From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Sep  1 00:17:34 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 08:17:34 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <46E417719E0D4578B62AA5D300413BE7@uw471de61b465c>

One can recognize still the doorhandles, gearleverknob, front grille and 
tail lights....
I would exchange for my GT I think. will bring some lively things at the 
neighborhood.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 7:09 AM
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car


> Not sure what to think of this one!  Not much left of the essence of an 
> MGB . . .
>
> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/31/impressive-build-1972-mgb-gt-v8-race-car/#more-2043
>
>
>
> Don Scott
> Calistoga, CA USA
> 1962 MGA
> 1973 MGB GT (for sale)
> 2001 Miata SE BRG
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep  1 01:01:21 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 03:01:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <46E417719E0D4578B62AA5D300413BE7@uw471de61b465c>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<46E417719E0D4578B62AA5D300413BE7@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <E1MiNMt-0006ZO-DO@theta.look.ca>

I'm sorry.  It is not an MGB GT!   They just take a shell because it 
is cheap..  What really bugs me is the constant erosion of real 
MGs.  Why the f**k canot they buy a kit car - oh yes because the MGB 
shell is cheaper !

At 02:17 AM 9/1/2009, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>One can recognize still the doorhandles, gearleverknob, front grille 
>and tail lights....
>I would exchange for my GT I think. will bring some lively things at 
>the neighborhood.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Hans
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
>To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 7:09 AM
>Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
>
>
>>Not sure what to think of this one!  Not much left of the essence 
>>of an MGB . . .
>>
>>http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/31/impressive-build-1972-mgb-gt-v8-race-car/#more-2043
>>
>>
>>
>>Don Scott
>>Calistoga, CA USA
>>1962 MGA
>>1973 MGB GT (for sale)
>>2001 Miata SE BRG
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Mgs at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Sep  1 01:10:08 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 09:10:08 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<46E417719E0D4578B62AA5D300413BE7@uw471de61b465c>
	<E1MiNMt-0006ZO-DO@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <96E30D6A26E94C02B0D665457E20B8F5@uw471de61b465c>

Well it's always the car's owner to decide.
Overhere it is very popular to buy low cost classics and use (abuse) these 
as daily driver.
Advantages are many - low investment, no car tax, low insurance, easy 
conversion to LPG which is much cheaper than normal gas.
There are lots of classics converted as classic racers like this BGT.
Can be fun as well.

Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT new starter solenoid = ready to be mounted

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>; <mgs at autox.team.net>; "don" 
<don at napanet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car


> I'm sorry.  It is not an MGB GT!   They just take a shell because it is 
> cheap..  What really bugs me is the constant erosion of real MGs.  Why the 
> f**k canot they buy a kit car - oh yes because the MGB shell is cheaper !
>
> At 02:17 AM 9/1/2009, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>>One can recognize still the doorhandles, gearleverknob, front grille and 
>>tail lights....
>>I would exchange for my GT I think. will bring some lively things at the 
>>neighborhood.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Hans
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
>>To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 7:09 AM
>>Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
>>
>>
>>>Not sure what to think of this one!  Not much left of the essence of an 
>>>MGB . . .
>>>
>>>http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/31/impressive-build-1972-mgb-gt-v8-race-car/#more-2043
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Don Scott
>>>Calistoga, CA USA
>>>1962 MGA
>>>1973 MGB GT (for sale)
>>>2001 Miata SE BRG 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 06:51:02 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 07:51:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <BEF5ED6E-22A1-4B41-B2CA-591C4846871A@gmail.com>

$60k, and it won't disappoint?  Is that because of the 20 hours of  
track time to sort out all of the issues?

On Sep 1, 2009, at 12:09 AM, don wrote:

> Not sure what to think of this one!  Not much left of the essence of  
> an MGB . . .
>
> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/31/impressive-build-1972-mgb-gt-v8-race-car/#more-2043
>
>
>
> Don Scott
> Calistoga, CA USA
> 1962 MGA
> 1973 MGB GT (for sale)
> 2001 Miata SE BRG
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Tue Sep  1 07:28:07 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 09:28:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <BEF5ED6E-22A1-4B41-B2CA-591C4846871A@gmail.com>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<BEF5ED6E-22A1-4B41-B2CA-591C4846871A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F9D86995-ACD5-4A87-B2FB-37FDD029DDED@trebelhorn.com>

It looks like an MGB to me -- a GT with a Rover V8, just like they  
built at Abingdon.  What's wrong with that?  Weber carbs, an adequate  
radiator, big tires?  It's a race car, not a concours restoration.

And we're nowhere near the point that MGBs are too rare to be raced  
-- that's just a laughable proposition.

I don't think I'd spend $60,000 for it.  But it's a good looking race  
car.

Matt

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Tue Sep  1 07:59:40 2009
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 14:59:40 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <F9D86995-ACD5-4A87-B2FB-37FDD029DDED@trebelhorn.com>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<BEF5ED6E-22A1-4B41-B2CA-591C4846871A@gmail.com>
	<F9D86995-ACD5-4A87-B2FB-37FDD029DDED@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <9f2527520909010659j324ef7feg53f450f7e7b95156@mail.gmail.com>

"It looks like an MGB to me..."

I think that's the root of the issue here.  It *looks* like an MGB.  But it
has fibreglass bodywork, no MG interior fittings, and an engine that, while
a version of a design that was fitted to the factory MGBGTV8, is a
very substantially different spec.  The suspension is likely different too
(although the article doesn't say).  So, arguably, if few of the components
in that car are actually shared with any standard factory MGB, it's more of
a "silhouette racer".  But then it's listed as a '72 - is that just
fanciful, or did a real '72 car donate enough of itself (i.e. more than it's
title!) that it's soul lives on in this vehicle?

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with any of that, and I'm glad that
someone is rich and daft enough to put together such a car.  It looks like
an impressive machine.

I guess the question is, philosophically, how much of a car needs to be made
of genuine MG parts for it to be an MG?  And that's a question that could
keep us going a long time...

I think few, if any, of the people on this list have any objection to MGs
being raced on grounds of rarity.  Not yet, anyway.

Richard

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Sep  1 08:15:20 2009
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 10:15:20 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
Message-ID: <bc9.54da7932.37ce8678@aol.com>

I guess I won't even raise the question of my Jamaican bodied MGA with 3.4  
engine.....but it still has an MGA frame and registration....
 
Is that one step even further from stock than that MGB? Probably.  I  still 
think of it as an MGA and it still feels like an MGA to me (although a  
rather robust one).
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 01/09/2009 7:02:53 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
rbgosling at googlemail.com writes:

I guess  the question is, philosophically, how much of a car needs to be 
made
of  genuine MG parts for it to be an MG?  And that's a question that  could
keep us going a long time...

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Tue Sep  1 08:27:55 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 10:27:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <9f2527520909010659j324ef7feg53f450f7e7b95156@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<BEF5ED6E-22A1-4B41-B2CA-591C4846871A@gmail.com>
	<F9D86995-ACD5-4A87-B2FB-37FDD029DDED@trebelhorn.com>
	<9f2527520909010659j324ef7feg53f450f7e7b95156@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C493DD5A-B4AD-4EDD-9AA3-33FE02646738@trebelhorn.com>

There's a link, in the page to which the original poster linked,  
which goes in to a lot of technical detail about the car.

In short answer to your question, yes -- it has MGB suspension.   
Springs from Moss, uprated lever shocks, re-arched rear leaf  
springs.  It's an MGB suspension.

MGB shell.  MGB suspension.  MGB-V8 motor.  (all of these items have  
been modified for racing.  If you don't like seeing items modified  
for racing in a race car... well, I'm not sure I can help.)

To me, that car doesn't even raise a question of genuine-ness.  It's  
got bodywork modeled after the factory Sebring race cars, a Rover V8  
like the factory installed, upgraded suspension.  It is an MGB race  
car -- if it's anything else, I can't even imagine what you would  
call it.

(and Bill, I love the Jamaican -- not that my vote counts for much.)
Matt

On 1 Sep, 2009, at 9:59 AM, Richard Gosling wrote:

> "It looks like an MGB to me..."
>
> I think that's the root of the issue here.  It *looks* like an  
> MGB.  But it has fibreglass bodywork, no MG interior fittings, and  
> an engine that, while a version of a design that was fitted to the  
> factory MGBGTV8, is a very substantially different spec.  The  
> suspension is likely different too (although the article doesn't  
> say).  So, arguably, if few of the components in that car are  
> actually shared with any standard factory MGB, it's more of a  
> "silhouette racer".  But then it's listed as a '72 - is that just  
> fanciful, or did a real '72 car donate enough of itself (i.e. more  
> than it's title!) that it's soul lives on in this vehicle?
>
> I'm not saying there's anything wrong with any of that, and I'm  
> glad that someone is rich and daft enough to put together such a  
> car.  It looks like an impressive machine.
>
> I guess the question is, philosophically, how much of a car needs  
> to be made of genuine MG parts for it to be an MG?  And that's a  
> question that could keep us going a long time...
>
> I think few, if any, of the people on this list have any objection  
> to MGs being raced on grounds of rarity.  Not yet, anyway.
>
> Richard

From eric at erickson.on.net  Tue Sep  1 08:19:29 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 23:49:29 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <4A9D2D71.1040408@erickson.on.net>

don wrote:
> Not sure what to think of this one!  Not much left of the essence of an 
> MGB . . .
> 
> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/31/impressive-build-1972-mgb-gt-v8-race-car/#more-2043 
> 
> 

Ewwwww... yukkkkk!

Give it to me, I know what to do with it.

Guys, she looks pretty cool to me.

So, what would you think of a little MGB like this?

http://www.plantperformance.com.au/images/Mort-1.png

or these GTs ...

http://gallery.mgcc.info/2007Sandown2/slides/IMGP0438.jpg
http://gallery.mgcc.info/2007Sandown2/slides/IMGP0213.jpg

Because I would give at least one of my hangy-down things to own either 
of those  :-)

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I guess.



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From Frankk12 at verizon.net  Tue Sep  1 08:37:29 2009
From: Frankk12 at verizon.net (Frank Krajewski)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 10:37:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<4A9D2D71.1040408@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <7407645379104A4394C13CC4FFDCCE32@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

If any of  you watch the British produced show "Chop Shop" on the Discovery 
Channel you would have seen them carve up a rb BGT lately to convert it into 
a drag racer for the Brighton drag races. It broke my heart to see them take 
the torches and grinders to it.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car


> don wrote:
>> Not sure what to think of this one!  Not much left of the essence of an 
>> MGB . . .
>>
>> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/31/impressive-build-1972-mgb-gt-v8-race-car/#more-2043
>
> Ewwwww... yukkkkk!
>
> Give it to me, I know what to do with it.
>
> Guys, she looks pretty cool to me.
>
> So, what would you think of a little MGB like this?
>
> http://www.plantperformance.com.au/images/Mort-1.png
>
> or these GTs ...
>
> http://gallery.mgcc.info/2007Sandown2/slides/IMGP0438.jpg
> http://gallery.mgcc.info/2007Sandown2/slides/IMGP0213.jpg
>
> Because I would give at least one of my hangy-down things to own either of 
> those  :-)
>
> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I guess.
>
>
>
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> _______________________________________________

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 10:55:21 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 11:55:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <9f2527520909010659j324ef7feg53f450f7e7b95156@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<BEF5ED6E-22A1-4B41-B2CA-591C4846871A@gmail.com>
	<F9D86995-ACD5-4A87-B2FB-37FDD029DDED@trebelhorn.com>
	<9f2527520909010659j324ef7feg53f450f7e7b95156@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A9D51F9.7020305@gmail.com>

Richard Gosling wrote:
> I guess the question is, philosophically, how much of a car needs to be made
> of genuine MG parts for it to be an MG?  And that's a question that could
> keep us going a long time...
My Victor is all MGB and MG-TF. I have been assured that it's recognized as a variant and can be entered in Marque events.

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/RockVictor.jpg

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/MGTF2atNight.jpg

-The Roxter
--

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Sep  1 12:17:29 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 20:17:29 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090831220741.04019bd8@pop.napanet.net>
	<4A9D2D71.1040408@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <A350A2D0D88946479F811E840786D4D9@uw471de61b465c>

Oh yes - I like the green GT of course.
Great pics.

Cheers!

Hans
71 BGT New Racing Green

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car


> don wrote:
>> Not sure what to think of this one!  Not much left of the essence of an 
>> MGB . . .
>>
>> http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/31/impressive-build-1972-mgb-gt-v8-race-car/#more-2043
>
> Ewwwww... yukkkkk!
>
> Give it to me, I know what to do with it.
>
> Guys, she looks pretty cool to me.
>
> So, what would you think of a little MGB like this?
>
> http://www.plantperformance.com.au/images/Mort-1.png
>
> or these GTs ...
>
> http://gallery.mgcc.info/2007Sandown2/slides/IMGP0438.jpg
> http://gallery.mgcc.info/2007Sandown2/slides/IMGP0213.jpg
>
> Because I would give at least one of my hangy-down things to own either of 
> those  :-)
>
> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I guess.
>
>
>
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia

From guinness at stclegal.com  Tue Sep  1 14:47:10 2009
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:47:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Update of MGA Lubrication Chart
Message-ID: <4A9D884E.9080505@stclegal.com>

Has anyone seen a modern conversion/substitution table for the old NLA 
products listed in the MGA lubrication charts, as found on page P2 of 
the Workshop manual.  A copy can be seen at: *http://tinyurl.com/orgbtg.

*If not, would anyone care to send me their recommendations for each (or 
any) category so I can compile an "updated" chart?  Thank you*
*
-- 
Robert Guinness

From strovato at optonline.net  Tue Sep  1 15:19:12 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 17:19:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Update of MGA Lubrication Chart
In-Reply-To: <4A9D884E.9080505@stclegal.com>
References: <4A9D884E.9080505@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <0KPB00B0E9Y5MZP0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Mike Ash has a Tech Session in MGA! on Annual Check-up, including 
some recommendations on fluids.  It is also in his compilation 
book.  It doesn't have brand-by-brand recommendations like the 
original chart though.  More like "I use Castrol GTX 20W-50".  Of 
course, this article predates the whole ZDDP thing.  I found his 
article in the March/April 1998 issue.  There was a very similar one 
in May/June 1992.  I'm not sure if there has been anything similar since 98.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep  1 15:53:13 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 17:53:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Gearbox wanted
Message-ID: <E1MibHy-0002ia-W9@iota.look.ca>

I am in need of a LT77 or R380 5-speed gearbox for my MGB GT 
V8.  Does anyone know where Ted Schumacher is as he has one I believe 
- he is not answering his phone.

  Also, does anyone have Glen Towery's and Mark of D&D's email 
addresses.  I tried the ones I had but both bounced back !

By the bye, I just got quoted for one BSW 3/8ths 2" bolts for my 
under-restoration '55 Aston ........$7.....$1.50 for the nut.   So 
guess I will go BSF at $12 with lock nut and washer FOR SIX.

Regards

Barrie Robinson

705-721-9060 (Canada)
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm            TRY 
www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 16:13:40 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:13:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <F9D86995-ACD5-4A87-B2FB-37FDD029DDED@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <C6C2EAA4.2346E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, my only objection is that it isn't eligible for most most (hardly any,
really) race classes. Doubling the displacement and number of cylinders
doesn't usually pass tech. So It's basically for a once-a-year event and
occasional track day -- a toy, in other words. Pretty expensive toy.




on 9/1/09 6:28 AM, Matt Trebelhorn at matt.lists at trebelhorn.com wrote:

> It looks like an MGB to me -- a GT with a Rover V8, just like they
> built at Abingdon.  What's wrong with that?  Weber carbs, an adequate
> radiator, big tires?  It's a race car, not a concours restoration.
> 
> And we're nowhere near the point that MGBs are too rare to be raced
> -- that's just a laughable proposition.
> 
> I don't think I'd spend $60,000 for it.  But it's a good looking race
> car.
> 
> Matt
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From rstarkweather at scottmadden.com  Tue Sep  1 16:42:53 2009
From: rstarkweather at scottmadden.com (Richard D Starkweather)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 18:42:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <C6C2EAA4.2346E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C6C31BAD.757B%rstarkweather@scottmadden.com>

Ummm...

The car is eligible in SVRA's Group 8.  SVRA is holding 11 events in 2009.
There are many more vintage racing organizations around the country where
this car could run as well.  It seems to me this is more than a once-a-year
car.

My 2 cents.

Rick Starkweather

> From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
> Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:13:40 -0700
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
>
> Yeah, my only objection is that it isn't eligible for most most (hardly
any,
> really) race classes. Doubling the displacement and number of cylinders
> doesn't usually pass tech. So It's basically for a once-a-year event and
> occasional track day -- a toy, in other words. Pretty expensive toy.
>
>
>
>
> on 9/1/09 6:28 AM, Matt Trebelhorn at matt.lists at trebelhorn.com wrote:
>
>> It looks like an MGB to me -- a GT with a Rover V8, just like they
>> built at Abingdon.  What's wrong with that?  Weber carbs, an adequate
>> radiator, big tires?  It's a race car, not a concours restoration.
>>
>> And we're nowhere near the point that MGBs are too rare to be raced
>> -- that's just a laughable proposition.
>>
>> I don't think I'd spend $60,000 for it.  But it's a good looking race
>> car.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive




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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 17:27:38 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 16:27:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <C6C31BAD.757B%rstarkweather@scottmadden.com>
Message-ID: <C6C2FBFA.2347D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

OK... I take it Group 8 is a class for V8 hot rods? I wonder how competitive
this would be, versus 5-liter Fords and Chevies...

I don't think SVRA operates out here in CA. Oh, I see they run HGP at
Infineon, is all.



on 9/1/09 3:42 PM, Richard D Starkweather at rstarkweather at scottmadden.com
wrote:

> Ummm...
> 
> The car is eligible in SVRA's Group 8.  SVRA is holding 11 events in 2009.
> There are many more vintage racing organizations around the country where
> this car could run as well.  It seems to me this is more than a once-a-year
> car.
> 
> My 2 cents.
> 
> Rick Starkweather
> 
>> From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
>> Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:13:40 -0700
>> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
>> 
>> Yeah, my only objection is that it isn't eligible for most most (hardly any,
>> really) race classes. Doubling the displacement and number of cylinders
>> doesn't usually pass tech. So It's basically for a once-a-year event and
>> occasional track day -- a toy, in other words. Pretty expensive toy.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> on 9/1/09 6:28 AM, Matt Trebelhorn at matt.lists at trebelhorn.com wrote:
>> 
>>> It looks like an MGB to me -- a GT with a Rover V8, just like they
>>> built at Abingdon.  What's wrong with that?  Weber carbs, an adequate
>>> radiator, big tires?  It's a race car, not a concours restoration.
>>> 
>>> And we're nowhere near the point that MGBs are too rare to be raced
>>> -- that's just a laughable proposition.
>>> 
>>> I don't think I'd spend $60,000 for it.  But it's a good looking race
>>> car.
>>> 
>>> Matt
>>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From eric at erickson.on.net  Tue Sep  1 17:59:39 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 09:29:39 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB GT V8 Race Car
In-Reply-To: <C6C2FBFA.2347D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C6C2FBFA.2347D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4A9DB56B.3080508@erickson.on.net>

Max Heim wrote:
> OK... I take it Group 8 is a class for V8 hot rods? I wonder how competitive
> this would be, versus 5-liter Fords and Chevies...
>
> I don't think SVRA operates out here in CA. Oh, I see they run HGP at
> Infineon, is all.
>
>
>   
Good, then send it out to Australia to race against this guy in the 
links I sent previously.

http://www.plantperformance.com.au/Motorsport.htm

"Plant Performance Group are pleased to be able to support Mort 
Fitzgerald and his MGB V8 race car. The MG is often acclaimed as being 
the fastest MG in the world with near 500HP and less than 1000kg. The MG 
can be seen racing in the Victorian Circuit Racing Series in both the MG 
and Sports car categories. "

We have a specific MG Class in the Victorian Circuit Racing Series that 
is very well participated in - but then those cars, as appropriate, step 
out into other classes.  I would be interested to see what it would race 
against in America.

I call it the Cobra killer because I have seen it have a decent go at a 
Cobra with a V8 Supercar engine.

I did a quick Google and came up with this lovely quote.

"In analysing the times on Natsoft the Fitzgerald MGB V8 and Punshon 
Cobra would have placed about midfield in the F5000 races".

Wouldn't you like an MGB that can run with those dogs?  F5000 - open 
wheelers on slicks?



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep  2 09:16:27 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 09:16:27 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] May have 73B for sale
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D091@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I have arrived to Portland, Oregon (Pacific Northwest USA) with my Land
Rover. I will be attending the All British Field Meet this weekend and
afterwards will make the 950 mile trek back home. The original plan was
to bring back a 1973 MGB but instead I will be bringing back a 1964 MGB.
My son needs to cut back on his growing collection. I hate to let the
73B go. Both cars are restoration projects, neither have run for years,
maybe decades. The 73B does not have a title. It is complete, even still
has the pollution control parts like the air pump intact. The rocker
panels and other rust prone areas are intact and appear without rust but
there are several areas on the hood and other seam areas with surface
rust (but no rust through). It has been under a tarp for many years.
British Auto Works has offered to buy it from my son, I think for around
$200 USD but they are a salvage yard for British cars. I can go take
more definitive pictures if anyone is interested. I think the car is in
Hillsboro. If anyone is interested, let me know. It needs a lot of work
but I'd rather see it go to someone to restore rather than letting it be
stripped for parts.



The 64B also requires a lot of work but much less on the body side.
However, it appears to be midpoint in a wire wheel conversion - front
has wire wheels, rear is still steel wheels. I also have two shafts for
the rear axle for wire wheels. Is that the conversion - to replace the
whole shafts? And how easy is it to do? I have the rest of the week to
determine what sort of parts I need before heading home. I normally have
to get parts mail order in Montana whereas I can find stuff locally
while here.



David Councill

64 MGB

67 MGBGT

72 MGB

01 Land Rover Discovery II SE7

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Sep  2 09:27:44 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 10:27:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] May have 73B for sale
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D091@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D091@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <AB9B2573-FF46-4B71-86D9-E4F61B5163EA@gmail.com>

I know on the Salisbury axle the case is physically narrower for the  
wire wheel model than the steel wheel.

I don't know on the tube type. But I bet it is as well.

If so, I'd guess the wire shafts wouldn't fit/fully engage into the  
diff.

On Sep 2, 2009, at 10:16 AM, Councill, David wrote:

> I have arrived to Portland, Oregon (Pacific Northwest USA) with my  
> Land
> Rover. I will be attending the All British Field Meet this weekend and
> afterwards will make the 950 mile trek back home. The original plan  
> was
> to bring back a 1973 MGB but instead I will be bringing back a 1964  
> MGB.
> My son needs to cut back on his growing collection. I hate to let the
> 73B go. Both cars are restoration projects, neither have run for  
> years,
> maybe decades. The 73B does not have a title. It is complete, even  
> still
> has the pollution control parts like the air pump intact. The rocker
> panels and other rust prone areas are intact and appear without rust  
> but
> there are several areas on the hood and other seam areas with surface
> rust (but no rust through). It has been under a tarp for many years.
> British Auto Works has offered to buy it from my son, I think for  
> around
> $200 USD but they are a salvage yard for British cars. I can go take
> more definitive pictures if anyone is interested. I think the car is  
> in
> Hillsboro. If anyone is interested, let me know. It needs a lot of  
> work
> but I'd rather see it go to someone to restore rather than letting  
> it be
> stripped for parts.
>
>
>
> The 64B also requires a lot of work but much less on the body side.
> However, it appears to be midpoint in a wire wheel conversion - front
> has wire wheels, rear is still steel wheels. I also have two shafts  
> for
> the rear axle for wire wheels. Is that the conversion - to replace the
> whole shafts? And how easy is it to do? I have the rest of the week to
> determine what sort of parts I need before heading home. I normally  
> have
> to get parts mail order in Montana whereas I can find stuff locally
> while here.
>
>
>
> David Councill
>
> 64 MGB
>
> 67 MGBGT
>
> 72 MGB
>
> 01 Land Rover Discovery II SE7
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
>    Individual Email | Traditional
>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
>    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join
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>
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>
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>    MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

From don at napanet.net  Wed Sep  2 11:39:34 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 10:39:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] value of removeable MGB hardtop?
In-Reply-To: <4A9DB56B.3080508@erickson.on.net>
References: <C6C2FBFA.2347D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<4A9DB56B.3080508@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090902103455.038555f8@pop.napanet.net>

Hi,

Anyone know what these sell for typically?  The top is supposed to be a 
factory one that came with a '67 B roadster  Are they sought after much?

I had a removeable hardtop on my '91 Miata SE and it was great, but my 2001 
doesn't have one.  They can make a car a lot more versatile.  Seem to be 
worth about $1000 for Miatas, but then they are used for racing puproses as 
they cut down wind resistance and don't weight much.

Thanks,
Don Scott
2001 Miata SE BRG (thinks it's an MG)
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1962 MGA

From twobees at sprynet.com  Wed Sep  2 13:34:24 2009
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 15:34:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs]  value of removable MGB hardtop?
Message-ID: <000101ca2c04$616d6110$6401a8c0@normoffice>

Don:

If it is a true factory h.t., it is probably worth about $1,000 in good
condition, possibly more.

You can tell if it is a real factory top by 2 things:
1 - a molded "W" in a raised circle at the center of the panel below the
rear window.  "W" is for Webasto.
2 - a pencil-written serial number under the chrome(?) trim piece I think on
the left side behind the side window.  You have to remove the trim piece to
see it.

Norm Sippel
had fact ht on my '66 B

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep  2 13:34:53 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 12:34:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] value of removeable MGB hardtop?
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090902103455.038555f8@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <C6C416ED.234D2%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

No, they aren't worth much of anything. I'll give you $50 for it.

;-)

Yes, they are considered desirable accessories. The factory ones are steel,
with rear quarter windows, and kind of an angular look. The typical
aftermarket hardtop (Snugtop is common) is fiberglass and more
rounded-looking. Some have quarter windows and some don't.

They don't seem to change hands very often, so I don't know what they might
go for. But if I found one in serviceable condition for $500, I'd be pretty
happy, I think.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/2/09 10:39 AM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> Anyone know what these sell for typically?  The top is supposed to be a
> factory one that came with a '67 B roadster  Are they sought after much?
> 
> I had a removeable hardtop on my '91 Miata SE and it was great, but my 2001
> doesn't have one.  They can make a car a lot more versatile.  Seem to be
> worth about $1000 for Miatas, but then they are used for racing puproses as
> they cut down wind resistance and don't weight much.
> 
> Thanks,
> Don Scott
> 2001 Miata SE BRG (thinks it's an MG)
> 1973 MGB GT (for sale)
> 1962 MGA

From shaws at mlcltd.com  Wed Sep  2 15:52:02 2009
From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 16:52:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] value of removeable MGB hardtop?
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090902103455.038555f8@pop.napanet.net>
References: <C6C2FBFA.2347D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<4A9DB56B.3080508@erickson.on.net>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090902103455.038555f8@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <D1B2ECC5-FC5D-48CA-A667-BEF52A1B8CD7@mlcltd.com>

On Sep 2, 2009, at 12:39 PM, don wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Anyone know what these sell for typically?  The top is supposed to  
> be a factory one that came with a '67 B roadster  Are they sought  
> after much?
>

They generally go for around $500 on e-bay.

Bob Shaw
shaws at mlcltd.com
shawsgarage at mlcltd.com

My MGA is NOT leaking - merely marking it's territory!

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Wed Sep  2 15:56:13 2009
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 16:56:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] value of removeable MGB hardtop?
In-Reply-To: <C6C416ED.234D2%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090902103455.038555f8@pop.napanet.net>
	<C6C416ED.234D2%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001801ca2c18$30e37250$92aa56f0$@net>

I was going to say $500 also.  That seems to be the average rate I have seen
for a "factory" top. 
Chad 
-72B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 2:35 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] value of removeable MGB hardtop?

No, they aren't worth much of anything. I'll give you $50 for it.

;-)

Yes, they are considered desirable accessories. The factory ones are steel,
with rear quarter windows, and kind of an angular look. The typical
aftermarket hardtop (Snugtop is common) is fiberglass and more
rounded-looking. Some have quarter windows and some don't.

They don't seem to change hands very often, so I don't know what they might
go for. But if I found one in serviceable condition for $500, I'd be pretty
happy, I think.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/2/09 10:39 AM, don at don at napanet.net wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> Anyone know what these sell for typically?  The top is supposed to be a
> factory one that came with a '67 B roadster  Are they sought after much?
> 
> I had a removeable hardtop on my '91 Miata SE and it was great, but my
2001
> doesn't have one.  They can make a car a lot more versatile.  Seem to be
> worth about $1000 for Miatas, but then they are used for racing puproses
as
> they cut down wind resistance and don't weight much.
> 
> Thanks,
> Don Scott
> 2001 Miata SE BRG (thinks it's an MG)
> 1973 MGB GT (for sale)
> 1962 MGA

_______________________________________________

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Sep  2 16:52:47 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 16:52:47 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] value of removable MGB hardtop?
In-Reply-To: <000101ca2c04$616d6110$6401a8c0@normoffice>
References: <000101ca2c04$616d6110$6401a8c0@normoffice>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D093@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I have what I believe is a factory hardtop for my 72B. The problem is
that I need two L brackets that hold the window frame together. So far
all I can find is the whole window assembly which the cheapest I have
seen would have to be ordered from a firm in Baldock, England. Does
anyone know a source just for the brackets?

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Norm 2Bs
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 1:34 PM
To: don at napanet.net; MG Digest
Subject: [Mgs] value of removable MGB hardtop?

Don:

If it is a true factory h.t., it is probably worth about $1,000 in good
condition, possibly more.

You can tell if it is a real factory top by 2 things:
1 - a molded "W" in a raised circle at the center of the panel below the
rear window.  "W" is for Webasto.
2 - a pencil-written serial number under the chrome(?) trim piece I
think on
the left side behind the side window.  You have to remove the trim piece
to
see it.

Norm Sippel
had fact ht on my '66 B

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  3 06:00:13 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 05:00:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Draining Radiator
Message-ID: <161933.65152.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I need to drain the radiator on my '76 B as I have a squealing water pump that needs to be replaced. My particular
radiator doesn't have a petcock (always like to try to work that word into conversation ;-) and I was able to use a
siphon method to get about a quart of fluid out of the upper tank. But I don't know what the internals of a radiator
look like so I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further inside to siphon out more, or if I just have to remove
the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the place.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  3 06:08:17 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 13:08:17 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Draining Radiator
References: <161933.65152.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002001ca2c8f$3d843360$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>

I've never had a problem with using the bottom hose.  Place a bowl underneath,
slacken the clip and start easing the hose off to control the flow rather than
just wrenching it off completely and letting the coolant gush everywhere.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----


    ... I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further inside to siphon
out more, or if I just have to remove
  the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the place.

  .

  __,_._,___

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  3 06:25:11 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 05:25:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Draining Radiator
In-Reply-To: <002001ca2c8f$3d843360$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>
References: <161933.65152.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<002001ca2c8f$3d843360$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>
Message-ID: <701103.81030.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

For some reason, mine seems to run all over the steering rack and onto the front crossmember. Then it really gets everywhere.
I guess I will just get a bunch of rags and put them all over the place under the car.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2009 8:08:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MG-MGB] Draining Radiator

I've never had a problem with using the bottom hose.  Place a bowl underneath, slacken the clip and start easing the hose off to control the flow rather than just wrenching it off completely and letting the coolant gush everywhere.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message ----- 


    ... I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further inside to siphon out more, or if I just have to remove
  the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the place.

  . 

  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  3 06:40:50 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 13:40:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Draining Radiator
References: <161933.65152.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<002001ca2c8f$3d843360$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>
	<701103.81030.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008101ca2c93$cfd5a420$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>

Good point, I was thinking of the V8 with the forward radiator.  Don't think I
have had to do it with the 73 roadster, it's still got the same bottom hose it
came to me with 20 years ago!  They don't make them like that anymore.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----


    For some reason, mine seems to run all over the steering rack and onto the
front crossmember.
  .

  __,_._,___

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  3 06:57:39 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 05:57:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Draining Radiator
In-Reply-To: <008101ca2c93$cfd5a420$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>
References: <161933.65152.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<002001ca2c8f$3d843360$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>
	<701103.81030.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<008101ca2c93$cfd5a420$0200a8c0@D1NKRF2J>
Message-ID: <820480.83422.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

No, they don't, I have been through several hoses (mostly lower ones) over the past few years. 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2009 8:40:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Draining Radiator

Good point, I was thinking of the V8 with the forward radiator.  Don't think I
have had to do it with the 73 roadster, it's still got the same bottom hose it
came to me with 20 years ago!  They don't make them like that anymore.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----


    For some reason, mine seems to run all over the steering rack and onto the
front crossmember.
  .

  __,_._,___
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep  3 07:16:10 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 09:16:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Draining Radiator
Message-ID: <20090903.091610.3524.0.MGBOB@juno.com>

Dan,
   The core of the radiator is a couple of inches (at most) below the
filler neck, so one can not remove much coolant with a syphon.  Remove
the lower hose and be ready for the mess.
Bob
 
On Thu, 3 Sep 2009 05:00:13 -0700 (PDT) Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
writes:
> I need to drain the radiator on my '76 B as I have a squealing water 
> pump that needs to be replaced. My particular
> radiator doesn't have a petcock (always like to try to work that 
> word into conversation ;-) and I was able to use a
> siphon method to get about a quart of fluid out of the upper tank. 
> But I don't know what the internals of a radiator
> look like so I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further 
> inside to siphon out more, or if I just have to remove
> the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the 
> place.
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase
> 
____________________________________________________________
Mountain West Bank - your local lea
Totally Free Checking, and more locations to serve you.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=sYP9U3emr482tkm2WELQ5gAAJ1CFcZuYg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAUAAAAAAAAAABQiYD6B0j2sLqh3MXE-hWhCb9gzAAAAAA==

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Thu Sep  3 07:20:29 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 09:20:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Draining radiator
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2482.1251982662.3240.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2482.1251982662.3240.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <48534A9C-47FE-433A-BDDB-CDC513DF1FD8@mgcarclub.com>

Since you will be half way there, take the radiator out, take it to a  
shop and have a drain installed. The water pump will be so much  
easier to do too. (that's what I did a few year ago)

> I need to drain the radiator on my '76 B as I have a squealing  
> water pump that needs to be replaced. My particular
> radiator doesn't have a petcock (always like to try to work that  
> word into conversation ;-) and I was able to use a
> siphon method to get about a quart of fluid out of the upper tank.  
> But I don't know what the internals of a radiator
> look like so I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further  
> inside to siphon out more, or if I just have to remove
> the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the place.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Sep  3 07:30:56 2009
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 08:30:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Draining Radiator
In-Reply-To: <161933.65152.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <161933.65152.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090903133154.461921878AC@autox.team.net>

At 05:00 AM 9/3/2009 -0700, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>I need to drain the radiator on my '76 B .... radiator doesn't have 
>a petcock .... if I just have to remove the lower hose ....
>....

Yup, that's it, disconnect the lower hose.

There is another possible way, but only if you're very lucky.  You 
can try draining the engine block.  The petcock or plug is on right 
side near the back, just aft of the distributor.  The port is usually 
clogged making the valve useless.  You may have to remove the valve, 
same as you would remove a plug, and the port will likely still be 
clogged.  Use a piece of heavy wire or rod held in a locking pliers 
(ViceGrip) to route around in the port, aiming the working end of the 
rod upward about 30 degrees.  If you get lucky you might clear the 
port enough to drain the coolant from the block.  That would get the 
coolant level down to the bottom of the water jacket, below the water 
pump, so you can change the water pump.

Al that said, the '76 B still had the radiator close to the fan, so 
you likely still have to remove the radiator to change the water pump 
anyway, and disconnecting the bottom hose is still the way to drain 
the radiator. 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  3 08:29:37 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 07:29:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Draining radiator
In-Reply-To: <48534A9C-47FE-433A-BDDB-CDC513DF1FD8@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.2482.1251982662.3240.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<48534A9C-47FE-433A-BDDB-CDC513DF1FD8@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <213765.25425.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well, I HAVE to remove the radiator since the '76 is still the mechanical fan with rearward-mounted radiator. But I
think I will have a drain installed, there is a rad shop close by.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Allen Hess <allenhess at mgcarclub.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2009 9:20:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Draining radiator

Since you will be half way there, take the radiator out, take it to a shop and have a drain installed. The water pump will be so much easier to do too. (that's what I did a few year ago)

> I need to drain the radiator on my '76 B as I have a squealing water pump that needs to be replaced. My particular
> radiator doesn't have a petcock (always like to try to work that word into conversation ;-) and I was able to use a
> siphon method to get about a quart of fluid out of the upper tank. But I don't know what the internals of a radiator
> look like so I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further inside to siphon out more, or if I just have to remove
> the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the place.
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Thu Sep  3 08:49:25 2009
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 10:49:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Draining radiator
In-Reply-To: <213765.25425.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.2482.1251982662.3240.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<48534A9C-47FE-433A-BDDB-CDC513DF1FD8@mgcarclub.com>
	<213765.25425.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090903104925.h2s8v4likys8o4w8@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

Dan, that is what I did after the same circumstances...saves a ton of
trouble. Well worth it.
Bill S.
'76B
'74B
BMCSNJ



Quoting Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>:

> Well, I HAVE to remove the radiator since the '76 is still the
> mechanical fan with rearward-mounted radiator. But I
> think I will have a drain installed, there is a rad shop close by.
>
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Allen Hess <allenhess at mgcarclub.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2009 9:20:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Draining radiator
>
> Since you will be half way there, take the radiator out, take it to
> a shop and have a drain installed. The water pump will be so much
> easier to do too. (that's what I did a few year ago)
>
>> I need to drain the radiator on my '76 B as I have a squealing
>> water pump that needs to be replaced. My particular
>> radiator doesn't have a petcock (always like to try to work that
>> word into conversation ;-) and I was able to use a
>> siphon method to get about a quart of fluid out of the upper tank.
>> But I don't know what the internals of a radiator
>> look like so I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further
>> inside to siphon out more, or if I just have to remove
>> the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the place.
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



William Saidel
Department of Biology
Laboratory for Neuromorphonomy &
Center for Computational & Integrative Biology
Rutgers University
Science Building, Room B-4
315 Penn Street
Camden, NJ  08102-1411

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Sep  3 09:20:47 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 11:20:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Help for Buffalo area
Message-ID: <E1MjE7L-0005gj-AR@eta.look.ca>

I have located a 5-speed Rover gearbox for my sick MGB GT V8 but it 
is in the US (I am 80km north of Toronto).  I can get it shipped to 
near the border then I can drive down and pick it up.  This saves me 
lots of cash as brokerage fees are stiff.  So I wondering if there is 
anyone in the Buffalo area to whom I can ship the gearbox, then I 
pick it up.  Or Port Huron (Sarnia) is another possibility.   Or any 
Canadian going and returning from the States?  I pay your 
gas!    Time is of the essence as the shop is anxious to get my 
machine out 'cos it is taking up space !!

Regards

Barrie Robinson

705-721-9060 (Canada)
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm            TRY 
www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies

From peter.schauss at ngc.com  Thu Sep  3 11:26:08 2009
From: peter.schauss at ngc.com (Schauss, R. Peter (IT Solutions))
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 12:26:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Brake pads
Message-ID: <CD9150D80CFCFB42BC73C40791C1E01905377A86@XMBIL112.northgrum.com>

After more than 60k miles it looks like my '80 B is going to need new
front brake pads.  I see that Moss lists three grades:  standard
(organic), semi-metallic, and ceramic.  For normal street driving, is
there any reason to go for anything other than the standard ones?

I have had the car since 1991 when it had 39k miles on it so I know that
the pads on the car are at least that old and probably contain asbestos.
Thus the pads the Moss is selling will probably not be identical to the
ones on the car.  Is that going to be an issue?

On the other hand, can I use the semi-metallic or ceramic pads without
risking excessive wear on my rotors?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Thu Sep  3 11:40:58 2009
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 12:40:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Draining Radiator
Message-ID: <4A9FFFAA.1090001@comcast.net>

On my two earlier cars without petcocks, I would loosen the lower hose 
clamp and work a short rod in between the hose and the tube allowing you 
to decant the fluid into a container.

While you've got it all empty and working the water pump, you can remove 
  the radiator and install a drain. The rad in my '67 was toast so I 
took the core from the '67 and the frame from the '69, combined them, 
drilled a hole in the bottom, and JB Welded a suitable nut to it (a 
flanged brass nut with pipe thread is best, but anything will work with 
a little teflon), went to NAPA and got a draincock to fit. Works like a 
charm. No leaks.

Unless, of course, originality is important.

Glenn


> Subject: [Mgs] Draining Radiator
> To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com, MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <161933.65152.qm at web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I need to drain the radiator on my '76 B as I have a squealing water pump that needs to be replaced. My particular
> radiator doesn't have a petcock (always like to try to work that word into conversation ;-) and I was able to use a
> siphon method to get about a quart of fluid out of the upper tank. But I don't know what the internals of a radiator
> look like so I'm not sure if I can sneak my tubing down further inside to siphon out more, or if I just have to remove
> the lower hose like I usually do and get coolant all over the place.
> -- 
> Be careful when you deal with old hippies. They can be real touchy.
> 
> 	- Ferris Bueller

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  3 11:47:51 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 10:47:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Brake pads
In-Reply-To: <CD9150D80CFCFB42BC73C40791C1E01905377A86@XMBIL112.northgrum.com>
Message-ID: <C6C54F57.2352D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I recently tried ceramic pads on another car, and I am very enthusiastic
about them. Supposedly they offer the fade resistance of semi-metallic, but
with good cold performance, and less abrasion of the disk. So far I have to
say they have lived up to the hype.

They have great bite dead cold (far better than organic), and on a 700-mile
mountain rally they did not fade in the least (however, I did boil the brake
fluid, but that's another issue). I don't have enough miles to check in on
the wear issue, but this particular car has expensive and relatively
delicate rotors, so that was part of my criteria.

For this application, they were more expensive than organic (+ 50%), but
considerably cheaper than semi-metallic. I don't know how Moss has them
priced.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 9/3/09 10:26 AM, Schauss, R. Peter (IT Solutions) at
peter.schauss at ngc.com wrote:

> After more than 60k miles it looks like my '80 B is going to need new
> front brake pads.  I see that Moss lists three grades:  standard
> (organic), semi-metallic, and ceramic.  For normal street driving, is
> there any reason to go for anything other than the standard ones?
> 
> I have had the car since 1991 when it had 39k miles on it so I know that
> the pads on the car are at least that old and probably contain asbestos.
> Thus the pads the Moss is selling will probably not be identical to the
> ones on the car.  Is that going to be an issue?
> 
> On the other hand, can I use the semi-metallic or ceramic pads without
> risking excessive wear on my rotors?
> 
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB

From kgrowler at gmail.com  Thu Sep  3 17:04:11 2009
From: kgrowler at gmail.com (Kim Tonry)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 18:04:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Factory Hardtops
Message-ID: <b3edb28c0909031604y1ece36acocae8406de4185f10@mail.gmail.com>

<<<You can tell if it is a real factory top by 2 things:
1 - a molded "W" in a raised circle at the center of the panel below the
rear window.  "W" is for Webasto.>>>
Not quite complete or entirely correct. W on a factory hardtop would be for
Watsonian Sidecar, not Webasto. And not all factory hardtops were made by
Watsonian. Originally Ferranti Laminations of Wales was the vendor who
supplied the factory hardtops. Watsonian came later.

Kim Tonry
Downers Grove, Illinois, U.S.A.

From mgmagnette at aim.com  Thu Sep  3 17:07:39 2009
From: mgmagnette at aim.com (mgmagnette)
Date: Thu,  3 Sep 2009 19:07:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Factory Hardtops
In-Reply-To: <b3edb28c0909031604y1ece36acocae8406de4185f10@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b3edb28c0909031604y1ece36acocae8406de4185f10@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cc5bc076.1dc7.4292.9c52.279d8c4d0bcf@aim.com>

Just to add to the legend...   "Original MGB" states that the early hardtops were high on resin, and very resistant to damage.  Later tops were full of talc and cracked when dropped.





<<<You can tell if it is a real factory top by 2 things: 
1 - a molded "W" in a raised circle at the center of the panel below the 
rear window.  "W" is for Webasto.>>> 
Not quite complete or entirely correct. W on a factory hardtop would be for 
Watsonian Sidecar, not Webasto. And not all factory hardtops were made by 
Watsonian. Originally Ferranti Laminations of Wales was the vendor who 
supplied the factory hardtops. Watsonian came later. 

Kim Tonry 
Downers Grove, Illinois, U.S.A. 

From awhitema at panix.com  Fri Sep  4 23:12:16 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 22:12:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
Message-ID: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>

I would like to thank everybody that gave me paint suggestions a  
little under a year and a half ago.  The car that was sent off to the  
painter has returned today.  I still have a lot left to do before she  
is roadworthy, but seeing that shiny New Racing Green colored car in  
my parking space is welcome relief.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman
'06 Subaru
'75 MGB (finally green, finally home)

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Sep  4 23:37:09 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 15:07:09 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
Message-ID: <4AA1F905.4030402@erickson.on.net>

Aaron Whiteman wrote:
> I would like to thank everybody that gave me paint suggestions a little 
> under a year and a half ago.  The car that was sent off to the painter 
> has returned today.  I still have a lot left to do before she is 
> roadworthy, but seeing that shiny New Racing Green colored car in my 
> parking space is welcome relief.
> 

Many of us know how you feel - congrats!


Eric
South Australia

From toms_mg at tombuchanan.net  Sat Sep  5 18:59:23 2009
From: toms_mg at tombuchanan.net (Tom Buchanan)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 17:59:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] TV Series
Message-ID: <6.0.0.22.2.20090905175728.036af2a8@mail.tombuchanan.net>

Who knows about this?   http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0285386/

Tom

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 10:59:02 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 09:59:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
Message-ID: <834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Let's see some pics!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>
To: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 1:12:16 AM
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned

I would like to thank everybody that gave me paint suggestions a little under a year and a half ago.  The car that was sent off to the painter has returned today.  I still have a lot left to do before she is roadworthy, but seeing that shiny New Racing Green colored car in my parking space is welcome relief.

--Aaron Whiteman
'06 Subaru
'75 MGB (finally green, finally home)
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Sep  6 11:45:15 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 10:45:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
	<834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6EFEDDC4-A898-4FA1-8EA3-4518C2177E9D@panix.com>

On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:59 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Let's see some pics!
>

OK!

I don't have much yet, because there's still much to be done.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronwhiteman/sets/72157615770994022/

New paint starts towards the end of the set.  I'll continue to add  
more as I make progress putting bits back on.

However, now that I have both doors essentially done (need to install  
panels), I'm going to go have some breakfast and buy some parts.

(rivets, some windshield sealant, screws of various sizes, etc)

All the hard jobs are yet to be tackled.  I hope to have the  
windshield in today, perhaps the heater too.

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Sep  6 11:48:29 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 10:48:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] those dohickies that hold the visors in place
Message-ID: <E67B40F0-C587-4914-BB13-4727021BE89D@panix.com>

Can I just drill out the rivets that hold the little rubber thing that  
holds the visor in place against the windshield?  I need to replace  
mine, but will just live with black tape if it involves taking the  
screen apart.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman
'75 B, in less pieces every day.

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Sep  6 16:42:35 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 15:42:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] those dohickies that hold the visors in place
In-Reply-To: <20090906175815.oonz1k3io8kkc4sk@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
References: <E67B40F0-C587-4914-BB13-4727021BE89D@panix.com>
	<20090906175815.oonz1k3io8kkc4sk@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <C5D02CB7-20EA-46EE-AF40-BB4BDEDAA22E@panix.com>

On Sep 6, 2009, at 2:58 PM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:

> Before you do, is it because the little rubber thing doesn't hold  
> the windshield in?
>
> If so, I wrapped some shrink wrap around the prong that is clipped  
> by the little rubber do hickey and that works for now. The shrink  
> wrap increases the diameter of the prong. (Many months later)

Correct.  They are both badly split, such that the no longer really  
held anything in place any more.

I was able to drill them out without too much trouble, though the  
rivet gun I'm using can't get in to get both rivets re-installed.   
Even with just one, the new ones hold a lot better than the old.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 20:18:22 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 19:18:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <6EFEDDC4-A898-4FA1-8EA3-4518C2177E9D@panix.com>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
	<834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<6EFEDDC4-A898-4FA1-8EA3-4518C2177E9D@panix.com>
Message-ID: <152935.23242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Looks great, Aaron, but you should have gone with the original Tundra ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Cc: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 1:45:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned


On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:59 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Let's see some pics!
> 

OK!

I don't have much yet, because there's still much to be done.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronwhiteman/sets/72157615770994022/

New paint starts towards the end of the set.  I'll continue to add more as I make progress putting bits back on.

However, now that I have both doors essentially done (need to install panels), I'm going to go have some breakfast and buy some parts.

(rivets, some windshield sealant, screws of various sizes, etc)

All the hard jobs are yet to be tackled.  I hope to have the windshield in today, perhaps the heater too.

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Sep  6 20:25:35 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 19:25:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <152935.23242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
	<834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<6EFEDDC4-A898-4FA1-8EA3-4518C2177E9D@panix.com>
	<152935.23242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E0FAE891-7455-419F-AB51-82960B87F252@panix.com>

On Sep 6, 2009, at 7:18 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Looks great, Aaron, but you should have gone with the original  
> Tundra ;-)

No way!  There's still Tundra paint on this car.  It doesn't look any  
better now that the rest of the car is green than it did when she was  
red.  I am shocked by how modern this car looks with the LE style air  
dam and new paint.

ObProgressContent: by standing on the engine with the bonnet removed  
and pushing down really hard while somebody else was helping coax  
things along, I was able to get the heater back in the car.  What a  
not fun job that is.  I wore gloves to protect the car from my bloody  
fingers.

If all goes well tomorrow, she might be roadworthy, sans a roof and  
carpets.

-- 
'75B

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Mon Sep  7 02:31:10 2009
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 09:31:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] TV Series
In-Reply-To: <6.0.0.22.2.20090905175728.036af2a8@mail.tombuchanan.net>
References: <6.0.0.22.2.20090905175728.036af2a8@mail.tombuchanan.net>
Message-ID: <9f2527520909070131i34cf3da3safb20150282cd374@mail.gmail.com>

Apparently a British series, but I never heard of it.  Still, I was 17 at
the time, and it doesn't look like the sort of program I'd have given much
attention to!

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

2009/9/6 Tom Buchanan <toms_mg at tombuchanan.net>

> Who knows about this?   http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0285386/
>
> Tom
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep  7 02:46:50 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 09:46:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] TV Series
References: <6.0.0.22.2.20090905175728.036af2a8@mail.tombuchanan.net>
	<9f2527520909070131i34cf3da3safb20150282cd374@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <86341BCFCF314054AEC1356D2A139FAA@D1NKRF2J>

These days I find myself looking at some old geezer on TV and if any dates 
are given subconsciously working out how old he is and realising with a 
shock he is younger than me!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> ...  Still, I was 17 at
> the time... 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 08:27:04 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 09:27:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <152935.23242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
	<834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<6EFEDDC4-A898-4FA1-8EA3-4518C2177E9D@panix.com>
	<152935.23242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B42738DD-E4EC-4D7F-9A27-C6732C12AD9F@gmail.com>

Don't start Dan.... :-)   Obviously it should be pale primrose, to  
counter act Eric having his painted blue. :-)

On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:18 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Looks great, Aaron, but you should have gone with the original  
> Tundra ;-)
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>
> To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> Cc: MG Mailing List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 1:45:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
>
>
> On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:59 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>
>> Let's see some pics!
>>
>
> OK!
>
> I don't have much yet, because there's still much to be done.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronwhiteman/sets/72157615770994022/
>
> New paint starts towards the end of the set.  I'll continue to add  
> more as I make progress putting bits back on.
>
> However, now that I have both doors essentially done (need to  
> install panels), I'm going to go have some breakfast and buy some  
> parts.
>
> (rivets, some windshield sealant, screws of various sizes, etc)
>
> All the hard jobs are yet to be tackled.  I hope to have the  
> windshield in today, perhaps the heater too.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Sep  7 10:23:03 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 01:53:03 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <B42738DD-E4EC-4D7F-9A27-C6732C12AD9F@gmail.com>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
	<834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<6EFEDDC4-A898-4FA1-8EA3-4518C2177E9D@panix.com>
	<152935.23242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<B42738DD-E4EC-4D7F-9A27-C6732C12AD9F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AA53367.4030006@erickson.on.net>

Paul Root wrote:
> Don't start Dan.... :-)   Obviously it should be pale primrose, to 
> counter act Eric having his painted blue. :-)
> 

OUCH!


Eric
'68 MGB
Adelaide, South Australia

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 10:55:05 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 11:55:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The intrepid car has returned
In-Reply-To: <4AA53367.4030006@erickson.on.net>
References: <1CE9F697-3398-412F-8D59-9403FF1D58DA@panix.com>
	<834485.79559.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<6EFEDDC4-A898-4FA1-8EA3-4518C2177E9D@panix.com>
	<152935.23242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<B42738DD-E4EC-4D7F-9A27-C6732C12AD9F@gmail.com>
	<4AA53367.4030006@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <198CC173-9999-4967-8240-285079FCF0C6@gmail.com>

:-)

You're blue does look really good. It's just, you know...

On Sep 7, 2009, at 11:23 AM, Eric Erickson wrote:

> Paul Root wrote:
>> Don't start Dan.... :-)   Obviously it should be pale primrose, to  
>> counter act Eric having his painted blue. :-)
>
> OUCH!
>
>
> Eric
> '68 MGB
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ricjohnsondm at msn.com  Mon Sep  7 15:04:32 2009
From: ricjohnsondm at msn.com (Ric Johnson)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 16:04:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] TV Series
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1252260001.32734.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1252260001.32734.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <COL111-DS15C2F750A56328FC990689C5EB0@phx.gbl>

Tom Buchanan wrote:
>Who knows about this?
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0285386/<http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0285386/>

"Morris Minor's Marvelous Motors"? Sounds intriguing. Wish IMDB had some more
information as to what it was. Another great British TV show they list but
have little info on other than cast is "Driving Ambition", a 1984 series about
a British housewife who decides to turn her everyday Mini into a racecar. It
showed on public television here in the US quite a few years ago and was
really a fun series.

Ric Johnson
Des Moines, Iowa
'71 MGB, '74 MGB-GT, '75 MGB
Webmaster - Des Moines Valley Region SCCA<http://www.dmvrscca.org/>

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Mon Sep  7 19:43:24 2009
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 18:43:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] value of removable MGB hardtop?
References: <000101ca2c04$616d6110$6401a8c0@normoffice>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D093@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <F2E421110FCA4F1EA8D5CC2F46C45E80@dannytyferm096>

David,
I'm in the process of restoring a factory hardtop, or what I thought to be 
one. It has a round indentation under the rear window with no "W" and I 
didn't see a pencil serial# under the trim.
I made new brackets out of 1/8" x 1/4" bar stock for the side windows.
Not to difficult to make and they work well.
Danny V.
'58 MGA
'76 MGB V6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: "MG Digest" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] value of removable MGB hardtop?


>I have what I believe is a factory hardtop for my 72B. The problem is
> that I need two L brackets that hold the window frame together. So far
> all I can find is the whole window assembly which the cheapest I have
> seen would have to be ordered from a firm in Baldock, England. Does
> anyone know a source just for the brackets?
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Norm 2Bs
> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 1:34 PM
> To: don at napanet.net; MG Digest
> Subject: [Mgs] value of removable MGB hardtop?
>
> Don:
>
> If it is a true factory h.t., it is probably worth about $1,000 in good
> condition, possibly more.
>
> You can tell if it is a real factory top by 2 things:
> 1 - a molded "W" in a raised circle at the center of the panel below the
> rear window.  "W" is for Webasto.
> 2 - a pencil-written serial number under the chrome(?) trim piece I
> think on
> the left side behind the side window.  You have to remove the trim piece
> to
> see it.
>
> Norm Sippel
> had fact ht on my '66 B
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 05:55:00 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 07:55:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
Message-ID: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>

I'm doing a complete rebuild of a 1971 MGB GT and I have the front
subframe out of the car for a go-over.  I have no parts in this to
lose and all the stock parts need to be overhauled.

Before I get into overhauling the stock parts, are there any
recommended upgrades from the wisdom of this collective?

The car will be a general purpose track rat and will see very little
street use.   I do not mind a harsh ride (bring it!)

- Steve

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Tue Sep  8 09:58:41 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 09:58:41 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] those dohickies that hold the visors in place
In-Reply-To: <E67B40F0-C587-4914-BB13-4727021BE89D@panix.com>
References: <E67B40F0-C587-4914-BB13-4727021BE89D@panix.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D09E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

That's exactly what I did - drilled them out and then riveted in new
rubber pieces. The usual precautions - just drill enough to remove the
rivet and use the minimum length rivet needed for the job so it doesn't
contact the glass in anyway (not sure if this is a problem, wasn't for
me).

David Councill
64 MGB
67 MGBGT
72 MGB

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:48 AM
To: MG Mailing List
Subject: [Mgs] those dohickies that hold the visors in place

Can I just drill out the rivets that hold the little rubber thing that
holds the visor in place against the windshield?  I need to replace
mine, but will just live with black tape if it involves taking the
screen apart.

--
Aaron Whiteman
'75 B, in less pieces every day.

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Sep  8 11:33:53 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 19:33:53 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B2C01525E97C449C829DB8B9A268952B@uw471de61b465c>

Take at least V8 bushings in the swing arms, I assume currently there are 
even better types available, which are lasting long and offer a very good 
road behaviour.

Depending of the purpose the GT will have, you might opt. for some camber or 
caster alterations, when you are planning to rallying, racing etc.
For typical classic car usage the basic setup is fine.

Cheers,

71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:55 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades


> I'm doing a complete rebuild of a 1971 MGB GT and I have the front
> subframe out of the car for a go-over.  I have no parts in this to
> lose and all the stock parts need to be overhauled.
>
> Before I get into overhauling the stock parts, are there any
> recommended upgrades from the wisdom of this collective?
>
> The car will be a general purpose track rat and will see very little
> street use.   I do not mind a harsh ride (bring it!)
>
> - Steve

From don at napanet.net  Tue Sep  8 12:38:53 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 11:38:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
In-Reply-To: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>

I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across this 
car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have MGB prices 
recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been a high price on an 
early B roadster at a prominent auction like that $90,000 TR4 which had 
every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?

The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have 
concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't see 
overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire hose clamps, 
period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with this asking 
price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be worth that kind of 
money??????

http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html


__________________________________________________________-



Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1962 MGA Mk II 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 12:59:35 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 13:59:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <5CDD0E7B-F6A5-4C48-B3DD-78DC8E4D4EA8@gmail.com>

He's been watching MGBs go for $25-32k? Really. On what planet?

Half that, maybe. But then, it's not original, numbers don't match.

Does that drivers door shut correctly? He couldn't take the time to  
get the door to latch before taking pictures?

I can't imagine anyone ever paying that much for a run of the mill B.


On Sep 8, 2009, at 1:38 PM, don wrote:

> I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across  
> this car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have  
> MGB prices recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been  
> a high price on an early B roadster at a prominent auction like that  
> $90,000 TR4 which had every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?
>
> The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have  
> concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't  
> see overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire  
> hose clamps, period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with  
> this asking price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be  
> worth that kind of money??????
>
> http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html
>
>
> __________________________________________________________-
>
>
>
> Don Scott
> Calistoga CA
> 2001 Miata SE BRG
> 1973 MGB GT (for sale)
> 1962 MGA Mk II
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 13:04:00 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 14:04:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <A6136023-E303-40C4-B6E9-04BCD9F0FEC5@gmail.com>

BTW, here's another 67 white on ebay, with a 5 main and 4 synchro. And  
wires. No bids at $9000

Looks better too, especially the engine bay.

http://tinyurl.com/lhskuj

On Sep 8, 2009, at 1:38 PM, don wrote:

> I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across  
> this car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have  
> MGB prices recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been  
> a high price on an early B roadster at a prominent auction like that  
> $90,000 TR4 which had every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?
>
> The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have  
> concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't  
> see overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire  
> hose clamps, period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with  
> this asking price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be  
> worth that kind of money??????
>
> http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html
>
>
> __________________________________________________________-
>
>
>
> Don Scott
> Calistoga CA
> 2001 Miata SE BRG
> 1973 MGB GT (for sale)
> 1962 MGA Mk II
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  8 13:08:12 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 12:08:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <894230.27600.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The guy is smoking weed. He must be watching sales from Hemmings, and only looking at the advertised prices!
Assuming the car is rust-free and runs perectly, I would think this is a $15k car.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: don <don at napanet.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2009 2:38:53 PM
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?

I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across this car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have MGB prices recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been a high price on an early B roadster at a prominent auction like that $90,000 TR4 which had every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?

The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't see overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire hose clamps, period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with this asking price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be worth that kind of money??????

http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html


__________________________________________________________-



Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1962 MGA Mk II 
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Sep  8 13:22:53 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 21:22:53 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <709ED4358CA04405B015E4F55C867352@uw471de61b465c>

Far from original:
67 engine, Minilite alloys, rocker cover not original type, missing decals 
on carb fileters, rocker cover, heater unit, dash is not original with an 
extra gauge mounted, 8 front wheels instead of 4 (lol), jack should be black 
I think....

A current advert in the Dutch version of Craigslist show a comparable and 
more original (except steering wheel) example with asking price of 11,900.00 
EURO's. http://link.marktplaats.nl/277679758
When looking at the tail lights, these seem to be different as well.
Ex-California.

So I'd say the $25,999.00 is overasked...
But I would consider trading with mine...

Cheers,

Hans

712 BGT



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 8:38 PM
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?


>I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across this 
>car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have MGB prices 
>recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been a high price on an 
>early B roadster at a prominent auction like that $90,000 TR4 which had 
>every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?
>
> The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have 
> concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't see 
> overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire hose 
> clamps, period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with this asking 
> price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be worth that kind of 
> money??????
>
> http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Sep  8 13:32:00 2009
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 14:32:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
Message-ID: <4AA6B130.6060801@comcast.net>

I must say, I got caster wedges (from Tucker on the cottage industry 
list) for my '67 and didn't find that great of a difference - at least 
not enough to justify the cost of the Costello version. I'm running 
185's on the car.

I've been real happy in the past with a 7/8" swaybar and HD valves in 
the Armstrong shocks. My car is primarily a daily driver, though. You 
might also try some longer lower a-arms.

One thing at a time. If you do all the mods at once you won't have a 
clue what's working and what isn't and what parts are actually working 
*against* each other.

Glenn

> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
> To: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>, "MG List"
> 	<mgs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <B2C01525E97C449C829DB8B9A268952B at uw471de61b465c>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> Take at least V8 bushings in the swing arms, I assume currently there are 
> even better types available, which are lasting long and offer a very good 
> road behaviour.
> 
> Depending of the purpose the GT will have, you might opt. for some camber or 
> caster alterations, when you are planning to rallying, racing etc.
> For typical classic car usage the basic setup is fine.
> 
>

etc., and,

>> > I'm doing a complete rebuild of a 1971 MGB GT and I have the front
>> > subframe out of the car for a go-over.  I have no parts in this to
>> > lose and all the stock parts need to be overhauled.
>> >
>> > Before I get into overhauling the stock parts, are there any
>> > recommended upgrades from the wisdom of this collective?
>> >
>> > The car will be a general purpose track rat and will see very little
>> > street use.   I do not mind a harsh ride (bring it!)
>> >
>> > - Steve



-- 
Be careful when you deal with old hippies. They can be real touchy.

	- Ferris Bueller

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  8 13:25:36 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 14:25:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com><6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
	<5CDD0E7B-F6A5-4C48-B3DD-78DC8E4D4EA8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F30CE22EEFFF403BA48ADB74818BC582@ranteer.local>

what am i missing?  i don't see the pictures

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: "don" <don at napanet.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?


> He's been watching MGBs go for $25-32k? Really. On what planet?
> 
> Half that, maybe. But then, it's not original, numbers don't match.
> 
> Does that drivers door shut correctly? He couldn't take the time to  
> get the door to latch before taking pictures?
> 
> I can't imagine anyone ever paying that much for a run of the mill B.
> 
> 
> On Sep 8, 2009, at 1:38 PM, don wrote:
> 
>> I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across  
>> this car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have  
>> MGB prices recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been  
>> a high price on an early B roadster at a prominent auction like that  
>> $90,000 TR4 which had every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?
>>
>> The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have  
>> concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't  
>> see overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire  
>> hose clamps, period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with  
>> this asking price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be  
>> worth that kind of money??????
>>
>> http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Sep  8 13:45:06 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 21:45:06 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com><6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net><5CDD0E7B-F6A5-4C48-B3DD-78DC8E4D4EA8@gmail.com>
	<F30CE22EEFFF403BA48ADB74818BC582@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4B60E8087406466D8D971553D037EF0F@uw471de61b465c>

http://www.kjbaudry.com/mgb/index_2.htm 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?


> what am i missing?  i don't see the pictures
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
> To: "don" <don at napanet.net>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:59 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
> 
> 
>> He's been watching MGBs go for $25-32k? Really. On what planet?
>> 
>> Half that, maybe. But then, it's not original, numbers don't match.
>> 
>> Does that drivers door shut correctly? He couldn't take the time to  
>> get the door to latch before taking pictures?
>> 
>> I can't imagine anyone ever paying that much for a run of the mill B.
>> 
>> 
>> On Sep 8, 2009, at 1:38 PM, don wrote:
>> 
>>> I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across  
>>> this car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have  
>>> MGB prices recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been  
>>> a high price on an early B roadster at a prominent auction like that  
>>> $90,000 TR4 which had every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?
>>>
>>> The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have  
>>> concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't  
>>> see overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire  
>>> hose clamps, period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with  
>>> this asking price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be  
>>> worth that kind of money??????
>>>
>>> http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Tue Sep  8 13:45:50 2009
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 15:45:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com><6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
	<5CDD0E7B-F6A5-4C48-B3DD-78DC8E4D4EA8@gmail.com>
	<F30CE22EEFFF403BA48ADB74818BC582@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <D763027DD760459581A1BD662BFA85AA@frankdcczr6l6k>

I don't see them either but it sounds like it's not as nice as Bill 
Bassett's wife's car here in RI.
Where are the photos everyone is referring to?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?


> what am i missing?  i don't see the pictures
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
> To: "don" <don at napanet.net>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:59 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
>
>
>> He's been watching MGBs go for $25-32k? Really. On what planet?
>>
>> Half that, maybe. But then, it's not original, numbers don't match.
>>
>> Does that drivers door shut correctly? He couldn't take the time to  get 
>> the door to latch before taking pictures?
>>
>> I can't imagine anyone ever paying that much for a run of the mill B.
>>
>>
>> On Sep 8, 2009, at 1:38 PM, don wrote:
>>
>>> I am always on the lookout for an early B roadster, and came across 
>>> this car.  Has the US dollar suddenly lost half its value, or have  MGB 
>>> prices recently launched into the stratosphere?  Has there been  a high 
>>> price on an early B roadster at a prominent auction like that  $90,000 
>>> TR4 which had every TR4 owner thinking he was suddenly rich?
>>>
>>> The white B roadster in the ad is certainly nice, but does not have 
>>> concours quality detailing from what I see in the photos.  I don't  see 
>>> overdrive, the proper little decals on engine pieces, the wire  hose 
>>> clamps, period radio, and so on I would expect in a car with  this 
>>> asking price.  Even if it was concours quality, would it be  worth that 
>>> kind of money??????
>>>
>>> http://atlanta.en.craigslist.org/atl/cto/1362180723.html

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Tue Sep  8 13:58:43 2009
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 15:58:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Rear Wiring Harness
Message-ID: <4AA6B773.702@comcast.net>

When I took my 1967 MGB GT apart I failed to photo or note the rear 
wiring harness route.  I assume it run along the underside of the car in 
the brackets with the tail light portion running through a grommet into 
the trunk area.  Any advice is welcomed.

Thanks,

Larry Swift

From DMatt21502 at aol.com  Tue Sep  8 14:37:52 2009
From: DMatt21502 at aol.com (DMatt21502 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 16:37:52 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] High Priced 67 MGB
Message-ID: <c14.6b962c50.37d81aa0@aol.com>

I think the guy got what he wanted!!! Lots of discussion on the list and  
lots of people looking at the pictures. Someone out there might offer him 
half  and I bet he takes it !!!  

From don at napanet.net  Tue Sep  8 15:10:13 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 14:10:13 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] High Priced 67 MGB
In-Reply-To: <c14.6b962c50.37d81aa0@aol.com>
References: <c14.6b962c50.37d81aa0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090908140736.04868e60@pop.napanet.net>

I think it's like real estate- don't overprice to start with or you'll be 
stuck with your house (car) for a long time because people will think 
you're not grounded in reality.  When I see an excessive asking price for 
something, I just move on in my search.




At 01:37 PM 09/08/2009, DMatt21502 at aol.com wrote:
>I think the guy got what he wanted!!! Lots of discussion on the list and
>lots of people looking at the pictures. Someone out there might offer him
>half  and I bet he takes it !!!
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.83/2353 - Release Date: 09/08/09 
>06:48:00

From sales at justbrits.com  Tue Sep  8 16:18:22 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 17:18:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
In-Reply-To: <894230.27600.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
	<894230.27600.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AA6D82E.20302@justbrits.com>

<<The guy is smoking weed. >>

Better stuff then run-of-the mill grass would
'normally' be, Dan <VBG> !!!!

And IMHO, the car "might be" OK at $10k and
not a penny more.  Just TOO much WRONG !!

Shame. too.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From sales at justbrits.com  Tue Sep  8 16:22:36 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 17:22:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
In-Reply-To: <A6136023-E303-40C4-B6E9-04BCD9F0FEC5@gmail.com>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
	<A6136023-E303-40C4-B6E9-04BCD9F0FEC5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AA6D92C.4080802@justbrits.com>

<<Looks better too, especially the engine bay. >>

That IS an understatement, Paul <G> !!!

And were it a private individual, bet one
'could' get it for less than the $9k BIN
price<VBG>!!!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Sep  8 17:53:13 2009
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 18:53:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
Message-ID: <4AA6EE69.6090902@comcast.net>

Pix are at www.kjbaudry.com/mgb

Not so much an extra gauge as an extra button under the oil/temp, 
probably a starter button unless I miss. There *is* a switch in the 
overdrive position, but missing the escutcheon plate. For a show car I'd 
want the glove box finish to match the rest of the dash. And I'd 
certainly have got rid of the scuff marks on the inner door panels 
before taking pictures of a $25k car. The boot lid doesn't fit and it's 
got large holes blasted in it for a missing luggage rack that may be 
show, but not concours. According to the pix, there's no spare tire and 
I see a little surface rust in the upper left corner of the boot. Yes, 
the jack and lug wrench are supposed to be black, and there's no mention 
of the bags for the tools or the top frame and no mention of a tonneau 
and bows and bag for the bows. Looking closely at the passenger seat, I 
see the seats were recovered in vinyl long enough ago that there's 
already a mend in the squab. All of the above remarks about the engine 
bay. Other than that it's a nice car. I'd give maybe $6k. The rear 
window is clean. It would have to be a zip down though.

The other two cars mentioned are much nicer. Maybe he just told his wife 
he's *trying* to sell it to keep peace in the valley.

Glenn




> Subject: Re: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
> 
> 
>> > what am i missing?  i don't see the pictures
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message ----- 
>> > From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
>> > To: "don" <don at napanet.net>
>> > Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> > Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:59 PM
>> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
>> >
>> >
>>> >> He's been watching MGBs go for $25-32k? Really. On what planet?
>>> >>


-- 
Be careful when you deal with old hippies. They can be real touchy.

	- Ferris Bueller

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Tue Sep  8 20:48:34 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 22:48:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
In-Reply-To: <B2C01525E97C449C829DB8B9A268952B@uw471de61b465c>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<B2C01525E97C449C829DB8B9A268952B@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <4AA71782.8070103@snet.net>

Although it was on my MGA race car, I had a bad experience with V8 
bushings.  They are pressed in to the arm but have no distinct shoulder 
to take up the space between the A-arms and the ends of the pivot.  Too 
many hard right turns ultimately pushed the a-arm back to the washer and 
nut with the excess rubber of the mount squeezed out to the front.  This 
raised hell with the geometry and bent the shock arms.  I replaced them 
with the red urethane bushings.  They have a distinct shoulder formed in 
to them so the same thing can't happen.

Hans Duinhoven wrote:
> Take at least V8 bushings in the swing arms, I assume currently there 
> are even better types available, which are lasting long and offer a 
> very good road behaviour.
>
> Depending of the purpose the GT will have, you might opt. for some 
> camber or caster alterations, when you are planning to rallying, 
> racing etc.
> For typical classic car usage the basic setup is fine.
>
> Cheers,
>
> 71 BGT
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:55 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
>
>
>> I'm doing a complete rebuild of a 1971 MGB GT and I have the front
>> subframe out of the car for a go-over.  I have no parts in this to
>> lose and all the stock parts need to be overhauled.
>>
>> Before I get into overhauling the stock parts, are there any
>> recommended upgrades from the wisdom of this collective?
>>
>> The car will be a general purpose track rat and will see very little
>> street use.   I do not mind a harsh ride (bring it!)
>>
>> - Steve
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Sep  8 20:53:29 2009
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 21:53:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] $25,999 MGB?
In-Reply-To: <4AA6D82E.20302@justbrits.com>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090908112320.04a3ed88@pop.napanet.net>
	<894230.27600.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4AA6D82E.20302@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4AA718A9.6030102@ktc.com>

Hey Ed,

   You can have my '69 roadster for $6K all day.  ~12K on the complete 
engine rebuild, OD, wires, Coopers, good top, new tonneau, spare parts, 
etc, etc.

   Haven't driven it in 3 mos.  Gettin' too old........

   CR



Sales at " Just Brits " wrote:
> <<The guy is smoking weed. >>
> 
> Better stuff then run-of-the mill grass would
> 'normally' be, Dan <VBG> !!!!
> 
> And IMHO, the car "might be" OK at $10k and
> not a penny more.  Just TOO much WRONG !!
> 
> Shame. too.
> 
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  8 21:08:06 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 22:08:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] anything happening the weekend of nov 13-14
Message-ID: <B7002CC624654FD5BB8233BC2D713E48@ranteer.local>

looks like i'll be in the philadelphia area that weekend

anything going on?

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 07:37:05 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 09:37:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
In-Reply-To: <4AA71782.8070103@snet.net>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<B2C01525E97C449C829DB8B9A268952B@uw471de61b465c>
	<4AA71782.8070103@snet.net>
Message-ID: <76664a460909090637w528aad19mbb47fec49156b1bd@mail.gmail.com>

I looked at the fast cars front subframe replacement.  Its about $4k
delivered and includes many upgrades all at once.  Probably more than
I'll notice and definitely more than I can afford right now.

Has anybody tried the telescopic shock upgrade?

I'm looking into maintainability and the only way I can see to
maintain the armstrongs would be to remove the front sub frame, remove
the armstrongs and re-valve/fill them.

Am I wrong?

On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 10:48 PM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net> wrote:
> Although it was on my MGA race car, I had a bad experience with V8
bushings.
>  They are pressed in to the arm but have no distinct shoulder to take up
the
> space between the A-arms and the ends of the pivot.  Too many hard right
> turns ultimately pushed the a-arm back to the washer and nut with the
excess
> rubber of the mount squeezed out to the front.  This raised hell with the
> geometry and bent the shock arms.  I replaced them with the red urethane
> bushings.  They have a distinct shoulder formed in to them so the same
thing
> can't happen.
>
> Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>>
>> Take at least V8 bushings in the swing arms, I assume currently there are
>> even better types available, which are lasting long and offer a very good
>> road behaviour.
>>
>> Depending of the purpose the GT will have, you might opt. for some camber
>> or caster alterations, when you are planning to rallying, racing etc.
>> For typical classic car usage the basic setup is fine.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> 71 BGT
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
>> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:55 PM
>> Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
>>
>>
>>> I'm doing a complete rebuild of a 1971 MGB GT and I have the front
>>> subframe out of the car for a go-over.  I have no parts in this to
>>> lose and all the stock parts need to be overhauled.
>>>
>>> Before I get into overhauling the stock parts, are there any
>>> recommended upgrades from the wisdom of this collective?
>>>
>>> The car will be a general purpose track rat and will see very little
>>> street use.   I do not mind a harsh ride (bring it!)
>>>
>>> - Steve
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From awhitema at panix.com  Wed Sep  9 07:45:30 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 06:45:30 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
In-Reply-To: <76664a460909090637w528aad19mbb47fec49156b1bd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com>
	<B2C01525E97C449C829DB8B9A268952B@uw471de61b465c>
	<4AA71782.8070103@snet.net>
	<76664a460909090637w528aad19mbb47fec49156b1bd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <159533E3-801D-4C0D-89B1-DD59B0C5BA81@panix.com>

On Sep 9, 2009, at 6:37 AM, Steve wrote:

> I'm looking into maintainability and the only way I can see to
> maintain the armstrongs would be to remove the front sub frame, remove
> the armstrongs and re-valve/fill them.
>
> Am I wrong?


The Armstrong front shocks attach to the subframe with, IIRC 4 bolts.   
To remove them, you disconnect the upper arm from the suspension, then  
remove the shock body from the car.

You then replace them with rebuilds that have a lifetime warranty and  
stop worrying about it.  When I asked Peter C what I should do to  
maintain the shocks I bought from him, the response was "nothing."

I think I had both replaced in one evening.	

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Sep  9 08:03:38 2009
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 10:03:38 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
Message-ID: <d37.529fe467.37d90fba@aol.com>

Yes, fortunately for all of us, you are wrong on that one.  Just keep  them 
topped up with oil and they'll last for as long as you own the car,  
assuming they were in good condition to start with.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 09/09/2009 6:41:39 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
temporarilyoffline at gmail.com writes:

I'm  looking into maintainability and the only way I can see to
maintain the  armstrongs would be to remove the front sub frame, remove
the armstrongs  and re-valve/fill them.

Am I wrong?

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Sep  2 11:14:01 2009
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 12:14:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Update of MGA Lubrication Chart
In-Reply-To: <4A9D884E.9080505@stclegal.com>
References: <4A9D884E.9080505@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <20090902171647.C2B1C18788B@autox.team.net>

At 03:47 PM 9/1/2009 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>Has anyone seen a modern conversion/substitution table for the old 
>NLA products listed in the MGA lubrication charts, as found on page 
>P2 of the Workshop manual.  A copy can be seen at: *http://tinyurl.com/orgbtg.
>....

There is nothing special about the lubricants by brand name, and most 
of the specifications are right there in the original chart.

Engine oil and air cleaners: 30W, 20W, 10W, depending on ambient temperature.
Back in the day these were mostly straight weight non-detergent oils, 
because that's what was widely available.  Today we have nice 
multi-weight detergent oils.  You can use any multi-weight grade the 
spans the straight weight spec.  For instance, 10W-30 can be used in 
place of 10W or 20W or 30W, so you no longer have to do seasonal oil 
changes.  If you're not terribly picky about a minor difference in 
fuel economy you can use 10W40 or 20W50 oil for a little better 
engine protection.  I wouldn't recommend 20W50 for sub-freezing 
temperatures, because it may be harder to crank and it makes for low 
oil pressure on startup until it warms up some.  I've been running 
20W50 for warm weather and 10W40 for cold weather in my MGA  for the 
last 230,000 miles.

I'm surprised the chart doesn't mention gearbox oil, but use engine 
oil in the gearbox, same stuff as in the engine and for all the same 
reasons.  The gearbox is not so sensitive to cold weather, so I use 
20W50 oil in the gearbox all year round.

Rear axle (hypoid) and steering gear: EP90 or EP80.
The key here is the "EP" spec, meaning Extreme Pressure".  This is to 
protect the high pressure point contact interface in the ring and 
pinion hypoid gears.  This is usually accomplished with Sulfur 
additives, which can give the oil that rotten egg smell.  Do not put 
EP oil in the gearbox, as it tends to ear brass synchro rings.  These 
days we have nice multi-weight EP oil in the form of EP85-90, EP80W90, EP75W90.

Water pump and lubrication nipples:  General purpose Lithium grease.
Nothing special here, just the common stuff you get in the cardboard 
cartridges for your modern grease gun.

Utility lubricant, S.U. Carburetor dampers, Oil can points, etc:
Again nothing special, just 20 weight engine oil to put in your hand 
held oil can.  Good also for distributor mechanical advance parts, 
generator rear bearing, and some water pumps that may have an oiler 
cap instead of a grease nipple, any place you see an oil can in the 
shop manual.

Upper cylinder lubricant:
This is the fun one.  Aside from all the fancy brand names, "Upper 
cylinder lubricant" is a generic description of a specific type of 
oil.  You can think of it as 100% dino oil with no fancy additives 
(at least the original version), 20 weight for most uses, 10 weight 
for cold weather.  The most common brand name from 1923 to present is 
"Marvel Mystery Oil".  http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com
More modern formulations may include a touch of solvent (kerosene for 
instance) to clean fuel injectors and remove carbon from combustion chambers.

In case you didn't know, you put this stuff in the gasoline (or apply 
with intake oil injector for running engine).  Modern engines do okay 
with 1000/1 mixing ratio for daily use, older engines or fuel systems 
of engines in need of a one time cleansing may like 500/1 mixing 
ratio for teh first tank of fuel.  That translates to 1-1/4 to 2-1/2 
ounces per 10 gallons of fuel.  If your car gets 25 mpg, it's 1 to 2 
ounces for every 200 miles.  That makes it hard to meter at such a 
low flow rate (see special oil metering devices).

This stuff was more important back in the day when fuel formulas 
might vary all over the map, as it may increase octane rating as well 
as help lubricate and clean parts in the combustion chamber, and it 
may decrease problems of wax or water in the fuel tank in cold and 
humid weather.  Some modern products are claimed to be formulated 
different for diesel engines vs. gasoline engines.  Modern engines 
might run 1/4 million miles without using this stuff, but it seems to 
be gaining popularity again since removal of lead from motor 
fuel.  It may still hold some benefit for use in older engines to 
prolong life of valves, valve seats, and valve guides.  Any claims 
that the engine might run smoother or have more power may be entirely 
subjective, or might have something to do with a worn out 
engine.  Any claims for increased fuel mileage probably cannot be 
proven.  It may very well make the engine last longer before it wears 
out, but any financial benefit would only be realized many years 
later when the engine might continue running beyond it's normal life 
expectancy.  I would not even venture to guess how much it might ad 
to the life of an engine (if any).  Like any fuel additive, if you 
abuse it (incorrect quantity for instance) it may cause more harm than good.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep 10 01:46:58 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 08:46:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Rear Wiring Harness
References: <4AA6B773.702@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3E44E58996EC45E5A70FBEA585C95CFF@D1NKRF2J>

It does indeed.  It comes up through a hole in the right-hand corner of the 
raised shelf in the boot, goes up to the top for the boot light switch and 
light, then backwards and down to the right-hand rear light cluster, then 
across the floor right at the back to the other lights.  As well as chapter 
and verse on detailed changes Clausager has a number of photos which are 
often very helpful for resolving issues such a this.  It shows a 64 with, 
working from prop-shaft to sill, the fuel pipe, battery cable, wiring 
harness, and brake pipe running through those clamps.  It goes up around the 
side of the battery box to fed the pump and tank before going into the boot.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> When I took my 1967 MGB GT apart I failed to photo or note the rear wiring 
> harness route.  I assume it run along the underside of the car in the 
> brackets with the tail light portion running through a grommet into the 
> trunk area. 

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep 10 10:54:09 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 12:54:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA question
Message-ID: <20090910.125420.368.9.MGBOB@juno.com>

Listers,
    A friend with a 1500 MGA has lost track of the oil filter # for the
spin-on filter adapter he installed.
    Is there just one adapter ( I hope ) and one filter for it?   
    What filters are MGA drivers using for their adapters?
Bob
  TD and MGB driver
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYca9NrO3dFavUq5M2kUdkdXzu0ODBjdJJW2UP8k9fl3ncAoWly/

From atweditor at aol.com  Thu Sep 10 11:12:21 2009
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 13:12:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
In-Reply-To: <76664a460909090637w528aad19mbb47fec49156b1bd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <76664a460909080455j7388bce6r84081332c7d3de36@mail.gmail.com><B2C01525E97C449C829DB8B9A268952B@uw471de61b465c><4AA71782.8070103@snet.net>
	<76664a460909090637w528aad19mbb47fec49156b1bd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC0050FE43C93D-37EC-2997B@webmail-d098.sysops.aol.com>

 When I bought my car it had tubes front and rear. While I like the effects of the rear tube shock installation, especially after Moss discovered that the original shocks supplied with the kits were too stiff and specified different shocks, the front shocks offered no noticeable improvement, and in the wet caused some braking problems because, I think, the modified brake line arrangement eliminated the ability to keep the water shield in place. Now that I've replaced the front tubes with the original design, and replaced the water guards, everything works as expected. Maybe not racing quality, but better than the standard tube kit.

Jay Donoghue
72 MGB-GT
66 Mustang


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 9:37 am
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades










I looked at the fast cars front subframe replacement.  Its about $4k
delivered and includes many upgrades all at once.  Probably more than
I'll notice and definitely more than I can afford right now.

Has anybody tried the telescopic shock upgrade?

I'm looking into maintainability and the only way I can see to
maintain the armstrongs would be to remove the front sub frame, remove
the armstrongs and re-valve/fill them.

Am I wrong?

On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 10:48 PM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net> wrote:
> Although it was on my MGA race car, I had a bad experience with V8
bushings.
>  They are pressed in to the arm but have no distinct shoulder to take up
the
> space between the A-arms and the ends of the pivot.  Too many hard right
> turns ultimately pushed the a-arm back to the washer and nut with the
excess
> rubber of the mount squeezed out to the front.  This raised hell with the
> geometry and bent the shock arms.  I replaced them with the red urethane
> bushings.  They have a distinct shoulder formed in to them so the same
thing
> can't happen.
>
> Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>>
>> Take at least V8 bushings in the swing arms, I assume currently there are
>> even better types available, which are lasting long and offer a very good
>> road behaviour.
>>
>> Depending of the purpose the GT will have, you might opt. for some camber
>> or caster alterations, when you are planning to rallying, racing etc.
>> For typical classic car usage the basic setup is fine.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> 71 BGT
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
>> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 1:55 PM
>> Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
>>
>>
>>> I'm doing a complete rebuild of a 1971 MGB GT and I have the front
>>> subframe out of the car for a go-over.  I have no parts in this to
>>> lose and all the stock parts need to be overhauled.
>>>
>>> Before I get into overhauling the stock parts, are there any
>>> recommended upgrades from the wisdom of this collective?
>>>
>>> The car will be a general purpose track rat and will see very little
>>> street use.   I do not mind a harsh ride (bring it!)
>>>
>>> - Steve
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From hardt at sonic.net  Thu Sep 10 12:15:05 2009
From: hardt at sonic.net (Ron Engelhardt)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 11:15:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA question
In-Reply-To: <20090910.125420.368.9.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20090910.125420.368.9.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <4AA94229.50203@sonic.net>

I don't know if there's more than one but I suspect so. I use the same 
filter that fits an early 70's BMW 2002 on mine, forget the number off 
hand. I usually get them at my local NAPA Auto parts. My adapter is 
circa mid '80s.

Ron
58 MGA

Bob Howard wrote:

> Listers,
>     A friend with a 1500 MGA has lost track of the oil filter # for the
> spin-on filter adapter he installed.
>     Is there just one adapter ( I hope ) and one filter for it?   
>     What filters are MGA drivers using for their adapters?
> Bob
>   TD and MGB driver

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Thu Sep 10 13:09:37 2009
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 15:09:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA question
In-Reply-To: <4AA94229.50203@sonic.net>
References: <20090910.125420.368.9.MGBOB@juno.com> <4AA94229.50203@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <2183BF5F94274015AFDA451445E8C3A8@RickPC>

Ron

You might want to read this
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100b.htm

Rick

 Webmaster for:
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG 
Registers
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/amgcr - American MGC Register
  http://www.flamemini.net - Florida mini Enthusiasts
  http://www.britishcarclub.net -  Nature Coast English Car Club and The 
Suncoast Classic MG Club
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Engelhardt" <hardt at sonic.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 14:15
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA question


>I don't know if there's more than one but I suspect so. I use the same 
>filter that fits an early 70's BMW 2002 on mine, forget the number off 
>hand. I usually get them at my local NAPA Auto parts. My adapter is circa 
>mid '80s.
>
> Ron
> 58 MGA
>
> Bob Howard wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>     A friend with a 1500 MGA has lost track of the oil filter # for the
>> spin-on filter adapter he installed.
>>     Is there just one adapter ( I hope ) and one filter for it?   What 
>> filters are MGA drivers using for their adapters?
>> Bob
>>   TD and MGB driver
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 22:41:45 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 21:41:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA question
In-Reply-To: <20090910.125420.368.9.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20090910.125420.368.9.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200909112141u66f2b54bo1d7bb927df7b9175@mail.gmail.com>

My MGA with a spin-on adapter uses a 1515 filter.

Simon

On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 9:54 AM, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>    A friend with a 1500 MGA has lost track of the oil filter # for the
> spin-on filter adapter he installed.
>    Is there just one adapter ( I hope ) and one filter for it?
>    What filters are MGA drivers using for their adapters?
> Bob
>  TD and MGB driver
> ____________________________________________________________
> Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYca9NrO3dFavUq5M2kUdkdXz
u0ODBjdJJW2UP8k9fl3ncAoWly/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sat Sep 12 08:40:56 2009
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 09:40:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Broken u-joint snap rings
Message-ID: <4AABB2F8.9070005@stclegal.com>

I am in the process of replacing the prop shaft U-joints on my 1961 MGA 
1600.  It appears that the DPO broke the ears off of all four snap 
rings.  I have tapped the bearing caps in a tad, and the rings freely 
rotate in the recess.  But I cannot get them to bend out to grab them.  
I have tried a screwdriver and dental picks.  Are there any helpful hints? 

It is the front joint and does not seem to have any free play, but it is 
a "sealed joint" (no zerk fitting) and the rear joint was nackered 
beyond belief (the vibration tipped me off).  I would like to replace it 
now while the shaft is out.  Is it better to leave it "as is" given the 
difficulty in removing the broken snap rings?  Thanks
-- 
Robert Guinness

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Sep 12 09:47:00 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 11:47:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Broken u-joint snap rings
Message-ID: <20090912.114701.508.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

   The trouble with these 'lubed for life' fittings is that one never
knows whose life they are lubed for. 
   I would say that the right thing to do is to continue the struggle
with the snap rings and get the U-joint out for replacement. You are
replacing the rear anyway, and with two new ones in place you can have
peace of mind for another 75,000 miles or so.
   If you can get the U-joints that have greasers, pay close attention to
the orientation of them when you install (it's easy to get them wrong on
some cars, and wrong orientation makes fitting of the grease gun quite
difficult). 
   Sorry....I don't envy your task. 
Bob


 
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 09:40:56 -0500 "Robert J. Guinness"
<guinness at stclegal.com> writes:
> I am in the process of replacing the prop shaft U-joints on my 1961 
> MGA 
> 1600.  It appears that the DPO broke the ears off of all four snap 
> rings.  I have tapped the bearing caps in a tad, and the rings 
> freely  rotate in the recess.  But I cannot get them to bend out to
grab 
> them.  
> I have tried a screwdriver and dental picks.  Are there any helpful 
> hints? 
> 
> It is the front joint and does not seem to have any free play, but 
> it is  a "sealed joint" (no zerk fitting) and the rear joint was
nackered 
> beyond belief (the vibration tipped me off).  I would like to 
> replace it  now while the shaft is out.  Is it better to leave it "as
is" given 
> the  difficulty in removing the broken snap rings?  Thanks
> -- 
> Robert Guinness
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYb9VI3dq6Ddud4MslA1CsF4fURQknR3R4Y2VUSxqfXTPcSs4O8/

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sat Sep 12 11:09:44 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 11:09:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Another restoration project begins
In-Reply-To: <20090912.114701.508.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20090912.114701.508.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06182AB3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I have returned to Montana with a new project car I picked up in Oregon
(NW USA), a 64 MGB. My son found and bought this car from a neighbor who
had it stored in their garage for the past 28 years. He likely paid too
much, I think about $4000 USD for a non-running car with minor rust
(close inspection shows one floor board has a small area of rust through
and there is some very small bubbling but no rust through in a couple of
the usual areas). Still a nice acquisition. A few pictures from the
trip:

http://www.karamursel.org/mg/rover.jpg
http://www.karamursel.org/mg/64b.jpg

(grill is missing because my son took it for his 66B but I found another
one at a swap meet in Portland; discoloration on the front is due to
being covered with a tarp for years, may buff out).

My son had already started some work on it. He removed the fuel tank for
cleaning since whatever gas was in it evaporated any leaving varnish.

A few questions -

Suggestions on cleaning the fuel tank? I would probably use toluene or
maybe acetone but the Moss catalog indicates a more intensive and
expensive route using a cleaner, etch, and then a coating.

Engine hasn't been turned since 1981. I think the method is putting a
small amount of Marvel mystery oil or something similar in each cylinder
to soak for a few days?

I have a lot of things to do before the car runs but I'll start with the
fuel system, turning the engine, and restoring brake/clutch system
rubber components. It should be a busy winter project.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 12 16:49:17 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 17:49:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Front Suspension upgrades
In-Reply-To: <d37.529fe467.37d90fba@aol.com>
References: <d37.529fe467.37d90fba@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AAC256D.9000107@justbrits.com>


From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 12 19:19:59 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 20:19:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Some interesting things !!
Message-ID: <4AAC48BF.40804@justbrits.com>

 From my "joke" eMail List (which ALL of you ARE

welcome to join)!!!!!

http://www.justbrits.com/Temps/candles.wmv

<<   I did not try this, but it is interesting
---------------------------------------------------
for you scientifically innovative people the next power up we will 
be making
do with,  and then we will get a fine for polluting the air   

Is this really true?>>

And from the MailMan Users List, a VERY oldie and GREAT
video !!!!

>From http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4qEzSz1JSc.

ENJOY !!!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sun Sep 13 07:06:57 2009
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 08:06:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA: Broken u-joint snaprings
Message-ID: <4AACEE71.7060008@stclegal.com>

I have discovered the secret of  removing broken snap rings on the MGA 
U-joint.  Practice the 3 P's:  Patience, Persistence, and Pilsner,  Also 
drive the bearing cap in a bit.  Make sure the snap ring is loose enough 
to rotate in its recessed chase.  Then place one screwdriver blade 
perpendicular to the face of the bearing cap to hold one broken edge 
immobile (not on the snap ring, but on the bearing cap surface and 
against the yoke so it blocks the snap ring edge from moving).  Then use 
another screwdriver against the other broken edge and using the first 
perpendicular screwdriver as a fulcrum, use the second screwdriver's 
blade to push the the opposite edge of the broken snap ring until you 
feel it flex a bit.  Then put aside the big screwdrivers and using a 
small bladed electronics's type screw driver, working at a 45 degree 
angle at the top of one broken end, try to catch the outside edge (in 
the recessed chase) and work the edge out down and out towards the 
center of the joint.  Curse the manufacturer of the original snap rings, 
swig your favorite ale, and repeat.  The flexing seemed to make the 
edges more "workable"  After discovering this technique, it took about 
five minutes per snap ring. I realize that John Twist can do the whole 
u-joint replacement in that time, but for me this was a victory.  Thanks 
for everyone's help.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 13 10:37:37 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 11:37:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] TMGR GOF
Message-ID: <61C524BD515E42C69A05A81310DC110C@ranteer.local>

sorry for the bandwidth - this is really for more local (Texas) MG'ers.

i'm trying to find the restaurant/mini brewery outside of austin that we went
to for the spring GOF a few years ago.  anyone know it?  or who led us there?
was it Don from Tyler?

thanks!

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 13 15:06:57 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 15:06:57 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Whining time, Team.Net updates
Message-ID: <20090913210657.5DBE12E05F@bradakis.com>

Yes, I know that as the fellow behind the curtain who
keeps Team.Net on the air, I do my share of whining.
But the whining here is coming from one of the disks
on the server, a bearing ready to fail in a few days,
a couple of weeks, maybe not until 2010.  Who knows?

Rather than risk a sudden failure, it would be prudent
to consider getting new hardware.  And that is where you
come in.  I didn't have an official fund drive this year,
though donations have come in at random times during the
year.

It seems to be time for those of you who have not
recently contributed to step up and assist in keeping
Team.Net on the air.  If you have a few dollars to spare
and desire to support this endeavor, check out the web
page http://www.team.net/donate.html  I, and thousands
of folks around the planet would appreciate it.  Gee, I
haven't taken an actual count of all subscribers lately,
I ought to do a headcount.

On a related note, I have been doing a few things, like
moving a few more lists from majordomo to mailman.  Back
when I started doing this about 20 years ago majordomo
was the hot ticket.  It is a bit outdated now, mailman is
much more web friendly, hopefully much easier for you
folks to use.  Of course, there are those who still try
to use majordomo to manage their mailman subscriptions,
not much I can do about that!

One thing I did was change the judson list, which was
intended for discussion of classic Judson superchargers
to superchargers at autox.team.net, opening it up for folks
to discuss other brands.  Feel free to go to the mailman
page, http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo to sign up if
you so desire.

Actually I had hoped more folks would sign up for the-local
list, a place for random discussion about all sorts of stuff.
Tell a joke, review a movie, report the antics of your favorite
public idiot, lament the last loss of your team, whatever.

If there is a list you'd like to see, chances are I'd set one
up, no problem.

But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive,
and assist as you can: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Thanks!

mjb.

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sun Sep 13 18:16:55 2009
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 19:16:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] TMGR GOF
In-Reply-To: <61C524BD515E42C69A05A81310DC110C@ranteer.local>
References: <61C524BD515E42C69A05A81310DC110C@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <000501ca34d0$ab99dd70$02cd9850$@net>

A long time ago we went in a caravan to the Celis Brewery but it has closed
down as far as I know.  Miller bought it out and now owns the Celis name.
They let us drink every type they had for free.  It was funny to see the
swerving caravan going back to Salado.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 11:38 AM
To: MG LIST
Subject: [Mgs] TMGR GOF

sorry for the bandwidth - this is really for more local (Texas) MG'ers.

i'm trying to find the restaurant/mini brewery outside of austin that we
went
to for the spring GOF a few years ago.  anyone know it?  or who led us
there?
was it Don from Tyler?

thanks!

From strovato at optonline.net  Sun Sep 13 19:58:19 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 21:58:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Update of MGA Lubrication Chart
In-Reply-To: <20090902171647.C2B1C18788B@autox.team.net>
References: <4A9D884E.9080505@stclegal.com>
	<20090902171647.C2B1C18788B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0KPX006UTUUYYVG0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Isn't there brass in the steering rack?  Why doesn't the same concern 
about EP oil apply to the rack?

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 01:14 PM 9/2/2009, Barney Gaylord wrote:
>Rear axle (hypoid) and steering gear: EP90 or EP80.
>The key here is the "EP" spec, meaning Extreme Pressure".  This is 
>to protect the high pressure point contact interface in the ring and 
>pinion hypoid gears.  This is usually accomplished with Sulfur 
>additives, which can give the oil that rotten egg smell.  Do not put 
>EP oil in the gearbox, as it tends to ear brass synchro 
>rings.  These days we have nice multi-weight EP oil in the form of 
>EP85-90, EP80W90, EP75W90.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 14 06:51:15 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 05:51:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Another restoration project begins
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06182AB3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <20090912.114701.508.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06182AB3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <493860.11811.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Looks like a nice solid car, David, good luck with it! I would go ahead and do the MMO-in-the-cylinders trick.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: mgs mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 1:09:44 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Another restoration project begins

I have returned to Montana with a new project car I picked up in Oregon
(NW USA), a 64 MGB. My son found and bought this car from a neighbor who
had it stored in their garage for the past 28 years. He likely paid too
much, I think about $4000 USD for a non-running car with minor rust
(close inspection shows one floor board has a small area of rust through
and there is some very small bubbling but no rust through in a couple of
the usual areas). Still a nice acquisition. A few pictures from the
trip:

http://www.karamursel.org/mg/rover.jpg
http://www.karamursel.org/mg/64b.jpg

(grill is missing because my son took it for his 66B but I found another
one at a swap meet in Portland; discoloration on the front is due to
being covered with a tarp for years, may buff out).

My son had already started some work on it. He removed the fuel tank for
cleaning since whatever gas was in it evaporated any leaving varnish.

A few questions -

Suggestions on cleaning the fuel tank? I would probably use toluene or
maybe acetone but the Moss catalog indicates a more intensive and
expensive route using a cleaner, etch, and then a coating.

Engine hasn't been turned since 1981. I think the method is putting a
small amount of Marvel mystery oil or something similar in each cylinder
to soak for a few days?

I have a lot of things to do before the car runs but I'll start with the
fuel system, turning the engine, and restoring brake/clutch system
rubber components. It should be a busy winter project.

From awhitema at panix.com  Mon Sep 14 18:57:12 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 17:57:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
Message-ID: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>

List gurus,

I can't seem to keep the bonnet locked down.  If I hit a bump, pop and  
I'm relying on the second latch to keep it in place.  Fortunately, it  
hasn't happened at speed yet, but this bothers me.

Words of advice are needed!

'75 B

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Sep 14 19:26:45 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:56:45 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
In-Reply-To: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
References: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
Message-ID: <4AAEED55.9080908@erickson.on.net>

Aaron Whiteman wrote:
> List gurus,
>
> I can't seem to keep the bonnet locked down.  If I hit a bump, pop and 
> I'm relying on the second latch to keep it in place.  Fortunately, it 
> hasn't happened at speed yet, but this bothers me.
>

Yes, mine has been doing the same for years.  I even added a new, 
stiffer plate for where the catch mounts to the bonnet because I thought 
that was flexing and causing the issue.  I have moved the bonnet back 
and forward and side to side.  Adjusted the catch up and down.  Just 
about everything you can imagine.  It gets better for a while (for 
months) and then I hit a bump and it goes (luckily for my track work we 
are required to have an additional safety "strap" to catch the bonnet if 
it happened to fall off the secondary catch, so I am not worried about 
it going over my head).

So please - throw you advice to Aaron because I want to catch some of it!

I am right on the verge of putting pins through my lovely aluminium 
bonnet because it has "popped" one too many times when I have been on 
the track - and even though *I* know it ain't going anywhere, track 
marshals get nervous and I have been black flagged more than once for 
this, grrrrr.

Thanks for asking that, Aaron!




Eric

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 14 20:29:43 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 19:29:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
In-Reply-To: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
Message-ID: <C6D44A27.2384A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I'm not sure how it adjusts off the top of my head. I believe possibly the
"socket" screws can be loosened and the position adjusted. But I think it's
more likely that the cable and/or mechanism need lubrication -- the spring
tension is not sufficient to return it to "closed" due to friction.

Another factor is excess side-to-side bonnet movement -- if you don't have
the rubber snubbers on the wings, you should get some. The bonnet hinges
have almost no integrity in the lateral direction.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 9/14/09 5:57 PM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote:

> List gurus,
> 
> I can't seem to keep the bonnet locked down.  If I hit a bump, pop and
> I'm relying on the second latch to keep it in place.  Fortunately, it
> hasn't happened at speed yet, but this bothers me.
> 
> Words of advice are needed!
> 
> '75 B

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 21:09:44 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 22:09:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
In-Reply-To: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
References: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
Message-ID: <2D9934A4-7B3D-4709-AF0F-6A252C8B1E64@gmail.com>

I had this, and it was the pin that was loose. Also, clean up the  
latch mechanism and make sure it's greased and moving freely.

On Sep 14, 2009, at 7:57 PM, Aaron Whiteman wrote:

> List gurus,
>
> I can't seem to keep the bonnet locked down.  If I hit a bump, pop  
> and I'm relying on the second latch to keep it in place.   
> Fortunately, it hasn't happened at speed yet, but this bothers me.
>
> Words of advice are needed!
>
> '75 B
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Sep 14 21:55:48 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 21:55:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
In-Reply-To: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
References: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0638686A@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I finally got mine working but I hope writing this email doesn't make it
come back. I think there were three things that did it and I haven't had
the problem for several years.

First, like Max said, make sure you have the rubber parts on the wings
to hold the bonnet in place and minimize side-to-side and other
vibrational movement. Next, I had to make sure the hood lock pin
assembly was centered with the guide plate. And finally and most
important was the right amount of spring tension. It needs to be tight
enough to hold the bonnet firmly but not too tight to prevent closing
the bonnet. When you pull the hood release cable, there will be some
tension and the bonnet should crisply pop up. I've noticed too that on
both my 72B and 67BGT, that closing the bonnet takes a bit of force and
sometimes may take two tries (if it is too easy to close, there is
probably not enough tension to keep it from popping open).

And when I do close the bonnet, I make it a habit to pull up on the
bonnet to insure that it truly has firmly latched shut.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:57 PM
To: MG Mailing List
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments

List gurus,

I can't seem to keep the bonnet locked down.  If I hit a bump, pop and
I'm relying on the second latch to keep it in place.  Fortunately, it
hasn't happened at speed yet, but this bothers me.

Words of advice are needed!

'75 B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 15 02:12:23 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 09:12:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
References: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
Message-ID: <140512E3315048BEADC89004866BC089@paul>

This can be caused by wear on the pin, or the cable not letting the latch 
come fully back.  For the pin try turning it just 1/4 turn which brings a 
new 'face' into play.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I can't seem to keep the bonnet locked down.  If I hit a bump, pop and 
> I'm relying on the second latch to keep it in place. 

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 15 07:37:24 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 09:37:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
In-Reply-To: <4AAEED55.9080908@erickson.on.net>
References: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
	<4AAEED55.9080908@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <E1MnYLO-0000hS-0E@delta.look.ca>

I had the same problem but I solved it by unscrewing and screwing in 
the plunger thing on the bonnet.  It can be adjusted using a flat 
head screw driver and then adjusting the nut.  It took a while but 
since have never had any trouble.


At 09:26 PM 9/14/2009, Eric Erickson wrote:
>Aaron Whiteman wrote:
>>List gurus,
>>
>>I can't seem to keep the bonnet locked down.  If I hit a bump, pop 
>>and I'm relying on the second latch to keep it in 
>>place.  Fortunately, it hasn't happened at speed yet, but this bothers me.
>
>Yes, mine has been doing the same for years.  I even added a new, 
>stiffer plate for where the catch mounts to the bonnet because I 
>thought that was flexing and causing the issue.  I have moved the 
>bonnet back and forward and side to side.  Adjusted the catch up and 
>down.  Just about everything you can imagine.  It gets better for a 
>while (for months) and then I hit a bump and it goes (luckily for my 
>track work we are required to have an additional safety "strap" to 
>catch the bonnet if it happened to fall off the secondary catch, so 
>I am not worried about it going over my head).
>
>So please - throw you advice to Aaron because I want to catch some of it!
>
>I am right on the verge of putting pins through my lovely aluminium 
>bonnet because it has "popped" one too many times when I have been 
>on the track - and even though *I* know it ain't going anywhere, 
>track marshals get nervous and I have been black flagged more than 
>once for this, grrrrr.
>
>Thanks for asking that, Aaron!
>
>
>
>
>Eric
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From sales at justbrits.com  Tue Sep 15 12:26:13 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 13:26:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
In-Reply-To: <E1MnYLO-0000hS-0E@delta.look.ca>
References: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
	<4AAEED55.9080908@erickson.on.net> <E1MnYLO-0000hS-0E@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4AAFDC45.8030807@justbrits.com>

<< I had the same problem but I solved it by unscrewing and
screwing in the plunger thing on the bonnet.  It can be adjusted
using a flat head screw driver and then adjusting the nut.  >>

I might add Barrie, the pin IS available NEW and
quite IS expensive ( $9.00 List ).

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 15 18:22:51 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:22:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor Blind Rivet Tool
Message-ID: <A825956C39A94644878D96CB263C955B@Edscomputer>

List,

I'm attempting to attach the rubber sun visor retainer to the windscreen
frame. The nose of my pop rivet (blind rivet) tool will not go deep enough
into the rubber piece to allow the fastener to be pulled into place. It's just
too wide.

What's the secret? Is there another tool available that will do the job?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From mgmagnette at aim.com  Tue Sep 15 18:47:31 2009
From: mgmagnette at aim.com (mgmagnette)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:47:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor Blind Rivet Tool
In-Reply-To: <A825956C39A94644878D96CB263C955B@Edscomputer>
References: <A825956C39A94644878D96CB263C955B@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <1f0be670.5793.4ae3.85f9.6b98328b7358@aim.com>

The other tool is epoxy.  Cut off a rivet head and glue that on too.  Not worth cracking a windshield.



In a message dated 09/15/09 20:46:14 Eastern Daylight Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes:
List, 

I'm attempting to attach the rubber sun visor retainer to the windscreen 
frame. The nose of my pop rivet (blind rivet) tool will not go deep enough 
into the rubber piece to allow the fastener to be pulled into place. It's just 
too wide. 

What's the secret? Is there another tool available that will do the job? 

Thanks, 

Ed Woods 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Sep 15 19:53:18 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:53:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor Blind Rivet Tool
In-Reply-To: <A825956C39A94644878D96CB263C955B@Edscomputer>
References: <A825956C39A94644878D96CB263C955B@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <B86651B0-EFC1-4F7D-B399-EE19C5AD582C@gmail.com>

If it still has enough to grip, you could put little washers on the  
shaft to the level of the rubber.

On Sep 15, 2009, at 7:22 PM, Ed Woods wrote:

> List,
>
> I'm attempting to attach the rubber sun visor retainer to the  
> windscreen
> frame. The nose of my pop rivet (blind rivet) tool will not go deep  
> enough
> into the rubber piece to allow the fastener to be pulled into place.  
> It's just
> too wide.
>
> What's the secret? Is there another tool available that will do the  
> job?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Woods
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Sep 16 08:03:00 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 10:03:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor Blind Rivet Tool
Message-ID: <20090916.101854.3676.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Ed,
   Paul's suggestion of piling up washers will work. 
  There are some extended-nose rivet tools available. Harbor Freight had
one in a recent promotion.
Bob
 
On Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:22:51 -0400 "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
writes:
> List,
> 
> I'm attempting to attach the rubber sun visor retainer to the 
> windscreen
> frame. The nose of my pop rivet (blind rivet) tool will not go deep 
> enough
> into the rubber piece to allow the fastener to be pulled into place. 
> It's just
> too wide.
> 
> What's the secret? Is there another tool available that will do the 
> job?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ed Woods
> 
____________________________________________________________
Online Doctorate Degrees
Find leading online Phd programs. Study anywhere anytime.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=b6yOrpmApjd0whGXkPOMMQAAJ1CFcZuYg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAQAAAAFAAAAADZeJT8AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABpRzAAAAAA==

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Wed Sep 16 09:25:23 2009
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 15:25:23 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Sun Visor Blind Rivet Tool
Message-ID: <20090916.112523.25912.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>

Ed:   I went to the hardware with a rivet and found a couple of small collet
spacers (1/4" & 1/8") that fitted on the rivet shaft.  Usually you can add
about  a 3/8" spacer on top of the rivet and still get a grip on the shaft
with the rivet tool.  You can also use the little washers stacked up to your
needed depth.  When you're finished, string the collets on a piece of wire and
keep them in your rivet jar -- they're easy to lose.
Phil Bacon, 67 MGBGT

List,

......The nose of my pop rivet (blind rivet) tool will not go deep enough
into the rubber piece to allow the fastener to be pulled into place. It's
just
too wide.

Ed Woods

_______________________________________________


____________________________________________________________
Just drop it. Click here for free information on weight loss surgery!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsEThG8wj7rUl1BrhDmQBWWwfPqd
aldYM0Up1Cm64kI3KzNCTT19cc/

From craigw at sonic.net  Wed Sep 16 10:48:10 2009
From: craigw at sonic.net (craigw at sonic.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 09:48:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Early '74 MGB...
Message-ID: <9299.1253119690@sonic.net>

 Hi folks. I've had an early '74 MGB since 1988. I've been trickle
rebuilding it up until the last couple of years. I don't have the desire to
work on the car anymore, and haven't been driving it much lately. I don't
have a covered area to keep the B in anymore, but do have it covered, and
have decided to sell it. I thought this would be a good place to start.
 It's equipped with a fairly new HIF-4 carb system, Peco exhaust & header,
very low mileage engine rebuilt by Glenn Towery, electric overdrive, chrome
bumpers and overriders, rollbar, stow-away top (as a fold-up top does not
fit with the rollbar in place), Panasport mini-lite wheels, lowered-rebuilt
suspension with poly bushings, rear leaf springs for a GT. The car is a
driver, not a show piece. By the way, I installed a battery-tender in the
extra battery well (I have a Group 25 12V battery instead of 2x6V) and have
the car 'plugged-in' to keep it constantly charged.

 I also have a hard top, 2 Weber carbs, extra HIF-4's, extra '72 MGBGT
parts car, extra engine (needs rings) and extra 4-speed transmission for
the B as well.

 Would like it to go to a good home, as it's been a fun part of my life
for the last 20 years. I'm asking $3500 if anyone's interested.
 Located in Santa Rosa, CA. I have pix if anyone's interested. Thanks.

 Best regards,
 Craig Wiper

From hardt at sonic.net  Wed Sep 16 12:31:24 2009
From: hardt at sonic.net (Ron Engelhardt)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 11:31:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Early '74 MGB...
In-Reply-To: <9299.1253119690@sonic.net>
References: <9299.1253119690@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4AB12EFC.6000704@sonic.net>

Craig, you might want to list this on the Nobbc list and/or website for 
a local sale.

Ron
58 MGA

craigw at sonic.net wrote:
>  Hi folks. I've had an early '74 MGB since 1988. I've been trickle
> rebuilding it up until the last couple of years. I don't have the desire to
> work on the car anymore, and haven't been driving it much lately. I don't
> have a covered area to keep the B in anymore, but do have it covered, and
> have decided to sell it. I thought this would be a good place to start.
>  It's equipped with a fairly new HIF-4 carb system, Peco exhaust & header,
> very low mileage engine rebuilt by Glenn Towery, electric overdrive, chrome
> bumpers and overriders, rollbar, stow-away top (as a fold-up top does not
> fit with the rollbar in place), Panasport mini-lite wheels, lowered-rebuilt
> suspension with poly bushings, rear leaf springs for a GT. The car is a
> driver, not a show piece. By the way, I installed a battery-tender in the
> extra battery well (I have a Group 25 12V battery instead of 2x6V) and have
> the car 'plugged-in' to keep it constantly charged.
> 
>  I also have a hard top, 2 Weber carbs, extra HIF-4's, extra '72 MGBGT
> parts car, extra engine (needs rings) and extra 4-speed transmission for
> the B as well.
> 
>  Would like it to go to a good home, as it's been a fun part of my life
> for the last 20 years. I'm asking $3500 if anyone's interested.
>  Located in Santa Rosa, CA. I have pix if anyone's interested. Thanks.
> 
>  Best regards,
>  Craig Wiper

From rshellen at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 06:21:41 2009
From: rshellen at comcast.net (E. Ronald Shellenberger)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 08:21:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Broken U-Joint
Message-ID: <EF2F1FA2C39542C492D1D0E0233287E0@ronws>

In rebuilding the front lower A-arms for my 944, the suggestion with kit is to
drill a small hole between the ridge of the lip that holds the ring in place
and the ring itself. you should be able to get a pick behind the ring to
remove it.

Ron Shellenberger

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Thu Sep 17 13:22:27 2009
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 14:22:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage races at Road America
Message-ID: <1410AB12-83B9-4BF2-81CC-6CB4D89A0E1A@duvallvideo.com>

I went to the vintage auto races at Road America last weekend.  It was  
great!  If your interested in a few photos.....

Enjoy and if someone finds their own own car let me know and I'll send  
you the files, Mike

http://www.flickr.com/welcome/39563194/bfb0a534e2/

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Fri Sep 18 21:11:39 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 23:11:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage races at Road America
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1253296802.5200.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1253296802.5200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <286E7AD536694AE0836CAB87D687F53B@EricJRussellPC>

Is it possible to see the photos without 'signing in'?

<quote>
To accept the invitation and see i_flickr's photostream, you'll need to sign 
in via Yahoo! so we can connect you with i_flickr.

Once you've done that, all you have to do is choose a Flickr screen name, 
then we'll direct you to i_flickr's photostream, and let them know you're 
here.
</quote>

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
> I went to the vintage auto races at Road America last weekend.  It was
> great!  If your interested in a few photos.....
>
> http://www.flickr.com/welcome/39563194/bfb0a534e2/

From eugeneb at nni.com  Sat Sep 19 21:04:16 2009
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 23:04:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <286E7AD536694AE0836CAB87D687F53B@EricJRussellPC>
Message-ID: <web-234738830@admin.nni.com>

All,

   Can someone tell me how the distributor in an 80 B with
OD works with regard to timing ?  The reason that I ask is
that the other day when I was checking the timing with a
timing light, I noticed that the timing mark moves as a
function of engine speed.  The faster the engine speed, the
more advanced the spark. The slower the less advanced. The
vacuum advance was disconnected at the time.  This is
different from other engines that I have timed where the
timing mark is relatively constant with engine speed.   Is
the MG distributor normal, or is there something amiss ?

Also the MG has the OD advance switch.  Is there any way to
check it for proper operation ? 

Thanks in advance for the help.

Safety Fast,

   Gene 

80 B 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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http://www.nni.com/

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Sep 19 22:40:49 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:40:49 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <web-234738830@admin.nni.com>
References: <web-234738830@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <4AB5B251.3090701@bradakis.com>

>  I noticed that the timing mark moves as a
> function of engine speed.  The faster the engine speed, the
> more advanced the spark. The slower the less advanced. 

The distributor has a mechanical advance system built in.  Using weights
and springs it rotates the plate for the points to give more advance at
higher revs, less at lower.  This is independent of any vacuum assisted
motion, as you noticed.

mjb.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 20 11:57:10 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 10:57:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <4AB5B251.3090701@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <C6DBBB06.23A82%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yes, and I might note that this is why timing is set at a specified RPM.
Consult the service manual for details.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

PS: This should not have come as a surprise. AFAIK all distributors have a
mechanical advance system, although some do not have a vacuum advance
system.



on 9/19/09 9:40 PM, Mark J Bradakis at mark at bradakis.com wrote:

>>  I noticed that the timing mark moves as a
>> function of engine speed.  The faster the engine speed, the
>> more advanced the spark. The slower the less advanced.
> 
> The distributor has a mechanical advance system built in.  Using weights
> and springs it rotates the plate for the points to give more advance at
> higher revs, less at lower.  This is independent of any vacuum assisted
> motion, as you noticed.
> 
> mjb.

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Sun Sep 20 17:42:40 2009
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 19:42:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <web-234738830@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEIJCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Gene,

Unless I'm reading your post wrong, it sounds like things are working
properly. Is there any other info that you can provide?

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Eugene Balinski
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 11:04 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question


All,

   Can someone tell me how the distributor in an 80 B with
OD works with regard to timing ?  The reason that I ask is
that the other day when I was checking the timing with a
timing light, I noticed that the timing mark moves as a
function of engine speed.  The faster the engine speed, the
more advanced the spark. The slower the less advanced. The
vacuum advance was disconnected at the time.  This is
different from other engines that I have timed where the
timing mark is relatively constant with engine speed.   Is
the MG distributor normal, or is there something amiss ?

Also the MG has the OD advance switch.  Is there any way to
check it for proper operation ?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Safety Fast,

   Gene

80 B
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.107/2382 - Release Date: 09/19/09
06:03:00

From eugeneb at nni.com  Sun Sep 20 18:34:58 2009
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 20:34:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEIJCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <web-234854273@admin.nni.com>

Eric,

 From what I have gathered from the other replies that I
received, the distributor is working correctly.  Is has a
mechanical advance vs a vacuum advance.  I don't remember
timing a mechanical advance disributor before so what I was
noticing seemed weird, but was in fact, correct.  

Thanks for the offer of your help. Now I just have to
figure out how to test the OD vacuum advance switch.

Regards,

   Gene Balinski  
80 B


On Sun, 20 Sep 2009 19:42:40 -0400
 "Eric Markley" <ericemarkley at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Gene,
> 
> Unless I'm reading your post wrong, it sounds like things
> are working
> properly. Is there any other info that you can provide?
> 
> Eric
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Eugene Balinski
> Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 11:04 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
> 
> 
> All,
> 
>    Can someone tell me how the distributor in an 80 B
> with
> OD works with regard to timing ?  The reason that I ask
> is
> that the other day when I was checking the timing with a
> timing light, I noticed that the timing mark moves as a
> function of engine speed.  The faster the engine speed,
> the
> more advanced the spark. The slower the less advanced.
> The
> vacuum advance was disconnected at the time.  This is
> different from other engines that I have timed where the
> timing mark is relatively constant with engine speed.
>   Is
> the MG distributor normal, or is there something amiss ?
> 
> Also the MG has the OD advance switch.  Is there any way
> to
> check it for proper operation ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help.
> 
> Safety Fast,
> 
>    Gene
> 
> 80 B
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National
> provider.
> http://www.nni.com/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.107/2382 -
> Release Date: 09/19/09
> 06:03:00
> 

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From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Sun Sep 20 19:23:24 2009
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 21:23:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <web-234854273@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFMEIJCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Gene,

If the distributor is the original 45DE4 Lucas, it should have a vacuum
canister attached in front of the amplifier assembly. The Lucas part number
is 41693 for a Federal spec car and 41695 for a California spec car. There
is a device that restricts the operation of the vacuum advance to fourth
gear (o/d) only.

Your advance curve spec was:
10 degrees BTDC @ 1500 rpm
13 to 17 degrees @ 2000 rpm
28 to 32 degrees @ 3500 rpm
33 to 37 degrees @ 4500 rpm

The only thing I find in my workshop manuals on the Transmission Controlled
Spark Advance is a wiring diagram, nothing on how to test operation. I hope
that others can help.

Good Luck,

Eric



-----Original Message-----
From: Eugene Balinski [mailto:eugeneb at nni.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 8:35 PM
To: Eric Markley; Eugene Balinski; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question


Eric,

 From what I have gathered from the other replies that I
received, the distributor is working correctly.  Is has a
mechanical advance vs a vacuum advance.  I don't remember
timing a mechanical advance disributor before so what I was
noticing seemed weird, but was in fact, correct.

Thanks for the offer of your help. Now I just have to
figure out how to test the OD vacuum advance switch.

Regards,

   Gene Balinski
80 B


On Sun, 20 Sep 2009 19:42:40 -0400
 "Eric Markley" <ericemarkley at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Gene,
>
> Unless I'm reading your post wrong, it sounds like things
> are working
> properly. Is there any other info that you can provide?
>
> Eric
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Eugene Balinski
> Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 11:04 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
>
>
> All,
>
>    Can someone tell me how the distributor in an 80 B
> with
> OD works with regard to timing ?  The reason that I ask
> is
> that the other day when I was checking the timing with a
> timing light, I noticed that the timing mark moves as a
> function of engine speed.  The faster the engine speed,
> the
> more advanced the spark. The slower the less advanced.
> The
> vacuum advance was disconnected at the time.  This is
> different from other engines that I have timed where the
> timing mark is relatively constant with engine speed.
>   Is
> the MG distributor normal, or is there something amiss ?
>
> Also the MG has the OD advance switch.  Is there any way
> to
> check it for proper operation ?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Safety Fast,
>
>    Gene
>
> 80 B
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National
> provider.
> http://www.nni.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.107/2382 -
> Release Date: 09/19/09
> 06:03:00
>

---------------------------------------------------------------------
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http://www.nni.com/

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.109/2384 - Release Date: 09/20/09
06:22:00

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 19:26:42 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 20:26:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFMEIJCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFMEIJCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <397F848A-44C4-44D7-A1CC-75216920A702@gmail.com>

Just by-pass the TCSA, go straight from the manifold to the dizzy.

On Sep 20, 2009, at 8:23 PM, Eric Markley wrote:

> Gene,
>
> If the distributor is the original 45DE4 Lucas, it should have a  
> vacuum
> canister attached in front of the amplifier assembly. The Lucas part  
> number
> is 41693 for a Federal spec car and 41695 for a California spec car.  
> There
> is a device that restricts the operation of the vacuum advance to  
> fourth
> gear (o/d) only.
>
> Your advance curve spec was:
> 10 degrees BTDC @ 1500 rpm
> 13 to 17 degrees @ 2000 rpm
> 28 to 32 degrees @ 3500 rpm
> 33 to 37 degrees @ 4500 rpm
>
> The only thing I find in my workshop manuals on the Transmission  
> Controlled
> Spark Advance is a wiring diagram, nothing on how to test operation.  
> I hope
> that others can help.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eugene Balinski [mailto:eugeneb at nni.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 8:35 PM
> To: Eric Markley; Eugene Balinski; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
>
>
> Eric,
>
> From what I have gathered from the other replies that I
> received, the distributor is working correctly.  Is has a
> mechanical advance vs a vacuum advance.  I don't remember
> timing a mechanical advance disributor before so what I was
> noticing seemed weird, but was in fact, correct.
>
> Thanks for the offer of your help. Now I just have to
> figure out how to test the OD vacuum advance switch.
>
> Regards,
>
>   Gene Balinski
> 80 B
>
>
> On Sun, 20 Sep 2009 19:42:40 -0400
> "Eric Markley" <ericemarkley at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>> Gene,
>>
>> Unless I'm reading your post wrong, it sounds like things
>> are working
>> properly. Is there any other info that you can provide?
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On
>> Behalf Of Eugene Balinski
>> Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 11:04 PM
>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
>>
>>
>> All,
>>
>>   Can someone tell me how the distributor in an 80 B
>> with
>> OD works with regard to timing ?  The reason that I ask
>> is
>> that the other day when I was checking the timing with a
>> timing light, I noticed that the timing mark moves as a
>> function of engine speed.  The faster the engine speed,
>> the
>> more advanced the spark. The slower the less advanced.
>> The
>> vacuum advance was disconnected at the time.  This is
>> different from other engines that I have timed where the
>> timing mark is relatively constant with engine speed.
>>  Is
>> the MG distributor normal, or is there something amiss ?
>>
>> Also the MG has the OD advance switch.  Is there any way
>> to
>> check it for proper operation ?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the help.
>>
>> Safety Fast,
>>
>>   Gene
>>
>> 80 B
>>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National
>> provider.
>> http://www.nni.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.107/2382 -
>> Release Date: 09/19/09
>> 06:03:00
>>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
> http://www.nni.com/
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.109/2384 - Release Date:  
> 09/20/09
> 06:22:00
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steve at shoyer.com  Sun Sep 20 19:32:05 2009
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 21:32:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <web-234854273@admin.nni.com>
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEIJCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
	<web-234854273@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <ECB30B9372BF47049B8FBD33C4021BF4@shoyer.com>

Gene:

I think it's a 4th gear switch, not connected to the OD.  You could try
seeing if you can blow air through the switch with the car out of gear (you
should not be able to do it), then put the car into 4th gear and try again
(you should be able to do it).  Electrically, it should be similar to the
reverse light (just a different gear), but that won't test the operation of
the switch.

FWIW, mine has been gone for years, with the vacuum advance connected all
the time - I think it was added to help with emissions.

--Steve (1980 MGB)

-----Original Message-----
... Now I just have to figure out how to test the OD vacuum advance switch.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 22:04:32 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 21:04:32 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
In-Reply-To: <web-234854273@admin.nni.com>
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEIJCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
	<web-234854273@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200909202104h415a88fdid1b0192e666822c6@mail.gmail.com>

Gene,
You  comment that your distributor has "a  mechanical advance vs a
vacuum advance"

It's not an either/or thing -- most distributors have BOTH mechanical
advance and vacuum advance.

Simon

On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 5:34 PM, Eugene Balinski <eugeneb at nni.com> wrote:
> Eric,
>
>  From what I have gathered from the other replies that I
> received, the distributor is working correctly.  Is has a
> mechanical advance vs a vacuum advance.  I don't remember
> timing a mechanical advance disributor before so what I was
> noticing seemed weird, but was in fact, correct.
>
> Thanks for the offer of your help. Now I just have to
> figure out how to test the OD vacuum advance switch.
>
> Regards,
>
>   Gene Balinski
> 80 B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 21 02:18:07 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:18:07 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 80 B Timing question
References: <web-234738830@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <AC1D22ECB25D473298630CC0758D98AA@paul>

It would be extremely unusual indeed (or it is simply faulty i.e. seized) 
for a car engine distributor *not* to have mechanical advance i.e *not* 
change with revs.  Mechanical advance takes account of the fact that pinking 
is less likely at higher revs than lower (other factors remaining the same). 
If the timing *isn't* advanced as the revs increase then more and more of 
the mixture burn takes place with the piston lower and lower down its 
expansion stroke which results in more being converted to waste heat and 
less to forward motion.  OD or not is irrelevant.

It is vacuum advance that is optional to some extent, it primarily 
contributes to cruising economy.  It is not usually found on competition 
vehicles as cruising economy is irrelevant, it has additional components 
that can fail and cause problems, but again primarily it is much easier to 
tune a distributor to produce maximum power at full throttle through the rev 
range without the complication that timing variations vacuum advance 
introduces.  Some late model American spec MGBS *may* have had vacuum-less 
43D4, 43DE4 or 43DM4 distributors, but many had the usual 45D versions with 
the vacuum advance system but the advance plate was pinned to prevent 
movement if it was the only way to get it to meet the emissions 
requirements.

>From late 76 American spec MGBs had a switch on the gearbox that meant 
vacuum advance was only operative in fourth gear (Transmission Controlled 
Spark Advance), i.e. you would not see the effects of changing vacuum i.e. 
changing throttle opening when timing the engine (maybe it is this you are 
thinking of?), and in cars fitted with this you do *not* need to disconnect 
vacuum to set timing.  Originally this was an extra switch and overdrive 
(where provided) continued to be available in 3rd and 4th.  Whether this 
additional switch proved troublesome or in one of their periodical 
penny-pinching exercises subsequently the OD and TCSA functions were 
combined and both vacuum advance and OD (where provided) were available in 
4th only.  TCSA is said to have been necessary to control 'surging' in lower 
gears caused by the cumulative effects of all the other emissions equipment, 
but like pinned vacuum advance not all may have experienced it.  If you 
spend any time in traffic and lower gears you could try bypassing the TCSA 
solenoid in the engine compartment i.e. connect the vacuum capsule direct to 
the inlet manifold, and so benefit from improved mileage in lower gears. 
However that will only be of benefit if you *don't* have a pinned vacuum 
advance plate!

If you have OD and it works in 4th only then that is telling you the 'OD 
advance' switch is working correctly.  But there is the rest of the wiring 
and the TCSA solenoid to consider, and to check that i.e. the correct 
functioning of the overall system you need to turn the ignition on, put the 
gearbox into 4th, remove the distributor cap, and suck hard on the end of 
the tube removed from the inlet manifold.  This should cause the points 
plate to twist clockwise.  Ignition off, or not in 4th gear, and sucking on 
the tube should do nothing, and especially not pass any air.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 

>   Can someone tell me how the distributor in an 80 B with
> OD works with regard to timing ? 

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Sep 21 07:25:05 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:25:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Kendall Oil
Message-ID: <E1MpkCu-0003F1-KC@iota.look.ca>

I was at the Bronte Car Show, Ontario, yesterday where the count was 
probably over 1,500 British cars.   You name it - it was there!  I 
chatted to the Kendall Oil bloke at their both.  He said they had 50% 
more ZDDP (dialkyldithiophosphate - and you thought I couldn't 
spell!) than anyone else and  their GT-1 20W50 was specifically 
formulated for old cars - but would not be good to use with catalytic 
converters.

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 21 09:25:45 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 16:25:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <E1MpkCu-0003F1-KC@iota.look.ca>
Message-ID: <A9772D682E024212B8547A6B520E1A50@paul>

So what does that mean in terms of quantity?  There are any number of claims 
out there that A has more than B, but until someone starts specifying how 
much, and producing documentation to prove it, they are meaningless.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

>  I chatted to the Kendall Oil bloke at their both.  He said they had 50% 
> more ZDDP (dialkyldithiophosphate - and you thought I couldn't spell!) 
> than anyone else 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 10:14:36 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:14:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <A9772D682E024212B8547A6B520E1A50@paul>
Message-ID: <C6DCF47C.23ABC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Exactly. "50% more" than 10 ppm would be 15 ppm -- not exactly a noticeable
improvement. 

Maybe we need truth-in-labelling regulation for oil ...like it would ever
happen.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 9/21/09 8:25 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> So what does that mean in terms of quantity?  There are any number of claims
> out there that A has more than B, but until someone starts specifying how
> much, and producing documentation to prove it, they are meaningless.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> 
>>  I chatted to the Kendall Oil bloke at their both.  He said they had 50%
>> more ZDDP (dialkyldithiophosphate - and you thought I couldn't spell!)
>> than anyone else

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Sep 21 13:27:31 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 15:27:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <A9772D682E024212B8547A6B520E1A50@paul>
References: <E1MpkCu-0003F1-KC@iota.look.ca>
	<A9772D682E024212B8547A6B520E1A50@paul>
Message-ID: <E1MppP3-0006Bf-Ky@zeta.look.ca>

They told me to go to their web site and they did give me PPM figure 
but I cannot recall what it was.  I have their brochure but no mention of PPM

At 11:25 AM 9/21/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>So what does that mean in terms of quantity?  There are any number 
>of claims out there that A has more than B, but until someone starts 
>specifying how much, and producing documentation to prove it, they 
>are meaningless.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>  I chatted to the Kendall Oil bloke at their both.  He said they 
>> had 50% more ZDDP (dialkyldithiophosphate - and you thought I 
>> couldn't spell!) than anyone else
>

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From strovato at optonline.net  Mon Sep 21 14:56:28 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 16:56:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <E1MppP3-0006Bf-Ky@zeta.look.ca>
References: <E1MpkCu-0003F1-KC@iota.look.ca>
	<A9772D682E024212B8547A6B520E1A50@paul>
	<E1MppP3-0006Bf-Ky@zeta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <0KQC00HLUA6HTQ00@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I found this on their website:

http://www.conocophillipslubricants.com/documents/kendall/automotive_engine_oils/Ken%20GT-1%20High%20Performance%20MO%20TDS%20Web.pdf

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 14:59:43 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:59:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <E1MppP3-0006Bf-Ky@zeta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C6DD374F.23AE5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Well, they (Kendall) have spec sheets that show zinc and phosphorus content
as a percentage of weight, which is essentially useless (how much does a
quart of oil weigh? It's sold by volume...). Are they being deliberately
obscure?

I looked at the sheet for GT-1 High Performance Motor Oil. It said the 20w50
grade ONLY had "additional" ZDDP, but it didn't say how much, and the %
figures made no distinction between grades. At any rate, it can't be a
significant amount, since it stated the oil still meets new car warranty
requirements.

What we are looking for, essentially, is an oil that DOESN'T meet new car
warranty requirements (i.e. too much ZDDP for the catalytic converter to
handle). This is the problem -- who would market such a product? Specialized
outfits like Brad Penn, I suppose.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/21/09 12:27 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> They told me to go to their web site and they did give me PPM figure
> but I cannot recall what it was.  I have their brochure but no mention of PPM
> 
> At 11:25 AM 9/21/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>> So what does that mean in terms of quantity?  There are any number
>> of claims out there that A has more than B, but until someone starts
>> specifying how much, and producing documentation to prove it, they
>> are meaningless.
>> 
>> PaulH.
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>  I chatted to the Kendall Oil bloke at their both.  He said they
>>> had 50% more ZDDP (dialkyldithiophosphate - and you thought I
>>> couldn't spell!) than anyone else
>> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> (705) 721-9060 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 15:06:09 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 14:06:09 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil [correction]
In-Reply-To: <E1MppP3-0006Bf-Ky@zeta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C6DD38D1.23AE8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Actually, they do show the amounts separately for 10w40 and 20w50. Second
number is 20w50.

Phosphorus, wt % 0.077 0.108
Zinc, wt % 0.085 0.119

Too bad we aren't chemists. Let's see, we need the atomic weight for zinc
and phosphorus, the actual formula for the ZDDP molecule, and the weight of
a quart of Kendall GT-1 20w50...

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/21/09 12:27 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> They told me to go to their web site and they did give me PPM figure
> but I cannot recall what it was.  I have their brochure but no mention of PPM
> 
> At 11:25 AM 9/21/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>> So what does that mean in terms of quantity?  There are any number
>> of claims out there that A has more than B, but until someone starts
>> specifying how much, and producing documentation to prove it, they
>> are meaningless.
>> 
>> PaulH.
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>  I chatted to the Kendall Oil bloke at their both.  He said they
>>> had 50% more ZDDP (dialkyldithiophosphate - and you thought I
>>> couldn't spell!) than anyone else
>> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> (705) 721-9060 

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 15:39:30 2009
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 16:39:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <C6DD374F.23AE5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C6DD374F.23AE5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <FEB8157FE10047338345373A2AA4758F@HomePC>

Interesting enough is that Brad Penn IS the old Kendall.  The old company 
sold off the refinery to American Refining Group who now operate it as Brad 
Penn.  The old owners also sold the name "Kendall" to Conoco Phillips who 
label their own concoction as Kendall.  I guess it's buyer beware.  That is 
why I buy Brad Penn.

Unfortunately, NFI. ;-))

Larry Daniels

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 3:59 PM
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil

> Well, they (Kendall) have spec sheets that show zinc and phosphorus 
> content
> as a percentage of weight, which is essentially useless (how much does a
> quart of oil weigh? It's sold by volume...). Are they being deliberately
> obscure?
>
> I looked at the sheet for GT-1 High Performance Motor Oil. It said the 
> 20w50
> grade ONLY had "additional" ZDDP, but it didn't say how much, and the %
> figures made no distinction between grades. At any rate, it can't be a
> significant amount, since it stated the oil still meets new car warranty
> requirements.
>
> What we are looking for, essentially, is an oil that DOESN'T meet new car
> warranty requirements (i.e. too much ZDDP for the catalytic converter to
> handle). This is the problem -- who would market such a product? 
> Specialized
> outfits like Brad Penn, I suppose.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 9/21/09 12:27 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:
>
>> They told me to go to their web site and they did give me PPM figure
>> but I cannot recall what it was.  I have their brochure but no mention of 
>> PPM
>>
>> At 11:25 AM 9/21/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>>> So what does that mean in terms of quantity?  There are any number
>>> of claims out there that A has more than B, but until someone starts
>>> specifying how much, and producing documentation to prove it, they
>>> are meaningless.
>>>
>>> PaulH.
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>  I chatted to the Kendall Oil bloke at their both.  He said they
>>>> had 50% more ZDDP (dialkyldithiophosphate - and you thought I
>>>> couldn't spell!) than anyone else
>>>
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Barrie
>> (705) 721-9060
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Sep 21 18:12:32 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:12:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <C6DD374F.23AE5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <E1MppP3-0006Bf-Ky@zeta.look.ca>
	<C6DD374F.23AE5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06386E53@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

By weight is how oil and most other substances are analyzed (water being
an exception). PPM = mg/kg
To analyze, you have to start with a set quantity, usually done by
weighing out an amount. And it doesn't matter from a comparative
standpoint anyway so long as the same units are being used.

David Councill, former chemist
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 3:00 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil

Well, they (Kendall) have spec sheets that show zinc and phosphorus
content
as a percentage of weight, which is essentially useless (how much does a
quart of oil weigh? It's sold by volume...). Are they being deliberately
obscure?

I looked at the sheet for GT-1 High Performance Motor Oil. It said the
20w50
grade ONLY had "additional" ZDDP, but it didn't say how much, and the %
figures made no distinction between grades. At any rate, it can't be a
significant amount, since it stated the oil still meets new car warranty
requirements.

What we are looking for, essentially, is an oil that DOESN'T meet new
car
warranty requirements (i.e. too much ZDDP for the catalytic converter to
handle). This is the problem -- who would market such a product?
Specialized
outfits like Brad Penn, I suppose.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 18:35:57 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:35:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F06386E53@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That's nice, but since the only information we have to go by is the
recommendation that the oil contain 1500ppm of ZDDP, the data about weight
is not really useful.

If someone had told us "oh, you need 4.7mg of zinc per quart", maybe this
spec sheet would have been helpful. Or not, since who knows how much oil
weighs?

It's as if a county posted the speed limit in meters per second -- yes, it's
technically the same information, but not in a usable format (at least not
if your speedo is calibrated in mph). Hence my accusation of deliberate
obfuscation.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/21/09 5:12 PM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> By weight is how oil and most other substances are analyzed (water being
> an exception). PPM = mg/kg
> To analyze, you have to start with a set quantity, usually done by
> weighing out an amount. And it doesn't matter from a comparative
> standpoint anyway so long as the same units are being used.
> 
> David Councill, former chemist
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 3:00 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
> 
> Well, they (Kendall) have spec sheets that show zinc and phosphorus
> content
> as a percentage of weight, which is essentially useless (how much does a
> quart of oil weigh? It's sold by volume...). Are they being deliberately
> obscure?
> 
> I looked at the sheet for GT-1 High Performance Motor Oil. It said the
> 20w50
> grade ONLY had "additional" ZDDP, but it didn't say how much, and the %
> figures made no distinction between grades. At any rate, it can't be a
> significant amount, since it stated the oil still meets new car warranty
> requirements.
> 
> What we are looking for, essentially, is an oil that DOESN'T meet new
> car
> warranty requirements (i.e. too much ZDDP for the catalytic converter to
> handle). This is the problem -- who would market such a product?
> Specialized
> outfits like Brad Penn, I suppose.
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From nsippel at mindspring.com  Mon Sep 21 20:37:03 2009
From: nsippel at mindspring.com (Norm)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 22:37:03 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)
Message-ID: <008f01ca3b2d$91f881b0$6401a8c0@normoffice>

For starters, go to:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

I'll post more info tomorrow re Torco & Motul.

Norm Sippel

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 22 02:07:44 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:07:44 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>

The weight figures Barrie gave us in his correction were expressed as a 
percentage, which is the same basis as ppm, percentage is 'parts per 
hundred', you just shift the decimal point.  Ppm is usually used for very 
small proportions to avoid too many leading zeros, 1500ppm is 0.15%.  I 
don't think '4.7mg of zinc per quart' would be helpful as I have never seen 
it expressed that way by anyone in the industry, it is always percent or 
ppm.  One of the biggest problems I have is with Valvolene VR1 Racing which 
claims zinc at 0.14 and phosphorus at 0.13, so the highest of all found so 
far, and the closest to the 'recommended' levels, but it also claims to meet 
API SH/SJ/SL/SM and CD for 20W-50.  This begs the question "how can it 
conform to SM if it has the higher levels of zinc and phosphorus?".

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 1:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil


> That's nice, but since the only information we have to go by is the
> recommendation that the oil contain 1500ppm of ZDDP, the data about weight
> is not really useful.
>
> If someone had told us "oh, you need 4.7mg of zinc per quart", maybe this
> spec sheet would have been helpful. Or not, since who knows how much oil
> weighs?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 22 03:14:23 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:14:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs]  [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <E1MpkCu-0003F1-KC@iota.look.ca><A9772D682E024212B8547A6B520E1A50@paul><E1MppP3-0006Bf-Ky@zeta.look.ca>
	<0KQC00HLUA6HTQ00@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <2D7C17B9323E4FA7A0CD569870A424D6@paul>

Which gets us back to the question how much ZDDP is there if you have 0.108% 
phosphorus and 0.119 zinc!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

>I found this on their website:
>
> http://www.conocophillipslubricants.com/documents/kendall/automotive_engine_oils/Ken%20GT-1%20High%20Performance%20MO%20TDS%20Web.pdf

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 22 09:25:56 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:25:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
Message-ID: <E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>

Paul,

I am not at all versed in oils but one thought I had was - what does 
the API etc etc standard say.  The reason I ask is that quite a while 
back when restoring my A Healey I was told quite adamantly that the 
use of Kurnifer (copper alloy) tubing for brakes was  illegal.  But I 
knew Porche etc used it.  So I went to the Min of Transport and they 
gave me a copy of the regulations and discussed it with me.  What the 
regulations said was that it had to meet specific physical standards 
and there was no mention of what you used to get those standards.  So 
I could have used newspaper as long as it held the pressure etc 
etc.  So maybe the API standards don't care if your cat tin rots out 
quickly as long as it removes the nasties (so you have to replace 
often !)   Just an idle thought

By the way, the reason the crowd condemned Kurnifer etc was that 
people had been using plain jane copper tubing from Canadian Tire - 
the stuff for household use - and that was illegal  because it did 
not meet standards !


At 04:07 AM 9/22/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>The weight figures Barrie gave us in his correction were expressed 
>as a percentage, which is the same basis as ppm, percentage is 
>'parts per hundred', you just shift the decimal point.  Ppm is 
>usually used for very small proportions to avoid too many leading 
>zeros, 1500ppm is 0.15%.  I don't think '4.7mg of zinc per quart' 
>would be helpful as I have never seen it expressed that way by 
>anyone in the industry, it is always percent or ppm.  One of the 
>biggest problems I have is with Valvolene VR1 Racing which claims 
>zinc at 0.14 and phosphorus at 0.13, so the highest of all found so 
>far, and the closest to the 'recommended' levels, but it also claims 
>to meet API SH/SJ/SL/SM and CD for 20W-50.  This begs the question 
>"how can it conform to SM if it has the higher levels of zinc and phosphorus?".
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
>To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 1:35 AM
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
>
>
>>That's nice, but since the only information we have to go by is the
>>recommendation that the oil contain 1500ppm of ZDDP, the data about weight
>>is not really useful.
>>
>>If someone had told us "oh, you need 4.7mg of zinc per quart", maybe this
>>spec sheet would have been helpful. Or not, since who knows how much oil
>>weighs?
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.112/2388 - Release Date: 
>09/22/09 05:51:00

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 22 11:17:14 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:17:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)
In-Reply-To: <008f01ca3b2d$91f881b0$6401a8c0@normoffice>
References: <008f01ca3b2d$91f881b0$6401a8c0@normoffice>
Message-ID: <E1Mq911-00058l-GS@gamma.look.ca>

 From the table that Norm supplied - see below, it would seem Mobil 
1-V-twin is the way to go as it is 20W50 ????  What do the experts say??

Now isn't this getting a tad complicated................



At 10:37 PM 9/21/2009, Norm wrote:
>For starters, go to:
>http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
>
>I'll post more info tomorrow re Torco & Motul.
>
>Norm Sippel
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 22 12:19:09 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:19:09 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)
In-Reply-To: <E1Mq911-00058l-GS@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C6DE632D.23B55%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Just to throw another spanner into the works, there is an argument that
20w50 is heavier than optimal, and that higher effective oil flow is
achieved using lighter weight synthetic oils such as 5w20. Oil flow is what
protects bearings -- oil pressure is just a crude indication of oil flow,
that happened to be simpler to measure with an inexpensive sensor and gauge.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/22/09 10:17 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

>  From the table that Norm supplied - see below, it would seem Mobil
> 1-V-twin is the way to go as it is 20W50 ????  What do the experts say??
> 
> Now isn't this getting a tad complicated................
> 
> 
> 
> At 10:37 PM 9/21/2009, Norm wrote:
>> For starters, go to:
>> http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
>> 
>> I'll post more info tomorrow re Torco & Motul.
>> 
>> Norm Sippel
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>> 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> (705) 721-9060 

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Tue Sep 22 12:46:25 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (J. F. Juhas)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:46:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4AB91B81.4010703@snet.net>

FWIW, I recall reading, I think in one of Carrol Smith's books, that the 
prohibition on copper use in aero and automotive applications is that 
the soft copper moves with pressure and vibration, and thereafter work 
hardens and then cracks.  Although his book didn't explain this, the 
copper alloys that seem to be the stuff of some non-corroding brake 
lines appear to be designed to prevent this work hardening characteristic.

Not that any of this has to do with Kendall Oil....

Barrie Robinson wrote:
>
> By the way, the reason the crowd condemned Kurnifer etc was that 
> people had been using plain jane copper tubing from Canadian Tire - 
> the stuff for household use - and that was illegal  because it did 
> not meet standards !
>
>
>   
> Regards
>
> Barrie
> (705) 721-9060 
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From aekell at aol.com  Tue Sep 22 15:00:00 2009
From: aekell at aol.com (aekell at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:00:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)
In-Reply-To: <C6DE632D.23B55%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8CC09DEC88B37E3-764-9BBE@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>

Anyone know the?reasoning for using 20W50.? It may give a higher Oil Pressure reading, it may create more heat, it won't flow as well at any temperature, and it's pour point is inappropriate for anybody operating in cold weather.



Alan


-----Original Message-----
From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 22, 2009 2:19 pm
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)




>>>>>>>>> there is an argument that
20w50 is heavier than optimal, <<<<<<<<<<<<<

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 22 15:32:39 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:32:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <4AB91B81.4010703@snet.net>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca> <4AB91B81.4010703@snet.net>
Message-ID: <E1MqD4e-0004k2-MX@epsilon.look.ca>

JF,

I used Kunifer brake tubing because it is used by Mercedes, Porsche 
and military vehicles - I think it is 90% copper and 10% nickel.   I 
did see some tests a while back and they all said it was better than steel


At 02:46 PM 9/22/2009, J. F. Juhas wrote:
>FWIW, I recall reading, I think in one of Carrol Smith's books, that 
>the prohibition on copper use in aero and automotive applications is 
>that the soft copper moves with pressure and vibration, and 
>thereafter work hardens and then cracks.  Although his book didn't 
>explain this, the copper alloys that seem to be the stuff of some 
>non-corroding brake lines appear to be designed to prevent this work 
>hardening characteristic.
>
>Not that any of this has to do with Kendall Oil....
>
>Barrie Robinson wrote:
>>
>>By the way, the reason the crowd condemned Kurnifer etc was that 
>>people had been using plain jane copper tubing from Canadian Tire - 
>>the stuff for household use - and that was illegal  because it did 
>>not meet standards !
>>
>>
>>
>>Regards
>>
>>Barrie
>>(705) 721-9060
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>Mgs at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>>http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From strovato at optonline.net  Tue Sep 22 17:08:26 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 19:08:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)
In-Reply-To: <8CC09DEC88B37E3-764-9BBE@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>
References: <C6DE632D.23B55%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<8CC09DEC88B37E3-764-9BBE@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0KQE00E42AY96QR0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

The argument I have always heard is that old cars were built with 
larger tolerances, so to maintain oil pressure and get the oil to be 
everywhere it has to be, the 20W50 is better.  On a new modern car, 
where all the tolerances are much smaller, much thinner oils are 
appropriate.  I'm not really volunteering to defend this logic.  I'm 
just saying that it is what I've always been told.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 05:00 PM 9/22/2009, you wrote:
>Anyone know the?reasoning for using 20W50.? It may give a higher Oil 
>Pressure reading, it may create more heat, it won't flow as well at 
>any temperature, and it's pour point is inappropriate for anybody 
>operating in cold weather.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 22 17:40:54 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:40:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)
In-Reply-To: <8CC09DEC88B37E3-764-9BBE@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC09DEC88B37E3-764-9BBE@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <750419.97170.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It's what was recommended by the factory.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: "aekell at aol.com" <aekell at aol.com>
To: max_heim at sbcglobal.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 5:00:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)

Anyone know the?reasoning for using 20W50.? It may give a higher Oil Pressure reading, it may create more heat, it won't flow as well at any temperature, and it's pour point is inappropriate for anybody operating in cold weather.



Alan


-----Original Message-----
From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 22, 2009 2:19 pm
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)




>>>>>>>>> there is an argument that
20w50 is heavier than optimal, <<<<<<<<<<<<<
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Tue Sep 22 17:50:08 2009
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 19:50:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Oils and ZDDP
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFMEINCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Hello Listers,

According to my collection of repair manuals, The API oil standard in effect
in the early '70s was SE. As best I can determine from the research I have
done, oils rated API SG or SH have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus as
SE rated oils. Anything beyond SH rated will not have the ZDDP needed. I
conclude that an oil rated SG or SH should be OK. Of course, we all know
that the proper viscosity range to use depends on climate, season, and
likely ambient temperatures.

I admit that this approach might be too simple. Oil formulations have
changed over 35 years. Finding reliable data on ZDDP content of oils on the
market today is problematic; I looked through the web sites of all of the
common oil brands I could think of. And many of the oils mentioned in the
numerous threads on the subject are available but not readily obtainable via
retail sources.

My solution: Buy Castrol 4T motorcycle oil at $4.00 per liter. It is rated
SG, SH and I hope is is a good choice.

I will continue to monitor the discussion. One of you may find the perfect
oil for all of us to use. If so, we can enjoy our cars with greater peace of
mind.

Eric

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 18:00:34 2009
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 20:00:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Coupe door seal
Message-ID: <905C927E-7936-448E-A0EA-02C48027F512@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
This florida heat is a killer... Latest victim on my MGs turns out to  
be the passenger rubber door seals on my MGA coupe that split with the  
heat. This is beyond repair. How come this stuff doesn't last more  
than 35 years anyway?
So what's the recommendation from those that have gone before me to  
replace the red/rubber seals?
TIA
Dave Houser

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 18:07:19 2009
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 20:07:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB flooding
Message-ID: <2073698F-830F-42CB-8B31-DB3469786794@tampabay.rr.com>

Problem resolved, I believe. Thanks to Joe Curto who sent down new  
floats, float pins, needles and seats, my 67 MGB-GT is running without  
the  gasoline pouring out of the overflow tubes and the stumble that  
followed. I got rid of the Grose jets that I had in there and went  
with the viton tipped needles. I know I should have replaced one bit  
at a time to see just what exactly was causing the problem but  
frustration and the reliability factor made me just throw everything  
in at once.
Dave Houser

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Tue Sep 22 19:23:02 2009
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:23:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Coupe door seal
In-Reply-To: <905C927E-7936-448E-A0EA-02C48027F512@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <905C927E-7936-448E-A0EA-02C48027F512@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <DA3529F8F0E14BBA8DBDAA337AB51418@RickPC>

Dave

Todd Clarke has the best seals

Rick 
 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 20:00
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Coupe door seal


> Listers,
> This florida heat is a killer... Latest victim on my MGs turns out to  
> be the passenger rubber door seals on my MGA coupe that split with the  
> heat. This is beyond repair. How come this stuff doesn't last more  
> than 35 years anyway?
> So what's the recommendation from those that have gone before me to  
> replace the red/rubber seals?
> TIA
> Dave Houser

From awhitema at panix.com  Tue Sep 22 22:06:02 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:06:02 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] anybody have a broken speedometer?
Message-ID: <7A101A74-7749-4114-948E-354E96AE56EB@panix.com>

When I removed the dash in May 2008, I accidentally forgot to  
disconnect the plastic thing that you spin to reset the trip at the  
speedometer.  Half the snap-in fitting stayed with the reset-twisty- 
thing, half with the speedo body.

Now, many months later when the car's on the road again, I want to be  
able to reset the trip. Attempts to salvage the part with superglue  
and epoxy have failed.

Before I go out looking for perfectly good speedometers that I don't  
need, does anybody have a 72-75ish speedometer that has a working  
twisty thing but is otherwise broken?

From awhitema at panix.com  Tue Sep 22 22:07:18 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:07:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] bonnet release adjustments
In-Reply-To: <140512E3315048BEADC89004866BC089@paul>
References: <24496026-4E94-41D8-AB8B-9BE94C501DD2@panix.com>
	<140512E3315048BEADC89004866BC089@paul>
Message-ID: <4F296E91-A68A-4271-8412-150C08640769@panix.com>

On Sep 15, 2009, at 1:12 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> This can be caused by wear on the pin, or the cable not letting the  
> latch come fully back. For the pin try turning it just 1/4 turn  
> which brings a new 'face' into play.

I ended up taking a couple pieces of advice.  One was this, the other  
was to set the spring tension.  I ramped it way up, to the point where  
the latch would refuse to close.  I then released the spring, one full  
turn at a time.  As soon as it closed, I stopped.  Knock on wood,  
haven't had trouble since.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 23 01:57:39 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:57:39 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Re,: Kendall Oil (ZDDP)
References: <C6DE632D.23B55%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <43ACF071F1F24C83B62BA5EE9B7FE7DA@paul>

Not so, it is film resistance that protects bearings.  Whether an engine 
needs a high viscosity or a low viscosity depends on its specified bearing 
clearances, higher needing higher and vice-versa.  Higher flow might well be 
achieved using a low viscosity oil in a high clearance engine, but the film 
will break down easier, not to mention give lower oil pressure on a gauge. 
Worn high clearance engines give low oil pressures with the correct grade of 
oil, so when you see that and add a thickener and are satisfied when you see 
a higher pressure on the gauge, you are only kidding yourself and actually 
making things worse as you have reduced the flow and increased the 
likelihood of metal to metal contact in the bearings.  Conversely too high 
an oil pressure, either by uprating the pump which is another thing some V8 
owners do or using too thick a grade on a modern engine, causes bearing 
erosion.  An oil pressure gauge is largely something else for owners to fret 
about unnecessarily, only if you become aware of a gradual reduction in 
pressure over time can it be said to be marginally useful, for a sudden and 
total loss of pressure it isn't as useful as a warning light, which is why 
cars these days rarely have a gauge.

And heavier than optimal for what?  20W/50 has always been specified for our 
engines, along with 10W/50 and 10W/40 *for temperate climates*.  For cooler 
climates it must be 10W/30, 10W/40 or 10W/50, only for all temperatures 
below -10C/15F should it be as low as 5W/20 or 5W30.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> Just to throw another spanner into the works, there is an argument that
> 20w50 is heavier than optimal, and that higher effective oil flow is
> achieved using lighter weight synthetic oils such as 5w20. Oil flow is 
> what
> protects bearings -- oil pressure is just a crude indication of oil flow,

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 23 01:44:31 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:44:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>

I thought the whole point of having standards was that one didn't need to know
the detail of what they said, or the detail of what any oil (for example)
contained.  If a manufacturer says his engine needs API SM, not SJ as that has
too much zinc, and an oil manufacturer says his oil meets SM, then that is all
you need to know.  For another oil manufacturer to then say his oil meets SJ
*and* SM makes a mockery of the system.  I don't know about North America but
in the UK specifications and claims are legally binding, and have to be
provable, which is why those so-called lead replacement tin pellets can never
be advertised in the UK.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I am not at all versed in oils but one thought I had was - what does the API
etc etc standard say.

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Sep 23 05:55:06 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:55:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
	<F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>
Message-ID: <0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

API motor oil guide says "For automotive gasoline engines, the latest 
engine oil service
category includes the performance properties of each earlier 
category. If an automotive
owner's manual calls for an API SJ or SL oil, an API SM oil will 
provide full protection."
I found this 
here:  http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_ratings.pdf.  It was never
intended that older flat tappet engines would need a different 
oil.  It is just that classic
car owners and mechanics perceive a problem.  Saying that an oil 
meets SJ and SM
is just redundant, because SM is the later standard that 
its  intended to include all
properties of the earlier standard.  But to the average guy who 
doesn't know about
API standards, if he opens the owners manual and it says to use SJ, 
it makes him
comfortable buying the bottle that says it meets SJ and SM.  So it's 
not exactly
"a mockery of the system", just marketing.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 03:44 AM 9/23/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>I thought the whole point of having standards was that one didn't need to know
>the detail of what they said, or the detail of what any oil (for example)
>contained.  If a manufacturer says his engine needs API SM, not SJ as that has
>too much zinc, and an oil manufacturer says his oil meets SM, then that is all
>you need to know.  For another oil manufacturer to then say his oil meets SJ
>*and* SM makes a mockery of the system.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 23 07:08:55 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 14:08:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
	<F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>
	<0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>

That's just not correct, it's like saying if 0W/40 fully synthetic is right
for high-performance modern engines it must be good enough for ours, which is
definitely *not* correct.  There is more than enough evidence out there from
*owners* that modern, low ZDDP oils cause problems, see
http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm and http://lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z13.  The
fact that you can quote sources that say SM is fine, and I can quote others
which say it isn't, just goes to show how confusing the whole subject is.  It
is a fact that modern Diesel oils have a higher level of protection, and so
conform to the earlier petrol grades, precisely because Diesel engines need
more protection for the little ends than SM can give, similar to flat-tappet
engines.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  API motor oil guide says "For automotive gasoline engines, the latest engine
oil service
  category includes the performance properties of each earlier category. If an
automotive
  owner's manual calls for an API SJ or SL oil, an API SM oil will provide
full protection."

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Wed Sep 23 07:43:49 2009
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:43:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] anybody have a broken speedometer?
In-Reply-To: <7A101A74-7749-4114-948E-354E96AE56EB@panix.com>
References: <7A101A74-7749-4114-948E-354E96AE56EB@panix.com>
Message-ID: <20090923094349.s18ysocnfo8cgscc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

Aaron,
I think I have one...let me check when I go home tonight.
Bill Saidel
BMCSNJ




Quoting Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>:

> When I removed the dash in May 2008, I accidentally forgot to
> disconnect the plastic thing that you spin to reset the trip at the
> speedometer.  Half the snap-in fitting stayed with the
> reset-twisty-thing, half with the speedo body.
>
> Now, many months later when the car's on the road again, I want to be
> able to reset the trip. Attempts to salvage the part with superglue and
> epoxy have failed.
>
> Before I go out looking for perfectly good speedometers that I don't
> need, does anybody have a 72-75ish speedometer that has a working
> twisty thing but is otherwise broken?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive



William Saidel
Department of Biology
Laboratory for Neuromorphonomy &
Center for Computational & Integrative Biology
Rutgers University
Science Building, Room B-4
315 Penn Street
Camden, NJ  08102-1411

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Sep 23 08:03:43 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:03:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] anybody have a broken speedometer?
In-Reply-To: <20090923094349.s18ysocnfo8cgscc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu
  >
References: <7A101A74-7749-4114-948E-354E96AE56EB@panix.com>
	<20090923094349.s18ysocnfo8cgscc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <200909230703477.SM01560@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

How about just buying a new reset cable?

         Peter C
==
At 08:43 AM 9/23/2009, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:
>Aaron,
>I think I have one...let me check when I go home tonight.
>Bill Saidel
>BMCSNJ
>
>
>
>
>Quoting Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>:
>
>>When I removed the dash in May 2008, I accidentally forgot to
>>disconnect the plastic thing that you spin to reset the trip at the
>>speedometer.  Half the snap-in fitting stayed with the
>>reset-twisty-thing, half with the speedo body.
>>
>>Now, many months later when the car's on the road again, I want to be
>>able to reset the trip. Attempts to salvage the part with superglue and
>>epoxy have failed.
>>
>>Before I go out looking for perfectly good speedometers that I don't
>>need, does anybody have a 72-75ish speedometer that has a working
>>twisty thing but is otherwise broken?

From awhitema at panix.com  Wed Sep 23 08:14:19 2009
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:14:19 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] anybody have a broken speedometer?
In-Reply-To: <200909230703477.SM01560@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <7A101A74-7749-4114-948E-354E96AE56EB@panix.com>
	<20090923094349.s18ysocnfo8cgscc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
	<200909230703477.SM01560@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <4D91AC39-80D6-4240-84C8-8B9E94D9A93C@panix.com>

On Sep 23, 2009, at 7:03 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote:

> How about just buying a new reset cable?

I'd love to!

I even have the part number (BHA4772) but the googles, they fail me.   
MGOC, Moss, Moss UK, VB .... it's all NLA.  The one place I did find  
that claimed to have it (well, claimed to sell it and had a price) was  
in the UK.  Currency conversion, VISA charges, and shipping over the  
Atlantic make a cheap part not quite so cheap.

So I thought I'd check to see if a lister's junk ("parts that might  
come in handy some day") would meet my needs.  :)

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 08:26:38 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:26:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Water Pump Replacement
Message-ID: <684883.2055.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

So my new water pump is arriving today. Any BTDT's on this job? It's for the '76 w/'75 engine.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer w/'75 Engine
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase

From mjanacek at snet.net  Wed Sep 23 09:44:31 2009
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:44:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Water Pump Replacement
In-Reply-To: <684883.2055.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <684883.2055.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ABA425F.1090807@snet.net>

Should be a piece of cake Dan. Just use caution with the anti-freeze and 
animals. I did mine last year ('79B) with no problem. You do have the 
electric fans right? Having the radiator forward and no engine fan gave 
me plenty of room to work.
Mike

Dan DiBiase wrote:
> So my new water pump is arriving today. Any BTDT's on this job? It's for the '76 w/'75 engine.
>
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer w/'75 Engine
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> twitter: dandibiase
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From strovato at optonline.net  Wed Sep 23 09:49:34 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:49:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
	<F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>
	<0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
Message-ID: <0KQF00DL5LE7K090@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I am not saying that you should use 0W/40 or that a low ZDDP oil is 
OK for flat tappet engines.  All I am saying is that the API believes 
that the low ZDDP oil is OK for flat tappet engines, or at least they 
did when they came out with the latest standard.  Therefore, they 
consider or considered each classification to be backward 
compatible.  Thus a manufacturer claiming SJ and SM compatibility is 
just stating what the standard already says, which is that all SM oil 
meets the SJ standard.  It's like brake fluid, before the silicone 
stuff came into the picture.  The container would say "DOT 3/DOT 4" 
because all DOT 4 met the DOT 3 criteria.  BTW, diesel oil has a 
whole different set of API classifications, as shown in the link I 
provided.  What I am saying is not controversial.  I am just giving 
an explanation for a manufacturer making the claim of meeting 
multiple standards.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 09:08 AM 9/23/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>That's just not correct, it's like saying if 0W/40 fully synthetic 
>is right for high-performance modern engines it must be good enough 
>for ours, which is definitely *not* correct.  There is more than 
>enough evidence out there from *owners* that modern, low ZDDP oils 
>cause problems, see 
><http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm>http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm and 
><http://lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z13>http://lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z13. 
>The fact that you can quote sources that say SM is fine, and I can 
>quote others which say it isn't, just goes to show how confusing the 
>whole subject is.  It is a fact that modern Diesel oils have a 
>higher level of protection, and so conform to the earlier petrol 
>grades, precisely because Diesel engines need more protection for 
>the little ends than SM can give, similar to flat-tappet engines.
>
>PaulH.
>----- Original Message -----
>
>API motor oil guide says "For automotive gasoline engines, the 
>latest engine oil service
>category includes the performance properties of each earlier 
>category. If an automotive
>owner's manual calls for an API SJ or SL oil, an API SM oil will 
>provide full protection."

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 23 09:37:31 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 16:37:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Water Pump Replacement
References: <684883.2055.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E26ED55DD62A407597883D7BB614FC7A@paul>

Cast or alloy?  My alloy pump had to be 'engineered' to fit by filing one of 
the holes out on one side and the boss on another one cut down so I could 
use the original bolts, they are a mixture of short and long.  The gasket 
that came with it was correct, so compare the two and be half-way there.  A 
cast one I bought years ago when the relatively new alloy one started 
weeping during warm-up has the correct spacing and bosses, but it's still in 
the boot as the alloy one never got any worse!

Make sure the old and new pumps have the same nose length, there are both 
long and short nose versions which are interchangeable on some engines at 
least.  This affects both the pulley and the metal mechanical fan.  The 
pulley and pump *must* go together as a pair, there is almost an inch 
difference in the two.  You can get away with the fan, a short nose pump 
should have a spacer between the pulley and the fan, a long-nose doesn't. 
Without a spacer on a short nose pump you have to fit the fan the 'wrong' 
way round or it hits the engine.  See 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_coolingframe.htm and click on 'Mechanical 
Fans' for what I mean.  Plastic fans are probably different.

It is easier removing the radiator with the mechanical fan although possible 
without it, forward mounted radiator doesn't need to be removed of course. 
If you've not removed it before then you could have problems with the bolts 
shearing of course.  If you have the mechanical fan then I'd advise a new 
fitting kit or grommets and lock-tabs as a minimum unless they are 
relatively new.  Use a smear of non-setting gasket sealant such as Hermetite 
Red on both sides of the gasket, not that 'orrible silicone muck which 
squishes out everywhere.  Don't overtighten the belt, 1/4" of free play (not 
stretch) either side.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 


> So my new water pump is arriving today. Any BTDT's on this job? It's for 
> the '76 w/'75 engine.

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 23 10:22:44 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 12:22:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Question about Calif. defunct British Car delers
Message-ID: <18435245.1253722964748.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Question about Calif. defunct British Car dealers

This just in from Rod Bean - Can anyone on this list help???

Contact Rod directly, but please CC me.

Thanks,

Rick


---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Rod Bean <rodbean at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 4:11 AM
Subject: Question about Calif. defunct British Car delers
To: Rick Feibusch <rfeibusch1 at gmail.com>


Hi Rick,

I've been trying to remember the place where I purchased my first
Lotus Elan (of many since) in 1969.  It was a 1964 purchased used from
a large British car dealership in Anaheim.  The place might have been
a distributorship.  They handled all the BMC marques and was named
something like British Motors or British Car Distributors, British
Motor Corporation of Anaheim or something like that.  I seem to
remember that it was near a freeway offramp, though which freeway, I
can't recall.

A few years before, I actually had also bought a 1957 Hillman Commer
Cob (like a Husky but a panel truck instead of with side windows)
there (with a later OHV Hillman engine installed) from them.  It was
their parts delivery vehicle and they were upgrading to something
else.

What I'm looking for is the correct name and possibly, address of the
place.  This is just for my records as I am trying to trace my
automotive history, particularly, my long Lotus history.... all the
cars

Thanks for any help, Rick.

Rod Bean

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Sep 23 14:14:05 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:14:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] anybody have a broken speedometer?
In-Reply-To: <4D91AC39-80D6-4240-84C8-8B9E94D9A93C@panix.com>
References: <7A101A74-7749-4114-948E-354E96AE56EB@panix.com>
	<20090923094349.s18ysocnfo8cgscc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
	<200909230703477.SM01560@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
	<4D91AC39-80D6-4240-84C8-8B9E94D9A93C@panix.com>
Message-ID: <4ABA818D.40609@gmail.com>

Aaron Whiteman wrote:
>
> I'd love to!
>
> I even have the part number (BHA4772) but the googles, they fail me.  
> MGOC, Moss, Moss UK, VB .... it's all NLA.  The one place I did find 
> that claimed to have it (well, claimed to sell it and had a price) was 
> in the UK.  Currency conversion, VISA charges, and shipping over the 
> Atlantic make a cheap part not quite so cheap.
>
> So I thought I'd check to see if a lister's junk ("parts that might 
> come in handy some day") would meet my needs.  :) 
The fact that you're in the USA means you don't have to pay the VAT, so it evens out.

-The Roxter
--

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Wed Sep 23 18:16:06 2009
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:16:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
	<F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>
	<0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
Message-ID: <006601ca3cac$362cfd40$a286f7c0$@com>

Of course, all those flat tappet engines before the late '60s did just fine
with .08% or less ZDDP :-)
And one of the current oil tests for the standard is how well it performs in
a V6 flat tappet engine.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul Hunt
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:09 AM
To: Steven Trovato; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil

That's just not correct, it's like saying if 0W/40 fully synthetic is right
for high-performance modern engines it must be good enough for ours, which
is
definitely *not* correct.  There is more than enough evidence out there from
*owners* that modern, low ZDDP oils cause problems, see
http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm and http://lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z13.
The
fact that you can quote sources that say SM is fine, and I can quote others
which say it isn't, just goes to show how confusing the whole subject is.
It
is a fact that modern Diesel oils have a higher level of protection, and so
conform to the earlier petrol grades, precisely because Diesel engines need
more protection for the little ends than SM can give, similar to flat-tappet
engines.

From sales at justbrits.com  Wed Sep 23 20:20:58 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:20:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: [9issa] Free Bugeye ??]
Message-ID: <4ABAD78A.5040801@justbrits.com>

A "service" of 9issa for all you NY, NJ, PA folks !!!!

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[9issa] Free Bugeye ??
Date: 	Wed, 23 Sep 2009 17:35:17 -0700
From: 	Young Randall <RYoung at navcomtech.com>
To: 	9issa <9issa at justbrits.com>



http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/pts/1387712454.html

[None] made the following annotations
_______________________________________________
9issa mailing list
9issa at justbrits.com
http://justbrits.com/mailman/listinfo/9issa_justbrits.com
http://www.justbrits.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Sep 23 21:01:04 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:01:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Question about Calif. defunct British Car delers
In-Reply-To: <18435245.1253722964748.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <18435245.1253722964748.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10909232001x1680f20esae76e25ab948a252@mail.gmail.com>

I remember the dealership.  It was just east of the Santa Ana freeway (I5)
near Disneyland.  When I say just east, I mean just east.  The west side of
the property abutted the freeway.  Looking at Google maps it might have been
at Ball Road or south of the mouse house at Anaheim Blvd or Katella.  It was
a dark red building, probably masonary.  All of that part of I5 was widened
a bunch over the years (3 lanes to about 8) and that building no longer
exists.  I am guessing it was torn down in the 1980s to make way for the
freeway expansion.
IIRC it was called British Motor Car Distributing, or we just called it
BMCD.  Possibly its proper name was British Motor Car Distributing Anaheim
or possibly Orange County.
Hope this helps.
Rick

On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 9:22 AM, <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Question about Calif. defunct British Car dealers
>
> This just in from Rod Bean - Can anyone on this list help???
>
> Contact Rod directly, but please CC me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Rod Bean <rodbean at earthlink.net>
> Date: Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 4:11 AM
> Subject: Question about Calif. defunct British Car delers
> To: Rick Feibusch <rfeibusch1 at gmail.com>
>
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> I've been trying to remember the place where I purchased my first
> Lotus Elan (of many since) in 1969.  It was a 1964 purchased used from
> a large British car dealership in Anaheim.  The place might have been
> a distributorship.  They handled all the BMC marques and was named
> something like British Motors or British Car Distributors, British
> Motor Corporation of Anaheim or something like that.  I seem to
> remember that it was near a freeway offramp, though which freeway, I
> can't recall.
>
> A few years before, I actually had also bought a 1957 Hillman Commer
> Cob (like a Husky but a panel truck instead of with side windows)
> there (with a later OHV Hillman engine installed) from them.  It was
> their parts delivery vehicle and they were upgrading to something
> else.
>
> What I'm looking for is the correct name and possibly, address of the
> place.  This is just for my records as I am trying to trace my
> automotive history, particularly, my long Lotus history.... all the
> cars
>
> Thanks for any help, Rick.
>
> Rod Bean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep 24 02:12:10 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:12:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
	<F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>
	<0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
	<0KQF00DL5LE7K090@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <2DBBA2C1D0D8447CA0D27998D5508CBD@paul>

No one said you did, just that neither claim is necessarily correct.  I'd
rather go by the experiences of owners than by some organisation that I doubt
has done extensive testing on 60s technology engines, especially of foreign
manufacture.  Diesel oil *does* have different classifications, but if you
look at most actual products you will see that they specify both Diesel and
Petrol classifications, and hence are suitable for both, even though the can
labelling may or may not include the word 'Diesel'.  Currently, and in the UK,
Diesel oils to CF-4 and SJ are commonly available, whereas petrol oils are to
SL or SM.

The whole point is that there are many claims out there, some are undoubtedly
correct, some are confused, some are incorrect and some are downright lies.
How are we to know which are which if not for actual experience?  We are on
our own, and have to make our own decisions.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----



  I am not saying that you should use 0W/40 or that a low ZDDP oil is OK for
flat tappet engines.  All I am saying is that the API believes that the low
ZDDP oil is OK for flat tappet engines, or at least they did when they came
out with the latest standard.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep 24 02:48:06 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:48:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul><E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca><F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul><0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net><A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
	<006601ca3cac$362cfd40$a286f7c0$@com>
Message-ID: <F9A6CA5B8FF9495FA0086F0DDBCAB1E4@paul>

BTW, pretty-well every concern I have ever read on ZDDP issues has come from 
the USA, including this and other MG fora.  Is there general consensus now 
that there *is* no problem with the latest oils?

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> Of course, all those flat tappet engines before the late '60s did just 
> fine
> with .08% or less ZDDP :-)

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Sep 24 07:04:32 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:04:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <2DBBA2C1D0D8447CA0D27998D5508CBD@paul>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul>
	<E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca>
	<F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul>
	<0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
	<0KQF00DL5LE7K090@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<2DBBA2C1D0D8447CA0D27998D5508CBD@paul>
Message-ID: <0KQH004F68DY7131@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Yes, can't disagree with that.  Once again, the only thing I was 
trying to do was explain how a manufacturer could claim two API 
specifications without "making a mockery of the system".    As for my 
actual opinion on the ZDDP issue, which I have not actually stated 
yet, I look at it like this.  Maybe there is a problem with low ZDDP 
oils and maybe not.  I have read dozens of opinions and I still don't 
know.  My personal decision is to use Castrol Syntec 20W-50, 
"formulated for classic cars".  Castrol states "The level of Zinc in 
the new Syntec 20W-50 is a minimum of 1200 ppm, which will provide 
excellent anti-wear protection for the cam and lifters in a 
flat-tappet cam engine."  The only downside to this seems to be that 
it costs a lot more than the Castrol GTX I was using.  And it was 
hard to find.  Maybe there's a real issue here, maybe not.  Risking 
major engine damage (whether the risk is real or imagined) versus a 
few extra dollars, it seemed foolish to just ignore the issue.  As a 
wise fellow named Paul Hunt once said, we are on our own, and have to 
make our own decisions.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


At 04:12 AM 9/24/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>
>The whole point is that there are many claims out there, some are 
>undoubtedly correct, some are confused, some are incorrect and some 
>are downright lies.  How are we to know which are which if not for 
>actual experience?  We are on our own, and have to make our own decisions.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 24 10:33:03 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:33:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <0KQH004F68DY7131@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <C6E0ED4F.23C64%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Let's throw in some actual user experience, then.

When I took the head off my B engine, it had serious valve recession and
extreme cam and lifter wear (several cam lobes were worn down almost 0.2
inch). This was a non-smog high compression Gold Seal engine from the late
80s, with around 85K miles, almost all on Castrol GTX 20w50.

So, I am convinced that current formulations of the factory recommended
lubricant are inadequate for tappet protection. The service manual no longer
applies.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 9/24/09 6:04 AM, Steven Trovato at strovato at optonline.net wrote:

> Yes, can't disagree with that.  Once again, the only thing I was
> trying to do was explain how a manufacturer could claim two API
> specifications without "making a mockery of the system".    As for my
> actual opinion on the ZDDP issue, which I have not actually stated
> yet, I look at it like this.  Maybe there is a problem with low ZDDP
> oils and maybe not.  I have read dozens of opinions and I still don't
> know.  My personal decision is to use Castrol Syntec 20W-50,
> "formulated for classic cars".  Castrol states "The level of Zinc in
> the new Syntec 20W-50 is a minimum of 1200 ppm, which will provide
> excellent anti-wear protection for the cam and lifters in a
> flat-tappet cam engine."  The only downside to this seems to be that
> it costs a lot more than the Castrol GTX I was using.  And it was
> hard to find.  Maybe there's a real issue here, maybe not.  Risking
> major engine damage (whether the risk is real or imagined) versus a
> few extra dollars, it seemed foolish to just ignore the issue.  As a
> wise fellow named Paul Hunt once said, we are on our own, and have to
> make our own decisions.
> 
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato at optonline.net
> 
> 
> At 04:12 AM 9/24/2009, Paul Hunt wrote:
>> 
>> The whole point is that there are many claims out there, some are
>> undoubtedly correct, some are confused, some are incorrect and some
>> are downright lies.  How are we to know which are which if not for
>> actual experience?  We are on our own, and have to make our own decisions.

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep 24 10:56:50 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 12:56:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
Message-ID: <20090924.125651.2772.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

   This tappet wear problem raises the question:  If we don't rev our
engines above 5,000, do we need the double valve springs?
   Max, was your late 80s engine Gold Seal engine an 18V, fitted with one
spring per valve?
Bob



 
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:33:03 -0700 Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> Let's throw in some actual user experience, then.
> 
> When I took the head off my B engine, it had serious valve recession 
> and extreme cam and lifter wear (several cam lobes were worn down
almost 
> 0.2 inch). This was a non-smog high compression Gold Seal engine from 
> the late 80s, with around 85K miles, almost all on Castrol GTX 20w50.
> 
> So, I am convinced that current formulations of the factory 
> recommended lubricant are inadequate for tappet protection. The service
manual 
> no longer applies.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYb9agw2xu4udDDLYIabX1ZjlOyj3LnIRHOGB0BwybERb5BCe7e/

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 24 11:45:49 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:45:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <20090924.125651.2772.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <C6E0FE5D.23C6D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

It was a small valve head, with single valve springs, no water takeoff or
air injection ports. I'm not sure it exactly matched any particular original
US configuration -- it was set up with all 18GB accessories.

I have been known to rev it to 5500 on occasion.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires




on 9/24/09 9:56 AM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

>    This tappet wear problem raises the question:  If we don't rev our
> engines above 5,000, do we need the double valve springs?
>    Max, was your late 80s engine Gold Seal engine an 18V, fitted with one
> spring per valve?
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
>  
> On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:33:03 -0700 Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
> writes:
>> Let's throw in some actual user experience, then.
>> 
>> When I took the head off my B engine, it had serious valve recession
>> and extreme cam and lifter wear (several cam lobes were worn down
> almost 
>> 0.2 inch). This was a non-smog high compression Gold Seal engine from
>> the late 80s, with around 85K miles, almost all on Castrol GTX 20w50.
>> 
>> So, I am convinced that current formulations of the factory
>> recommended lubricant are inadequate for tappet protection. The service
> manual 
>> no longer applies.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep 24 12:47:21 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:47:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
Message-ID: <20090924.145436.2772.12.MGBOB@juno.com>

  Shoots down my theory.
Bob
 
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:45:49 -0700 Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> It was a small valve head, with single valve springs, no water 
> takeoff or air injection ports. I'm not sure it exactly matched any
particular 
> original US configuration -- it was set up with all 18GB accessories.
> 
> I have been known to rev it to 5500 on occasion.
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 9/24/09 9:56 AM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote:
> 
> >    This tappet wear problem raises the question:  If we don't rev 
> our engines above 5,000, do we need the double valve springs?
> >    Max, was your late 80s engine Gold Seal engine an 18V, fitted 
> with one
> > spring per valve?
> > Bob
> > 
>
____________________________________________________________
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http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTKNdOWJ5zhUQ0nt44QJs9oaTZ0anK6xCOQskEvd73tY0sye8XQtBe/

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Thu Sep 24 16:17:25 2009
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 18:17:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <F9A6CA5B8FF9495FA0086F0DDBCAB1E4@paul>
References: <C6DD69FD.23B0D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><6BA42E329F304EB2A6D4AB07D66AEAC0@paul><E1Mq7PW-0002q7-8O@theta.look.ca><F4C024EDAF4041D3AEE860ACFE256768@paul><0KQF00D6SAGWCD00@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net><A2A02DD0CB204834B75FF4E8E18A39FB@paul>
	<006601ca3cac$362cfd40$a286f7c0$@com>
	<F9A6CA5B8FF9495FA0086F0DDBCAB1E4@paul>
Message-ID: <006d01ca3d64$cc0c1bd0$64245370$@com>

There isn't any consensus, general or otherwise.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk] 
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 4:48 AM
To: Stephen West-fisher; 'MG List'
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil

BTW, pretty-well every concern I have ever read on ZDDP issues has come from

the USA, including this and other MG fora.  Is there general consensus now 
that there *is* no problem with the latest oils?

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Thu Sep 24 16:24:35 2009
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 18:24:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <C6E0ED4F.23C64%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <0KQH004F68DY7131@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<C6E0ED4F.23C64%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007301ca3d65$cc7373b0$655a5b10$@com>

So absolutely all other possibilities were ruled out?
I don't know what a "Gold Seal" engine was, but perhaps a replacement
overhauled engine? Were the old tappets used or replaced with new? Were
the tappet faces tested for the proper hardness (regardless of old or
new)? How about the camshaft itself? Was the engine properly pre-lubed
before the first start (probably at overhaul facility)? How many times had
the cores been used before this overhaul? Even a brand new engine can be
put together with substandard parts unknowingly.

The quality of metallurgy in replacement parts is not what it used to be,
and even high end overhaul facilities can make mistakes. My point is only
that there are many, many reasons for failures such as you experienced, of
which oil is only one.

My engine has never been overhauled, has 120,000 miles, and no symptoms of
problems with always using the current formulation of oil and unleaded fuel
since at least '84 when I bought it.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:33 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil

Let's throw in some actual user experience, then.

When I took the head off my B engine, it had serious valve recession and
extreme cam and lifter wear (several cam lobes were worn down almost 0.2
inch). This was a non-smog high compression Gold Seal engine from the late
80s, with around 85K miles, almost all on Castrol GTX 20w50.

So, I am convinced that current formulations of the factory recommended
lubricant are inadequate for tappet protection. The service manual no longer
applies.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 24 17:22:41 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 16:22:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
In-Reply-To: <007301ca3d65$cc7373b0$655a5b10$@com>
Message-ID: <C6E14D51.23C90%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

"Gold Seal" was the BMC brand for their top-grade rebuilt engine (i.e.
Factory rebuild). I am pretty sure that this grade included all new wearing
parts. There was also a Silver Seal that may have retained used parts.

The motor was a pull from a seriously rusty driver that had been imported
into California, but could not be registered as the motor was not CA spec
for the model year (74). It allegedly had less than 10K miles on the motor.
I had the pan pulled and the big end bearings inspected at the time, and
they had no visible wear, but we replaced them anyway.

So I can only indirectly vouch for the "break in", but I think I can draw
two conclusions:

1. As a non-smog "Euro-spec" rebuild, it did not feature hardened valve
seats, hence the valve recession;

2. Castrol 20w50 (actually, several different formulations over the period;
I am guessing SF through SL, at least; so it's hard to say at which point
the problems began) did not adequately protect the cam and tappets in a
spirited driving regime, even with moderate valve spring pressure and all
stock components.

Have you inspected your cam and tappets recently? Mine was driving "fine", I
would have said, before I tore it down for an unrelated problem.

I'm just sayin'...

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 9/24/09 3:24 PM, Stephen West-fisher at steve at coastaldatasystems.com
wrote:

> So absolutely all other possibilities were ruled out?
> I don't know what a "Gold Seal" engine was, but perhaps a replacement
> overhauled engine? Were the old tappets used or replaced with new? Were
> the tappet faces tested for the proper hardness (regardless of old or
> new)? How about the camshaft itself? Was the engine properly pre-lubed
> before the first start (probably at overhaul facility)? How many times had
> the cores been used before this overhaul? Even a brand new engine can be
> put together with substandard parts unknowingly.
> 
> The quality of metallurgy in replacement parts is not what it used to be,
> and even high end overhaul facilities can make mistakes. My point is only
> that there are many, many reasons for failures such as you experienced, of
> which oil is only one.
> 
> My engine has never been overhauled, has 120,000 miles, and no symptoms of
> problems with always using the current formulation of oil and unleaded fuel
> since at least '84 when I bought it.
> 
> --
> Stephen West-Fisher
> Coastal Data Systems
> 727.599.4271
> http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:33 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
> 
> Let's throw in some actual user experience, then.
> 
> When I took the head off my B engine, it had serious valve recession and
> extreme cam and lifter wear (several cam lobes were worn down almost 0.2
> inch). This was a non-smog high compression Gold Seal engine from the late
> 80s, with around 85K miles, almost all on Castrol GTX 20w50.
> 
> So, I am convinced that current formulations of the factory recommended
> lubricant are inadequate for tappet protection. The service manual no longer
> applies.

From don at napanet.net  Thu Sep 24 23:14:20 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 22:14:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB GT Special
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090924220353.03c3f6c8@pop.napanet.net>

Stumbled upon this on BaT.  The orange exterior and the light grey paint in 
the engine bay must have been part of the Special package for the Las Vegas 
market.
I think my GT is much nicer (but it's a '73).



Garaged Heirloom: 1967 MGB GT Special

24 Sep, 2009

This 1967 MGB GT Special has belonged to the seller's family since the late 
70's and was restored by his father in 2001. It has been in dry Las Vegas 
for the last 22 years but has not run in the last two since it was driven 
into the garage. It does not currently start and needs new tires. Find it 
here on the MG Experience Forum in Las Vegas, Nevada for $3500.

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/09/24/garaged-heirloom-1967-mgb-gt-special/


__________________________________________________________-



Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1962 MGA Mk II
1966 TR4A 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep 25 02:32:18 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 09:32:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Kendall Oil
References: <C6E14D51.23C90%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <F32198EB49DB40E697440AC57B32C452@paul>

Better than that.  They measured each part and replaced any out of spec, 
whereas new engines were built with new parts out of the box without 
checking them.  Of course parts *replaced* in a Gold Seal rebuilt engine 
probably were straight out of the box as well.  Gold Seal was a full engine, 
Silver Seal was a short engine.

Incidentally I've only just found out that the V6 engines used in the 2000s 
MG Z cars were hand-built and by that I mean assembled by one single person 
out of a small team of engine builders rather than being built on a line. 
Pity they didn't allow them to fit signature plates.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> "Gold Seal" was the BMC brand for their top-grade rebuilt engine (i.e.
> Factory rebuild). I am pretty sure that this grade included all new 
> wearing
> parts. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep 25 03:01:08 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:01:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB GT Special
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090924220353.03c3f6c8@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <D61A1DE3429442C6B957847CBCFC4CB5@paul>

Orange, possibly Blaze, certainly wasn't a factory colour in 67 (not till 
71) but Chelsea Grey was.  It would be very unlikely for a factory car to 
have different paint in the engine compartment to the exterior, almost 
certainly a partial respray.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> Stumbled upon this on BaT.  The orange exterior and the light grey paint 
> in
> the engine bay must have been part of the Special package for the Las 
> Vegas
> market.

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Fri Sep 25 08:59:42 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:59:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next week
Message-ID: <BD0AFAF0-2212-4555-A0AD-4A8E36D867D9@trebelhorn.com>

I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the  
engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E- 
Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.

Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half- 
day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday night?

Many thanks
Matt

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Fri Sep 25 09:50:14 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:50:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next
 week
In-Reply-To: <20090925.083922.25779.252061@mailpop07.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090925.083922.25779.252061@mailpop07.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <19B550E1-040F-469D-945F-25D19FA4DEFA@trebelhorn.com>

The engine is on a mover's dolly -- wood platform with casters.

I've always liked the XJ6C -- really pretty car.  But sadly, I can't  
take them -- don't have the trailer space, don't have the garage  
space... and I've already got a project Jag.

Matt

On 25 Sep, 2009, at 11:37 AM, gpd4 wrote:

> Do you need any more project cars???  While you're in the area I  
> have (2)
> XJ6Cs that need to find a new home ASAP.
> Is the engine on a dolly of an type or just laying on the ground?
>
> On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:59:42 -0400 Matt Trebelhorn
> <matt.lists at trebelhorn.com> writes:
>> I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the
>>
>> engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E-
>>
>> Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.
>>
>> Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half-
>>
>> day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday
>> night?
>>
>> Many thanks
>> Matt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as gpd4 at juno.com
>>
>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
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> AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABI2RwAAAAA=

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Fri Sep 25 10:03:38 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 12:03:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Shop-talk] Annapolis area -- need an engine hoist next
 week
In-Reply-To: <19B550E1-040F-469D-945F-25D19FA4DEFA@trebelhorn.com>
References: <20090925.083922.25779.252061@mailpop07.vgs.untd.com>
	<19B550E1-040F-469D-945F-25D19FA4DEFA@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460909250903x66b1382dp4ec3c10e2d69884c@mail.gmail.com>

Tell me about the XJ6Cs, I'm interested.

On Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 11:50 AM, Matt Trebelhorn
<matt.lists at trebelhorn.com> wrote:
> The engine is on a mover's dolly -- wood platform with casters.
>
> I've always liked the XJ6C -- really pretty car.  But sadly, I can't take
> them -- don't have the trailer space, don't have the garage space... and
> I've already got a project Jag.
>
> Matt
>
> On 25 Sep, 2009, at 11:37 AM, gpd4 wrote:
>
>> Do you need any more project cars???  While you're in the area I have (2)
>> XJ6Cs that need to find a new home ASAP.
>> Is the engine on a dolly of an type or just laying on the ground?
>>
>> On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:59:42 -0400 Matt Trebelhorn
>> <matt.lists at trebelhorn.com> writes:
>>>
>>> I'm picking up a project car, and I need an engine hoist to get the
>>>
>>> engine off the floor and into the back of a truck.  The car is an E-
>>>
>>> Type Jaguar; the engine weighs about as much as the sun.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions on local places to rent an engine hoist for a half-
>>>
>>> day -- or is anyone local, so equipped, and free this thursday
>>> night?
>>>
>>> Many thanks
>>> Matt
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as gpd4 at juno.com
>>>
>>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> Obama Raises Pell Grants
>> Get Your Degree with Government Grants and Scholarships!
>>
>>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=2d-dWa9Lx1DhvIhcqxRoTAAAJ1BWdaW
F231Ezf9cmf_ph6jCAAQAAAAFAAAAAObuAD8AAAMqAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABI2RwAAAAA=
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep 25 12:05:44 2009
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 13:05:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Manual washer pump nut
Message-ID: <97580F1416DE4159B0A2B897786626DF@HomePC>

I need a retaining nut for a manual w/s washer pump Moss part number 361-160.
This would have been standard on a 1098 Spridget or a 62 - 67 MGB.  It has a
weird thread that seems to be either 27tpi or 0.95 in metric and is about 5/8
diameter.  The pump works great but the cheap plastic nut broke and can't be
matched at the local hardware store.  Anybody have one laying around in their
misc. parts drawer?

Thanks,

Larry

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 26 14:20:01 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2009 13:20:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re:  Water Pump Replacement
In-Reply-To: <E26ED55DD62A407597883D7BB614FC7A@paul>
References: <684883.2055.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<E26ED55DD62A407597883D7BB614FC7A@paul>
Message-ID: <442869.80651.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well, the deed is done. Took me a couple of hours including a lunch break. No biggie, biggest pain in the rear is tightening
a couple of the hose clamps! The bolts on the original pump came right out. Just ran it for a bit, now will let it settle and check
for leaks. Thanks for the assist!

Only thing I didn't do was get the radiator a petcock. Job was too quick, and the rad shop isn't open Sat afternoons. Oh well,
I managed to contain the anti-freeze spill when I pulled out the lower hose. I undid all of the radiator bolts so I could move the
radiator around and get a little more control over the lower hose as it came off.

Oh, Paul, I got a cast iron pump. County brand. Fit like a charm.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Sep 27 03:27:49 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 10:27:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re:  Water Pump Replacement
References: <684883.2055.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<E26ED55DD62A407597883D7BB614FC7A@paul>
	<442869.80651.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DCA8865876A2470FB26E32D3B437D3A1@paul>

Oh yes, a dab of Waxoyl on the 'threads' of hose clamps works a treat :o)


PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----


    ... biggest pain in the rear is tightening
  a couple of the hose clamps!
  .

  __,_._,___

From degraff at erols.com  Sun Sep 27 15:10:26 2009
From: degraff at erols.com (Elliott and Martha DeGraff)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 17:10:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Distributor drive
Message-ID: <4ABFD4C2.7070301@erols.com>

I'm tearing down an 18K MGB engine.  I'm to the point where I'm ready to 
pull the cam, except I can't remove the distributor drive.  I screwed a 
5/16 fine thread cap screw into the end of the drive and pulled.  And 
pulled and pulled and pulled -- hard.  I pulled while turning the cam. 
I pulled with the crank in different positions.  I cannot get it to let 
go.  It turns, but doesn't pull out.  I can pull the cam to the point 
where the gears on the cam aren't engaged with the gears on the 
distributor drive, but it appears the distributor drive gears interfere 
with pulling the cam all the way out.  I would appreciate any 
suggestions anyone might have.

Elliott DeGraff
Poolesville, MD
71 B, 71 B, 72 B and an engine on a stand with a stuck distributor drive

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sun Sep 27 16:37:39 2009
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 17:37:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Distributor drive
In-Reply-To: <4ABFD4C2.7070301@erols.com>
References: <4ABFD4C2.7070301@erols.com>
Message-ID: <000001ca3fc3$1eb79200$5c26b600$@net>

Isn't there a sleeve that has to come off first?  Going on vague memory, but
there is a Philips head screw that goes through the base the distributor
sits on.  Remove the screw and then the base with sleeve attached, then the
drive.

Just a thought.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Elliott and Martha DeGraff
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 4:10 PM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Distributor drive

I'm tearing down an 18K MGB engine.  I'm to the point where I'm ready to 
pull the cam, except I can't remove the distributor drive.  I screwed a 
5/16 fine thread cap screw into the end of the drive and pulled.  And 
pulled and pulled and pulled -- hard.  I pulled while turning the cam. 
I pulled with the crank in different positions.  I cannot get it to let 
go.  It turns, but doesn't pull out.  I can pull the cam to the point 
where the gears on the cam aren't engaged with the gears on the 
distributor drive, but it appears the distributor drive gears interfere 
with pulling the cam all the way out.  I would appreciate any 
suggestions anyone might have.

Elliott DeGraff
Poolesville, MD
71 B, 71 B, 72 B and an engine on a stand with a stuck distributor drive
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From degraff at erols.com  Sun Sep 27 17:41:43 2009
From: degraff at erols.com (Elliott and Martha DeGraff)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 19:41:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Distributor drive
In-Reply-To: <000001ca3fc3$1eb79200$5c26b600$@net>
References: <4ABFD4C2.7070301@erols.com> <000001ca3fc3$1eb79200$5c26b600$@net>
Message-ID: <4ABFF837.8090200@erols.com>

Thanks Ed and Chad.  I can reliably report that removing the retaining 
collar makes it a lot easier to remove the distributor drive.  Sheesh.

Elliott

From mgmagnette at aim.com  Sun Sep 27 18:56:55 2009
From: mgmagnette at aim.com (mgmagnette)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:56:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Great old MG photo
Message-ID: <89891c76.9817.4fe3.91ff.64df9854d99a@aim.com>


From mgmagnette at aim.com  Sun Sep 27 18:57:27 2009
From: mgmagnette at aim.com (mgmagnette)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:57:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
Message-ID: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>

It has to be staged...

http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Sep 27 19:50:18 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 11:20:18 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
References: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
Message-ID: <4AC0165A.2010300@erickson.on.net>

mgmagnette wrote:
> It has to be staged...
> 
> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg

Great photo (I had to look twice to see which one was the MGB  :-)

I love the white sidewalls but at first thought they were flat, 
especially the front one.  It must be the camber of the road or an 
optical illusion.


Eric
'68 MGB
Adelaide, South Australia


.

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 27 20:00:58 2009
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 19:00:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
Message-ID: <469854.86561.qm@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, mgmagnette <mgmagnette at aim.com> wrote:

> It has to be staged...
> 
> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg

I get "Page Not Found."
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From sales at justbrits.com  Sun Sep 27 20:30:47 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 21:30:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
References: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
Message-ID: <4AC01FD7.2090403@justbrits.com>

<< It has to be staged... >>

Not sure of that, what ever your NAME is <G>????

After all, a Rambler Station Wagon in the left drive-way ??
And is that a Falcon behind the MGB ??

Ed

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sun Sep 27 20:47:25 2009
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 21:47:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA  Points
Message-ID: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com>

I have had to replace the points on my MGA's distributor after only 3 
months of service (less than a 1,000 miles).  Apparently, the rubbing 
block wore down so that the points remained closed.  The points could 
not be adjusted to increase the gap because they were already fully 
adjusted out.  I used Lucas points, part #151-720.  Has anyone else 
experienced this problem?  Is there a cause other than a defective 
part?  If so, what should I do to prevent its reoccurence?  The 
replacement set that was installed is also a Lucas 151-720.  When I 
installed the new set, they are adjusted nearly all the way out (i.e. no 
more room to open the gap much further).  The problem surfaces when it 
gets progressively more difficult to start the car.  However, once it 
starts, it runs fine  --  until the next time when it won't start.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 21:25:34 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:25:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Points
In-Reply-To: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com>
References: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10909272025i5a7d682q7fb3ba50cdb56838@mail.gmail.com>

Did you put any lube on the side of the rubbing block to prevent wear?  My
guess would be no.  Don't sweat it, that is a mistake we all make once.

When you put in the new points, but a small bead of grease on the side of
the rubbing block so that block runs on a thin film of grease.  This will
prevent premature wear.

On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 7:47 PM, Robert J. Guinness
<guinness at stclegal.com>wrote:

> I have had to replace the points on my MGA's distributor after only 3
> months of service (less than a 1,000 miles).  Apparently, the rubbing block
> wore down so that the points remained closed.  The points could not be
> adjusted to increase the gap because they were already fully adjusted out.
>  I used Lucas points, part #151-720.  Has anyone else experienced this
> problem?  Is there a cause other than a defective part?  If so, what should
> I do to prevent its reoccurence?  The replacement set that was installed is
> also a Lucas 151-720.  When I installed the new set, they are adjusted
> nearly all the way out (i.e. no more room to open the gap much further).
>  The problem surfaces when it gets progressively more difficult to start the
> car.  However, once it starts, it runs fine  --  until the next time when it
> won't start.
> --
> Robert Guinness
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 21:38:57 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:38:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <4AC0165A.2010300@erickson.on.net>
References: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
	<4AC0165A.2010300@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10909272038mb22f43ak70d723e567f9b154@mail.gmail.com>

NO optical delusion. Doing a little zooming, I can see that it is a pull
handle B and both left tires are FLAT.

On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 6:50 PM, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:

> mgmagnette wrote:
>
>> It has to be staged...
>>
>> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg
>>
>
> Great photo (I had to look twice to see which one was the MGB  :-)
>
> I love the white sidewalls but at first thought they were flat, especially
> the front one.  It must be the camber of the road or an optical illusion.
>
>
> Eric
> '68 MGB
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
> .
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Sep 27 22:07:06 2009
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 23:07:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA  Points
In-Reply-To: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com>
References: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <20090928040708.D498418764C@autox.team.net>

At 09:47 PM 9/27/2009 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>I have had to replace the points on my MGA's distributor after only 
>3 months of service (less than a 1,000 miles).  Apparently, the 
>rubbing block wore down so that the points remained closed.  The 
>points could not be adjusted to increase the gap because they were 
>already fully adjusted out. ....
>--

I had that problem once about 20 years ago.  In the middle of a long 
road trip I had replaced the ignition coil, and the problem started 
immediately thereafter.  I was driving more than 2000 miles per week 
on that trip, so the problem would reoccur every few days.  At one 
point I used large side cutters to notch out the slot for more 
adjustment range.

After returning home I discovered I had installed the wrong ignition 
coil, one intended for use with ballasted ignition system, half the 
resistance, twice the current with no ballast resistor.  Apparently 
the excess current would overheat the points and melt the rubbing 
block.  These were contact points with the red plastic rubbing 
foot.  Points set with phenolic rubbing block is more heat 
resistant.  Check resistance on the primary of your ignition coil, 
should be about 3.2-ohms (slightly lower for high energy coil).  If 
it measures around 1.6 ohms, see how far you can throw it.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 28 02:16:11 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:16:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
References: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
	<4AC0165A.2010300@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <80BA5E90884F45C2B6A9B38B6C0A57F2@paul>

They both look flat to me, in fact isn't that why he is looking at the right 
rear i.e. all four flat?  The wheels would have to be in a groove for the 
rim to be that close to the tarmac from the camera's angle, and they don't 
extend as far as the car behind, i.e. can't simply be camber.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I love the white sidewalls but at first thought they were flat, especially 
> the front one.  It must be the camber of the road or an optical illusion.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 28 02:23:11 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:23:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA  Points
References: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <DE25553B2CE240969DAEE0A1A7CDE19C@paul>

Are you sure you are using the correct points for that distributor (which 
may not be correct for the year of the car)?  Fully adjusted out on *new* 
points can't be right.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  When I installed the new set, they are adjusted nearly all the way 
> out (i.e. no more room to open the gap much further). 

From mlambdin at towson.edu  Mon Sep 28 05:49:25 2009
From: mlambdin at towson.edu (Lambdin, Mike)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 07:49:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA  Points
In-Reply-To: <20090928040708.D498418764C@autox.team.net>
References: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com>
	<20090928040708.D498418764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC0801325F76F89B@OAK.towson.edu>

Ditto Barney's advice...I once had the exact same coil problem.

Mike Lambdin

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Barney Gaylord
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 12:07 AM
To: Robert J. Guinness; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Points

At 09:47 PM 9/27/2009 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>I have had to replace the points on my MGA's distributor after only
>3 months of service (less than a 1,000 miles).  Apparently, the
>rubbing block wore down so that the points remained closed.  The
>points could not be adjusted to increase the gap because they were
>already fully adjusted out. ....
>--

I had that problem once about 20 years ago.  In the middle of a long
road trip I had replaced the ignition coil, and the problem started
immediately thereafter.  I was driving more than 2000 miles per week
on that trip, so the problem would reoccur every few days.  At one
point I used large side cutters to notch out the slot for more
adjustment range.

After returning home I discovered I had installed the wrong ignition
coil, one intended for use with ballasted ignition system, half the
resistance, twice the current with no ballast resistor.  Apparently
the excess current would overheat the points and melt the rubbing
block.  These were contact points with the red plastic rubbing
foot.  Points set with phenolic rubbing block is more heat
resistant.  Check resistance on the primary of your ignition coil,
should be about 3.2-ohms (slightly lower for high energy coil).  If
it measures around 1.6 ohms, see how far you can throw it.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Sep 28 08:11:21 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 10:11:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
References: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
Message-ID: <E1MsGym-0008Df-Jd@theta.look.ca>

The MGB has "flat" tyres which maybe the result of cutting and 
pasting BUT the houses picture is I reckon from way back.  There are 
not the usual drive-full of cars because of the garages being full of junk !!!


At 08:57 PM 9/27/2009, mgmagnette wrote:
>It has to be staged...
>
>http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 28 10:13:46 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <E1MsGym-0008Df-Jd@theta.look.ca>
References: <74dab309.e0fa.42ac.acfd.c393fa3f7f9e@aim.com>
	<E1MsGym-0008Df-Jd@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <553657.34122.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well, I just spent an hour looking around this site, great old pics!

Here is another MG one - guess I am kind of surprised that the Caddy limo isn't THAT much larger than the TD!

http://www.shorpy.com/node/4274?size=_original

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase

From vlw66 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 10:20:09 2009
From: vlw66 at sbcglobal.net (Jeff Foster)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:20:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <469854.86561.qm@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <469854.86561.qm@web112118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <528592.76575.qm@web180015.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I too was simply getting "Page not found", after much searching I finally
found the picture of interest here:
http://www.shorpy.com/node/3850?size=_original

 


----- Original Message
----
From: David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 9:00:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Great Old MGB
Photo

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, mgmagnette <mgmagnette at aim.com> wrote:

> It has
to be staged...
> 
> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg

I get
"Page Not Found."

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 10:32:57 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:32:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <4AC0165A.2010300@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <C6E63349.23D8F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I think they are flat -- there are wrinkles in the sidewalls. Look at the
tires on the Falcon -- they aren't hidden by road camber. I think the guy in
the suit is looking at the curbside tires to see if they are also flat.
Strange little vignette. Who took the photo -- the prankster?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 9/27/09 6:50 PM, Eric Erickson at eric at erickson.on.net wrote:

> mgmagnette wrote:
>> It has to be staged...
>> 
>> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg
> 
> Great photo (I had to look twice to see which one was the MGB  :-)
> 
> I love the white sidewalls but at first thought they were flat,
> especially the front one.  It must be the camber of the road or an
> optical illusion.
> 
> 
> Eric
> '68 MGB
> Adelaide, South Australia

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Sep 28 13:29:00 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 15:29:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
Message-ID: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca>

Another point! - Look at the shadows under the MGB and then under the 
"red cart".   The latter shadow would seem to be from a lower angled 
sun than the former?

My question is why?  It is not an earth shattering photo or overall 
subject. Strange !!


The MGB has "flat" tyres which maybe the result of cutting and 
pasting BUT the houses picture is I reckon from way back.  There are 
not the usual drive-full of cars because of the garages being full of junk !!!


At 08:57 PM 9/27/2009, mgmagnette wrote:
>It has to be staged...
>
>http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060  

From itswonderful at comcast.net  Mon Sep 28 15:52:08 2009
From: itswonderful at comcast.net (Frank P. Marrone)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 14:52:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC0801325F76F89B@OAK.towson.edu>
References: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com><20090928040708.D498418764C@autox.team.net>
	<6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC0801325F76F89B@OAK.towson.edu>
Message-ID: <E621FDD8816F4EBF862774EC3E7BD394@FPMengineering>

Can someone tell me the typical ground clearance for a '73 MGB-GT?  It would
be useful to know this as measured from the frame rail section about 12
inches forward of the transmission cross-member.  How much road clearance
usually exists with the stock exhaust system?  It has been a while since my
car was off the jack stands and I'm working on a section of the exhaust.  It
looks like it hangs down too far to me.

Frank 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 16:20:20 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 15:20:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <E621FDD8816F4EBF862774EC3E7BD394@FPMengineering>
Message-ID: <C6E684B4.23DDD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Somewhere between "barely adequate" and "not nearly enough", depending on
instantaneous local conditions.

<g>


Explain again -- you want a measurement to the frame rail? But the exhaust
hangs quite a bit below the frame rail. Clearance to the frame, of course,
is dependent on wheels and tires fitted, spring health, vehicle & passenger
weight, and so on, so I don't know that measuring my roadster will help you.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 9/28/09 2:52 PM, Frank P. Marrone at itswonderful at comcast.net wrote:

> Can someone tell me the typical ground clearance for a '73 MGB-GT?  It would
> be useful to know this as measured from the frame rail section about 12
> inches forward of the transmission cross-member.  How much road clearance
> usually exists with the stock exhaust system?  It has been a while since my
> car was off the jack stands and I'm working on a section of the exhaust.  It
> looks like it hangs down too far to me.
> 
> Frank 

From itswonderful at comcast.net  Mon Sep 28 16:50:12 2009
From: itswonderful at comcast.net (Frank P. Marrone)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 15:50:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <C6E684B4.23DDD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <E621FDD8816F4EBF862774EC3E7BD394@FPMengineering>
	<C6E684B4.23DDD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <B67C52ABFB3C4583B63BFC1CA644B4AC@FPMengineering>

I called out the frame rail because it seems like a good easy to reference
point.  From there I can gauge if my particular exhaust system configuration
is ok or at least in the norm.  

My car has stock rims with a stock or nearly stock tire. It probably has
sagging springs but that is something I can better access after the car is
back on the ground.  

I take it that exhaust to road clearance is a sore spot?  I've had a couple
of MGBs and I have to say I've had more problems with exhausts on other cars
but maybe I was just too pre-occupied with other issues on my MGBs.

Frank

      

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:20 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
> 
> Somewhere between "barely adequate" and "not nearly enough", depending on
> instantaneous local conditions.
> 
> <g>
> 
> 
> Explain again -- you want a measurement to the frame rail? But the exhaust
> hangs quite a bit below the frame rail. Clearance to the frame, of course,
> is dependent on wheels and tires fitted, spring health, vehicle &
> passenger
> weight, and so on, so I don't know that measuring my roadster will help
> you.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 17:28:36 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:28:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <B67C52ABFB3C4583B63BFC1CA644B4AC@FPMengineering>
Message-ID: <C6E694B4.23DFC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I never had trouble when I ran taller-than-stock tires (175R14), but now
that I have 175/70-14s I often scrape on curb cuts. The ride height
difference was only about 5/8 inch, I think, so you can see it's a pretty
near thing.

One of these (well, more in the nature of an offroad excursion) just cracked
the weld at the front of the muffler, so now it is sagging downward, making
measurement pointless.

Off the top of my head, I would say if you have 4.5 or 5 inches to the low
point of the muffler, you are not far out of normal. Any more is a bonus.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/28/09 3:50 PM, Frank P. Marrone at itswonderful at comcast.net wrote:

> I called out the frame rail because it seems like a good easy to reference
> point.  From there I can gauge if my particular exhaust system configuration
> is ok or at least in the norm.
> 
> My car has stock rims with a stock or nearly stock tire. It probably has
> sagging springs but that is something I can better access after the car is
> back on the ground.
> 
> I take it that exhaust to road clearance is a sore spot?  I've had a couple
> of MGBs and I have to say I've had more problems with exhausts on other cars
> but maybe I was just too pre-occupied with other issues on my MGBs.
> 
> Frank
> 
>       
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Max Heim
>> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:20 PM
>> To: MG List
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
>> 
>> Somewhere between "barely adequate" and "not nearly enough", depending on
>> instantaneous local conditions.
>> 
>> <g>
>> 
>> 
>> Explain again -- you want a measurement to the frame rail? But the exhaust
>> hangs quite a bit below the frame rail. Clearance to the frame, of course,
>> is dependent on wheels and tires fitted, spring health, vehicle &
>> passenger
>> weight, and so on, so I don't know that measuring my roadster will help
>> you.
>> 
>> 
>> --

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Mon Sep 28 18:23:20 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:23:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca>
References: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4AC15378.2060805@gmail.com>

Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Another point! - Look at the shadows under the MGB and then under the 
> "red cart".   The latter shadow would seem to be from a lower angled 
> sun than the former?
>
> My question is why?  It is not an earth shattering photo or overall 
> subject. Strange !!
>
>
> The MGB has "flat" tyres which maybe the result of cutting and pasting 
> BUT the houses picture is I reckon from way back.  There are not the 
> usual drive-full of cars because of the garages being full of junk !!! 
What about that green fastback parked on top of the hedge?   :)

-The Roxter
--

From sales at justbrits.com  Mon Sep 28 18:36:03 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:36:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <B67C52ABFB3C4583B63BFC1CA644B4AC@FPMengineering>
References: <E621FDD8816F4EBF862774EC3E7BD394@FPMengineering>
	<C6E684B4.23DDD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<B67C52ABFB3C4583B63BFC1CA644B4AC@FPMengineering>
Message-ID: <4AC15673.4030304@justbrits.com>

<<I take it that exhaust to road clearance is a sore spot? >>

Yes Frank, and just like Big Healeys & Spridgetsc<G> !!

<<I've had a coupleof MGBs and I have to say I've had more problems
with exhausts on other cars but maybe I was just too pre-occupied
with other issues on my MGBs.>>

LOL & BTDT !!

Tore a brand NEW system off a Spridget once whilst
NOT paying attention to where I was actually going<G>!!
Stupid speed bump !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From sales at justbrits.com  Mon Sep 28 18:39:17 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:39:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <4AC15378.2060805@gmail.com>
References: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca>
  <4AC15378.2060805@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AC15735.5030902@justbrits.com>

<<What about that green fastback parked on top of the hedge?    :) >>

What about it, Rocky.  Only thing I canNOT tell about
it is if it's an round or square type rear window on a
V.W. Beetle !!!!      <VBG>!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 18:38:03 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:38:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C6E6A4FB.23E10%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

As an experienced Photoshop user I see no evidence that this photo has been
altered.  I don't know why anyone should think it was. The only odd thing is
why is it on the internet..




on 9/28/09 12:29 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> Another point! - Look at the shadows under the MGB and then under the
> "red cart".   The latter shadow would seem to be from a lower angled
> sun than the former?
> 
> My question is why?  It is not an earth shattering photo or overall
> subject. Strange !!
> 
> 
> The MGB has "flat" tyres which maybe the result of cutting and
> pasting BUT the houses picture is I reckon from way back.  There are
> not the usual drive-full of cars because of the garages being full of junk !!!
> 
> 
> At 08:57 PM 9/27/2009, mgmagnette wrote:
>> It has to be staged...
>> 
>> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>> 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> (705) 721-9060  
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From itswonderful at comcast.net  Mon Sep 28 18:43:31 2009
From: itswonderful at comcast.net (Frank P. Marrone)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:43:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <C6E694B4.23DFC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <B67C52ABFB3C4583B63BFC1CA644B4AC@FPMengineering>
	<C6E694B4.23DFC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <55DE61EA9CB54CB391417B66AEC6DBE2@FPMengineering>

Thanks!  If you or anyone else could give me an idea about how far from the
road to the frame rail I mentioned that would be really helpful since I
don't want to take the car off the stands just now to measure the actual
exhaust clearance.  Or, to ask another way how far is the exhaust typically
below the frame rail I used for reference.

Frank



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 4:29 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
> 
> I never had trouble when I ran taller-than-stock tires (175R14), but now
> that I have 175/70-14s I often scrape on curb cuts. The ride height
> difference was only about 5/8 inch, I think, so you can see it's a pretty
> near thing.
> 
> One of these (well, more in the nature of an offroad excursion) just
> cracked
> the weld at the front of the muffler, so now it is sagging downward,
> making
> measurement pointless.
> 
> Off the top of my head, I would say if you have 4.5 or 5 inches to the low
> point of the muffler, you are not far out of normal. Any more is a bonus.
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Sep 28 18:50:51 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:50:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <4AC15378.2060805@gmail.com>
References: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca>
  <4AC15378.2060805@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AED513F7-D542-4A24-8AFF-1D5B4959E766@gmail.com>

Green fastback?
Do you mean the VW bug parked in the driveway of the cross street?   
That is not a hedge in front of the bug.  The street is inclined that  
is some non level dirt that connects the two lots. Zoom the picture  
and you will see it is mostly brown with some individual plants  
planted there.
I also see nothing wrong with the shadows. The picture was taken near  
midday with the sun slightly in front od the MG. Look at the shadow  
under the Falcon, it is consistant with the B.
By the looks of the houses ground cover and hills in the background  
this very well might be a then new housing development in California  
possibly the San Fernando Valley.
And here I thought my eyes were getting old and bad. You guys are sure  
making me feel better about my vision.


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 28, 2009, at 17:23, The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote:

> Barrie Robinson wrote:
>> Another point! - Look at the shadows under the MGB and then under  
>> the "red cart".   The latter shadow would seem to be from a lower  
>> angled sun than the former?
>>
>> My question is why?  It is not an earth shattering photo or overall  
>> subject. Strange !!
>>
>>
>> The MGB has "flat" tyres which maybe the result of cutting and  
>> pasting BUT the houses picture is I reckon from way back.  There  
>> are not the usual drive-full of cars because of the garages being  
>> full of junk !!!
> What about that green fastback parked on top of the hedge?   :)
>
> -The Roxter
> --
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 28 19:31:16 2009
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 18:31:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <4AC02037.80503@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <525643.46483.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, Sales at " Just Brits " <sales at justbrits.com> wrote:

> Straight from
> the actual
> site, David ?!?!  Lemme know if
> is works OK.
> 
> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg


Nope, I still get "Page not found".

- Dave

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Mon Sep 28 19:32:01 2009
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:32:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <E621FDD8816F4EBF862774EC3E7BD394@FPMengineering>
Message-ID: <200909290132.n8T1W3sj027640@mail938c35.nsolutionszone.com>

Frank,

Don't know where they measured from, but the 1972 sales catalog says 5" for
the GT.

David


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Frank P. Marrone
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 4:52 PM
To: 'MG List'
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?

Can someone tell me the typical ground clearance for a '73 MGB-GT?...

From nsippel at mindspring.com  Mon Sep 28 20:06:18 2009
From: nsippel at mindspring.com (Norm)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 22:06:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
Message-ID: <009101ca40a9$7123e930$6401a8c0@normoffice>

"It looks like it hangs down too far to me."

Frank:

It's an MGB!  Drooping MGB exhaust systems were my bane for years -- on my
brand new '65 (back when) up to my late '66.

Even Kyosho, when they made a 1:18 scale MGB, made the exhaust droopy.  Now,
that's attention to detail.

Seriously. you CAN work it to be higher.  But, then you run the risk of it
hitting somewhere.  My last B, the '66, was lowered a lot for racing.
Because I also used it as my daily driver, I tucked the exhaust up as far as
I could.  Always had an annoying rumble from where it was hitting something.
But, with a 2" Peco system, I could only do so much.

Norm

From itswonderful at comcast.net  Mon Sep 28 20:33:59 2009
From: itswonderful at comcast.net (Frank P. Marrone)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:33:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <009101ca40a9$7123e930$6401a8c0@normoffice>
References: <009101ca40a9$7123e930$6401a8c0@normoffice>
Message-ID: <92063871E932486DA720766A9B00954D@FPMengineering>

Hmmm, well it looks like what I have is almost 2-3/4" below the frame rail
reference I mentioned.  Is this within the norm?

Frank


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Norm
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 7:06 PM
> To: MG Digest
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
> 
> "It looks like it hangs down too far to me."
> 
> Frank:
> 
> It's an MGB!  Drooping MGB exhaust systems were my bane for years -- on my
> brand new '65 (back when) up to my late '66.
> 
> Even Kyosho, when they made a 1:18 scale MGB, made the exhaust droopy.
> Now,
> that's attention to detail.
> 
> Seriously. you CAN work it to be higher.  But, then you run the risk of it
> hitting somewhere.  My last B, the '66, was lowered a lot for racing.
> Because I also used it as my daily driver, I tucked the exhaust up as far
> as
> I could.  Always had an annoying rumble from where it was hitting
> something.
> But, with a 2" Peco system, I could only do so much.
> 
> Norm

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 22:15:43 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 21:15:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <92063871E932486DA720766A9B00954D@FPMengineering>
Message-ID: <C6E6D7FF.23E29%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Well, it isn't too far out, at any rate. I think mine is at least 3 inches
below as of now, maybe more like 4. But if the weld was tight it would be
higher -- I used to have it tucked up pretty nicely. But it's just swiveling
at the joint and swinging low. I am undecided whether to go to the muffler
shop or just do some kludge with baling wire, which would be more in keeping
with the rest of the car. I am kind of digging the sound, too.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 9/28/09 7:33 PM, Frank P. Marrone at itswonderful at comcast.net wrote:

> Hmmm, well it looks like what I have is almost 2-3/4" below the frame rail
> reference I mentioned.  Is this within the norm?
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Norm
>> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 7:06 PM
>> To: MG Digest
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
>> 
>> "It looks like it hangs down too far to me."
>> 
>> Frank:
>> 
>> It's an MGB!  Drooping MGB exhaust systems were my bane for years -- on my
>> brand new '65 (back when) up to my late '66.
>> 
>> Even Kyosho, when they made a 1:18 scale MGB, made the exhaust droopy.
>> Now,
>> that's attention to detail.
>> 
>> Seriously. you CAN work it to be higher.  But, then you run the risk of it
>> hitting somewhere.  My last B, the '66, was lowered a lot for racing.
>> Because I also used it as my daily driver, I tucked the exhaust up as far
>> as
>> I could.  Always had an annoying rumble from where it was hitting
>> something.
>> But, with a 2" Peco system, I could only do so much.
>> 
>> Norm

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Sep 28 22:33:37 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 14:03:37 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
In-Reply-To: <C6E6D7FF.23E29%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C6E6D7FF.23E29%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4AC18E21.8060906@erickson.on.net>

I have no idea about "stock" clearance but I just went out and measured 
the lowest point of the exhaust and it is about 3.5" - now wonder she 
scrapes if I go over the rumble strips (especially if the suspension 
compresses at all at the same time).


Eric
'68MGB
Adelaide, South Australia

From vlw66 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 23:16:34 2009
From: vlw66 at sbcglobal.net (J Foster)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 00:16:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <525643.46483.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <4AC02037.80503@justbrits.com>
	<525643.46483.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5DCA3DB8EE37492B96C3210EA376257F@escort>

Dave, Did you try the link I sent?
http://www.shorpy.com/node/3850?size=_original

Also if you scroll down in the comments there's a comment titled "Diamond
Bar Now" and a Google "Street View" showing the same location today.



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Breneman
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 8:31 PM
To: sales at justbrits.com
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, Sales at " Just Brits " <sales at justbrits.com> wrote:

> Straight from
> the actual
> site, David ?!?!  Lemme know if
> is works OK.
> 
> http://www.shorpy.com/files/images/redwagon.jpg


Nope, I still get "Page not found".

- Dave
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From vlw66 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 23:20:15 2009
From: vlw66 at sbcglobal.net (J Foster)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 00:20:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <AED513F7-D542-4A24-8AFF-1D5B4959E766@gmail.com>
References: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca> <4AC15378.2060805@gmail.com>
	<AED513F7-D542-4A24-8AFF-1D5B4959E766@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B7A724639E7F4E1089631DF759086BDF@escort>

Location is 2428 Castle Rock Rd, Diamond Bar, CA 91765 according to the
Google map in the comments.

http://www.shorpy.com/node/3850#comment-36506


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 7:51 PM
To: The Roxter
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net >> mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo

Green fastback?
Do you mean the VW bug parked in the driveway of the cross street?   
That is not a hedge in front of the bug.  The street is inclined that is
some non level dirt that connects the two lots. Zoom the picture and you
will see it is mostly brown with some individual plants planted there.
I also see nothing wrong with the shadows. The picture was taken near midday
with the sun slightly in front od the MG. Look at the shadow under the
Falcon, it is consistant with the B.
By the looks of the houses ground cover and hills in the background this
very well might be a then new housing development in California possibly the
San Fernando Valley.
And here I thought my eyes were getting old and bad. You guys are sure
making me feel better about my vision.


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 28, 2009, at 17:23, The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote:

> Barrie Robinson wrote:
>> Another point! - Look at the shadows under the MGB and then under  
>> the "red cart".   The latter shadow would seem to be from a lower  
>> angled sun than the former?
>>
>> My question is why?  It is not an earth shattering photo or overall 
>> subject. Strange !!
>>
>>
>> The MGB has "flat" tyres which maybe the result of cutting and 
>> pasting BUT the houses picture is I reckon from way back.  There are 
>> not the usual drive-full of cars because of the garages being full of 
>> junk !!!
> What about that green fastback parked on top of the hedge?   :)
>
> -The Roxter
> --
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 29 03:00:06 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 10:00:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
References: <E1MsLwA-00051f-On@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <DB54FCD57FF34BBA9469D6A2F3794296@paul>

Did you read the texts?

Little red wagons says "Diamond Bar, California, August 1965. The owner of 
the MG across the street isn't having quite as good a day as my niece and 
nephew. I shot this on 35mm Kodachrome."

http://www.shorpy.com/node/5781 Suburban Cowboy 1963 - "I just started 
scanning my sister's photos of her kids from the 1960s..."  Shows what looks 
like the same red wagon, although obviously newer.

No doubt in my mind that they are nothing more or less than they purport to 
be.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Another point! - Look at the shadows under the MGB and then under the "red 
> cart".   The latter shadow would seem to be from a lower angled sun than 
> the former?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 29 03:21:28 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 10:21:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Stock ground clearance?
References: <4AC023BD.2050106@stclegal.com><20090928040708.D498418764C@autox.team.net><6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC0801325F76F89B@OAK.towson.edu>
	<E621FDD8816F4EBF862774EC3E7BD394@FPMengineering>
Message-ID: <0C62960B34444E8695F98D0235CC82BB@paul>

It would have been at the *lowest* point, which wasn't specified - 5" for 
4-cylinder CB roadster and GT.  The V8 exhaust was a problem which was why 
it always had the jacked-up cross-member and rear spring mounting points, 
said to give it an extra 1/2", but still only managed 4 1/4".  These same 
points were later used later on all RB cars, and together with spring 
changes gave an extra 1 1/2".  My RB V8 was down to 3 1/2" before I replaced 
the front springs, up to a shade under 4 1/2" after.  Before replacing the 
front springs on my CB roadster the clearance from the rear edge of the 
cross-member was 5 1/2", after 6 5/8" but has settled a bit since then. 
With a GT it is probably easier to measure the overall height - 4ft 1 3/4" - 
and work it out from there if yours is lower than it should be or whether 
the whole car is lower.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> Can someone tell me the typical ground clearance for a '73 MGB-GT? 

From tmcl98 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 29 07:36:27 2009
From: tmcl98 at yahoo.com (Tom McLaughlin)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 06:36:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB...for sale...fair price?
Message-ID: <294199.1580.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

All,
Regrettably, I've come to the decision to sell my 1977MGB.  I post this
to the list first to see if anyone is interested before posting it other
places.  With 2 little kids, soccer games, baseball, etc, it is impossible to
keep up as several of you know.  My enjoyment out of owning the MG was
tinkering with it on the weekends.  I just don't have time for it right now. 
Perhaps again in a few years.

I ask the lists advice on a fair price.  I was
thinking somewhere around $2,500, but please let me know what you think is
fair.

I've owned the car since 1996.  I bought it in Texas for $1,900 and
moved it to St. Louis Missouri in 1998 where it resides today.  I don't know
the history of it before I bought it, but it has been garaged the entire time
I've owned it and driven mostly on the weekends.

It has never been restored
and I think it is fairly close to original, but I am not entirely sure.  It
has overdrive that works.  I just had a new fuel pump put in and a bunch of
work done on the electrical system to get it to pass safety inspection. 
Through the years, I've gone through many things in the car such as:

-Fixed
overdrive (lockout switch was all that was wrong with it)
-Brakes
-Alternators
-Fuel pumps
-Rebuilt the carb (ZS)
-Starter
-New exhaust
-Clutch master and
slave
-Fixed a bunch of electrical stuff
-And a bunch of other things I can't
think of right now so I'll have to get out my records

The engine was not
rebuilt in the time that I had it.  I've put less than 10k miles on it

I also
have a new top that I bought and never installed which cost about $300.

I
took a few pics and posted them here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmcl98
Please let me know what you think a fair price is or if anyone on the list is
interested in taking a look at it.

Tom
77B (for now)

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 29 08:17:37 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 07:17:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB...for sale...fair price?
In-Reply-To: <294199.1580.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <294199.1580.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <321768.93849.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Tom, hard to say as I am not in your area - but you don't mention rust (or lack thereof). Assuming it is in good
shape rust-wise and runs well, $2,500 seems like a decent price to me.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
twitter: dandibiase





________________________________
From: Tom McLaughlin <tmcl98 at yahoo.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 9:36:27 AM
Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB...for sale...fair price?

All,
Regrettably, I've come to the decision to sell my 1977MGB.  I post this
to the list first to see if anyone is interested before posting it other
places.  With 2 little kids, soccer games, baseball, etc, it is impossible to
keep up as several of you know.  My enjoyment out of owning the MG was
tinkering with it on the weekends.  I just don't have time for it right now. 
Perhaps again in a few years.

I ask the lists advice on a fair price.  I was
thinking somewhere around $2,500, but please let me know what you think is
fair.

I've owned the car since 1996.  I bought it in Texas for $1,900 and
moved it to St. Louis Missouri in 1998 where it resides today.  I don't know
the history of it before I bought it, but it has been garaged the entire time
I've owned it and driven mostly on the weekends.

It has never been restored
and I think it is fairly close to original, but I am not entirely sure.  It
has overdrive that works.  I just had a new fuel pump put in and a bunch of
work done on the electrical system to get it to pass safety inspection. 
Through the years, I've gone through many things in the car such as:

-Fixed
overdrive (lockout switch was all that was wrong with it)
-Brakes
-Alternators
-Fuel pumps
-Rebuilt the carb (ZS)
-Starter
-New exhaust
-Clutch master and
slave
-Fixed a bunch of electrical stuff
-And a bunch of other things I can't
think of right now so I'll have to get out my records

The engine was not
rebuilt in the time that I had it.  I've put less than 10k miles on it

I also
have a new top that I bought and never installed which cost about $300.

I
took a few pics and posted them here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmcl98
Please let me know what you think a fair price is or if anyone on the list is
interested in taking a look at it.

Tom
77B (for now)
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Sep 29 08:52:29 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 09:52:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB...for sale...fair price?
In-Reply-To: <294199.1580.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <294199.1580.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BF5C5D15-252F-4B9F-A25E-2DC37024EFD2@gmail.com>

Well,
	I have a vested interest here, as I have a 77 as well.

	You have a better body than mine (mine's dented, no rust). I don't  
see if there's any rust on yours.

	I have converted to twin SUs.

	I don't have overdrive.

	My top is fine, but not beautiful.

	That said, there is no way I'd let my car go for only $2500. I may be  
wrong, but that's the way I feel.

	I made it through the little kid stage, now in the teenager stage,  
and they would be pretty mad if I sold it before they could drive. :-)

	You look to have a good solid car. You've worked out the engine  
exterior. The body looks to be solid.

	What about the engine interior. You say it hasn't been rebuilt by  
you. Does it have decent compression and oil pressure? Or is this  
going to need a rebuild in the near future?

	What about the clutch?

	Suspension rebuilt?

	Personally, if the engine, tranny, and clutch are good. And there  
isn't rust hiding from the camera, I'd probably add a $1000. But then  
winter is coming and it would be going in storage, so that might knock  
some off. St Louis is no place to drive that in winter. But if it went  
to someone a bit further south??

Paul.




On Sep 29, 2009, at 8:36 AM, Tom McLaughlin wrote:

> All,
> Regrettably, I've come to the decision to sell my 1977MGB.  I post  
> this
> to the list first to see if anyone is interested before posting it  
> other
> places.  With 2 little kids, soccer games, baseball, etc, it is  
> impossible to
> keep up as several of you know.  My enjoyment out of owning the MG was
> tinkering with it on the weekends.  I just don't have time for it  
> right now.
> Perhaps again in a few years.
>
> I ask the lists advice on a fair price.  I was
> thinking somewhere around $2,500, but please let me know what you  
> think is
> fair.
>
> I've owned the car since 1996.  I bought it in Texas for $1,900 and
> moved it to St. Louis Missouri in 1998 where it resides today.  I  
> don't know
> the history of it before I bought it, but it has been garaged the  
> entire time
> I've owned it and driven mostly on the weekends.
>
> It has never been restored
> and I think it is fairly close to original, but I am not entirely  
> sure.  It
> has overdrive that works.  I just had a new fuel pump put in and a  
> bunch of
> work done on the electrical system to get it to pass safety  
> inspection.
> Through the years, I've gone through many things in the car such as:
>
> -Fixed
> overdrive (lockout switch was all that was wrong with it)
> -Brakes
> -Alternators
> -Fuel pumps
> -Rebuilt the carb (ZS)
> -Starter
> -New exhaust
> -Clutch master and
> slave
> -Fixed a bunch of electrical stuff
> -And a bunch of other things I can't
> think of right now so I'll have to get out my records
>
> The engine was not
> rebuilt in the time that I had it.  I've put less than 10k miles on it
>
> I also
> have a new top that I bought and never installed which cost about  
> $300.
>
> I
> took a few pics and posted them here:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmcl98
> Please let me know what you think a fair price is or if anyone on  
> the list is
> interested in taking a look at it.
>
> Tom
> 77B (for now)
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 29 09:45:49 2009
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 08:45:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Great Old MGB Photo
In-Reply-To: <5DCA3DB8EE37492B96C3210EA376257F@escort>
Message-ID: <799986.39897.qm@web112104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Mon, 9/28/09, J Foster <vlw66 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Dave, Did you try the link I sent?
> http://www.shorpy.com/node/3850?size=_original

That link worked.  I must have missed it the first time.
Thanks!

- Dave

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 29 16:02:19 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:02:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ball Joints
Message-ID: <E1Mskm7-0006lh-DH@theta.look.ca>

  I apologise for sending out this missive but the Aston list is 
pretty small - me and two others !   I am desperately looking for 
ball joints for my '55 Aston with no luck.  I believe they may have 
been made by Quintex Hazel but I cannot find them - may have the 
spelling wrong.  More likely they have gone the way of many other 
fine UK establishments.  Is anyone out there familiar with them........

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Sep 29 16:13:04 2009
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:13:04 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Ball Joints
Message-ID: <cfb.62e5e27c.37f3e070@aol.com>

Barrie - it was Quinton Hazel. If you have a part number like QSJ  xxxx  I 
can see if they were the same as anything else.
 
Kevin Kay Restorations in Redding California will have them.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 9/29/2009 3:03:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
barrie at look.ca writes:

I  apologise for sending out this missive but the Aston list is 
pretty small  - me and two others !   I am desperately looking for 
ball joints  for my '55 Aston with no luck.  I believe they may have 
been made by  Quintex Hazel but I cannot find them - may have the 
spelling wrong.   More likely they have gone the way of many other 
fine UK  establishments.  Is anyone out there familiar with  them........

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Wed Sep 30 02:45:55 2009
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 09:45:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ball Joints
In-Reply-To: <cfb.62e5e27c.37f3e070@aol.com>
References: <cfb.62e5e27c.37f3e070@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9f2527520909300145y4faed877m6a0a81cfb87d9db2@mail.gmail.com>

Quinton Hazell, with two 'l's.  Still very much around and making both OE
and aftermarket components for numerous manufacturers.

http://www9.qha.com/uk/default.htm

Whether they still make ball joints for 54-year-old Astons I have no idea...

Richard

2009/9/29 <WSpohn4 at aol.com>

> Barrie - it was Quinton Hazel. If you have a part number like QSJ  xxxx  I
> can see if they were the same as anything else.
>
> Kevin Kay Restorations in Redding California will have them.
>
> Bill
>
>
> In a message dated 9/29/2009 3:03:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> barrie at look.ca writes:
>
> I  apologise for sending out this missive but the Aston list is
> pretty small  - me and two others !   I am desperately looking for
> ball joints  for my '55 Aston with no luck.  I believe they may have
> been made by  Quintex Hazel but I cannot find them - may have the
> spelling wrong.   More likely they have gone the way of many other
> fine UK  establishments.  Is anyone out there familiar with  them........
>
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 30 03:20:33 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 10:20:33 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Ball Joints
References: <cfb.62e5e27c.37f3e070@aol.com>
	<9f2527520909300145y4faed877m6a0a81cfb87d9db2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <97FBC4540F48465BA340BCDD17D08C81@paul>

I don't think they have or had a very good reputation for clutches at least, 
compared to Borg & Beck.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> Quinton Hazell, with two 'l's.  Still very much around and making both OE
> and aftermarket components for numerous manufacturers.