[Mgs] Adding relays to the headlight circuits

[Bob Howard]

Hi Bill,
   What worked perfectly for me was Rick Asley's diagram, which is
probably the way almost everyone does it anyway.
   I took the heavy supply wires, 12ga, from the starter terminal, up to
a circuit breaker for each wire, then to terminal 30 of each relay. The
control wire for the relay is the original wire from the switch high and
dipped beams,  blue/red for one blue/white for the other, that ran to
terminal 86 on each relay.  The blue/white wire and red/blue wire then go
out from relay terminal 86 to the lamp, and terminal 87 is the earth
terminal for the relay.
   My relays are well forward in the engine space, as far forward as can
be easily reached, the idea being that the small supply wires to the
headlamps would be as short as possible and the 12ga supply wires to the
relays would be long so as to minimise voltage drop.  The starter
terminal where the lead from the battery connects is the connection point
I used. It requires two large ring terminals, but  they were hardware
store items. 
   I would not take anything from the fuse block. They are OK for what
they do, but by using a circuit breaker for low beam and one for main
beams, you increase the likelihood of having one set of lights or the
other. From experience I can tell you that losing all lights  on a dark
twisty road is more excitement than one can imagine. 
  When you buy wire and fittings, you may see that there are two kinds of
the ring fittings. The cheaper, more available type, leaves some of the
crimp area exposed, but there is another type (all the ones I bought had
blue plastic but I don't know if that is significant or merely
decorative) but these have plastic insulation over all the crimp area.
  You will enjoy the additional brilliance, lights that work as intended.
Bob

 
On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 10:42:34 -0400 William Killeffer
<wkilleffer at comcast.net> writes:
> Hey everyone,
> 
> The new turn signal/dipswitch is finally here and installed, so now  
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