From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 13:28:01 2009
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 14:28:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Fluid Loss
In-Reply-To: <20090701.144052.4012.14.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20090701.144052.4012.14.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <48720d20907011228h15bac670tceac69cf9796e88b@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

Thanks for the response.

The master and aux cylinders have all been check. What hasn't has been
checked are the brakes under pressure, but even there we thought there
should be fluid showing.

The only thing to do is carry brake fluid and check often.

Jack



On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 1:27 PM, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

> Jack,
>   Have you found the leak?
>   My '72 leaked from the brake MC. Rebuilding myself didn't solve the
> problems (several efforts and several kits) nor did a new MC, followed by
> another new MC, followed by having the new MC sleeved & re-cupped by
> White Post. It still leaked, but only for a couple of weeks, after which
> it seemed to seal.
>   A telltale spot for leaking is in the rubber brake pedal pad---peel it
> back and see if there is fluid inside.
> Bob
>
>
>
> On Sun, 28 Jun 2009 19:22:44 -0500 Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
> writes:
> > The problem of brake fluid loss has come up several times. both in
> > the
> > Driveline, and  on the Healey list. In both cases the car had brake
> > boosters, and the suggested solution was the boosters.
> >
> > I have a 72 without brake boosters. The fluid keeps going down, and
> > needs
> > more from time to time. A more than competent mechanic has examined
> > the car
> > and says the brake cylinders and lines are fine, with no evidence of
> > leaking
> > from anything he has inspected.
> >
> > Obviously, I can't be leaking fluid! Any suggestions as to where to
> > look.
> >
> > Jack
> ____________________________________________________________
> Find Lawn Mowers
> Affordable & reliable quality lawn mowers
>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=pA6ePZBpZGj5aN4GA2FFfgAAJ1DvIkQ1NuH2F5a6iBKvAbENAAQAAAAFAAAAAArXIz4AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAB2ESAAAAAA==

From don at napanet.net  Wed Jul  1 22:50:06 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 2009 21:50:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] source for B mats and carpets?
In-Reply-To: <200907010300.n6130BYq012086@mail958c35.nsolutionszone.com>
References: <14D84DA0BF484F87AF734C5256F7A541@Three>
	<200907010300.n6130BYq012086@mail958c35.nsolutionszone.com>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090701214334.03635be0@pop.napanet.net>

>Hello MG folks,

I'm in process of having a '66 MGB roadster redone.  I wanted to obtain the 
closest to factory-spec floor coverings I could get.  Moss doesn't sell the 
OEM type rubber floor mats, but does have the rubber sill mats.  And I'm 
not sure if Moss carpet kits are all that good based on what I read and 
hear of people's experience with them.

Has anyone purchased the rubber sill and floor mats and OEM type carpeting 
(both black) that could recommend a supplier?

Thanks!

Don Scott

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  2 06:29:00 2009
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 08:29:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] source for B mats and carpets?
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090701214334.03635be0@pop.napanet.net>
References: <14D84DA0BF484F87AF734C5256F7A541@Three>
	<200907010300.n6130BYq012086@mail958c35.nsolutionszone.com> 
	<6.0.3.0.1.20090701214334.03635be0@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W2666FEBE3D7B3B87DE91E2BF2F0@phx.gbl>

Don,

I did the interior of my 70 B about 8 years ago and bought almost everything
from Brit-Tec.  I know they are a Moss reseller but their carpet kit was very
high quality, easy to install and still looks good after 8 years.

And if you call them you talk to the owner who seems only to happy to work
with you.

Tuck



> Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 21:50:06 -0700
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> From: don at napanet.net
> Subject: [Mgs] source for B mats and carpets?
>
> >Hello MG folks,
>
> I'm in process of having a '66 MGB roadster redone. I wanted to obtain the
> closest to factory-spec floor coverings I could get. Moss doesn't sell the
> OEM type rubber floor mats, but does have the rubber sill mats. And I'm
> not sure if Moss carpet kits are all that good based on what I read and
> hear of people's experience with them.
>
> Has anyone purchased the rubber sill and floor mats and OEM type carpeting
> (both black) that could recommend a supplier?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Don Scott
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul  2 07:47:08 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 09:47:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
Message-ID: <E1MMMdX-0002U0-B6@theta.look.ca>

Experience from the past shows that the list has some pretty savvy 
computer exponents so I ask the question.

Which slows down the computer the most; desk top icons or the quick 
start tray to the right of "Start" ???  In other words if I want 
speed, initial firing up and during use,  -  where do I put my icons?

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Thu Jul  2 08:02:55 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 10:02:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
In-Reply-To: <E1MMMdX-0002U0-B6@theta.look.ca>
References: <E1MMMdX-0002U0-B6@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <76664a460907020702m6958dceeq53c82110d88ef0d4@mail.gmail.com>

Neither really matter.  For quickest startup, you want to disable as
many start up programs as you can.  Run
"MSCONFIG" from start:run, click on the "Startup" tab and disable
anything you recognize as not needing.

Technically you can disable anything in the list as it will "check in"
on your next reboot and ask if everything is alright.

If there is something you don't recognize, google it and people will
be talking about it.

- Steve

On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 9:47 AM, Barrie Robinson<barrie at look.ca> wrote:
> Experience from the past shows that the list has some pretty savvy computer
> exponents so I ask the question.
>
> Which slows down the computer the most; desk top icons or the quick start
> tray to the right of "Start" ???  In other words if I want speed, initial
> firing up and during use,  -  where do I put my icons?
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Thu Jul  2 08:04:53 2009
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 15:04:53 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
References: <E1MMMdX-0002U0-B6@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <A338DBD0C76B45DC99495F6DC2192E34@ClassicCarWorld.local>

Hi Barrie, neither will make much difference to your start-up speed. Most 
icons on the desktop or on the quick launch are only shortcuts to the main 
programs.

The thing which impacts the most on the start-up process is the amount of 
system RAM you have in the computer and how many programs you have starting 
up automatically on start-up. Today Windows XP needs at least 1Gb of memory 
to run efficiently whereas Vista needs at least 2gb and preferably 3gb. Have 
a look in your task manager and this will show you how many resources 
(Programs) are running and how much memory is in use. Right click on the 
taskbar and select task manager from the menu. You may find that if you have 
512mb of RAM and windows is using 400mb after everything is loaded then 
either add more memory or stop some of the programs loading at start-up. 
Main things are MSN Messenger, Skype, camera software, scanners etc. The 
manufacturers all want you to run their software automatically even if you 
only use it once a month or less.

Main rule of thumb is to put in as much memory as you can as windows keeps 
growing with every update or service pack.

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay  Director  Classic-Car-World Ltd  32 Washingborough Road 
Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE  01522 888178 (Tel)  0870 705 9115 (fax) 
enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road  Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE. 
Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with 
company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
To: <mgb-v8 at autox.team.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 2:47 PM
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS


> Experience from the past shows that the list has some pretty savvy 
> computer exponents so I ask the question.
>
> Which slows down the computer the most; desk top icons or the quick start 
> tray to the right of "Start" ???  In other words if I want speed, initial 
> firing up and during use,  -  where do I put my icons?
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Jul  2 08:06:05 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 08:06:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
In-Reply-To: <E1MMMdX-0002U0-B6@theta.look.ca>
References: <E1MMMdX-0002U0-B6@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CF56@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Neither one - these are just shortcut icons mainly for show and/or
convenience and have minimal if any effect. What is slows things down
are programs that want to load into memory and run when your computer
starts up even if you aren't using them. Many are just annoyances,
Quicktime and RealPlayer being two primary ones that come to mind.
Generally they will also show up as icons in the far lower right hand
corner next to the clock display.

Go to Start=>Run and type in "msconfig" without the quotes. Then the
Startup tab - it will show you what starts up with the computer with the
option to uncheck them so they don't (but can be easily added back in).
It is advisable to check periodically to see what is in there as some
viruses also add themselves in to start up. If you need these programs,
you can also start them manually although they may want to re-enable
themselves in the startup without asking (i.e. Quicktime or at least it
used to - I keep it off my computer completely now).

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 7:47 AM
To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS

Experience from the past shows that the list has some pretty savvy
computer exponents so I ask the question.

Which slows down the computer the most; desk top icons or the quick
start tray to the right of "Start" ???  In other words if I want
speed, initial firing up and during use,  -  where do I put my icons?

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul  2 09:25:26 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 11:25:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - MY QUESTION
Message-ID: <E1MMOBw-0007R4-01@gamma.look.ca>

Heavens D'Murgatroyd !    What a fantastic response to my question on 
desk/tray icons question(s).  My many many thanks to those who 
replied and I am applying the advices within the hour.   As I said 
the response was amazing - and again, thank you, thank you!!!!!!!

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Jul  2 15:41:26 2009
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 17:41:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Fluid Loss
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1246557602.15772.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1246557602.15772.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <64CCA5E717B84A89A3653C3B36BDA8DE@EricJRussellPC>

And please don't drive behind me. 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> The only thing to do is carry brake fluid and check often.

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  2 16:29:16 2009
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 15:29:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
Message-ID: <165204.20900.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Thu, 7/2/09, Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:

> Experience from
the past shows that
> the list has some pretty savvy computer exponents so I
ask
> the question.
> 
> Which slows down the computer the most; desk top
icons or
> the quick start tray to the right of "Start" ???  In
> other words
if I want speed, initial firing up and during
> use,  -  where do I put my
icons?


Actually, you're asking the wrong question.
The answer to the
question you should be asking
is "Linux."   :-)

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Jul  2 17:35:42 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 17:35:42 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
In-Reply-To: <165204.20900.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <165204.20900.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F05A0004B@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

-----Original Message-----

Actually, you're asking the wrong question.
The answer to the
question you should be asking
is "Linux."   :-)

-------

To this, I would say - only if you don't want an answer.

I have dabbled quite a bit with Linux the past few years, ironically I
think it is mostly because of this list and a previous discussion that
mentioned Ubuntu a year or two ago. I have been impressed on some of the
recent advances with Linux and am now running one computer, two laptops
and some virtual machines with Linux, mostly using Debian (similar to
Ubuntu but I like it better). But invariably I end up fighting a bug
with some sort of a workaround or going to the Linux discussion groups
only to find no answers thus limiting how far I can get into Linux. In a
way, Linux is not too different from MGBs in that it can involve a lot
of dabbling or tuning, a catharsis of sorts.

Funny too that Barrie's question on increasing performance, I could
apply to my latest venture with Debian Lenny. Its running on a 64 bit
dual boot, 4 GB RAM with Win2008 Server as the other OS. Linux boots up
fine but programs are slow to load afterwards, i.e. IceWeasel (Firefox)
where I click on it a couple of times with no response then 10-15
seconds later, I get several windows pop up at the same time. Not so
with the Windows part. I had the same problem but worse with Mandrake
several years ago so I abandoned it (figured it was the computer I had).
Not so this time since I have a dual boot to compare. Is there a fix for
that, to get better responsiveness out of Linux?

Linux has some benefits but I would only recommend it to fairly computer
literate people with time on their hands to play with it (unless they
are doing the bare minimum of tasks, say web access only). It is pretty
cool you can run the Linux OS off a CD or even install the entire OS
with some floppies and a network connection. But at the end of the day,
I still need Windows when it comes to handling all my computer desires
and programs even though I have tried the other alternatives - Linux and
Mac. They are closing the gap admittedly but not quite.


David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
73 B

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 08:00:54 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 10:00:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F05A0004B@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <165204.20900.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F05A0004B@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <76664a460907030700l3c6cb53o8c3c5db686cb6203@mail.gmail.com>

Running EXT4 helps speed things up quite a bit.

Have you run HDPARM to optimize your disk access?

How big is your swap file?

On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 7:35 PM, Councill,
David<dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Actually, you're asking the wrong question.
> The answer to the
> question you should be asking
> is "Linux."   :-)
>
> -------
>
> To this, I would say - only if you don't want an answer.
>
> I have dabbled quite a bit with Linux the past few years, ironically I
> think it is mostly because of this list and a previous discussion that
> mentioned Ubuntu a year or two ago. I have been impressed on some of the
> recent advances with Linux and am now running one computer, two laptops
> and some virtual machines with Linux, mostly using Debian (similar to
> Ubuntu but I like it better). But invariably I end up fighting a bug
> with some sort of a workaround or going to the Linux discussion groups
> only to find no answers thus limiting how far I can get into Linux. In a
> way, Linux is not too different from MGBs in that it can involve a lot
> of dabbling or tuning, a catharsis of sorts.
>
> Funny too that Barrie's question on increasing performance, I could
> apply to my latest venture with Debian Lenny. Its running on a 64 bit
> dual boot, 4 GB RAM with Win2008 Server as the other OS. Linux boots up
> fine but programs are slow to load afterwards, i.e. IceWeasel (Firefox)
> where I click on it a couple of times with no response then 10-15
> seconds later, I get several windows pop up at the same time. Not so
> with the Windows part. I had the same problem but worse with Mandrake
> several years ago so I abandoned it (figured it was the computer I had).
> Not so this time since I have a dual boot to compare. Is there a fix for
> that, to get better responsiveness out of Linux?
>
> Linux has some benefits but I would only recommend it to fairly computer
> literate people with time on their hands to play with it (unless they
> are doing the bare minimum of tasks, say web access only). It is pretty
> cool you can run the Linux OS off a CD or even install the entire OS
> with some floppies and a network connection. But at the end of the day,
> I still need Windows when it comes to handling all my computer desires
> and programs even though I have tried the other alternatives - Linux and
> Mac. They are closing the gap admittedly but not quite.
>
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> 73 B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  3 09:37:23 2009
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 08:37:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
Message-ID: <154343.33365.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Fri, 7/3/09, Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com> wrote:

> > Linux has some benefits but I would only recommend it
> to fairly computer
> > literate people with time on their hands to play with
> it (unless they
> > are doing the bare minimum of tasks, say web access
> only). 

Funny, that's exactly my take on Windows.  There are some
applications that will only run on Windows, and I use it
for that.  Mototola Phone Tools is one, my 35mm film
scanner is another.  But when I boot up the machine in
Windows, I always disconnect it from the outside network.
Maybe it's because I've been a Unix sysadmin since the late
80s, and never touched a PC until about 1992, that I
just find PCs counter-intuitive and maddeningly complex
in the way they do what should be simple tasks (like
why, fergawdsake, do you have to access a menu, or 
use double keystrokes, to cut and paste text?!?!?).
And why did IBM decide to move the <CAP LOCK> key to the
place the <SCAPE> key always occupied?  Sure makes using
vi a pain with the butt with <ESCAPE> in northern Siberia.
To each his own.

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 09:51:30 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 11:51:30 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
In-Reply-To: <154343.33365.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <154343.33365.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460907030851w1d715b07v7511871f3b3a20d9@mail.gmail.com>

When the conversation topic heads towards "vi", its going to become a
religious argument.  Can't we talk about something more civil like
what kind of oil to use?

- Steve

On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 11:37 AM, David Breneman<david_breneman at yahoo.com>
wrote:
>
> --- On Fri, 7/3/09, Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> > Linux has some benefits but I would only recommend it
>> to fairly computer
>> > literate people with time on their hands to play with
>> it (unless they
>> > are doing the bare minimum of tasks, say web access
>> only).
>
> Funny, that's exactly my take on Windows.  There are some
> applications that will only run on Windows, and I use it
> for that.  Mototola Phone Tools is one, my 35mm film
> scanner is another.  But when I boot up the machine in
> Windows, I always disconnect it from the outside network.
> Maybe it's because I've been a Unix sysadmin since the late
> 80s, and never touched a PC until about 1992, that I
> just find PCs counter-intuitive and maddeningly complex
> in the way they do what should be simple tasks (like
> why, fergawdsake, do you have to access a menu, or
> use double keystrokes, to cut and paste text?!?!?).
> And why did IBM decide to move the <CAP LOCK> key to the
> place the <SCAPE> key always occupied?  Sure makes using
> vi a pain with the butt with <ESCAPE> in northern Siberia.
> To each his own.

From glenfel at sympatico.ca  Fri Jul  3 10:13:51 2009
From: glenfel at sympatico.ca (Glenfel)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:13:51 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
References: <154343.33365.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP12385047AC2625A2C3A0DBDE2C0@phx.gbl>

Yup - David says it all for Linux/Unix; he is a sysadmin.  For most of us,
the learning curve on Unix for neophytes is far too steep and, with no
centralized, standardized support, getting some drivers and/or apps
installed is an impossible process.  As always, if you love something and
have developed an intuitive feel for it, you can make it dance to any tune
you like.  Any system or process that sings to us will make us more
productive than one that doesn't.  I have friends who are Mac mavens who can
compute circles around us in graphic arts and, as the Mac is Unix-based (yes
 you can write Unix scripts for it!) a Mac user with experience can make it
work miracles.  However, as well as Mac's network with eachother, they don't
network well with other OS's, a notable limitation. Unix/Linux does network
well with other OS's and, surprisingly, in my experience, so does Windows,
with the notable exception of some advanced functions in Vista and what is
coming on line soon, Windows 7, known in less advanced circles as
Super-Vista", an oxymoron if there ever was one.

-------Original Message-------

From: David Breneman
Date: 7/3/2009 11:38:08 AM
To: DavidCouncill;  Steve
Cc: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net;  mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS

--- On Fri, 7/3/09, Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com> wrote:

> > Linux has some benefits but I would only recommend it
> to fairly computer
> > literate people with time on their hands to play with
> it (unless they
> > are doing the bare minimum of tasks, say web access
> only).

Funny, that's exactly my take on Windows.  There are some
applications that will only run on Windows, and I use it
for that.  Mototola Phone Tools is one, my 35mm film
scanner is another.  But when I boot up the machine in
Windows, I always disconnect it from the outside network.
Maybe it's because I've been a Unix sysadmin since the late
80s, and never touched a PC until about 1992, that I
just find PCs counter-intuitive and maddeningly complex
in the way they do what should be simple tasks (like
why, fergawdsake, do you have to access a menu, or
use double keystrokes, to cut and paste text?!?!?).
And why did IBM decide to move the <CAP LOCK> key to the
place the <SCAPE> key always occupied?  Sure makes using
vi a pain with the butt with <ESCAPE> in northern Siberia.
To each his own.
You are subscribed as glenfel at sympatico.ca


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of imstp_animation_butterflies_en_020908.gif]

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Fri Jul  3 10:36:14 2009
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 12:36:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
References: <154343.33365.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<76664a460907030851w1d715b07v7511871f3b3a20d9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C3B160112AE847FD83DD33ADB01D99AA@frankdcczr6l6k>

I went with Brad Penn!
Frank "Swamp Yankee" Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
To: "David Breneman" <david_breneman at yahoo.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS


> When the conversation topic heads towards "vi", its going to become a
> religious argument.  Can't we talk about something more civil like
> what kind of oil to use?
> 
> - Steve
> 
> On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 11:37 AM, David Breneman<david_breneman at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> --- On Fri, 7/3/09, Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> > Linux has some benefits but I would only recommend it
>>> to fairly computer
>>> > literate people with time on their hands to play with
>>> it (unless they
>>> > are doing the bare minimum of tasks, say web access
>>> only).
>>
>> Funny, that's exactly my take on Windows.  There are some
>> applications that will only run on Windows, and I use it
>> for that.  Mototola Phone Tools is one, my 35mm film
>> scanner is another.  But when I boot up the machine in
>> Windows, I always disconnect it from the outside network.
>> Maybe it's because I've been a Unix sysadmin since the late
>> 80s, and never touched a PC until about 1992, that I
>> just find PCs counter-intuitive and maddeningly complex
>> in the way they do what should be simple tasks (like
>> why, fergawdsake, do you have to access a menu, or
>> use double keystrokes, to cut and paste text?!?!?).
>> And why did IBM decide to move the <CAP LOCK> key to the
>> place the <SCAPE> key always occupied?  Sure makes using
>> vi a pain with the butt with <ESCAPE> in northern Siberia.
>> To each his own.

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul  3 12:43:55 2009
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 13:43:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mac networking
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1246644002.10206.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1246644002.10206.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DECEE02D-79D0-48DF-9AB7-AF0E848F98B2@sbcglobal.net>

I beg to differ with you on Mac networking.  You can network to about  
anything including SMB Windows file sharing.

Here is a link to apple's site that explains which settings to use  
under which operating system combinations.

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2959



On Jul 3, 2009, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> However, as well as Mac's network with eachother, they don't
> network well with other OS's, a notable limitation.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 13:08:05 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:08:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - COMPUTERS
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP12385047AC2625A2C3A0DBDE2C0@phx.gbl>
References: <154343.33365.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP12385047AC2625A2C3A0DBDE2C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <40b437200907031208y5229bc0fr5eb01e385d309be4@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 9:13 AM, Glenfel<glenfel at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Yup - David says it all for Linux/Unix; he is a sysadmin.  For most of us,
> the learning curve on Unix for neophytes is far too steep


My experience is radically different. I gave my daughter an IBM laptop
running Ubuntu Linux to take to university. She is not particularly
computer savvy, yet she finds the laptop easy to use. I have asked her
many times about any difficulties and she hasn't had any significant
problem either to learn how to use the laptop or with using it.

For my other daughter, I set up a dial-boot Linux/Windows machine.
Setting up Linux took a matter of about 1 hour, including installation
of all the applications. The Linux CD recognized and installed drivers
for all the hardware automatically. Setting up Windows took a couple
of days -- tracking down drivers, installing first Windows, then
Office and all the other utilities that she needs, then updating it.

The only reason to use Windows is for a few functions that are not
supported under Linux -- mobile phone software, for example. Later
iPods are not supported under Linux, so when her present iPod dies,
she will get an MP3 player from another manufacturer.

Simon

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  4 23:07:21 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 00:07:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE
Message-ID: <002801c9fd2e$bfe66480$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>

hi.

i'm going to look at an LE either today or tomorrow.  i've got clausinger's
book Original MGB ...  but it doesn't clearly state how to identify a real LE
from one that's been "built."

most of the LE stuff is available after market; is there a clearly
identifiable way to tell?

thanks!

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  5 06:49:59 2009
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 07:49:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE
References: <002801c9fd2e$bfe66480$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <EDBC441AC07E47C8B9E780A43B2793EB@Larry>

Oliver,

Yes, there is one way to tell if it was an original (North American) LE. 
All black cars in 79 and 80 were LEs and all LEs were black.  If the car was 
originally black, you have a winner.

I'm not quite sure why anybody would go to the time, trouble and expense of 
faking an LE as they aren't really worth much more, if any, that any other 
79 or 80 MGB.  I like them because I think black is the only color that 
looks OK with those monstrosities they call bumpers and the extra bits are 
not unattractive.  It certainly would not pay to buy all the pieces to 
convert a non-LE.

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr/limited.htm

Good luck on the LE,

Larry Daniels

79 LE (a real one)



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:07 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE


hi.

i'm going to look at an LE either today or tomorrow.  i've got clausinger's
book Original MGB ...  but it doesn't clearly state how to identify a real 
LE
from one that's been "built."

most of the LE stuff is available after market; is there a clearly
identifiable way to tell?

thanks!
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive 

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Sun Jul  5 14:11:07 2009
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 16:11:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE
References: <002801c9fd2e$bfe66480$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <32EF6081FBA84FB2A1D281ABEEC9DF19@frankdcczr6l6k>

Oliver; I have one of the original LEs. Ken Smith of NAMGBR has written the 
definitive description of the LE and it was available thru NAMGBR. I was 
able to get one right after he published it.
Frank Krajewski
1980LE
1964
1958 MGA
1991 Miata SE (oops)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 1:07 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MGB LE


> hi.
>
> i'm going to look at an LE either today or tomorrow.  i've got 
> clausinger's
> book Original MGB ...  but it doesn't clearly state how to identify a real 
> LE
> from one that's been "built."
>
> most of the LE stuff is available after market; is there a clearly
> identifiable way to tell?
>
> thanks!
> _______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 09:26:22 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:26:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] LE available
Message-ID: <000c01c9fe4e$4331a140$cf89a8c0@ranteer.local>

here in Dallas there is a guy selling an LE.  I went and looked at it.

paint is so-so
hasn't run in a decade or so
very minor rust bubbling (if it were on eBay there would be "no rust")
dash has one major crack and one minor crack
front tires 3 years old still have fuzzles
someone tried to shut the trunk with the support still up so its a tad bent
all pollution stuff gone
interior ok; seats need restuffing

contact me offline if you want more info or the guy's number.  a friend of the
seller contacted me; i don't know the guy; have no financial interest.  its a
decent car.  if you are looking for a rolling restoration candidate this is a
good one.   i am honestly just trying to find the car a good home.

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Mon Jul  6 22:17:27 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:17:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
Message-ID: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>

I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to what might
be causing it would be greatly appreciated:

I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel starting
about 65 mph.  Below that speed I feel nothing unusual.  The vibration is more
pronounced as I apply brakes and goes away as the car slows below 45 to 55
mph.  Tires are relatively new and I have rotated them (front to back) which
has no effect on the vibration.  Brakes are good (recently checked by dealer).
The vibration seems to be stronger on ruff road surfaces, almost disappearing
if I hit a very smooth patch of concrete on the freeway.  Shocks seem OK.  Car
is not bouncing up and down as it would with worn shocks.  There is no
vibration at slower speeds or when applying brakes at slower speeds.

I'm not really setup to work on the vehicle myself so I need to take it to a
dealer but I hate to go in without any idea as to what might be wrong.

Thanks for any ideas.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul  7 02:16:18 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 09:16:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
References: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>
Message-ID: <453A9CE86F24412D9CE3FDE8C63296B9@Three>

Sounds like a combination of wheel balance and disc run-out, plus possibly
some play/wear in the steering.  I had balance issues (wheel wobble from 68 to
85) on my V8 for years, rebalancing, swapping fronts and backs, and new tyres
made no difference.  Eventually I came to the conclusion that the balancing
process was making the wheels consistently unbalanced but all places seemed to
use the same type of machine.  Then I found a place that does 'road force
measurement'.  Not only does this apply a force to the tyre from a roller
during balancing and spin it faster, but the wheel is held on the machine by
the stud holes and not the centre hole, the centre hole being totally
inadequate for cars of the MGB era at least.  Note this involved a set of
plates and pins selected for each type of wheel and hole spacing, not the
universal gadget which consists of a hub and four (or five) arms that swing
out to match up with any size wheel which has also been tried and made no
difference.

The first thing they did was test the wheels as-is and found them way out,
which was promising.  After balancing as soon as I drove out of the place it
felt smoother even at low speeds.  I discounted that as wishful thinking but
so far it seems to be the case at higher speeds as well.  There is still a
slight trembling in the wheel, but I know I have some rack wear (almost
certainly due to the long term balance problems) and play in the column.

http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/4159T/index.htm purports to locate
one of these machines in the USA, Germany or Canada.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel
starting
  about 65 mph ...

From jayadonoghue at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 09:54:07 2009
From: jayadonoghue at gmail.com (James Donoghue)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:54:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] I'm back
Message-ID: <48ee332d0907070854o2ece64bdyc1125886a65150e6@mail.gmail.com>

OK, I know no one really noticed, but I've been less than active for quite a
while. My car has been cocooned in a wrapping of crap my sons brought to the
garage with them when they moved back in. But the cocoon is gone, and after
a few hours futzing with the fuel system the car is running strong again.
Also, I got shed of that craphouse AOL account and look forward to
undisturbed email from the brilliant people on this list.

Cheers!

Jay Donoghue
72 MGB-GT
66 Mustang
00 MB SLK230

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  7 12:05:40 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:05:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <48ee332d0907070854o2ece64bdyc1125886a65150e6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48ee332d0907070854o2ece64bdyc1125886a65150e6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <659892.60316.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Welcome back, Jay, glad to hear that your B is back out on the road....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: James Donoghue <jayadonoghue at gmail.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2009 11:54:07 AM
Subject: [Mgs] I'm back

OK, I know no one really noticed, but I've been less than active for quite a
while. My car has been cocooned in a wrapping of crap my sons brought to the
garage with them when they moved back in. But the cocoon is gone, and after
a few hours futzing with the fuel system the car is running strong again.
Also, I got shed of that craphouse AOL account and look forward to
undisturbed email from the brilliant people on this list.

Cheers!

Jay Donoghue
72 MGB-GT
66 Mustang
00 MB SLK230
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  7 11:59:44 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 10:59:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
In-Reply-To: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>
Message-ID: <C678DB20.21F08%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I might suggest a look at the wheel bearings.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/6/09 9:17 PM, Ron Fine at RonFineEsq at earthlink.net wrote:

> I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to what might
> be causing it would be greatly appreciated:
> 
> I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel starting
> about 65 mph.  Below that speed I feel nothing unusual.  The vibration is more
> pronounced as I apply brakes and goes away as the car slows below 45 to 55
> mph.  Tires are relatively new and I have rotated them (front to back) which
> has no effect on the vibration.  Brakes are good (recently checked by dealer).
> The vibration seems to be stronger on ruff road surfaces, almost disappearing
> if I hit a very smooth patch of concrete on the freeway.  Shocks seem OK.  Car
> is not bouncing up and down as it would with worn shocks.  There is no
> vibration at slower speeds or when applying brakes at slower speeds.
> 
> I'm not really setup to work on the vehicle myself so I need to take it to a
> dealer but I hate to go in without any idea as to what might be wrong.
> 
> Thanks for any ideas.
> 
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
> 66 MGB

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  7 12:46:48 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 11:46:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Single to dual master cylinder
Message-ID: <C678E628.21F12%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

After a recent tour (in my other car) that included 9000+ foot elevations
and 23% grades, I have begun to consider converting the 66 B to a dual
circuit master cylinder brake system. It is bad enough when the brakes fade
in mountain driving -- the complete absence of fluid pressure in the case of
a failure is a terrifying concept.

I was wondering if anyone had completed such a project, and what was
required in the way of plumbing. Certainly one approach would be to install
the complete MC, hard lines and safety switch from a 68-74.5 MGB. But
possibly not all of these components are strictly necessary. It also occurs
to me that there might be an alternative MC available that was not quite so
costly.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From Craig.Brownlee at oneok.com  Tue Jul  7 13:35:57 2009
From: Craig.Brownlee at oneok.com (Brownlee, Craig)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 14:35:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
Message-ID: <a9c801c9ff3a$107c2807$03420a0a@oneok.com>

I had a simmilar problem on my Nissan truck.  I purchased new tires that were
balanced at the tire shop 4 or 5 times rotated at least once without
correcting the vibration.  They blamed my truck for the problem.  I took them
to another shop that had the roadforce setup and found the tires way out of
balance.

Try another tire shop before you spend a lot of money.

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 3:44 AM
To: Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>; mgs at autox.team.net
<mgs at autox.team.net>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question

Sounds like a combination of wheel balance and disc run-out, plus possibly
some play/wear in the steering.  I had balance issues (wheel wobble from 68
to
85) on my V8 for years, rebalancing, swapping fronts and backs, and new tyres
made no difference.  Eventually I came to the conclusion that the balancing
process was making the wheels consistently unbalanced but all places seemed
to
use the same type of machine.  Then I found a place that does 'road force
measurement'.  Not only does this apply a force to the tyre from a roller
during balancing and spin it faster, but the wheel is held on the machine by
the stud holes and not the centre hole, the centre hole being totally
inadequate for cars of the MGB era at least.  Note this involved a set of
plates and pins selected for each type of wheel and hole spacing, not the
universal gadget which consists of a hub and four (or five) arms that swing
out to match up with any size wheel which has also been tried and made no
difference.

The first thing they did was test the wheels as-is and found them way out,
which was promising.  After balancing as soon as I drove out of the place it
felt smoother even at low speeds.  I discounted that as wishful thinking but
so far it seems to be the case at higher speeds as well.  There is still a
slight trembling in the wheel, but I know I have some rack wear (almost
certainly due to the long term balance problems) and play in the column.

http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/4159T/index.htm purports to locate
one of these machines in the USA, Germany or Canada.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel
starting
  about 65 mph ...
You are subscribed as craig.brownlee at oneok.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Jul  7 14:45:56 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 16:45:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
Message-ID: <20090707.164613.3696.0.MGBOB@juno.com>

   One thing you can check yourself is that the wheels are round.
   Reassured that their mounting and balancing of new tires was accurate
initially, and that their checking revealed no inbalance, and that the
tires were OK, etc etc, the source of my mysterious vibration was that
two of the wheels were bent, probably by the tire installers, as there
had been no vibration with the old tires.  Vibration was evident in the
steering wheel even when all wheels had been tried in all positions. 
   Raise the tire off the ground. Holding a pencil braced on a block,
turn the wheel slowly and check for out of plane and out of round, on
both inner and outer sections of the rim. Mine had been bent inward on
the inner rim. 
   Another thing to check is fluid level in the dampers. It could be that
a wheel would bounce a little even though the bumper-bounce test seems to
be OK.
Bob
 
On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:17:27 -0700 "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
writes:
> I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to 
> what might
> be causing it would be greatly appreciated:
> 
> I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel 
____________________________________________________________
Get your dream car or truck. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTLa8sqKh6bG5Jcb0kfqZBz5MCrVObgNAR1dZDapx6YlES99zBlUm0/

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  7 15:29:58 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 14:29:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
In-Reply-To: <20090707.164613.3696.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <C6790C66.21F2F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Doubt that you can check the fluid level in Macpherson struts... <g>.

[Honda minivan]



--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/7/09 1:45 PM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

>    One thing you can check yourself is that the wheels are round.
>    Reassured that their mounting and balancing of new tires was accurate
> initially, and that their checking revealed no inbalance, and that the
> tires were OK, etc etc, the source of my mysterious vibration was that
> two of the wheels were bent, probably by the tire installers, as there
> had been no vibration with the old tires.  Vibration was evident in the
> steering wheel even when all wheels had been tried in all positions.
>    Raise the tire off the ground. Holding a pencil braced on a block,
> turn the wheel slowly and check for out of plane and out of round, on
> both inner and outer sections of the rim. Mine had been bent inward on
> the inner rim. 
>    Another thing to check is fluid level in the dampers. It could be that
> a wheel would bounce a little even though the bumper-bounce test seems to
> be OK.
> Bob
>  
> On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:17:27 -0700 "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
> writes:
>> I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to
>> what might
>> be causing it would be greatly appreciated:
>> 
>> I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Tue Jul  7 16:41:22 2009
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 17:41:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
In-Reply-To: <C6790C66.21F2F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20090707.164613.3696.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<C6790C66.21F2F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000001c9ff54$13b90c80$3b2b2580$@net>

That's the first thing I thought...

Chad Cooper

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 4:30 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question

Doubt that you can check the fluid level in Macpherson struts... <g>.

[Honda minivan]



--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/7/09 1:45 PM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

>    One thing you can check yourself is that the wheels are round.
>    Reassured that their mounting and balancing of new tires was accurate
> initially, and that their checking revealed no inbalance, and that the
> tires were OK, etc etc, the source of my mysterious vibration was that
> two of the wheels were bent, probably by the tire installers, as there
> had been no vibration with the old tires.  Vibration was evident in the
> steering wheel even when all wheels had been tried in all positions.
>    Raise the tire off the ground. Holding a pencil braced on a block,
> turn the wheel slowly and check for out of plane and out of round, on
> both inner and outer sections of the rim. Mine had been bent inward on
> the inner rim. 
>    Another thing to check is fluid level in the dampers. It could be that
> a wheel would bounce a little even though the bumper-bounce test seems to
> be OK.
> Bob
>  
> On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:17:27 -0700 "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
> writes:
>> I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to
>> what might
>> be causing it would be greatly appreciated:
>> 
>> I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel
_______________________________________________

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 20:06:05 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 21:06:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
In-Reply-To: <000001c9ff54$13b90c80$3b2b2580$@net>
References: <20090707.164613.3696.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<C6790C66.21F2F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000001c9ff54$13b90c80$3b2b2580$@net>
Message-ID: <B2A7DD46-7CEA-4922-93D0-861ADE35732D@gmail.com>

You check the outside, if there is any on the outside, the strut is  
bad. :-)

On Jul 7, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Chad Cooper wrote:

> That's the first thing I thought...
>
> Chad Cooper
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 4:30 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
>
> Doubt that you can check the fluid level in Macpherson struts... <g>.
>
> [Honda minivan]

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul  8 02:45:22 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 09:45:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Single to dual master cylinder
References: <C678E628.21F12%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <D92A1F71DFA2476B8A8F9F2780B46D02@Three>

If it is the front circuit that has failed the fact the rear circuit is still
working will give you little more retardation than if you pulled on the
handbrake i.e. effectively useless if you only discover you have no front
brakes when you need them.  Only split calipers, or at the very least diagonal
systems, are any good in the event of a circuit failure.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----
  I was wondering if anyone had completed such a project ...

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Wed Jul  8 12:34:59 2009
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 14:34:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 67 B for sale
Message-ID: <FC5B6516DF414148845449BE18DFEDFE@frankdcczr6l6k>

I am not selling this car but a friend asked me to spread the word. It is
owned by the wife of a nationally renowned Jaguar restoration facility in
Rhode Island. It does not have od, but it is white, ww, new top not installed,
new tonneau, and  is in excellent condition as one would expect.  I have no
financial interest in this car, just helping a friend and fellow LBCer.  He
has been good to our car club and hosts tech sessions for us and has done
extensive work on my B although his speciality is Jaguar. He is asking $13K
and would like to find a good new owner. I do not know the mileage but he
tells me his wife has driven it less than 30 miles in the last 4 years hence
the sale.  Contact me  separately if you are interested and want contact info.
Frank Krajewski

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Wed Jul  8 17:47:48 2009
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 18:47:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
In-Reply-To: <B2A7DD46-7CEA-4922-93D0-861ADE35732D@gmail.com>
References: <20090707.164613.3696.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<C6790C66.21F2F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000001c9ff54$13b90c80$3b2b2580$@net>
	<B2A7DD46-7CEA-4922-93D0-861ADE35732D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001ca0026$85dfe2c0$919fa840$@net>

Kind of akin to letting the smoke out of your wiring, when you do that you
know the wiring is out of smoke and therefore bad.  ;-)

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Root [mailto:ptrmgb at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 9:06 PM
To: Chad Cooper
Cc: 'Max Heim'; 'MG List'
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question

You check the outside, if there is any on the outside, the strut is  
bad. :-)

On Jul 7, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Chad Cooper wrote:

> That's the first thing I thought...
>
> Chad Cooper
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 4:30 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
>
> Doubt that you can check the fluid level in Macpherson struts... <g>.
>
> [Honda minivan]

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Wed Jul  8 18:53:55 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 17:53:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Non Healey/MG question
Message-ID: <DB1AD251A3ED48E4B9B4F616070CF708@XPS400>

Thanks to everyone for the suggested fix to my Honda van front end vibration
problem.  I had the car in a dealer today and they claim that the front end
all checks out, including balancing the wheels but they did find two "broken"
motor mounts.  I assume that means the rubber inside the mount has separated.
I haven't driven the car yet but with a front wheel drive transverse
engine/transmission setup the engine would vibrate a lot with two broken
mounts and that would transfer to the wheels and steering wheel.  I'll find
out tomorrow when I pick up the car.  And  the good news was that it was
covered under warranty!

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  9 12:45:59 2009
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 18:45:59 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in Portugal
Message-ID: <mailman.14296.1247165252.20693.mgs@autox.team.net>

Hello Friends,

Long time, no type. 

We are visiting MG and Ferrari friend Rui Gigante in Portugal. Today we have seen SO many MGs undergoing restorations!  I am really impressed that these cars are being saved. 

Long live British cars!!!

Rick Lindsay, from Porto, Portugal
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 23:14:11 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 22:14:11 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Suggestions on repair shop in SF Bay Area?
Message-ID: <40b437200907092214tc4ba59ena3ecdc74ed22e4d2@mail.gmail.com>

Someone I know is looking for a shop to replace the top on a '67 (or
thereabouts)  MGB. Does anyone have any suggestions on a shop in the
San Francisco Bay Area  that would do this -- I already suggested
O'Connor Classics, but would like some alternatives.

Simon

From jayadonoghue at gmail.com  Fri Jul 10 11:42:08 2009
From: jayadonoghue at gmail.com (James Donoghue)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:42:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] I'm back, plus a question
Message-ID: <48ee332d0907101042x5bb12bd2j427f05598b565318@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Dan and Hans. The car is really running strong. Either I really
needed to clean out the fuel filter or I'd forgotten what a kick she is to
drive. I did stick an additive in the tank to prevent gloppy gas - can't
remember the name - and maybe that gives a boost.

On another matter, has anyone seen a discussion string about being unable to
get the MG list on AOL? It suddenly started up after, I then realized, I
hadn't seen any MG list mail for a while. That string is really picking up a
head of steam, but I get none of that here at gmail where I opened a new
account, and nothing I write here shows up there. I even wrote that list,
whoever they are, about this weirdness, and my own email didn't show up
there or here. I think Rod Serling is right around the corner, making snide
comments about my pathetic attempts to communucation.

Going home soon and putting new rebound straps on my rear axle, replacing
the old straps that tore like tissue. Kelvin swears these are much better
now.

Cheers,

Jay
72 MGB-GT
66 Mustang
00 MB SLK230

On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 2:05 PM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Welcome back, Jay, glad to hear that your B is back out on the road....
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* James Donoghue <jayadonoghue at gmail.com>
> *To:* mgs at autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 7, 2009 11:54:07 AM
> *Subject:* [Mgs] I'm back
>
> OK, I know no one really noticed, but I've been less than active for quite
> a
> while. My car has been cocooned in a wrapping of crap my sons brought to
> the
> garage with them when they moved back in. But the cocoon is gone, and after
> a few hours futzing with the fuel system the car is running strong again.
> Also, I got shed of that craphouse AOL account and look forward to
> undisturbed email from the brilliant people on this list.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Jay Donoghue
> 72 MGB-GT
> 66 Mustang
> 00 MB SLK230
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
Jay Donoghue
Silver Spring, MD, USA

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 10 13:11:43 2009
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:11:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Shifter Vibration
Message-ID: <162222.67075.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Fellow Listers;
I hope everyone has had the chance to enjoy their MG today.  Here in Phila PA
the weather is very nice (warm but low humidity).
I had a quick question about shifter vibration.  While accelerating in my '74
MGB-GT, the shifter seems to rattle somewhat, and its quite audible.  I have
checked and the correct springy-washers are on the shifter plate, and the
correct bushings is installed on the bottom of the shifter lever (on the ball
portion).
Has anyone else experienced this?  Is there any known fix?  Or is the trans on
its way out?
Thanks,Matt Milkevitch'74 MGB-GT

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 10 13:15:58 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:15:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Shifter Vibration
In-Reply-To: <162222.67075.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C67CE17E.2207E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I might suspect the tranny mount, or even the motor mounts.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/10/09 12:11 PM, Matthew Milkevitch at mmilkevitch at yahoo.com wrote:

> Fellow Listers;
> I hope everyone has had the chance to enjoy their MG today.  Here in Phila PA
> the weather is very nice (warm but low humidity).
> I had a quick question about shifter vibration.  While accelerating in my '74
> MGB-GT, the shifter seems to rattle somewhat, and its quite audible.  I have
> checked and the correct springy-washers are on the shifter plate, and the
> correct bushings is installed on the bottom of the shifter lever (on the ball
> portion).
> Has anyone else experienced this?  Is there any known fix?  Or is the trans on
> its way out?
> Thanks,Matt Milkevitch'74 MGB-GT

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 17:01:06 2009
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 19:01:06 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
Message-ID: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>

Hey....
Wait a cotton pickin' moment! All I'm getting is a bunch of stuff addressed 
 to aol.com members--But nothing that says its actually from or about: 
_mgs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:mgs at autox.team.net)  ...? To me this  indicates 
that the "Thinga-ma-job is still not working correctly.  So what  I've done is 
manually written: _mgs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:mgs at autox.team.net)  in the 
address box  so lets see what happens now...OK? Oh yeah plus I've done it all 
in an Arial 10  plain text format.
Albert Escalante 1977 MGB
Port Hueneme, CA
Earlier....  
In a message dated 7/10/2009 3:35:29 P.M.  Pacific Daylight Time, 
ZoboHerald at aol.com writes:
In a message dated  7/10/2009 12:36:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
TATERRY at aol.com  writes:
Suddenly this morning, AOL is working again for .team.net   Otherwise I 
would not have seen this message......also old messages have come  
through...... 
Terry in Oakland) 
 
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323031x1201367232/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 10 17:34:57 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 16:34:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

This just goes to demonstrate why AOL is almost completely useless as an
email platform, other than for communicating with (a dwindling number of)
other AOL members.

It doesn't conform to standards; it inexplicably blocks mailing lists,
corporate mail and personal mail at random; it inevitably scrambles
attachments, if it bothers to deliver them at all; and (worst of all) it
places ads at the bottom of your messages, even though you are paying for
the service.

Other than that, I guess it's OK...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

[It was terrible 15 years ago, and it hasn't improved -- it must be the only
thing on the internet that hasn't completely changed over that period.)



on 7/10/09 4:01 PM, Aeseeyou at aol.com at Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:

> Hey....
> Wait a cotton pickin' moment! All I'm getting is a bunch of stuff addressed
>  to aol.com members--But nothing that says its actually from or about:
> _mgs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:mgs at autox.team.net)  ...? To me this  indicates
> that the "Thinga-ma-job is still not working correctly.  So what  I've done is
> manually written: _mgs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:mgs at autox.team.net)  in the
> address box  so lets see what happens now...OK? Oh yeah plus I've done it all
> in an Arial 10  plain text format.
> Albert Escalante 1977 MGB
> Port Hueneme, CA
> Earlier....  
> In a message dated 7/10/2009 3:35:29 P.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,
> ZoboHerald at aol.com writes:
> In a message dated  7/10/2009 12:36:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> TATERRY at aol.com  writes:
> Suddenly this morning, AOL is working again for .team.net   Otherwise I
> would not have seen this message......also old messages have come
> through...... 
> Terry in Oakland)

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Fri Jul 10 19:20:58 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 09:20:58 +0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGB GT For Sale
Message-ID: <76664a460907101820u4b925d2arddc34e81f835b2f2@mail.gmail.com>

There is a bolt-on axle MGB GT CB for sale in La Plata, MD.  I'm not
affiliated with the seller in any way and personally don't want to do
business with him.  Its some old coot that is going out of business
and is really disenfranchised about selling the car.  He wants 300 for
the car, its complete and has no title.

Doesn't appear to be anything spectacular and has sat for over a year
that I know of without being started/moved.

The top side of the body looks to be in good condition.

I'm posting this because he wants to just give it to the crusher.  I
offered him $400 for it but he was to busy grumbling to accept it.  I
already have 2 GTs and I only want the rear axles.

If you are in need of a new baby, let me know and I'll put you in
touch with him.

If you have bolt on running gear from a GT I'm interested.

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Fri Jul 10 20:13:47 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 10:13:47 +0800
Subject: [Mgs] Shifter Vibration
In-Reply-To: <162222.67075.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <162222.67075.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460907101913m5898c575l9734e4691266fd3c@mail.gmail.com>

>> If you can hold the shift knob in your hand and the rattling stops,
>> suspect the drive shaft is out of balance.  Checking tire balance
>> might be easier...
>>
>> Based on what you mentioned, the shifter is fine.

On Sat, Jul 11, 2009 at 3:11 AM, Matthew
Milkevitch<mmilkevitch at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Fellow Listers;
> I hope everyone has had the chance to enjoy their MG today.  Here in Phila
PA
> the weather is very nice (warm but low humidity).
> I had a quick question about shifter vibration.  While accelerating in my
'74
> MGB-GT, the shifter seems to rattle somewhat, and its quite audible.  I
have
> checked and the correct springy-washers are on the shifter plate, and the
> correct bushings is installed on the bottom of the shifter lever (on the
ball
> portion).
> Has anyone else experienced this?  Is there any known fix?  Or is the trans
on
> its way out?
> Thanks,Matt Milkevitch'74 MGB-GT
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Fri Jul 10 20:21:58 2009
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 19:21:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Suggestions on repair shop in SF Bay Area?
Message-ID: <49F7EE26-6F31-44C2-ABCB-F23BCD886641@sonic.net>

"AA Top and Trim" in San Francisco is one of the oldest trim shops in  
the Bay Area. I don't know about MGs in particular, but they have done  
truly great work on just about any car top or interior that I've seen  
thrown at them. I've seen a lot of '50s Detroit Iron that they had to  
build custom tops for and some late model cars that they did custom  
work on. All exemplary.

--
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat Jul 11 06:44:40 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 14:44:40 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Shifter Vibration
References: <162222.67075.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<76664a460907101913m5898c575l9734e4691266fd3c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <604A2904FA6E4619BCCC164F8A5A6157@uw471de61b465c>

You also may suspect the front driveshaft UJ bearings being worn out...
I had this causing lots of vibrations.

Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
To: "Matthew Milkevitch" <mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 4:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shifter Vibration


>>> If you can hold the shift knob in your hand and the rattling stops,
>>> suspect the drive shaft is out of balance.  Checking tire balance
>>> might be easier...
>>>
>>> Based on what you mentioned, the shifter is fine.
>
> On Sat, Jul 11, 2009 at 3:11 AM, Matthew
> Milkevitch<mmilkevitch at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Fellow Listers;
>> I hope everyone has had the chance to enjoy their MG today.  Here in 
>> Phila
> PA
>> the weather is very nice (warm but low humidity).
>> I had a quick question about shifter vibration.  While accelerating in my
> '74
>> MGB-GT, the shifter seems to rattle somewhat, and its quite audible.  I
> have
>> checked and the correct springy-washers are on the shifter plate, and the
>> correct bushings is installed on the bottom of the shifter lever (on the
> ball
>> portion).
>> Has anyone else experienced this?  Is there any known fix?  Or is the 
>> trans
> on
>> its way out?
>> Thanks,Matt Milkevitch'74 MGB-GT 

From info at classictradespace.com  Sat Jul 11 06:51:40 2009
From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 13:51:40 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] mga roadster for sale
Message-ID: <715481557AE04004B23B0A4928CEF181@yourd65bbc6695>

If any one is interested we have a 1959 mga roadster for sale, white with a
black interior, solid body and frame, wire wheel car, complete and running,
not used for some time but a very good car.

From peter at nosimport.com  Sun Jul 12 12:43:56 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:43:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Free B hardtop, near Madison WI
Message-ID: <200907120944640.SM01584@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

 From Craigs list

http://madison.craigslist.org/pts/1265328135.html

Not me or mine

Peter C

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Jul 12 09:45:52 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:45:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] I'm back, plus a question
In-Reply-To: <48ee332d0907101042x5bb12bd2j427f05598b565318@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <48ee332d0907101042x5bb12bd2j427f05598b565318@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1MQ2PM-0001gE-E7@epsilon.look.ca>

Go to www.britcot.com and there you will see excellent rebound straps.


At 01:42 PM 7/10/2009, James Donoghue wrote:
>Thanks, Dan and Hans. The car is really running strong. Either I really
>needed to clean out the fuel filter or I'd forgotten what a kick she is to
>drive. I did stick an additive in the tank to prevent gloppy gas - can't
>remember the name - and maybe that gives a boost.
>
>On another matter, has anyone seen a discussion string about being unable to
>get the MG list on AOL? It suddenly started up after, I then realized, I
>hadn't seen any MG list mail for a while. That string is really picking up a
>head of steam, but I get none of that here at gmail where I opened a new
>account, and nothing I write here shows up there. I even wrote that list,
>whoever they are, about this weirdness, and my own email didn't show up
>there or here. I think Rod Serling is right around the corner, making snide
>comments about my pathetic attempts to communucation.
>
>Going home soon and putting new rebound straps on my rear axle, replacing
>the old straps that tore like tissue. Kelvin swears these are much better
>now.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Jay
>72 MGB-GT
>66 Mustang
>00 MB SLK230
>
>On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 2:05 PM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Welcome back, Jay, glad to hear that your B is back out on the road....
> >
> > Dan D
> > Central NJ USA
> > '76 MGB Tourer
> > '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> > NAMGBR #5-2328
> > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> > http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> > *From:* James Donoghue <jayadonoghue at gmail.com>
> > *To:* mgs at autox.team.net
> > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 7, 2009 11:54:07 AM
> > *Subject:* [Mgs] I'm back
> >
> > OK, I know no one really noticed, but I've been less than active for quite
> > a
> > while. My car has been cocooned in a wrapping of crap my sons brought to
> > the
> > garage with them when they moved back in. But the cocoon is gone, and after
> > a few hours futzing with the fuel system the car is running strong again.
> > Also, I got shed of that craphouse AOL account and look forward to
> > undisturbed email from the brilliant people on this list.
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> > Jay Donoghue
> > 72 MGB-GT
> > 66 Mustang
> > 00 MB SLK230
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >
> > You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
>
>
>
>--
>Jay Donoghue
>Silver Spring, MD, USA
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060  

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Jul 12 10:23:23 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 12:23:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>
	<C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca>

A while ago I could not banish AOL from my PC - It refused to be 
un-installed (we should call this "unstall"?).  I had to go into DOS 
to remove it.


At 07:34 PM 7/10/2009, Max Heim wrote:
>This just goes to demonstrate why AOL is almost completely useless as an
>email platform, other than for communicating with (a dwindling number of)
>other AOL members.
>
>It doesn't conform to standards; it inexplicably blocks mailing lists,
>corporate mail and personal mail at random; it inevitably scrambles
>attachments, if it bothers to deliver them at all; and (worst of all) it
>places ads at the bottom of your messages, even though you are paying for
>the service.
>
>Other than that, I guess it's OK...
>
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>[It was terrible 15 years ago, and it hasn't improved -- it must be the only
>thing on the internet that hasn't completely changed over that period.)
>
>
>
>on 7/10/09 4:01 PM, Aeseeyou at aol.com at Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hey....
> > Wait a cotton pickin' moment! All I'm getting is a bunch of stuff addressed
> >  to aol.com members--But nothing that says its actually from or about:
> > _mgs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:mgs at autox.team.net)  ...? To me 
> this  indicates
> > that the "Thinga-ma-job is still not working correctly.  So 
> what  I've done is
> > manually written: _mgs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:mgs at autox.team.net)  in the
> > address box  so lets see what happens now...OK? Oh yeah plus I've 
> done it all
> > in an Arial 10  plain text format.
> > Albert Escalante 1977 MGB
> > Port Hueneme, CA
> > Earlier....
> > In a message dated 7/10/2009 3:35:29 P.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,
> > ZoboHerald at aol.com writes:
> > In a message dated  7/10/2009 12:36:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > TATERRY at aol.com  writes:
> > Suddenly this morning, AOL is working again for .team.net   Otherwise I
> > would not have seen this message......also old messages have come
> > through......
> > Terry in Oakland)
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 12:26:07 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 13:26:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca>
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>
	<C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com>

Barrie Robinson wrote:
> A while ago I could not banish AOL from my PC - It refused to be 
> un-installed (we should call this "unstall"?).  I had to go into DOS 
> to remove it. 
My personal image of AOL is a very small, whiny dinosaur.

-The Roxter
--

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Sun Jul 12 17:20:17 2009
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:20:17 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] sputter
Message-ID: <00af01ca0347$5149e8c0$cb0ffa0a@D95Y3D91>

Hi all:

I have a 74 B that has a irritating problem. When at highway speed, not around town , I get this period loss of power, I thought fuel starvation or something related to ignition. It is especially prevalent if I am going up hill. It does happen on the flat and if I take my foot off the gas it sometimes helps when I apply the foot again. I changed the fuel filter thinking it might help and it did insofar as the frequency of these occurrences. I noted that it was much easier to blow through the new vs. old so I wonder about the fuel pump pressure. I don't have an SU but rather an after market low pressure pump as per the rating in our workshop manual...is there a method to test the pump?

Anything else it could be? Like I said I have fuel delivered to engine without trouble through all revs except if I am on highway with the revs at say 3k for a while and then try and accelerate-nothing. If going up hill I just lose power gradually to the point of needing to pull to the shoulder because I am a hazard...


Any helpful thoughts?  


Malcolm

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 12 18:23:52 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 17:23:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Related to No Start Condition....
Message-ID: <894697.44549.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I was double-checking the ground strap (which on my car is at the rear transmission mount). One of the nuts on the trans mount
wasn't tightened all the way, so that end of the ground cable can move around a bit. The nut won't tighten beyond a certain point,
so I am wondering if I have the wrong size on there. I needed a 1/2 inch socket to remove it. The nut on the other side seems to be
a 9/16" inch - it's very difficult to tell because even with the 'crossmember modification' done, I can't get an extension on it to check
for sure. Anyone know what size nut that is really supposed to be? It's the nut that goes on the actual rubber mount for the transmission.

Is it possible to put the ground strap in another place? Can I move the end and just attach it directly to the crossmember? Or can I
use a strap up front somewhere?

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Sun Jul 12 18:37:02 2009
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:37:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] sputter
In-Reply-To: <00af01ca0347$5149e8c0$cb0ffa0a@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAECBCEAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Hello Malcolm,

Can we assume that your engine is in generally good condition (it passes
compression and vacuum tests) and is in a proper state of tune (with
distributor advance & retard systems OK at all rpm and carburetors
carburating well at all rpm.)

You can test both volume and pressure of the fuel pump. I think the output
volume should be about a pint per minute.

You mentioned that this occurs during highway driving. Does it occur after a
few minutes of such driving, or does it take an hour or more? Is the car
running overly warm when this happens?

Does your car have the charcoal canister? It may be blocked with fouling. I
believe this can cause fuel vapors to build up over time and cause fuel
delivery problems. Test this by disconnecting the hoses temporarily. If it
is a problem, it is very easy to take apart and rebuild.

Our friend Paul Hunt would likely remind us that a systematic approach
should be used to identify that cause of the problem, saving time finding
the cause and money buying parts not needed. Paul is entirely correct, he
usually is.

Going up hill produces more load as the car fights gravity going up the
hill. The power fade being more prevalent in this situation sounds more like
a carburation or fuel delivery issue more than an ignition issue, unless
your dizzy springs are weak and your total advance is very low. Could the
pistons in the carbs be sticking?

Others chime in please!

Eric in Florida
'74 MGB

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Malcolm Jeffcock
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 7:20 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] sputter


Hi all:

I have a 74 B that has a irritating problem. When at highway speed, not
around town , I get this period loss of power, I thought fuel starvation or
something related to ignition. It is especially prevalent if I am going up
hill. It does happen on the flat and if I take my foot off the gas it
sometimes helps when I apply the foot again. I changed the fuel filter
thinking it might help and it did insofar as the frequency of these
occurrences. I noted that it was much easier to blow through the new vs. old
so I wonder about the fuel pump pressure. I don't have an SU but rather an
after market low pressure pump as per the rating in our workshop manual...is
there a method to test the pump?

Anything else it could be? Like I said I have fuel delivered to engine
without trouble through all revs except if I am on highway with the revs at
say 3k for a while and then try and accelerate-nothing. If going up hill I
just lose power gradually to the point of needing to pull to the shoulder
because I am a hazard...


Any helpful thoughts?


Malcolm
You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2233 - Release Date: 07/12/09
08:20:00

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Sun Jul 12 18:47:41 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:47:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Related to No Start Condition....
In-Reply-To: <894697.44549.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <894697.44549.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46CB5BDA-C213-415E-BC4C-C4A50BA5473B@trebelhorn.com>

The original ground strap on my '70 was located at one of the front  
motor mounts.  I added a ground strap that goes from the body side of  
the right front motor mount to the upper bolt holding the starter in  
place.  I know for sure that the starter motor is grounded!

Fixing the grounds is always a good idea, and you can't over-ground  
anything, that's for sure.

Good luck tracking it down
Matt


On 12 Jul, 2009, at 8:23 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> I was double-checking the ground strap (which on my car is at the  
> rear transmission mount). One of the nuts on the trans mount
> wasn't tightened all the way, so that end of the ground cable can  
> move around a bit. The nut won't tighten beyond a certain point,
> so I am wondering if I have the wrong size on there. I needed a 1/2  
> inch socket to remove it. The nut on the other side seems to be
> a 9/16" inch - it's very difficult to tell because even with the  
> 'crossmember modification' done, I can't get an extension on it to  
> check
> for sure. Anyone know what size nut that is really supposed to be?  
> It's the nut that goes on the actual rubber mount for the  
> transmission.
>
> Is it possible to put the ground strap in another place? Can I move  
> the end and just attach it directly to the crossmember? Or can I
> use a strap up front somewhere?
>
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as matt.lists at trebelhorn.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 13 02:46:30 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:46:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Shifter Vibration
References: <162222.67075.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FE6EDD64ED984B9EA29DE26180F1D327@Three>

Haven't heard of this for a while but some gear knobs were prone to it as I
recall.  Should be easy to determine by holding the lever.  Are you sure the
nylon bush on the little ball at the bottom of the lever is sound?  After
replacing mine there was no slop in the lever at all when in gear.

That is if the gear lever is *buzzing*, deeper vibrations could well be from
propshaft UJs and balance, front road wheels should be felt at the steering
wheel long before anywhere else.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  I had a quick question about shifter vibration.  While accelerating in my
'74
  MGB-GT, the shifter seems to rattle somewhat, and its quite audible.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 13 04:50:21 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:50:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] sputter
References: <00af01ca0347$5149e8c0$cb0ffa0a@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <47D6888A51004C28B3E45D071FBA53B0@Three>

Ignition problems often show up as fluttering of the tach needle if it is the
LT side e.g. coil, points or connections.  If that is steady with actual
engine speed then ignition HT or fuel.  A misfire under load could be either
HT or fuel, but if HT it will happen immediately, if fuel it will only happen
after a delay i.e. when the float chambers get low if it is a problem with the
supply i.e. pump.  With the original SU pump it is useful to switch off when a
misfire or cut-out occurs, then when the car has come to a stop and you can
hear the pump switch on again.  If you hear the pump chattering away like
billy-oh then it *was* fuel starvation.  If not, and the car then proceeds to
start and drive normally, then probably HT.  The pump should deliver a minimum
of one Imperial pint per minute and in practice closer to two, with a pipe
removed from a carb and directed into a container and the ignition turned on.
An SU pump should operate with a steady series of pulses and minimal bubbles.
HT problems will often show themselves if you rev the engine hard (not massive
revs, but full throttle for a short pulse) with a timing light connected to
the coil lead and each plug lead in turn.  If the flashes stop or get erratic
with a misfire then it is HT.  If on one or more plug leads but not the coil
lead then it will be cap or rotor, if on the coil lead as well then the coil
or other ignition problem.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  I have a 74 B that has a irritating problem. When at highway speed, not
around town , I get this period loss of power, ...

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Mon Jul 13 07:44:13 2009
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:44:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com>
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>
	<C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca> <4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090713094413.zlz074tywwws0808@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

Sounds similar to itunes.  After uninstalling it on my PC, I had to go  
into the register, search for the 15-20 references and individually  
delete them. Perhaps you should go into the register and search for AOL?





Bill Saidel
BMCSNJ
'76B


Quoting The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com>:

> Barrie Robinson wrote:
>> A while ago I could not banish AOL from my PC - It refused to be   
>> un-installed (we should call this "unstall"?).  I had to go into   
>> DOS to remove it.
> My personal image of AOL is a very small, whiny dinosaur.
>
> -The Roxter
> --
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as saidel at camden.rutgers.edu
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 07:52:59 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:52:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <20090713094413.zlz074tywwws0808@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>
	<C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca> <4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com>
	<20090713094413.zlz074tywwws0808@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <C903DABB-7829-4551-9D9A-5517E6038741@gmail.com>

The Registry is the main reason for Windows poor reliability and  
performance.

When you uninstall ANYTHING that has written to the registry, those  
entries stay.

That's why Windows gets slower over time, because that thing is  
getting bigger and searching in it takes longer.

Don't blame the App for the OS's failings.

On Jul 13, 2009, at 8:44 AM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:

> Sounds similar to itunes.  After uninstalling it on my PC, I had to  
> go into the register, search for the 15-20 references and  
> individually delete them. Perhaps you should go into the register  
> and search for AOL?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Saidel
> BMCSNJ
> '76B

From thgun at comporium.net  Mon Jul 13 09:03:08 2009
From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:03:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
Message-ID: <20090713110308.DJR83116@ms1.comporium.net>

I have talked to a few people about this and I am still not clear as to how to go about fixing my problem. I purchased a redone head. Now a few of the valves are too tight to adjust. Can I use shims all the way across to raise the rocker assembly? If so where can I get them? Any other tips.
Thanks for the help,
Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA 1500 rst

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Jul 13 09:42:17 2009
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:42:17 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
Message-ID: <c8b.4cd653d3.378cafd9@aol.com>

If the valves are not adjustable with the adjusters all the way in, then  
they either have serious valve seat recession, or too long stems.  One  
doesn't like to remove material from the stellited tips as you can get into  
softer material in the stem that will wear.  Sounds like the head may need  new 
seats or new valves or both.
 
I suppose you could shim the pedestals, but I hate to do that to cure a  
problem. like that.
 
Bill
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/13/2009 8:03:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
thgun at comporium.net writes:

I have  talked to a few people about this and I am still not clear as to 
how to go  about fixing my problem. I purchased a redone head. Now a few of 
the valves  are too tight to adjust. Can I use shims all the way across to 
raise the  rocker assembly? If so where can I get them? Any other  tips.

From kger.mg at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 10:50:08 2009
From: kger.mg at gmail.com (Keith G.)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:50:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
Message-ID: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>

So my '79 B is sitting up on jackstands while a summer marches on.  I'm
frustrated with the brakes, being unable to get fluid to the rear bleed
valves.

The background is this:  I finally got around to replacing the rear brake
cylinders, as one was leaking.  After getting that done, I was able to bleed
the brakes to get good pressure in the pedal and good, clear fluid coming
out of each valve.  Feeling good about that, I moved on to other matters
that needed tending to.

The next time I tried he brake pedal, it went to the floor.  Any subsequent
bleed attempts have failed.  I can get great pressure to the fronts, but
nothing good is happening at the rear.  A replacement master cylinder helped
only the depletion of my dollars.  Someone I talked to suggested I just
remove the valves and let gravity do its thing to see if any fluid leaks
out.  Well, not in this case.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.  I want to get this thing back on the
road this summer if possible.  Our summers here in the upper American
midwest are entirely too short.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 13 10:59:27 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:59:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
In-Reply-To: <c8b.4cd653d3.378cafd9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C680B5FF.220F9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

As he says it is a redone head, I was assuming that the valve seats were OK,
or he would have noticed. Incorrect valves would be a possibility, assuming
that a compatible valve with slightly longer stem even exists.

My MGB head had shims on the rocker brackets from the factory, so it's not
like that is an outrageous suggestion. But the shims were only maybe 0.005"
to 0.010", and that would hardly seem enough difference to cause one to run
out of valve adjustment.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/13/09 8:42 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

> If the valves are not adjustable with the adjusters all the way in, then
> they either have serious valve seat recession, or too long stems.  One
> doesn't like to remove material from the stellited tips as you can get into
> softer material in the stem that will wear.  Sounds like the head may need
> new 
> seats or new valves or both.
>  
> I suppose you could shim the pedestals, but I hate to do that to cure a
> problem. like that.
>  
> Bill
>  
>  
>  
>  
> In a message dated 7/13/2009 8:03:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> thgun at comporium.net writes:
> 
> I have  talked to a few people about this and I am still not clear as to
> how to go  about fixing my problem. I purchased a redone head. Now a few of
> the valves  are too tight to adjust. Can I use shims all the way across to
> raise the  rocker assembly? If so where can I get them? Any other  tips.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 13 10:53:18 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:53:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
In-Reply-To: <20090713110308.DJR83116@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <C680B48E.220F7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Do you know if the rebuilder milled the bottom surface, either to make it
flat or to raise compression? Because that's what I am suspecting at this
point. They milled off so much material that the pushrods are now too long.

But the alternate explanation, missing rocker bracket shims, could still be
the case, especially if the tight valves are on cylinders #2 and #3. The
Moss MGB catalog shows #460-255 rocker bracket shim, for 18GB motors. I
don't have an MGA catalog.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/13/09 8:03 AM, thgun at comporium.net at thgun at comporium.net wrote:

> I have talked to a few people about this and I am still not clear as to how to
> go about fixing my problem. I purchased a redone head. Now a few of the valves
> are too tight to adjust. Can I use shims all the way across to raise the
> rocker assembly? If so where can I get them? Any other tips.
> Thanks for the help,
> Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA 1500 rst

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Jul 13 11:02:57 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:02:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
In-Reply-To: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
References: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CF8B@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I had a hell of a time getting the rear brakes to bleed on my 72B. It
turned out I had a small pinhole on the metal tube that runs over the
rear axle. It didn't leak (just a seep around the hole) but it pulled in
air.

What I ended up doing was backtracking the lines to see where there was
brake fluid. There are a lot of areas where you could have a plug or a
leak (fluid and/or air). On my 72B, there is a place in the rear of the
car where the metal tube from the master cylinder ends in a rubber tube
which joins that tube to the tubes that feed both rear lines. I took
that apart to see if brake fluid came out there and then worked my way
back. I hope that makes sense. You could have a collapsed brake line or
a plug. Maybe even a problem still with the master cylinder. Or the
wheel cylinders have a leak pulling air into the system.

You just need to check the system/lines at certain points to see where
the fluid flows and where it does not.

I also now use an Eezi-Bleed system so I don't have to rely on a helper.


David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
73 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Keith G.
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 10:50 AM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations

So my '79 B is sitting up on jackstands while a summer marches on.  I'm
frustrated with the brakes, being unable to get fluid to the rear bleed
valves.

The background is this:  I finally got around to replacing the rear
brake
cylinders, as one was leaking.  After getting that done, I was able to
bleed
the brakes to get good pressure in the pedal and good, clear fluid
coming
out of each valve.  Feeling good about that, I moved on to other matters
that needed tending to.

The next time I tried he brake pedal, it went to the floor.  Any
subsequent
bleed attempts have failed.  I can get great pressure to the fronts, but
nothing good is happening at the rear.  A replacement master cylinder
helped
only the depletion of my dollars.  Someone I talked to suggested I just
remove the valves and let gravity do its thing to see if any fluid leaks
out.  Well, not in this case.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.  I want to get this thing back on
the
road this summer if possible.  Our summers here in the upper American
midwest are entirely too short.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 13 11:05:09 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:05:09 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
In-Reply-To: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C680B755.220FC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Are you getting any fluid to the rear system at all? Try undoing the hard
line to one of the rear cylinders.

Faulty rear cylinders right out of the box is a real possibility, these
days.

Has the car been on a flatbed tow recently? It can happen that when the
operator secures a chain or strap around the rear axle, it flattens the hard
line, preventing any fluid flow. Solution is to replace the steel brake
line.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/13/09 9:50 AM, Keith G. at kger.mg at gmail.com wrote:

> So my '79 B is sitting up on jackstands while a summer marches on.  I'm
> frustrated with the brakes, being unable to get fluid to the rear bleed
> valves.
> 
> The background is this:  I finally got around to replacing the rear brake
> cylinders, as one was leaking.  After getting that done, I was able to bleed
> the brakes to get good pressure in the pedal and good, clear fluid coming
> out of each valve.  Feeling good about that, I moved on to other matters
> that needed tending to.
> 
> The next time I tried he brake pedal, it went to the floor.  Any subsequent
> bleed attempts have failed.  I can get great pressure to the fronts, but
> nothing good is happening at the rear.  A replacement master cylinder helped
> only the depletion of my dollars.  Someone I talked to suggested I just
> remove the valves and let gravity do its thing to see if any fluid leaks
> out.  Well, not in this case.
> 
> Any ideas would be much appreciated.  I want to get this thing back on the
> road this summer if possible.  Our summers here in the upper American
> midwest are entirely too short.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 11:27:44 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:27:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] sputter
In-Reply-To: <00af01ca0347$5149e8c0$cb0ffa0a@D95Y3D91>
References: <00af01ca0347$5149e8c0$cb0ffa0a@D95Y3D91>
Message-ID: <4A5B6E90.4080500@gmail.com>

Malcolm Jeffcock wrote:
> Hi all:
>
> I have a 74 B that has a irritating problem. When at highway speed, not around town , I get this period loss of power, I thought fuel starvation or something related to ignition. It is especially prevalent if I am going up hill. It does happen on the flat and if I take my foot off the gas it sometimes helps when I apply the foot again. I changed the fuel filter thinking it might help and it did insofar as the frequency of these occurrences. I noted that it was much easier to blow through the new vs. old so I wonder about the fuel pump pressure. I don't have an SU but rather an after market low pressure pump as per the rating in our workshop manual...is there a method to test the pump?
>
> Anything else it could be? Like I said I have fuel delivered to engine without trouble through all revs except if I am on highway with the revs at say 3k for a while and then try and accelerate-nothing. If going up hill I just lose power gradually to the point of needing to pull to the shoulder because I am a hazard...
This just might be high voltage breakdown rather than carburetion. I have had something similar a few times in my life, with different cars. Sometimes it was a failing coil. That's easy to determine, if you have a spare coil around. A couple of times, with LBC's, it was the little ground wire in the distributor breaking from years of movement. The harder the engine is pulling, the more juice it takes to fire the plugs, so the car might cruise just fine, but start to fail as more power is needed.

-The Roxter
--

From johnlink1 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 12:08:00 2009
From: johnlink1 at comcast.net (John Linkosky)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:08:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sputter
Message-ID: <000501ca03e4$dc5f9980$951ecc80$@net>

I have been having the same problem with my 72 roadster, HIF carbs, over the
last month. I first noticed the loss of power going up hill at speed on an
interstate highway, checked the fuel filter and discovered it was full of
rust. I ordered a new tank and replaced it along with a new fuel filter. The
symptoms returned. I switched out fuel pumps and still no joy as the car
continues to periodically sputter and lose power going up long grades. I
think there must be some debris that is blocking the fuel intake in the bowl
of the carb, or the float occasionally gets hung up in the closed position.
I will find out tonight as I plan to disassemble the carbs to look for the
cause. I will report back if I find anything. John

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Mon Jul 13 12:27:35 2009
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:27:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sputter
In-Reply-To: <000501ca03e4$dc5f9980$951ecc80$@net>
References: <000501ca03e4$dc5f9980$951ecc80$@net>
Message-ID: <018A4013-9F6A-4E25-900F-9B5F302950C8@trebelhorn.com>

You know, I had a similar problem, years ago, that ended up being  
water in the fuel.  A bottle of "gas line drier" (alcohol) let the  
water absorb into the gasoline, and no problem.  I suppose with the  
blends you get at the pump these days, adding alcohol would be  
redundant... but you never know.

But yeah, sediment at the bottom of the carb would keep gasoline out  
of the motor (just like water would do) but would be harder to clean  
out.

Matt

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Jul 13 09:03:09 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:03:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <C903DABB-7829-4551-9D9A-5517E6038741@gmail.com>
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>
	<C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca> <4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com>
	<20090713094413.zlz074tywwws0808@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
	<C903DABB-7829-4551-9D9A-5517E6038741@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1MQR9x-0006WK-GR@delta.look.ca>

Paul,

Is there no absolute efficient registry cleaner?   I use Glary and EasyClean

At 09:52 AM 7/13/2009, Paul Root wrote:
>The Registry is the main reason for Windows poor reliability and
>performance.
>
>When you uninstall ANYTHING that has written to the registry, those
>entries stay.
>
>That's why Windows gets slower over time, because that thing is
>getting bigger and searching in it takes longer.
>
>Don't blame the App for the OS's failings.
>
>On Jul 13, 2009, at 8:44 AM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:
>
>>Sounds similar to itunes.  After uninstalling it on my PC, I had to
>>go into the register, search for the 15-20 references and
>>individually delete them. Perhaps you should go into the register
>>and search for AOL?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Bill Saidel
>>BMCSNJ
>>'76B
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 13:39:54 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:39:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <E1MQR9x-0006WK-GR@delta.look.ca>
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com>
	<C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca> <4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com>
	<20090713094413.zlz074tywwws0808@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
	<C903DABB-7829-4551-9D9A-5517E6038741@gmail.com>
	<E1MQR9x-0006WK-GR@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <5C3D61A7-172A-4372-9B57-FB1495C88548@gmail.com>

How does it know what to clean?

I suppose they help.

On Jul 13, 2009, at 10:03 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote:

> Paul,
>
> Is there no absolute efficient registry cleaner?   I use Glary and  
> EasyClean
>
> At 09:52 AM 7/13/2009, Paul Root wrote:
>> The Registry is the main reason for Windows poor reliability and
>> performance.
>>
>> When you uninstall ANYTHING that has written to the registry, those
>> entries stay.
>>
>> That's why Windows gets slower over time, because that thing is
>> getting bigger and searching in it takes longer.
>>
>> Don't blame the App for the OS's failings.
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2009, at 8:44 AM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:
>>
>>> Sounds similar to itunes.  After uninstalling it on my PC, I had to
>>> go into the register, search for the 15-20 references and
>>> individually delete them. Perhaps you should go into the register
>>> and search for AOL?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Saidel
>>> BMCSNJ
>>> '76B
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>
>> You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>>
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Regards
>
> Barrie
> (705) 721-9060

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Jul 13 14:44:28 2009
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:44:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
In-Reply-To: <20090713110308.DJR83116@ms1.comporium.net>
References: <20090713110308.DJR83116@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <20090713230717.30487187649@autox.team.net>

At 11:03 AM 7/13/2009 -0400, Tom Gunderson (thgun at comporium.net) wrote:
>.... I purchased a redone head. Now a few of the valves are too 
>tight to adjust. Can I use shims all the way across to raise the 
>rocker assembly? If so where can I get them? Any other tips.
>....

The condition is not normal, so something is wrong there.  Assuming 
you have the right pushrods, either the head has been milled 
substantially or the valve seats have been cut too deep into the head 
so the valves are riding too high.  It would be more convenient for 
measurement and inspection if the head was off, but maybe some 
investigation can be done without removing it.

Original head thickness was 3.187".  How creative are you at 
measuring the vertical distance from top to bottom of head in 
situ?  That dimension would tell you if the head was milled too much.

Next is to measure the height of the valve stems from top of head.  I 
just measured on my spare engine and found 1.600" plus or minus a 
smidge from valve to valve.  This one had new hard seats and new 
valves installed not too many miles earlier, meaning the valves 
should be very close to as-new height.  There is plenty of rocker 
adjustment from there, so I could believe that stem height of 1.625" 
should be an easy accommodation for the adjusters.  If your head has 
the valve seats cut abnormally deep for clean up the stems would sit higher.

If head thickness and valve stem height are in the ballpark, then 
maybe the pushrods are too long.  If you re-used original pushrods 
that should not be a problem.  I suppose it would be very unusual for 
anyone to ever mill the rocker pedestals to make the rocker shaft lower.

Moss Motors does sell the rocker pedestal shims, but they are not 
originally intended for that purpose.  Later engines had 0.010" shims 
under #2 & #3 pedestals only to put a small bending preload on the 
rocker shaft to keep the shaft from wiggling about in the pedestal 
bores.  None of my engines for decades have ever had these shims, and 
I have never seen any detrimental effect from their absence.  You can 
could install some of these shims under the pedestals to open up the 
rocker clearance, but it seems like treating the symptom rather than 
curing the disease.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Mon Jul 13 17:17:51 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 17:17:51 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
In-Reply-To: <5C3D61A7-172A-4372-9B57-FB1495C88548@gmail.com>
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com><C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca>
	<4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com><20090713094413.zlz074tywwws0808@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu><C903DABB-7829-4551-9D9A-5517E6038741@gmail.com><E1MQR9x-0006WK-GR@delta.look.ca>
	<5C3D61A7-172A-4372-9B57-FB1495C88548@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F05CB00B4@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I am a bit skeptical of registry cleaners. They will determine and
remove entries that reference files and/or folders that no longer exist.
They may remove duplicate entries. But the fact is that the amount of
stuff they remove, relative to the whole registry, is extremely small.
Most of the registry is used to store operating system settings that
seldom change or should be changed; actual extraneous entries removed
likely will be less than 1-2 percent of the registry if even that much.
Spyware entries can be removed with spyware removal programs.
Personally, I think this registry performance issue is greatly overblown
in most cases. I used to use regclean back in Win98 days and saw it did
clean stuff. But never a lot. And I don't see any studies actually
showing these reg cleaners do anything for performance (before and
after), just that they can pick out what looks like a lot of entries. A
search on the Internet shows little to substantiate or refute what I am
saying, mostly because the bulk of what I found are reg cleaner sales
pitches that sidestep performance comparisons but try this link below on
the topic to see what I am saying:

http://www.reimage.com/blog/2008/12/21/the-truth-about-registry-cleaners
/

If you really want a clean system, just do a fresh install or new
computer every 3-5 years depending on your time and finances.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
73 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul Root
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 1:40 PM
To: Barrie Robinson
Cc: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net

How does it know what to clean?

I suppose they help.

On Jul 13, 2009, at 10:03 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote:

> Paul,
>
> Is there no absolute efficient registry cleaner?   I use Glary and
> EasyClean
>
> At 09:52 AM 7/13/2009, Paul Root wrote:
>> The Registry is the main reason for Windows poor reliability and
>> performance.
>>
>> When you uninstall ANYTHING that has written to the registry, those
>> entries stay.
>>
>> That's why Windows gets slower over time, because that thing is
>> getting bigger and searching in it takes longer.
>>
>> Don't blame the App for the OS's failings.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 13 17:27:46 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:27:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
In-Reply-To: <20090713230717.30487187649@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C6811102.22147%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Thanks for that explanation. Like I said, my head had these shims, but I
didn't know what they were for. I thought they were adjusting for production
tolerances.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/13/09 1:44 PM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg at mgaguru.com wrote:

>...
> Moss Motors does sell the rocker pedestal shims, but they are not
> originally intended for that purpose.  Later engines had 0.010" shims
> under #2 & #3 pedestals only to put a small bending preload on the
> rocker shaft to keep the shaft from wiggling about in the pedestal
> bores.  None of my engines for decades have ever had these shims, and
> I have never seen any detrimental effect from their absence.  You can
> could install some of these shims under the pedestals to open up the
> rocker clearance, but it seems like treating the symptom rather than
> curing the disease.
> 
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Mon Jul 13 18:34:52 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 20:34:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
In-Reply-To: <20090713110308.DJR83116@ms1.comporium.net>
References: <20090713110308.DJR83116@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <4A5BD2AC.8080309@snet.net>

I'm looking forward to hearing what you discover is wrong.  I just 
milled my 1500 head to get 37cc volume and decked the block to make the 
pistons level with the top of the block.  Even with that, I had plenty 
of adjustment with stock pushrods, although in my case, the stock setup 
was MGB 18V parts.

thgun at comporium.net wrote:
> I have talked to a few people about this and I am still not clear as to how to go about fixing my problem. I purchased a redone head. Now a few of the valves are too tight to adjust. Can I use shims all the way across to raise the rocker assembly? If so where can I get them? Any other tips.
> Thanks for the help,
> Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA 1500 rst
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Jul 13 18:44:52 2009
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:44:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
In-Reply-To: <4A5BD2AC.8080309@snet.net>
References: <20090713110308.DJR83116@ms1.comporium.net>
	<4A5BD2AC.8080309@snet.net>
Message-ID: <20090714004836.BCD6118763F@autox.team.net>

I also mill an 18 head down 0.047" from 3.187" to 3.140" to vhange 
from 43cc to 38cc.  No problem with rocker adjustment in that 
range.  I think you would have to shave it about 0.100" before you 
run out of thread on the adjuster screws.


At 08:34 PM 7/13/2009 -0400, Jim Juhas wrote:
>I'm looking forward to hearing what you discover is wrong.  I just 
>milled my 1500 head to get 37cc volume and decked the block to make 
>the pistons level with the top of the block.  Even with that, I had 
>plenty of adjustment with stock pushrods, although in my case, the 
>stock setup was MGB 18V parts.
>
>thgun at comporium.net wrote:
>>I have talked to a few people about this and I am still not clear 
>>as to how to go about fixing my problem. I purchased a redone head. 
>>Now a few of the valves are too tight to adjust. Can I use shims 
>>all the way across to raise the rocker assembly? If so where can I 
>>get them? Any other tips.
>>Thanks for the help,
>>Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA 1500 rs

From kger.mg at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 20:25:09 2009
From: kger.mg at gmail.com (Keith G.)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:25:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CF8B@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CF8B@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <446df1d00907131925h29edbfaata6a8e6483e6fc2c5@mail.gmail.com>

I hadn't thought of a leak in the hard line.  I'll have to try to inspect
that.

I've thought about one of those Eezi-Bleed systems.  This is probably the
perfect time to get one.  I put those SpeedBleeder valves in to make
bleeding easier, but after all the pedal pumping this time around, I'm ready
for something more automated.

On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 1:02 PM, Councill, David
<dcouncill at msubillings.edu>wrote:

> I had a hell of a time getting the rear brakes to bleed on my 72B. It
> turned out I had a small pinhole on the metal tube that runs over the
> rear axle. It didn't leak (just a seep around the hole) but it pulled in
> air.
>
> What I ended up doing was backtracking the lines to see where there was
> brake fluid. There are a lot of areas where you could have a plug or a
> leak (fluid and/or air). On my 72B, there is a place in the rear of the
> car where the metal tube from the master cylinder ends in a rubber tube
> which joins that tube to the tubes that feed both rear lines. I took
> that apart to see if brake fluid came out there and then worked my way
> back. I hope that makes sense. You could have a collapsed brake line or
> a plug. Maybe even a problem still with the master cylinder. Or the
> wheel cylinders have a leak pulling air into the system.
>
> You just need to check the system/lines at certain points to see where
> the fluid flows and where it does not.
>
> I also now use an Eezi-Bleed system so I don't have to rely on a helper.

From kger.mg at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 20:29:22 2009
From: kger.mg at gmail.com (Keith G.)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:29:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
In-Reply-To: <C680B755.220FC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
	<C680B755.220FC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <446df1d00907131929w496e3bdbr45611ea749e860ad@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 1:05 PM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Are you getting any fluid to the rear system at all? Try undoing the hard
> line to one of the rear cylinders.


Every once in awhile I'll see a spurt of fluid.  But it takes a lot of pedal
pumping to get any.

>
>
> Faulty rear cylinders right out of the box is a real possibility, these
> days.


Well, I had the system pumped up nicely after replacing the cylinders.  But
I hope they're not defective.

>
> Has the car been on a flatbed tow recently? It can happen that when the
> operator secures a chain or strap around the rear axle, it flattens the
> hard
> line, preventing any fluid flow. Solution is to replace the steel brake
> line.


No, it's not been towed at all since I've had it.  (I hope I didn't just
jinx it!)

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 21:58:31 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:58:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sputter
In-Reply-To: <000501ca03e4$dc5f9980$951ecc80$@net>
References: <000501ca03e4$dc5f9980$951ecc80$@net>
Message-ID: <4A5C0267.80901@gmail.com>

John Linkosky wrote:
> I have been having the same problem with my 72 roadster, HIF carbs, over the
> last month. I first noticed the loss of power going up hill at speed on an
> interstate highway, checked the fuel filter and discovered it was full of
> rust. I ordered a new tank and replaced it along with a new fuel filter. The
> symptoms returned. I switched out fuel pumps and still no joy as the car
> continues to periodically sputter and lose power going up long grades. I
> think there must be some debris that is blocking the fuel intake in the bowl
> of the carb, or the float occasionally gets hung up in the closed position.
> I will find out tonight as I plan to disassemble the carbs to look for the
> cause. I will report back if I find anything. John
Note my reply to Malcolm; it just might be ignition.

-The Roxter
--

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Tue Jul 14 01:46:47 2009
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:46:47 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
In-Reply-To: <446df1d00907131925h29edbfaata6a8e6483e6fc2c5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CF8B@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<446df1d00907131925h29edbfaata6a8e6483e6fc2c5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9f2527520907140046r4a1a4644idde2b9512c2161a5@mail.gmail.com>

"I put those SpeedBleeder valves in to make bleeding easier, but after all
the pedal pumping this time around, I'm ready for something more automated."

I love SpeedBleeders, but one failing is that they don't work too well if
there is significant air in the system.  It takes a certain amount of
pressure to open the little valve inside them, and if you have a lot of air
then a peddle press isn't enough to build that pressure and open the valve -
so you press the peddle, but little, if any, air is pumped out.

For similar reasons, just loosening the SpeedBleeder and letting gravity do
the work is totally ineffective.  But that should work if you remove the
Speedbleeder completely.

Options that I can see are:
Get an Eezibleed, as already suggested
Revert to conventional bleed nipples and the standard two-man method, until
the bulk of the air is expelled
Remove the SpeedBleeder nipple completely from the slave cylinder and let
gravity do it's thing - but this will result in brake fluid dribbling over
your hub.

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, currently with her front suspension
upright on my work-bench being re-built, 'cos the MOT man said my steering
was too stiff)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 14 01:54:22 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:54:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
References: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9430C3330F1F4A7591343A8B3D6B3BD1@Three>

How are you bleeding?  With a split system I think you have to use a
continuous pressure method like the EeziBleed, as back pressure from the front
circuit should be limiting movement of the pedal which affects pedal bleeding
of the rears, and vice-versa.  Because of the limited pedal movement you can't
get much pressure in the circuit you are trying to bleed, and as it is full of
air that is taking 99% of the pressure meaning there is very little pressure
left to force fluid through the (probably) empty system which means it will
take a long time.

But the whole point with a split system is that if the pedal really *is* going
all the way to the floor, then you have a problem with *both* circuits.  If
that was an exaggeration in frustration and the pedal *isn't* going to the
floor and *is* developing satisfactory pressure to the fronts as you state
elsewhere, but can't get any fluid out of the rear bleeders, then you need to
hook up an EeziBleed while you slacken (and retighten!) various pipe
connections throughout the rear circuit to see if and where you have a
blockage.  Even with an EeziBleed pressure isn't that high and it can take
several minutes to get fluid though the system.  If you don't want to get an
EeziBleed but have a helper then tell them to hold the brake pedal down hard
rather than pumping.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ...  I'm
  frustrated with the brakes, being unable to get fluid to the rear bleed
  valves...

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 14 02:00:08 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 09:00:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
References: <C680B5FF.220F9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <0D6367752B9647F682DBD0932E00F854@Three>

They were to put a bit of bending torque on the rocker shaft to stop it
twisting in use, and were only under the middle two pedestals of MGBs as a
modification.  Someone must have taken a lot of material off the head and/or
block for you to run out of adjustment if the valve seats aren't recessed,
shimming the rockers would only put those back to where they were so I can't
see a problem with that if it is the cause.  But whose to say the 'redoer'
didn't recut the valve seats as well which would add to the issue?  Are you
sure you have the right cam followers and push-rods?  Are they correctly
seated?

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  My MGB head had shims on the rocker brackets from the factory, so it's not
  like that is an outrageous suggestion. But the shims were only maybe 0.005"
  to 0.010", and that would hardly seem enough difference to cause one to run
  out of valve adjustment.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 14 02:49:02 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 09:49:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] AOL and Team.Net
References: <cd9.55769330.37892232@aol.com><C67D1E31.2208D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><E1MQ2PO-0001gE-AB@epsilon.look.ca>
	<4A5A2ABF.1060004@gmail.com><20090713094413.zlz074tywwws0808@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu><C903DABB-7829-4551-9D9A-5517E6038741@gmail.com><E1MQR9x-0006WK-GR@delta.look.ca>
	<5C3D61A7-172A-4372-9B57-FB1495C88548@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <74587D43F80D4955AEDC714BFCA3D9F7@Three>

Amongst other things RegClean at least goes down the list of registered
components and if it can't find that component at the specified location it
deletes the reference.  A lot of these make the computer slower, at least.
  ----- Original Message -----


  How does it know what to clean?

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 18:28:02 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 19:28:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] setting valves after head machining / 1500 MGA
In-Reply-To: <0D6367752B9647F682DBD0932E00F854@Three>
References: <C680B5FF.220F9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<0D6367752B9647F682DBD0932E00F854@Three>
Message-ID: <4A5D2292.2070404@gmail.com>

Paul Hunt wrote:
> They were to put a bit of bending torque on the rocker shaft to stop it
> twisting in use, and were only under the middle two pedestals of MGBs as a
> modification.  Someone must have taken a lot of material off the head and/or
> block for you to run out of adjustment if the valve seats aren't recessed,
> shimming the rockers would only put those back to where they were so I can't
> see a problem with that if it is the cause.  But whose to say the 'redoer'
> didn't recut the valve seats as well which would add to the issue?  Are you
> sure you have the right cam followers and push-rods?  Are they correctly
> seated?
Just a word of warning here. I once bought a cylinder head off eBay for my 67 Cooper S. Just a few miles down the road, I seriously holed a piston, totally ruining it and requiring an engine-out rebuild. Turned out the head had been decked radically and the compression ratio was over 14 to one. I fixed it by paying a racing shop to grind out the combustion areas on the head so the ratio was 10 to one and by replacing the ruined piston. That was an expensive lesson.

-The Roxter
--

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul 15 03:34:07 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:34:07 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
Message-ID: <18D060FEC6274144A9217F21228B42FA@Three>

Watching "The Worlds Fastest Indian" a 2006 dramatisation of the true story of
New Zealander Burt Munro and his much modified Indian Scout at Bonneville in
the 60s, I noticed a brief glimpse of an MGB on a trailer parked at the side
of the road in Wendover.  Red with a white hardtop and other markings it made
me think of the works MGBs, and freeze-framing it found the registration was 8
DBL, which was indeed a works car from the period being portrayed.  How
authentic is that!?

PaulH.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 15 05:47:19 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 04:47:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
In-Reply-To: <18D060FEC6274144A9217F21228B42FA@Three>
References: <18D060FEC6274144A9217F21228B42FA@Three>
Message-ID: <555388.26770.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here you go, although you can't see the number plate in this picture.

http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_36750-MG-B-ADO23.html

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 5:34:07 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films

Watching "The Worlds Fastest Indian" a 2006 dramatisation of the true story of
New Zealander Burt Munro and his much modified Indian Scout at Bonneville in
the 60s, I noticed a brief glimpse of an MGB on a trailer parked at the side
of the road in Wendover.  Red with a white hardtop and other markings it made
me think of the works MGBs, and freeze-framing it found the registration was 8
DBL, which was indeed a works car from the period being portrayed.  How
authentic is that!?

PaulH.
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Jul 15 07:03:52 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:03:52 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
In-Reply-To: <555388.26770.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <18D060FEC6274144A9217F21228B42FA@Three>
	<555388.26770.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F05CB0168@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Yeah, I saw that movie last year and my son pointed out the MGB which
was a quick shot late in the movie.

On a related note, I was watching another movie a few days ago that
featured a MGA fairly prominently. The movie was a classic 60s black and
white movie called "Horror at Party Beach". Lots of driving scenes along
with beach babes and groovy music and cheesy monsters with fish heads
and what looks like hotdogs protruding from their mouths. We even know
the color of the MGA was grey because the cops in the movie called it "a
grey MG". It was a vital part of the movie because the hero, Hank, had
to drive to New York ("an hour way") to get a bucket of sodium that
would kill the monsters, thus lots of driving scene filler for the
movie.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Horror_of_Party_Beach

A great movie, also comes in a MST version (series 8, episode 11)

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
73 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 5:47 AM
To: Paul Hunt; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGs in films

Here you go, although you can't see the number plate in this picture.

http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_36750-MG-B-ADO23.html

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 09:47:19 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:47:19 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F05CB0168@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <18D060FEC6274144A9217F21228B42FA@Three>
	<555388.26770.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F05CB0168@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 6:03 AM, Councill,
David<dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:
> Yeah, I saw that movie last year and my son pointed out the MGB which
> was a quick shot late in the movie.
>
> On a related note, I was watching another movie a few days ago that
> featured a MGA fairly prominently. The movie was a classic 60s black and
> white movie called "Horror at Party Beach"


Earlier this week, I wathced one of the latest TV dramatizations of
the Agatha Cristie "Miss Marple" stories on my local PBS station. This
episode was "Murder is easy". It  featured a powder blue MGA.

Simon

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 15 10:45:50 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 09:45:50 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
In-Reply-To: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, I saw that. Plot-wise, I thought it was odd that the character, an
American, was tooling around in a new MG --- supposedly she was just
visiting. Did Hertz rent MGAs in 1955? I suppose a rental would have been a
relatively-unphotogenic Austin or Morris.

Right after the program, the station showed a promo for a rerun of an
Inspector Morse mystery, where his famous Jaguar saloon almost collides with
an Iris Blue MGB.

It's not surprising that the British producers of period dramas use
authentic vehicles. It is weird when MGs turn up in contemporary American
commercials, like the insurance spot where a car rolls down a hilly street
into a parked MGB (or is it the MGB that rolls? I forget -- maybe that would
be more realistic). Or the casino ad I just saw, where the funloving young
couple drive up to the door in a white RBB -- it looks totally out of place.
A 911 Cabrio or Z4 would have been more in keeping with the general tone of
the commercial -- we all know MG drivers don't have money to gamble with,
and get their risk-taking jollies just driving in traffic.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 7/15/09 8:47 AM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 6:03 AM, Councill,
> David<dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:
>> Yeah, I saw that movie last year and my son pointed out the MGB which
>> was a quick shot late in the movie.
>> 
>> On a related note, I was watching another movie a few days ago that
>> featured a MGA fairly prominently. The movie was a classic 60s black and
>> white movie called "Horror at Party Beach"
> 
> 
> Earlier this week, I wathced one of the latest TV dramatizations of
> the Agatha Cristie "Miss Marple" stories on my local PBS station. This
> episode was "Murder is easy". It  featured a powder blue MGA.
> 
> Simon

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 12:11:04 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:11:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
In-Reply-To: <C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
	<C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 9:45 AM, Max Heim<max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>
>
> It's not surprising that the British producers of period dramas use
> authentic vehicles. It is weird when MGs turn up in contemporary American
> commercials, like the insurance spot where a car rolls down a hilly street
> into a parked MGB (or is it the MGB that rolls? I forget -- maybe that would
> be more realistic).

It was the MGB that rolls. The advert was for AAA insurance services.

 Or the casino ad I just saw, where the funloving young
> couple drive up to the door in a white RBB -- it looks totally out of place.
>

Red Hawk Casino. Yes, it does look out of place.

Simon

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 13:36:39 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:36:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
In-Reply-To: <40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>
References: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
	<C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>

On Jul 15, 2009, at 1:11 PM, Simon Matthews wrote:

> On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 9:45 AM, Max Heim<max_heim at sbcglobal.net>  
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> It's not surprising that the British producers of period dramas use
>> authentic vehicles. It is weird when MGs turn up in contemporary  
>> American
>> commercials, like the insurance spot where a car rolls down a hilly  
>> street
>> into a parked MGB (or is it the MGB that rolls? I forget -- maybe  
>> that would
>> be more realistic).
>
> It was the MGB that rolls. The advert was for AAA insurance services.
>
> Or the casino ad I just saw, where the funloving young
>> couple drive up to the door in a white RBB -- it looks totally out  
>> of place.
>>
>
> Red Hawk Casino. Yes, it does look out of place.

Looks like a pretty nice RBB.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpnLkvevDzM


>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From palte at gmx.net  Wed Jul 15 13:59:56 2009
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 21:59:56 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in fcommer
In-Reply-To: <8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>
References: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
	<C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>
	<8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090715195956.17510@gmx.net>

-
> > Red Hawk Casino. Yes, it does look out of place.
> 
> Looks like a pretty nice RBB.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpnLkvevDzM
> 

I wonder what language the commercial is in.
My guess is Arabic, but the (alcoholic?) drink in the same commercial
makes that unlikely.
Then, the license plate looks like an USA one.

Bert
-- 
Jetzt kostenlos herunterladen: Internet Explorer 8 und Mozilla Firefox 3 -
sicherer, schneller und einfacher! http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/atbrowser

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 15 15:37:20 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:37:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in fcommer
In-Reply-To: <20090715195956.17510@gmx.net>
References: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
	<C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>
	<8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>
	<20090715195956.17510@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <608832.50202.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It says Tagalog, which is spoken in the Philippines, among other places....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: Bert Palte <palte at gmx.net>
To: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 3:59:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGs in fcommer

-
> > Red Hawk Casino. Yes, it does look out of place.
> 
> Looks like a pretty nice RBB.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpnLkvevDzM
> 

I wonder what language the commercial is in.
My guess is Arabic, but the (alcoholic?) drink in the same commercial
makes that unlikely.
Then, the license plate looks like an USA one.

Bert

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 15 16:35:36 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 15:35:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
Message-ID: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

For the last few months the MG has been tootling about on rear tires with
perhaps 1/32" tread depth (generous estimate). While in the rainy season
this was a little dicey (wheelspin at every stoplight), now that the roads
are dry and hot, it is actually pretty entertaining. Kind of like this
drifting fad I keep reading about...

I recently read in Click and Clack that you were supposed to put the good
tires on the rear, but this made no sense to me. I guess that advice comes
from irrational fear of oversteer (generally espoused by manufacturers). To
me, it's more important to be able to stop and turn, than to keep the rear
end in line under every conceivable circumstance, even if it involves
plowing nose first into the obstacle.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
[yes, I'll get some new tires; just not now]

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 16:53:14 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 17:53:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in fcommer
In-Reply-To: <20090715195956.17510@gmx.net>
References: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
	<C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>
	<8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>
	<20090715195956.17510@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <4A5E5DDA.9020306@gmail.com>

Bert Palte wrote:
> -
>   
>>> Red Hawk Casino. Yes, it does look out of place.
>>>       
>> Looks like a pretty nice RBB.
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpnLkvevDzM
>>
>>     
>
> I wonder what language the commercial is in.
> My guess is Arabic, but the (alcoholic?) drink in the same commercial
> makes that unlikely.
> Then, the license plate looks like an USA one.
The Subject says Tagalog, so that would be The Phillipines.

-The Roxter
--

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 17:00:12 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 16:00:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200907151600v3eb3a9fet33666cb9f6f3dc9e@mail.gmail.com>

Max,

I think that the recommendation to put the good tires on the rear may
be due to the idea that, if you are going to hit something, you should
hit it head on. Cars are designed for frontal impact and, pre-ABS
brakes, were generally designed such that the front wheels would lock
up first, ensuring that any collisions under heavy braking are head-on
collisions.

I don't understand your comments about it being entertaining to drive
in dry weather with little tread -- I thought that tread actually
reduces the grip of tires in dry conditions. It's more likely just due
to age of the tires, which in my experience can have a significant
effect on the amount of grip.

Simon

On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 3:35 PM, Max Heim<max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> For the last few months the MG has been tootling about on rear tires with
> perhaps 1/32" tread depth (generous estimate). While in the rainy season
> this was a little dicey (wheelspin at every stoplight), now that the roads
> are dry and hot, it is actually pretty entertaining. Kind of like this
> drifting fad I keep reading about...
>
> I recently read in Click and Clack that you were supposed to put the good
> tires on the rear, but this made no sense to me. I guess that advice comes
> from irrational fear of oversteer (generally espoused by manufacturers). To
> me, it's more important to be able to stop and turn, than to keep the rear
> end in line under every conceivable circumstance, even if it involves
> plowing nose first into the obstacle.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> [yes, I'll get some new tires; just not now]

From mjanacek at snet.net  Wed Jul 15 18:39:39 2009
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:39:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in films
In-Reply-To: <8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>
References: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
	<C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>
	<8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A5E76CB.3040907@snet.net>

How about this one:
www.*shermansway*.com/
BTW, it's a very good movie.

Mike
'79B

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 15 19:32:08 2009
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:32:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1B3A967059744F97BED4D90634BB5653@Larry>

Max, I have always been under the impression that understeer is safer for 
those whose driving skills are "somewhat less than good",  IOW they suck.

Personally, I really prefer oversteer to understeer.  But, then, I'm a 
maniac.


Larry


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 5:35 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)


For the last few months the MG has been tootling about on rear tires with
perhaps 1/32" tread depth (generous estimate). While in the rainy season
this was a little dicey (wheelspin at every stoplight), now that the roads
are dry and hot, it is actually pretty entertaining. Kind of like this
drifting fad I keep reading about...

I recently read in Click and Clack that you were supposed to put the good
tires on the rear, but this made no sense to me. I guess that advice comes
from irrational fear of oversteer (generally espoused by manufacturers). To
me, it's more important to be able to stop and turn, than to keep the rear
end in line under every conceivable circumstance, even if it involves
plowing nose first into the obstacle.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
[yes, I'll get some new tires; just not now]
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive 

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Wed Jul 15 22:17:00 2009
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (mgmagnette at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 00:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Paul McCartney Gives MG a shout out :)
Message-ID: <8CBD3E36630598F-8C4-2369@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>

Ok its very minor, but Paul McCartney is on Letterman and was reminiscing about when BMC gave them each an MG to drive around in 1962.? I wish it wasn't raining!

-John

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Jul 15 15:15:36 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 17:15:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGs in fcommer
In-Reply-To: <20090715195956.17510@gmx.net>
References: <40b437200907150847j2699d67en4ee51696514f6eba@mail.gmail.com>
	<C68355CE.22202%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<40b437200907151111t764a03cbl28390b9df69e13@mail.gmail.com>
	<8AF29B21-B850-458E-928E-3FEE691A07DF@gmail.com>
	<20090715195956.17510@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <E1MRLbe-0004bz-EV@delta.look.ca>

My guess an American red Indian reserve place....and yes, the Casino 
looks out of place - but not the MG !!!!

At 03:59 PM 7/15/2009, Bert Palte wrote:
>-
> > > Red Hawk Casino. Yes, it does look out of place.
> >
> > Looks like a pretty nice RBB.
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpnLkvevDzM
> >
>
>I wonder what language the commercial is in.
>My guess is Arabic, but the (alcoholic?) drink in the same commercial
>makes that unlikely.
>Then, the license plate looks like an USA one.
>
>Bert
>--
>Jetzt kostenlos herunterladen: Internet Explorer 8 und Mozilla Firefox 3 -
>sicherer, schneller und einfacher! http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/atbrowser
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul 16 02:02:46 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:02:46 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4D16ED44BFA24095A3D175CA9ADF7669@Three>

Most people have no idea what to do in oversteer, which is what happens when
you have more grip at the front than the rear.  Oversteer is 'safe' in that
the car is still travelling in a straighter line than the driver intended and
they aren't disorientated by spinning.  Oversteer is easily handled on an MGB,
but modern suspension design is usually such that you get snap-oversteer and
even if you know what to do unless you are pretty competent you don't get the
chance to do it.  I used to amuse myself drifting round an roundabout in the
wet on a deserted industrial estate on a Sunday morning in my V8, but when I
tried it in a Sierra it could go round much faster without doing anything,
then very suddenly break away.  Spoilt the fun.

In the UK it's illegal to have cross-plies on the rear and radials on the
front, in my impecunious youth I had to shell-out for a back pair months
before I could afford to buy a front pair and get the benefit.  It's also
illegal to have wider on the front than the rear.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----
  I recently read in Click and Clack that you were supposed to put the good
  tires on the rear, but this made no sense to me.

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Jul 16 07:05:53 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:05:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15868.1247717837.20693.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15868.1247717837.20693.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0KMV00G23LPYFSN0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Did you ever hear "understeer is when the driver is scared, and 
oversteer is when the passenger is scared".

At 12:17 AM 7/16/2009, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>I recently read in Click and Clack that you were supposed to put the good
>tires on the rear, but this made no sense to me. I guess that advice comes
>from irrational fear of oversteer (generally espoused by manufacturers). To
>me, it's more important to be able to stop and turn, than to keep the rear
>end in line under every conceivable circumstance, even if it involves
>plowing nose first into the obstacle.

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul 16 07:47:41 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 09:47:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Front wheel arch protectors
Message-ID: <E1MRRK4-0006NK-S6@alpha.look.ca>

I have a set of plastic front wheel arch protectors but I am not 
going to use it - I am just too darned busy with other stuff.   I 
think all the bits are there - I was going to chuck it all but if 
anyone wants the set it will cost you postage and $5 for a 
beer!   Photos etc sent on request

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From Daybell7 at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 10:21:22 2009
From: Daybell7 at aol.com (Daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 12:21:22 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] SU-HIF Problem
Message-ID: <c5f.57a4d804.3790ad82@aol.com>

Greetings MG'ers,
 
I have gas flowing from the valve cover vent pipe of my  front carburetor 
(SU-HIF).  Is this the float needle valve failing to  seal?  Can I fix 
without rebuilding the carb?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL
1972 MGB
1968 MGB-GT   
**************S T R E T C H  your technology dollars with great laptop 
deals from Dell! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223081712x1201714210/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2
D5)

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 16 11:09:38 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 10:09:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] SU-HIF Problem
In-Reply-To: <c5f.57a4d804.3790ad82@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C684ACE2.222C1%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yes, it could be as simple as a bit of crud in the valve, or a sunken float.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/16/09 9:21 AM, Daybell7 at aol.com at Daybell7 at aol.com wrote:

> Greetings MG'ers,
>  
> I have gas flowing from the valve cover vent pipe of my  front carburetor
> (SU-HIF).  Is this the float needle valve failing to  seal?  Can I fix
> without rebuilding the carb?
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL
> 1972 MGB
> 1968 MGB-GT   

From tmcnam4510 at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 11:13:16 2009
From: tmcnam4510 at aol.com (tmcnam4510 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:13:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] SU-HIF Problem
In-Reply-To: <c5f.57a4d804.3790ad82@aol.com>
References: <c5f.57a4d804.3790ad82@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBD44FD7C1022A-162C-40A3@WEBMAIL-DY15.sysops.aol.com>

Hey Steve, IMHO you will need to remove the carb(s) from the manifold, take off the bottom plate, (4 screws), and just replace the float, valve assy., (use vitron tipped), and, in my case, the shaft that holds the float.? I did both carbs as they are the same vintage.? It is a simple procedure once the parts are on hand.? Oh yeah, buy new bottom gaskets too.? Regards, Tom


-----Original Message-----
From: Daybell7 at aol.com
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2009 12:21 pm
Subject: [Mgs] SU-HIF Problem



Greetings MG'ers,
 
I have gas flowing from the valve cover vent pipe of my  front carburetor 
(SU-HIF).  Is this the float needle valve failing to  seal?  Can I fix 
without rebuilding the carb?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL
1972 MGB
1968 MGB-GT   
**************S T R E T C H  your technology dollars with great laptop 
deals from Dell! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223081712x1201714210/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2
D5)
You are subscribed as tmcnam4510 at aol.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 11:39:35 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:39:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<4D16ED44BFA24095A3D175CA9ADF7669@Three>
Message-ID: <DB7E54B6D5754D74BAB192FD5C898559@Edscomputer>

List,

How does one reattach the items such as the visors and top (hood) brackets 
to the windscreen top rail? The replacement for my '72 MGB was stripped of 
all these riveted  items. Will pop rivets work or is something else 
required?

Also, can the 4 bolts which attach the assembly to the body be installed w/o 
removing the dash? If not how best to move the dash far enough to reach 
these 4 bolts?

Thanks,

Ed Woods 

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jul 16 11:54:03 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:54:03 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
Message-ID: <20090716.135404.4060.14.MGBOB@juno.com>

   Visors and hood brackets have been riveted in the windscreens I have
taken apart. Moss catalogue shows rivets for the sun visor bracket. Pop
rivets work if the rivet tool (gun) has a tip that will fit snug against
the visible part of the rivet.  Some have used screws, but one must be
very careful that screws do not contact the glass.
   Those four bolts can be installed w/o removing the dash.  It's not a
quick or easy task, alas.  A helper is of inestimable value. Before
starting, check that the bolts thread easily into the threads on the
body. Some relieve the tips of the bolts a bit so they have more
self-centering action as they enter the threaded holes. A bit of
anti-seize for lubrication will not hurt.  One gets all of them started
loosely, then tightens. The rubber seals try to roll backwards under the
frame and are surprisingly stiff. 
Bob


 
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:39:35 -0400 "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
writes:
> List,
> 
> How does one reattach the items such as the visors and top (hood) 
> brackets 
> to the windscreen top rail? The replacement for my '72 MGB was 
> stripped of 
> all these riveted  items. Will pop rivets work or is something else 
> 
> required?
> 
> Also, can the 4 bolts which attach the assembly to the body be 
> installed w/o 
> removing the dash? If not how best to move the dash far enough to 
> reach 
> these 4 bolts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ed Woods 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Digital Photography - Click Now.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmQM5GW7pBfWDvnItdnnPNy9hpzVsqBRKBa87JHCbBAJmfERo32/

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 16 13:14:26 2009
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 12:14:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] RB MG at Red Hawk Casino
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1247767203.25379.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1247767203.25379.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <922666.48642.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The language is Tagalog - the local language of The Philippines.

brgds, Jay

I wonder what language the commercial is in.
>My guess is Arabic, but the (alcoholic?) drink in the same commercial
>makes that unlikely.
>Then, the license plate looks like an USA one.
>
>Bert





________________________________

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 13:15:38 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:15:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <4D16ED44BFA24095A3D175CA9ADF7669@Three>
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<4D16ED44BFA24095A3D175CA9ADF7669@Three>
Message-ID: <4A5F7C5A.7050105@gmail.com>

Paul Hunt wrote:
> Most people have no idea what to do in oversteer, which is what happens when
> you have more grip at the front than the rear.  Oversteer is 'safe' in that
> the car is still travelling in a straighter line than the driver intended and
> they aren't disorientated by spinning.  Oversteer is easily handled on an MGB,
> but modern suspension design is usually such that you get snap-oversteer and
> even if you know what to do unless you are pretty competent you don't get the
> chance to do it.  I used to amuse myself drifting round an roundabout in the
> wet on a deserted industrial estate on a Sunday morning in my V8, but when I
> tried it in a Sierra it could go round much faster without doing anything,
> then very suddenly break away.  Spoilt the fun.
>
> In the UK it's illegal to have cross-plies on the rear and radials on the
> front, in my impecunious youth I had to shell-out for a back pair months
> before I could afford to buy a front pair and get the benefit.  It's also
> illegal to have wider on the front than the rear.
I once saw Stirling Moss lock the brakes on (I think it was a Healey) and then turn the front wheels full lock. The car stopped in a straight line. The point he was making was that you can't steer with locked front wheels. We used brake tapping to stop much quicker and retain steering, even on ice. Too bad new drivers don't learn this. They will tend to try to steer away from an obstacle while hard braking. This just might work with a really good antilock system, but I can do a much better job without the system, just by knowing how to drive.

-The Roxter
--

From deano at cox.net  Thu Jul 16 13:32:00 2009
From: deano at cox.net (Deano)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:32:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
Message-ID: <73CB9B40E612428186712C063D3BD2D9@dean99aueu177z>

Anyone have suggestions where I might locate a headlight switch for an MGB?
It's no longer available from Moss, VB, etc.  Thanks.  Dean

From dontoy at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 13:35:18 2009
From: dontoy at comcast.net (DONALD TOY)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 15:35:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB transmission
Message-ID: <83EE8409D2754C91BEDA9F75B6468885@DONALDTOY>

Hiya listers,
A good friend and former list member in Indiana, PA has a 1972 MGB
transmission that he'd like to get out of his garage. He took it out only
because he came across a very nice overdrive unit. Anyone have any idea of
what he should be asking? You can reply to me and I will forward any responses
to him. Thanks in advance.
On a related transmission note... I just got the transmission back for my TF
after a rebuild. I took it to a gentleman who was the MG mechanic at Lombard
Motors in Monroeville, PA when it was an MG dealership, then Saab, then boats,
then ATV's, then finally a Florist shop. He's never left the basement garage.
Ok OK he's gone home at night.  He still does maintenance on the florists
fleet of vehicles. Anyway he charged me less than $100. (like 1/2). :^P I just
wish it was in time to put it all back together for the Vintage Gran Prix this
weekend. I doubt it. Thanks again. Safety Fast.
Don Toy
1954 MGTF
2000 Land Rover Discovery
Various and sundry SAABs of early 90's vintage

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 16 13:45:50 2009
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 12:45:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
Message-ID: <89750.14285.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

eBay has been my best place to find them. They were also used on another car
(for searching) but I cant remember what.
Carl

--- On Thu, 7/16/09, Deano <deano at cox.net> wrote:

From: Deano <deano at cox.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, July 16, 2009, 3:32 PM

Anyone have suggestions where I might locate a headlight switch for an MGB?
It's no longer available from Moss, VB, etc.  Thanks.  Dean
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 16 13:46:35 2009
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 12:46:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
Message-ID: <138986.37634.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

In the meantime a 62-66 spec three position toggle will work in it's place

--- On Thu, 7/16/09, Deano <deano at cox.net> wrote:

From: Deano <deano at cox.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, July 16, 2009, 3:32 PM

Anyone have suggestions where I might locate a headlight switch for an MGB?
It's no longer available from Moss, VB, etc.  Thanks.  Dean
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Jul 16 13:52:35 2009
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:52:35 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGB transmission
In-Reply-To: <83EE8409D2754C91BEDA9F75B6468885@DONALDTOY>
References: <83EE8409D2754C91BEDA9F75B6468885@DONALDTOY>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CFAE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

The value of the standard transmission is minimal. I have seen them
offered for as much as $50 but I got mine for free from someone who also
wanted to get it out of his garage at the same time I happened to be
travelling in that area. Now it is in my son's garage until I can get to
it.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
73 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of DONALD TOY
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 1:35 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MGB transmission

Hiya listers,
A good friend and former list member in Indiana, PA has a 1972 MGB
transmission that he'd like to get out of his garage. He took it out
only
because he came across a very nice overdrive unit. Anyone have any idea
of
what he should be asking? You can reply to me and I will forward any
responses
to him. Thanks in advance.
On a related transmission note... I just got the transmission back for
my TF
after a rebuild. I took it to a gentleman who was the MG mechanic at
Lombard
Motors in Monroeville, PA when it was an MG dealership, then Saab, then
boats,
then ATV's, then finally a Florist shop. He's never left the basement
garage.
Ok OK he's gone home at night.  He still does maintenance on the
florists
fleet of vehicles. Anyway he charged me less than $100. (like 1/2). :^P
I just
wish it was in time to put it all back together for the Vintage Gran
Prix this
weekend. I doubt it. Thanks again. Safety Fast.
Don Toy
1954 MGTF
2000 Land Rover Discovery
Various and sundry SAABs of early 90's vintage


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From tmcnam4510 at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 15:13:32 2009
From: tmcnam4510 at aol.com (tmcnam4510 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:13:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
In-Reply-To: <DB7E54B6D5754D74BAB192FD5C898559@Edscomputer>
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><4D16ED44BFA24095A3D175CA9ADF7669@Three>
	<DB7E54B6D5754D74BAB192FD5C898559@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <8CBD47168A9265F-540-192E@WEBMAIL-MY07.sysops.aol.com>

Hey Ed, I had to have the dash loose to reach the bolts for the windscreen.? Yes, pop rivits will work for the visors but be very careful to not contact the glass.? It is fairly "fragil" on the edges.? Regards, Tom


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2009 1:39 pm
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen


List,?
?
How does one reattach the items such as the visors and top (hood) brackets to the windscreen top rail? The replacement for my '72 MGB was stripped of all these riveted items. Will pop rivets work or is something else required??
?
Also, can the 4 bolts which attach the assembly to the body be installed w/o removing the dash? If not how best to move the dash far enough to reach these 4 bolts??
?
Thanks,?
?
Ed Woods _______________________________________________?
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html?
?
You are subscribed as tmcnam4510 at aol.com?
?
Mgs at autox.team.net?
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs?
?
http://www.team.net/archive?

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul 16 15:53:15 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:53:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
In-Reply-To: <73CB9B40E612428186712C063D3BD2D9@dean99aueu177z>
References: <73CB9B40E612428186712C063D3BD2D9@dean99aueu177z>
Message-ID: <E1MRYtc-00043U-K6@alpha.look.ca>

I got all my switches from Europa Specialist Spares 
www.euroaspares.com - They are identical to those used on 
MGBs!!!  ...and dirt cheap !!


At 03:32 PM 7/16/2009, Deano wrote:
>Anyone have suggestions where I might locate a headlight switch for an MGB?
>It's no longer available from Moss, VB, etc.  Thanks.  Dean
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Jul 16 16:26:27 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:26:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] SU-HIF Problem
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1247767203.25379.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1247767203.25379.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0KMW00FO6BYHLQ50@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I agree with Max.  Before you take it all apart, at least take a look 
and make sure it is not a sunken float.  That's what happened to 
mine.  It is a super easy fix, if you have another float to swap 
in.  That may not be the problem, but if it is, you'll be back in 
business and save the major carb work for when it is snowing.  And if 
you live somewhere where the weather is perfect all year round, then 
I just hate you.  :-)

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net

At 02:00 PM 7/16/2009, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>Hey Steve, IMHO you will need to remove the carb(s) from the 
>manifold, take off the bottom plate, (4 screws), and just replace 
>the float, valve assy., (use vitron tipped), and, in my case, the 
>shaft that holds the float.? I did both carbs as they are the same 
>vintage.? It is a simple procedure once the parts are on hand.? Oh 
>yeah, buy new bottom gaskets too.? Regards, Tom

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 16:48:50 2009
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 06:48:50 +0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGB transmission
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CFAE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <83EE8409D2754C91BEDA9F75B6468885@DONALDTOY>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CFAE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <76664a460907161548m898b91av19523f59ab97ca26@mail.gmail.com>

agreed, I have two non-od units that I got for free...  Now I need to
build a storage system so it's costing me to have them.

On Thursday, July 16, 2009, Councill, David <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
wrote:
> The value of the standard transmission is minimal. I have seen them
> offered for as much as $50 but I got mine for free from someone who also
> wanted to get it out of his garage at the same time I happened to be
> travelling in that area. Now it is in my son's garage until I can get to
> it.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> 73 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of DONALD TOY
> Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 1:35 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGB transmission
>
> Hiya listers,
> A good friend and former list member in Indiana, PA has a 1972 MGB
> transmission that he'd like to get out of his garage. He took it out
> only
> because he came across a very nice overdrive unit. Anyone have any idea
> of
> what he should be asking? You can reply to me and I will forward any
> responses
> to him. Thanks in advance.
> On a related transmission note... I just got the transmission back for
> my TF
> after a rebuild. I took it to a gentleman who was the MG mechanic at
> Lombard
> Motors in Monroeville, PA when it was an MG dealership, then Saab, then
> boats,
> then ATV's, then finally a Florist shop. He's never left the basement
> garage.
> Ok OK he's gone home at night.  He still does maintenance on the
> florists
> fleet of vehicles. Anyway he charged me less than $100. (like 1/2). :^P
> I just
> wish it was in time to put it all back together for the Vintage Gran
> Prix this
> weekend. I doubt it. Thanks again. Safety Fast.
> Don Toy
> 1954 MGTF
> 2000 Land Rover Discovery
> Various and sundry SAABs of early 90's vintage
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 17:19:53 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:19:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SU-HIF Problem
In-Reply-To: <0KMW00FO6BYHLQ50@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <mailman.9.1247767203.25379.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<0KMW00FO6BYHLQ50@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <14094875-6B4F-42AC-A5B5-3C07E48BB7B6@gmail.com>

The key word is HIF. You have to take it off to look at the float.

Still, it's not that big of a deal.

On Jul 16, 2009, at 5:26 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:

> I agree with Max.  Before you take it all apart, at least take a  
> look and make sure it is not a sunken float.  That's what happened  
> to mine.  It is a super easy fix, if you have another float to swap  
> in.  That may not be the problem, but if it is, you'll be back in  
> business and save the major carb work for when it is snowing.  And  
> if you live somewhere where the weather is perfect all year round,  
> then I just hate you.  :-)
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato at optonline.net
>
> At 02:00 PM 7/16/2009, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>> Hey Steve, IMHO you will need to remove the carb(s) from the  
>> manifold, take off the bottom plate, (4 screws), and just replace  
>> the float, valve assy., (use vitron tipped), and, in my case, the  
>> shaft that holds the float.? I did both carbs as they are the same  
>> vintage.? It is a simple procedure once the parts are on hand.? Oh  
>> yeah, buy new bottom gaskets too.? Regards, Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Jul 16 17:34:16 2009
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 19:34:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] SU-HIF Problem
In-Reply-To: <14094875-6B4F-42AC-A5B5-3C07E48BB7B6@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.9.1247767203.25379.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<0KMW00FO6BYHLQ50@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<14094875-6B4F-42AC-A5B5-3C07E48BB7B6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0KMW00C2VET5Y6C0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Oops.  Missed that.  I have an MGA, so I was picturing my SU carbs.

-Steve

At 07:19 PM 7/16/2009, Paul Root wrote:
>The key word is HIF. You have to take it off to look at the float.
>
>Still, it's not that big of a deal.

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Thu Jul 16 17:59:23 2009
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 19:59:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations
In-Reply-To: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
References: <446df1d00907130950j1f4583e1i4708191268a97631@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004201ca0671$71aacad0$55006070$@com>

I haven't seen if you have gotten the answer you need, and I'm not familiar
with that new a 'B. If there is an adjustment for the brake pedal free play
you may want to check it. If the master cylinder is unable to return to its
resting position, it may not allow fluid to return causing you to only be
able to bleed one circuit. When I have seen this in earlier NA dual circuit
systems the rear would bleed, but not the front which is not what you are
seeing. Easy enough to jiggle the pedal and see if that may be part of the
problem.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Keith G.
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 12:50 PM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Brake frustrations

So my '79 B is sitting up on jackstands while a summer marches on.  I'm
frustrated with the brakes, being unable to get fluid to the rear bleed
valves.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 16 19:44:21 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:44:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <4A5F7C5A.7050105@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

The thing about braking is that in front-engined pre-ABS cars, the rear
tires will lock up before the fronts under hard braking, no matter what
silly mix of tires you have. So I want the good rubber on the front where it
will actually contribute to stopping the car (without locking up), rather
than on the back where it will merely flatspot and become bad rubber.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/16/09 12:15 PM, The Roxter at rocknatural at gmail.com wrote:

> Paul Hunt wrote:
>> Most people have no idea what to do in oversteer, which is what happens when
>> you have more grip at the front than the rear.  Oversteer is 'safe' in that
>> the car is still travelling in a straighter line than the driver intended and
>> they aren't disorientated by spinning.  Oversteer is easily handled on an
>> MGB,
>> but modern suspension design is usually such that you get snap-oversteer and
>> even if you know what to do unless you are pretty competent you don't get the
>> chance to do it.  I used to amuse myself drifting round an roundabout in the
>> wet on a deserted industrial estate on a Sunday morning in my V8, but when I
>> tried it in a Sierra it could go round much faster without doing anything,
>> then very suddenly break away.  Spoilt the fun.
>> 
>> In the UK it's illegal to have cross-plies on the rear and radials on the
>> front, in my impecunious youth I had to shell-out for a back pair months
>> before I could afford to buy a front pair and get the benefit.  It's also
>> illegal to have wider on the front than the rear.

> I once saw Stirling Moss lock the brakes on (I think it was a Healey) and then
> turn the front wheels full lock. The car stopped in a straight line. The point
> he was making was that you can't steer with locked front wheels. We used brake
> tapping to stop much quicker and retain steering, even on ice. Too bad new
> drivers don't learn this. They will tend to try to steer away from an obstacle
> while hard braking. This just might work with a really good antilock system,
> but I can do a much better job without the system, just by knowing how to
> drive.
> 
> -The Roxter

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 22:51:50 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 23:51:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4A600366.6090406@gmail.com>

Max Heim wrote:
> The thing about braking is that in front-engined pre-ABS cars, the rear
> tires will lock up before the fronts under hard braking, no matter what
> silly mix of tires you have. So I want the good rubber on the front where it
> will actually contribute to stopping the car (without locking up), rather
> than on the back where it will merely flatspot and become bad rubber.
Part of that is the weight transfer, taking weight off the back wheels and piling it up on the front under hard braking.


-The Roxter
--

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 01:55:26 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 08:55:26 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><4D16ED44BFA24095A3D175CA9ADF7669@Three>
	<DB7E54B6D5754D74BAB192FD5C898559@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <5EB99D0B3B7943E6B2646FAD4552E623@Three>

If you have the metal dash you can remove the bolts without removing or
loosening the dashboard as a whole, just undo the bolt and screws that hold
the glovebox fibreboard and push that back for access that side, and on RHD
cars removing the fuel gauge and overdrive switch allows you to get at the
bolts that side with the socket handle sticking through the fuel gauge space.
Don't know about padded dash or LHD, if you have to pull the dash forward
there are a set of bolts along the top and above the steering wheel, access
only from behind.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Also, can the 4 bolts which attach the assembly to the body be installed w/o
  removing the dash? If not how best to move the dash far enough to reach
  these 4 bolts?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 02:08:27 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 09:08:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
References: <C683A7C8.22273%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><4D16ED44BFA24095A3D175CA9ADF7669@Three>
	<4A5F7C5A.7050105@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <84E17457D88445D29C54C38C510BAAC4@Three>

Surely the purpose of *any* anti-lock system is to allow the driver to steer
while 'panic' braking?  However it's my contention that in an incident that
has caused the driver to slam on the brakes and make them lock/cause the ABS
to operate they aren't going to be in a fit mental state to think about
steering round the obstruction, most people just freeze.  I hated the ABS
systems on two cars from the late 80s early 90s I had, came on far too readily
and severely reduced retardation compared to the MGBs on the same roads and
conditions.  My 2004 ZS seems much better, I don't think I have had it operate
in two years, despite trying  in the wet when I test-drove the car.  I was a
passenger in a car on a cradle used to demonstrate skidding and ABS and the
driver tried to show how much better ABS was than cadence braking.  It was,
but his idea of cadence braking was to put the brakes on and off at about half
the speed of turn signals.  Personally I've always pumped them pretty-much as
fast as I can, certainly much faster than turn signals.  The big problem is
that new drivers aren't taught to recognise when something goes wrong, and
that includes skidding as well as vehicle malfunction, not even what the ABS
feels like, nor what to do when it does, hence the panic and confusion when
something like that happens.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ... We used brake tapping to stop much quicker and retain steering, even on
ice. Too bad new drivers don't learn this. They will tend to try to steer away
from an obstacle while hard braking. This just might work with a really good
antilock system...

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 02:33:49 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 09:33:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
References: <73CB9B40E612428186712C063D3BD2D9@dean99aueu177z>
Message-ID: <9C0D344D6FB344B2B9F8C49DF571BB50@Three>

Push-pull?  Still available in the UK e.g.
http://www.leacymg.co.uk/index.php?product_id=492374&option=Prod_detail&categ
ory_id=88198.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Anyone have suggestions where I might locate a headlight switch for an MGB?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 02:46:29 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 09:46:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <AD2FD6AA0B2B47D0B213ABB10823D0CD@Three>

That certainly shouldn't be the case in any car.  The rear brake force is
designed to prevent that happening, either by having a proportioning valve
like when it was drums all round, or by selecting the bore of the rear slave
cylinders in the case of disc front and drum rear like the MGB.  The GT
(except V8) has larger bore slave cylinders as with the extra weight it can
take more rear brake force before locking than can the roadster.  If you get
rear locking on any car something is wrong, i.e. a silly mix of tyres.  Lock
the rears at any time and the rear of the car is very likely to swing one way
or the other.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  The thing about braking is that in front-engined pre-ABS cars, the rear
  tires will lock up before the fronts under hard braking

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 03:07:45 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:07:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E867BB3DCFFA4B69888ED2CF608F04B9@Three>

That certainly shouldn't be the case in any car.  The front and rear brake
forces are designed to prevent that happening precisely because of the weight
transfer under braking, either by having a proportioning valve like when it
was drums all round, or by selecting the relative sizes of rear slaves and
front slaves or calipers like on the MGB.  Some French cars have a variable
proportioning valve controlled by the suspension height difference, front to
rear.  The end result is that you can only have a relatively small proportion
of the braking effort on the rear with four-wheel brakes, which is why the
concept of a handbrake or parking brake being an 'emergency' brake is
ridiculous, the phrase 'merely impeding progress' comes to mind.  The GT
(except V8) has larger bore slave cylinders as with the extra weight it can
take more rear brake force before locking than can the roadster.  If you get
rear locking on any car something is wrong, i.e. a silly mix of tyres,
contaminated pads/discs, defective calipers etc.  Lock the rears at any time
and the rear of the car is very likely to swing one way or the other.
Incidentally if you bang on the brakes you will lock the fronts much more
easily than if you use progressive braking which allows some weight transfer
to occur before applying the brakes harder.  And gradually releasing the
brakes as you come to a stop avoids the jerk at the end ...

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  The thing about braking is that in front-engined pre-ABS cars, the rear
  tires will lock up before the fronts under hard braking

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Jul 17 09:03:10 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 00:33:10 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <E867BB3DCFFA4B69888ED2CF608F04B9@Three>
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E867BB3DCFFA4B69888ED2CF608F04B9@Three>
Message-ID: <4A6092AE.9060405@erickson.on.net>

Paul Hunt wrote:
> Lock the rears at any time
> and the rear of the car is very likely to swing one way or the other.
> 

What?  Like this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBIePst4upk&NR=1

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Jul 17 09:35:44 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:35:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <4A6092AE.9060405@erickson.on.net>
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E867BB3DCFFA4B69888ED2CF608F04B9@Three>
	<4A6092AE.9060405@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <171B2AA4-425C-477B-8613-E599EB76DE6F@gmail.com>

Who would do such a thing! :-)

Wasn't that just after you put disc brakes in back but the bias wasn't  
right?

On Jul 17, 2009, at 10:03 AM, Eric Erickson wrote:

> Paul Hunt wrote:
>> Lock the rears at any time
>> and the rear of the car is very likely to swing one way or the other.
>
> What?  Like this?
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBIePst4upk&NR=1

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 09:22:12 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:22:12 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><E867BB3DCFFA4B69888ED2CF608F04B9@Three>
	<4A6092AE.9060405@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <9FC83AE5D392417D932A8E8444563560@Three>

That's about it, although judging by the sequence of stills all four were
locked-up.  More run-off than on a public road though :o)

Hope it isn't as cloudy as that when we get there next Feb ...

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  Paul Hunt wrote:
  > Lock the rears at any time
  > and the rear of the car is very likely to swing one way or the other.
  >

  What?  Like this?

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBIePst4upk&NR=1

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 10:00:17 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:00:17 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><E867BB3DCFFA4B69888ED2CF608F04B9@Three><4A6092AE.9060405@erickson.on.net>
	<171B2AA4-425C-477B-8613-E599EB76DE6F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2BB8495C47904251B1864971CDAFA5BC@Three>

Or the opposite which is to upgrade the front brakes without doing anything to
the rears and end up with *less* overall braking effort than before!
  ----- Original Message -----


  Wasn't that just after you put disc brakes in back but the bias wasn't
  right?

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Jul 17 09:57:08 2009
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 01:27:08 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Tires (or lack of same)
In-Reply-To: <9FC83AE5D392417D932A8E8444563560@Three>
References: <C6852585.222F6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><E867BB3DCFFA4B69888ED2CF608F04B9@Three>
	<4A6092AE.9060405@erickson.on.net>
	<9FC83AE5D392417D932A8E8444563560@Three>
Message-ID: <4A609F54.20004@erickson.on.net>

Paul Hunt wrote:
> That's about it, although judging by the sequence of stills all four 
> were locked-up.  More run-off than on a public road though :o)
>  
> Hope it isn't as cloudy as that when we get there next Feb ...
>  

Yes, there was LOTS of tyre smoke so the fronts locked - but it was the 
rears locking which threw me off the track.

Cloudy?  Don't worry - out that way (wheat and sheep area) they don't 
get much rain.  Anyway, we race during Winter and February ain't Winter. 
  Even in Winter we rarely get wet tracks.

> Wasn't that just after you put disc brakes in back but the bias wasn't right?

Mate I have a few videos of me doing similar silly stuff at that corner. 
  The worst was when I had NO adjustable brake bias and had just 
installed the rear discs.  Now THAT was full rears locking up (like 
pulling the handbrake on) at just under 100mph.

In that video I just outbraked myself. As you can see from the photos I 
had an Alfa right on my rear bumper.  My engine wasn't performing well 
and in the heat of the moment I thought the only way to get any sort of 
a gap on him was to... BRAKE LATER THAN HIM.

He would have seen the smoke and grinned (well, he might have initially 
muttered a rude word as he concentrated on missing me).

So yes, rear brake lockups can have an unpredictable affect on the 
handling of the car at speed.

In the middle (for 6 months) of building my new, bigger, better and 
faster engine I have just purchased a new set of front brakes of another 
racer's car.  4 pot Rover calipers, vented rotors.  If that doesn't stop 
me NOTHING will.



Eric

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 17 14:03:43 2009
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:03:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB
References: <73CB9B40E612428186712C063D3BD2D9@dean99aueu177z>
Message-ID: <04A2ACE756D94B0E96266F66D8519529@frankdcczr6l6k>

Have you tried the MG Owners' Club in England? I get many NLA parts from 
them.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deano" <deano at cox.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 3:32 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Switch 67 MGB


> Anyone have suggestions where I might locate a headlight switch for an 
> MGB?
> It's no longer available from Moss, VB, etc.  Thanks.  Dean

From twobees at sprynet.com  Fri Jul 17 14:09:32 2009
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:09:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ALMS Qualifying at LRP on Speed TV Streaming
Message-ID: <007601ca071a$804d1580$6401a8c0@normoffice>

I'm watching the qualifying from Lime Rock.  Great racing.  BUT...who is
that screaming jerk they have announcing???  He's so bad it sounds like the
7 PM TV shows that scream the nonsense Hollywood news.
 
Norm Sippel
'59 Turner
'60 Alfa

From dontoy at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 16:30:59 2009
From: dontoy at comcast.net (DONALD TOY)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 18:30:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Grand Prix
Message-ID: <77CC09B1957B4BCC8BD05A685F6D185B@DONALDTOY>

Any listers heading off to Pittsburgh for the Vintage Grand Prix?

Don Toy
1954 MG TF (Rebuilt transmission reinstalled, reversed transmission mount
corrected :^I )
2000 Land Rover Discovery II (dash fully illuminated by multiple warning
lights)
Multiple and sundry Saabs of early 90's vintage.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 18 02:18:51 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 09:18:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] ALMS Qualifying at LRP on Speed TV Streaming
References: <007601ca071a$804d1580$6401a8c0@normoffice>
Message-ID: <E195CDDBF48441ACB955D9AD0B2B41F8@Three>

Sounds the same as James Allen who was co-commentating with Martin Brundle
while ITV had the contract.  Before that he chipped-in with news from the
pit-lane from time to time and he seemed to do a good job.  Now BBC have it
back again (and a *proper* signature tune) he's been ditched altogether, thank
goodness.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ...  BUT...who is
  that screaming jerk they have announcing???

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Sat Jul 18 10:59:53 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 12:59:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB transmission
In-Reply-To: <76664a460907161548m898b91av19523f59ab97ca26@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83EE8409D2754C91BEDA9F75B6468885@DONALDTOY>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593CFAE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<76664a460907161548m898b91av19523f59ab97ca26@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A61FF89.1090601@snet.net>

Early MGB 3-synchro transmissions have some interest among MGA owners 
who want to upgrade the 2nd gear (I think) synchro.  Mine has that 
upgrade from the last rebuild at Quantum Mechanics.  But 4-synchro units 
seem to be worth little.  I have two that I don't need.

Steve wrote:
> agreed, I have two non-od units that I got for free...  Now I need to
> build a storage system so it's costing me to have them.
>
> On Thursday, July 16, 2009, Councill, David <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
> wrote:
>   
>> The value of the standard transmission is minimal. I have seen them
>> offered for as much as $50 but I got mine for free from someone who also
>> wanted to get it out of his garage at the same time I happened to be
>> travelling in that area. Now it is in my son's garage until I can get to
>> it.
>>
>> David Councill
>> 67 BGT
>> 72 B
>> 73 B
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of DONALD TOY
>> Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 1:35 PM
>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mgs] MGB transmission
>>
>> Hiya listers,
>> A good friend and former list member in Indiana, PA has a 1972 MGB
>> transmission that he'd like to get out of his garage. He took it out
>> only
>> because he came across a very nice overdrive unit. Anyone have any idea
>> of
>> what he should be asking? You can reply to me and I will forward any
>> responses
>> to him. Thanks in advance.
>> On a related transmission note... I just got the transmission back for
>> my TF
>> after a rebuild. I took it to a gentleman who was the MG mechanic at
>> Lombard
>> Motors in Monroeville, PA when it was an MG dealership, then Saab, then
>> boats,
>> then ATV's, then finally a Florist shop. He's never left the basement
>> garage.
>> Ok OK he's gone home at night.  He still does maintenance on the
>> florists
>> fleet of vehicles. Anyway he charged me less than $100. (like 1/2). :^P
>> I just
>> wish it was in time to put it all back together for the Vintage Gran
>> Prix this
>> weekend. I doubt it. Thanks again. Safety Fast.
>> Don Toy
>> 1954 MGTF
>> 2000 Land Rover Discovery
>> Various and sundry SAABs of early 90's vintage
>>
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>
>> You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jul 18 12:06:04 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 12:06:04 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA wanted
Message-ID: <4A620F0C.9040704@bradakis.com>

Do any of you know of a decent looking, driveable MGA for sale
in the southern california area?

mjb.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 18 14:24:18 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:24:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] It's Alive!!!
Message-ID: <360934.41741.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

For the first time in 3 years, this happened today......

http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view&current=P7180067-1.flv

http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view&current=P7180068.flv

You recall all of the strange electrical problems related to starting I had been having..... I had the battery recharged earlier this
week, and today was the first chance I had to mess a round with it. I put the battery in, turned the key and voila! Strong cranking
power! Cranked it several times to build up the oil pressure, plug the coil cable back in and it started almost before I could
turn the key! So I guess the net is, there is no substitute for 12 volts from your own battery! I think that combined with cleaning
up the connections is what did the trick! 

So I took the tires off and took them for air, reattached the crossmember underneath (had loosened it to get to the earth strap,
which I still have to get a better connection on), put the stabilizer rod back on the trans, and off I went for a quick blast around
the block!

SERIOUS THANKS to everyone that responded to my many questions about 'lectricity and using the basic tools of the trade.
Now I can get cracking on the small things keeping me from driving the car more often. But I'll post about those separately....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 18 18:44:10 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 17:44:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The Next Task - High Idle
Message-ID: <838596.80188.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

So the '76 B that is now moving again, has a very high idle, like 2000 rpm. Doesn't seem to settle down when
warm, although I admittedly haven't run the car long enough to get it very warm... I am going to dig up and read
John Twist's article ('These Damn Zenith-Stromberg Carbs') but figured I would ask about any BTDT's. I put
Marvel Mystery oil into the dashpot of the Z-S carb but probably need to check the level. 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sat Jul 18 22:37:48 2009
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 0:37:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG died this evening
Message-ID: <20090719003748.EAF8G.346470.imail@eastrmwml41>

Tonight was such a beautiful evening here in the Norfolk VA. area that we
decided to take the 71 MGB out for a drive, in the middle of our enjoyment
driving the :B" the MG just quit, I lost all electrical power to the dash,
easy fix thought I, battery cable loose I'm thinking, so I checked the battery
cable both clamps are nice and clean and tight, I take my test light check the
battery full light on the tester, next step was the fuse box, I checked again
with my test light , I had power to the bottom fuse, no power to any of the
other fuses, checked the coil no power there either, took my white and brown
wire from the starter relay and put it on the bottom fuse car turned over but
no start, (no juice, power, at the coil, I had no headlights, no radio no
blinker but I my trunk light worked, next think I looked at was the ignition
switch connection, no power at the switch either, any suggestion would be
gratefully accepted, AAA towed the car to my place and tomorrow I plan on
revisiting the issue and hopefully be able to locate the problem (s).
Thanking all of you in advance
Bernie
71MGB

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Jul 19 00:18:20 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 08:18:20 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] MG died this evening
References: <20090719003748.EAF8G.346470.imail@eastrmwml41>
Message-ID: <F82E09EB2D114927B8FE651BD8E0E948@uw471de61b465c>

The fusebox itself maybe faulty.
The riveted spade connectors maube corroded and not providing good contacts 
anymore.
I replaced the fusebox once for this problem.

fwiw

Cheers,

Hans 71 BGT


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bernd" <1971mgb at cox.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 6:37 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MG died this evening


> Tonight was such a beautiful evening here in the Norfolk VA. area that we
> decided to take the 71 MGB out for a drive, in the middle of our enjoyment
> driving the :B" the MG just quit, I lost all electrical power to the dash,
> easy fix thought I, battery cable loose I'm thinking, so I checked the 
> battery
> cable both clamps are nice and clean and tight, I take my test light check 
> the
> battery full light on the tester, next step was the fuse box, I checked 
> again
> with my test light , I had power to the bottom fuse, no power to any of 
> the
> other fuses, checked the coil no power there either, took my white and 
> brown
> wire from the starter relay and put it on the bottom fuse car turned over 
> but
> no start, (no juice, power, at the coil, I had no headlights, no radio no
> blinker but I my trunk light worked, next think I looked at was the 
> ignition
> switch connection, no power at the switch either, any suggestion would be
> gratefully accepted, AAA towed the car to my place and tomorrow I plan on
> revisiting the issue and hopefully be able to locate the problem (s).
> Thanking all of you in advance
> Bernie
> 71MGB 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 19 03:15:34 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:15:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] It's Alive!!!
References: <360934.41741.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E04D931C425245428DD6581D984B9127@Three>

I bet that felt great, and it got back under it's own power too!

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  For the first time in 3 years, this happened today......

  http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?
action=view&current=P7180067-1.flv

  http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?
action=view&current=P7180068.flv

From mjanacek at snet.net  Sun Jul 19 03:59:21 2009
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 05:59:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Next Task - High Idle
In-Reply-To: <838596.80188.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <838596.80188.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A62EE79.8080805@snet.net>

A few things to check:
Broken throttle cable strands preventing the return to idle.
Poppet valve on butterfly not closing all the way.
Butterfly misaligned on throttle shaft.

Mike
'79B

Dan DiBiase wrote:
> So the '76 B that is now moving again, has a very high idle, like 2000 rpm. Doesn't seem to settle down when
> warm, although I admittedly haven't run the car long enough to get it very warm... I am going to dig up and read
> John Twist's article ('These Damn Zenith-Stromberg Carbs') but figured I would ask about any BTDT's. I put
> Marvel Mystery oil into the dashpot of the Z-S carb but probably need to check the level. 
>
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 19 03:43:55 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:43:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] The Next Task - High Idle
References: <838596.80188.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <594A75FD7B914FC6A8AEAC9A71B79F27@Three>

You should always be able to slow the idle to a stall with the idle screw.  If
you can't something else is holding the butterfly open.  A vacuum leak is
often mentioned, but whilst that will cause a high idle *for a given throttle
opening* you should still be able to adjust it out with the idle screw, as the
engine can't run on air alone.  If it is running then some fuel must be
getting past the butterfly.  In extreme cases wear in the butterfly spindle
and bushes can allow mixture to get past an otherwise fully closed butterfly,
but that is easily detectable by waggling the shaft up and down.

Make sure you have some free play in the throttle cable with the pedal
released, you don't want the butterfly hanging on the cable.  As well as an
adjustment either on the inner or the outer at the carb end there is also an
adjustable stop at the pedal.  With a combination of these two you adjust
things so that the pedal *just* hits the floor or stop as the carb is fully
opened, but leaves a smidgen of slack in the cable when it is released.

If not those try pressing the spindle down by hand.  If that stalls it then
the shaft or butterfly is sticking.  You can also get the butterfly
mis-aligned on the shaft so it isn't fully closing off the throat, about the
only way to check this is to remove the carb and squint through it against a
light.  If the butterfly is the wrong way round this can happen, it usually
has chamfered edges where it closes to the throat.  It can also have a notch
in one edge which must be the right way up.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----


    So the '76 B that is now moving again, has a very high idle, like 2000
rpm.
  .

  __,_._,___

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 19 04:16:51 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:16:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG died this evening
References: <20090719003748.EAF8G.346470.imail@eastrmwml41>
Message-ID: <D5687849B79842308D6B9A5F285CAC37@Three>

There are no fuses involved in either starting or running and MGB engine - at
least with factory wiring.  From 1973 power to the coil is a daisy-chain from
the ignition switch to the white side of the fusebox and from there to the
coil so a bad connection could cause this problem, but for a 1971 the power to
the coil goes from the ignition switch via the tach pickup, nowhere near the
fusebox.

If you lost the engine *and* the dash gauges, then that says to me that the
problem is very close to the ignition switch, the switch itself, or the brown
feed to it.  The bottom fuse is fed from the brown circuit so if that had
power that part of the brown circuit at least is OK i.e. it isn't battery
connections.  However a North American 1971 has two brown wires coming off the
solenoid, one feeds the fusebox and starter relay, and the other the ignition
switch, lighting switch and hazards fuse, so if one of these brown wires has
fallen off the solenoid or is making a bad connection it would cause this
problem.

Incidentally if you had bridged the bottom two fuses in the fusebox with the
ignition switch on you almost certainly would have been able to start the
engine and drive the car home with everything working as it should, removing
the link to stop the engine.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  ... I had power to the bottom fuse, no power to any of the
  other fuses, checked the coil no power there either ...

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 12:43:01 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 13:43:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG died this evening
In-Reply-To: <20090719003748.EAF8G.346470.imail@eastrmwml41>
References: <20090719003748.EAF8G.346470.imail@eastrmwml41>
Message-ID: <4A636935.30807@gmail.com>

Bernd wrote:
> Tonight was such a beautiful evening here in the Norfolk VA. area that we
> decided to take the 71 MGB out for a drive, in the middle of our enjoyment
> driving the :B" the MG just quit, I lost all electrical power to the dash,
> easy fix thought I, battery cable loose I'm thinking, so I checked the battery
> cable both clamps are nice and clean and tight, I take my test light check the
> battery full light on the tester, next step was the fuse box, I checked again
> with my test light , I had power to the bottom fuse, no power to any of the
> other fuses, checked the coil no power there either, took my white and brown
> wire from the starter relay and put it on the bottom fuse car turned over but
> no start, (no juice, power, at the coil, I had no headlights, no radio no
> blinker but I my trunk light worked, next think I looked at was the ignition
> switch connection, no power at the switch either, any suggestion would be
> gratefully accepted, AAA towed the car to my place and tomorrow I plan on
> revisiting the issue and hopefully be able to locate the problem (s).
> Thanking all of you in advance
This is not likely your problem, but I though I would throw it in here. Lead oxide looks just like lead, but it's an insulator, so It might be a good idea to remove and scrape the terminals and clamps with a sharp knife. If this happened to me, I would trace one of the dead circuits back to the battery with a meter.

-The Roxter
--

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sun Jul 19 15:24:29 2009
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 17:24:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG died this evening
In-Reply-To: <4A636935.30807@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090719172429.RQH1L.370776.imail@eastrmwml44>

Thanks to all who answered, Paul you were dead on, the wire to the terminal on the solenoid had broken off, put a new female end on, problem solved. Roxter I noticed that my terminal were pretty well corroded with the passing of time, tomorrow I'm going under the car and clean all the terminals.
Thanks again
Bernie
71 MGB

 
---- The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Bernd wrote:
> > Tonight was such a beautiful evening here in the Norfolk VA. area that we
> > decided to take the 71 MGB out for a drive, in the middle of our enjoyment
> > driving the :B" the MG just quit, I lost all electrical power to the dash,
> > easy fix thought I, battery cable loose I'm thinking, so I checked the battery
> > cable both clamps are nice and clean and tight, I take my test light check the
> > battery full light on the tester, next step was the fuse box, I checked again
> > with my test light , I had power to the bottom fuse, no power to any of the
> > other fuses, checked the coil no power there either, took my white and brown
> > wire from the starter relay and put it on the bottom fuse car turned over but
> > no start, (no juice, power, at the coil, I had no headlights, no radio no
> > blinker but I my trunk light worked, next think I looked at was the ignition
> > switch connection, no power at the switch either, any suggestion would be
> > gratefully accepted, AAA towed the car to my place and tomorrow I plan on
> > revisiting the issue and hopefully be able to locate the problem (s).
> > Thanking all of you in advance
> This is not likely your problem, but I though I would throw it in here. Lead oxide looks just like lead, but it's an insulator, so It might be a good idea to remove and scrape the terminals and clamps with a sharp knife. If this happened to me, I would trace one of the dead circuits back to the battery with a meter.
> 
> -The Roxter
> --
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as 1971mgb at cox.net
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
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> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 20 01:46:33 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:46:33 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG died this evening
References: <20090719172429.RQH1L.370776.imail@eastrmwml44>
Message-ID: <B0BF0E45D92249F48BC6D0C778BFBA68@Three>

Excellent!
  ----- Original Message -----


  Thanks to all who answered, Paul you were dead on, the wire to the terminal
on the solenoid had broken off, put a new female end on, problem solved.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 20 06:07:37 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 05:07:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] The Next Task - High Idle
In-Reply-To: <1251959329.2950441247978040237.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1251959329.2950441247978040237.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <426128.61653.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well, I lowered the idle by simply adjusting the idle screw. I need to check the auto choke (water choke on my car)
but at least it's a little more drivable now.

So I have about 1/2 tank of gas in the car - from 3 years ago! I don't really have the facility to drain it, so I am wondering 
if I should just add more (fresh) gas to fill it, or should I use some sort of additive? Dry gas? I don't really want to do any
tuning until I have the old gas mostly used up. 

Some video of my sons driving the car - http://dans76b.blogspot.com/   They enjoyed it!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 20 06:22:21 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:22:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] The Next Task - High Idle
References: <1251959329.2950441247978040237.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<426128.61653.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7DF1C60140B644328BC233B1CF7A3BBE@Three>

It ran, so use it!  Fill up, then drive it all off.  Repeat. :o)

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  So I have about 1/2 tank of gas in the car - from 3 years ago! I don't
really have the facility to drain it...

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Mon Jul 20 12:11:33 2009
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:11:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] tire valve stem caps
Message-ID: <CA1D172A-8F44-4D0D-8546-42618BBA8F1B@duvallvideo.com>

Someone ripped off two of my older style valve stem caps from my TD at  
a car show.  They left me 2 modern round chrome ones.  Does anyone  
have a source for the older style metal caps?  I can't find them  
anywhere.

Thanks,  Mike

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Jul 20 14:24:31 2009
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:24:31 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] The Next Task - High Idle
References: <1251959329.2950441247978040237.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<426128.61653.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <711BC9F47C88472299BAD38424629AC6@uw471de61b465c>

Well done Dan!

I can remember my 71 GT firing up the 1st time after 10 years of the 
purchase date...

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] The Next Task - High Idle


> Well, I lowered the idle by simply adjusting the idle screw. I need to 
> check the auto choke (water choke on my car)
> but at least it's a little more drivable now.
>
> So I have about 1/2 tank of gas in the car - from 3 years ago! I don't 
> really have the facility to drain it, so I am wondering
> if I should just add more (fresh) gas to fill it, or should I use some 
> sort of additive? Dry gas? I don't really want to do any
> tuning until I have the old gas mostly used up.
>
> Some video of my sons driving the car - http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ 
> They enjoyed it!
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/

From Walkersteve at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 15:16:54 2009
From: Walkersteve at comcast.net (Steve Walker)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 17:16:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Four post lift (not LBC specific)
References: <CA1D172A-8F44-4D0D-8546-42618BBA8F1B@duvallvideo.com>
Message-ID: <013701ca097f$684e50e0$0802a8c0@Dell2>

I have used this four post, free standing lift for ten years as winter 
storage for my (recently sold) '78 MGB. Someone on this list said they would 
be interested if it came up for sale, but I've lost the e-mail (probably 2 
years old, from Tennesse, I think). So, it's available, works for MGB's (LBC 
content), and is in MA. Please respond off list if interested, and I'll send 
you a website link with pictures and info.

Thanks

Steve Walker

ex- 78 MGB LE   :-(

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Tue Jul 21 17:33:27 2009
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 19:33:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Free Bumpers (FT and Rear)
Message-ID: <A593E7D4EB1644B4A22DEEB596C7E260@RickPC>

I received the below email - I assume the bumpers are chrome and not rubber -
if anyone has an interest email or call Seth

Regards

Rick
 Webmaster for:
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/amgcr - American MGC Register
  http://www.flamemini.net - Florida mini Enthusiasts
  http://www.britishcarclub.net -  Nature Coast English Car Club and The
Suncoast Classic MG Club
----- Original Message -----
From: Seth Frank
To: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 16:17


Hello Rick

     My name is Seth Frank I recently purchased a home in Lake Tahoe.  Much to
my surprise i found a front & rear bumber for an MG under my deck.  They are
in fair shape & was wandering if these items would be needed.  (how is
availability)  I'm not looking to sell them But if you knew someone who needed
them & wanted to pay the shipping i would be more than happy to part with them
rather than take them to the dump.  please let me know.  if you need pictures
i can do that.

Seth Frank
530-308-4475

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Tue Jul 21 17:36:16 2009
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 19:36:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Free Bumpers
Message-ID: <1B45E30AAD6B4FC69E19B9B4D2F92913@RickPC>

Sorry - Seth's email is bonk7734 at hotmail.com

Rick
 Webmaster for:
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/amgcr - American MGC Register
  http://www.flamemini.net - Florida mini Enthusiasts
  http://www.britishcarclub.net -  Nature Coast English Car Club and The
Suncoast Classic MG Club

From dontoy at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 08:50:58 2009
From: dontoy at comcast.net (DONALD TOY)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:50:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Gearbox Cowl
Message-ID: <491C235C635549F4831C2816EEBB6DD8@DONALDTOY>

Listers,
This is for those of you out there that have TF's. I've reinstalled the
rebuilt transmission, now I've got the "little stuff" to do. I've run into a
question. The shop manual says to disassemble, I was to take up the
floorboards then remove the gearbox cowl. Upon reassembling it seems as though
the floorboards should go down first, then the gearbox cowl. It would be nice
for the floorbards to sit on top of the inner egde of the cowl however. It
also seems as though there are bolts that i can only get to if i put the floor
down first. Which is correct: floor boards then cowl on top or cowl bolted up
with the floorboards on top. I'd like to get it right, this time. Thanks in
advance.
Don Toy
1954 MGTF
2000 Land Rover ( a monument to idiocy )
Various Saabs, blah, blah, blah

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 22 13:41:12 2009
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 12:41:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Triumph content - delete now if offended
Message-ID: <751498.874.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,

   Long time, no type.  I miss chatting with you guys.

   As some of you know, I traded my MGB for another car.  After
that I bought a '62 Triumph TR3b.  It is a car that I have been
trying to buy for over 10 years.  The lady finally agreed to my
last purchase request.  The roadster is a one-owner car, passed
down to his daughter, and now owned by me.

   I write today to tell you that I should be able to start the
car this weekend, the first time in 10-1/2 years!  All systems
have been rebuilt, all fluid-related bits have been cleaned or
rebuilt - or are new - and the electrics are tested good.  I'm
pretty excited to get the old girl ticking over.

   Just a bit of history; The car was parked 10+ years ago
because it had become unreliable.  Multiple trips to the
mechanic had produced no relief.  The problem appeared to be
fuel starvation but all components tested good.  A few days ago
I found the problem.  While rebuilding the fuel system, I
decided to rebuild the mechanical fuel pump.  When I opened the
pump, one of the two screws that retain the pump-valves was just
laying on the diaphragm!  The other screw was still in place
but was loose.  In short, the valves were not being held against
their gaskets and were therefore leaking.  Any time larger fuel requirements were put on the pump, it would under-supply.  
Therefore, at highway speeds - especially after spirited
acceleration - fuel starvation would occur, and the engine would
sputter and die.  After rolling to a stop, the owner could prime
the pump and at low fuel demand rates, the car would start and
seem to run just fine.

   So that's the story.  Thanks for 'the read' and thanks for 
sharing the excitement of bringing an old, neglected sports car
back to life!

regards,

Rick
'62 Triumph TR3b
'79 Ferrari 308GTB
'83 Ferrari Mondial QV
'03 Land Rover Discovery
'08 Mercedes C300

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Jul 22 17:09:42 2009
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 16:09:42 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Triumph content - delete now if offended
In-Reply-To: <751498.874.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <751498.874.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200907221609i593145aelbcc6b66fd626f419@mail.gmail.com>

I have a lot of sympathy for this. My first car was a Citroen and it
suffered from occasional fuel starvation problems.

Eventually, I tracked it down to a piece of the fuel filter that had
broken off and was floating in the carburettor. Occasionally, this
piece of plastic would float to somewhere that it would block one of
the jets, leading to fuel starvation. Since the piece of plastic was
transparent, it took me a while to find and remove it!

Simon

On Wed, Jul 22, 2009 at 12:41 PM, Rick Lindsay<rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
>   Just a bit of history; The car was parked 10+ years ago
> because it had become unreliable.  Multiple trips to the
> mechanic had produced no relief.  The problem appeared to be
> fuel starvation but all components tested good.  A few days ago
> I found the problem.  While rebuilding the fuel system, I
> decided to rebuild the mechanical fuel pump.  When I opened the
> pump, one of the two screws that retain the pump-valves was just
> laying on the diaphragm!  The other screw was still in place
> but was loose.  In short, the valves were not being held against
> their gaskets and were therefore leaking.  Any time larger fuel requirements
were put on the pump, it would under-supply.
> Therefore, at highway speeds - especially after spirited
> acceleration - fuel starvation would occur, and the engine would
> sputter and die.  After rolling to a stop, the owner could prime
> the pump and at low fuel demand rates, the car would start and
> seem to run just fine.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 22 17:19:34 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 16:19:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Triumph content - delete now if offended
In-Reply-To: <751498.874.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <751498.874.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <285335.79506.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Good deal, Rick, good luck with it! Strange that the PO would not have thought of replacing the
fuel pump.... I think you owe her more money, Rick! ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: MGS <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 3:41:12 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Triumph content - delete now if offended

Hello Friends,

   Long time, no type.  I miss chatting with you guys.

   As some of you know, I traded my MGB for another car.  After
that I bought a '62 Triumph TR3b.  It is a car that I have been
trying to buy for over 10 years.  The lady finally agreed to my
last purchase request.  The roadster is a one-owner car, passed
down to his daughter, and now owned by me.

   I write today to tell you that I should be able to start the
car this weekend, the first time in 10-1/2 years!  All systems
have been rebuilt, all fluid-related bits have been cleaned or
rebuilt - or are new - and the electrics are tested good.  I'm
pretty excited to get the old girl ticking over.

   Just a bit of history; The car was parked 10+ years ago
because it had become unreliable.  Multiple trips to the
mechanic had produced no relief.  The problem appeared to be
fuel starvation but all components tested good.  A few days ago
I found the problem.  While rebuilding the fuel system, I
decided to rebuild the mechanical fuel pump.  When I opened the
pump, one of the two screws that retain the pump-valves was just
laying on the diaphragm!  The other screw was still in place
but was loose.  In short, the valves were not being held against
their gaskets and were therefore leaking.  Any time larger fuel requirements were put on the pump, it would under-supply.  
Therefore, at highway speeds - especially after spirited
acceleration - fuel starvation would occur, and the engine would
sputter and die.  After rolling to a stop, the owner could prime
the pump and at low fuel demand rates, the car would start and
seem to run just fine.

   So that's the story.  Thanks for 'the read' and thanks for 
sharing the excitement of bringing an old, neglected sports car
back to life!

regards,

Rick
'62 Triumph TR3b
'79 Ferrari 308GTB
'83 Ferrari Mondial QV
'03 Land Rover Discovery
'08 Mercedes C300
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 07:46:54 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 09:46:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] manifold vacuum
References: <20090716.135404.4060.14.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <A0AA7E8EA71F4D028F68C03C96C3510A@Edscomputer>

List,

What's the expected manifold vacuum on the MGB at 900 rpm? Mine's reading 
16-17. Should it be rock steady or is a variation of 1 inch acceptable?

Anybody out there using a Pertronix distributor? With the vacuum advance 
connected, "idle" speed goes to 2000 and ignition advance to 30 degrees from 
a 7 degree advance when disconnected!

Ed Woods 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 07:56:06 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 09:56:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <20090716.135404.4060.14.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <2EB796E0638049BDA46C6193C31E0A77@Edscomputer>

Bob and List,

Windscreen is on the '72, but not w/o a Herculean struggle by 3 of us! I 
still don't know how we got the upper bolts started. A pair of forceps 
between the dash and body worked to start the upper bolt on the right hand 
side. I lay on my back, under the dash, seat removed, to start the upper 
driver's side bolt. What a chore.

I think I'm now only a brake bleed, assorted lenses, and a set of wiper 
blades away from being roadworthy.

This car has fought hard to remain at rest in my garage for another three 
years, but is finally giving ground, reluctantly.

Ed Woods

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul 23 09:08:09 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:08:09 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] manifold vacuum
References: <20090716.135404.4060.14.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<A0AA7E8EA71F4D028F68C03C96C3510A@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <793071776AD94CB99F1FB609CC3F5F34@Three>

Sounds about right, it depends on the damping as to how much flutter you get.
My Redex gauge has a damper screw on the pipe on the back of the gauge to
compress the tube and eliminate the fluttering for driving, you open this up
when tuning and diagnosing for greater sensitivity.  It's difficult to
describe the difference between flutter and pulsing due to a defect, except
the fluttering is regular whereas a downward pulse occurring just one beat in
four is a cylinder defect.  If you have fluttering and pulsing then you
probably do have a problem.

If you have manifold vacuum then *any* distributor will increase the speed and
advance with the vacuum connected at idle compared to disconnected, this is
because there is near full vacuum at idle with manifold vacuum, as opposed to
zero with carb vacuum.  16-17 degrees of vacuum is more than the maximum point
for any MGB distributor, which varies from 8 in Hg. to 15 in Hg, so you will
be at maximum vacuum advance, which can be anything from 6 to 24 *additional*
degrees.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----

  What's the expected manifold vacuum on the MGB at 900 rpm? Mine's reading
  16-17. Should it be rock steady or is a variation of 1 inch acceptable?

  Anybody out there using a Pertronix distributor? With the vacuum advance
  connected, "idle" speed goes to 2000 and ignition advance to 30 degrees from
  a 7 degree advance when disconnected!

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul 23 10:02:03 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:02:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] THE WOODSTOCK (NY) BRITISH CAR MEET - SATURDAY,
	SEPTEMBER  26th
Message-ID: <5251343.1248364923731.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

econd Annual
WOODSTOCK BRITISH CAR MEET
(British motorcycles & pre-1980 European cars invited too)

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER  26th  -  10:00AM to 4:PM
(Rain Date: Sunday, September 27)

AT THE WOODSTOCK PLAYHOUSE
Intersection of Route 212 and Route 375, Woodstock, NY

Join more than 100 British car owners for a smashing display of classic, 
quirky, and lovable British classics, right in the heart of Woodstock New 
York and the Catskill Mountains.

Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Projects-in-progress, daily drivers, 
and vintage racers are just as welcome as Concours quality show cars. 
If it's British, bring it!   The heart of the picturesque and historic hamlet of 
Woodstock is just a few minutes walk from the Playhouse, offering shops, 
restaurants, live music, & much more.

Cars will enter the field starting at 10:AM, and the fun goes on all day. 
Around 2 pm, we'll present awards, including People's Choice and the 
Longest Distance Traveled. Spectators are welcome -  FREE parking 
is available.

The registration fee for British cars is $15 per car at the gate; there is no 
pre-registration.  All of the proceeds from this event benefit the non-profit 
Woodstock Playhouse. non-profit Food and Refreshments will be available

DIRECTIONS
>From NYS Thruway / I-87: Take Exit 19 (Kingston) and head west on Route 
28 for 5.8 miles (Speed Trap - stay under 50 mph) then turn right onto Route 
375 North, which will end 2.9 miles later at Route 212 and the Playhouse.
>From Saugerties (Exit 20) Take Route 212 West into the hamlet of Woodstock.
The intersection of Route 375 will be on your left; the Playhouse entrance is on 
your right. From points west: Take Route 28 East to Route 375 North. Travel 
2.9 miles, and the road will end at Route 212 and the Playhouse.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: e-mail Woodstock.British at gmail.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 23 10:57:32 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 09:57:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
In-Reply-To: <2EB796E0638049BDA46C6193C31E0A77@Edscomputer>
References: <20090716.135404.4060.14.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<2EB796E0638049BDA46C6193C31E0A77@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <354969.91287.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Good deal, Ed! It's a toss-up between that and the replacement of the heater box in terms of 'worst jobs' on a B....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
To: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 9:56:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen

Bob and List,

Windscreen is on the '72, but not w/o a Herculean struggle by 3 of us! I still don't know how we got the upper bolts started. A pair of forceps between the dash and body worked to start the upper bolt on the right hand side. I lay on my back, under the dash, seat removed, to start the upper driver's side bolt. What a chore.

I think I'm now only a brake bleed, assorted lenses, and a set of wiper blades away from being roadworthy.

This car has fought hard to remain at rest in my garage for another three years, but is finally giving ground, reluctantly.

Ed Woods
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mg1948 at verizon.net  Thu Jul 23 14:19:27 2009
From: mg1948 at verizon.net (Phil Marcell)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 14:19:27 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] manifold vacuum
References: <20090716.135404.4060.14.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<A0AA7E8EA71F4D028F68C03C96C3510A@Edscomputer>
	<793071776AD94CB99F1FB609CC3F5F34@Three>
Message-ID: <7A4EBFD6CCD64B58853579AD0AA7AFE9@Phil>

Does anyone suggest gasket seaker on the maniforld gasket.  Mine leaks with 
a new rebuild & a Moss supercharger.

Phil
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] manifold vacuum


> Sounds about right, it depends on the damping as to how much flutter you 
> get.
> My Redex gauge has a damper screw on the pipe on the back of the gauge to
> compress the tube and eliminate the fluttering for driving, you open this 
> up
> when tuning and diagnosing for greater sensitivity.  It's difficult to
> describe the difference between flutter and pulsing due to a defect, 
> except
> the fluttering is regular whereas a downward pulse occurring just one beat 
> in
> four is a cylinder defect.  If you have fluttering and pulsing then you
> probably do have a problem.
>
> If you have manifold vacuum then *any* distributor will increase the speed 
> and
> advance with the vacuum connected at idle compared to disconnected, this 
> is
> because there is near full vacuum at idle with manifold vacuum, as opposed 
> to
> zero with carb vacuum.  16-17 degrees of vacuum is more than the maximum 
> point
> for any MGB distributor, which varies from 8 in Hg. to 15 in Hg, so you 
> will
> be at maximum vacuum advance, which can be anything from 6 to 24 
> *additional*
> degrees.
>
> PaulH.
>  ----- Original Message -----
>
>  What's the expected manifold vacuum on the MGB at 900 rpm? Mine's reading
>  16-17. Should it be rock steady or is a variation of 1 inch acceptable?
>
>  Anybody out there using a Pertronix distributor? With the vacuum advance
>  connected, "idle" speed goes to 2000 and ignition advance to 30 degrees 
> from
>  a 7 degree advance when disconnected!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as mg1948 at verizon.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 


-- 
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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 23 15:54:00 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 14:54:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] manifold vacuum
In-Reply-To: <7A4EBFD6CCD64B58853579AD0AA7AFE9@Phil>
Message-ID: <C68E2A08.22501%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

The problem with manifold sealing is usually due to unequal clamping force,
because of the way the washers are trying to hold down both the exhaust and
intake flanges. It doesn't work unless the flanges are precisely the same
thickness. Any mixing-and-matching of parts can cause a sealing problem.
Either precise shimming, or a little machine work, is called for.

Stripped studs or nuts can also be a problem, but you'd probably have
noticed that.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/23/09 1:19 PM, Phil Marcell at mg1948 at verizon.net wrote:

> Does anyone suggest gasket seaker on the maniforld gasket.  Mine leaks with
> a new rebuild & a Moss supercharger.
> 
> Phil

From lrc at red4est.com  Thu Jul 23 16:23:58 2009
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:23:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Pushrod and lifter lengths
Message-ID: <20090723222358.GE21716@red4est.com>

Does anyone have handy the lengths of the two different pushrods and
lifters (early and late) for MGB?

We're making progress on putting the motor back together. I think that
the pushrods are the only thing left for inside the motor, though I'm
seriously looking at going to a megasquirt for crankfire ignition
timing. 

First estimate is that between the aluminum head, flywheel, backing
plate and the lighter starter I'll save 50lbs off the motor. With the
HP supercharger and the Replika Maschinen ported aluminum head, I'm
hoping for over 100hp to the ground.

-- 
The first step is learning to take great photos, 
the second step is learning to throw away ones that are merely good.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jul 23 10:14:52 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:14:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
Message-ID: <20090724.194601.3988.0.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Ed,
   Thanks for sharing the good news. One wonders how windshields were
installed at the factory. Surely it could not have taken two or three
guys an hour to do it, yet that seems to be what we all experience.
   But it could be worse---Saturday a friend was installing new rubber on
his e-type original glass windscreen. It cracked. 
Bob



On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 09:56:06 -0400 "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
writes:
> Bob and List,
> 
> Windscreen is on the '72, but not w/o a Herculean struggle by 3 of 
> us! I 
> still don't know how we got the upper bolts started. A pair of 
> forceps 
> between the dash and body worked to start the upper bolt on the 
> right hand 
> side. I lay on my back, under the dash, seat removed, to start the 
> upper 
> driver's side bolt. What a chore.
> 
> I think I'm now only a brake bleed, assorted lenses, and a set of 
> wiper 
> blades away from being roadworthy.
> 
> This car has fought hard to remain at rest in my garage for another 
> three 
> years, but is finally giving ground, reluctantly.
> 
> Ed Woods
> 
> 
> 
> 
____________________________________________________________
Get the ultimate protection. Click now and get your own armored vehicle!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOUtTE7fTCaeFFmDClmnKV4obu9vGNRa3uaxMyoIr4cQqzxVhya1i/

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 25 06:17:43 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 08:17:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <20090724.194601.3988.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <6C17055CF5774031970E8950817143C2@Edscomputer>

Bob,

Don't you think that the windscreens were installed after the body was 
painted and before any of the interior? Without the dash, wiring, etc., it 
would be an easy task.

New back up light lenses and brake switch yesterday. New Lucas lenses used 
larger screws (#8 rather than the originals which appeared to be #6), so I 
had to retap the captive nuts. The brake switch had unusable connectors and 
wires a foot too long, so they had to be cut and new, correct terminals 
soldered on. Every 10 minute job take an hour and a half!

New wiper arms and blades today. I hope that the old motor has the torque to 
move them. A replacement wiper motor is on hand in case it doesn't.

Thanks for all your encouragement and assistance.

Best,

Ed

Ed
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen


> Hi Ed,
>   Thanks for sharing the good news. One wonders how windshields were
> installed at the factory. Surely it could not have taken two or three
> guys an hour to do it, yet that seems to be what we all experience.
>   But it could be worse---Saturday a friend was installing new rubber on
> his e-type original glass windscreen. It cracked.
> Bob
>
/ 

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 25 07:21:49 2009
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 06:21:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers
Message-ID: <481401.65442.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Fellow MGers;
Has anyone ever installed hood louvers in their MGB for the purposes of
lowering the under-hood temps?  If you have, I wouldn't mind hearing about any
comments/impressions on the install and their effect on under-hood temps.
Best Regards,Matt Milkevitch'74 MGB-GT

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 25 09:48:18 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 16:48:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <20090724.194601.3988.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<6C17055CF5774031970E8950817143C2@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <14DCAACED40E4870B8DF603F221122BF@Three>

Yes, because they arrived at Abingdon with the hoods/tops installed and
erected.  I doubt it would be that much easier without wiring and dash though,
having done it with new rubber twice the hardest job is getting the rubber
pulled forward and keeping it there while you press the frame down enough to
get at least one bolt each side installed.  With old rubber it just dropped in
to place and only took moments single-handed.  But harder then getting the
frame installed to the body is getting the frame screwed together around the
glass!

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Don't you think that the windscreens were installed after the body was
  painted and before any of the interior?

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Sat Jul 25 10:48:20 2009
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 09:48:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers
In-Reply-To: <481401.65442.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <481401.65442.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5DDB3D4B-C55C-4D6F-835C-F6D03188D0BC@sonic.net>

On Jul 25, 2009, at 6:21 AM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:

> Has anyone ever installed hood louvers in their MGB..

I sold a 1966 'B to a guy who did a lot of customization to the car  
including punching louvers into the alloy bonnet. Although they looked  
*really* nice, he later told me that they didn't do a whole lot to  
lower the air temp. He experimented by taping small tufts of yarn at  
different points on the louvers and then driving at various speeds,  
and discovered that the last two louvers nearest the cowl actually  
pulled air in rather than providing an exit for air. He had 8 or so  
(can't remember) louvers stamped on each side near the outside edge of  
the back of the bonnet, perhaps 8 or 10 inches from the cowl. Sort of  
like on a Jaguar E-Type. He had them done by a local custom shop with  
a louver punch and they did a very nice job. Perhaps the location of  
the louvers would make more of a difference, but how would you  
experiment? My old XKE had the louver patches on the bonnet and it  
seemed that heat came roaring out of them. (especially the time the  
electric radiator fan died!)
--
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB

From barrie at look.ca  Sat Jul 25 11:03:55 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 13:03:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers
In-Reply-To: <5DDB3D4B-C55C-4D6F-835C-F6D03188D0BC@sonic.net>
References: <481401.65442.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<5DDB3D4B-C55C-4D6F-835C-F6D03188D0BC@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <E1MUkfQ-0007Jl-2m@epsilon.look.ca>

I believe that nearest the bottom of the screen is low pressure so 
air will be sucked down into body - that is why the cool air vent for 
your feet is there.  Makes sense when you eyeball the shape.  But the 
engine bay area is too far away for louvers on the bonnet to work.


At 12:48 PM 7/25/2009, Rod Williams wrote:
>On Jul 25, 2009, at 6:21 AM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
>
>>Has anyone ever installed hood louvers in their MGB..
>
>I sold a 1966 'B to a guy who did a lot of customization to the car
>including punching louvers into the alloy bonnet. Although they looked
>*really* nice, he later told me that they didn't do a whole lot to
>lower the air temp. He experimented by taping small tufts of yarn at
>different points on the louvers and then driving at various speeds,
>and discovered that the last two louvers nearest the cowl actually
>pulled air in rather than providing an exit for air. He had 8 or so
>(can't remember) louvers stamped on each side near the outside edge of
>the back of the bonnet, perhaps 8 or 10 inches from the cowl. Sort of
>like on a Jaguar E-Type. He had them done by a local custom shop with
>a louver punch and they did a very nice job. Perhaps the location of
>the louvers would make more of a difference, but how would you
>experiment? My old XKE had the louver patches on the bonnet and it
>seemed that heat came roaring out of them. (especially the time the
>electric radiator fan died!)
>--
>Rod Williams
>Petaluma, California
>1967 MGB
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Sat Jul 25 12:04:06 2009
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 14:04:06 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Big British Car Show July 26, 2009 only 60 mi north of LA, CA.
Message-ID: <cbe.4219f4c4.379ca316@aol.com>

 Announcing:
The 19th Annual Ventura County British Car Show 
All Day  Sunday July 26th 2009--9 AM until 3 PM   
~ or until ~
After the Award Presentation ceremony has concluded 
Where:  The Channel Islands Yacht  Harbor
3600  Harbor Blvd---Oxnard Beach, CA  
CELEBRATING THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE  ORIGINAL
"MINI" WHICH DEBUTED IN 1959 THIS WILL BE THE FEATURED
MARQUE OF  THE SHOW..BOTH ORIGINAL AND NEW MINI'S  
WELCOME!
The revolutionary car designed by Alec Issigonis. With it's  
Transverse mounted engine it would change the way small cars
would be  built. 
Even now if you were to look under the bonnet of any small or  midrange
Car you'd see the engine sits "transversely"  rather than  lengthwise!
We expect to have over 200 beautiful examples of British  automobiles 
Sports Cars, Touring Cars, Luxury cars and Passenger cars, Vans,  P/U
Shooting  brakes (Station wagons) and British motorcycles! All  British 
Marques welcome
$35 dollar entry fee. Free viewing bring the  family spend the day. Entry
tickets available Day of show depending on if  show has been sold out or 
not!
Plenty of Parking Car Show located in a  beautiful park like setting right 
on
Water front of Small boat and Yacht  Harbor Go to Club Website to see 
photos 
Past Shows: _www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com_ 
(http://www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com)   Also printable (PDF)entry 
forms available. Oxnard, CA is only 60  miles north of Los Angeles, CA take 
either
US 101 or PCH 1 get off at either Victoria Blvd West or Vineyard  Blvd to W 
5th St. 
to Harbor Blvd. from North exit at Seaward Blvd in Ventura take Harbor Blvd 
 to
Channel Islands Harbor Oxnard. MapQuest or Google Search Channel  Islands
Harbor at 3600 Harbor Blvd  Oxnard CA. Major Cross Street: Channel  Islands 
Blvd. 
Remember: Daily Drivers welcome if it's yours its beautiful! Swap meet  
Booths 
available..contact Dave Wellwood at numbers below! 
-------------------------------------------# #  
#---------------------------------------------
Call Bill Guzman at (805)  484-1528 email: _bg.gtv6 at verizon.net_ 
(mailto:bg.gtv6 at verizon.net)   and
Dave Wellwood at (805) 469-7842 email: _dswellwood at hotmail.com_ 
(mailto:dswellwood at hotmail.com)    
More  info at:  _www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com_ 
(http://www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com)    See you there!
Alberto Escalante
 
**************A bad credit score is 600 & below. Checking won't affect your 
score. See now! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgI
D=62&bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 13:04:16 2009
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 14:04:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers
In-Reply-To: <5DDB3D4B-C55C-4D6F-835C-F6D03188D0BC@sonic.net>
References: <481401.65442.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<5DDB3D4B-C55C-4D6F-835C-F6D03188D0BC@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4A6B5730.9020801@gmail.com>

Rod Williams wrote:
> On Jul 25, 2009, at 6:21 AM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
>
>> Has anyone ever installed hood louvers in their MGB..
>
> I sold a 1966 'B to a guy who did a lot of customization to the car 
> including punching louvers into the alloy bonnet. Although they looked 
> *really* nice, he later told me that they didn't do a whole lot to 
> lower the air temp. He experimented by taping small tufts of yarn at 
> different points on the louvers and then driving at various speeds, 
> and discovered that the last two louvers nearest the cowl actually 
> pulled air in rather than providing an exit for air. He had 8 or so 
> (can't remember) louvers stamped on each side near the outside edge of 
> the back of the bonnet, perhaps 8 or 10 inches from the cowl. Sort of 
> like on a Jaguar E-Type. He had them done by a local custom shop with 
> a louver punch and they did a very nice job. Perhaps the location of 
> the louvers would make more of a difference, but how would you 
> experiment? My old XKE had the louver patches on the bonnet and it 
> seemed that heat came roaring out of them. (especially the time the 
> electric radiator fan died!) 
My racing Mini had heat problems. It was an older model with a small radiator. I added louvres to the front of the bonnet right in front of the radiator to pull more air in and it made a significant few degrees difference.

The louvres are visible in this picture: http://www.rockyfrisco.com/MiniHW2.jpg

-The Roxter
--

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 25 15:17:03 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 14:17:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers
In-Reply-To: <E1MUkfQ-0007Jl-2m@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C690C45F.2258E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

No, the base of the windscreen is a high-pressure area (the air passing over
the bonnet "jams up" against the windscreen). But you are correct in that
that is why the air intake is located there (other than from general
convenience).

Low pressure would typically be along the flat area in the middle of the
bonnet. The E-Type has an enormous flat area, so this could work well. The
B's bonnet slopes up most of the way, which might maintain a certain amount
of positive pressure. Also, the underhood area behind the radiator diaphragm
is pretty well sealed, so it doesn't build up a lot of positive pressure
inside, either, so there wouldn't be a lot of pressure differential at the
louver location.

I saw a Sunbeam Tiger once that had engine heat vents in the wings, with
thermostat-controlled fans. This would probably be effective. But I wasn't
aware that under-hood temperature was a big problem on MGBs, anyway.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/25/09 10:03 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> I believe that nearest the bottom of the screen is low pressure so
> air will be sucked down into body - that is why the cool air vent for
> your feet is there.  Makes sense when you eyeball the shape.  But the
> engine bay area is too far away for louvers on the bonnet to work.
> 
> 
> At 12:48 PM 7/25/2009, Rod Williams wrote:
>> On Jul 25, 2009, at 6:21 AM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
>> 
>>> Has anyone ever installed hood louvers in their MGB..
>> 
>> I sold a 1966 'B to a guy who did a lot of customization to the car
>> including punching louvers into the alloy bonnet. Although they looked
>> *really* nice, he later told me that they didn't do a whole lot to
>> lower the air temp. He experimented by taping small tufts of yarn at
>> different points on the louvers and then driving at various speeds,
>> and discovered that the last two louvers nearest the cowl actually
>> pulled air in rather than providing an exit for air. He had 8 or so
>> (can't remember) louvers stamped on each side near the outside edge of
>> the back of the bonnet, perhaps 8 or 10 inches from the cowl. Sort of
>> like on a Jaguar E-Type. He had them done by a local custom shop with
>> a louver punch and they did a very nice job. Perhaps the location of
>> the louvers would make more of a difference, but how would you
>> experiment? My old XKE had the louver patches on the bonnet and it
>> seemed that heat came roaring out of them. (especially the time the
>> electric radiator fan died!)
>> --
>> Rod Williams
>> Petaluma, California
>> 1967 MGB
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> 
>> 
>> You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>> 
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>> 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> (705) 721-9060 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 26 03:44:09 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 10:44:09 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers
References: <481401.65442.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com><5DDB3D4B-C55C-4D6F-835C-F6D03188D0BC@sonic.net>
	<E1MUkfQ-0007Jl-2m@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C41B6939D1B0404F82F2E2CE99651259@Three>

Low or high?  High surely, which is why air *is* forced through the heater and
fresh-air vents when underway.  Vents further forward will be affected by the
Bernoulli effect and will suck air out of the louvres, it is the angle of the
screen and the effect on air flow that changes it to high pressure at the base
of the screen.  If you have heat problems while driving then there is
something else wrong, ram air forced in the front will exit downwards from the
sides and rear of the car even though that is counter to natural convection
and should be more than enough for engine cooling.  Louvres will allow some
heat escape at a standstill which could be beneficial, and some people remove
the foam sealing strip at the back edge of the bonnet opening for a similar
effect, as would jacking up the rear edge of the bonnet.  However you must
bear in mind that these as well as louvres will result in any fumes from the
engine compartment being pumped through the heater and fresh-air system into
the cabin.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  I believe that nearest the bottom of the screen is low pressure so
  air will be sucked down into body

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 26 11:34:08 2009
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 10:34:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers: Motivation for the Question
Message-ID: <822214.24570.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Fellow MGers;
I wanted to inform those interested list members about the motivation behind
my question on hood louvers.  At present, my '74 MGB-GT has no cooling
problems.  However, one issue I've always had with my GT is high cabin
temperatures in the summer. I suspect this is due to excess engine heat being
"dumped" into the cabin (the cabin acting like a little like a heat sink).
 Since this is a GT, this excess heat would be retained for a longer period,
much to the discomfort of the passengers.  I was therefore thinking that hood
louvers may, at least to some extent, help to alleviate this issue.  Excess
heat could possibly be dumped to the surrounding atmosphere and not as much
would be transferred to the cabin.  Granted, if air flow is not correct the
louvers may not help reduce cabin temperatures at all...which is something I
suspected and that the collective wisdom of this list has made me much more
aware of.
That was the motivation behind my original question.  Perhaps the question
should now be changed.  To all GT owners...have you experienced high cabin
temperatures in the summer?  And to the whole list in general...are there any
ideas on how these temperatures could be reduced (without removing the GT
roof, that is). 
Best Regards,Matt Milkevitch'74 MGB-GT

From twobees at sprynet.com  Sun Jul 26 12:31:25 2009
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 14:31:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Re.:  Hood Louvers
Message-ID: <000e01ca0e1f$492d48c0$6401a8c0@normoffice>

Matthew:

See attached photo.  I had a row of louvers near the outer edges about 2 ft.
ahead of the windscreen.  Likely not a pressure area, although I never did
an airflow test. I also never had a problem with overheating.  And, when
racing, you want to keep the intake air as cool as possible.  So, these
louvers likely did their job along with large openings in the carb side of
the radiator support panel (left or right depending on which head I ran,
either crossflow or 5-port).  Only drawback was the need to tape the
underside of the louvers over the distributor when driven on the street to
keep it dry in rain or snow.

Norm Sippel

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010162.JPG]

From lrc at red4est.com  Sun Jul 26 13:41:51 2009
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 12:41:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB fiberglass hood / glassfibre bonnet ?
Message-ID: <20090726194151.GA25884@red4est.com>

I will likely want to get cooler air to the blower on my MGB when I
get things back together. The most expedient solution would likely be
to vent the intake through the hood/bonnet. 

Rather than butchering the aluminum one, I'm considering looking for a
fiberglass hood to use instead.

I was able to find one for sale, at $400. Are there other sources?
Anybody know of used ones around?

What are steel hoods going for these days?


-- 
The first step is learning to take great photos, 
the second step is learning to throw away ones that are merely good.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 14:08:52 2009
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:08:52 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MGB fiberglass hood / glassfibre bonnet ?
Message-ID: <c77.4e302140.379e11d4@aol.com>

No, the easiest is to just plumb a flesh air intake in front of the  
radiator.  And you don't have to ruin the looks of the car to do it.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 26/07/2009 12:59:06 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
lrc at red4est.com writes:

I will  likely want to get cooler air to the blower on my MGB when I
get things  back together. The most expedient solution would likely be
to vent the  intake through the hood/bonnet. 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 26 14:06:35 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 13:06:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB fiberglass hood / glassfibre bonnet ?
In-Reply-To: <20090726194151.GA25884@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <C692055B.225A6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

When I ordered my steel hood from Moss a few years ago, it was only $110.
That may have been a sale price.

I would think you could route a cold air duct through the radiator diaphragm
(there already is a nice round hole, that you could enlarge). The grill
opening will see a lot higher pressure than anywhere on the hood.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/26/09 12:41 PM, Larry Colen at lrc at red4est.com wrote:

> I will likely want to get cooler air to the blower on my MGB when I
> get things back together. The most expedient solution would likely be
> to vent the intake through the hood/bonnet.
> 
> Rather than butchering the aluminum one, I'm considering looking for a
> fiberglass hood to use instead.
> 
> I was able to find one for sale, at $400. Are there other sources?
> Anybody know of used ones around?
> 
> What are steel hoods going for these days?

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 15:50:14 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:50:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB fiberglass hood / glassfibre bonnet ?
In-Reply-To: <20090726194151.GA25884@red4est.com>
References: <20090726194151.GA25884@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <E5E92CDF-8066-4492-8C95-0F9337CCC65E@gmail.com>

Smooth Line has them for $250

http://www.smoothline.com/composite_body_panels.php

On Jul 26, 2009, at 2:41 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

> I will likely want to get cooler air to the blower on my MGB when I
> get things back together. The most expedient solution would likely be
> to vent the intake through the hood/bonnet.
>
> Rather than butchering the aluminum one, I'm considering looking for a
> fiberglass hood to use instead.
>
> I was able to find one for sale, at $400. Are there other sources?
> Anybody know of used ones around?
>
> What are steel hoods going for these days?
>
>
> -- 
> The first step is learning to take great photos,
> the second step is learning to throw away ones that are merely good.
> Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 15:51:00 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:51:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB fiberglass hood / glassfibre bonnet ?
In-Reply-To: <c77.4e302140.379e11d4@aol.com>
References: <c77.4e302140.379e11d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01F1E995-2CE9-4A45-B537-F26A1CF0CCDE@gmail.com>

That gets pretty crowded with a supercharger and the SU at the back of  
the engine.

Though I agree, I'd rather not ruin the lines of the car.

On Jul 26, 2009, at 3:08 PM, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

> No, the easiest is to just plumb a flesh air intake in front of the
> radiator.  And you don't have to ruin the looks of the car to do it.
>
> Bill
>
> In a message dated 26/07/2009 12:59:06 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> lrc at red4est.com writes:
>
> I will  likely want to get cooler air to the blower on my MGB when I
> get things  back together. The most expedient solution would likely be
> to vent the  intake through the hood/bonnet.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 27 02:01:02 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 09:01:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers: Motivation for the Question
References: <822214.24570.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AAD08E676CB647A38AC3714F80DB6164@Three>

Yes ... exacerbated by having to have the heater going full-blast when the V8
engine cooling was a bit iffy!

If it's cabin temperature that is the problem then first make sure the heater
*is* being turned off.  Then use the cabin fresh-air vents, cold heater
directed to the footwell, and the cold air flap open (it has *three* open
positions, although it needs a hard pull to get it to the third one).  If the
drop-glasses aren't down then at least open the rear side windows, and a tilt
sunroof gets a surprising amount of air through.  That will at least get some
air through the cabin, but if it's 100F outside then it isn't going to be any
cooler inside, other than from the slight cooling effect of moving air as
opposed to static temperatures.

Next is to see if you have any heat insulation on the tunnel, a very large
part of the hot air from the engine compartment exits down the tunnel.  From
the factory the cars had a significant thickness of silvered material stuck
down there.  Next is the left-hand floor that the exhaust system passes under,
I've heard of heat here melting peoples shoes, you should be able to put heat
insulation down here as well, ordinarily there is only a bit of anti-drum
material in the depressions under the carpet.

Louvres immediately behind the radiator rather than right at the back of the
bonnet should reduce the amount of heat exiting under the car and hence coming
through the tunnel, but it will immediately get into the cabin through the
heater, dash vents and cold air flap of course (where these are open) making
things hotter than they were before!  A shallow but wide scoop might be
better, mixing outside air with that from the engine compartment exiting under
the tunnel and so reducing its temperature.  Other than that live with it,
it's an undocumented feature of classic car ownership, modern air-con has made
us soft.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ...  To all GT owners...have you experienced high cabin
  temperatures in the summer?

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 07:56:53 2009
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:56:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Last Call -- EAA Air Show
Message-ID: <85900A9AFFEB45EFA1779C2EBEDBFA19@Larry>

Just a reminder, if you would like to attend the annual EAA party, yell out.



Saturday, August 1st will be our 2nd annual Brit Car Show to go along with
our
6th annual EAA Air Show.  We should meet at our local British Car Clubhouse
at
County E and Sand Pit Road, Oshkosh, WI or at the Planeview Truck Stop at HWY
26 and 41, Oshkosh at 1:00 and go to the show from there.
http://www.airventure.org/

Once again, my brother and I will supply the beer, soda and BBQ.  Just bring
a
dish to pass, a lawnchair, a camera, sunscreen, a hat and ear protection.  We
will be on the east flightline and directly below the return path for the
show.

Those who were here last year will tell you that this was a very good place
to
watch the show and a good time.

Please RSVP by July 25 so we know how much food and drink to buy.  This is a
family-friendly event, so bring your kids, too.  All are welcome and we
always
plan on extras and last minute guests.

Larry Daniels

ladaniels at sbcglobal.net

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 08:15:15 2009
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 09:15:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
Message-ID: <48720d20907270715u77af67b8tedef3a07779619c@mail.gmail.com>

As an aftermarket extra, there were louvers to fix to the rear window of
GTs.

Anyone know if they are available anywhere?

Anyone have a set they want to get rid of?

Thanks,

Jack

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 27 09:18:40 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:18:40 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
References: <48720d20907270715u77af67b8tedef3a07779619c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <401AF16F54BB408D920ED1B410CE80BB@Three>

You should Google more often.  That threw up an MGExperience reference
http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/gt_autoplas_window_louvre/594981 to one
for sale on eBay a couple of years ago, gone, but it also said it was made by
Autoplas and Googling *that* throws up hundreds of references for lots of
different makes and models. No supplier though just past and present owners.
Also threw up lots of comments about them being a bit naff.  I remember them
being on Ford Capris and the like in the 70s, very Essex boy :o)

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  As an aftermarket extra, there were louvers to fix to the rear window of
  GTs.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 09:44:00 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:44:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
In-Reply-To: <401AF16F54BB408D920ED1B410CE80BB@Three>
References: <48720d20907270715u77af67b8tedef3a07779619c@mail.gmail.com>
	<401AF16F54BB408D920ED1B410CE80BB@Three>
Message-ID: <360666.35385.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ok, I had to look up 'naff' and 'Essex boy'.... ;-) 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 11:18:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers

You should Google more often.  That threw up an MGExperience reference
http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/gt_autoplas_window_louvre/594981 to one
for sale on eBay a couple of years ago, gone, but it also said it was made by
Autoplas and Googling *that* throws up hundreds of references for lots of
different makes and models. No supplier though just past and present owners.
Also threw up lots of comments about them being a bit naff.  I remember them
being on Ford Capris and the like in the 70s, very Essex boy :o)

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  As an aftermarket extra, there were louvers to fix to the rear window of
  GTs.
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From lundgren at byu.net  Mon Jul 27 10:42:22 2009
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:42:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
In-Reply-To: <360666.35385.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <48720d20907270715u77af67b8tedef3a07779619c@mail.gmail.com>
	<401AF16F54BB408D920ED1B410CE80BB@Three>
	<360666.35385.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <410919dad7d59aa7624d57183ba5904e@localhost>

But you didn't share what you found!

On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:44:00 -0700 (PDT), Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Ok, I had to look up 'naff' and 'Essex boy'.... ;-) 
> 

-- 
--
Andrew Lundgren
lundgren at byu.net

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 10:55:38 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 09:55:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
In-Reply-To: <410919dad7d59aa7624d57183ba5904e@localhost>
References: <48720d20907270715u77af67b8tedef3a07779619c@mail.gmail.com>
	<401AF16F54BB408D920ED1B410CE80BB@Three>
	<360666.35385.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<410919dad7d59aa7624d57183ba5904e@localhost>
Message-ID: <972430.39529.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

LOL, ok!

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Naff

http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081001121308AAZrmic

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: Andrew B. Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Cc: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 12:42:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers

But you didn't share what you found!

On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:44:00 -0700 (PDT), Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Ok, I had to look up 'naff' and 'Essex boy'.... ;-) 
> 

-- 
--
Andrew Lundgren
lundgren at byu.net

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Jul 27 11:45:39 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 13:45:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers: Motivation for the Question
Message-ID: <20090727.134540.3068.16.MGBOB@juno.com>

Matt,
   Paul Hunt's observations mirror mine. Cooler temps in the UK probably
offset a bit of the additional heat from his V8, but cabin temps in GTs
can be oppressive. I have used padding and foil on floors, under seats
and on the tunnel, all of which seem to have helped with heat (certainly
have helped with sound).  Even the plastic under-dash panels seem to have
helped a bit.
   Regardless of insulation efforts, one must plug all holes in the
firewall and seal around all penetrations. Little air leaks admit a
surprisingly large amount of hot air. 
   Austin-Healey owners use a heat shield on firewall and in gearbox
area. I have not seen them installed on an MGB, but they say that heat
shields work well for them, and might be something to experiment with.
Bob


 
On Sun, 26 Jul 2009 10:34:08 -0700 (PDT) Matthew Milkevitch
<mmilkevitch at yahoo.com> writes:
> Fellow MGers;
> I wanted to inform those interested list members about the 
> motivation behind my question on hood louvers.  At present, my '74
MGB-GT has no 
> cooling problems.  However, one issue I've always had with my GT is
high 
> cabin temperatures in the summer. I suspect this is due to excess
engine 
> heat being "dumped" into the cabin (the cabin acting like a little like
a heat 
____________________________________________________________
Click here for free info on Graduate Degrees.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTKKsqZAWncKtGQkhLmy75zLhOaNcQpcMnsby2WTXDENPRc3O2Q9yQ/

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Jul 27 10:51:05 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 12:51:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
Message-ID: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Ed,
   There are several formulae for calculating necessary time for a task
compared to expected time for a task.  Your 9-1 sounds good, well
grounded on experience.
    The wiper motors are reasonably strong. Over time, friction builds up
in the hardened grease in the gearbox, hardened grease in the cable, and
binding of the shafts in the wheel boxes.  These are probably worth
seeing to unless you know they have been removed & cleaned in
not-too-distant past.  
    I had draggy, slow wipers. Cleaned up the motor-no improvement.
Cleaned up the push-pull cable-slight improvement, but they were still
slow. 
    Finally addressed the wheelboxes, which I should have done initially.
When the cable was free of the wheelbox, the shaft would barely turn with
small pliers. I used penetrating oil, then motor oil, and they worked
better, though not easily.  With the chrome cover removed, I then drilled
a small hole in the threaded part, put oil in the hole then forced in
light grease with a needle-tip greaser, and it made all the difference. 
Wipers run so fast that some have asked if the car were wired for 14
volts. 
Bob

On Sat, 25 Jul 2009 08:17:43 -0400 "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
writes:
> Bob,
> 
> Don't you think that the windscreens were installed after the body 
> was painted and before any of the interior? Without the dash, wiring, 
> etc., it would be an easy task.
> 
> New back up light lenses and brake switch yesterday. New Lucas 
> lenses used  larger screws (#8 rather than the originals which appeared
to be 
> #6), so I  had to retap the captive nuts. The brake switch had unusable

> connectors and  wires a foot too long, so they had to be cut and new,
correct 
> terminals  soldered on. Every 10 minute job take an hour and a half!
> 
> New wiper arms and blades today. I hope that the old motor has the 
> torque to move them. A replacement wiper motor is on hand in case it
doesn't.
> 
> Thanks for all your encouragement and assistance.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Ed
____________________________________________________________
Store more data on a reliable tape drive. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTEqwhAljvkhVrjJ0T3fQn9hVKI3TFEtcDnSeu5b2fMcO8zqS01hlu/

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 11:44:24 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:44:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
In-Reply-To: <972430.39529.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C6933588.225D7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

They weren't so "naff" on the Lamborghini Miura, or the Bertone Carabo, but
by the time they appeared on Boss Mustangs, 240Zs, Honda Civics, and even
the unfortunate Mustang II, the concept was a little tired.

Anyway, I don't think sunlight entering the rear window is the major heat
source inside the GT cockpit...

Now I need to know -- what's a "chav"?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/27/09 9:55 AM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> LOL, ok!
> 
> http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Naff
> 
> http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081001121308AAZrmic
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Andrew B. Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net>
> To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> Cc: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; Jack Feldman
> <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>; mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 12:42:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
> 
> But you didn't share what you found!
> 
> On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:44:00 -0700 (PDT), Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>> Ok, I had to look up 'naff' and 'Essex boy'.... ;-)

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 12:25:57 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 11:25:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
In-Reply-To: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com>

The best formula for calculating time needed for a particular job is as
follows:
The first 90% of the job takes 90% of the time
The last 10% of the job takes another 90% of the time.

On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

> Hi Ed,
>   There are several formulae for calculating necessary time for a task
> compared to expected time for a task.  Your 9-1 sounds good, well
> grounded on experience.
> >Every 10 minute job take an hour and a half!
> >
> >
> > Ed
> ____________________________________________________________
> Store more data on a reliable tape drive. Click now!
>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTEqwhAljvkhVrjJ0T3fQn9hVKI3TFEtcDnSeu5b2fMcO8zqS01hlu/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From glenfel at sympatico.ca  Mon Jul 27 12:52:52 2009
From: glenfel at sympatico.ca (Glenfel)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 14:52:52 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl>

A simpler and more acurate formula is:

Take whatever unit of measure you used the first time and raise it to the
next unit, then double it.  In other words, if you estimate 5 minutes, the
real time is 10 hours, one hour really takes two days, etc..

-------Original Message-------

From: Richard Ewald
Date: 07/27/09 14:35:29
To: Bob Howard
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen

The best formula for calculating time needed for a particular job is as
follows:
The first 90% of the job takes 90% of the time
The last 10% of the job takes another 90% of the time.

On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

> Hi Ed,
>   There are several formulae for calculating necessary time for a task
> compared to expected time for a task.  Your 9-1 sounds good, well
> grounded on experience.
> >Every 10 minute job take an hour and a half!
> >
> >
> > Ed
> ____________________________________________________________
> Store more data on a reliable tape drive. Click now!
>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno
com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTEqwhAljvkhVrjJ0T3fQn9hVKI3TFEtcDnSeu5b2fMcO8zqS01hlu/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as glenfel at sympatico.ca


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From barrie at look.ca  Mon Jul 27 13:45:49 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 15:45:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Hood Louvers: Motivation for the Question
In-Reply-To: <20090727.134540.3068.16.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20090727.134540.3068.16.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <E1MVWCR-0006Xh-Fl@zeta.look.ca>

When I built my MGB GT V8 I wanted quiet so I made my own insulating 
stuff which was much cheaper than Dynamat and better.  Two aluminium 
foils, two layers of bitumastic sandwiching a layer of dense close 
cell automotive foam.  Heat and sound are at bay in my cockpit - not 
that I cannot hear anything but it does make one h*** of a 
difference.  I used it in the gearbox housing, floors, roof,  doors 
(they sound like RR doors), all places in the cockpit (made carpet 
fitting a pain), on top of fuel tank - in fact everywhere.  Go look 
at www.britcot.com - it's there


At 01:45 PM 7/27/2009, Bob Howard wrote:
>Matt,
>    Paul Hunt's observations mirror mine. Cooler temps in the UK probably
>offset a bit of the additional heat from his V8, but cabin temps in GTs
>can be oppressive. I have used padding and foil on floors, under seats
>and on the tunnel, all of which seem to have helped with heat (certainly
>have helped with sound).  Even the plastic under-dash panels seem to have
>helped a bit.
>    Regardless of insulation efforts, one must plug all holes in the
>firewall and seal around all penetrations. Little air leaks admit a
>surprisingly large amount of hot air.
>    Austin-Healey owners use a heat shield on firewall and in gearbox
>area. I have not seen them installed on an MGB, but they say that heat
>shields work well for them, and might be something to experiment with.
>Bob
>
>
>
>On Sun, 26 Jul 2009 10:34:08 -0700 (PDT) Matthew Milkevitch
><mmilkevitch at yahoo.com> writes:
> > Fellow MGers;
> > I wanted to inform those interested list members about the
> > motivation behind my question on hood louvers.  At present, my '74
>MGB-GT has no
> > cooling problems.  However, one issue I've always had with my GT is
>high
> > cabin temperatures in the summer. I suspect this is due to excess
>engine
> > heat being "dumped" into the cabin (the cabin acting like a little like
>a heat
>____________________________________________________________
>Click here for free info on Graduate Degrees.
>http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTKKsqZAWncKtGQkhLmy75zLhOaNcQpcMnsby2WTXDENPRc3O2Q9yQ/
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 14:12:00 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 13:12:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl>
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <759971.43075.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

LOL, these are good estimates, guys!! ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: Glenfel <glenfel at sympatico.ca>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 2:52:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen

A simpler and more acurate formula is:

Take whatever unit of measure you used the first time and raise it to the
next unit, then double it.  In other words, if you estimate 5 minutes, the
real time is 10 hours, one hour really takes two days, etc..

-------Original Message-------

From: Richard Ewald
Date: 07/27/09 14:35:29
To: Bob Howard
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen

The best formula for calculating time needed for a particular job is as
follows:
The first 90% of the job takes 90% of the time
The last 10% of the job takes another 90% of the time.

On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

> Hi Ed,
>   There are several formulae for calculating necessary time for a task
> compared to expected time for a task.  Your 9-1 sounds good, well
> grounded on experience.
> >Every 10 minute job take an hour and a half!
> >
> >
> > Ed

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 14:13:36 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 13:13:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl>
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10907271313j4ce01c72nd84e97d6a3704418@mail.gmail.com>

I thought that was the formula for calculating costs on a restoration.

On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 11:52 AM, Glenfel <glenfel at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> A simpler and more acurate formula is:
>
> Take whatever unit of measure you used the first time and raise it to the
> next unit, then double it.  In other words, if you estimate 5 minutes, the
> real time is 10 hours, one hour really takes two days, etc..
>
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Jul 27 16:42:49 2009
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
In-Reply-To: <759971.43075.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl>
	<759971.43075.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A6E2D69.6000002@ktc.com>

I changed the windscreen on my B by myself after asking the local auto 
glass guys how much they wanted for labor to do it.  When they said $75 
labor I told them that they obviously had no experience with that 
particular car.  After I explained what the job entailed they decided 
they didn't want to do it. (LOL)

   Once I got the frame re-assembled, the worst part of installing it 
was getting the new bottom seal to flatten out. What a PITA!!  Push down 
- pull the string, push some more - pull some more, etc, etc, and don't 
let it curl back up!  BTW, I took the dash about half way out so I could 
get the upper bolts started.   Dunno if I'd ever want to do that again......

   CR, '69 B

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 18:52:12 2009
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:52:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Steering column question
Message-ID: <4A6E4BBC.3080409@comcast.net>

Today's job was refurbing the steering column on my '67 Redcar. I'll 
come back later on why I hate red cars.

Stock column with the felt lower 'bearing' and the plastic upper bearing.

Let's just say that the felt is a job of work. I had heard that it was 
going to be a very tight fit putting the shaft back into the casing with 
a new felt. I did it by the book - soaking the felt in graphited oil (in 
fact, overnight) and there's no other info in the book. I remembered 
somebody on the list a l-o-o-o-n-n-g time ago saying that it was a piece 
of work getting the column back in. I wasn't expecting quite the effort, 
but got it in. A good friend who had done the same job on a Morris Minor 
didn't quite laugh out loud when he heard I was doing this.

The question, for anyone who has done this job, is this; how long does 
it take to bed in and actually be driveable? It's tight enough that the 
steering won't return to center. Ray said that his Minor took months. He 
didn't drive it every day - maybe once or twice a month. I normally 
drive the Redcar every day if it's not down for scheduled maintenance.

Glenn

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 19:13:56 2009
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:13:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
Message-ID: <4A6E50D4.7000206@comcast.net>

I said I'd return to this, but figured it need to be a different subject.

A. When I was in my youth my sister was just going into college and got 
herself a red Fiat Spyder. She'd been forever harping about getting a 
little red sports car. She got one and wouldn't let me drive it. That's 
one strike.

2. Then later in life I discovered the prejudice that insurance 
companies and the police hold against red cars. In fact my first MG was 
red but dark enough to warrant calling it 'maroon' on the registration 
papers. I got away with it. It's always been known around here as the 
Maroon.

III. When I got this car ('67) it had been painted a late '70's Ford red 
and was in fairly good condition. Because of that I decided to rebuild 
it, this time body first. I wanted to tone down the red and spent 
several days with chips and paint books trying to find a suitable red 
that wasn't quite as loud. In the end I took a book Tartan and added 
some blue and am happy with the result. But looking at all those reds in 
different light - all I could see for the next twenty minutes was GREEN.

And then the color sanding and polishing after the paint was down. I had 
to take breaks every half hour so I could see something other than GREEN.

This week I had to re-polish the bonnet because I let the birdshit and 
water spots sit too long. Luckily my air compressor only holds enough 
air to keep the polishing gun going for about ten minutes. When I'd get 
back inside to let the tank refill all I could see was GREEN again.

That's why I hate red cars. I'm sick of looking at GREEN.

Glenn

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Mon Jul 27 20:48:27 2009
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 21:48:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers
In-Reply-To: <360666.35385.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200907280248.n6S2mSpp015121@mail963c35.nsolutionszone.com>

Well, and then I had to look up "chav" and "manney."

I'll complete my education yet!

David
Hercules Wilderness, US


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 10:44 AM
To: Paul Hunt; Jack Feldman; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] GT Rear Window Louvers

Ok, I had to look up 'naff' and 'Essex boy'.... ;-) 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 28 01:59:54 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:59:54 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <ABF617776F4D454DB68E0A3000B5869A@Three>

All MGBs run at 14v ;o)
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wipers run so fast that some have asked if the car were wired for 14
  volts.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 28 06:12:27 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 05:12:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
In-Reply-To: <4A6E50D4.7000206@comcast.net>
References: <4A6E50D4.7000206@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <244617.23655.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hmmm, was planning on going with Tartan Red on my '65 project... Maybe I should consider GREEN!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 9:13:56 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars

I said I'd return to this, but figured it need to be a different subject.

A. When I was in my youth my sister was just going into college and got herself a red Fiat Spyder. She'd been forever harping about getting a little red sports car. She got one and wouldn't let me drive it. That's one strike.

2. Then later in life I discovered the prejudice that insurance companies and the police hold against red cars. In fact my first MG was red but dark enough to warrant calling it 'maroon' on the registration papers. I got away with it. It's always been known around here as the Maroon.

III. When I got this car ('67) it had been painted a late '70's Ford red and was in fairly good condition. Because of that I decided to rebuild it, this time body first. I wanted to tone down the red and spent several days with chips and paint books trying to find a suitable red that wasn't quite as loud. In the end I took a book Tartan and added some blue and am happy with the result. But looking at all those reds in different light - all I could see for the next twenty minutes was GREEN.

And then the color sanding and polishing after the paint was down. I had to take breaks every half hour so I could see something other than GREEN.

This week I had to re-polish the bonnet because I let the birdshit and water spots sit too long. Luckily my air compressor only holds enough air to keep the polishing gun going for about ten minutes. When I'd get back inside to let the tank refill all I could see was GREEN again.

That's why I hate red cars. I'm sick of looking at GREEN.

Glenn
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 28 06:16:15 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 05:16:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
In-Reply-To: <4A6E50D4.7000206@comcast.net>
References: <4A6E50D4.7000206@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <261558.7701.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hmmm, was planning on going with Tartan Red on my '65 project... Maybe I should consider GREEN!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 9:13:56 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars

I said I'd return to this, but figured it need to be a different subject.

A. When I was in my youth my sister was just going into college and got herself a red Fiat Spyder. She'd been forever harping about getting a little red sports car. She got one and wouldn't let me drive it. That's one strike.

2. Then later in life I discovered the prejudice that insurance companies and the police hold against red cars. In fact my first MG was red but dark enough to warrant calling it 'maroon' on the registration papers. I got away with it. It's always been known around here as the Maroon.

III. When I got this car ('67) it had been painted a late '70's Ford red and was in fairly good condition. Because of that I decided to rebuild it, this time body first. I wanted to tone down the red and spent several days with chips and paint books trying to find a suitable red that wasn't quite as loud. In the end I took a book Tartan and added some blue and am happy with the result. But looking at all those reds in different light - all I could see for the next twenty minutes was GREEN.

And then the color sanding and polishing after the paint was down. I had to take breaks every half hour so I could see something other than GREEN.

This week I had to re-polish the bonnet because I let the birdshit and water spots sit too long. Luckily my air compressor only holds enough air to keep the polishing gun going for about ten minutes. When I'd get back inside to let the tank refill all I could see was GREEN again.

That's why I hate red cars. I'm sick of looking at GREEN.

Glenn
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Jul 28 06:54:27 2009
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 07:54:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
In-Reply-To: <261558.7701.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <4A6E50D4.7000206@comcast.net>
	<261558.7701.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <24CAAA61-A7F4-4DF7-B08D-26D32EF1DDC8@gmail.com>

The tartan red is a deeper mellow red. Not an arrest me red.

I once got a ticket, when I lived in Kingston, NY for a red car. I was  
going the same speed as the Honda Accord ahead of me, but I was in a  
Boy Racer Red Isuzu Impulse Turbo.

A month earlier, I'd talked my way out of a ticket, heading out of  
Woodstock, about 100 yards from where it would change from 35 to 55.

On Jul 28, 2009, at 7:16 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Hmmm, was planning on going with Tartan Red on my '65 project...  
> Maybe I should consider GREEN!
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 9:13:56 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
>
> I said I'd return to this, but figured it need to be a different  
> subject.
>
> A. When I was in my youth my sister was just going into college and  
> got herself a red Fiat Spyder. She'd been forever harping about  
> getting a little red sports car. She got one and wouldn't let me  
> drive it. That's one strike.
>
> 2. Then later in life I discovered the prejudice that insurance  
> companies and the police hold against red cars. In fact my first MG  
> was red but dark enough to warrant calling it 'maroon' on the  
> registration papers. I got away with it. It's always been known  
> around here as the Maroon.
>
> III. When I got this car ('67) it had been painted a late '70's Ford  
> red and was in fairly good condition. Because of that I decided to  
> rebuild it, this time body first. I wanted to tone down the red and  
> spent several days with chips and paint books trying to find a  
> suitable red that wasn't quite as loud. In the end I took a book  
> Tartan and added some blue and am happy with the result. But looking  
> at all those reds in different light - all I could see for the next  
> twenty minutes was GREEN.
>
> And then the color sanding and polishing after the paint was down. I  
> had to take breaks every half hour so I could see something other  
> than GREEN.
>
> This week I had to re-polish the bonnet because I let the birdshit  
> and water spots sit too long. Luckily my air compressor only holds  
> enough air to keep the polishing gun going for about ten minutes.  
> When I'd get back inside to let the tank refill all I could see was  
> GREEN again.
>
> That's why I hate red cars. I'm sick of looking at GREEN.
>
> Glenn
> You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Jul 28 07:33:28 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 09:33:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
Message-ID: <20090728.093328.2992.6.MGBOB@juno.com>

   When I was racing small sailboats, most boats were white. Few
competitive sailors would have any color but white because nobody wants
his bow to be identifiable when all the boats are crowding the starting
line.  
  Boats that cross the line early are recalled to re-start, which not
only takes time but puts the re-started boat into disturbed water and
disturbed wind. 
Bob



On Tue, 28 Jul 2009 07:54:27 -0500 Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> writes:
> The tartan red is a deeper mellow red. Not an arrest me red.
> 
> I once got a ticket, when I lived in Kingston, NY for a red car. I 
> was  
> going the same speed as the Honda Accord ahead of me, but I was in a 
>  
> Boy Racer Red Isuzu Impulse Turbo.
> 
> A month earlier, I'd talked my way out of a ticket, heading out of  
> 
> Woodstock, about 100 yards from where it would change from 35 to 
> 55.
> 
> On Jul 28, 2009, at 7:16 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> 
> > Hmmm, was planning on going with Tartan Red on my '65 project...  
> 
> > Maybe I should consider GREEN!
> >
> > Dan D
> > Central NJ USA
> > '76 MGB Tourer
> > '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> > NAMGBR #5-2328
____________________________________________________________
Advance your career with a fully accredited PhD, 100% online. Free information.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTN9BlTgaLpWhTuhOnik3FxwklHRw3xxJPVUbB0AXsdJvUXlY1gDxG/

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Jul 28 08:05:47 2009
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:05:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
In-Reply-To: <4A6E2D69.6000002@ktc.com>
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl>
	<759971.43075.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A6E2D69.6000002@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <E1MVnbE-0003HJ-DT@gamma.look.ca>

I had a new windscreen fitted by a local auto glass shop.  They got 
the windscreen for me, they installed for $50 (roughly 25 quid) and 
said it was a piece of cake !!  However, mine is an MGB GT


At 06:42 PM 7/27/2009, Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>I changed the windscreen on my B by myself after asking the local 
>auto glass guys how much they wanted for labor to do it.  When they 
>said $75 labor I told them that they obviously had no experience 
>with that particular car.  After I explained what the job entailed 
>they decided they didn't want to do it. (LOL)
>
>   Once I got the frame re-assembled, the worst part of installing 
> it was getting the new bottom seal to flatten out. What a 
> PITA!!  Push down - pull the string, push some more - pull some 
> more, etc, etc, and don't let it curl back up!  BTW, I took the 
> dash about half way out so I could get the upper bolts 
> started.   Dunno if I'd ever want to do that again......
>
>   CR, '69 B
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards

Barrie
(705) 721-9060 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 28 08:27:53 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 15:27:53 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
References: <20090728.093328.2992.6.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <F23E4FE55656400AA1439697CBD312D7@Three>

But in order for that to be valid over any colour either white wasn't a colour
people wanted anyway, or everyone previously agreed to have the same colour to
confuse the judges!

Some years ago there were stories going round the UK about the Police playing
car snooker - you know, you book a red one, then a 'colour', then another red
one and so on and highest score on the shift wins.  A police pal on traffic
said he had never heard of it happening but they did get a warning note from
on high saying a very dim view would be taken if anyone was found doing it.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ... Few
  competitive sailors would have any color but white because nobody wants
  his bow to be identifiable when all the boats are crowding the starting
  line.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 28 09:07:08 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:07:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com><a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com><BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl><759971.43075.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4A6E2D69.6000002@ktc.com>
	<E1MVnbE-0003HJ-DT@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <1EE55E2ADB3D4B9CB8264DA145428CF5@Three>

Hmmm, the beggar with GTs is the bright trim.  The rest is easy even my blind
pal has done it.  Easy with old rubber anyway, new rubber is another beggar.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ... it was a piece of cake !!  However, mine is an MGB GT

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 09:44:37 2009
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:44:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Bolts for Clutch slave on 73 mgb
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com><a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com><BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl><759971.43075.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4A6E2D69.6000002@ktc.com><E1MVnbE-0003HJ-DT@gamma.look.ca>
	<1EE55E2ADB3D4B9CB8264DA145428CF5@Three>
Message-ID: <B5ED7B278E4944EB914892B5EE6BF585@DELL>

I have misplaced the bolts for the clutch slave for my 1973 MGB.  Can anyone 
send me the size, length, and thread.

Thanks,

Craig 

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Tue Jul 28 13:23:06 2009
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:23:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
Message-ID: <4A6F501A.8020008@comcast.net>

Gives me hope...  Drives it, does he?


> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
> To: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <1EE55E2ADB3D4B9CB8264DA145428CF5 at Three>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hmmm, the beggar with GTs is the bright trim.  The rest is easy even my blind
> pal has done it.  Easy with old rubber anyway, new rubber is another beggar.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 28 13:29:46 2009
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 12:29:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
Message-ID: <458207.13947.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I like my red car - and my silver ones, and my blue one and my black one.   Hell, I just like cars.  :-)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul 29 01:45:11 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 08:45:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Bolts for Clutch slave on 73 mgb
References: <20090727.134540.3068.8.MGBOB@juno.com><a3b984e10907271125l54aba091j8a6f99c7a0e51fff@mail.gmail.com><BLU0-SMTP21E9F036FB5C4EEEEC75AEDE140@phx.gbl><759971.43075.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4A6E2D69.6000002@ktc.com><E1MVnbE-0003HJ-DT@gamma.look.ca><1EE55E2ADB3D4B9CB8264DA145428CF5@Three>
	<B5ED7B278E4944EB914892B5EE6BF585@DELL>
Message-ID: <9C5EE7C565D842FF95A5C76171E97857@Three>

According to my Parts Catalogue they are ZCS610, and according to my
conversion chart *they* are SCREW, SET, HIGH TENSILE, UNC, 3/8" X 1 1/4"

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  I have misplaced the bolts for the clutch slave for my 1973 MGB.  Can anyone
  send me the size, length, and thread.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul 29 01:53:11 2009
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 08:53:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windscreen
References: <4A6F501A.8020008@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <128C20A89EAA4B3A905EF725A9DED6D8@Three>

Well, not yet because he is still rebuilding it and he bought it as an
abandoned restoration.  But he can drive, and has driven since he went blind,
on a closed circuit with a co-driver.  I'm waiting impatiently for him to
finish so he can take me round in the MGB.  I may need to wire a
chicken-switch into the ignition though, the key is a long way away on an
RHD!

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  Gives me hope...  Drives it, does he?

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 29 05:13:32 2009
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 07:13:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Crank pulley
Message-ID: <4A702EDC.7060000@comcast.net>

I am in the process of rebuilding my 67 B motor.  I assume the crank 
pulley should be flush with the end of the crankshaft, but it sits about 
3/32nds of an inch proud of the end of the crankshaft.  Is this an issue?

Thanks,

Larry Swift

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Jul 29 12:34:26 2009
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:34:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Crank pulley
In-Reply-To: <4A702EDC.7060000@comcast.net>
References: <4A702EDC.7060000@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090729185224.8571D187683@autox.team.net>

At 07:13 AM 7/29/2009 -0400, Larry Swift (MGTD51) wrote:
>I am in the process of rebuilding my 67 B motor.  I assume the crank 
>pulley should be flush with the end of the crankshaft, but it sits 
>about 3/32nds of an inch proud of the end of the crankshaft.  Is this an issue?

It's normal.  The shaft must be slightly recessed for the crank nut 
to hold the pulley tight.

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jul 29 13:42:57 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:42:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Why I hate Red Cars
Message-ID: <20090729.161201.3416.5.MGBOB@juno.com>

  There is some historical basis for white paint on USA yachts.  There
was one builder,  I believe it was Nat Hereschoff, who opined that only a
fool would paint a hull black; almost all USA yachts were white then,
perhaps better to resist the effects of hotter climate compared to the UK
and the Netherlands. His comment, of course, was a dig at UK yachtsmen,
as most UK yachts of the time were black.  And USA boats were shallow
hulls w deep fin keels or centreboards, while UK hulls were built narrow
and deep, plank-on-edge they were called here. 
   So if one did not wish to be conspicuous at the starting line (few do)
one would use same color as everyone else, in this case white.
Bob


On Tue, 28 Jul 2009 15:27:53 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
But in order for that to be valid over any colour either white wasn't a
colour people wanted anyway, or everyone previously agreed to have the
same colour to confuse the judges!

Some years ago there were stories going round the UK about the Police
playing car snooker - you know, you book a red one, then a 'colour', then
another red one and so on and highest score on the shift wins.  A police
pal on traffic said he had never heard of it happening but they did get a
warning note from on high saying a very dim view would be taken if anyone
was found doing it.

PaulH.
----- Original Message ----- 
... Few
competitive sailors would have any color but white because nobody wants
his bow to be identifiable when all the boats are crowding the starting
line.  
____________________________________________________________
You're never too old to date. Senior Dating. Click Here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTQbQXEJGvZyNgWH6iErEylV7fI9IOYZGM1yLrya2ZOQ13AJNAs7YE/

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 30 15:07:47 2009
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:07:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Google 411 Information
Message-ID: <A86F0FA3FAB44499BE31FCA7D6C10CE0@Larry>

Google has come out with a free 411 phone information service.

Say you are out of the office on a cell phone and you need to make a call, but
you don't have the number.

Dial 1-800-goog-411 (1-800-466-4411); give them the city and state, then give
the name.  They will find the number and connect you for free.

No kidding, it works.  I just used it to call my office.


Larry

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Jul 30 15:19:37 2009
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:19:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Google 411 Information
In-Reply-To: <A86F0FA3FAB44499BE31FCA7D6C10CE0@Larry>
References: <A86F0FA3FAB44499BE31FCA7D6C10CE0@Larry>
Message-ID: <20090730211958.5A142187666@autox.team.net>

Business numbers only at this time, not for calling your firensds at home.


At 04:07 PM 7/30/2009 -0500, Larry Daniels wrote:
>Google has come out with a free 411 phone information service.
>
>Say you are out of the office on a cell phone and you need to make a 
>call, but you don't have the number.
>
>Dial 1-800-goog-411 (1-800-466-4411); give them the city and state, 
>then give the name.  They will find the number and connect you for free.
>
>No kidding, it works.  I just used it to call my office.
>....

From mlambdin at towson.edu  Fri Jul 31 08:25:59 2009
From: mlambdin at towson.edu (Lambdin, Mike)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 10:25:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1500 specs
Message-ID: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC1@OAK.towson.edu>

I'm about to start rebuilding the 1500 engine of my '59 A. However, I have no
technical specs to go by. Can anyone direct me as to where I can find this
information? I've already, unsuccessfully, searched the internet.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Mike Lambdin
mlambdin at towson.edu

From mlambdin at towson.edu  Fri Jul 31 08:50:33 2009
From: mlambdin at towson.edu (Lambdin, Mike)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 10:50:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1500 specs
In-Reply-To: <4A745607.1070700@snet.net>
References: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC1@OAK.towson.edu>
	<4A745607.1070700@snet.net>
Message-ID: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC2@OAK.towson.edu>

A shop manual would be the answer to my question(s). Is this something I could
get from Moss Motors, etc?



-----Original Message-----
From: J. F. Juhas [mailto:james.f.juhas at snet.net]
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 10:50 AM
To: Lambdin, Mike
Cc: 'mgs at autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1500 specs

What specs are looking for?  The shop manual is quite detailed with
various measurements and clearances.  I just rebuilt a couple MGA
engines and that was my primary guide, supplemented by experienced
advice from the machine shop I used.

Lambdin, Mike wrote:
> I'm about to start rebuilding the 1500 engine of my '59 A. However, I have
no
> technical specs to go by. Can anyone direct me as to where I can find this
> information? I've already, unsuccessfully, searched the internet.
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Mike Lambdin
> mlambdin at towson.edu
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 31 09:05:36 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 10:05:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1500 specs
References: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC1@OAK.towson.edu><4A745607.1070700@snet.net>
	<6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC2@OAK.towson.edu>
Message-ID: <21B9B5E5BEC444AEB085BE6911B0BCCA@ranteer.local>

shop manuals are usually available on ebay on cd.

i believe you can also get one from moss as well as a copy of the owner's 
manual

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lambdin, Mike" <mlambdin at towson.edu>
To: "'J. F. Juhas'" <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1500 specs


>A shop manual would be the answer to my question(s). Is this something I 
>could
> get from Moss Motors, etc?

From mlambdin at towson.edu  Fri Jul 31 09:26:05 2009
From: mlambdin at towson.edu (Lambdin, Mike)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1500 specs
In-Reply-To: <21B9B5E5BEC444AEB085BE6911B0BCCA@ranteer.local>
References: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC1@OAK.towson.edu><4A745607.1070700@snet.net>
	<6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC2@OAK.towson.edu>
	<21B9B5E5BEC444AEB085BE6911B0BCCA@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FC4@OAK.towson.edu>

Thanks for the heads-up. I just spoke with the folks at Moss and they carry
the manual with all the engine specs. I will check ebay, too.

Thanks

Mike Lambdin
Office of Technology Services
Towson University
8000 York Road
Towson, MD 21252-0001
tel: 410-704-2780
fax: 410-704-4361

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of oliver
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 11:06 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1500 specs

shop manuals are usually available on ebay on cd.

i believe you can also get one from moss as well as a copy of the owner's
manual

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lambdin, Mike" <mlambdin at towson.edu>
To: "'J. F. Juhas'" <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1500 specs


>A shop manual would be the answer to my question(s). Is this something I
>could
> get from Moss Motors, etc?
You are subscribed as mlambdin at towson.edu


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From guinness at stclegal.com  Fri Jul 31 12:58:19 2009
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:58:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs]  1500 specs
Message-ID: <4A733ECB.7070503@stclegal.com>

    /Mike Lambdin wrote:/

        I'm about to start rebuilding the 1500 engine of my '59 A.
        However, I have no technical specs to go by. Can anyone direct
        me as to where I can find this information? I've already,
        unsuccessfully, searched the internet.

/Robert Guinness replied:/

And of course for all things MGA, check out Barney Gaylord's website:   
www.mgaguru.com

Take a peek at the "Literature from MGA" section for additional sources.
-- 
Robert Guinness
1961 MGA 1600

From mlambdin at towson.edu  Fri Jul 31 13:32:22 2009
From: mlambdin at towson.edu (Lambdin, Mike)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 15:32:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1500 specs
In-Reply-To: <4A733ECB.7070503@stclegal.com>
References: <4A733ECB.7070503@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <6547B7B3FD05A946BD7B10537B38AC08D4EDC57FCD@OAK.towson.edu>

Thank you, Robert, this is exactly what I needed.

Mike Lambdin
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Robert J. Guinness
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 2:58 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] 1500 specs

    /Mike Lambdin wrote:/

        I'm about to start rebuilding the 1500 engine of my '59 A.
        However, I have no technical specs to go by. Can anyone direct
        me as to where I can find this information? I've already,
        unsuccessfully, searched the internet.

/Robert Guinness replied:/

And of course for all things MGA, check out Barney Gaylord's website:
www.mgaguru.com

Take a peek at the "Literature from MGA" section for additional sources.
--
Robert Guinness
1961 MGA 1600
You are subscribed as mlambdin at towson.edu


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From guinness at stclegal.com  Fri Jul 31 14:39:02 2009
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 15:39:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
Message-ID: <4A735666.7010706@stclegal.com>

Does anyone on the list know how to contact DJZ Zurawski from Illinois, 
or anyone else who has an Alamo Beige MGA.  I have discovered that my 
MGA was originally Alamo Beige.  Although I admit I am aesthetically 
challenged, Alamo Beige seems to be less than attractive.  Does a modern 
repaint of the color make it more appealing? Does the refreshed color 
have copper tones in it, rather than the brown eggshell look of the 
faded paint I have under the existing paint?  Does anyone have any 
recent photos of any such cars from car shows they can send me?  I 
looked at the internet sources and they seem to confirm the "ugly 
Betty-ness" of the color.  Except for a photo from GT-4.

www.prnczdi.blackmga.com/gts/namgar_gt04.htm

I may buy some touch-up paint to test it out.

**
-- 
Robert Guinness
1961 MGA

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 31 14:48:47 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:48:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
In-Reply-To: <4A735666.7010706@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <C698A6BF.227C2%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

The chip is shown on Auto Color Library here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1959-ahmg-pg08.jpg

Rather "pinky", is my impression. But I think it would actually be an
unusual, interesting and very period color.

GT4's photos make it look dark and coppery, but I wouldn't think that is how
it would come out, based on the chip.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/31/09 1:39 PM, Robert J. Guinness at guinness at stclegal.com wrote:

> Does anyone on the list know how to contact DJZ Zurawski from Illinois,
> or anyone else who has an Alamo Beige MGA.  I have discovered that my
> MGA was originally Alamo Beige.  Although I admit I am aesthetically
> challenged, Alamo Beige seems to be less than attractive.  Does a modern
> repaint of the color make it more appealing? Does the refreshed color
> have copper tones in it, rather than the brown eggshell look of the
> faded paint I have under the existing paint?  Does anyone have any
> recent photos of any such cars from car shows they can send me?  I
> looked at the internet sources and they seem to confirm the "ugly
> Betty-ness" of the color.  Except for a photo from GT-4.
> 
> www.prnczdi.blackmga.com/gts/namgar_gt04.htm
> 
> I may buy some touch-up paint to test it out.
> 
> **

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 31 15:03:21 2009
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 14:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
In-Reply-To: <4A735666.7010706@stclegal.com>
References: <4A735666.7010706@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <628809.43676.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here are some examples -

http://freerevs.com/car/8670077

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgar/shtml/mgallery/stewart.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgar/shtml/mg_gallery.shtml&usg=__aXxmF_msmbU6aA1GHhJ5jskvj2Y=&h=279&w=400&sz=16&hl=en&start=3&tbnid=7DFAGP_a7vy8DM:&tbnh=86&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dalamo%2Bbeige%2Bmg%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rlz%3D1B3GGGL_enUS244US244%26sa%3DG

http://www.hookedonmodels.co.uk/open-80th-anniversary-alamo-beige-p-2823.html

Personally, I think I'd want to see it in person, but I like it as a neat 'period' color, and very rare....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/





________________________________
From: Robert J. Guinness <guinness at stclegal.com>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 4:39:02 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA

Does anyone on the list know how to contact DJZ Zurawski from Illinois, or anyone else who has an Alamo Beige MGA.  I have discovered that my MGA was originally Alamo Beige.  Although I admit I am aesthetically challenged, Alamo Beige seems to be less than attractive.  Does a modern repaint of the color make it more appealing? Does the refreshed color have copper tones in it, rather than the brown eggshell look of the faded paint I have under the existing paint?  Does anyone have any recent photos of any such cars from car shows they can send me?  I looked at the internet sources and they seem to confirm the "ugly Betty-ness" of the color.  Except for a photo from GT-4.

www.prnczdi.blackmga.com/gts/namgar_gt04.htm

I may buy some touch-up paint to test it out.

**
-- Robert Guinness
1961 MGA
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 15:13:52 2009
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 17:13:52 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
Message-ID: <c74.5577d490.37a4b890@aol.com>

The colour isn't as dark as shown in the picture.  Colour is very hard  to 
show accurately on the net.
 
If you want personal info, email Colin, the owner of Octagon in Vancouver - 
 contacts are at 
_http://www.octagonmotorgroup.com/contactus.html_ 
(http://www.octagonmotorgroup.com/contactus.html) 
 
They own one and like it.  It isn't coppery, nor pink, it is more of a  
salmon colour, hard to describe.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 7/31/2009 1:40:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
guinness at stclegal.com writes:

Does  anyone on the list know how to contact DJZ Zurawski from Illinois, 
or  anyone else who has an Alamo Beige MGA.  I have discovered that my  
MGA was originally Alamo Beige.  

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 31 15:28:57 2009
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 14:28:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
In-Reply-To: <628809.43676.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C698B029.227C7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That first one isn't Alamo Beige, based on the chip. It's very pale in
comparison -- almost Old English White. The model seems a little more like
it. Color fidelity on the internet is always an issue, however. I'm very
confident in my monitor calibration, for instance, but I can't vouch for the
quality of other people's images.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/31/09 2:03 PM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> Here are some examples -
> 
> http://freerevs.com/car/8670077
> 
> http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgar/shtml/m
> gallery/stewart.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgar/shtml/mg_gallery
> .shtml&usg=__aXxmF_msmbU6aA1GHhJ5jskvj2Y=&h=279&w=400&sz=16&hl=en&start=3&tbni
> d=7DFAGP_a7vy8DM:&tbnh=86&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dalamo%2Bbeige%2Bmg%26gbv
> %3D2%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rlz%3D1B3GGGL_enUS244US244%26sa%3DG
> 
> http://www.hookedonmodels.co.uk/open-80th-anniversary-alamo-beige-p-2823.html
> 
> Personally, I think I'd want to see it in person, but I like it as a neat
> 'period' color, and very rare....
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer
> '65 MGB Tourer (Project)
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Robert J. Guinness <guinness at stclegal.com>
> To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 4:39:02 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
> 
> Does anyone on the list know how to contact DJZ Zurawski from Illinois, or
> anyone else who has an Alamo Beige MGA.  I have discovered that my MGA was
> originally Alamo Beige.  Although I admit I am aesthetically challenged, Alamo
> Beige seems to be less than attractive.  Does a modern repaint of the color
> make it more appealing? Does the refreshed color have copper tones in it,
> rather than the brown eggshell look of the faded paint I have under the
> existing paint?  Does anyone have any recent photos of any such cars from car
> shows they can send me?  I looked at the internet sources and they seem to
> confirm the "ugly Betty-ness" of the color.  Except for a photo from GT-4.
> 
> www.prnczdi.blackmga.com/gts/namgar_gt04.htm
> 
> I may buy some touch-up paint to test it out.
> 
> **
> -- Robert Guinness
> 1961 MGA
> You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 31 19:16:24 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 20:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] title question connecticut
References: <A33AFD811F7049FDBE465FF2309EBAE7@Three><9f2527520903240755o5fc402e4nf9c8c1374da5ec0f@mail.gmail.com><2DA53E53178E40959D36590D2F6D3DA9@Three>
	<1237921390.49c92e6ec4ff8@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <1306478053A4419C8936A93A2D7843AD@ranteer.local>

could someone verify if the state of connecticut requires only a receipt, 
not an actual title for a vehicle over 25 years old?

thanks. 

From ddarby at centurytel.net  Fri Jul 31 19:21:23 2009
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 20:21:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
In-Reply-To: <4A735666.7010706@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <200908010121.n711LL1A023903@mail960c35.nsolutionszone.com>

Robert,

IMHO, of all the unfortunate colors that BMC concocted (and there were a
host of them) Alamo Beige is the most exponentially nauseating, unfortunate
one of all. If you really like it, go for it, but again, just an opinion, I
would choose any color from the BMC palette except that one.

The 1600s could be any color in the range, but the 1500s key the color in
the chassis number. Alamo Beige is a 1600 color. If you want something drab,
but interesting, go for the Dove Grey.

Yours,

David

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 19:28:37 2009
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 21:28:37 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Alamo Beige MGA
Message-ID: <d54.56ebb2e5.37a4f445@aol.com>

FWIW, Dove grey is even rarer than Alamo Beige.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 31/07/2009 6:25:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
ddarby at centurytel.net writes:

The  1600s could be any color in the range, but the 1500s key the color in
the  chassis number. Alamo Beige is a 1600 color. If you want something  
drab,
but interesting, go for the Dove Grey.