[Mgs] getting MGA started

Paul Hunt paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
Sun Nov 22 04:17:56 MST 2009


Ignition?  Clip a timing lead to the coil lead and each plug lead in turn 
and crank, make sure the flashes are regular and consistent.  No flashes on 
the coil lead means no HT so check the LT.  Flashes on the coil lead but not 
on all plug leads means a cap and/or rotor problem.

Firing order?  1 3 4 2 *anti*-clockwise.

Timing?  With the timing light on No.1 plug lead and pointed at the timing 
marks check it shows a few degrees BTDC when cranking.  Note that the timing 
could still be 180 degrees out.

Rotor position?  Whilst the distributor can only be fully inserted to the 
engine in one position the distributor itself can be assembled 180 degrees 
out, and the drive gear can be fitted in as many positions as it has teeth 
but only one is correct.  With the plugs out put your thumb over No.1 plug 
hole and turn the engine in its normal direction until you can feel the 
compression lifting your thumb off.  That is the compression stroke prior to 
firing that cylinder.  When the piston gets to the top of the cylinder on 
that stroke that is TDC, see where the rotor is pointing, that position in 
the cap is where No.1 plug lead goes, and count the rest from there.

Mixture?  After cranking for a bit take the plugs out.  If they are wet it 
is flooded, especially if the choke has been out, which should be obvious 
from a strong fuel smell around the car unless outside on a windy day, crank 
with no choke and full throttle to clear it, but be prepared to release the 
throttle and half-pull the choke when it catches as it clears (as it 
should).  If the plugs are dry with no fuel smell there is no fuel getting 
through to the cylinders, they would normally have a strong fuel smell but 
not be wet if condition are right for firing.

Fuel pump?  With an original SU it will only click if it has been off for 
several minutes, and then only once, and only two or three times if switched 
off over-night unless the engine was hot.  Remove a fuel feed pipe from a 
carb and direct it into a container, turn on the ignition, and it should 
deliver a minimum of one Imperial pint per minute and in practise closer to 
two, in a steady series of pulses with minimum bubbles.

Float valves?  With the ignition off remove the float chamber lids and check 
they contain fuel.

Blocked jet pipes?  With the lids back on and with fuel in the float 
chambers blow gently in the vent/overflow ports and you should see fuel rise 
up out of the jets with the air-cleaners removed.

Carb set to initial settings?  Two full turns down from being flush with the 
bridge.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
>I am now at the point to start my car. I have gas to the carbs, spark to 
>the
> plugs and it will not kick off. 


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