153ae.65025fcb.38f73fdc@aol.com> Message-ID: Who says he bought it? Some people did buy titles as it was the only way they were going to get them. As well as being a successful industrialist Nuffield donated 30 million Sterling (those values, not today's) to charitable causes. He was created a Baronet in 1929, Baron Nuffield in 1934, and a Viscount in 1938. He didn't die until 1963. ----- Original Message ----- > May I ask your opinion as a Brit..What do you feel prompted William > Morris' > by then a highly respectable Industrialist and Automotive Giant to want to > buy a Lordship title thus becoming Lord Nuffield in his latter years? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Apr 15 08:50:15 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:50:15 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] engine question References: <019f01cadb1f$a470de90$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> <8692245A480A4E5F831D4BA8483DB999@paul> Message-ID: Slipped a line, that's the car! Engine is 358! ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Ewald To: Paul Hunt Cc: Malcolm Jeffcock ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 4:59 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine question Dry with clutch 1920 lbs? This has to be wrong for the weight of the engine. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Apr 15 09:06:39 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:06:39 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Random musings References: <4BC67EFB.3070403@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Written, maybe (or at least intended to be) but certainly not as spoken. I asked a scrap metal collector and his mate today if there were a number of them collecting as the same trumpet and incomprehensible loudspeaker announcement is used where my Mother lives 40 miles away. one of them replied "No, there's only two on we", a classic Black Country expression meaning 'two of us'. http://www.bbc.co.uk/blackcountry/features/2002/12/accents/black_country_jokes.shtml PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... And we all know English is a strictly structured > language and there is no difference in usage in New Delhi, Brisbane, > Boston, Glasgow or Liverpool - it is all the same, right? From markwisenc at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 09:39:25 2010 From: markwisenc at gmail.com (Mark Wise) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:39:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump Message-ID: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> I wrote in a couple weeks ago asking about getting my 1980 MGB back on the road. My father is here and we started some trouble shooting this morning. Problem #1: there is no charge coming from the coil to the plugs, but there is power going to the coil. Fortunately, I have an extra coil in my "box of parts", so we're going to swap that in and see if that addresses that problem. Problem #2: the fuel pump isn't pumping. There is power getting to the fuel pump. I'd love to get a new pump sooner than later, to install it while I have some help. Any suggestions for an aftermarket fuel pump that I could buy at a local shop (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc.) rather than wait for mail order? Thanks! - Mark -- Mark Wise Raleigh, NC markwisenc at gmail.com From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Apr 15 10:25:35 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:25:35 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> Message-ID: Problem #2 - Try hitting the pump with a hammer. If that doesn't work (or if the pump stops again) take it off and inspect the points on it. Good chance they just need a sort-out and all will be well again. Aftermarket pumps have their own issues (e.g. supplying too much pressure, ticking constantly rather than stopping after a few ticks, needing a return pipe to the tank for excess fuel that has been pumped but not burned in the engine), so you are as well spending a bit of time trying to fix the old one before you head down the replacement route. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From barrie at look.ca Thu Apr 15 10:06:49 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:06:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Random musings In-Reply-To: <4BC67EFB.3070403@bradakis.com> References: <4BC67EFB.3070403@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark, Splitting the list into marques (pronounced "marks") was a great idea - even splitting MGs up too. At 10:50 PM 4/14/2010, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >Poor Paul, he makes a simple mistake with the correct usage of 'their' and in >a moment of mirth I basically hang a grammatical albatross around his neck. >I'll have to make it up to him and offer a year's free subscription >to any and all >of the Team.Net lists he desires. > >Sure, I'm a fairly well educated sort of fellow, and I don't like it >when folks >use 'lite' and 'nite' as if they were real words. I get annoyed when people >abbreviate, say, 1966 as 66' instead of doing it properly. Or when I hear >folks pronounce 'marque' as mar-key. And don't forget 'site' and 'sight' >or the correct usage of 'between' and 'among' - there are plenty of nits >ripe for the picking. And we all know English is a strictly structured >language and there is no difference in usage in New Delhi, Brisbane, >Boston, Glasgow or Liverpool - it is all the same, right? > >This off topic discussion, though, does strike a resonant chord that hearkens >back to the early days of Team.Net. There used to be the British car list and >the autocross list. Folks would subscribe to the SOL ( Scions of Lucas) and >get annoyed. Some MG people wanted less Triumph talk. Some Healey people >didn't want to hear about either. Some folks wanted to offer >discussions about >odds and ends that were not strictly car related. > >The thing to do seemed to be spawning off lists that were more focused. >Those >that wanted only Spridget discussion could subscribe to just the >spridget list. >Those that wanted to be part of a broader focus could stay subscribed to the >"main" British car list and subscribe to spridgets, as well as >triumphs and mgs. >If so inclined, check out the thread at: > >http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/british-cars/2010-04/msg00007.html > >In the long run, has it been good or bad for Team.Net? > > >At any rate, enough rambling for now, I'll just sip my wine and be quiet. > >mjb. >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 11:34:05 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:34:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> Message-ID: <225425.87648.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark, I installed a generic pump last year in my '76B and it has worked fine. You just need to make sure that you get a pump that supplies the right pressure - I want to say it is around 3.5 PSI that you need, and the pump I bought handled from 2.5 to 4.0 PSI. There is a higher-pressure one as well, so just check that. I bought mine at AutoZone. Here is a picture of it installed - http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P6140065.jpg I want to say it was around $40. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Mark Wise To: Mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, April 15, 2010 11:39:25 AM Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump I wrote in a couple weeks ago asking about getting my 1980 MGB back on the road. My father is here and we started some trouble shooting this morning. Problem #1: there is no charge coming from the coil to the plugs, but there is power going to the coil. Fortunately, I have an extra coil in my "box of parts", so we're going to swap that in and see if that addresses that problem. Problem #2: the fuel pump isn't pumping. There is power getting to the fuel pump. I'd love to get a new pump sooner than later, to install it while I have some help. Any suggestions for an aftermarket fuel pump that I could buy at a local shop (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc.) rather than wait for mail order? Thanks! - Mark -- Mark Wise Raleigh, NC markwisenc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From redscirocco at hotmail.com Thu Apr 15 12:20:58 2010 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:20:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> Message-ID: I agree with the advice to look at the old pump first, assuming it's the correct SU pump. If tapping it with a wrench handle doesn't work, take the plastic cover off and slide a piece of rough paper or even a fine grade of emery paper back and forthe between the points, and I bet it will fire right up. It will be less work than replacing it with an aftermarket pump. When you replace the plastic cover, don't forget to wrap it with electrical tape at the point where the cover and the body of the pump meet to keep out the grime. Even in the unlikely event that your SU pump needs a rebuild, it's a simple process, and if you go to the University Motors Web site, John Twist has a free YouTube video that will show you how to do it. Of course, you'll have to wait for shipping unless you have a supplier close by. My '73 Midget came to me with an aftermarket fuel pump and I just dont like it. Runs all the time. Needed a fuel pressure regulator to keep the carb from flooding. Best of luck! -Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT '73 Midget '54 MT TF > Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:39:25 -0400 > From: markwisenc at gmail.com > To: Mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump > > I wrote in a couple weeks ago asking about getting my 1980 MGB back on > the road. My father is here and we started some trouble shooting this > morning. > > Problem #1: there is no charge coming from the coil to the plugs, but > there is power going to the coil. Fortunately, I have an extra coil in > my "box of parts", so we're going to swap that in and see if that > addresses that problem. > > Problem #2: the fuel pump isn't pumping. There is power getting to the > fuel pump. I'd love to get a new pump sooner than later, to install it > while I have some help. Any suggestions for an aftermarket fuel pump > that I could buy at a local shop (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc.) rather than > wait for mail order? > > Thanks! > > - Mark > > -- > > > Mark Wise > Raleigh, NC > > markwisenc at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From rocknatural at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 13:00:48 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:00:48 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BC76260.4060107@gmail.com> Mark Wise wrote: > I wrote in a couple weeks ago asking about getting my 1980 MGB back on > the road. My father is here and we started some trouble shooting this > morning. > > Problem #1: there is no charge coming from the coil to the plugs, but > there is power going to the coil. Fortunately, I have an extra coil in > my "box of parts", so we're going to swap that in and see if that > addresses that problem. > Make sure the little flexible ground wire, connected between the distributor body and the base plate is intact. After enough use, it can break, usually at the spot-weld. Make sure the points are gapped correctly and the timing is right. > Problem #2: the fuel pump isn't pumping. There is power getting to the > fuel pump. I'd love to get a new pump sooner than later, to install it > while I have some help. Any suggestions for an aftermarket fuel pump > that I could buy at a local shop (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc.) rather than > wait for mail order? You can get pumps at mostly any of those sources. It should be under three pounds maximum pressure. You can use a higher pressure pump along with a pressure limiter, but I have found that causes the pumps to fail sooner. Personally, I prefer the beercan shaped pumps over the cubical ones. I like the ones with a two-year guarantee. (Keep the papers in a safe place where you can find them if it fails). -Rocky Frisco -- From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 14:50:13 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:50:13 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <4BC76260.4060107@gmail.com> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> <4BC76260.4060107@gmail.com> Message-ID: A 1980 car with points? Not in the US unless it was backdated by a previous owner. While coils can fail, usually the point of failure is the switching circuit (points, magnetic pickup, optical pick up what ever) Rick On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 12:00 PM, The Roxter wrote: > Mark Wise wrote: > >> I wrote in a couple weeks ago asking about getting my 1980 MGB back on the >> road. My father is here and we started some trouble shooting this morning. >> >> Problem #1: there is no charge coming from the coil to the plugs, but >> there is power going to the coil. Fortunately, I have an extra coil in my >> "box of parts", so we're going to swap that in and see if that addresses >> that problem. >> >> > Make sure the little flexible ground wire, connected between the > distributor body and the base plate is intact. > After enough use, it can break, usually at the spot-weld. Make sure the > points are gapped correctly and the timing is right. From vainent at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 19:22:23 2010 From: vainent at comcast.net (vainent) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:22:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted Message-ID: anyone have a clear title and s/n plate for a 64-65 MGB they will part with ? contact me off list vainent at comcast.net From shop at justbrits.com Thu Apr 15 20:24:54 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:24:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC7CA76.3080109@justbrits.com> << anyone have a clear title and s/n plate for a 64-65 MGB they will part with ? >> Might, vainent. Pls write me direct tomorrow at: kaylore at fbi.gov. Happy yo assist !! Ed From ddarby at centurytel.net Thu Apr 15 21:58:12 2010 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:58:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Waaaaaay off list! Subject: [Mgs] title wanted anyone have a clear title and s/n plate for a 64-65 MGB they will part with ? contact me off list vainent at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Fri Apr 16 01:18:29 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 01:18:29 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC80F45.1050507@bradakis.com> Oh, THAT kind of title. I thought he wanted us to start calling him Sir Spanner or something. mjb. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Apr 16 01:57:20 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:57:20 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] then came BMC and British-Leyland! (was Re: Their back!!) References: <56653.7738b126.38f87ee4@aol.com> Message-ID: <90618839B2914364833D15000390F9EE@paul> Lloyd George did famously sell peerages in the 1920s to top up his political fund, but that was outlawed in 1925, Nuffield didn't get his first honour until 1929. Alberto obviously has some down on Nuffield, but it is irrational if he can't substantiate his allegations. He also said "William Morris fluffed off the MG by rather than giving them a full pedigree when he formed Morris Motors Ltd.", now correct me if I'm wrong but isn't one of the best things about MG that they *did* have their own pedigree? It was only when Nuffield was convinced (by others) in 1938 to relinquish *personal* ownership of MG (i.e. far from being a "Bastard step child") and Wolseley that they became part of Morris Motors, and that was when the rot started with the loss of their own design office for many years and the requirement to use corporate parts for evermore, even though and in spite of that they continued to produce some wonderful cars, cars that are cherished to this day, unlike many of those of the parent organisation. BMC, BL, Austin Rover et al (including their unions) did indeed destroy the mass British-owned car industry, but that was way after Nuffield's time. As to why he took the name Nuffield when he was honoured (which is a completely different point to accusing him of buying it), you obviously don't understand how peerages and honours work (and there is no reason why you should - until you start attacking those who have received them). Peers of the realm are *required* to take a title when honoured, and are thereafter known by that title instead of their family name. It is usually a place they have had some long or favourite connection with, and in the case of Morris 'Nuffield' was the name of the Oxfordshire village where he had chosen to settle. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > "I know little about William Morris' peerage in particular, He wouldn't > need to buy one. (But he did--AE)" From Aeseeyou at aol.com Fri Apr 16 02:19:35 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 04:19:35 EDT Subject: [Mgs] then came BMC and British-Leyland! (was Re: Their back!!) Message-ID: <47488.7ef9089e.38f97797@aol.com> PaulH, Thank you! I truly enjoyed your clearer vantage point and opinion and appreciated your astute clarification of the "Morris- Nuffield" mystery that has long perplexed me. I most gratefully stand corrected and beg your kind forgiveness as I am only a curious seeker of the truth. Amigos? Cool! -=Safety-Fast! Alberto Escalante 1977 MGB On 4/16/2010 1:00:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote to say; As to why he took the name Nuffield when he was honoured (which is a completely different point to accusing him of buying it), you obviously don't understand how peerages and honours work (and there is no reason why you should - until you start attacking those who have received them). Peers of the realm are *required* to take a title when honoured, and are thereafter known by that title instead of their family name. It is usually a place they have had some long or favourite connection with, and in the case of Morris 'Nuffield' was the name of the Oxfordshire village where he had chosen to settle. PaulH. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Apr 16 02:26:44 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:26:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] '80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> Message-ID: A coil needs both voltage to it and changing current through it to work, the implication is that you have only checked the former. Do you have points or the original electronic ignition system? Points and the original Opus 45DE4 system (although a 1980 wouldn't originally have had that) can be checked statically but the 45DM4 can only be checked dynamically. For the first two turn the engine until it is coming up towards top dead centre on any piston and at any time before about 10 degrees BTDC the points should be closed and the 45DE4 module powering the coil. This is checked by monitoring the coil -ve terminal (white/black) and making sure it is changing between 12v and 0v i.e. a ground as the points close/module energises the coil. At the same time check that there is still voltage on the coil +ve, about 6v in the case of a 1980 with ballasted ignition. If the coil -ve stays at 12v then the circuit through the points is open (wire to points, burnt points, distributor ground wire), or the electronic module is faulty. If it stays at 0v, check the +ve, and if that is switching between 12v and 0v then there is a bad-connection back through the ballast resistance and ignition relay. If it's at 0v all the time it is open-circuit. If it's staying at 6v, but goes up to 12v when you remove the wires from the coil -ve then there is a short-circuit from the points or module. If it stays at 12v as you turn the engine then the coil primary is open-circuit. The 45DM4 only gives a short pulse of duration controlled energy to the coil as the engine is turning, rather than the on and off points being controlled by crank angle, so these voltage changes will only be momentary at the trigger points and not static while the engine is static. The static condition i.e. crank not being turned for a 45DM4 should always be 12v on both coil +ve and -ve. An SU pump not working can be either not clicking at all if the points are burnt or solenoid burnt out, or just clicking once if the points are stuck together because of a spike and pit, or if the movement of the solenoid is not sufficient to throw the points open. Check there is 12v to the pump measured between the two spades on the pump, not just between the 12v spade and a body ground. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Problem #1: there is no charge coming from the coil to the plugs, but > there is power going to the coil. > > Problem #2: the fuel pump isn't pumping. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Apr 16 02:34:40 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:34:40 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted References: Message-ID: Is 'Lord Van Nuys' up for sale? ... ----- Original Message ----- > anyone have a clear title ... From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Apr 16 06:50:27 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:50:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <388834.91341.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Careful that you don't do something illegal. Read this first: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/buying/buy102.htm At 09:22 PM 4/15/2010 -0400, vainent wrote: >anyone have a clear title and s/n plate for a 64-65 MGB they will part with ? >contact me off list vainent at comcast.net From Aeseeyou at aol.com Fri Apr 16 07:54:51 2010 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:54:51 EDT Subject: [Mgs] title wanted Message-ID: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> PaulH, The Chinese probably hold the title to Van Nuys as collateral for some of the Billions we've borrowed from them to finance our continuous boondoggle wars and gunboat Diplomacy we'vre mired into overseas trying to stick our meddling Yankee nose's in everybody else's business, i.e Trying to tell everyone how to live. Even what religion to practice we are so provincial it's not even funny anymore. We should have learned a valuable lesson in history that in almost every instance Imperialists always end being despised and loathed. At one time the USA was a highly revered and respected nation nowadays EVERYBODY hates even those whose countries we support financially,ergo, the huge loan we've accrued! Someday, inshallah ,we'll learn you can never bully nor buy friendship only build it through trust and understanding. Ironically Great Britain has huge holdings here in the USA, a little tidbit I learned when I started to do a little research. More Good News is the Indigenous natives (American Indians) are really coming back into their own! And are becoming rich and completely self sufficient! In fact the started off selling little trinkets on the side of the road went back to there natural ways leaving the evils of John Barleycorn, which never set well with the Indian metabolism in the first place. Then they started selling huge amounts of duty free cigarettes by the carton or case. Much cheaper because they didn't need to purchase any Federal Tax stamps..Then Bingo parlors. Now they're into Gaming Casinos much like those in Monte Carlo and Las Vegas..the Mob tried to move in But being the Indians run their own Casinos on their Federal Reservations, that rather dissuaded and made it tough on the Mob to move in. Shalom, Alberto Escalante In a message dated 4/16/2010 2:52:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: Is 'Lord Van Nuys' up for sale? ... ----- Original Message ----- > anyone have a clear title ... From mgbob at juno.com Fri Apr 16 08:42:49 2010 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:42:49 GMT Subject: [Mgs] title wanted Message-ID: <20100416.104249.11544.4@webmail20.vgs.untd.com> This relates to the existence of two cars with same serial number, which is something written about from time to time in Sports Car Market. When the car was crashed and rebuilt on new chassis, yet the bent chassis not destroyed, and another car built from assorted parts on that now-usable chassis, which of the two is entitled to the car #? A club member was sent home by CT Dept Motor Vehicles when he came for first inspection of a hulk-up restoration, the reason being that the ID plate was refastened with obviously-new rivets. DMV did not want to look in the other places for car # to confirm that the ID plate was correct. How was it resolved? By artificially aging and scuffing some rivets, fastening the plate, then going to another inspection station. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Barney Gaylord To: "vainent" , Subject: Re: [Mgs] title wanted Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:50:27 -0500 Careful that you don't do something illegal. Read this first: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/buying/buy102.htm At 09:22 PM 4/15/2010 -0400, vainent wrote: >anyone have a clear title and s/n plate for a 64-65 MGB they will part with ? >contact me off list vainent at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc877aa7e17d2a4bf3st03vuc From ptrmgb at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 09:01:42 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:01:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> References: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> Message-ID: <248E000C-AB2E-4017-AD0B-5090B97F711A@gmail.com> Keep politics out of this list. On Apr 16, 2010, at 8:54 AM, Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > PaulH, > The Chinese probably hold the title to Van Nuys as collateral for some of > the Billions we've borrowed from them to finance our continuous boondoggle From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 10:07:37 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:07:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> References: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> Message-ID: I would just like to point out that the capitol of Van Nuys is about $3.75. Rick On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:54 AM, wrote: > PaulH, > The Chinese probably hold the title to Van Nuys From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Apr 16 10:27:56 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:27:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: <20100416.104249.11544.4@webmail20.vgs.untd.com> References: <20100416.104249.11544.4@webmail20.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <445963.50233.qm@smtp111.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I am intimately familiar with that case, but that's not what I'm getting at, and not what my web page is about. In case you didn't read it or digest it fully, the root of my note is that it is illegal to buy or sell a title and ID plates, but perfectly legitimate to buy a legally registered car and restore it. The devil is in the detail. At 02:42 PM 4/16/2010 +0000, mgbob at juno.com wrote: > This relates to the existence of two cars with same serial > number, which is something written about from time to time in > Sports Car Market. > When the car was crashed and rebuilt on new chassis, yet the bent > chassis not destroyed, and another car built from assorted parts on > that now-usable chassis, which of the two is entitled to the car #? >.... >---------- Original Message ---------- >From: Barney Gaylord >Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:50:27 -0500 > >Careful that you don't do something illegal. Read this first: >http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/buying/buy102.htm > > >At 09:22 PM 4/15/2010 -0400, vainent wrote: > >anyone have a clear title and s/n plate for a 64-65 MGB they will > part with ? > >contact me off list vainent at comcast.net From barrie at look.ca Fri Apr 16 12:11:52 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:11:52 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: References: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> Message-ID: Rick, Do you know that you just exposed yourself to Mark's wrath............ At 12:07 PM 4/16/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >I would just like to point out that the capitol of Van Nuys is about $3.75. >Rick > >On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:54 AM, wrote: > > > PaulH, > > The Chinese probably hold the title to Van Nuys >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie 705--721-9060 From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 12:57:14 2010 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:57:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> Message-ID: <876324.18082.qm@web112120.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Fri, 4/16/10, Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > PaulH, > The Chinese probably hold the title to Van Nuys as > collateral for some of the Billions we've borrowed... > ...their own Casinos on their Federal Reservations, that > rather dissuaded and made it tough on the Mob to move in. Wow, a whole page of rants and not one mention of cars. You might have wanted to mark this "OT". From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 14:16:07 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:16:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted Message-ID: No one has stated the obvious. Check with your Department of Motor Vehicles and they might issue you a new title and list the old one as lost. Jack From mark at bradakis.com Fri Apr 16 18:39:39 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:39:39 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: References: <3d92c.31187c21.38f9c62b@aol.com> Message-ID: <4BC9034B.1020504@bradakis.com> Barrie Robinson wrote: > Rick, > > Do you know that you just exposed yourself to Mark's wrath............ > > At 12:07 PM 4/16/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >> I would just like to point out that the capitol of Van Nuys is about >> $3.75. I thought it was pretty amusing. Verbally no difference, and written down a pun using capitol vs. capital doesn't matter which word you choose. If it is a funny joke, it will be a funny joke. mjb. From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 12:20:19 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 13:20:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Minneapolis and Gatlinburg Patches Message-ID: I was looking through my patches in preparation for having them sewn on a coat. Found one from Indy, but don't have one from Minneapolis or Gatlinburg. Did they exist, and if so would anyone who has one sell it to me? Jack From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sat Apr 17 13:44:13 2010 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:44:13 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted References: <388834.91341.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <88A8F4FA831D4062BF4863FD06EB963C@uw471de61b465c> Nice discussion Barney, In my case it was the other way. Being a real novice, I bought my 1971 BGT in 1990. The car was directly imported from the USA and the seller (local classic trader) sold me the car without any title. I only got the import papers with the car and that was it. It took me several years to get the car roadworthy (4 young kids consumed most time) and at that moment I had to register the BGT in the Netherlands. Although the inspection officer said the car was at a superb condition, he was not able to supply me the Dutch registration papers. I had to show official papers, which had to prove the year of make and where the car had been manufactured. It just happened, that at the same time an officer of the BMIHT http://www.bmiht.co.uk/bmiht/index.htm approached the list for info about all known MG clubs in any country. Having helped the best man with all relative info of the Dutch MG CC, I now could approach him for a quick help. So he sent my quickly my GT's birth certificate, which finally helped me getting the Dutch registration finalised. The GT has the classic registration plate AH-43-24 - a sixties looking title. I hope this story may help novice classic buyers, to have all needed papers accompanied with the classic car you want to buy. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" To: "vainent" ; Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 2:50 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] title wanted > Careful that you don't do something illegal. Read this first: > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/buying/buy102.htm > > > At 09:22 PM 4/15/2010 -0400, vainent wrote: >>anyone have a clear title and s/n plate for a 64-65 MGB they will part >>with ? >>contact me off list vainent at comcast.net From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 15:28:44 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 16:28:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Stumbling / stalling ignition issue? Message-ID: Hi all, I just got back from a trip to and from work. Less than 20 miles each way. At about 10 miles each way, I was getting some stumbling. The terrain varied, slight incline/decline or flat. Speed was constant, sometimes a lift off the throttle for traffic. The symptoms were 3000-3500 rpm, the tach would bounce down to 1500-2000, and then back up. A couple of times it dropped to 1000. It happened 3 times in a row on the trip home, within about 3-4 minutes, so I was ready and paying attention. The ignition light did not come on, ever. I decided after that to get off the highway and take surface roads the last 4 or so miles. And I got another stall at 2000-2500 rpm. I downshifted to 3rd and the car restarted. At a stoplight, the car did stall. It took 20-30 seconds of cranking to start. Normally, the car starts within 10 seconds cold, and 2-3 seconds warm. I got home without further trouble. The car is a 1977 MGB, I have a pertronix distributor, that I put on new last year. A pertronix coil, that's 8-9 years old. Ignition wires are 8-9 years old. Dual SU (HIF) conversion. Alternator replaced to summers ago. I'm in the middle of my second tank of gas for the season, I did put in a can of heat. The oil is fresh, changed last weekend. Oh, as a side note. I used NAPA high milage oil. It's made by Ashland, which is Valvoline. Anyway, it was rated SL/SJ. Not SM. Napa Gold filter. I recently put in a plumbing ball valve in place of the stock heater valve. I don't see any leaking there, but I'll check it again. I do have to pull it apart, I put the valve in backward for the cable to work. I'm going to go and do a fuel delivery test (1 imp qt per minute), and look things up on Paul Hunt's web site. Oh, and check the rotor and cap. What else? Paul. From stargazer1 at cox.net Sat Apr 17 17:21:07 2010 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 16:21:07 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Stumbling / stalling ignition issue? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCA4263.5090907@cox.net> On 4/17/2010 2:28 PM, Paul Root wrote: > Hi all, > I just got back from a trip to and from work. Less than 20 miles each way. At > about 10 miles each way, I was getting some stumbling. > > The terrain varied, slight incline/decline or flat. Speed was constant, > sometimes a lift off the throttle for traffic. > > The symptoms were 3000-3500 rpm, the tach would bounce down to 1500-2000, > and then back up. A couple of times it dropped to 1000. > > It happened 3 times in a row on the trip home, within about 3-4 minutes, so I > was ready and paying attention. The ignition light did not come on, ever. > > I decided after that to get off the highway and take surface roads the last 4 > or so miles. And I got another stall at 2000-2500 rpm. I downshifted to 3rd > and the car restarted. > > At a stoplight, the car did stall. It took 20-30 seconds of cranking to > start. Normally, the car starts within 10 seconds cold, and 2-3 seconds warm. > > I got home without further trouble. > > The car is a 1977 MGB, I have a pertronix distributor, that I put on new last > year. A pertronix coil, that's 8-9 years old. Ignition wires are 8-9 years > old. Dual SU (HIF) conversion. > Alternator replaced to summers ago. > > I'm in the middle of my second tank of gas for the season, I did put in a can > of heat. The oil is fresh, changed last weekend. Oh, as a side note. I used > NAPA high milage oil. It's made by Ashland, which is Valvoline. Anyway, it was > rated SL/SJ. Not SM. Napa Gold filter. > > I recently put in a plumbing ball valve in place of the stock heater valve. I > don't see any leaking there, but I'll check it again. I do have to pull it > apart, I put the valve in backward for the cable to work. > > > I'm going to go and do a fuel delivery test (1 imp qt per minute), and look > things up on Paul Hunt's web site. Oh, and check the rotor and cap. > > What else? > I think I've seen this before..... The bouncing tachometer points to a problem in the low tension circuit. I would look for a loose or poor connection between the distributor and the coil, or between the coil and the rest of the car. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. This goes double for any crimped connectors in the wiring harness. Make sure the connector to the distributor is tight. You may be able to diagnose the problem by connecting a test light to the distributor and wiggling wires. Cheers, Dave Ambrose From rocknatural at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 18:08:34 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:08:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Stumbling / stalling ignition issue? In-Reply-To: <4BCA4263.5090907@cox.net> References: <4BCA4263.5090907@cox.net> Message-ID: <4BCA4D82.5030304@gmail.com> David Ambrose wrote: > On 4/17/2010 2:28 PM, Paul Root wrote: >> Hi all, >> I just got back from a trip to and from work. Less than 20 miles >> each way. At >> about 10 miles each way, I was getting some stumbling. >> >> The terrain varied, slight incline/decline or flat. Speed was >> constant, >> sometimes a lift off the throttle for traffic. >> >> The symptoms were 3000-3500 rpm, the tach would bounce down to >> 1500-2000, >> and then back up. A couple of times it dropped to 1000. >> >> It happened 3 times in a row on the trip home, within about 3-4 >> minutes, so I >> was ready and paying attention. The ignition light did not come on, >> ever. >> >> I decided after that to get off the highway and take surface >> roads the last 4 >> or so miles. And I got another stall at 2000-2500 rpm. I downshifted >> to 3rd >> and the car restarted. >> >> At a stoplight, the car did stall. It took 20-30 seconds of >> cranking to >> start. Normally, the car starts within 10 seconds cold, and 2-3 >> seconds warm. >> >> I got home without further trouble. >> >> The car is a 1977 MGB, I have a pertronix distributor, that I put >> on new last >> year. A pertronix coil, that's 8-9 years old. Ignition wires are 8-9 >> years >> old. Dual SU (HIF) conversion. >> Alternator replaced to summers ago. >> >> I'm in the middle of my second tank of gas for the season, I did >> put in a can >> of heat. The oil is fresh, changed last weekend. Oh, as a side >> note. I used >> NAPA high milage oil. It's made by Ashland, which is Valvoline. >> Anyway, it was >> rated SL/SJ. Not SM. Napa Gold filter. >> >> I recently put in a plumbing ball valve in place of the stock >> heater valve. I >> don't see any leaking there, but I'll check it again. I do have to >> pull it >> apart, I put the valve in backward for the cable to work. >> >> >> I'm going to go and do a fuel delivery test (1 imp qt per >> minute), and look >> things up on Paul Hunt's web site. Oh, and check the rotor and cap. >> >> What else? >> > I think I've seen this before..... > > The bouncing tachometer points to a problem in the low tension > circuit. I would look for a loose or poor connection between the > distributor and the coil, or between the coil and the rest of the car. > Make sure the connections are clean and tight. This goes double for > any crimped connectors in the wiring harness. Make sure the connector > to the distributor is tight. > > You may be able to diagnose the problem by connecting a test light to > the distributor and wiggling wires. Other possibility: Ignition switch. -Rocky Frisco -- From thgun at comporium.net Sat Apr 17 18:47:25 2010 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 20:47:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] braided gas line Message-ID: What is the correct gas line to use for my car? Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 17 20:09:23 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:09:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted In-Reply-To: <88A8F4FA831D4062BF4863FD06EB963C@uw471de61b465c> References: <388834.91341.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <88A8F4FA831D4062BF4863FD06EB963C@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: <470094F9F3E440BABEC7502BC88D8CC0@ranteer.local> I purchased a car this past spring (about a year ago) without a title. she promised me the title up down and sideways and then said she would get title. finally (I'm in Texas) I had to get a bonded title. which means I had to get the car appraised, then pay for a "bond" from an agency to insure the title. in other words, its like an insurance policy in case the real title owner shows up. at least in Texas, its not that hard to get a real title for a car if you don't have one. its just a little more paperwork and $$$ I have also heard, and seen, on the net, you can "buy" a title for just about anything. for example, there was a company in North Carolina that would send you a NC title and plates. you just supply them with the vin and $$. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Hans Duinhoven" Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 2:44 PM To: "vainent" ; ; "BarneyGaylord" Subject: Re: [Mgs] title wanted > Nice discussion Barney, > > In my case it was the other way. > Being a real novice, I bought my 1971 BGT in 1990. > The car was directly imported from the USA and the seller (local classic > trader) sold me the car without any title. > I only got the import papers with the car and that was it. > It took me several years to get the car roadworthy (4 young kids consumed > most time) and at that moment I had to register the BGT in the > Netherlands. > > Although the inspection officer said the car was at a superb condition, he > was not able to supply me the Dutch registration papers. > I had to show official papers, which had to prove the year of make and > where the car had been manufactured. > It just happened, that at the same time an officer of the BMIHT > http://www.bmiht.co.uk/bmiht/index.htm approached the list for info about > all known MG clubs in any country. > Having helped the best man with all relative info of the Dutch MG CC, I > now could approach him for a quick help. So he sent my quickly my GT's > birth certificate, which finally helped me getting the Dutch registration > finalised. The GT has the classic registration plate AH-43-24 - a sixties > looking title. > > I hope this story may help novice classic buyers, to have all needed > papers accompanied with the classic car you want to buy. > > Cheers, > > Hans 71 BGT From shop at justbrits.com Sat Apr 17 20:16:31 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:16:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] braided gas line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCA6B7F.5090302@justbrits.com> << What is the correct gas line to use for my car? >> WHERE, Tom ?? Ed From don at napanet.net Sat Apr 17 21:37:48 2010 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 20:37:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB In-Reply-To: <4BCA4D82.5030304@gmail.com> References: <4BCA4263.5090907@cox.net> <4BCA4D82.5030304@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20100418040837.9A64024DB8F@mail.napanet.net> >just appeared on eBay, '66 black w/ red interior > > >MG : MGB > >MG >: >MGB This isn't quite as pretty as the iris blue one on BaT, but looks about as original, maybe moreso. If I was closer geographically, I'd bid enthusiastically. But, a car like this can have a lot of surprises. I've experienced the car-from-afar love affair and been stiffed twice now. The dream car arrives on the truck or the dock, and my heart sinks as I see hundred dollar bills floating away from me as the car was not what seller claimed it to be. I spoke to a seller of an MGB today who bought his car several years ago on eBay, only to find out after the purchase that the car was a rust bucket and the cost to remedy $7,500. Ouch. I also know of a TR250 buyer who had a similar experience and now has a $30,000 TR250. Don Scott Calistoga, CA 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT (selling) 2001 Miata SE BRG 63-67 MGB (searching) From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 22:58:27 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:58:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB In-Reply-To: <20100418040837.9A64024DB8F@mail.napanet.net> References: <4BCA4263.5090907@cox.net> <4BCA4D82.5030304@gmail.com> <20100418040837.9A64024DB8F@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: remove the luggage rack and this the twin to my sister's car. her's was a '67. Her car is what got me in love with LBCs Rick ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: don Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 8:37 PM Subject: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB To: mgs at autox.team.net >just appeared on eBay, '66 black w/ red interior > >< http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 > >MG : MGB > >< http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 >MG >: >< http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 >MGB This isn't quite as pretty as the iris blue one on BaT, but looks about as original, maybe moreso. If I was closer geographically, I'd bid enthusiastically. But, a car like this can have a lot of surprises. I've experienced the car-from-afar love affair and been stiffed twice now. The dream car arrives on the truck or the dock, and my heart sinks as I see hundred dollar bills floating away from me as the car was not what seller claimed it to be. I spoke to a seller of an MGB today who bought his car several years ago on eBay, only to find out after the purchase that the car was a rust bucket and the cost to remedy $7,500. Ouch. I also know of a TR250 buyer who had a similar experience and now has a $30,000 TR250. Don Scott Calistoga, CA 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT (selling) 2001 Miata SE BRG 63-67 MGB (searching) _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sun Apr 18 03:48:45 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 04:48:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] braided gas line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <743457.64069.qm@smtp110.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> At 08:47 PM 4/17/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >What is the correct gas line to use for my car? >.... See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fs109.htm From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Apr 18 04:59:59 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:59:59 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Stumbling / stalling ignition issue? References: Message-ID: <1C44057C437641EEB4C8BBDD8F4FB488@paul> If the ignition warning light didn't come on it won't be the ignition switch or connections at it, but something else from there to the coil, trigger, and 'points' plate ground wire. If it tends to happen as you are changing the throttle this last is the most likely. If fact do you even have a points plate ground wire? If the Pertronix replaced the 45DM4 ignition system then you have to *add* a ground wire, as that system didn't need one. Without the ground wire the coil current flow is dependant on sliding contacts on the bottom of the points plate, which can give erratic connections as the plate twists under changing vacuum. Other than that if you have a coil with riveted spades these are also a known cause of intermittent connections, later coils have threaded studs and nuts. If it's none of those you will have to replace the Pertronix with points and a condenser as substitution is the only way of diagnosing those. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I just got back from a trip to and from work. Less than 20 miles each way. > At > about 10 miles each way, I was getting some stumbling. From markwisenc at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 07:18:06 2010 From: markwisenc at gmail.com (Mark Wise) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 09:18:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Update -- 80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BCB068E.4020906@gmail.com> All... We were able to repair the ignition and the fuel pump yesterday. Thanks to all of the great advice and suggestions from everyone! However, the car is still having some problems, and we think it's the Z-S carburetor. We have verified that there is fuel getting to the carburetor and the car will spark and run briefly when we use starter fluid but it won't continue to run at all after the starter fluid is out of the system. Any suggestions on where to start looking at the carb (or elsewhere?) to see where the fault might be? Thanks again! Regards, Mark 1980 MGB Raleigh, NC From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 18 08:27:30 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 09:27:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Update -- 80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <4BCB068E.4020906@gmail.com> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> <4BCB068E.4020906@gmail.com> Message-ID: <327694DE222E48D78D8F461E4F865D26@HomePC> Mark, check the diaphragm for any holes/tears. The Z-S is notorious for acting up with only the tiniest of holes. Larry Daniels -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Wise" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 8:18 AM To: Subject: [Mgs] Update -- 80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump All... We were able to repair the ignition and the fuel pump yesterday. Thanks to all of the great advice and suggestions from everyone! However, the car is still having some problems, and we think it's the Z-S carburetor. We have verified that there is fuel getting to the carburetor and the car will spark and run briefly when we use starter fluid but it won't continue to run at all after the starter fluid is out of the system. Any suggestions on where to start looking at the carb (or elsewhere?) to see where the fault might be? Thanks again! Regards, Mark 1980 MGB Raleigh, NC _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Sun Apr 18 11:46:47 2010 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:46:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA high idle Message-ID: <1A4E8E5C-D0FB-4A58-93D9-3953D04A50DD@tampabay.rr.com> List, Friend has been having some probs. lately with her MGA. Latest came overnite when she started it up. It idles up to about 3000 rpm and wouldn't come down preventing her from driving it to a car show. It has driven well prior to this and has a generic "Weber" carb in place of the SU's. I can't help her with that. Is anyone with a Weber type carb able to offer me any ideas on what to look for and hopefully fix? TIA, Dave Houser From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 12:45:45 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:45:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA high idle In-Reply-To: <1A4E8E5C-D0FB-4A58-93D9-3953D04A50DD@tampabay.rr.com> References: <1A4E8E5C-D0FB-4A58-93D9-3953D04A50DD@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: What type of Weber? DGV or DCOE? On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:46 AM, W. David Houser wrote: > List, > Friend has been having some probs. lately with her MGA. Latest came > overnite when she started it up. It idles up to about 3000 rpm and wouldn't > come down preventing her from driving it to a car show. > It has driven well prior to this and has a generic "Weber" carb in place of > the SU's. I can't help her with that. > Is anyone with a Weber type carb able to offer me any ideas on what to look > for and hopefully fix? > TIA, > Dave Houser > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 19 01:42:56 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:42:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Update -- 80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> <4BCB068E.4020906@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1004121120B648D3AA16A5A82D9F5DBD@paul> After cranking for a few moments take one or more plugs out. If fuel is getting through there should be a strong fuel smell. No fuel smell no fuel. If you blow gently into the float chamber vent port while looking at the jet you *should* see fuel bubbling up if there is any in the float chamber and the jet isn't blocked. If they are wet it is flooded, although if you still have the auto choke that is unlikely unless the choke is stuck on. Even if you have a fuel smell if the choke is stuck off there may not be enough to start in cool conditions. ----- Original Message ----- > However, the car is still having some problems, and we think it's the > Z-S carburetor. We have verified that there is fuel getting to the > carburetor and the car will spark and run briefly when we use starter > fluid but it won't continue to run at all after the starter fluid is out > of the system. Any suggestions on where to start looking at the carb > (or elsewhere?) to see where the fault might be? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 19 01:52:58 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:52:58 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA high idle References: <1A4E8E5C-D0FB-4A58-93D9-3953D04A50DD@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: The usual things like cable hanging up, butterfly sticking open. People often say 'vacuum leak' but whilst that *will* cause a higher idle for a given butterfly opening, the idle screw should always be able to slow the idle down to a stall even with a vacuum leak, 'cos the engine can't run on air alone. The only time that won't be the case is if there is an alternative path past the *closed* butterfly, which could happen if the butterfly spindle and bushings are very worn. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Friend has been having some probs. lately with her MGA. Latest came > overnite when she started it up. It idles up to about 3000 rpm and > wouldn't come down preventing her from driving it to a car show. From atweditor at aol.com Mon Apr 19 08:04:37 2010 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:04:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB In-Reply-To: References: <4BCA4263.5090907@cox.net> <4BCA4D82.5030304@gmail.com><20100418040837.9A64024DB8F@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <8CCADE06193C326-1150-2879@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com> This is a nice looking car, but I like his comment about a "missing armrest." What armrest? Not in that vintage. Jay Donoghue 72 B-GT 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Richard Ewald To: don Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 12:58 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB remove the luggage rack and this the twin to my sister's car. her's was a '67. Her car is what got me in love with LBCs Rick ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: don Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 8:37 PM Subject: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB To: mgs at autox.team.net >just appeared on eBay, '66 black w/ red interior > >< http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ss PageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 > >MG : MGB > >< http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ss PageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 >MG >: >< http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ss PageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 >MGB This isn't quite as pretty as the iris blue one on BaT, but looks about as original, maybe moreso. If I was closer geographically, I'd bid enthusiastically. But, a car like this can have a lot of surprises. I've experienced the car-from-afar love affair and been stiffed twice now. The dream car arrives on the truck or the dock, and my heart sinks as I see hundred dollar bills floating away from me as the car was not what seller claimed it to be. I spoke to a seller of an MGB today who bought his car several years ago on eBay, only to find out after the purchase that the car was a rust bucket and the cost to remedy $7,500. Ouch. I also know of a TR250 buyer who had a similar experience and now has a $30,000 TR250. Don Scott Calistoga, CA 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT (selling) 2001 Miata SE BRG 63-67 MGB (searching) _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com From barrie at look.ca Mon Apr 19 08:36:04 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:36:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Update -- 80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <1004121120B648D3AA16A5A82D9F5DBD@paul> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> <4BCB068E.4020906@gmail.com> <1004121120B648D3AA16A5A82D9F5DBD@paul> Message-ID: I have to confess a moment of complete stupidity! This event adds to my previous list of failing to drill out a bolt (because the drill was in reverse), and then not being able to get into reverse (I was using a different gear box pattern). A week or so ago I took my MGB GT V8 out for a spin - went like a dream. Then I decided on another spin but car started, grumbled and died. It did this grumbling until the battery was flat. Fuel flow was fine, no loose wires, nothing untoward. Decided to have it flat bedded to my favourite garage. My friend from up the road came down, we looked at the engine, hummed and harred and he pointed out that the choke was on. Yes, I said because the engine is cold. Try taking the choke off he said. BROOOOM car started and ran fine, albeit had to put a bit of choke on to keep it going 'til it warmed up. So it was just flooded and my brain cells for that thought were out. Sometimes it is the simple things in life that grab you by the proverbials. At 03:42 AM 4/19/2010, Paul Hunt wrote: >After cranking for a few moments take one or more plugs out. If >fuel is getting through there should be a strong fuel smell. No >fuel smell no fuel. If you blow gently into the float chamber vent >port while looking at the jet you *should* see fuel bubbling up if >there is any in the float chamber and the jet isn't blocked. If >they are wet it is flooded, although if you still have the auto >choke that is unlikely unless the choke is stuck on. Even if you >have a fuel smell if the choke is stuck off there may not be enough >to start in cool conditions. > > >----- Original Message ----- >>However, the car is still having some problems, and we think it's the >>Z-S carburetor. We have verified that there is fuel getting to the >>carburetor and the car will spark and run briefly when we use starter >>fluid but it won't continue to run at all after the starter fluid is out >>of the system. Any suggestions on where to start looking at the carb >>(or elsewhere?) to see where the fault might be? >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie 705--721-9060 From PRNDL at sonic.net Mon Apr 19 10:33:20 2010 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:33:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Time Capsule MG Message-ID: <0B984B45-96EA-4866-9D1F-B1931192A1E1@sonic.net> > but I like his comment about a "missing armrest." > What armrest? One of the photos *just* shows the missing driver's door cap. Looks like a nice car for the price. If you like a black MGB. There's also a nice 70 GT for sale in Monterey CA. It's on Craigslist. -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Mon Apr 19 18:25:22 2010 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 20:25:22 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA high idle In-Reply-To: References: <1A4E8E5C-D0FB-4A58-93D9-3953D04A50DD@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: <9AD036E3-E1DF-4C46-9447-8D57E788EFF8@tampabay.rr.com> Listers, Problem solved and thanks to all who offered advice. Seems there is a bracket under this particular carb that the throttle cable got hooked onto and caused the throttle to race on a high idle. Kudos to those who called it. Once that was detected and idle reset to 800rpm, car running just fine as it was before the hang-up. Something simple that was overlooked first time through. Many thanks, Dave On Apr 19, 2010, at 3:52 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > The usual things like cable hanging up, butterfly sticking open. > People often say 'vacuum leak' but whilst that *will* cause a higher > idle for a given butterfly opening, the idle screw should always be > able to slow the idle down to a stall even with a vacuum leak, 'cos > the engine can't run on air alone. The only time that won't be the > case is if there is an alternative path past the *closed* butterfly, > which could happen if the butterfly spindle and bushings are very > worn. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> Friend has been having some probs. lately with her MGA. Latest came >> overnite when she started it up. It idles up to about 3000 rpm and >> wouldn't come down preventing her from driving it to a car show. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Apr 20 07:42:49 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 06:42:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Update -- 80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump In-Reply-To: <4BCB068E.4020906@gmail.com> References: <4BC7332D.20306@gmail.com> <4BCB068E.4020906@gmail.com> Message-ID: <348273.39650.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark, was away for a couple of days, but take a look at these articles, they might help you out.... http://www.sterlingbritishmotoringsociety.org/files/zenith%20stromberg%20tech%20tips.pdf http://www.theautoist.com/zs_water_chokes.htm Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Mark Wise To: Mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, April 18, 2010 9:18:06 AM Subject: [Mgs] Update -- 80 MGB: Faulty coil and fuel pump All... We were able to repair the ignition and the fuel pump yesterday. Thanks to all of the great advice and suggestions from everyone! However, the car is still having some problems, and we think it's the Z-S carburetor. We have verified that there is fuel getting to the carburetor and the car will spark and run briefly when we use starter fluid but it won't continue to run at all after the starter fluid is out of the system. Any suggestions on where to start looking at the carb (or elsewhere?) to see where the fault might be? Thanks again! Regards, Mark 1980 MGB Raleigh, NC _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 10:39:30 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:39:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails Message-ID: Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam. The emails are sent using an email service provider. Their web page is: http://www.mailingmanager.co.uk/email-marketing-contact.php Please ruse the contact information to report the SPAM. I forwarded the email from Kent Collection to the address: support at mailingmanager.co.uk along with appropriate comments. Regards, Simon From ptrmgb at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 13:24:19 2010 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:24:19 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Stumbling / stalling ignition issue? In-Reply-To: References: <1C44057C437641EEB4C8BBDD8F4FB488@paul> Message-ID: It is a whole pertronix distributor. My old dizzy was shot. This was economical. Worked well last year. It does have a 'points' plate ground wire. Screw down on the coil terminals. One of the connectors was suspect. I've replaced it but haven't been back on the road. On Apr 18, 2010 7:11 AM, "Paul Hunt" wrote: If the ignition warning light didn't come on it won't be the ignition switch or connections at it, but something else from there to the coil, trigger, and 'points' plate ground wire. If it tends to happen as you are changing the throttle this last is the most likely. If fact do you even have a points plate ground wire? If the Pertronix replaced the 45DM4 ignition system then you have to *add* a ground wire, as that system didn't need one. Without the ground wire the coil current flow is dependant on sliding contacts on the bottom of the points plate, which can give erratic connections as the plate twists under changing vacuum. Other than that if you have a coil with riveted spades these are also a known cause of intermittent connections, later coils have threaded studs and nuts. If it's none of those you will have to replace the Pertronix with points and a condenser as substitution is the only way of diagnosing those. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > > I just got back from a trip to and from work. Less than 20 miles... From twobees at sprynet.com Tue Apr 20 15:27:49 2010 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:27:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails Message-ID: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> "Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam." All spam should be this interesting. So, no, I won't be reporting them as spam. Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the wrong way. But, isn't he selling something of interest to us? Marco always has interesting cars for sale. Maybe looking beyond MGs is a good thing. Although he is brokering a 1960 MGA at BP4,250. Personally, I look forward to getting his emails. But then, maybe I'm more of a car nut than some. Norm Sippel No MG now Just a Turner, Alfa, BMW & Mercedes these days. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 16:28:22 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:28:22 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> Message-ID: I am in the same boat as you. I like reading his emails and drooling. On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 2:27 PM, Norm 2Bs wrote: > "Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam." > > All spam should be this interesting. So, no, I won't be reporting them as > spam. Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the wrong way. > But, isn't he selling something of interest to us? > > Marco always has interesting cars for sale. Maybe looking beyond MGs is a > good thing. Although he is brokering a 1960 MGA at BP4,250. > > Personally, I look forward to getting his emails. But then, maybe I'm more > of a car nut than some. > > Norm Sippel > No MG now > Just a Turner, Alfa, BMW & Mercedes these days. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 20 17:01:36 2010 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:01:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> Message-ID: I like the ones from our friends in Nigeria. So touching. I doubt that the Kent Spam Collection wouldn't draw nearly as much ire if the jerks would actually remove you from their list after the third request -- as they say they will. Dishonest "businessmen" never attract my interest. Nor my business. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Richard Ewald" Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 5:28 PM To: Cc: "MG Digest" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails I am in the same boat as you. I like reading his emails and drooling. On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 2:27 PM, Norm 2Bs wrote: > "Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam." > > All spam should be this interesting. So, no, I won't be reporting them as > spam. Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the wrong way. > But, isn't he selling something of interest to us? > > Marco always has interesting cars for sale. Maybe looking beyond MGs is a > good thing. Although he is brokering a 1960 MGA at BP4,250. > > Personally, I look forward to getting his emails. But then, maybe I'm > more > of a car nut than some. > > Norm Sippel > No MG now > Just a Turner, Alfa, BMW & Mercedes these days. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels at sbcglobal.net From rocknatural at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 17:31:57 2010 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:31:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCE396D.4030803@gmail.com> Simon Matthews wrote: > Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam. > > The emails are sent using an email service provider. Their web page is: > http://www.mailingmanager.co.uk/email-marketing-contact.php I understand, but actually, personally, I enjoy the old car pictures. -Rocky Frisco -- From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 20 18:37:12 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 19:37:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> Message-ID: <4BCE48B8.6010008@justbrits.com> << Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the wrong way. >> UNDERSTATEMENT, Norm. I HAVE/and WILL continue to report him as I get SIX [6] of his SPAM per mailing !!! If I am "interested" or "drolling" _*/*I*/*_ will find said sites and subscribe or frequently check. Having something "shoved down my throat" does NOT make me a happy camper !!! Screw him and what ever happens to him from his ILLEGAL spamming !! Ed PS: and yo makes it worse, he IS using a 'system' that .........changes 'headers' and their I.D.ing methods !! From charleyrob at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 19:12:08 2010 From: charleyrob at gmail.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 21:12:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> Message-ID: <6BF0111F-0077-4E98-89B7-0B623301EE60@gmail.com> Norm, Say it's not so! I can't believe that the same Taunton Press Norm Sippel who drove his MGB year-round to work is now MG-less? All is not right in the world - you must correct this. When I first meet you I had no MGs, now I have 4 and you have none. Please say you'll correct this great mis-direction of fate and rejoin the flock of believers. Charley Robinson Formerly of Fine Woodworking 1954 MGTF, 1957 MGA, 1962 MGA, 1980 MGB LE On Apr 20, 2010, at 5:27 PM, Norm 2Bs wrote: > "Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam." > > All spam should be this interesting. So, no, I won't be reporting them as > spam. Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the wrong way. > But, isn't he selling something of interest to us? > > Marco always has interesting cars for sale. Maybe looking beyond MGs is a > good thing. Although he is brokering a 1960 MGA at BP4,250. > > Personally, I look forward to getting his emails. But then, maybe I'm more > of a car nut than some. > > Norm Sippel > No MG now > Just a Turner, Alfa, BMW & Mercedes these days. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charleyrob at gmail.com From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 20 21:15:10 2010 From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:15:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Engine Frustration References: <9806FB24-8B0C-4172-8A3D-058F8A55F1FE@tampabay.rr.com><8334B2E5B57B453ABBE0929790B61FB1@DELL><87DA6893A8974AD1AC64363E6C691274@paul><18361BEB4D794A18A69348D9879FBFFB@DELL><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06C12F44@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <259FBF14B8A041BC8D86CEAF497B484C@DELL> Message-ID: <7576D7AC15444E34BB816B98FCA3AC72@DELL> Sorry for the delay getting back to posting about the engine frustration. Took the engine to a MG engine rebuilder. Found out that there was dirt in number 5 main bearing that caused the engine to seize. Supposedly the machine shop that rebuilt the engine the first time had done everything right........not! The machine shop had left off the cork gaskets at the bottom of the engine, so I really don't know if everything was cleaned by them. Need new mains. Thanks to everyone for their input. Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Straub" To: <> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 11:44 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine Frustration > Engine is 1973. Rebuilt 2008. Engine was turned over without spark plugs > before trying to start with gas. Starter taken out still won't turn over. > > Thanks everyone for your suggestions. > > Craig > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Councill, David" > To: <> > Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 11:19 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine Frustration > > >> In that case, you could check to make sure the starter is not binding >> with the flywheel - more common with the older style starter (67 and >> older). This used to happen with my first MGB, a 65, which I would then >> rock the car in 4th gear to free it. You didn't mention the year but >> your description sounded like the engine shouldn't have seized up this >> early. >> >> David Councill >> 64 B >> 67 BGT >> 72 B >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On >> Behalf Of Craig Straub >> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 10:01 AM >> To: mgs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine Frustration >> >> The engine will not phsycially turn over by hand. You can talk all you >> want >> about electrics, it is not an electrical problem. >> >> Craig >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/craigstraub at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/craigstraub at sbcglobal.net From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 21:38:55 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:38:55 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <4BCE48B8.6010008@justbrits.com> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> <4BCE48B8.6010008@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed, How do you report the spam emails? Simon On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:37 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the > wrong way. >> > > UNDERSTATEMENT, Norm. I HAVE/and WILL > continue to report him as I get SIX [6] of his SPAM > per mailing !!! > > If I am "interested" or "drolling" _*/*I*/*_ will find said > sites and subscribe or frequently check. Having > something "shoved down my throat" does NOT make > me a happy camper !!! > > Screw him and what ever happens to him from his > ILLEGAL spamming !! > > Ed > > PS: and yo makes it worse, he IS using a 'system' that > .........changes 'headers' and their I.D.ing methods !! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 20 22:26:22 2010 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 23:26:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> <4BCE48B8.6010008@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4BCE7E6E.5050306@sbcglobal.net> I don't bother reporting them. I simply block them in my email program (Thunderbird) and about once or twice a week I check the junk email folder for something that might have accidentally got misrouted and delete the rest. Usually ads for Viagra, fake Rolex watches, warnings that my account in a bank I've never heard of is frozen, letters from my lost Nigerian cousins and now - the Kent Collection. Charles Hill Simon Matthews wrote: > Ed, > > How do you report the spam emails? > > Simon From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Apr 21 02:43:50 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:43:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails References: Message-ID: You report it if you want to and don't bother us with it. Your mail has generated another batch of 'spam', to go with the dozens that were flying around a few months ago. ----- Original Message ----- > Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Apr 21 02:52:52 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:52:52 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Engine Frustration References: <9806FB24-8B0C-4172-8A3D-058F8A55F1FE@tampabay.rr.com><8334B2E5B57B453ABBE0929790B61FB1@DELL><87DA6893A8974AD1AC64363E6C691274@paul><18361BEB4D794A18A69348D9879FBFFB@DELL><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06C12F44@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><259FBF14B8A041BC8D86CEAF497B484C@DELL> <7576D7AC15444E34BB816B98FCA3AC72@DELL> Message-ID: <18B28D5DBFA24576B9B09648CDB5E284@paul> It's always bothered me just how well the oilways will be cleaned out after any machining work. Should they be flushed out with oil? Or is blowing out with air enough? Took the caps off my V8 last year to check the sizes in preparation for replacement (original sizes after 200k on the engine and about 100k on these shells, still just in spec). The big ends and most of the main journals had a mirror finish, but the front main was very slightly scored, I suspect from debris remaining in the oilways until oil was pushed through. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Took the engine to a MG engine rebuilder. Found out that there was dirt > in number 5 main bearing that caused the engine to seize. Supposedly the > machine shop that rebuilt the engine the first time had done everything > right........not! From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Tue Apr 20 19:39:21 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 19:39:21 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF24D5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> As a system administrator, I maintain a smtp gateway server of which its role in life is filtering out spam for a medium size university. Thus I frequently ponder what constitutes spam. Although commercial emails may be unsolicited, if they are from a legitimate business and traceable back to that business, I generally would not consider that spam or at least spam of concern. When the Kent emails came up on this list, I went ahead and tried the unsubscribing which did not work just as others said. I emailed this Kent Collection company, as others suggested, and they replied that they had taken me off, which they did not. I still get their emails. I see this as bad netiquette on their part, but it isn't something I would get too worked up about. I can easily filter them out, delete them, or I could even ban their mail servers from connecting to the entire domain that I am on to send email here. I just don't think trying to report them as spammers is going to accomplish anything. However, Kent Collection's actions so far in failing to listen to requests to cease makes me wonder about their business practices and whether they would be someone I would want to do business with. A little effort on their part would certainly reflect better on what type of company they are. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Norm 2Bs Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:28 PM To: MG Digest; simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails "Please join with me in reporting these emails as spam." All spam should be this interesting. So, no, I won't be reporting them as spam. Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the wrong way. But, isn't he selling something of interest to us? Marco always has interesting cars for sale. Maybe looking beyond MGs is a good thing. Although he is brokering a 1960 MGA at BP4,250. Personally, I look forward to getting his emails. But then, maybe I'm more of a car nut than some. Norm Sippel No MG now Just a Turner, Alfa, BMW & Mercedes these days. From peter at nosimport.com Wed Apr 21 09:07:09 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 10:07:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <6BF0111F-0077-4E98-89B7-0B623301EE60@gmail.com> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> <6BF0111F-0077-4E98-89B7-0B623301EE60@gmail.com> Message-ID: <201004210807164.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Too funny! I've got 2 Fine Homebuilding and 1 Fine Gardening emails in my spam folder just today! Peter C ------- At 08:12 PM 4/20/2010, Charley Robinson wrote: >Norm, > >Say it's not so! I can't believe that the same Taunton Press Norm Sippel who >drove his MGB year-round to work is now MG-less? >All is not right in the world - you must correct this. When I first meet you I >had no MGs, now I have 4 and you have none. Please say you'll correct this >great mis-direction of fate and rejoin the flock of believers. > >Charley Robinson >Formerly of Fine Woodworking >1954 MGTF, 1957 MGA, 1962 MGA, 1980 MGB LE From rbgosling at googlemail.com Wed Apr 21 09:43:36 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:43:36 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The Kent Collection messages are mail that I did not sign up for, do not want, and cannot (by all accounts, although I haven't tried myself) unsubscribe from. That seems a fair definition of Spam, however pretty the pictures are. I'm grateful to Simon for finding out who I can whinge to, and letting us all know, and I shall be whinging when the next one comes through. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From barneymg at mgaguru.com Wed Apr 21 10:16:50 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 11:16:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <201004210807164.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> <6BF0111F-0077-4E98-89B7-0B623301EE60@gmail.com> <201004210807164.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: <340192.16711.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> You guys are all funny. I get up to 1000 spam messages pushed at me daily. I don't have time to mess with complaining or unsubscribing. First time I see one I just set a spam filter, and thereafter they go directly toth dust bin with no bother. In the end I see maybe 4 or 5 daily that sneak past my filters, just set a new filter rule and bannish those too. At 10:07 AM 4/21/2010 -0500, Peter Caldwell wrote: >Too funny! I've got 2 Fine Homebuilding and 1 Fine >Gardening emails in my spam folder just today! >.... From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Apr 21 10:46:13 2010 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:46:13 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails Message-ID: <184b8.2af652ef.390085d5@aol.com> I always find the ones offering me drugs from Canadian pharmacies particularly ironic. If I want Canadian drugs, I'll walk down to the Canadian drug store on the corner...... I agree - set the spam controls and check them once in awhile to make sure that nothing is getting trapped that shouldn't. BTW, if you have anything important to say to me but have an email that I won't recognize and you don't bother to fill in the subject, you are going straight into the bit bin, unread. Bill In a message dated 4/21/2010 9:41:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, barneymg at mgaguru.com writes: You guys are all funny. I get up to 1000 spam messages pushed at me daily. From barrie at look.ca Wed Apr 21 11:03:50 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 13:03:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <340192.16711.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> <6BF0111F-0077-4E98-89B7-0B623301EE60@gmail.com> <201004210807164.SM04324@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> <340192.16711.qm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I must admit that the Kent emails have some interest, albeit slight but it is difficult to let these type of people get away with it - at least for me anyway. I tend to chastise bad web pages but now find that so many are soooooooooooo bad. Typical example are computer equipment suppliers who have whooooa busy web sites but no easy way of getting simple question answered by putting their manual on line or making their "support" section useful and not just another advert alley. I used to write a column in a computer magazine and I did several on web sites so I suppose I am just an ace critic now. One company asked my advice on their web site which was astoundingly beautiful showing their expensive men's shirts and ladies blouses - and getting no hits. So I advised them to add their phone number and email address - doh ! At 12:16 PM 4/21/2010, Barney Gaylord wrote: >You guys are all funny. I get up to 1000 spam messages pushed at me >daily. I don't have time to mess with complaining or >unsubscribing. First time I see one I just set a spam filter, and >thereafter they go directly toth dust bin with no bother. In the >end I see maybe 4 or 5 daily that sneak past my filters, just set a >new filter rule and bannish those too. > > >At 10:07 AM 4/21/2010 -0500, Peter Caldwell wrote: >>Too funny! I've got 2 Fine Homebuilding and 1 Fine >>Gardening emails in my spam folder just today! >>.... >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie 705--721-9060 From difejo at optonline.net Wed Apr 21 15:46:26 2010 From: difejo at optonline.net (John Di Fede) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 17:46:26 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails Message-ID: This thread reminds me of the Monty Python Flying Circus skit which included the phrase SPAM, SPAM, SPAM, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmz_FD-YxUo John DiFede From jmc987 at verizon.net Wed Apr 21 18:58:54 2010 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (Joseph Cianciotti) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 20:58:54 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails Message-ID: <8AED8695-4AA0-4799-86AF-473B10ED1B69@verizon.net> I just unsubscribed. Haven't received an email since. Joseph 67 MGB Roadster From mgmagnette at aol.com Thu Apr 22 10:20:17 2010 From: mgmagnette at aol.com (mgmagnette at aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 12:20:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a 60's Midget in New England Message-ID: <8CCB04ED475BE9A-1484-64B1@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> Anyone know of a 60's Midget/Sprite for sale somewhere in New England? Something usable around $4k? Thought it'd be easy but everything around here is from the 70's it seems. Reply off list to avoid tipping off others :) -John From thgun at comporium.net Thu Apr 22 11:39:06 2010 From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 13:39:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGA main throttle spring Message-ID: <20100422133906.EKM71223@ms1.comporium.net> I need info on where the spring connects at the bottom of the carbs. Is there a strap that it attaches to? I am about to remount my carbs today. Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst. From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Thu Apr 22 11:54:49 2010 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 10:54:49 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA main throttle spring In-Reply-To: <20100422133906.EKM71223@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20100422133906.EKM71223@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: If I recall correctly, there is a long narrow metal piece that it connects to. This should have been installed when you installed the carbs. Item 11 on this page: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29215 Simon On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 10:39 AM, wrote: > I need info on where the spring connects at the bottom of the carbs. Is there a strap that it attaches to? I am about to remount my carbs today. > Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Apr 22 12:15:13 2010 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 13:15:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA main throttle spring In-Reply-To: <20100422133906.EKM71223@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20100422133906.EKM71223@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <441246.30028.qm@smtp101.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Service Parts List. Engine Section: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/spl/spl_1500_a.pdf See item 52 (Bracket) on illustration Plate AJ and text page A.20, pages 28 and 30 respectively in this PDF document. At 01:39 PM 4/22/2010 -0400, thgun at comporium.net wrote: >I need info on where the spring connects at the bottom of the carbs. >Is there a strap that it attaches to? .... From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Thu Apr 22 22:52:57 2010 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:52:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Is there anyone in Bakersfield Message-ID: that could look at an MGB for me? I'm too far away to go there unless I have a better idea as to car's condition. I would be glad to pay for help! Thanks! From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Fri Apr 23 10:02:56 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:02:56 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] latch problem Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I have run into a bit of a mystery with the boot lid on my 64B restoration project - I haven't been able to get it to latch. I removed the locking mechanism to better see where the problem is and I can see that the latch doesn't reach high enough to even get to the latching mechanism. I removed the latch and compared it to the reddish one that came from the car (the newer latch came from a swap meet): http://www.karamursel.org/mg/latch.jpg My original thought was the flatter one was a BGT latch but it looks like Moss only lists one latch and the picture looks like the flatter, shorter one. So I checked my functional 72B setup and it is also using the flatter one. Did the early MGBs use a different latching setup? It looks like the flat one leaves me some 6-8 mm or so short of where it needs to be. Might anyone have a spare of the reddish one on the left they could part with? The picture was part of a quick webpage I patched up on my 64B restoration. I still have the carbs, radiator, and the trunk left to work on before I hook up electricity and try to start it after its 18 years of inactivity. http://www.karamursel.org/mg/restoration2.htm David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 23 11:49:11 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:49:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] latch problem In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: After replacing my boot lid (with a used one that did not have the Fold of Death), I also had a great deal of trouble getting it to latch.My latch loop looks like the one on the right, more or less, with a bit of a righthand slant to it. I tried bending the loop in several directions, flipping it over, spacing it out from the body with washers, and possibly opening up the screw holes for more adjustment. I stopped tinkering when it would latch under applied pressure -- I close the lid, then lean on the lid with my hand on the lock handle until it clicks. If I don't lean it just sits there unlatched. Of course, the entire panel between the taillamps on my B consists of 2 inches of body filler over what looks like corrugated metal (being that mangled), so it is understandable that the latch may be somewhat misaligned. YMMV. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/23/10 9:02 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote: > I have run into a bit of a mystery with the boot lid on my 64B > restoration project - I haven't been able to get it to latch. I removed > the locking mechanism to better see where the problem is and I can see > that the latch doesn't reach high enough to even get to the latching > mechanism. I removed the latch and compared it to the reddish one that > came from the car (the newer latch came from a swap meet): > > > > http://www.karamursel.org/mg/latch.jpg > > > > My original thought was the flatter one was a BGT latch but it looks > like Moss only lists one latch and the picture looks like the flatter, > shorter one. So I checked my functional 72B setup and it is also using > the flatter one. Did the early MGBs use a different latching setup? It > looks like the flat one leaves me some 6-8 mm or so short of where it > needs to be. Might anyone have a spare of the reddish one on the left > they could part with? > > > > The picture was part of a quick webpage I patched up on my 64B > restoration. I still have the carbs, radiator, and the trunk left to > work on before I hook up electricity and try to start it after its 18 > years of inactivity. > > > > http://www.karamursel.org/mg/restoration2.htm > > > > > > David Councill > > 64 B > > 67 BGT > > 72 B From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sat Apr 24 02:58:47 2010 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 10:58:47 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] title wanted References: <388834.91341.qm@smtp109.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com><88A8F4FA831D4062BF4863FD06EB963C@uw471de61b465c> <470094F9F3E440BABEC7502BC88D8CC0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <10F388E8A0B8458C8722ECCA8D785BEF@uw471de61b465c> Thank you Oliver, For these cases we might need this, it can be a nice escape. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 4:09 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] title wanted >I purchased a car this past spring (about a year ago) without a title. she >promised me the title up down and sideways and then said she would get >title. > > finally (I'm in Texas) I had to get a bonded title. which means I had to > get the car appraised, then pay for a "bond" from an agency to insure the > title. in other words, its like an insurance policy in case the real > title owner shows up. > > at least in Texas, its not that hard to get a real title for a car if you > don't have one. its just a little more paperwork and $$$ > > I have also heard, and seen, on the net, you can "buy" a title for just > about anything. for example, there was a company in North Carolina that > would send you a NC title and plates. you just supply them with the vin > and $$. > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Hans Duinhoven" > Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 2:44 PM > To: "vainent" ; ; "BarneyGaylord" > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] title wanted > >> Nice discussion Barney, >> >> In my case it was the other way. >> Being a real novice, I bought my 1971 BGT in 1990. >> The car was directly imported from the USA and the seller (local classic >> trader) sold me the car without any title. >> I only got the import papers with the car and that was it. >> It took me several years to get the car roadworthy (4 young kids consumed >> most time) and at that moment I had to register the BGT in the >> Netherlands. >> >> Although the inspection officer said the car was at a superb condition, >> he was not able to supply me the Dutch registration papers. >> I had to show official papers, which had to prove the year of make and >> where the car had been manufactured. >> It just happened, that at the same time an officer of the BMIHT >> http://www.bmiht.co.uk/bmiht/index.htm approached the list for info about >> all known MG clubs in any country. >> Having helped the best man with all relative info of the Dutch MG CC, I >> now could approach him for a quick help. So he sent my quickly my GT's >> birth certificate, which finally helped me getting the Dutch registration >> finalised. The GT has the classic registration plate AH-43-24 - a sixties >> looking title. >> >> I hope this story may help novice classic buyers, to have all needed >> papers accompanied with the classic car you want to buy. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans 71 BGT From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sat Apr 24 03:03:22 2010 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:03:22 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB References: <4BCA4263.5090907@cox.net> <4BCA4D82.5030304@gmail.com><20100418040837.9A64024DB8F@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <9EBA69E0314B47A4A7F81C6E89D4A28E@uw471de61b465c> looking the engine bay, this B has been neglected apparently.... Hans 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Ewald" To: "don" Cc: Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:58 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB > remove the luggage rack and this the twin to my sister's car. her's was a > '67. Her car is what got me in love with LBCs > Rick > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: don > Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 8:37 PM > Subject: [Mgs] Another time-capsule MGB > To: mgs at autox.team.net > > >>just appeared on eBay, '66 black w/ red interior >> >>< > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 >> >>MG : MGB >> >>< > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 >>MG >>: >>< > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330425073125&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:MOTORS:1123 >>MGB > > This isn't quite as pretty as the iris blue one on BaT, but looks > about as original, maybe moreso. > > If I was closer geographically, I'd bid enthusiastically. But, a car > like this can have a lot of surprises. I've experienced the > car-from-afar love affair and been stiffed twice now. The dream car > arrives on the truck or the dock, and my heart sinks as I see hundred > dollar bills floating away from me as the car was not what seller > claimed it to be. > > I spoke to a seller of an MGB today who bought his car several years > ago on eBay, only to find out after the purchase that the car was a > rust bucket and the cost to remedy $7,500. Ouch. I also know of a > TR250 buyer who had a similar experience and now has a $30,000 TR250. > > > Don Scott > Calistoga, CA > > 1962 MGA Mk II > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 2001 Miata SE BRG > 63-67 MGB (searching) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Apr 24 06:26:41 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 13:26:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] latch problem References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> Hasn't the reddish one lost its bolt-through plate? That should be welded to the loop. It's the distance from those holes to the end of the loop that is important, not from the ends of the loop. Only one 'striker' (the official name of that part) is shown for all years in the Parts Catalogue as well. Parts Catalogue pictures can be misleading as to exact shape, it could well be a generic drawing when there are detail differences in the actual part for different models. Having said that on my 75 GT it is flat-topped, a smidgen under 2.5" from the bottom of the plate to the top of the loop. It's also curved in the other orientation, as if to follow the curve of the boot surround (an unnecessary nicety, I would have thought). It's not a problem with the seal being too thick, is it? For the sake of 6-8mm I would have thought you could put an angle in the flat top of the orange part, like there is in the red one, maybe filing the holes out a bit more as well. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I have run into a bit of a mystery with the boot lid on my 64B > restoration project - I haven't been able to get it to latch. I removed > the locking mechanism to better see where the problem is and I can see > that the latch doesn't reach high enough to even get to the latching > mechanism. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sat Apr 24 09:12:02 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 09:12:02 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] latch problem In-Reply-To: <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I guess I should have put the bolt-through plate in position in the picture to demonstrate more. Close look at the picture will show its relative position which will indicate more about the height difference of the loop piece that I was alluding to. I may just have the plate welded back on if I cannot find a readily available replacement. I'll be heading to Oregon (NW USA) in a few days where my son can probably weld it plus I will be not too far from a British car salvage yard that may have something similar. The trunk lid looks normal and the seal is old but not brittle enough to motivate me to replace it yet. My 72B has a new seal and latching was never a problem - unlatching was though. I had to fix that using shims to push the latch inwards a bit more (or at least it seems to be fixed). Plus I did the trick where I drilled a 1/8" hole, covered by the latching mechanism which allows me to manually push the latch if necessary using a small pin. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 6:27 AM To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG Digest Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] latch problem Hasn't the reddish one lost its bolt-through plate? That should be welded to the loop. It's the distance from those holes to the end of the loop that is important, not from the ends of the loop. Only one 'striker' (the official name of that part) is shown for all years in the Parts Catalogue as well. Parts Catalogue pictures can be misleading as to exact shape, it could well be a generic drawing when there are detail differences in the actual part for different models. Having said that on my 75 GT it is flat-topped, a smidgen under 2.5" from the bottom of the plate to the top of the loop. It's also curved in the other orientation, as if to follow the curve of the boot surround (an unnecessary nicety, I would have thought). It's not a problem with the seal being too thick, is it? For the sake of 6-8mm I would have thought you could put an angle in the flat top of the orange part, like there is in the red one, maybe filing the holes out a bit more as well. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I have run into a bit of a mystery with the boot lid on my 64B > restoration project - I haven't been able to get it to latch. I removed > the locking mechanism to better see where the problem is and I can see > that the latch doesn't reach high enough to even get to the latching > mechanism. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Apr 24 09:39:15 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:39:15 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] latch problem References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> Out of interest, what's the distance from the bottom of the bolt-through plate to the top of the flat loop on your flat-topped one (mine was 2.5"), and is yours curved in the other plane (looking down on the top of the loop) like mine? ----- Original Message ----- I guess I should have put the bolt-through plate in position in the picture to demonstrate more... From thgun at comporium.net Sat Apr 24 13:48:39 2010 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 15:48:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 1500 plugs / wires Message-ID: What is the best choice? Local Advance or Autozone. Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 RST. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sat Apr 24 15:20:24 2010 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 15:20:24 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] latch problem In-Reply-To: <8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> The flat one is 2.5". The other plate is 2.75", in fact, the location of the plate relative to the bottom posts is identical on both, but the piece from the 64B is a bit longer thus accounting for the extra 1/4" at the apex. -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk] Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 9:39 AM To: Councill, David; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG Digest Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] latch problem Out of interest, what's the distance from the bottom of the bolt-through plate to the top of the flat loop on your flat-topped one (mine was 2.5"), and is yours curved in the other plane (looking down on the top of the loop) like mine? ----- Original Message ----- I guess I should have put the bolt-through plate in position in the picture to demonstrate more... From timfboston at aol.com Sat Apr 24 18:20:32 2010 From: timfboston at aol.com (timfboston at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:20:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <8CCB224406A73A1-13E0-1CBE0@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> I noticed a small amount of coolant in the #3 spark plug recess. I have cleaned it out a couple of times only to see it again. There is no indication where it is coming from. It is a 1971 MGB (rebuilt engine last June). No drips around the heater control valve. The amount is minimal. The car runs great without any issues. Any ideas/recommendations? Thanks Tim From shop at justbrits.com Sat Apr 24 18:51:44 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:51:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails In-Reply-To: <8AED8695-4AA0-4799-86AF-473B10ED1B69@verizon.net> References: <8AED8695-4AA0-4799-86AF-473B10ED1B69@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4BD39220.7030804@justbrits.com> << I just unsubscribed. Haven't received an email since. >> Bet you do the next time around, Joseph -:( -:( !! I've tried a dozen or so times. Ed From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca Sat Apr 24 19:14:24 2010 From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 22:14:24 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8CCB224406A73A1-13E0-1CBE0@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <004d01cae414$a4a58430$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Hopefully it is coming from the heater feed that comes out of the side of the head in that area...otherwise it would have to be a gasket leak! Malcolm ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 9:20 PM Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery >I noticed a small amount of coolant in the #3 spark plug recess. I have > cleaned it out a couple of times only to see it again. There is no > indication > where it is coming from. It is a 1971 MGB (rebuilt engine last June). No > drips around the heater control valve. The amount is minimal. The car > runs > great without any issues. > > Any ideas/recommendations? > > Thanks > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/msjeffcock at eastlink.ca -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2832 - Release Date: 04/24/10 06:31:00 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 21:31:17 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:31:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery In-Reply-To: <004d01cae414$a4a58430$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8CCB224406A73A1-13E0-1CBE0@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> <004d01cae414$a4a58430$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: It's worse than that. Think about it, the spark plug recess is ABOVE the head gasket. So unless you are having some type of gravity storm, your choices are: 1. Leaky heater feed 2. Cracked head. It would be worth a few bucks to take the car to a shop and have the cooling system pressure tested. This will give you the correct answer. Rick On Sat, Apr 24, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > Hopefully it is coming from the heater feed that comes out of the side of > the head in that area...otherwise it would have to be a gasket leak! > > Malcolm From timfboston at aol.com Sun Apr 25 00:18:56 2010 From: timfboston at aol.com (timfboston at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 02:18:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery In-Reply-To: References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><8CCB224406A73A1-13E0-1CBE0@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com><004d01cae414$a4a58430$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <8CCB2565245953E-1BA0-1825E@webmail-d075.sysops.aol.com> The more I look at it the more I think it is a cracked head. The new engine paint is coming off in the same spot as the crack in this photo. http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/cracks_7.htm Looks like I'll be in the market for a good cylinder head. What are the recommended sources? Thanks Tim -----Original Message----- From: Richard Ewald To: Malcolm Jeffcock Cc: timfboston at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Apr 24, 2010 11:31 pm Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery It's worse than that. Think about it, the spark plug recess is ABOVE the head gasket. So unless you are having some type of gravity storm, your choices are: 1. Leaky heater feed 2. Cracked head. It would be worth a few bucks to take the car to a shop and have the cooling system pressure tested. This will give you the correct answer. Rick On Sat, Apr 24, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > Hopefully it is coming from the heater feed that comes out of the side of > the head in that area...otherwise it would have to be a gasket leak! > > Malcolm _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/timfboston at aol.com From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca Sun Apr 25 04:38:18 2010 From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:38:18 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8CCB224406A73A1-13E0-1CBE0@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> <004d01cae414$a4a58430$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <008f01cae463$6bde5ab0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Excellent point...I wasn't thinking with a clear image in my mind of its location! The only coolant above the gasket is in the head if its coming out there are no designed "exit points" therefore a crack is the likely suspect.. malcolm ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Ewald To: Malcolm Jeffcock Cc: timfboston at aol.com ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:31 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery It's worse than that. Think about it, the spark plug recess is ABOVE the head gasket. So unless you are having some type of gravity storm, your choices are: 1. Leaky heater feed 2. Cracked head. It would be worth a few bucks to take the car to a shop and have the cooling system pressure tested. This will give you the correct answer. Rick On Sat, Apr 24, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: Hopefully it is coming from the heater feed that comes out of the side of the head in that area...otherwise it would have to be a gasket leak! Malcolm ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2832 - Release Date: 04/24/10 06:31:00 From eugeneb at nni.com Sun Apr 25 12:59:58 2010 From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:59:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery In-Reply-To: <008f01cae463$6bde5ab0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: A compression check may help to indicate if the head is cracked. It did with mine. Gene 80 B On Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:38:18 -0300 Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > Excellent point...I wasn't thinking with a clear image in > my mind of its location! The only coolant above the > gasket is in the head if its coming out there are no > designed "exit points" therefore a crack is the likely > suspect.. > > malcolm > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Richard Ewald > To: Malcolm Jeffcock > Cc: timfboston at aol.com ; mgs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:31 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery > > > It's worse than that. Think about it, the spark plug > recess is ABOVE the head gasket. > So unless you are having some type of gravity storm, > your choices are: > 1. Leaky heater feed > 2. Cracked head. > > It would be worth a few bucks to take the car to a shop > and have the cooling system pressure tested. This will > give you the correct answer. > Rick > > > On Sat, Apr 24, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock > wrote: > > Hopefully it is coming from the heater feed that > comes out of the side of the head in that > area...otherwise it would have to be a gasket leak! > > Malcolm > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2832 - > Release Date: 04/24/10 06:31:00 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eugeneb at nni.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Apr 25 13:14:09 2010 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 21:14:09 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails References: <008901cae0d0$53c74c70$6401a8c0@normoffice> <4BCE48B8.6010008@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Calm down Ed, Just block the address in your anti spam tool and you will be free! Just my 2 cts. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: "4 - MGs" Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 2:37 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Reporting Kent Collection emails > << Perhaps he went about capturing email addresses in the > wrong way. >> > > UNDERSTATEMENT, Norm. I HAVE/and WILL > continue to report him as I get SIX [6] of his SPAM > per mailing !!! > > If I am "interested" or "drolling" _*/*I*/*_ will find said > sites and subscribe or frequently check. Having > something "shoved down my throat" does NOT make > me a happy camper !!! > > Screw him and what ever happens to him from his > ILLEGAL spamming !! > > Ed > > PS: and yo makes it worse, he IS using a 'system' that > .........changes 'headers' and their I.D.ing methods !! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl From mgb72 at airmail.net Sun Apr 25 15:47:16 2010 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:47:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery In-Reply-To: References: <008f01cae463$6bde5ab0$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <001201cae4c0$e2d95c70$a88c1550$@net> The pressure test on the coolant system would be more indicative. If there were a compression problem the car would not run well, and poor running was not mentioned. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eugene Balinski Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 2:00 PM To: Malcolm Jeffcock; Richard Ewald Cc: timfboston at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery A compression check may help to indicate if the head is cracked. It did with mine. Gene 80 B On Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:38:18 -0300 Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > Excellent point...I wasn't thinking with a clear image in > my mind of its location! The only coolant above the > gasket is in the head if its coming out there are no > designed "exit points" therefore a crack is the likely > suspect.. > > malcolm > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Richard Ewald > To: Malcolm Jeffcock > Cc: timfboston at aol.com ; mgs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:31 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant Mystery > > > It's worse than that. Think about it, the spark plug > recess is ABOVE the head gasket. > So unless you are having some type of gravity storm, > your choices are: > 1. Leaky heater feed > 2. Cracked head. > > It would be worth a few bucks to take the car to a shop > and have the cooling system pressure tested. This will > give you the correct answer. > Rick > > > On Sat, Apr 24, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock > wrote: > > Hopefully it is coming from the heater feed that > comes out of the side of the head in that > area...otherwise it would have to be a gasket leak! > > Malcolm > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- From otis15 at aol.com Sun Apr 25 16:17:23 2010 From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 18:17:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] test Message-ID: <8CCB2DC36F83F6B-56E0-1DC7@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com> Test From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Apr 26 01:46:57 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:46:57 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] latch problem References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF27BF@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <12BC0E87953348B9A78596424C62CDE3@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2860@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <8ACA216B56DB49F99815AB444BC9609F@paul> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06DF2864@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: Must be some other problem than, i.e. not the striker plate, as that is the same as mine. ----- Original Message ----- The flat one is 2.5". The other plate is 2.75" From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Apr 27 06:29:59 2010 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 07:29:59 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 1500 plugs / wires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BD6D8C7.4090701@ktc.com> I'd look for a Carquest store. That's where I get my MGB air filters CR On 4/24/2010 2:48 PM, Tom Gunderson wrote: > What is the best choice? Local Advance or Autozone. > Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 RST. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins at ktc.com From daybell7 at aol.com Wed Apr 28 12:24:36 2010 From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 14:24:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder Message-ID: <8CCB517311316A7-E94-B3CC@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT. The whole car shakes when I am starting out and releasing the clutch. What is wrong and can I do anything to make it less severe? Thanks, Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 14:31:04 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 13:31:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder In-Reply-To: <8CCB517311316A7-E94-B3CC@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCB517311316A7-E94-B3CC@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Are you sure it is the clutch? A bad u-joint can do exactly that. Before pulling the engine and trans to change the clutch I would disconnect the driveshaft at both ends and rotate the joints by hand to see if they are free. Rick On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 11:24 AM, wrote: > I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT. The whole car shakes when I am > starting out and releasing the clutch. What is wrong and can I do anything > to > make it less severe? > > Thanks, > Steve Hughes > Gainesville, FL > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Apr 29 01:50:47 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 08:50:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder References: <8CCB517311316A7-E94-B3CC@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4CD19A0DE04B480A8513BF9C2B90F711@paul> Has this suddenly started? Or always done it as far as you know, or since a new clutch? If it was OK before and has recently started doing it maybe the crank seal is leaking and it has got onto the clutch, That usually shows its self as oil dripping from the hole at the bottom of the bell-housing, which should have a split-pin in it to keep it clear. Mine started doing it after a new clutch when it didn't do it before, I found that upping the revs slightly while slipping the clutch controlled it, although I agree I shouldn't have to. Others have said too high an rpm caused it, so try varying your slipping rpms. I think 30-40k down the road mine is probably doing it less than it was, so just keep driving it if you can find a way of controlling it. If not it's probably an engine out and clutch replacement job, something may be warped or broken. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT. The whole car shakes when I am > starting out and releasing the clutch. What is wrong and can I do > anything to > make it less severe? From mgbob at juno.com Thu Apr 29 08:19:11 2010 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 14:19:11 GMT Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder Message-ID: <20100429.101911.26806.1@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Clutch judder was an occasional problem for me when I had an MGB in Sarasota, in similar warm, humid climate. I attributed it to rust forming on the clutch when the car was not driven for a couple of weeks. The judder would go away after a few stops & starts. Yours sounds worse than mine, however. If yours does not go away as mine did, check the easy things--rear axle u-bolt nuts, bolts on the drive shaft, shake the universal joints to test for wear, check gearbox mount for loose bolts and that the rubber has not become soggy &soft, engine mounts that the rubber has not separated from the steel and that nuts are tight. I have heard it said that low fluid in the dampers can allow axle tramp and clutch judder, though have not experienced that myself. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: daybell7 at aol.com To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 14:24:36 -0400 I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT. The whole car shakes when I am starting out and releasing the clutch. What is wrong and can I do anything to make it less severe? Thanks, Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob at juno.com From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Thu Apr 29 15:10:12 2010 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 17:10:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch judder Message-ID: <004701cae7e0$5b9914d0$12cb3e70$@net> Before you pull the engine, try the following, as a last resort: Go to an empty parking lot and do a series of starts in 4th gear until you can smell the clutch. This burns off any oil. Worked for me. Cheers, Adrian From otis15 at aol.com Thu Apr 29 17:51:12 2010 From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:51:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Engine I.D. Message-ID: <8CCB60DFBC39383-1AA8-4437@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com> I have two engines I'm trying to I.D. the year of. One has three piston rings,the other has four. I believe their both early seventies. The number plate is missing on both. They were both bored .20, tanked. and shotpiened at a local mechine shop and the fellow I got them from didn,t take the plates off or write the numbers down before he had it done. Any help would be appreciated Steve From g.schnittke at comcast.net Thu Apr 29 19:54:09 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:54:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder Message-ID: <4BDA3841.4000605@comcast.net> > I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT. Have you seen a doctor? Sorry - couldn't resist. Mine is a '67 tourer. Things I have noticed about Rear End Hop - 1. It was always present with my car, but at times worse. When I let the engine oil get low it would get worse. 2. I tried a new clutch thinking it was oil on the clutch. Nope. 3. Traction bars will help but they cost over $300. I've thought about getting a pair for a Ford Ranger at $85 and shortening them, but never got around to it. Thoughts anyone? 4. The original rear end wore out and was replaced by a Salisbury from my '69 car. End of rear end hop. This is not your problem since you already have one. (Or should. Might be worth a check. It *is* after all, a used car. 5. Higher revs at take off helps temporarily, but wears the clutch. 6. Keep your engine oil topped up. -- Nil desperandum Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke at comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 29 20:24:27 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:24:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder In-Reply-To: <4BDA3841.4000605@comcast.net> Message-ID: Traction bars scarcely seem necessary on a less-than-100HP vehicle with skinny tires. Just an observation... Curious how low engine oil contributes to rear end hop. Low shock oil was suggested... Not sure how Clutch Judder turned into Rear End Hop, either. Different issues. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/29/10 6:54 PM, Glenn Schnittke at g.schnittke at comcast.net wrote: >> I have clutch judder in my 1968 MGB-GT. > > Have you seen a doctor? Sorry - couldn't resist. > > Mine is a '67 tourer. Things I have noticed about Rear End Hop - > > 1. It was always present with my car, but at times worse. When I let the > engine oil get low it would get worse. > > 2. I tried a new clutch thinking it was oil on the clutch. Nope. > > 3. Traction bars will help but they cost over $300. I've thought about > getting a pair for a Ford Ranger at $85 and shortening them, but never > got around to it. Thoughts anyone? > > 4. The original rear end wore out and was replaced by a Salisbury from > my '69 car. End of rear end hop. This is not your problem since you > already have one. (Or should. Might be worth a check. It *is* after all, > a used car. > > 5. Higher revs at take off helps temporarily, but wears the clutch. > > 6. Keep your engine oil topped up. From paul at ece.rochester.edu Thu Apr 29 21:44:42 2010 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 23:44:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Engine I.D. In-Reply-To: <8CCB60DFBC39383-1AA8-4437@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCB60DFBC39383-1AA8-4437@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: By chance do you think they have the orig heads ? if so there is a casting number on the top . this can give you the engine series that they were fitted to , from there you can match the years. it is a start. >I have two engines I'm trying to I.D. the year of. One has three piston >rings,the other has four. I believe their both early seventies. The number >plate is missing on both. They were both bored .20, tanked. and shotpiened at >a local mechine shop and the fellow I got them from didn,t take the plates off >or write the numbers down before he had it done. > > > Any help would be >appreciated > > >Steve >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul at ece.rochester.edu -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From palte at gmx.net Thu Apr 29 23:52:42 2010 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:52:42 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Engine I.D. In-Reply-To: <8CCB60DFBC39383-1AA8-4437@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCB60DFBC39383-1AA8-4437@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100430055242.108010@gmx.net> > I have two engines I'm trying to I.D. the year of. One has three piston > rings,the other has four. I believe their both early seventies. > Any help would be appreciated > > > Steve Steve, IIRC there is a cast date somewhere on the engine. I can try to find it for you. On my car there were only four weeks or so between the cast date and the first registration date. Hope this is of any help to you. Bert 1970 MGB -- GRATIS f|r alle GMX-Mitglieder: Die maxdome Movie-FLAT! Jetzt freischalten unter http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/maxdome01 From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Apr 30 07:23:37 2010 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 06:23:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Engine I.D. In-Reply-To: <20100430055242.108010@gmx.net> References: <8CCB60DFBC39383-1AA8-4437@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com> <20100430055242.108010@gmx.net> Message-ID: <626148.90611.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> There is a 'clock' on the engine in the vicinity of the oil filter - http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/engine_clock_stamping/49479 Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Bert Palte To: otis15 at aol.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, April 30, 2010 1:52:42 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine I.D. > I have two engines I'm trying to I.D. the year of. One has three piston > rings,the other has four. I believe their both early seventies. > Any help would be appreciated > > > Steve Steve, IIRC there is a cast date somewhere on the engine. I can try to find it for you. On my car there were only four weeks or so between the cast date and the first registration date. Hope this is of any help to you. Bert 1970 MGB -- GRATIS f|r alle GMX-Mitglieder: Die maxdome Movie-FLAT! Jetzt freischalten unter http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/maxdome01 _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase at yahoo.com From awhitema at panix.com Fri Apr 30 08:43:03 2010 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:43:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel Message-ID: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> So last Sunday I took a 200 mile drive or so, which was mostly just a hoot. http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/gpsfiles/map2.php?year=2010&file=10.04.25 However, the portion of the trip between Cottonwood and Culdesac was rather less enjoyable. I lost a wheel. Those stories you hear about seeing your own wheel pass you as you go down the road... yeah, been there. Fortunately, it was a rear wheel. I did eventually find the wheel, which is (just) serviceable and needs to be replaced, but I got home with no additional troubles. I last looked at the wheel nuts in November, shortly after I put the wheels back on the car. Nobody else has touched them, discounting saboteurs. When I checked along the road, all 3 remaining wheels where more loose than I'd expect. They're all plenty tight now! I'm using the 15x5.5" KN minilite replicas (Moss 456-045 ?), which IIRC don't have hardened seats. Is that a potential factor? The wheel as it sits on the car now: http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronwhiteman/4552913701/ -- Aaron Whiteman From eric at erickson.on.net Fri Apr 30 08:52:42 2010 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 00:22:42 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> Message-ID: On 01/05/2010, at 12:13 AM, Aaron Whiteman wrote: > > However, the portion of the trip between Cottonwood and Culdesac was rather > less enjoyable. I lost a wheel. Those stories you hear about seeing your own > wheel pass you as you go down the road... yeah, been there. Fortunately, it > was a rear wheel. From rbgosling at googlemail.com Fri Apr 30 09:15:30 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 16:15:30 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> Message-ID: BTDT!!! Bizarrely, only a few weeks after the same thing happened to my wife in her car, and along the same stretch of road. I found my wheel; she didn't. In my case it was a front wheel, but I still managed to steer the car safely to the side of the road. Wheel was still fine, the car had a slight dent in the front wing where the wheel hit it, plus the brake disk and disk guard were worn flat where the car had skidded along on them. In my case the problem was clear - inappropriate nuts for the wheels. I'd just had fitted some alloy wheels from a Triumph Stag. These LOOK identical to those fitted to the MGB LE, so I bought some LE nuts to hold them on. However, the nuts had a small-diameter shank which fits inside the hole in the wheel to centre the wheel properly, above that a conical section out to the hex. The Stag wheels were designed for nuts that had a flat washer above the small-diameter shank. That wasn't good, it turns out, and the nuts worked their way loose 15 miles from the tyre shop where the wheels were fitted. I've since replaced the nuts - had a hell of a job finding some with the correct thread for the MGB (which is different to the Stag) and the right outside diameter on the shank to fit the holes in the alloys. No more problems since :-) Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Apr 30 09:28:22 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 16:28:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> Message-ID: <2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul> Presumably well into the journey than. I've had a wheel (front) come loose after only half a dozen miles when I forgot to fully tighten the nuts the day before, but fortunately I heard an odd noise then immediately realised what it was and all four nuts were still there (as well as the one behind the wheel). To get so far before it happened looks like they were under insufficient torque, which is 60-65 lb ft, but I've no idea what that feels like. There was a spate of the opposite happening to UK police cars at one time - studs shearing off. This was because any one patrol vehicle could be driven by two or three teams a day, and each one checked the wheel nuts (and other stuff) before taking the car out. The way this was done was by tightening them up a little bit more each time ... Do steel wheels have hardened seats? Never heard of it. ----- Original Message ----- > However, the portion of the trip between Cottonwood and Culdesac was > rather > less enjoyable. I lost a wheel. From awhitema at panix.com Fri Apr 30 09:48:08 2010 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 08:48:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: <2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul> References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> <2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul> Message-ID: <45E8A687-9502-4686-9583-89B153AC64C7@panix.com> On Apr 30, 2010, at 8:28 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > resumably well into the journey than. I've had a wheel (front) come loose after only half a dozen miles when I forgot to fully tighten the nuts the day before, but fortunately I heard an odd noise then immediately realised what it was and all four nuts were still there (as well as the one behind the wheel). Yeah, I was 150 miles or so into the loop, with some very solid twisties already covered. The car "felt funny" for a half mile or so before the wheel fell off, but I dumbly attributed that to the road. Whoops. > Do steel wheels have hardened seats? Never heard of it. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Apr 30 09:51:55 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 16:51:55 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> Message-ID: <105A32E34E07467599416EDA1BDA465C@paul> Interesting, the V8 wheel nuts also have a flat washer that clamps onto the flat face of the wheel centre, and not a conical seat, if I understand you correctly. Using a conical nut in this case will only give a tiny clamping area, probably quite capable of distorting the alloy and loosening the nut. As an aside because of this (on V8s) there is a certain amount of movement of the wheel on the shank of the nuts which could affect balance. Since I started getting balance problems on the V8 I've always used two Rostyle nuts (with conical end) to centre the wheel on the studs before fitting and tightening two of the correct nuts, then removing the Rostyle nuts and fitting the other two V8 nuts. Maybe over-doing it, but once you get into the habit it's easier to keep going. I welded a strip of metal from an old body panel round the flats of the Rostyle nuts so the standard wheel brace fits them. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > In my case the problem was clear - inappropriate nuts for the wheels. I'd > just had fitted some alloy wheels from a Triumph Stag. These LOOK > identical > to those fitted to the MGB LE, so I bought some LE nuts to hold them on. > However, the nuts had a small-diameter shank which fits inside the hole in > the wheel to centre the wheel properly, above that a conical section out > to > the hex. The Stag wheels were designed for nuts that had a flat washer > above the small-diameter shank. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Apr 30 09:59:26 2010 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 16:59:26 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> <2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul> <45E8A687-9502-4686-9583-89B153AC64C7@panix.com> Message-ID: <040B8944035743FB9DE70B94A2DA4871@paul> I saw that, I was just wondering if steel wheels were hardened. My (factory) V8 alloy-centred wheels don't have steel inserts, for what that's worth, and I don't recall them on my Scimitar (very similar wheels to the V8) either. ----- Original Message ----- I don't have steel wheels, I have the KN "minilite replica" alloys. My understanding is that some alloy wheels have steel inserts at the studs; these wheels don't.= From atweditor at aol.com Fri Apr 30 10:16:56 2010 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:16:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: <45E8A687-9502-4686-9583-89B153AC64C7@panix.com> References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com><2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul> <45E8A687-9502-4686-9583-89B153AC64C7@panix.com> Message-ID: <8CCB697AF3F418E-1CB0-CB77@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com> Haven't "lost" a wheel, but before I learned the importance of hub maintenance I had a couple of experiences of stripping the splines off of a worn wheel/hub combo. They went "BANG" and then the wheel turned ever so freely without regard to drive train, brakes or anything else. Grease is SO important. Jay Donoghue 72 B-GT (w/ wires) 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Aaron Whiteman To: Paul Hunt Cc: MG Mailing List Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 11:48 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] losing a wheel On Apr 30, 2010, at 8:28 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > resumably well into the journey than. I've had a wheel (front) come loose after only half a dozen miles when I forgot to fully tighten the nuts the day before, but fortunately I heard an odd noise then immediately realised what it was and all four nuts were still there (as well as the one behind the wheel). Yeah, I was 150 miles or so into the loop, with some very solid twisties already covered. The car "felt funny" for a half mile or so before the wheel fell off, but I dumbly attributed that to the road. Whoops. > Do steel wheels have hardened seats? Never heard of it. _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 11:07:23 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:07:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: <8CCB697AF3F418E-1CB0-CB77@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Last year on the Pullover Rally a fellow lost the wheel on his Fiat 850 spider. He was trailering the car in from Reno, and was delayed overnight when the trailer lost a wheel bearing. That repaired, he intercepted the rally route mid-course, rolled the Fiat off the trailer, and within half a mile lost a wheel. Upon closer inspection this was not surprising -- the other front wheel had only three nuts, two of which were incorrect -- they were the closed-end type and were not deep enough to seat the wheel even when they bottomed-out on the stud. A search along the road turned up the other wheel and one more nut. But only one stud on that side had enough thread left to accept a nut at all. Needless to say it went back on the trailer. The moral of this story is, always check your nuts. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/30/10 9:16 AM, atweditor at aol.com at atweditor at aol.com wrote: > Haven't "lost" a wheel, but before I learned the importance of hub > maintenance I had a couple of experiences of stripping the splines off of a >1 0worn wheel/hub combo. They went "BANG" and then the wheel turned ever so > freely without regard to drive train, brakes or anything else. > > Grease is SO important. > > Jay Donoghue > 72 B-GT (w/ wires) > 66 Mustang > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Aaron Whiteman > To: Paul Hunt > Cc: MG Mailing List > Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 11:48 am > Subject: Re: [Mgs] losing a wheel > > > On Apr 30, 2010, at 8:28 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > >> resumably well into the journey than. I've had a wheel (front) come loose > after only half a dozen miles when I forgot to fully tighten the nuts the day > before, but fortunately I heard an odd noise then immediately realised what > it > was and all four nuts were still there (as well as the one behind the wheel). > > Yeah, I was 150 miles or so into the loop, with some very solid twisties > already covered. The car "felt funny" for a half mile or so before the wheel > fell off, but I dumbly attributed that to the road. Whoops. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 10:55:29 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 09:55:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: <2CC5C9C49D4E4A419E2BD1F4D62ED389@paul> Message-ID: Well, steel is harder than aluminum alloy... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/30/10 8:28 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > > Do steel wheels have hardened seats? Never heard of it. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> However, the portion of the trip between Cottonwood and Culdesac was >> rather >> less enjoyable. I lost a wheel. > _______________________________________________ From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 10:53:32 2010 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 09:53:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> Message-ID: Scary. Don't trust those newfangled lug nuts myself. Can't tighten them with a hammer . -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 4/30/10 7:43 AM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote: > So last Sunday I took a 200 mile drive or so, which was mostly just a hoot. > > http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/gpsfiles/map2.php?year=2010&file=10.04.25 > > > However, the portion of the trip between Cottonwood and Culdesac was rather > less enjoyable. I lost a wheel. Those stories you hear about seeing your own > wheel pass you as you go down the road... yeah, been there. Fortunately, it > was a rear wheel. > > I did eventually find the wheel, which is (just) serviceable and needs to be > replaced, but I got home with no additional troubles. > > I last looked at the wheel nuts in November, shortly after I put the wheels > back on the car. Nobody else has touched them, discounting saboteurs. When I > checked along the road, all 3 remaining wheels where more loose than I'd > expect. They're all plenty tight now! > > I'm using the 15x5.5" KN minilite replicas (Moss 456-045 ?), which IIRC don't > have hardened seats. Is that a potential factor? > > > The wheel as it sits on the car now: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronwhiteman/4552913701/ > > -- > Aaron Whiteman From barrie at look.ca Fri Apr 30 12:11:22 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 14:11:22 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] losing a wheel In-Reply-To: References: <325BB2BD-06BC-4DBF-A1A4-1055988E1271@panix.com> Message-ID: Who wants lug nuts? I like the self tightening spinners that even look nicer At 12:53 PM 4/30/2010, Max Heim wrote: >Scary. Don't trust those newfangled lug nuts myself. Can't tighten them >with a hammer . > >-- > >Max Heim >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >If you're near Mountain View, CA, >it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > >on 4/30/10 7:43 AM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote: > > > So last Sunday I took a 200 mile drive or so, which was mostly just a hoot. > > > > http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/gpsfiles/map2.php?year=2010&file=10.04.25 > > > > > > However, the portion of the trip between Cottonwood and Culdesac was rather > > less enjoyable. I lost a wheel. Those stories you hear about > seeing your own > > wheel pass you as you go down the road... yeah, been > there. Fortunately, it > > was a rear wheel. > > > > I did eventually find the wheel, which is (just) serviceable and > needs to be > > replaced, but I got home with no additional troubles. > > > > I last looked at the wheel nuts in November, shortly after I put the wheels > > back on the car. Nobody else has touched them, discounting > saboteurs. When I > > checked along the road, all 3 remaining wheels where more loose than I'd > > expect. They're all plenty tight now! > > > > I'm using the 15x5.5" KN minilite replicas (Moss 456-045 ?), > which IIRC don't > > have hardened seats. Is that a potential factor? > > > > > > The wheel as it sits on the car now: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronwhiteman/4552913701/ > > > > -- > > Aaron Whiteman >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705--721-9060 From g.schnittke at comcast.net Fri Apr 30 23:06:44 2010 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 00:06:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Judder Message-ID: <4BDBB6E4.2070304@comcast.net> > From: Max Heim > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch Judder > To: MG List > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > Traction bars scarcely seem necessary on a less-than-100HP vehicle with > skinny tires. Just an observation... > If your rear springs are winding up like an old watch then traction bars bloody well will too help. That's one half of why they exist. > Curious how low engine oil contributes to rear end hop. Low shock oil was > suggested... > Low engine oil can and did contribute to my car shaking like an off-loaded washing machine. Bringing the level up to full stopped it. Every time. Call it experience. Some would call it bringing the engine back up to full power so as to compensate or power through the frequency of the springs winding versus the balance of the system. I would call it a successful fix for a problem that worked consistently. > Not sure how Clutch Judder turned into Rear End Hop, either. Different > issues. It got there because it's not always easy to tell the blasted difference between clutch judder, rear spring wind up and rear wheel hop. I'm trying to help a guy out from my experience. Glenn