[Mgs] On to the Next Challenge - Starter

Paul Hunt paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
Mon Jun 29 08:52:40 MDT 2009


So remind us exactly what is and isn't happening when you try to crank.

1.  Do you have any lights available, like headlights or the ignition warning
light?  If so what happens to those when you turn the key to start?  If they
dim right down then it is indeed battery and solenoid connections you should
be looking at.

2.  Does the relay click?  If not you need to check the voltages on the
white/red and black *terminals of the relay* with the key turned.  White/red
should show 12v and black should show 0v.  Is the relay connected correctly?
White/red and black should go to W1 or W2 (doesn't matter which way round they
go) for a rectangular relay, 85 and 86 if a later cylindrical or cube relay.

3.  Does the relay click but the solenoid not clunk?  If so you need to check
the voltages on the brown and brown/white at the relay with the key turned.
Both should show 12v.  They go to C1 and C2 on rectangular relays, 30 and 87
on the others (again doesn't matter which way round).

4.  If all that is OK you need to check the voltage on the spade terminals at
the solenoid.  If you only have one spade that should be the operate terminal,
with a brown/white wire, which should have 12v when you turn the key.  If
that's there then the solenoid is faulty.  If you have two terminals and two
wires on them try swapping those wires over.  The second terminal is the coil
boost terminal.  It *should* have a smaller spade, but rebuilt starters in
particular seem to have the same size on both.  If you only have one visible
spade make sure it isn't the coil boost spade and the solenoid operate
terminal hasn't snapped off and the stub is hiding under grime.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I installed the new relay but still hase the same result.


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