From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  1 13:02:46 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 12:02:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear axle nut
Message-ID: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Gang,

Some time ago I asked the size of the thin-wall socket
needed to remove the axle nut on the MGB's rear axle. 
I believe that the size is 1-5/8" but I need to verify
that before buying a socket.  Is that size correct?  I
need to remove the hub to replace the oil seal (then
rebuild the brakes).

Second question; anyone know of a source for these
sockets?  I have looked in all the usual places but I
have not found the 1-5/8" size.

All advice is appreciated.

rick
'08 M-B C300
'03 L-R Discovery
'96 BMW 740iL
'79 Ferrari 308GTB
'70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer
'61 M-B 180b Saloon

From lundgren at byu.net  Sun Jun  1 13:47:38 2008
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2008 13:47:38 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear axle nut
In-Reply-To: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4842FCDA.4020204@byu.net>

Rick Lindsay wrote:
> Second question; anyone know of a source for these
> sockets?  I have looked in all the usual places but I
> have not found the 1-5/8" size.
>   

Got mine at Ace Hardware a 5+ years ago.

From mvrose at charter.net  Sun Jun  1 17:05:21 2008
From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 16:05:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear axle nut
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c8c43b$f7f25eb0$aa43ba44@Primary>

I used a 33 mm socket.  I also had to use an impact wrench and hammer on it 
for about 15 minutes before they broke.  I got my wrench and socket at 
Harbor Freight.


Merl Rosenthal
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 12:02 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear axle nut


> Hey Gang,
>
> Some time ago I asked the size of the thin-wall socket
> needed to remove the axle nut on the MGB's rear axle.
> I believe that the size is 1-5/8" but I need to verify
> that before buying a socket.  Is that size correct?  I
> need to remove the hub to replace the oil seal (then
> rebuild the brakes).
>
> Second question; anyone know of a source for these
> sockets?  I have looked in all the usual places but I
> have not found the 1-5/8" size.
>
> All advice is appreciated.
>
> rick
> '08 M-B C300
> '03 L-R Discovery
> '96 BMW 740iL
> '79 Ferrari 308GTB
> '70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer
> '61 M-B 180b Saloon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as mvrose at charter.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From aproudfoot at nf.sympatico.ca  Sun Jun  1 16:58:58 2008
From: aproudfoot at nf.sympatico.ca (aproudfoot at nf.sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 20:28:58 -0230
Subject: [Mgs] no start 77b
References: <517648.72468.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004901c8c43b$133a6dd0$6401a8c0@valued186b645d>

So I pulled my 77B out to have a go at the spring weather and I get no joy 
from the starter at all (battery is fully charged) all lights work as they 
should, fuel pump is pumping away. I am thinking the relay on the passenger 
fender could be the culprit? There are two, one for ignition & one for 
starter? I think? any idea which one is which? Anyone with the same 
experience?
Thanks
Andy Proudfoot 77B
Gander, NL

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sun Jun  1 19:04:59 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 21:04:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] no start 77b
In-Reply-To: <004901c8c43b$133a6dd0$6401a8c0@valued186b645d>
Message-ID: <20080601210459.S45WW.102264.imail@eastrmwml40>

I had a devil of a time solving that very same problem on my 71 B, in my case it was the starter relay just aft of the fuse box, that slivery looking thingy, after replacing it the car started up fine . Mind you that was after I had taken out  and replaced three different starters, I lived and learned to enjoy the "B" some more. 

  
---- aproudfoot at nf.sympatico.ca wrote: 
> So I pulled my 77B out to have a go at the spring weather and I get no joy 
> from the starter at all (battery is fully charged) all lights work as they 
> should, fuel pump is pumping away. I am thinking the relay on the passenger 
> fender could be the culprit? There are two, one for ignition & one for 
> starter? I think? any idea which one is which? Anyone with the same 
> experience?
> Thanks
> Andy Proudfoot 77B
> Gander, NL
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as 1971mgb at cox.net
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From aproudfoot at nf.sympatico.ca  Sun Jun  1 21:09:50 2008
From: aproudfoot at nf.sympatico.ca (aproudfoot at nf.sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 00:39:50 -0230
Subject: [Mgs] started 77b
References: <517648.72468.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<004901c8c43b$133a6dd0$6401a8c0@valued186b645d>
Message-ID: <000a01c8c45e$219f3130$6401a8c0@valued186b645d>

Pulled apart the front relay it was stuck. Still no go. Pulled the boot of 
the starter and found the wire closest the passenger side was disconnected. 
Car turns over, didn't want to start it as it's late and didn't want to have 
to shut it off (or piss off the neighbours) it'll start in the morning.
Thanks (I still lurk now and then)
Andy Proudfoot 77B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun  2 01:51:28 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 08:51:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear axle nut
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>

1 5/16", for the Salisbury axle half-shaft nut.  My standard 1/2" drive
non-impact socket is 1.73" outside diameter, the ID of my hub is 1.863" and
another reports that his hub is 1.867" so a socket of that size should fit any
hub.  3/4" drive or impact sockets may be too big.  OD is only an issue for
wire-wheel hubs, of course.

They can be very tight, one on the roadster needed a 5 ft breaker bar.  If
Rostyle remove the centre cap, in both cases fit the wheel back on the hub
(without spinner in the case of wires) and lower the tyre onto the ground.
You should then only need a breaker bar of the required length to shift it if
you don't have an impact gun.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  I believe that the size is 1-5/8" but I need to verify
  that before buying a socket.  Is that size correct?

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Jun  3 10:42:00 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 12:42:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Listers,

Well, after two years, I'm finally ready to reinstall the engine and 
transmission, to which I've added overdrive, into my '72 MGB. I have all the 
shop manuals, hardcopy and CD, but wonder what the group experience might be 
to ease installation. The engine is mated to the gearbox, by the way.

1. Should the motor mounts be affixed to either the engine or the car before 
installing; or, neither, that is, wait until the engine is in position 
before placing the mounts.

2. What's the easiest way to install the transmission mounts? To the 
transmission? To the crossmember? Before or after everything's in position?

Aside: None of my books/manuals showed the positions of the reverse and 
overdrive switches on the gearbox top cover. Nor did any indicate the 
function of the 3rd switch to the right and rear on the top cover. Since 
that one's "on" in any gear, I figure it must me some kind of "start" 
interlock used on later cars. I don't really know the source of this 
overdrive transmission. The large switch, forward right hand side, is for 
the back up lights. The switch on the left is the overdrive interlock.

Thanks in advance for any and all guidance.

Ed Woods 

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Jun  3 10:55:19 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 12:55:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
Message-ID: <20080603.125520.856.17.MGBOB@juno.com>

Ed,
  Congratulations.  It's a good time to get driving again.
  1) I install the mounts loosely to the car before swinging the engine
in.  Could do it either way, I suppose, but the less time fingers are in
pinch places the better. 
  2) What worked best for me last time was to get the engine hanging with
gearbox dangling, then mount the Xmember to gearbox with the nuts pulled
up most of the way, a bit tighter than loose.  Access under the car is
awkward at best unless you have drilled holes in the Xmember.  Then I
lowered the engine and pushed up on the Xmember to get its four bolts
into place.  
  3)  The OD switch is left side, just out of finger-reach from the shift
lever hole.  I don't know the purpose of the third switch you
described--it may be the TCSA (transmission-controlled spark advance)
device.  Do use your meter and see that these switches are working as
they should before gearbox is in place as they are difficult to access
once the Xmember is bolted up.  
Bob
 
On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 12:42:00 -0400 "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
writes:
> Listers,
> 
> Well, after two years, I'm finally ready to reinstall the engine and  
> transmission, to which I've added overdrive, into my '72 MGB. I have 
> all the shop manuals, hardcopy and CD, but wonder what the group
experience 
> might be to ease installation. The engine is mated to the gearbox, by
the 
> way.
> 
> 1. Should the motor mounts be affixed to either the engine or the 
> car before  installing; or, neither, that is, wait until the engine is
in 
> position  before placing the mounts.
> 
> 2. What's the easiest way to install the transmission mounts? To the  
> transmission? To the crossmember? Before or after everything's in 
> position?
> 
> Aside: None of my books/manuals showed the positions of the reverse 
> and  overdrive switches on the gearbox top cover. Nor did any indicate 
> the  function of the 3rd switch to the right and rear on the top cover.

> Since  that one's "on" in any gear, I figure it must me some kind of 
> "start"  interlock used on later cars. I don't really know the source
of this  
> overdrive transmission. The large switch, forward right hand side, 
> is for  the back up lights. The switch on the left is the overdrive 
> interlock.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any and all guidance.
> 
> Ed Woods 
____________________________________________________________
Click for free info on online degrees and make up to $150K/ year.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nlXFr4YZ9F5VXIc6vsM6jZtjagI8xylyceI8KaWztZbS61H/

From thgun at comporium.net  Tue Jun  3 11:16:46 2008
From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net)
Date: Tue,  3 Jun 2008 13:16:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
Message-ID: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>

I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos ground.
My battery has been loosing voltage. Do I need to install a volt meter to keep tabs on this? If so what would be the best thing to do. I still need to see if something in the car is pulling the voltage down. Where can I find a vintage volt meter?
Thanks, Tom Gunderson
57 MGA 

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Jun  3 11:24:51 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 13:24:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
Message-ID: <20080603.132451.856.21.MGBOB@juno.com>

Tom,
  First thing to check is that the electricity stops flowing when the
switch is turned off.   I would disconnect a battery cable, then use a
voltmeter between cable and battery terminal to see if there is any
current.  Should be 00 unless you have installed something like a clock
that is always on.  Any voltmeter/multimeter would do for a quick check
of this, then you can go circuit by circuit to chase down any problem. 
Bob

On Tue,  3 Jun 2008 13:16:46 -0400 (EDT) <thgun at comporium.net> writes:
> I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos ground.
> My battery has been loosing voltage. Do I need to install a volt 
> meter to keep tabs on this? If so what would be the best thing to 
> do. I still need to see if something in the car is pulling the 
> voltage down. Where can I find a vintage volt meter?
> Thanks, Tom Gunderson
> 57 MGA 
____________________________________________________________
Compete with the big boys.  Click here to find products to benefit your business.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m7tD1xLhUmUuEoSDu3q1gYO7UBGyTgHZ9OSMraVnnX8icY1/

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  3 11:31:36 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 10:31:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
In-Reply-To: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <275836.55569.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tom, I have the same problem with my exotic car.  I
drive it so seldom that the radio/clock memory will
drain the battery.  I solved the problem by installing
a battery tender.  Haven't had a problem since.

rick

--- thgun at comporium.net wrote:

> I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos
> ground.
> My battery has been loosing voltage. Do I need to
> install a volt meter to keep tabs on this? If so
> what would be the best thing to do. I still need to
> see if something in the car is pulling the voltage
> down. Where can I find a vintage volt meter?
> Thanks, Tom Gunderson
> 57 MGA 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun  3 12:47:03 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 12:47:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
References: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <009b01c8c5aa$37816c00$6601a8c0@shop>

How OLD is the batt, Tom??

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jun  3 11:54:08 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 10:54:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
In-Reply-To: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0DF6140F@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Tom:

How often are you driving the car? And as Ed asked, how old is the
battery.

An older battery will have some internal shorting due to sulphate
buildup and it will discharge over a month or two. In that case, keeping
the car on a trickle charger is the best way to extend battery life as
long as possible.

There really should not be a need to install a voltmeter in the car, as
you are most likely facing a common problem caused by not running the
car enough. Maybe it's time to get in and drive more often. : )

Sorry, that's a prod at myself too, as the battery in my MGB is now
going down if it is not driven in a month too.

I have driven it to work the last two days as part of British Car Week
though.



Kelvin
70 MGB




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of thgun at comporium.net
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 10:17 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
>
> I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos ground.
> My battery has been loosing voltage. Do I need to install a
> volt meter to keep tabs on this? If so what would be the best
> thing to do. I still need to see if something in the car is
> pulling the voltage down. Where can I find a vintage volt meter?
> Thanks, Tom Gunderson
> 57 MGA

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jun  3 12:07:04 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 11:07:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
In-Reply-To: <001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0DF6141B@kb1.mossmotors.com>

1.  Leave the mounts loosely attached to the engine plate. You may have
to twist them a bit to get all the body side bolts inserted. Once the
motor is in position, the upper nuts are easy to tighten.

2.  I've found it helpful to install the mounts while the gearbox is in
position, but still hanging down a bit. The mounts are loosely attached
to the crossmember and the assembly can then be twisted and used as a
lever to get the mounts to line up on the box. It's a PITA, so just be
patient.

WARNING!!!!   Test fit the mounts to the crossmember and gearbox before
installing the engine and transmission. Also run a coarse thread tap
carefully into the gearbox mounting threads to clean them out. BTDT.
Once I tried to install an OD using a replacement crossmember that
turned out to be bent!!  It took 6 hours to figure that one out. Then I
spent about an hour trying to get a bolt threaded into a damaged hole.
It's not fun trying to install a helicoil under the car.


The third switch does sound like the seat belt interlock switch used in
(I think 1974).



Kelvin


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Ed Woods
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 9:42 AM
> To: MGS
> Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, after two years, I'm finally ready to reinstall the
> engine and transmission, to which I've added overdrive, into
> my '72 MGB. I have all the shop manuals, hardcopy and CD, but
> wonder what the group experience might be to ease
> installation. The engine is mated to the gearbox, by the way.
>
> 1. Should the motor mounts be affixed to either the engine or
> the car before installing; or, neither, that is, wait until
> the engine is in position before placing the mounts.
>
> 2. What's the easiest way to install the transmission mounts?
> To the transmission? To the crossmember? Before or after
> everything's in position?
>
> Aside: None of my books/manuals showed the positions of the
> reverse and overdrive switches on the gearbox top cover. Nor
> did any indicate the function of the 3rd switch to the right
> and rear on the top cover. Since that one's "on" in any gear,
> I figure it must me some kind of "start"
> interlock used on later cars. I don't really know the source
> of this overdrive transmission. The large switch, forward
> right hand side, is for the back up lights. The switch on the
> left is the overdrive interlock.
>
> Thanks in advance for any and all guidance.
>
> Ed Woods

From thgun at comporium.net  Tue Jun  3 12:19:23 2008
From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net)
Date: Tue,  3 Jun 2008 14:19:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT Meter
Message-ID: <20080603141923.BRE30905@ms1.comporium.net>

The battery was installed in early March 08. I do need to drive it more. I was going to drive it today but the battery being low at 6 am. Well, I let it stay in the garage.
57 mga , Tom Gunderson

Check out my car on you tube,
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Budr33LdD_Y

From guinness at stclegal.com  Tue Jun  3 13:03:14 2008
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 14:03:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Volt Meter
Message-ID: <48459572.5000805@stclegal.com>

-----Original Message-----
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
>
> I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos ground.
> My battery has been loosing voltage. Do I need to install a
> volt meter to keep tabs on this? If so what would be the best
> thing to do. I still need to see if something in the car is
> pulling the voltage down. Where can I find a vintage volt meter?
> Thanks, Tom Gunderson
> 57 MGA

Reply

I had this same problem in my 1960 MGA 1600.  I finally replaced the Control Box/Regulator [Moss Item 142-000 ($49.95)]. I have been driving happily ever since.  Also, check out John Twist's videos on:

The Control Box at: www.youtube.com/watch?v=KL5ioH8idFI
The generator at: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqCYcW0bAYA
Polarizing the generator at:  www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH_yIeKsBSM

			 

-- 
Robert Guinness

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue Jun  3 20:28:48 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 10:28:48 +0800
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0DF6140F@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0DF6140F@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0806031928q6d29ac5do896b29a4d53b45c3@mail.gmail.com>

Tom,
I had the same problem on our 79B; probably due to the radio. I installed a
battery cut off switch behind the passenger seat and now just switch it off
when I park for very long. Problem solved.
This also gives added security against theft and trying to get to the
battery in case of an  electrical fire (BTDT).
Monte


On 6/4/08, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
> Tom:
>
> How often are you driving the car? And as Ed asked, how old is the
> battery.
>
> An older battery will have some internal shorting due to sulphate
> buildup and it will discharge over a month or two. In that case, keeping
> the car on a trickle charger is the best way to extend battery life as
> long as possible.
>
> There really should not be a need to install a voltmeter in the car, as
> you are most likely facing a common problem caused by not running the
> car enough. Maybe it's time to get in and drive more often. : )
>
> Sorry, that's a prod at myself too, as the battery in my MGB is now
> going down if it is not driven in a month too.
>
> I have driven it to work the last two days as part of British Car Week
> though.
>
>
>
> Kelvin
> 70 MGB
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk <mgs-bounces%2Bdoddk>=mossmotors.com@
> autox.team.net] On
> > Behalf Of thgun at comporium.net
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 10:17 AM
> > To: mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER
> >
> > I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos ground.
> > My battery has been loosing voltage. Do I need to install a
> > volt meter to keep tabs on this? If so what would be the best
> > thing to do. I still need to see if something in the car is
> > pulling the voltage down. Where can I find a vintage volt meter?
> > Thanks, Tom Gunderson
> > 57 MGA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Jun  3 22:24:48 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 00:24:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
References: <20080603.125520.856.17.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<003901c8c5ed$b87e8700$aa43ba44@Primary>
Message-ID: <005901c8c5fa$ecc6b340$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

All,

Good advice. My rig allows the car to me moved and the engine hoist to be 
stationary except for vertical lift of course. If I can get the car to move 
by raising the rear on a trolley jack,  I'll give it a try.

Ed 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun  4 01:47:42 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 08:47:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com><008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <004b01c8c617$50c4ee90$0200a8c0@Three>

The third switch is part of the seat belt warning system as you surmise, there
was a relatively simple warning system used for the start of the 73 model year
using it, then a more complex interlock system part-way through 73 and into 75
that kept it, and finally a very simple warning system without that switch
until the end of production.  A 3rd switch appeared again in about July 76
until Feb 77 which was part of the TCSA system, but that operated in 2nd and
4th, and when wired in series with the 3/4 OD switch allowed the OD to operate
in 3rd and 4th and the TCSA in 4th only.  When the 3rd switch was removed
again in Feb 77 the function of the OD switch was changed to operate in 4th
gear only and controlled both the OD and TCSA circuits.  North American spec
only.  UK cars only got an even simpler warning system from 77 to the end of
production, no TCSA, and never a 3rd switch.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Aside: None of my books/manuals showed the positions of the reverse and
  overdrive switches on the gearbox top cover. Nor did any indicate the
  function of the 3rd switch to the right and rear on the top cover...

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun  4 02:09:10 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 09:09:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER Pt1
References: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <00aa01c8c61b$865da5c0$0200a8c0@Three>

A voltmeter will really only give you information about charging, and unless
it is a high-sensitivity digital unit it probably won't show the difference
between enough charge to start and not enough charge to start until you turn
the key, by which time you will know anyway.

Removing the battery ground strap and connecting a voltmeter (on its 12v
scale) in its place it a good way of detecting drains, however I have only
used an analogue meter for this, a digital meter may not give the same
indications.  On a dynamo equipped car you should see zero volts registered.
If you see any volts registered there is a drain.  Anything around 5 or 6v or
so can be ignored as it represents micro-amps (this is what a typical
alternator registers from the normal reverse leakage of its diodes), a full
12v is a significant drain.  Alarm systems in particular, some sound systems
if they have a 'keep alive' feed to keep the tuning, and some clocks will
exhibit a small drain.  In my experience only alarm systems will drain enough
to make a difference (unless not used for many months), it is the repeated
partial draining when not used daily and recharging that causes batteries to
fail prematurely, I was having to replace the V8 with alarm every couple of
years or so whereas in the roadster without any extras I'm still on my 2nd set
of replacement batteries after 18 years.  I solved the problem on the V8 by
fitting a battery cut-off switch (without a bypass fuse), since then the
current (ho ho) battery is still going strong after several years.

(to be continued ...)
  ----- Original Message -----
  I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos ground.
  My battery has been loosing voltage.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun  4 02:09:41 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 09:09:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER Pt2
References: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <00ab01c8c61b$86815a60$0200a8c0@Three>

Without those extras you will have to start disconnecting brown wires at
various places one by one until the drain vanishes, then follow what that
circuit feeds.  Make sure any courtesy lights including boot light (if you
have one) are being switched off when the car is parked.

Don't use a conventional trickle charger for long periods, it will evaporate
the electrolyte.  If you must use a charger for long-term use make it one of
the more recent conditioning chargers, these have electronics to sense battery
voltage and switch the charge on and off to suit.  But as I say the roadster
without extras and the V8 with a cut-off switch can stand for a month or more
without problems.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I have a 1957 MGA 1500 with generator and pos ground.
  My battery has been loosing voltage.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Jun  4 08:09:01 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 10:09:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com><008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<004b01c8c617$50c4ee90$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <004301c8c64c$8ac639c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Paul,

That 3rd switch is "on" when the transmission is engaged in any gear. I can
see how that might be useful as an "engine start" interlock, but what's the
logic behind using it as part of a seatbelt warning system?

Ed

----- Original Message -----
  From: Paul Hunt
  To: Ed Woods ; MGS
  Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 3:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine installation advice


  The third switch is part of the seat belt warning system as you surmise,
there was a relatively simple warning system used for the start of the 73
model year using it, then a more complex interlock system part-way through 73
and into 75 that kept it, and finally a very simple warning system without
that switch until the end of production.  A 3rd switch appeared again in about
July 76 until Feb 77 which was part of the TCSA system, but that operated in
2nd and 4th, and when wired in series with the 3/4 OD switch allowed the OD to
operate in 3rd and 4th and the TCSA in 4th only.  When the 3rd switch was
removed again in Feb 77 the function of the OD switch was changed to operate
in 4th gear only and controlled both the OD and TCSA circuits.  North American
spec only.  UK cars only got an even simpler warning system from 77 to the end
of production, no TCSA, and never a 3rd switch.

  PaulH.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun  4 08:38:55 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 15:38:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] VOLT METER Pt1
References: <20080603131646.BRE05569@ms1.comporium.net>
	<00aa01c8c61b$865da5c0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<a3b984e10806040635o4ea0dc14oe471123e77158a86@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <016301c8c651$207e0700$0200a8c0@Three>

A complete circuit *is* a drain, and that is why I specifically mentioned
alarms, audio and clock as things that could give it.  You need to disconnect
those to see if anything *else* is giving a drain, which it shouldn't,
although where a clock moves in steps you can probably leave that as it only
take a very small pulse which still allows you to see anything else.  Using an
ammeter can be dangerous, it represents a near dead short, and if you have a
large drain will generate a spark when you connect and disconnect it.  If
working near the batteries it could ignite battery gasses.  If the meter isn't
protected it could also be damaged itself.  Neither of these can happen using
the meter on its 12v scale.  Using a test-lamp is a simple go/no go test,
personally if I'm looking for a drain I want to find any and all of them, not
just big ones.  But each to their own, if people know more than one way to
skin a cat, they can do which suits them best, without insulting others.

PaulH.
40 years working on auto electrics, 50+ years on low voltage electrics, not
that that means anything.

----- Original Message -----
  Speaking as a guy that has taught professional technicians for over 15
years, and worked in the industry for over 40 years, using a voltmeter to find
a draw is probably the worst tool you can use.  Using a hammer might be a
little worst but not by much.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun  4 08:54:17 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 15:54:17 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com><008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<004b01c8c617$50c4ee90$0200a8c0@Three>
	<004301c8c64c$8ac639c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <017501c8c653$3a146720$0200a8c0@Three>

As far as I know on the original system it sounded a buzzer if the engine was
in gear but the drivers belt not fastened, or the passenger seat occupied but
belt not fastened.  Presumably working on the theory that the occupants would
rather fasten their seat-belts than smash the buzzer!  The same buzzer sounded
if the key was in the ignition with the drivers door open.  Obviously smashing
the buzzer *was* a common occurrence, so two years later in the more complex
system all the switches went to various inputs on a box of electronic
trickery, and that disabled the starter if the belts weren't fastened.  Don't
forget both these systems were at the behest of the American Government who
specified the conditions, but not how to achieve it, and not dreamt up by MG.
I understand American manufacturers objected to the requirements (on the basis
of technical complexity according to one account I have read) which was why it
only lasted for a year or so.  After that the system was even less intrusive
than the original, only sounding the buzzer for a period of time if the belts
weren't fastened and not continuously.  The UK only ever got a warning light
on the timer, and not the buzzer.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  That 3rd switch is "on" when the transmission is engaged in any gear. I can
see how that might be useful as an "engine start" interlock, but what's the
logic behind using it as part of a seatbelt warning system?

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Jun  4 10:27:12 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 09:27:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
In-Reply-To: <017501c8c653$3a146720$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<004b01c8c617$50c4ee90$0200a8c0@Three>
	<004301c8c64c$8ac639c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<017501c8c653$3a146720$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <40b437200806040927t6c5d8242yfab54cb0a0fd7015@mail.gmail.com>

Paul,

When I had a US-spec '74 B, the system would sometimes prevent the car
from starting. I am fairly sure that the system acted as an interlock
with the starter circuit. The simplest way to disable it was to
disconnect the sensors under the seats (IIRC there was one under BOTH
seats). However, in my car, the occasional bad connection on the
system would require me to put my hand behind the dash and wiggle the
connections until the car would start.

I think the buzzers came later, when the interlock was removed.

Regards,
Simon


On Wed, Jun 4, 2008 at 7:54 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> As far as I know on the original system it sounded a buzzer if the engine was
> in gear but the drivers belt not fastened, or the passenger seat occupied but
> belt not fastened.  Presumably working on the theory that the occupants would
> rather fasten their seat-belts than smash the buzzer!  The same buzzer sounded
> if the key was in the ignition with the drivers door open.  Obviously smashing
> the buzzer *was* a common occurrence, so two years later in the more complex
> system all the switches went to various inputs on a box of electronic
> trickery, and that disabled the starter if the belts weren't fastened.  Don't
> forget both these systems were at the behest of the American Government who
> specified the conditions, but not how to achieve it, and not dreamt up by MG.
> I understand American manufacturers objected to the requirements (on the basis
> of technical complexity according to one account I have read) which was why it
> only lasted for a year or so.  After that the system was even less intrusive
> than the original, only sounding the buzzer for a period of time if the belts
> weren't fastened and not continuously.  The UK only ever got a warning light
> on the timer, and not the buzzer.
>
> PaulH.
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  That 3rd switch is "on" when the transmission is engaged in any gear. I can
> see how that might be useful as an "engine start" interlock, but what's the
> logic behind using it as part of a seatbelt warning system?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  4 12:07:49 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:07:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
Message-ID: <347312.80842.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Anyone replace their cat con with a piece of pipe on their '75 and newer B? I want to dump mine - don't need it here with historic registration - and
am wondering what others have done. I guess I could simply hollow it out but I'm not sure if there is anything hazardous inside that I need be careful
with..... I recall seeing 'test pipes' on eBay from time to time. I guess I could also go to a local muffler shop with the cat and they could make up
something...

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jun  4 12:39:59 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 14:39:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
Message-ID: <20080604.143959.2744.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

Dan,
  There is a fellow in our club who knew his '79 would pass the sniffer
test but would not pass the visual inspection without a cat in the
system. 
  He slipped a tomato juice can over a section of pipe, fitted flanges,
bolted his device into the system before the annual emission test, and
removed it for safekeeping and loan to friends.  The car has a header, so
this device is fitted into the system under the driver seat, in a
straight run of tailpipe.  The car is now exempt from testing because of
its age.
Bob

On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:07:49 -0700 (PDT) Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
writes:
> Anyone replace their cat con with a piece of pipe on their '75 and 
> newer B? I want to dump mine - don't need it here with historic 
> registration - and
> am wondering what others have done. I guess I could simply hollow it 
> out but I'm not sure if there is anything hazardous inside that I 
> need be careful
> with..... I recall seeing 'test pipes' on eBay from time to time. I 
> guess I could also go to a local muffler shop with the cat and they 
> could make up
> something...
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
____________________________________________________________
Get educated.  Click here for Adult Education programs.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nNbXvjt2YdAKGJS0SEvkM3aQnPFDxWboeL08O9QnSLK92WB/

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun  4 12:46:21 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2008 11:46:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
In-Reply-To: <347312.80842.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C46C310D.183CA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Hey, platinum is valuable -- recycle that puppy.

Sneaking into new car lots with sawzalls and stealing new cats just to sell
for scrap value is the latest criminal innovation...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/4/08 11:07 AM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> Anyone replace their cat con with a piece of pipe on their '75 and newer B? I
> want to dump mine - don't need it here with historic registration - and
> am wondering what others have done. I guess I could simply hollow it out but
> I'm not sure if there is anything hazardous inside that I need be careful
> with..... I recall seeing 'test pipes' on eBay from time to time. I guess I
> could also go to a local muffler shop with the cat and they could make up
> something...
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> _______________________________________________

From jkk at adams.net  Wed Jun  4 17:39:48 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 18:39:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
References: <C46C310D.183CA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <002a01c8c69c$47515710$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <

> Hey, platinum is valuable -- recycle that puppy.
>
> Sneaking into new car lots with sawzalls and stealing new cats just to 
> sell
> for scrap value is the latest criminal innovation...
>
>
Your cats are not safe anywhere, we've heard of them turning up missing 
from mall parking lots and even home driveways and garages.

Jim 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun  5 02:15:16 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:15:16 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<004b01c8c617$50c4ee90$0200a8c0@Three>
	<004301c8c64c$8ac639c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<017501c8c653$3a146720$0200a8c0@Three>
	<40b437200806040927t6c5d8242yfab54cb0a0fd7015@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010001c8c6e4$54670560$0200a8c0@Three>

Hi Simon - I'm going by the diagrams as the UK never had any of the same
systems as North America.  The interlock system that prevented cranking under
various circumstances was indeed for the 74 and part 75 years.  There is a
special section in the Leyland Workshop Manual showing the details of the
system, it did include a buzzer, but in exactly what circumstances it sounded
the buzzer and opened the interlock I don't know.  I would expect the seat
belt warning to include the buzzer, but whether it sounded on turning on the
ignition, or just turning to crank, I don't know.  There were earlier (part 72
and 73) and later (part 75 on) systems that didn't include the interlock, but
both did include a buzzer.  The earlier system purely uses switches and it's
possible to work out that the seat belt warning did include a buzzer, as did
the 'key in' warning.  The later system uses a simplified (from the 74/75) box
of electronics containing the buzzer so again it isn't possible to determine
from just the diagram under what circumstances the buzzer sounded.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  When I had a US-spec '74 B, the system would sometimes prevent the car
  from starting. I am fairly sure that the system acted as an interlock
  with the starter circuit....
  I think the buzzers came later, when the interlock was removed.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun  5 09:00:04 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 10:00:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
References: <C46C310D.183CA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<002a01c8c69c$47515710$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <005e01c8c71d$a6678400$8115a8c0@garage.local>

since we're so off topic . . .

some years ago i had a car that needed a new cat.  it had a hole in it!  so 
i went to a junkyard, and asked him if he had one.  he said that he was not 
allowed to sell catalytic converters.

then he called one of his guys over and told him to get me a 'down pipe.' 
puzzled, i followed him out into the yard.  he proceeded to remove a piece 
of exhaust pipe from a car that had a cat still attached.  they brought it 
up front and he rang me up a receipt which stated "down pipe."


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Kleemeyer" <jkk at adams.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Max Heim" <
>
>> Hey, platinum is valuable -- recycle that puppy.
>>
>> Sneaking into new car lots with sawzalls and stealing new cats just to
>> sell
>> for scrap value is the latest criminal innovation...
>>
>>
> Your cats are not safe anywhere, we've heard of them turning up missing
> from mall parking lots and even home driveways and garages.
>
> Jim

From derek at vandivere.net  Thu Jun  5 09:40:35 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 17:40:35 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Mgs] How long to...
Message-ID: <33741.193.173.12.30.1212680435.squirrel@vandivere.net>

So, I've got a few hours this evening to work on the (78) B. Which goes
quicker - replacing the radio antenna or the speedo cable?

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jun  5 09:44:30 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 10:44:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] How long to...
In-Reply-To: <33741.193.173.12.30.1212680435.squirrel@vandivere.net>
References: <33741.193.173.12.30.1212680435.squirrel@vandivere.net>
Message-ID: <F59D164B-B012-47FB-9AC3-E0B310305CAE@gmail.com>

Probably the antenna, as long as you don't pull the lead out.
Cut off the cable from the antenna, and tape it end to end well on
the new lead and pull it through.


On Jun 5, 2008, at 10:40 AM, derek at vandivere.net wrote:

> So, I've got a few hours this evening to work on the (78) B. Which  
> goes
> quicker - replacing the radio antenna or the speedo cable?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Thu Jun  5 09:45:49 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 16:45:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] How long to...
In-Reply-To: <33741.193.173.12.30.1212680435.squirrel@vandivere.net>
References: <33741.193.173.12.30.1212680435.squirrel@vandivere.net>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806050845r1878ccn5530ab2f817f5a51@mail.gmail.com>

What's more important to you - knowing how fast you're going or being able
to listen to your tunes?

For me I'd say replacing the antenna is quicker, but on my BGT it's on the
rear wing and very accessible.
Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun  5 09:51:57 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 16:51:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] How long to...
References: <33741.193.173.12.30.1212680435.squirrel@vandivere.net>
Message-ID: <032401c8c725$2edc8360$0200a8c0@Three>

If you have to get into the wing cavity i.e. for a motorised aerial than I'd
say the speedo cable is quicker.  But then again with some American dashboards
even that isn't so easy, but with a 78 it shouldn't be too bad.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  So, I've got a few hours this evening to work on the (78) B. Which goes
  quicker - replacing the radio antenna or the speedo cable?

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Jun  5 10:03:21 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 12:03:21 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Swaps
Message-ID: <bcf.29418bc2.35796849@aol.com>

Yes, I know this isn't MG related, but I though that some might be  
interested in bits and pieces that could be used on MG swaps. 

_http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm_ 
(http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm)   

This is a friend of mine that split a TR3 body in half and widened it to  
mount on a TR6 chassis, and then installed a Nissan 240SX driveline.  

Randy works at a local college and has access to specialised machining,  and 
is a very handy guy when it comes to solving the many problems this sort of  
project always present. In fact he is the guy that did the 'MG' engraving on 
the  upper plenum of the 3.4 GM engine I put in my Jamaican. 

Take a quick  peek, you might find it interesting.
 
Bill

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  5 10:50:08 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:50:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] How long to...
Message-ID: <15218.55798.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The easiest thing to do is drive it..... ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Replacement In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "derek at vandivere.net" <derek at vandivere.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2008 11:40:35 AM
Subject: [Mgs] How long to...

So, I've got a few hours this evening to work on the (78) B. Which goes
quicker - replacing the radio antenna or the speedo cable?
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  5 12:17:22 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 11:17:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Swaps
Message-ID: <687569.41650.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It's very interesting, and a nice piece of work. Just not sure why he calls it the 'ultimate TR3' when it uses a TR6 chassis and Nissan drivetrain! But then
again, I'm not a huge fan of V6 MGB's either...

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "WSpohn4 at aol.com" <WSpohn4 at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2008 12:03:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine Swaps

Yes, I know this isn't MG related, but I though that some might be  
interested in bits and pieces that could be used on MG swaps. 

_http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm_ 
(http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm)  

This is a friend of mine that split a TR3 body in half and widened it to  
mount on a TR6 chassis, and then installed a Nissan 240SX driveline.  

Randy works at a local college and has access to specialised machining,  and 
is a very handy guy when it comes to solving the many problems this sort of  
project always present. In fact he is the guy that did the 'MG' engraving on 
the  upper plenum of the 3.4 GM engine I put in my Jamaican. 

Take a quick  peek, you might find it interesting.

Bill
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  5 12:17:22 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 11:17:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Swaps
Message-ID: <687569.41650.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It's very interesting, and a nice piece of work. Just not sure why he calls it the 'ultimate TR3' when it uses a TR6 chassis and Nissan drivetrain! But then
again, I'm not a huge fan of V6 MGB's either...

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "WSpohn4 at aol.com" <WSpohn4 at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2008 12:03:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine Swaps

Yes, I know this isn't MG related, but I though that some might be  
interested in bits and pieces that could be used on MG swaps. 

_http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm_ 
(http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm)  

This is a friend of mine that split a TR3 body in half and widened it to  
mount on a TR6 chassis, and then installed a Nissan 240SX driveline.  

Randy works at a local college and has access to specialised machining,  and 
is a very handy guy when it comes to solving the many problems this sort of  
project always present. In fact he is the guy that did the 'MG' engraving on 
the  upper plenum of the 3.4 GM engine I put in my Jamaican. 

Take a quick  peek, you might find it interesting.

Bill
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Jun  5 12:32:05 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 14:32:05 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Swaps
Message-ID: <cb7.2f6709ee.35798b25@aol.com>

I suppose he means that it is a Triumph as it might be if all the weak  spots 
of the original design had been properly sorted out - decent modern  engine, 
suspension optimised, weak half shafts replaced, modern brakes  etc.
 
I agree that we should enjoy these cars for what they are and that it is a  
bit questionable to try and make them what they were not, but I guess the same  
criticism could be leveled at my Jamaican or my race cars.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 6/5/2008 11:22:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
d_dibiase at yahoo.com writes:

It's  very interesting, and a nice piece of work. Just not sure why he calls 
it the  'ultimate TR3' when it uses a TR6 chassis and Nissan drivetrain! But  
then
again, I'm not a huge fan of V6 MGB's  either...

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Jun  5 12:42:26 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 11:42:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
In-Reply-To: <010001c8c6e4$54670560$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<004b01c8c617$50c4ee90$0200a8c0@Three>
	<004301c8c64c$8ac639c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<017501c8c653$3a146720$0200a8c0@Three>
	<40b437200806040927t6c5d8242yfab54cb0a0fd7015@mail.gmail.com>
	<010001c8c6e4$54670560$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <40b437200806051142k763fad99od7a1a2b163b69636@mail.gmail.com>

Paul,

It's always possible that the buzzer was faulty or had been removed by
a PO of my car. Mine was a '74 -- chrome bumpers with the large
overriders. I sold it to a german guy in the UK and when he came to
collect it, it did not start. Reflecting on the problem I suspect that
the reason it did not start for him may have been the seat belt
interlock. I was not there are the time -- my car was stored in my
parent's garage and I was in a different country.

As I mentioned, for some strange reason, there was actually a sensor
under the driver's seat (I think -- I sold the car over a decade ago).
I can't imagine why such a sensor would be required -- one would think
that the system would assume that someone was sat in the driver's
seat.

Regards,
Simon


On Thu, Jun 5, 2008 at 1:15 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Hi Simon - I'm going by the diagrams as the UK never had any of the same
> systems as North America.  The interlock system that prevented cranking
> under various circumstances was indeed for the 74 and part 75 years.  There
> is a special section in the Leyland Workshop Manual showing the details of
> the system, it did include a buzzer, but in exactly what circumstances it
> sounded the buzzer and opened the interlock I don't know.  I would expect
> the seat belt warning to include the buzzer, but whether it sounded on
> turning on the ignition, or just turning to crank, I don't know.  There were
> earlier (part 72 and 73) and later (part 75 on) systems that didn't include
> the interlock, but both did include a buzzer.  The earlier system purely
> uses switches and it's possible to work out that the seat belt warning did
> include a buzzer, as did the 'key in' warning.  The later system uses a
> simplified (from the 74/75) box of electronics containing the buzzer so
> again it isn't possible to determine from just the diagram under what
> circumstances the buzzer sounded.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> When I had a US-spec '74 B, the system would sometimes prevent the car
> from starting. I am fairly sure that the system acted as an interlock
> with the starter circuit....
> I think the buzzers came later, when the interlock was removed.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  5 13:25:04 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 12:25:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Swaps
Message-ID: <1534.89343.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

But not by me, Bill....! ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "WSpohn4 at aol.com" <WSpohn4 at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2008 2:32:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine Swaps

I suppose he means that it is a Triumph as it might be if all the weak  spots 
of the original design had been properly sorted out - decent modern  engine, 
suspension optimised, weak half shafts replaced, modern brakes  etc.

I agree that we should enjoy these cars for what they are and that it is a  
bit questionable to try and make them what they were not, but I guess the same  
criticism could be leveled at my Jamaican or my race cars.

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Jun  5 13:44:24 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 15:44:24 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
Message-ID: <d4e.2afedddc.35799c18@aol.com>

El Paso cops  just busted a couple of guys taking them from cars in a movie 
theater parking  lot.  They found a couple of hundred in their apartment.
 
RBH
 
In a message  dated 6/4/2008 5:40:49 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, 
jkk at adams.net writes:
 
 
Sneaking  into new car lots with sawzalls and stealing new cats just to 
>  sell
> for scrap value is the latest criminal  innovation...
>
>
Your cats are not safe anywhere, we've heard  of them turning up missing 
from mall parking lots and even home driveways  and garages.

Jim  
_______________________________________________





**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jun  6 02:02:45 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 09:02:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Engine installation advice
References: <539940.76124.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<008e01c8c485$ae4aeee0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c8c598$beb54230$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<004b01c8c617$50c4ee90$0200a8c0@Three>
	<004301c8c64c$8ac639c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<017501c8c653$3a146720$0200a8c0@Three>
	<40b437200806040927t6c5d8242yfab54cb0a0fd7015@mail.gmail.com>
	<010001c8c6e4$54670560$0200a8c0@Three>
	<40b437200806051142k763fad99od7a1a2b163b69636@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007b01c8c7ac$d8d6fe90$0200a8c0@Three>

The first and last systems without the interlock only had a passenger seat
switch.  Because the intermediate system had the interlock that prevented
starting under certain conditions it also included a drivers seat switch so
the engine could be started for service and maintenance purposes, without
having to fasten the drivers seat-belt first (although that would hardly have
been arduous).

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  As I mentioned, for some strange reason, there was actually a sensor
  under the driver's seat (I think -- I sold the car over a decade ago).
  I can't imagine why such a sensor would be required -- one would think
  that the system would assume that someone was sat in the driver's
  seat.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jun  6 07:12:12 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 06:12:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
Message-ID: <645372.59623.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Marc, keeping the original set-up with the Z-S at this point. Never really had an issues with it, although when I changed the head gasket
a few years ago, I did have a leak from the bottom of the carb that dripped onto the cat! Fortunately, I caught it before I did much
driving, and it just needed a new o-ring on the bottom of the float chamber.

This B is my 'beater' that I drive while I spend most of my money on the '65 restoration! 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Marc <smarc at smarc.net>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 4, 2008 5:40:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter

Are you trying to keep the ZS carb set up or original appearance? 
Otherwise why not convert to old style exhaust manifold? I took the cat 
off my LE and switched to old style because it made me really nervous 
being right there... Lot of car-B-Que stories....

Marc



Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Anyone replace their cat con with a piece of pipe on their '75 and newer B? I want to dump mine - don't need it here with historic registration - and
> am wondering what others have done. I guess I could simply hollow it out but I'm not sure if there is anything hazardous inside that I need be careful
> with..... I recall seeing 'test pipes' on eBay from time to time. I guess I could also go to a local muffler shop with the cat and they could make up
> something...
>
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 

From RampantNM at aol.com  Fri Jun  6 14:02:26 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 16:02:26 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Jaguar Question
Message-ID: <cea.3523ae19.357af1d2@aol.com>

I know it's off topic and I don't even own an ascot, but our local Jag  
dealer has been advertising deals that look attractive for XK8 and XKR  models.  
Currently has a 2003 XKR with 50K miles for $22,000.
 
I've got to say I'm tempted.  Anyone have any experience with these  models 
and their reliability?
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Fri Jun  6 14:33:16 2008
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (mgmagnette at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 16:33:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Jaguar Question
In-Reply-To: <cea.3523ae19.357af1d2@aol.com>
References: <cea.3523ae19.357af1d2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CA962BAEE45C51-F54-42D@FWM-D35.sysops.aol.com>

VERY reliable cars.? There is no concern there.



Four months ago I?got a?2004?XJ8 (not an R or a XK) with 66k on the clock for $14,500.?? This is the current model Jaguar is trying to get $70k for.

So I guess all I'm saying is, while $22k for a an XKR looks attractive, it might be high for a convertible?and for a coupe its DEFINATELY high.? 

Buying at the dealer:? AFAIK the?only?benefit?may be?the warranty.? Non-franchised dealers aren't exactly awash in these cars, but the dealer charges a heavy premium for the "certified pre-owned" warranty.? See what is covers, and see the repair history on the car.? If the car has never had ball joints and brakes, for example, and the warranty doesn't cover ball joints and brakes paying extra for the warranty might not be attractive because you may soon be shelling out for a non warranty repair.? Fears of engine blow ups and failed transmissions etc which most of these warranties cover are really unfounded on a under100k car.

Try joining www.jag-lovers.org mailing list.? The late model forums aren't too popular however.

-John


-----Original Message-----
From: RampantNM at aol.com
To: mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; spridgets at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 4:02 pm
Subject: [Mgs] Jaguar Question




I know it's off topic and I don't even own an ascot, but our local Jag  
dealer has been advertising deals that look attractive for XK8 and XKR  models.  

Currently has a 2003 XKR with 50K miles for $22,000.
 
I've got to say I'm tempted.  Anyone have any experience with these  models 
and their reliability?
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
You are subscribed as mgmagnette at aol.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Jun  6 15:37:39 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 21:37:39 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
Message-ID: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Greeting illustrious List members.
   I have an aluminum hood on Project 71 MGB.
   I has a patch of body filler coming off in a big chunk right in the middle. 
Hood is dented, filled poorly.
   I will first use heat to remove old Bondo. Then, I'll try to straighten out 
the dent with hammer, dolly, and shrink alloy by heating and quenching.
   Should these attempts fail, I will use my Hobart Handler 150 with aluminum 
wire to put a new patch in place. 

So, at long last, the question is addressed: What Gauge aluminum is the hood 
covered in?

Other suggestions welcome, as long as they're polite ones!

---Sorry if I used the wrong word or spelling for "gauge" I get these wicked 
headaches, they badly affect my concentration. And sometimes, I ramble on and on 
about things that aren't related to the subject at hand, too.
It's all on account of a car accident I had a .....
   (okay, you get the point)--
Eric
1946 MG-TC
Car # 1354
X-pag# 1945
Stock 
black, green interior ( I think they all were at that point of mfg.)
(rolling basket case. I'd sell if offer was right)


1959 MGA 
HDL43/65240
Engine # BP15GB 13501
(Early 1956 motor. Balanced, reground isky cam about the same as the moss fast 
road cam grind. Oversize mgb valves.Sacraligeous overdrive. Yea, that's my baby 
:-)
Stock Glacier blue,
black int. white piping.(or was it grey? or blue?)
( I'd sell my guitars, amps, computers, big screen TV and some of my tools 
before I'd sell my MGA).

65 mgb #GHN3L/ 55205
no engine plate
Green, black w/ white piping interior
Not pretty, but runs, drives, a joy to drive!
   Probably for sale soon  :-(

1970 MGB # GHN5UA217587 G
Engine # 18G-WE-H-42967
Man 8/70
stock color Flame red. Black int.
   (Future project to sell after completion)

71 MGB # GHN5UB 220942 G
engine # 18GK-WE-H-1768
Man 9/70 
stock color  orange, black int.
   (Future project to sell after completion)

74.5 MGB# GHN5UE364051 G
Engine # (to be filled in later).
white with black int. (Wrong color to go with those Gigantibumpers).
 (Current bottomless pit project to sell after completion)

2000 Xterra to be for sale soon.

So many cars, so little parking.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun  6 15:57:59 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 14:57:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
In-Reply-To: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C46F00F7.1851C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Ooh, man... It's pretty obvious why the filler approach failed (no chance).
But I am rather dubious that you can beat it out smoothly. I kind of doubt
that an old master panel beater from Brewster or Scaglietti could get a wave
out of the MGB bonnet -- it's too thin, and the original curve is held under
tension. It would be like trying to straighten a beer can, and one where you
couldn't access a lot of the back side. Likewise, I think patching would
also be doomed. It would probably cause a whole series of wrinkles where you
welded.

A little dimple from a golf ball, maybe, but a big dent -- fuggedaboudit.
Unless you could separate the outer skin from the inner frame...

I gave up on those aluminum bonnets -- they are like aluminum pie tins: use
once and recycle. Even the steel ones are pretty flimsy, but at least you
might have a fighting chance of straightening them out.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/6/08 2:37 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net at cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:

> Greeting illustrious List members.
>    I have an aluminum hood on Project 71 MGB.
>    I has a patch of body filler coming off in a big chunk right in the middle.
> Hood is dented, filled poorly.
>    I will first use heat to remove old Bondo. Then, I'll try to straighten out
> the dent with hammer, dolly, and shrink alloy by heating and quenching.
>    Should these attempts fail, I will use my Hobart Handler 150 with aluminum
> wire to put a new patch in place.
> 
> So, at long last, the question is addressed: What Gauge aluminum is the hood
> covered in?
> 
> Other suggestions welcome, as long as they're polite ones!
> 
> ---Sorry if I used the wrong word or spelling for "gauge" I get these wicked
> headaches, they badly affect my concentration. And sometimes, I ramble on and
> on 
> about things that aren't related to the subject at hand, too.
> It's all on account of a car accident I had a .....
>    (okay, you get the point)--
> Eric

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jun  7 06:05:12 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 13:05:12 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
References: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00eb01c8c897$7feb40c0$0200a8c0@Three>

It's correct, and I've never seen anyone apologise for using the *wrong*
spelling :o)
  ----- Original Message -----
  ---Sorry if I used the wrong word or spelling for "gauge" ...

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jun  7 06:18:11 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 12:18:11 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
Message-ID: <mailman.15203.1212841074.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>

LOL!

I 100% American but have read British car manuals for so many years that "gauge" is the only spelling I ever use. 
It's certainly NMGC but I bought a new car; a 1961 Mercedes 180b.  It is  being delivered this weekend. Its gaUges are all metric and labeled in German. :-)

Rick
------Original Message------
From: Paul Hunt
Sender: mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net
To: cyberemp at comcast.net
To: MG LIST
Sent: Jun 7, 2008 7:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge

It's correct, and I've never seen anyone apologise for using the *wrong*
spelling :o)
  ----- Original Message -----
  ---Sorry if I used the wrong word or spelling for "gauge" ...
You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jun  7 07:35:52 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 06:35:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
Message-ID: <402813.68312.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Rick, buying new cars when the B isn't on the road yet?? For shame! Or did I miss a post or two??

I'm actually a long ways back towards getting my '76 driving again. 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "rolindsay at yahoo.com" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net; cyberemp at comcast.net; MG LIST <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 7, 2008 8:18:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge

LOL!

I 100% American but have read British car manuals for so many years that "gauge" is the only spelling I ever use. 
It's certainly NMGC but I bought a new car; a 1961 Mercedes 180b.  It is  being delivered this weekend. Its gaUges are all metric and labeled in German. :-)

Rick
------Original Message------
From: Paul Hunt
Sender: mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net
To: cyberemp at comcast.net
To: MG LIST
Sent: Jun 7, 2008 7:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge

It's correct, and I've never seen anyone apologise for using the *wrong*
spelling :o)
  ----- Original Message -----
  ---Sorry if I used the wrong word or spelling for "gauge" ...
You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun  7 08:35:30 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 09:35:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
References: <402813.68312.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001501c8c8ab$bd91a220$8115a8c0@garage.local>

i'm looking forward to new posts about the merc and those detailed pictures 
and diagrams.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: <rolindsay at yahoo.com>; "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge


> Rick, buying new cars when the B isn't on the road yet?? For shame! Or did 
> I miss a post or two??
>
> I'm actually a long ways back towards getting my '76 driving again.
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "rolindsay at yahoo.com" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
> To: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; 
> mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net; cyberemp at comcast.net; MG 
> LIST <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 7, 2008 8:18:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
>
> LOL!
>
> I 100% American but have read British car manuals for so many years that 
> "gauge" is the only spelling I ever use.
> It's certainly NMGC but I bought a new car; a 1961 Mercedes 180b.  It is 
> being delivered this weekend. Its gaUges are all metric and labeled in 
> German. :-)
>
> Rick 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jun  7 09:04:45 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 08:04:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Pix, links, was: aluminum hood gauge
In-Reply-To: <001501c8c8ab$bd91a220$8115a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <406208.95178.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Oliver,

Thanks for the good words.

Sadly, I no longer post links to my hi-res photos as
they have not been received well here.  I do post my
MG photos and write-ups with my friends on the TR3a
Yahoo! Groups list.  Yes, they're Triumph people but
they enjoy sharing techniques and are quite open to
the MG content.  Same with the M-B work.  

Cars are cars, independent of the attraction to
particular marques. Personally, I don't like MGs any
better than Lancias or whatever.  What I DO love is
old CARS.

Please join us on the TR3a group if economical
restoration techniques is your cup-o-tea.  The traffic
is often very low but when its there, its fun and
respectful.

Best regards,

rick

--- Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> i'm looking forward to new posts about the merc and
> those detailed pictures 
> and diagrams.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> To: <rolindsay at yahoo.com>; "MG LIST"
> <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 8:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
> 
> 
> > Rick, buying new cars when the B isn't on the road
> yet?? For shame! Or did 
> > I miss a post or two??
> >
> > I'm actually a long ways back towards getting my
> '76 driving again.
> >
> > Dan D
> > Central NJ USA
> > '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In
> Progress...
> > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
> > NAMGBR #5-2328
> > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> >
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: "rolindsay at yahoo.com" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
> > To: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; 
> > mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net;
> cyberemp at comcast.net; MG 
> > LIST <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, June 7, 2008 8:18:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
> >
> > LOL!
> >
> > I 100% American but have read British car manuals
> for so many years that 
> > "gauge" is the only spelling I ever use.
> > It's certainly NMGC but I bought a new car; a 1961
> Mercedes 180b.  It is 
> > being delivered this weekend. Its gaUges are all
> metric and labeled in 
> > German. :-)
> >
> > Rick 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From RampantNM at aol.com  Sat Jun  7 12:47:20 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 14:47:20 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Pix, links, was: aluminum hood gauge
Message-ID: <cc0.3615baca.357c31b8@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/7/2008 9:05:10 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
rolindsay at yahoo.com writes:


Sadly, I no longer post links to my hi-res photos as
they have  not been received well here.


Dang Rick, part of the price of membership to  the autox lists  is putting up 
with He Who Shall Not Be Named that was banned from the  list.
 
I for one  would like to see the links...it's entirely up to me if I  decide  
to follow them.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jun  7 15:50:52 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 15:50:52 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
References: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<00eb01c8c897$7feb40c0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <009a01c8c8e8$8ec4a900$6601a8c0@shop>

<<It's correct, and I've never seen anyone apologise for using the *wrong*
spelling :o)
  ----- Original Message -----
  ---Sorry if I used the wrong word or spelling for "gauge" ...>>

LOL, Paul !!!!

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  8 06:03:37 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 05:03:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Su setting and tunung
Message-ID: <75792.19013.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,

   I write this morning to report that my '70 MGB is
once again alive.  The valve job is complete, ignition
fully rebuilt and the car started and ran just fine. 
Old engines are so cool.

   As the car warmed up my son noticed a small coolant
leak at the thermostat housing.  The coolant was
coming from around the threads of one stud.  We shut
the engine down and allowed everything to cool before
cleaning up the weep of coolant.
   I now realize what happened.  Two of the three
thermostat studs are open to the water jacket.  In my
quest to make everything 'pretty' I had set the height
of all studs equal in height.  That meant that the two
studs entering the water jacket were not 'bottomed
out' and THAT was where the coolant was entering the
threads and working its way out.
   I simply removed those two studs, applied a tiny
bit of sealant and ran them down until they bottomed
out.  I then replaced the nuts and washers and started
the engine.  Voila!  No leaks.  Now, a day later, its
time to tune.

   Thanks go out to Paul Hunt and Fred Sisson for
their excellent SU tuning write-ups.  I read the
Haynes version and then Paul and Fred's.  I didn't
pick up anything new but rather, just enjoyed the
refresher.  The only bit left out of these write-ups
was the process for centralizing the jets.  Still,
these are 'tuning' write-ups where centralizing the
jets, float bowl heights and needle selections are
'settings'.  My goal is not to debate semantics but
rather to thank Paul and Fred for taking the time to
write those reports.

   Today, I will 'tune' my SU carbs, if time permits. 
I'll start by checking the settings, including the
needle alignments, and then move on to mixture and
airflow.  Of course, this all assumes that I don't end
up with honey-dos before the Canadian F1 GP.  I choose
to not work the race this year and given the
temperatures, it was probably a good decision.  (Not
as young as I once was!)  After that we have family
junk to do.  My window of opportunity is now until the
Grand Prix.  So why am I typing and not tweaking?  I
dunno.  Better go.

regards,

rick
PS: I'll write a quick follow-on after the SUs are
back in good form.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  8 07:06:35 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 06:06:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fog light bulbs needed
Message-ID: <192153.91885.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello friends,

I have two sets of 4"-5" diameter, round Bosch
auxillary lights.  One set is clear driving lights,
the other amber fog lights.  The lamps are marked as
follows;

DOT LE1403C
SAE F69
2305602001...002

I need lamps for these fixtures.  I don't know their
age but they're no newer than 2000 - and are probably
a decade older. The bulb size is probably not modern
and is not the T4 size with the three metal tabs to
locate it.  Rather, the bulbs mounting appears to be
about 7/8" diameter, probably round and is connected
to the wiring with Lucar (1/4" tab) connectors,
located on the rear of the bulb.  That is, the light's
wiring is all external to the bulb.

Anyone care to venture a guess as to the size
description of the lamp fitting?  I need to buy lamps
for these fixtures but don't know the correct size and
as all lamps are now bubble-packed, I can't just go
trial-n-error fitting.  

All advice appreciated - even if you can just point me
in the right direction.  Google has failed me.  :-(

rick

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  8 07:45:31 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 06:45:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [tr3a] Fog light bulbs needed
In-Reply-To: <192153.91885.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <753517.96173.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello,

It seems that I wrote to you before finishing my
research.  I just photographed the lamp mounting hole,
so as to post a photo, and discovered in the high
contrast photograph that I could read "LAMPS H3"
faintly stamped on the housing.  Therefore, I have
answered my own question and added nothing more here
than noise.  Sorry.

rick

--- Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello friends,
> 
> I have two sets of 4"-5" diameter, round Bosch
> auxillary lights.  One set is clear driving lights,
> the other amber fog lights.  The lamps are marked as
> follows;
> 
> DOT LE1403C
> SAE F69
> 2305602001...002
> 
> I need lamps for these fixtures....

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  8 08:43:30 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 07:43:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [tr3a] Fog light bulbs needed
Message-ID: <971380.22862.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I'm just glad we could help, Rick! ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: tr3a at yahoogroups.com; MGS <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 8, 2008 9:45:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [tr3a] Fog light bulbs needed

Hello,

It seems that I wrote to you before finishing my
research.  I just photographed the lamp mounting hole,
so as to post a photo, and discovered in the high
contrast photograph that I could read "LAMPS H3"
faintly stamped on the housing.  Therefore, I have
answered my own question and added nothing more here
than noise.  Sorry.

rick

--- Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello friends,
> 
> I have two sets of 4"-5" diameter, round Bosch
> auxillary lights.  One set is clear driving lights,
> the other amber fog lights.  The lamps are marked as
> follows;
> 
> DOT LE1403C
> SAE F69
> 2305602001...002
> 
> I need lamps for these fixtures....

From wkilleffer at comcast.net  Sun Jun  8 09:35:34 2008
From: wkilleffer at comcast.net (wkilleffer at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2008 15:35:34 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB fuel gauge problem
Message-ID: <060820081535.15032.484BFC460002F48F00003AB822028887449D0A00000A0404070599@comcast.net>

Hey Everyone,

A couple of years ago, I noticed that the temp gauge and fuel gauge on my 1974 MGB were reading quite high. Temp gauge was pegging the H, and the fuel gauge couldn't be trusted. I learned about the voltage stabilizer behind the dashboard, and discovered that it had been bypassed. I hooked the gauges up to it, and they worked properly. Both seemed reasonably accurate.

Now, over the past couple of months, the fuel gauge has developed some kind of fault. Most of the time, the needle barely moves away from the E. It moves just enough to show that it's responding to electrical input, but no more. Now that the weather is getting hotter, I've noticed something odd. The fuel gauge will start working and give what appears to be an accurate reading. I reset the trip odo every time I fill the tank, so based on that mileage, the gauge is true. It will work for a few minutes, then it will go back down to near E.

I replaced the sending unit in the tank about 7 years ago. The temp gauge never has a problem.

Also, this doesn't happen every day.

What are some possible fuel gauge faults that could cause this?

Thank you,
-Bill

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Jun  8 11:30:50 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 03:00:50 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
In-Reply-To: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
References: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6B8AEB4B-0049-46F4-AE9C-1E8F4E8B27F4@erickson.on.net>

On 07/06/2008, at 7:07 AM, cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:

> Greeting illustrious List members.
>    I have an aluminum hood on Project 71 MGB.
>

I am not sure I have ever seen anyone seriously try to repair an  
aluminium bonnet (there is another spelling issue for you to take  
up).  But I am sure lots of people would like to.

My last one went over my windscreen and the insurance company  
(reluctantly) paid the $AU2000 to replace it (painted) - I know THEY  
would like to have been able to repair it.


>

Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  8 13:25:27 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 12:25:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Cleaning the Trans, Replacing Engine Mounts
Message-ID: <893698.60142.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Couple of questions -

1) Degreasing the transmission - what's the best way to do this? I guess I could scrape it by hand but that seems like a pain, and a test
     indicated that it would scratch the case up. I could get some of the engine degreaser that you spray off but would need make sure I
     didn't get anything inside the case, I guess. And would need to remove the electrical switches.... What have others done?

2) Engiune mounts - I guess I know the answer, but these need to be removed from underneath right? So the driver's side one looks like
     a real bear, do you have to loosen the steering shaft?

Thx....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun  8 14:29:59 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2008 13:29:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cleaning the Trans, Replacing Engine Mounts
In-Reply-To: <893698.60142.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C4718F57.1859A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Use a plastic spatula to scrape aluminum parts. You can find them with the
putty knives at the hardware store. Then Simple Green works as a washdown.

I've never had to disconnect the steering shaft on my 66, other than when I
replaced the rack. So, I would say, no.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/8/08 12:25 PM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> Couple of questions -
> 
> 1) Degreasing the transmission - what's the best way to do this? I guess I
> could scrape it by hand but that seems like a pain, and a test
>      indicated that it would scratch the case up. I could get some of the
> engine degreaser that you spray off but would need make sure I
>      didn't get anything inside the case, I guess. And would need to remove
> the electrical switches.... What have others done?
> 
> 2) Engiune mounts - I guess I know the answer, but these need to be removed
> from underneath right? So the driver's side one looks like
>      a real bear, do you have to loosen the steering shaft?
> 
> Thx....
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Jun  8 15:46:30 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 16:46:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Cleaning the Trans, Replacing Engine Mounts
In-Reply-To: <893698.60142.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <893698.60142.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C999A0A7-7BE7-46DB-8E75-F04EA5DDFD99@gmail.com>

You need to remove the steering shaft. It goes right through the mount  
point.

I can't think of any other choices for degreasing. You are going to  
need some chemical.


On Jun 8, 2008, at 2:25 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Couple of questions -
>
> 1) Degreasing the transmission - what's the best way to do this? I  
> guess I could scrape it by hand but that seems like a pain, and a test
>     indicated that it would scratch the case up. I could get some of  
> the engine degreaser that you spray off but would need make sure I
>     didn't get anything inside the case, I guess. And would need to  
> remove the electrical switches.... What have others done?
>
> 2) Engiune mounts - I guess I know the answer, but these need to be  
> removed from underneath right? So the driver's side one looks like
>     a real bear, do you have to loosen the steering shaft?
>
> Thx....

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Mon Jun  9 02:11:52 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 09:11:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB fuel gauge problem
In-Reply-To: <060820081535.15032.484BFC460002F48F00003AB822028887449D0A00000A0404070599@comcast.net>
References: <060820081535.15032.484BFC460002F48F00003AB822028887449D0A00000A0404070599@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806090111u16fce0c1k4bb5ab851a151fd7@mail.gmail.com>

I vote dodgy connections somewhere, most likely at the sender unit.  Give
both halves of the connection a good shine-up with emery paper, tighten the
the female spade connector and see how it goes.  If that doesn't help, work
you way back through all the other connectors in the circuit.

At least it is a quick, easy and free thing to check before you move onto
potentially more complex causes!

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun  9 02:25:42 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 09:25:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB fuel gauge problem
References: <060820081535.15032.484BFC460002F48F00003AB822028887449D0A00000A0404070599@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004201c8ca0a$f2552850$0200a8c0@Three>

Intermittent low or non-existent readings are usually caused by bad
connections somewhere, either that or the sender is sticking.  If you bridge
the green/black and black connections on the *spades* of the sender and the
gauge shoots up then it is the sender.

If that doesn't do it bridge the connectors on the wires this time, and if it
shoots up then it is the connections between the wires and the sender.

If that doesn't do it get a known good ground from somewhere and connect that
to the green/black, and if the gauge shoots up then it is a bad ground, which
comes from a number plate bolt in the boot.

If that doesn't do it connect a known good ground to both sides of the
green/black bullet connector in the mass by the fusebox.  If one side does it
but not the other than that connector is at fault.

If still no go it is a problem with the gauge or stabiliser connections, but
the foregoing are more likely, so I'll stop there for the moment.

PaulH.


----- Original Message -----
  From: wkilleffer at comcast.net
  To: mgs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 4:35 PM
  Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB fuel gauge problem


  Hey Everyone,

  A couple of years ago, I noticed that the temp gauge and fuel gauge on my
1974 MGB were reading quite high. Temp gauge was pegging the H, and the fuel
gauge couldn't be trusted. I learned about the voltage stabilizer behind the
dashboard, and discovered that it had been bypassed. I hooked the gauges up to
it, and they worked properly. Both seemed reasonably accurate.

  Now, over the past couple of months, the fuel gauge has developed some kind
of fault. Most of the time, the needle barely moves away from the E. It moves
just enough to show that it's responding to electrical input, but no more. Now
that the weather is getting hotter, I've noticed something odd. The fuel gauge
will start working and give what appears to be an accurate reading. I reset
the trip odo every time I fill the tank, so based on that mileage, the gauge
is true. It will work for a few minutes, then it will go back down to near E.

  I replaced the sending unit in the tank about 7 years ago. The temp gauge
never has a problem.

  Also, this doesn't happen every day.

  What are some possible fuel gauge faults that could cause this?

  Thank you,
  -Bill
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html


  You are subscribed as paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk


  Mgs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

  http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun  9 02:43:06 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 09:43:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Cleaning the Trans, Replacing Engine Mounts
References: <893698.60142.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <007101c8ca0d$0bd875a0$0200a8c0@Three>

I wouldn't worry about the switches or getting stuff inside the case as long
as all the bits are in place, they get worse than that on the road.  In fact
removing the switches would make it more likely to get stuff inside.

For a rubber bumper the steering shaft goes through the drivers side chassis
bracket so is an issue, it's not like that on chrome bumper.  I've changed the
engine mounts (round type) on my V8 with the rack in-situ by using a thin
spanner to loosen the nut half a flat at a time, then undo the engine side and
spin the mount off the remainder of the way.  Putting it back means sticking
or wedging the nut and washer to said spanner, offering them up, then
carefully screwing the mount into them, before attaching the other side of the
mount to the engine, and tightening the nut half a flat at a time again.

Since then I've had the rack off more times than I care to remember for other
reasons, it's no big deal, I'd probably do it that way in future (like this
afternoon when getting an engine out for a clutch change).  If you don't have
a scissors-type taper cracker to part the track-rod ends from the steering
arms then simply remove the steering arms from the hub assemblies, it's much
easier than mucking about with other methods of cracking the tapers.  Both my
cars have a notch in the top of the rack shaft so out can only fit with the UJ
one way.  The column shaft has a groove all the way round, if you leave the UJ
attached to the column shaft it is easy to get the same steering wheel
alignment back again (or 360 degrees out ho ho).  What you must be careful
about is to note any and all shims between the rack and the cross-member
brackets and put them back exactly as you found them, or the rack shaft to
steering column won't be the same as before.  Hopefully it was correct before,
if they are misaligned you can get rapid wear of the UJ and pinion bearing,
and even component breakage.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----

  1) Degreasing the transmission -


  2) Engiune mounts -
  .
  __,_._,___

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Jun  9 08:01:01 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 10:01:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB fuel gauge problem
Message-ID: <20080609.102100.2140.14.MGBOB@juno.com>

Bill,
  There is the possibility, actually not so rare around CT these days,
that someone who feels you have excess petrol in your tank is
transferring it to his tank.
   Another possibility is that the float on the tank's sending unit
leaking and getting heavy, though that would not explain initial
satisfactory operation followed by dropping to E.  
   Try cleaning each of the connectors in the system. The problem could
be something that simple.
Bob
 
On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 15:35:34 +0000 wkilleffer at comcast.net writes:
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> A couple of years ago, I noticed that the temp gauge and fuel gauge 
> on my 1974 MGB were reading quite high. Temp gauge was pegging the 
> H, and the fuel gauge couldn't be trusted. I learned about the 
> voltage stabilizer behind the dashboard, and discovered that it had 
> been bypassed. I hooked the gauges up to it, and they worked 
> properly. Both seemed reasonably accurate.
> 
> Now, over the past couple of months, the fuel gauge has developed 
> some kind of fault. Most of the time, the needle barely moves away 
> from the E. It moves just enough to show that it's responding to 
> electrical input, but no more. Now that the weather is getting 
> hotter, I've noticed something odd. The fuel gauge will start 
> working and give what appears to be an accurate reading. I reset the 
> trip odo every time I fill the tank, so based on that mileage, the 
> gauge is true. It will work for a few minutes, then it will go back 
> down to near E.
> 
> I replaced the sending unit in the tank about 7 years ago. The temp 
> gauge never has a problem.
> 
> Also, this doesn't happen every day.
> 
> What are some possible fuel gauge faults that could cause this?
> 
> Thank you,
> -Bill
____________________________________________________________
Recharge and relax.  Click for great vacation ideas.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nMAatkhP94Tb9OaV6s66nu3ukFHSFRQ2cHXJur6IJvfHcQd/

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jun  9 09:06:57 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 08:06:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
Message-ID: <414096.24096.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ha, that's a good one, Bob..... I think I am going to go the route of using the down pipe for the '75 B, instead of hollowing out the cat. Fewer
connections to worry about, and I can get $80 for the cat.....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
To: d_dibiase at yahoo.com
Cc: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 4, 2008 2:39:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter

Dan,
  There is a fellow in our club who knew his '79 would pass the sniffer
test but would not pass the visual inspection without a cat in the
system. 
  He slipped a tomato juice can over a section of pipe, fitted flanges,
bolted his device into the system before the annual emission test, and
removed it for safekeeping and loan to friends.  The car has a header, so
this device is fitted into the system under the driver seat, in a
straight run of tailpipe.  The car is now exempt from testing because of
its age.
Bob

On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:07:49 -0700 (PDT) Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
writes:
> Anyone replace their cat con with a piece of pipe on their '75 and 
> newer B? I want to dump mine - don't need it here with historic 
> registration - and
> am wondering what others have done. I guess I could simply hollow it 
> out but I'm not sure if there is anything hazardous inside that I 
> need be careful
> with..... I recall seeing 'test pipes' on eBay from time to time. I 
> guess I could also go to a local muffler shop with the cat and they 
> could make up
> something...
> 
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
____________________________________________________________
Take a break - you deserve it.  Click here to find a great vacation.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nJgyRvMJ9MDrampLqeiv6HpipH4rYbq0snW6hfxJHHSGKOl/

From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Mon Jun  9 11:11:04 2008
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 13:11:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1212688800.3535.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1212688800.3535.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF2C2F56@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

Dan,

	Check the Moss catalogue for exhaust down-pipe for a '75 B.  The
'75s and, I believe '76s did not come with cats.  Make sure the rest of
your exhaust is compatible with the '75 down-pipe (check part numbers).
If your not sure about the compatibility, ask Kelvin.
	Recommend, if you're so inclined, that you install the twin HS4
setup with separate intake & exhaust manifolds.  I did this on my old
'78 and there was a substantial low RPM power increase.  Not much
increase at high RPMs which, I believe, is due to the single carb cam
(if I'm wrong about the cam, please correct).

Good Luck, Skip '74 B


---------------------------------------------------------------
Original Message
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:07:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com, MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <347312.80842.qm at web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Anyone replace their cat con with a piece of pipe on their '75 and newer
B? I want to dump mine - don't need it here with historic registration -
and am wondering what others have done. I guess I could simply hollow it
out but I'm not sure if there is anything hazardous inside that I need
be careful with..... I recall seeing 'test pipes' on eBay from time to
time. I guess I could also go to a local muffler shop with the cat and
they could make up something...

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
NAMGBR #5-2328

From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Mon Jun  9 11:35:57 2008
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 13:35:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Aluminium Bonnets ?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1212948001.30290.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1212948001.30290.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF2C2FA8@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

Group,

	Didn't know any MGBs came with aluminum hoods (aluminium
bonnets).  Which years came with stock aluminum ones ?  I believe my '74
bonnet is steel (it might have been replaced by the PO).

Thanks, Skip '74 B

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jun  9 11:39:25 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 10:39:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Aluminium Bonnets ?
In-Reply-To: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF2C2FA8@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E05713F@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Skip. All of them up to about mid 1970 had alloy bonnets.

Kelvin.




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Christian, Skip
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 10:36 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGB Aluminium Bonnets ?
>
> Group,
>
> 	Didn't know any MGBs came with aluminum hoods
> (aluminium bonnets).  Which years came with stock aluminum
> ones ?  I believe my '74 bonnet is steel (it might have been
> replaced by the PO).
>
> Thanks, Skip '74 B

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Mon Jun  9 11:59:46 2008
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 10:59:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge
In-Reply-To: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
References: <060620082137.4298.4849AE22000EBD58000010CA22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F337D@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

I have on aluminum hood that's a little wavy that Id like to get rid
of..  Its in the SF bay area.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
cyberemp at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 2:38 PM
To: MG LIST
Subject: [Mgs] aluminum hood gauge

Greeting illustrious List members.
   I have an aluminum hood on Project 71 MGB.
   I has a patch of body filler coming off in a big chunk right in the
middle.
Hood is dented, filled poorly.
   I will first use heat to remove old Bondo. Then, I'll try to
straighten out
the dent with hammer, dolly, and shrink alloy by heating and quenching.
   Should these attempts fail, I will use my Hobart Handler 150 with
aluminum
wire to put a new patch in place.

So, at long last, the question is addressed: What Gauge aluminum is the
hood
covered in?

Other suggestions welcome, as long as they're polite ones!

---Sorry if I used the wrong word or spelling for "gauge" I get these
wicked
headaches, they badly affect my concentration. And sometimes, I ramble
on and on
about things that aren't related to the subject at hand, too.
It's all on account of a car accident I had a .....
   (okay, you get the point)--
Eric
1946 MG-TC
Car # 1354
X-pag# 1945
Stock
black, green interior ( I think they all were at that point of mfg.)
(rolling basket case. I'd sell if offer was right)


1959 MGA
HDL43/65240
Engine # BP15GB 13501
(Early 1956 motor. Balanced, reground isky cam about the same as the
moss fast
road cam grind. Oversize mgb valves.Sacraligeous overdrive. Yea, that's
my baby
:-)
Stock Glacier blue,
black int. white piping.(or was it grey? or blue?)
( I'd sell my guitars, amps, computers, big screen TV and some of my
tools
before I'd sell my MGA).

65 mgb #GHN3L/ 55205
no engine plate
Green, black w/ white piping interior
Not pretty, but runs, drives, a joy to drive!
   Probably for sale soon  :-(

1970 MGB # GHN5UA217587 G
Engine # 18G-WE-H-42967
Man 8/70
stock color Flame red. Black int.
   (Future project to sell after completion)

71 MGB # GHN5UB 220942 G
engine # 18GK-WE-H-1768
Man 9/70
stock color  orange, black int.
   (Future project to sell after completion)

74.5 MGB# GHN5UE364051 G
Engine # (to be filled in later).
white with black int. (Wrong color to go with those Gigantibumpers).
 (Current bottomless pit project to sell after completion)

2000 Xterra to be for sale soon.

So many cars, so little parking.
_______________________________________________

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jun  9 13:24:09 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 12:24:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
Message-ID: <643022.75214.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

That's my plan, but I didn't see a separate downpipe for the '75, only for the '76, which is equiped with the catcon (I should know....!). I actually
sent a quick note off the Moss this am questioning that. I assume they have, as Vicky Brit does. As far as the dual carbs, for now, I am sticking
with the Z-S carb, as I don't want to spend the bucks on the duals for this car, which is supposed to be my beater to drive while I restore my
'65!!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian at navy.mil>
To: mgs at autox.team.net; d_dibiase at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2008 1:11:04 PM
Subject: RE: Replacing Catalytic Converter

Dan,

    Check the Moss catalogue for exhaust down-pipe for a '75 B.  The
'75s and, I believe '76s did not come with cats.  Make sure the rest of
your exhaust is compatible with the '75 down-pipe (check part numbers).
If your not sure about the compatibility, ask Kelvin.
    Recommend, if you're so inclined, that you install the twin HS4
setup with separate intake & exhaust manifolds.  I did this on my old
'78 and there was a substantial low RPM power increase.  Not much
increase at high RPMs which, I believe, is due to the single carb cam
(if I'm wrong about the cam, please correct).

Good Luck, Skip '74 B


---------------------------------------------------------------
Original Message
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:07:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com, MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <347312.80842.qm at web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Anyone replace their cat con with a piece of pipe on their '75 and newer
B? I want to dump mine - don't need it here with historic registration -
and am wondering what others have done. I guess I could simply hollow it
out but I'm not sure if there is anything hazardous inside that I need
be careful with..... I recall seeing 'test pipes' on eBay from time to
time. I guess I could also go to a local muffler shop with the cat and
they could make up something...

Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328

From guinness at stclegal.com  Mon Jun  9 14:12:37 2008
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 15:12:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Power Fade and Recover
Message-ID: <484D8EB5.8@stclegal.com>

After replacing my cylinder head, rebuilding the carbs, adjusting the 
valves, re-timing the engine, balancing the carbs, and adjusting the 
idle, I get a power "fade" after about 15 minutes of driving.  The car 
runs rough (no backfire though  --  just a loose "fluffing" like sound 
as if its missing a few beats with no power for a few minutes.  Then, 
all of a sudden, it will roar back to a tight, finely tuned powerhouse.  
I assume it is a fuel delivery problem.  Where do I start the 
diagnostics?  The car is a 1960 MGA with a 1963 MGB 1800 engine and the 
original MGA carbs.

Also, where can I search this list's archive.  The link to 
www.listquest.com says the domain name is for sale.

Thanks in advance.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jun  9 14:40:21 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 13:40:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Power Fade and Recover
In-Reply-To: <484D8EB5.8@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E0571DF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Robert:

Since you had head work done, I'd check for a sticking valve. If the
valve guides are too tight, one of more valves could start hangine up as
the engine warms up and the clearance gets tighter.

The symptom is similar to what you are describing and typically leads
one to check fuel and ignition issues to no avail.



Kelvin


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Robert J. Guinness
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 1:13 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Power Fade and Recover
>
> After replacing my cylinder head, rebuilding the carbs,
> adjusting the valves, re-timing the engine, balancing the
> carbs, and adjusting the idle, I get a power "fade" after
> about 15 minutes of driving.  The car runs rough (no backfire
> though  --  just a loose "fluffing" like sound as if its
> missing a few beats with no power for a few minutes.  Then,
> all of a sudden, it will roar back to a tight, finely tuned
> powerhouse.
> I assume it is a fuel delivery problem.  Where do I start the
> diagnostics?  The car is a 1960 MGA with a 1963 MGB 1800
> engine and the original MGA carbs.
>
> Also, where can I search this list's archive.  The link to
> www.listquest.com says the domain name is for sale.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --
> Robert Guinness

From philip.s.jones at comcast.net  Mon Jun  9 14:54:39 2008
From: philip.s.jones at comcast.net (Phil Jones)
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 20:54:39 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Pix, links, was: aluminum hood gauge
Message-ID: <060920082054.1283.484D988F00058FEE0000050322058864429C0A020106D29CD29F070407089F@comcast.net>

I really enjoyed the links as well.  I appreciate your sensitivity to concerns expressed by other list recipients; but urge you to reconsider.

It's kind of like "one unhappy customer tells a hundred friends; but a happy customer keeps the news to himself".  I suspect that you have lots of happy (albeit silent) customers out there.

Thanks,

Phil

PS:  It's your suggestion that I subscribe to a *Triumph* list that has me up in arms!  (just kidding).

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> In a message dated 6/7/2008 9:05:10 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, 
> rolindsay at yahoo.com writes: 
> 
> 
> Sadly, I no longer post links to my hi-res photos as 
> they have not been received well here. 

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jun  9 15:05:12 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 14:05:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
In-Reply-To: <643022.75214.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E0571FD@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Dan:

Moss no longer has sourcing for the separate 1975 headpipe.

A complete exhaust system is still available from Falcon in Stainless
Steel, but that won't be a help to you.

It would be really cool if you could find an Austin Marina combination
intake/exhaust manifold for cheap somewhere. You can bolt the original
ZS carb. onto it and run the early MGB dual downpipe.

Otherwise, running a gutted cat is the way to go.



Kelvin


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 12:24 PM
> To: Christian, Skip; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
>
> That's my plan, but I didn't see a separate downpipe for the
> '75, only for the '76, which is equiped with the catcon (I
> should know....!). I actually sent a quick note off the Moss
> this am questioning that. I assume they have, as Vicky Brit
> does. As far as the dual carbs, for now, I am sticking with
> the Z-S carb, as I don't want to spend the bucks on the duals
> for this car, which is supposed to be my beater to drive
> while I restore my '65!!
>
>  Dan D

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Mon Jun  9 19:42:00 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 21:42:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Cleaning the Trans, Replacing Engine Mounts
Message-ID: <20080610013813.26E94187649@autox.team.net>

Dan:

After a race weekend, I have a lot of oil resdue under my car, and in some areas, quite a build up of muck that is really the result of years of neglect in hard to reach places.  I do a wipe down with brake cleaner aerosol as a regular maintenance routine.  Some is from my trans and diff, some from other cars.  The brake clean is effective and relatively inexpensive.  I use an Autozone generic.  But don't breath in.

Jim 
1957 MGA #311

-----Original Message-----

From:  Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Subj:  [Mgs] Cleaning the Trans, Replacing Engine Mounts
Date:  Sun Jun 8, 2008 3:25 pm
Size:  1K
To:  mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com, MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>

Couple of questions -

1) Degreasing the transmission - what's the best way to do this? I guess I could scrape it by hand but that seems like a pain, and a test
     indicated that it would scratch the case up. I could get some of the engine degreaser that you spray off but would need make sure I
     didn't get anything inside the case, I guess. And would need to remove the electrical switches.... What have others done?

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Mon Jun  9 23:21:36 2008
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 22:21:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cleaning the Trans, Replacing Engine Mounts
References: <20080610013813.26E94187649@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CC17E0D6B84845A7B50C8E3EA6F616CA@XPS400>

Brake cleaner is a very aggressive paint remover.  Be careful where you 
spray it.
Ron

> After a race weekend, I have a lot of oil resdue under my car, and in some 
> areas, quite a build up of muck that is really the result of years of 
> neglect in hard to reach places.  I do a wipe down with brake cleaner 
> aerosol as a regular maintenance routine.  Some is from my trans and diff, 
> some from other cars.  The brake clean is effective and relatively 
> inexpensive.  I use an Autozone generic.  But don't breath in.
>
> Jim
> 1957 MGA #311

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Mon Jun  9 23:36:00 2008
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 01:36:00 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] An MGB that needs Saving
Message-ID: <c35.36b1ee47.357f6cc0@aol.com>

a pretty clean looking MGB? Near Sacramento.


NFI


_http://sacramento.http://sacrhttp://sacramenthttp:/_ 
(http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/713932778.html) 

 (mailto:mgs at autox.team.net) 



**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
2008.      (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)

From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Tue Jun 10 05:22:46 2008
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 07:22:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E0571FD@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <643022.75214.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E0571FD@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF2C3305@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

Good idea; I forgot about them.   But, why not use the Marina carb ??

Skip

-----Original Message-----
From: Dodd, Kelvin [mailto:doddk at mossmotors.com]
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 17:05
To: Dan DiBiase; Christian, Skip; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter

Dan:

Moss no longer has sourcing for the separate 1975 headpipe.

A complete exhaust system is still available from Falcon in Stainless
Steel, but that won't be a help to you.

It would be really cool if you could find an Austin Marina combination
intake/exhaust manifold for cheap somewhere. You can bolt the original
ZS carb. onto it and run the early MGB dual downpipe.

Otherwise, running a gutted cat is the way to go.



Kelvin


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Dan DiBiase
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 12:24 PM
> To: Christian, Skip; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacing Catalytic Converter
>
> That's my plan, but I didn't see a separate downpipe for the '75, only

> for the '76, which is equiped with the catcon (I should know....!). I
> actually sent a quick note off the Moss this am questioning that. I
> assume they have, as Vicky Brit does. As far as the dual carbs, for
> now, I am sticking with the Z-S carb, as I don't want to spend the
> bucks on the duals for this car, which is supposed to be my beater to
> drive while I restore my '65!!
>
>  Dan D

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Jun 10 12:56:37 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:56:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] hand brake
Message-ID: <C49D7E11-A747-4CCC-9CFD-BC630D2A9D61@gmail.com>

I went out in the car at lunch, and find that the hand brake button is  
missing. I'm guessing
the rod too.

They maybe in the garage, I don't know, I don't always use it. I did  
over the weekend though.

There's apparently 3 different ones. Are they that much different?

In the moss online catalog they reference numbers of the car. That's  
the ending 6 digits in the VIN right?

In which case, I'd need the 182-330 version, if there is a real  
difference.

On eBay, there's one going for $152? Is that for real? Why are these  
unobtainium?

I'm looking for used.


Paul.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 11 13:39:06 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 12:39:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Steering wheel for 62-67 B
Message-ID: <C47577EA.1870E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I loaned my MGB out for a week, and, of course, the person broke my steering
wheel by using it to lever himself out of the car. But it had been showing
stress cracks for some time, so I wasn't really surprised. Now the question
is what to do about it.

This is not a factory "banjo" wheel. This is a vintage 3-spoke, aluminum,
wood rim aftermarket wheel, of a style I have never seen anywhere else. It
is the same diameter as a factory wheel (16-inch?), the rim is very thin,
and the 3 spokes are equidistant, which is clearly a specific adaptation for
the MGB.

Most aftermarket wheel have three spokes at about 2:30, 6, and 9:30, but
this is a crummy layout for an early B, since the side spokes cover the
lower portions of the tach and speedo. The factory's solution for not
blocking the instruments was to put the spokes at 3:30, 6 and 8:30, which
worked for that purpose, but was very flexible and prone to cracking due to
the unsupported 190 degree arc at the top, where all the manhandling was
going on.

My wheel has the spokes at 12, 4 and 8, which leaves the instruments
completely visible, while supporting the rim equally all around. Otherwise,
it resembles several of the TT or Moto-Lita wheels in the Moss catalog, with
rivets in the wood part of the rim, tapered slots in the spokes, and a
circle of screw heads around the hub.

Anyway, if anyone knows where I could procure a wheel of this style, I would
be glad to replace it. Otherwise, I would be interested in acquiring an
inexpensive used wheel of any style to fit a 1962-67 B, to use while I
disassemble and restore this one. The aluminum portion is essentially a flat
disk with various cut-outs and holes, which nowadays could be waterjet cut
from a CAD template very easily. But I'd like to drive the car in the
meantime.

TIA

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Wed Jun 11 14:37:51 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:37:51 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Bonnet Gauge. Revisited.
Message-ID: <061120082037.3422.4850379F0009AB1D00000D5E22155670749F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Greetings again-0-list.

three things.

1. I'm glad to have helped produce more laughter in the world with my spelling 
apology. :-)

2. Apparently no one knows the gauge of the bonnet aluminum. 

3. Concensus seems to be the Aluminum bonnet can't be fixed. 

my chosen brand of body filler (USC auto body Icing ) doesn't say it works on aluminum, though the people at the auto body supply shop said is would, F.W.I.W). filler package also says not to 
apply more than 1/8"  Thick. 
the dinner plate sized piece of filler flaking off my hood is about a1/4" thick.

I'll test your cynical ideas about the repairability of the aluminum bonnet, and post my results.
Eric.
So many cars, so little parking.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 11 14:46:52 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:46:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Bonnet Gauge. Revisited.
In-Reply-To: <061120082037.3422.4850379F0009AB1D00000D5E22155670749F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C47587CC.18726%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I would say they main reason a filler patch won't adhere in the long term is
that the skin of the bonnet resonates like a drumhead when underway. Over
time it is the equivalent of banging your fist against the back of the panel
-- eventually it will pop off.

Maybe if you tried red lead (old time approach).

A bodyman I know recommends a product called Long & Strong as being tougher
than normal plastic filler. But what is needed in this case is more
adhesion.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 6/11/08 1:37 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net at cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings again-0-list.
> 
> three things.
> 
> 1. I'm glad to have helped produce more laughter in the world with my spelling
> apology. :-)
> 
> 2. Apparently no one knows the gauge of the bonnet aluminum.
> 
> 3. Concensus seems to be the Aluminum bonnet can't be fixed.
> 
> my chosen brand of body filler (USC auto body Icing ) doesn't say it works on
> aluminum, though the people at the auto body supply shop said is would,
> F.W.I.W). filler package also says not to
> apply more than 1/8"  Thick.
> the dinner plate sized piece of filler flaking off my hood is about a1/4"
> thick.
> 
> I'll test your cynical ideas about the repairability of the aluminum bonnet,
> and post my results.
> Eric.
> So many cars, so little parking.
> _______________________________________________

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Wed Jun 11 14:57:48 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:57:48 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] mgb milage query, and webber carb. identity question
Message-ID: <061120082057.8016.48503C4C000CFDDC00001F5022155670749F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

salutations my MG brothers and sisters!!

my daily driver is a 65 MGB. 5 main engine with stock cam, running a webber 
conversion and a four synchro 
trans.

My last fill up the milage was 15 mpg. I've checked the odometer against highway 
markings, and it's accurate.
   My questions.. 
1. this seems really bad for the mgb. I thought the cars were typically getting 
around 27 mpg.


2 is this the right rebuild kit for these carbs? >REBUILD KIT FOR WEBER 32/36 
DFEV/DFAV<
  
 car has a fuel air mixture LED readout that always reads rich, so that needs 
to be addressed after rebuild.

Now that I think of it, a full tune up is also in the future.
   other (polite) suggestions appreciated.

Eric.
so many cars, so little parking.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Jun 11 15:05:51 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:05:51 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] mgb milage query, and webber carb. identity question
Message-ID: <d0d.357c1741.3581982f@aol.com>

May I suggest (politely) that you ditch that horrid carb and put a pair of  
rebuilt SUs on it. You will not only get more power, but about 10 MPG better  
mileage.  I'm sure there is a landfill somewhere just dying to give it a  
home.....
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 6/11/2008 1:58:11 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
cyberemp at comcast.net writes:

Now that  I think of it, a full tune up is also in the future.
other  (polite) suggestions  appreciated.

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun 11 17:10:07 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:10:07 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Steering wheel for 62-67 B
References: <C47577EA.1870E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <009f01c8cc18$4ac53a20$6601a8c0@shop>

Max, Mike is the answer<G>!!!

http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels

I know a LOT of folks who have his products and every one RAVES about them.

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun 11 17:14:37 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:14:37 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] mgb milage query, and webber carb. identity question
References: <d0d.357c1741.3581982f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00ad01c8cc18$eb62c7e0$6601a8c0@shop>

<<May I suggest (politely) that you ditch that horrid carb and put a pair of  rebuilt SUs on it. You will not only get more power, but about 10 MPG better  mileage.  I'm sure there is a landfill somewhere just dying to give it a  home.....>>

Bill is a 1000% correct Eric, EXCEPT the landfill WILL charge for  taking the "horrid carb" !!!  LOL

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 11 17:40:37 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 16:40:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Steering wheel for 62-67 B
In-Reply-To: <009f01c8cc18$4ac53a20$6601a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <C475B085.1875A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

We have a winner <g>.

On the Lempert home page, the item labelled "slotted style steering wheels"
is a dead ringer. Except for being polished, and varnished, and generally
too clean and snazzy. Oh, and minor point, the rim rivets are arranged
symmetrically -- I guess mine is not an original Lempert.

:-(

Thanks, Ed, I know I've been to this page before, but I'd forgotten it, and
didn't have it bookmarked.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


PS: I saw that Mike referred to this style as "Derrington" -- I googled
Derrington and found that Moto-Lita does make this style wheel in 16 inch,
but apparently Moss US doesn't carry it. But at 184.50 British pounds, it's
even more expensive than Lempert's made-to-order wheel.

PPS: Whoever outfitted my B way back when had expensive tastes. Besides the
"Derrington" wheel, it had chrome wires, and cast aluminum window winders
with real wood inserts and knobs, and matching door pulls. And, of course, a
walnut MG shift knob, and (not of course) a walnut veneer dash insert (on
the instrument surround) and radio speaker bezel. All of which have acquired
a serious patina at this point. Too bad he couldn't keep the bearings
together, and avoid running into things.



on 6/11/08 4:10 PM, Ed's Shop at shop at justbrits.com wrote:

> Max, Mike is the answer<G>!!!
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
> 
> I know a LOT of folks who have his products and every one RAVES about them.
> 
> Ed

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Jun 11 18:09:51 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:09:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] mgb milage query, and webber carb. identity question
In-Reply-To: <00ad01c8cc18$eb62c7e0$6601a8c0@shop>
References: <d0d.357c1741.3581982f@aol.com>
	<00ad01c8cc18$eb62c7e0$6601a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10806111709j60b0db24ra0eabddab213b358@mail.gmail.com>

While I am also a fan of dual SUs, I would not trash the DGV that bad.  When
properly set up, it is not a bad unit.   For sure it is better than the
penis Stromberg on a rbB.
If you choose to rebuild it pay close attention to the float setting and
which jets are installed.  Depending on who sold the unit it could well have
totally the wrong (too rich) jets.  If it still runs rich step the jets down
one size a time. (Idles and mains)
Have fun, if you have any further questions, feel free to ask.
Rick
(Who used to sell Webers)

On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 4:14 PM, Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:

> <<May I suggest (politely) that you ditch that horrid carb and put a pair
> of  rebuilt SUs on it. You will not only get more power, but about 10 MPG
> better  mileage.  I'm sure there is a landfill somewhere just dying to give
> it a  home.....>>
>
> Bill is a 1000% correct Eric, EXCEPT the landfill WILL charge for  taking
> the "horrid carb" !!!  LOL
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun 11 21:19:05 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 21:19:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Steering wheel for 62-67 B
References: <C475B085.1875A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <022f01c8cc3b$1261b870$6601a8c0@shop>

<<Thanks, Ed,>>

My pleasure, Max!!

<< I know I've been to this page before, but I'd forgotten it,>>

OFdom at it's BEST !!!!    LOL

<< and didn't have it bookmarked.>>

Oh, the SHAME of it all !!!!!!  <VBG>  NOT bookmark a site with such things of BEAUTY !?!?!?    Shame!!!!

From batangelias at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 12 06:03:12 2008
From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 05:03:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 520bhp MG
In-Reply-To: <022f01c8cc3b$1261b870$6601a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <705682.33757.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

With the price of fossil fuel irreverently getting higher .... I'd like to see the  electric version capable of 150mph and 0-60mph in five seconds.

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/firstdrives/223320/mg_xpower_svr.html

Just happy MG is still kicking.

Martin
'65 MGB

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 12 09:17:38 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 08:17:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Wasn't Someone looking for an Emergency Brake Handle?
Message-ID: <918184.72434.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-1963-80-Emergency-Brake-Lever_W0QQitemZ310058227750QQihZ021QQcategoryZ34199QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jun 12 09:48:59 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 10:48:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Wasn't Someone looking for an Emergency Brake
 Handle?
In-Reply-To: <918184.72434.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <918184.72434.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F47FBEF6-CB4B-4E56-9FB2-03D02B65E4F2@gmail.com>

I bought it. Thanks, Dan.

That's cheap. Compared to what other prices I've seen.

Paul.



On Jun 12, 2008, at 10:17 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-1963-80-Emergency-Brake-Lever_W0QQitemZ310058227750QQihZ021QQcategoryZ34199QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
>    Individual Email | Traditional
>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
>    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join
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>
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>    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 12 10:02:47 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 11:02:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] repairing aluminum bonnet
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15694.1213283850.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15694.1213283850.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <FAB233DC-EEB7-462A-8066-47FD1494D0D7@sbcglobal.net>

I have successfully repaired a crack in mine and never had problem  
with the aluminum panel.

If you have some type of crack or hole, you need to melt aluminum  
into it.  You don't need a great weld just a filler of the same  
material.

prepare all your panels with a mild acid etch such as R-M 801 metal  
conditioner or Eastwoods Fast Etch. 801 come in quarts and you can  
likely buy locally.

You should never apply materials over aluminum without having zinc  
chromate primer as a base.  It will adhere to aluminum and stop the  
corrosion.
R-M makes a chromated epoxy primer ( http://superiorpaints.com/rmtech/ 
DE49-1.htm)

Preparation is the key with any paint job!

Mike

On Jun 12, 2008, at 10:17 AM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> I'll test your cynical ideas about the repairability of the  
> aluminum bonnet, and post my results.
> Eric.
> So many cars, so little parking.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 12 10:12:34 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:12:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 520bhp MG
In-Reply-To: <705682.33757.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C4769902.187A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

You wouldn't see that kind of performance from an electric car weighing
3000+ lbs (before the battery pack). The only reason that the Tesla is
capable of that kind of performance is that it is based on practically the
lightest platform made, the Lotus Elise/Exige.

As far as MG "still kicking", I am a little confused how this project is
related to the 'new' Chinese MG company, and how it has the right to use the
name. It seems to be a small private concern.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


On 6/12/08 5:03 AM, Martin C. Galan at batangelias at yahoo.com wrote:

> With the price of fossil fuel irreverently getting higher .... I'd like to see
> the  electric version capable of 150mph and 0-60mph in five seconds.
> 
> http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/firstdrives/223320/mg_xpower_svr.html
> 
> Just happy MG is still kicking.
> 
> Martin
> '65 MGB

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 12 10:55:05 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:55:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Wasn't Someone looking for an Emergency Brake
 Handle?
Message-ID: <288387.46883.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Good deal, glad it worked out, Paul.....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com
Cc: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 11:48:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Wasn't Someone looking for an Emergency Brake Handle?

I bought it. Thanks, Dan.

That's cheap. Compared to what other prices I've seen.

Paul.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Thu Jun 12 11:13:00 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 17:13:00 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] repairing aluminum bonnet
Message-ID: <061220081713.11098.4851591C0004BAC600002B5A22165384969F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Mike
thank you.
all advice appreciated.
Eric
so many cars, so little parking

--
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
> I have successfully repaired a crack in mine and never had problem  
> with the aluminum panel.
> 
> If you have some type of crack or hole, you need to melt aluminum  
> into it.  You don't need a great weld just a filler of the same  
> material.
> 
> prepare all your panels with a mild acid etch such as R-M 801 metal  
> conditioner or Eastwoods Fast Etch. 801 come in quarts and you can  
> likely buy locally.
> 
> You should never apply materials over aluminum without having zinc  
> chromate primer as a base.  It will adhere to aluminum and stop the  
> corrosion.
> R-M makes a chromated epoxy primer ( http://superiorpaints.com/rmtech/ 
> DE49-1.htm)
> 
> Preparation is the key with any paint job!
> 
> Mike
> 
> On Jun 12, 2008, at 10:17 AM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> >
> > I'll test your cynical ideas about the repairability of the  
> > aluminum bonnet, and post my results.
> > Eric.
> > So many cars, so little parking.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Thu Jun 12 11:15:00 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 17:15:00 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Bonnet Gauge. Revisited.
Message-ID: <061220081715.16611.48515994000460CC000040E322165384969F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Thank you. 
I'll see what I can accomplish.
Eric
so many cars, so little parking

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "riverside" <riverside at cedar-rapids.net>
> 18 gauge.
> can be repaired  but takes more practice and effort than steel.
> I recommend using either a Jacobs torch or Tig welder .
> Ron
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <cyberemp at comcast.net>
> To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 3:37 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Bonnet Gauge. Revisited.
> 
> 
> > Greetings again-0-list.
> >
> > three things.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jun 12 11:28:45 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 12:28:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 520bhp MG
In-Reply-To: <C4769902.187A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C4769902.187A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <762B1B65-1802-4BB0-9417-0CD8ABF344D0@gmail.com>

It's not related to the Chinese.

When they bought the car, they bought the rights to use the name MG  
with that car.
So I don't get how they can build a new car and still call it MG.

On Jun 12, 2008, at 11:12 AM, Max Heim wrote:

> You wouldn't see that kind of performance from an electric car  
> weighing
> 3000+ lbs (before the battery pack). The only reason that the Tesla is
> capable of that kind of performance is that it is based on  
> practically the
> lightest platform made, the Lotus Elise/Exige.
>
> As far as MG "still kicking", I am a little confused how this  
> project is
> related to the 'new' Chinese MG company, and how it has the right to  
> use the
> name. It seems to be a small private concern.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> On 6/12/08 5:03 AM, Martin C. Galan at batangelias at yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> With the price of fossil fuel irreverently getting higher .... I'd  
>> like to see
>> the  electric version capable of 150mph and 0-60mph in five seconds.
>>
>> http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/firstdrives/223320/mg_xpower_svr.html
>>
>> Just happy MG is still kicking.
>>
>> Martin
>> '65 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From batangelias at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 12 18:59:22 2008
From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 17:59:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 520bhp MG
In-Reply-To: <C4769902.187A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <188926.23102.qm@web34208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Max,

Your observation that "It seems to be a small private concern" is quite
accurate. A #2 million venture to be exact.

It seems that the MG mark has two personalities the "MG" bought by Chinese
owners Nanjing who are yet to produce the cars in volume and the "MG
X-Power".

The latter is owned by William Riley, scion of the Riley dynasty that produced
the Riley Nines, Lynx, Imp and Sprites. He put up MG Sports and Racing Europe
Ltd.


http://www.birminghammail.net/news/top-stories/2008/04/08/mg-is-back-on-the-r
oad-97319-20735653/

As the Chinese&nbsp; say ... "we are living in interesting times".

Martin
' 65 MGB


--- On Fri, 6/13/08, Max Heim &lt;max_heim at sbcglobal.net&gt; wrote:
From: Max Heim &lt;max_heim at sbcglobal.net&gt;
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 520bhp MG
To: "MG List" &lt;mgs at autox.team.net&gt;
Date: Friday, June 13, 2008, 12:12 AM

You wouldn't see that kind of performance from an electric car weighing
3000+ lbs (before the battery pack). The only reason that the Tesla is
capable of that kind of performance is that it is based on practically the
lightest platform made, the Lotus Elise/Exige.

As far as MG "still kicking", I am a little confused how this project
is
related to the 'new' Chinese MG company, and how it has the right to
use the
name. It seems to be a small private concern.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


On 6/12/08 5:03 AM, Martin C. Galan at batangelias at yahoo.com wrote:

&gt; With the price of fossil fuel irreverently getting higher .... I'd
like to see
&gt; the  electric version capable of 150mph and 0-60mph in five seconds.
&gt;
&gt;
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/firstdrives/223320/mg_xpower_svr.html
&gt;
&gt; Just happy MG is still kicking.
&gt;
&gt; Martin
&gt; '65 MGB
You are subscribed as batangelias at yahoo.com


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From kger at plex.com  Fri Jun 13 06:47:34 2008
From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 08:47:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] How to bleed master cylinder?
In-Reply-To: <00a401c8c09a$2728a1d0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <483BFDB7.15068.D6C717@kger.plex.com>,
	<00a401c8c09a$2728a1d0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <48523426.14437.51972C3@kger.plex.com>

Thanks for the insight.

So the master cylinder likely has a problem inside.  How difficult is 
it to redo one with one of those rebuild kits?  Or should I just look 
into getting a new/refurbished one?

-- 
Keith G.

------------------------------
On Wednesday, May 28, 2008 at 8:59, Paul Hunt wrote:

> With a dual-circuit system I don't see how you can bleed with the
> pedal unless both circuits have an open bleed nipple, as the pressure
> from one circuit will prevent the pedal from moving far enough to
> bleed the other properly. Try constant pressure bleedinglike the
> EeziBleed, or opening both circuits, but then you would probably need
> Speedbleeders for that. having said that it wasn't long ago that
> someone had a similar problem and it turned out to be defects inside
> the master. And if no fluid at all comes out of that port with the
> pipe disconnected, then it does look like a problem inside the master.
> 
> PaulH. 
> 
>     ----- Original Message ----- 
>     My '79 B (with boosted brakes and the brake pressure sensor) needs
>     its rear brake circuit bled. After not making any progress with
>     it, I traced the problem back to the master cylinder. When pumping
>     the brake pedal no fluid comes out of that port on the master
>     cylinder. 

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Jun 13 07:40:45 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 09:40:45 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] How to bleed master cylinder?
Message-ID: <20080613.095046.3916.13.MGBOB@juno.com>

Keith,
   The MC of the 1979 cars is not difficult to rebuild. Messy, time
consuming, but not complicated.  Still, if you haven't done one before,
ask a friend to assess the bore for pitting, and to look over your
shoulder as you do it.
Bob
 
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 08:47:34 -0400 "Keith G." <kger at plex.com> writes:
> Thanks for the insight.
> 
> So the master cylinder likely has a problem inside.  How difficult 
> is 
> it to redo one with one of those rebuild kits?  Or should I just 
> look 
> into getting a new/refurbished one?
> 
> -- 
> Keith G.
____________________________________________________________
Sweepstakes!!! 
Enter for your chance to WIN  a summer spa getaway!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UjkQwLxXfWhb4f5bDRSajKKqYzI12fAf4Xq93WTIFBopE5/

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Jun 13 11:29:55 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:29:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear engine mountin
References: <20080410.124110.1260.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<00a401c89baf$33591f80$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <001f01c8cd7b$18df7bb0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Hello All,

Well, thanks to the folks on this list, the engine and overdrive 
transmission are back in my daughter's '72 MGB.  I have secured the front 
engine mounts, but have not yet fitted the rear X brace or the two metal 
brackets and rear mounts in its center. These two brackets are, of course, 
not symmetrical and I'm wondering which way round they should be fit. Rather 
than lie under the car, using the trial and error method, I thought I'd put 
the question to The List. I'm O.K. with the rear X member, hole toward the 
rear, speedo cable securing nut to the right, but how are the two metal 
bracket in the center supposed to go?

Thanks,

Ed Woods 

From dwillner at ptd.net  Fri Jun 13 13:50:54 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 15:50:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch slave bleeding
Message-ID: <000601c8cd8e$cb0e47e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

When bleeding the brakes on a 70, is it also necessary to bleed the clutch's
slave cylinder at the same time?  The clutch has about 13K miles on it and it.
I did bleed the brakes correctly and centered the pressure switch and they
seem to work real good, the brake check light switch had come on.  I didn't
recognize any signficant difference in the clutch pedal other than it seems to
be disengaging pretty close to the floor now, a little low I believe for a
clutch kinda still somewhat new? Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Fri Jun 13 14:05:07 2008
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 16:05:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] mgb milage query, and webber carb. identity question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15694.1213283850.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15694.1213283850.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF396FAE@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

Eric,

	15 mpg with a DGV carb....  Assuming the car is tuned up
correctly, and the carb's the problem, you need to check and make sure
the power valve is not stuck open or has a bad diaphragm (leaking).

Good Luck, Skip '74 B

----------------------------------------------------------
Original Message
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:57:48 +0000
From: cyberemp at comcast.net
Subject: [Mgs] mgb milage query, and webber carb. identity question
To: mgs at autox.team.net (MG LIST)

salutations my MG brothers and sisters!!

my daily driver is a 65 MGB. 5 main engine with stock cam, running a
webber conversion and a four synchro trans.

My last fill up the milage was 15 mpg. I've checked the odometer against
highway markings, and it's accurate.
   My questions..
1. this seems really bad for the mgb. I thought the cars were typically
getting around 27 mpg.
2 is this the right rebuild kit for these carbs? >REBUILD KIT FOR WEBER
32/36 DFEV/DFAV<
 car has a fuel air mixture LED readout that always reads rich, so that
needs to be addressed after rebuild.

Now that I think of it, a full tune up is also in the future.
   other (polite) suggestions appreciated.

Eric.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 13 14:31:37 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:31:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear engine mountin
Message-ID: <229037.77534.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ed, this might help.....

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29015

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 1:29:55 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear engine mountin

Hello All,

Well, thanks to the folks on this list, the engine and overdrive 
transmission are back in my daughter's '72 MGB.  I have secured the front 
engine mounts, but have not yet fitted the rear X brace or the two metal 
brackets and rear mounts in its center. These two brackets are, of course, 
not symmetrical and I'm wondering which way round they should be fit. Rather 
than lie under the car, using the trial and error method, I thought I'd put 
the question to The List. I'm O.K. with the rear X member, hole toward the 
rear, speedo cable securing nut to the right, but how are the two metal 
bracket in the center supposed to go?

Thanks,

Ed Woods 
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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 13 14:15:15 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:15:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch slave bleeding
In-Reply-To: <000601c8cd8e$cb0e47e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <C4782363.1883C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

The clutch is a completely independent system. You did not affect it at all
by bleeding the brakes.

Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. It is entirely possible
that you may need to bleed the clutch system as well.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 6/13/08 12:50 PM, davewillner at dwillner at ptd.net wrote:

> When bleeding the brakes on a 70, is it also necessary to bleed the clutch's
> slave cylinder at the same time?  The clutch has about 13K miles on it and it.
> I did bleed the brakes correctly and centered the pressure switch and they
> seem to work real good, the brake check light switch had come on.  I didn't
> recognize any signficant difference in the clutch pedal other than it seems to
> be disengaging pretty close to the floor now, a little low I believe for a
> clutch kinda still somewhat new? Thanks
> 
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Jun 14 17:26:44 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:26:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Power Fade and Recover
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E0571DF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E0571DF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <485453B4.5060309@ktc.com>

  That happened to me, too, when I first had the head rebuilt with new 
valve guides.  It didn't happen until I took it on the highway after 
driving it around town for a hundred miles or so.  One exhaust valve 
guide was found to be on the low end of the clearance spec.  The valve 
didn't stick until the engine warmed up that extra bit on the highway. 
However, when mine stuck it stayed stuck and there was obviously a dead 
cylinder.  It was easy to find the dead cylinder by pulling spark plug 
wires when the problem occurred.

   When it happens, I'd pull over and start pulling wires, one at a time.

   FWIW,

   CR




Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> Robert:
> 
> Since you had head work done, I'd check for a sticking valve. If the
> valve guides are too tight, one of more valves could start hangine up as
> the engine warms up and the clearance gets tighter.
> 
> The symptom is similar to what you are describing and typically leads
> one to check fuel and ignition issues to no avail.
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Jun 14 17:44:20 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:44:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
In-Reply-To: <75792.19013.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <75792.19013.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <485457D4.3030203@ktc.com>

   Talking to the engine Guru and proprietor of the local NAPA store the 
other day.  Got to talking about oils for our old engines.  I mentioned 
that it looked like I had a choice between synthetic or Rotella for my 
'69 B.  He showed me some "motorcycle spec" oil for 4-stroke 
motorcycles.  Can't remember the brand but it's a racing oil that he 
says has the % of zinc additive we need.  It also comes in 20W-50 
multi-vis, which is what the GTX I've always run is.  Kind of expensive 
a@ ~$6 a quart but what ain't?

   Any comments?

   CR

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 14 18:11:40 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:11:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
In-Reply-To: <485457D4.3030203@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <691379.64480.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Just gete some Valvoline ZR1 in 20-50. It has enough Zinc and can be had at NAPA and Autozone. Rotella now has been reformulated and no longer has the zinc.
FWIW HTH
&nbsp;
Carl

--- On Sat, 6/14/08, Charles &amp; Peggy Robinson &lt;ccrobins at ktc.com&gt; wrote:

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 14 18:12:43 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:12:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
In-Reply-To: <485457D4.3030203@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <294396.52511.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Just gete some Valvoline ZR1 in 20-50. It has enough Zinc and can be had at NAPA and Autozone. Rotella now has been reformulated and no longer has the zinc.
FWIW HTH
&nbsp;
Carl

--- On Sat, 6/14/08, Charles &amp; Peggy Robinson &lt;ccrobins at ktc.com&gt; wrote:

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Sat Jun 14 18:21:24 2008
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 20:21:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
In-Reply-To: <485457D4.3030203@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFKELOCBAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Hello Everybody.

Castrol sells a four stroke motorcycle oil, labelled 4T, 20w/50, API SH, SG.

I found it at Pep Boys in 1 liter and 4 liter bottles, around $20 for the 5
liters.
There was nothing at local NAPA stores that was SH or SG rated.

Eric in Florida
Summer has arrived.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Charles & Peggy Robinson
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:44 PM
To: MGS
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines


   Talking to the engine Guru and proprietor of the local NAPA store the
other day.  Got to talking about oils for our old engines.  I mentioned
that it looked like I had a choice between synthetic or Rotella for my
'69 B.  He showed me some "motorcycle spec" oil for 4-stroke
motorcycles.  Can't remember the brand but it's a racing oil that he
says has the % of zinc additive we need.  It also comes in 20W-50
multi-vis, which is what the GTX I've always run is.  Kind of expensive
a@ ~$6 a quart but what ain't?

   Any comments?

   CR
You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive
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From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jun 14 19:57:19 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 19:57:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
References: <75792.19013.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<485457D4.3030203@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <00ff01c8ce8b$25829530$6801a8c0@shop>

<<It also comes in 20W-50 multi-vis, which is what the GTX I've always run is.>>

Charley, etal.

Castrol HAS NEW product slowly creeping into stores that DOES have the ZDDP levels out motors need.  Just read the bottle;  says something like "...for older/antigue vehicles ...re-formulated...".  Bottle does NOT (or so they said to begin with) "look" different.  My Machine Shop has it.  You can check this out on their site.

Ed

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Sat Jun 14 19:12:36 2008
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 21:12:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
In-Reply-To: <00ff01c8ce8b$25829530$6801a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFCEMACBAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

I believe that this is Castrol Syntech; their web site indicates that it is
appropriate for older engines but I did not find a disclosure of zinc and
phosphorus concentrations.


Given the fact that a small percentage of our cars leak a minute quantity of
oil, I would prefer less expensive mineral oil to more expensive synthetic
oil.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Ed's Shop
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 9:57 PM
To: MGS
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines


<<It also comes in 20W-50 multi-vis, which is what the GTX I've always run
is.>>

Charley, etal.

Castrol HAS NEW product slowly creeping into stores that DOES have the ZDDP
levels out motors need.  Just read the bottle;  says something like "...for
older/antigue vehicles ...re-formulated...".  Bottle does NOT (or so they
said to begin with) "look" different.  My Machine Shop has it.  You can
check this out on their site.

Ed
You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net


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http://www.team.net/archive
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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun 16 04:53:08 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 11:53:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch slave bleeding
References: <000601c8cd8e$cb0e47e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <009101c8cf9f$884d82f0$0200a8c0@Three>

A low biting point is usually caused by either air in the hydraulics or
mechanical wear in the linkages *up by the pedal*.  Note that mechanical wear
at the slave end, and that includes the push-rod, clevis, release arm, release
bearing, cover-plate and friction plate are all compensated for in the design
of the hydraulic system.

A worn clutch usually shows itself as a *high* biting point, then as slippage
in 4th gear, progressing to the lower gears as it worsens.

I've just done a clutch change on a friends car, and the slave cylinder
decided to pack-up during the rebuild so replaced that as well.  AFAIK I got
the correct part, but it is now significantly lighter than before or my own
roadster.  I also noticed that whereas the slave push-rod travel is usually
quoted as about 1/2" to 5/8", which is what I have measured on my own cars,
this is now more like 3/8".  But selection of reverse is silent so it is
obviously disengaging as it should.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ...  I didn't
  recognize any signficant difference in the clutch pedal other than it seems
to
  be disengaging pretty close to the floor now, a little low I believe for a
  clutch kinda still somewhat new?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun 16 04:57:57 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 11:57:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Power Fade and Recover
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E0571DF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<485453B4.5060309@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <009701c8cfa1$a22b7360$0200a8c0@Three>

I had that on a Midget just after a head change.  I'd oiled the guides and
stems before assembly, and checked oil supply from the rockers.  Proved it to
one cylinder, but all leads were flashing with a timing light as they should.
Swapped leads and plugs around but it stayed with the cylinder.  I even
clipped the timing light onto other plug leads and pointing it at the rockers
could 'freeze' them.  By using the variable control I could freeze them in any
position between fully up and fully down, and could see no difference on the
rockers for the affected cylinder and any other, which would appear to rule
out a sticking valve.  It only started happening when hot, but after a couple
of hours of investigation stopped, and didn't do it again.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
    That happened to me, too, when I first had the head rebuilt with new
  valve guides.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jun 16 07:32:49 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 23:02:49 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Collingrove Hillclimb (South Australia)
Message-ID: <678E2766-2B57-4D80-8D5E-F65FB4F1239B@erickson.on.net>

For those interested here are some photos taken at the Hillclimb part  
of our recent MG Challenge weekend.

http://www.freewebs.com/bobtee/apps/photos/album.jsp?albumID=1201896

Always a fun day in the country :-)

Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 16 09:33:51 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 08:33:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Collingrove Hillclimb (South Australia)
Message-ID: <687555.98225.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Great pics! Hope the fellow in the MGF was ok. I like the pic of the BGT getting some air! And the ricer wing on that B is, ummm, interesting.
Wonder if it really helps. Did you take video of your run?

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: MG list <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 9:32:49 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Collingrove Hillclimb (South Australia)

For those interested here are some photos taken at the Hillclimb part  
of our recent MG Challenge weekend.

http://www.freewebs.com/bobtee/apps/photos/album.jsp?albumID=1201896

Always a fun day in the country :-)

Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Mon Jun 16 10:01:20 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 11:01:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFCEMACBAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFCEMACBAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <48568E50.2090102@ktc.com>

  My MGB engine has Reddi-Sleeves on both ends of the crank and I 
glooped the hell out of the tappet cover gaskets, et al,  when I built 
it up, have been knocking my self out trying to stop the oil leaks over 
the last few years.  It still "marks its territory."   I'm afraid if I 
put synthetic oil in it, it will pour out as fast as I pour it in!  (G)

   CR




Eric Markley wrote:
> I believe that this is Castrol Syntech; their web site indicates that it is
> appropriate for older engines but I did not find a disclosure of zinc and
> phosphorus concentrations.
> 
> 
> Given the fact that a small percentage of our cars leak a minute quantity of
> oil, I would prefer less expensive mineral oil to more expensive synthetic
> oil.
> 
> Eric
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Ed's Shop
> Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 9:57 PM
> To: MGS
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
> 
> 
> <<It also comes in 20W-50 multi-vis, which is what the GTX I've always run
> is.>>
> 
> Charley, etal.
> 
> Castrol HAS NEW product slowly creeping into stores that DOES have the ZDDP
> levels out motors need.  Just read the bottle;  says something like "...for
> older/antigue vehicles ...re-formulated...".  Bottle does NOT (or so they
> said to begin with) "look" different.  My Machine Shop has it.  You can
> check this out on their site.
> 
> Ed
> You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1502 - Release Date: 6/13/2008
> 7:25 PM
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jun 16 10:18:02 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 01:48:02 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Collingrove Hillclimb (South Australia)
In-Reply-To: <687555.98225.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <687555.98225.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3CA908AB-D1C5-46D1-92C5-DE0E65738A0C@erickson.on.net>

On 17/06/2008, at 1:03 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Great pics! Hope the fellow in the MGF was ok. I like the pic of  
> the BGT getting some air! And the ricer wing on that B is, ummm,  
> interesting.
> Wonder if it really helps. Did you take video of your run?
>

I think the car (MGF) came out of it worse than the driver... but he  
was limping the next day.  I actually caught the crash on video when  
I left my camera running but it is wayyy in the distance - it was  
pretty spectacular.  He is still trying to work out why he suddenly  
turned RIGHT.  The tyre was off the rim but that probably happened  
when he hit the rocks (look at the picture and see some of those  
bloody great rocks under his car).  The car ended up down the bottom  
of the hill.

The wing on the 'B does work, it seems.  It is a V8 racer and it goes  
around the racetrack a darn sight faster than me :-)

As for video - well I was pretty disappointed to have BOTH of my  
cameras fail on me (I had one facing backwards and it would have  
looked great).  BUT, I did get my first run taped as I tried to work  
out just where the darn track went.  It gives you an idea of just how  
narrow it is - and even at my slightly reduced speed I can tell you  
it is more hectic than it looks with not one second to take a breather.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yld4O2MGkqo

Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From twobees at sprynet.com  Mon Jun 16 12:37:16 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:37:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs]  Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
Message-ID: <008101c8cfe0$0103cf70$66451645@normoffice>

We discussed this at a recent car club meeting.

I called Castrol & was told the distribution of their new Syntek is
progressing.  But, won't be throughout the U.S. until about Q4.

Mobil 1 has a chart at:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
Should prove helpful.

As for MGs "marking their territory," I have to say that on the engine that
Dave Headly built for me, I had no leaks for almost 2 years & then only
minor ones for the 4 years after that until I sold it.  It all comes from
careful preparation & assembly.

Norm Sippel

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Jun 16 13:24:40 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:24:40 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
Message-ID: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>

Dear listers,

As fuel prices are skyhigh now, I wonder if some of you ever tried the
following fuel economy improvements.

http://www.fuelfromh2o.com/


It should accomplish:



1)      Clean exhaust

2)      Extended kilometers (miles for most of you)

3)      Longer engine life

4)      Increased power (if you adjust your timing)

Cheers,



Hans



1971 BGT with 18GK engine in overhaul - expected to have it back on the road
in a few weeks

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 16 13:27:20 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 12:27:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] LHD Dr Side Engine Mount
Message-ID: <787622.67021.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I know we've been discussing this a bit the past week, and I'm now ready to tackle the subject. I'm a little confused on exactly what part(s)
of the steering shaft needs to be removed to get to the nut. Is it the upper section at the u-joint (yellow circle), or the lower section where the 
shaft enters the rack (red circle)? 

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/SteeringShaft.jpg

You know, if they had 'slotted' the engine mount instead of just putting a hole in it, it would be easier to simply unbolt the u-joint and drop
the shaft straight down... 

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Jun 16 13:32:11 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 15:32:11 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
Message-ID: <c56.38cd0726.358819bb@aol.com>

PT Barnum would love this.
 
TANSTAAFL!
 
There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
 
You use electrical energy to split the hydrogen from water. That energy  
comes from the engine driving your alternator - the more energy, the greater the  
load on the alternator.  You don't get 100% of that energy back from  burning 
the resulting hydrogen.  If you did, you'd have perpetual  motion....QED.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 6/16/2008 12:25:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  h.duinhov
en at planet.nl writes:

As fuel  prices are skyhigh now, I wonder if some of you ever tried the
following  fuel economy  improvements.

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Mon Jun 16 13:35:43 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:35:43 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
In-Reply-To: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
References: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806161235p344b7a5ag9456fb249a8c45e1@mail.gmail.com>

I'm hoping you posted this as something for us to laugh at...

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Jun 16 13:47:04 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:47:04 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
References: <c56.38cd0726.358819bb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01670C40195C42C496AD79DCF1B6D82F@uw471de61b465c>

This story does not tell, that this is the perpetu|m mobile.
Beware, that the normal engine will convert just 20% of the real energy 
value of the fuel energy content.
The offered solution claims, that this will make the engine 50% more 
efficient.
I.E. the nett converted energy from the fuel to the real force on the wheels 
goes from 20% to 30%, which still leaves some 70% of the fuel energy wasted 
by heat etc.

Cheers,

Hans



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <WSpohn4 at aol.com>
To: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen


> PT Barnum would love this.
>
> TANSTAAFL!
>
> There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
>
> You use electrical energy to split the hydrogen from water. That energy
> comes from the engine driving your alternator - the more energy, the 
> greater the
> load on the alternator.  You don't get 100% of that energy back from 
> burning
> the resulting hydrogen.  If you did, you'd have perpetual  motion....QED.
>
> Bill

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Jun 16 13:53:34 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:53:34 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
References: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
	<9f2527520806161235p344b7a5ag9456fb249a8c45e1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B1B5799A77824601AC90E3D4CC15A546@uw471de61b465c>

Some people are believers.
My direct collegue drives a direct U.S. import Chrysler 300C SRT  V8 running
on LPG - yes in the expensive Netherlands!
He first will try this stuff (a small version) on his moped.

Afterwards he wants to add this it to the 300C engine in order to gain better
fuel economy.
Looking to the website there are people claiming this works....

Looking for more people who laugh at it - I do not believe it as well.

Cheers,

Hans



I'm hoping you posted this as something for us to laugh at...

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 16 13:50:40 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 12:50:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
In-Reply-To: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <C47C1220.18913%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Oh boy. I guess it was only a matter of time before this stuff cropped up.

I like the claim that it provides hydrogen "on demand -- only as much as the
engine needs". A more accurate way of putting that would be, "provides a
negligable trickle of hydrogen at all times, with no discernable effect".




on 6/16/08 12:24 PM, Hans Duinhoven at h.duinhoven at planet.nl wrote:

> Dear listers,
> 
> As fuel prices are skyhigh now, I wonder if some of you ever tried the
> following fuel economy improvements.
> 
> http://www.fuelfromh2o.com/
> 
> 
> It should accomplish:
> 
> 
> 
> 1)      Clean exhaust
> 
> 2)      Extended kilometers (miles for most of you)
> 
> 3)      Longer engine life
> 
> 4)      Increased power (if you adjust your timing)
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> 
> Hans
> 
> 
> 
> 1971 BGT with 18GK engine in overhaul - expected to have it back on the road
> in a few weeks

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From jello at ida.net  Mon Jun 16 14:54:37 2008
From: jello at ida.net (jello at ida.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:54:37 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Test
Message-ID: <1509.209.180.80.45.1213649677.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

This is a test - transferring my e-mail account.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 16 15:05:14 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:05:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Collingrove Hillclimb (South Australia)
Message-ID: <907959.16253.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Very cool video, Eric - boy, that's a narrow track!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>; MG list <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 12:18:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Collingrove Hillclimb (South Australia)


On 17/06/2008, at 1:03 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Great pics! Hope the fellow in the MGF was ok. I like the pic of  
> the BGT getting some air! And the ricer wing on that B is, ummm,  
> interesting.
> Wonder if it really helps. Did you take video of your run?
>

I think the car (MGF) came out of it worse than the driver... but he  
was limping the next day.  I actually caught the crash on video when  
I left my camera running but it is wayyy in the distance - it was  
pretty spectacular.  He is still trying to work out why he suddenly  
turned RIGHT.  The tyre was off the rim but that probably happened  
when he hit the rocks (look at the picture and see some of those  
bloody great rocks under his car).  The car ended up down the bottom  
of the hill.

The wing on the 'B does work, it seems.  It is a V8 racer and it goes  
around the racetrack a darn sight faster than me :-)

As for video - well I was pretty disappointed to have BOTH of my  
cameras fail on me (I had one facing backwards and it would have  
looked great).  BUT, I did get my first run taped as I tried to work  
out just where the darn track went.  It gives you an idea of just how  
narrow it is - and even at my slightly reduced speed I can tell you  
it is more hectic than it looks with not one second to take a breather.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yld4O2MGkqo

Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Jun 16 16:33:53 2008
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:33:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
Message-ID: <4856EA51.9050704@snet.net>

Interesting but not cheap!!!

http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-electric-cars/

Mike
'79B

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Jun 16 17:04:27 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:04:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <4856EA51.9050704@snet.net>
References: <4856EA51.9050704@snet.net>
Message-ID: <B56BA135-A607-4798-A7EB-EAB6FCF5468C@gmail.com>

What a waste from the guy that yanked all the stock batteries from a  
Prius to replace with Lithium Ion.
Wonder what happened to all the batteries.

Might be fun do convert the B, after the engine it done. By that time,  
this technology should be a lot
cheaper.

On Jun 16, 2008, at 5:33 PM, Mike Janacek wrote:

> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>
> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-electric-cars/
>
> Mike
> '79B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 16 17:13:54 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:13:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <4856EA51.9050704@snet.net>
Message-ID: <C47C41C2.18931%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Someone around here has an electric Midget, converted over 10 years ago, I
think. Saved a lot of gas in that interim, I imagine. Zero trunk space, of
course.

This article made a good point about real-world performance. The electric
hot-rods like the Tesla get all the publicity, but a steel-bodied car
converted from gas with typical lead-acid batteries is going to perform like
"a 4-cylinder carrying 1600 lbs of batteries". Which is why that guy is
stripping everything off his MGB. Foolish, I think. Nobody is going to be
happy driving a totally stripped down vehicle except a few Lotus 7 types.
Better in the long term to shell out for the lithium batteries, and have a
better-performing car with adequate range that you could actually drive
everyday.

Then again, the range argument against electric cars is overrated. The
average American commute is less than 42 miles round trip. Almost all
electrics get that much. And for the foreseeable future, you would still
need a refuelable vehicle for long trips -- even 200 miles doesn't get you
very far in the American west, and you aren't going to want to stop for 8
hours to recharge after every leg.

While a $20K conversion may sound expensive, it's a lot cheaper than a new
Prius, and the MPG is infinite.

Just so long as they don't convert all the LBCs...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/16/08 3:33 PM, Mike Janacek at mjanacek at snet.net wrote:

> Interesting but not cheap!!!
> 
> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-el
> ectric-cars/
> 
> Mike
> '79B

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 16 17:16:59 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:16:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <B56BA135-A607-4798-A7EB-EAB6FCF5468C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C47C427B.18933%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I don't think the plug-in Prius conversions "yank" anything -- they just add
extra batteries to give it significantly more "battery-only" range, plus a
power inverter and charging system.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/16/08 4:04 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> What a waste from the guy that yanked all the stock batteries from a
> Prius to replace with Lithium Ion.
> Wonder what happened to all the batteries.
> 
> Might be fun do convert the B, after the engine it done. By that time,
> this technology should be a lot
> cheaper.
> 
> On Jun 16, 2008, at 5:33 PM, Mike Janacek wrote:
> 
>> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>> 
>> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-e
>> lectric-cars/
>> 
>> Mike
>> '79B

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Jun 16 17:44:29 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:44:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <C47C41C2.18931%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4856EA51.9050704@snet.net> <C47C41C2.18931%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10806161644j9ebbc57h8845084074432680@mail.gmail.com>

According to the Toyota website here in the US, a Prius starts at $21,500.
I wouldn't call $1500 a lot to go from a home built, most likely full of
problems car to a brand new fully sorted car with a warranty.
::: Shrug:::
Your mileage may vary.


On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 4:13 PM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>
>
> While a $20K conversion may sound expensive, it's a lot cheaper than a new
> Prius, and the MPG is infinite.
>
> Just so long as they don't convert all the LBCs...
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 6/16/08 3:33 PM, Mike Janacek at mjanacek at snet.net wrote:
>
> > Interesting but not cheap!!!
> >
> >
> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-el
> > ectric-cars/
> >
> > Mike
> > '79B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jun 16 17:52:40 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:52:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10806161644j9ebbc57h8845084074432680@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E057C7E@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I took a two day class on servicing the Prius and similar hybrids. I
came away with the conclusion that they are not motor cars.


They are robots with four wheels that you can ride in.





Not that it's a bad thing, you just can't think of them, or treat them
like regular cars.


Kelvin.





> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Richard Ewald
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 4:44 PM
> To: Max Heim
> Cc: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electric MGB
>
> According to the Toyota website here in the US, a Prius
> starts at $21,500.
> I wouldn't call $1500 a lot to go from a home built, most
> likely full of problems car to a brand new fully sorted car
> with a warranty.
> ::: Shrug:::
> Your mileage may vary.

From Thgun at comporium.net  Mon Jun 16 19:00:40 2008
From: Thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:00:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuses
Message-ID: <001001c8d015$8fed66d0$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9>

What fuses should I be using in my 1957 ,1500 ,rst? Who is a good source for
the correct fuses?
Thanks, Tom Gunderson

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Jun 16 20:22:22 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:22:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <C47C427B.18933%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C47C427B.18933%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <ECF6AF4A-2583-4764-B637-C3C3B9AE1C90@gmail.com>

The article I read on Autoweek replaces batteries with Lithium Ion.

On Jun 16, 2008, at 6:16 PM,  Max Heim wrote:

> I don't think the plug-in Prius conversions "yank" anything -- they  
> just add
> extra batteries to give it significantly more "battery-only" range,  
> plus a
> power inverter and charging system.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 6/16/08 4:04 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:
>
>> What a waste from the guy that yanked all the stock batteries from a
>> Prius to replace with Lithium Ion.
>> Wonder what happened to all the batteries.
>>
>> Might be fun do convert the B, after the engine it done. By that  
>> time,
>> this technology should be a lot
>> cheaper.
>>
>> On Jun 16, 2008, at 5:33 PM, Mike Janacek wrote:
>>
>>> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>>>
>>> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-e
>>> lectric-cars/
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> '79B

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 16 20:39:49 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 19:39:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10806161644j9ebbc57h8845084074432680@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C47C7205.1894F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Heh, try buying one at that price.

One, the dealers like to stock fully loaded touring editions; two, they have
been marking them up above list. There is a somewhat of a demand for
fuel-efficient cars, that may have escaped your notice...

But mainly, you still have to put gas in the Prius -- the "plug-in" Prius is
also a conversion.



on 6/16/08 4:44 PM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote:

> According to the Toyota website here in the US, a Prius starts at $21,500.
> I wouldn't call $1500 a lot to go from a home built, most likely full of
> problems car to a brand new fully sorted car with a warranty.
> ::: Shrug:::
> Your mileage may vary.
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 4:13 PM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> While a $20K conversion may sound expensive, it's a lot cheaper than a new
>> Prius, and the MPG is infinite.
>> 
>> Just so long as they don't convert all the LBCs...
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> on 6/16/08 3:33 PM, Mike Janacek at mjanacek at snet.net wrote:
>> 
>>> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-e>>
l
>>> ectric-cars/
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> '79B

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 16 20:44:17 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 19:44:17 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E057C7E@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C47C7311.18951%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Ha, I tend to think that about all contemporary cars. Traction control,
stability control, braking control, climate & lighting control, front and
rear sonar, motion-sensing self-adjusting cupholders...you might as well
drive them with a gamepad or the TV remote.



on 6/16/08 4:52 PM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote:

> I took a two day class on servicing the Prius and similar hybrids. I
> came away with the conclusion that they are not motor cars.
> 
> 
> They are robots with four wheels that you can ride in.
> 
> 
> Not that it's a bad thing, you just can't think of them, or treat them
> like regular cars.
> 
> 
> Kelvin.
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Richard Ewald
>> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 4:44 PM
>> To: Max Heim
>> Cc: MG List
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electric MGB
>> 
>> According to the Toyota website here in the US, a Prius
>> starts at $21,500.
>> I wouldn't call $1500 a lot to go from a home built, most
>> likely full of problems car to a brand new fully sorted car
>> with a warranty.
>> ::: Shrug:::
>> Your mileage may vary.

-- 

==========================
Max
1967 Fastback
Johnny Lightning Muscle Cars USA #14
273 Commando
Factory disc brakes
Mountain View, CA

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 16 20:52:38 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 19:52:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <ECF6AF4A-2583-4764-B637-C3C3B9AE1C90@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C47C7506.18959%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Oh, OK. I guess that makes sense. This article didn't say. I bet there is a
market for the barely-used battery packs.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 6/16/08 7:22 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> The article I read on Autoweek replaces batteries with Lithium Ion.
> 
> On Jun 16, 2008, at 6:16 PM,  Max Heim wrote:
> 
>> I don't think the plug-in Prius conversions "yank" anything -- they
>> just add
>> extra batteries to give it significantly more "battery-only" range,
>> plus a
>> power inverter and charging system.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> on 6/16/08 4:04 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>>> What a waste from the guy that yanked all the stock batteries from a
>>> Prius to replace with Lithium Ion.
>>> Wonder what happened to all the batteries.
>>> 
>>> Might be fun do convert the B, after the engine it done. By that
>>> time,
>>> this technology should be a lot
>>> cheaper.
>>> 
>>> On Jun 16, 2008, at 5:33 PM, Mike Janacek wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>>>> 
>>>> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales
>>>> -e
>>>> lectric-cars/
>>>> 
>>>> Mike
>>>> '79B

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Mon Jun 16 21:08:06 2008
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 13:08:06 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <C47C7205.1894F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <a3b984e10806161644j9ebbc57h8845084074432680@mail.gmail.com>
	<C47C7205.1894F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001501c8d027$5e995c30$1bcc1490$@com.au>

Try driving one...... Mind numbingly boring.... Add to that a decent 1.3
turbo diesel will deliver the same overall mileage with better performance.
Also the one question no one seems to be able to answer.... What happens to
the batteries when they are shot?  What is the effect on the environment of
disposing of them?

Murray Arundell
Brisbane Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max
Heim
Sent: Tuesday, 17 June 2008 12:40 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electric MGB

Heh, try buying one at that price.

One, the dealers like to stock fully loaded touring editions; two, they have
been marking them up above list. There is a somewhat of a demand for
fuel-efficient cars, that may have escaped your notice...

But mainly, you still have to put gas in the Prius -- the "plug-in" Prius is
also a conversion.



on 6/16/08 4:44 PM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote:

> According to the Toyota website here in the US, a Prius starts at $21,500.
> I wouldn't call $1500 a lot to go from a home built, most likely full of
> problems car to a brand new fully sorted car with a warranty.
> ::: Shrug:::
> Your mileage may vary.
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 4:13 PM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> While a $20K conversion may sound expensive, it's a lot cheaper than a
new
>> Prius, and the MPG is infinite.
>> 
>> Just so long as they don't convert all the LBCs...
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> on 6/16/08 3:33 PM, Mike Janacek at mjanacek at snet.net wrote:
>> 
>>> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-
e>>
l
>>> ectric-cars/
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> '79B

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
You are subscribed as arundell at ghs.com.au


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Jun 16 23:11:16 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 00:11:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuses
In-Reply-To: <001001c8d015$8fed66d0$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9>
References: <001001c8d015$8fed66d0$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9>
Message-ID: <20080617055412.5B55D18766D@autox.team.net>

At 09:00 PM 6/16/2008 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>What fuses should I be using in my 1957 ,1500 ,rst? Who is a good source for
>the correct fuses?
>....

See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et102.htm
Top fuse feeding the green wires should be the 35/17 fuse.
Bottom fuse for the horn only should be the 50/25 fuse.

As far as I know, there is no current source for the "correct" Lucas 
slow blow fuses.  A reasonable substitute for the 35/17 would be a 
standard 20 amp fuse.    A reasonable substitute for the 50/25 would 
be a standard 30 amp fuse.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Jun 16 23:36:38 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 00:36:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
In-Reply-To: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
References: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <20080617055412.B0D64187671@autox.team.net>

At 09:24 PM 6/16/2008 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>....
>.... I wonder if some of you ever tried the following fuel economy 
>improvements.
>
>http://www.fuelfromh2o.com
>....

It was almost fun wasting my time on this one.

7 amps at 12 volts is 84 watts, or 0.11 HP or electrical energy being 
consumed by the "brick".  That electrical energy is splitting 
hydrogen and oxygen from water.  When the Hydrogen and Oxygen are 
recombined by burning you get back 0.11 HP worth of heat (assuming 
100% reversible conversion efficiency).

If the alternator is 80% efficient it is consuming 0.14 HP from the 
V-belt drive.  If the engine is 25% efficient it might produce 0.03 
HP from the hydrogen gas.  Net energy conversion efficiency is 20%, 
or 80% loss of energy in the process.  The net energy output from the 
hydrogen might just about run the auxillury water pump, so the 
increased load on the alternator is a total loss.

Does it not seem funny to anyone else that the engine in the video 
was consuming more than 2 gallons of fuel per hour when idling, at 
the same time it was blowing black soot out the tail pipe?  A stock 
MG will consume about that much fuel at a steady 60 mph cruise speed 
around 3500 rpm.  I suggest the first test was done on full choke, 
while the second test was done without choke after the engine warmed up.

No cigar for that bloke.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jun 17 01:28:55 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 08:28:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] LHD Dr Side Engine Mount
References: <787622.67021.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <013b01c8d04d$cbd963a0$0200a8c0@Three>

It's easiest to pull the whole rack.  Undo just the bottom joint on the UJ,
the rack shaft should have just a location notch (not a groove all the way
round like the column shaft) so it only goes back in the same position it
comes out.  If you haven't got a scissors-type taper cracker to remove the
track-rod ends from the steering arms then remove the steering arms from the
hub instead.  When removing the four bolts attaching the rack casing to the
cross-member look carefully for any shims and make sure they go back exactly
where you found them.  If you upset the alignment you get premature wear and
possibly breakage of the UJ and pinion bearing.  When you are ready to pull
the rack if it doesn't slide out of the UJ, even with something wedged in the
slot in the UJ, then have someone pull on the rack casing while you tap the
bottom of the UJ up towards the steering wheel.  When reinserting the shaft to
the UJ as I say it only goes in in one position or you won't be able to get
the bolt through, count the splines that are cut through by the notch either
side of the split in the UJ to make sure it is correctly inserted before
driving it in all the way.  If it is tight use a block between the top of the
UJ and the bulkhead as a buffer and tap the bottom of the casting using a
block of wood as a shock absorber.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ... I'm a little confused on exactly what part(s)
  of the steering shaft needs to be removed to get to the nut.

From derek at vandivere.net  Tue Jun 17 02:56:48 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 10:56:48 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
In-Reply-To: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
References: <9ABBD2D605984D3F8C9129C0012E2281@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <36851.193.173.12.30.1213693008.squirrel@vandivere.net>

Well, I've discovered a pretty cool way to cut down on the amount of
diesel my Saab's been using.

Stepped out of the house this morning to hop in for the drive to work and
discovered that someone's stolen the rear wheels off the car! And this is
in the center of Amsterdam - they pulled up a few bricks out of the street
to prop up the axles. Guess they were carrying a jack with them.

Turns out there's another Saab missing its wheels a few streets away...

> Dear listers,
>
> As fuel prices are skyhigh now, I wonder if some of you ever tried the
> following fuel economy improvements.
>
> http://www.fuelfromh2o.com/
>
>
> It should accomplish:
>
>
>
> 1)      Clean exhaust
>
> 2)      Extended kilometers (miles for most of you)
>
> 3)      Longer engine life
>
> 4)      Increased power (if you adjust your timing)
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Hans
>
>
>
> 1971 BGT with 18GK engine in overhaul - expected to have it back on the
> road
> in a few weeks
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as derek at vandivere.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Jun 17 04:54:51 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 05:54:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <C47C7506.18959%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C47C7506.18959%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <46E889F8-C05C-49C6-A646-6B5F41CD9DF3@gmail.com>

Prius owners have been proud to say that no battery packs have had to  
be replaced
on any Prius.

I have a hard time believing that, but whatever.

Here's the Autoweek article.
http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080616/FREE/422139597/1530/FREE

On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:52 PM, Max Heim wrote:

> Oh, OK. I guess that makes sense. This article didn't say. I bet  
> there is a
> market for the barely-used battery packs.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
> on 6/16/08 7:22 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:
>
>> The article I read on Autoweek replaces batteries with Lithium Ion.
>>
>> On Jun 16, 2008, at 6:16 PM,  Max Heim wrote:
>>
>>> I don't think the plug-in Prius conversions "yank" anything -- they
>>> just add
>>> extra batteries to give it significantly more "battery-only" range,
>>> plus a
>>> power inverter and charging system.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Max Heim
>>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>>
>>>
>>> on 6/16/08 4:04 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> What a waste from the guy that yanked all the stock batteries  
>>>> from a
>>>> Prius to replace with Lithium Ion.
>>>> Wonder what happened to all the batteries.
>>>>
>>>> Might be fun do convert the B, after the engine it done. By that
>>>> time,
>>>> this technology should be a lot
>>>> cheaper.
>>>>
>>>> On Jun 16, 2008, at 5:33 PM, Mike Janacek wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales
>>>>> -e
>>>>> lectric-cars/
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> '79B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 17 05:45:57 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:45:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
Message-ID: <213051.2257.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

LOL, must be an MG driving around on nice Saab wheels!!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "derek at vandivere.net" <derek at vandivere.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:56:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen

Well, I've discovered a pretty cool way to cut down on the amount of
diesel my Saab's been using.

Stepped out of the house this morning to hop in for the drive to work and
discovered that someone's stolen the rear wheels off the car! And this is
in the center of Amsterdam - they pulled up a few bricks out of the street
to prop up the axles. Guess they were carrying a jack with them.

Turns out there's another Saab missing its wheels a few streets away...

> Dear listers,
>
> As fuel prices are skyhigh now, I wonder if some of you ever tried the
> following fuel economy improvements.
>
> http://www.fuelfromh2o.com/
>
>
> It should accomplish:
>
>
>
> 1)      Clean exhaust
>
> 2)      Extended kilometers (miles for most of you)
>
> 3)      Longer engine life
>
> 4)      Increased power (if you adjust your timing)
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Hans
>
>
>
> 1971 BGT with 18GK engine in overhaul - expected to have it back on the
> road
> in a few weeks
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as derek at vandivere.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun 17 06:53:20 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 07:53:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil for Flat-Tappet Engines
In-Reply-To: <008101c8cfe0$0103cf70$66451645@normoffice>
References: <008101c8cfe0$0103cf70$66451645@normoffice>
Message-ID: <4857B3C0.8030006@ktc.com>

   Thanks for the link.  Thanks also for your confidence in my 
engine-building ability.

   CR


Norm 2Bs wrote:

> As for MGs "marking their territory," I have to say that on the engine 
> that Dave Headly built for me, I had no leaks for almost 2 years & then 
> only minor ones for the 4 years after that until I sold it.  It all 
> comes from careful preparation & assembly.
>  
> Norm Sippel

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue Jun 17 06:55:22 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 07:55:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>

Well, while we have the hydrogen discussion.........................
I've been thinking for a while about makeing my own methane using a digester
and the ample cow manure we  have here in the midwest.
There's an article in the MOther Earth News back in the 70's about a guy in
Europe who did this and easily converted a carburated car to run methane
with a simple hose from an LP tank and a valve to start the flow located on
his steering column. I probably would try the process out on an old 90 Chevy
that I use around the "farm" before I went any farther. The digester can be
made (supposedly) from a large container with a water, hay, manure mix in it
and another container that fits tightly upside down inside the first and a
stopcock on the top to let air out until the methane displaces it.
We recently spent two months in China, and I'd read about Chinese farmers
using this process and a simple inner tube holding the methane on top of
their small tractor. Used a brick to  create the  few pounds of pressure
needed to deliver it to the carb. Unfortunately, I didn't see anything
resembling this in our travels throughout China.

I'm looking for someone with more info about this process; can anyone put me
in contact with someone?
Monte

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 17 07:28:58 2008
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 06:28:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
In-Reply-To: <B1B5799A77824601AC90E3D4CC15A546@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <468412.98899.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm waiting for John Galt's motor that runs off the Earth's
magnetic field.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From derek at vandivere.net  Tue Jun 17 07:33:32 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 15:33:32 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <39459.193.173.12.30.1213709612.squirrel@vandivere.net>

My first thought on seeing the subject line: Well, I *did* have lentils
for dinner last night.

Update: Apparently, there's been a rash of theft of Saab wheels in
Amsterdam lately. Weird.

Derek

From randell_kegg at msn.com  Tue Jun 17 09:03:59 2008
From: randell_kegg at msn.com (RANDELL KEGG)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:03:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuses
In-Reply-To: <20080617055412.5B55D18766D@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY102-F386B401263F1AFC73A6E5AE8A80@phx.gbl>

Barney,
I believe that you can purchase the 35/17 fuses from The Roadster Factory.

Randy Kegg



>From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
>To: "Tom Gunderson" <Thgun at comporium.net>,<mgs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA fuses
>Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 00:11:16 -0500
>
>At 09:00 PM 6/16/2008 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
> >What fuses should I be using in my 1957 ,1500 ,rst? Who is a good source 
>for
> >the correct fuses?
> >....
>
>See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et102.htm
>Top fuse feeding the green wires should be the 35/17 fuse.
>Bottom fuse for the horn only should be the 50/25 fuse.
>
>As far as I know, there is no current source for the "correct" Lucas
>slow blow fuses.  A reasonable substitute for the 35/17 would be a
>standard 20 amp fuse.    A reasonable substitute for the 50/25 would
>be a standard 30 amp fuse.
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
>http://MGAguru.com
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as randell_kegg at msn.com
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun 17 10:07:07 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:07:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <C47C41C2.18931%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C47C41C2.18931%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4857E12B.7060801@ktc.com>

  Not "a lot" cheaper.  Prius starts at ~$23K.  I have one and it's 
worth every nickel.  If I had to part with the B or the P, the B would 
be gone.

   The mpg on a plug in electric is not infinite; you still have to pay 
for the electric power to recharge it and batteries don't last forever.

   CR


Max Heim wrote:
>
> 
> While a $20K conversion may sound expensive, it's a lot cheaper than a new
> Prius, and the MPG is infinite.
> 
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun 17 10:17:28 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:17:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <001501c8d027$5e995c30$1bcc1490$@com.au>
References: <a3b984e10806161644j9ebbc57h8845084074432680@mail.gmail.com>
	<C47C7205.1894F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<001501c8d027$5e995c30$1bcc1490$@com.au>
Message-ID: <4857E398.7060208@ktc.com>

  I have a Prius.  It's a great road car and will outrun a stock B and 
do it in comfort.  It's questionable about the turbo diesel doing better 
on mpg; my Prius gets 45 - 50 mpg overall, including cruising on the 
road at 75 mph and it does it a lot cleaner than the diesel.

   As far as disposing of the batteries goes, you recycle them, the same 
way any responsible citizen does with any battery.

   CR




Murray Arundell wrote:
> Try driving one...... Mind numbingly boring.... Add to that a decent 1.3
> turbo diesel will deliver the same overall mileage with better performance.
> Also the one question no one seems to be able to answer.... What happens to
> the batteries when they are shot?  What is the effect on the environment of
> disposing of them?
> 
> Murray Arundell
> Brisbane Australia
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max
> Heim
> Sent: Tuesday, 17 June 2008 12:40 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electric MGB
> 
> Heh, try buying one at that price.
> 
> One, the dealers like to stock fully loaded touring editions; two, they have
> been marking them up above list. There is a somewhat of a demand for
> fuel-efficient cars, that may have escaped your notice...
> 
> But mainly, you still have to put gas in the Prius -- the "plug-in" Prius is
> also a conversion.
> 
> 
> 
> on 6/16/08 4:44 PM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote:
> 
>> According to the Toyota website here in the US, a Prius starts at $21,500.
>> I wouldn't call $1500 a lot to go from a home built, most likely full of
>> problems car to a brand new fully sorted car with a warranty.
>> ::: Shrug:::
>> Your mileage may vary.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 4:13 PM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> While a $20K conversion may sound expensive, it's a lot cheaper than a
> new
>>> Prius, and the MPG is infinite.
>>>
>>> Just so long as they don't convert all the LBCs...
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Max Heim
>>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>>
>>>
>>> on 6/16/08 3:33 PM, Mike Janacek at mjanacek at snet.net wrote:
>>>
>>>> Interesting but not cheap!!!
>>>>
>>>>
> http://www2.tbo.com/content/2008/jun/16/soaring-gasoline-prices-power-sales-
> e>>
> l
>>>> ectric-cars/
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> '79B
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> You are subscribed as arundell at ghs.com.au
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun 17 10:22:28 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:22:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <46E889F8-C05C-49C6-A646-6B5F41CD9DF3@gmail.com>
References: <C47C7506.18959%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<46E889F8-C05C-49C6-A646-6B5F41CD9DF3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4857E4C4.1010806@ktc.com>

  You're right to doubt it.  There have been a few battery failures; not 
many if you discount collision damage.  I'm on a few Prius groups. 
There have been a few battery failures, mostly replaced under warranty. 
  I still have 60K miles to go on the hybrid system warranty.

   CR


Paul Root wrote:
> Prius owners have been proud to say that no battery packs have had to  
> be replaced
> on any Prius.
> 
> I have a hard time believing that, but whatever.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun 17 10:26:56 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:26:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4857E5D0.508@ktc.com>

I'm wondering what the exhaust would smell like if you ran it on methane 
from manure!  Whew!  (G)


   CR

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Jun 17 11:03:49 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 13:03:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <mailman.16163.1213719421.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF03540428.CC155285-ON8525746B.005D40B4-8525746B.005DBC3C@exxonmobil.com>

Diesel has more energy in it per volume than gas so it will give you better
mpg.  My '90 VW Jetta 1.8 L turbo diesel  gets over 60 mpg on the highway,
and around 55 mpg in town.  And modern diesels are as clean as gas engines.

Mark

From: Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electric MGB

  I have a Prius.  It's a great road car and will outrun a stock B and do
it in comfort.  It's questionable about the turbo diesel doing better on
mpg; my Prius gets 45 - 50 mpg overall, including cruising on the road at
75 mph and it does it a lot cleaner than the diesel.

   As far as disposing of the batteries goes, you recycle them, the same
way any responsible citizen does with any battery.

   CR

Murray Arundell wrote:
> Try driving one...... Mind numbingly boring.... Add to that a decent 1.3
turbo diesel will deliver the same overall mileage with better performance.
Also the one question no one seems to be able to answer.... What happens to
> the batteries when they are shot?  What is the effect on the environment
of disposing of them?
>
> Murray Arundell
> Brisbane Australia

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Jun 17 11:07:45 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 13:07:45 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting
References: <20080410.124110.1260.8.MGBOB@juno.com><00a401c89baf$33591f80$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001f01c8cd7b$18df7bb0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <005801c8d09c$a9e51f60$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Hello again,

The question this time is: is there supposed to be a fan spacer between the 
water pump pulley and the fan on a '72 MGB with the 18V engine? It uses the 
six bladed metal fan.

The length of the four bolts that secure the fan indicate that there's a 
spacer required, but I've torn the place apart and cannot find one.

Thanks,

Ed Woods 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 17 11:27:23 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 10:27:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting
Message-ID: <72120.6405.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ed. my '76 uses one, and the Moss catalog states - RD from (c)306257 to 410000 GT from (c)309326 on.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 1:07:45 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting

Hello again,

The question this time is: is there supposed to be a fan spacer between the 
water pump pulley and the fan on a '72 MGB with the 18V engine? It uses the 
six bladed metal fan.

The length of the four bolts that secure the fan indicate that there's a 
spacer required, but I've torn the place apart and cannot find one.

Thanks,

Ed Woods 
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jun 17 11:38:37 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 10:38:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting
In-Reply-To: <005801c8d09c$a9e51f60$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E057D86@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Ed:

If you are running the short 18V style water pump and the metal 6 bladed
fan, then there was a spacer used. It's a very rare bird, as the plastic
fan came out pretty soon after the 18V was adopted. The plastic fan uses
a different spacer.


The earlier spacer was set up with the 2 3/8" bolt pattern used on the
steel fan. The later spacer (434-375-12H4277) has the 1 3/4" pattern as
used on the plastic fan.

Check the fan to radiator clearance, if you find you do want to use a
spacer and can't find the original, Moss does supply them for use with
their supercharger kit which uses the short water pump on all the early
engines. The part number is 771-715 and it retails for $29.95. It does
have to be transferred from the manufacturing warehouse, so expect a one
day delay.

Either that or find someone that installed a 68-74 supercharger kit on a
73-74 car. They will not have used the spacer supplied in the kit.






Kelvin



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Ed Woods
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 10:08 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting
>
> Hello again,
>
> The question this time is: is there supposed to be a fan
> spacer between the water pump pulley and the fan on a '72 MGB
> with the 18V engine? It uses the six bladed metal fan.
>
> The length of the four bolts that secure the fan indicate
> that there's a spacer required, but I've torn the place apart
> and cannot find one.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Woods

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue Jun 17 12:36:41 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:36:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <C47C41C2.18931%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4856EA51.9050704@snet.net> <C47C41C2.18931%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200806171136o476ea372x99b8739776c3caa1@mail.gmail.com>

Some 10 years ago, I saw an electric MGA at the MG show in Jack London
Square (Oakland, CA).

Regards,
Simon

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 4:13 PM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Someone around here has an electric Midget, converted over 10 years ago, I
> think. Saved a lot of gas in that interim, I imagine. Zero trunk space, of
> course.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 17 15:45:06 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 14:45:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <4857E12B.7060801@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <C47D7E72.189C5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

What I meant was, zero gallons of gasoline are consumed over any amount of
miles travelled (this,as a direct comparison to a hybrid). I didn't say it
was free. Duh. Obviously, there is a price to be paid somewhere.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 6/17/08 9:07 AM, Charles & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins at ktc.com wrote:

>   Not "a lot" cheaper.  Prius starts at ~$23K.  I have one and it's
> worth every nickel.  If I had to part with the B or the P, the B would
> be gone.
> 
>    The mpg on a plug in electric is not infinite; you still have to pay
> for the electric power to recharge it and batteries don't last forever.
> 
>    CR
> 
> 
> Max Heim wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> While a $20K conversion may sound expensive, it's a lot cheaper than a new
>> Prius, and the MPG is infinite.
>> 
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 17 15:49:41 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 14:49:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <OF03540428.CC155285-ON8525746B.005D40B4-8525746B.005DBC3C@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <C47D7F85.189C7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

"As clean as" is debatable. Diesels still produce more particulate. And the
cleanest diesel technology is not available in the US because US diesel
contains too much sulfur. The solution to this is apparently urea injection
(and you thought methane was bad?), but I believe this is still in the EPA
approval process.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/17/08 10:03 AM, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com at mark.jones at exxonmobil.com
wrote:

> Diesel has more energy in it per volume than gas so it will give you better
> mpg.  My '90 VW Jetta 1.8 L turbo diesel  gets over 60 mpg on the highway,
> and around 55 mpg in town.  And modern diesels are as clean as gas engines.
> 
> Mark
> 
> From: Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electric MGB
> 
>   I have a Prius.  It's a great road car and will outrun a stock B and do
> it in comfort.  It's questionable about the turbo diesel doing better on
> mpg; my Prius gets 45 - 50 mpg overall, including cruising on the road at
> 75 mph and it does it a lot cleaner than the diesel.
> 
>    As far as disposing of the batteries goes, you recycle them, the same
> way any responsible citizen does with any battery.
> 
>    CR
> 
> Murray Arundell wrote:
>> Try driving one...... Mind numbingly boring.... Add to that a decent 1.3
> turbo diesel will deliver the same overall mileage with better performance.
> Also the one question no one seems to be able to answer.... What happens to
>> the batteries when they are shot?  What is the effect on the environment
> of disposing of them?
>> 
>> Murray Arundell
>> Brisbane Australia

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 17 16:10:26 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 15:10:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C47D8462.189CE%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

PG&E has annnounced some co-generation plants in California powered by "cow
methane". Don't think they are considering vehicular applications, though.


on 6/17/08 5:55 AM, Monte/Jane Morris at montejane at gmail.com wrote:

> Well, while we have the hydrogen discussion.........................
> I've been thinking for a while about makeing my own methane using a digester
> and the ample cow manure we  have here in the midwest.
> There's an article in the MOther Earth News back in the 70's about a guy in
> Europe who did this and easily converted a carburated car to run methane
> with a simple hose from an LP tank and a valve to start the flow located on
> his steering column. I probably would try the process out on an old 90 Chevy
> that I use around the "farm" before I went any farther. The digester can be
> made (supposedly) from a large container with a water, hay, manure mix in it
> and another container that fits tightly upside down inside the first and a
> stopcock on the top to let air out until the methane displaces it.
> We recently spent two months in China, and I'd read about Chinese farmers
> using this process and a simple inner tube holding the methane on top of
> their small tractor. Used a brick to  create the  few pounds of pressure
> needed to deliver it to the carb. Unfortunately, I didn't see anything
> resembling this in our travels throughout China.
> 
> I'm looking for someone with more info about this process; can anyone put me
> in contact with someone?
> Monte

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun 17 17:49:56 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 17:49:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuses
References: <BAY102-F386B401263F1AFC73A6E5AE8A80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004901c8d0d4$d8ef1350$6801a8c0@shop>

<<I believe that you can purchase the 35/17 fuses from>>

Me !!<G>

Ed
Please visit my site at:   www.justbrits.com

From degraff at erols.com  Tue Jun 17 17:04:43 2008
From: degraff at erols.com (Elliott and Martha DeGraff)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 19:04:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <4857E398.7060208@ktc.com>
References: <a3b984e10806161644j9ebbc57h8845084074432680@mail.gmail.com>
	<C47C7205.1894F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<001501c8d027$5e995c30$1bcc1490$@com.au> <4857E398.7060208@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <4858430B.80706@erols.com>

We have 3 Geo Metros - a 94 2 door hatchback, a 93 4 door hatchback and 
a 91 convertible.  We paid $1100 for the 94 3 1/2 years and 60 k miles 
ago, $950 for the 93 last year and $350 for the convertible 2 years ago. 
   We get 45 mpg on the 93 and the convertible and 40 on the 93.  We're 
quite happy with our recycled cars.

Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>   I have a Prius.  It's a great road car and will outrun a stock B and 
> do it in comfort.  It's questionable about the turbo diesel doing better 
> on mpg; my Prius gets 45 - 50 mpg overall, including cruising on the 
> road at 75 mph and it does it a lot cleaner than the diesel.
> 
>    As far as disposing of the batteries goes, you recycle them, the same 
> way any responsible citizen does with any battery.
> 
>    CR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Murray Arundell wrote:
>> Try driving one...... Mind numbingly boring.... Add to that a decent 1.3
>> turbo diesel will deliver the same overall mileage with better performance.
>> Also the one question no one seems to be able to answer.... What happens to
>> the batteries when they are shot?  What is the effect on the environment of
>> disposing of them?
>>
>> Murray Arundell
>> Brisbane Australia

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 17 17:16:38 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 16:16:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <4858430B.80706@erols.com>
Message-ID: <C47D93E6.189F0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Quite a stable. My wife has had a '95 Metro hatchback since '00, and has put
almost 70K miles on it. Good little car. Built no better than it had to be,
but the designers were remarkably perceptive as to where to draw that line.

LBC content: Most LBCs weren't quite as successful pushing that envelope --
they seem to be a combination of certain parts that last forever and are
grossly overbuilt, with others that are a constant source of problems.
Probably stemming from having to pull so many parts out of the BMC "grab
bag", which were not necessarily optimized to the particular application.

BTW, a local news article recently stated that used economy hatchbacks were
suddenly a hot item, and were climbing in value on the used car market.
Uh-huh.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/17/08 4:04 PM, Elliott and Martha DeGraff at degraff at erols.com wrote:

> We have 3 Geo Metros - a 94 2 door hatchback, a 93 4 door hatchback and
> a 91 convertible.  We paid $1100 for the 94 3 1/2 years and 60 k miles
> ago, $950 for the 93 last year and $350 for the convertible 2 years ago.
>    We get 45 mpg on the 93 and the convertible and 40 on the 93.  We're
> quite happy with our recycled cars.
> 
> Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>>   I have a Prius.  It's a great road car and will outrun a stock B and
>> do it in comfort.  It's questionable about the turbo diesel doing better
>> on mpg; my Prius gets 45 - 50 mpg overall, including cruising on the
>> road at 75 mph and it does it a lot cleaner than the diesel.
>> 
>>    As far as disposing of the batteries goes, you recycle them, the same
>> way any responsible citizen does with any battery.
>> 
>>    CR
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Murray Arundell wrote:
>>> Try driving one...... Mind numbingly boring.... Add to that a decent 1.3
>>> turbo diesel will deliver the same overall mileage with better performance.
>>> Also the one question no one seems to be able to answer.... What happens to
>>> the batteries when they are shot?  What is the effect on the environment of
>>> disposing of them?
>>> 
>>> Murray Arundell
>>> Brisbane Australia

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun 17 19:50:58 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 19:50:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
References: <C47D93E6.189F0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007a01c8d0e5$c22d5c60$6801a8c0@shop>

<<BTW, a local news article recently stated that used economy hatchbacks were
suddenly a hot item, and were climbing in value on the used car market.>>

Absolutly an ASTUTE conclusion on the writer's research, 
me thinks Max !!!  Wonder why???

LOL

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun 17 21:16:43 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:16:43 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] "The Bombs"...
Message-ID: <01d801c8d0f1$c43d8140$6801a8c0@shop>

is an episode of "Livin' the Low Life" on Speed TV !!

You will NOT believe how TRUE TO original, but "adapted to Low Ride", the early American Iron these folks have re-stored !!!!

UN-REAL !!!  I mean BEAUTIFUL cars with their only "drawback" being that HIDDEN from "view" is the fact that these cars ARE "Low Riders"
(which 99.9% of the time I abhor<G>)!!!!!

It is SO worth watching!!!  These folks are making LBCdom look "lean"!!

UN-BELIEVABLE !!!

From thgun at comporium.net  Wed Jun 18 04:49:14 2008
From: thgun at comporium.net (thgun at comporium.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 06:49:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MAG electrical
Message-ID: <20080618064914.BTK20324@ms1.comporium.net>

I drove my 57 MAG 1500 rest to work today. Radio disconnected, started fine, flashers brite and good headlights. I drove 12 miles. Still running good. The flashers stopped working and the horn will not work. I shut the engine off and tried to restart. The batt was down and would not turn the engine over. I had replaced the bat back in late March. The ignition light stays on  while the engine is running. Monday I had to bump the car off down hill to get it started. 
 Any ideas on what to check or replace?
Thanks,
Tom Gunderson 

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Wed Jun 18 04:57:09 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:57:09 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MAG electrical
In-Reply-To: <20080618064914.BTK20324@ms1.comporium.net>
References: <20080618064914.BTK20324@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806180357i2a3befb4t4d4c8311cfcd9180@mail.gmail.com>

Dead or faulty dynamo (or dodgy connection to dynamo)

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun 18 06:47:11 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 13:47:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MAG electrical
References: <20080618064914.BTK20324@ms1.comporium.net>
Message-ID: <018e01c8d142$74e4fd70$0200a8c0@Three>

Not charging, then, that is what the ignition light being on while the engine
is running is telling you.  As Richard has said it could be connections or
dynamo (I assume), or control box.

Check all the connections to the control-box are clean and tight.

You can check the dynamo by disconnecting the wires from it, linking the two
terminals, and connecting a voltmeter between that link and an earth/ground.
Start the engine (needs a half-decent battery of course, get this charged
before you start) and *slowly* increase the engine revs while watching the
voltmeter carefully.  Do not allow the voltmeter to exceed 20v, and it should
reach this by 1000rpm.  If the voltmeter only gets as high as 0.5-1v the field
winding may be faulty.  If it reads 4-5v the armature windings may be faulty,
the brushes sticking or worn, or the commutator so worn that the insulators
are above the segments.  If you get the correct voltage from the dynamo it
looks like control-box or connections.

See here how to bench-test the control-box
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et121.htm

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ... The ignition light stays on  while the engine is running. Monday I had
to bump the car off down hill to get it started.

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jun 18 06:32:32 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 08:32:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting
Message-ID: <20080618.090121.3956.5.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Hi Ed,
    Kelvin gave you the answer you need, but there can be a bit more to
the story----
    It's possible to do some mix&matching of water pumps on these
engines.  I had one, for example, with a "long" pump on an 18 V and metal
fan.  When I ordered a new pump at rebuild time, the right (short)  pump
for the 18V, I found that the pulley used on the long pump would rub on
the pump toward the engine, and so required a spacer to move it forward
for clearance.  Well and good, except that the "correct" spacer then
caused misalignment of the belt grooves. I couldn't find a correct pulley
for this pump (rushing to get the car running for some club event) so I
turned off the rear (engine side) pulley groove and made a spacer of 1/4"
(maybe 3/16) aluminium that fits inside the pulley I had. The spacer
caused the grooves to align.
    That makes me a DPO also, since it works fine but it's not per the
book. 
   You may find mix & match in your car too.....
Bob
 
On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 13:07:45 -0400 "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
writes:
> Hello again,
> 
> The question this time is: is there supposed to be a fan spacer 
> between the 
> water pump pulley and the fan on a '72 MGB with the 18V engine? It 
> uses the 
> six bladed metal fan.
> 
> The length of the four bolts that secure the fan indicate that 
> there's a 
> spacer required, but I've torn the place apart and cannot find one.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ed Woods 
____________________________________________________________
Save on Moving Supplies. Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oij8uk2w2jxjEJIn4CKGz4MurL49Vk4Xv47gdy2JWrZKehv/

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jun 18 06:53:53 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 08:53:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MAG electrical
Message-ID: <20080618.090121.3956.11.MGBOB@juno.com>

Tom,
    Could be dynamo or regulator.  The red light shows that the system is
discharging. It should extinguish when the system is charging, at 1500
rpm or so. 
    Check connections first, then test the dynamo.  Worn brushes are easy
to replace and are a frequent cause of low or no output. 
     In the workshop manual is a diagnostic for regulator (control box). 
It seems difficult to do, but is pretty easy.   A "moving-coil" voltmeter
is the typical one that you probably have.   
Bob

 
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 06:49:14 -0400 (EDT) <thgun at comporium.net> writes:
> I drove my 57 MAG 1500 rest to work today. Radio disconnected, 
> started fine, flashers brite and good headlights. I drove 12 miles. 
> Still running good. The flashers stopped working and the horn will 
> not work. I shut the engine off and tried to restart. The batt was 
> down and would not turn the engine over. I had replaced the bat back 
> in late March. The ignition light stays on  while the engine is 
> running. Monday I had to bump the car off down hill to get it 
> started. 
>  Any ideas on what to check or replace?
> Thanks,
> Tom Gunderson 
> 
____________________________________________________________
Visa, MasterCard, AMEX & Discover. Compare Offers & Apply Online. Click here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2HXFRbIhbVOCQ2jnkYZdt5BtjSEJNtcpnS1IbrmvJrXvZj/

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Wed Jun 18 07:37:26 2008
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:37:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] "The Bombs"...
In-Reply-To: <01d801c8d0f1$c43d8140$6801a8c0@shop>
References: <01d801c8d0f1$c43d8140$6801a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <76664a460806180637q5f223e7dh1bdec9db1631ce11@mail.gmail.com>

That and VG is pretty hot stuff too.

- Steve

On 6/17/08, Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
> is an episode of "Livin' the Low Life" on Speed TV !!
>
>  You will NOT believe how TRUE TO original, but "adapted to Low Ride", the early American Iron these folks have re-stored !!!!
>
>  UN-REAL !!!  I mean BEAUTIFUL cars with their only "drawback" being that HIDDEN from "view" is the fact that these cars ARE "Low Riders"
>  (which 99.9% of the time I abhor<G>)!!!!!
>
>  It is SO worth watching!!!  These folks are making LBCdom look "lean"!!
>
>  UN-BELIEVABLE !!!
>  _______________________________________________
>  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>  You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
>
>  Mgs at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>  http://www.team.net/archive

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 18 11:44:52 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 12:44:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] June Sprints
Message-ID: <00ed01c8d16b$03cef5e0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Anybody going to the Sprints this weekend?  I'll get there Sunday, for sure;
maybe Saturday, as well.

Paul Root, where does your brother paddock?  Which car is he driving?

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed Jun 18 11:51:06 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 19:51:06 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
References: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <56AE278A3DF6458FBCA259C86CDB2E1E@uw471de61b465c>

Well that's a thing, which is done regulary overhere.
This fuel is called LPG (Liquified Petrol Gas), which normally is a waste 
product when the oil companies are producing normal gas and diesel fuel.
So this stuff is pretty cheap to produce and well distributed overhere in 
the Netherlands and some other countries on the European continent. I have 
had serious problems to find an LPG gas station in the UK in the late 
eighties, but perhaps that has been changed.

I have seen many MG's running on LPG, mostly these were BGT's and the more 
modern Z series.
It may well be, that some of the Magnette's may drive around with an LPG 
tank.
Why is this fuel so interesting?
It is much cheaper than normal fuel, it has a high octane rating - even 
higher than the 4 star ratings in the UK and it is quite clean compared with 
normal petrol (UK) / gas (US).
In the eighties I've driven several cars on LPG and evertime I was surprised 
how clean the oil stayed even after 10,000 miles.
For normal cars the road tax on LPG cars is the highest.
Overhere cars with an age over 25 years old do not have to pay any road tax, 
as these cars are expected to drive a minimal distance per year.

Cheers,

Hans - '71 BGT not to have LPG - very low milage/year




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
To: "MG list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 2:55 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane


> Well, while we have the hydrogen discussion.........................
> I've been thinking for a while about makeing my own methane using a 
> digester
> and the ample cow manure we  have here in the midwest.
> There's an article in the MOther Earth News back in the 70's about a guy 
> in
> Europe who did this and easily converted a carburated car to run methane
> with a simple hose from an LP tank and a valve to start the flow located 
> on
> his steering column. I probably would try the process out on an old 90 
> Chevy
> that I use around the "farm" before I went any farther. The digester can 
> be
> made (supposedly) from a large container with a water, hay, manure mix in 
> it
> and another container that fits tightly upside down inside the first and a
> stopcock on the top to let air out until the methane displaces it.
> We recently spent two months in China, and I'd read about Chinese farmers
> using this process and a simple inner tube holding the methane on top of
> their small tractor. Used a brick to  create the  few pounds of pressure
> needed to deliver it to the carb. Unfortunately, I didn't see anything
> resembling this in our travels throughout China.
>
> I'm looking for someone with more info about this process; can anyone put 
> me
> in contact with someone?
> Monte

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed Jun 18 11:53:20 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 19:53:20 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
References: <cab4b95c0806170555r239a6259jcee0b8e3b8b2c07b@mail.gmail.com>
	<4857E5D0.508@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <B859D0A72D844C899AAA5B9EB94F1A7E@uw471de61b465c>

LPG exhaust fumes have a destinguised smell.
In winter there's a lot of white smoke, as the exhaust gas contains quite 
some water vapour compared with normal fuel.

Cheers,

Hans
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charles & Peggy Robinson" <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
Cc: "MG list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane


> I'm wondering what the exhaust would smell like if you ran it on methane
> from manure!  Whew!  (G)
>
>
>   CR

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Jun 18 12:23:11 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 13:23:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] June Sprints
In-Reply-To: <00ed01c8d16b$03cef5e0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <00ed01c8d16b$03cef5e0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <2EFE5543-B440-4FBD-9351-EAF4546748E3@gmail.com>

We're heading up Friday morning. If driving goes as it usually does,  
we'll get there just after Rich's morning session.
So there will either be nothing to do, or complete pandemonium to get  
whatever fixed.

He always paddocks in the grass at the south end. Either up the hill  
through the woods from the grid by turn 1 or 2. Or across the Sargento  
bridge from the British Corral. Right around turn 4.

I haven't talked to him this week, so I still don't know which car  
he'll have. Either the 77 Rabbit in all purple or the "new" 83 GTI in  
green and purple. Last I heard, Bartel's hadn't finished the engine  
for the new car.   I think he's number 5. The SCCA screws with him on  
numbers from time to time.

He has a white canopy and a Dodge Van, that I can't remember the color  
currently.

The GT-L EP, FP, GP, and HP race is Sunday morning at 10:30. Gonna be  
the highlight of the weekend. :-)

Rich got us in a resort in Elkhart Lake so the kids will have a pool  
etc. We're planning on hitting Siebken's some night, without the kids.  
You have to say that, it is Wisconsin after all. :-)

See you at the Sprints!

Paul.

On Jun 18, 2008, at 12:44 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Anybody going to the Sprints this weekend?  I'll get there Sunday,  
> for sure;
> maybe Saturday, as well.
>
> Paul Root, where does your brother paddock?  Which car is he driving?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 13:47:07 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 19:47:07 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DFAV OEM application?
Message-ID: <061820081947.25359.4859663B000C5DCD0000630F22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hello again my fellow MGers!

   I'm  looking for  a rebuild kit for a Weber 32/36 DFAV ( "23A  2B"  are 
listed over to the right of this notation, in case it means anything)
local car parts place couldn't find definite application for rebuild kit.
    I'm wondering if anyone knows an original application for this carb?
    I tried suggesting Ford products like Pinto, capri and Cortina, since this 
looks a lot like the carb. that was on my 67 cortina GT.
   they couldn't find a definite match.
   This specific carb. was taken from an air cooled V.W, but it was an after 
market "upgrade" for that motor.
   If anyone knows a car this unit was put on as OEM equipment, I would 
appreciate it, as going through Ebay takes several weeks.
   TIA
Eric.
46 MG TC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra
So many cars, so little parking.

From RampantNM at aol.com  Wed Jun 18 14:05:19 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:05:19 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
Message-ID: <c6d.28090235.358ac47f@aol.com>

According to an article in our local paper, all the hybrids are carrying an  
extra dealer mark up of $4-5,000.00.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.


In a message dated 6/16/2008 5:45:35 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:

According to the Toyota website here in the US, a Prius starts at  $21,500.






**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Wed Jun 18 14:25:48 2008
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ronald A. Fine)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 13:25:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
Message-ID: <28093848.1213820748261.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I don't think you would call LPG a waste product.  I believe it was often burned off at the well because the oil producers didn't have the pipe lines to transport it to market and it was cheap but now it is specifically produced for all types of energy in USA.  It is one of the main sources of heating and power production in the western part of this country.  It is much cheaper to heat your home with "Natural Gas" than oil or electricity.  LPG is just Natural Gas that is cooled enough to condense it for storage in tanks.  There are many vehicles that are adapted to use LPG  but most of them are fleet vehicles such as busses that have a local yard where they return on a regular time schedule to fill up.  It is rare to see a normal gas station selling LPG.  The bus companies switched to using LPG because it was cheaper and much cleaner burning but for small cars, it takes a lot of space to store enough to make it practical.
Ron
 

>Well that's a thing, which is done regulary overhere.
>This fuel is called LPG (Liquified Petrol Gas), which normally is a waste 
>product 

From RampantNM at aol.com  Wed Jun 18 14:26:52 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:26:52 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
Message-ID: <bbc.27d96862.358ac98c@aol.com>

Can't smell any worse than propane or natural gas...which I understand is  
odorless when it comes from the ground and has the odor added.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.


In a message dated 6/17/2008 10:26:58 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
ccrobins at ktc.com writes:

I'm  wondering what the exhaust would smell like if you ran it on methane 
from  manure!  Whew!  (G)


CR






**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Wed Jun 18 14:50:04 2008
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:50:04 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Propane smell
Message-ID: <d47.2776fdf6.358acefc@aol.com>

On 6/18/2008 1:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time  RampantNM at aol.com wrote:
.......Can't smell any worse than propane or natural  gas...which I 
understand is odorless when it comes from the ground and has the  odor added.
Regards,
Robert B. Houston
Yeah they put that "garlicky"  smell in so that people don't accidentally 
blow themselves up or else suffocate  There was this boat launching at Lake 
Naciamento, CA. where people filled up  there propane tanks and stuff I don't 
remember the exact details except that  someone lit a match and it blew the heck 
out of everything Vaporized the boat  and the fuel tank...and the landing....
Albert Escalante   




**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 18 15:00:47 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:00:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DFAV OEM application?
Message-ID: <881177.88036.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I would check with Joe Curto (www.joecurto.com) - he is the expert on SU carbs but bet he has stuff for Webers as well.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "cyberemp at comcast.net" <cyberemp at comcast.net>
To: MG LIST <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:47:07 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DFAV OEM application?

Hello again my fellow MGers!

   I'm  looking for  a rebuild kit for a Weber 32/36 DFAV ( "23A  2B"  are 
listed over to the right of this notation, in case it means anything)
local car parts place couldn't find definite application for rebuild kit.
    I'm wondering if anyone knows an original application for this carb?
    I tried suggesting Ford products like Pinto, capri and Cortina, since this 
looks a lot like the carb. that was on my 67 cortina GT.
   they couldn't find a definite match.
   This specific carb. was taken from an air cooled V.W, but it was an after 
market "upgrade" for that motor.
   If anyone knows a car this unit was put on as OEM equipment, I would 
appreciate it, as going through Ebay takes several weeks.
   TIA
Eric.
46 MG TC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra
So many cars, so little parking.
_______________________________________________

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 18 15:02:23 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:02:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Propane smell
Message-ID: <452276.91010.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

'Garlicky'? I think it's more 'farty' than 'garlicky'!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "Aeseeyou at aol.com" <Aeseeyou at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net; RampantNM at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 4:50:04 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Propane smell

On 6/18/2008 1:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time  RampantNM at aol.com wrote:
.......Can't smell any worse than propane or natural  gas...which I 
understand is odorless when it comes from the ground and has the  odor added.
Regards,
Robert B. Houston
Yeah they put that "garlicky"  smell in so that people don't accidentally 
blow themselves up or else suffocate  There was this boat launching at Lake 
Naciamento, CA. where people filled up  there propane tanks and stuff I don't 
remember the exact details except that  someone lit a match and it blew the heck 
out of everything Vaporized the boat  and the fuel tank...and the landing....
Albert Escalante  




**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Jun 18 16:14:50 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 17:14:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DFAV OEM application?
In-Reply-To: <061820081947.25359.4859663B000C5DCD0000630F22165548869F030
	A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
References: <061820081947.25359.4859663B000C5DCD0000630F22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080618171120.039e66c8@nosimport.com>

Try Pierce Manifolds.  www.piercemanifolds.com     Very, very large 
stock of Weber and kits.

The DFAV is very similar to the DGV series, except it has an oval air 
filter connection and the linkage operates backwards. Only the jets 
interchange. The gaskets are mostly different.

         Peter C.

At 02:47 PM 6/18/2008, cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:
>Hello again my fellow MGers!
>
>    I'm  looking for  a rebuild kit for a Weber 32/36 DFAV ( "23A  2B"  are
>listed over to the right of this notation, in case it means anything)
>local car parts place couldn't find definite application for rebuild kit.
>     I'm wondering if anyone knows an original application for this carb?
>     I tried suggesting Ford products like Pinto, capri and Cortina, 
> since this
>looks a lot like the carb. that was on my 67 cortina GT.
>    they couldn't find a definite match.
>    This specific carb. was taken from an air cooled V.W, but it was an after
>market "upgrade" for that motor.
>    If anyone knows a car this unit was put on as OEM equipment, I would
>appreciate it, as going through Ebay takes several weeks.
>    TIA
>Eric.
>46 MG TC
>59 MGA
>65 MGB
>70 MGB
>71 MGB
>74.5 MGB
>00 Nissan X-Terra
>So many cars, so little parking.

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 18 18:52:50 2008
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 19:52:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
In-Reply-To: <213051.2257.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <213051.2257.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4859ADE2.1070204@sbcglobal.net>

Not an MG, but there are some serious efforts on producing a hydrogen 
car:  http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk/lifecar/lifecar.html

Charles Hill

From rsexson at excite.com  Wed Jun 18 18:58:35 2008
From: rsexson at excite.com (BOb Sexson)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 20:58:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] a guy needs VW help
Message-ID: <20080619005835.6678591FB3@xprdmxin.myway.com>

A friend needs help with his junk VW. Does anyone have an address for a list that might help him? Thanks
The most personalized portal on the Web!

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 20:14:32 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 22:14:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fan and Engine Mounting
References: <20080618.090121.3956.5.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <02df01c8d1b2$37070550$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Bob,

On closer inspection, I can see that, without the spacer, the metal fan 
would interfere with the front belt, the pulley on my car having two belt 
grooves. Guess I'll order that Moss part that Kelvin Dodd suggested, 
although I'm certain that the original will turn up in my garage as soon as 
I do.

Thanks so much for the enlightening conversation this past weekend. You 
supplied an important piece of the rear engine mount (transmission) puzzle. 
Once I knew that the upper bracket's straight side faced forward, the 
orientation of the bottom bracket followed in order for the two bottom bolts 
to line up. Using the forward of the two rubber mount holes in the cross 
member lined the X member up with the holes in the "frame". I wonder what 
the two holes to the rear are for, the standard four speed possibly? Are its 
mounting holes slightly to the rear of the ones in the LH overdrive?

Even the 3rd time through, it was not an easy job to get all those parts 
together and those four bolts started, but it sure was easier than the first 
time!!

Best,

Ed Woods

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 20:18:08 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 22:18:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] transmission switches
References: <OFDFD65383.EAD0E75C-ON8525745D.0063EBD1-8525745D.00641B37@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <02e601c8d1b2$b76dcf30$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Mark,

Thanks for the drawings of the transmission mounting and remote shifter 
assembly.

The step by step removal/replacement instructions for the transmission 
mount/X member were invaluable, especially the part about starting the rear 
transmission bolts before offering up the X member.

Ed Woods 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun 19 01:54:10 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 08:54:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fan and Engine Mounting
References: <20080618.090121.3956.5.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<02df01c8d1b2$37070550$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <008701c8d1e1$c805cfd0$0200a8c0@Three>

Took me 17 years to notice my fan was the wrong way round.  When I tried to
fit it the right way round I realised why - the spacer was missing.  The boss
is offset but about the same distance as the thickness of the spacer.  Without
the spacer and the right way round the blades did indeed interfere with
things, but the wrong way round without the spacer the blades ended up about
the same distance from the radiator as they should be albeit working in a
slightly less efficient manner.  I got a spacer from a 2nd-had parts place,
and new bolts, but can't say I have noticed any difference (mind you it has
hardly been hot yet this year so far).

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  On closer inspection, I can see that, without the spacer, the metal fan
  would interfere with the front belt, the pulley on my car having two belt
  grooves.

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Thu Jun 19 02:23:58 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 09:23:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <bbc.27d96862.358ac98c@aol.com>
References: <bbc.27d96862.358ac98c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806190123t43543f55g762745739a0410cb@mail.gmail.com>

I run my '96 Subaru on LPG.  No noticeable smell at any time, other than a
faint whiff when disconnecting the hose after filling up.  LPG is only
available at a minority of filling stations, but enough that it's not a real
problem (particularly since you can download them to your SatNav for when
you are in an area you are not familiar with).  The cost saving makes me
very happy!

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun 19 02:39:24 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 09:39:24 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
References: <bbc.27d96862.358ac98c@aol.com>
	<9f2527520806190123t43543f55g762745739a0410cb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00b401c8d1e8$156445d0$0200a8c0@Three>

LPG is also available at places other than filling stations, in the case of
Solihull at a chicken farm just outside the town!  It's unattended and you
have a card and PIN, drive up, no queuing, fill up, and you get an invoice at
the end of the month.  Even better is that not only is it less than half the
price of petrol but it is typically 20% cheaper than Autogas from filling
stations!!  And even more better is that every week one person is chosen at
random and not charged for their fill!!!

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  ...  LPG is only available at a minority of filling stations...

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun 19 03:58:39 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 10:58:39 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Carb air-cleaner gaskets
Message-ID: <00d001c8d1f4$b1fd44d0$0200a8c0@Three>

I've often read of people fitting these gaskets upside down which blocks the
additional holes in the carb and air-cleaner flanges, and that 'handed' type
of gasket is the only one I have ever seen ... up till now.  When replacing
the clutch on a friend's 78 I found these, which can be fitted either way up.
Brilliantly simple.

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/gaskets.jpg (handed on the left, non-handed
on the right)

PaulH

From derek at vandivere.net  Thu Jun 19 06:51:23 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 14:51:23 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Mgs] Propane smell
In-Reply-To: <452276.91010.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <452276.91010.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <58345.170.252.72.61.1213879883.squirrel@vandivere.net>

Isn't it some kind of sulfur compound?

> 'Garlicky'? I think it's more 'farty' than 'garlicky'!
>
>  Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "Aeseeyou at aol.com" <Aeseeyou at aol.com>
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; RampantNM at aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 4:50:04 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Propane smell
>
> On 6/18/2008 1:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time  RampantNM at aol.com wrote:
> .......Can't smell any worse than propane or natural  gas...which I
> understand is odorless when it comes from the ground and has the  odor
> added.
> Regards,
> Robert B. Houston
> Yeah they put that "garlicky"  smell in so that people don't accidentally
> blow themselves up or else suffocate  There was this boat launching at
> Lake
> Naciamento, CA. where people filled up  there propane tanks and stuff I
> don't
> remember the exact details except that  someone lit a match and it blew
> the heck
> out of everything Vaporized the boat  and the fuel tank...and the
> landing....
> Albert Escalante
>
>
>
>
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
> fuel-efficient used cars.
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
> You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as derek at vandivere.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu Jun 19 07:09:10 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 08:09:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <00b401c8d1e8$156445d0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <bbc.27d96862.358ac98c@aol.com>
	<9f2527520806190123t43543f55g762745739a0410cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b401c8d1e8$156445d0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0806190609u10b3ea92q69007de9ac945770@mail.gmail.com>

So, besides a tank to hold the LPG and a valve to feed it to the fuel
system, what other modifications would be needed to a carburated car? I
figure I'll set the truck up to run on both methane and gasoline; this is
what they do around here when running vehicles on propane.
Of course, first I'll have to figure out how to build the digester and
compress the gas into a tank.

Monte


On 6/19/08, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
> LPG is also available at places other than filling stations, in the case of
> Solihull at a chicken farm just outside the town!  It's unattended and you
> have a card and PIN, drive up, no queuing, fill up, and you get an invoice
> at
> the end of the month.  Even better is that not only is it less than half
> the
> price of petrol but it is typically 20% cheaper than Autogas from filling
> stations!!  And even more better is that every week one person is chosen at
> random and not charged for their fill!!!
>
> PaulH.
> ----- Original Message -----
> ...  LPG is only available at a minority of filling stations...
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 19 07:49:09 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 06:49:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] transmission switches
Message-ID: <707668.41749.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ed, have you made the modification to the transmission crossmember that allows you to tighten the bolts on the transmission? Basically,
you drill 2 holes through the crossmember to allow you to pass a socket through to the bolts.

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com
Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:18:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] transmission switches

Mark,

Thanks for the drawings of the transmission mounting and remote shifter 
assembly.

The step by step removal/replacement instructions for the transmission 
mount/X member were invaluable, especially the part about starting the rear 
transmission bolts before offering up the X member.

Ed Woods 
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Thu Jun 19 08:03:14 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 10:03:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] transmission switches
In-Reply-To: <707668.41749.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <OF6D6FF3B4.8557319F-ON8525746D.004CE1EB-8525746D.004D33CC@exxonmobil.com>

In the July/Aug '99 issue of MGB Driver there was a reprint of Leyland's
MGBGT V8 shop manual supplement that showed how to install the transmission
crossbrace WITHOUT needing to cut any holes in the crossbrace.

Mark
Corunna, ON
73 MGBGT
76 TR7
80 Spitfire 1500


                                                                                                                                       
                      Dan DiBiase                                                                                                      
                      <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>          To:      Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com                
                                                     cc:      Mgs at autox.team.net                                                       
                                                     Subject: Re: [Mgs] transmission switches                                          
                      06/19/2008 09:49 AM                                                                                              
                                                                                                                                       



Ed, have you made the modification to the transmission crossmember that
allows you to tighten the bolts on the transmission? Basically,
you drill 2 holes through the crossmember to allow you to pass a socket
through to the bolts.

Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
NAMGBR #5-2328
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html


----- Original Message ----
From: Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
Mark,

Thanks for the drawings of the transmission mounting and remote shifter
assembly.

The step by step removal/replacement instructions for the transmission
mount/X member were invaluable, especially the part about starting the rear

transmission bolts before offering up the X member.

Ed Woods

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Thu Jun 19 08:19:15 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:19:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <cab4b95c0806190609u10b3ea92q69007de9ac945770@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bbc.27d96862.358ac98c@aol.com>
	<9f2527520806190123t43543f55g762745739a0410cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b401c8d1e8$156445d0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<cab4b95c0806190609u10b3ea92q69007de9ac945770@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806190719w274706ffh6c0fab56203a3cf4@mail.gmail.com>

Don't know exactly how it would work with a carburator car.  In a fuel
injected car the LPG is fed through a valve into the air intake, between the
air filter and the throttle valve.  There is an ECU that controls the gas
flow, and a switch in the cabin that turns the gas flow on and
simultaneously the petrol flow off.  I guess in a carb car it would work the
same way, the switch would have to cut off the fuel supply, ideally between
the float bowl and the jet as simply stopping the fuel supply into the float
bowl may give wierd behaviour once the gas was flowing but petrol was still
being drawn out of the float bowl.  Carb cars also don't as standard have
the electronic systems that feed info to the ECU (lambda sensor, crank speed
sensor etc.).

In addition, of course, there is the LPG tank itself, and a special filler
nozzle for it, and pipework to connect all the bits together.

Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jun 19 08:26:13 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 10:26:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] transmission switches
References: <707668.41749.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004201c8d218$6d4efbc0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Dan,

I was able to tighten the rear bolts with an open end wrench. Nice clean
threads, brand new bolts. Probably more than required torque on 5/16" coarse
thread bolts in aluminum.

With any luck I'll never see this car again one I've delivered it to my
daughter in North Carolina. I bought it for her on her 16th birthday. She is
now 36. The work I'm doing is just like the items I purchase at my age:
everything has a lifetime guarantee.

Wouldn't mind having an MGB myself though to go with the TF.

Best,

Ed (soon with more questions, I'm certain)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dan DiBiase
  To: Ed Woods ; mark.jones at exxonmobil.com
  Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:49 AM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] transmission switches


  Ed, have you made the modification to the transmission crossmember that
allows you to tighten the bolts on the transmission? Basically,
  you drill 2 holes through the crossmember to allow you to pass a socket
through to the bolts.


  Dan D
  Central NJ USA
  '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
  '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
  NAMGBR #5-2328
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
  http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
  http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun 19 08:41:37 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:41:37 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] transmission switches
References: <707668.41749.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<004201c8d218$6d4efbc0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <008201c8d21c$202593f0$0200a8c0@Three>

I hope she hasn't been waiting 20 years for it ...
  ----- Original Message -----
  With any luck I'll never see this car again one I've delivered it to my
  daughter in North Carolina. I bought it for her on her 16th birthday. She
is
  now 36.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun 19 08:39:01 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:39:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
References: <bbc.27d96862.358ac98c@aol.com>
	<9f2527520806190123t43543f55g762745739a0410cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b401c8d1e8$156445d0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<cab4b95c0806190609u10b3ea92q69007de9ac945770@mail.gmail.com>
	<9f2527520806190719w274706ffh6c0fab56203a3cf4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008101c8d21c$2001b840$0200a8c0@Three>

Exactly the same in a carb car, which makes sense if you think about it, it
just squirts gas into the air stream in front of the throttle valve, the
amount being controlled by a regulator sensing intake vacuum or the venturi
effect (same as the carb jet) and hence engine load.  They can also be fitted
between carb and inlet manifold as the end result is the same.

http://www.autogasdevelopments.co.uk/Components.htm

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Don't know exactly how it would work with a carburator car.  In a fuel
injected car the LPG is fed through a valve into the air intake, between the
air filter and the throttle valve.

From sammler at bellsouth.net  Thu Jun 19 09:10:48 2008
From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler")
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 11:10:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] a guy needs VW help
In-Reply-To: <20080619005835.6678591FB3@xprdmxin.myway.com>
References: <20080619005835.6678591FB3@xprdmxin.myway.com>
Message-ID: <485A76F8.4040304@bellsouth.net>

aircooled VW 
<http://www.google.com/search?q=aircooled+vw&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a>

BOb Sexson wrote:
> A friend needs help with his junk VW. 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jun 19 11:46:26 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 13:46:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] transmission switches
References: <707668.41749.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<004201c8d218$6d4efbc0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<008201c8d21c$202593f0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <004b01c8d234$66c4e050$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Nope, only 8.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Paul Hunt
  To: Ed Woods
  Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] transmission switches


  I hope she hasn't been waiting 20 years for it ...

From macgroup at comcast.net  Thu Jun 19 12:09:11 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 11:09:11 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] a guy needs VW help
In-Reply-To: <20080619005835.6678591FB3@xprdmxin.myway.com>
References: <20080619005835.6678591FB3@xprdmxin.myway.com>
Message-ID: <0B1A1FC3737A49E4A75C19C7C0E4DCFA@StusLaptopPC>

www.thesamba.com,  if it's a Vanagon:  www.vanagon.com

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BOb
Sexson
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 5:59 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] a guy needs VW help

A friend needs help with his junk VW. Does anyone have an address for a list
that might help him? Thanks
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jun 19 13:43:00 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:43:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Propane smell
Message-ID: <20080619.163127.1068.5.MGBOB@juno.com>

  That is a problem with propane on boats. It's heavier than air so may
settle into the bilge. A spark from starter or generator can make an
exciting yachting event.   Most powerboats have a place where the tank
can be stored so that it vents overboard, and now that many sailboats
have cockpits open to the stern, the tanks can be placed in the cockpit. 
For those who want to use propane but lack a good place for the tank to
vent leaked gas overboard, there is a compartment that looks like a small
version of the in-ground trashcans or Doggie Doolies. It has a vent tube
to outside the hull, and a vented top for the tank to be
installed/removed.  
  An alternative that never caught on big, on the east coast at least,
was CNG, Compressed Natural Gas.  It is lighter than air.  
  Either is easier to use than the time-honored in USA alcohol stove that
burned a lot of fuel to make little heat and produced eye-stinging vapors
in a closed cabin, or the paraffin stove used in the UK and Europe.  The
paraffin stove made great heat, and smell, but spilled flaming paraffin
could not be extinguished with water.  
Bob



On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:50:04 EDT Aeseeyou at aol.com writes:
> On 6/18/2008 1:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time  RampantNM at aol.com 
> wrote:
> .......Can't smell any worse than propane or natural  gas...which I 
> 
> understand is odorless when it comes from the ground and has the  
> odor added.
> Regards,
> Robert B. Houston
> Yeah they put that "garlicky"  smell in so that people don't 
> accidentally 
> blow themselves up or else suffocate  There was this boat launching 
> at Lake 
> Naciamento, CA. where people filled up  there propane tanks and 
> stuff I don't 
> remember the exact details except that  someone lit a match and it 
> blew the heck 
> out of everything Vaporized the boat  and the fuel tank...and the 
> landing....
> Albert Escalante   
____________________________________________________________
Summer Spa Sweepstakes
Enter for your chance to WIN a Summer Spa Vacation!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7Ube357aQGfiolflS7grbJXts0R7xNWQ8ZdsYpZxNGYKznX/

From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Thu Jun 19 14:46:37 2008
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 16:46:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1213898402.31832.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1213898402.31832.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF409220@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

Guys,

	Excluding the conversion cost, what's the cost per mile for LPG
?  Or, how does LPG compare to gasoline in cost (1/2, 3/4, etc.) ?
	Also, what size tank is required to give the equivalent miles as
your original gas tank ?

Thanks, Skip  '74 B

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 19 15:16:46 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 14:16:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF409220@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Message-ID: <C4801ACE.18ACE%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

The Technical Editor for Road & Track has been covering alternative fuels
off and on for some time. About a year ago (IIRC) they ran a big summary of
all known alternative approaches, comparing energy density, cost,
availability, greenhouse consequences, etc. You should look for it in a
local library.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 6/19/08 1:46 PM, Christian, Skip at wellner.christian at navy.mil wrote:

> Guys,
> 
> Excluding the conversion cost, what's the cost per mile for LPG
> ?  Or, how does LPG compare to gasoline in cost (1/2, 3/4, etc.) ?
> Also, what size tank is required to give the equivalent miles as
> your original gas tank ?
> 
> Thanks, Skip  '74 B

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Fri Jun 20 02:10:55 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 09:10:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF409220@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
References: <mailman.9.1213898402.31832.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF409220@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806200110m50abcb66o4efd51b3c7857daa@mail.gmail.com>

"...Excluding the conversion cost, what's the cost per mile for LPG?  Or,
how does LPG compare to gasoline in cost (1/2, 3/4, etc.) ?  Also, what size
tank is required to give the equivalent miles as
your original gas tank ?..."


I believe for most cars the mpg with LPG is a bit worse than with
petrol/gasoline - around 80%.  I reckon I get about 23mpg (imperial gallons,
not your smaller US ones!) on LPG in my Subaru Legacy, on about 50% town
driving 50% highway, not sure what my petrol mileage is as I never travel
far enough on petrol to measure it.

In the UK, LPG is usually around half the price of petrol (currently 55.9p
per litre versus 120.9p for petrol at my local garage, so just under half),
largely because of the much reduced tax on LPG - about 75%-80% of the cost
of petrol and diesel is tax.  It also doesn't seem to be affected as much by
the rapidly rising prices of other oil products.

On this basis the cost is similar to running a car on petrol at 45-50mpg -
not bad for a four-wheel-drive big estate car!

Richard & Sammy

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 20 15:49:59 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 14:49:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge
Message-ID: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Can anyone explain why when you order a gift certificate for someone YOU get
charged $8.00 (for a $50.00 card in this case).
 
Does anyone else do this?
 
Their attitude about it was;
 
"That's our policy."
"That's the way we have always done it."
 
Can anyone defend this?
 
Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?
 
Sorry for venting here.
 
Carl French

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Fri Jun 20 16:00:04 2008
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 18:00:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge
References: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00eb01c8d320$fec88ef0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Carl

If I were you I would have told them to lump it and got one from Moss.  I've 
never heard of this crap - afterall they have use of your $50 until the time 
it is actually used.

Rick
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl French" <leylandauto at yahoo.com>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>; "MG-MGB" <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 17:49
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge


> Can anyone explain why when you order a gift certificate for someone YOU 
> get
> charged $8.00 (for a $50.00 card in this case).
>
> Does anyone else do this?
>
> Their attitude about it was;
>
> "That's our policy."
> "That's the way we have always done it."
>
> Can anyone defend this?
>
> Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?
>
> Sorry for venting here.
>
> Carl French

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 20 16:14:31 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:14:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge
References: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <016c01c8d323$0435cd10$6401a8c0@Larry>

Carl, I can't say what VB does with their card, but don't you just love it 
when, in addition to using your money for free until you (or whomever) 
purchase something with it, they take away a certain percentage of it's 
value if you don't use it up fast enough for their liking.  It's like they 
just can't think of enough ways to screw you.

A critical mistake, I would say, when their typical customer is old enough 
to remember being treated like a valued customer rather than just another 
victim.

Always remember -- there are other places to shop.


Larry


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl French" <leylandauto at yahoo.com>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>; "MG-MGB" <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 4:49 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge


Can anyone explain why when you order a gift certificate for someone YOU get
charged $8.00 (for a $50.00 card in this case).

Does anyone else do this?

Their attitude about it was;

"That's our policy."
"That's the way we have always done it."

Can anyone defend this?

Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?

Sorry for venting here.

Carl French
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive 

From awhitema at panix.com  Fri Jun 20 17:38:58 2008
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:38:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge
In-Reply-To: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F14B3D16-441D-470A-AD52-B4CFAD3911E0@panix.com>

On Jun 20, 2008, at 2:49 PM, Carl French wrote:

> Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?

No, but I couldn't give you a reason to shop with them before this.

On the other hand, Moss is easy to justify:  "Kelvin Dodd".

And to stop the reply from Ed, part of the reason why I buy things  
from Moss is thus: Moss "has a presence" on the list, without pushing  
that you actually buy things from them.  Low Pressure sales tactics  
are highly appreciated.

Now, if only Moss would fix their website backend so it would email  
me when things ship. :)

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/
'75 B (in pieces, at the painter)
'06 Subaru Outback Sport

From macgroup at comcast.net  Fri Jun 20 18:11:56 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:11:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
Message-ID: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC>

My 1965 B has given me a lot of trouble over the last couple of years.  Last
year it was a coil that quit when hot.   Stranded me three times before I
figured it out, after replacing everything else first.  The worst was
waiting for a drawbridge that took a half hour.  I tried to wait it out by
idling, but gave up and shut the hot engine down.  Of course, it wouldn't re
start.  Five miles of traffic backed up between me and the bridge.   Coils
never fail, do they?   I've never seen this in my 45 years of messing with
cars.  

 

Now I've got a pump cavitation problem.  I've tried two other pumps, and now
am using Moss's solid state pump that resists cavitation.  It's pretty darn
good, but not perfect.  I hear a loud clicking when it cavitates, and it
comes and goes.  If it stays long enough the engine will die, but restart.


 

So, the only thing I'm left with is the tank.  It is the original, so I
can't complain I guess.  But, if I remove the line, gas runs out of it no
problem.  The only thing I can figure is that rust or debris is clogging the
pick up when the pump is pumping.  But when I detach it from the carbs it
seems to pump fine.  

 

Any other ideas?  It looks like the only aftermarket tanks out there are
without baffles, and I don't like that idea.  

 

Thanks!

 

Stuart

'65 Roadster 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 20 18:17:08 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 19:17:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge
References: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006501c8d334$58141390$7d15a8c0@garage.local>

i only buy from vick/brit when i have no other options.

i like moss (and kelvin), and the b hive.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl French" <leylandauto at yahoo.com>
To: "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>; "MG-MGB" <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 4:49 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge


> Can anyone explain why when you order a gift certificate for someone YOU 
> get
> charged $8.00 (for a $50.00 card in this case).
>
> Does anyone else do this?
>
> Their attitude about it was;
>
> "That's our policy."
> "That's the way we have always done it."
>
> Can anyone defend this?
>
> Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?
>
> Sorry for venting here.
>
> Carl French 

From macgroup at comcast.net  Fri Jun 20 18:27:34 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:27:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge
In-Reply-To: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <515840.91496.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C37493ECF126482CBFDDD6D87AC4A68B@StusLaptopPC>

This is illegal in Washington, and more states are making it illegal.  It's
a rip off.  Check with your state attorney general's office and see if your
state has joined the rest of us.  It was prompted here because Starbucks had
a monthly charge of 10% on their gift cards!  Don't use it for a year, and
it evaporated.

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl
French
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 2:50 PM
To: mg list; MG-MGB
Subject: [Mgs] Victoria British Gift Card charge

Can anyone explain why when you order a gift certificate for someone YOU get
charged $8.00 (for a $50.00 card in this case).
 
Does anyone else do this?
 
Their attitude about it was;
 
"That's our policy."
"That's the way we have always done it."
 
Can anyone defend this?
 
Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?
 
Sorry for venting here.
 
Carl French
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 20 18:47:26 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:47:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
In-Reply-To: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <C4819DAE.18B77%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I don't understand "cavitation" as a description of the problem. At least,
it doesn't make sense that "solid state" would make any difference to
"cavitation", which is a purely hydrodynamic issue, if it exists at all.

Here's a question: does it run if you remove the gas cap?



on 6/20/08 5:11 PM, Stuart MacMillan at macgroup at comcast.net wrote:

> My 1965 B has given me a lot of trouble over the last couple of years.  Last
> year it was a coil that quit when hot.   Stranded me three times before I
> figured it out, after replacing everything else first.  The worst was
> waiting for a drawbridge that took a half hour.  I tried to wait it out by
> idling, but gave up and shut the hot engine down.  Of course, it wouldn't re
> start.  Five miles of traffic backed up between me and the bridge.   Coils
> never fail, do they?   I've never seen this in my 45 years of messing with
> cars.  
> 
>  
> 
> Now I've got a pump cavitation problem.  I've tried two other pumps, and now
> am using Moss's solid state pump that resists cavitation.  It's pretty darn
> good, but not perfect.  I hear a loud clicking when it cavitates, and it
> comes and goes.  If it stays long enough the engine will die, but restart.
> 
> 
>  
> 
> So, the only thing I'm left with is the tank.  It is the original, so I
> can't complain I guess.  But, if I remove the line, gas runs out of it no
> problem.  The only thing I can figure is that rust or debris is clogging the
> pick up when the pump is pumping.  But when I detach it from the carbs it
> seems to pump fine.
> 
>  
> 
> Any other ideas?  It looks like the only aftermarket tanks out there are
> without baffles, and I don't like that idea.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks!
> 
>  
> 
> Stuart
> 
> '65 Roadster 
> _______________________________________________

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 20 18:57:57 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:57:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge
Message-ID: <741601.15497.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I can give you one reason - if you need just a downpipe for a '75 B (non-cat-equipped), Moss doesn't have it but VB does! Made in England,
too. But can't say anything about the fit yet..................... ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com>
To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net>; MG-MGB <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 5:49:59 PM
Subject: [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge
 
Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 20 19:32:13 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 20:32:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge
References: <741601.15497.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01a901c8d33e$a2cac550$6401a8c0@Larry>

And any decent muffler shop around the corner can make one up for you in 
less than ten minutes for less than 1/10th the cost of either Moss or VB.

Sorry to rain on anybody's parade here, but some of this stuff is just so 
damn obvious.

Larry Daniels



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "mg list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge


I can give you one reason - if you need just a downpipe for a '75 B 
(non-cat-equipped), Moss doesn't have it but VB does! Made in England,
too. But can't say anything about the fit yet..................... ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
NAMGBR #5-2328
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com>
To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net>; MG-MGB <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 5:49:59 PM
Subject: [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge

Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive 

From macgroup at comcast.net  Fri Jun 20 22:29:44 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:29:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
In-Reply-To: <007e01c8d337$73e971c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC>
	<007e01c8d337$73e971c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <E34EA629C20F4C09AC39E7B3693A49C8@StusLaptopPC>

Yes, the tank is vented, and I've left the cap off and it makes no
difference.  The pump can't suck fuel out of the tank on a regular basis, so
the suction creates bubbles in the pump, that's what I mean by cavitation.
I think there is some debris in the tank that partially plugs the pick up.

I have a clear filter before the pump, and it doesn't look clogged.  I've
seen this once before in the '80's, when a piece of surgical tubing was
stuffed back into the tank after someone siphoned gas during the last gas
"crisis".  After a few years, the thing dissolved into swollen goo particles
that clogged the pick up intermittently.  

I guess 43 years is enough for a gas tank.  

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Woods [mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 5:41 PM
To: Stuart MacMillan
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?

Stuart,

Here's a thought: Is the tank vented somewhere? It has to be y'know. If you 
cannot find a vent, remove the gas cap and drive it. Does the problem go 
away? If so, vent the tank by drilling a hole in your gas cap; not the 
chrome cover, the part that seals the opening.

Ed
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup at comcast.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:11 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?


> My 1965 B has given me a lot of trouble over the last couple of years. 
> Last
> year it was a coil that quit when hot.   Stranded me three times before I
> figured it out, after replacing everything else first.  The worst was
> waiting for a drawbridge that took a half hour.  I tried to wait it out by
> idling, but gave up and shut the hot engine down.  Of course, it wouldn't 
> re
> start.  Five miles of traffic backed up between me and the bridge.   Coils
> never fail, do they?   I've never seen this in my 45 years of messing with
> cars.
>
>
>
> Now I've got a pump cavitation problem.  I've tried two other pumps, and 
> now
> am using Moss's solid state pump that resists cavitation.  It's pretty 
> darn
> good, but not perfect.  I hear a loud clicking when it cavitates, and it
> comes and goes.  If it stays long enough the engine will die, but restart.
>
>
>
>
> So, the only thing I'm left with is the tank.  It is the original, so I
> can't complain I guess.  But, if I remove the line, gas runs out of it no
> problem.  The only thing I can figure is that rust or debris is clogging 
> the
> pick up when the pump is pumping.  But when I detach it from the carbs it
> seems to pump fine.
>
>
>
> Any other ideas?  It looks like the only aftermarket tanks out there are
> without baffles, and I don't like that idea.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Stuart
>
> '65 Roadster
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as fogbro1 at comcast.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Jun 21 04:58:23 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 06:58:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
Message-ID: <20080621.070128.3096.2.MGBOB@juno.com>

Stuart,
   Can you see the pickup line inside the tank?  Perhaps it has rusted
pin-holes. If two or more pumps work OK, but pump more than they should
before delivering fuel to the carbs, the problem must be in the suction
side. 
Bob




On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:11:56 -0700 "Stuart MacMillan"
<macgroup at comcast.net> writes:
(snip)> 
> Now I've got a pump cavitation problem.  I've tried two other pumps, 
> and now
> am using Moss's solid state pump that resists cavitation.  It's 
> pretty darn
> good, but not perfect.  I hear a loud clicking when it cavitates, 
> and it
> comes and goes.  If it stays long enough the engine will die, but 
> restart.
> 
> 
>  
> 
> So, the only thing I'm left with is the tank.  It is the original, 
> so I
> can't complain I guess.  But, if I remove the line, gas runs out of 
> it no
> problem.  The only thing I can figure is that rust or debris is 
> clogging the
> pick up when the pump is pumping.  But when I detach it from the 
> carbs it
> seems to pump fine.  
> 
>  
> 
> Any other ideas?  It looks like the only aftermarket tanks out there 
> are
> without baffles, and I don't like that idea.  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks!
> 
>  
> 
> Stuart
> 
> '65 Roadster 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Enter for Your Chance to WIN*
The TotalBeauty.com Summer Spa Sweepstakes!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UfiJglwGxCVtsQ9dZUlXC44plk9tmRKwGj6WKBybb7V7RT/

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 21 06:38:00 2008
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 05:38:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Anti-Rust Paints
Message-ID: <480166.6010.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello Listers:
I was wondering if anyone has any experience with a
rust-neutralizing paint known as Rust Bullet (http://www.rustbullet.com/). 
This product appears to be somewhat along the lines as POR-15.  Any
experiences with this product?
Thanks....
Matt Milkevitch
'74 MGB-GT
Willow
Grove, PA

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Sat Jun 21 13:44:23 2008
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (Gordie)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 15:44:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge
In-Reply-To: <741601.15497.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <741601.15497.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000601c8d3d7$35c71cd0$680fa8c0@garage>

 I'll bet Cecilia at Scarbourough Faire could get it...

Gordie

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan
DiBiase
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:58 PM
To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mg list
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge

I can give you one reason - if you need just a downpipe for a '75 B
(non-cat-equipped), Moss doesn't have it but VB does! Made in England, too.
But can't say anything about the fit yet..................... ;-)

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com>
To: mg list <mgs at autox.team.net>; MG-MGB <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 5:49:59 PM
Subject: [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge
 
Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after this?
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat Jun 21 14:25:19 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 22:25:19 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
References: <213051.2257.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4859ADE2.1070204@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <5FA1B671A34E4E499990A95DA507CD9E@uw471de61b465c>

There's a big difference - the morgan design is a full hydrogen empowered 
cars - nice looks btw.
Where I refer to, is a car's internal hydrogen generator. The generator is 
run by the car's 12V installation.
The hydrogen is added to the normal fuel carburettor(s) asperation.
This combination acts as a kind of catalyst and is expected to make the 
car's mpg made better between 30% and 50%. My collegue already has installed 
a unit into his wife's Renault.
I'll closely follow the progress in this car and report you guys whether 
this all is a hoax...

Cheers,

Hans - 71 BGT with it's 18GK getting near restauration - crankshaft, pistons 
are back - block is maroon agin ....


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charles Hill" <chillmog at sbcglobal.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen


> Not an MG, but there are some serious efforts on producing a hydrogen
> car:  http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk/lifecar/lifecar.html
>
> Charles Hill

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Sat Jun 21 16:22:36 2008
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 18:22:36 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
Message-ID: <c1d.403dd034.358ed92c@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/21/2008 1:25:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
h.duinhoven at planet.nl writes:
>>I'll closely follow the progress in  this car and report you guys whether 
this all is a  hoax...
>>Cheers,
>>Hans 
To all--
Morgan may do a lot of things, but one thing they rarely if ever do is  allow 
itself to get involved in a hoax!
In fact when was the last time Morgan was involved in anything  even shady or 
questionable..They've got just a little too much integrity to  involve 
themselves in anything but highly innovative and brilliant  automotive R & D and And 
their reputation remains impeccable and in the  top 3-4 manufacturers in the 
world as far as as that goes!
Albert Escalante=CCBCC West
 



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From macgroup at comcast.net  Sun Jun 22 01:18:40 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 00:18:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
In-Reply-To: <20080621.070128.3096.2.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20080621.070128.3096.2.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <40255F5A3B1C47A99D138F610CA8ACE1@StusLaptopPC>

Bob, 

I had not thought about pin holes in the pick up tube, and I can't see it to
find out.  That is a definite possibility with a 45 year old tank!  I'm
going to put a fuel hose from the pump into a gallon of gas and see how the
system pumps tomorrow.  If it pumps fine, then it is definitely on the
suction side, which means a new tank.  

I just hate to replace the tank with one without baffles.  I'll take it to a
radiator shop here that rebuilds fuel tanks and see what can be done before
I do that. 

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Howard [mailto:mgbob at juno.com] 
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 3:58 AM
To: macgroup at comcast.net
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?

Stuart,
   Can you see the pickup line inside the tank?  Perhaps it has rusted
pin-holes. If two or more pumps work OK, but pump more than they should
before delivering fuel to the carbs, the problem must be in the suction
side. 
Bob




On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:11:56 -0700 "Stuart MacMillan"
<macgroup at comcast.net> writes:
(snip)> 
> Now I've got a pump cavitation problem.  I've tried two other pumps, 
> and now
> am using Moss's solid state pump that resists cavitation.  It's 
> pretty darn
> good, but not perfect.  I hear a loud clicking when it cavitates, 
> and it
> comes and goes.  If it stays long enough the engine will die, but 
> restart.
> 
> 
>  
> 
> So, the only thing I'm left with is the tank.  It is the original, 
> so I
> can't complain I guess.  But, if I remove the line, gas runs out of 
> it no
> problem.  The only thing I can figure is that rust or debris is 
> clogging the
> pick up when the pump is pumping.  But when I detach it from the 
> carbs it
> seems to pump fine.  
> 
>  
> 
> Any other ideas?  It looks like the only aftermarket tanks out there 
> are
> without baffles, and I don't like that idea.  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks!
> 
>  
> 
> Stuart
> 
> '65 Roadster 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Jun 22 08:16:03 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 16:16:03 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
References: <c1d.403dd034.358ed92c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C8724F03F7BA400883B3DD0AAB8EC5F5@uw471de61b465c>

Hey Albert I did not mean the Morgan news, rather my original info.
I'll have a close look, how my friend is making progress with his Renault.

Cheers,

Hans
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Aeseeyou at aol.com
  To: mgs at autox.team.net ; h.duinhoven at planet.nl
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 12:22 AM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen


  In a message dated 6/21/2008 1:25:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
h.duinhoven at planet.nl writes:
  >>I'll closely follow the progress in this car and report you guys whether
this all is a hoax...
  >>Cheers,
  >>Hans
  To all--
  Morgan may do a lot of things, but one thing they rarely if ever do is allow
itself to get involved in a hoax!
  In fact when was the last time Morgan was involved in anything even shady or
questionable..They've got just a little too much integrity to involve
themselves in anything but highly innovative and brilliant automotive R & D
and And their reputation remains impeccable and in the top 3-4 manufacturers
in the world as far as as that goes!
  Albert Escalante=CCBCC West

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sun Jun 22 10:41:17 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 11:41:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
In-Reply-To: <40255F5A3B1C47A99D138F610CA8ACE1@StusLaptopPC>
References: <20080621.070128.3096.2.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<40255F5A3B1C47A99D138F610CA8ACE1@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <485E80AD.3020303@gmail.com>

Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> Bob, 
>
> I had not thought about pin holes in the pick up tube, and I can't see it to
> find out.  That is a definite possibility with a 45 year old tank!  I'm
> going to put a fuel hose from the pump into a gallon of gas and see how the
> system pumps tomorrow.  If it pumps fine, then it is definitely on the
> suction side, which means a new tank.  
>
> I just hate to replace the tank with one without baffles.  I'll take it to a
> radiator shop here that rebuilds fuel tanks and see what can be done before
> I do that. 
I was having similar problems with the tank on the Victor (MGB-based Special). I dropped the tank and removed the fuel-level sensor and could see debris in the tank. Some $%#@ had put dry leaves in the fuel-filler. It took about a half-hour to remove all of the stuff out of the tank. I used an extension grabber and a syringe to remove it. After that all was well.

-The Roxter
--

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 22 17:43:03 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 16:43:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
In-Reply-To: <E34EA629C20F4C09AC39E7B3693A49C8@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <C4843197.18BB0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Having a filter before the pump might in itself be the problem.



on 6/20/08 9:29 PM, Stuart MacMillan at macgroup at comcast.net wrote:

> Yes, the tank is vented, and I've left the cap off and it makes no
> difference.  The pump can't suck fuel out of the tank on a regular basis, so
> the suction creates bubbles in the pump, that's what I mean by cavitation.
> I think there is some debris in the tank that partially plugs the pick up.
> 
> I have a clear filter before the pump, and it doesn't look clogged.  I've
> seen this once before in the '80's, when a piece of surgical tubing was
> stuffed back into the tank after someone siphoned gas during the last gas
> "crisis".  After a few years, the thing dissolved into swollen goo particles
> that clogged the pick up intermittently.
> 
> I guess 43 years is enough for a gas tank.
> 
> Stuart
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Woods [mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 5:41 PM
> To: Stuart MacMillan
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
> 
> Stuart,
> 
> Here's a thought: Is the tank vented somewhere? It has to be y'know. If you
> cannot find a vent, remove the gas cap and drive it. Does the problem go
> away? If so, vent the tank by drilling a hole in your gas cap; not the
> chrome cover, the part that seals the opening.
> 
> Ed

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Jun 22 18:34:14 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 19:34:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back from the June Sprints
Message-ID: <C9D23496-AF87-49F4-9836-E309483C9F13@gmail.com>

We just got back, and had a good weekend. Larry stopped by this  
morning before the race and we talked for a few minutes.

None race cars at the track were disappointing this year. There was a  
BMW and a Subaru in Brit's Pits. Lot's of Corvettes, several Ferraris,  
There were a couple TR6s in Elk Hart Lake and an XKE. We saw a TVR in  
Plymouth on Saturday, and near turn 3 on Sunday.
Some old Minis, lots of new. A Ford GT and a Pantera.

Oh, an XKR and a Quattroporte.  That's really it.

Of course, we didn't get out much, were working on the car much of  
Saturday. I got there Friday at 3:30 and Rich had just finished
putting in his spare transmission, which was a thrown in core for the  
new race car he bought this spring. He took it out, and fifth didn't  
work.

Saturday morning, he borrowed the spare transmission from the eventual  
winner. We got that in Saturday morning, and were on the track for the  
afternoon qualifying. He did just a few laps, and was happy that the  
car was running. We put it up on jack stands and waited for Sunday.

It was a good race, but the top 4 cars were all former GP cars. Pole  
was 5-6 seconds faster than the track record for HP. So they don't  
have it figured out yet. They had 5 cars with data acquisistion black  
boxes to get a feel for how things were. Rich came in 5th, or 1st in  
the classic HP race. The fastest of last years HP guys weren't there  
though. Except for the 510, but he broke, sad to say.

So we have to start a movement to take back Brit's Pits for the  
Runoffs in 2009. I'm planning on driving the 'B since the kids will be  
in school, and I'll be going down alone.


Paul. 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 22 18:45:13 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 20:45:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
References: <C4843197.18BB0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <004d01c8d4ca$66a01a70$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

If there are truly "air bubbles in the pump" then there is an air leak on 
the suction side of the pump. Right?

Plugging the pick up side of an S.U. pump simply stops the pump, so the pick 
up in the tank is not plugged.

Ed



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?


> Having a filter before the pump might in itself be the problem.
>
>
>
> on 6/20/08 9:29 PM, Stuart MacMillan at macgroup at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Yes, the tank is vented, and I've left the cap off and it makes no
>> difference.  The pump can't suck fuel out of the tank on a regular basis, 
>> so
>> the suction creates bubbles in the pump, that's what I mean by 
>> cavitation.
>> I think there is some debris in the tank that partially plugs the pick 
>> up.
>>
>> I have a clear filter before the pump, and it doesn't look clogged.  I've
>> seen this once before in the '80's, when a piece of surgical tubing was
>> stuffed back into the tank after someone siphoned gas during the last gas
>> "crisis".  After a few years, the thing dissolved into swollen goo 
>> particles
>> that clogged the pick up intermittently.
>>
>> I guess 43 years is enough for a gas tank.
>>
>> Stuart
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ed Woods [mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net]
>> Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 5:41 PM
>> To: Stuart MacMillan
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
>>
>> Stuart,
>>
>> Here's a thought: Is the tank vented somewhere? It has to be y'know. If 
>> you
>> cannot find a vent, remove the gas cap and drive it. Does the problem go
>> away? If so, vent the tank by drilling a hole in your gas cap; not the
>> chrome cover, the part that seals the opening.
>>
>> Ed
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as fogbro1 at comcast.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 22 19:56:39 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 20:56:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back from the June Sprints
References: <C9D23496-AF87-49F4-9836-E309483C9F13@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <028801c8d4d4$60fda510$6401a8c0@Larry>

It was good to see you, Paul.  I stopped back during the lunch break, but 
you guys were already packed up and ready to leave -- or at least Rich was, 
maybe you had headed for home already by then.  I imagine it was time for 
Rich to just enjoy the rest of the races.  I always liked it when my race 
was over and I could finally just relax and watch the rest of the races with 
nothing to do anymore.

I did miss Chris.  He must have packed up and taken off right after his race 
ended.

You guys who are close and don't attend the Sprints are missing some good 
racing.  Starting next year, the national run-offs will be held at Elkhart 
Lake / Road America, as well.  That means the two biggest amateur road races 
of the year will both be at RA.

Larry Daniels



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 7:34 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Back from the June Sprints


We just got back, and had a good weekend. Larry stopped by this
morning before the race and we talked for a few minutes.

None race cars at the track were disappointing this year. There was a
BMW and a Subaru in Brit's Pits. Lot's of Corvettes, several Ferraris,
There were a couple TR6s in Elk Hart Lake and an XKE. We saw a TVR in
Plymouth on Saturday, and near turn 3 on Sunday.
Some old Minis, lots of new. A Ford GT and a Pantera.

Oh, an XKR and a Quattroporte.  That's really it.

Of course, we didn't get out much, were working on the car much of
Saturday. I got there Friday at 3:30 and Rich had just finished
putting in his spare transmission, which was a thrown in core for the
new race car he bought this spring. He took it out, and fifth didn't
work.

Saturday morning, he borrowed the spare transmission from the eventual
winner. We got that in Saturday morning, and were on the track for the
afternoon qualifying. He did just a few laps, and was happy that the
car was running. We put it up on jack stands and waited for Sunday.

It was a good race, but the top 4 cars were all former GP cars. Pole
was 5-6 seconds faster than the track record for HP. So they don't
have it figured out yet. They had 5 cars with data acquisistion black
boxes to get a feel for how things were. Rich came in 5th, or 1st in
the classic HP race. The fastest of last years HP guys weren't there
though. Except for the 510, but he broke, sad to say.

So we have to start a movement to take back Brit's Pits for the
Runoffs in 2009. I'm planning on driving the 'B since the kids will be
in school, and I'll be going down alone.


Paul.
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive 

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Jun 23 04:41:20 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 06:41:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
Message-ID: <20080623.065655.3748.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Hi Stuart,
    I had another idea---that if there is fuel in the tank, and put a
clear plastic hose from tank connection to the fuel pump, running the
pump would show little air bubbles in the hose if there are pinholes on
the suction side.
Bob

On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 00:18:40 -0700 "Stuart MacMillan"
<macgroup at comcast.net> writes:
> Bob, 
> 
> I had not thought about pin holes in the pick up tube, and I can't 
> see it to
> find out.  That is a definite possibility with a 45 year old tank!  
> I'm
> going to put a fuel hose from the pump into a gallon of gas and see 
> how the
> system pumps tomorrow.  If it pumps fine, then it is definitely on 
> the
> suction side, which means a new tank.  
> 
> I just hate to replace the tank with one without baffles.  I'll take 
> it to a
> radiator shop here that rebuilds fuel tanks and see what can be done 
> before
> I do that. 
> 
> Stuart
____________________________________________________________
Sweepstakes!!! 
Enter for your chance to WIN one of hundreds of daily prizes.
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From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Mon Jun 23 05:12:18 2008
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 07:12:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <9f2527520806200110m50abcb66o4efd51b3c7857daa@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.9.1213898402.31832.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF409220@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
	<9f2527520806200110m50abcb66o4efd51b3c7857daa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF47312B@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

Richard,

    How about propane tank range ?  Can you go the same number of miles
on a full propane fill-up as you could with full fill-up of the stock
gasoline tank ??
    On your Subaru, does the oxygen sensor meter the propane mixture
like it does with the gas mixture ?

Thanks, Skip

________________________________

From: Richard Gosling [mailto:rbgosling at googlemail.com]
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 4:11
To: Christian, Skip
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane


"...Excluding the conversion cost, what's the cost per mile for LPG?
Or, how does LPG compare to gasoline in cost (1/2, 3/4, etc.) ?  Also,
what size tank is required to give the equivalent miles as
your original gas tank ?..."


I believe for most cars the mpg with LPG is a bit worse than with
petrol/gasoline - around 80%.  I reckon I get about 23mpg (imperial
gallons, not your smaller US ones!) on LPG in my Subaru Legacy, on about
50% town driving 50% highway, not sure what my petrol mileage is as I
never travel far enough on petrol to measure it.

In the UK, LPG is usually around half the price of petrol (currently
55.9p per litre versus 120.9p for petrol at my local garage, so just
under half), largely because of the much reduced tax on LPG - about
75%-80% of the cost of petrol and diesel is tax.  It also doesn't seem
to be affected as much by the rapidly rising prices of other oil
products.

On this basis the cost is similar to running a car on petrol at 45-50mpg
- not bad for a four-wheel-drive big estate car!

Richard & Sammy

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Mon Jun 23 05:33:45 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 12:33:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF47312B@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
References: <mailman.9.1213898402.31832.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF409220@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
	<9f2527520806200110m50abcb66o4efd51b3c7857daa@mail.gmail.com>
	<324752EE19E4E946968CE52D04456DAF47312B@naeapaxrez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806230433m3051a88atd0a6a635caf3f9d@mail.gmail.com>

The tank is quite small, about 35 litres, as it fits in the spare wheel well
- the original petrol tank is still in place.  I can get 180 miles from full
to the moment the engine starts dying and I have to switch back to petrol.
The petrol tank is probably at least 50% bigger, plus you get a few more
miles from a gallon of petrol.  That's probably the biggest down-side to the
system.  It's enough to last me a week between fill-ups, just.  Some 4WD
vehicles I've seen with rather larger tanks, but they take up more luggage
space.  Still, beats my Spitfire which I had to fill every 3 days, albeit on
quite a long commute!

The fuelling system certainly takes input from the lambda sensor in the
exhaust (I know 'cos I had to check it and clean it to pass emissions last
month!), don't know what other inputs it takes, haven't checked it out in
enough detail!
Richard


2008/6/23 Christian, Skip <wellner.christian at navy.mil>:

>  Richard,
>
>     How about propane tank range ?  Can you go the same number of miles on
> a full propane fill-up as you could with full fill-up of the stock gasoline
> tank ??
>     On your Subaru, does the oxygen sensor meter the propane mixture like
> it does with the gas mixture ?
>
> Thanks, Skip

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Jun 23 10:48:12 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 12:48:12 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
Message-ID: <c06.3a2c08b6.35912dcc@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/20/2008 2:11:40 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
rbgosling at googlemail.com writes:

In the  UK, LPG is usually around half the price of petrol (currently 55.9p
per  litre versus 120.9p for petrol at my local garage, so just under  half),
largely because of the much reduced tax on LPG - about 75%-80% of  the cost
of petrol and diesel is tax.  It also doesn't seem to be  affected as much by
the rapidly rising prices of other oil  products.

 
Any worries about the government coming after you for these taxes?   
Technically in the US, if you use it as a road fuel, you need to pay the  taxes.
 
Diesel for example, to be used on farms, is a different color than road  
diesel and the fine for using it on the road is hefty.
 
The taxman cometh!
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.







**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Jun 23 11:28:48 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 13:28:48 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Victoria British Gift Card charge
Message-ID: <d51.2e9ca23c.35913750@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/20/2008 3:50:25 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
leylandauto at yahoo.com writes:

 
 
 
Can anyone explain why when you order a gift certificate for someone YOU  get 
charged $8.00 (for a $50.00 card in this case).

Does anyone  else do this?





****Yes, some vendors do this and hide things like the card is only good  for 
a few months and loses value after a while***


Their attitude about it was;

"That's our  policy." 
"That's the way we have always done it."  
 
 
 




****Sounds like VB...I bought an electric  window kit from them and when I 
called to tell them it would not work on an  MGB, they said, "but we sell them 
for MGBs all the time!****

Can  anyone defend this?
*****Nope*-**

Can anyone give me a reason to shop with them after  this?
****Nope, unless you can't find a part anywhere else and you know in  advance 
the part will fit and is of a quality you accept..***

Sorry for venting here.
****No problem.  Sometimes it swings the other way.  I bought  $1800 worth of 
gift cards for family members last Christmas from a Mall...good  at any store 
in the mall.  When I checked my bank statement, they had  only charged my 
debit card $1000.00....yes, I know I am a  bad person,  but I'll try and live 
with myself..*****

Carl French 


 


Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Jun 23 13:06:08 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 15:06:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator Parts
References: <20080623.065655.3748.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <004601c8d564$32091100$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>

Are parts such as bearings and brushes available for Lucas Alternators? If 
so, where?

Thanks in advance.

Ed Woods

P.S. I see that Vicky Brit lists some, but I'd rather not go that way. 

From palte at gmx.net  Mon Jun 23 13:23:09 2008
From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:23:09 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator Parts
In-Reply-To: <004601c8d564$32091100$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <20080623.065655.3748.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<004601c8d564$32091100$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <20080623192309.70720@gmx.net>

Yes, they are.

There is a repair shop called Versteeg in Amersfoort, Netherlands who has almost 
anything in stock (including exotic parts like rectifier blocks for ACR-16 etc).


> Von: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
> An: mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Mgs] Alternator Parts

> Are parts such as bearings and brushes available for Lucas Alternators? If
> so, where?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Ed Woods

More seriously, Ed, this should not be too much of a problem.
AFAIK parts are not very difficult to obtain.

Bearings are a standard part, I don't have the specs at hand but if you want to, 
I can find it for you.


Bert  
-- 
Psssst! Schon vom neuen GMX MultiMessenger gehvrt?
Der kann`s mit allen: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/multimessenger

From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Jun 23 13:38:35 2008
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 15:38:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator Parts
In-Reply-To: <004601c8d564$32091100$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <20080623.065655.3748.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<004601c8d564$32091100$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <485FFBBB.2000508@snet.net>

Ed,
This one has bearings, rectifiers and diode packs:
http://www.transpo.de/

Mike
'79B

Ed Woods wrote:
> Are parts such as bearings and brushes available for Lucas Alternators? If 
> so, where?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ed Woods
>
> P.S. I see that Vicky Brit lists some, but I'd rather not go that way. 

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Jun 23 14:25:24 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 16:25:24 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on hydrogen
Message-ID: <c84.2cab342d.359160b4@aol.com>

.

In a message dated 6/21/2008 2:25:50 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
h.duinhoven at planet.nl writes:

My  collegue already has installed 
a unit into his wife's Renault.
I'll  closely follow the progress in this car and report you guys whether 
this  all is a hoax...

 
 
I'm wagering on the hoax, and giving 3-1 odds.....
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual






**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Jun 23 19:34:21 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 19:34:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Back from the June Sprints
References: <C9D23496-AF87-49F4-9836-E309483C9F13@gmail.com>
	<028801c8d4d4$60fda510$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <013d01c8d59a$6d91a300$6501a8c0@shop>

<<You guys who are close and don't attend the Sprints are missing some good racing. >>

You neglected to add that R.A. IS one of the GREATEST venues in the WORLD, Larry !!  Shame on you<G>!!!

And IMO, "close" has NOTHING to do with missing at least one of the events!!  R.A. IS worth a two day drive, possible even three<G>!!

Wish I coulda made it.  I LOVE the joint !!

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Jun 23 18:55:00 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 19:55:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back from the June Sprints
In-Reply-To: <013d01c8d59a$6d91a300$6501a8c0@shop>
References: <C9D23496-AF87-49F4-9836-E309483C9F13@gmail.com>
	<028801c8d4d4$60fda510$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<013d01c8d59a$6d91a300$6501a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <C6EF7204-3909-44ED-A15C-E8A6C4580760@gmail.com>

I've been to a number of tracks. Hallet (Ok), Salina (Ks), Emporia  
(Ks) Continental Divide (Co) now gone, Road Atlanta, Gateway (St  
Louis), Heartland Park (Ks). I'm sure a few more that I've forgotten.

I would love to go to Laguna Seca, Sears Point, Sebring, etc.

Road Atlanta is the closest thing to RA, but it just hasn't got it.

On Jun 23, 2008, at 8:34 PM, Ed's Shop wrote:

> <<You guys who are close and don't attend the Sprints are missing  
> some good racing. >>
>
> You neglected to add that R.A. IS one of the GREATEST venues in the  
> WORLD, Larry !!  Shame on you<G>!!!
>
> And IMO, "close" has NOTHING to do with missing at least one of the  
> events!!  R.A. IS worth a two day drive, possible even three<G>!!
>
> Wish I coulda made it.  I LOVE the joint !!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net  Mon Jun 23 19:05:13 2008
From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:05:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] stuck engine
Message-ID: <00d601c8d596$5c15ea90$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca>

HELP!
73 MGBGT with an engine that will not rotate. I removed the valve rocker 
assembly, still no spin. although two of the valves were stuck, when I 
removed the sparkplugs, there was ample clearance so the engine should at 
least rotated a little one way or the other. sprayed liguid wrench down the 
plug holes and down the valve stems. Rachet broke while trying to free the 
engine. transmission was in neutral. The engine turned over 9 months ago. 
Could the rings be that frozen???
Any ideas/suggestions would be welcomed.
Thanks,
Craig Holmes
cbhlouky at bellsouth.net 

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 23 19:43:28 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 20:43:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Back from the June Sprints
References: <C9D23496-AF87-49F4-9836-E309483C9F13@gmail.com><028801c8d4d4$60fda510$6401a8c0@Larry><013d01c8d59a$6d91a300$6501a8c0@shop>
	<C6EF7204-3909-44ED-A15C-E8A6C4580760@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002401c8d59b$b3ddbdc0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Paul, and yet you haven't been to Brainerd which is closer to you than any 
other track?  A fun, very fast track.  Faster than RA.  You need to get 
there once.

I agree with you and would love to get to Laguna Seca once, as well.  I also 
need to get to Watkin's Glen once before I die.  One of these years, the 
Glen is going to be a road trip for me.



Ed, you could have made it.  It's only about two hours for you.  Try going 
to one of the less used gates like 3 or 4 where they might not know you and 
will let you in.  They might even charge you the same as anybody else.  Wear 
a mask?


Anonymous


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back from the June Sprints


I've been to a number of tracks. Hallet (Ok), Salina (Ks), Emporia
(Ks) Continental Divide (Co) now gone, Road Atlanta, Gateway (St
Louis), Heartland Park (Ks). I'm sure a few more that I've forgotten.

I would love to go to Laguna Seca, Sears Point, Sebring, etc.

Road Atlanta is the closest thing to RA, but it just hasn't got it.

On Jun 23, 2008, at 8:34 PM, Ed's Shop wrote:

> <<You guys who are close and don't attend the Sprints are missing
> some good racing. >>
>
> You neglected to add that R.A. IS one of the GREATEST venues in the
> WORLD, Larry !!  Shame on you<G>!!!
>
> And IMO, "close" has NOTHING to do with missing at least one of the
> events!!  R.A. IS worth a two day drive, possible even three<G>!!
>
> Wish I coulda made it.  I LOVE the joint !!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive 

From rbgosling at googlemail.com  Tue Jun 24 01:42:14 2008
From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 08:42:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Run the MG on methane
In-Reply-To: <c06.3a2c08b6.35912dcc@aol.com>
References: <c06.3a2c08b6.35912dcc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9f2527520806240042q3782658h566043c254ce1e1b@mail.gmail.com>

No problem with tax - the LPG is taxed as a road fuel, and sold at normal
filling stations, it's just taxed a lot less because the government wants to
encourage its use as a supposedly "greener" alternative fuel.  It's all
legit!

We have the same thing with agricultural fuel - "red diesel" with a dye in
it is sold for off-road use only.  With the much higher road fuel taxes we
pay over here there is a huge temptation to use it for the road, but, like
you, the penalties for doing so are severe.

Richard

From macgroup at comcast.net  Tue Jun 24 11:52:01 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 10:52:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
In-Reply-To: <020401c8d5a8$3d93af50$6501a8c0@shop>
References: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC><007e01c8d337$73e971c0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<E34EA629C20F4C09AC39E7B3693A49C8@StusLaptopPC>
	<020401c8d5a8$3d93af50$6501a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <49EAA74263914FB2A4CBC481907D4800@StusLaptopPC>

Hi Ed and others,



Yes, there were bubbles, it looked like beer flowing out, and the tank was
only < down, which indicates a leak at the top of the pick up tube.  I used
the pump to empty the tank of over 8 gallons, or about $40 worth in my
rip-off market ($4.69 for premium).  Ive run a filter before the pump for
many years with no problems, and there arent even any rust bits in the
filter.  All modern high pressure fuel injection systems Ive seen have a
big filter in front of the pump and usually a smaller one after it, but they
pump continuously in a loop.  I cant see that it could be any other
problem, that pump handled the bubbles fine with no back pressure, and even
did a good job of keeping me running most of the time.  I highly recommend
it, get it and forget it!!!

http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30837



I dropped the tank over the weekend, and it wasnt as bad a job as I
expected.  Only one of those captive square nuts was frozen, and of course
it was in the worst place, between the tank and the rear valance.  20
minutes plus a helper for that, and 20 minutes for all the rest!  Typical.



I finally found a shop that will evaluate it, and Im dropping it off today
for an evaluation.

There was very little rust on the inside, and only some surface rust on the
top rear edge.  Amazing after 43 years here in Seattle!



Ed, do your new tanks have baffles?   How much? The shop guy said $125 to
$300, depending on what he finds.  There is no one around here I could find
that would do anything for chump change.  No chumps except me around here, I
guess.



Stuart

65 MGB



  _____

From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com]
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 8:13 PM
To: Stuart MacMillan
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?



Stuart:



<<I guess 43 years is enough for a gas tank. >>



Have you gotten any further on "solving" the prob??



I would recommend that BEFORE you possibly waste some bucks on a new tank,
that you drain and take to a good radiator shop.  Most around here DO "boil"
them out for essentially "chump" change.  Last one I had done was for a
Spridget and was $20.00.  I rust treated exterior and painted for my in-shop
customer's car.  Car is only 38 tho<G>!!



If you DO need a new one, please ask me for a price prior to actually
purchasing.  I will save you some $s !!



Ed

Please visit my site at:  www.justbrits.com

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun 24 12:13:49 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 13:13:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Electric MGB
In-Reply-To: <c6d.28090235.358ac47f@aol.com>
References: <c6d.28090235.358ac47f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4861395D.9080408@ktc.com>

   It varies by dealer.  Some gouge and some do not.  When I ordered my 
'04 Prius in late '03, there was a 6 month waiting list.  I told them 
that if they jacked up the price when the car came in, they could stick 
it.  The sales people told me it would never happen because the owner 
wouldn't allow it.  They stuck to the deal.

   CR


RampantNM at aol.com wrote:
> According to an article in our local paper, all the hybrids are carrying an  
> extra dealer mark up of $4-5,000.00.
>  
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston

From macgroup at comcast.net  Tue Jun 24 12:26:00 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 11:26:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] stuck engine
In-Reply-To: <00d601c8d596$5c15ea90$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca>
References: <00d601c8d596$5c15ea90$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca>
Message-ID: <0259899696624F8C9FACB2201E766731@StusLaptopPC>

Craig,

Usually it's corrosion of the aluminum pistons. It swells up between the
piston and cylinder wall.  I've had luck just pouring a few ounces of
penetrating oil into each cylinder and leaving it overnight, or longer.  If
this doesn't work, it's time to rebuild (it probably is anyway). You'll have
to beat the pistons out with a big hammer and block of wood, and the engine
block will need to be bored. 

Next time you store it for nine months squirt a bunch of WD-40 into the
cylinders, put the plugs back in, and it should survive. Oh yeah, put fresh
oil it to and run it before doing this.  When restarting, remove the plugs
and crank it over until you build some oil pressure, then start it with the
new battery you probably had to buy!

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 6:05 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] stuck engine

HELP!
73 MGBGT with an engine that will not rotate. I removed the valve rocker 
assembly, still no spin. although two of the valves were stuck, when I 
removed the sparkplugs, there was ample clearance so the engine should at 
least rotated a little one way or the other. sprayed liguid wrench down the 
plug holes and down the valve stems. Rachet broke while trying to free the 
engine. transmission was in neutral. The engine turned over 9 months ago. 
Could the rings be that frozen???
Any ideas/suggestions would be welcomed.
Thanks,
Craig Holmes
cbhlouky at bellsouth.net 
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jun 24 12:30:48 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 13:30:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel tank problem--ideas?
In-Reply-To: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC>
References: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <48613D58.7090702@ktc.com>

  I've had two coils fail.  One was on a '53 Ford but it was easy to see 
the problem.  The darned thing split open and arced like mad.  The other 
was on a '56 Olds.  The engine would start but stalled when the auto 
tranny was put into gear.  Found that when I noticed that there was a 
pool of oil under the coil on the intake manifold.  Those old AC coils 
used oil for a dialectric.

   CR

Stuart MacMillan wrote:
>  Coils
> never fail, do they?   I've never seen this in my 45 years of messing with
> cars.  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> '65 Roadster 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From guinness at stclegal.com  Tue Jun 24 17:54:44 2008
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 18:54:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sticky Valves
Message-ID: <48618944.5040804@stclegal.com>

You may remember my recent thread about loss of power after a cylinder 
head rebuild.  The group's consensus was that my valves were sticking, 
possibly because the machine shop might have used brass valve guides 
that expand at a greater rate when heated thereby "choking" the valve 
stems.  I contacted the machine shop that did my cylinder head rebuild 
and he said he ordinarily uses brass valve guides, but he insisted that 
was not my problem.  He said it was more likely that " varnish" in my 
gas was causing the valves to stick .  I told him the car had been 
driven regularly the fall and early winter before the rebuild (about 
once every two weeks) and that the car had not had this problem before 
the rebuild.  He suggested that I put fuel additive in my tank to see if 
it cleared things up.  Is this guy blowing smoke?  He is used and 
recommended by our local MG repair shop and he has experience with these 
engines.  If I should give gas treatment a try, what brand/type does the 
group recommend.  I heard that Seafoam was good for both the gas tank 
and crankcase.   Is this true.  Will I be doing more harm than good if I 
do this experiment?  I should add that I am also getting erratic 
idling.  It will gradually climb to 1200 to 1500 rpm after driving for 
20 minutes or so and sometimes goes to 2000 to 2500!  Thanks in advance.

Robert Guinness
1961 MGA with a 1963 1800 3 main engine and stock SU's

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun 24 22:19:37 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 22:19:37 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed
References: <48618944.5040804@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <02ab01c8d67a$aec9bcf0$6501a8c0@shop>

Isn't there a Lister in the Quincy, IL area??

Tnx

Ed

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Tue Jun 24 21:42:00 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:42:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sticky Valves
Message-ID: <20080625033720.EF760187642@autox.team.net>

Erratic idle is more likely carburation, as in worn shafts and/or bushings.  Could be two problems.

I don't buy the sticky valve/varnish story.

Is the guide material 'bronze' and not 'brass?'  Brass is too soft for guides.

Your guides might be incorrectly reamed, as in too tight a clearance.  That could hang them up.


Jim 
1957 MGA #311

-----Original Message-----

From:  "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com>
Subj:  [Mgs] Sticky Valves
Date:  Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:54 pm
Size:  1K
To:  MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>

You may remember my recent thread about loss of power after a cylinder 
head rebuild.  The group's consensus was that my valves were sticking, 
possibly because the machine shop might have used brass valve guides 
that expand at a greater rate when heated thereby "choking" the valve 
stems.  I contacted the machine shop that did my cylinder head rebuild 
and he said he ordinarily uses brass valve guides, but he insisted that 
was not my problem.  He said it was more likely that " varnish" in my 
gas was causing the valves to stick .  I told him the car had been 
driven regularly the fall and early winter before the rebuild (about 
once every two weeks) and that the car had not had this problem before 
the rebuild.  He suggested that I put fuel additive in my tank to see if 
it cleared things up.  Is this guy blowing smoke?  He is used and 
recommended by our local MG repair shop and he has experience with these 
engines.  If I should give gas treatment a try, what brand/type does the 
group recommend.  I heard that Seafoam was good for both the gas tank 
and crankcase.   Is this true.  Will I be doing more harm than good if I 
do this experiment?  I should add that I am also getting erratic 
idling.  It will gradually climb to 1200 to 1500 rpm after driving for 
20 minutes or so and sometimes goes to 2000 to 2500!  Thanks in advance.

Robert Guinness
1961 MGA with a 1963 1800 3 main engine and stock SU's
You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun 25 01:51:05 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 08:51:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Coil failure
References: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC>
	<48613D58.7090702@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <005f01c8d699$7f263590$0200a8c0@Three>

It happens, but only after many years.  Originally the spades were riveted to
the coil and over time these work loose and start giving an intermittent
contact.  This (as well as other causes) makes the tach swing wildly as the
engine misfires or drops to zero instantly if it cuts right out.  Later coils
have studs and nuts which overcomes the problem.  Broken turns is also
possible but I think this is more rare, as long as you are using the correct
resistance coil for your wiring.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  >  Coils never fail, do they?   I've never seen this in my 45 years of
messing with
  > cars.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jun 25 02:21:51 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:21:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Sticky Valves
References: <48618944.5040804@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <00ae01c8d69d$b732fa00$0200a8c0@Three>

It simply isn't possible the but *just* varnish from fuel or loads of us would
suffer from it, but it could be a combination of that with other factors like
insufficient clearance which is down to him.  You could try running the engine
with the rocker cover off and clipping an adjustable timing light to various
plug leads and pointing it at the suspect valve or valves, on the appropriate
lead by turning the adjuster on the light you should be able to freeze the
valve in any position from fully up to fully down and watch for any
erraticality.

A high idle shows fuel is getting past the butterfly.  Whilst worn bushings
and shafts *can* cause this, I doubt they could be so bad as to make it idle
at 2500rpm.  I've had a similar effect from the poppet valves in the
butterflies, although that was during warm-up from below freezing.  I soldered
them shut.  Other than that something must be causing one or other of the
butterflies to stick, try pressing each closed in turn and if that does
something does it have the return springs on each butterfly (to the heat
shield as well as around the spindle)?  Is there some free play in the
throttle cable?  Failing that it could be the butterfly binding in the throat.
Removing the air cleaners and using a listening tube or balancer should tell
you which carb is sticking open or whether both are.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----
  ...  He said it was more likely that " varnish" in my
  gas was causing the valves to stick.

  ...I should add that I am also getting erratic
  idling.  It will gradually climb to 1200 to 1500 rpm after driving for
  20 minutes or so and sometimes goes to 2000 to 2500!

From macgroup at comcast.net  Wed Jun 25 11:52:49 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 10:52:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Coil failure
In-Reply-To: <005f01c8d699$7f263590$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <37DED8C92C9E4AF393D33A9E5730EED9@StusLaptopPC>
	<48613D58.7090702@ktc.com> <005f01c8d699$7f263590$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <B4AB8978E0A14822AC1F072A67E6FCDA@StusLaptopPC>

We are all showing our age with this one.  I actually have seen modern "coil
packs" fail due to cracking, but that was a manufacturing defect.  But the
old fashioned "coil in a can" was pretty bomb proof.  And it usually was a
go or no go thing, or had obvious leaks or broken terminals.  Mine was a
Lucas Sport Coil (I know, I know, I should have known!)  installed about 20
years ago, but not actually driven more than 20,000 miles.   Worked fine
cold, and the hotter it got, the more likely it was to just stop working
until it cooled down.   A bad internal wire obviously. 

 

So, I actually have been trying to fix two major intermittent problems that
would strand me without warning for the past three years-the coil and the
gas tank, which made driving the car a complete crapshoot!  (My wife will
never drive it again.)

 

Stuart,

Waiting to hear about his gas tank.

 

  _____  

From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 12:51 AM
To: Stuart MacMillan
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coil failure

 

It happens, but only after many years.  Originally the spades were riveted
to the coil and over time these work loose and start giving an intermittent
contact.  This (as well as other causes) makes the tach swing wildly as the
engine misfires or drops to zero instantly if it cuts right out.  Later
coils have studs and nuts which overcomes the problem.  Broken turns is also
possible but I think this is more rare, as long as you are using the correct
resistance coil for your wiring.

 

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

>  Coils never fail, do they?   I've never seen this in my 45 years of
messing with
> cars.  

From jkk at adams.net  Wed Jun 25 17:26:47 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 18:26:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed
References: <48618944.5040804@stclegal.com>
	<02ab01c8d67a$aec9bcf0$6501a8c0@shop>
Message-ID: <001001c8d71a$f01d9050$6501a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Yep, that would be me!

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 11:19 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed


> Isn't there a Lister in the Quincy, IL area??
> 
> Tnx
> 
> Ed
> _______________________________________________

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 25 18:00:18 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 17:00:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed
Message-ID: <789523.64174.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hope you're in a high spot, Jim......!

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: James Kleemeyer <jkk at adams.net>
To: Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com>; MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 7:26:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed

Yep, that would be me!

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 11:19 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed


> Isn't there a Lister in the Quincy, IL area??
> 
> Tnx
> 
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From jkk at adams.net  Wed Jun 25 22:15:09 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 23:15:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed
References: <789523.64174.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8d743$39266f60$6501a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dan DiBiase


  Hope you're in a high spot, Jim......!


  Dan D


   We're okay.I actually live in the tiny town of Lima on the bluffs
overlooking the flood plain. We're only a mile from the river now since the
levee broke at the dam at Meyer instead of the normal five miles, though. One
of my brothers lives (or lived I guess I should say) in Meyer, he has eight
feet of muddy water in his house. It's not over, either. We got 4-6" of rain
last night that is threatening to collapse several levees that are still
struggling to hold back the river in this area.

  Jim

From dave at camptownshakers.com  Thu Jun 26 07:25:32 2008
From: dave at camptownshakers.com (dave at camptownshakers.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 09:25:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Cheery Red MGA
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1214416800.18870.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1214416800.18870.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <34825.52.129.1214486732.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>

I was on an errand yesterday that had me traveling on busy US RT 202 near
Valley Forge, PA at the start of the afternoon rush. I moved one lane left
to allow a beautiful red MGA to merge.  My mood had been somewhat sour due
to the nature of my errand but this rare sighting (tagged MY57 MGA)
cheered me considerably, especially since I have one of the same in the
garage awaiting its much needed restoration and return to the road. Id
expected the driver to stay in the slower right lanes but was surprised to
see him give it some welly and cruise right along with the faster traffic.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jun 26 08:02:39 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:02:39 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] A bit of a run
Message-ID: <012f01c8d797$27dfa1a0$0200a8c0@Three>

Drove up to Scotland and back last weekend in the V8 to climb Ben Nevis -
highest mountain in the UK.  867 miles averaging over 34mpg (UK gallons).
Fair do's 3/4 of the mileage was motorway covered at a steady speed of 75, but
200 miles was single carriageway doing plenty of overtaking.  About 7 hours
each way.  Google reckoned the distance was 822 miles, so the odometer at
least is overreading by about 5.5%, which is about par for the course as 0% to
10% is the allowable range in the UK.  Took the indicated mileage to 99387,
but that is the 2nd time around, with one rebore and probably crank grind
about 100k miles ago I reckon.  Used no water and only a couple of millimetres
of oil on the dip-stick.

Weather lovely in Scotland on the Saturday and all the way back on the Monday,
absolutely dire for the climb on Sunday - cloud base just above sea level,
howling gale, horizontal rain, freezing cold (we were in snow at the summit),
and visibility just a few yards.  Overdue for a bad one, the previous five
climbs had all been good weather.  By world standards Ben Nevis isn't
particularly high at 4403ft/1344m but the base is at sea-level so you climb
all of it!  Came across hundreds of '3 peaks' challengers on the way down,
attempting to climb the highest peaks in Scotland, England (Scafell Pike) and
Wales (Snowdon) including travel between them in 24 hours.  We are doing our
own '3 peaks' - Snowdon a couple of years ago, Ben Nevis this year, and
Scafell Pike in a year or so :o)

PaulH.

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Thu Jun 26 11:18:38 2008
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 13:18:38 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: FW: Fastest MG
Message-ID: <d4f.2e3e73b1.3595296e@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/26/2008 8:33:03 A.M.  Pacific Daylight Time, 
dswellwood at hotmail.com  writes:
>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VxXaCJU_2A&feature=related
I  was just sent this excellent MG historical YouTube.com. Were they 
nicknamed "The  Pumpkinseed MG's?"  

Albert Escalante
CCBCC-West Coast Edition



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
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From: Dave Wellwood <dswellwood at hotmail.com>
To: Radu Metea <radu.metea at ramca.net>, Albert Escalante
  <aeseeyou at aol.com>, Patrick Redd <juniorredds at dslextreme.com>
Subject: FW: Fastest MG
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 08:32:04 -0700
Importance: Normal
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Check this out.....very interesting. Cheers, DAve

> From: kingseim at earthlink.net
> Subject: Fastest MG
> Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 22:44:08 -0700
>
> >> Here is a link to youtube, where you can watch some interesting MG
> >> film clips.
>
> John
>
> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VxXaCJU_2A&feature=related
>

_________________________________________________________________
The im Talkathon starts 6/24/08.  For now, give amongst yourselves.
http://www.imtalkathon.com?source=TXT_EML_WLH_LearnMore_GiveAmongst=

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 26 12:54:54 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 11:54:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Cheery Red MGA
Message-ID: <405319.68696.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well, you'll be seeing a LOT more MG's for the next few days, as MG2008 is occurring this week-end in VF.....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: "dave at camptownshakers.com" <dave at camptownshakers.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 9:25:32 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Cheery Red MGA

I was on an errand yesterday that had me traveling on busy US RT 202 near
Valley Forge, PA at the start of the afternoon rush. I moved one lane left
to allow a beautiful red MGA to merge.  My mood had been somewhat sour due
to the nature of my errand but this rare sighting (tagged MY57 MGA)
cheered me considerably, especially since I have one of the same in the
garage awaiting its much needed restoration and return to the road. Id
expected the driver to stay in the slower right lanes but was surprised to
see him give it some welly and cruise right along with the faster traffic.
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 26 12:56:56 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 11:56:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] A bit of a run
Message-ID: <262846.31740.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Paul, how did the V8 do on fuel?

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: V8 list <mgb-v8 at autox.team.net>; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 10:02:39 AM
Subject: [MG-MGB] A bit of a run

Drove up to Scotland and back last weekend in the V8 to climb Ben Nevis - highest mountain in the UK.  867 miles averaging over 34mpg (UK gallons).  Fair do's 3/4 of the mileage was motorway covered at a steady speed of 75, but 200 miles was single carriageway doing plenty of overtaking.  About 7 hours each way.  Google reckoned the distance was 822 miles, so the odometer at least is overreading by about 5.5%, which is about par for the course as 0% to 10% is the allowable range in the UK.  Took the indicated mileage to 99387, but that is the 2nd time around, with one rebore and probably crank grind about 100k miles ago I reckon.  Used no water and only a couple of millimetres of oil on the dip-stick.

Weather lovely in Scotland on the Saturday and all the way back on the Monday, absolutely dire for the climb on Sunday - cloud base just above sea level, howling gale, horizontal rain, freezing cold (we were in snow at the summit), and visibility just a few yards.  Overdue for a bad one, the previous five climbs had all been good weather.  By world standards Ben Nevis isn't particularly high at 4403ft/1344m but the base is at sea-level so you climb all of it!  Came across hundreds of '3 peaks' challengers on the way down, attempting to climb the highest peaks in Scotland, England (Scafell Pike) and Wales (Snowdon) including travel between them in 24 hours.  We are doing our own '3 peaks' - Snowdon a couple of years ago, Ben Nevis this year, and Scafell Pike in a year or so :o)

PaulH.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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From twobees at sprynet.com  Thu Jun 26 12:59:26 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:59:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Some MGB/C parts on eBay
Message-ID: <000f01c8d7be$c1922e40$7b451645@normoffice>

I'm finally doing some garage-cleaning.  In doing so, I found some things
from my MGB that someone might want - a pair of old-style tail light
assemblies & a pair of hardtop brackets.  I have them on eBay along with
some Italian car stuff.

If you're interested, please check out items: 280240224827 &  280240227935.
End times of Jul-03-08 05:26:18 PDT.   If you aren't interested, please pass
on to anyone who might be.

Only other item I have for eBay isn't yet ready for prime time viewing.  It
is a European "fuel cell."  It is merely an aluminum tank with screw-on cap
with foam inside.  NO BLADDER, no spill-proof vent.  Made by Brise Alloy
Fabricators  ( http://www.brise.co.uk/tanks.html ).  Is there a market for
something like that here???  Sure doesn't pass tech at most races I've been
at.

Norm Sippel

From guinness at stclegal.com  Thu Jun 26 13:57:34 2008
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:57:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Floods and MG's
Message-ID: <4863F4AE.8090506@stclegal.com>

I live in Lincoln County, Missouri and travel daily through the towns of 
Clarksville, Elsberry, and Winfield on a 100 mile round trip commute.  
You may have read about these towns in the news.  What used to be 
farmland is now a vast ocean.  The flood has closed the major 
thoroughfares which required me to take my MGA through the hills (curvy 
gravel roads and all).  But it was a blast  --  at least when all four 
cylinders were kicking in (see sticky valve posts).  I got quite a few 
stares from the MP's patrolling the areas as my MGA passed their wide 
Humvees on these twisty little roads.  The worst hazard, however, is the 
hundreds of deer that are being forced out of the bottom grounds and are 
all congregating on the roadsides. It is hard to miss them when they 
travel across. The views from the bluffs are breath taking  --  
beautiful but sad too.  I wonder if Monte is having the same experiences 
in Hannibal.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Jun 26 14:07:05 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 22:07:05 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed
References: <789523.64174.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<000901c8d743$39266f60$6501a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <BDABDDA235A145F9BC3EF5231C3D9B3C@uw471de61b465c>

How weird the weather can be - at several areas of the Netherlands we have 
the worst draught in many decades.
Saw a potatoe farmer on TV yesterday showing how his crop is growing badly.

Best wishes,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Kleemeyer" <jkk at adams.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 6:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed


>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Dan DiBiase
>
>
>  Hope you're in a high spot, Jim......!
>
>
>  Dan D
>
>
>   We're okay.I actually live in the tiny town of Lima on the bluffs
> overlooking the flood plain. We're only a mile from the river now since 
> the
> levee broke at the dam at Meyer instead of the normal five miles, though. 
> One
> of my brothers lives (or lived I guess I should say) in Meyer, he has 
> eight
> feet of muddy water in his house. It's not over, either. We got 4-6" of 
> rain
> last night that is threatening to collapse several levees that are still
> struggling to hold back the river in this area.
>
>  Jim

From DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org  Thu Jun 26 14:45:06 2008
From: DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org (Don Scott)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 13:45:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] battery cables
Message-ID: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>

Hello MG folks,
Does anyone know of a source for the battery cable helmet type connections?
Connectors I have now are the aftermarket bolt on type; I like to have
original type pieces on my car when possible.  Thanks!
Don Scott
'73 MGB GT
'62 MGA Mk II

From macgroup at comcast.net  Thu Jun 26 16:15:00 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:15:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
Message-ID: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3@StusLaptopPC>

Surprising what you can find goofing around on the 'net:

 

http://tinyurl.com/5nm2tb   Spectacular early '65 MGB restoration.

 

My son's '64 project will look like this someday, only Tartan Red--if we
both live long enough!

 

Stuart

Still waiting to hear about my gas tank

From macgroup at comcast.net  Thu Jun 26 16:23:52 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:23:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Floods and MG's
In-Reply-To: <4863F4AE.8090506@stclegal.com>
References: <4863F4AE.8090506@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <84755E45C07A42B6A79B92E8F717136C@StusLaptopPC>

Robert, 

Please post some photos on one of the free sites like www.flickr.com that we
can view.  Thanks! 
Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
J. Guinness
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 12:58 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] Floods and MG's

I live in Lincoln County, Missouri and travel daily through the towns of 
Clarksville, Elsberry, and Winfield on a 100 mile round trip commute.  
You may have read about these towns in the news.  What used to be 
farmland is now a vast ocean.  The flood has closed the major 
thoroughfares which required me to take my MGA through the hills (curvy 
gravel roads and all).  But it was a blast  --  at least when all four 
cylinders were kicking in (see sticky valve posts).  I got quite a few 
stares from the MP's patrolling the areas as my MGA passed their wide 
Humvees on these twisty little roads.  The worst hazard, however, is the 
hundreds of deer that are being forced out of the bottom grounds and are 
all congregating on the roadsides. It is hard to miss them when they 
travel across. The views from the bluffs are breath taking  --  
beautiful but sad too.  I wonder if Monte is having the same experiences 
in Hannibal.
-- 
Robert Guinness
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org  Thu Jun 26 16:28:57 2008
From: DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org (Don Scott)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:28:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
In-Reply-To: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3@StusLaptopPC>
References: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F36@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>

I wish I could afford to buy it, but it's got to be very expensive.  It looks
like a new car.
That is about as nice a restoration as I've seen.  Wonder what it cost to do a
car to those standards, and what is the price they are asking?  Anyone on this
list restore one to that quality, and if so, what did it cost to do?

Don Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dscott1=sonoma-county.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dscott1=sonoma-county.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Stuart MacMillan
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 3:15 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?

Surprising what you can find goofing around on the 'net:



http://tinyurl.com/5nm2tb   Spectacular early '65 MGB restoration.



My son's '64 project will look like this someday, only Tartan Red--if we both
live long enough!



Stuart

Still waiting to hear about my gas tank

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 26 17:20:18 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:20:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
In-Reply-To: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3@StusLaptopPC>
Message-ID: <C4897242.18D8E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Nice. Too bad it's white. Not sure why he's calling it a "5 speed" -- might
as well call it a "6 speed", if he's including the overdrive.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/26/08 3:15 PM, Stuart MacMillan at macgroup at comcast.net wrote:

> Surprising what you can find goofing around on the 'net:
> 
>  
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/5nm2tb   Spectacular early '65 MGB restoration.
> 
>  
> 
> My son's '64 project will look like this someday, only Tartan Red--if we
> both live long enough!
> 
>  
> 
> Stuart
> 
> Still waiting to hear about my gas tank

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Thu Jun 26 19:39:54 2008
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 20:39:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
In-Reply-To: <C4897242.18D8E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3@StusLaptopPC>
	<C4897242.18D8E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000901c8d7f6$d73d8900$85b89b00$@net>

If you watch the video it says it has AC, power locks, power windows, cruise
control, power steering.  Much more of a stretch than 5 speed...


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 6:20 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?

Nice. Too bad it's white. Not sure why he's calling it a "5 speed" -- might
as well call it a "6 speed", if he's including the overdrive.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/26/08 3:15 PM, Stuart MacMillan at macgroup at comcast.net wrote:

> Surprising what you can find goofing around on the 'net:
> 
>  
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/5nm2tb   Spectacular early '65 MGB restoration.
> 
>  
> 
> My son's '64 project will look like this someday, only Tartan Red--if we
> both live long enough!
> 
>  
> 
> Stuart

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Jun 27 00:28:24 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 06:28:24 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] 65 mgb restro sour grapes.
Message-ID: <062720080628.24346.486488880000297700005F1A22165548869F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Re: 65 Resto MGB.
Oh sure, that's neat  if your into that kind of thing. ;-)
   But Mines faster! :P
Eric "sour grapes" peterson.



From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup at comcast.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3 at StusLaptopPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Surprising what you can find goofing around on the 'net:

 

http://tinyurl.com/5nm2tb   Spectacular early '65 MGB restoration.

 

My son's '64 project will look like this someday, only Tartan Red--if we
both live long enough!

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jun 27 04:21:10 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:21:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] battery cables
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>

That's one of those things that is taking originality beyond practicality,
IMHO.  The helmet type always give trouble after a few years of removing and
replacing as they expand and make a poor connection.  The bolt-up will never
suffer from that.  They were also moulded on so you will have to replace the
cables, not just the connectors, and in the case of the 6v-battery link cable
means finding one that includes the armouring as well.

Just my 2 penn'orth.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Does anyone know of a source for the battery cable helmet type connections?
  Connectors I have now are the aftermarket bolt on type; I like to have
  original type pieces on my car when possible.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jun 27 04:22:48 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:22:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
References: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3@StusLaptopPC><C4897242.18D8E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000901c8d7f6$d73d8900$85b89b00$@net>
Message-ID: <015c01c8d841$5d279c50$0200a8c0@Three>

In which case it almost certainly does have a modern 5-speed box instead of
the original 6-speed ...

  ----- Original Message -----
  If you watch the video it says it has AC, power locks, power windows,
cruise
  control, power steering.  Much more of a stretch than 5 speed...

From dave at camptownshakers.com  Fri Jun 27 05:37:14 2008
From: dave at camptownshakers.com (dave at camptownshakers.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 07:37:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17098.1214530840.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17098.1214530840.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>

Supposed to be fairly straight forward, the shop manual and various notes
on the internet say pretty much the same thing. I don't have a
oxy/acetylene outfit so I've cut through as far as I can with a hacksaw
(the shoulder of the flywheel prevents cutting all the way through).
Dozens of mightly wacks on a big chisel with a mallet didn't seem to do
much though. I was standing the flywheel on edge, on a piece of wood and
hitting down. Maybe the wood was absobing too much of the force. Should I
have placed the flywheel flat side (engine side)down and tired to split it
that way? I've never had much luck with chisels.

Dave
'66 MGB

From DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org  Fri Jun 27 08:00:49 2008
From: DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org (Don Scott)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 07:00:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] battery cables
In-Reply-To: <015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
	<015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>

If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with Miatas or
S2000s.

From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 3:21 AM
To: Don Scott; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] battery cables

That's one of those things that is taking originality beyond practicality,
IMHO.  The helmet type always give trouble after a few years of removing and
replacing as they expand and make a poor connection.  The bolt-up will never
suffer from that.  They were also moulded on so you will have to replace the
cables, not just the connectors, and in the case of the 6v-battery link cable
means finding one that includes the armouring as well.

Just my 2 penn'orth.

PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
Does anyone know of a source for the battery cable helmet type connections?
Connectors I have now are the aftermarket bolt on type; I like to have
original type pieces on my car when possible.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jun 27 08:21:07 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 15:21:07 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] battery cables
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov><015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <004201c8d862$84784bd0$0200a8c0@Three>

If you can't make your MG reliable, then maybe.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with Miatas or
  S2000s.

From don at napanet.net  Fri Jun 27 09:23:51 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 08:23:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <004201c8d862$84784bd0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov><015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
	<004201c8d862$84784bd0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>

I love MGs but they are totally impractical!  I do drive a Miata and a Honda. 
Modern driving in much of the US is a war zone comprised of bad pavement, very
aggressive drivers, congested roads, traffic going 90 mph one minute, stopped
the next.  Driving an old MG in these conditions is just not pleasant or
practical.  
If conditions were the same as they were in 1970, I would drive an MG as my
regular car.  It's a different world today. 

Quoting Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>:

> If you can't make your MG reliable, then maybe.
> 
> PaulH.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with Miatas or
>   S2000s.
> _______________________________________________

From shaws at mlcltd.com  Fri Jun 27 09:08:31 2008
From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 10:08:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov><015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
	<004201c8d862$84784bd0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <457F5176-91C4-4DD9-ABB5-CA2DB1D24A19@mlcltd.com>

I drive my modified MGA frequently and everywhere. Using modern  
technology available for MGs, they are reliable, practical and fun. I  
do not, however, drive the car when ice and salt are present on the  
streets.
Bob Shaw
shaws at mlcltd.com
My MGA is not leaking,
It is merely marking its territory



On Jun 27, 2008, at 10:23 AM, don at napanet.net wrote:

> I love MGs but they are totally impractical!  I do drive a Miata  
> and a Honda.
> Modern driving in much of the US is a war zone comprised of bad  
> pavement, very
> aggressive drivers, congested roads, traffic going 90 mph one  
> minute, stopped
> the next.  Driving an old MG in these conditions is just not  
> pleasant or
> practical.
> If conditions were the same as they were in 1970, I would drive an  
> MG as my
> regular car.  It's a different world today.
>
> Quoting Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>:
>
>> If you can't make your MG reliable, then maybe.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>   ----- Original Message -----
>>   If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with  
>> Miatas or
>>   S2000s.
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as shaws at mlcltd.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shaws at mlcltd.com  Fri Jun 27 09:10:07 2008
From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 10:10:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd:  MG practicality
References: <457F5176-91C4-4DD9-ABB5-CA2DB1D24A19@mlcltd.com>
Message-ID: <23D49A0B-2812-44A9-A265-3ACD4FF42D0C@mlcltd.com>

> From: Bob Shaw <shaws at mlcltd.com>
> Date: June 27, 2008 10:08:31 AM CDT
> To: don at napanet.net
> Cc: Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>, mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG practicality
>
> I drive my modified MGA frequently and everywhere. Using modern  
> technology available for MGs, they are reliable, practical and fun.  
> I do not, however, drive the car when ice and salt are present on  
> the streets.
> Bob Shaw
> shaws at mlcltd.com
> My MGA is not leaking,
> It is merely marking its territory
>
>
>
> On Jun 27, 2008, at 10:23 AM, don at napanet.net wrote:
>
>> I love MGs but they are totally impractical!  I do drive a Miata  
>> and a Honda.
>> Modern driving in much of the US is a war zone comprised of bad  
>> pavement, very
>> aggressive drivers, congested roads, traffic going 90 mph one  
>> minute, stopped
>> the next.  Driving an old MG in these conditions is just not  
>> pleasant or
>> practical.
>> If conditions were the same as they were in 1970, I would drive an  
>> MG as my
>> regular car.  It's a different world today.
>>
>> Quoting Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>:
>>
>>> If you can't make your MG reliable, then maybe.
>>>
>>> PaulH.
>>>   ----- Original Message -----
>>>   If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with  
>>> Miatas or
>>>   S2000s.
>>> _______________________________________________
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>
>> You are subscribed as shaws at mlcltd.com
>>
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From awhitema at panix.com  Fri Jun 27 09:30:15 2008
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 08:30:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov><015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
	<004201c8d862$84784bd0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <3D7A9ED9-9F98-4378-8A29-CC06A15E0A56@panix.com>

On Jun 27, 2008, at 8:23 AM, don at napanet.net wrote:

> I love MGs but they are totally impractical!

I completely disagree!  The MG is cheap, reliable (if sorted), gets  
good mileage, and at least in my case is paid for.  It's larger  
inside than the Miata and significantly less expensive than the S2000  
(even when buying "overpriced" restorations).

> I do drive a Miata and a Honda.
> Modern driving in much of the US is a war zone comprised of bad  
> pavement, very
> aggressive drivers, congested roads, traffic going 90 mph one  
> minute, stopped
> the next.  Driving an old MG in these conditions is just not  
> pleasant or
> practical.

For 6 years, my car had a disconnected brake booster, and I could  
stop well enough to feel safe, because the brakes were otherwise  
fine.  Last fall, I fixed the leaking booster seal, the brakes are  
scary good now.  Driving is always a pleasure when I'm out in that  
car.  Snow, rain, sun...  Even black ice was doable, if tense.  If my  
MGB can handle Spokane roads (pothole capital of the northwest) and  
Puget Sound traffic, then any decently sorted MGB could do it.

I only have a second car because there are moments where the MG isn't  
practical.  When I go skiing with friends, it's nice to be able to  
take them and their stuff.  When I go mountain biking, it's nice to  
be able to carry the bikes and a friend to the trailhead.  When I go  
camping, it's nice to be able to take all my stuff.

Is my Subaru more practical than my MG?  Maybe.  It gets better  
mileage, can haul more stuff and more people, has more power, has All  
Wheel Drive, Anti-lock brakes, airbags, and all the other modern  
amenities of a car made just 2 years ago.  That's why I bought it.   
On the other hand, I'm paying nearly $400 a month for that car,  
driving about 6000 miles a year.  Economically, it's not practical.

If the weather is good, the MG is always more pleasant to drive,  
hands down.  A new car doesn't make traffic more enjoyable.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/
'75 B (at the painter), HIF4 carbs
'06 Subaru Outback Sport

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Jun 27 09:32:03 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 01:02:03 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov><015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
	<004201c8d862$84784bd0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <E25AC4D1-EEFC-4C38-8273-6C45F940EEDD@erickson.on.net>

On 28/06/2008, at 12:53 AM, don at napanet.net wrote:

> I love MGs but they are totally impractical!

Prepare yourself for the onslaught.

> Driving an old MG in these conditions is just not pleasant or
> practical.

Of course I don't know exactly what the conditions are where you are  
(or if you might be gilding the lily a tad with your description of  
the conditions), but where I live I find driving my 'B both pleasant  
AND practical - and my car is semi-track so it is even less "pleasant  
and practical" than a standard car.

I may feel every bump in the road but that is more than compensated  
for by the sheer joy of top-down cruising in a classic car  
(especially when all of those around you are encased in glass and  
steel)..

Of course, YMMV  :-)


Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From macgroup at comcast.net  Fri Jun 27 10:04:52 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:04:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
In-Reply-To: <34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
References: <mailman.17098.1214530840.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
Message-ID: <571B0BCFEEBB417DB9ABC01B5089FE46@StusLaptopPC>

Dave,

This is a job for a machine shop.  It has to be heated up both for removal
and installing the new one.  Shouldn't cost much, call around and save
yourself some grief!

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dave at camptownshakers.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:37 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal

Supposed to be fairly straight forward, the shop manual and various notes
on the internet say pretty much the same thing. I don't have a
oxy/acetylene outfit so I've cut through as far as I can with a hacksaw
(the shoulder of the flywheel prevents cutting all the way through).
Dozens of mightly wacks on a big chisel with a mallet didn't seem to do
much though. I was standing the flywheel on edge, on a piece of wood and
hitting down. Maybe the wood was absobing too much of the force. Should I
have placed the flywheel flat side (engine side)down and tired to split it
that way? I've never had much luck with chisels.

Dave
'66 MGB
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Fri Jun 27 10:07:56 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 12:07:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
In-Reply-To: <000901c8d7f6$d73d8900$85b89b00$@net>
References: <A7C179036760493FA1A3C871C8D9C1F3@StusLaptopPC>
	<C4897242.18D8E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000901c8d7f6$d73d8900$85b89b00$@net>
Message-ID: <4865105C.9050005@snet.net>

That's the optional ARMstrong power windows and ARMstrong power 
steering.  No stretch at all!

Chad Cooper wrote:
> If you watch the video it says it has AC, power locks, power windows, cruise
> control, power steering.  Much more of a stretch than 5 speed...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 6:20 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
>
> Nice. Too bad it's white. Not sure why he's calling it a "5 speed" -- might
> as well call it a "6 speed", if he's including the overdrive.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 6/26/08 3:15 PM, Stuart MacMillan at macgroup at comcast.net wrote:
>
>   
>> Surprising what you can find goofing around on the 'net:
>>
>>  
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/5nm2tb   Spectacular early '65 MGB restoration.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 27 10:31:25 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:31:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
In-Reply-To: <34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
Message-ID: <C48A63ED.18DC6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

You are suppose to heat it red hot to get it on, according to the manual.
Wouldn't it work the same way getting it off?


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/27/08 4:37 AM, dave at camptownshakers.com at dave at camptownshakers.com
wrote:

> Supposed to be fairly straight forward, the shop manual and various notes
> on the internet say pretty much the same thing. I don't have a
> oxy/acetylene outfit so I've cut through as far as I can with a hacksaw
> (the shoulder of the flywheel prevents cutting all the way through).
> Dozens of mightly wacks on a big chisel with a mallet didn't seem to do
> much though. I was standing the flywheel on edge, on a piece of wood and
> hitting down. Maybe the wood was absobing too much of the force. Should I
> have placed the flywheel flat side (engine side)down and tired to split it
> that way? I've never had much luck with chisels.
> 
> Dave
> '66 MGB

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 27 10:37:10 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:37:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <C48A6546.18DC8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I beg to differ. An MGB, at least, is completely at home in modern traffic.
The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power
accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, etc. The performance
is perfectly acceptable, or at least it is for a CBB. I suppose one of the
seriously power-starved models, like a 75, might seem out of place.

I don't just "keep up" with traffic, I can set the pace if I am inclined.
The B is far more nimble and maneuverable than the typical too-tall,
overweight modern vehicle.

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/27/08 8:23 AM, don at napanet.net at don at napanet.net wrote:

> I love MGs but they are totally impractical!  I do drive a Miata and a Honda.
> Modern driving in much of the US is a war zone comprised of bad pavement, very
> aggressive drivers, congested roads, traffic going 90 mph one minute, stopped
> the next.  Driving an old MG in these conditions is just not pleasant or
> practical.  
> If conditions were the same as they were in 1970, I would drive an MG as my
> regular car.  It's a different world today.
> 
> Quoting Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>:
> 
>> If you can't make your MG reliable, then maybe.
>> 
>> PaulH.
>>   ----- Original Message -----
>>   If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with Miatas or
>>   S2000s.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 27 10:29:22 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:29:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
In-Reply-To: <015c01c8d841$5d279c50$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C48A6372.18DC5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

The text claimed it had "original overdrive". I didn't see a video.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/27/08 3:22 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> In which case it almost certainly does have a modern 5-speed box instead of
> the original 6-speed ...
> 
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   If you watch the video it says it has AC, power locks, power windows, cruise
>   control, power steering.  Much more of a stretch than 5 speed...

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Jun 27 11:14:46 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 10:14:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <C48A6546.18DC8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
	<C48A6546.18DC8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200806271014i5bf06760y7991096763910f@mail.gmail.com>

I agree.

I had a '74 B (not 74.5) that I bought in Texas and took back to the
UK when I moved back.

Driving up the A14 late at night, I used to regularly cruise over 90
and sometimes took it up to around 110 mph (although it was very noisy
over 100mph).

The only problem was on cold mornings, it would never warm up. That
was solved by covering the oil cooler and half the radiator.

My MGA on the other hand -- the buffeting one gets from the wind makes
freeway driving hard work.

Regards,
Simon

On Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 9:37 AM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I beg to differ. An MGB, at least, is completely at home in modern traffic.
> The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power
> accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, etc. The performance
> is perfectly acceptable, or at least it is for a CBB. I suppose one of the
> seriously power-starved models, like a 75, might seem out of place.
>
> I don't just "keep up" with traffic, I can set the pace if I am inclined.
> The B is far more nimble and maneuverable than the typical too-tall,
> overweight modern vehicle.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Jun 27 11:18:03 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 13:18:03 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
Message-ID: <d07.34cc84a6.35967acb@aol.com>

Which is why I far prefer driving the MGA coupe!
 
Bill

 
 
In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:15:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
simon.d.matthews at gmail.com writes:

My MGA  on the other hand -- the buffeting one gets from the wind makes
freeway  driving hard work.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Jun 27 11:18:37 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 10:18:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] battery cables
In-Reply-To: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
	<015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <40b437200806271018w6b5bff89tca655fe011a41004@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 7:00 AM, Don Scott <DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org> wrote:
> If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with Miatas or
> S2000s.

I don't know about S2000s, but the first time I got into a Miata, I
realized that I would never own one -- the seat simply would not go
far back enough to allow me to straighten my legs. I am not
particularly tall (only 6'), so I assume there is a large proportion
of the population for whom the Miata is not a practical car.

Regards,
Simon

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Jun 27 11:20:30 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 10:20:30 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <d07.34cc84a6.35967acb@aol.com>
References: <d07.34cc84a6.35967acb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200806271020x5a677314gcb73aa2356358a24@mail.gmail.com>

Bill,

I understand, but here in California, I can't really put the top up in
summer -- it is simply too hot. I expect a coupe would be similarly
hot.

Regards,
Simon

On Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 10:18 AM,  <WSpohn4 at aol.com> wrote:
> Which is why I far prefer driving the MGA coupe!
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:15:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com writes:
>
> My MGA  on the other hand -- the buffeting one gets from the wind makes
> freeway  driving hard work.

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Jun 27 11:24:51 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 12:24:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
In-Reply-To: <34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
References: <mailman.17098.1214530840.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
Message-ID: <20080627172440.1304F187663@autox.team.net>

At 07:37 AM 6/27/2008 -0400, dave at camptownshakers.com wrote:
>.... I don't have a oxy/acetylene outfit

You do not need heat to remove a ring gear.

>so I've cut through as far as I can with a hacksaw (the shoulder of 
>the flywheel prevents cutting all the way through).

So far so good.

>Dozens of mightly wacks on a big chisel with a mallet didn't seem to 
>do much though. I was standing the flywheel on edge, on a piece of 
>wood and hitting down. Maybe the wood was absobing too much of the 
>force. Should I have placed the flywheel flat side (engine side)down 
>and tired to split it that way? ....

Forget the mallet and wood block. Those only serve to absorb the 
shock.  Use a cold chisel and a two pound steel hammer.  Cut the ring 
gear about half way through with a hacksaw between teeth (as you 
already did).  Place the chisel tip in the cut, tilt it slightly in 
the direction of one of the gear teeth, and give it a good whack with 
the heavy steel hammer.  It makes no difference what the flywheel is 
sitting on, it could even be suspended in air or sitting on your lap 
(careful what you hit), as the mass of the flywheel acts like an 
anvil.  The ring gear will break without too much effort using the 
heavy steel hammer.

A few articles on ring gear replacement tech:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ft_101.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ft_101a.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ft_101b.htm

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Jun 27 11:26:21 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 13:26:21 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
Message-ID: <d00.34b796d2.35967cbd@aol.com>

Actually it isn't bad. The adjustable vent windows give you some forced  air, 
although like all of them, foot vents would be really nice!
 
In hot weather we use the coupe or put the top up on the MGC.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:20:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
simon.d.matthews at gmail.com writes:


I  understand, but here in California, I can't really put the top up in
summer  -- it is simply too hot. I expect a coupe would be  similarly
hot.

From cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu  Fri Jun 27 12:00:41 2008
From: cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:00:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Vinyl seat cover
Message-ID: <5d427daba9bde00fcb43a63e9f56585b@jcomm.uoregon.edu>

The back portion of the vinyl seat cover on the driver's seat in my 
1980 MGB LE is damaged and I'd like to replace it.  If possible, I'd 
like to avoid spending $450 for an entire seat kit when I only need one 
piece.  It's my understanding that while the seat bottom covers are 
different right to left, the seat back covers are the same for either 
side.
Does anyone a 1977-80 seat back cover they'd like to sell?
If so, please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Charlie Frazer
cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 27 12:20:41 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:20:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] battery cables [practicality/Miatas]
In-Reply-To: <40b437200806271018w6b5bff89tca655fe011a41004@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C48A7D89.18DEA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, it doesn't look that small, but the cockpit is really tight. More like
a Midget than a B. Though I've always been impressed by how many
Santa-shaped fellows manage to fit into bugeyes, I can't imagine that they
would be able to squeeze themselves into Miatas as readily.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 6/27/08 10:18 AM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> On Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 7:00 AM, Don Scott <DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org> wrote:
>> If MG owners were practical, they would replace their MGs with Miatas or
>> S2000s.
> 
> I don't know about S2000s, but the first time I got into a Miata, I
> realized that I would never own one -- the seat simply would not go
> far back enough to allow me to straighten my legs. I am not
> particularly tall (only 6'), so I assume there is a large proportion
> of the population for whom the Miata is not a practical car.
> 
> Regards,
> Simon

From twobees at sprynet.com  Fri Jun 27 13:08:40 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 15:08:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs]  MG practicality
Message-ID: <002601c8d889$364bde00$7b451645@normoffice>

Paul Hunt says, "I love MGs but they are totally impractical! I do drive a
Miata and a Honda."

Paul, I' must strongly disagree - unless you live in an area that requires
a/c 6-months a year & has awful drivers & awful roads like here in Florida.


Before moving south, I lived in Connecticut within commuting distance of
Manhattan.  From 1992 to 1997 my year-round daily driver was a 1980 MGB.  It
was fine except on the highway as it didn't have overdrive.  So, I basically
used it within Connecticut and avoided highways when possible.

In 1997, I bought a 1966 B.  That too was my year-round daily driver,
averaging about 7,500 miles a year.  Once it was modified for vintage
racing, including o.d., it became a real joy to drive, even on long distance
business trips to central Pennsylvania & Upper New England.  Yes, I love
power under my right foot.  That car got me though rush hour traffic on I-95
many times.  It had a "heavy duty" MG clutch, not a real h.d. racing clutch.
So, it was no big deal in stop & go traffic.  And, the idle was 2,000 so it
didn't stall easily.  Great fun.  Great sound.  And conveniences like
electric antenna, good power stereo, enhanced heater for the winter, factory
hardtop, late model seats, the safety of a roll bar and lots of grins while
driving.

During some of those years,my daughter had a Miata.  Cute.  And, great a/c.
But, on the highway - annoying.  Mazda engineers duplicated the airflow over
the windshield of the Lotus Elan.  Gets me right in the forehead.  The vent
windows don't open like the MGB's & the shoulder belts flap against my
shoulder with the top down.  Eventually, she sold the Miata & bought a Saab.
I kept the MGB & drove it constantly & raced it a few times a year until I
moved here.

BTW, it was totally reliable.  Even the 1980 B was more reliable than the
bought-new Toyota Camry.  That thing was the least reliable, most boring car
we ever owned.  Even my non-racing wife got tired of how boring it was.  She
also got tired of how often it left her stranded when the engine died or it
snowed (One of the worst cars in the snow I ever drove.)  She now drives a
sedan with sportiness - a BMW, or my tow vehicle - a BMW X3.  Just can't get
her interested in learning to shift so she can drive the Giulietta Spider or
race the Turner.

Cheers.

Norm

Nomex on.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Jun 27 14:56:31 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 13:56:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
In-Reply-To: <C48A63ED.18DC6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
	<C48A63ED.18DC6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10806271356s671bdb4h78267463896535a6@mail.gmail.com>

No, heating an installed ring gear will heat up the flywheel as well as the
ring gear.  Since both of them are steel they will both expand at the same
rate.
What you will end up with is a very hot flywheel that still has a ring gear
on it.  Not the result you are looking for.  :-)  It has been years since I
did a B flywheel, but cut with the hacksaw and hit it with a bloody big
chisel and hammer always worked for me.


On 6/27/08, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> You are suppose to heat it red hot to get it on, according to the manual.
> Wouldn't it work the same way getting it off?
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim

From twobees at sprynet.com  Fri Jun 27 15:04:42 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 17:04:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <FCCE59B6-CE0B-40E7-8BF1-390FD3B22774@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003f01c8d899$6c49c930$7b451645@normoffice>

So, who did?

The MG Digest has gotten so sloppy-looking & filled with extra lines of
junk, it's easy to mis-read.

My apology to Paul.  But, the comments are to whoever made that quote.


-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Root [mailto:ptrmgb at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:35 PM
To: twobees at sprynet.com
Cc: MG Digest
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG practicality


Paul Hunt doesn't drive a Miata or a Honda. Watch your attributions.  
If I remember correctly, he drives either an MG, and MG or an MG (B  
BGTV8 or ZS). I want all his cars. :-)

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Fri Jun 27 16:05:14 2008
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 23:05:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
Message-ID: <980mFAweo9216S12.1214604314@cmsweb12.cms.usa.net>

My MG is quite practical everyday. However I did find that the traffic in New
England is much friendlier to small cars than the traffic in Nashville.
However, when it snows in Nashville the "all weather" tires on the mgb
(purchased in the northeast US) are much better than the "all weather" tires
(purchased in Tennessee) on the other car. But, as I explained to people in
the UK after moving there from Canada -- it is not driving in the snow that
is
a problem, it is the other drivers who don't know how to drive in the snow
that are a problem.

Douglas

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Fri Jun 27 16:35:19 2008
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 17:35:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?
In-Reply-To: <C48A6372.18DC5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <015c01c8d841$5d279c50$0200a8c0@Three>
	<C48A6372.18DC5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001b01c8d8a6$14527c60$3cf77520$@net>

If you hit the play icon in the middle of the second picture it will play
and there is a lady's voice describing the "features"

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 11:29 AM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Did anyone on the list buy this car?

The text claimed it had "original overdrive". I didn't see a video.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 27 18:21:08 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 19:21:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
References: <980mFAweo9216S12.1214604314@cmsweb12.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <002401c8d8b4$dee3e7d0$7d15a8c0@garage.local>

i applaud those who drive their cars everyday.

i value mine way too much to do that.

Hondas, on the other hand, are dispensible.

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/honda/IMG_1068.JPG

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/honda/IMG_1071.JPG

I love airbags.  I walked away with virtually no injuries.

The accident was not my fault.  The car is totalled.

From Thgun at comporium.net  Fri Jun 27 19:16:43 2008
From: Thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 21:16:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ] MGA control box
References: <20080618064914.BTK20324@ms1.comporium.net>
	<018e01c8d142$74e4fd70$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <000e01c8d8bc$a0b002c0$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9>

  Hi, I have been haqving charging problems with my 1957 MGA ,1500 rst. I have
just replaced my generator and control box. I have checked the wiring to the
control box and gen. When I start the engine my ignition light flashes.  I did
not let the engine run, less than 30 seconds.  I think my batt is charged ok
because it started fine. Do I need to check something else?
  Thanks, Tom Gunderson

From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Fri Jun 27 20:59:15 2008
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 21:59:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
References: <mailman.17098.1214530840.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<34793.52.129.1214566634.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
Message-ID: <003f01c8d8ca$f435a950$e6660143@your55e5f9e3d2>

I change ring gears quite often. What I do is drill a 5/16" hole into the 
side of the ring  as deep as possible without drilling into the lip on the 
flywheel, then hacksaw between the teeth into the drilled hole. I do two 
holes 180 degrees apart. Then comes the large chisel and BFH. A couple good 
wacks ( hit it like you mean it ) and it is off.
    I then deburr the ring mounting surface, making sure it is completely 
smooth. Then I'll throw it into the freezer for at least two hours. Take the 
new ring gear and deburr it also. Then put it into the oven at 350 degrees 
for about one to one and a half hours.YOU DO NOT WANT TO HEAT THE RING GEAR 
RED HOT AS THAT WOULD REMOVE THE TEMPER FRON THE METAL!  The proper 
tempurature is when it just starts to turn blue. Set up a  couple of wood 
blocks  to set the fly wheel onto so it won't rock.  Take the fly wheel from 
the freezer and set it on the wood blocks. Wearing your heavy gloves and 
with two large pliers, take the ring gear from the oven and set it into 
place on the flywheel. Go turn off the oven and close the freezer door. Have 
a beer . The flywheel will then be ready to install
     Two hints. Do a dry run with the ring gear and pliers.
     MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RING GEAR TURNED IN THE PROPER DIRECTION. If you 
don't , then you get more practice doing everything over again.
Ron
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dave at camptownshakers.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 6:37 AM
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal


> Supposed to be fairly straight forward, the shop manual and various notes
> on the internet say pretty much the same thing. I don't have a
> oxy/acetylene outfit so I've cut through as far as I can with a hacksaw
> (the shoulder of the flywheel prevents cutting all the way through).
> Dozens of mightly wacks on a big chisel with a mallet didn't seem to do
> much though. I was standing the flywheel on edge, on a piece of wood and
> hitting down. Maybe the wood was absobing too much of the force. Should I
> have placed the flywheel flat side (engine side)down and tired to split it
> that way? I've never had much luck with chisels.
>
> Dave
> '66 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1521 - Release Date: 6/26/2008 
> 11:20 AM

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jun 28 04:19:49 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 11:19:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
References: <A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F2C@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov><015b01c8d841$5d03e7b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<A85986DEC91F3F428AB8C0740768525144E7A83F38@SC-EXCL02.win.root.sonoma.gov>
	<004201c8d862$84784bd0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<1214580231.486506073b1ee@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <009b01c8d909$74f426f0$0200a8c0@Three>

One has to speak as one finds.  My V8 was my everyday car for several years
driving up to 150 miles per day and I had no problems at all, winter or summer
practicality, reliability or anything else.  In fact in freezing weather one
finds the hard-shoulders of motorways littered with modern cars with the
drivers scratching away at congealed salt and muck on the windscreens because
the washer bottle has frozen up, many being in a totally impractical position
for cold weather and unheated.  Never head that with the MGB.  Yes I know it
is a V8 and not a 4-cylinder, but I rarely drive faster in the V8 than the
roadster as both are well capable of exceeding any speed-limit in the UK.  A
lot of it is down to personal preferences more than practicality.  If one
likes all the modern conveniences of air-con, electric windows, heated seats
and so-on then I'm not surprised people find MGBs 'impractical'.  I have a
modern (2004) MG as well now with those conveniences, but I still prefer
driving both my MGBs.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I love MGs but they are totally impractical!

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jun 28 04:46:46 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 11:46:46 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
References: <C48A63ED.18DC6%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00f501c8d90d$a7bf1820$0200a8c0@Three>

Wouldn't both heat up and expand at the same rate, i.e. remaining stuck as
firmly together as before?  I'm sure I have seen a photo of it being chiselled
off by cutting through from the edge of the flywheel, not its face.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  You are suppose to heat it red hot to get it on, according to the manual.
  Wouldn't it work the same way getting it off?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jun 28 05:22:35 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 12:22:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality
References: <002601c8d889$364bde00$7b451645@normoffice>
Message-ID: <010301c8d911$dc47e5f0$0200a8c0@Three>

Paul Hunt most emphatically does NOT say that, quite the opposite!!

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Paul Hunt says, "I love MGs but they are totally impractical! I do drive a
  Miata and a Honda."

From mg.carma at verizon.net  Sat Jun 28 06:47:46 2008
From: mg.carma at verizon.net (mg.carma)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 08:47:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
Message-ID: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51@verizon.net>

Please, please someone buy this car and bury it somewhere....

but please send the jag bits to someone who wants to put them, oh, I  
don't know......on a JAG?

arrrgh

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___V-12-One-of-a-kind-Custom_W0QQitemZ130233683071QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130233683071&_trksid=p3756.m14.l1308#ebayphotohosting

or

http://tinyurl.com/5eelzk

Or,
Item number:
130233683071


I am now going to vomit.



Kevin

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jun 28 07:35:48 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 23:05:48 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
In-Reply-To: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51@verizon.net>
References: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4B9EDE92-3C08-4935-9273-B55C28C3B6A2@erickson.on.net>

On 28/06/2008, at 10:17 PM, mg.carma wrote:

> Please, please someone buy this car and bury it somewhere....
>
> but please send the jag bits to someone who wants to put them, oh, I
> don't know......on a JAG?

> http://tinyurl.com/5eelzk
>
>

Can I please have it to play with on the track for a while before you  
bury it (a bit heavy and god knows how it would handle... but I bet  
it would be fun having a play).

"2500 lbs., 52/48 wt. bias, estimated 325 HP @ flywheel  
(carburation,ignition,exhaust factors) Crate engine with stock  
injection specs:     284 hp @ 5750 RPM, 294 lb/ft torque @ 4500 RPM"



Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From jkk at adams.net  Sat Jun 28 07:44:22 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 08:44:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
References: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <003401c8d925$125be9d0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Wonder why he didn't just start out with a Cobra kit, that's obviously what 
he wanted. Looks like nice workmanship, though. I bet it'd be fun to tear 
around in for a while, too.

Jim 

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Jun 28 08:40:17 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 10:40:17 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
Message-ID: <bf1.2f244624.3597a751@aol.com>

I can do you one with the same power and 300 lbs. lighter using a turbo  V6.
 
And it would look a heck of a lot better than that automotive wet dream  
conceived by a frustrated 15 year old....it would look like an MGA.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 28/06/2008 6:37:20 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
eric at erickson.on.net writes:

Can I  please have it to play with on the track for a while before you  
bury  it (a bit heavy and god knows how it would handle... but I bet  
it  would be fun having a play).

"2500 lbs., 52/48 wt. bias, estimated 325  HP @ flywheel  
(carburation,ignition,exhaust factors) Crate engine  with stock  
injection specs:     284 hp @ 5750 RPM,  294 lb/ft torque @ 4500 RPM"

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 28 08:52:07 2008
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 07:52:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
In-Reply-To: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <254964.51834.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Sat, 6/28/08, mg.carma <mg.carma at verizon.net> wrote:

> Please, please someone buy this car and bury it
> somewhere....

Aw, you're just one of those damned purists!  :-)

Seriously, I was going to take the MGA out for breakfast this
morning because we finally have summer weather here in the
Northwest (and a week early - summer usually doesn't start
here until July 5th!) but now I'm afraid I might vomit.

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 28 10:30:06 2008
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 09:30:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
References: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <543C74910D504DBE97CE771CD913BBDD@XPS400>

Why does he call it an MG?  It has more Jag and other parts in it than MG 
parts.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "mg.carma" <mg.carma at verizon.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 5:47 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion


> Please, please someone buy this car and bury it somewhere....
>
> but please send the jag bits to someone who wants to put them, oh, I
> don't know......on a JAG?
>
> arrrgh
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___V-12-One-of-a-kind-Custom_W0QQitemZ130233683071QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130233683071&_trksid=p3756.m14.l1308#ebayphotohosting
>
> or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/5eelzk
>
> Or,
> Item number:
> 130233683071
>
>
> I am now going to vomit.
>
>
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ronfineesq at earthlink.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From don at napanet.net  Sat Jun 28 11:01:44 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 09:01:44 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs] MG practicality
In-Reply-To: <010301c8d911$dc47e5f0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <002601c8d889$364bde00$7b451645@normoffice>
	<010301c8d911$dc47e5f0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080628085307.02cd4118@pop.napanet.net>

I'm the guilty party!  Sorry to ruffle feathers.  I still believe what I 
said.  There are other things that come into play also.  When I used to 
drive my MGs as regular transportation, up until early 1990s or so, ithey 
weren't that old ('67 and '74 Bs). So, their needs were not as great just 
due to lack of age and wear.  Parts were really inexpensive due to the 
favorable exchange rate- dollar was at parity to pound for awhile.  And 
they were very inexpensive to buy in the first place, and not needing much 
to keep them running.  So, it's a lot of factors.  Also, I'm older, and 
maybe not as tolerant.
Don Scott

At 03:22 AM 06/28/2008, Paul Hunt wrote:

>Paul Hunt most emphatically does NOT say that, quite the opposite!!
>
>PaulH.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   Paul Hunt says, "I love MGs but they are totally impractical! I do drive a
>   Miata and a Honda."


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1521 - Release Date: 06/26/2008 11:20 AM

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jun 28 12:01:08 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 03:31:08 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
In-Reply-To: <bf1.2f244624.3597a751@aol.com>
References: <bf1.2f244624.3597a751@aol.com>
Message-ID: <616DDEA0-5EF1-424B-B771-7C2A4F4562C1@erickson.on.net>

On 29/06/2008, at 12:10 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

> I can do you one with the same power and 300 lbs. lighter using a  
> turbo  V6.
>
> And it would look a heck of a lot better than that automotive wet  
> dream
> conceived by a frustrated 15 year old....it would look like an MGA.
>

Hey, I didn't say not to bury it - I just wanted to play with it on  
the track for a bit first... THEN he can bury it.

:-)

BTW I am sticking with the four cylinder (no V8 and not even V6 - and  
no turbo) but my frustration at my faster competitors has finally got  
the better of me and I am going 2 litres.  How can you run in an "up  
to 2000cc class" and give the other guys a couple of hundred cc  
advantage.

Ooops, not 2 litre - 1950cc (your honour).

Yes, I reckon I might even give that thing a fright!


Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 28 12:23:52 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 13:23:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA abortion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1214676001.22805.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1214676001.22805.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <72871DD3-2A5F-4637-B562-605ADD7D0A37@sbcglobal.net>

I don't understand why they didn't just buy a Cobra to begin with....


On Jun 28, 2008, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 08:47:46 -0400
> From: "mg.carma" <mg.carma at verizon.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51 at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Please, please someone buy this car and bury it somewhere....
>
> but please send the jag bits to someone who wants to put them, oh, I
> don't know......on a JAG?
>
> arrrgh
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___V-12-One-of-a-kind- 
> Custom_W0QQitemZ130233683071QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZV 
> iewItem?hash=item130233683071&_trksid=p3756.m14.l1308#ebayphotohosting
>
> or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/5eelzk
>
> Or,
> Item number:
> 130233683071
>
>
> I am now going to vomit.
>
>
>
> Kevin

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 28 12:19:02 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 11:19:02 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
In-Reply-To: <D6D202E8-DE7E-4383-A7A1-67DBCF6D9A51@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <C48BCEA6.18E3D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I think this one is too far gone to salvage. The added-on bits are worth a
lot more than the MGA frame.

I am not so much surprised that people feel compelled to build chimeras like
this, as that they expect to sell them. An acutely personal vision such as
this, misguided or not, is unlikely to resonate with anyone else's taste.

I suppose they found that it didn't really make an appealling driver's car,
after all the effort. Pity.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 6/28/08 5:47 AM, mg.carma at mg.carma at verizon.net wrote:

> Please, please someone buy this car and bury it somewhere....
> 
> but please send the jag bits to someone who wants to put them, oh, I
> don't know......on a JAG?
> 
> arrrgh
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___V-12-One-of-a-kind-Custom_W0QQite
> mZ130233683071QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item13023
> 3683071&_trksid=p3756.m14.l1308#ebayphotohosting
> 
> or
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/5eelzk
> 
> Or,
> Item number:
> 130233683071
> 
> 
> I am now going to vomit.
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Jun 28 14:36:42 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 16:36:42 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Abortion
Message-ID: <c81.2d999ab6.3597fada@aol.com>

Only if you get in his way on the track...:-)
 
I'd stay to a bore of 83.5 mm.  I've found anything larger to be  unreliable.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 28/06/2008 11:11:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
eric at erickson.on.net writes:

Ooops,  not 2 litre - 1950cc (your honour).

Yes, I reckon I might even give  that thing a fright!

From dave at camptownshakers.com  Sat Jun 28 18:49:09 2008
From: dave at camptownshakers.com (dave at camptownshakers.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 20:49:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ring gear removal
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1214589601.2796.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1214589601.2796.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1508.71.185.1214700549.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>

Well I finally got it off. I used the method Barney suggested but I didn't
hold it in my lap! This time I placed the flywheel again on edge, but on
the concrete steps in my garage (the wooden block I had been setting it on
before was probably absorbing some of the energy). I took a sharp cold
chisel and placed it in the groove I had already started with a hacksaw.
This time I hit at an angle, not straight down. After a couple of whacks I
remembered to put on safety glasses. After a glancing blow to my hand I
remembered to put on gloves :)

A few more whacks and I noticed a gap growing between the gear and the
shoulder of the flywheel. I used the chisel in the gap to open t a bit
then I was able to just knock the ring gear off in one piece using the
hammer. I suspect I grew the inner diameter of the gear a bit. Thanks for
all the ideas and encouragement. Couldn't resist holding the gear in my
hand and hitting it to hear it ring. Having reached a state of
onomatopoeia I took a break to post. When its time to install the new one
I may borrow my brothers oxyacetylene outfit. He also has one of those
handy pyrometers that could useful in heating it the right amount. On with
the rebuild.......

Dave Culgan
'66 MGB

PS Time to put a plug in for American Automotive machine shop in Newport
Delaware. I dropped off the block and my pistons the other day to see what
needs to be done. Brian and Michael, the owner, are great to work with. I
think Michael has done a fair amount of MG work over the years. I'm
working on a really tight budget and just like my preferred parts
supplier, Jim Knight at British Racing Green in Newark Delaware, they
understand this and tailor their advice to my situation. I'd recommend
them to anyone in this region.

> From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
> Forget the mallet and wood block. Those only serve to absorb the
> shock.  Use a cold chisel and a two pound steel hammer.  Cut the ring
> gear about half way through with a hacksaw between teeth (as you
> already did).  Place the chisel tip in the cut, tilt it slightly in
> the direction of one of the gear teeth, and give it a good whack with
> the heavy steel hammer.  It makes no difference what the flywheel is

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 28 19:18:02 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 18:18:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Calling Elizabeth Jones!
Message-ID: <422028.52253.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Elizabeth, this gentleman would really like to stop by this week and purchase some of the parts you have!

Dan, 
If you haven't been keeping up with the post for your friend with the
parts, I am passing thru San Antonio Tues or Wed with a half loaded
truck and a pocket full of money on my way from Far-Away South Texas to
Virginia. I have e-mailed twice, and no replies. If you have another
contact method, please ask these folks to get with me if I can stop in
for a while. I know its not when she offerred, but its the only chance
I will have, and I will buy all the carbs for Jimmy Hilton in Dallas,
all the blocks and cranks for Hap Waldrop in South Carolina, and all of
the distributors for Jeff Schlemmer. We tried to do the same thing with
the Tidewater deal in Virginia a coupla months ago. 
Please let me know via PM if you can contact her. 
Thanks 
Harry 
214-686-8692 
804-239-4234 
rufus-h at hotmail.com


 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 28 20:07:41 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 19:07:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed
Message-ID: <742844.31280.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Wow, tough going for sure.... Hang in their, we're all thinking of you and your neighbors.....

 Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html



----- Original Message ----
From: James Kleemeyer <jkk at adams.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 12:15:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dan DiBiase


  Hope you're in a high spot, Jim......!


  Dan D


   We're okay.I actually live in the tiny town of Lima on the bluffs
overlooking the flood plain. We're only a mile from the river now since the
levee broke at the dam at Meyer instead of the normal five miles, though. One
of my brothers lives (or lived I guess I should say) in Meyer, he has eight
feet of muddy water in his house. It's not over, either. We got 4-6" of rain
last night that is threatening to collapse several levees that are still
struggling to hold back the river in this area.

  Jim
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From jello at cableone.net  Sun Jun 29 01:28:35 2008
From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:28:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs]  Spridgeteer HELP needed - clutch hydraulics
Message-ID: <1643.1214724515@cableone.net>

   A  friend  of mine is having a hell of a time with his spridget clutch
   hydraulics.  He has a bug-eye sprite, with the old clutch/brake master
   (same  as  an  MGA  or early midget) - but he put in a 1275 engine and
   trans.   Everything  seems to fit except the hydraulic lines.  Looking
   at my MGA, I think he should adopt their system - banjo and banjo bolt
   at the master cyl, and a flex hose at the slave - but he seems to want
   to  go  all  flare end brake lines that should (and have not yet) seat
   and  seal  -  no flexline, but a 3 times around spiral for the rocking
   motion of the car.

   Can  anyone  relay  experience  that says the best way to go with this
   type of conversion/set-up??

   Phil Bates
   On Sat Jun 28 19:07 , Dan DiBiase sent:
   
     Wow,  tough going for sure.... Hang in their, we're all thinking of
     you and your neighbors.....
     Dan D
     Central NJ USA
     '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress...
     '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is....
     NAMGBR #5-2328
     http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
     http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
     http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html 
     ----- Original Message ----
     From: James Kleemeyer <jkk at adams.net >
     To: MG List <mgs at autox.te am.net>
     Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 12:15:09 AM
     Subject: Re: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed
     ----- Original Message -----
     From: Dan DiBiase
     Hope you're in a high spot, Jim......!
     Dan D
     We're okay.I actually live in the tiny town of Lima on the bluffs
     overlooking  the  flood plain. We're only a mile from the river now
     since the
     levee  broke  at the dam at Meyer instead of the normal five miles,
     though. One
     of  my  brothers lives (or lived I guess I should say) in Meyer, he
     has eight
     feet  of  muddy  water  in his house. It's not over, either. We got
     4-6" of rain
     last  night that is threatening to collapse several levees that are
     still
     struggling to hold back the river in this area.
     Jim
     You are subscribed as d_dibiase at y ahoo.com
     Mgs at autox.te am.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
     http://www.team.net/archive
     _______________________________________________
     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
     You are subscribed as jello at cableo ne.net
     Mgs at autox.te am.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
     http://www.team.net/archive

From jello at cableone.net  Sun Jun 29 01:30:18 2008
From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:30:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed - clutch hydraulics
Message-ID: <1759.1214724618@cableone.net>

     A  friend  of  mine  is  having  a hell of a time with his spridget
     clutch   hydraulics.   He  has  a  bug-eye  sprite,  with  the  old
     clutch/brake  master  (same as an MGA or early midget) - but he put
     in  a  1275  engine  and trans.  Everything seems to fit except the
     hydraulic  lines.  Looking at my MGA, I think he should adopt their
     system - banjo and banjo bolt at the master cyl, and a flex hose at
     the  slave  -  but he seems to want to go all flare end brake lines
     that should (and have not yet) seat and seal - no flexline, but a 3
     times around spiral for the rocking motion of the car.

     Can  anyone relay experience that says the best way to go with this
     type of conversion/set-up??

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Sun Jun 29 17:03:40 2008
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 19:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] fouled plugs Why?
Message-ID: <24394205.203211214780621086.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web15-z02>

I need advice.  My 71 BGT has no factory warranty remaining. 

 The engine lost power. Oil presssure reads 40# at idle, engine runs cool, no water in oil, carburators are carbing or whatever they do. 

 Deductive reasoning and process of elimination revealed that the two middle spark plugs were not firing, were blackish and smelled like fuel.  I replaced the two ugly plugs with new spark  plugs.  Other plugs are ok.

The car runs fine now, but I want to know what caused the two spark plugs to go bad.

I am not capable of going beyond simple tune up type work.  Can someone on the list tell me what internal problem might have  caused the two plugs to foul out????

Thanks, Mel

From dkeeble at verizon.net  Sun Jun 29 17:31:16 2008
From: dkeeble at verizon.net (Donna&Doug Keeble)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 18:31:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] fouled plugs Why?
References: <24394205.203211214780621086.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web15-z02>
Message-ID: <48681B44.2000907@verizon.net>

Two plug wires  hooked up to the wrong plugs  (crossed) could certainly 
do it
     

                         Doug

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jun 30 02:06:47 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 09:06:47 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] fouled plugs Why?
References: <24394205.203211214780621086.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web15-z02>
Message-ID: <014c01c8da8a$4dda6700$0200a8c0@Three>

Sounds like they weren't firing.  If this loss of power occurred while *other*
than someone having had the plug leads off for any reason then it could be the
cap breaking down (if the plug leads had been touched before this happened
then it is simply 2 and 3 reversed, the correct firing order is 1-3-4-2
*anti*-clockwise).  As plugs get older they become more difficult to fire, so
the HT voltage gradually increases over their life.  With a marginal cap this
can suddenly cause one or more plugs to stop firing, and changing the plugs is
the only apparent 'cure', even though they may well be well within their life
span.  I had this on my V8 for some time, the problem was being my daily
driver I always had to be somewhere when it happened and couldn't spend time
diagnosing, so had to keep a set ready-gapped in the car.  One day I *did*
have time to diagnose, and clipping a timing light onto the coil lead and each
plug lead in turn and watching it while cranking showed the coil lead flashing
as it should while some plug leads were flashing only occasionally or not at
all.  Changing the cap cured it once and for all.  Incidentally if this test
should show the coil lead flashing as it should but none of the plug leads
then it could be cap or rotor.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
   Deductive reasoning and process of elimination revealed that the two middle
spark plugs were not firing, were blackish and smelled like fuel.  I replaced
the two ugly plugs with new spark  plugs.  Other plugs are ok.

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Jun 30 06:15:18 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 07:15:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG 2008
Message-ID: <48720d20806300515n12663fdft20b4d7f98bf5db89@mail.gmail.com>

I can't believe that no one has used this forum to thank the folks who put
on MG 2008.

IT WAS GREAT!
Everywhere you looked there were host club members easily identified by
their fluorescent green T shirts ready to help answer questions or give
directions.

Every day there was a list of events that were a delight. If one didn't
interest you, there we at least two others to tempt.

I usually don't go to Tech Sessions, but I took Friday to hang out at the
hotel and made them my main activity. That and talking to folks from all
parts of the MG universe. They even had a preview of a not released movie
featuring the restoration of an MG as (at least to all of us), as it's main
theme.

So, thanks again, folks from Philly, we had a great time, which I know was
your plan, and I also hope your reward.

Jack

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Mon Jun 30 13:01:34 2008
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 15:01:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] seats needed
In-Reply-To: <48720d20806300515n12663fdft20b4d7f98bf5db89@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20806300515n12663fdft20b4d7f98bf5db89@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06230908c48edd966b57@[128.151.164.253]>

Hello,  looking for a set of seats for a 67B  do not need to be great 
if they need to be redone that is fine.
any help??
paul
-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Jun 30 14:37:16 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 15:37:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Spridgeteer HELP needed - clutch hydraulics
In-Reply-To: <1759.1214724618@cableone.net>
References: <1759.1214724618@cableone.net>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080630153341.034fbd70@nosimport.com>

If he does not want to use the 1275 flex line, then he should use the 
1098 and earlier slave cylinder. Those early slaves take a standard 
3/16 line with a 3/8-24 single flare, and you do need to coil the 
pipe for flexibility.

The 1275 slave takes a 7/16-20 unflared flexible hose and copper 
gasket. The pipe leading to it is also 1/4" pipe and is adapted at 
the master cylinder from 3/8-24 flare. He'll have a less pleasant 
pedal experience, but others have done it that way.

Peter C
==
At 02:30 AM 6/29/2008, Phil Bates wrote:
>      A  friend  of  mine  is  having  a hell of a time with his spridget
>      clutch   hydraulics.   He  has  a  bug-eye  sprite,  with  the  old
>      clutch/brake  master  (same as an MGA or early midget) - but he put
>      in  a  1275  engine  and trans.  Everything seems to fit except the
>      hydraulic  lines.  Looking at my MGA, I think he should adopt their
>      system - banjo and banjo bolt at the master cyl, and a flex hose at
>      the  slave  -  but he seems to want to go all flare end brake lines
>      that should (and have not yet) seat and seal - no flexline, but a 3
>      times around spiral for the rocking motion of the car.
>
>      Can  anyone relay experience that says the best way to go with this
>      type of conversion/set-up??

From macgroup at comcast.net  Mon Jun 30 21:38:42 2008
From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 20:38:42 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Truisms
Message-ID: <73154104925A48A494F3EDA453DD006F@StusLaptopPC>

I just had to pass this along from another car list I'm on: 

 

"Many years ago I learned to accurately estimate the duration of a project
in

the real world: you simply come up with a measure of how long it should

reasonably take, double that and go to the next unit of time.

Example: Replacing a hose should take three minutes. 3 x 2 = 6 hours.

 

Rebuilding an engine should take two days. Therefore, it will take four

weeks.

 

It's unbelievably accurate."

 

---Jim Felder, from the Vanagon.com mail list.

 

Yes, it is, but it is still optimistic.  I'm starting to think I may have to
go up to astronomical time units!

 

Stuart-STILL waiting to hear about my gas tank.

'65 MGB plus three others that don't run