From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Dec 1 01:38:20 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 08:38:20 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Late Friday funny References: <4B140B33.2010706@ktc.com> Message-ID: <7769B86B6E874FE5A113BE08666FEF6A@paul> Did you read what the poster wrote? ----- Original Message ----- > Paul, Did you read any of the "reviews?" That's where the amusement > is. "...lining up tequila shots while driving from bar to bar...." > > CR > > > Paul Hunt wrote: >> Errr, either that's nothing to write home about, or Hell is being >> knowingly mis-sold ... >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> Every so often you come across a page at Amazon that is funnier than >>> hell. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 07:22:22 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 06:22:22 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Late Friday funny In-Reply-To: <7769B86B6E874FE5A113BE08666FEF6A@paul> References: <4B140B33.2010706@ktc.com> <7769B86B6E874FE5A113BE08666FEF6A@paul> Message-ID: What I wrote has to do with the difference between comedy and tragedy. If I cut my finger that is a tragedy. If you fall and break your leg that is comedy. Likewise someone else going to hell is very, very funny. me? Not so much. Where am I? Why am I in this hand basket? Rick On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Did you read what the poster wrote? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> Paul, Did you read any of the "reviews?" That's where the amusement is. >> "...lining up tequila shots while driving from bar to bar...." >> >> CR >> >> >> Paul Hunt wrote: >> >>> Errr, either that's nothing to write home about, or Hell is being >>> knowingly mis-sold ... >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> >>>> Every so often you come across a page at Amazon that is funnier than >>>> hell. >>>> >>> > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From thgun at comporium.net Tue Dec 1 11:04:20 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 13:04:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Mgs] mga points Message-ID: <20091201130420.DWJ29308@ms1.comporium.net> What is the correct set of points for my car and who has the best price? 1957 MGA 1500 rst Tom Gunderson From g.schnittke at comcast.net Tue Dec 1 17:08:22 2009 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 18:08:22 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Late Friday funny Message-ID: <4B15AFF6.7080202@comcast.net> Oh, keep this up, guys. This is getting good. > What I wrote has to do with the difference between comedy and tragedy. > If I cut my finger that is a tragedy. If you fall and break your leg that > is comedy. > Likewise someone else going to hell is very, very funny. > me? Not so much. > > Where am I? > Why am I in this hand basket? > Rick > > On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > >> > Did you read what the poster wrote? >> > >> > >> > ----- Original Message ----- >> > >>> >> Paul, Did you read any of the "reviews?" That's where the amusement is. >>> >> "...lining up tequila shots while driving from bar to bar...." >>> >> >>> >> CR >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> Paul Hunt wrote: >>> >> >>>> >>> Errr, either that's nothing to write home about, or Hell is being >>>> >>> knowingly mis-sold ... >>>> >>> >>>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> >>> >>>>> >>>> Every so often you come across a page at Amazon that is funnier than >>>>> >>>> hell. >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> --------------------------------- Comedy tomorrow, tragedy tonight. - Psuedolus From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 18:17:36 2009 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 17:17:36 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] mga points In-Reply-To: <20091201130420.DWJ29308@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20091201130420.DWJ29308@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <40b437200912011717g8dd507bx15b9a8c475517499@mail.gmail.com> tom, don't assume that you have the correct distributor. take the existing points out and inspect them for part numbers. simon On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 10:04 AM, wrote: > What is the correct set of points for my car and who has the best price? > 1957 MGA 1500 rst > Tom Gunderson From otis15 at aol.com Tue Dec 1 18:34:02 2009 From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 20:34:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [list] The coolest cars on the coolest road! (nmc) In-Reply-To: <397C0A7D-411E-4BB1-8284-1EB990392001@gmail.com> References: <397C0A7D-411E-4BB1-8284-1EB990392001@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CC4106A9812AA2-198C-F798@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com> Wow would I love to live at the top of that road in Romania I would go to the store five times a day. Steve -----Original Message----- From: Chris Adams To: list at miatamail.com Sent: Tue, Dec 1, 2009 5:14 pm Subject: [list] The coolest cars on the coolest road! (nmc) Thought some of you might like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2-RJJfV8VA&feature=player_embedded ___________________________________________________________________ MIATAMAIL LIST To send a message to the list, email: list at miatamail.com To subscribe, email: list-subscribe at miatamail.com To subscribe to the digest, email: list-digest-subscribe at miatamail.com To unsubscribe, email: list-unsubscribe at miatamail.com To unsubscribe from the digest, email: list-digest-unsubscribe at miatamail.com To contact the list administrator, email: list-owner at miatamail.com From sales at justbrits.com Tue Dec 1 20:19:44 2009 From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 21:19:44 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [list] The coolest cars on the coolest road! (nmc) In-Reply-To: <8CC4106A9812AA2-198C-F798@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com> References: <397C0A7D-411E-4BB1-8284-1EB990392001@gmail.com> <8CC4106A9812AA2-198C-F798@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B15DCD0.2040407@justbrits.com> << I would go to the store five times a day. >> Just think of how MANY SETS of tyres you would be monthly !!!!! LOL Ed From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 2 02:10:15 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 09:10:15 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Late Friday funny References: <4B15AFF6.7080202@comcast.net> Message-ID: OK - "Oooo, you are an old drama queen ..." ----- Original Message ----- > Oh, keep this up, guys. This is getting good. > >> If I cut my finger that is a tragedy. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 2 02:16:21 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 09:16:21 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] mga points References: <20091201130420.DWJ29308@ms1.comporium.net> <40b437200912011717g8dd507bx15b9a8c475517499@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I doubt they will be marked with a part number. You *will* have to take them out, then look at the style as well as the part number of the distributor which *is* on the outside. There are four different types of points just for the Lucas 25D4 and 45D4 distributors which I think can be fitted to an MGA, and you may have an after-market one. The two for the 25D4 *may* be interchangeable but I haven't tried. The two for the 45D definitely aren't, nor with the 25D4 types. You might like to have a look at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_ignitionframe.htm and click on 'Points Types' which was written with the MGB in mind. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > don't assume that you have the correct distributor. take the existing > points out and inspect them for part numbers. From mg_garage at comcast.net Wed Dec 2 04:51:35 2009 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 06:51:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] mga points References: <20091201130420.DWJ29308@ms1.comporium.net><40b437200912011717g8dd507bx15b9a8c475517499@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Chances are you have either a DM2 (correct original for a 1500) or a 25D4 and points are interchangeable between the two. If you happen to have a Mallory dual point, it is a different story. Gordie '62 MGA '67 BGT >I doubt they will be marked with a part number. You *will* have to take >them out, then look at the style as well as the part number of the >distributor which *is* on the outside. There are four different types of >points just for the Lucas 25D4 and 45D4 distributors which I think can be >fitted to an MGA, and you may have an after-market one. The two for the >25D4 *may* be interchangeable but I haven't tried. The two for the 45D >definitely aren't, nor with the 25D4 types. You might like to have a look >at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_ignitionframe.htm and click on 'Points >Types' which was written with the MGB in mind. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> don't assume that you have the correct distributor. take the existing >> points out and inspect them for part numbers. > > _______________________________________________ From don at napanet.net Wed Dec 2 15:12:02 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 14:12:02 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure Message-ID: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net> My '62 MGA has been sitting for way too long. I put new Interstate 6V batteries in it, as the old ones were goners. I removed sparkplugs, and did some tinkering to get the starter switch working again. So, engine spins, but no oil pressure. I have had this happen before when the car sat a long time. I primed the oil system before, but I can't remember the best way to do it. Unlike most MGAs, the Mk IIs have large rubber flexible hoses that go to an oil cooler (similar to an MGB setup). Anybody out there know best way to get oil into the oil pump? Also, in my stash of parts I find several sets of NOS NGK BP6ES plugs. I know these fit MGBS, but are they suitable for MGA as well? I hope to get it roadworthy again in hopes of trading it towrds/for a nice (better than "driver") early steel-dash MGB roadster. My MGA is what you would call a "driver", but it is unusual in its being never hit or rusted, nor suffered shoddy body repairs. _________________________________________________________ Don Scott Calistoga CA 2001 Miata SE BRG 1973 MGB GT 1962 MGA Mk II From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Dec 2 16:29:18 2009 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 18:29:18 EST Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure Message-ID: The plugs are the same. Remove the oil hose going to the back of the block, stick a funnel into the block and run as much oil in there as it will take. Reconnect the hose and crank. It should prime. Bill In a message dated 12/2/2009 3:02:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, don at napanet.net writes: I primed the oil system before, but I can't remember the best way to do it. Unlike most MGAs, the Mk IIs have large rubber flexible hoses that go to an oil cooler (similar to an MGB setup). Anybody out there know best way to get oil into the oil pump? Also, in my stash of parts I find several sets of NOS NGK BP6ES plugs. I know these fit MGBS, but are they suitable for MGA as well? From mg_garage at comcast.net Wed Dec 2 17:22:13 2009 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 19:22:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure References: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <62E95C9EF3AE474598ECB9298315E2FC@stargate> After filling as Bill has mentioned, it may still take several minutes of cranking to build oil pressure. > My '62 MGA has been sitting for way too long. I put new Interstate 6V > batteries in it, as the old ones were goners. I removed sparkplugs, and > did some tinkering to get the starter switch working again. So, engine > spins, but no oil pressure. I have had this happen before when the car > sat a long time. I primed the oil system before, but I can't remember the > best way to do it. Unlike most MGAs, the Mk IIs have large rubber > flexible hoses that go to an oil cooler (similar to an MGB setup). > Anybody out there know best way to get oil into the oil pump? > > Also, in my stash of parts I find several sets of NOS NGK BP6ES plugs. I > know these fit MGBS, but are they suitable for MGA as well? > > I hope to get it roadworthy again in hopes of trading it towrds/for a nice > (better than "driver") early steel-dash MGB roadster. My MGA is what you > would call a "driver", but it is unusual in its being never hit or rusted, > nor suffered shoddy body repairs. > > _________________________________________________________ > > > Don Scott > Calistoga CA > 2001 Miata SE BRG > 1973 MGB GT > 1962 MGA Mk II > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 4656 (20091202) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Dec 3 04:33:25 2009 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 05:33:25 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure In-Reply-To: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net> References: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <571418.58940.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Disconnect the large oil hose from RR corner of engine block. Input oil here as you rotate engine backward (use 4th gear and roll car backward with spark plugs removed). With one pint of oil installed this way the oil pump will be full and will pump. It may still require up to 30 seconds of cranking to fill the oil cooler and hoses and filter before you see pressure on the gauge. At 02:12 PM 12/2/2009 -0800, Don Scott wrote: >My '62 MGA has been sitting for way too long. .... engine spins, but >no oil pressure. .... the Mk IIs have large rubber flexible hoses >that go to an oil cooler .... Anybody out there know best way to get >oil into the oil pump? >.... From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Dec 3 05:34:35 2009 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 04:34:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure In-Reply-To: <571418.58940.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net> <571418.58940.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <909290.17145.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Can you actually roll the car backwards while it's in a 'forward' gear? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Barney Gaylord To: don ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, December 3, 2009 6:33:25 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] no oil pressure Disconnect the large oil hose from RR corner of engine block. Input oil here as you rotate engine backward (use 4th gear and roll car backward with spark plugs removed). With one pint of oil installed this way the oil pump will be full and will pump. It may still require up to 30 seconds of cranking to fill the oil cooler and hoses and filter before you see pressure on the gauge. At 02:12 PM 12/2/2009 -0800, Don Scott wrote: > My '62 MGA has been sitting for way too long. .... engine spins, but no oil pressure. .... the Mk IIs have large rubber flexible hoses that go to an oil cooler .... Anybody out there know best way to get oil into the oil pump? > .... Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Dec 3 07:06:17 2009 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 08:06:17 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure In-Reply-To: <909290.17145.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net> <571418.58940.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <909290.17145.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <273C74F4-41EC-4031-AE30-DBF82EEFE176@gmail.com> yes. That's how you move the camshaft when your setting the timng. On Dec 3, 2009, at 6:34 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Can you actually roll the car backwards while it's in a 'forward' gear? > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ > twitter: dandibiase From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Dec 3 07:11:02 2009 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 08:11:02 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure In-Reply-To: <909290.17145.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net> <571418.58940.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <909290.17145.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <678882.27497.qm@smtp117.sbc.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Yes. It is common to push start the car by rolling it forward in 2nd gear and pop the clutch. In 4th gear it goes easy enough to turn the engine by rolling the car while the clutch is engaged. Rolling forward or backward turns the engine accordingly. This is a common way to rotate the engine for setting valve clearance or ignition points. Turning backward is also a good way to free a stuck starter gear. At 04:34 AM 12/3/2009 -0800, Dan DiBiase wrote: >Can you actually roll the car backwards while it's in a 'forward' gear? >.... > > >From: Barney Gaylord >To: don ; mgs at autox.team.net >Sent: Thu, December 3, 2009 6:33:25 AM >Subject: Re: [Mgs] no oil pressure > >Disconnect the large oil hose from RR corner of engine block. Input >oil here as you rotate engine backward (use 4th gear and roll car >backward with spark plugs removed). With one pint of oil installed >this way the oil pump will be full and will pump. It may still >require up to 30 seconds of cranking to fill the oil cooler and >hoses and filter before you see pressure on the gauge. > > >At 02:12 PM 12/2/2009 -0800, Don Scott wrote: > > My '62 MGA has been sitting for way too long. .... engine spins, > but no oil pressure. .... the Mk IIs have large rubber flexible > hoses that go to an oil cooler .... Anybody out there know best way > to get oil into the oil pump? > > .... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Dec 3 07:15:35 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 14:15:35 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure References: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net><571418.58940.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <909290.17145.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5A9F87CC4BFA452EA2F933E1D08B8B4D@paul> If you don't mind turning the engine backwards. ----- Original Message ----- > Can you actually roll the car backwards while it's in a 'forward' gear? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Dec 3 08:50:52 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 15:50:52 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] no oil pressure References: <20091202221236.C2CEE24DCE3@mail.napanet.net><571418.58940.qm@smtp102.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><909290.17145.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <273C74F4-41EC-4031-AE30-DBF82EEFE176@gmail.com> Message-ID: <961A030C5EAA4E1F9995979AA4D084D6@paul> To get it to before the trigger point yes, but you should only ever set and test it turning the engine forwards again to get rid of the lost motion. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > That's how you move the camshaft when your setting the timng. From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com Thu Dec 3 10:59:55 2009 From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 12:59:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Worth anything? Message-ID: <997D56EB-7A6F-42DC-B621-A0BB88A7131B@trebelhorn.com> Some misc garage junk that needs to be cleaned up, and I'm wondering what, if anything, they're worth. 2 sets of SUs, with manifolds etc. One set off a '70 MGB, one off an earlier MG. Don't know the year -- it was stripped by a neighbor before we moved in, and he gave us all the parts when he moved out. smog pump and rail 2 1970's vintage -- possibly original? -- 6V batteries. Any ideas/estimates? In the DC area. Thanks Matt From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 3 13:14:24 2009 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 12:14:24 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Worth anything? In-Reply-To: <997D56EB-7A6F-42DC-B621-A0BB88A7131B@trebelhorn.com> Message-ID: I could use the pair of HS-4s for rebuilding. One of mine may be too far gone. on 12/3/09 9:59 AM, Matt Trebelhorn at matt.lists at trebelhorn.com wrote: > Some misc garage junk that needs to be cleaned up, and I'm wondering > what, if anything, they're worth. > > 2 sets of SUs, with manifolds etc. One set off a '70 MGB, one off an > earlier MG. Don't know the year -- it was stripped by a neighbor > before we moved in, and he gave us all the parts when he moved out. > > smog pump and rail > 2 1970's vintage -- possibly original? -- 6V batteries. > > Any ideas/estimates? > > In the DC area. > > Thanks > Matt > -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From thgun at comporium.net Thu Dec 3 18:54:52 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 20:54:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA cluch Message-ID: I got my engine running. Thanks guys for the tips and info. I now go to the next thing. The clutch. This car has been sitting for a while. Now the clutch pedal does not have any preasure behind it. I found that the tank was very low on fluid. I filled it but it still has no pedal. I see no leaking fluid. It seems to have brake preasure. Do I need to bleed the clutch? The resevoir push rod moves in and out and the rod seems spring back out. Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Dec 3 23:08:45 2009 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 06:08:45 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGA cluch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <21F5FC67-7CF5-4F9B-B737-81AE405008D0@googlemail.com> Sounds like you need to bleed the clutch, yes. I've never had an A, so I don't know if there are any special tips or techniqes for that car. You may not see a leak now, but I'd still be very suspicious that there is one. The fluid that was in there must have got out somehow. Richard and Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) On 4 Dec 2009, at 01:54 AM, "Tom Gunderson" wrote: > I got my engine running. Thanks guys for the tips and info. I now go > to the > next thing. The clutch. This car has been sitting for a while. Now > the clutch > pedal does not have any preasure behind it. I found that the tank > was very low > on fluid. I filled it but it still has no pedal. I see no leaking > fluid. It > seems to have brake preasure. Do I need to bleed the clutch? The > resevoir push > rod moves in and out and the rod seems spring back out. > > Tom Gunderson > 1957 MGA 1500 rst > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Dec 4 02:19:46 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 09:19:46 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGA cluch References: Message-ID: On an MGB at least the quickest and easiest way to bleed the clutch is to hook it up to the closest front brake, open both nipples, then use the footbrake pedal to reverse bleed the clutch (keeping an eye on brake master fluid level). What makes normal forward bleeding so difficult on the MGB is the long vertical relatively large-bore pipe with the inverted U at the top, even continuous bleeding as with a Gunsons EeziBleed isn't easy (pun not intended). PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... This car has been sitting for a while. Now the clutch > pedal does not have any preasure behind it. I found that the tank was very > low > on fluid. I filled it but it still has no pedal. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Dec 5 10:51:28 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 10:51:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale Message-ID: <4B1A9DA0.5020600@bradakis.com> http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494504371.html Are MGBs really worth that much ;-) mjb. From james.f.juhas at snet.net Sat Dec 5 12:52:52 2009 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 14:52:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1A9DA0.5020600@bradakis.com> References: <4B1A9DA0.5020600@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B1ABA14.7090008@snet.net> I don't think so. Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, but it seems to much to pay for an anemic sports car. Mark J Bradakis wrote: > http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494504371.html > > Are MGBs really worth that much ;-) > > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- From barrie at look.ca Sat Dec 5 13:58:07 2009 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 15:58:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Lucas Voltage Regulator Message-ID: Anyone got a defunct Lucas RB106/2 voltage regulator? I just need the base so I can get it converted to a solid state device. Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca (705) 721-9060 From WSpohn4 at aol.com Sat Dec 5 14:22:59 2009 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:22:59 EST Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale Message-ID: Really? In a message dated 05/12/2009 12:32:55 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, james.f.juhas at snet.net writes: Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, From mark at bradakis.com Sat Dec 5 14:40:27 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 14:40:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B1AD34B.2060405@bradakis.com> > Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, > > Okay, here's the plan. There are roughly 500 people subscribed to this MG list. The LE is selling for $12,500. So if each and every one of you uses the donate link below to send me $25, that's the asking price of the car. Send $30 if you want to reward me with a tasty beverage for my selfless efforts in taking on this task. I'll go down to Tempe and buy it. Both my wife and I have family in the area, a visit would be nice. As a matter of fact she's down there this weekend for her sister's birthday. Anyway, I'll purchase the car on the list's behalf, drive it around for a while and let you know if it was really worth it. Being a Triumph guy, I'm sure I'll be able to offer an unbiased, factual opinion not tainted by emotional attachment to the MG marque. In truth I wouldn't mind having that TR7, a fairly watertight coupe for wet winter days, like today in Salt Lake, might be nice. He's also got some other cars from his collection for sale: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494454140.html Some neat stuff. Remember, donate early, donate often! mjb. From steve at shoyer.com Sat Dec 5 15:17:49 2009 From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer) Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 17:17:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1A9DA0.5020600@bradakis.com> References: <4B1A9DA0.5020600@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I think the question should be: Have Triumphs really come up so much in price, compared with MGs? ;-) -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494504371.html Are MGBs really worth that much ;-) From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sat Dec 5 16:04:18 2009 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 17:04:18 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31F0F91F1D334CCA8CD0F63CDC083C12@HomePC> Hey, speak nicely of those, Bill. I have one and it needs to be spoken highly of in case I ever want to sell it. ;-)) -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 3:22 PM To: ; Cc: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale Really? In a message dated 05/12/2009 12:32:55 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, james.f.juhas at snet.net writes: Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sat Dec 5 15:28:42 2009 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 14:28:42 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >From what I've seen, the only clean, low-mile original MGBs that ever come up for sale are 1980 LE models (logically enough). It seems like a lot of people bought them and stashed them away thinking they would be collector's items someday. At any rate, they didn't drive them. So that is probably why they are frequently seen advertised for prices that seem somewhat rich given their desirability to MG purists. But I don't think $12,500 was unreasonable, really (35K miles!). And for RB models, 1979-80 were clearly the best years. The drivability was much improved, and the level of equipment was superior. Also consider that the whole package has had 10-15 years less "aging" than a mid-60s B. Not really my cup of tea (I could get a plastic dashboard in a modern car, if I wanted one), but I can see why they have their own fan base. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 12/5/09 1:22 PM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > Really? > > In a message dated 05/12/2009 12:32:55 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > james.f.juhas at snet.net writes: > > Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, From WSpohn4 at aol.com Sat Dec 5 17:02:55 2009 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 19:02:55 EST Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale Message-ID: Let me know when you want to sell and I'll try to muster up some compliments! :-)) In a message dated 05/12/2009 3:54:17 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: Hey, speak nicely of those, Bill. I have one and it needs to be spoken highly of in case I ever want to sell it. From g.schnittke at comcast.net Sat Dec 5 18:06:11 2009 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 19:06:11 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale Message-ID: <4B1B0383.7070808@comcast.net> No. Except to the sucker. I still hold to Scott Fisher's old $5000 daily driver breakpoint. It may have gone up a little, but there are still too many of them out there to push the market that far. BMH still makes bodyshells. Glenn > http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494504371.html > > Are MGBs really worth that much ;-) > > > mjb. -- Tragedy tomorrow, comedy tonight. - Psuedolus From vdiorio at hotmail.com Sat Dec 5 18:44:32 2009 From: vdiorio at hotmail.com (vincent diorio) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 01:44:32 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: MY '80 "B", 3rd owner, was stashed by the dealer, so I concur. It only has 15K on it! 15K!!! Never seen snow and VERY LITTLE RAIN! $12,500? MAYBE! > Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 14:28:42 -0800 > From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale > > >From what I've seen, the only clean, low-mile original MGBs that ever come > up for sale are 1980 LE models (logically enough). It seems like a lot of > people bought them and stashed them away thinking they would be collector's > items someday. At any rate, they didn't drive them. > > So that is probably why they are frequently seen advertised for prices that > seem somewhat rich given their desirability to MG purists. But I don't think > $12,500 was unreasonable, really (35K miles!). And for RB models, 1979-80 > were clearly the best years. The drivability was much improved, and the > level of equipment was superior. > > Also consider that the whole package has had 10-15 years less "aging" than a > mid-60s B. > > Not really my cup of tea (I could get a plastic dashboard in a modern car, > if I wanted one), but I can see why they have their own fan base. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > > on 12/5/09 1:22 PM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > > > Really? > > > > In a message dated 05/12/2009 12:32:55 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > > james.f.juhas at snet.net writes: > > > > Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slideid=1 &media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-U S:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009 From james.f.juhas at snet.net Sat Dec 5 20:43:53 2009 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 22:43:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1AD34B.2060405@bradakis.com> References: <4B1AD34B.2060405@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B1B2879.10302@snet.net> Well, Mark, it's about that time that I should be sending you some money anyway. I suppose I have no real control or influence over how you spend it. Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, >> >> > > Okay, here's the plan. There are roughly 500 people subscribed to > this MG list. > The LE is selling for $12,500. So if each and every one of you uses > the donate > link below to send me $25, that's the asking price of the car. Send > $30 if you > want to reward me with a tasty beverage for my selfless efforts in > taking on > this task. I'll go down to Tempe and buy it. Both my wife and I have > family > in the area, a visit would be nice. As a matter of fact she's down > there this > weekend for her sister's birthday. > > Anyway, I'll purchase the car on the list's behalf, drive it around > for a while > and let you know if it was really worth it. Being a Triumph guy, I'm > sure > I'll be able to offer an unbiased, factual opinion not tainted by > emotional > attachment to the MG marque. > > In truth I wouldn't mind having that TR7, a fairly watertight coupe > for wet > winter days, like today in Salt Lake, might be nice. > > He's also got some other cars from his collection for sale: > > http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494454140.html > > > Some neat stuff. > > Remember, donate early, donate often! > > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- From james.f.juhas at snet.net Sat Dec 5 20:45:34 2009 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 22:45:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B1B28DE.9040203@snet.net> Hey, what can I say? I belong to an MG club where the predominant model is MGB. I hear this sort of thing. WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > Really? > > In a message dated 05/12/2009 12:32:55 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > james.f.juhas at snet.net writes: > > Some people speak highly of clean LE versions, From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Dec 5 23:36:42 2009 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 00:36:42 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear Message-ID: <297854.67073.qm@smtp115.sbc.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I'm posting this in a few different places, so please excuse any duplicates. For those people who may have an MGA chassis or frame with body off, can you measure the inside and outside width of the frame where the rear bumper brackets attach? I would like measurements from two or three different frames to verify consistency (or amount of possible variation). I need this for a wheel chair lift I'm working on that will attach to the frame similar to a trailer hitch bracket. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From mark at bradakis.com Sun Dec 6 01:29:29 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 01:29:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1B2879.10302@snet.net> References: <4B1AD34B.2060405@bradakis.com> <4B1B2879.10302@snet.net> Message-ID: <4B1B6B69.7050002@bradakis.com> Jim Juhas wrote: > Well, Mark, it's about that time that I should be sending you some > money anyway. I suppose I have no real control or influence over how > you spend it. Many years ago when I first had to move Team.Net from the U of U to my home I had the very first fund drive to help cover the expenses involved in running it here in the "Man Cave" as my sister-in-law calls it. A subscriber on one of the lists at the time ( way less than the 60+ now in place ) was skeptical, and asked something like "How do we know he won't spend it on his own cars or beer or something?" And another subscriber responded, and I wish I could find that email exchange somewhere. Basically he said "So what if he does?" His point was that as long as the Team.Net mail kept showing up every day, he was happy to pay a few bucks now and again to keep me happy and at keyboard doing what it takes to keep it flowing. I do spend most donations on the DSL and ISP bills and keeping the hardware working. Some contributors specifically require their funds to go into the Fat Chance Garage Tool and Beverage Fund, rather then Team.Net general operating accounts. ( Does that sound professional or what? ) You might remember the fund drive in September regarding the whining disk and imminent failure. How many days since then have you been without Team.Net? Some times I do wish I actually kept a precise accounting of what I spend on monthly fees, hardware upgrades and such, as well as the exact amounts of donations that have come in over the years. Then taking that info coupled with an accurate measure of the hours per week I spend keeping it going, I could see what I am getting paid for doing this. Sometimes, though, I think that number might actually be negative. Maybe that's why I don't want to really do the math! Gee, I'm rambling off, my original intention for this reply was to justify the purchase of an MGB for MJB with donations. But of course, I don't think $12,500 is going to show up in Paypal or checks in the PO Box. $12.50 maybe, but even that might be a long shot! mjb. From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Dec 6 01:59:43 2009 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 09:59:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale References: <4B1A9DA0.5020600@bradakis.com> Message-ID: In the Netherlands these prices would be reasonable, provided the cars are in a good condition as advertised. Issue is, how to get these over the ocean, get these imported (tax) and titled... So at the end for these prices it is not worth while. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: "MG LIST" Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 6:51 PM Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale > http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494504371.html > > Are MGBs really worth that much ;-) From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Dec 6 05:33:20 2009 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 06:33:20 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1B6B69.7050002@bradakis.com> References: <4B1AD34B.2060405@bradakis.com> <4B1B2879.10302@snet.net> <4B1B6B69.7050002@bradakis.com> Message-ID: We'll, I just bounced you over $12.50. Like Jim said, it was probably about time. I don't suppose you'd want to divert some money to the Twin Cities viewing chapter of Teams.net? I broke my screen of my laptop. By that I mean I left the laptop in the living room when I went to work, and came back to it broken. It's still 80% usable. :-( On Dec 6, 2009, at 2:29 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Jim Juhas wrote: >> Well, Mark, it's about that time that I should be sending you some money anyway. I suppose I have no real control or influence over how you spend it. > > Many years ago when I first had to move Team.Net from the U of U to my home > I had the very first fund drive to help cover the expenses involved in running it > here in the "Man Cave" as my sister-in-law calls it. A subscriber on one of > the lists at the time ( way less than the 60+ now in place ) was skeptical, and > asked something like "How do we know he won't spend it on his own cars or > beer or something?" > > And another subscriber responded, and I wish I could find that email exchange > somewhere. Basically he said "So what if he does?" His point was that as > long as the Team.Net mail kept showing up every day, he was happy to pay > a few bucks now and again to keep me happy and at keyboard doing what it > takes to keep it flowing. > > I do spend most donations on the DSL and ISP bills and keeping the hardware > working. Some contributors specifically require their funds to go into the > Fat Chance Garage Tool and Beverage Fund, rather then Team.Net general > operating accounts. ( Does that sound professional or what? ) > > You might remember the fund drive in September regarding the > whining disk and imminent failure. How many days since then have you > been without Team.Net? Some times I do wish I actually kept a precise > accounting of what I spend on monthly fees, hardware upgrades and such, > as well as the exact amounts of donations that have come in over the years. > Then taking that info coupled with an accurate measure of the hours per > week I spend keeping it going, I could see what I am getting paid for doing > this. Sometimes, though, I think that number might actually be negative. > Maybe that's why I don't want to really do the math! > > Gee, I'm rambling off, my original intention for this reply was to justify the > purchase of an MGB for MJB with donations. But of course, I don't think > $12,500 is going to show up in Paypal or checks in the PO Box. $12.50 > maybe, but even that might be a long shot! > > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From barrie at look.ca Sun Dec 6 10:49:42 2009 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 12:49:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1B6B69.7050002@bradakis.com> References: <4B1AD34B.2060405@bradakis.com> <4B1B2879.10302@snet.net> <4B1B6B69.7050002@bradakis.com> Message-ID: As someone who set up a web site for enthusiasts (www.britcot.com) I know what it is like financially and the expenditure of time. I think Mark does an awesome job and his site is better than any other that I have come across. What I like is that one does not have to search through "forums" and no "signing on". Mark..going to the site to donate - spend it on beer. If you can find Charles Wells IPA - try it...it's excellent. At 03:29 AM 12/6/2009, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >Jim Juhas wrote: >>Well, Mark, it's about that time that I should be sending you some >>money anyway. I suppose I have no real control or influence over >>how you spend it. > >Many years ago when I first had to move Team.Net from the U of U to my home >I had the very first fund drive to help cover the expenses involved >in running it >here in the "Man Cave" as my sister-in-law calls it. A subscriber on one of >the lists at the time ( way less than the 60+ now in place ) was >skeptical, and >asked something like "How do we know he won't spend it on his own cars or >beer or something?" > >And another subscriber responded, and I wish I could find that email exchange >somewhere. Basically he said "So what if he does?" His point was that as >long as the Team.Net mail kept showing up every day, he was happy to pay >a few bucks now and again to keep me happy and at keyboard doing what it >takes to keep it flowing. > >I do spend most donations on the DSL and ISP bills and keeping the hardware >working. Some contributors specifically require their funds to go into the >Fat Chance Garage Tool and Beverage Fund, rather then Team.Net general >operating accounts. ( Does that sound professional or what? ) > >You might remember the fund drive in September regarding the >whining disk and imminent failure. How many days since then have you >been without Team.Net? Some times I do wish I actually kept a precise >accounting of what I spend on monthly fees, hardware upgrades and such, >as well as the exact amounts of donations that have come in over the years. >Then taking that info coupled with an accurate measure of the hours per >week I spend keeping it going, I could see what I am getting paid for doing >this. Sometimes, though, I think that number might actually be negative. >Maybe that's why I don't want to really do the math! > >Gee, I'm rambling off, my original intention for this reply was to justify the >purchase of an MGB for MJB with donations. But of course, I don't think >$12,500 is going to show up in Paypal or checks in the PO Box. $12.50 >maybe, but even that might be a long shot! > > >mjb. > >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 8.5.426 / Virus Database: 270.14.96/2548 - Release Date: >12/06/09 07:30:00 Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From wilkmanracing at aol.com Sun Dec 6 11:49:46 2009 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 13:49:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Question About Oil Loss Message-ID: <8CC44BC0428AAB0-259C-1EABF@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> I've had the following experience with both an MGB (race car) I used to own and an MGA (street car) I currently own. After the rebuild of the engines in both these cars, oil leaked from the rear crankshaft "seal" area. In both cases, the cars were relatively leak-free while running, but dropped significant amounts of oil after turning the engine off. The B had this problem right after the rebuild. The A didn't exhibit this problem unitl after around 900 miles of post rebuild driving. Both cars had no obstructions in their breather tubes. The B, in fact, had two breathers attached to the engine. Different rebuilders did the work on each engine and both are known for skills in building race engines for British cars. I'm told there is no after market seal that really works on these cars. I'd be interested to hear what others think of this situation. Bill Wilkman From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net Sun Dec 6 15:50:38 2009 From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (Sam DeSalvo) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 17:50:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] axle shaft removal Message-ID: hi All, I am replacing the thrust washers on my "72 MGB. Got the hub off along with the backplate, and now need to slide the axle out a short bit. What is the secret to getting it to slide out? Thanks in advance for any help. Sam '78 MGB "72 MGB "52 MGTD "55 AH 100-4 From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Sun Dec 6 16:47:28 2009 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 18:47:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] axle shaft removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00ec01ca76ce$78be7a10$6a3b6e30$@com> The bearings are pressed in. Easiest way to get them out without the proper puller is to get some all thread and nuts, fix them in the axle housing so they hold out the flange assembly (but with enough thread so you can get a good start on the axle nut), and screw in the nut with an impact wrench. It will pull the axle out. Sorry, I don't have a picture since what I described is easy to see, but hard to say. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sam DeSalvo Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 5:51 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] axle shaft removal hi All, I am replacing the thrust washers on my "72 MGB. Got the hub off along with the backplate, and now need to slide the axle out a short bit. What is the secret to getting it to slide out? Thanks in advance for any help. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sun Dec 6 19:54:35 2009 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 21:54:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4264CC750D0E4970B3559F29C580CE4C@EricJRussellPC> Barney, attached are some photos I snapped of a spare frame with a tape measure for reference. Let me know if this is not what you need. Also let me know if you need higher resolution copies. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 00:36:42 -0600 > From: Barney Gaylord > Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear > For those people who may have an MGA chassis or frame with body off, > can you measure the inside and outside width of the frame where the > rear bumper brackets attach? I would like measurements from two or > three different frames to verify consistency (or amount of possible > variation). I need this for a wheel chair lift I'm working on that > will attach to the frame similar to a trailer hitch bracket. > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http://MGAguru.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 01.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 02.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 03.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 04.jpg] From barneymg at mgaguru.com Mon Dec 7 01:07:46 2009 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 02:07:46 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Question About Oil Loss In-Reply-To: <8CC44BC0428AAB0-259C-1EABF@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC44BC0428AAB0-259C-1EABF@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <304864.94522.qm@smtp117.sbc.mail.re3.yahoo.com> This is most often a probelm with some damage to the mating surfaces of the mechanical rear seal. See the following tech articles: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg212.pdf http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs106.htm http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs107.htm http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs109.htm http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs202a.htm Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA wih an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 01:49 PM 12/6/2009 -0500, Bill Wilkman (wilkmanracing at aol.com) wrote: >.... After the rebuild of the engines in both these cars, oil leaked >from the rear crankshaft "seal" area. In both cases, the cars were >relatively leak-free while running, but dropped significant amounts >of oil after turning the engine off. .... I'm told there is no >after market seal that really works on these cars. >.... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Dec 7 01:56:41 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 08:56:41 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] axle shaft removal References: Message-ID: <8E45206B7BAA4042A48D56F5D326F2CD@paul> Loosely refit the hub and simply tap with a soft hammer or mallet on opposite sides alternately and it should pull the bearing out, it is only a light interference fit. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I am replacing the thrust washers on my "72 MGB. Got the hub off along > with > the backplate, and now need to slide the axle out a short bit. What is the > secret to getting it to slide out? Thanks in advance for any help. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Dec 7 01:54:28 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 08:54:28 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Question About Oil Loss References: <8CC44BC0428AAB0-259C-1EABF@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Speaking for my own MGB it doesn't drop oil and never has in the 20 years I've been driving it, but I know many do. All MGBs always had two breather ports to the engine. In the early days which was suction and which was inlet was very hit and miss, after that suction (first from a PCV valve then from carb(s)) was always applied to the front tappet chest cover and the inlet was always via the rocker cover in the shape of a vented oil filler cap on charcoal canister cars and via a port on the back on canister cars. But in any case only dropping oil after switch-off isn't a breather issue, and the it to be an issue anyway both would have to be blocked and it would be more likely to blow oil with the engine running, initially at least. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... Both cars had no obstructions > in their breather tubes. The B, in fact, had two breathers attached to > the > engine... I'm told there is no > after market seal that really works on these cars. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Dec 7 06:30:14 2009 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 05:30:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear In-Reply-To: <4264CC750D0E4970B3559F29C580CE4C@EricJRussellPC> References: <4264CC750D0E4970B3559F29C580CE4C@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <281428.38153.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Eric, you probably realized by now that the list doesn't allow attachments..... ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Eric J Russell To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, December 6, 2009 9:54:35 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear Barney, attached are some photos I snapped of a spare frame with a tape measure for reference. Let me know if this is not what you need. Also let me know if you need higher resolution copies. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 00:36:42 -0600 > From: Barney Gaylord > Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear > For those people who may have an MGA chassis or frame with body off, > can you measure the inside and outside width of the frame where the > rear bumper brackets attach? I would like measurements from two or > three different frames to verify consistency (or amount of possible > variation). I need this for a wheel chair lift I'm working on that > will attach to the frame similar to a trailer hitch bracket. > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http://MGAguru.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 01.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 02.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 03.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of frame 04.jpg] From ccrobins at ktc.com Mon Dec 7 09:16:47 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:16:47 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1B0383.7070808@comcast.net> References: <4B1B0383.7070808@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B1D2A6F.4010200@ktc.com> It's funny what people will find desirable. I came across a MGB LE at a car show that had only a couple of K on the clock. Nice little car but the guy trailered it everywhere. The low mileage was the big deal, to him. $5K huh? I blew it then; had about $6K in my '69 after the paint & body work. Never get that for it in my area. That was a lot of years ago though and I figure I've driven a lot of $$ out since then. I rebuilt it to drive it, not to look at it. CR Glenn Schnittke wrote: > No. Except to the sucker. > > I still hold to Scott Fisher's old $5000 daily driver breakpoint. It > may have gone up a little, but there are still too many of them out > there to push the market that far. BMH still makes bodyshells. > > Glenn > >> http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1494504371.html >> >> Are MGBs really worth that much ;-) >> >> >> mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Mon Dec 7 10:19:05 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:19:05 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear In-Reply-To: <281428.38153.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4264CC750D0E4970B3559F29C580CE4C@EricJRussellPC> <281428.38153.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B1D3909.1040602@bradakis.com> Dan DiBiase wrote: > Eric, you probably realized by now that the list doesn't allow attachments..... ;-) > Yes, the email server does not allow pictures and such. One can put pictures on http://www.team.net/forums, then send a note about them to the list. mjb. From ccrobins at ktc.com Mon Dec 7 10:41:31 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 11:41:31 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Question About Oil Loss In-Reply-To: <8CC44BC0428AAB0-259C-1EABF@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC44BC0428AAB0-259C-1EABF@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B1D3E4B.9090903@ktc.com> I had a Fiat Spyder DOHC engine that leaked oil from one cam seal. Couldn't get it stopped until I realized the oil was going around the seal, not through it. Gasket cement around a new seal cured the problem. I put Speedi-Sleeves on both ends of the crank in my MGB engine. The rear seal leaks and the front doesn't. Doesn't leak a lot but I'll find a small puddle under it when the car is parked for an extended time. Another leak source is the filter adapter seal. Have you isolated it? CR wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote: > I've had the following experience with both an MGB (race car) I used to own > and an MGA (street car) I currently own. After the rebuild of the engines in > both these cars, oil leaked from the rear crankshaft "seal" area. In both > cases, the cars were relatively leak-free while running, but dropped > significant amounts of oil after turning the engine off. > Bill Wilkman From barnhart at geneseo.net Mon Dec 7 14:08:14 2009 From: barnhart at geneseo.net (barnhart at geneseo.net) Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 15:08:14 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) Message-ID: <53567.1260220094@geneseo.net> Folks, I'm cleaning out the shed so I can store the MGB and have the following for sale. B An MGA rotisserie.B AB BMC 1500 engineB (turns freely) but is missingB the distributor andB valves,B I also have a '68 MGB 3.9B wire wheel rear end, a good boot lid and drivers side door.B Located in Quad Cities, Illinois.B Make offer on any or all.B Prefer to deliver or have you pick up.B B B Chris From g.schnittke at comcast.net Mon Dec 7 18:22:20 2009 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 19:22:20 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale Message-ID: <4B1DAA4C.2090007@comcast.net> Oh, I'm not saying you're out anything. Scott's idea was that a decent car of daily driver quality should cost around five grand. If you spend less than that you'll wind up spending a lot more than the difference between what you paid and 5 grand to own a car worth 5 grand. I bought my present redcar for $3600 about 10 years ago. Five years ago it went under the knife and I wound up spending about $6k on it for just the body work and interior. Structure and cosmetics. I would not be able to get $9600 for the car now even that it's also now a show winner (yes, &:^) tied for Best in Class this summer in Nashville). It's still a daily driver. I might be able to get 8 thou off it but I've done a lot more than just body and carpet. I've learned a lot and Jette & I have gotten a lot of enjoyment. I'm sure the number has probably increased today to maybe six grand but I think the formula still holds true. I think in the long run the MGB is still one of the best deals in used cars *if you enjoy driving for driving's sake* and don't mind doing the maintenance. The Miata may have taken this market, but I'm not THAT interested in them. Maybe for a racecar. We meet nice people driving MG's. You get what you pay for. Glenn > > $5K huh? I blew it then; had about $6K in my '69 after the paint & body > work. Never get that for it in my area. That was a lot of years ago > though and I figure I've driven a lot of $$ out since then. I rebuilt > it to drive it, not to look at it. > > CR -- Tragedy tomorrow, comedy tonight. - Psuedolus From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Dec 8 02:11:27 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 09:11:27 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear References: <4264CC750D0E4970B3559F29C580CE4C@EricJRussellPC> <281428.38153.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9C86624B8C4F4B8B9B6CCAAF1835735C@paul> The list doesn't forward them, but when I 'Reply All' to a list message any attachments I include go to the previous sender direct, plus any people *they* were replying to with Reply All. For example I can see from my To line that this is going directly to Dan and Eric as well as to the list. But maybe that is just Outlook Express. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan DiBiase" To: "Eric J Russell" ; > Eric, you probably realized by now that the list doesn't allow > attachments..... ;-) From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Dec 8 05:18:05 2009 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 04:18:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear In-Reply-To: <9C86624B8C4F4B8B9B6CCAAF1835735C@paul> References: <4264CC750D0E4970B3559F29C580CE4C@EricJRussellPC> <281428.38153.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <9C86624B8C4F4B8B9B6CCAAF1835735C@paul> Message-ID: <262620.71124.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> True, and when I hit 'reply to all', it went to Eric and the list, so I don't think he copied Barney. But I suspect it's a moot point by now..... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Paul Hunt To: Dan DiBiase ; Eric J Russell ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, December 8, 2009 4:11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA frame width at rear The list doesn't forward them, but when I 'Reply All' to a list message any attachments I include go to the previous sender direct, plus any people *they* were replying to with Reply All. For example I can see from my To line that this is going directly to Dan and Eric as well as to the list. But maybe that is just Outlook Express. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan DiBiase" To: "Eric J Russell" ; > Eric, you probably realized by now that the list doesn't allow attachments..... ;-) From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Dec 8 07:58:49 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 08:58:49 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Arizona cars for sale In-Reply-To: <4B1DAA4C.2090007@comcast.net> References: <4B1DAA4C.2090007@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B1E69A9.8080607@ktc.com> No worries; I was kidding. It was a driver when I paid the PO $1800 for it. It had some rust damage in the RR quarter panel but the rockers were sound & the rest of the paint (Iris Blue) was good. Ran like a top after a tune up - for about one summer season - then the rings let go. I did a complete engine rebuild (+.030 HC pistons), new clutch components, new U-joints. Drove it to Happy Camp, CA, like that one year. Towed it to MA & VT behind my MH the next year. Added a overdrive tranny the following winter. In the spring I stripped off the windshield & trim, had the paint & body work done, including new metal welded into the rusty panel - no Bondo. Put in a new windshield with new seals. Now, that's a trip! Ever replaced a windshield on a B roadster? Over the years I figure I have about $6,000 total in the car, not counting routine maintenance costs. It helps to be able to do all your own mechanical work. Engine parts were a lot cheaper then, too - if you had the right connections. I figure I could get $3.5K or so for it if I advertised it in San Antonio; haven't checked the market in a long time. All things considered I reckon the little car doesn't owe me a nickel. CR Glenn Schnittke wrote: > Oh, I'm not saying you're out anything. Scott's idea was that a decent > car of daily driver quality should cost around five grand. If you > spend less than that you'll wind up spending a lot more than the > difference between what you paid and 5 grand to own a car worth 5 grand. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Dec 9 05:28:14 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 06:28:14 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] hello to Nashville Message-ID: <4DC43E6E2B8C421FA37CF67EA9106B9E@ranteer.local> my son and my mgb will be in nashville between the 12th and 17th. anything going on? From wtsnyder at bellsouth.net Thu Dec 10 12:43:28 2009 From: wtsnyder at bellsouth.net (Bill Snyder) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 14:43:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Car Transport Message-ID: <005701ca79d1$0c23d0c0$246b7240$@net> Hello list. I have a gent interested in purchasing my MGTD in Western North Carolina and is looking for the best transport option to Kansas City. Can anybody recommend good reasonable haulers of both the closed and open variety, and possibly warn against problem carriers? Thanks in advance. Bill Snyder 1953 MG TD 1966 MGB roadster From don at napanet.net Thu Dec 10 19:21:11 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 18:21:11 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question Message-ID: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net> I have been searching for a nice original spec steel dash MGB for long time now. My current approach is to buy one a piece at a time. I have a really nice BMC original type AM radio, and now I'm looking for a nice original steering wheel. Just kidding. I did find a nice steering wheel for a reasonable price, and I know that many of the early Bs have had crummy non-original steering wheels fitted, so thought I would buy this one in anticipation of the MGB I've yet to find. My question- are the steering wheels for 1968-on cars different? I believe this wheel is for a 1968 car. _________________________________________________________ Don Scott Calistoga CA 2001 Miata SE BRG 1973 MGB GT 1962 MGA Mk II 1967 MGB (not quite yet) From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Thu Dec 10 20:05:36 2009 From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 22:05:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: Don, i recall that all Bs through 1969 had the "banjo style; steering wheel with two spokes at 6 o'clock and three spokes at four and eight o'clock. Eric in Florida -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of don Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 9:21 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question I have been searching for a nice original spec steel dash MGB for long time now. My current approach is to buy one a piece at a time. I have a really nice BMC original type AM radio, and now I'm looking for a nice original steering wheel. Just kidding. I did find a nice steering wheel for a reasonable price, and I know that many of the early Bs have had crummy non-original steering wheels fitted, so thought I would buy this one in anticipation of the MGB I've yet to find. My question- are the steering wheels for 1968-on cars different? I believe this wheel is for a 1968 car. _________________________________________________________ Don Scott Calistoga CA 2001 Miata SE BRG 1973 MGB GT 1962 MGA Mk II 1967 MGB (not quite yet) Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.709 / Virus Database: 270.14.102/2556 - Release Date: 12/10/09 02:36:00 From don at napanet.net Thu Dec 10 20:36:28 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:36:28 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net> Hi, I know MGBs had the banjo wheel after '67, but I was under the impression that the spline pattern was different even though the wheels looked similar. Don At 07:05 PM 12/10/2009, Eric Markley wrote: >Don, > >i recall that all Bs through 1969 had the "banjo style; steering wheel with >two spokes at 6 o'clock and three spokes at four and eight o'clock. > >Eric in Florida > >-----Original Message----- >From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On >Behalf Of don >Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 9:21 PM >To: mgs at autox.team.net >Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question > > >I have been searching for a nice original spec steel dash MGB for >long time now. My current approach is to buy one a piece at a >time. I have a really nice BMC original type AM radio, and now I'm >looking for a nice original steering wheel. >Just kidding. I did find a nice steering wheel for a reasonable >price, and I know that many of the early Bs have had crummy >non-original steering wheels fitted, so thought I would buy this one >in anticipation of the MGB I've yet to find. >My question- are the steering wheels for 1968-on cars different? I >believe this wheel is for a 1968 car. > >_________________________________________________________ > > >Don Scott >Calistoga CA >2001 Miata SE BRG >1973 MGB GT >1962 MGA Mk II >1967 MGB (not quite yet) > >_______________________________________________ From pboldtrix at juno.com Fri Dec 11 09:16:27 2009 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 16:16:27 GMT Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question Message-ID: <20091211.111627.7154.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com> Don: Your impressions are correct....after 1967 (beginning in 68) the spline pattern changed to a larger profile, for both MGBs and Midgets. I wanted to change my 67 BGT banjo wheel to a Midget wheel (to accomodate my wider girth since my 20s) and found a nice 69 Midget wheel....alas, it wouldn't fit and I had to hunt for a pre-68 wheel in order for the swap to work. This applies to both Bs and Midgets. I also had to modify my B horn push to fit the Midget wheel....a little complicated but doable. Phil Bacon, 67 MGBGT ---------- Original Message ---------- From: don To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:36:28 -0800 Hi, I know MGBs had the banjo wheel after '67, but I was under the impression that the spline pattern was different even though the wheels looked similar. Don At 07:05 PM 12/10/2009, Eric Markley wrote: >Don, > >i recall that all Bs through 1969 had the "banjo style; steering wheel with >two spokes at 6 o'clock and three spokes at four and eight o'clock. > >Eric in Florida > ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=Tv8B7iduHbr9WHJCZeF6mAAAJz2FcZu Yg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA= From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Dec 12 02:55:01 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:55:01 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net> <20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 Mk1, Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. There were three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't change to the flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. ----- Original Message ----- > I know MGBs had the banjo wheel after '67, but I was under the impression > that the spline pattern was different even though the wheels looked > similar. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Dec 12 05:22:32 2009 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 06:22:32 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: <5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net> <20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net> <5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> Message-ID: <95008BD7-48C2-4512-93F7-B34B8FFA6825@gmail.com> I have a 73 wheel on my 77. It's tight, but it works. On Dec 12, 2009, at 3:55 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 Mk1, Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. There were three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't change to the flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> I know MGBs had the banjo wheel after '67, but I was under the impression that the spline pattern was different even though the wheels looked similar. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Sat Dec 12 10:49:39 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 11:49:39 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: <5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net> <20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net> <5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> Message-ID: <4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> The '70 I foolishly sold had a flat-spoked wheel covered in leather, filled the hands beautifully. My '69 has the wire-spoked, plastic covered wheel, so thin it makes my fingers cramp when I drive the car very far. I've kept it for authenticity and out of laziness. CR Paul Hunt wrote: > According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 Mk1, > Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. There were > three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't change to the > flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sat Dec 12 17:21:40 2009 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 16:21:40 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: <4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> Message-ID: If you can find one of those sew-on leather covers (not the horrible spiral-wrap plastic ones that seem to be on every car at the junkyard), you can wrap the rim with some thin packing foam -- voila! Padded leather rim. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 12/12/09 9:49 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote: > The '70 I foolishly sold had a flat-spoked wheel covered in leather, > filled the hands beautifully. My '69 has the wire-spoked, plastic > covered wheel, so thin it makes my fingers cramp when I drive the car > very far. I've kept it for authenticity and out of laziness. > > CR > > > Paul Hunt wrote: >> According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 Mk1, >> Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. There were >> three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't change to the >> flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. From mjanacek at snet.net Sat Dec 12 19:05:55 2009 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 21:05:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B244C03.8000008@snet.net> Wheelskins http://www.autotoystore.com/wheelskins.html is one choice for covering the wheel. Material thickness is about 1/8 inch. Custom sizes are available. Takes about an hour to install right. I've had mine for 8 years now. NFI, just a satisfied customer. Mike Max Heim wrote: > If you can find one of those sew-on leather covers (not the horrible > spiral-wrap plastic ones that seem to be on every car at the junkyard), you > can wrap the rim with some thin packing foam -- voila! Padded leather rim. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires From ccrobins at ktc.com Sat Dec 12 19:39:40 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 20:39:40 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B2453EC.8050000@ktc.com> That might work, Max, thanks. The one on the '70 was sewn on the inside of the circumference of the rim, AIR, with small stitches. Couldn't feel the stitches under my fingers. I'll look around. CR Max Heim wrote: > If you can find one of those sew-on leather covers (not the horrible > spiral-wrap plastic ones that seem to be on every car at the junkyard), you > can wrap the rim with some thin packing foam -- voila! Padded leather rim. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > > on 12/12/09 9:49 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote: > > >> The '70 I foolishly sold had a flat-spoked wheel covered in leather, >> filled the hands beautifully. My '69 has the wire-spoked, plastic >> covered wheel, so thin it makes my fingers cramp when I drive the car >> very far. I've kept it for authenticity and out of laziness. >> >> CR >> >> >> Paul Hunt wrote: >> >>> According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 Mk1, >>> Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. There were >>> three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't change to the >>> flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. >>> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Dec 13 01:23:29 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 02:23:29 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: <4B244C03.8000008@snet.net> References: <4B244C03.8000008@snet.net> Message-ID: <4B24A481.2070408@ktc.com> Hi Mike, Looked at the site. Would have been happier if the generic installation instruction had been posted. Mayhap I'll call them. Thanks for the referral. CR Mike Janacek wrote: > Wheelskins http://www.autotoystore.com/wheelskins.html is one choice > for covering the wheel. Material thickness is about 1/8 inch. Custom > sizes are available. > Takes about an hour to install right. I've had mine for 8 years now. > NFI, just a satisfied customer. > Mike > > Max Heim wrote: >> If you can find one of those sew-on leather covers (not the horrible >> spiral-wrap plastic ones that seem to be on every car at the >> junkyard), you >> can wrap the rim with some thin packing foam -- voila! Padded leather >> rim. From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sun Dec 13 10:43:22 2009 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 09:43:22 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> <4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> Message-ID: On my 66 MGB with original style plastic wheel, I purchased a leather cover which is installed with a lacing system that works great. Makes the wheel feel good in your hands. This cover was also available in 1966 when I used one on my '65 MGB. I assume they are still being made somewhere. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson" To: Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 9:49 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question > The '70 I foolishly sold had a flat-spoked wheel covered in leather, > filled the hands beautifully. My '69 has the wire-spoked, plastic > covered wheel, so thin it makes my fingers cramp when I drive the car very > far. I've kept it for authenticity and out of laziness. > > CR > > > Paul Hunt wrote: >> According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 Mk1, Mk2 >> 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. There were three >> different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't change to the flat >> drilled 'spokes' until 1970. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 13 12:46:38 2009 From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 13:46:38 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Bolts for Clutch Slave References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul><4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> Message-ID: <3564FAF816744B7C8F064354F5533863@DELL> Hi Guys, I know I have asked this one before but what is the size and thread series that hold the clutch slave on? Thanks, Craig From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 13 12:48:21 2009 From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 13:48:21 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Air Filter for Mikuni References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul><4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> Message-ID: <9CB8D3F83BAF434FBF065405EF0C1DF4@DELL> Looking for an air filter for a Mikuni side draft. I would like to find an ITG but a K&N would work also. Can anyone assist? Thanks, Craig From twobees at sprynet.com Sun Dec 13 19:26:46 2009 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 21:26:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Zinc in Oil, Additives Message-ID: <001b01ca7c64$e2921a00$6401a8c0@normoffice> Just back from Performance Racing Industry show. Lots of new oils with high zinc content as well as oil additives. No time now to report on any of this in detail. Just want to let all know that there is high awareness of problems with flat-tappet engines. More another day. Norm Sippel From kerr.larry at gmail.com Sun Dec 13 19:32:12 2009 From: kerr.larry at gmail.com (Larry Kerr) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 21:32:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Bolts for Clutch Slave In-Reply-To: <3564FAF816744B7C8F064354F5533863@DELL> References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net> <20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net> <5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> <4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> <3564FAF816744B7C8F064354F5533863@DELL> Message-ID: <2c0c84c10912131832w507a3b19t7dd057647c7bc1d7@mail.gmail.com> I believe they are 3/8-16 x 2" Larry Kerr On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 2:46 PM, Craig Straub wrote: > Hi Guys, > > I know I have asked this one before but what is the size and thread series > that hold the clutch slave on? > > Thanks, > > Craig > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Larry Kerr 71 MGB roadster (under reconstructions) email: kerr dot larry at gmail dot com web:http://larrykerr.110mb.com/ From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Dec 13 20:57:21 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 21:57:21 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul> <4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> Message-ID: <4B25B7A1.80806@ktc.com> Quit assuming and tell me where to buy it, ya lazy toad! (BG) Sheesh, that I should have to Google it, myself! (G, D&R) CR Ron Fine wrote: > On my 66 MGB with original style plastic wheel, I purchased a leather > cover which is installed with a lacing system that works great. Makes > the wheel feel good in your hands. This cover was also available in > 1966 when I used one on my '65 MGB. I assume they are still being > made somewhere. > Ron > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson" > > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 9:49 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question > > >> The '70 I foolishly sold had a flat-spoked wheel covered in leather, >> filled the hands beautifully. My '69 has the wire-spoked, plastic >> covered wheel, so thin it makes my fingers cramp when I drive the car >> very far. I've kept it for authenticity and out of laziness. >> >> CR >> >> >> Paul Hunt wrote: >>> According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 >>> Mk1, Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. >>> There were three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't >>> change to the flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sun Dec 13 21:31:30 2009 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 20:31:30 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul><4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> <4B25B7A1.80806@ktc.com> Message-ID: <181C36E3D93041E9B2240344455590FF@XPS400> If I could remember I'd have told you. But I've seen some other postings and I am sure you can figure it out. Just be sure that you get the leather one which is the correct size for your wheel so it fits properly when you install it which involves spending a little time stitching it on with the provided thong on the inside of the wheel. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson" To: "Ron Fine" Cc: Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 7:57 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question > Quit assuming and tell me where to buy it, ya lazy toad! (BG) Sheesh, > that I should have to Google it, myself! > (G, D&R) > > CR > > Ron Fine wrote: >> On my 66 MGB with original style plastic wheel, I purchased a leather >> cover which is installed with a lacing system that works great. Makes >> the wheel feel good in your hands. This cover was also available in 1966 >> when I used one on my '65 MGB. I assume they are still being made >> somewhere. >> Ron >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson" >> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 9:49 AM >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question >> >> >>> The '70 I foolishly sold had a flat-spoked wheel covered in leather, >>> filled the hands beautifully. My '69 has the wire-spoked, plastic >>> covered wheel, so thin it makes my fingers cramp when I drive the car >>> very far. I've kept it for authenticity and out of laziness. >>> >>> CR >>> >>> >>> Paul Hunt wrote: >>>> According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 Mk1, >>>> Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. There were >>>> three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it didn't change to the >>>> flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Dec 13 22:16:06 2009 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 23:16:06 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question In-Reply-To: <181C36E3D93041E9B2240344455590FF@XPS400> References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul><4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> <4B25B7A1.80806@ktc.com> <181C36E3D93041E9B2240344455590FF@XPS400> Message-ID: <4B25CA16.3030601@ktc.com> Shux Ron I was kidding. (BG) stands for (Big Grin). (G, D&R) stands for (Grin, Ducking & Running) Sorry I rubbed you the wrong way. Gotta get some graphics loaded into my T-bird. CR Ron Fine wrote: > If I could remember I'd have told you. But I've seen some other > postings and I am sure you can figure it out. > Just be sure that you get the leather one which is the correct size > for your wheel so it fits properly when you install it which involves > spending a little time stitching it on with the provided thong on the > inside of the wheel. > > Ron > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson" > > To: "Ron Fine" > Cc: > Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 7:57 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question > > >> Quit assuming and tell me where to buy it, ya lazy toad! (BG) >> Sheesh, that I should have to Google it, myself! >> (G, D&R) >> >> CR >> >> Ron Fine wrote: >>> On my 66 MGB with original style plastic wheel, I purchased a >>> leather cover which is installed with a lacing system that works >>> great. Makes the wheel feel good in your hands. This cover was >>> also available in 1966 when I used one on my '65 MGB. I assume they >>> are still being made somewhere. >>> Ron >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley & Peggy Robinson" >>> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 9:49 AM >>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB steering wheel question >>> >>> >>>> The '70 I foolishly sold had a flat-spoked wheel covered in >>>> leather, filled the hands beautifully. My '69 has the >>>> wire-spoked, plastic covered wheel, so thin it makes my fingers >>>> cramp when I drive the car very far. I've kept it for authenticity >>>> and out of laziness. >>>> >>>> CR >>>> >>>> >>>> Paul Hunt wrote: >>>>> According to Clausager the four different types of column (62-67 >>>>> Mk1, Mk2 67-69, 69-76, 77 and later) all had different splines. >>>>> There were three different versions of the 'banjo' wheel, it >>>>> didn't change to the flat drilled 'spokes' until 1970. >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >>>> >>>> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Dec 14 02:17:20 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 09:17:20 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Bolts for Clutch Slave References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul><4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> <3564FAF816744B7C8F064354F5533863@DELL> Message-ID: <920E63DE174E4286B28F7D907F9A34A4@paul> UNC 3/8" x 2", from Moss. ----- Original Message ----- > I know I have asked this one before but what is the size and thread series > that hold the clutch slave on? From don at napanet.net Wed Dec 2 15:03:11 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 14:03:11 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] British car dealerships in the area Message-ID: <20091202220346.24DB024BA5F@mail.napanet.net> This is an abbreviated thread from the NoBBC (North Bay British Car Club) email list about British car dealers in the SF Bay Area. Robin's comments were especially interesting, and a fellow with the Mini club found Bob Danielson's website with a British Leyland document that lists all the US dealers in 1974. There were a lot of postings, all interesting, but I was reluctant to repost them without getting permission. Don Scott Calistoga CA USA The Dealer string seems to have flamed out; was fun while it lasted, but there were only that many dealers to talk about. Just a couple of final comments from me of interest to Morgan folk. I mentioned Frank Henry on Telegraph in Berkeley. I bought two 1958 Mogs from him, the first one I had a terrible wreck with, but survived with cuts and bruises. The second he sold me for a very decent price, $2,500 as I remember. I raced that one. Frank was a fine gentleman. He always wore a three piece tweed suit, gold chain and watch in the vest pocket. He kept his cars on an open lot but had a small sales office where he had poetry books to read. Where else but Berkel;ey? Lou Spencer had the Worldwide business on Sepulvada. He was the one to beat in his line of "Baby Dolls", that's what he named his cars. He had a French mechanic, Claude, who could change out a clutch in a half hour. He had cut away the firewall and pulled the tran out through the cabin. Ahh, those were the days! Cheers, Rj What a little search on the internet does... this should interest a lot of you. Google "danielson family triumph website", click on first entry, then under "Other Cool Stuff," click on "74 Dealer Sales & Svc. for a list of all the BL dealers. Bob has put together a great website! >From: Robin Jackson > >Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 17:10:23 >To: North Bay British Car Club >Subject: Re: [Nobbc] British car dealerships in the area > > >E.F. Sweeney British Cars was in San Anselmo, on the hub; they moved to San >Rafael on the road near Bermuda Palms. Both businesses are long gone. >There was Shamrock Motors in Mill Valley that dealt Citroen, Peugeot and >Morgans. I was quite friendly with the Hannon brothers who ran it. >Also in San Rafael was Bud Oden's Marin Motorsports. He was a dealer for >Triumph and English Ford. Frank Henry had a Morgan dealership in Berkeley on >Telegraph. He kept the Mogs on an open lot as he had no showroom. > >Bill Breeze sold Lotus 11's from his shop in Sausalito, near where the >seaplanes are now. Bob Winkelmann had four Winkelmann Formula Ford >dealerships across the country, the home one being in Sausaleto. He imported >@250 of these open wheelers. > >Larry Albedi (some may know his voice as he still announces at Sears Point - >it will always be Sears, to me) had various dealerships around the bay area, >notably Vallejo British Cars. Bob Cole was down on the Peninsula with has >dealership and there was also a Morgan dealer there, Frank Crane, who I >raced with. We had quite a Morgan contingent in those days, late 50's early >60's, who got welcome support from dealers. Rusty Hyde sold Triumphs in San >Fran, as I recall. Some of this is a little foggy as you have jolted >memories of quite a long time ago. For that I thank you, Don. By the way, I >bought my MGA from EF Sweeney in 1957 when I was released from active duty >with USMC. I traded it soon therafter and bought my first Plus 4 Moggie from >Frank Henry. > >Phil Washburn, as I recall, had a dealership on Santa Rosa Ave. where the >motor home lot is. I remember him racing at Cotati Raceways when it was >open. The power behind Brit Mtrs. in San Fran was Schell Quavale (I know my >spelling is off, but close phonetically!) While I still had my shop in Santa >Rosa he visited. Well in his 80's he still went to work. I believe Carlson >was exclusevely VW Porsche. Your A, Ron may have been a trade in. > > > > > don wrote: > > > > Back in the late '50s through early '70s, British car dealerships could be > >> found in most US cities of any size, especially in > California. Even before > >> I got my first British car in 1965, I loved visiting the > showrooms to admire > >> the MGs, Triumphs and other British cars. Of course, I would > always pilfer > >> as many sales brochures as I could hoping to not upset the salespeople too > >> much. > >> > >> I remember the BMC/Jaguar dealer in Napa on Soscol Avenue, which was to > >> become Napa Valley Datsun when they dropped the British car line around > >> 1967. There was a BMC dealer that tried again in Napa shortly after but > >> didn't last long. I remember taking my MGA there for repairs in > 1968, but I > >> don't remember the name of the place. I do remember that it was very > >> expensive to pay someone to repair my car, and after that, did most of my > >> repairs myself. The name of it might have been Washborn Imports. > >> > >> In Santa Rosa, there was Ralph Vesper Motors on Santa Rosa Avenue which > >> sold Triumphs and British Fords. I remember that dealership, > because, as I > >> bought parts for my old Anglia and Zodiac (c. 1966, '67), I was distracted > >> by the siren's call of the sleek TR4s and Spitfires on display in the > >> showroom. I still have a few pieces of the Triumph literature I took on > >> visits to Vesper. Car dealers usually left their identification > by irubber > >> stamping their names and addresses onto the front or back of the sales > >> literature. Vesper's name and address sill adorn my old Triumph > brochures. > >> > >> The most interesting dealership to visit was always British Motors on Van > >> Ness Avenue in San Francisco. They had Jaguar, Rolls Royce and the whole > >> BMC line, and the cars they had on display were always of a high calibre. > >> This was such a classy place that I always felt underdressed because I > >> wasn't wearing a suit and tie. As an extreme British car nut, I was > >> thrilled just to purchase parts there. I do have several license plate > >> frames from there, which I think are a cool period accessory. > >> > >> Other dealerships that come to mind are Union Jack (BMC) in Hayward and > >> British Motors in San Jose. > >> > >> Anyone else have any recollections of the British car dealer world in the > >> area? > >> > >> Don Scott > >> 1962 MGA Mk II > >> 1991 Miata BRG > >> 1973 MGB GT > >> 1962 TR4 (seeking) From riverside at southslope.net Mon Dec 14 21:50:12 2009 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 22:50:12 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Phoenix/Tempe area maintainence and repair References: <20091211022339.3347B24DC3D@mail.napanet.net><20091211033857.48A2F24BA5B@mail.napanet.net><5A4CF72C281D4A47BD1E3A36EF51039C@paul><4B23D7B3.7050803@ktc.com> <4B25B7A1.80806@ktc.com> Message-ID: <00bb01ca7d42$168a5b00$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Does anyone have recommendations of a shop or person in this area able to handle proper care and feeding of MGBs ? I have a freind who will be taking his CBB down there to visit family and avoid Iowa winter. He is concerned if he should have a problem. Ron From mike at sportscarslimited.net Tue Dec 15 08:58:02 2009 From: mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 07:58:02 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Phoenix/Tempe area maintainence and repair In-Reply-To: <00bb01ca7d42$168a5b00$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <9D63073BE6254919A0D8C8E73F95563B@scloffice> Check the website of the British Motor Trada Association. Their membership is composed of shops and trade suppliers to the British Car hobby all around the country. http://www.britcar.org/ We are members & do have an interest in supporting the organization, incidently. Michael Singleton Sportscars Ltd 10170 Croydon Way Suite M Sacramento, CA 95826 (916)366-0330 mike at sportscarslimited.net -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of riverside Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 8:50 PM To: MG autox Subject: Re: [Mgs] Phoenix/Tempe area maintainence and repair Does anyone have recommendations of a shop or person in this area able to handle proper care and feeding of MGBs ? I have a freind who will be taking his CBB down there to visit family and avoid Iowa winter. He is concerned if he should have a problem. Ron Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From redscirocco at hotmail.com Tue Dec 15 09:46:25 2009 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 11:46:25 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Vermont MG-themed holiday packages Message-ID: A local Brit-owned inn offers MG and LBC-themed weekend getaways for clubs and groups. The itinerary includes some great (I think) British food, a self-guided tour of this beautiful part of the state, and other activities and daytrips. Right now they're taking reservations for summer 2010, if anyone is looking for a group cruise destination in New England. Mount Snow area. NFI, but the inn-owners, Alison and Simon Ferris are good friends. http://www.kitzhof.com/index.html http://www.kitzhof.com/pages/BritishCarClubs.html -Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT '54 MG TF '73 Midget '51 Willys M38 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ From grabow.bernie at gmail.com Tue Dec 15 10:27:48 2009 From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com (Bernie Grabow) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:27:48 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter Message-ID: Hey guys - I have a 73 mgbgt with the later type inverted renewable oil filter. I have two questions. After removing the oil filter I see a small metal tube about 4 inches long that is press fitted into the threaded hole that the oil filter element screws down onto with the metal tube fitting up into the oil filter. What is the purpose of this tube (it easily pulls out of the hole) Is this standard or did the PO stick that tube in there for some reason? My second question is what is the best oil filter to use and the part number? Bernie From barneymg at mgaguru.com Tue Dec 15 11:16:53 2009 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:16:53 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <280289.70411.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> That tube is standard issue on the inverted spin-on filter mount. It should be press fit (not lift out). See photos and functional description here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100b1.htm Suitable oil filters for this adapter can be found on the same web page. I happen to like NAPA Gold filters which are made by WIX and essentially same as WIX filters except for paint and brand name. There have been very bad reviews of Fram oil filters, but it has been a while since those studies were published, and I do not know if anthing has changed more recently. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 12:27 PM 12/15/2009 -0500, Bernie Grabow wrote: >.... >I have a 73 mgbgt with the later type inverted renewable oil >filter. I have two questions. After removing the oil filter I see >a small metal tube about 4 inches long that is press fitted into the >threaded hole that the oil filter element screws down onto with the >metal tube fitting up into the oil filter. What is the purpose of >this tube (it easily pulls out of the hole) Is this standard or did >the PO stick that tube in there for some reason? My second question >is what is the best oil filter to use and the part number? From mgbob at juno.com Tue Dec 15 12:00:21 2009 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:00:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter Message-ID: <20091215.140021.2276.8.MGBOB@juno.com> I cannot tell you the purpose of the metal tube, but it is intended to be there. Check Section A.1 in the workshop manual for an illustration of the "later type filter (disposable cartridge). If it's finger tight, you might want to figure a way to keep it securely in place. Any auto parts store will have a filter to fit the '73 engine, as the same filter was used on several million Ford V8s. Wix # is 51068 and NAPA uses same # without the 5. There has been discussion of the best filter brand. MOPAR enthusiasts publish somewhere a comparison of filters. Wix/NAPA rated well on their tests and are easily available, so those are what I use, but others rated similarly. They did not care for the Fram PH8, however. Apparently Fram, once considered a premium filter, has been reduced in quality to lower cost and selling price. Testing these oneself isn't simple or easy, but as their conclusions appeared valid, I see no point to saving a dollar on a filter while jeopardising $4000 of engine. Bob On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:27:48 -0500 Bernie Grabow writes: > Hey guys - > I have a 73 mgbgt with the later type inverted renewable oil > filter. > I have two questions. After removing the oil filter I see a small > metal tube about 4 inches long that is press fitted into the > threaded hole that the oil filter element screws down onto with the metal > tube fitting up into the oil filter. What is the purpose of this tube > (it easily pulls out of the hole) Is this standard or did the PO stick > that tube in there for some reason? My second question is what is > the best oil filter to use and the part number? > Bernie > > _______________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________ Banking Click here to find the perfect banking opportunity! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=Hvd_SJPkqXIHrmX4lyCwvQAAJ1CFcZuYg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAXeAAAAAA= From otis15 at aol.com Tue Dec 15 12:49:53 2009 From: otis15 at aol.com (otis15 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:49:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Phoenix/Tempe area maintainence and repair In-Reply-To: <9D63073BE6254919A0D8C8E73F95563B@scloffice> Message-ID: <8CC4BD6E758231D-2828-128E9@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Heres the url to join the M>G>B. club. I learn a lot of it. -----Original Message----- From: Michael Singleton To: 'riverside' ; 'MG autox' Sent: Tue, Dec 15, 2009 7:58 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Phoenix/Tempe area maintainence and repair Check the website of the British Motor Trada Association. Their membership s composed of shops and trade suppliers to the British Car hobby all around he country. http://www.britcar.org/ We are members & do have an interest in supporting the organization, ncidently. ichael Singleton portscars Ltd 0170 Croydon Way uite M acramento, CA 95826 916)366-0330 ike at sportscarslimited.net -----Original Message----- rom: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On ehalf Of riverside ent: Monday, December 14, 2009 8:50 PM o: MG autox ubject: Re: [Mgs] Phoenix/Tempe area maintainence and repair Does anyone have recommendations of a shop or person in this area able to andle proper care and feeding of MGBs ? I have a freind who will be taking is CBB down there to visit family and avoid Iowa winter. He is concerned if e should have a problem. on gs at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive Mgs at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 15 13:08:08 2009 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:08:08 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: The tube is standard, I believe. At least, I have one in the boneyard-sourced unit on my B. The filter size is Fram PH8A. PH43 is a "shortie" filter that also fits, though with smaller capacity (maybe this size is the "standard", but I always went with "bigger is better"). Many people are not fans of Fram filters, but those are the numbers that stick in my head -- the conversion book at the dealer will cross reference to Wix or whatever. The funny thing is that classic Ferrari V12s invariably have a pair of inverted Frams protruding from the valley. So whatever negatives you might ascribe to Fram or inverted filters in general, apparently it doesn't bother the Ferrari folks. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 12/15/09 9:27 AM, Bernie Grabow at grabow.bernie at gmail.com wrote: > Hey guys - > I have a 73 mgbgt with the later type inverted renewable oil filter. > I have two questions. After removing the oil filter I see a small > metal tube about 4 inches long that is press fitted into the threaded > hole that the oil filter element screws down onto with the metal tube > fitting up into the oil filter. What is the purpose of this tube (it > easily pulls out of the hole) Is this standard or did the PO stick > that tube in there for some reason? My second question is what is the > best oil filter to use and the part number? > Bernie From g.schnittke at comcast.net Tue Dec 15 18:10:00 2009 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 19:10:00 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter Message-ID: <4B283368.5090600@comcast.net> I've actually been using a Fram PH43 for the last few years without problems, however this last one I bought is crap. The flowback, as usual. I can't remember why I started on the Fram kick. May have been the cute cashier at Pep Boys. Goin' back to NAPA. Pep Boy's don't carry WIX. > Suitable oil filters for this adapter can be found on the same web > page. I happen to like NAPA Gold filters which are made by WIX and > essentially same as WIX filters except for paint and brand > name. There have been very bad reviews of Fram oil filters, but it > has been a while since those studies were published, and I do not > know if anthing has changed more recently. > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http://MGAguru.com > > > At 12:27 PM 12/15/2009 -0500, Bernie Grabow wrote: >> >.... >> >I have a 73 mgbgt with the later type inverted renewable oil >> >filter. I have two questions. After removing the oil filter I see >> >a small metal tube about 4 inches long that is press fitted into the >> >threaded hole that the oil filter element screws down onto with the >> >metal tube fitting up into the oil filter. What is the purpose of >> >this tube (it easily pulls out of the hole) Is this standard or did >> >the PO stick that tube in there for some reason? My second question >> >is what is the best oil filter to use and the part number? -- Tragedy tomorrow, comedy tonight. - Psuedolus From don at napanet.net Tue Dec 15 19:43:40 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 18:43:40 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] A very ugly British car Message-ID: <20091216024719.8868524BA5E@mail.napanet.net> I like the comment on the BaT website: "Nice legs, shame about the face." A car this homely makes me very appreciative of the classic lines of an MG or TR. Don _____________________________________________________ Rare British Fiberglass: 1951 Martin Ford Special $30k barely buys you a pair of shoes in Monaco, but we think that this interesting 1951 Martin Ford roadster would draw more attention in town than the housekeeper's latest Aston. This body was installed in place of the stodgy Ford bodies of the time and is propelled by an 885cc 4-cylinder. Find it here on eBay in Monaco with a ~$31k Buy-It-Now. Special thanks to BaT reader Marc M. for this submission! http://bringatrailer.com/2009/12/15/rare-british-fiberglass-1951-martin-ford-special/comment-page-1/#comment-136353 Ford-Martin Sports Special 1946 -1954 Fordson Sidevalve http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280437488768 >_________________________________________________________ > > >Don Scott >Calistoga CA >2001 Miata SE BRG >1973 MGB GT >1962 MGA Mk II >1967 MGB (not quite yet) > >_______________________________________________ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 16 02:00:15 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 09:00:15 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter References: Message-ID: <38E025DD23824DECA4A15091E0FA88EF@paul> It's an anti drain-back tube. Together with the anti drain-back valves that should be in spin-on filters it prevents oil draining out of the filter when switched off, which would otherwise happen with an inverted filter, leading to longer times to get pressure when restarting. However the valves in filters can be very variable in construction and quality, and poor ones will allow the oil to drain out more as the filter gets older, and some can be pretty-well ineffective from day one, see http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html. Volvo 3517857-3/Mann W917 seem to retain the oil for their lifetime (3k miles in my cars), better than the Unipart/Champion/Halfords typically available in the UK which tend to tail off albeit it about 50% dearer. Some Fram filters are reputed to be good but one I tried from a well known supplier in the UK were noticeably worse. K&N Gold seemed as good as the Volvo/Mann but are harder to get hold off and twice the price. One thing to be aware of is to make sure your filter is at least an inch longer than the tube, some filters that fit the thread are so short they tighten down onto the end of the tube which prevents oil pressure developing. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... I see a small > metal tube about 4 inches long that is press fitted into the threaded > hole that the oil filter element screws down onto with the metal tube > fitting up into the oil filter. What is the purpose of this tube... From mgbob at juno.com Wed Dec 16 12:50:19 2009 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:50:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter Message-ID: <20091216.145019.3324.11.MGBOB@juno.com> That's an insidious problem with oil filters. Unless it leaks or bursts one does not know of a problem and, with respect to filtration, one does not know how effectively it is doing its job until an engine tear-down. Once upon a time, Fram reps would cut apart filters at tech sessions to demonstrate how theirs were superior to others. Circa 1974, I worked for a warehouse distributor of auto parts. The Fram reps and Penzoil reps presented these sessions frequently.Pennzoil would use electric drills to spin steel rods into depressions on a steel plate, and squirt in their oil and others. They made a big point that parafinnic (sp?) oils were far better lubricants than asphaltic. We wondered, since Nascar cars were using Texaco asphaltic base oils, but it was a good demo with hot steel, smoke and oil smells. The Gates belt reps would shred belts for show&tell also. The Gates reps lost some credibility when they introduced an all-plastic wiper blade that worked fine until temps fell to 20 or so, whereupon it was so stiff that it would not wipe a curved windshield. Bob On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 19:10:00 -0600 Glenn Schnittke writes: > I've actually been using a Fram PH43 for the last few years without > problems, however this last one I bought is crap. The flowback, as > usual. I can't remember why I started on the Fram kick. May have > been > the cute cashier at Pep Boys. > > Goin' back to NAPA. Pep Boy's don't carry WIX. ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=dMUWfCj5uo9axoJL2FtqUgAAJ1CFcZuYg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From barrie at look.ca Wed Dec 16 11:45:34 2009 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:45:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter In-Reply-To: <38E025DD23824DECA4A15091E0FA88EF@paul> References: <38E025DD23824DECA4A15091E0FA88EF@paul> Message-ID: I remember this site from some time back. I thought the chap had been warned off by one of the big daddies. So is the old one of way back - or is it being updated? I don't see any date on it - mind you I don't see very well anyway !!! At 04:00 AM 12/16/2009, Paul Hunt wrote: >It's an anti drain-back tube. Together with the anti drain-back >valves that should be in spin-on filters it prevents oil draining >out of the filter when switched off, which would otherwise happen >with an inverted filter, leading to longer times to get pressure >when restarting. However the valves in filters can be very variable >in construction and quality, and poor ones will allow the oil to >drain out more as the filter gets older, and some can be pretty-well >ineffective from day one, see >http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html. >Volvo 3517857-3/Mann W917 seem to retain the oil for their lifetime >(3k miles in my cars), better than the Unipart/Champion/Halfords >typically available in the UK which tend to tail off albeit it about >50% dearer. Some Fram filters are reputed to be good but one I >tried from a well known supplier in the UK were noticeably >worse. K&N Gold seemed as good as the Volvo/Mann but are harder to >get hold off and twice the price. One thing to be aware of is to >make sure your filter is at least an inch longer than the tube, some >filters that fit the thread are so short they tighten down onto the >end of the tube which prevents oil pressure developing. > >PaulH. > >----- Original Message ----- >>... I see a small >>metal tube about 4 inches long that is press fitted into the threaded >>hole that the oil filter element screws down onto with the metal tube >>fitting up into the oil filter. What is the purpose of this tube... > >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 8.5.427 / Virus Database: 270.14.110/2568 - Release Date: >12/16/09 08:02:00 Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Dec 17 02:16:01 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 09:16:01 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] oil filter References: <38E025DD23824DECA4A15091E0FA88EF@paul> Message-ID: The date at the bottom is 2000 (so not updated in a while), and the link to the FAQ says it was taken down in 99 following a threatening letter from a *retailer*, not a manufacturer which surprised him. He removed opinions and put the page back just with hard facts and photos, but the opinions including which filters are rubbish are on another page linked from the main page. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I remember this site from some time back. I thought the chap had been >warned off by one of the big daddies. So is the old one of way back - or >is it being updated? I don't see any date on it - mind you I don't see >very well anyway !!! From thgun at comporium.net Thu Dec 17 04:59:41 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 06:59:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Mgs] MGA FUEL PUMP Message-ID: <20091217065941.DXX03435@ms1.comporium.net> What is the best way to check an original MGA fuel pump. This car has been sitting for a year. I get gas to the carbs but when I took the car for a test it seemed like the engine was starved for fuel. I have just replaced the head and the engine is now running. Seems to idle a little rough but will run on its own. Do I need to rebuild my carbs? Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Dec 17 05:50:53 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 12:50:53 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGA FUEL PUMP References: <20091217065941.DXX03435@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <202C6FC7C3F54521967379A978DF3D8E@paul> Assuming it's pretty much like the original MGB pump: If you have an SU pump then listening for clicking when turning on the ignition but before starting the engine is a perfectly valid test. Depending on how hot the engine was when last switched off it may click just a couple of times (cold) or for several seconds (hot). But if you turn the engine on within a few minutes of turning it off it may not click at all especially when cold. Note that some after-market types chatter all the time, regardless of engine demand. If it doesn't click at all after having left the ignition off for several hours or overnight then the pump or its electrical supply is probably faulty. If it clicks, then it should stop, and only make a single click once every 30 secs or longer. If it clicks more frequently than that then either the float valves are leaking and it will eventually overflow, which if you have a charcoal canister make take some time to appear on the ground, or the non-return valve in the pump inlet is leaking. If it continues to click rapidly then either you are out of fuel i.e the fuel level is below the pickup strainer, the pickup pipe is perforated above the fuel line, or a float valve or the non-return valve mentioned above are stuck open. If rapid clicking stops and starts while the ignition is on but the engine isn't running that implies either very marginal fuel level or the non-return valve intermittently sticking. Note that some after-market types output excess pressure which will overwhelm the float valves and cause flooding unless a fuel regulator limited to 2psi is also installed. If it clicks and stops as it should, then check delivery. Remove a fuel feed pipe from a carb (be aware it will spurt if the ignition has been on recently with SU and Moprod types), direct it into a container, and turn on the ignition. It should deliver at least one Imperial pint per minute, in practice closer to two, in a steady stream of pulses with minimal bubbles. Erratic pumping indicates pump or fuel level problems, lost of bubbles a leak on the tank side of the pump plumbing. Note that the delivery requirements apply to after-market types as well. If all that is right then the only other thing running the engine is going to tell you is if there is a very intermittent problem with the pump or its electrical supply that only being operated for a long time may reveal. ----- Original Message ----- > What is the best way to check an original MGA fuel pump. From mgbob at juno.com Thu Dec 17 06:47:34 2009 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:47:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA FUEL PUMP Message-ID: <20091217.085651.2036.2.MGBOB@juno.com> In the MGA workshop manual is a procedure for checking the pump, section D.6 of the text. It is a rig that holds the pump so that it can pump into a container, and it should deliver a pint per minute of the paraffin suggested for the test instead of fuel. You can do a similar test on the car. Disconnect the output hose from a carb and pump into a container, having first disconnected power to the ignition and taken precautions against spillage. WS manual says to run the pump for ten minutes before the measurement, though the context was for a newly-rebuilt pump. If you test this way, do run it for at least five minutes, to avoid an experience similar to mine in which the pump pumped just fine---for about a minute--then would stop. There is a filter screen at the bottom of the pump. WS manual says to clean at 6000 miles. Were the carbs OK before you removed the head? If they were drained of fuel before storage, their condition will not have changed. Bob On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 06:59:41 -0500 (EST) writes: > What is the best way to check an original MGA fuel pump. This car has > been sitting for a year. I get gas to the carbs but when I took the > car for a test it seemed like the engine was starved for fuel. I > have just replaced the head and the engine is now running. Seems to > idle a little rough but will run on its own. Do I need to rebuild my > carbs? > Tom Gunderson > 1957 MGA 1500 rst > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > ____________________________________________________________ Hotel Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=sh2t8VXX5N5yTHF_2GjmugAAJ1CFcZuYg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA= From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Dec 17 07:15:16 2009 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:15:16 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGA FUEL PUMP In-Reply-To: <20091217.085651.2036.2.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20091217.085651.2036.2.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <286436E1-C8CF-4D4E-8EF0-BF6088ABE5C8@gmail.com> This came up over the summer with a story that a guy melted a bunch of wax, and tried to pump it through. This is another UK vs US word issue. We're talking kerosine here. On Dec 17, 2009, at 7:47 AM, Bob Howard wrote: > In the MGA workshop manual is a procedure for checking the pump, > section D.6 of the text. It is a rig that holds the pump so that it can > pump into a container, and it should deliver a pint per minute of the > paraffin suggested for the test instead of fuel. From peter at nosimport.com Thu Dec 17 08:48:00 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 09:48:00 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGA FUEL PUMP In-Reply-To: <20091217065941.DXX03435@ms1.comporium.net> References: <20091217065941.DXX03435@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <200912170748419.SM01616@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Also, those symptoms suggest stale gas. Anything over a month or so doesn't burn well. Peter C -------------------------------- At 05:59 AM 12/17/2009, you wrote: >What is the best way to check an original MGA fuel pump. This car >has been sitting for a year. I get gas to the carbs but when I took >the car for a test it seemed like the engine was starved for fuel. I >have just replaced the head and the engine is now running. Seems to >idle a little rough but will run on its own. Do I need to rebuild my carbs? >Tom Gunderson >1957 MGA 1500 rst From roger at rogerlos.com Mon Dec 21 02:13:00 2009 From: roger at rogerlos.com (Roger Los) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 01:13:00 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft In-Reply-To: <42580A60105F410A8CAD4298AAC147E9@roomofdoom> References: <565682045.6750081259141085419.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><8E15DED4-BDCB-442D-A2D3-9F836763A8D5@gmail.com> <42580A60105F410A8CAD4298AAC147E9@roomofdoom> Message-ID: <5300D4009DC94158AF6B232BEF2FFBFF@roomofdoom> Can I really not use the driveshaft from my non O/D 5-main, 3-syncro gearbox when I do the O/D conversion? I think the book lists some fraction of an inch difference in length, which I would have thought would easily have been taken up by the sliding splines. Please edumacate me! Thanks, Roger Los '63 MGB, '64 MGB, '67 MGB GT http://www.rustyheaps.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Dec 21 03:51:42 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 10:51:42 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft References: <565682045.6750081259141085419.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><8E15DED4-BDCB-442D-A2D3-9F836763A8D5@gmail.com><42580A60105F410A8CAD4298AAC147E9@roomofdoom> <5300D4009DC94158AF6B232BEF2FFBFF@roomofdoom> Message-ID: The sliding joint is there to take account of positioning tolerances in the mounting of engine and rear axle, as well as their relative movement when driving. If you have a banjo axle then the difference is 1.125", whereas if you have Salisbury it is 'only' 0.875. If you measure the fitted length of your propshaft (axle hanging on its straps as this extends the shaft), and compare that to the fully compressed length and the maximum expanded length without the splines starting to disengage, you will have a better idea of how feasible reuse will be. The biggest problem would be if it bottomed, but that isn't going to occur with a non-OD shaft in an OD application as it is the OD application that needs the longer shaft. If it pulls out too far then the splines will start to disengage, which will increase the stresses on what remains in engagement. FWIW on a V8 shaft from being fully compressed there is 2" of movement available before the splines even start to disengage, and 2 1/4" of male spline on the shaft itself. It has a fully compressed length of 29.75", and a fitted length of 31.25". The result is there is just over an inch of movement either way from a notional perfect central point without the risk of either bottoming or the splines starting to disengage. If your fitted length is more than an inch longer than the theoretical 30" for a non-OD banjo or 31.125" for a non-OD Salisbury then it's maybe not such a good idea to use it. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Can I really not use the driveshaft from my non O/D 5-main, 3-syncro > gearbox > when I do the O/D conversion? From wspohn4 at aol.com Mon Dec 21 07:21:08 2009 From: wspohn4 at aol.com (wspohn4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:21:08 EST Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft Message-ID: <673e.745c944f.3860de54@aol.com> Of course you can, but because the OD trans is shorter, you need to have a 1 1/8" spacer block machined up to go between the diff and rear driveshaft flange. Use grade 8 bolts, please. Bill In a message dated 21/12/2009 1:33:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, roger at rogerlos.com writes: Can I really not use the driveshaft from my non O/D 5-main, 3-syncro gearbox when I do the O/D conversion? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Dec 21 08:32:46 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 15:32:46 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft References: <673e.745c944f.3860de54@aol.com> Message-ID: <115472E7249B484E98D2444A482DFF8D@paul> Balanced ... ----- Original Message ----- > Of course you can, but because the OD trans is shorter, you need to have a > 1 1/8" spacer block machined up to go between the diff and rear driveshaft > flange. From wspohn4 at aol.com Mon Dec 21 09:32:45 2009 From: wspohn4 at aol.com (wspohn4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 11:32:45 EST Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft Message-ID: Be hard NOT to balance it as you are turning it up on a lathe, Paul, but its a fair point. Bill In a message dated 12/21/2009 8:22:13 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: Balanced ... ----- Original Message ----- > Of course you can, but because the OD trans is shorter, you need to have a > 1 1/8" spacer block machined up to go between the diff and rear driveshaft > flange. From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Dec 21 09:59:20 2009 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:59:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture Message-ID: <439264.19238.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Courtesy of the Rhein-Zeitung's rzonline web site, second picture in the slide show: http://www.rheinzeitung.de/on/09/12/21/news/r/bilder/bilder.html David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com From thgun at comporium.net Mon Dec 21 15:35:53 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 17:35:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] setting timing MGA 1500 Message-ID: How much will the distributor turn when the locking clamps are loosened? I think that my setting is off after replacing the head. I can't seem to get much power when I drive the car but it seems to idle ok. Tom Gunderson From thgun at comporium.net Mon Dec 21 15:38:21 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 17:38:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] TURN SIGNAL LEVER Message-ID: <7523AF01D8054D0B850B64432EE78602@TOMPC> I am looking for an original MGA style, black, turn signal lever. No reproductions. Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst From roger at rogerlos.com Mon Dec 21 16:31:21 2009 From: roger at rogerlos.com (Roger Los) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 15:31:21 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft In-Reply-To: References: <565682045.6750081259141085419.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><8E15DED4-BDCB-442D-A2D3-9F836763A8D5@gmail.com><42580A60105F410A8CAD4298AAC147E9@roomofdoom> <5300D4009DC94158AF6B232BEF2FFBFF@roomofdoom> Message-ID: <415838CC74844125A317F2D61C2DE958@roomofdoom> | The sliding joint is there to take account of positioning | tolerances in the mounting of engine and rear axle, as well | as their relative movement when driving. If you have a banjo | axle then the difference is 1.125", whereas if you have | Salisbury it is 'only' 0.875. OK, well, fair enough, thanks for the replies, everyone. I have the two ends of an O/D shaft which someone removed from the car with a sawzall (!), and several non-OD shafts for early cars in my parts bin. So I'll just need to weigh the costs of having a spacer milled vs. "repairing" the in-two-pieces shaft vs. trying to find an O/D shaft. I imagine it's probably a wash, and I'll just have a new shaft built from the remains of the one I have. Roger Los '63 MGB, '64 MGB, '67 MGB GT http://www.rustyheaps.com From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Mon Dec 21 16:52:12 2009 From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:52:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] setting timing MGA 1500 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Tom, I would think the distributor would rotate at least thirty degrees, if not forty-five. This should be more than ample to adjust the timing. If it will not rotate properly, perhaps the clamp is bent. Over-tightening of the clamp bolt can warp and damage the distributor body. Eric -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tom Gunderson Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 5:36 PM To: Mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] setting timing MGA 1500 How much will the distributor turn when the locking clamps are loosened? I think that my setting is off after replacing the head. I can't seem to get much power when I drive the car but it seems to idle ok. Tom Gunderson Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.717 / Virus Database: 270.14.116/2578 - Release Date: 12/21/09 14:13:00 From shop at justbrits.com Mon Dec 21 20:30:28 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:30:28 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] ... Last message from Bob Duncan of Yahoo Bugeye List, etal. Message-ID: <4B303D54.7040908@justbrits.com> I have been in contact with Bob's wife Carol a couple times. Carol has approved and requested that I "offer-up" a LBC obit which may be seen & read on ILLINI Chapter's site for your review & possible donation(s). This note will be also be going out to a few other LBC site for their prayers & good wishes. http://www.illiniahca.org/BobDuncanObit.html I have also chatted with Kate, his daughter and she would like to convey a HUGE Thank You to the LBC World. Bob LOVED his Sprite and will be missed. Regards................ Ed From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Dec 22 01:48:51 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 08:48:51 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] setting timing MGA 1500 References: Message-ID: <3A7C8879D6C14712B7BA94321EAD0452@paul> Depends what he is slackening. He said 'clamps' i.e. plural, and if this means the two bolts that secure the clamping plate to the block then this only gives a few degrees, which is enough to cater for normal servicing timing changes. If it's the single clamp bolt on the clamping plate itself then with that slack the distributor should rotate 360 degrees (unless the vacuum capsule hits anything along the way). If you can get to the two bolts into the block that is a preferable way of altering the timing than keep slackening and tightening the clamp bolt, which as you say eventually damages the body of the distributor through overtightening (which is easy to do) and then the distributor starts jumping out. Simple changing of a head shouldn't have changed the timing, but of course it would affect the valve clearances. There could be a vacuum leak on the intake side, and the carb settings could have been upset while they were off especially if they were separated. Could also be a change in compression ratio with a new head. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I would think the distributor would rotate at least thirty degrees, if not > forty-five. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Dec 22 01:54:15 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 08:54:15 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft References: Message-ID: <4E3FFB80C6354CB4A0F04F6E50D89385@paul> *I* don't have a lathe, and I wonder how many of us do, capable of turning something like that. Any spacer would have to be *precision* machined to replicate the dimensions of the recess and protrusion on the flanges as it is this that centralises the shaft for correct balance and not the bolts in the holes. Not a trivial task, I suggest. At #60 for a brand-new prop-shaft without part-exchange I can't see it is worth it. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Be hard NOT to balance it as you are turning it up on a lathe, Paul, but its a fair point. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Dec 22 03:05:31 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 10:05:31 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture References: <439264.19238.qm@web112109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8F1898AC7B1C4F29866DD005A5C8BBDA@paul> Where's the lights and baubles? ----- Original Message ----- > Courtesy of the Rhein-Zeitung's rzonline web site, > second picture in the slide show: > > http://www.rheinzeitung.de/on/09/12/21/news/r/bilder/bilder.html From wspohn4 at aol.com Tue Dec 22 07:09:03 2009 From: wspohn4 at aol.com (wspohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:09:03 EST Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft Message-ID: <33cf.48718247.38622cff@aol.com> Actually, it isn't that big a deal to make, and far cheaper than having a new drive shaft made up, at least around here. And yes, of course it needs to have the correct mating at each side to slot into the flanges it mates with. Bill In a message dated 22/12/2009 1:08:17 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: *I* don't have a lathe, and I wonder how many of us do, capable of turning something like that. Any spacer would have to be *precision* machined to replicate the dimensions of the recess and protrusion on the flanges as it is this that centralises the shaft for correct balance and not the bolts in the holes. Not a trivial task, I suggest. At #60 for a brand-new prop-shaft without part-exchange I can't see it is worth it. From palte at gmx.net Tue Dec 22 08:41:28 2009 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 16:41:28 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft In-Reply-To: <33cf.48718247.38622cff@aol.com> References: <33cf.48718247.38622cff@aol.com> Message-ID: <20091222154128.205660@gmx.net> Bill wrote: yes, of course it needs to have the correct mating at each side to slot into the flanges it mates > with. It's not just that. Given the max. engine RPM, there are very high demands on the concentricity of both 'matings'. It's difficult to obtain a good result this way. Bert Owner of a mechanical balancing workshop in Holland. -- GRATIS f|r alle GMX-Mitglieder: Die maxdome Movie-FLAT! Jetzt freischalten unter http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/maxdome01 From wspohn4 at aol.com Tue Dec 22 09:10:47 2009 From: wspohn4 at aol.com (wspohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 11:10:47 EST Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft Message-ID: <5f79.e5bcfc0.38624987@aol.com> We certainly never had any problems making these adaptors. I can attest that they are good and balanced at least to 130 MPH.... Bill In a message dated 22/12/2009 8:09:00 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, palte at gmx.net writes: Given the max. engine RPM, there are very high demands on the concentricity of both 'matings'. It's difficult to obtain a good result this way. From paul at ece.rochester.edu Tue Dec 22 12:59:58 2009 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:59:58 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 1967 O/D driveshaft In-Reply-To: <415838CC74844125A317F2D61C2DE958@roomofdoom> References: <565682045.6750081259141085419.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.co mcast.net><8E15DED4-BDCB-442D-A2D3-9F836763A8D5@gmail.com><42580A60105F410 A8CAD4298AAC147E9@roomofdoom> <5300D4009DC94158AF6B232BEF2FFBFF@roomofdoom> <415838CC74844125A317F2D61C2DE958@roomofdoom> Message-ID: Roger, I can help here. If you decide to go with the spacer I will make one , you pay the shipping. would think $10.00 would be more than enough. let me know. paul > >OK, well, fair enough, thanks for the replies, everyone. I have the two ends >of an O/D shaft which someone removed from the car with a sawzall (!), and >several non-OD shafts for early cars in my parts bin. So I'll just need to >weigh the costs of having a spacer milled vs. "repairing" the in-two-pieces >shaft vs. trying to find an O/D shaft. I imagine it's probably a wash, and >I'll just have a new shaft built from the remains of the one I have. > >Roger Los >'63 MGB, '64 MGB, '67 MGB GT >http://www.rustyheaps.com > >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From mgbob at juno.com Tue Dec 22 12:57:56 2009 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:57:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] water pump seal Message-ID: <20091222.145807.2316.0.MGBOB@juno.com> Does anyone know a source for the water pump seal that Phil Marino used in his modified TD pumps? It's a DILITEX, Made in UK, W 4 seal, that appears to have been a pair of lip seals separated by a spring. Phil can't find the seals from his source; I have been unable to find DILITEX, except in references to a lawsuit and sale to a trading company in India, and have not yet found a cross to another brand. Phil has worked up a modification for the modified pumps, but if we could find that W 4 seal it would be good for every one Thanks, Bob ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=9CLfHwcozfLiK6DyHZJ8uwAAJ1CFcZuYg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From jmc987 at verizon.net Tue Dec 22 13:21:03 2009 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (Joseph Cianciotti) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:21:03 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Pi Message-ID: <2073415834.50956.1261513263398.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> Great photo. But I really like the Google translation: Hansa drive also open in winter: Thomas Powl creates his very Tannenbaum purchased in the open convertible home. Joseph '67 Roadster currently collecting dust in the garage :-( On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 10:05:31 -0000, "Paul Hunt" wrote: Where's the lights and baubles? ----- Original Message ----- > Courtesy of the Rhein-Zeitung's rzonline web site, > second picture in the slide show: > > http://www.rheinzeitung.de/on/09/12/21/news/r/bilder/bilder.html From david_breneman at yahoo.com Tue Dec 22 14:49:32 2009 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 13:49:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture In-Reply-To: <2073415834.50956.1261513263398.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <632042.46435.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Tue, 12/22/09, Joseph Cianciotti wrote: > But I really like the Google translation: > > Hansa drive also open in winter: Thomas Powl creates his > very Tannenbaum purchased in the open convertible home. Babelfish seems to do a little better: "Hanseaten drive also in the winter openly: Thomas Powl creates his straight bought fir tree in the open Cabriolet home." I guess my closest approximation would be: "Trade also moves forward openly in winter. Thomas Powl ships home his newly purchased evergreen tree in an open convertible." "Hanseaten" refers to the members of the Hanseatic League, which was a federation of ports and shipping companies in the 1700s and 1800s (ergo "shipping" the tree). The whole caption is rather cleverly worded in a way that doesn't make direct translation possible. From thgun at comporium.net Tue Dec 22 15:33:12 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 17:33:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on Mga Message-ID: I have checked the distributor and my problem does not seem to be the timing. When it is at idle it will run fairly smooth. When I take it out for a drive it seems that it is starved for power. The rpm gets to aprox 3500 and the power runs out. Could it be the amount of gas that the carbs are getting? Maybe adjusting the carbs? I am looking into getting the carbs rebuilt. Any info would be great. Tom Gunderson 1957 1500 rst From peter at nosimport.com Tue Dec 22 16:03:13 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 17:03:13 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on Mga In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200912221503291.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Symptomatic of bad gas, stale, or high tension ignition, rotor, cap, wires, coil. 90 percent of fuel problems are electrical. Peter C == At 04:33 PM 12/22/2009, Tom Gunderson wrote: > I have checked the distributor and my problem does not seem to be > the timing. >When it is at idle it will run fairly smooth. When I take it out for a drive >it seems that it is starved for power. The rpm gets to aprox 3500 and the >power runs out. Could it be the amount of gas that the carbs are getting? >Maybe adjusting the carbs? I am looking into getting the carbs rebuilt. Any >info would be great. > >Tom Gunderson 1957 1500 rst From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Dec 22 16:08:16 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 15:08:16 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on Mga In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Will it rev past 3500 in neutral? Have you done a fuel delivery test to see if the pump is suppling an adequate volume? On Tue, Dec 22, 2009 at 2:33 PM, Tom Gunderson wrote: > I have checked the distributor and my problem does not seem to be the > timing. > When it is at idle it will run fairly smooth. When I take it out for a > drive > it seems that it is starved for power. The rpm gets to aprox 3500 and the > power runs out. Could it be the amount of gas that the carbs are getting? > Maybe adjusting the carbs? I am looking into getting the carbs rebuilt. Any > info would be great. > > Tom Gunderson 1957 1500 rst > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Tue Dec 22 18:26:56 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:26:56 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [Mg-t] water pump seal In-Reply-To: <20091222.145807.2316.0.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20091222.145807.2316.0.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <4B3171E0.3060201@justbrits.com> << but if we could find that W 4 seal it would be good for every one >> Got a REAL auto pars store around, Bob??? With a REAL parts man ??? Or an Industrial Seal Branch ??? Me From thgun at comporium.net Tue Dec 22 18:59:13 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 20:59:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] PLUG WIRES Message-ID: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> What otc wires can I pick up localy. NAPA, Auto Zone, ect..? Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst From strovato at optonline.net Tue Dec 22 19:22:05 2009 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 21:22:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on Mga In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0KV300I862L3FH70@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I really don't know much about the state of your car, so here's a "shot in the dark" comment. What's the condition of the exhaust system? RPM is pretty much proportional to flow of air into the engine and exhaust out of the engine, right? I could see how a restricted exhaust could limit RPM. Any mice move into the muffler while it was in storage? Of course, could be a hundred other things too. Just thought I'd toss this idea out there. As for carbs, Joe Curto is the first guy I think of for SU carbs. He really seems to know what he's doing. www.joecurto.com -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 05:33 PM 12/22/2009, Tom Gunderson wrote: > I have checked the distributor and my problem does not seem to be > the timing. >When it is at idle it will run fairly smooth. When I take it out for a drive >it seems that it is starved for power. The rpm gets to aprox 3500 and the >power runs out. Could it be the amount of gas that the carbs are getting? >Maybe adjusting the carbs? I am looking into getting the carbs rebuilt. Any >info would be great. From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 22 19:32:27 2009 From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 20:32:27 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder References: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> Message-ID: I just put on a brand new brake master cylinder on my 1973 MGB. I have had it on the shelf for the last two years. Finally getting around to working on the car. The problem I have is that the master cylinder leaks. It apparently is around the reservior area. Has anyone had this problem???? Looking for suggestions. Thanks, Craig From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Dec 23 01:06:36 2009 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Eric Frenken) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:06:36 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture In-Reply-To: <632042.46435.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <2073415834.50956.1261513263398.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> <632042.46435.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301ca83a6$d93799f0$8ba6cdd0$@com> David, you're close but Google was better on the first sentence. The first sentence translates into "Hanseaten drive top down also in winter". Your reference to Hanseaten is correct. Nowadays people living in Hamburg, Bremen and some other northern German cities are sometimes referred to "Hanseaten" colloquially. The Hanseatic League (Hanse: very old German word for entourage or cohort) was founded in the mid of the 1200s and lasted till 1669. It was a league founded for commercial reasons and to make seafaring safer by defending merchants from buccaneers. Happy Christmas Eric Heinsberg/Germany > But I really like the Google translation: > > Hansa drive also open in winter: Thomas Powl creates his > very Tannenbaum purchased in the open convertible home. Babelfish seems to do a little better: "Hanseaten drive also in the winter openly: Thomas Powl creates his straight bought fir tree in the open Cabriolet home." I guess my closest approximation would be: "Trade also moves forward openly in winter. Thomas Powl ships home his newly purchased evergreen tree in an open convertible." "Hanseaten" refers to the members of the Hanseatic League, which was a federation of ports and shipping companies in the 1700s and 1800s (ergo "shipping" the tree). The whole caption is rather cleverly worded in a way that doesn't make direct translation possible. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 23 01:42:02 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 08:42:02 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture References: <632042.46435.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1BDFC0F2A5304DECA1EDD9D2453F313E@paul> Eh? Surely "Hanse drives with the top down in winter as well" ----- Original Message ----- > "Trade also moves forward openly in winter. Thomas Powl > ships home his newly purchased evergreen tree in an > open convertible." From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 23 02:01:45 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:01:45 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder References: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> Message-ID: Leaks from where? The banjo union? If so reseal it. The other end of the cylinder where the push-rod goes in? If so try pumping the pedal up and down as fast as you can for as long as you can, which should soften up the seals, if the weather is cold try warming up the cylinder first with a hair drier or fan heater. New cylinders and long layups with no fluid can allow seals to dry out, harden and leak back when refilled. A pal putting his car back on the road after a couple of years had the main seal weeping (gears intermittently graunching and baulking) until he tried this, which very fortuitously was a tip published in that months issue of the MGOC magazine. If it's leaking from anywhere else then it may be no good, although if it's from between the reservoir and the cylinder you *may* be able to solder it. I've had the reservoir corroded through in the past, but I hardly think that is the cause on a new one. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I just put on a brand new brake master cylinder on my 1973 MGB. I have had >it on the shelf for the last two years. > The problem I have is that the master cylinder leaks. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 23 01:50:06 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 08:50:06 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on Mga References: Message-ID: I'd go with this too. A standard SU pump should deliver at least one Imperial pint per minute, but in practice closer to two, in a steady series of pulses with minimal bubbles. How did you check the timing? Did you do an advance test? Stuck centrifugal advance could cause this as well. Disconnect the vacuum pipe and plug the (presumably) carb port, then rev the engine with a timing light on the marks and check it does advance. To make things easier with the pulley notch against the TDC pointer (which I presume are underneath) make a paint mark on top of the pulley where you can see it from above so you can rev and watch at the same time, you are really only interested in does it advance significantly when revved, not the exact readings at this stage. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Have you done a fuel delivery test to see if the pump is suppling an > adequate volume? From david_breneman at yahoo.com Wed Dec 23 06:44:31 2009 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 05:44:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture In-Reply-To: <1BDFC0F2A5304DECA1EDD9D2453F313E@paul> Message-ID: <396438.54313.qm@web112115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Wed, 12/23/09, Paul Hunt wrote: > Eh? Surely "Hanse drives with > the top down in winter as well" I took "Hanseaten" to be a reference to the trade guild, not to the person. Regional colloquialisms don't come across very well without local knowledge. You should try Kottenheimer some day... From peter at nosimport.com Wed Dec 23 08:10:13 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:10:13 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] PLUG WIRES In-Reply-To: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> References: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> Message-ID: <200912230710256.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Any Universal set of wires will do. Or a set for an MGB, 1980. You have to cut the cap ends off anyway. Most FLAPS will have something. Bosch 09041 will be a part number to cross from. They are for a B. I prefer to use solid core wires, though if you've fallen prey to the electronic ignition hype, you'll want to avoid them. Solid core wires from Bosch are 09985 (4 cylinder) 09987 for 8-cyl. 2 sets. Peter C ====== At 07:59 PM 12/22/2009, Tom Gunderson wrote: >What otc wires can I pick up localy. NAPA, Auto Zone, ect..? > >Tom Gunderson 1957 MGA 1500 rst From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Wed Dec 23 11:26:21 2009 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 19:26:21 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder References: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> Message-ID: Is the reservoir tight fit? Between the reservoir and the MC cyl are two O-rings. If the leaking fluid comes from under the reservoir, it maybe, that the rings are missing or faulty. Better check this out. I assume it is regarding the dual tandem US spec. MC, which was used from 1969 till some 1974. Cheers, Hans P.S. Merry Christmas list! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Craig Straub" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder > Leaks from where? The banjo union? If so reseal it. The other end of > the cylinder where the push-rod goes in? If so try pumping the pedal up > and down as fast as you can for as long as you can, which should soften up > the seals, if the weather is cold try warming up the cylinder first with a > hair drier or fan heater. New cylinders and long layups with no fluid can > allow seals to dry out, harden and leak back when refilled. A pal putting > his car back on the road after a couple of years had the main seal weeping > (gears intermittently graunching and baulking) until he tried this, which > very fortuitously was a tip published in that months issue of the MGOC > magazine. > > If it's leaking from anywhere else then it may be no good, although if > it's from between the reservoir and the cylinder you *may* be able to > solder it. I've had the reservoir corroded through in the past, but I > hardly think that is the cause on a new one. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >>I just put on a brand new brake master cylinder on my 1973 MGB. I have >>had it on the shelf for the last two years. >> The problem I have is that the master cylinder leaks. From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Wed Dec 23 11:28:43 2009 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 19:28:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture References: <632042.46435.qm@web112112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <1BDFC0F2A5304DECA1EDD9D2453F313E@paul> Message-ID: I - Hans - keeps the top always up! BTW, the typical trade treaty of many cities in the continental part of Europe concerned cities in many countries including Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Netherlands, Norway etc. Cheers, Hans - 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "David Breneman" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 9:42 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Great MG Christmas Picture > Eh? Surely "Hanse drives with the top down in winter as well" > > ----- Original Message ----- >> "Trade also moves forward openly in winter. Thomas Powl ships home his >> newly purchased evergreen tree in an >> open convertible." From don at napanet.net Wed Dec 23 15:31:46 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 14:31:46 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler Message-ID: <20091223223711.C94A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net> Hello list, Now that I'm retired, I am cleaning up the old MGA from years of sitting. Mice and rats used it for a home. Anyway, finally got it fired up. Now, I am realizing that part of the reason that I didn't use it much was that it was too damn loud. It has a glasspack muffler and it's too loud for these old ears. So, does anyone out there in MG land have a muffler that they never installed that they would like to sell? (remote chance of this, I know) More likely, I will buy one new. Can anyone offer their recommendation on what's best for the money? Thanks! Don >_________________________________________________________ > > >Don Scott >Calistoga CA >2001 Miata SE BRG >1973 MGB GT >1962 MGA Mk II >1967 MGB (not quite yet) > >_______________________________________________ From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net Wed Dec 23 15:34:29 2009 From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 16:34:29 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder References: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> Message-ID: <3F256C0402844E19B80273933FD60DE9@DELL> This is a 1973 dual master cylinder that I purchased new a couple of years ago and has the plastic tank reservior. It is not leaking at the rear connection. Can only assume that it is leaking at the tank area. Are the "O" rings standard where I can just go to the autoparts store and get new and what size are they? Finally getting around to getting the car running after 6 years of sitting. I have had the car since brand new and have upgraded the engine with Mikuni side draft carb, Pace headers, an upgraded cam, and 30 over pistons. This is the cheapest solution I have. I had been looking at Lotus Elise's but they are not cheap and I really cannot get my 6'3" body into one plus my sir arthur really acts up also when trying to get into one. . Oh by the way my race car is a Lotus Super 7. Getting in is like slipping on a pair of shoes. Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hans Duinhoven" To: "Paul Hunt" ; "Craig Straub" ; <> Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 12:26 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder > Is the reservoir tight fit? > Between the reservoir and the MC cyl are two O-rings. > If the leaking fluid comes from under the reservoir, it maybe, that the > rings are missing or faulty. > Better check this out. > I assume it is regarding the dual tandem US spec. MC, which was used from > 1969 till some 1974. > > Cheers, > > Hans > > P.S. Merry Christmas list! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Hunt" > To: "Craig Straub" ; > Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 10:01 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder > > >> Leaks from where? The banjo union? If so reseal it. The other end of >> the cylinder where the push-rod goes in? If so try pumping the pedal up >> and down as fast as you can for as long as you can, which should soften >> up the seals, if the weather is cold try warming up the cylinder first >> with a hair drier or fan heater. New cylinders and long layups with no >> fluid can allow seals to dry out, harden and leak back when refilled. A >> pal putting his car back on the road after a couple of years had the main >> seal weeping (gears intermittently graunching and baulking) until he >> tried this, which very fortuitously was a tip published in that months >> issue of the MGOC magazine. >> >> If it's leaking from anywhere else then it may be no good, although if >> it's from between the reservoir and the cylinder you *may* be able to >> solder it. I've had the reservoir corroded through in the past, but I >> hardly think that is the cause on a new one. >> >> PaulH. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >>>I just put on a brand new brake master cylinder on my 1973 MGB. I have >>>had it on the shelf for the last two years. >>> The problem I have is that the master cylinder leaks. From strovato at optonline.net Wed Dec 23 15:48:56 2009 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 17:48:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <20091223223711.C94A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net> References: <20091223223711.C94A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <0KV400KHKNFR5Q21@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Well, if you're not into noise and you're not racing, I would just go with a system from one of the usual suspects. I've had a stainless system from Moss on mine for 20 plus years. If you go to the Moss site, http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=37712 and click on "more info" next to the listing, you get a whole bunch of very nice pictures. At 05:31 PM 12/23/2009, don wrote: >Hello list, >Now that I'm retired, I am cleaning up the old MGA from years of >sitting. Mice and rats used it for a home. Anyway, finally got it >fired up. Now, I am realizing that part of the reason that I didn't >use it much was that it was too damn loud. It has a glasspack >muffler and it's too loud for these old ears. >So, does anyone out there in MG land have a muffler that they never >installed that they would like to sell? (remote chance of this, I know) >More likely, I will buy one new. Can anyone offer their >recommendation on what's best for the money? >Thanks! >Don From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Wed Dec 23 16:46:08 2009 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 16:46:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder In-Reply-To: <3F256C0402844E19B80273933FD60DE9@DELL> References: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC> <3F256C0402844E19B80273933FD60DE9@DELL> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D444@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> The plastic reservoir does have two flat round rubber seals where it seals against the metal cylinder. So a leak is possible from either one. I don't know how standard they are. They are in this Moss Motor illustration as part of the master cylinder rebuild kit: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29029&Sort Order=2 Anymore I just order the actual parts if I can. A few times I have had to look for generic seals (like the rubber seals where the jets enter the float bowl on the SU carbs). Finding the correct flat seals has been a problem as the generic o-rings I have found tend to be round not flat although they may work if proper diameter and thickness. But for $17.95 USD and shipping, you will get what should be the sure thing. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Straub Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 3:34 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder This is a 1973 dual master cylinder that I purchased new a couple of years ago and has the plastic tank reservior. It is not leaking at the rear connection. Can only assume that it is leaking at the tank area. Are the "O" rings standard where I can just go to the autoparts store and get new and what size are they? Finally getting around to getting the car running after 6 years of sitting. I have had the car since brand new and have upgraded the engine with Mikuni side draft carb, Pace headers, an upgraded cam, and 30 over pistons. This is the cheapest solution I have. I had been looking at Lotus Elise's but they are not cheap and I really cannot get my 6'3" body into one plus my sir arthur really acts up also when trying to get into one. . Oh by the way my race car is a Lotus Super 7. Getting in is like slipping on a pair of shoes. Craig From james.f.juhas at snet.net Wed Dec 23 18:49:10 2009 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 20:49:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <0KV400KHKNFR5Q21@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <20091223223711.C94A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net> <0KV400KHKNFR5Q21@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <4B32C896.80605@snet.net> Don: I do race my MGA but even so, my muffler solution might be of interest to you. I use a SuperTrap muffler I bought from Pegasus Racing (good people). The sound and back pressure is controlled by installing dispersion disks at the outlet. You can tune it to your particular requirements. Other than the disks, the muffler is a conventional glass pack. It's available in stainless and comes in a variety of lengths, diameters and inlet pipe sizes. What I think is an advantage for a road car is that the disks when in place will prevent any vermin from entering. Most of the mufflers I have seen for our cars are straight through, inviting the little creatures to nest within. It may be more expensive than the usual fare, but perhaps not by much when comparing stainless prices. And they are rebuildable. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4299 Jim Steven Trovato wrote: > Well, if you're not into noise and you're not racing, I would just go > with a system from one of the usual suspects. I've had a stainless > system from Moss on mine for 20 plus years. If you go to the Moss > site, > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=37712 > and click on "more info" next to the listing, you get a whole bunch of > very nice pictures. > > At 05:31 PM 12/23/2009, don wrote: >> Hello list, >> Now that I'm retired, I am cleaning up the old MGA from years of >> sitting. Mice and rats used it for a home. Anyway, finally got it >> fired up. Now, I am realizing that part of the reason that I didn't >> use it much was that it was too damn loud. It has a glasspack >> muffler and it's too loud for these old ears. >> So, does anyone out there in MG land have a muffler that they never >> installed that they would like to sell? (remote chance of this, I know) >> More likely, I will buy one new. Can anyone offer their >> recommendation on what's best for the money? >> Thanks! >> Don > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- From strovato at optonline.net Wed Dec 23 19:18:04 2009 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 21:18:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <4B32C896.80605@snet.net> References: <20091223223711.C94A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net> <0KV400KHKNFR5Q21@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4B32C896.80605@snet.net> Message-ID: <0KV400JQCX2F20C0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> That is an option. The appearance is very non-original, if that matters to you at all. At 08:49 PM 12/23/2009, Jim Juhas wrote: >Don: > >I do race my MGA but even so, my muffler solution might be of interest to you. > >I use a SuperTrap muffler I bought from Pegasus Racing (good >people). The sound and back pressure is controlled by installing >dispersion disks at the outlet. From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 24 06:25:24 2009 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 07:25:24 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <0KV400JQCX2F20C0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <20091223223711.C94A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net><0KV400KHKNFR5Q21@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4B32C896.80605@snet.net> <0KV400JQCX2F20C0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <5461462DB53644C39FFD3E57ADE3AF48@HomePC> I have heard that they are not very efficient. IOW, they rob horsepower. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Steven Trovato" Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 8:18 PM To: "Jim Juhas" ; "don" ; Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA muffler That is an option. The appearance is very non-original, if that matters to you at all. At 08:49 PM 12/23/2009, Jim Juhas wrote: >Don: > >I do race my MGA but even so, my muffler solution might be of interest to >you. > >I use a SuperTrap muffler I bought from Pegasus Racing (good >people). The sound and back pressure is controlled by installing >dispersion disks at the outlet. Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From thgun at comporium.net Thu Dec 24 06:41:50 2009 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:41:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA Message-ID: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC> >I may have tuned into my problem. I cleaned the gas pump filter and added a >clear filter filter inline where there was a rubber hose in the gas line >under the hood. I started the engine and let it warm-up. Then stopped the >engine. I removed each plug wire one at a time and restarted it. I wanted >to see if one or more of the cylinders was realy hitting. I found out that >the rear two cylinders did not seem to be hitting. The engine would run >with the front two by them selves but not with the rear two. Does that mean >that the rear carb may not be delivering gas to the # 3 and # 4 cylinders? Tom Gunderson 1957 1500 rst From mg_garage at comcast.net Thu Dec 24 06:57:11 2009 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (gordies garage) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:57:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA References: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC> Message-ID: <7DC88F8F1BE6474CBE83931F9C545C5C@stargate> If you're concerned about fuel, pull the #3 & #4 plugs after cranking with wires disconnected and see if they are wet. I'd probably hook up an inductive timing light to the offending wires and see if I get a flash, then if not I would check the contacts in the cap to verify contact, rotor, and compare resistance reading of offending wires with good wires. Also double check points for correct operation. Good luck. Gordie '62 MGA '67 BGT > >I may have tuned into my problem. I cleaned the gas pump filter and added > >a >>clear filter filter inline where there was a rubber hose in the gas line >>under the hood. I started the engine and let it warm-up. Then stopped the >>engine. I removed each plug wire one at a time and restarted it. I wanted >>to see if one or more of the cylinders was realy hitting. I found out that >>the rear two cylinders did not seem to be hitting. The engine would run >>with the front two by them selves but not with the rear two. Does that >>mean >>that the rear carb may not be delivering gas to the # 3 and # 4 cylinders? > > Tom Gunderson 1957 1500 rst > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 4714 (20091224) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com From strovato at optonline.net Thu Dec 24 07:12:10 2009 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 09:12:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA In-Reply-To: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC> References: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC> Message-ID: <0KV5001BWU4EA6H0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Well, that clearly gives you something suspicious to investigate. Earlier you said "When it is at idle it will run fairly smooth. When I take it out for a drive it seems that it is starved for power. The rpm gets to aprox 3500 and the power runs out." If you were really getting nothing at all out of the rear carb, I think your symptoms would be a lot worse than you describe. Fairly smooth on two cylinders? I don't think so. Further investigation is definitely indicated, though. Do you have an "SU toolkit" or uni-syn? You should be able to get some information on whether or not the two carbs are responding equally. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 08:41 AM 12/24/2009, Tom Gunderson wrote: > >I may have tuned into my problem. I cleaned the gas pump filter and added a > >clear filter filter inline where there was a rubber hose in the gas line > >under the hood. I started the engine and let it warm-up. Then stopped the > >engine. I removed each plug wire one at a time and restarted it. I wanted > >to see if one or more of the cylinders was realy hitting. I found out that > >the rear two cylinders did not seem to be hitting. The engine would run > >with the front two by them selves but not with the rear two. Does that mean > >that the rear carb may not be delivering gas to the # 3 and # 4 cylinders? From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Dec 24 07:36:41 2009 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:36:41 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <5461462DB53644C39FFD3E57ADE3AF48@HomePC> References: <20091223223711.C94A124BA5D@mail.napanet.net> <0KV400KHKNFR5Q21@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4B32C896.80605@snet.net> <0KV400JQCX2F20C0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <5461462DB53644C39FFD3E57ADE3AF48@HomePC> Message-ID: <493806.37003.qm@smtp103.sbc.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Supertrap mufflers are not intended to be quiet. It is first of all a straight through pipe with negligable restriction. The primary function of the end plates is to adjust the desired back pressure. Increasing back pressure can improve engine torque in the lower speed range with a highly strung racing engine (translation "racing camshaft"). If you restrict flow and increase back pressure enough to make the Supertrap quiet the engine performance will suffer badly. At 07:25 AM 12/24/2009 -0600, Larry Daniels wrote: >I have heard that they are not very efficient. IOW, they rob horsepower. > >-------------------------------------------------- >From: "Steven Trovato" >Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 8:18 PM >To: "Jim Juhas" ; "don" ; > >Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA muffler > >That is an option. The appearance is very non-original, if that >matters to you at all. > >At 08:49 PM 12/23/2009, Jim Juhas wrote: > >Don: > > > >I do race my MGA but even so, my muffler solution might be of > interest to you. > > > >I use a SuperTrap muffler I bought from Pegasus Racing (good > people). The sound and back pressure is controlled by installing > dispersion disks at the outlet. >.... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Dec 24 07:14:55 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:14:55 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA References: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC> Message-ID: Sounds very much like it, but have you confirmed you have a spark at those two leads? Have you swapped the front pair of plugs with the rear? ----- Original Message ----- >>... I removed each plug wire one at a time and restarted it. I wanted >>to see if one or more of the cylinders was realy hitting. I found out that >>the rear two cylinders did not seem to be hitting. The engine would run >>with the front two by them selves but not with the rear two. Does that >>mean >>that the rear carb may not be delivering gas to the # 3 and # 4 cylinders? From wspohn4 at aol.com Thu Dec 24 07:56:14 2009 From: wspohn4 at aol.com (wspohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 09:56:14 EST Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler Message-ID: <2ee2.61d76746.3864db0e@aol.com> Well actually they are. But only quiet enough to meet race regs on noise limits. I don't like Supertraps for the street. They look odd and don't really do the job people expect in the street environment. Exhaust tone certainly isn't a design criterion for them, just getting under that limit is the driving force. I have seen, or rater heard much better results from adapting modern mufflers to old cars. They have small bodied mufflers that fit under MGs made by the large manufacturers. I use a Magnaflow that has an OD of only 6" diameter in the Jamaican, and it fits nicely between gas tank and leaf springs. Most of these mufflers only come in 2.5" size as the smallest and most MG systems are only 1 7/8" or maybe 2" at largest even in so called sports systems, but you can just use an adaptor on each end. If it is still a bit too rorty for you, just add a small resonator tip to remove any residual bark and you have a very nice street MG system. Bill S. In a message dated 24/12/2009 6:46:16 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, barneymg at mgaguru.com writes: Supertrap mufflers are not intended to be quiet. It is first of all a straight through pipe with negligable restriction. From peter at nosimport.com Thu Dec 24 08:15:45 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 09:15:45 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA In-Reply-To: References: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC> Message-ID: <200912240715131.SM01188@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Or even made sure the firing order is correct? 1342 If 3 & 4 are swapped, it may run better. And, please, let us know what you find. People who offer advice like to know if it worked or not. Peter C == At 08:14 AM 12/24/2009, Paul Hunt wrote: >Sounds very much like it, but have you confirmed you have a spark at >those two leads? Have you swapped the front pair of plugs with the rear? > >----- Original Message ----- >>>... I removed each plug wire one at a time and restarted it. I wanted >>>to see if one or more of the cylinders was realy hitting. I found out that >>>the rear two cylinders did not seem to be hitting. The engine would run >>>with the front two by them selves but not with the rear two. Does that mean >>>that the rear carb may not be delivering gas to the # 3 and # 4 cylinders? From strovato at optonline.net Thu Dec 24 08:16:37 2009 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 10:16:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <2ee2.61d76746.3864db0e@aol.com> References: <2ee2.61d76746.3864db0e@aol.com> Message-ID: <0KV50013GX4PVDV0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> I still don't understand the problem here. If one is looking for a plain old reasonably quiet muffler, the usual suspects sell them. I don't see any reason to put all this effort into it, unless you have goals that are not being met by the standard offerings. At 09:56 AM 12/24/2009, wspohn4 at aol.com wrote: >I have seen, or rater heard much better results from adapting modern >mufflers to old cars. From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Dec 24 08:29:59 2009 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 16:29:59 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder References: <97A3F60B0BE0401A98807D8097755F0D@TOMPC><3F256C0402844E19B80273933FD60DE9@DELL> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D444@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: Maybe just retightening the fixing screws might give the solution. You never know... Be careful with the type of seals you plan to use. These should be able to withstand the aggressive brake fluid. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT 70 Puch MS50V 73 Puch MV50 Yes these are classic mopeds! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Councill, David" To: "Craig Straub" ; Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 12:46 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder > The plastic reservoir does have two flat round rubber seals where it > seals against the metal cylinder. So a leak is possible from either one. > I don't know how standard they are. They are in this Moss Motor > illustration as part of the master cylinder rebuild kit: > > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29029&Sort > Order=2 > > Anymore I just order the actual parts if I can. A few times I have had > to look for generic seals (like the rubber seals where the jets enter > the float bowl on the SU carbs). Finding the correct flat seals has been > a problem as the generic o-rings I have found tend to be round not flat > although they may work if proper diameter and thickness. But for $17.95 > USD and shipping, you will get what should be the sure thing. > > David Councill > 64 B > 67 BGT > 72 B > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Craig Straub > Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 3:34 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder > > This is a 1973 dual master cylinder that I purchased new a couple of > years > ago and has the plastic tank reservior. > > It is not leaking at the rear connection. Can only assume that it is > leaking at the tank area. > > Are the "O" rings standard where I can just go to the autoparts store > and > get new and what size are they? > > Finally getting around to getting the car running after 6 years of > sitting. > > I have had the car since brand new and have upgraded the engine with > Mikuni > side draft carb, Pace headers, an upgraded cam, and 30 over pistons. > > This is the cheapest solution I have. I had been looking at Lotus > Elise's > but they are not cheap and I really cannot get my 6'3" body into one > plus my > sir arthur really acts up also when trying to get into one. . > > Oh by the way my race car is a Lotus Super 7. Getting in is like > slipping > on a pair of shoes. > > Craig From don at napanet.net Thu Dec 24 09:34:09 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:34:09 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <0KV50013GX4PVDV0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <2ee2.61d76746.3864db0e@aol.com> <0KV50013GX4PVDV0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <20091224163944.8E24524BA5D@mail.napanet.net> My apologies for posting it in the first place. I have a TR4A and the muffler price is close to $300. I didn't have a Moss MGA catalogue and I was assuming the MGA muffler was a ripoff too. It's not cheap, but the price from Moss or Northwest is not that bad. I assumed wrong, posted when I shouldn't have. Don At 07:16 AM 12/24/2009, Steven Trovato wrote: >I still don't understand the problem here. If one is looking for a >plain old reasonably quiet muffler, the usual suspects sell them. I >don't see any reason to put all this effort into it, unless you have >goals that are not being met by the standard offerings. > >At 09:56 AM 12/24/2009, wspohn4 at aol.com wrote: >>I have seen, or rater heard much better results from adapting modern >>mufflers to old cars. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Dec 24 09:43:06 2009 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:43:06 EST Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler Message-ID: Yeah but that is for a pair of mufflers - not unreasonable. Or if you have that silly late TR4A - TR-6 transverse large muffler, consider tossing it and replacing the pipe with a custom single with a modern straight through muffler of suitable size on it. The whole job at a good muffler shop should cost about what the muffler would cost for the stock one. Bill (who went single pipe on a TR4A and is even sounded better as well as being cheaper) In a message dated 12/24/2009 8:34:47 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, don at napanet.net writes: My apologies for posting it in the first place. I have a TR4A and the muffler price is close to $300. From strovato at optonline.net Thu Dec 24 10:44:35 2009 From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 12:44:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: <20091224163944.8E24524BA5D@mail.napanet.net> References: <2ee2.61d76746.3864db0e@aol.com> <0KV50013GX4PVDV0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <20091224163944.8E24524BA5D@mail.napanet.net> Message-ID: <0KV600F7P3YGW590@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Don, Moss shows just a plain old muffler at 59.95. Their whole catalog is available online. Check here: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29233 And no apologies are necessary. No problem talking about MG stuff and considering different alternatives. That's what the list is all about. -Steve Trovato strovato at optonline.net At 11:34 AM 12/24/2009, don wrote: >My apologies for posting it in the first place. I have a TR4A and >the muffler price is close to $300. I didn't have a Moss MGA >catalogue and I was assuming the MGA muffler was a ripoff too. It's >not cheap, but the price from Moss or Northwest is not that bad. I >assumed wrong, posted when I shouldn't have. >Don From rocknatural at gmail.com Thu Dec 24 10:54:45 2009 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:54:45 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA In-Reply-To: <0KV5001BWU4EA6H0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> References: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC> <0KV5001BWU4EA6H0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Message-ID: <4B33AAE5.4070304@gmail.com> Steven Trovato wrote: > Well, that clearly gives you something suspicious to investigate. > Earlier you said "When it is at idle it will run fairly smooth. When I > take it out for a drive it seems that it is starved for power. The rpm > gets to aprox 3500 and the power runs out." I have had similar symptoms when the little braided ground wire inside the diz broke off at the spot-weld. -The Roxter -- From don at napanet.net Thu Dec 24 12:23:31 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:23:31 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGA muffler In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20091224192912.B899E24BA5D@mail.napanet.net> No, it is for the large single muffler. However, I was lucky as TRF had one that was cosmetically not pretty sitting in their warehouse, and they sold it to me for $100. Don At 08:43 AM 12/24/2009, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: >Yeah but that is for a pair of mufflers - not unreasonable. Or if >you have that silly late TR4A - TR-6 transverse large muffler, >consider tossing it and replacing the pipe with a custom single with >a modern straight through muffler of suitable size on it. > >The whole job at a good muffler shop should cost about what the >muffler would cost for the stock one. > >Bill >(who went single pipe on a TR4A and is even sounded better as well >as being cheaper) > >In a message dated 12/24/2009 8:34:47 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, >don at napanet.net writes: >My apologies for posting it in the first place. I have a TR4A and >the muffler price is close to $300. From g.schnittke at comcast.net Thu Dec 24 13:37:36 2009 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:37:36 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA Message-ID: <4B33D110.8050803@comcast.net> And I've gone as far as to use braided solder wicking to replace that successfully. As usual, it was all about amperage. I, too have had that happen when the ground wire inside the diz slowly came off its moorings, as well as the alternator wires slowly breaking one by one. "One the carbs are set, if anything goes wrong, it's electrical." Not likely, but the advance springs might be worn. Glenn > Message: 11 > Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:54:45 -0600 > From: The Roxter > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Still working on MGA > To: "mgs at autox.team.net" > Message-ID: <4B33AAE5.4070304 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Steven Trovato wrote: >> > Well, that clearly gives you something suspicious to investigate. >> > Earlier you said "When it is at idle it will run fairly smooth. When I >> > take it out for a drive it seems that it is starved for power. The rpm >> > gets to aprox 3500 and the power runs out." > I have had similar symptoms when the little braided ground wire inside the diz broke off at the spot-weld. > > -The Roxter > -- From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Dec 26 21:24:53 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 22:24:53 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] 2010 event In-Reply-To: References: <826E26D805E24F0DA7AF553946945945@TOMPC> Message-ID: <440FC852CA5A48F7B2561A91DA1A1FBF@ranteer.local> did I imagine there is an mg event in september 2010? in georgia? more info, anyone??? thanks. From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Dec 26 21:52:31 2009 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 15:22:31 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] 2010 event In-Reply-To: <440FC852CA5A48F7B2561A91DA1A1FBF@ranteer.local> References: <826E26D805E24F0DA7AF553946945945@TOMPC> <440FC852CA5A48F7B2561A91DA1A1FBF@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4B36E80F.3050206@erickson.on.net> oliver wrote: > did I imagine there is an mg event in september 2010? in georgia? > > more info, anyone??? > There is one in April - but further south than Georgia! http://natmeet2010.mgccsa.org.au/ :-) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Dec 27 03:36:12 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 10:36:12 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Still working on MGA References: <6130A6E2BD0E41DE9D574771F3604A78@TOMPC><0KV5001BWU4EA6H0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <4B33AAE5.4070304@gmail.com> Message-ID: <571E97E2FE6E4B2189C3EB4518F32A1E@paul> That would normally affect all cylinders, not just the rear two. ----- Original Message ----- > I have had similar symptoms when the little braided ground wire inside the > diz broke off at the spot-weld. From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk Sun Dec 27 04:24:18 2009 From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 06:24:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 2010 event In-Reply-To: <4B36E80F.3050206@erickson.on.net> References: <826E26D805E24F0DA7AF553946945945@TOMPC><440FC852CA5A48F7B2561A91DA1A1FBF@ranteer.local> <4B36E80F.3050206@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <4022FA342F78420B8435EE206121AB4B@RickPC> Here ya go Eric: Sept. 24-26, 2010 - Southeast British Car Festival- Dillard, GA. The Peachtree MG Registry invites you to join us in Sept 2010 for a relaxing southern style weekend in the Northeast Georgia mountains at The Dillard House in Dillard, GA. Show, auctions, valve cover races, driving tours, hospitality suite and some of the best Southern cooking you'll find. The porch swings and rocking chairs are perfect for visiting with friends old and new and swapping stories - You'll feel right at home! Contact: Larry Norton. Phone 404-386-1151. Email: mgbnut1973 at yahoo.com. Website: www.peachtreemg.com. Rick Webmaster for: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr - The North American MGB Register http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil - North American Council of MG Registers http://www.mgcars.org.uk/amgcr - American MGC Register http://www.flamemini.net - Florida mini Enthusiasts http://www.britishcarclub.net - Nature Coast English Car Club and The Suncoast Classic MG Club ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Erickson" To: "oliver" Cc: Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 23:52 Subject: Re: [Mgs] 2010 event > oliver wrote: >> did I imagine there is an mg event in september 2010? in georgia? >> >> more info, anyone??? >> > > > There is one in April - but further south than Georgia! > > http://natmeet2010.mgccsa.org.au/ From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Dec 27 12:31:48 2009 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 11:31:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] O/T another British car in the family In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <959541.84202.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey MG Friends, Its been a long time since I posted here, but I do still stay connected. you are good people. I write today to tell you that I have purchased yet another British sports car. I have found and purchased a '73 Jaguar SIII 2+2. It will be my wife's car. I should have it in hand within a couple of weeks. http://www.aubard.us/Jaguar/686.jpg http://www.aubard.us/Jaguar/661.jpg My friend Rui Gigante has begun the restoration of his MGB-GT. His MGA is as close to 'perfect' as any restoration I have ever seen. And I can rest assured that his B-GT will also be superb. Perhaps we can convince him to post some pictures. He is a member here. Rui? regards, -rick From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Dec 27 13:26:12 2009 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:26:12 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] O/T another British car in the family References: <959541.84202.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <52BBECED35294D55A9D2813A7D2A7C75@uw471de61b465c> Hi Rick, Congrats with the new kid on the block! The E-Type is my dream car. I know of one nearby - a 1968 series 1.5, but the state is terrible. Maybe once I'll bite the bullet and purchase it, in order to restore it. Anyway enjoy! Looks great. Cheers, Hans '71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Lindsay" To: Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 8:31 PM Subject: [Mgs] O/T another British car in the family > Hey MG Friends, > > Its been a long time since I posted here, but I do still stay connected. > you are good people. > > I write today to tell you that I have purchased yet another British sports > car. I have found and purchased a '73 Jaguar SIII 2+2. It will be my > wife's car. I should have it in hand within a couple of weeks. > > http://www.aubard.us/Jaguar/686.jpg > > http://www.aubard.us/Jaguar/661.jpg > > My friend Rui Gigante has begun the restoration of his MGB-GT. His MGA is > as close to 'perfect' as any restoration I have ever seen. And I can rest > assured that his B-GT will also be superb. Perhaps we can convince him to > post some pictures. He is a member here. Rui? > > regards, > > -rick From eric at erickson.on.net Sun Dec 27 17:50:14 2009 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:20:14 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] O/T another British car in the family In-Reply-To: <959541.84202.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <959541.84202.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B3800C6.3060600@erickson.on.net> Rick Lindsay wrote: > I write today to tell you that I have purchased yet another British sports car. I have found and purchased a '73 Jaguar SIII 2+2. It will be my wife's car. I should have it in hand within a couple of weeks. > Congrats on the new family member, Rick. And by the way, it is not too late for me to get you the paperwork for the Melbourne F1GP! :-) Eric From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Dec 27 18:24:25 2009 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 17:24:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] O/T another British car in the family In-Reply-To: <959541.84202.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <959541.84202.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <183064.79342.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Good deal, Rick. What ever happened to the tractor-engined car that you previously were working on? ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Rick Lindsay To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, December 27, 2009 2:31:48 PM Subject: [Mgs] O/T another British car in the family Hey MG Friends, Its been a long time since I posted here, but I do still stay connected. you are good people. I write today to tell you that I have purchased yet another British sports car. I have found and purchased a '73 Jaguar SIII 2+2. It will be my wife's car. I should have it in hand within a couple of weeks. http://www.aubard.us/Jaguar/686.jpg http://www.aubard.us/Jaguar/661.jpg My friend Rui Gigante has begun the restoration of his MGB-GT. His MGA is as close to 'perfect' as any restoration I have ever seen. And I can rest assured that his B-GT will also be superb. Perhaps we can convince him to post some pictures. He is a member here. Rui? regards, -rick Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From timfboston at aol.com Sun Dec 27 22:03:30 2009 From: timfboston at aol.com (timfboston at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 00:03:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver Message-ID: <8CC55923BA4CE6A-4424-4379D@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com> A drunk driver in a SUV went the wrong way on the MA Turnpike in Boston, MA hitting a 1978 MG Midget head on. The driver of the MG is still alive, but his passenger died. The drunk driver was uninjured. Tragic. Crash Photos show what is left of the Midget. I don't know how the driver is still alive. A safety tip for late night driving is to keep to the right lane (US) to avoid drunk/disoriented drivers heading the wrong way down the highway. http://www.thebostonchannel.com/news/22065596/detail.html From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Dec 28 06:05:38 2009 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 05:05:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver In-Reply-To: <8CC55923BA4CE6A-4424-4379D@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC55923BA4CE6A-4424-4379D@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <751902.62065.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Actually, the article said that the Midget driver was killed but the passenger survived.... Wonder if anyone in the local club knows who it was?? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: "timfboston at aol.com" To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, December 28, 2009 12:03:30 AM Subject: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver A drunk driver in a SUV went the wrong way on the MA Turnpike in Boston, MA hitting a 1978 MG Midget head on. The driver of the MG is still alive, but his passenger died. The drunk driver was uninjured. Tragic. Crash Photos show what is left of the Midget. I don't know how the driver is still alive. A safety tip for late night driving is to keep to the right lane (US) to avoid drunk/disoriented drivers heading the wrong way down the highway. http://www.thebostonchannel.com/news/22065596/detail.html Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From redscirocco at hotmail.com Mon Dec 28 06:46:03 2009 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 08:46:03 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver In-Reply-To: <751902.62065.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <8CC55923BA4CE6A-4424-4379D@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com>, <751902.62065.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: They also said it was an "MG Sports Coupe," which would have been more amusing if not for the serious situation. It must have been written by the same news people who call anything more modern than a blunderbuss an "automatic assault rifle." Very sorry to hear about this. -Mike Eldred (news editor, Deerfield Valley News) Wilmington, VT '54 MG TF '73 Midget > Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 05:05:38 -0800 > From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com > To: timfboston at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver > > Actually, the article said that the Midget driver was killed but the passenger survived.... Wonder if anyone in the local club > knows who it was?? > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ > twitter: dandibiase > > > > > > ________________________________ > From: "timfboston at aol.com" > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, December 28, 2009 12:03:30 AM > Subject: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver > > A drunk driver in a SUV went the wrong way on the MA Turnpike in Boston, MA > hitting a 1978 MG Midget head on. The driver of the MG is still alive, but > his passenger died. The drunk driver was uninjured. Tragic. > > Crash Photos show what is left of the Midget. I don't know how the driver is > still alive. A safety tip for late night driving is to keep to the right lane > (US) to avoid drunk/disoriented drivers heading the wrong way down the > highway. > > http://www.thebostonchannel.com/news/22065596/detail.html > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Dec 28 14:34:10 2009 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:34:10 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver References: <8CC55923BA4CE6A-4424-4379D@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com>, <751902.62065.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <90C40C92F5E340F999A27CC9EEAEBDAD@uw471de61b465c> Maybe the Midget had a hard top... I feel very sorry for the remaining family. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Eldred" To: ; ; Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 2:46 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver > They also said it was an "MG Sports Coupe," which would have been more > amusing > if not for the serious situation. It must have been written by the same > news > people who call anything more modern than a blunderbuss an "automatic > assault > rifle." > > > > Very sorry to hear about this. > > > > -Mike Eldred (news editor, Deerfield Valley News) > > Wilmington, VT > > '54 MG TF > > '73 Midget > >> Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 05:05:38 -0800 >> From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com >> To: timfboston at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver >> >> Actually, the article said that the Midget driver was killed but the > passenger survived.... Wonder if anyone in the local club >> knows who it was?? >> >> Dan D >> Central NJ USA >> '76 MGB Tourer >> '65 MGB Tourer (Project) >> NAMGBR #5-2328 >> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ >> http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ >> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ >> http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ >> twitter: dandibiase >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: "timfboston at aol.com" >> To: mgs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Mon, December 28, 2009 12:03:30 AM >> Subject: [Mgs] Wrong Way Driver >> >> A drunk driver in a SUV went the wrong way on the MA Turnpike in Boston, >> MA >> hitting a 1978 MG Midget head on. The driver of the MG is still alive, >> but >> his passenger died. The drunk driver was uninjured. Tragic. >> >> Crash Photos show what is left of the Midget. I don't know how the driver > is >> still alive. A safety tip for late night driving is to keep to the right > lane >> (US) to avoid drunk/disoriented drivers heading the wrong way down the >> highway. >> >> http://www.thebostonchannel.com/news/22065596/detail.html From eugeneb at nni.com Mon Dec 28 15:32:09 2009 From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 17:32:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Photo Re: Wrong Way Driver In-Reply-To: <90C40C92F5E340F999A27CC9EEAEBDAD@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: Crash scene photo attached. From the WBZ radio web site.. My condolences to the family of the deceased and my thoughts and prayers to the person in the hospital.... Gene Balinski 80 B --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] From mgb72 at airmail.net Mon Dec 28 15:49:23 2009 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:49:23 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] 2010 event In-Reply-To: <440FC852CA5A48F7B2561A91DA1A1FBF@ranteer.local> References: <826E26D805E24F0DA7AF553946945945@TOMPC> <440FC852CA5A48F7B2561A91DA1A1FBF@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <002601ca8810$012f45d0$038dd170$@net> It's in the TMGR newsletter. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 10:25 PM To: Mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] 2010 event did I imagine there is an mg event in september 2010? in georgia? more info, anyone??? thanks. Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Dec 28 17:28:49 2009 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:28:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Photo Re: Wrong Way Driver In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <547860.71978.qm@web112103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> --- On Mon, 12/28/09, Eugene Balinski wrote: > Crash scene photo attached. Not for long. :-) > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] From redscirocco at hotmail.com Mon Dec 28 20:48:37 2009 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:48:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overseas shipping Message-ID: I just thought I'd throw this out to everyone and see if anybody has experience shipping large items overseas. I would like to ship a Midget bonnet to someone in Australia. UPS and Fedex quote between $550 and $900 to ship it. Is there a reasonable way to do this (under $100 or so), or is overseas shipping just out of the question for large items? Any insight would be appreciated. -Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT '73 Midget '54 MG TF _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ From rmort at bezeqint.net Mon Dec 28 22:10:38 2009 From: rmort at bezeqint.net (R. Martin Rogovein) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 07:10:38 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Overseas shipping References: Message-ID: <001401ca8845$57be2300$ee2519ac@BIGMORT> if you're not in any hurry, you might want to look into ocean freight rather than air freight. it can take months and months, but it is a whole lot cheaper. R Martin 70 B roadster Herzliya, Israel. ___________________________________________________ Once upon a time, long long ago in a far away land where there were no cellular phones, people used to engage in an ancient cultural tradition called "making plans." According to the history books it was a primitive way of arranging to see each other in which one person would suggest a specific date, time, and location, and the other person would either agree, or suggest an alternative until they reached an agreement. And then, without any intervening phone calls or other communication, both parties would actually show up to the agreed upon location at the agreed upon hour. It's amazing, in that primitive culture, that anyone had any friends at all. --KBN ___________________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Eldred" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 5:48 AM Subject: [Mgs] Overseas shipping > I just thought I'd throw this out to everyone and see if anybody has > experience shipping large items overseas. > > I would like to ship a Midget bonnet to someone in Australia. UPS and Fedex > quote between $550 and $900 to ship it. Is there a reasonable way to do this > (under $100 or so), or is overseas shipping just out of the question for large > items? > > > > Any insight would be appreciated. > > > > -Mike Eldred > > Wilmington, VT > > '73 Midget > > '54 MG TF > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 29 06:52:25 2009 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 07:52:25 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Overseas shipping In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43AF7CD2DFE34672896D3A5A6652AE16@HomePC> Mike, a few years ago, I had a truck shipped from New Zealand to the U.S. The whole truck was only $1600 and $200 of that was from the South Island to the North Island and with a switch to a different ship there. The numbers you quote just for a bonnet seem pretty high. I can look up the shipping agent for you, if you want. Might be worth a try. Larry Daniels -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mike Eldred" Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:48 PM To: ; Subject: [Spridgets] Overseas shipping I just thought I'd throw this out to everyone and see if anybody has experience shipping large items overseas. I would like to ship a Midget bonnet to someone in Australia. UPS and Fedex quote between $550 and $900 to ship it. Is there a reasonable way to do this (under $100 or so), or is overseas shipping just out of the question for large items? Any insight would be appreciated. -Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT '73 Midget '54 MG TF _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Tue Dec 29 19:12:54 2009 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 19:12:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I have purchased a blast cabinet from Horrible Freight because the price was right and it will be handy during my latest restoration of a 64B. The question I have concerns the media. I have immediate need to clean up parts like rusty pedals, brake cover, air filters assemblies to think of a few and wonder about what sandblasting media would be best. HF was limited on selection and my initial research indicated the best blast media for the application would probably be a fine aluminum oxide abrasive. All they had was the 70 grit and the staff person thought I'd be better off with the out of stock 220 grit. For those of you with sandblasting equipment, what do you use or recommend for blast media? David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B From pryner at verizon.net Tue Dec 29 21:30:29 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 23:30:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: David, Recommend going to Northern Tool. Better media and pricing. I'm using medium aluminum oxide for general use in my HF blaster. Works well on most of the things you're talking about. Don't use it on any surface that you want to keep glass smooth though. It is great for paint prep and rust removal. Don't try to use sand in the cabinet. Wears out fast, doesn't cut rust very well and generally doesn't work well. Did you get an interior light for the cabinet? I don't have one but sure wish I had one. I'm using an external light which is barely adequate. The dust kicked up by the media makes it difficult to see in short time. Also be ready for media and dust leaking from your unit while in use. It is not air tight. Pete '66 B is my current project ----- Original Message ----- From: "Councill, David" To: "MG Digest (E-mail)" Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 9:12 PM Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting >I have purchased a blast cabinet from Horrible Freight because the price > was right and it will be handy during my latest restoration of a 64B. > The question I have concerns the media. I have immediate need to clean > up parts like rusty pedals, brake cover, air filters assemblies to think > of a few and wonder about what sandblasting media would be best. HF was > limited on selection and my initial research indicated the best blast > media for the application would probably be a fine aluminum oxide > abrasive. All they had was the 70 grit and the staff person thought I'd > be better off with the out of stock 220 grit. For those of you with > sandblasting equipment, what do you use or recommend for blast media? > > > > David Councill > > 64 B > > 67 BGT > > 72 B From PRNDL at sonic.net Wed Dec 30 00:18:35 2009 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 23:18:35 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: On Dec 29, 2009, at 6:12 PM, Councill, David wrote: > For those of you with > sandblasting equipment, what do you use or recommend for blast media? Mostly, you need a really big-arse air compressor. Most home shop compressors just don't cut it. You really need a 208V-230V 5-7 HP compressor to do anything but *very* small work. Anyway, I like to have both glass beads and aluminum oxide. Grainger sells them all in 5 gal buckets. There's also good information on blasting media at Eastwood. -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net Wed Dec 30 05:54:37 2009 From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 06:54:37 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> Hi Group, I have to replace my clutch flex lineon my 1973 MG and I have misplaced my workshop manual. Can anyone give me any suggestions on how to remove it? Thanks, Craig From barrie at look.ca Wed Dec 30 06:58:38 2009 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 08:58:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubilling s.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: David, I am having all my Aston parts "sand"blasted. The aluminium bits,which were quite robust, did not do well with the stuff they used for steel, gave a sort of a funny finish - but was soon fixed. For the next parts they used a proper aluminium "gind" and parts came out looking gorgeous. To me the grind would be very fine - 220 yes? However, I think that crushed walnut shells are used on aluminium bodys. I calculated that it was cheaper to batch up all my bits and give them to a professional shop. The advantage that I had was that they powder coat there too. To do all the bits, blasted and coated, will cost less than $1,000 - which is much less than machines, grit, electricity, powder coating, elastaplast, and trips to the hardware shop................but same amount of beer. At 09:12 PM 12/29/2009, Councill, David wrote: >I have purchased a blast cabinet from Horrible Freight because the price >was right and it will be handy during my latest restoration of a 64B. >The question I have concerns the media. I have immediate need to clean >up parts like rusty pedals, brake cover, air filters assemblies to think >of a few and wonder about what sandblasting media would be best. HF was >limited on selection and my initial research indicated the best blast >media for the application would probably be a fine aluminum oxide >abrasive. All they had was the 70 grit and the staff person thought I'd >be better off with the out of stock 220 grit. For those of you with >sandblasting equipment, what do you use or recommend for blast media? > > > >David Councill > >64 B > >67 BGT > >72 B > >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 8.5.431 / Virus Database: 270.14.123/2592 - Release Date: >12/29/09 07:47:00 Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From paul at ece.rochester.edu Wed Dec 30 07:21:33 2009 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 09:21:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: David, give a look at tptools.com. they are great when it comes to blasting. I have one of their homemade cabinets and have been using their "first choice" abrasive. $30 for 50lbs great stuff. I power it from my 5hp compressor with a 50 gal tank, that to is a home built unit. any ways ck them out they have a lot of useful infomation about blasting , types of abrasive, parts etc. As you use your to clean parts remember to wash the parts before you stat to paint. The abrasive will pit the surface some but after a few coats of primer, lite sand in between, and the same with paint coat , you should be very happy with the results. paul >I have purchased a blast cabinet from Horrible Freight because the price >was right and it will be handy during my latest restoration of a 64B. >The question I have concerns the media. I have immediate need to clean >up parts like rusty pedals, brake cover, air filters assemblies to think >of a few and wonder about what sandblasting media would be best. HF was >limited on selection and my initial research indicated the best blast >media for the application would probably be a fine aluminum oxide >abrasive. All they had was the 70 grit and the staff person thought I'd >be better off with the out of stock 220 grit. For those of you with >sandblasting equipment, what do you use or recommend for blast media? > -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From paul at ece.rochester.edu Wed Dec 30 07:29:43 2009 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 09:29:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line In-Reply-To: <00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> Message-ID: Craig, working from under the car, loosen the hose from the slave cylinder first . unbolt the slave from the side of the transmission, now remove the hose from the slave. unbolt the hose from the body fitting . Installation is the rev except you need to bleed the system last. paul >Hi Group, > >I have to replace my clutch flex lineon my 1973 MG and I have >misplaced my workshop manual. > >Can anyone give me any suggestions on how to remove it? > >Thanks, > >Craig >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 30 08:01:41 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 15:01:41 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> Message-ID: <63837FE30B3C438886DA87D92DC2C612@paul> You need to undo the nut that is on the end of the metal pipe, then do the large nut that secures the end of the flex hose to the chassis bracket. Both these are above the bracket and very awkward to get at, particularly if they are rusty. I recommend removing the engine! With those undone you can unscrew the hose from the slave cylinder. Refitting is the inevitable reverse of removal. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I have to replace my clutch flex lineon my 1973 MG and I have misplaced > my workshop manual. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Dec 30 09:12:23 2009 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 16:12:23 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> Message-ID: <6DDB634071EA44F3BAF996D328350BBD@paul> That's when you want to replace the slave, not the hose. There is nothing to be gained by disconnecting the slave from the release arm and bell-housing if you are only replacing the hose. With the chassis end of the hose released first it's easier to unscrew the hose from the slave when it is attached to the bell-housing, even more so when screwing the new hose back in, than the other way round. Incidentally there is nothing in the Leyland or Haynes manuals (mine at least) about replacing the hose, just the master and slave cylinders. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Craig, working from under the car, loosen the hose from the slave cylinder > first . unbolt the slave from the side of the transmission, now remove the > hose from the slave. ... From mgbob at juno.com Wed Dec 30 09:22:11 2009 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 11:22:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line Message-ID: <20091230.112511.2960.10.MGBOB@juno.com> Craig, To Paul's advice I add: disconnect the battery--it's too easy to have a wrench contact the starter terminal when you are cramped for space and working in the dark, and use a piece of plastic wrap under the MC filler cap. That slows the rate the fluid drains out. As you are planning to replace the hose, you can cut the old one to get it out of your way before starting to remove clutch cylinder. Bob On Wed, 30 Dec 2009 06:54:37 -0600 "Craig Straub" writes: > Hi Group, > > I have to replace my clutch flex lineon my 1973 MG and I have > misplaced my > workshop manual. > > Can anyone give me any suggestions on how to remove it? > > Thanks, > > Craig > ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=TozfXDV9i4a4ipWSGwn0vQAAJ1CFcZuYg3ZrSi-zVv-uUL-FAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA= From barneymg at mgaguru.com Wed Dec 30 09:30:15 2009 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 10:30:15 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line In-Reply-To: <00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> Message-ID: <193574.59360.qm@smtp116.sbc.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Disconnect the steel line first, then remove the nut securing the hose to the car body, then uscrew the hose from the cylinder, and no need to dismount the cylinder. You can dismount the cylinder first, but it's a couble extra steps if you don't really need to R&R the cylinder. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 06:54 AM 12/30/2009 -0600, Craig Straub wrote: >.... >I have to replace my clutch flex lineon my 1973 MG .... > >Can anyone give me any suggestions on how to remove it? >.... From ejrussell at mebtel.net Wed Dec 30 11:41:07 2009 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 13:41:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6235646C7F374939837F848D2C6407D5@EricJRussellPC> Browse the TP Tools web site. Good info on blast media, good prices, too. www.tptools.com I use either Al Oxide or TP Tools 'Skat Magic' (a recycled ground glass product). Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > For those of you with sandblasting equipment, what do you use or recommend > for blast media? > > David Councill From sales at justbrits.com Wed Dec 30 13:31:24 2009 From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:31:24 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <6235646C7F374939837F848D2C6407D5@EricJRussellPC> References: <6235646C7F374939837F848D2C6407D5@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <4B3BB89C.1070900@justbrits.com> << TP Tools 'Skat Magic' (a recycled ground glass product). >> BEST thing since sliced bread, Eric !! Which I told David in a PM yesterday !!!!! No David, I don't sell it !! << what do you use or recommend for blast media? >> Absolute BEST I have found in 20ish years is "Skate- Blast from Tip Tools !! LOW pressure !!! Stuff lasts FOREVER. ANY metal. And leaves and almost immediate paintable surface !! I have some odd bits hanging from front shop ceiling that I did 5 to 8 years ago & just rinsed with either Brake Cleaner [ Busty ] [which I DO sell ] or laq. thinner. I could 'finish' paint them tomorrow. Did I mention the stuff is FANTASTIC !!!! Did try other 'stuff' = sucks in comparison. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Wed Dec 30 15:49:59 2009 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 15:49:59 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4B3BB89C.1070900@justbrits.com> References: <6235646C7F374939837F848D2C6407D5@EricJRussellPC> <4B3BB89C.1070900@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D47E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> It does look like TP Tools is the way to go.... if you are on the East coast, USA. Unfortunately, I am in what they call "Zone 3" which means the shipping is more than the cost of the material at $35 for the $29 media. However, that still puts the cost a little less than what Grainger charges for their 5 gallon pails. Hard to say how that relates in size - water is a little over 40 pounds per 5 gallons and I'm guessing this stuff is probably somewhere between 1.2-1.5 times heavier than water so 50 lbs could be a bit less than 5 gallons (4 - 4 1/2 gallons?). I do like their website and the info and charts, very helpful. Low pressure is good too. I'm not sure how well my air compressor will do, it was the largest I could find for 120V (saving me having to rewire an outlet in my garage). But it still works fairly good (6 HP, large tank) for blowing out my underground sprinkler system every fall saving me having to rent one or pay someone to do it. So it has already paid for itself. Maybe I'll still go TP but delivery will be slow, probably a couple of weeks, not that I am in too big of a hurry. David -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sales at " Just Brits " Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 1:31 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] sandblasting << TP Tools 'Skat Magic' (a recycled ground glass product). >> BEST thing since sliced bread, Eric !! Which I told David in a PM yesterday !!!!! No David, I don't sell it !! << what do you use or recommend for blast media? >> Absolute BEST I have found in 20ish years is "Skate- Blast from Tip Tools !! LOW pressure !!! Stuff lasts FOREVER. ANY metal. And leaves and almost immediate paintable surface !! I have some odd bits hanging from front shop ceiling that I did 5 to 8 years ago & just rinsed with either Brake Cleaner [ Busty ] [which I DO sell ] or laq. thinner. I could 'finish' paint them tomorrow. Did I mention the stuff is FANTASTIC !!!! Did try other 'stuff' = sucks in comparison. From sales at justbrits.com Wed Dec 30 18:03:49 2009 From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 19:03:49 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D47E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <6235646C7F374939837F848D2C6407D5@EricJRussellPC> <4B3BB89C.1070900@justbrits.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D47E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <4B3BF875.5060203@justbrits.com> I WAS just gonna reply to David but realized there is info in the reply that might assist all of you, so HERE !!! << Maybe I'll still go TP but delivery will be slow, probably a couple of weeks, >> Mine come UPS and in 2 - 3 days, David. And TRUST me on this, for what you will be doing AT at a LOW pressure [20 -30 psi or less] Skat-Blast will MORE then outlast just the current project. Just a a note, after a couple minutes of 'blasting' take the item out of the box and inspect for 'pitting'. SHOULD be NONE!! Even when 'busy' I would guesstimate a MAX of starting a 2nd 50# bag per year. Seriously, I can do a "B" Valve Cover, rinse with "Busty" Brake Cleaner [or laq. thinner] and 'finish paint' right out of cabinet !! I have a couple items hanging from ceiling in Front Shop and I will try in next few day to get you [and List] some close-up pics and put-up on my site for all. I am fairly certain that the 948cc Frogeye Oil Pan has been hanging for five [5] years 'outta-da-box' and still has ZERO [even surface] rust !! A VERY good thing !!! And for all of you with either home-built or H.F. 'level' of boxes I will also try to get some pics of how I added a second INSIDE light to my TipTools 5 FOOT cabinet. Would also apply to even just a FIRST light !! Ya'll should also search the AutoX Spridgets Archives for HOW to set-up a shop-vac for these types of cabinets. Make your life WAY easier !!!! er, dat's just ONE of the reasons to pop for real McCoy and NOT the H.F. cheapies !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From riverside at southslope.net Wed Dec 30 20:13:27 2009 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:13:27 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0688A031@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00032C9680664A6880C58B1881FC8A91@DELL> Message-ID: <007101ca89c7$38fbbe40$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Hi Craig, For ease of access to the clutch hose body mounting, disconnect the battery and remove the starter. This gives you some wrench room. Disconnect the steel line from the hose. Remove the large nut and internal lock washer from the hose mounting. This is easiest if you have a short wrench . You will have to hold the hose fitting so the hose does not turn. Remove hose from slave cyl.. With the slave cylinder mounted, install the new hose to the cylinder. Don't forget the new copper sealing washer. Tighten firmly. Allowing the hose to bend naturally isert it into the body mounting and install the lock waser and nut. Do not tighten, but leave some "wiggle room" to move the fitting for alignment when starting the line fitting. Holding the hose with a wrench, first tighten the mounting nut then the line fitting. Do not allow the hose to twist as twisting could shorten its life. Don't try to save the old fluid. Flush with fresh fliud to remove contaminants and moisture from the system. Clutch and brake fluids should be changed every one to two years to prevent problems. After bleeding have some one push the pedal while you check the travel of the clutch cylinder pushrod. A good system will have 1/2 " to 5/8 " of movement of the pushrod at the pin. Cussing is allowed on this job. Ron Sanborn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Straub" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 6:54 AM Subject: [Mgs] Replacing clutch flex line > Hi Group, > > I have to replace my clutch flex lineon my 1973 MG and I have misplaced > my workshop manual. > > Can anyone give me any suggestions on how to remove it? > > Thanks, > > Craig > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ddarby at centurytel.net Wed Dec 30 20:24:38 2009 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:24:38 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D47E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <6235646C7F374939837F848D2C6407D5@EricJRussellPC><4B3BB89C.1070900@justbrits.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D47E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <63EDDAF3953D49C891866D4CA1376B5C@YOURF3E40984A8> David, Sounds like you're on the right track with the A/O. I don't have a cabinet blaster, but I have used coal slag with good results for general blasting with my pressure blaster. Has anyone used coal slag in a cabinet blaster? It is awfully cheap and is safer to deal with than some of the other media. David -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 4:50 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] sandblasting From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Dec 31 02:28:07 2009 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:28:07 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Midget @ Cisco Message-ID: Dear list, See Cisco has a nice Midget in their web presence... http://www.cisco.com/web/about/humannetwork/video/index.html?POSITION=sl&COUN TRY_SITE=us&CAMPAIGN=HN-Video&CREATIVE=Launch+Landing+Page&REFERRING_SITE=CIS CO%2ECOM+INDEX#/public safety/ Have a nice NY eve. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT From stargazer1 at cox.net Thu Dec 31 08:44:30 2009 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 07:44:30 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] sandblasting In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D47E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <6235646C7F374939837F848D2C6407D5@EricJRussellPC> <4B3BB89C.1070900@justbrits.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0593D47E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <4B3CC6DE.8040802@cox.net> Councill, David wrote: > It does look like TP Tools is the way to go.... if you are on the East > coast, USA. Unfortunately, I am in what they call "Zone 3" which means > the shipping is more than the cost of the material at $35 for the $29 > media. However, that still puts the cost a little less than what > Grainger charges for their 5 gallon pails. Hard to say how that relates > in size - water is a little over 40 pounds per 5 gallons and I'm > guessing this stuff is probably somewhere between 1.2-1.5 times heavier > than water so 50 lbs could be a bit less than 5 gallons (4 - 4 1/2 > gallons?). > You might want to check the phone book first. Sandblasting isn't exactly rocket science. We have a couple of places here in San Diego that sell specialized sandblasting media. I was able to get a 50lb bag of garnet sand for $15. They carried all sorts of other media for reasonable prices. Cheers, Dave Ambrose