From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  1 09:09:14 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 08:09:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Bee and Vee, Goodwood and Boavista
Message-ID: <841746.75142.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,

This lazy U.S. holiday morning I decided to clean up
my browser "favorites" as CNN droned on trying to make
hurricane Gustav sound as bad as possible.  In doing
so I came across Paul Hunt's "Bee & Vee" website link.
 Given that I'm just relaxing, sitting around in my
BVDs this morning (TMI!), I navigated Paul's site
carefully.  It reminded me of my visits to the
Goodwood Festival of Speed.  What an INCREDIBLE event
that is and what a nice job Paul has done of
documenting it.  Any of you who have not visited his
site, please do so for a motorsport treat:
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/  Can't wait to go back. 
For those unfamiliar, this is an event where the
public can get up-close and personal with cars and
drivers - new, old and antique.  Brilliant.

Next year I hope to participate in the Boavista
charity event in Porto, Portugal.  Here's a look at
the historic circuit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circuito_da_Boavista

Our own listmember, Rui Gigante, is an organizer of
the 2009 Boavista event.  Please drop him a line, here
on the list, if you're interesting in attending. 

Now if I can figure a way to go to Goodwood AND
Boavista next year...

regards,

rick

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Sep  1 12:24:10 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 11:24:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Disposing of C40 generators (22715 H)
Message-ID: <40b437200809011124w4ac58093nbbd7ccc6b4b0c4c1@mail.gmail.com>

I have a couple of C40-type generators in my garage. Since they don't
fit an MGA, I have no use for them. Any suggestions on disposing of
these other than trash?

If anyone is interested, I will send them for the actual cost of
shipping and a suitable box.

Regards,
Simon

From WLHoss at aol.com  Mon Sep  1 20:09:31 2008
From: WLHoss at aol.com (WLHoss at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 22:09:31 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA
Message-ID: <d2a.31185614.35edfa5b@aol.com>

Hi,
I have a Facet Fuel Pump 
(_http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps_ 
(http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps) )  in my 1959 MGA that has finally given up the ghost.  My question is  
should I replace it with the same type or is there a better choice?  I've  had 
the car for about 7 years and it didn't look new even then.
 
Thanks for any help,
                               Bill Hoss



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  2 07:41:29 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 06:41:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Back working...
Message-ID: <804590.31486.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Good deal, Rick - did you say that yoiu'd taken it out for a drive? How'd it run?

I haven't done anything with my '76 B since early last week, when I got the battery charged and checked out. No time - was
getting my oldest son ready for college (we moved him in this past Sunday). So I'm hoping to get back to it a bit this week, I
need to check the ground strap before I do anything else, which, of course, means getting the car off the ground (ummm, no
pun intended!) again.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: MGS <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:09:04 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Back working...

Hey Gang,

Spent a little quality time with the MGB project
yesterday.  Got the new tail lights installed after
doing a nice paint touch-up.  Started installing the
reversing lights but discovered a damaged lamp.  Will
replace them both.

Today, in addition to finishing the reversing lights,
I hope to reinstall the brake light switch and get
that circuit working again.  Doing so will bring the
car into spec for Texas safety inspection.  (Don't
have to do emissions testing on old cars here.)

regards,

rick
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Tue Sep  2 19:19:06 2008
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 21:19:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEENCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Hello everyone,

Subject line tells the story. Take a right hand corner at more than a
walking pace and the car will stumble, stumble, stumble, and stall in a few
seconds. It seems like fuel starvation. However, the only way to restart the
car quickly is to hold the throttle to the floor and crank for 10 to 15
seconds. This feels like flooding. It always seems to do this at a place
where you don't want to or can't fiddle with a stalled car.

The car is a 74 B with a 797AE engine and HIF4 carbs AUD 550. The dizzy is
the US replacement 45D unit. The tune is reasonably good. It generally
starts superbly when warm and has always been a bit temperamental when
starting cold.

The most likely culprit would seem to be the carb floats. My brother the
engineer rebuilt the carbs when he had it. I believe that he put in "Grose
Jets." I have no idea if these are any good or not. We have had a dozen LBCs
in the extended family since 1970 and Mike knows more than I do.

The car has been doing this semi-regularly for the past couple of years. Is
it relevant that I have plumbed in a charcoal canister to get rid of the
fuel vapors that were giving me headaches?

Any helpful suggestions would be much appreciated.

Many Thanks,

Eric in Florida

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Tue Sep  2 21:42:24 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 23:42:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEENCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <20080902234224.LDKK8.125987.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net>

Eric, I just went through something similar to what you're experiencing, I replaced my Grose Jet with the standard jets and the car has been running fine, I don't have the charcoal canister, but I've heard tell that sometimes the line gets plugged and that can have an adverse effect, I would check that for obstruction, just my two cents worth.

 , 
---- Eric Markley <ericemarkley at bellsouth.net> wrote: 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> Subject line tells the story. Take a right hand corner at more than a
> walking pace and the car will stumble, stumble, stumble, and stall in a few
> seconds. It seems like fuel starvation. However, the only way to restart the
> car quickly is to hold the throttle to the floor and crank for 10 to 15
> seconds. This feels like flooding. It always seems to do this at a place
> where you don't want to or can't fiddle with a stalled car.
> 
> The car is a 74 B with a 797AE engine and HIF4 carbs AUD 550. The dizzy is
> the US replacement 45D unit. The tune is reasonably good. It generally
> starts superbly when warm and has always been a bit temperamental when
> starting cold.
> 
> The most likely culprit would seem to be the carb floats. My brother the
> engineer rebuilt the carbs when he had it. I believe that he put in "Grose
> Jets." I have no idea if these are any good or not. We have had a dozen LBCs
> in the extended family since 1970 and Mike knows more than I do.
> 
> The car has been doing this semi-regularly for the past couple of years. Is
> it relevant that I have plumbed in a charcoal canister to get rid of the
> fuel vapors that were giving me headaches?
> 
> Any helpful suggestions would be much appreciated.
> 
> Many Thanks,
> 
> Eric in Florida
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as 1971mgb at cox.net
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep  3 04:23:59 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 11:23:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEENCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <007a01c90db3$040c6cc0$0200a8c0@Three>

What does the tach do?  If that continues to register while the engine is
turning from the forward motion of the car then it probably is fuel but could
be HT.  If the tach is dropping to zero when it happens then it is ignition
LT, quite possible that a poor connection is breaking or possibly shorting on
the one bend.  Check the distributor cap, rotor, HT leads and plug caps for
condition and security in case it is HT.

Because the float chambers are presumably full I wouldn't expect an instant
response of stumbling and stalling as soon as you make the turn certainly not
from fuel starvation, and probably not from flooding, although the restart
requirements do indicate flooding which is normally accompanied by a strong
fuel smell.  It's possible debris in the float chamber is moving around and
blocking something on right-hand bends, although I would expect that to affect
HSs more than HIFs, and only one carb, same as flooding.  Grose jets used to
be recommended, but current wisdom is that the quality and performance of
those has deteriorated whilst the viton-tipped standard valves have improved
and are now much better.

A 74 should have the anti-runon valve and again a wiring problem could be
causing that to operate when it shouldn't.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Subject line tells the story. Take a right hand corner at more than a
  walking pace and the car will stumble, stumble, stumble, and stall in a few
  seconds.

From derek at vandivere.net  Wed Sep  3 04:56:28 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (Derek Vandivere)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 06:56:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners
In-Reply-To: <007a01c90db3$040c6cc0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEENCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
	<007a01c90db3$040c6cc0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <4c740bb601d5e6bb341a64ccf83eceb4@vandivere.net>

My '78 used to do the same thing whenever I went around rotaries
(roundabouts, if you prefer). Problem went away when I replaced the
distributor cap and leads.

Got the B back with its new engine - hooray! Unfortunately, it's just in
time for summer to end here in Holland.

Derek

On Wed, 3 Sep 2008 11:23:59 +0100, "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> What does the tach do?  If that continues to register while the engine is
> turning from the forward motion of the car then it probably is fuel but
> could
> be HT.  If the tach is dropping to zero when it happens then it is
> ignition
> LT, quite possible that a poor connection is breaking or possibly
shorting
> on
> the one bend.  Check the distributor cap, rotor, HT leads and plug caps
> for
> condition and security in case it is HT.
> 
> Because the float chambers are presumably full I wouldn't expect an
> instant
> response of stumbling and stalling as soon as you make the turn certainly
> not
> from fuel starvation, and probably not from flooding, although the
restart
> requirements do indicate flooding which is normally accompanied by a
> strong
> fuel smell.  It's possible debris in the float chamber is moving around
> and
> blocking something on right-hand bends, although I would expect that to
> affect
> HSs more than HIFs, and only one carb, same as flooding.  Grose jets used
> to
> be recommended, but current wisdom is that the quality and performance of
> those has deteriorated whilst the viton-tipped standard valves have
> improved
> and are now much better.
> 
> A 74 should have the anti-runon valve and again a wiring problem could be
> causing that to operate when it shouldn't.
> 
> PaulH.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   Subject line tells the story. Take a right hand corner at more than a
>   walking pace and the car will stumble, stumble, stumble, and stall in a
> few
>   seconds.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as derek at vandivere.net
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Sep  3 09:56:45 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 10:56:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEENCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFAEENCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080903105507.03b6da38@nosimport.com>

At 08:19 PM 9/2/2008, Eric Markley wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>
>Subject line tells the story. Take a right hand corner at more than a
>walking pace and the car will stumble, stumble, stumble, and stall in a few
>seconds.

==============
I had that problem for a while, until I noticed my coil had come 
loose and was flopping around in the fender well, and would short 
only on right handers.

Peter

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  3 11:37:40 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 10:37:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Mgs] LAST CALL - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7,
 2008
Message-ID: <7656155.1220463460260.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

WEBSITE:
         www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008
The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th

Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at
Sierra
Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again
gather
in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have a show car?
Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress
are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is essentially the old Palo
Alto
British Meet in a new location. We are also expecting another great display of
automotive
oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for
free.

SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th

Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be
handled
by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their
doors
on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast Herb Gibson's Jazz Orchestra
will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There is no
preregistration.
There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all entrants will receive a
commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate.

SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th

The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse
(the
same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea.
Itbs
no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them.
We
will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM.  A detailed map will be
provided.
The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking
tyres
and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon.

Call for information:  310-392-6605
e-mail:  <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>

DIRECTIONS:

The Brisbane Marina is located just east of the Bayshore Freeway
(101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just
take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the
Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site.

LODGING ALTERNATIVES:

BEST DEAL! Right at the Brisbane  Marina. The Radisson, very upscale, business
type
hotel with gourmet restaurant. We have special British Car Meet rate of $109
per
night, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway,
Brisbane,
phone 415-467-4400. Ask for the British Car  eet rates.

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Wed Sep  3 14:01:52 2008
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 16:01:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFEEEOCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Greetings All:

I appreciate the suggestions from all who responded but have not had much
time to work on the B today, as the battery in the Buick decided to fail
without warning. Oh well, it is fixed now.

I did pull the hoses off of the charcoal canister and start the B. Startd up
right away and idled nicely cold at 800 rpm. Much better than in the past. I
will check to see if the canister seems to be plugged.

It does not have an anti-run-on valve installed.

The ignition cables all seem to be secure. The coil is nearly new. The dizzy
has less than 10,000 miles of use.

As the panel lights only emit the faintest suggestion of illumination, I
could not observe the tach last night. When the car does this, my primary
concern is coasting to a safe spot where I won't be a traffic hazard and no
one is liable to run inro my car. But as the car is stumbling and stalling
it feels as though it is continuing to fire the plugs.

There is a VERY strong smell of fuel when I get the car restarted.

I have had the car since 1995 and it has only done this in the past few
years. Since I added the charcoal canister during this period, it seemed
reasonable to think that might be part of the problem.  Post hoc ergo
propter hoc is not always a true statement, however.

I installed two new fuel filters when I replaced the rubber fuel lines.
There may be sediment in the tank that is blocking fuel flow from the tank
or within the carburetors. The filter by the carbs is still nice and clean.

I believe that the canister that I have is the later type that can not be
disasembled and refurbished. It came from a friend who frequently is given
derelict British cars as gifts. He prefers Triumphs to MGs but he does have
a very rusty 76 Midget that might have some useful parts.

I'd like to eliminate other possibilities before taking the carbs off of the
car and tearing them apart. If it comes to that, Ihave the Haynes SU manual
and MGB manual plus the Bentley manuals and the BL workshop manual that
looks like a Bentley manual.

Thanks again to all,

Eric
Jacksonville, FL

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep  3 20:03:30 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 19:03:30 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFEEEOCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <C4E49002.1A995%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

This is why I don't install a filter down by the pump. If it gets gunked up,
you don't see it.

Japanese cars have fuel filters in all kinds of stupid inaccessible
locations, like under the rear seat. I believe they should be under the
hood, in plain sight, where you can keep an eye on them.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/3/08 1:01 PM, Eric Markley at ericemarkley at bellsouth.net wrote:

> I installed two new fuel filters when I replaced the rubber fuel lines.
> There may be sediment in the tank that is blocking fuel flow from the tank
> or within the carburetors. The filter by the carbs is still nice and clean.

From macgroup at comcast.net  Wed Sep  3 21:20:29 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 20:20:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA
In-Reply-To: <d2a.31185614.35edfa5b@aol.com>
References: <d2a.31185614.35edfa5b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A27782258F5744229B9EAE053708FC7E@StusLaptopPC>

The Facet pump shown here works great, and it's a lot cheaper than the one
you linked to:  http://tinyurl.com/6zqlh6 

It's the same one Moss sells for more, but they include proper fittings for
MGs. 

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WLHoss at aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 7:10 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA

Hi,
I have a Facet Fuel Pump 
(_http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps_ 
(http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps) )  in my
1959 MGA that has finally given up the ghost.  My question is  
should I replace it with the same type or is there a better choice?  I've
had 
the car for about 7 years and it didn't look new even then.
 
Thanks for any help,
                               Bill Hoss



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Wed Sep  3 21:43:54 2008
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 23:43:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
In-Reply-To: <C4E49002.1A995%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFOEEPCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Hello Max,

You have a good point; the filter between the tank and pump is neither easy
to see nor to get to. If one has a new or nearly new tank, it seems
reasonable to not put a filter there. The filter before the carbs is clear
plastic, however. If the filter by the tank is plugged, I would think that
the filter by the carbs would show little or no fuel and alert you to a fuel
delivery problem. With a car that is 34 years old, I rather like the
redundant filters to reduce the chances of dirt and rust getting into the
carbs.

Your helpful thought does help me, though. If the engine should stall again,
I should check for an absence of fuel in the filter by the carbs. I should
have thought of that before.

Thanks!

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Max Heim
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 10:04 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II


This is why I don't install a filter down by the pump. If it gets gunked up,
you don't see it.

Japanese cars have fuel filters in all kinds of stupid inaccessible
locations, like under the rear seat. I believe they should be under the
hood, in plain sight, where you can keep an eye on them.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 9/3/08 1:01 PM, Eric Markley at ericemarkley at bellsouth.net wrote:

> I installed two new fuel filters when I replaced the rubber fuel lines.
> There may be sediment in the tank that is blocking fuel flow from the tank
> or within the carburetors. The filter by the carbs is still nice and
clean.
You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive
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4:13 PM

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  4 01:54:06 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 08:54:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFEEEOCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <00b501c90e64$4dcf27b0$0200a8c0@Three>

Actually it is the Bentley manual that looks like the Leyland manual, as the
former is a reprint of the latter.

Now we know there is a strong fuel smell as well it points even more to
flooding, which would eliminate anything causing fuel starvation such as
sediment in the tank or lines, especially as the filter is clear.  Also
because of the float chambers it would have to be a very loooooong right-hand
bend to get starvation to affect the engine.  But the other odd thing is that
unless both carbs are affected it really should start easier than that
especially when hot, and the only thing that could flood both carbs is if the
pump suddenly started pumping at significantly higher pressure.  What pump do
you have?  If it were only one carb then I'd expect it to restart easier than
that, firing on two cylinders, even though the carbs are cylinders have the
interconnecting balance pipe.

OTOH if it were an *electrical* i.e. ignition fault taking several seconds to
clear, then cranking all that time with the throttle wide open *would* put
unburnt fuel in the exhaust and give a strong smell.  I appreciate it normally
happens when you don't want to be left hanging around, but for the purposes of
diagnosis I'd be taking it round deserted car parks to see if I could
reproduce it, and hence have more time for diagnosis, like leaving bit for a
minute or so to see if it fires up right away after a delay.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----


  There is a VERY strong smell of fuel when I get the car restarted.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  4 02:00:22 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 09:00:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFOEEPCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <00b701c90e64$4e1de3f0$0200a8c0@Three>

FWIW fuel filters up by the carb can show anything between almost empty and
completely full, and change between the two or anything else in between over
short and long periods, and not have affect running.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  ... I would think that
  the filter by the carbs would show little or no fuel and alert you to a
fuel
  delivery problem...

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Thu Sep  4 06:30:55 2008
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 08:30:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pump Prime    HELP
In-Reply-To: <010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <B678FF9E-B5C6-47DE-8F18-4483469817CC@tampabay.rr.com>
	<010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <a06230910c4e58531d988@[128.151.164.253]>

Hello,  Ok , never had this problem in 5 engine rebuilds. this was 
not even a full rebuild. put in a new oil pump when  the engine was 
out .  timing chain, sprockets, tensioner, full head work, and rings. 
the right gasket on the oil pump .  cranked it last night , no spark 
plugs in, and no pressure as of yet. other than a lot of oil in the 
pump body when installed I have never had to reprime the pump to get 
some pressure. any ideas here will be great. thanks
>paul


-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  4 06:42:41 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 05:42:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pump Prime    HELP
In-Reply-To: <a06230910c4e58531d988@[128.151.164.253]>
Message-ID: <788836.41396.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm paid to do right-angle science.  That's what we used to call thinking outside of the box.  My first thought is to ask; Is the pressure gauge working properly?  If it is an electric gauge you might want to check connections and even measure the resistance at the sender with an ohmmeter, before and as you crank.

regards,

rick

--- On Thu, 9/4/08, Paul Osborne <paul at ece.rochester.edu> wrote:

> From: Paul Osborne <paul at ece.rochester.edu>
> Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pump Prime    HELP
> To: Mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, September 4, 2008, 7:30 AM
> Hello,  Ok , never had this problem in 5 engine rebuilds.
> this was 
> not even a full rebuild. put in a new oil pump when  the
> engine was 
> out .  timing chain, sprockets, tensioner, full head work,
> and rings. 
> the right gasket on the oil pump .  cranked it last night ,
> no spark 
> plugs in, and no pressure as of yet. other than a lot of
> oil in the 
> pump body when installed I have never had to reprime the
> pump to get 
> some pressure. any ideas here will be great. thanks
> >paul
> 
> 
> -- 
> Paul Osborne
> University of Rochester
> Engineering & Technical Services
> Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
> 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
> Rochester, New York 14627
> 585-275-5226
> paul at ece.rochester.edu
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep  4 07:13:17 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 09:13:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
Message-ID: <20080904.091530.880.41.MGBOB@juno.com>

Paul,
   Here is an odd situation that happened to a club member this weekend:
        MGA engine, rebuilt, with 3-4 hours engine time since rebuild.
        Ran fine until last week.
        Engine stumbled, would not rev, would not idle
        Stalled regularly
        Could not be driven-insufficient power to move the car
        Strong smell of gasoline at engine restart
        SU Pump working fine
        Fuel filter at carbs full of clean fuel.
        Carb venturis were wet with gasoline
        Spark plugs were wet with gasoline
        Strong spark when plugs were rested on engine block
        Even compression
        
   Problem:  brand-new Grose Jets.  Dry float bowls.  
Bob



On Thu, 4 Sep 2008 08:54:06 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
> Actually it is the Bentley manual that looks like the Leyland manual, 
> as the
> former is a reprint of the latter.
> 
> Now we know there is a strong fuel smell as well it points even more 
> to
> flooding, which would eliminate anything causing fuel starvation 
> such as
> sediment in the tank or lines, especially as the filter is clear.  
> Also
> because of the float chambers it would have to be a very loooooong 
> right-hand
> bend to get starvation to affect the engine.  But the other odd 
> thing is that
> unless both carbs are affected it really should start easier than 
> that
> especially when hot, and the only thing that could flood both carbs 
> is if the
> pump suddenly started pumping at significantly higher pressure.  
> What pump do
> you have?  If it were only one carb then I'd expect it to restart 
> easier than
> that, firing on two cylinders, even though the carbs are cylinders 
> have the
> interconnecting balance pipe.
> 
> OTOH if it were an *electrical* i.e. ignition fault taking several 
> seconds to
> clear, then cranking all that time with the throttle wide open 
> *would* put
> unburnt fuel in the exhaust and give a strong smell.  I appreciate 
> it normally
> happens when you don't want to be left hanging around, but for the 
> purposes of
> diagnosis I'd be taking it round deserted car parks to see if I 
> could
> reproduce it, and hence have more time for diagnosis, like leaving 
> bit for a
> minute or so to see if it fires up right away after a delay.
> 
> PaulH.
____________________________________________________________
Click here for a free directory of employee development and training solutions.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l7kPNx1U1W2Jr6Snp7aVmlJ6HCL16IrGq543A9tHkeVufel/

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Thu Sep  4 07:48:29 2008
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 09:48:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
In-Reply-To: <00b501c90e64$4dcf27b0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFEEFBCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Hello Paul,

You are confirming my thoughts from last night. Find a empty parking lot
with very little traffic and drive the car until I can get the problem to
happen again. Then examine the fuel filter and eliminate fuel starvation as
a cause. That leaves electrical issues, flooding, or other carb issues.

My brother replaced the fuel pump when he had the car. The pump is a
Pierburg electronic fuel pump. It appears to be very similar to an SU pump
but does not have points. The next logical question to answer is how much
fuel pressure does it produce. I will check that. Next, what might the fuel
pump be doing while the car is in the process of stalling.

When the problem occurred one time last year, I let the car sit for a 30-45
minutes while having lunch and the car restarted normally. That was a very
hot summer day in the 90s (or 30s) and my first thought was vapor lock. As
the problem has happened again with lower ambient and vehicle  temperatures,
I think vapor lock is less likely.

Time to find that empty parking lot.
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
  Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 3:54 AM
  To: Eric Markley; MG LIST
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II


  Actually it is the Bentley manual that looks like the Leyland manual, as
the former is a reprint of the latter.

  Now we know there is a strong fuel smell as well it points even more to
flooding, which would eliminate anything causing fuel starvation such as
sediment in the tank or lines, especially as the filter is clear.  Also
because of the float chambers it would have to be a very loooooong
right-hand bend to get starvation to affect the engine.  But the other odd
thing is that unless both carbs are affected it really should start easier
than that especially when hot, and the only thing that could flood both
carbs is if the pump suddenly started pumping at significantly higher
pressure.  What pump do you have?  If it were only one carb then I'd expect
it to restart easier than that, firing on two cylinders, even though the
carbs are cylinders have the interconnecting balance pipe.

  OTOH if it were an *electrical* i.e. ignition fault taking several seconds
to clear, then cranking all that time with the throttle wide open *would*
put unburnt fuel in the exhaust and give a strong smell.  I appreciate it
normally happens when you don't want to be left hanging around, but for the
purposes of diagnosis I'd be taking it round deserted car parks to see if I
could reproduce it, and hence have more time for diagnosis, like leaving bit
for a minute or so to see if it fires up right away after a delay.

  PaulH.

    ----- Original Message -----


    There is a VERY strong smell of fuel when I get the car restarted.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  4 07:41:48 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 14:41:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
References: <20080904.091530.880.41.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <011c01c90e95$4a9f2730$0200a8c0@Three>

Hmmm, I have to say that seems mutually exclusive - dry float bowls but carb
venturis and plugs wet with fuel.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
          Carb venturis were wet with gasoline
          Spark plugs were wet with gasoline
  ...
     Problem:  brand-new Grose Jets.  Dry float bowls.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  4 07:46:39 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 14:46:39 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pump Prime    HELP
References: <B678FF9E-B5C6-47DE-8F18-4483469817CC@tampabay.rr.com><010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three>
	<a06230910c4e58531d988@[128.151.164.253]>
Message-ID: <011d01c90e95$4ac06ad0$0200a8c0@Three>

Gasket the right way round?  I've not done a 4-cylinder oil pump but it is
standing practice with the V8 to fill the pump body with Vaseline on
reassembly (mind you, they also have the benefit that you can put a drill on
the end of the pump shaft when the distributor is removed so you don't even
have to crank the engine!).  Try injecting oil down the outlet from the rear
of the block to the cooler.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----

  the right gasket on the oil pump .  cranked it last night , no spark
  plugs in, and no pressure as of yet.

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  4 08:25:50 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 09:25:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA
References: <d2a.31185614.35edfa5b@aol.com>
	<A27782258F5744229B9EAE053708FC7E@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <9AB67DD517CB4617BDB16DCF3C884CE2@Larry>

Or you can get them here even cheaper:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php


Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup "Miss Pent" Ute  

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup at comcast.net>
To: <WLHoss at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA


The Facet pump shown here works great, and it's a lot cheaper than the one
you linked to:  http://tinyurl.com/6zqlh6 

It's the same one Moss sells for more, but they include proper fittings for
MGs. 

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WLHoss at aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 7:10 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA

Hi,
I have a Facet Fuel Pump 
(_http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps_ 
(http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps) )  in my
1959 MGA that has finally given up the ghost.  My question is  
should I replace it with the same type or is there a better choice?  I've
had 
the car for about 7 years and it didn't look new even then.
 
Thanks for any help,
                               Bill Hoss



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  4 09:34:12 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 10:34:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <337F1101-3407-4537-B1AC-9109B38D4D16@sbcglobal.net>

Bob are you sure you have enough fuel pressure?

If your plugs are wet with fuel but it is not firing you likely have  
the wrong fuel air mixture.
If your bowls are empty maybe the fuel is getting sucked out faster  
than they are being filled.

Just a guess.

Mike

On Sep 4, 2008, at 8:48 AM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 09:13:17 -0400
> From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
> To: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <20080904.091530.880.41.MGBOB at juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Paul,
>    Here is an odd situation that happened to a club member this  
> weekend:
>         MGA engine, rebuilt, with 3-4 hours engine time since rebuild.
>         Ran fine until last week.
>         Engine stumbled, would not rev, would not idle
>         Stalled regularly
>         Could not be driven-insufficient power to move the car
>         Strong smell of gasoline at engine restart
>         SU Pump working fine
>         Fuel filter at carbs full of clean fuel.
>         Carb venturis were wet with gasoline
>         Spark plugs were wet with gasoline
>         Strong spark when plugs were rested on engine block
>         Even compression
>
>    Problem:  brand-new Grose Jets.  Dry float bowls.
> Bob

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep  4 09:28:33 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:28:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
Message-ID: <20080904.113455.880.47.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Yes, I thought you would find that peculiar.
Bob


On Thu, 4 Sep 2008 14:41:48 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
Hmmm, I have to say that seems mutually exclusive - dry float bowls but
carb venturis and plugs wet with fuel.

PaulH.
----- Original Message ----- 
        Carb venturis were wet with gasoline
        Spark plugs were wet with gasoline
...
   Problem:  brand-new Grose Jets.  Dry float bowls.  
____________________________________________________________
Click to get affordable Health Insurance.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3B8jXqxkTQbcriiHAUGTHZmljgFgOg2IH0Hq53VXNpJjpj/

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep  4 09:39:34 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:39:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 4
Message-ID: <20080904.113942.880.50.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Mike,
   Not my car, but what I saw was plenty of pressure and volume at the
disconnected hose. Yet the plugs were wet and there was the smell of
gasoline.  
   He called me last night to tell of the Grose-Jet discovery.
   What we are thinking is that there must have been some little amount
of fuel getting into the bowl, enough to be sucked up and into the engine
but not rich enough in mix to burn.   
   On Sunday it spit back a couple of times, which was what caused us to
double-check the timing, never suspecting that it could be the new
Grose-Jets. 
Bob


On Thu, 4 Sep 2008 10:34:12 -0500 Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
Bob are you sure you have enough fuel pressure?  


If your plugs are wet with fuel but it is not firing you likely have the
wrong fuel air mixture. 
If your bowls are empty maybe the fuel is getting sucked out faster than
they are being filled.


Just a guess.  


Mike
____________________________________________________________
Click to get a free auto insurance quotes from top companies.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2nsruok0Dvhh7JgV6aVBZ7a0NNtnHUDM6lB88kZCwk5UXr/

From ricjohnsondm at msn.com  Thu Sep  4 09:51:48 2008
From: ricjohnsondm at msn.com (Ric Johnson)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 10:51:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pumps
In-Reply-To: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY119-W27560B6FB1147EF200D7E9C5590@phx.gbl>

Regarding the Facet/Purolator pumps I've used them for years on my MGBs. I'll
note a couple of things though; the one Bill llinks to is actually a bit
higher pressure than you want and the one Stuart links to is the correct pump
but is available even cheaper from Aircraft Spruce. They use them in
ultralight and homebuilt airplanes!  They have the best price I've seen by a
significant margin, and I've had no problem with the fittings supplied with
it. Here's the URL:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php

The pump you want is the 40105 and it's only $29.75.  No personal connection,
just a happy customer.

Ric Johnson
Des Moines, Iowa
Webmaster www.iowabritishccarclub.com
'71 MGB, '74 MGB-GT, '75 MGB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep  4 09:59:02 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 16:59:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 4
References: <20080904.113942.880.50.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <016501c90ea7$2a890580$0200a8c0@Three>

But how could that cause a strong fuel smell and a wet carb throat and plugs,
all of which are symptoms of flooding, not starvation?
  ----- Original Message -----
     What we are thinking is that there must have been some little amount
  of fuel getting into the bowl, enough to be sucked up and into the engine
  but not rich enough in mix to burn.

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  4 10:09:03 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:09:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 4
In-Reply-To: <016501c90ea7$2a890580$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <20080904.113942.880.50.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<016501c90ea7$2a890580$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <5E5528C7-D552-4F5C-86D1-3F1E491663E5@sbcglobal.net>

Too lean to ignite doesn't mean the total absence of fuel.




On Sep 4, 2008, at 10:59 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> But how could that cause a strong fuel smell and a wet carb throat  
> and plugs, all of which are symptoms of flooding, not starvation?
> ----- Original Message -----
>    What we are thinking is that there must have been some little  
> amount
> of fuel getting into the bowl, enough to be sucked up and into the  
> engine
> but not rich enough in mix to burn.

From macgroup at comcast.net  Thu Sep  4 10:26:28 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 09:26:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA
In-Reply-To: <9AB67DD517CB4617BDB16DCF3C884CE2@Larry>
References: <d2a.31185614.35edfa5b@aol.com>
	<A27782258F5744229B9EAE053708FC7E@StusLaptopPC>
	<9AB67DD517CB4617BDB16DCF3C884CE2@Larry>
Message-ID: <37DD0F5609DE47BD82B57E27766FD596@StusLaptopPC>

Wow, who would have thought an aircraft parts supplier would be the
cheapest.  I guess I can rely on this pump if people put them in airplanes!

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Daniels [mailto:ladaniels at sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 7:26 AM
To: Stuart MacMillan; WLHoss at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA

Or you can get them here even cheaper:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php


Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup "Miss Pent" Ute  

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup at comcast.net>
To: <WLHoss at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA


The Facet pump shown here works great, and it's a lot cheaper than the one
you linked to:  http://tinyurl.com/6zqlh6 

It's the same one Moss sells for more, but they include proper fittings for
MGs. 

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WLHoss at aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 7:10 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA

Hi,
I have a Facet Fuel Pump 
(_http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps_ 
(http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps) )  in my
1959 MGA that has finally given up the ghost.  My question is  
should I replace it with the same type or is there a better choice?  I've
had 
the car for about 7 years and it didn't look new even then.
 
Thanks for any help,
                               Bill Hoss



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  4 10:28:55 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:28:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pumps
References: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<BAY119-W27560B6FB1147EF200D7E9C5590@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002301c90eab$83f6dd00$6515a8c0@Ranteer.local>

that's the same pump they sell locally at a flaps, for $20 more!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ric Johnson" <ricjohnsondm at msn.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pumps


> Regarding the Facet/Purolator pumps I've used them for years on my MGBs. 
> I'll
> note a couple of things though; the one Bill llinks to is actually a bit
> higher pressure than you want and the one Stuart links to is the correct 
> pump
> but is available even cheaper from Aircraft Spruce. They use them in
> ultralight and homebuilt airplanes!  They have the best price I've seen by 
> a
> significant margin, and I've had no problem with the fittings supplied 
> with
> it. Here's the URL:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php
>
> The pump you want is the 40105 and it's only $29.75.  No personal 
> connection,
> just a happy customer.
>
> Ric Johnson
> Des Moines, Iowa
> Webmaster www.iowabritishccarclub.com
> '71 MGB, '74 MGB-GT, '75 MGB 

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  4 10:38:56 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:38:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA
References: <d2a.31185614.35edfa5b@aol.com>
	<A27782258F5744229B9EAE053708FC7E@StusLaptopPC>
	<9AB67DD517CB4617BDB16DCF3C884CE2@Larry>
	<37DD0F5609DE47BD82B57E27766FD596@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <97A5E35347B8418FAD6B25DB1B0313C2@Larry>

One other note on the Facet pumps is that they can be a bit loud.  As Peter 
C from World Wide Auto Parts suggests, you can use an MGB transmission mount 
413-050 to isolate the pump from the car.  Just bolt the pump to the ears of 
the mount and put the stud of the mount into a 5/16 hole that you can put 
anywhere.


Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup "Miss Pent" Ute

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup at comcast.net>
To: "'Larry Daniels'" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 11:26 AM
Subject: RE: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA


Wow, who would have thought an aircraft parts supplier would be the
cheapest.  I guess I can rely on this pump if people put them in airplanes!

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Daniels [mailto:ladaniels at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 7:26 AM
To: Stuart MacMillan; WLHoss at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA

Or you can get them here even cheaper:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php


Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup "Miss Pent" Ute

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup at comcast.net>
To: <WLHoss at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA


The Facet pump shown here works great, and it's a lot cheaper than the one
you linked to:  http://tinyurl.com/6zqlh6

It's the same one Moss sells for more, but they include proper fittings for
MGs.

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WLHoss at aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 7:10 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA

Hi,
I have a Facet Fuel Pump
(_http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps_
(http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps) )  in my
1959 MGA that has finally given up the ghost.  My question is
should I replace it with the same type or is there a better choice?  I've
had
the car for about 7 years and it didn't look new even then.

Thanks for any help,
                               Bill Hoss



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Thu Sep  4 11:04:50 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 13:04:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II
In-Reply-To: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF37B98B40.3F8BF1EC-ON852574BA.005D5288-852574BA.005DD420@exxonmobil.com>

Eric,

If the stalling on right hand corners has only started since installing the
charcoal canister, then I would start by disconnect the lines from the
carburettors to the canisters and go for a drive and try to duplicate the
situation where the car stalled on the right hand curves.  It seems to me
that you need to confirm or eliminate the charcoal canisters as the source
of the problem.

Mark
73 MGBGT

Subject: [Mgs] 74 B stalls on right hand corners, Mk II

I did pull the hoses off of the charcoal canister and start the B. Started
up right away and idled nicely cold at 800 rpm. Much better than in the
past. I will check to see if the canister seems to be plugged.

I have had the car since 1995 and it has only done this in the past few
years. Since I added the charcoal canister during this period, it seemed
reasonable to think that might be part of the problem

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep  4 12:48:43 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 14:48:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 4
Message-ID: <20080904.152845.880.58.MGBOB@juno.com>

  That's the puzzle--damp in the bowls yet wet in the venturis and on the
sparkplugs. A mix too rich will not burn, and a mix too lean will not
burn. One would think a mix rich enough to wet the plugs would be rich
enough to burn, but it did not.


On Thu, 4 Sep 2008 16:59:02 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
But how could that cause a strong fuel smell and a wet carb throat and
plugs, all of which are symptoms of flooding, not starvation?
----- Original Message ----- 
   What we are thinking is that there must have been some little amount
of fuel getting into the bowl, enough to be sucked up and into the engine
but not rich enough in mix to burn.   
____________________________________________________________
 Study criminal justice and earn your degree. Click here to request free program info!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mAL7SHfc5teZAZkU6Qc08KgnLiVm5CxP8P5Q4NoXxeqsQc9/

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep  4 13:15:38 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 15:15:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts
Message-ID: <20080904.152846.880.62.MGBOB@juno.com>

Paul,
   A slow response to this topic:
   The car had suffered from what seemed to be fuel starvation for a
couple of days. Used for short trips those days, it stumbled but got
through the day's business. 
   But then I learned that if you fill the tank and the car is parked on
hot tarmac for a couple of hours with a blocked vent line, the fuel
expands enough to flood the carbs and to blow out of the filler cap when
the cap is removed.  I agree, it probably would not do that if one were
driving and lowering the fuel level, but it happened to me just before a
business meeting.  The odor of the fuel on trousers isn't so bad, but
skin itching caused the meeting to seem even longer than it was. 
   The whoosh of air was the key to the problem. I had not noticed the
slight vacuum/suction on short drives before the exciting event. 
Bob

   
On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:52:47 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
> Firstly if the vent line is plugged you *won't* get fuel from the 
> tank going
> into the canister, because the vent line *is* blocked, although it 
> will cause
> fuel starvation.  And unless you remove the fuel filler cap you 
> won't be able
> to blow through the vent line anyway.  The easiest test for a 
> blocked vent
> line is to remove the fuel filler cap when it starts acting-up.  If 
> you get a
> whoosh of air it *is* blocked, and you should be able to start the 
> engine and
> drive off normally immediately.  But a blocked line wouldn't allow 
> you to
> drive off normally *until* you had removed the filler cap, or left 
> it for some
> time, and it would cause the same thing to happen every few miles, 
> not once
> every few days or weeks.  Even a vent line that was intermittently 
> blocked is
> unlikely to act like this.
> 
> PaulH.
>   ----- Original Message -----
> 
> 
> 
>    One thing to check is that the vent line from the adsorbtion 
> cannister
>   to fuel tank is venting. If plugged, you can experience both lack 
> of fuel
>   and fuel being pushed into the adsorbtion cannister.
> _______________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
Embrace e-commerce and sell your products or services online. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nqoinW0McR0LGTmjGKE7zbRqDLMvyP8swAKrJY48Dyiy0PD/

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Sep  4 16:11:22 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2008 17:11:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Facet Fuel Pump in MGA
In-Reply-To: <97A5E35347B8418FAD6B25DB1B0313C2@Larry>
References: <d2a.31185614.35edfa5b@aol.com>
	<A27782258F5744229B9EAE053708FC7E@StusLaptopPC>
	<9AB67DD517CB4617BDB16DCF3C884CE2@Larry>
	<37DD0F5609DE47BD82B57E27766FD596@StusLaptopPC>
	<97A5E35347B8418FAD6B25DB1B0313C2@Larry>
Message-ID: <20080904221542.6328018763D@autox.team.net>

At 11:38 AM 9/4/2008 -0500, Larry Daniels wrote:
>.... you can use an MGB transmission mount 413-050 to isolate the 
>pump from the car.  ....

If you already have the pump mounted, you can use the same two holes 
for these rubber mounts for a little cheaper, and locally available. 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp204.htm

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep  5 01:47:50 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 08:47:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 4
References: <20080904.113942.880.50.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<016501c90ea7$2a890580$0200a8c0@Three>
	<5E5528C7-D552-4F5C-86D1-3F1E491663E5@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <005e01c90f2e$93e4d6d0$0200a8c0@Three>

How can wet plugs and carb throat be too lean?  That's flooded.  How do you
get from lean to flooded without passing through a period of correct mixture
which should have fired?  It sounds to me like there was more than one
problem, like no ignition causing the initial flooding then the Grose jet
blocking up which allowed the float bowls to empty.  The only other
possibility is that the Grose jets were flooding initially which prevented it
firing, then stopped flowing altogether, which allowed the continued cranking
to empty the float bowl, but it was already flooded so it still didn't start.
Which is stretching things a bit.  Also much of the thread mentions 'Grose
jets' and 'float bowls' i.e. plural i.e. twin carbs making the simultaneous
failure of both Grose jets being even more unlikely as the cause. If you are
saying that once the float valves were replaced the car ran fine then we have
to take that at face value, but there is nothing to say you didn't disturb the
real problem along the way, which may or may not come back to bite you.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  Too lean to ignite doesn't mean the total absence of fuel.








  On Sep 4, 2008, at 10:59 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:


    But how could that cause a strong fuel smell and a wet carb throat and
plugs, all of which are symptoms of flooding, not starvation?
      ----- Original Message -----
         What we are thinking is that there must have been some little amount
      of fuel getting into the bowl, enough to be sucked up and into the
engine
      but not rich enough in mix to burn.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep  5 02:18:30 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 09:18:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts
References: <20080904.152846.880.62.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <00cf01c90f32$c64baf00$0200a8c0@Three>

Several oddities here.  If the fuel in the tank was expanding, causing a
'whoosh' when you removed the filler cap and spurting out of the filler hole,
then the vent was blocked which would mean that fuel from the tank couldn't
flood the carbs.  The tank should have a limiting chamber that is designed to
prevent fuel leaking from the filler on expansion, unless its bleed vent were
blocked or a non-limited tank was installed.  If the vent were not blocked,
then expansion would run into the canister and from there onto the ground.  It
couldn't get to the carbs unless there were other blockages in the canister
plumbing.  If the outlet to the canister were blocked, but the tank vent were
not, then there is a possibility of *air* pressure from the tank going into
carb vents, which would push the fuel level down in the float bowl and
consequently up out of the jet, so flooding the engine, possibly emptying the
float bowls.  The carbs may flood themselves if the float level is too high,
simply from expansion of the fuel in the float chamber and nothing else.  But
that has never happened on my V8, when switching off on very hot days I can
hear the fuel boiling in the float bowls and see fumes pouring out of the
vent, but no fuel dripping out and no flooding.  When I do restart some time
after that the fuel pump chatters away like mad for several seconds as it is
having to refill both float bowls.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ...   But then I learned that if you fill the tank and the car is parked on
  hot tarmac for a couple of hours with a blocked vent line, the fuel
  expands enough to flood the carbs and to blow out of the filler cap when
  the cap is removed.
  ...
     The whoosh of air was the key to the problem. I had not noticed the
  slight vacuum/suction on short drives before the exciting event.

From montejane at gmail.com  Fri Sep  5 23:58:08 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 00:58:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] wiring distributor
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0809052258g7fd52942k1c1cfb5f7b4a832c@mail.gmail.com>

I'm going to (finally) install a relay to protect my light switch after
installing halogen headlights and tail lights a few years back. Has anyone
done business with the following person, who offers complete kits for  MGs
for $75?
Steve Carrick
Advance Auto Wire LLC
8277 Woodpark Dr.
Byron Center, MI 49315


Thanks,
Monte, 79B

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Sep  6 08:02:39 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 10:02:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts
Message-ID: <20080906.100354.3520.7.MGBOB@juno.com>

Paul,
   The vent line was plugged, which was confirmed when the compressed air
hose blew a rusty, viscous sludge out of the line into a cup.  
    This is a car I bought well used, so I do not know if the tank were
the original or a correct tank. It had been off the car at some time, as
the rubber packing strips that should have been present were not present
when I removed the tank.  
    It could be that there were two issues: the blocked fuel vent line,
as the carbon cannister did overflow and the tank had pressure,  and
there was flooding of the HIF carbs.  
    Our home is in a valley that chills well below area temperatures at
night.  I filled the tank that morning at a near-by fuel station, then
driven only a mile or two before parking it in a large asphalt lot on the
clear, sunny day, during which the air temp rose some 30 degrees.  Mid
afternoon I returned to the MG, smelled the fuel, tried to start it,
found gasoline dripping onto the ground and onto passenger side (USA)
carpet, pressure in the tank, etc.
    One by one, little problems of this sort get resolved. 
Bob
 

On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 09:18:30 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
Several oddities here.  If the fuel in the tank was expanding, causing a
'whoosh' when you removed the filler cap and spurting out of the filler
hole, then the vent was blocked which would mean that fuel from the tank
couldn't flood the carbs.  The tank should have a limiting chamber that
is designed to prevent fuel leaking from the filler on expansion, unless
its bleed vent were blocked or a non-limited tank was installed.  If the
vent were not blocked, then expansion would run into the canister and
from there onto the ground.  It couldn't get to the carbs unless there
were other blockages in the canister plumbing.  If the outlet to the
canister were blocked, but the tank vent were not, then there is a
possibility of *air* pressure from the tank going into carb vents, which
would push the fuel level down in the float bowl and consequently up out
of the jet, so flooding the engine, possibly emptying the float bowls. 
The carbs may flood themselves if the float level is too high, simply
from expansion of the fuel in the float chamber and nothing else.  But
that has never happened on my V8, when switching off on very hot days I
can hear the fuel boiling in the float bowls and see fumes pouring out of
the vent, but no fuel dripping out and no flooding.  When I do restart
some time after that the fuel pump chatters away like mad for several
seconds as it is having to refill both float bowls.

PaulH.   
____________________________________________________________
Free quote and debt consolidation information.  Click Here.
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From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Sep  6 07:41:11 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 09:41:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 4
Message-ID: <20080906.100354.3520.6.MGBOB@juno.com>

Paul,
   The questions you pose are part of the puzzle.  The plugs were wet,
there was moisture at the throat, yet the bowls had 1/8" or less of fuel
in them, both of them.  Both Grose-Jets were new this spring.  His fuel
was fresh, and put into a tank that had been cleaned. The fuel filters,
metal, were not cut open to inspect them, but the fuel line pumped plenty
of fuel to the float bowls.  Once he replaced both Grose Jets with the
original MGA needles, the bowls filled and engine ran nicely. 
   Distributor is new Pertronics, wires are new, two sets of spark plugs
are new, compression is OK.  
   While it appears that the Grose Jets are the problem, the only
certainty is uncertainty.  I suppose we will (or will not) know more
after he drives the car and gets more miles on it.
Bob

On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 08:47:50 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
> How can wet plugs and carb throat be too lean?  That's flooded.  How 
> do you
> get from lean to flooded without passing through a period of correct 
> mixture
> which should have fired?  It sounds to me like there was more than 
> one
> problem, like no ignition causing the initial flooding then the 
> Grose jet
> blocking up which allowed the float bowls to empty.  The only other
> possibility is that the Grose jets were flooding initially which 
> prevented it
> firing, then stopped flowing altogether, which allowed the continued 
> cranking
> to empty the float bowl, but it was already flooded so it still 
> didn't start.
> Which is stretching things a bit.  Also much of the thread mentions 
> 'Grose
> jets' and 'float bowls' i.e. plural i.e. twin carbs making the 
> simultaneous
> failure of both Grose jets being even more unlikely as the cause. If 
> you are
> saying that once the float valves were replaced the car ran fine 
> then we have
> to take that at face value, but there is nothing to say you didn't 
> disturb the
> real problem along the way, which may or may not come back to bite 
> you.
> 
> PaulH.
>   ----- Original Message -----
> 
> 
>   Too lean to ignite doesn't mean the total absence of fuel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   On Sep 4, 2008, at 10:59 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
> 
> 
>     But how could that cause a strong fuel smell and a wet carb 
> throat and
> plugs, all of which are symptoms of flooding, not starvation?
>       ----- Original Message -----
>          What we are thinking is that there must have been some 
> little amount
>       of fuel getting into the bowl, enough to be sucked up and into 
> the
> engine
>       but not rich enough in mix to burn.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> /mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Mon Sep  8 05:34:41 2008
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 07:34:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Help
In-Reply-To: <011d01c90e95$4ac06ad0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <B678FF9E-B5C6-47DE-8F18-4483469817CC@tampabay.rr.com><010a01c90b7d$518555
	80$0200a8c0@Three> <a06230910c4e58531d988@[128.151.164.253]>
	<011d01c90e95$4ac06ad0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <a06230900c4eabdba18ed@[128.151.164.253]>

Does anyone know what the resistance of the OD solinoid is or what 
the current draw should be when it is engaged ?

-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Mon Sep  8 07:09:13 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 09:09:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] headlight relay set-up
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1220724001.16605.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFED99A2BD.A51FB550-ON852574BE.00463202-852574BE.004843BF@exxonmobil.com>

Monte,

I recently bought a headlight relay set-up from Eric Marshall,
limey at cablespeed.com, and did a write-up on the product for my local Club's
monthly newsletter, http://www.bluewaterbritishcarclub.ca/08Julyspan.pdf.
I am very happy with the relay system I received from Eric.  It took about
20 minutes to install and the increased brightness of the lights was
noticeable.  I am hoping to soon add one to my Spitfire as well..  I think
he is charging around $35 for his headlight relay set-up.

Mark
1973 MGBGT
1980 Spitfire

From: "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] wiring distributor

I'm going to (finally) install a relay to protect my light switch after
installing halogen headlights and tail lights a few years back. Has anyone
done business with the following person, who offers complete kits for  MGs
for $75?
Steve Carrick
Advance Auto Wire LLC
8277 Woodpark Dr.
Byron Center, MI 49315

Thanks,
Monte, 79B

From eugeneb at nni.com  Mon Sep  8 07:53:19 2008
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 09:53:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
Message-ID: <web-134840451@admin.nni.com>

All,

  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have
anymore info ?  Supposedly available in Canada at this
time.

Gene
80 B


Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!   

 Specially formulated 
for Classic Cars 
API Service SM/SL/SJ/CF 
ACEA: A3/B3/B4 
ILSAC GF-2/GF-3/GF-4 

 Classic & Vintage Vehicles that Qualify.
 
Pre-1949 1949-1961 1962-1973 
* Restoration * Restoration * Restoration 
* Hot Rods * Customs * Muscle Cars 
* Street Rods * Rat Rods * Pony Cars 
    * Customs 
    * Pro Street 
    * Pro Touring 
 
Key Benefits* 

 Contains increased zinc levels for extra engine wear
prevention. 

 Utilizes proprietary additives and base oils to reduce
metal-on-metal contact of aging engine parts. 

 Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars
with flat tappet camshafts. 
    
*
 SYNTEC 20w-50 does not meet the catalyst compatibility
requirements of vehicles manufactured after 1993. 
 

---------------------------------------------------------------------
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From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Mon Sep  8 08:24:30 2008
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 10:24:30 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
In-Reply-To: <web-134840451@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFMEFHCCAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Hello Gene,

There was an extensive thread here a while back.

SAE oils rated SG and SH still have the maximum levels of zinc and
phosphorus. Later rated oils have reduced levels and should be avoided, in
my opinion.

The Syntec looks like it would work well but I could not find the 20w-50
version locally but did find Castrol 4T four stroke motorcycle oil 20w-50 at
a much lower price than grades of Syntec that were on the shelf. I think it
was US$22 for 5 liters.

If you can't find the Syntec, the 4T seems to be a better chioce than GTX.

Eric
74 B



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Eugene Balinski
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 9:53 AM
To: mgs at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


All,

  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have
anymore info ?  Supposedly available in Canada at this
time.

Gene
80 B


Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!

 Specially formulated
for Classic Cars
API Service SM/SL/SJ/CF
ACEA: A3/B3/B4
ILSAC GF-2/GF-3/GF-4

 Classic & Vintage Vehicles that Qualify.

Pre-1949 1949-1961 1962-1973
* Restoration * Restoration * Restoration
* Hot Rods * Customs * Muscle Cars
* Street Rods * Rat Rods * Pony Cars
    * Customs
    * Pro Street
    * Pro Touring

Key Benefits*

 Contains increased zinc levels for extra engine wear
prevention.

 Utilizes proprietary additives and base oils to reduce
metal-on-metal contact of aging engine parts.

 Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars
with flat tappet camshafts.

*
 SYNTEC 20w-50 does not meet the catalyst compatibility
requirements of vehicles manufactured after 1993.


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No virus found in this incoming message.
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8:07 PM

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep  8 08:46:29 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:46:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
References: <web-134840451@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <007701c911c2$b264ae00$0200a8c0@Three>

Did you Google it?
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentI
d=7032644
  ----- Original Message -----


    Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have
  anymore info ?  Supposedly available in Canada at this
  time.
  Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep  8 08:53:30 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:53:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Help
References: <B678FF9E-B5C6-47DE-8F18-4483469817CC@tampabay.rr.com><010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three>
	<a06230910c4e58531d988@[128.151.164.253]><011d01c90e95$4ac06ad0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<a06230900c4eabdba18ed@[128.151.164.253]>
Message-ID: <007801c911c2$b283a7b0$0200a8c0@Three>

As always, what year?  The D-type fitted to 3-sync gearboxes had two coils - a
pull-in measuring 0.7 ohms which draws 17 amps, and a hold-in which measures 6
ohms and draws 2 amps.  The 4-sync LH-type has only one winding which measures
15 ohms and draws 800 milliamps.

If you suspect an electrical problem the best path is to insert an ammeter in
series rather than measure the resistance.  There is usually a convenient
connector where the gearbox harness joins the D-type sub-harness (yellow/red
to yellow) and the LH-type joins the main harness.  The colours for the LH
depends on whether you have the dash, column or gear-lever manual switch.
Remember to turn on the ignition and manual OD switches and select an OD to
see current flow.  If there is no current flow change the meter to voltage and
see if you have 12v present.  If you have then there is an open-circuit
somewhere between your ammeter and the physical ground at the solenoid.  If
you don't see 12v then there is an open-circuit back towards the ignition
circuit.

Even if the electrical tests are OK the solenoid could still be at fault if
the plunger is mechanically jammed in the solenoid coil, or if it is out of
adjustment in the case of the D-type.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Does anyone know what the resistance of the OD solinoid is or what
  the current draw should be when it is engaged ?

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 09:16:22 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 08:16:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
In-Reply-To: <web-134840451@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <675546.25410.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have yet to see the specially labled classic car version of Syntec. I assume it is just for $$$ that Castrol has elected to put it only in thier Syntec line and not regular dino oil GTX. I just use Valvoline VR1 20/50 it has at least 1200ppm ZDDP in it and costs no more than any other quality motor oil. Can be found in the US at Advance Auto/Autozone/ and NAPA.
FWIW
Carl

--- On Mon, 9/8/08, Eugene Balinski <eugeneb at nni.com> wrote:

From: Eugene Balinski <eugeneb at nni.com>
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
To: mgs at Autox.Team.Net
Date: Monday, September 8, 2008, 9:53 AM

All,

  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have
anymore info ?  Supposedly available in Canada at this
time.

Gene
80 B


Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!   

 Specially formulated 
for Classic Cars 
API Service SM/SL/SJ/CF 
ACEA: A3/B3/B4 
ILSAC GF-2/GF-3/GF-4 

 Classic & Vintage Vehicles that Qualify.
 
Pre-1949 1949-1961 1962-1973 
* Restoration * Restoration * Restoration 
* Hot Rods * Customs * Muscle Cars 
* Street Rods * Rat Rods * Pony Cars 
    * Customs 
    * Pro Street 
    * Pro Touring 
 
Key Benefits* 

 Contains increased zinc levels for extra engine wear
prevention. 

 Utilizes proprietary additives and base oils to reduce
metal-on-metal contact of aging engine parts. 

 Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars
with flat tappet camshafts. 
    
*
 SYNTEC 20w-50 does not meet the catalyst compatibility
requirements of vehicles manufactured after 1993. 
 

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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep  8 09:39:22 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 16:39:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
References: <675546.25410.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009101c911cb$173592b0$0200a8c0@Three>

The other Castrol con is that to reduce the shelf price at first glance they
have reduced the container size from 5 Litres to 4.  Originally it was their
synthetic only, now the conventional is the same.
  ----- Original Message -----

  ... I assume it is just for $$$ that Castrol has elected ...

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Mon Sep  8 13:47:41 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:47:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1220896801.3873.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFBF742BB4.8F69ECC5-ON852574BE.006C3EF4-852574BE.006CBEB1@exxonmobil.com>

Castrol Syntec 20W50 is the oil I plan to start using this fall in my MGBGT
and Spitfire.

I called Castrol Canada earlier this summer and at that time they told it
was not available in Canada.  I happen to live on the border with the
States so shall venture over and pick up a case.

Personally, I wouldn't use racing oil in a non-racing car.  Racing oil does
not have the additive package that a normal oil does because racing oil is
designed for a completely different "environment" than non-racing oil and
will not give the same level of protection.

Mark
1973 MGBGT
1980 Spitfire

From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?

All,

  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have anymore info ?
Supposedly available in Canada at this
time.

Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!

From jello at cableone.net  Mon Sep  8 14:32:33 2008
From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 13:32:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
Message-ID: <1065.1220905953@cableone.net>

   Castrol  Syntec 20W50 is some hard stuff to find.  Granted I live in a
   small  town (about 60,000), but there's only one store here that sells
   it,  and that is a Wal-Mart.  We have 3 Checker stores, 2 autozones, 2
   NAPA stores, carquest, and numerous other small stores, and even 2 Wal
   Mart's, but only one Wal Mart carries 20W50 Syntec.

   You can find 5W50 just about anywhere though.  Since you don't need to
   be worried much about cold viscosity, it should do fine.

   Phil Bates

   Idaho Falls, ID
   On Mon Sep 8 15:47 , mark.jones at exxonmobil.com sent:
   
     Castrol  Syntec 20W50 is the oil I plan to start using this fall in
     my MGBGT
     and Spitfire.
     I  called  Castrol Canada earlier this summer and at that time they
     told it
     was  not  available  in Canada. I happen to live on the border with
     the
     States so shall venture over and pick up a case.
     Personally,  I  wouldn't use racing oil in a non-racing car. Racing
     oil does
     not have the additive package that a normal oil does because racing
     oil is
     designed  for  a completely different "environment" than non-racing
     oil and
     will not give the same level of protection.
     Mark
     1973 MGBGT
     1980 Spitfire
     From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com >
     Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
     All,
     Saw  this  on  one  of the Brit car sites. Does anyone have anymore
     info ?
     Supposedly available in Canada at this
     time.
     Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Mon Sep  8 14:08:56 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 16:08:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
In-Reply-To: <1065.1220905953@cableone.net>
Message-ID: <OFD6ECE76A.C9792FC8-ON852574BE.006E6FBC-852574BE.006EB0E9@exxonmobil.com>

A small town is 60,000?  Man, I'm from less than a fork in the road then
:-)

I'm going to be ordering it from www.proformanceusa.com.  The price seems
reasonable for synthetic.

Mark


                                                                           
             Phil Bates                                                    
             <jello at cableon                                                
             e.net>                                                     To 
                                      mgs at autox.team.net, eugeneb at nni.com, 
                                      mark.jones at exxonmobil.com            
             09/08/2008                                                 cc 
             04:32 PM                                                      
                                                                   Subject 
                                      Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?      
             Please respond                                                
                   to                                                      
             jello at cableone                                                
                  .net                                                     
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           




Castrol Syntec 20W50 is some hard stuff to find.  Granted I live in a small
town (about 60,000), but there's only one store here that sells it, and
that is a Wal-Mart.  We have 3 Checker stores, 2 autozones, 2 NAPA stores,
carquest, and numerous other small stores, and even 2 Wal Mart's, but only
one Wal Mart carries 20W50 Syntec.


You can find 5W50 just about anywhere though.  Since you don't need to be
worried much about cold viscosity, it should do fine.


 Phil Bates, Idaho Falls, ID



Castrol Syntec 20W50 is the oil I plan to start using this fall in my MGBGT
and Spitfire.

I called Castrol Canada earlier this summer and at that time they told it
was not available in Canada. I happen to live on the border with the
States so shall venture over and pick up a case.

Personally, I wouldn't use racing oil in a non-racing car. Racing oil does
not have the additive package that a normal oil does because racing oil is
designed for a completely different "environment" than non-racing oil and
will not give the same level of protection.

Mark
1973 MGBGT
1980 Spitfire

From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Mon Sep  8 14:38:12 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:38:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
References: <OFBF742BB4.8F69ECC5-ON852574BE.006C3EF4-852574BE.006CBEB1@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <133101c911f2$d18df8b0$b4680143@your55e5f9e3d2>

Do we have PROOF that there is at least 1200ppm of ZDDP
in the Castrol.   I use the Castrol in the wife's '06 Sonata.
B cam and lifters are so tender as to steer me away from
putting anything w/ less than the 1200 ppm  in a B engine
and very hesitant about doing so in any flat tappet motor.

art d
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <mark.jones at exxonmobil.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>; <eugeneb at nni.com>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


> Castrol Syntec 20W50 is the oil I plan to start using this fall in my 
> MGBGT
> and Spitfire.
>
> I called Castrol Canada earlier this summer and at that time they told it
> was not available in Canada.  I happen to live on the border with the
> States so shall venture over and pick up a case.
>
> Personally, I wouldn't use racing oil in a non-racing car.  Racing oil 
> does
> not have the additive package that a normal oil does because racing oil is
> designed for a completely different "environment" than non-racing oil and
> will not give the same level of protection.
>
> Mark
> 1973 MGBGT
> 1980 Spitfire
>
> From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
> Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
>
> All,
>
>  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have anymore info ?
> Supposedly available in Canada at this
> time.
>
> Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.16/1651 - Release Date: 9/4/2008 
> 6:57 AM

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 16:45:23 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:45:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
In-Reply-To: <133101c911f2$d18df8b0$b4680143@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <865786.78511.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

When I first saw the print ad for it I called Castrol and talked to them the
customer service person I talked to took the time and tracked down the amount
for me.
 
BE CAREFUL, Castrol Syntec DOES NOT HAVE ZDDP. A specially labled version of
Syntec 20/50 is what has the zddp. You have to see the tag on the front that
says formulated for classic cars.
 
Carl

--- On Mon, 9/8/08, riverside <riverside at cedar-rapids.net> wrote:

From: riverside <riverside at cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
To: mgs at autox.team.net, eugeneb at nni.com, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com
Date: Monday, September 8, 2008, 4:38 PM

Do we have PROOF that there is at least 1200ppm of ZDDP
in the Castrol.   I use the Castrol in the wife's '06 Sonata.
B cam and lifters are so tender as to steer me away from
putting anything w/ less than the 1200 ppm  in a B engine
and very hesitant about doing so in any flat tappet motor.

art d
----- Original Message -----
From: <mark.jones at exxonmobil.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>; <eugeneb at nni.com>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


> Castrol Syntec 20W50 is the oil I plan to start using this fall in my
> MGBGT
> and Spitfire.
>
> I called Castrol Canada earlier this summer and at that time they told it
> was not available in Canada.  I happen to live on the border with the
> States so shall venture over and pick up a case.
>
> Personally, I wouldn't use racing oil in a non-racing car.  Racing oil

> does
> not have the additive package that a normal oil does because racing oil is
> designed for a completely different "environment" than
non-racing oil and
> will not give the same level of protection.
>
> Mark
> 1973 MGBGT
> 1980 Spitfire
>
> From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
> Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
>
> All,
>
>  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have anymore info ?
> Supposedly available in Canada at this
> time.
>
> Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.16/1651 - Release Date: 9/4/2008
> 6:57 AM
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 16:46:26 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:46:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
In-Reply-To: <133101c911f2$d18df8b0$b4680143@your55e5f9e3d2>
Message-ID: <930391.73418.qm@web51911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

When I first saw the print ad for it I called Castrol and talked to them the
customer service person I talked to took the time and tracked down the amount
for me.
 
BE CAREFUL, Castrol Syntec DOES NOT HAVE ZDDP. A specially labled version of
Syntec 20/50 is what has the zddp. You have to see the tag on the front that
says formulated for classic cars.
 
Carl

--- On Mon, 9/8/08, riverside <riverside at cedar-rapids.net> wrote:

From: riverside <riverside at cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
To: mgs at autox.team.net, eugeneb at nni.com, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com
Date: Monday, September 8, 2008, 4:38 PM

Do we have PROOF that there is at least 1200ppm of ZDDP
in the Castrol.   I use the Castrol in the wife's '06 Sonata.
B cam and lifters are so tender as to steer me away from
putting anything w/ less than the 1200 ppm  in a B engine
and very hesitant about doing so in any flat tappet motor.

art d
----- Original Message -----
From: <mark.jones at exxonmobil.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>; <eugeneb at nni.com>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


> Castrol Syntec 20W50 is the oil I plan to start using this fall in my
> MGBGT
> and Spitfire.
>
> I called Castrol Canada earlier this summer and at that time they told it
> was not available in Canada.  I happen to live on the border with the
> States so shall venture over and pick up a case.
>
> Personally, I wouldn't use racing oil in a non-racing car.  Racing oil

> does
> not have the additive package that a normal oil does because racing oil is
> designed for a completely different "environment" than
non-racing oil and
> will not give the same level of protection.
>
> Mark
> 1973 MGBGT
> 1980 Spitfire
>
> From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
> Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
>
> All,
>
>  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have anymore info ?
> Supposedly available in Canada at this
> time.
>
> Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.16/1651 - Release Date: 9/4/2008
> 6:57 AM
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  8 21:49:49 2008
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 20:49:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
References: <OFBF742BB4.8F69ECC5-ON852574BE.006C3EF4-852574BE.006CBEB1@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <005b01c9122f$1c6c6b00$6401a8c0@kingmanxp>

For those who get the Hagerty  "news letter", this year's Fall issue touches 
on this subject.  Per the article suggestions are:

1. oils rated for gasoline and diesel engines; Shell and Chevron 
specifically mentioned
2. Valvoline's VR1 racing oil
3. Castrol Syntec 20/50; verify label says "Recommended for Classic Cars"
4. Red Line synthetic
5. Brad Peen Penn Grade 1 Racing oil
6. Classic car motor oil manufactured and bottled by D-A Lubricant Company
7. ZDDPLUS or Cam-Shield additives

Bottom line they recommend oils with at least 1200PPM of phosphorous.

Ron
'71 MGB

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <mark.jones at exxonmobil.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>; <eugeneb at nni.com>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


> Castrol Syntec 20W50 is the oil I plan to start using this fall in my 
> MGBGT
> and Spitfire.
>
> I called Castrol Canada earlier this summer and at that time they told it
> was not available in Canada.  I happen to live on the border with the
> States so shall venture over and pick up a case.
>
> Personally, I wouldn't use racing oil in a non-racing car.  Racing oil 
> does
> not have the additive package that a normal oil does because racing oil is
> designed for a completely different "environment" than non-racing oil and
> will not give the same level of protection.
>
> Mark
> 1973 MGBGT
> 1980 Spitfire
>
> From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb at nni.com>
> Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
>
> All,
>
>  Saw this on one of the Brit car sites.  Does anyone have anymore info ?
> Supposedly available in Canada at this
> time.
>
> Castrol Syntec 20w-50 / NEW!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ronking at sbcglobal.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Sep  9 00:16:08 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 01:16:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spot weld mill, need picture
Message-ID: <20080909061615.83CBA1878D3@autox.team.net>

Does anyone have a picture, or a retail source, or a manufacturer's 
name and model number, for a spot weld mill?  I have used one of 
these (borrowed), but I need a picture.

This tool looks like a hand held air drill that holds an end mill 
cutter.  It also has a C-frame holding a small anvil in front of the 
cutter.  Position the tool over a spot welded sheet metal flange in 
line with a spot weld, pull the trigger, the milling cutter moves 
forward with some force to contact the weld while turnimg to cut 
through the first layer of metal.  Depth of cut is controlled by 
adjusting position of the anvil.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Sep  9 00:34:45 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 23:34:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Spot weld mill, need picture
In-Reply-To: <20080909061615.83CBA1878D3@autox.team.net>
References: <20080909061615.83CBA1878D3@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10809082334p370874c8sedfb3598aadfe85@mail.gmail.com>

I know exactly what you are asking for, but damned if I can find it.
It seems most places are just selling a Blair cutter type bit like this kit
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2485&page=2&#51873

I did find exactly what you are looking for with an air drill attached
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2552&select=&page=2
Good luck
Rick

On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 11:16 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>wrote:

> Does anyone have a picture, or a retail source, or a manufacturer's
> name and model number, for a spot weld mill?  I have used one of
> these (borrowed), but I need a picture.
>
> This tool looks like a hand held air drill that holds an end mill
> cutter.  It also has a C-frame holding a small anvil in front of the
> cutter.  Position the tool over a spot welded sheet metal flange in
> line with a spot weld, pull the trigger, the milling cutter moves
> forward with some force to contact the weld while turnimg to cut
> through the first layer of metal.  Depth of cut is controlled by
> adjusting position of the anvil.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Sep  9 03:30:12 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 04:30:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spot weld mill, need picture
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10809082334p370874c8sedfb3598aadfe85@mail.gmail.com
  >
References: <20080909061615.83CBA1878D3@autox.team.net>
	<a3b984e10809082334p370874c8sedfb3598aadfe85@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080909093019.8594718767E@autox.team.net>

Thank you Rick,  --  Spot on!  (Pun intended).  For all the fiddling 
I as doing, all I had to do was call it a Drill instead 
of  Mill.  Google turns up lots of them as "Spot Weld Drill" or "Spot 
Weld Drill Kit".

Case closed,

Barney


At 11:34 PM 9/8/2008 -0700, Richard Ewald wrote:
>I know exactly what you are asking for, but damned if I can find it.
>It seems most places are just selling a Blair cutter type bit like 
>this kit 
><http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2485&page=2&#51873>http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2485&page=2&#51873
>
>I did find exactly what you are looking for with an air drill 
>attached 
><http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2552&select=&page=2>http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2552&select=&page=2 
>
>Good luck
>Rick
>
>On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 11:16 PM, Barney Gaylord 
><<mailto:barneymg at mgaguru.com>barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:
>Does anyone have a picture, or a retail source, or a manufacturer's
>name and model number, for a spot weld mill?  I have used one of
>these (borrowed), but I need a picture.
>
>This tool looks like a hand held air drill that holds an end mill
>cutter.  It also has a C-frame holding a small anvil in front of the
>cutter.  Position the tool over a spot welded sheet metal flange in
>line with a spot weld, pull the trigger, the milling cutter moves
>forward with some force to contact the weld while turnimg to cut
>through the first layer of metal.  Depth of cut is controlled by
>adjusting position of the anvil.
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
><http://MGAguru.com>http://MGAguru.com

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Sep  9 06:45:36 2008
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 08:45:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Spot weld mill, need picture (drifting off-topic...)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080909084536.3cflgois5c0swok0@webmail2.centurytel.net>

> I did find exactly what you are looking for with an air drill attached
> http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2552&select=&page=2

Sorry - drifting off topic here - but it makes me laugh to see how even a big
company like MatCo Tools can butcher the English language:

"Drill can be set to a certain depth which allows the tool to drill out spot
welds while keeping the panel in tack."

(If the panels remain in tack then aren't they are still intact?)

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

From twobees at sprynet.com  Tue Sep  9 10:03:19 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 12:03:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
Message-ID: <004401c91295$94619520$6401a8c0@normoffice>

Here is link to the oil:

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470
<http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&conten
tId=7032644> &contentId=7032644

Norm Sippel

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Tue Sep  9 13:20:17 2008
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 15:20:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
References: <004401c91295$94619520$6401a8c0@normoffice>
Message-ID: <3B49D8A54AFB4EA8A4E94C28133E5F73@frankdcczr6l6k>

Norm: That link didn't work for me. I get a message that is "expired".
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Norm 2Bs" <twobees at sprynet.com>
To: "MG Digest" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


> Here is link to the oil:
>
> http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470
> <http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&conten
> tId=7032644> &contentId=7032644
>
> Norm Sippel
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as frankk12 at verizon.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From twobees at sprynet.com  Tue Sep  9 14:57:03 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 16:57:03 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?
In-Reply-To: <3B49D8A54AFB4EA8A4E94C28133E5F73@frankdcczr6l6k>
Message-ID: <007801c912be$9ca5af40$6401a8c0@normoffice>

I guess Castrol has some strange site designers.  Don't want to make it easy
for consumers to learn about their products now.  Do we?

Try this.
Go to:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castrolhomepage.do?categoryId=3240&source=ca

Search for "Classic cars"  You will get 22 results.  The first one is:
"Castrol USA - Castrol SYNTEC 20w-50
... for Classic Cars. Finally, a motor oil that's one for the classics...
Today's engines
face different demands than those of yesteryear. Now classic car owners ...
http://www.castrol.com/.../genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7
032644
Castrol USA"

Go there.

Norm


-----Original Message-----
From: frankk12 at verizon.net [mailto:frankk12 at verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 3:20 PM
To: twobees at sprynet.com
Cc: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


Norm: That link didn't work for me. I get a message that is "expired". Frank
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norm 2Bs" <twobees at sprynet.com>
To: "MG Digest" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Classic Car Oil ?


> Here is link to the oil:
>
> http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470
> <http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&
> conten
> tId=7032644> &contentId=7032644
>
> Norm Sippel
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  9 18:58:18 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 19:58:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>

A lot of older, motorcycle, diesel (CI-4) and racing oils have ZDDP  
along with a number of brands. Some people worry about diesel oils  
but some meet diesel and gas standards.  Royal Purple sells a break  
in oil and then recommends standard oils.

I personally am not worried about it the issue.  (I suspect the  
problems are really from using synthetic instead of break in oil)    
There have been studies and publications by API engineers that say  
that SM rated oils are sufficient - see article below. (you can find  
some older rated oils in some parts stores and stations as well).   
Hagerty Insurance this month has a article in their publication.  An  
API spokesperson says that the 800 ppm level of current SM oils is  
sufficient to protect flat tappet engines.

That being said,  they list some alternatives.

Shell (shell.us/views/consumers.html)  & Chevron (chevron.com/ 
products/extramile)  have 1000 ppm.

Valvoline VR1 Racing - 1300 PPM
Castrol Syntec 20/50 1200 ppm
Red LInes oils 1300 ppm
Brad Penn grade 1 racing oil - 1500 ppm
Classic Car Motor oil  (classiccarmotoroil.com)  1500-1600 ppm



How Much Zdp Is Enough?

Document Number: 2004-01-2986

Date Published: October 2004

Author(s):
Robert M. Olree - General Motors Corp.
Michael L. McMillan - General Motors Corp.

Abstract:
Zinc dithiophosphate, or ZDP, for over 60 years has been used as an  
additive in engine oils to provide wear protection and oxidation  
stability in an efficient and cost-effective manner. Unfortunately,  
ZDP contains phosphorus, and phosphorus is a widely known and  
accepted poison of automotive catalysts and other emissions system  
components. Because of this, phosphorus (and ZDP) levels in  
automotive engine oils have been gradually reduced by about 35% over  
the last 10-15 years, and further reductions are likely in the  
future. This paper traces the history of ZDP use in automotive engine  
oils, and addresses the issue of how much (if any) ZDP is actually  
required to provide wear protection in today's, as well as  
yesterday's, engines. The focus in the paper is on wear (including  
scuffing) protection, and not on the other aspects of ZDP  
performance, such as providing oxidation stability of the oil. It is  
assumed that these other functions of ZDP can be provided by other  
ashless and phosphorus-free additives which do not negatively affect  
emissions system performance.

File Size: 4137K
Product Status: In Stock

See other papers presented at 2004 Powertrain & Fluid Systems  
Conference & Exhibition, October 2004, Tampa, FL, USA, Session: Light  
Duty Engine Oils (Part C)

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 10 03:51:23 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 02:51:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <1D1D928F-98AD-40A1-8352-067B460DCD04@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <315058.17922.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Sorry about that Mike. I was too tired when I wrote that and knew it was not
one of my stellar emails. It was one of those that you knew as you hit the
send button, you were going to regret it. :-)
Carl

--- On Wed, 9/10/08, Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
To: "French Carl" <leylandauto at yahoo.com>, "mgs mgs" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 10, 2008, 1:01 AM



Jeez Carl,  You've put me in a bad spot by "correcting" some of my anti-zddp
heresy but you have completely misread and misattributed what I wrote.   I
agree with your comments about inaccurate information but your taking my
comments out of context of the original articles and are guilty of what you
are accusing me of.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 10 09:21:29 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:21:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>

   This whole issue torques my jaws!  I've been building engines for 
more years than I care to remember and never used "break-in oil."  I 
always used good quality oil and let the engine tolerances dictate what 
viscosity to pour in there.  Fer instance, if I did a ring,valve and 
bearing rebuild and could put std bearings back in, the engine didn't 
need thinner oil than usual.  Shux, it came out of there after the first 
thousand miles, anyhoo.  New rebuilds with turned cranks and rebored 
holes built to tight tolerances got thinner oil to begin with.  Sheesh, 
break-in oil, for sooth.

   I know it's a different world today, ON NEW CARS, as far as which 
oils come in them.  However, I bought a Ford P/U last year and it came 
with a 5W-20 dino/syn blend in the engine.  The same stuff went back in 
there on the first oil change.  No dedicated "break-in" oil.  That 
stuff's a scam, IMO.

   As far as engineering studies go, I believe you have to consider the 
source.  IOW, who funded the study?  If oil provider "A" funded the 
study are the engineers going to bite the hand that signs their 
paycheck?  Gawd, it's all smoke and mirrors.

   My B gets the Valvoline, mainly because it's available locally.

   CR







Mike Duvall wrote:
> A lot of older, motorcycle, diesel (CI-4) and racing oils have ZDDP  
> along with a number of brands. Some people worry about diesel oils  
> but some meet diesel and gas standards.  Royal Purple sells a break  
> in oil and then recommends standard oils.
> 
> I personally am not worried about it the issue.  (I suspect the  
> problems are really from using synthetic instead of break in oil)    

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 10 11:36:17 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 12:36:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil  -
In-Reply-To: <48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
	<48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <F039551A-3BD8-4C1A-94C7-6098554B0C72@sbcglobal.net>

Don't blame me, I vote Republican!  Put ZDDP back in our oil!  :)      
if you want a primary source go here:  http://www.aera.org/ep/ 
techbulls.html publication TB2333R.pdf  from Nov. 2007

Note the rebuilders association say the problem is during breaking  
(although feel free to go buy over priced "classic car oil")

"That reduction has greatly increased the potential for cam lobe  
failure during engine break-in."   http://www.aera.org/ep/ 
techbulls.html publication TB2333R.pdf  from Nov. 2007

Small engine manufactures who still use flat tappets like Briggs and  
Stratton ship and break in with organics and then switch to synthetics.

Mike :)  Evil polluter with my smoking British car who doesn't  
believe urban myths :)

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 10 13:02:45 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:02:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil  -
In-Reply-To: <F039551A-3BD8-4C1A-94C7-6098554B0C72@sbcglobal.net>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
	<48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>
	<F039551A-3BD8-4C1A-94C7-6098554B0C72@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <48C819D5.7030403@ktc.com>

   I could tell you had a character flaw! (BG)

   CR

Mike Duvall wrote:
> Don't blame me, I vote Republican!  

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Sep 10 14:26:37 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 16:26:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
	<48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <E1KdWVx-0005ju-KR@delta.look.ca>

Going back over the many cars I have bought I have never been 
told,advised, manualised or similar to use break in oil. This applies 
to rebuilt engines as well.  The only thing I have been advised by 
trusty engine people in the trade to do is.....take it easy for a 
while  - no immediate broom broom !!


At 11:21 AM 9/10/2008, Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>    This whole issue torques my jaws!  I've been building engines for
>more years than I care to remember and never used "break-in oil."  I
>always used good quality oil and let the engine tolerances dictate what
>viscosity to pour in there.  Fer instance, if I did a ring,valve and
>bearing rebuild and could put std bearings back in, the engine didn't
>need thinner oil than usual.  Shux, it came out of there after the first
>thousand miles, anyhoo.  New rebuilds with turned cranks and rebored
>holes built to tight tolerances got thinner oil to begin with.  Sheesh,
>break-in oil, for sooth.
>
>    I know it's a different world today, ON NEW CARS, as far as which
>oils come in them.  However, I bought a Ford P/U last year and it came
>with a 5W-20 dino/syn blend in the engine.  The same stuff went back in
>there on the first oil change.  No dedicated "break-in" oil.  That
>stuff's a scam, IMO.
>
>    As far as engineering studies go, I believe you have to consider the
>source.  IOW, who funded the study?  If oil provider "A" funded the
>study are the engineers going to bite the hand that signs their
>paycheck?  Gawd, it's all smoke and mirrors.
>
>    My B gets the Valvoline, mainly because it's available locally.
>
>    CR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Mike Duvall wrote:
> > A lot of older, motorcycle, diesel (CI-4) and racing oils have ZDDP
> > along with a number of brands. Some people worry about diesel oils
> > but some meet diesel and gas standards.  Royal Purple sells a break
> > in oil and then recommends standard oils.
> >
> > I personally am not worried about it the issue.  (I suspect the
> > problems are really from using synthetic instead of break in oil)
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Wed Sep 10 15:41:13 2008
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 17:41:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
	<48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <005201c9138d$f2ca9910$d85fcb30$@com>

There have been issues in aircraft engines where the synthetic oil is so
"slippery" that the rings never seat in the cylinders, causing very high oil
consumption. Most manufactures/rebuilders specify a specific oil for the
first hours of operation plus specific operating procedures for the same
reason.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Charles & Peggy Robinson
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 11:21 AM
To: Mike Duvall
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil

   This whole issue torques my jaws!  I've been building engines for 
more years than I care to remember and never used "break-in oil."  

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 10 15:51:18 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:51:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <005201c9138d$f2ca9910$d85fcb30$@com>
Message-ID: <924683.77640.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've heard that too Stephen.  The advice used to be to never use synthetic in a newly rebuilt engine.  The again, the first synthetic oils leaked pretty badly in old cars.  Since then, the makers have reformulated synthetics so that they seal better.  Rememberm paper gasket seals seal when swolen with fluids.  The first synthetics didn't adequately wet the gaskets (or swell seals).

Modern oils don't break down like ancient oils did.  Still, its still MHO that the best solution is to use the oil originally intended and change it often to throw away the debris that it collects.  I use 20W50 Castrol GTX and change the filter with every change.  Something like 5000 mile intervals.

rick


--- On Wed, 9/10/08, Stephen West-fisher <steve at coastaldatasystems.com> wrote:

> From: Stephen West-fisher <steve at coastaldatasystems.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, September 10, 2008, 4:41 PM
> There have been issues in aircraft engines where the
> synthetic oil is so
> "slippery" that the rings never seat in the
> cylinders, causing very high oil
> consumption. Most manufactures/rebuilders specify a
> specific oil for the
> first hours of operation plus specific operating procedures
> for the same
> reason.
> 
> --
> Stephen West-Fisher
> Coastal Data Systems
> 727.599.4271
> http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf
> Of Charles & Peggy Robinson
> Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 11:21 AM
> To: Mike Duvall
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
> 
>    This whole issue torques my jaws!  I've been
> building engines for 
> more years than I care to remember and never used
> "break-in oil."  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From awhitema at panix.com  Wed Sep 10 16:08:57 2008
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:08:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <924683.77640.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <924683.77640.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C408BA39-2797-4994-BA36-A8ACDF01A293@panix.com>

On Sep 10, 2008, at 2:51 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Modern oils don't break down like ancient oils did.  Still, its  
> still MHO that the best solution is to use the oil originally  
> intended and change it often to throw away the debris that it  
> collects.  I use 20W50 Castrol GTX and change the filter with every  
> change.  Something like 5000 mile intervals.

There is the key to the whole debate.

The Castrol GTX I can buy today is NOT the same as the GTX I bought 10  
years ago.

For years, I've bought GTX 20-50 or 10-30 depending on the season.  I  
changed it every 3000 miles or 6 months, whichever came first.   
Typically, this meant a change in March, July, and November.

 From what I've read, the current formulation of 10-30 is bad news for  
my car, the 20-50 is just barely ok-ish.  I'll be switching to  
something that advertises higher levels of ZDDP, and continue to run  
Castrol GTX 5-30 in my Subaru (where the SM formula is appropriate).

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/
  '75 MGB (in pieces), HIF4 carbs
  '06 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Sep 10 16:53:13 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 17:53:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <924683.77640.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <924683.77640.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9869BA88-FFE2-4908-B7D3-2FFB2313F6B2@gmail.com>

If you read in the Castrol pages, in the Myths and Facts, they'll say  
that the need for break in oil or not using Synthetic
is a myth. Also, a myth that you can't go back.

On Sep 10, 2008, at 4:51 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> I've heard that too Stephen.  The advice used to be to never use  
> synthetic in a newly rebuilt engine.  The again, the first synthetic  
> oils leaked pretty badly in old cars.  Since then, the makers have  
> reformulated synthetics so that they seal better.  Rememberm paper  
> gasket seals seal when swolen with fluids.  The first synthetics  
> didn't adequately wet the gaskets (or swell seals).
>
> Modern oils don't break down like ancient oils did.  Still, its  
> still MHO that the best solution is to use the oil originally  
> intended and change it often to throw away the debris that it  
> collects.  I use 20W50 Castrol GTX and change the filter with every  
> change.  Something like 5000 mile intervals.
>
> rick

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 10 17:11:55 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 16:11:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <9869BA88-FFE2-4908-B7D3-2FFB2313F6B2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <596386.14223.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yep.  We're just repeating urban legends.  Truth is:
 
- An engine needs some oil.  
- It needs to be changed at some reasonable interval.
- Filter too.
- That's about all one really needs to know.

rick

--- On Wed, 9/10/08, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
> To: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
> Cc: "Stephen West-fisher" <steve at coastaldatasystems.com>, "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, September 10, 2008, 5:53 PM
> If you read in the Castrol pages, in the Myths and Facts,
> they'll say  
> that the need for break in oil or not using Synthetic
> is a myth. Also, a myth that you can't go back.
> 
> On Sep 10, 2008, at 4:51 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:
> 
> > I've heard that too Stephen.  The advice used to
> be to never use  
> > synthetic in a newly rebuilt engine.  The again, the
> first synthetic  
> > oils leaked pretty badly in old cars.  Since then, the
> makers have  
> > reformulated synthetics so that they seal better. 
> Rememberm paper  
> > gasket seals seal when swolen with fluids.  The first
> synthetics  
> > didn't adequately wet the gaskets (or swell
> seals).
> >
> > Modern oils don't break down like ancient oils
> did.  Still, its  
> > still MHO that the best solution is to use the oil
> originally  
> > intended and change it often to throw away the debris
> that it  
> > collects.  I use 20W50 Castrol GTX and change the
> filter with every  
> > change.  Something like 5000 mile intervals.
> >
> > rick

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Sep 10 17:45:24 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 18:45:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <005201c9138d$f2ca9910$d85fcb30$@com>
References: <mailman.781.1220942088.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
	<48C7E5F9.60407@ktc.com> <005201c9138d$f2ca9910$d85fcb30$@com>
Message-ID: <48C85C14.9030807@gmail.com>

Stephen West-fisher wrote:
> There have been issues in aircraft engines where the synthetic oil is so
> "slippery" that the rings never seat in the cylinders, causing very high oil
> consumption. Most manufactures/rebuilders specify a specific oil for the
> first hours of operation plus specific operating procedures for the same
> reason.
Dad was a pipeline patrol pilot; he got the Bon Ami trick from aircraft mechanics.

-The Roxter
--

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Sep 10 21:42:48 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 21:42:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <48C85C14.9030807@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIELODHAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Dad was a pipeline patrol pilot; he got the Bon Ami trick from aircraft
mechanics.

-The Roxter>>

That must be akin to 'The Roxter' PAYS his July 2nd Invoice by at least
September 2nd, right???  MYTH<F>.

Enquiring minds NEED to know.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Sep 11 06:02:07 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:02:07 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Handbrake
Message-ID: <016b01c91407$1c3064f0$0200a8c0@Three>

I've long had a section on Brakes including the handbrake on my website
(http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_brakesframe.htm).  In 2007 someone wrote to me
saying if the levers inside the drum that the handbrake cable are attached to
are fitted to the wrong sides of the car the effect is to make the cable too
long and it can't be adjusted.  The writer said his were marked with the part
numbers (different for left and right) and also L & R.  Subsequently I checked
my levers and couldn't find any L & R.  They did have numbers but I didn't
look to see if they were the part numbers or not.  In July of this year
someone else wrote to me saying he had spotted in one of my photos showing the
orientation the shoes that his levers were the other way up to mine, i.e. on
the wrong sides, and putting them on the same sides as mine solved a
long-standing handbrake problem that neither he nor various other people had
been able to resolve.  I had never considered this situation before, so I
updated the web site with their findings.   In the last couple of weeks I have
heard from someone else saying he was confused as my photo showed them the
other way up to various manuals and web sites, which was something I hadn't
noticed before.  His were as shown in the manuals, and he was having problems.
Putting them as per my photo, i.e. the other way up to the manuals, resolved
his problems as well.  He also said that his levers didn't have any L & R
markings either, and although they had numbers stamped on them it was the same
number on both i.e. not the part numbers.

On closer investigation the Leyland Workshop Manual and Moss US do show the
levers on the wrong sides i.e. upside down, but they only show the Banjo axle.
If you look at the Moss Europe site it shows *both* axles, and it shows the
Salisbury/tube axle levers as being the other way up to the banjo axle levers.
At the moment I am unable to confirm whether on the banjo axle they should be
the other way up, but as Moss Europe agrees with the workshop manual I suspect
they should be.

The upshot is that on the Salisbury/tube axle the short lever that goes
through the back-plate must be *under* the long lever, as shown here
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/rearbrakes.htm (4th image, this page also shows
the correct orientation of shoes and springs, and a new-stock lever that had
to be ground down before it would allow the drum to be refitted).  Whereas on
the banjo axle the short lever must be *above* the long lever.

Note that to confuse things even further, the Leyland Parts Catalogue which
also shows both axles and has the short lever above for the banjo and below
for the Salisbury/tube axle, but has managed to get the left-hand levers shown
with the right-hand brake assembly!

PaulH.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Thu Sep 11 14:17:57 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 20:17:57 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] transmission input shaft info
Message-ID: <091120082017.18820.48C97CF50000C8330000498422155517249F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

   Greetings Fellow MGers.
Can anyone confirm or deny the input shaft of our MGs? For the 4 syncro unit I'm 
working with diamiter measurements of 15/16" 22 spline
   For the shaft that the clutch plate installs on.
TIA.
Eric in California.--
46 TC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra
So many cars, so little parking

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Sep 11 14:57:19 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:57:19 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] transmission input shaft info
In-Reply-To: <091120082017.18820.48C97CF50000C8330000498422155517249F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E96CE21@kb1.mossmotors.com>

A/P Borg & Beck list the MGB clutch disc as 1" major diameter, 23
splines.





Kelvin


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of cyberemp at comcast.net
> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:18 PM
> To: MG LIST
> Subject: [Mgs] transmission input shaft info
>
>    Greetings Fellow MGers.
> Can anyone confirm or deny the input shaft of our MGs? For
> the 4 syncro unit I'm working with diamiter measurements of
> 15/16" 22 spline
>    For the shaft that the clutch plate installs on.
> TIA.
> Eric in California.--
> 46 TC
> 59 MGA
> 65 MGB
> 70 MGB
> 71 MGB
> 74.5 MGB
> 00 Nissan X-Terra
> So many cars, so little parking

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Thu Sep 11 16:18:34 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 18:18:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] carb flooding
Message-ID: <20080911181834.YWEOY.220060.imail@eastrmwml30>

I'm on the road with my 71 B when I noticed that the car was surging, I pulled over and noticed that the HS4 overflow line was spurting gas out of it's line, I took the cover off the float bowls and noticed that the front carb's  float bowl was half full of gasoline and the rear carb's bowl was full of gas to the point of overflowing, I checked the needle's in the float bowl the seemed free, I checked the float they moved freely, I replaced everything and the car seems to be running fine again, any suggestions or comments?

71 MGB currently in the mountains of North Caroline

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Sep 11 17:39:53 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (JAMES F JUHAS)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 16:39:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] carb flooding
In-Reply-To: <20080911181834.YWEOY.220060.imail@eastrmwml30>
Message-ID: <828941.29787.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dirt in needle valve.  Just had this happen.  Found a piece of flakey stuff in the valve.

Bernd wrote:
> I'm on the road with my 71 B when I noticed that the car was surging, I pulled over and noticed that the HS4 overflow line was spurting gas out of it's line, I took the cover off the float bowls and noticed that the front carb's  float bowl was half full of gasoline and the rear carb's bowl was full of gas to the point of overflowing, I checked the needle's in the float bowl the seemed free, I checked the float they moved freely, I replaced everything and the car seems to be running fine again, any suggestions or comments?
> 71 MGB currently in the mountains of North Caroline
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Sep 11 18:11:05 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 19:11:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] carb flooding
In-Reply-To: <20080911181834.YWEOY.220060.imail@eastrmwml30>
References: <20080911181834.YWEOY.220060.imail@eastrmwml30>
Message-ID: <48C9B399.7010105@gmail.com>

Bernd wrote:
> I'm on the road with my 71 B when I noticed that the car was surging, I pulled over and noticed that the HS4 overflow line was spurting gas out of it's line, I took the cover off the float bowls and noticed that the front carb's  float bowl was half full of gasoline and the rear carb's bowl was full of gas to the point of overflowing, I checked the needle's in the float bowl the seemed free, I checked the float they moved freely, I replaced everything and the car seems to be running fine again, any suggestions or comments?
Possibly a very small stone in the works somewhere, that got lost when you disassembled it.

-The Roxter
--

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep 12 02:05:00 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 09:05:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] carb flooding
References: <20080911181834.YWEOY.220060.imail@eastrmwml30>
Message-ID: <009b01c914af$6f734f30$0200a8c0@Three>

Disconnect the power to the fuel pump and run the engine to empty the float
bowls.  Reconnect power to the fuel pump and turn on the ignition.  The
resulting flood of fuel through the now wide-open float valves may well wash
any specs of out.  If you get no more overflows then all well and good.  If it
happens again after a period of correct running, maybe there is dirt in the
fuel i.e. rust from the tank, or maybe the float valve is on its way out.  If
it floods immediately either you have a sudden and very bad dirt problem
(which should show debris in the bottom of the float chambers), the float
valve is worn out and needs replacing, or the float is punctured and partially
filled with fuel.

If you replace the valves don't be tempted to get Grose jets, go for
Viton-tipped needles.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  I'm on the road with my 71 B when I noticed that the car was surging, I
pulled over and noticed that the HS4 overflow line was spurting gas out of
it's line...

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep 12 02:18:30 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 09:18:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] transmission input shaft info
References: <091120082017.18820.48C97CF50000C8330000498422155517249F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00c601c914b3$a1b8bcb0$0200a8c0@Three>

FWIW I've measured my alignment tool, which I have just used to replace a
clutch and it was a snug fit, at 0.967" maximum diameter and 23 splines.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Can anyone confirm or deny the input shaft of our MGs? For the 4 syncro unit
I'm
  working with diamiter measurements of 15/16" 22 spline

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 12 05:04:30 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 04:04:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Hurricane Ike
Message-ID: <931888.10634.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Rick Lindsay, if you haven't left Houston, keep your head down and be safe! Looks like you're in for a bit of a blow....

Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 12 07:20:13 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 06:20:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Hurricane Ike
In-Reply-To: <931888.10634.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <117796.13983.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks Dan.  This storm is a real pisser.  I'm in Kansas City waiting for a flight to Chicago!  My wife is in Houston. :-(  Fortunately, we live about 30 miles NW of Houston, near Tomball, and are in a new(ish) home.  We (she) should be fine.  I finish a lecture tour this afternoon but as HOU and IAH are both closed, I can't get home until either Saturday night or some time Sunday - if even then.

Add to that, the driver's window on Nancy's Land Rover chose this week to fail - in the down position.  We got it fixed but the vehicle wasn't back until last night.  It just added to the stress of the situation.  I forsee a trade-in in the near future.  Perhaps a BMW X3...

So, the bottom line is, NW Houston is (relatively) high ground and the house is strong.  We (she) should be fine.

Thanks so much for the concern.  Lots of folks there are in tougher situations than we are.  Lets hope Ike isn't as bad as the forecasters predict...

Rick

--- On Fri, 9/12/08, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Rick Lindsay, if you haven't left Houston, keep your
> head down and be safe! Looks like you're in for a bit of
> a blow....
> 
> Dan D

From eugeneb at nni.com  Fri Sep 12 07:42:19 2008
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 09:42:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP  and engine break - article in oil in Hot Rod Mag
In-Reply-To: <8DE5B6ED-D2A2-4DE2-8DEE-9A2218F25F72@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <web-136195641@admin.nni.com>

All,

   There is a short article on new engine break-in and ZDDP
(they call it ZDP) on Page 138 of Hot Rod Magazine for
November 2008.  Apparently the LBC crowd is not the only
auto community concerned with zinc, or lack there of.

Safety Fast,
   Gene Balinski
        80 B 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
http://www.nni.com/

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Fri Sep 12 09:27:59 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 10:27:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP in oil
In-Reply-To: <C408BA39-2797-4994-BA36-A8ACDF01A293@panix.com>
References: <924683.77640.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C408BA39-2797-4994-BA36-A8ACDF01A293@panix.com>
Message-ID: <48CA8A7F.3000501@ktc.com>

   Exactly!  That's why I won't be putting GTX 20W50 in my B's engine 
next oil change.  After all these years of using GTX I may have to watch 
out for withdrawal symptoms. (G)

   CR

Aaron Whiteman wrote:

> The Castrol GTX I can buy today is NOT the same as the GTX I bought 10  
> years ago.

From mjanacek at snet.net  Sat Sep 13 12:26:38 2008
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 14:26:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG TF LE500: The return of MG
Message-ID: <48CC05DE.50900@snet.net>

Interesting read:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/main.jhtml?xml=/motoring/2008/09/13/mfmg113.xml

Mike
'79B

From cat_tail at comcast.net  Sat Sep 13 12:55:18 2008
From: cat_tail at comcast.net (Rick deOlazarra)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 18:55:18 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP Oil Additive
Message-ID: <091320081855.9017.48CC0C960009F85200002339220700295304070E9BA19B0E0C@comcast.net>

I did searches on this subject until I was blue in the face and finally bought 
some of this stuff so I could just put it all behind me:

http://www.zddpoiladditive.com/index.html

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Sat Sep 13 13:19:56 2008
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 15:19:56 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MG TF LE500: The return of MG
Message-ID: <d0c.38d3ae7a.35fd6c5c@aol.com>

Hi Mike...
I sort of like the front end treatment looks sort of retro  looking!
Albert Escalante-CCBCC-Left Coast USA

On 9-13-2008 mjanacek at snet.net wrote to inform us of an "Interesting  read:
_http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/main.jhtml?xml=/motoring/2008/09/13/mfmg1
13.xml_ 
(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/main.jhtml?xml=/motoring/2008/09/13/mfmg113.xml) 

Mike
'79B
 



**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.      
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sat Sep 13 14:18:02 2008
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 15:18:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG TF LE500: The return of MG
In-Reply-To: <48CC05DE.50900@snet.net>
References: <48CC05DE.50900@snet.net>
Message-ID: <48CC1FFA.5040706@wi.net>

Mike Janacek wrote:
> Interesting read:
> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/main.jhtml?xml=/motoring/2008/09/13/mfmg113.xml
>
> Mike
> '79B
A quote from the article:  "instrument pack has been replaced with a new 
electronic unit sourced from *Magneti Marelli* in *China*."

VERY, very, scary! ;-)

Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Burlington WI

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 13 18:01:36 2008
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 17:01:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
Message-ID: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I was heading out for an MG club event this morning
(beautiful indian summer here in the Pacific Northwest)
and I got about 200 feet up the driveway and the engine
just died.  No warning, just stopped like you'd turned
off the key.  No spark. I'm suspecting it's the coil
because there is no spark when you separate the
points (indicating a shorted condenser, yes?), there
is pulsed 12V going into the low-voltage winding, and
nothing coming out of the high voltage winding.  The
high voltage side reads 9K Ohms and the low voltage
side reads dead short.  Is it common for a coil to
just "up and die" this way with no warning?  It's a
Lucas DLB-101.  Thanks for any tips.

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 13 19:58:30 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 18:58:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Rick, Nancy and Hurricane Ike
Message-ID: <562122.85251.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,

The Lindsays have survived Hurricane Ike with little more than some soggy carpet - but many others in our community are far less lucky.  Nancy had to ride thise storm out on her own as I was stuck in Chicago (with Houston's airports closed).  All of our cars are untouched.

Please keep our less fortunate neighbors in your thoughts and if so inclined, in your prayers.

Rick / Houston but writing tonight from Chicago

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 13 20:28:38 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 19:28:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Rick, Nancy and Hurricane Ike
Message-ID: <309582.55846.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Glad to hear all is okay with you and your family. I'm sure it was difficult for you to be away during this event....

Also glad the cars are okay!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: MGS <mgs at autox.team.net>; ferrari <ferrari at ferrarilist.com>; IPOG <ponton at yahoogroups.com>; sl <Mercedes_Benz_SL at yahoogroups.com>; disco disco <disco2owners at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 9:58:30 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Rick, Nancy and Hurricane Ike

Hello Friends,

The Lindsays have survived Hurricane Ike with little more than some soggy carpet - but many others in our community are far less lucky.  Nancy had to ride thise storm out on her own as I was stuck in Chicago (with Houston's airports closed).  All of our cars are untouched.

Please keep our less fortunate neighbors in your thoughts and if so inclined, in your prayers.

Rick / Houston but writing tonight from Chicago
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Sep 13 22:25:56 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 23:25:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080914042600.50AA918764C@autox.team.net>

At 05:01 PM 9/13/2008 -0700, David Breneman wrote:
>.... got about 200 feet up the driveway and the engine just 
>died.  .... like you'd turned off the key.  No spark.

Good start.  That narrows it down to an ignition problem.

>I'm suspecting it's the coil because there is no spark when you 
>separate the points (indicating a shorted condenser, yes?),

Maybe.  It is unusual for a condenser to short out instantly.  When 
it was working, a condenser will usually go from bad to worse in 10 
minutes or so, getting to the point where it has no power and 
backfires so bad you cannot drive it.  But usually not instantly dead.

>there is pulsed 12V going into the low-voltage winding,

If it is pulsing that means the points are opening and closing, and 
the condenser is not shorted out.  It also means there is a complete 
circuit through the primary winding of the coil, not open circuit.

>and nothing coming out of the high voltage winding.

(No spark).

>The high voltage side reads 9K Ohms

Close enough.

>and the low voltage side reads dead short.

Not good.  Primary winding should measure about 3.2 ohms (or a little 
lower for a high energy coil).  You need a low resistance range on 
the ohm meter to measure this.  Disconnect wire(s) on one of the 
primary terminals and measure resistance again.  If it is dead short 
(0 ohms), the coil is toast.

>Is it common for a coil to just "up and die" this way with no 
>warning?  It's a Lucas DLB-101.  ....
>....

Not so likely, but possible.  Coils also usually fail in a progresive 
mode, producing progressively weaker spark until it won't run.  A 
failing coil will commonly be temperature sensitive, failing when hot 
but possibly recovering when cool.

Review trouble shoting here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig106.htm
Testing coil here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig108.htm

With good condenser you should get 1/4-inch blue spark in open air.
With bad condenser (open circuit) you might get 1/32-inch orange spark.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sat Sep 13 23:36:03 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 22:36:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <20080914042600.50AA918764C@autox.team.net>
References: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20080914042600.50AA918764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200809132236y32e8230csdbe317b6ce557b23@mail.gmail.com>

Barney,

When I worked at Lucas (some 30 years ago), I was told that the spec
for winding the secondary of ignition coils allowed two or three
breaks, with the ends just twisted together. This could lead to a
secondary winding that would measure as open circuit when tested with
a meter, but able to conduct current perfectly well when there is 30KV
available. At the point that the wires were twisted together, it will
only take ~100 V to break down the insulation after which current will
flow.

I realize that this makes investigating possible failed ignition coils
rather more difficult.

Regards,
Simon

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Sep 14 09:31:23 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 16:31:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
References: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c91681$e18a9dc0$0200a8c0@Three>

Ordinarily I'd ask what the tach and ignition warning light did when this
happened, but if you were in a driveway you probably weren't going that fast
and the engine and car stopped pretty-well instantly.  Normally on the open
road if you look at the tach while the forward momentum of the car is still
spinning the engine, if the tach is still registering the problem is HT or
fuel.  If the tach has dropped to zero then look at the ignition warning
light, and if that is still dark (and it normally works as it should) that
indicates the problem is in the ignition LT somewhere i.e. coil, points,
distributor ground wire or connections.  If the warning light is glowing then
the ignition has lost its feed from the ignition switch.

If flicking the points open shows no spark then either the condenser *is*
shorted, or there is no 12v feed through the coil.  But if you can see pulsed
12v going into the coil (how?) as you flick open the points that means there
*is* a 12v feed through the coil, and the condenser *isn't* short, which begs
the question why aren't the points sparking?  If you really did measure the
coil primary as a dead short, and not simply too low a resistance for the
meter, then if a chrome bumper i.e. 12v coil I'd expect much arcing at the
points and a harness getting very hot as there would effectively be a
full-short on the white circuit.  But if a rubber bumper i.e. 6v coil the
harness ballast will limit the current to a safe-ish level (which would still
cause that part of the harness to get hot eventually) but because there would
be no inductive effect from the coil there would be little or no sparking from
the points.

Many things do up and die, and a coil can be among them, but they more often
fail open-circuit.  That would result in no arcing at the points or HT spark,
but no pulsed 12v going into the coil either, just a steady 12v, and that is
on both 12v and 6v systems.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----


  I was heading out for an MG club event this morning
  (beautiful indian summer here in the Pacific Northwest)
  and I got about 200 feet up the driveway and the engine
  just died.  No warning, just stopped like you'd turned
  off the key.  No spark.

From muses at cableone.net  Sun Sep 14 10:14:58 2008
From: muses at cableone.net (Todd Mullins)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 11:14:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Best quality rubber parts?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F007DC89-E7A6-43AD-AFFD-691253B560D6@cableone.net>

Hi all,

I'm finally reassembling the '74, after a ten-year hiatus.  I need to  
order various rubber bits - window and windscreen seals, engine hoses,  
fuel neck grommets, etc. - and I'm wondering who has the best quality  
pieces?  I've had some problems in the past - the distant past, mind  
you - with aftermarket rubber falling apart after a couple of years,  
and I don't care to repeat that experience.  I don't know if the  
quality of aftermarket rubber has improved recently, or if there might  
be a supplier that stocks OEM pieces still.  Anyone?  Kelvin?

Thanks,

Todd Mullins
'74 MGB Tourer back from the body shop

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Sep 14 10:29:16 2008
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 10:29:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Best quality rubber parts?
In-Reply-To: <F007DC89-E7A6-43AD-AFFD-691253B560D6@cableone.net>
References: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<F007DC89-E7A6-43AD-AFFD-691253B560D6@cableone.net>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F03C72DB1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Depends on the parts. I use Macgregor when quality/fit is an issue. This
would be mostly for window and door seals in particular. The fit is
better but the cost is a bit higher than Moss or a Moss reseller.

http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com

He is located in Canada if that matters. Hoses and grommets I still get
from Moss resellers (LBCarco, Just Brits).

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Todd Mullins
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 10:15 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Best quality rubber parts?

Hi all,

I'm finally reassembling the '74, after a ten-year hiatus.  I need to
order various rubber bits - window and windscreen seals, engine hoses,
fuel neck grommets, etc. - and I'm wondering who has the best quality
pieces?  I've had some problems in the past - the distant past, mind
you - with aftermarket rubber falling apart after a couple of years,
and I don't care to repeat that experience.  I don't know if the
quality of aftermarket rubber has improved recently, or if there might
be a supplier that stocks OEM pieces still.  Anyone?  Kelvin?

Thanks,

Todd Mullins
'74 MGB Tourer back from the body shop

From palte at gmx.net  Sun Sep 14 12:22:49 2008
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 20:22:49 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080914182335.2CD0A187872@autox.team.net>

Hi David,

Many years ago, I have come across a similar problem, where the cause was
a shortcut from a wire (running from the the CB points to the
connector at the outside of the distributor) to ground.

I don't immediately recall what car it was, however.


Bert



>and I got about 200 feet up the driveway and the engine
>just died.  No warning, just stopped like you'd turned
>off the key.  No spark. I'm suspecting it's the coil

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 14 15:59:48 2008
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 14:59:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: Re:  Mode of failure for ignition coil
Message-ID: <398440.30468.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Sun, 9/14/08, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:


> If flicking the points open shows no spark then either the
> condenser *is* shorted, or there is no 12v feed through the
> coil. 

My understanding is that in a circuit like this, the condenser
is there to prevent arcing at the contacts.  The condenser takes
over the load from the air gap.  I was looking at this in
bright daylight, so if there was a small spark I would not have
seen it.  

> If you really did measure the coil primary as a
> dead short, and not simply too low a resistance for the
> meter, 

Barney mentioned this as well.  I'll need to measure it
again with an electronic meter.  It very well could have 
been just very low resistance.

> But if a rubber bumper...

Definitely chrome bumper.  I don't think there were
any rubber bumper MGAs.  :-)

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sun Sep 14 16:30:00 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 17:30:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: Re:  Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <398440.30468.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <398440.30468.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48CD9068.9040607@gmail.com>

David Breneman wrote:
> --- On Sun, 9/14/08, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>   
>> If flicking the points open shows no spark then either the
>> condenser *is* shorted, or there is no 12v feed through the
>> coil. 
>>     
>
> My understanding is that in a circuit like this, the condenser
> is there to prevent arcing at the contacts.  The condenser takes
> over the load from the air gap.  I was looking at this in
> bright daylight, so if there was a small spark I would not have
> seen it. 
I was taught in electronics school that the condenser is required to create a "tank" circuit, not just for arcing control. The combination of a capacitor and a coil creates the storage of the energy that provides the spark when the circuit is interrupted.

-The Roxter
--

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Sep 14 21:35:00 2008
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 21:35:00 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Another MGA movie
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F03C72DBE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I was watching this movie a few days ago which actually had a fair bit
of MGA footage. Granted it was a bad movie which means extended driving
scenes. The movie was called "Samson versus the Vampire Women". Check
this picture near the end of the movie where Samson jumps into the MGA
and drives off:



http://www.msubillings.edu/dc/samson_mga.jpg



More details on this classic Mexican film:



http://www.horror-wood.com/salsa.htm



David Councill

67 BGT

72 B

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 14 23:32:04 2008
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 22:32:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
References: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<001a01c91681$e18a9dc0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <A18C3A7001B14CB585FA8622CC608D84@XPS400>

Paul,

I have a question about the coil on my 66MGB.  After a recent rebuild of the 
engine I installed a new "stock" coil purchased from Moss.  I immediately 
noticed that my electric tack started jumping all over the place when the 
RPMs got over 2000.  The car seemed to run ok.  I carefully checked the 
wires and connections, including tracing the full lenth of the white wire 
which passes through the loop holder on the tack between the ignition switch 
and the coil.  I found no obvious problems with the wire.  So,  I replaced 
the new coil with the original one which must have been in the car for many 
years and the problem with the tack disappeared.
Is seems like it was just a bad new coil or should I be looking some place 
else?
Ron 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 15 02:11:35 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 09:11:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: Re:  Mode of failure for ignition coil
References: <398440.30468.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00c301c9170e$c583cce0$0200a8c0@Three>

In my experience you can both hear and see the arcing at the contacts on a
good system, but of course circumstances can vary.  When the condenser has
failed open-circuit the arcing is very obvious, if in doubt compare it with
the amount of arcing you get if you tap the distributor to coil wire on and
off the coil terminal (it should arc much more than the points).  When the
condenser is short, or indeed if the wire between coil and points is open or
shorting to ground, there will be no sparking at all.  You can diagnose many
ignition LT problems by connecting a voltmeter to the points terminal on the
coil.  With the points closed you should see 0v, and with them open you should
see 12v.  If you see 0v all the time remove the distributor wire from the coil
and measure again.  If you still see zero volts then the coil is probably
open-circuit, or there is no 12v feed to the coil.  If the distributor
terminal on the coil *now* shows 12v either the condenser or the wire to the
distributor are shorted.  If you see 12v all the time, points open or closed,
the wire to the distributor is open-circuit.

The *primary* (ho ho) purpose of the condenser is not to quench the contacts
but to provide a tuned circuit for the coil to oscillate and give several
high-power pulses of HT in quick succession, without the condenser the spark
is very much weaker.  It is a by-product of this that because there has been
more energy directed into the HT, there is less left for arcing at the
points.

If you had said it was an MGA, then maybe I would have noticed it :o)

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  My understanding is that in a circuit like this, the condenser
  is there to prevent arcing at the contacts.  The condenser takes
  over the load from the air gap.  I was looking at this in
  bright daylight, so if there was a small spark I would not have
  seen it.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 15 02:25:49 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 09:25:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
References: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<001a01c91681$e18a9dc0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A18C3A7001B14CB585FA8622CC608D84@XPS400>
Message-ID: <00c601c9170e$c60224a0$0200a8c0@Three>

Ron - measure the primary resistance of the Moss coil, it should measure about
3 ohms.  If it measures about 1.5 ohms then it is a coil for a rubber bumper
MGB with 6v ballasted ignition system.  This will double the current in your
ignition system which could well affect the tach.  The other thing that can
affect the tachs fitted to 72 and earlier MGBs is if a Pertronix or similar
after-market electronic ignition system has been fitted.  But simply changing
the coil from one correct type to another correct type shouldn't cause that to
come and go, unless possibly the original coil is going high-resistance which
may damp the effects of the Pertronix, so measure your original coil as well
out of interest.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I have a question about the coil on my 66MGB.  After a recent rebuild of the
  engine I installed a new "stock" coil purchased from Moss.  I immediately
  noticed that my electric tack started jumping all over the place when the
  RPMs got over 2000.

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Mon Sep 15 03:00:50 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:00:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Best quality rubber parts?
In-Reply-To: <F007DC89-E7A6-43AD-AFFD-691253B560D6@cableone.net>
References: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<F007DC89-E7A6-43AD-AFFD-691253B560D6@cableone.net>
Message-ID: <9f2527520809150200y66c2c8e2x5685c99d1b56b5ce@mail.gmail.com>

Can't say for certain, but I'd be surprised if the unique pieces of rubber
were made by a wide range of manufacturers for you to choose from.  More
likely they are all made by the same place, regardless of where you buy them
from.  Generic stuff like fuel hose and door seals there probably is a
greater choice, but I don't have any particular pointers for those I'm
afraid.

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Sep 15 05:09:32 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 06:09:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: Re:  Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <398440.30468.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <398440.30468.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080915110944.EB7A2187655@autox.team.net>

At 02:59 PM 9/14/2008 -0700, David Breneman wrote:
>....
>My understanding is that in a circuit like this, the condenser is 
>there to prevent arcing at the contacts.  The condenser takes over 
>the load from the air gap.  I was looking at this in bright 
>daylight, so if there was a small spark I would not have seen it.
>....

In the ignition circuit the condenser does NOT surpress arcing at the 
points.  Condenser is actually a capacitor (just a difference of 
language dialect).  Correct value of capacitor will provide nearly 
equal plating of material in both directions across the points so you 
don't get material build up on one side.

The primary function of the condenser is to enhance the voltage (up 
to 300 volts in the primary winding) during current "ringing" after 
the points open to give a hotter spark.  This elevated primary 
voltage will give a visible spark at the contact points.  If you put 
your finger on the coil terminal leading to the distributor, or on 
the terminal on the side of the distributor while engine is running, 
you can get a noticeable electrical shock "tingle" from this fleeting 
elevated primary voltage.  See here: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig108.htm

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Sep 15 06:35:16 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 07:35:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Another MGA movie
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F03C72DBE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F03C72DBE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <42D0CCDC-DB5D-49BB-B477-4F6137EF4024@gmail.com>

I don't think I've seen that MiSTie! My kids are completely hooked on
them. So much so we have several MST3k DVDs. "Manos" and "Monsters a  
Go-go" were
watched over the weekend.

Now, I gotta go look for another DVD.

On Sep 14, 2008, at 10:35 PM, Councill, David wrote:

> I was watching this movie a few days ago which actually had a fair bit
> of MGA footage. Granted it was a bad movie which means extended  
> driving
> scenes. The movie was called "Samson versus the Vampire Women". Check
> this picture near the end of the movie where Samson jumps into the MGA
> and drives off:
>
>
>
> http://www.msubillings.edu/dc/samson_mga.jpg
>
>
>
> More details on this classic Mexican film:
>
>
>
> http://www.horror-wood.com/salsa.htm
>
>
>
> David Councill
>
> 67 BGT
>
> 72 B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Sep 15 09:18:27 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 11:18:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Best quality rubber parts?
In-Reply-To: <F007DC89-E7A6-43AD-AFFD-691253B560D6@cableone.net>
References: <mailman.319.1220536118.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<F007DC89-E7A6-43AD-AFFD-691253B560D6@cableone.net>
Message-ID: <E1KfG3r-0000kN-E5@zeta.look.ca>

I got the rubber spark plug covers for my 1955 Aston (under resto) 
from Metro Moulded Parts and was very impressed by quality.  So much 
so that although they are more money than others, I will try to get 
everything from them.  This means having to do some matching 
up.  http://www.metrommp.com

Also Martin Macgregor is very good

Other bits I get from local suppliers but with LBC and Moss one does 
get the bit that fits 99% of the time


At 12:14 PM 9/14/2008, Todd Mullins wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I'm finally reassembling the '74, after a ten-year hiatus.  I need to
>order various rubber bits - window and windscreen seals, engine hoses,
>fuel neck grommets, etc. - and I'm wondering who has the best quality
>pieces?  I've had some problems in the past - the distant past, mind
>you - with aftermarket rubber falling apart after a couple of years,
>and I don't care to repeat that experience.  I don't know if the
>quality of aftermarket rubber has improved recently, or if there might
>be a supplier that stocks OEM pieces still.  Anyone?  Kelvin?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Todd Mullins
>'74 MGB Tourer back from the body shop
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com  

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 15 09:59:44 2008
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:59:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: Re:  Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <00c301c9170e$c583cce0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <766962.73069.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Mon, 9/15/08, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> You can diagnose many ignition
> LT problems by connecting a voltmeter to the points terminal
> on the coil.  With the points closed you should see 0v, and
> with them open you should see 12v.

Tried this just now, got 0V both open and closed.

>  If you see 0v all the
> time remove the distributor wire from the coil and measure
> again.  If you still see zero volts then the coil is
> probably open-circuit, or there is no 12v feed to the coil. 

Also saw 0V with this test, but I also realized my original
"short" mistake - big dummy didn't disconnect the coil
before measuring the resistance!  :-P  With it disconnected,
it shows *open* on the primary winding.  D'oh!

So I'm thinking I had the right diagnosis but for the 
wrong reason.  That's worth partial credit, isn't it?
I'll try a new coil.  Thanks everyone for the help.

> If you had said it was an MGA, then maybe I would have
> noticed it :o)

Oh, the subtle but pervasive MGB prejudice that permeates
this list!  :-)

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Sep 15 14:56:09 2008
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:56:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ELVF this weekend
Message-ID: <003c01c91775$7cb32ee0$76198ca0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I will be at Road America this weekend, but won't be racing as I'd planned.
My 89 yr old Mom is having cancer surgery Fri. AM in IL, so I'll be down
there for the day.

 

I will be at the track Sat. & Sun. Road & Track's Peter Egan is the Guest of
Honor for the 50th Sprite Anniversary festivities. He'll be driving Walter,
http://www.thicko.com/Walter.htm in the street course recreation run, and as
the special pace car for the Sprite race. The car will also be at the Cars
on the Green show at the Osthoff following the street course run. My 18
piece big band will be the entertainment at the car show.. this takes place
between 5-7pm prior to the dinner. Please come by and say hello.

 

WST

 

More info at .

 

http://www.vscda.org/

 

http://www.raceelvf.org/

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 15 15:12:51 2008
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:12:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNOELLDJAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <757037.20908.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It was indeed the coil (open, not shorted).  Started right up on
the first pull after I replaced it.  Thanks again to all who
helped!

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Mon Sep 15 18:08:10 2008
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 20:08:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <20080914182335.2CD0A187872@autox.team.net>
References: <41620.65449.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20080914182335.2CD0A187872@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00b601c91790$4e17ec90$ea47c5b0$@com>

I'm more familiar with them opening on Land-Rovers when the wire breaks.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bert Palte
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 2:23 PM
To: david_breneman at yahoo.com
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mode of failure for ignition coil

Hi David,

Many years ago, I have come across a similar problem, where the cause was
a shortcut from a wire (running from the the CB points to the
connector at the outside of the distributor) to ground.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Sep 15 22:31:18 2008
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 23:31:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] ELVF this weekend
In-Reply-To: <003c01c91775$7cb32ee0$76198ca0$@com>
References: <003c01c91775$7cb32ee0$76198ca0$@com>
Message-ID: <48CF3696.7020109@wi.net>

Wm.,

Best of luck to your Mom, we'll be praying for her.
See you at ELVF.

Dave
59 :{)
Burlington WI


Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
> Hey y'all, 
>
> I will be at Road America this weekend, but won't be racing as I'd planned.
> My 89 yr old Mom is having cancer surgery Fri. AM in IL, so I'll be down
> there for the day. 
>
> I will be at the track Sat. & Sun. Road & Track's Peter Egan is the Guest of
> Honor for the 50th Sprite Anniversary festivities. He'll be driving Walter,
> http://www.thicko.com/Walter.htm in the street course recreation run, and as
> the special pace car for the Sprite race. The car will also be at the Cars
> on the Green show at the Osthoff following the street course run. My 18
> piece big band will be the entertainment at the car show.. this takes place
> between 5-7pm prior to the dinner. Please come by and say hello. 
>
> WST 
>
> More info at . 
>
> http://www.vscda.org/ 
>
> http://www.raceelvf.org/

From barnhart at geneseo.net  Thu Sep 18 10:43:46 2008
From: barnhart at geneseo.net (barnhart at geneseo.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 11:43:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Parts and more parts
Message-ID: <10970.1221756226@geneseo.net>

	  BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
Folks,

	I'm cleaning out the garage of old used parts.   I have lots of
servicable stuff from a 68 MGB donor car (no engine or tranny).  Let
me know what you need or I'll email you a list.  I also have a MGA
rotisserie, if anyone is interested.

	Regards,

	Chris  (309) 714-1420

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 18 12:45:31 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 11:45:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues
Message-ID: <73019.40838.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ok, after a couple of weeks of inactively, I went back to the '76 B with '75 engine. As a reminder, I am having 2 issues
currently.

1) The car won't start. When I initially tried a couple of weeks ago, it started and ran well (albeit with a bit of a high idle). After
     some research, I determined that it might be the engine ground not set up properly. My car has the ground strap on the
     rear engine (trans) mount. I had connected it to the engine mount bolt properly, but it was only tucked in between the
     rubber mount and crossmember. So last night, I corrected that, attaching the end to the bolt for the rubber mount on the
     outside of the crossmember.

2) When the car did run, in preparation for a run around the block, I stepped on the brake pedal and the engine died. I'm assuming
     a vacuum leak and in fact there appears to be a small crack oin the vacuum hose from the brake booster to the manifold.

That's the background. Last night, after fixing the ground strap, I went to try the car. Battery is freshly charged, and when I turned
the key, the fuel pump starting making noise - not the normal clicking but kind of a loud hum. But there was gas in the filter, so I
decided to try it. Car turned over fine but then there was what appeared to be a 'flash' from under the dash (a brief burst of light) and
I let go of the key. There was NO burning smell and NO evidence of wires smoking or being fused. The pump continued to hum.
I did not try and start it again.

Here is what the pump sounds like - 

http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view&current=P9170036.flv

It isn't really as loud as it sounds but it is audible. I dsmacked it with a hammer, no change.

Any ideas on the pump and that 'flash'? I am going to check the battery ground cable and fuses tonight, but am looking for
ideas.

I'm not worrying about the vacuum leak until I get the car running.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Sep 18 13:48:50 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 14:48:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues
In-Reply-To: <73019.40838.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <73019.40838.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080918194907.8C93218766C@autox.team.net>

At 11:45 AM 9/18/2008 -0700, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>.... '76 B with '75 engine. ....
>
>1) The car won't start. ....
>
>2) When the car did run, in preparation for a run around the block, 
>I stepped on the brake pedal and the engine died. I'm assuming a 
>vacuum leak and in fact there appears to be a small crack oin the 
>vacuum hose from the brake booster to the manifold.

Problem #1:  Vacuum leak in the internal diaphragm of that brake 
booster wouild do that (not the hose).   Pinch teh hose closed witha 
clamp and see if that problem goes away.  If so, then the booster 
needs to be rebuilt.

>.... the fuel pump starting making noise - not the normal clicking 
>but kind of a loud hum. .... Car turned over fine but then there was 
>what appeared to be a 'flash' from under the dash (a brief burst of 
>light) and I let go of the key. .... The pump continued to hum.....
>
>Here is what the pump sounds like -
>
>http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view&current=P9170036.flv
>....

Problem #2:  The flash under the dash may be a faulty switch or a 
loose wire on the ignition switch, 4-way flasher switch, or less 
likely the lighting switch.  This is not related to the other problems.

Problem #3:  Fuel pump is running very fast, usually means no fuel 
going through the pump.  This could be no fuel in the tank (kick me), 
clogged pickup pipe in the tank, clogged intake filter in the pump, 
hole in the pipe between tank pickup and pump sucking in air, or a 
ruptured diaphragm in the pump.

As odd as this may seem, I'm leaning toward the later.  That looks 
like  Walboro fuel pump (or one of the sister brands).  In 1989 I had 
two of those fail in quick succession because the rubber diaphragm 
was being disolved by 10% alcohol in the fuel.  This problem should 
have been resolved years ago, but if this pump is new old stock it 
may still be the issue.  Or if the pump is old but was never used 
with gasohol fuel before it may be finally failing now.

Disconnect the inlet pipe from the pump, connect a hose on the pump 
inlet, stick the hose in a can of fuel, and see if the pump works 
then (or not).  If it the works, look for a clog or leak before the 
pump.  If it doesn't work, drop it in the nearest trash can.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA wth an attitude
http://MGAguru,com

From frankk12 at verizon.net  Thu Sep 18 13:57:29 2008
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (frankk12 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 15:57:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Parts and more parts
References: <10970.1221756226@geneseo.net>
Message-ID: <A7D03630AA9C443BABEF4EC177F0037F@frankdcczr6l6k>

Where  are you?
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <barnhart at geneseo.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 12:43 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Parts and more parts


>   BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
> Folks,
> 
> I'm cleaning out the garage of old used parts.   I have lots of
> servicable stuff from a 68 MGB donor car (no engine or tranny).  Let
> me know what you need or I'll email you a list.  I also have a MGA
> rotisserie, if anyone is interested.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Chris  (309) 714-1420
> _______________________________________________

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 18 14:05:51 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:05:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues
Message-ID: <575147.4016.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Barney writes: 

> Problem #1:  Vacuum leak in the internal diaphragm of
> that brake booster wouild do that (not the hose).   
> Pinch teh hose closed with a clamp and see if that 
> problem goes away. 
 
 Let me add only this: A honkin' big pair of ViceGrips
 makes a good clamp.
 
 rick

From barnhart at geneseo.net  Thu Sep 18 14:32:40 2008
From: barnhart at geneseo.net (barnhart at geneseo.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 15:32:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Parts and More Parts
Message-ID: <20438.1221769960@geneseo.net>

  BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
 I should have mentioned I'm in Geneseo, IL  near the Quad Cities.
Apologize for that oversight.

From aekell at aol.com  Thu Sep 18 15:48:32 2008
From: aekell at aol.com (aekell at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 17:48:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Fornt wheel hub
Message-ID: <8CAE7EF6DDECC9D-D7C-24B2@WEBMAIL-MA09.sysops.aol.com>

I need a front hub for an MGA 1500 with steel wheels.? It does not have to be complete, I have the internal components. Attempting to get #38844 rolling again.

Alan

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep 19 02:11:56 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 09:11:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues
References: <73019.40838.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <010501c91a33$2b81a220$0200a8c0@Three>

2.  *In theory* if the hose between manifold and servo is split it will be
leaking air all the time, not just when the brake pedal is pushed.  That
implies a leak inside the servo, like the diaphragm which is flexed when the
pedal is operated.

The fuel pump sounds to me like a chattering SU that doesn't have any fuel in
it, but I'm not even sure if it *is* an SU from that angle and I'm unfamiliar
with other types of pump.

I can't think of anything normally behind the dash that would cause a flash,
unless one of the bulbs has fallen out of its holder.  There are no high
voltages to arc across, which only leaves a momentary (as there was no
apparent smoke or burning) short between a live wire and a ground.  That's the
most concerning, as if it *was* the cause and you can't find it soon it is
quite likely to happen again but next time short for longer which will burn
wires.  Fit a battery cut-off switch where you can reach it from the drivers
seat now!  Apart from that I'd gingerly turn on the ignition and crank again,
but this time while peering under the dash to see what is happening.  If you
don't have a cut-off switch then have everything handy to whip the ground
strap off the battery, as that will be the only thing stopping the car going
up in smoke if it is a brown wire shorting.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----


  2) When the car did run, in preparation for a run around the block, I
stepped on the brake pedal and the engine died. I'm assuming
       a vacuum leak and in fact there appears to be a small crack oin the
vacuum hose from the brake booster to the manifold.

  ...

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Sep 19 12:04:30 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:04:30 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues
Message-ID: <20080919.141202.992.10.MGBOB@juno.com>

Dan,
   Paul suggested a cut-off switch that you can reach immediately from
driver seat. 
   A Cole-Hersee master disconnect can be mounted in the bulkhead behind
passenger seat, in front of the battery. It's easy to reach when you are
in driver seat, and out of sight always.
Bob
____________________________________________________________
Get a degree in computer sciences.  Find a school near you.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mAUC6BoGtb6IJXahGl4yAIB1gDGdDqSaGaX9vD1MCWt7BPn/

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Sep 19 13:12:14 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:12:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues
In-Reply-To: <010501c91a33$2b81a220$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <73019.40838.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<010501c91a33$2b81a220$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <48D3F98E.9040700@gmail.com>

Paul Hunt wrote:
> 2.  *In theory* if the hose between manifold and servo is split it will be
> leaking air all the time, not just when the brake pedal is pushed.  That
> implies a leak inside the servo, like the diaphragm which is flexed when the
> pedal is operated.
>
> The fuel pump sounds to me like a chattering SU that doesn't have any fuel in
> it, but I'm not even sure if it *is* an SU from that angle and I'm unfamiliar
> with other types of pump.
>
> I can't think of anything normally behind the dash that would cause a flash,
> unless one of the bulbs has fallen out of its holder.  There are no high
> voltages to arc across, which only leaves a momentary (as there was no
> apparent smoke or burning) short between a live wire and a ground.  That's the
> most concerning, as if it *was* the cause and you can't find it soon it is
> quite likely to happen again but next time short for longer which will burn
> wires.  Fit a battery cut-off switch where you can reach it from the drivers
> seat now!  Apart from that I'd gingerly turn on the ignition and crank again,
> but this time while peering under the dash to see what is happening.  If you
> don't have a cut-off switch then have everything handy to whip the ground
> strap off the battery, as that will be the only thing stopping the car going
> up in smoke if it is a brown wire shorting.
Another possibility might be that the ignition light bulb has fallen out of the socket and momentarily made contact.

-The Roxter
--

From montejane at gmail.com  Fri Sep 19 17:28:11 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 18:28:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues
In-Reply-To: <48D3F98E.9040700@gmail.com>
References: <73019.40838.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<010501c91a33$2b81a220$0200a8c0@Three> <48D3F98E.9040700@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0809191628l14c198e8ic677036755a1855b@mail.gmail.com>

My fuel pump (79B) was doing the same thing a few weeks back. Car started
and ran a block then died (ran the carb bowls dry). Looked around fuel pump
and, alas the rubber fuel line had broken in half. Easy fix:).
I would HIGHLY recommend a battery cut off switch especially since our
batteries are so hard to get to.
Monte

On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 2:12 PM, The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote:

> Paul Hunt wrote:
> > 2.  *In theory* if the hose between manifold and servo is split it will
> be
> > leaking air all the time, not just when the brake pedal is pushed.  That
> > implies a leak inside the servo, like the diaphragm which is flexed when
> the
> > pedal is operated.
> >
> > The fuel pump sounds to me like a chattering SU that doesn't have any
> fuel in
> > it, but I'm not even sure if it *is* an SU from that angle and I'm
> unfamiliar
> > with other types of pump.
> >
> > I can't think of anything normally behind the dash that would cause a
> flash,
> > unless one of the bulbs has fallen out of its holder.  There are no high
> > voltages to arc across, which only leaves a momentary (as there was no
> > apparent smoke or burning) short between a live wire and a ground.
>  That's the
> > most concerning, as if it *was* the cause and you can't find it soon it
> is
> > quite likely to happen again but next time short for longer which will
> burn
> > wires.  Fit a battery cut-off switch where you can reach it from the
> drivers
> > seat now!  Apart from that I'd gingerly turn on the ignition and crank
> again,
> > but this time while peering under the dash to see what is happening.  If
> you
> > don't have a cut-off switch then have everything handy to whip the ground
> > strap off the battery, as that will be the only thing stopping the car
> going
> > up in smoke if it is a brown wire shorting.
> Another possibility might be that the ignition light bulb has fallen out of
> the socket and momentarily made contact.
>
> -The Roxter
> --
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 19 18:34:36 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:34:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re:  On-Going Issues
Message-ID: <713279.53922.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks to everyone for the replies, I have some good starting points.... Re: the fuel pump, I always assumed it was an SU - it
has not given me one lick of trouble since I bought the car in 1988! Hmmm, maybe that's a reason for it NOT to be an SU?! Anyway,
I am going to take a closer look at it tomorrow, see if it has a name on it. I'm also going to get a battery cut-off and install it 
before I try to start the car again. I'll also do the flow test (although I don't believe that is an issue as the fuel filter in the engine
bay is full of fuel (it's the clear variety). But I'll do it anyway to eliminate a possibility (assuming it's okay). I am also going to unhook
the brake assist hose (vacuum hose) and block the port in the manifold, see what that does. Any idea on the size of that port? I
don't want to permanently block it off. I am going to try to make one change and then try to start the car, to see what's what. Then
move on to the next item.

Not sure I will get to thisall over the week-end, as I have a toilet to install, bushes to prune and other fall items.....!

I'll report back with what I find. Thanks again to everyone that responded.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer
'65 MGB Tourer (Project)
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dans76b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From rshellen at comcast.net  Sat Sep 20 05:47:17 2008
From: rshellen at comcast.net (Ron Shellenberger)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 07:47:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] On- Going issues
Message-ID: <002301c91b16$a2116810$020fa8c0@RONWS>

Dan
That does look like a Walboro pump. There is a company in Texas that makes
rebuild kits for these. Very cheap and very easy to do. I don't remember the
site but I found them by a Google search.
I agree it sounds like no fuel in pump. Mine sounded the same, and was a
ruptured diaphram. took 5 min. to replace.

Ron Shellenberger

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Sat Sep 20 12:32:18 2008
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 14:32:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB pillar/vent window seal
Message-ID: <B7393A84-6C95-4B28-8374-841CD4697C8B@mgcarclub.com>

I was going to replace the seal on the  windshield pillar which meets  
the vent window frame. After struggling with the old one a bit, I  
discovered the aluminum retainer INSIDE the seal cavity attached with  
two screws. So, one installs the new seal, slides the retainer  
inside, puts two HOLES in the new seal, install screws and puts  
sealant on the holes. I can't imagine the need for for this. I think  
the channel retainer will be quite adequate. What have others done?

Allen Hess
71 MGB

From strovato at optonline.net  Sat Sep 20 17:13:06 2008
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 19:13:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re:  On-Going Issues
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1221933601.3814.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1221933601.3814.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0K7I005VQOIIJ0J0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

Dan,

I'm not so sure that seeing a full filter is really telling you what 
you think.  Even if you pinch off the fuel line completely, the fuel 
filter is still going to be full of fuel, unless there's a way for 
air to get in.  Fuel being present is not the same as fuel being able 
to flow.

-Steve Trovato
strovato at optonline.net


>I'll also do the flow test (although I don't believe that is an 
>issue as the fuel filter in the engine
>bay is full of fuel (it's the clear variety).

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Sep 21 08:55:24 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 00:25:24 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Competition suspension
Message-ID: <C36B667D-C225-4303-90E2-BB3732E2FF78@erickson.on.net>

Guys,

Just a quick and inexpert question.

Have a look at this shot of my car under (very) hard braking - from  
approx 100mph down to 35mph for a hairpin corner (this is the hardest  
braking per lap  of my local track - but every corner is pretty hard  
on brakes).

http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/mallala/mediafiles/l22.jpg

Getting the rear end that light can't be all that good for me.   
Nothing is "simple" but am I looking at heavier front springs to level  
this car out a little more under this sort of braking or am I then  
starting a whole new set of issues?



Eric
'68 MGB
Adelaide, South Australia

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Sun Sep 21 10:43:41 2008
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 12:43:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] horn replacement
Message-ID: <11393860.843071222015421249.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>

My 1971 BGT has no mo beep or toot.  Recommendations needed for new horns. 

Yes I cleaned the little connectors, etc and checked wires.  One quit about 10 years ago, now the other one.  The car is no longer in warranty.  

I want to maintain the original look,bolt new horns onto the existing brackets, and I do not want to wire up any air horns.  But I would like to have a more commanding, big testostone dog kick butt sound to compensate for my aging second childhood dilusionary behavior.

Any suggestions, about new tooters are welcome...Thanks, Mel 

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Sep 22 05:16:03 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:46:03 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Competition suspension
In-Reply-To: <007501c91c54$a4b0ca90$6401a8c0@normoffice>
References: <007501c91c54$a4b0ca90$6401a8c0@normoffice>
Message-ID: <66004A52-99F1-4405-9ED6-1C34FEF8C9F3@erickson.on.net>

On 22/09/2008, at 11:13 AM, Norm wrote:
>
>
> See: http://mgclub.homestead.com/files/photo34.htm & attached for  
> some pix of my street & track-driven MGB.  While none are in hard  
> braking as yours, you can see how low it is in 2002.  That was  
> achieved with 1-inch lower springs with medium stiffness, lowered  
> spindles, leaves removed from the stock rear springs & h.d. shock  
> valves all around & 7/8" front sway bar.  Car handled extremely well  
> on both short tracks like Lime Rock & long ones like Watkins Glen.   
> And, was quite comfortable on the street.
>
> You need to stiffen the front & lower the back while keeping the  
> back relatively soft. A British magazine did a comparison test a  
> number of years ago & found that stiff rear suspension & rear sway  
> bars did NOT help cornering.
>
> Admittedly, I compromised on ride because this car was also my daily  
> driver.  But, very few cars could out-corner it on the track.
>

Thanks for that.

I am always a little concerned about just how "stiff" I make my  
suspension and with the recent addition "anti-tramp" traction-rods and  
tube shock rear suspension I thought I had just about "tamed" her  
while still leaving the car street driveable, but maybe these pictures  
tell a different story.

http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/mallala/

I guess the next step is to lower her further as you suggest (although  
the speed humps may take a beating as I have already flattened some of  
the low exhaust when straddling track kerbing).

I have one more track event this year but I don't know if I will have  
time to do the suspension before then.

I will let you know how I go.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of Picture 36.png]
Eric
'68 MGB
Adelaide, South Australia

From difejo at frontiernet.net  Mon Sep 22 06:37:06 2008
From: difejo at frontiernet.net (John DiFede)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 08:37:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB pillar/vent window seal
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1222020001.5728.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1222020001.5728.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <07A5A792F79B4371952438636E840375@GATEWAY>

MGB pillar/vent window seal

I was going to replace the seal on the  windshield pillar which meets  
the vent window frame. After struggling with the old one a bit, I  
discovered the aluminum retainer INSIDE the seal cavity attached with  
two screws. So, one installs the new seal, slides the retainer  
inside, puts two HOLES in the new seal, install screws and puts  
sealant on the holes. I can't imagine the need for for this. I think  
the channel retainer will be quite adequate. What have others done?

Allen Hess
71 MGB

Allen, When I replaced my seals, I made the two holes to attach the screws.
Use an awl to punch tiny holes and use a small screwdriver to insert the
screws.  I did not seal the holes. The rubber seal will expand and make the
holes almost invisible.

John DiFede
73 MGB

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Sep 22 16:46:28 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 18:46:28 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Driving the BGT
Message-ID: <c16.4a90db0e.36097a44@aol.com>

I started driving the BGT to work again this morning.  Finally had  time to 
finish the electric window and lock on the drivers door, along with new  vinyl 
and door card.
 
I noticed that at a steady 40 mph, required in about 1/4th of my commute,  
there's a feeling of roughness, just barely noticeable, like it's surging a bit  
or something, that disappears upon accelleration and is not there at 60-70  
mph.
 
Any suggestions?  Timing?  I've not checked it since the rotor  disintigrated.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial 
challenges?  Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and 
calculators.      (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Sep 22 17:20:01 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:20:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 1971 Midget for sale...
Message-ID: <14066796.1222125601921.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

1971 Midget for sale... see below

Dear Robby,
I am assuming that you are in the California, since the publicity about the Brisbane meet was mostly sent here. I am forwarding the info to a few of the lists that I am on - beyound that, Craigslist.com or ebay are my only suggestions - aphone number and location would also help - good luck with your car sale.

Best,

Rick
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: Rob Vasquez <vasqrv at sbcglobal.net>
>Sent: Sep 22, 2008 5:14 PM
>To: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net
>Subject: Re: BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7, 2008
>
Hello Rick, 

I was considering selling my 1971 MG Midget. I was wondering if you could recommend a site that I could sell it on or if you know anyone who would be interested in the car.

I want someone that loves these cars and that will take care of it in the future. The only reason why I am selling it is because I do not have a garage to keep it in anymore. Our cats took the garage over and I do not want them to damage the car! 

The original owner sold it because they had bad knees and a bad hip and they couldn't get in and out of the car anymore. I am the second owner of the car that was originally purchased in Colorado and has never been driven in the rain. 

It needs a new top,speedometer cable and clutch(it pops out of 1st gear)I It has been repainted once but it does have scratches from cats. The previous owner kept it garaged and the cats use to sleep on the car. I had a couple of fuel leaks fixed and the brakes done. I was not looking to make a profit. 

I would only seek what I have put into the car.($3200.00)  I believe the car is worth more than that amount. thank You for your time. 

Robbie  <vasqrv at sbcglobal.net>

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 22 18:19:38 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:19:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] horn replacement
In-Reply-To: <11393860.843071222015421249.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <C4FD842A.1B076%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Don't know about new horns, but the way to fix the old ones is to hit them
with a wooden hammer (or any hammer with a wood block interposed). Not on
the bell (it will break), but right in the center boss. They get stuck from
disuse and need a hard knock to free up.

BTW you need to remove them from the car and lay them on a hard surface for
this to work.



on 9/21/08 9:43 AM, melfrankus at carolina.rr.com at melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
wrote:

> My 1971 BGT has no mo beep or toot.  Recommendations needed for new horns.
> 
> Yes I cleaned the little connectors, etc and checked wires.  One quit about 10
> years ago, now the other one.  The car is no longer in warranty.
> 
> I want to maintain the original look,bolt new horns onto the existing
> brackets, and I do not want to wire up any air horns.  But I would like to
> have a more commanding, big testostone dog kick butt sound to compensate for
> my aging second childhood dilusionary behavior.
> 
> Any suggestions, about new tooters are welcome...Thanks, Mel


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Mon Sep 22 18:53:08 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:53:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fireball ignition in Midget
In-Reply-To: <c16.4a90db0e.36097a44@aol.com>
References: <c16.4a90db0e.36097a44@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48D83DF4.9020009@gmail.com>

My friend has a Midget with the 1500 cc engine. About six months ago he 
had a mechanic install the Fireball optical points replacement unit. 
Now, the spark is intemittent. I clipped a wire from the battery 
positive terminal directly to the coil terminal but the spark was still 
intermittent. Then it just failed, no spark at all. I took the cap off 
and made sure the ignition was turned on, but the little yellow light in 
the optical sensor is not lit. Seems to me it should be lit. The three 
wire connector from the module is connected well, but the light is not 
lit.  Any suggestions?

 
-The Roxter
--

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 23 02:48:42 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:48:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re:  On-Going Issues
References: <mailman.7.1221933601.3814.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<0K7I005VQOIIJ0J0@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <029d01c91d5a$55a5c840$0200a8c0@Three>

They can range from virtually full to virtually empty, over a period of time
on a given car, with no rhyme or reason for the change.  In itself it means
nothing, unlike the glass bowl filters of old.  It's is the fuel flowing or
not that is important.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I'm not so sure that seeing a full filter is really telling you what
  you think.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 23 02:55:18 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:55:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Competition suspension
References: <C36B667D-C225-4303-90E2-BB3732E2FF78@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <029e01c91d5a$55c00700$0200a8c0@Three>

Keeping the car level isn't the same as keeping the same amount of weight on
the rear wheels.  Physics will always transfer the weight forwards under
braking, the front springs will only control how much the front dives (and
rolls), not how much weight is left on the rear wheels.  The important thing
is that there isn't enough braking force on the rear wheels *with* that weight
transfer to cause them to lock.  F1 cars have pretty stiff suspension, but
they still frequently lock the inside *front* wheel under braking and
cornering, which even though the car is virtually level is still the
'unloaded' wheel.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Nothing is "simple" but am I looking at heavier front springs to level
  this car out a little more under this sort of braking or am I then
  starting a whole new set of issues?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 23 02:56:50 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:56:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fireball ignition in Midget
References: <c16.4a90db0e.36097a44@aol.com> <48D83DF4.9020009@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <029f01c91d5a$55dcb6c0$0200a8c0@Three>

Go back to points.  If the spark is fine then the electronics are faulty or
there has been a problem in installation.  Substitution is the only diagnostic
for these systems.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  My friend has a Midget with the 1500 cc engine. About six months ago he
  had a mechanic install the Fireball optical points replacement unit.
  Now, the spark is intemittent...

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Sep 23 04:30:18 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 11:30:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] horn replacement
References: <11393860.843071222015421249.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <008b01c91d69$35313a40$0200a8c0@Three>

Did you do voltage tests?  First, determine whether it is the horns that have
failed or connections in the wiring too them.  If it's wiring, new horns will
make no difference.  Even though both horns failed separately it could still
be connections and not the horns themselves.  Each horn should have a purple
wire and a purple/black.  The purple supplies 12v from the bottom fuse, the
purple/black a ground from the horn button.  The purple should carry 12v all
the time.  If this drops significantly when the horn button is pushed there is
a bad connection back through to the fuse.  If the interior/courtesy light
goes out when the button is pushed the it is the problem is at the fusebox
itself.  The purple/black should show 12v normally, dropping to 0v when the
button is pushed.  Test on the horn spades themselves initially.  If it only
drops part way, or doesn't drop at all, there is a bad connection back through
the horn button, and if this is in the wheel centre this could also be inside
the button, where the sliding contact on the column contacts the ring on the
back of the wheel, or the ground through the column, rack and cross-member.
Collapsible columns seem to be prone to bad grounds, as part of the problem
with mine was here and part inside the (aftermarket) wheel I opted to use a
relay to boost the voltage to the horns themselves.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  ...  One quit about 10 years ago, now the other one...

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 23 06:42:27 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 12:42:27 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Competition suspension
Message-ID: <mailman.2276.1222173753.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>

The answer is to lower the center of mass - which may not be possible, to any real extent, on an MGB. Still, removing any mass that's above the axle line should help. e.g. Carbon fiber bonnet, boot, any trim up high, etc. 

Rick
------Original Message------
From: Paul Hunt
Sender: mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net
To: Eric
To: MG List
Sent: Sep 23, 2008 3:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Competition suspension

Keeping the car level isn't the same as keeping the same amount of weight on
the rear wheels.  Physics will always transfer the weight forwards under
braking, the front springs will only control how much the front dives (and
rolls), not how much weight is left on the rear wheels.  The important thing
is that there isn't enough braking force on the rear wheels *with* that weight
transfer to cause them to lock.  F1 cars have pretty stiff suspension, but
they still frequently lock the inside *front* wheel under braking and
cornering, which even though the car is virtually level is still the
'unloaded' wheel.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Nothing is "simple" but am I looking at heavier front springs to level
  this car out a little more under this sort of braking or am I then
  starting a whole new set of issues?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html


You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Sep 23 10:59:39 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 12:59:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Driving the BGT
Message-ID: <20080923.125940.3520.49.MGBOB@juno.com>

Bob,
   First things I would check are dwell and timing settings. Let us know
if there is damage from the disintegrated rotor.
Bob


 
On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 18:46:28 EDT RampantNM at aol.com writes:
> I started driving the BGT to work again this morning.  Finally had  
> time to 
> finish the electric window and lock on the drivers door, along with 
> new  vinyl 
> and door card.
>  
> I noticed that at a steady 40 mph, required in about 1/4th of my 
> commute,  
> there's a feeling of roughness, just barely noticeable, like it's 
> surging a bit  
> or something, that disappears upon accelleration and is not there at 
> 60-70  
> mph.
>  
> Any suggestions?  Timing?  I've not checked it since the rotor  
> disintigrated.
>  
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
____________________________________________________________
Click for free info on getting an MBA, $200K/ year potential.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l7wXHbBmlk5UOBSSpt7UjNcTob7snv7EbPpsAZG4ALm9dIJ/

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Sep 23 18:27:37 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:27:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
Message-ID: <E1KiIEI-0005ij-I6@gamma.look.ca>

I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now 
available.  I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am 
under the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics?

Anybody got definitive information?

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Tue Sep 23 18:48:47 2008
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (Gordies Garage)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:48:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <E1KiIEI-0005ij-I6@gamma.look.ca>
References: <E1KiIEI-0005ij-I6@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <F415C967FA564F2C82684F7A8CEEF785@notebook700m>

 I believe it is the Sytech that has been recommended.  Other than right
after my rebuild, I've been running Syth oil in both my MG's for years, as
well as my Audis and my tractor too.  I swear by it.

Gordie


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Barrie Robinson
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:28 PM
To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics

I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now
available.  I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am under
the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics?

Anybody got definitive information?

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 23 19:07:48 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 18:07:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <E1KiIEI-0005ij-I6@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <859347.57860.qm@web51911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It is only in a specially marked bottle of Syntec 20-50 (marked for classic cars). It does have at least 1200 ppm ZDDP. I have not seen it or used it yet. I use VR1.
Carl

--- On Tue, 9/23/08, Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:

From: Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca>
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 8:27 PM

I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now 
available.  I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am 
under the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics?

Anybody got definitive information?

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Sep 23 19:14:47 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:14:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <E1KiIEI-0005ij-I6@gamma.look.ca>
References: <E1KiIEI-0005ij-I6@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <48D99487.9050402@ktc.com>

Look here: 
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9014107&contentId=7027099

This dino oil with the zinc additive beefed up, it's said.

   CR


Barrie Robinson wrote:
> I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now 
> available.  I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am 
> under the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics?
> 
> Anybody got definitive information?
> 
> Regards
> Barrie
> 
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 23 19:59:55 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 18:59:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <48D99487.9050402@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <459321.74483.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If I was in the UK this would be great news. I am in the US and Castrol USA (part of BP) sells us only the Syntec with increased ZDDP. Unless you can find different info on this.
The original link was from the Castrol UK site.
This is from the USA site;
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7032644
Carl

--- On Tue, 9/23/08, Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:

From: Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
To: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
Cc: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 9:14 PM

Look here: 
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9014107&contentId=7027099

This dino oil with the zinc additive beefed up, it's said.

   CR


Barrie Robinson wrote:
> I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now 
> available.  I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am 
> under the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics?
> 
> Anybody got definitive information?
> 
> Regards
> Barrie
> 
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 23 20:00:18 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 19:00:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <48D99487.9050402@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <454154.52230.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If I was in the UK this would be great news. I am in the US and Castrol USA
(part of BP) sells us only the Syntec with increased ZDDP. Unless you can find
different info on this.
The original link was from the Castrol UK site.
This is from the NA site;
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentI
d=7032644
Carl

--- On Tue, 9/23/08, Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:

From: Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
To: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
Cc: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 9:14 PM

Look here:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9014107&co
ntentId=7027099

This dino oil with the zinc additive beefed up, it's said.

   CR


Barrie Robinson wrote:
> I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now
> available.  I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am
> under the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics?
>
> Anybody got definitive information?
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 23 21:24:59 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:24:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol URL
Message-ID: <56449.39434.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ed made a good point that my URL from Castrol was too long for some email
programs.
Try this one if you were having issues;
 
http://tinyurl.com/36dkr9

Carl

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue Sep 23 22:08:07 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 23:08:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] fuel gauge and temp
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0809232108y460e0accieaca362430af4d1e@mail.gmail.com>

Went for a 300 mile drive the other day (79B) and noticed the temp and fuel
gauge were both  rising and falling simultaneously (and the radio was
working periodically). Otherwise the car was running great.
 I think I've  had this  problem before with the 67B I owned and it was
either the #2 fuse or the voltage stabilizer? Suggestions?
Thanks,
Monte

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 24 01:57:01 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 08:57:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
References: <E1KiIEI-0005ij-I6@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <008201c91e1b$d042d180$0200a8c0@Three>

There are Castrol versions of conventional oils around, and part synthetics I
think, for 'high mileage vehicles' -
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915476&contentI
d=7034438 for example. It's not that synthetic per se is bad for classics,
just very expensive for little gain in engines that might have done 100k or
more.  The actual viscosity of 'high mileage' varies from country to country,
in the UK whatever the formulation the highest available is 15W/40, down from
15W/50 a few years ago, up from 20W/50 originally.

It's the very low viscosity oils (of whatever formulation) intended for modern
close-tolerance engines that could do more harm than good, see this note from
Castrol about 5W/30 A1: "NOTE: 5W-30 oil is only suitable for cars that can
use an ACEA A1/B1 fuel efficient product. Please consult the vehicle handbook
to confirm the oils suitability."

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now
  available.  I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am
  under the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 24 03:54:25 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 10:54:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] fuel gauge and temp
References: <cab4b95c0809232108y460e0accieaca362430af4d1e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <022401c91e2c$9a6870e0$0200a8c0@Three>

The Smiths electric temp and fuel gauges *do* rise and fall all the time,
although usually too small to notice unless you look very closely.  If this
were all that were happening I'd say the instrument voltage stabiliser was on
the way out.  But presumably the radio isn't fed from that circuit or it would
always have gone on and off!  In that case it has to be the feed to the radio
and stabiliser that is failing, not the stabiliser itself.  But the other
question is also over the radio, that *should* be connected to a different
circuit altogether - the accessories circuit, which comes on before the
ignition. If it were the fuse the tach would also be going on and off, and all
the other fused ignition circuits like indicators, brake lights, wipers,
heater fan etc.  That leaves a loose connection somewhere between the fusebox
and the radio and stabiliser.  The stabiliser is the last point in a part
daisy-chain and part tree-and-branch structure.  Before that is a branch to
the tach and indicators, and before that the feed to the wiper switch and so
on.  So if the tach isn't going on and off as well I'm tempted to think the
problem *is* with the stabiliser, or its connections.  If the radio really is
going on and off with the temp and fuel gauge then maybe it is picking up its
power from the green at the stabiliser, in which case the problem is at that
connection or the one feeding it from the branch to the tach and indicators,
which is a very difficult to get at multi-way plug behind the dash.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----


  Went for a 300 mile drive the other day (79B) and noticed the temp and fuel
  gauge were both  rising and falling simultaneously (and the radio was
  working periodically).

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Sep 24 06:01:22 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 21:31:22 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Competition suspension
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2276.1222173753.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2276.1222173753.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E5FA01E7-834C-4BC0-94EE-2F233B94BEE0@erickson.on.net>

On 23/09/2008, at 10:12 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> The answer is to lower the center of mass - which may not be  
> possible, to any real extent, on an MGB. Still, removing any mass  
> that's above the axle line should help. e.g. Carbon fiber bonnet,  
> boot, any trim up high, etc.
>

Thanks again, all.

I am going to lower her and see how that goes.  I am not sure what  
"mass" I can remove above the axle line (internals are pretty much  
stripped and she has pretty light race seats (the hard-top doesn't  
weigh anything much and no, I can't get rid of the rollbar :-) so I  
guess "lowering" that mass is the next best thing.

I have an aluminium bonnet.  I guess I could change the usual heavy  
steel bootlid - but I thought the combination of light bonnet and  
heavy bootlid was all about positioning the "balance point" of the car?

Right at this moment I am not looking at replacing steel panels with  
fibreglass so my options are limited.

My issue was in trying to get some greater braking potential back into  
the rear end, which from the photo it would appear is currently a  
little compromised.

What a fun game this is.  Or is this where I stop MY learning and just  
take the whole car to an "expert" and throw masses of money at them to  
let them do their magic (if I can find such an expert, that is)?

I already outbrake many cars on the track (the beauty of the 'B) -  
which is how I match quite a few of the more powerful cars for lap  
times - but if I could get a metre or so more out of my brakes it  
would, of course, be wonderful.  I already constantly juggle back and  
forward between front and rear brakes trying to find that "sweet spot".



Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 24 06:32:07 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:32:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Competition suspension
In-Reply-To: <E5FA01E7-834C-4BC0-94EE-2F233B94BEE0@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <550491.37102.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

One last comment; fiberglass isn't much lighter than thin steel panels.  Glass and resin are heavy and typically thick.  The Al panels are a plus.  "Carbon fiber" is really carbon fibers set in a resin.  The advantage is that carbon is light and there is very little resin because the panels are super thin and therefore, light.  Two cents please.

rick


--- On Wed, 9/24/08, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:

> From: Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Competition suspension
> To: "MG list" <Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008, 7:01 AM
> On 23/09/2008, at 10:12 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:
> 
> > The answer is to lower the center of mass - which may
> not be  
> > possible, to any real extent, on an MGB. Still,
> removing any mass  
> > that's above the axle line should help. e.g.
> Carbon fiber bonnet,  
> > boot, any trim up high, etc.
> >
> 
> Thanks again, all.
> 
> I am going to lower her and see how that goes.  I am not
> sure what  
> "mass" I can remove above the axle line
> (internals are pretty much  
> stripped and she has pretty light race seats (the hard-top
> doesn't  
> weigh anything much and no, I can't get rid of the
> rollbar :-) so I  
> guess "lowering" that mass is the next best
> thing.
> 
> I have an aluminium bonnet.  I guess I could change the
> usual heavy  
> steel bootlid - but I thought the combination of light
> bonnet and  
> heavy bootlid was all about positioning the "balance
> point" of the car?
> 
> Right at this moment I am not looking at replacing steel
> panels with  
> fibreglass so my options are limited.
> 
> My issue was in trying to get some greater braking
> potential back into  
> the rear end, which from the photo it would appear is
> currently a  
> little compromised.
> 
> What a fun game this is.  Or is this where I stop MY
> learning and just  
> take the whole car to an "expert" and throw
> masses of money at them to  
> let them do their magic (if I can find such an expert, that
> is)?
> 
> I already outbrake many cars on the track (the beauty of
> the 'B) -  
> which is how I match quite a few of the more powerful cars
> for lap  
> times - but if I could get a metre or so more out of my
> brakes it  
> would, of course, be wonderful.  I already constantly
> juggle back and  
> forward between front and rear brakes trying to find that
> "sweet spot".
> 
> 
> 
> Eric
> '68 MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Sep 24 09:53:30 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 01:23:30 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Competition suspension
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2276.1222173753.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2276.1222173753.3711.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <87E8F663-CFCB-4CE0-8FF2-DA84665D0106@erickson.on.net>

On 23/09/2008, at 10:12 PM, rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> The answer is to lower the center of mass - which may not be  
> possible, to any real extent, on an MGB. Still, removing any mass  
> that's above the axle line should help. e.g. Carbon fiber bonnet,  
> boot, any trim up high, etc.

I love this discussion regarding "racing" car ride height (from  
another forum) - the first paragraph refers to a racing MGB:

"OK, here's my next piece of advice, if you're running under the car  
exhaust instead of a tunnel exhaust, and you're trying to run your  
ride height measured at the rocker rail at 2", then you're running  
lower than you can get away with, with a under car exhaust about  
3-3.5" is about it, that where I ran Bamm Bamm with a uder the car  
exhaust.

With Klaus' Huffaker Bugeye with Steve Hussey (150 pound driver)  
driving it, the car was ran at 1 7/8" ride height, it had a tunnel  
exhaust..."

So, I guess I really need to lower my car's ride height - but at those  
heights I am not sure I will be able to get it down the driveway :-)



Eric
'68 MGB
Adelaide, South Australia

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Sep 24 14:40:04 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 16:40:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol URL
In-Reply-To: <56449.39434.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <56449.39434.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E1KibcW-0002QF-Sr@delta.look.ca>

Carl,

I am assuming that you are going down on the side of synthetic with 
the classic flavour?  I had one response from a gentleman that said 
he used synthetic with no adverse effects.  The problem is we, as 
enthusiasts, do not hammer our cars too much and probably never verge 
towards the 50,000 to 100,000 kilometers.  And yes, I know there are 
a few that do but the pool of experience is not very big.  So we have 
to rely on oil experts such as Castrol and hope they are not blinding 
us in the cause of more profits.  I mean these oil companies do not 
gouge us for oil stuff - do they???



At 11:24 PM 9/23/2008, Carl French wrote:
>Ed made a good point that my URL from Castrol was too long for some email
>programs.
>Try this one if you were having issues;
>
>http://tinyurl.com/36dkr9
>
>Carl
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Wed Sep 24 15:11:11 2008
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 17:11:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] horn replacement
Message-ID: <16123269.329381222290671835.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web08-z02>

Thanks to all who counseled me about my failed horns, especially Ed and Paul.    I bought two new ones, hi and lo at NAPA.  Around $15 each, and they look pretty much like the orginal, no brainer replacement.   Now I got beeps and toots.   My car is perfect again.  Thanks fellers.....Mel
---->   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   ...  One quit about 10 years ago, now the other one...

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 24 15:21:14 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 14:21:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] horn replacement
In-Reply-To: <16123269.329381222290671835.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web08-z02>
Message-ID: <230671.59317.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Gotta love a success story!

rick
'70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer

--- On Wed, 9/24/08, melfrankus at carolina.rr.com <melfrankus at carolina.rr.com> wrote:

> From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com <melfrankus at carolina.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] horn replacement
> To: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008, 4:11 PM
> Thanks to all who counseled me about my failed horns,
> especially Ed and Paul.    I bought two new ones, hi and lo
> at NAPA.  Around $15 each, and they look pretty much like
> the orginal, no brainer replacement.   Now I got beeps and
> toots.   My car is perfect again.  Thanks fellers.....Mel
> ---->   ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   ...  One quit about 10 years ago, now the other
> one...
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Wed Sep 24 17:38:34 2008
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (Sam DeSalvo)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 19:38:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] motor for sale
Message-ID: <2569D33745F345E684A695251C83AAAC@VALUEDECECF7F4>

I have a disassembled 1977 MGB motor which has to find a new home. I don't
know the value of the beast, so lets start at $100. Pickup only, near
Rochester, NY.
Sam

From montejane at gmail.com  Wed Sep 24 21:38:59 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 22:38:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] fuel gauge and temp
In-Reply-To: <022401c91e2c$9a6870e0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <cab4b95c0809232108y460e0accieaca362430af4d1e@mail.gmail.com>
	<022401c91e2c$9a6870e0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0809242038s61199d42pb773f35949d82625@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks guys.
I just remembered that the turn signals also failed the other day and I
"jiggled" the #2 fuse and they started working again.
Monte


On 9/24/08, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>  The Smiths electric temp and fuel gauges *do* rise and fall all the time,
> although usually too small to notice unless you look very closely.  If this
> were all that were happening I'd say the instrument voltage stabiliser was
> on the way out.  But presumably the radio isn't fed from that circuit or it
> would always have gone on and off!  In that case it has to be the feed to
> the radio and stabiliser that is failing, not the stabiliser itself.  But
> the other question is also over the radio, that *should* be connected to a
> different circuit altogether - the accessories circuit, which comes on
> before the ignition. If it were the fuse the tach would also be going on and
> off, and all the other fused ignition circuits like indicators, brake
> lights, wipers, heater fan etc.  That leaves a loose connection somewhere
> between the fusebox and the radio and stabiliser.  The stabiliser is the
> last point in a part daisy-chain and part tree-and-branch structure.  Before
> that is a branch to the tach and indicators, and before that the feed to the
> wiper switch and so on.  So if the tach isn't going on and off as well I'm
> tempted to think the problem *is* with the stabiliser, or its connections.
> If the radio really is going on and off with the temp and fuel gauge then
> maybe it is picking up its power from the green at the stabiliser, in which
> case the problem is at that connection or the one feeding it from the branch
> to the tach and indicators, which is a very difficult to get at multi-way
> plug behind the dash.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> Went for a 300 mile drive the other day (79B) and noticed the temp and fuel
> gauge were both  rising and falling simultaneously (and the radio was
> working periodically).

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Sep 24 23:52:38 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 00:52:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <459321.74483.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <459321.74483.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48DB2726.7050303@ktc.com>

  Looks like you're right.  Thanks for pointing it out.  Additionally, I 
couldn't pull up the data sheet for the  CASTROL SYNTEC 20W-50 that the 
link steered me to.  So I couldn't find out the actual ZDDP content.

   I saw another article that said the GTX High Mileage oil had 
sufficient ZDDP but it wasn't listed on that oil's data sheet.

   Doggone it, seems like the oil companies are being a little covert.
  Still looks like it's gonna be Valvoline VR-1 20W50 for me.

   CR


Carl French wrote:
> If I was in the UK this would be great news. I am in the US and Castrol 
> USA (part of BP) sells us only the Syntec with increased ZDDP. Unless 
> you can find different info on this.
> The original link was from the Castrol UK site.
> This is from the USA site;
> http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7032644 
> <http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7032644>
> Carl
> 
> --- On *Tue, 9/23/08, Charles & Peggy Robinson /<ccrobins at ktc.com>/* wrote:
> 
>     From: Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
>     Subject: Re: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
>     To: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
>     Cc: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net, mgs at autox.team.net
>     Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 9:14 PM
> 
>     Look here: 
>     http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9014107&contentId=7027099
> 
>     This dino oil with the zinc additive beefed up, it's said.
> 
>        CR

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Sep 25 00:10:50 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 01:10:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <459321.74483.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <459321.74483.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48DB2B6A.6090609@ktc.com>

Here's the link to the Valvoline VR-1 page.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50

Click on the "Answers about Zinc" link at the bottom of the blurb.

   CR

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Sep 25 17:42:50 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 16:42:50 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <48DB2B6A.6090609@ktc.com>
References: <459321.74483.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<48DB2B6A.6090609@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200809251642i62964448pbcf9ff8ce1ecd828@mail.gmail.com>

How about using RedLine's Break-in additive to provide the ZDDP:
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?categoryID=2

>From the page:
"This product can also be used in conventional and synthetic oils
during regular operation, providing an extra package of protection
otherwise not found in most motor oils."

Regards,
Simon

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep 25 19:21:20 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:21:20 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <40b437200809251642i62964448pbcf9ff8ce1ecd828@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Simon, if you would forward this to the V8 Kist (I am not on it<G>)...

<<How about using RedLine's Break-in additive to provide the ZDDP:>>

I am still using Castrol GTX (dino) 20W50 in both my 'Caminos (1 = Std.
350cid & other @600HP at rear wheel<G>), '63 Big Healey (BJ-7), Wife's '73
Black Tulip MGB, AND all customers' cars
and add either Lucas Oil's H.D. Stabilizer or Gem's EOS Assembly Lube
at a rate of 1 pint - 4 qts or 5+oz - 4 qts.

These 2 recommendations came from my Machine Shop/Hot Rod Motor Builders
(read up to 1200 HP as norm) who I have been using for all my work for about
3 years.  That WAS about the time when they told the oil probs to me whilst
I picking up Midget 1275 (+.20), a fully re-sleeved to std. XPAG and a AH 6
cyl (+.10) trio of short block of motors.

ZERO probs to date.  And I will be continuing to do same.

Ed
Please visit my site at:		www.justbrits.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Sep 25 21:47:36 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 22:47:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com>

  OK,

   So Ed's putting in an ZDDP additive for break in.  So what?  I wonder 
if he's tossing in the additive with each oil change.

   I want to use an oil that has ZDDP enough to start with.

   CR


> Simon, if you would forward this to the V8 Kist (I am not on it<G>)...
> 
> <<How about using RedLine's Break-in additive to provide the ZDDP:>>
> 
> I am still using Castrol GTX (dino) 20W50 in both my 'Caminos (1 = Std.
> 350cid & other @600HP at rear wheel<G>), '63 Big Healey (BJ-7), Wife's '73
> Black Tulip MGB, AND all customers' cars
> and add either Lucas Oil's H.D. Stabilizer or Gem's EOS Assembly Lube
> at a rate of 1 pint - 4 qts or 5+oz - 4 qts.

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 25 22:12:49 2008
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 23:12:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <48DC6141.1060601@sbcglobal.net>

Thats a very good point.  In all the hysteria to add ZDDP to oil, I 
think a lot of people have overlooked a couple of studies (sorry but I 
don't have the references any more) the too much ZDDP can be as bad if 
not worse than too little.  This is referring to engines past the 
critical flat tappet cam break-in period.  I would be extremely cautious 
about dumping additional ZDDP in the oil until I know for sure how much 
was in there in the first place. 

My gut feeling is that this ZDDP thing is going to be a lot like the 
hysteria when the first started taking lead out of gasoline.  Sure there 
were (and still are) some problems but nothing at all like the predicted 
dire consequences.  People will eventually learn to cope. 

Regards,
Charles Hill

Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>   OK,
>
>    So Ed's putting in an ZDDP additive for break in.  So what?  I wonder 
> if he's tossing in the additive with each oil change.
>
>    I want to use an oil that has ZDDP enough to start with.
>
>    CR

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Sep 26 10:41:22 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 12:41:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <E1KjGmn-00021b-4D@iota.look.ca>

Seems Valvoline VR 1  is the ticket !!!  ???

At 11:47 PM 9/25/2008, Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>   OK,
>
>    So Ed's putting in an ZDDP additive for break in.  So what?  I wonder
>if he's tossing in the additive with each oil change.
>
>    I want to use an oil that has ZDDP enough to start with.
>
>    CR
>
>
> > Simon, if you would forward this to the V8 Kist (I am not on it<G>)...
> >
> > <<How about using RedLine's Break-in additive to provide the ZDDP:>>
> >
> > I am still using Castrol GTX (dino) 20W50 in both my 'Caminos (1 = Std.
> > 350cid & other @600HP at rear wheel<G>), '63 Big Healey (BJ-7), Wife's '73
> > Black Tulip MGB, AND all customers' cars
> > and add either Lucas Oil's H.D. Stabilizer or Gem's EOS Assembly Lube
> > at a rate of 1 pint - 4 qts or 5+oz - 4 qts.
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Sep 26 10:45:05 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 12:45:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <48DC6141.1060601@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com> <48DC6141.1060601@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1KjGmn-00021b-FB@iota.look.ca>

As to the lead hysteria, I did a years long test for Shell using lead 
free petrol on a newly built engine.  When examined at the end of the 
year there was absolutely no sign of trouble.


At 12:12 AM 9/26/2008, Charles Hill wrote:
>Thats a very good point.  In all the hysteria to add ZDDP to oil, I
>think a lot of people have overlooked a couple of studies (sorry but I
>don't have the references any more) the too much ZDDP can be as bad if
>not worse than too little.  This is referring to engines past the
>critical flat tappet cam break-in period.  I would be extremely cautious
>about dumping additional ZDDP in the oil until I know for sure how much
>was in there in the first place.
>
>My gut feeling is that this ZDDP thing is going to be a lot like the
>hysteria when the first started taking lead out of gasoline.  Sure there
>were (and still are) some problems but nothing at all like the predicted
>dire consequences.  People will eventually learn to cope.
>
>Regards,
>Charles Hill
>
>Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> >   OK,
> >
> >    So Ed's putting in an ZDDP additive for break in.  So what?  I wonder
> > if he's tossing in the additive with each oil change.
> >
> >    I want to use an oil that has ZDDP enough to start with.
> >
> >    CR
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Fri Sep 26 11:27:34 2008
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 10:27:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
In-Reply-To: <E1KjGmn-00021b-FB@iota.look.ca>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com> <48DC6141.1060601@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1KjGmn-00021b-FB@iota.look.ca>
Message-ID: <48DD1B86.2000207@cox.net>

Barrie Robinson wrote:

>As to the lead hysteria, I did a years long test for Shell using lead 
>free petrol on a newly built engine.  When examined at the end of the 
>year there was absolutely no sign of trouble.
>  
>
It really depends on the engine. When we switched to unleaded in 
California, our Landcruiser started suffering from valve seat recession 
within a few months. Sold it before we had to redo the cylinder head, 
but when I had the B's engine rebuilt, I made sure they put in hardened 
valve seats.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Sep 26 20:48:08 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 22:48:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
Message-ID: <20080926224808.YYTBE.447345.imail@eastrmwml28>

Anyone have any idea of where to purchase headlight relays from, I'm looking for the 30 Amp and of course 12V, when I tried my local auto stores they looked at me as if I was from outer space, when I told the guy from Auto Zone there were to be used on an MGB he said " is that a Ford?" after I explained to him what kind of car it was he still thought it was was a Ford, go figure. 
71 MGB

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Sep 26 20:48:09 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 22:48:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
Message-ID: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>

Anyone have any idea of where to purchase headlight relays from, I'm looking for the 30 Amp and of course 12V, when I tried my local auto stores they looked at me as if I was from outer space, when I told the guy from Auto Zone there were to be used on an MGB he said " is that a Ford?" after I explained to him what kind of car it was he still thought it was was a Ford, go figure. 
71 MGB

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 26 21:12:33 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 20:12:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
In-Reply-To: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
Message-ID: <79057.95253.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I believe you can just ask for a standard Bosch type four pin relay (IIRC). Dont even tell them what you want it for, it just confuses them. I think Autozone etc may have them in blister packs on hooks. I get mine from NAPA.
Carl


--- On Fri, 9/26/08, Bernd <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:

From: Bernd <1971mgb at cox.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
To: "MG list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 26, 2008, 10:48 PM

Anyone have any idea of where to purchase headlight relays from, I'm looking
for the 30 Amp and of course 12V, when I tried my local auto stores they looked
at me as if I was from outer space, when I told the guy from Auto Zone there
were to be used on an MGB he said " is that a Ford?" after I explained
to him what kind of car it was he still thought it was was a Ford, go figure. 
71 MGB
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sat Sep 27 06:15:10 2008
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 07:15:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
In-Reply-To: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
References: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
Message-ID: <003301c9209a$d43279e0$7c976da0$@net>

Auto alarm and stereo shops use them for all kinds of things, they probably
wouldn't charge much as they purchase them in bulk. It can be hard to find
the higher amperage ones at the chain stores.

Chad
'72B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bernd
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 9:48 PM
To: MG list
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's

Anyone have any idea of where to purchase headlight relays from, I'm looking
for the 30 Amp and of course 12V, when I tried my local auto stores they
looked at me as if I was from outer space, when I told the guy from Auto
Zone there were to be used on an MGB he said " is that a Ford?" after I
explained to him what kind of car it was he still thought it was was a Ford,
go figure. 
71 MGB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Sep 27 08:10:24 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 15:10:24 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEDMDOAA.shop@justbrits.com><48DC5B58.30702@ktc.com>
	<48DC6141.1060601@sbcglobal.net> <E1KjGmn-00021b-FB@iota.look.ca>
Message-ID: <D6A33675010D47DF89B422A9707A66C2@Three>

What engine, mileage and conditions, though?  The FBHVC tests of various
protective additives, compared to no additive, were done on an A-series engine
(said to be the worst for recession) at a constant full load for many hours.
It was interesting to note that some additives gave no change, others made the
recession worse!  The FBHVC did not publish the names of these, only four
products that gave varying amounts of protection.
  ----- Original Message -----


  As to the lead hysteria, I did a years long test for Shell using lead
  free petrol on a newly built engine.  When examined at the end of the
  year there was absolutely no sign of trouble.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Sep 27 08:18:50 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 15:18:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
References: <20080926224808.YYTBE.447345.imail@eastrmwml28>
Message-ID: <EF26781CF71D45B7A04B0085801DE418@Three>

Just get bog-standard accessory relays (no apostrophe).  If you can relays
with a change-over contact e.g. http://tinyurl.com/4hhtdp (common (30)
connected to the 12v supply, normally closed contact (87a) to dipped beams,
normally open contact (87) to main beam) then you will only need one relay,
but if they have just a single normally open contact you will need two.  If
you get relay(s) with an integral fuse (or install a main supply in-line fuse)
then make sure you fit individual filament fuses as well, of about 1/4 the
rating of the supply fuse, or you could lose all your headlights in one go.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  Anyone have any idea of where to purchase headlight relays from

From difejo at frontiernet.net  Sat Sep 27 12:24:54 2008
From: difejo at frontiernet.net (John DiFede)
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 14:24:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
Message-ID: <C091C1B5603342EFB4FD50B9B646671A@GATEWAY>

I just upgraded to relays on my 73 MGB.

 

I purchased what I needed here,    WWW.allelectronics.com
<http://www.allelectronics.com/> 

 

Prices are great and they have everything you will need.

 

Here are part numbers;

 

Relay 30amp 2 needed;                           RLY-351

 

Dual relay Socket;                                     SRLY-4

 

Weatherproof blade fuse holder;            FHP-25

 

 

Total cost was about $20.00

 

 

John DiFede

 

1973 MGB

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Sat Sep 27 12:58:13 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 13:58:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] relays
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1222538401.15164.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1222538401.15164.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CE9DC995-5F5D-4881-9A13-E6F6B65BDB73@sbcglobal.net>

Radio Shack has the relays but they are a little more expensive.   
Auto Zone has them with the the accessory lights not with the  
electrical stuff.  Most of the people that work there generally don't  
know what they are for.

From difejo at frontiernet.net  Sun Sep 28 07:52:47 2008
From: difejo at frontiernet.net (John DiFede)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:52:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Relay's
Message-ID: <0887C62306724DCAA3D4EAB2C51CFC3E@GATEWAY>

Bernd said,

 

When I told the guy from Auto Zone there were to be used on an MGB he said "
is that a Ford?" after I explained to him what kind of car it was he still
thought it was a Ford, go figure. 

 

 

When you told the Auto Zone guy parts for an "MGB", I bet he thought you
said Model T.  That's why he still thought you wanted parts for a Ford!

 

John DiFede

73 MGB

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 28 09:12:07 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 08:12:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Relay's
In-Reply-To: <0887C62306724DCAA3D4EAB2C51CFC3E@GATEWAY>
Message-ID: <309773.75342.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

...or the guy was just ignorant.  Never over-estimate humans. :-P

rick
'70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer


--- On Sun, 9/28/08, John DiFede <difejo at frontiernet.net> wrote:

> From: John DiFede <difejo at frontiernet.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Relay's
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, September 28, 2008, 8:52 AM
> Bernd said,
> 
>  
> 
> When I told the guy from Auto Zone there were to be used on
> an MGB he said "
> is that a Ford?" after I explained to him what kind of
> car it was he still
> thought it was a Ford, go figure. 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> When you told the Auto Zone guy parts for an
> "MGB", I bet he thought you
> said Model T.  That's why he still thought you wanted
> parts for a Ford!
> 
>  
> 
> John DiFede
> 
> 73 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Sun Sep 28 11:51:22 2008
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 10:51:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
In-Reply-To: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
References: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
Message-ID: <48DFC41A.1000807@cox.net>

Bernd wrote:

>Anyone have any idea of where to purchase headlight relays from, I'm looking for the 30 Amp and of course 12V, when I tried my local auto stores they looked at me as if I was from outer space, when I told the guy from Auto Zone there were to be used on an MGB he said " is that a Ford?" after I explained to him what kind of car it was he still thought it was was a Ford, go figure. 
>71 MGB
>  
>
I get the same treatment from our local autozone counter help. I suggest 
going to NAPA or Radio Shack instead.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose

From elco506 at austin.rr.com  Sun Sep 28 13:05:16 2008
From: elco506 at austin.rr.com (Brian Lundgren)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 14:05:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relays
Message-ID: <0A3F2373723C427AAB9449883F66182F@Brian>

Check with this guy. Everyone brags about his kits with full and easy
instructions and a quality product.

 

http://www.mgexperience.net/member/Limey

 

Brian Lundgren

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Sep 28 16:18:15 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 18:18:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] hello
Message-ID: <E1Kk4ax-0005xk-7C@gamma.look.ca>

Will Bill Guzman please contact me? - need your advices !!

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Mon Sep 29 07:18:40 2008
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 09:18:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake warning light ON
In-Reply-To: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
References: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
Message-ID: <a06230909c506849585fa@[128.151.164.253]>

How do you re center the brake warning switch ?  Had a rear wheel 
leak and the light came on , now can not get it to go out.

paul
-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Sep 29 07:50:19 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 09:50:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight relay's
Message-ID: <20080929.100234.4088.5.MGBOB@juno.com>

  Try another auto parts store. These things are as common as oil drips
under the engine.
  Standard  # RY 115     is one that I bought three of on Friday, to hook
up in brake & turn lights as Rick Astley suggested in his book. They work
great--lights are much brighter.
Bob
 '72 GT

On Fri, 26 Sep 2008 22:48:08 -0400 Bernd <1971mgb at cox.net> writes:
> Anyone have any idea of where to purchase headlight relays from, I'm 
> looking for the 30 Amp and of course 12V, when I tried my local auto 
> stores they looked at me as if I was from outer space, when I told 
> the guy from Auto Zone there were to be used on an MGB he said " is 
> that a Ford?" after I explained to him what kind of car it was he 
> still thought it was was a Ford, go figure. 
> 71 MGB
> 
____________________________________________________________
Click here for free information on nursing degrees, up to $150/hour
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nEnlUAsPTBzB4NDCPWGaoYB9cBUrXsXji7hZGU0wW4KS6AN/

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Sep 29 08:10:00 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 15:10:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Brake warning light ON
References: <20080926224809.L8SJ5.447346.imail@eastrmwml28>
	<a06230909c506849585fa@[128.151.164.253]>
Message-ID: <F302FDB675214A868CBCBC0A19028237@Three>

After a fault or doing any repairs on one circuit that has caused the light to
come on, you have to open the other circuit (i.e. a front caliper in your
case) and bleed very slowly until the light just goes out then close that
bleed nipple very quickly.  This bleeding slowly pushes the shuttle valve from
one end towards the other, and in the middle the light should go out.  If you
bleed too much you can push the switch too far so the light comes back on
again, then you have to bleed the other way i.e. open the circuit you have
just repaired and try again.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  How do you re center the brake warning switch ?

From chris.kotting at gmail.com  Mon Sep 29 12:15:00 2008
From: chris.kotting at gmail.com (chris.kotting at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 14:15:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake warning light ON
Message-ID: <48e11b53.1b2d400a.0606.263f@mx.google.com>

1)  Open a bleed screw on a brake caliper/cylinder on the opposite end of the car from the leak. 
2)  Have an asisstant push the pedal down <slowly> until the light goes out.  
3)  Close bleed screw.

You have to do the same thing after bleeding the brakes.
-----Original Message-----
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 09:18:40 -0400
From: Paul Osborne <paul at ece.rochester.edu>
Subject: [Mgs] Brake warning light ON
To: mgs at autox.team.net

How do you re center the brake warning switch ?  Had a rear wheel 
leak and the light came on , now can not get it to go out.

paul
-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Tue Sep 30 17:39:23 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:39:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rear axle
Message-ID: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28>

today I decided to eliminate the "clunk" from the differential on my 71 MGB wire wheel car. I had ordered the thrust washers and started my disassembly on the tube axle. So far I drained the oil from the differential, took the back plate off the differential and have removed the brake drums and hub's Moss calls them "Hub Extension" , my problem is how in the world do you extract the ax el shafts?, could I put a nut on the half axle and  give the nut a couple of whacks or pull on the nut real hard  to slide the axle out? I see Moss has a Rear Axle puller tool (384-945) available, am I  right in thinking that the axle shaft  is that simple to pull and there is nothing  holding the half shaft in place within the differential ? Also do I have to pull the brake back plate? 
Thanks in advance.
B.
71 MGB

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Sep 30 18:22:55 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:22:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear axle
In-Reply-To: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28>
References: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28>
Message-ID: <20081001002302.A9C1D18767A@autox.team.net>

At 07:39 PM 9/30/2008 -0400, Bernd wrote:
>today I decided to eliminate the "clunk" from the differential on my 
>71 MGB wire wheel car. I had ordered the thrust washers and started 
>my disassembly on the tube axle. So far I drained the oil from the 
>differential, took the back plate off the differential and have 
>removed the brake drums and hub's Moss calls them "Hub Extension"

Before you get too carried away there, you only need to pull one half 
shaft to change the thrust washers in the differential.  Last time I 
was involved in this little chore we didn't bother to remove the 
wheel on the other side, and we removed the backing plate and brake 
parts without disassembling much of the brake parts.

>.... my problem is how in the world do you extract the ax el 
>shafts?, could I put a nut on the half axle and  give the nut a 
>couple of whacks or pull on the nut real hard  to slide the axle out?

Remove the bearing retaining plate, the pull the half shaft with the 
bearing included.

>I see Moss has a Rear Axle puller tool (384-945) available, am 
>I  right in thinking that the axle shaft  is that simple to pull and 
>there is nothing  holding the half shaft in place within the 
>differential ? Also do I have to pull the brake back plate?
>....

You can use a simple slide hammer for pulling.  Remove the drum and 
hub, disconnect the hand brake cable and hydraulic pipe, remove the 
brake backing plate with brake parts still assembled on it, remove 
the bearing cover plate, then pull the halfshaft out about an inch to 
clear the differential gear.  Find details and photo of the whole 
process here: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_clunk

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com