From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Oct 1 01:58:50 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 08:58:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] rear axle References: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: I've pulled half-shafts simply by loosely replacing the hub back on the shaft after removing the back-plate and bearing cover, then tapping round the back of the hub with a mallet. The bearing is only a light interference fit in the casing. You only need to pull one of them, and only far enough to clear the diff. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... my problem is how in the world do you extract the ax el shafts? From mgbob at juno.com Wed Oct 1 07:34:40 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 09:34:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rear axle Message-ID: <20081001.093441.3756.10.MGBOB@juno.com> Bernd, You are right that the half shaft is not fastened into the differential. What is sticking it in place is the bearing. A slide hammer is easiest way to do the removal, hooked to the Moss adapter or an equivalent that you can get someone to weld for you. In Barney's pictures, it appears that the slide hammer is hooked behind a pin that goes through the cotter pin hole. Whacking on a large washer behind a nut may do the job too, though these bearings can be quite well stuck. Just pulling on the nut will pull the car off the jackstands before releasing the bearing, so don't try that. You don't need to remove the back plate, though it's easy to do and it falls into the "while you're at it you might as well" category. It's an opportunity to go over the brake adjuster and hand brake linkage. If handbrake has not been working to your satisfaction, check Paul Hunt's latest additions to his technical advice. Instructions tell you to avoid pushing the pinion pin in too far, but they don't say how far is too far. You don't want to find out, but need not find out, as tapping on the end opposite the roll pin to move it about 1/4 inch, turning the diff over, then looking at the progress will keep you safe. At 1/4 inch, the hole for the roll pin will just be coming into view. Turn the diff back and forth as you tap, tapping gently so that the hole for the roll pin is exposed. Turn the diff back again, insert a rod or metal screwdriver, then twist and pull. The pinion pin comes out easily. Use a new seal on the half shaft that you removed, and you might consider a new one for the other side. Bob On Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:39:23 -0400 Bernd <1971mgb at cox.net> writes: > today I decided to eliminate the "clunk" from the differential on my > 71 MGB wire wheel car. I had ordered the thrust washers and started > my disassembly on the tube axle. So far I drained the oil from the > differential, took the back plate off the differential and have > removed the brake drums and hub's Moss calls them "Hub Extension" , > my problem is how in the world do you extract the ax el shafts?, > could I put a nut on the half axle and give the nut a couple of > whacks or pull on the nut real hard to slide the axle out? I see > Moss has a Rear Axle puller tool (384-945) available, am I right in > thinking that the axle shaft is that simple to pull and there is > nothing holding the half shaft in place within the differential ? > Also do I have to pull the brake back plate? > Thanks in advance. > B. > 71 MGB ____________________________________________________________ Click here to learn more about nursing jobs. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nEvp8hMt9tOlISoQ1IAhKYyoDnBFqzqsx8OKw7nnL5bovA5/ From dennis_cox at appsig.com Wed Oct 1 11:47:37 2008 From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 10:47:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] rear axle In-Reply-To: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28> References: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F3400@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com> Just to throw a spanner into the works. It might not be a bad idea to pull both half shafts and replace the outer bearings and seals and the pinion seal while you're at it. -----Original Message----- today I decided to eliminate the "clunk" from the differential on my 71 MGB wire wheel car. I had ordered the thrust washers and started my disassembly on the tube axle. So far I drained the oil from the differential, took the back plate off the differential and have removed the brake drums and hub's Moss calls them "Hub Extension" , my problem is how in the world do you extract the ax el shafts?, could I put a nut on the half axle and give the nut a couple of whacks or pull on the nut real hard to slide the axle out? I see Moss has a Rear Axle puller tool (384-945) available, am I right in thinking that the axle shaft is that simple to pull and there is nothing holding the half shaft in place within the differential ? Also do I have to pull the brake back plate? Thanks in advance. B. 71 MGB _______________________________________________ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 2 01:42:21 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 08:42:21 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] rear axle References: <20081001.093441.3756.10.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <7F618B47B48D43AD957FF52E8F145EE3@Three> Keep turning the diff cage while you are tapping the pin to see how much clearance you have left and that should stop you going too far. In my case the pin moved relatively easily to start with then got stiffer and stiffer, to the point that when I did rotate the cage to allow me to pull the pin the rest of the way I simply could not shift it with the grips I had available. The axle was off the car, so I didn't have the benefit of the weight of the car holding the casing steady while I pulled at it, but even so I doubt I would have got it out. I pulled the other axle shaft then undid the cage bearing retainers and lifted the whole diff out, which incidentally is what you would have to do if you *did* push the pin too far. The Workshop Manual talks about a case stretcher being required, and it may well do with new bearings (removal or replacement), but in practice it seems that the wear on a typical used axle that needs the clunk repair renders it unnecessary. And loosely refitting the hub and whacking the back of it with a mallet or soft-faced hammer will pull the half-shaft. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Instructions tell you to avoid pushing the pinion pin in too far, but they don't say how far is too far. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 2 02:09:43 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 09:09:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] rear axle References: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28> <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F3400@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com> Message-ID: Don't touch the pinion seal unless you really have to, it is a minefield with a high chance of destroying the collapsible washer, the method described in the Workshop Manual should *not* be used. If you are working with an axle that is new to you and it is going onto your car as mine was then I did replace the bearings and oil seals, as they are unknown quantities. If the worst comes to the worst and it leaks in use the pinion oil seal can be replaced just by removing the prop-shaft. Even so driving the old bearings off and new ones on is no trivial task, really needing a hydraulic press. I've heard tales of putting the half-shaft in the freezer and bearings in the oven as far as fitting new ones goes, but after struggling for a long time just to get one bearing off I got someone else to do the rest. *Make sure* they get the bearing spacer between the bearing and the shoulder on the half-shaft the right way round, the concave side faces the shoulder and the flat face the bearing. If you get it the wrong way round the shaft goes too far into the diff, the hubs are closer together, and the brake drums can rub on the back-plates. Also examine the tapered oil seal collar that slides onto the half-shaft after the bearing (the seal rides on the parallel part and the hub jams onto the tapered part) and replace that if it shows any signs of grooving. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- It might not be a bad idea to pull both half shafts and replace the outer bearings and seals and the pinion seal while you're at it. From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Oct 2 21:15:39 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 23:15:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] rear end clunk Message-ID: <20081002231539.KQ01E.530930.imail@eastrmwml28> thank's to all who replied to my request of how to repair my rear end clunk in the 71 "B". The good news is that there is no bad news and the information I received from this list was invaluable in helping me with this repair, a friend and I finished the job this afternoon. We had some difficulty in getting the axle shaft out but perseverance and the impact hammer persuaded the axle shaft to come out. We also found that the fibre washers had disintegrated over the years. After reassembly I drove the car around the neighborhood and was pleased with the results. Again thanks to all of you on the list who contributed to my successful completion of fixing the clunk in the rear end. B. 71 MGB From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 2 18:38:28 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 19:38:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Off-topic - polishing powder coating? Message-ID: I just got a new mountain bike frame off eBay that has a custom powdercoat on it. There are a few scratches, etc on them, and I want to buff it out. Is there anything special about this, or regular rubbing/polishing compound ok? Afterwards, wax choices? Thanks, Paul. From batangelias at yahoo.com Mon Oct 6 00:10:30 2008 From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 23:10:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGs in the Singapore GP In-Reply-To: <20081002231539.KQ01E.530930.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: <289482.79825.qm@web34206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Vintage MGs were driven with pride during the pre-race parade of drivers. An old English white MGB proved to be Alonso's lucky car that evening. Please take note of a really rare prewar MG owned by Mr.Peter Chan. (photo 8863) http://www.flickr.com/photos/31159348 at N04/ Martin ' 65 MGB Philippines From batangelias at yahoo.com Mon Oct 6 00:12:05 2008 From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 23:12:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGs in the Singapore GP In-Reply-To: <20081002231539.KQ01E.530930.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: <357169.72975.qm@web34201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Vintage MGs were driven with pride during the pre-race parade of drivers. An old English white MGB proved to be Alonso's lucky car that evening. Please take note of a really rare prewar MG owned by Mr.Peter Chan. (photo 8863) http://www.flickr.com/photos/31159348 at N04/ Sorry for some shaky snaps. Martin '65 MGB Philippines From eric at erickson.on.net Mon Oct 6 04:05:02 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 20:35:02 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] MGs in the Singapore GP In-Reply-To: <357169.72975.qm@web34201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <357169.72975.qm@web34201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6B68BC54-7DC4-49F6-BC7F-5E45802E3B0E@erickson.on.net> On 06/10/2008, at 4:42 PM, Martin C. Galan wrote: > Vintage MGs were driven with pride during the pre-race parade of > drivers. An old English white MGB proved to be Alonso's lucky car > that evening. > Fantastic - we can take over the world. We used MGs in the Aussie GP drivers' parade too. Eric 68 MGB MkII Adelaide South Australia From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Oct 1 01:58:50 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 08:58:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] rear axle References: <20080930193923.W4W0T.496214.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: I've pulled half-shafts simply by loosely replacing the hub back on the shaft after removing the back-plate and bearing cover, then tapping round the back of the hub with a mallet. The bearing is only a light interference fit in the casing. You only need to pull one of them, and only far enough to clear the diff. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... my problem is how in the world do you extract the ax el shafts? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 2 18:38:28 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 19:38:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Off-topic - polishing powder coating? Message-ID: I just got a new mountain bike frame off eBay that has a custom powdercoat on it. There are a few scratches, etc on them, and I want to buff it out. Is there anything special about this, or regular rubbing/polishing compound ok? Afterwards, wax choices? Thanks, Paul. From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Oct 8 14:33:49 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 16:33:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG TD For Sale in SF Bay Area Message-ID: <6791536.1223498029640.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Listers, Got this from a friend in NorCal- I know nothing - they have pix - I've seen them - car seems complete but done like they did them 30 years ago - home mads wood dash, shiny black vinyl top - faded red paint - but doesn't look wrecked or rusty and they are open for offers Good luck, Rick Feibusch BritishCarNetwork at gmail.com Venice, CA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To: Paul , Subject: 1952 MG TD for sale - please make offer Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 18:03:29 -0400 From: feb1073 at aol.com Hello, I have a 1952 MG TD for sale in Martinez, CA (about 25 miles east of SF). I was wondering if you could send this email and pictures around to your members to see if there was someone interested in a great "project car." Wouldn't take much to get this one back in shape and back on the road. (Not running now) Looking for a best offer. Thanks! (Please respond to this email with your contact information/questions). Paul , From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Oct 8 21:27:36 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2008 22:27:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues In-Reply-To: <20080919.141202.992.10.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080919.141202.992.10.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <48ED7A28.6020700@ktc.com> Gee, what happened? Did everyone hibernate along with their cars? We put 100 miles on our B today. Saw pretty Hill Country, had a (very) few glasses of wine and met some nice folks. A very enjoyable sporty car day! The B just buzzed along....... CR From 1971mgb at cox.net Wed Oct 8 21:49:28 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 23:49:28 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues In-Reply-To: <48ED7A28.6020700@ktc.com> Message-ID: <20081008234928.R4NBI.61663.imail@eastrmwml44> nope still driving the 71 B every day, top down weather here in the southern part of Virginia for the past few days. ---- Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > Gee, what happened? Did everyone hibernate along with their cars? > > We put 100 miles on our B today. Saw pretty Hill Country, had a > (very) few glasses of wine and met some nice folks. A very enjoyable > sporty car day! The B just buzzed along....... > > CR > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as 1971mgb at cox.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Oct 8 22:14:10 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2008 23:14:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] On-Going Issues In-Reply-To: <20081008234928.R4NBI.61663.imail@eastrmwml44> References: <20081008234928.R4NBI.61663.imail@eastrmwml44> Message-ID: <48ED8512.6020200@ktc.com> Good to hear that someone else is having fun with their MG. That's why we have 'em, right? Drive it more! CR Bernd wrote: > nope still driving the 71 B every day, top down weather here in the southern part of Virginia for the past few days. > > > > ---- Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: >> Gee, what happened? Did everyone hibernate along with their cars? >> >> We put 100 miles on our B today. Saw pretty Hill Country, had a >> (very) few glasses of wine and met some nice folks. A very enjoyable >> sporty car day! The B just buzzed along....... >> >> CR >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> >> You are subscribed as 1971mgb at cox.net >> >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 10 08:27:51 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 09:27:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] International Motorsports Hall of Fame Message-ID: Neat site that shows all of the inductees plus a drawing of them and a blurb about their career. http://www.motorsportshalloffame.com/main/03_halloffame_main.htm or http://tinyurl.com/4uwcnx From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Fri Oct 10 14:28:17 2008 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 16:28:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Where are you? Message-ID: <6325656A-2FBA-4051-9C98-8EB59D9A21B8@tampabay.rr.com> Anybody getting messages from the group? Seems to have gone silent over the past few days. Dave Houser From wellner.christian at navy.mil Tue Oct 7 12:12:56 2008 From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 14:12:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Article From MG Octagon In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF010A94AF@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil> Guys, Was catching up on reading the MG digests and saw a lot of discussion on oils for MGs and older cars. Below is an article that appeared in MG OCTAGON on oils. I have no association with or interest in FPP, Inc. Skip '74 B Upkeep and Performance Hints Motor Oils Are Not What They Used to Be by Keith Ausell About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc-diallkyl-dithiophosphate (zDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere. A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly. This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came out: It's today's "modern" API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines. Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Redline). Their response: "We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products". They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don't have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the "new, improved and approved" ones that destroy flat tappet engines! "We just build the best lubricants possible". Sounds stupid, doesn't it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars. To top this off our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to "warn us" of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! "The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers". They are recommending that, for now at least. There must be a proper oil additive put in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is needed by their statement: Use diesel rated oils that are usually available at auto stores and truck stops. Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was "VERY-aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn't rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the "bad news" we have been finding. Comp Cams put out "#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts". They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was "While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from their "shelf oil ". Next question: Now what do we do? From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) "Use oils rated for diesel use". Delco (Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other quality petroleum based oils. They are not API formulated and have the zinc dithiophosphate we need in weights we are familiar with. From the camshaft manufacturer (Crane): "use our additive" for the first 500 miles. From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier to your oil, it's only about $14.00 for each oil change for an 8 ounce can. (This problem seems to be something GM has known about for some time!) >From Redline Oil: Use our street formulated synthetics. They have what we need! From Castrol: We are beginning to see a pattern emerging on older cars. It may he advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such as oils that are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle oils and other specified diesel oils. Last question: So what are we at Foreign Parts Positively going to do? After much research we are switching to Redline Street rated oils and stocking the Castrol Products that are diesel rated. This is a difficult decision as we have been a dealer and great believer in all Castrol Products for over 40 years. We have been using Castro! Syntech oil in new engines for about 3 years so the cost difference is minimal on new engines. The actual cost in operation is also less as the additive package in Redline makes a 1-year or up to 18,000 mile change recommended! Yes it is a long change interval but with lowered sulfur levels and the elimination of lead and many other chemicals in the fuels there are less contaminants in our oil from the fuel which is the major contributor to oil degradation. We will continue to offer the Castrol products but will now only stock the suggested diesel oils that they produce. Too many things are starting to show up on this subject and it has cost us money and time. Be aware that "New and Improved"', or even products we have been using for many years destroys our cars as it isn't the same stuff we were getting even a year ago. If you have any additional input let us know. We need to let every flat tappet engine owner. i.e.: every British Car owner know that things are changing and we MUST meet the challenge. Keith Ansell - President Foreign Parts Positively Inc. www.ForeignPartsPositively.com From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sat Oct 11 11:11:43 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:11:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Where are you? In-Reply-To: <6325656A-2FBA-4051-9C98-8EB59D9A21B8@tampabay.rr.com> References: <6325656A-2FBA-4051-9C98-8EB59D9A21B8@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: <40b437200810111011m4151b3d0u8ee336422434132f@mail.gmail.com> I think we are all here. It's just gone quiet. Regards, Simon On Fri, Oct 10, 2008 at 1:28 PM, W. David Houser wrote: > Anybody getting messages from the group? Seems to have gone silent over the > past few days. > Dave Houser From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net Fri Oct 10 08:16:32 2008 From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (Sam DeSalvo) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 10:16:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] motor Message-ID: <664C077588ED47258DED3FB48BFAF7DE@VALUEDECECF7F4> Hi Folks, I have a disassembled "77 MGB motor for sale. $100/offer. Trying to clean out my workshop. Sam 585-394-3549 or e-mail. From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Fri Oct 10 09:31:38 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 08:31:38 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Mgs] 35th Annual ALL MG Parts Exchange, Fullerton, CA - 11-23-08 Message-ID: <15953945.1223652698668.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> The Vintage MG Club of Southern California will hold the 35th Annual ALL MG Parts Exchange o Sunday, November 23, 2008. o 7:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. o College Park, College of Communications, 2600 E. Nutwood Avenue, Fullerton, CA Across the street from Cal. State University - Fullerton. Parts from 1929 to 1980 MG's can be found. In addition, there will be a Food Booth on site. o Admission is $5.00. Vendor spaces are $20.00 for the first space, and $10.00 for each additional parking space. o For more information contact John Seim, kingseim at earthlink.net Don Kosup, dkosup at sbcglobal Bob Christian , boppinbob at sbcglobal From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 11 11:39:29 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:39:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] motor In-Reply-To: <664C077588ED47258DED3FB48BFAF7DE@VALUEDECECF7F4> Message-ID: <477381.97012.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> where is it??? --- On Fri, 10/10/08, Sam DeSalvo wrote: From: Sam DeSalvo Subject: [Mgs] motor To: "MG List" Date: Friday, October 10, 2008, 9:16 AM Hi Folks, I have a disassembled "77 MGB motor for sale. $100/offer. Trying to clean out my workshop. Sam 585-394-3549 or e-mail. From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 11 13:50:57 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:50:57 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Silence In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0810100849m61e284cv771122fed3df3b91@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <> Patton & all, pretty sure Mark's server 'send' ability was down as ALL the Lists I am on have been 'silent'. Seems like he is getting it back !! From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Oct 11 20:48:15 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 19:48:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] motor Message-ID: <851801.76860.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> In his workshop! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: oliver To: MG List Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 1:39:29 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] motor where is it??? --- On Fri, 10/10/08, Sam DeSalvo wrote: From: Sam DeSalvo Subject: [Mgs] motor To: "MG List" Date: Friday, October 10, 2008, 9:16 AM Hi Folks, I have a disassembled "77 MGB motor for sale. $100/offer. Trying to clean out my workshop. Sam 585-394-3549 or e-mail. _______________________________________________ From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Oct 12 06:10:33 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 07:10:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] motor In-Reply-To: <851801.76860.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <851801.76860.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B41374A-6607-4C01-B790-46CA8F9BE829@gmail.com> The area code is Rochester, NY. On Oct 11, 2008, at 9:48 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > In his workshop! > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: oliver > To: MG List > Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 1:39:29 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] motor > > where is it??? > > --- On Fri, 10/10/08, Sam DeSalvo wrote: > > From: Sam DeSalvo > Subject: [Mgs] motor > To: "MG List" > Date: Friday, October 10, 2008, 9:16 AM > > Hi Folks, > I have a disassembled "77 MGB motor for sale. $100/offer. Trying to > clean > out > my workshop. > Sam > 585-394-3549 or e-mail. > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From cat_tail at comcast.net Sun Oct 12 10:18:31 2008 From: cat_tail at comcast.net (Rick deOlazarra) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 16:18:31 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP Oil Additive Message-ID: <101220081618.1398.48F22357000883F700000576220700295304070E9BA19B0E0C@comcast.net> Take a look at this site; with all the confusing claims and uncertainties, this seemed to be the most direct and simple way to put the ZDDP issue behind me. From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Oct 12 10:40:14 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 11:40:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP Oil Additive In-Reply-To: <101220081618.1398.48F22357000883F700000576220700295304070E9BA19B0E0C@comcast.net> References: <101220081618.1398.48F22357000883F700000576220700295304070E9BA19B0E0C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <48F2286E.2050501@ktc.com> Did you forget to put the link in? CR Rick deOlazarra wrote: > Take a look at this site; with all the confusing claims and uncertainties, this seemed to be the most direct and simple way to put the ZDDP issue behind me. > _______________________________________________ From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Oct 12 10:56:24 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 12:56:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Kangol BLC seat belt cover decal/sticker help Message-ID: <000601c92c8b$7d195be0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> I've found a pretty good of Kangol seat belt hardware recently for the MGB. The original buckles had broken tabs and some scuffs and cracks, but did have the original BLC "Lift" decals on the buckle. The ones I purchased have the Kangol name "Lift" decals....Does anyone know a source when I could purchase the orginal BLC Lift decals for the buckles? Appreciate the help, thanks. Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 13 16:55:37 2008 From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 18:55:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] starter relay Message-ID: All, can someone tell me just exactly what the starter relay does. And how can I tell if its not working. My 70 B will not start despite a new battery, a rebuilt starter and solenoid. All I get when I turn the key is a clicking noise which before I replaced it I would have guessed was a bad solenoid. I've checked all the wires and connections so I'm thinking it's the relay. Any thoughts? Tuck From rocknatural at gmail.com Tue Oct 14 12:25:37 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 13:25:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] starter relay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48F4E421.8020706@gmail.com> Tuck Southworth wrote: > All, > can someone tell me just exactly what the starter relay does. And how can I > tell if its not working. > My 70 B will not start despite a new battery, a rebuilt starter and solenoid. > All I get when I turn > the key is a clicking noise which before I replaced it I would have guessed > was a bad solenoid. > I've checked all the wires and connections so I'm thinking it's the relay. Sounds to me like oxidized battery connections. Lead oxide looks just like lead, but it's an insulator rather than a conductor. Remove both battery cables and scrape the inside of the clamps and the outside of the terminals with a sharp knife, then replace and tighten the clamps. What's happening here is that there's enough current to operate the solenoid, but not enough to operate the starter, so the solenoid chatters. -The Roxter -- From mgbob at juno.com Tue Oct 14 13:21:19 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 15:21:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] starter relay Message-ID: <20081014.152119.2744.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Tuck, What the relay does is to be activated by a small amount of current from igntion/starter switch and its small wires to switch a much larger current on larger wires to go to whatever needs the larger current. Chances are, though, with the situation you describe, it's not the relay or solenoid at fault, but the connection at the battery. The Roxter described that in his reply. It's a nuisance when that happens, thanks to awkward access and its happening sometimes for no apparent reason. I had a cable/battery connection that went bad regularly despite frequent use of battery brush and dilectric grease. A new battery and new cable solved the problem. Relays tend to fail silently and if the solenoid is chattering, which it seems to be, solenoid is receiving electricity via the relay. Bob On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 18:55:37 -0400 Tuck Southworth writes: > All, > can someone tell me just exactly what the starter relay does. And > how can I > tell if its not working. > My 70 B will not start despite a new battery, a rebuilt starter and > solenoid. > All I get when I turn > the key is a clicking noise which before I replaced it I would have > guessed > was a bad solenoid. > I've checked all the wires and connections so I'm thinking it's the > relay. > > Any thoughts? > > Tuck ____________________________________________________________ Get the shot you need with a discreet new spy camera. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m1EqvDT25JhvsuQcZ3l7Sz6tPGmaj5vJkNvkHuGbj9BOHdj/ From james.f.juhas at snet.net Thu Oct 16 13:33:56 2008 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 15:33:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] starter relay In-Reply-To: <20081014.152119.2744.11.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20081014.152119.2744.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <48F79724.1010308@snet.net> Oxidized or otherwise crappy connections at the starter solenoid or anywhere between the battery and the starter solenoid can produce the same chattering effect. Look there if the battery cleansing doesn't help. Bob Howard wrote: > Tuck, > What the relay does is to be activated by a small amount of current > from igntion/starter switch and its small wires to switch a much larger > current on larger wires to go to whatever needs the larger current. > Chances are, though, with the situation you describe, it's not the > relay or solenoid at fault, but the connection at the battery. The > Roxter described that in his reply. It's a nuisance when that happens, > thanks to awkward access and its happening sometimes for no apparent > reason. I had a cable/battery connection that went bad regularly despite > frequent use of battery brush and dilectric grease. A new battery and new > cable solved the problem. > Relays tend to fail silently and if the solenoid is chattering, which > it seems to be, solenoid is receiving electricity via the relay. > Bob > > > > On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 18:55:37 -0400 Tuck Southworth > writes: > >> All, >> can someone tell me just exactly what the starter relay does. And >> how can I >> tell if its not working. >> My 70 B will not start despite a new battery, a rebuilt starter and >> solenoid. >> All I get when I turn >> the key is a clicking noise which before I replaced it I would have >> guessed >> was a bad solenoid. >> I've checked all the wires and connections so I'm thinking it's the >> relay. >> >> Any thoughts? >> >> Tuck >> > ____________________________________________________________ > Get the shot you need with a discreet new spy camera. Click now! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m1EqvDT25JhvsuQcZ3l7Sz6tPGmaj5vJkNvkHuGbj9BOHdj/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From glenfel at sympatico.ca Sat Oct 18 07:21:17 2008 From: glenfel at sympatico.ca (Glenfel) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:21:17 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) Subject: [Mgs] Test Message-ID: test [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of faint_grain.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of imstp_animation_butterflies_en_020908.gif] From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 18 08:27:55 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 08:27:55 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] An interesting read !!! Message-ID: >From a Bugeye List. Proves Big Brother is alive and well in silly Kali-land. Ed ******************************************************************* I have a question, for the guys in California. I read a story about police raiding a Car Enthusiast Gathering and ticket cars that have been modified. While parked. They where tuner guys, is this a regular MO for CA Police? This is the link to the story. Since some of BE owners prepare their cars, for extra horsepower, handling etc,could they be fined also? http://www.thenewspaper.com/news/23/2302.asp Thanks everyone Michael 1961 Bugeye __._,_.___ From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Oct 18 08:05:49 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 00:35:49 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] Test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51470DB5-0294-4B12-9D28-91906E1BDF79@erickson.on.net> On 18/10/2008, at 11:51 PM, Glenfel wrote: > test > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a > name of faint_grain.jpg] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a > name of imstp_animation_butterflies_en_020908.gif] Nope you can't post pictures :-) From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 18 19:00:31 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 20:00:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 17, Issue 12 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61E93878-D211-4A39-B637-70BF137D1B81@sbcglobal.net> It is bad enough they do this to raise cash but as we move to a socialist run country this election, get ready for more of this. Send those polluters to the junkyard they will say as they fine you for owning a vehicle that spews excessive hydrocarbons. On Oct 18, 2008, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > >> From a Bugeye List. > Proves Big Brother is alive and well in silly Kali-land. > > Ed > ******************************************************************* > I have a question, for the guys in California. > I read a story about police raiding a Car Enthusiast Gathering > and ticket cars that have been modified. While parked. > They where tuner guys, is this a regular MO for CA Police? > This is the link to the story. Since some of BE owners prepare > their cars, for extra horsepower, handling etc,could they be fined > also? > > http://www.thenewspaper.com/news/23/2302.asp > > Thanks everyone > Michael > 1961 Bugeye From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Oct 18 19:12:09 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 11:42:09 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 17, Issue 12 In-Reply-To: <61E93878-D211-4A39-B637-70BF137D1B81@sbcglobal.net> References: <61E93878-D211-4A39-B637-70BF137D1B81@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <52CE4122-CC3A-4CAB-A176-1154C0B27A35@erickson.on.net> On 19/10/2008, at 11:30 AM, Mike Duvall wrote: > as we move to a socialist run country this election, I think that is a tad hysterical, Mike... the chances of America becoming a "socialist run country" are about the same as those of me buying a Triumph. ;-) From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 18 20:16:27 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 20:16:27 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 17, Issue 12 In-Reply-To: <61E93878-D211-4A39-B637-70BF137D1B81@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <> Funniest part IS Mike, my BEATER '70 Camino (I have last 'sniffer test results' that I need to put up on my site - passed), my driver '70 Camino (Pics on my site in Spec. Cars & Spec. People) (also PASSED), my wife's Black Tulip MGB (Murial) AND my '63 A-H BJ-7 Big Healey do NOT "spew" and latter 2 DO pass requirements via testing with my shop 'sniffer'. Yet you oughta see the expressway Semis SPEWING the Chicago Land like NO TOMORROW!! Even very later ones. Think they are gonna get hauled off?? NAH!! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Oct 19 06:48:30 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 13:48:30 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] starter relay References: Message-ID: Low voltage and/or bad connections can cause this. Usually the problem is a flat battery, but it can also be bad connections at the battery or starter solenoid. Rarely it can be bad connections in the voltage supply to the starter relay or from it to the solenoid. It can also be a heat-damaged solenoid, but this is more usual on V8s with the proximity of starter and left-hand down-pipe. Initially the voltage is good enough to operate the relay, which operates the solenoid, which connects power to the starter motor. This takes a massive amount of current in comparison to everything else and always results in a reduction of battery voltage, normally to about 10v. That is more than enough to keep the relay and solenoid operated and the crank and start the engine. But if a weak battery, bad connections or some other fault causes the voltage at either relay or solenoid to drop below its holding point, it will release. This removes power from the motor, voltage goes up again, relay/solenoid operate again, motor is powered again, voltage drops again and so on. Check the battery voltage on the *posts* while cranking. If either 6v battery is much below 5v or a 12v battery much below 10v that is suspect. If that's OK measure the voltage between the starter solenoid battery cable post and a good body ground, and then between the post and the engine block. Ideally these will only be a few tenths lower than the battery post voltages (sum of the 6v battery voltages), if they more than a volt lower you have bad connections which are worth investigating. If the 2nd measurement to the engine block is lower than the first to the body the engine/gearbox ground has bad connections. If these two are much the same but they are lower than the battery post voltages then either the battery connections, battery ground cable to body connection, battery cable to solenoid connections, or link cable connections between 6v batteries are bad. Remember if you have one bad connection due to age you probably have more than one. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- My 70 B will not start despite a new battery, a rebuilt starter and solenoid. All I get when I turn the key is a clicking noise From mgb72 at airmail.net Sun Oct 19 09:03:55 2008 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 10:03:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Question In-Reply-To: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF010A94AF@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil> References: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF010A94AF@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil> Message-ID: <000001c931fc$0bf9ce10$23ed6a30$@net> Anyone, Diesel rated oil has been mentioned many times in these discussions. Is Rotella in the group of "diesel rated", or does rotella provide what is needed? Just looking for a simple answer, my eyes are bleeding already from reading all the multi-point counter point discussions. I will be driving to a show this week and just need a solution for the oil change I am about to do as I prepare the car for the drive to the event. Thanks, Chad '72B 1.8l From barrie at look.ca Sun Oct 19 12:21:59 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 14:21:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Question In-Reply-To: <000001c931fc$0bf9ce10$23ed6a30$@net> References: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF010A94AF@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil> <000001c931fc$0bf9ce10$23ed6a30$@net> Message-ID: Chad, I too have been pouring through all the data on oils. I went to my local, low key. top notch car. old style car shop. It is a backstreet place with all sorts of goodies and very good prices. I asked them if they had Valvoline VR1 because no other "oil" shops had it. Yes, they said and led me to a stack of it. "All the race guys use this", he said. To which I replied "sold". While doing up my bill he mentioned that the chap next door, an incredibly well known breather on heads, uses nothing else. It was more than enough to convince me. I had tried the Castrol web site - but when I asked the simple question of which oil they recommended or which oil had the most ZDDP - all I got was gobbledegook from their "technical" dept. At 11:03 AM 10/19/2008, Chad Cooper wrote: >Anyone, >Diesel rated oil has been mentioned many times in these discussions. Is >Rotella in the group of "diesel rated", or does rotella provide what is >needed? Just looking for a simple answer, my eyes are bleeding already from >reading all the multi-point counter point discussions. I will be driving to >a show this week and just need a solution for the oil change I am about to >do as I prepare the car for the drive to the event. >Thanks, > >Chad >'72B 1.8l >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Sun Oct 19 13:25:14 2008 From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 15:25:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Greetings All, If one wishes to use Castrol, try the 4T four stroke motorcycle oil in 20w/50. It is rated SG and SH. Regular GTX 20w/50 is new formula. Syntec 20w/50 should be OK but seems harder to find and might cost more. In the UK, you have Castrol Classic which should be fine. Eric in Florida -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 2:22 PM To: Chad Cooper; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Question Chad, I too have been pouring through all the data on oils. I went to my local, low key. top notch car. old style car shop. It is a backstreet place with all sorts of goodies and very good prices. I asked them if they had Valvoline VR1 because no other "oil" shops had it. Yes, they said and led me to a stack of it. "All the race guys use this", he said. To which I replied "sold". While doing up my bill he mentioned that the chap next door, an incredibly well known breather on heads, uses nothing else. It was more than enough to convince me. I had tried the Castrol web site - but when I asked the simple question of which oil they recommended or which oil had the most ZDDP - all I got was gobbledegook from their "technical" dept. At 11:03 AM 10/19/2008, Chad Cooper wrote: >Anyone, >Diesel rated oil has been mentioned many times in these discussions. Is >Rotella in the group of "diesel rated", or does rotella provide what is >needed? Just looking for a simple answer, my eyes are bleeding already from >reading all the multi-point counter point discussions. I will be driving to >a show this week and just need a solution for the oil change I am about to >do as I prepare the car for the drive to the event. >Thanks, > >Chad >'72B 1.8l >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.1/1732 - Release Date: 10/18/2008 6:01 PM From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 19 14:09:05 2008 From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 16:09:05 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] thanks Message-ID: Just a quick note of thanks to all who responded to my question about the starter relay. As it turns out that wasn't the problem. It was, as just about everybody said a bad ground on the battery. I have a shut off on the negative side and there was just enough corrosion underneath the shut off to reduce the voltage to the solenoid. I cleaned it all up replaced the cable and all is fine. Tuck From mgb72 at airmail.net Sun Oct 19 14:40:36 2008 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 15:40:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000b01c9322a$f1de9040$d59bb0c0$@net> Eric, Thank you and Thank you... Just what I wanted... A direct no BS answer. -----Original Message----- From: Eric J Russell [mailto:ejrussell at mebtel.net] Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 2:14 PM To: mgb72 at airmail.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Question Yes & yes. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > Diesel rated oil has been mentioned many times in these discussions. > Is Rotella in the group of "diesel rated", or does rotella provide > what is needed? From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 19 14:59:05 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 15:59:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] thanks References: Message-ID: <002b01c9322e$cf89f8a0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> i, too had an issue with a ground side shut off. i thought i had a bad battery, but cleaned up all the terminals and all was well. until the fuel pump went . . . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tuck Southworth" To: Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 3:09 PM Subject: [Mgs] thanks > Just a quick note of thanks to all who responded to my question about the > starter relay. > As it turns out that wasn't the problem. It was, as just about everybody > said > a bad ground on the battery. I have a shut off on the negative side and > there was just enough corrosion underneath the shut off to reduce the > voltage > to the solenoid. I cleaned it all up replaced the cable and all is fine. > > Tuck From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Oct 19 15:22:04 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 14:22:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] An interesting read !!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Life long California resident, and life long car nut here. Even as a died in the wool car nut, it is easy to see the linked to article was about as far and as objective as an editorial in Pravda. Street racing is a problem, not only in California but pretty much everywhere else I travel to. Last time I was in Vancouver BC there had been several recent deaths due to street racers, and as a consequence the police were cracking down on the "ricers". Here in California, tinted windows will not automatically get you a cite and search, as Don said. I have tinted windows on my daily driver, and I don't get stopped. No front plate will get you a cite here as they are required by law. I can tell you that there are tons of modified cars here in California, and very few of them ever get tickets. Ed, you call tell the guys on the Bugeye list that the way law here in California is written is that there is no way in hell they can get an exhibition of speed ticket. However they just might get an imitation of speed ticket if they try to race. ~grins~ On Sat, Oct 18, 2008 at 7:27 AM, Ed's Shop wrote: > >From a Bugeye List. From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sun Oct 19 18:18:56 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 17:18:56 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] An interesting read !!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <40b437200810191718g77595a7r6f78ae9bec6ce90@mail.gmail.com> On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 2:22 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Here in California, tinted windows will not automatically get you a cite and > search, as Don said. I have tinted windows on my daily driver, and I don't > get stopped. No front plate will get you a cite here as they are required > by law. > It depends where you live. I haven't had a front plate on my MGA for 11 years. No ticket in all that time. Regards, Simon From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 20 07:04:50 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:04:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Question References: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF010A94AF@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil><000001c931fc$0bf9ce10$23ed6a30$@net> Message-ID: <145036A000B84BE68447E3E0A4A62D0C@Three> Ho ho! ----- Original Message ----- I too have been pouring through all the data on oils... From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 20 07:25:18 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 08:25:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] coming carbon tax In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm always a little lighthearted but seriously, read today's WSJ journal on Obama's energy policy. They will skip the testing and go right to taxation. We are all likely to pay a carbon tax simply by owning an old car. :( "Jason Grumet is currently executive director of an outfit called the National Commission on Energy Policy and one of Mr. Obama's key policy aides. In an interview last week with Bloomberg, Mr. Grumet said that come January the Environmental Protection Agency "would initiate those rulemakings" that classify carbon as a dangerous pollutant under current clean air laws. That move would impose new regulation and taxes across the entire economy, something that is usually the purview of Congress. Mr. Grumet warned that "in the absence of Congressional action" 18 months after Mr. Obama's inauguration, the EPA would move ahead with its own unilateral carbon crackdown anyway." > > > On 19/10/2008, at 11:30 AM, Mike Duvall wrote: > >> as we move to a socialist run country this election, > > I think that is a tad hysterical, Mike... the chances of America > becoming a "socialist run country" are about the same as those of me > buying a Triumph. > > ;-) > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 20:16:27 -0600 > From: "Ed's Shop" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 17, Issue 12 > To: > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > < you for > owning a vehicle that spews excessive hydrocarbons.>> > > Funniest part IS Mike, my BEATER '70 Camino (I have last 'sniffer test > results' that I need to put up on my site - passed), my driver > '70 Camino > (Pics on my site in Spec. Cars & Spec. People) (also PASSED), my > wife's > Black Tulip MGB (Murial) AND my '63 A-H BJ-7 Big Healey do NOT > "spew" and latter 2 DO pass requirements via testing with my shop > 'sniffer'. > > Yet you oughta see the expressway Semis SPEWING the Chicago Land like > NO TOMORROW!! Even very later ones. > > Think they are gonna get hauled off?? NAH!! From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Oct 20 07:41:41 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 08:41:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] coming carbon tax In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That sounds like a pretty clear violation of the balance of powers. Not that all three branches don't step all over each others "domain" all the time anyway. On Oct 20, 2008, at 8:25 AM, Mike Duvall wrote: > I'm always a little lighthearted but seriously, read today's WSJ > journal on Obama's energy policy. They will skip the testing and go > right to taxation. We are all likely to pay a carbon tax simply by > owning an old car. :( > > "Jason Grumet is currently executive director of an outfit called the > National Commission on Energy Policy and one of Mr. Obama's key > policy aides. In an interview last week with Bloomberg, Mr. Grumet > said that come January the Environmental Protection Agency "would > initiate those rulemakings" that classify carbon as a dangerous > pollutant under current clean air laws. That move would impose new > regulation and taxes across the entire economy, something that is > usually the purview of Congress. Mr. Grumet warned that "in the > absence of Congressional action" 18 months after Mr. Obama's > inauguration, the EPA would move ahead with its own unilateral carbon > crackdown anyway." > > > >> >> >> On 19/10/2008, at 11:30 AM, Mike Duvall wrote: >> >>> as we move to a socialist run country this election, >> >> I think that is a tad hysterical, Mike... the chances of America >> becoming a "socialist run country" are about the same as those of me >> buying a Triumph. >> >> ;-) >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 3 >> Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 20:16:27 -0600 >> From: "Ed's Shop" >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 17, Issue 12 >> To: >> Message-ID: >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >> >> <> you for >> owning a vehicle that spews excessive hydrocarbons.>> >> >> Funniest part IS Mike, my BEATER '70 Camino (I have last 'sniffer >> test >> results' that I need to put up on my site - passed), my driver >> '70 Camino >> (Pics on my site in Spec. Cars & Spec. People) (also PASSED), my >> wife's >> Black Tulip MGB (Murial) AND my '63 A-H BJ-7 Big Healey do NOT >> "spew" and latter 2 DO pass requirements via testing with my shop >> 'sniffer'. >> >> Yet you oughta see the expressway Semis SPEWING the Chicago Land like >> NO TOMORROW!! Even very later ones. >> >> Think they are gonna get hauled off?? NAH!! > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Oct 20 09:03:05 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 08:03:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] An interesting read !!! In-Reply-To: <40b437200810191718g77595a7r6f78ae9bec6ce90@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <651834.3819.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Sun, 10/19/08, Simon Matthews wrote: > It depends where you live. I haven't had a front plate > on my MGA for 11 years. No ticket in all that time. Here in Washington you aren't required to have a front plate on a car manufactured in a year in which they weren't required. Of course, you can't rely on a traffic cop knowing that law or which years are exempt. Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From eric at erickson.on.net Mon Oct 20 09:15:56 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 01:45:56 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] An interesting read !!! In-Reply-To: <651834.3819.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <651834.3819.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8277FA43-C355-4746-8145-37474EF2195B@erickson.on.net> On 21/10/2008, at 1:33 AM, David Breneman wrote: > --- On Sun, 10/19/08, Simon Matthews > wrote: > >> It depends where you live. I haven't had a front plate >> on my MGA for 11 years. No ticket in all that time. > > Here in Washington you aren't required to have a front plate I can tell you the law in South Australia! $175 fine! I forgot to put it back on after being out on the track. Grrrr All the "speed cameras" shoot you from behind so what is their problem :-) From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Oct 20 09:14:21 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 08:14:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] coming carbon tax In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <66763.11985.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Mon, 10/20/08, Paul Root wrote: > That sounds like a pretty clear violation of the balance of > powers. > Not that > all three branches don't step all over each others > "domain" all the time anyway. The problem is, when Congress sets these agencies up, they give them the power to write "regulations" that carry the force of law. Unelected bureaucrats for decades have been issuing these regulations with no oversight. That horse left the barn in the 1930s. I took a CO2 cylinder in to a local welding supply place Saturday to have it refilled. I don't weld, but I do buy a keg of beer for the occasional party. I was surprised when the fellow there opened the valve on the tank and let it run out completely empty (the regulator shuts it off at ~500 psi to prevent corrosion). He said "We have to empty them before we fill them." I told him that I wouldn't be surprised if in a few months that practice would be banned due to "global warming" and they'd have to install CO2 capture eequipment just like refrigeration maintenance facilities use. He just looked at me like I was nuts. We'll see... Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From barrie at look.ca Mon Oct 20 08:31:11 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:31:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Question In-Reply-To: <145036A000B84BE68447E3E0A4A62D0C@Three> References: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF010A94AF@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil> <000001c931fc$0bf9ce10$23ed6a30$@net> <145036A000B84BE68447E3E0A4A62D0C@Three> Message-ID: I thought everyone had missed that !! Paul, you were not asleep while you toiled ! At 09:04 AM 10/20/2008, Paul Hunt wrote: >Ho ho! >----- Original Message ----- >I too have been pouring through all the data on oils... Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Oct 20 10:49:29 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 11:49:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] An interesting read !!! In-Reply-To: <651834.3819.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <651834.3819.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48FCB699.6070306@gmail.com> David Breneman wrote: > --- On Sun, 10/19/08, Simon Matthews wrote: > > >> It depends where you live. I haven't had a front plate >> on my MGA for 11 years. No ticket in all that time. No front tags required for any vehicle in Oklahoma, also no trailer tags. Good idea for OK drivers to carry copy of statute when out of State (experience). -The Roxter -- From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Oct 20 10:55:38 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 11:55:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] coming carbon tax In-Reply-To: <66763.11985.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <66763.11985.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48FCB80A.5000005@gmail.com> David Breneman wrote: > --- On Mon, 10/20/08, Paul Root wrote: > > >> That sounds like a pretty clear violation of the balance of >> powers. >> Not that >> all three branches don't step all over each others >> "domain" all the time anyway. >> > > The problem is, when Congress sets these agencies up, they > give them the power to write "regulations" that carry the > force of law. Unelected bureaucrats for decades have > been issuing these regulations with no oversight. That > horse left the barn in the 1930s. > > I took a CO2 cylinder in to a local welding supply place > Saturday to have it refilled. I don't weld, but I do buy > a keg of beer for the occasional party. I was surprised > when the fellow there opened the valve on the tank and > let it run out completely empty (the regulator shuts it > off at ~500 psi to prevent corrosion). He said "We have > to empty them before we fill them." I told him that I > wouldn't be surprised if in a few months that practice > would be banned due to "global warming" and they'd have to > install CO2 capture eequipment just like refrigeration > maintenance facilities use. He just looked at me like > I was nuts. We'll see... This "global warming" nonsense will soon disappear. There were no sunspots in the month of August and the solar flux is down around 50%, indicating the start of the new ice age. The whole matter is just another Chicken Little scenario, a so-far successful attempt to lead the voters around by the nose, by lies, obfuscation and misdirection. http://www.global-dumbing.com/ -The Roxter -- From rolindsay at yahoo.com Mon Oct 20 11:03:32 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 17:03:32 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] coming carbon tax Message-ID: That's why they have to say "climate change" now, because they don't know if the climate is warming, cooling or staying the same. They just know that it gives their puny lives purpose to believe in something. Personally, I believe in iron, oil and engineering, and that man is just not that important - and he is certainly not that powerful! :-) Rick ------Original Message------ From: The Roxter Sender: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Oct 20, 2008 11:55 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] coming carbon tax David Breneman wrote: > --- On Mon, 10/20/08, Paul Root wrote: > > >> That sounds like a pretty clear violation of the balance of >> powers. >> Not that >> all three branches don't step all over each others >> "domain" all the time anyway. >> > > The problem is, when Congress sets these agencies up, they > give them the power to write "regulations" that carry the > force of law. Unelected bureaucrats for decades have > been issuing these regulations with no oversight. That > horse left the barn in the 1930s. > > I took a CO2 cylinder in to a local welding supply place > Saturday to have it refilled. I don't weld, but I do buy > a keg of beer for the occasional party. I was surprised > when the fellow there opened the valve on the tank and > let it run out completely empty (the regulator shuts it > off at ~500 psi to prevent corrosion). He said "We have > to empty them before we fill them." I told him that I > wouldn't be surprised if in a few months that practice > would be banned due to "global warming" and they'd have to > install CO2 capture eequipment just like refrigeration > maintenance facilities use. He just looked at me like > I was nuts. We'll see... This "global warming" nonsense will soon disappear. There were no sunspots in the month of August and the solar flux is down around 50%, indicating the start of the new ice age. The whole matter is just another Chicken Little scenario, a so-far successful attempt to lead the voters around by the nose, by lies, obfuscation and misdirection. http://www.global-dumbing.com/ -The Roxter -- You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 20 11:10:23 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:10:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] An interesting read !!! In-Reply-To: <8277FA43-C355-4746-8145-37474EF2195B@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: Obviously, it's so you can get the license number of the truck that runs over you. Or, more seriously, presumably it's so when that sod makes an illegal left turn (or right turn, in your case) in front of you, you can phone in his license number... To me, at least, there is a legitiimate public interest in being able to identify roadgoing malefactors from either direction. It is not, as some feel, a conspiracy to uglify their cars. What I don't understand is how so many drivers around here get away with no plates, just the cardboard dealer advertisement, which they seem to use as a license to speed, change lanes recklessly, and run red lights. on 10/20/08 8:15 AM, Eric at eric at erickson.on.net wrote: > All the "speed cameras" shoot you from behind so what is their > problem :-) -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 20 11:20:09 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:20:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] coming carbon tax In-Reply-To: <48FCB80A.5000005@gmail.com> Message-ID: Uh huh. And whose financial interest is this massive conspiracy designed to further? I suppose the Sierra Club raked in $8 billion in profits last quarter? Oh no, my mistake, that was Exxon/Mobil. Gimme a break... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/20/08 9:55 AM, The Roxter at rocknatural at gmail.com wrote: > This "global warming" nonsense will soon disappear. There were no sunspots in > the month of August and the solar flux is down around 50%, indicating the > start of the new ice age. The whole matter is just another Chicken Little > scenario, a so-far successful attempt to lead the voters around by the nose, > by lies, obfuscation and misdirection. > > http://www.global-dumbing.com/ > > -The Roxter From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 20 11:53:00 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:53:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] coming carbon tax In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Only powerful enough to significantly alter the ecosystem, climate, flora and fauna of the majority of the earth's land surface in the last 10,000 years. North Africa, the entire Middle East, all of Europe, Asia Minor, the Indian subcontinent, most of China, Australia... It would be much briefer, though more difficult, to list the unaffected regions (Antarctica? No, it's melting... Borneo? It's being deforested, as is the Amazon). You don't think humans are powerful agents of climate change? Hell, termites are powerful agents affecting climate. The difference is, there are roughly the same number of termites today as there were 10,000 years ago, and they haven't advanced their technology any in the interval. Meanwhile, the number of humans has increased enormously, and they have leveraged their effect astronomically. A stone age hunter's carbon contribution was limited to farts. Compare that to what it takes to support one first-world middle class citizen in the lifestyle to which he or she is accustomed. It takes 32 times more resources to support one American than one contemporary Kenyan, and even the Kenyan subsistence farmer is emitting much more carbon than the neolithic hunter (he has goats, cows, mayber even a kerosene lamp or a generator, and he burns his fields). The simple fact is, you can't project an extractive economy indefinitely into the future, and neither can you treat the atmosphere as a dumping ground indefinitely. It's a closed system, however much you may wish it to be otherwise. And no amount of engineering is going to be able to get over that fact. You might not find it convenient or comfortable to admit it at present, but you will be forced to acknowledge reality eventually, whether you like it or not. You are correct in believing that man is not powerful enough to "destroy" the earth. But he is certainly capable of making it into an increasingly unpleasant and unproductive environment, which may even render him extinct. At which point the earth moves on without us, as it did without the dinosaurs. Personally, I don't find 'divine intervention' a very plausible solution. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/20/08 10:03 AM, rolindsay at yahoo.com at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > Personally, I > believe in iron, oil and engineering, and that man is just not that important > - and he is certainly not that powerful! :-) > > Rick From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 20 13:25:22 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:25:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) Message-ID: <3DC60875-1154-43AE-AB6C-0BF739B3A109@sbcglobal.net> Actually Max, you can invest in "Sierra Club Investments" that let you invest your money in environmentally friendly projects. For every carbon dollar you spend, you can invest a dollar in carbon credits towards such projects. General Electric is investing heavily in these "green" technologies. They make about 10% Exxon paid 65 billion in taxes from 2003 to 2007 and made 19 billlion in profits. While they are a big company, their profits on investment is about 10%. This is far less than say Microsoft who runs about a 20% profit or Google which had a 23% profit, beverages and tobacco along with pharmaceuticals are almost 20% in profits. Electronics giant LG had profits up by 505% in 2007. It is pretty easy to attack politicians and big business but lets get the facts straight. By the way, the people who generally own all these companies are retirement funds or the super rich like Warren Buffet who increased his money by 29% last year. Message: 9 Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:20:09 -0700 From: Max Heim Subject: Re: [Mgs] coming carbon tax To: MG List Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Uh huh. And whose financial interest is this massive conspiracy designed to further? I suppose the Sierra Club raked in $8 billion in profits last quarter? Oh no, my mistake, that was Exxon/Mobil. Gimme a break... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From barneymg at mgaguru.com Mon Oct 20 13:42:09 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:42:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <3DC60875-1154-43AE-AB6C-0BF739B3A109@sbcglobal.net> References: <3DC60875-1154-43AE-AB6C-0BF739B3A109@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <20081020194241.4A3FE18787E@autox.team.net> Fact is that while Exxon's 19 billion is a 10% profit on invested capital, the government's 65 billion dollar "grab" is 34% on Exxon's investment during the same period. It would be nice if we could limit government not to take more profit than the company generating the cash flow. At 02:25 PM 10/20/2008 -0500, Mike Duvall wrote: >.... >Exxon paid 65 billion in taxes from 2003 to 2007 and made 19 >billlion in profits. While they are a big company, their profits on >investment is about 10%. .... > >It is pretty easy to attack politicians and big business but lets >get the facts straight. >.... From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 20 15:21:10 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 16:21:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) References: <3DC60875-1154-43AE-AB6C-0BF739B3A109@sbcglobal.net> <20081020194241.4A3FE18787E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <55A90B8E8934434F83C2C3A7F7A3C71B@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" To: "Mike Duvall" ; Cc: Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 2:42 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] (no subject) Fact is that while Exxon's 19 billion is a 10% profit on invested capital, the government's 65 billion dollar "grab" is 34% on Exxon's investment during the same period. It would be nice if we could limit government not to take more profit than the company generating the cash flow. ========================== No matter who is paying the bill, it takes X amount of dollars to run the Gov't. For every dollar they don't get from highly profitable corporations, they need to get a dollar from citizens. All of you willing to pay more tax so Exxon Mobil (and others) can pay less, please form a line on the right. I don't see anybody in the line yet?! From lundgren at byu.net Mon Oct 20 15:26:17 2008 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 15:26:17 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <55A90B8E8934434F83C2C3A7F7A3C71B@Larry> References: <3DC60875-1154-43AE-AB6C-0BF739B3A109@sbcglobal.net> <20081020194241.4A3FE18787E@autox.team.net> <55A90B8E8934434F83C2C3A7F7A3C71B@Larry> Message-ID: <48FCF779.1020205@byu.net> You don't really think any corporation is just going to pay that tax do you? It will be loop holed, tax credited, covered via downsizing, or passed on to the consumer. It doesn't much matter which line you get in, if there is a tax, the people will be the ones paying it. The corporations are profitable for a reason. Larry Daniels wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > > > No matter who is paying the bill, it takes X amount of dollars to run the > Gov't. For every dollar they don't get from highly profitable corporations, > they need to get a dollar from citizens. All of you willing to pay more tax > so Exxon Mobil (and others) can pay less, please form a line on the right. > > I don't see anybody in the line yet?! > _______________________________________________ From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Oct 20 16:06:44 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 17:06:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <48FCF779.1020205@byu.net> References: <3DC60875-1154-43AE-AB6C-0BF739B3A109@sbcglobal.net> <20081020194241.4A3FE18787E@autox.team.net> <55A90B8E8934434F83C2C3A7F7A3C71B@Larry> <48FCF779.1020205@byu.net> Message-ID: Can we table this now? Gov't is big and evil. Corporations are big and evil. This is about cars. MGs to be specific. On Oct 20, 2008, at 4:26 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote: > You don't really think any corporation is just going to pay that tax > do > you? It will be loop holed, tax credited, covered via downsizing, or > passed on to the consumer. It doesn't much matter which line you get > in, > if there is a tax, the people will be the ones paying it. The > corporations are profitable for a reason. > > > Larry Daniels wrote: >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> >> No matter who is paying the bill, it takes X amount of dollars to >> run the >> Gov't. For every dollar they don't get from highly profitable >> corporations, >> they need to get a dollar from citizens. All of you willing to pay >> more tax >> so Exxon Mobil (and others) can pay less, please form a line on the >> right. >> >> I don't see anybody in the line yet?! >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ From shop at justbrits.com Mon Oct 20 21:22:00 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:22:00 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] An interesting read !!! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Actually Max, it IS an Officer Safety issue for same reason. <> Aren't they already stone, slap UGLY??? Actually, a plate might 'help' most of the crud out there today !! LOL From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Oct 25 09:21:57 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 11:21:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] BLC Decal search Message-ID: <000b01c936b5$6c51f220$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Thought I'd ask again to see if anyone has any ideas where I can get a pair of decals and stickers "BLC" for my Kangol belts (see picture). Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of BLC Lift Kangol.pdf] From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sun Oct 26 17:44:54 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 19:44:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Chicagoland Storage Space Neede Message-ID: <48720d20810261744j447b1cefx95b616a0a8a43f51@mail.gmail.com> I need a storage space for my car. I live west of Chicago. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jack From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sun Oct 26 18:19:54 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 18:19:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Chicagoland Storage Space Neede In-Reply-To: <48720d20810261744j447b1cefx95b616a0a8a43f51@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <183505.25236.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Sun, 10/26/08, Jack Feldman wrote: > I need a storage space for my car. I live west of Chicago. > Any suggestions? The Space Needle is awfully far west of Chicago. Can you narrow it down a little? :-) From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Oct 27 08:29:42 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 08:29:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] BLC Decal search In-Reply-To: <000b01c936b5$6c51f220$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0EE4105F@kb1.mossmotors.com> Dave: I have not seen any stickers of this type currently in production. Lot's of other stickers are available from numerous sources, but no one seems to have reproduced this one. Sorry. Kelvin Dodd Global Sourcing Engineer, Moss Motors. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner > Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 8:22 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] BLC Decal search > > Thought I'd ask again to see if anyone has any ideas where I > can get a pair of decals and stickers "BLC" for my Kangol > belts (see picture). Thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg, PA > 59 TR3A Apple Green > 70 MGB BRG > 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Oct 27 09:55:16 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 11:55:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] BLC Decal search In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0EE4105F@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0EE4105F@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <4905F274.9080108@gmail.com> Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > Dave: > > I have not seen any stickers of this type currently in production. > > Lot's of other stickers are available from numerous sources, but no one > seems to have reproduced this one. > > Sorry. > > Kelvin Dodd > Global Sourcing Engineer, Moss Motors. There's a company here called "Fast Signs" that does really good vinyl full color stickers from a .jpg or .bmp All of the stickers on my Cooper S came from them and have not faded at all after years in the sun. -The Roxter -- From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Oct 27 10:00:17 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 10:00:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] BLC Decal search In-Reply-To: <4905F274.9080108@gmail.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0EE410CB@kb1.mossmotors.com> Roxter: Good suggestion. There are some custom sticker companies, but I don't have any contacts. There was a guy at one of the vintage race events that I was at who made mylar, reflective stickers to replace the original cloisonne emblems on cars being raced. It doesn't make much sense to have an irreplacable original emblem on the nose of a Formula Ford that is getting grit thrown up on it every weekend. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of The Roxter > Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:55 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net >> "mgs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] BLC Decal search > > Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > > Dave: > > > > I have not seen any stickers of this type currently in production. > > > > Lot's of other stickers are available from numerous sources, but no > > one seems to have reproduced this one. > > > > Sorry. > > > > Kelvin Dodd > > Global Sourcing Engineer, Moss Motors. > There's a company here called "Fast Signs" that does really > good vinyl full color stickers from a .jpg or .bmp > > All of the stickers on my Cooper S came from them and have > not faded at all after years in the sun. > > -The Roxter From palte at gmx.net Tue Oct 28 12:23:37 2008 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 20:23:37 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Pressure Testing Message-ID: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> Dear fellow listers, I have a leak somewhere in the heater radiator or the heater valve of one of my other cars, a 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre. Were it an MGB, I would, of course, order new parts and exchange them, [mandatory MG content] but for this car it is almost impossible to get new parts and I have to resort to used items that I have had laying around for many, many years... Fitting these under the dash, however, is a PITA so I would like to pressure test them before fitting. Question: What pressure can I safely apply for radiator testing? I have compressed air @ 6 bar (~70 psi) at my disposal but I'm afraid that that will blow the radiator apart. Any recommendations anyone? Bert Holland, Europe -- "Feel free" - 5 GB Mailbox, 50 FreeSMS/Monat ... Jetzt GMX ProMail testen: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/promail From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk Tue Oct 28 12:40:25 2008 From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 15:40:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Pressure Testing References: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> Message-ID: <42AF6B232FA2466BA9BEBE5B6F5BDF1D@RicksPC> Bert Why not just take it to a radiator shop and have them test it. Most shops in the US will do this at no cost - I assume that shops in the Nederlands will do the same. Groeje Rick Webmaster for: ___________________________________________________________ http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr - The North American MGB Register http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil - North American Council of MG Registers http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature Coast English Car Club ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bert Palte" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 15:23 Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Pressure Testing > Dear fellow listers, > > I have a leak somewhere in the heater radiator > or the heater valve of one of my other cars, a 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre. > > Were it an MGB, I would, of course, order new parts and exchange them, > [mandatory MG content] but for this car it is almost impossible to get new > parts and I have to resort to used items that I have had laying around for > many, many years... > > Fitting these under the dash, however, is a PITA so I would like to > pressure test them before fitting. > > Question: What pressure can I safely apply for radiator testing? > I have compressed air @ 6 bar (~70 psi) at my disposal > but I'm afraid that that will blow the radiator apart. > > Any recommendations anyone? > > > Bert > Holland, Europe From barneymg at mgaguru.com Tue Oct 28 12:41:41 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 14:41:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Pressure Testing In-Reply-To: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> References: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> Message-ID: <20081028194148.45C85187896@autox.team.net> At 08:23 PM 10/28/2008 +0100, Bert Palte wrote: >.... >I have a leak somewhere in the heater radiator or the heater valve >of one of my other cars, a 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre. >.... >.... I would like to pressure test them before fitting. > >Question: What pressure can I safely apply for radiator testing? >.... 10 psi is plenty when looking for a leak. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_106.htm Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From don at napanet.net Tue Oct 28 13:13:57 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 12:13:57 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Pressure Testing In-Reply-To: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> References: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> Message-ID: <1225224837.490772852eadf@webmail.napanet.net> Bert, There is a tool available to pressure test automobile cooling systems. If you have cars and do your own repairs, it's worth owning such a tool. You pump up pressure manually with this device. Stant, among others, makes the tool, and you can find 'em on eBay used. That's where I bought mine. With such a tool, you can pressurize a cooling system slowly and carefully. Another possible route is to add Barsleak to your cooling system. It sounds too good to be true, but it worked in my Miata with a heater core leak. No adverse effects, and the leak was sealed. I don't normally believe in miracles, but sometimes they do happen. Don Scott Napa Valley CA USA 1973 MGB GT (for sale) 1991 Miata BRG 1962 MGA Mk II 1962 TR4 (seeking) Quoting Bert Palte : > Dear fellow listers, > > I have a leak somewhere in the heater radiator > or the heater valve of one of my other cars, a 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre. > > Were it an MGB, I would, of course, order new parts and exchange them, > [mandatory MG content] but for this car it is almost impossible to get new > parts and I have to resort to used items that I have had laying around for > many, many years... > > Fitting these under the dash, however, is a PITA so I would like to pressure > test them before fitting. > > Question: What pressure can I safely apply for radiator testing? > I have compressed air @ 6 bar (~70 psi) at my disposal > but I'm afraid that that will blow the radiator apart. > > Any recommendations anyone? > > > Bert > Holland, Europe From shop at justbrits.com Tue Oct 28 18:35:31 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 19:35:31 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Pressure Testing In-Reply-To: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> Message-ID: <<[mandatory MG content] >> Only has to be LBC, Bert!!!! And as Rick Brown said: "Most shops in the US will do this at no cost". Ed From sammler at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 29 20:34:02 2008 From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler") Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 22:34:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Master cylinder - size of ports -1600 MKII Message-ID: <49092B2A.5040806@bellsouth.net> I'm having problems with my front brakes (disk) not releasing completely upon removing my foot from the pedal. When driving it does release some but still drags. This has been a problem since I replaced the master cylinder with a rebuilt one and at the same time rebuilt the calipers and replaced the brake hoses with metal braided ones. I did this several months ago but I've only driven a few hundred miles since then, mostly town and country roads. I've followed Barney's suggestion to remove some of the gasket material, allowing the pistons to have a bit more return travel to make sure the port isn't blocked by one of the cups but that has not helped. Also, using DOT 5 brake fluid. If I remove the banjo fitting at the bottom of a caliper and then place the rubber tip of the nozzle on an air hose in that hole I can activate the pistons pneumatically. As soon as I release the pressure or remove the nozzle the pistons/pads withdraw and I can spin the rotor easily. Before taking the master cylinder apart I was looking at one I removed from my parts car. I assume that it has been rebuilt because it has "brass" sleeves. Was the original one sleeved? You can see from the picture that the larger port on both sides is the same size through the sleeve. The smaller hole in the brass sleeve is tiny compared to the size of the hole in the master cylinder casting. The drill bit is the size of the hole in the sleeve. Does anyone know the correct diameter for the two holes (actually 4 if you include the clutch side)? If the hole in the sleeve should be the same size as the hole in the casting could this smaller hole be the cause my dragging brakes? If a picture doesn't load use the following link. master cylinder Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Pat From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 31 04:13:02 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 11:13:02 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Master cylinder - size of ports -1600 MKII References: <49092B2A.5040806@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: <8B020F2A32694919B72099BE007DC5E3@Three> I can't see the size of port being an issue - as long as there *is* a port and it isn't blocked with debris. The size of the port would affect flow-rate but not static pressure. It's more likely to be the brake pedal not allowing the master piston to come back far enough, and maladjustment of the brake light switch is a cause of this. If the master was replaced, rebuilt, or even just removed and replaced you should check the adjustment of the switch. Basically unscrewing the switch causes it to close and the lights to glow, screwing it in with the pedal at rest to turn them off. It needs to be screwed in far enough to turn them off, but not too far that it stops the pedal fully releasing the master push-rod. The book says there should be 1/8" of free play at the foot pad at the end of the pedal. It doesn't say so, but I'm assuming this free play must be movement of the pedal that *doesn't* move the push-rod. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I'm having problems with my front brakes (disk) not releasing completely upon removing my foot from the pedal. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 31 04:18:02 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 11:18:02 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Radiator Pressure Testing References: <20081028192337.10770@gmx.net> Message-ID: <156284019CC443ECB3AE069AA4D730B3@Three> What is the pressure of your cap? You need to go *at least* to that, and really a bit over. MGBs of that era were 10psi, but subsequently raised to 13 then 15psi with the same heater core so on an MGB at least you should be able to pressure test to at least 15psi safely. I did run my V8 (standard heater core) with 20psi for a while and it did get up to that pressure without doing any damage. 70psi is a different matter, though :o) PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Question: What pressure can I safely apply for radiator testing? I have compressed air @ 6 bar (~70 psi) at my disposal but I'm afraid that that will blow the radiator apart. From sammler at bellsouth.net Thu Oct 30 06:51:56 2008 From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler") Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 08:51:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Master cylinder - size of ports -1600 MKII In-Reply-To: <8B020F2A32694919B72099BE007DC5E3@Three> References: <49092B2A.5040806@bellsouth.net> <8B020F2A32694919B72099BE007DC5E3@Three> Message-ID: <4909BBFC.4030106@bellsouth.net> Paul, Your mention of the brake light switch, even though on the A it's hydraulic and not mechanical, has pointed out to me an easy to reach place where I can release the pressure in the system without having to get under the car. Unscrewing it will allow me to check to see if the calipers will release. I'll do that later this morning - after it gets a bit warmer than the present 36 degrees - brrrr! "Blocked port" aspect. When the piston in the master cylinder is in its correct "at rest position" is the only pathway for fluid to return to the master cylinder via this small port? If so should pushing the caliper piston back into the caliper cause the brake fluid to move into the master cylinder via this pathway? If so, would this then be an indication that the small port was not blocked? Thanks, Pat Thanks, Pat Paul Hunt wrote: > I can't see the size of port being an issue - as long as there *is* a > port and it isn't blocked with debris. ................................... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 31 08:28:13 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 15:28:13 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Master cylinder - size of ports -1600 MKII References: <49092B2A.5040806@bellsouth.net> <8B020F2A32694919B72099BE007DC5E3@Three> <4909BBFC.4030106@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: Ha! For some reason I assumed it was a B, and not only that but a later B with mechanical switch instead of hydraulic. If it's just one caliper then it will be the flex hose, but if on both then either both hoses have failed at the same time, or it must be something common. With any system you should be able to push the caliper (and rear slave) pistons fully back to displace fluid into the master reservoir, but watch it doesn't overflow as the non-silicone fluids will strip paint. With the brake pedal released there should be a pathway from each caliper or cylinder back to the master reservoir, to release any pressure from heat expansion of fluid if nothing else. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Your mention of the brake light switch, even though on the A it's hydraulic and not mechanical, has pointed out to me an easy to reach place where I can release the pressure in the system without having to get under the car....