From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 1 02:27:41 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 09:27:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] clutch hydraulics References: <1759.1214724618@cableone.net> <7.0.1.0.2.20080630153341.034fbd70@nosimport.com> Message-ID: <010a01c8db54$992e66f0$0200a8c0@Three> Came across a good reason *not* to use steel braided hose for the clutch in the MGOC mag just received. Someone was on a tour of Iceland, the starter seemed a bit sluggish, but they couldn't find anything wrong. Eventually the steel braided clutch flex hose split, it was replaced by a non-braided type - then all was revealed. Starting was even worse, and they discovered the gearbox ground strap hadn't been replaced after a clutch job. The steel braided hose was *nearly* as good, hence the starter was only a bit sluggish, but it was causing the clutch hose to get very hot which eventually ruptured the rubber inside. I have to say that when investigating the sluggish starter this would definitely have shown itself as an increased volt-drop between engine and body, but there we are. PaulH. From derek at vandivere.net Tue Jul 1 06:27:05 2008 From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 14:27:05 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Mgs] MGB RIP Message-ID: <3590.212.238.243.108.1214915225.squirrel@vandivere.net> So, after a weekend of working on the damn B to try to get it more reliable (basically, fixed the wiring in fan number two, replaced the coolant, as well as some other minor stuff), it broke down on me last week. Got to work (100km) fine, on the way back started running hot so I pulled over. Added some coolant, waited a bit, then it wouldn't go into gear. Called the roadside service, he pumped some oil into the clutch system, got another five km, and gave up. The temperature gauge never pegged, but I was getting some valve clatter. Waited another half hour for a tow, then decided to try starting it up - lots of valve clatter and lots of beautiful white smoke. Mechanic's taking off the cylinder head tomorrow to see if it's salvageable - otherwise, I guess I have a lot of '78 B parts for sale in Amsterdam... Now I just want to know what the hell I did to the car. I'm sure it's my fault somehow, just not sure. As you can imagine, I've been reading the "MGBs are reliable" thread with some irony. Think I'll shout a few more obscenities now... Derek From RampantNM at aol.com Tue Jul 1 09:22:32 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 11:22:32 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Elizabeth and Fisher Jones Message-ID: Fellow LBCerbs, I received a phone call last night from Elizabeth Jones. Her husband Fisher suffered a heart attack this weekend and is in the hospital in San Antonio. Elizabeth is with him, and he is still in coronary care, but is alert and OK for the time being. A catheterization will be performed as soon as they are sure he is up to it. Since she is at his bedside, Elizabeth has no internet access, and has asked me to inform everyone that she must cancel the sale she had proposed for this weekend. She apologizes to everyone and will reschedule as soon as she can. Many of her friends from the Spridget list were in transit, so she called me as she knew I wasnbt able to attend. I ask that you keep Fisher and Elizabeth in your prayers. Ibm sure she will be sending updates as soon as she is able. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 1 10:32:50 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 09:32:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] clutch hydraulics In-Reply-To: <010a01c8db54$992e66f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CAF44@kb1.mossmotors.com> Paul: Interesting and timely. I've run into many, many cases of the early MGB water temperature capillary tube and also heater cables melting down because the engine ground strap was either missing, incorrectly connected or had poor continuity. I wonder how good of a conductor the braided oil pressure line could be? Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Paul Hunt > Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 1:28 AM > To: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch hydraulics > > Came across a good reason *not* to use steel braided hose for > the clutch in the MGOC mag just received. Someone was on a > tour of Iceland, the starter seemed a bit sluggish, but they > couldn't find anything wrong. Eventually the steel braided > clutch flex hose split, it was replaced by a non-braided type > - then all was revealed. Starting was even worse, and they > discovered the gearbox ground strap hadn't been replaced > after a clutch job. The steel braided hose was *nearly* as > good, hence the starter was only a bit sluggish, but it was > causing the clutch hose to get very hot which eventually > ruptured the rubber inside. I have to say that when > investigating the sluggish starter this would definitely have > shown itself as an increased volt-drop between engine and > body, but there we are. > > PaulH. From rocknatural at gmail.com Tue Jul 1 11:01:48 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2008 12:01:48 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Midget Tail Light Lens Needed Message-ID: <486A62FC.6050606@gmail.com> My friend, Virgil, has a 1500 MG Midget with a broken taillight lens. It's the setup where there are two lights, one on either side of the license plate. It has the long tubular light bulb with the contacts on either end. The contact/holder for the bulb registers on extensions on the clear plastic lens. These tabs are broken off. Can you guys recommend a quick source for one of these lenses or sell us one? -The Roxter -- From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 1 11:37:26 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 10:37:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG Midget Tail Light Lens Needed In-Reply-To: <486A62FC.6050606@gmail.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CAF94@kb1.mossmotors.com> That type of lens is still in production. Moss has them under # 158-915 Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of The Roxter > Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 10:02 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] MG Midget Tail Light Lens Needed > > My friend, Virgil, has a 1500 MG Midget with a broken taillight lens. > It's the setup where there are two lights, one on either side > of the license plate. It has the long tubular light bulb with > the contacts on either end. The contact/holder for the bulb > registers on extensions on the clear plastic lens. These tabs > are broken off. Can you guys recommend a quick source for one > of these lenses or sell us one? > > -The Roxter From macgroup at comcast.net Tue Jul 1 12:31:58 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 11:31:58 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank woes--help me decide! Message-ID: <73C430A23DE348B584198DCFCD7ECA42@StusLaptopPC> Okay folks, here is my choice, and they both cost the same: $360 1. Professional repair: Boil out, repair pick up tube, coat with sealer, two year guarantee. 2. New British Heritage tank and DIY clean, etch and seal. No guarantee. Your opinions appreciated! Stuart '65 MGB From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 1 12:49:08 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 13:49:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank woes--help me decide! References: <73C430A23DE348B584198DCFCD7ECA42@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <000301c8dbab$2745de40$8d8aa8c0@garage.local> the replacement tanks are not quite the same. i have one. of course, my tank had rust holes. i'd go with the refurb. but - if you buy a new one, you can offset the cost by selling the old one. i did, and mine had rust holes in it! guy wanted it anyway! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stuart MacMillan" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 1:31 PM Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank woes--help me decide! > Okay folks, here is my choice, and they both cost the same: $360 > > > > 1. Professional repair: Boil out, repair pick up tube, coat with > sealer, two year guarantee. > 2. New British Heritage tank and DIY clean, etch and seal. No > guarantee. From DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org Tue Jul 1 14:06:12 2008 From: DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org (Don Scott) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 13:06:12 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank woes--help me decide! In-Reply-To: <73C430A23DE348B584198DCFCD7ECA42@StusLaptopPC> References: <73C430A23DE348B584198DCFCD7ECA42@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: Get the old one fixed! You are supporting a local business. You are reducing waste. And most importantly, new repro parts just don't seem to fit right much of the time. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dscott1=sonoma-county.org at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dscott1=sonoma-county.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart MacMillan Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 11:32 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank woes--help me decide! Okay folks, here is my choice, and they both cost the same: $360 1. Professional repair: Boil out, repair pick up tube, coat with sealer, two year guarantee. 2. New British Heritage tank and DIY clean, etch and seal. No guarantee. Your opinions appreciated! Stuart '65 MGB You are subscribed as dscott1 at sonoma-county.org From DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org Tue Jul 1 15:36:40 2008 From: DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org (Don Scott) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 14:36:40 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] clutch hydraulics In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CAF44@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <010a01c8db54$992e66f0$0200a8c0@Three> <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CAF44@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: Not a very conductor. The starter on my MGA was sluggish and I thought it was the culprit. A replacement starter had same symptoms, but my hand happened to brush against the oil pressure line and I noticed it was quite warm after I tried to start the engine. Cleaning the surface contacts on the engine ground strap cured the starter problem. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dscott1=sonoma-county.org at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dscott1=sonoma-county.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dodd, Kelvin Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 9:33 AM To: Paul Hunt; MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch hydraulics Paul: Interesting and timely. I've run into many, many cases of the early MGB water temperature capillary tube and also heater cables melting down because the engine ground strap was either missing, incorrectly connected or had poor continuity. I wonder how good of a conductor the braided oil pressure line could be? Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Paul Hunt > Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 1:28 AM > To: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch hydraulics > > Came across a good reason *not* to use steel braided hose for the > clutch in the MGOC mag just received. Someone was on a tour of > Iceland, the starter seemed a bit sluggish, but they couldn't find > anything wrong. Eventually the steel braided clutch flex hose split, > it was replaced by a non-braided type > - then all was revealed. Starting was even worse, and they discovered > the gearbox ground strap hadn't been replaced after a clutch job. The > steel braided hose was *nearly* as good, hence the starter was only a > bit sluggish, but it was causing the clutch hose to get very hot which > eventually ruptured the rubber inside. I have to say that when > investigating the sluggish starter this would definitely have shown > itself as an increased volt-drop between engine and body, but there we > are. > > PaulH. You are subscribed as dscott1 at sonoma-county.org From Thgun at comporium.net Tue Jul 1 16:02:29 2008 From: Thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 18:02:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] one cylinder plug fouled References: <20080618133627.BTL70638@ms1.comporium.net> Message-ID: <000a01c8dbc6$27fc8fd0$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> How do you test if one plug is not firing? I pulled the wire from one plug and the engine did not change. The plug seemed to be fouled black oil and soot. I changed the plug. I saw the same thing on it after driving about 5 miles. Any Ideas? Tom G. 1500 MGA RST From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Jul 1 16:09:53 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 00:09:53 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] one cylinder plug fouled References: <20080618133627.BTL70638@ms1.comporium.net> <000a01c8dbc6$27fc8fd0$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> Message-ID: This is exactly indicating the failing cylinder. When the revs of the engine change when pulling a plug, this means, at least the spark plug is functioning and provides a spark for burning the fuel mixture. Idea can be as described in my engine overhaul story - lots of room in the valve guide, giving oil the chance to pass to the combustion room. When burning lots of oil, this caused in my engine lots of fauling. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Gunderson" To: Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 12:02 AM Subject: [Mgs] one cylinder plug fouled > How do you test if one plug is not firing? I pulled the wire from one plug > and the engine did not change. The plug seemed to be fouled black oil and > soot. I changed the plug. I saw the same thing on it after driving about 5 > miles. Any Ideas? > Tom G. > 1500 MGA RST From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 2 02:12:53 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 09:12:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] clutch hydraulics References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CAF44@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <007b01c8dc1c$fb41d610$0200a8c0@Three> Any metal-work between engine and body will provide a path to a greater or lesser degree, usually the accelerator, choke and heater cables. These can get damaged as well, but the problem is usually much more obvious if it is just these in circuit. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I've run into many, many cases of the early MGB water temperature capillary tube and also heater cables melting down because the engine ground strap was either missing, incorrectly connected or had poor continuity. I wonder how good of a conductor the braided oil pressure line could be? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 2 02:34:21 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 09:34:21 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] one cylinder plug fouled References: <20080618133627.BTL70638@ms1.comporium.net> <000a01c8dbc6$27fc8fd0$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> Message-ID: <00cb01c8dc1f$14bbad80$0200a8c0@Three> You've done it. If it's oily that sounds like oil contamination is causing the fouling and that is preventing firing. A sooty plug that smells of fuel usually means the plug isn't firing and that is causing the fouling. In the former case a new or clean plug should cause the engine to obviously run better, with the idle changing as you pull the plug lead. In the latter case if it is a problem with the ignition electrics (except the plug itself) the new plug won't make any difference to how the engine runs. If the replaced plug initially works as it should, but fouls with oil in as little as five miles, you have severe oil contamination like from a badly worn valve/guide or broken rings. The former normally comes on gradually, the latter suddenly Have you done a compression test? The former should show near normal compression pressures, the latter reduced pressures. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- How do you test if one plug is not firing? I pulled the wire from one plug and the engine did not change. The plug seemed to be fouled black oil and soot. From RampantNM at aol.com Wed Jul 2 16:20:33 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 18:20:33 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality Message-ID: In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down right now because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I haven't gotten the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but a necessity. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com! (www.tourtracker.com ?NCID=aolmus00050000000112) From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Jul 2 16:44:49 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 17:44:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If I had a BGT, I'd be tempted to have electric windows. Maybe even A/C. But in Minnesota, I'd rather have a Webasto. I can see in the desert though. On Jul 2, 2008, at 5:20 PM, RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power > accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, > > Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down > right now > because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I > haven't gotten > the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but a > necessity. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners > Union > carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly > formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for > experienced hands, > the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected > and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. > > > > > **************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the > live music > scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com! (www.tourtracker.com > ?NCID=aolmus00050000000112) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 2 17:16:53 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2008 16:16:53 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: Message-ID: That's why I don't live in the desert southwest -- it is not a suitable climate for human habitation. I just have to shake my head at the amount of energy and water consumed in the attempt to make it so... Not sure what electric door locks have to do with climate control. on 7/2/08 3:20 PM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > > In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power > accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, > > Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down right now > because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I haven't gotten > the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but a > necessity. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 2 17:26:25 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2008 16:26:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: Message-ID: What is the big deal with electric windows? So, it takes 2 seconds to roll up the window instead of 3.5 seconds? That it saves 3 rotations of your wrist? That you have to halfway extend your right arm to reach the passenger side window? Yeah, if you had a Suburban, without AC (fat chance), you'd need to be able to independently control all the far-flung windows from the driver's seat. But in an MG, I find it just ...unbelievable. If you're that feeble, how can you turn the steering wheel? And you would be completely incapable of operating the (gasp!) manual top. Might as well just buy a Cadillac... IMNSHO... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/2/08 3:44 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote: > If I had a BGT, I'd be tempted to have electric windows. Maybe even A/C. > But in Minnesota, I'd rather have a Webasto. I can see in the desert > though. > > > On Jul 2, 2008, at 5:20 PM, RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > >> In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, >> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: >> >> The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power >> accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, >> >> Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down >> right now >> because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I >> haven't gotten >> the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but a >> necessity. >> >> Regards, >> >> Robert B. Houston >> >> 74.5 MGBGT >> 73 MG Midget From bmcspares at aol.com Wed Jul 2 17:36:31 2008 From: bmcspares at aol.com (British Motor Classics, Ltd) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 16:36:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6B37B8766CC647EDBDB191BB508AAFD2@unknown4c67283> Well Max, we all chose to live in places that others don't want to. I live in Phoenix health reasons and avoid the cold climates like the plague. I just look at the amount of fuel it requires to live in an ice box just to maintain civility and not freeze to death. We too shake our head at the twits who want to live in the arctic type weather... but we're happy that your not here. Jon " the toasty one" PS don't take it personal. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+bmcspares=aol.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+bmcspares=aol.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 4:17 PM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG practicality That's why I don't live in the desert southwest -- it is not a suitable climate for human habitation. I just have to shake my head at the amount of energy and water consumed in the attempt to make it so... Not sure what electric door locks have to do with climate control. on 7/2/08 3:20 PM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > > In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power > accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, > > Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down right now > because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I haven't gotten > the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but a > necessity. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires You are subscribed as bmcspares at aol.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From awhitema at panix.com Wed Jul 2 17:47:56 2008 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 16:47:56 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <895B2D44-BB9C-4AA2-958D-FCDF0537F565@panix.com> On Jul 2, 2008, at 4:26 PM, Max Heim wrote: > What is the big deal with electric windows? > > So, it takes 2 seconds to roll up the window instead of 3.5 > seconds? That it > saves 3 rotations of your wrist? That you have to halfway extend > your right > arm to reach the passenger side window? The biggest advantage about electric windows that I see is that it is less dangerous for the driver. Frankly, reaching over to roll up/down the passenger window is dangerous. You are at some level concentrating on the window (not the driving). Also, the position you must take to adjust the passenger window is non-optimal, it will be more challenging to perform defensive driving maneuvers. It's probably not as unsafe as talking on a phone while driving (or boozing), but it is an increased risk just the same. In my Subaru, I change all 4 windows, all the time. Electric, *driver controlled* windows let me do that. In the MG, the passenger window is up or down and I do not change that state very often. Fortunately, the MG cabin is very effective at producing steady in- cabin air conditions, so I don't feel the need to change the windows much. The Subaru has annoying cabin cross-winds depending on how the much each window is up/down. -- Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/ '75 B (at painter), HIF4 carbs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From ronking at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 2 19:23:21 2008 From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 18:23:21 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Stationary Air Compressors Message-ID: <092d01c8dcab$62597f90$6401a8c0@kingmanxp> In the market for a stationary air compressor, and wondered if anyone had personal experience/thoughts/opinions? Usage will be mainly automotive but haven't ruled out the occasional spray paint job which I understand takes more CFM as well as PSI. Thanks in advance. Ron King '71 MGB From barneymg at mgaguru.com Wed Jul 2 20:50:21 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2008 21:50:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Stationary Air Compressors In-Reply-To: <092d01c8dcab$62597f90$6401a8c0@kingmanxp> References: <092d01c8dcab$62597f90$6401a8c0@kingmanxp> Message-ID: <20080703025007.CAB31187645@autox.team.net> At 06:23 PM 7/2/2008 -0700, Ron King wrote: >In the market for a stationary air compressor, and wondered if >anyone had personal experience/thoughts/opinions? Usage will be >mainly automotive but haven't ruled out the occasional spray paint >job which I understand takes more CFM as well as PSI. Find half a dozen air compressor tech articles starting here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ar101.htm If you are contemplating auto restoration, sanding, grinding, painting, etc, a real 2-HP belt driven compressor is a nice size for a home shop. 2-HP is that largest motor that can run on a 120-volt 20-amp circuit (with a 15-amp plug), drawing about 13-amps under full load, slightly higher on startup. Most of the 2-HP motors can also be wired to run on 240 VAC drawing half the current. Do not be fooled by the "peak horsepower" marketing ploy. If it runs on a 120-vac 15-amp line cord it cannot be more than 2-HP. A real 2-HP slow running belt driven compressor can put out about 9-CFM at 40-PSI, and a bit more than 7-CFM at 90 psi. Common paint sprayers need about 8-CFM at 40 PSI (or less), so a 2-HP compressor can give continuous operation of a spray gun. A small die grinder or 2-inch angle sander can run near contuinuous at 90-PSI. A larger die grinder or 3-inch cut off grinder can run 50% to 70% duty cycle at 90-PSI. A dual-action sander might run continuous at 40-45 PSI in orbital mode, or 50% duty cycle at 90-PSI in high speed circular mode. Running an air ratchet or impact wrench or inflating tires are intermittent operations that need large flow for short time, no problem at all. I have run my home shop for decades on a 2-HP compressor and seldom feel the need for more air. If you're thinking about running a sand blaster continuously you would need at least a 5-HP motor running on 240-VAC with a 2-stage compressor, and same for a high speed circular sander. A real 5-HP 2-stage compressor can do 15 to 19-CFM at 125-PSI, very efficient at higher pressure. The larger capacity compressors also come with larger air tanks, and you can cram a lot of air into a larger tank at higher pressure. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 2 21:02:19 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 22:02:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] car for sale References: <060a01c89d93$a8aea3f0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <006201c8dcb9$a8fe07a0$e91f10ac@garage.local> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ i apologize; this is totally off topic mg content: if i get this car out of here i might be able to get my 73 mgb od tranny rebuilt! From eric at erickson.on.net Thu Jul 3 04:34:41 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 20:04:41 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <581FFF6A-4646-4A55-B925-D8BA9A67C37A@erickson.on.net> On 03/07/2008, at 8:46 AM, Max Heim wrote: > That's why I don't live in the desert southwest -- it is not a > suitable > climate for human habitation. I just have to shake my head at the > amount of > energy and water consumed in the attempt to make it so... >> 105 means lovely, balmy evenings for cruising in the hills or along the beach (top ... who uses the top???)! Snow... brrrrrrr I have only experienced snow and freezing temperatures once and that was for a few months in Chicago. Now THAT is weather/temperature unfit for human habitation - but it seems lots of people survive it and some even enjoy it. Go figure. It is hovering around 45F+ here and I am finding it pretty uncomfortable (wearing too many clothes and using up too much electricity keeping warm). A nice, dry 110F and a cold beer is a joy to behold but 110F sun beating down on your head in a topless car can get a little uncomfortable... and can make you fixated on the temperature gauge... so you make sure you leave the evenings for cruising. :-) Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Jul 3 07:44:16 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 06:44:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality Message-ID: <920950.12648.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Wow, that's pretty harsh Max. But I guess it's ok where you are, as long as you don't mind wildfires, the occasional earthquake and - oh yes, Californians..... ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Max Heim To: MG List Sent: Wednesday, July 2, 2008 7:16:53 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG practicality That's why I don't live in the desert southwest -- it is not a suitable climate for human habitation. I just have to shake my head at the amount of energy and water consumed in the attempt to make it so... Not sure what electric door locks have to do with climate control. on 7/2/08 3:20 PM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > > In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power > accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, > > Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down right now > because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I haven't gotten > the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but a > necessity. From rolindsay at yahoo.com Thu Jul 3 08:59:43 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 07:59:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: <920950.12648.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <324353.47058.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Guys, in reading these notes I have come to one conclusion; Aren't we damned lucky that we're not all the same?! Otherwise, we'd all be crowded into one spot on the planet! :-P rick - in steamy Houston PS: My M-B C300 is really practical. :-) From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Jul 3 09:14:14 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 10:14:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs Message-ID: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com> MG (SAIC) makes the rumor mill here in the backwoods. From eric at erickson.on.net Thu Jul 3 09:29:50 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 00:59:50 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! Message-ID: <876BD80F-06C0-4790-BC2A-239ECB82A965@erickson.on.net> Guy, some advice, please. After years of developing (yes, mostly by guesswork) the four-banger - and resisting the urge to go V8 (I really want to win stuff in the "up to 2000cc class) - I recently decided I was banging my head against a brick wall if I keep competing against 2 litre cars in my 1840cc beast. Even with expensively ported head, better cam, extractors, "worked" carby etc etc.! Now what was that again? There is no replacement for displacement? So the obvious choice was to throw caution to the wind and head as close to 2 litres as I can - yep 1950cc (or 1940... or whatever). The VERY big bore. BUT I am reading so many opinions and contrary opinions on this "modification". I am aware of all of the pitfalls as far as flexing and wall thickness etc. But then I read the following treatise which raises other issues (and again, includes conflicting opinions/ experiences) - lovely little article. http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/ right_tune2.html Oh yeah, and then I "trip over" a stroker crank (believe it or not) and I think this project is destined to happen. The car is used less and less as a road car but I still do drive it on the streets. And there is still the chance that I will drive rather than trailer it interstate for the odd competition event. My aim? Greater acceleration, top end speed and torque (yes, I want it all and I want it NOW). What do you think? Go for it? It is only money, right? Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Jul 3 09:37:52 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 16:37:52 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> There's been so many missed production starting dates that I shall only believe it when I see volume production and cars for sale in dealers. On park assist Top Gear demonstrated this last year with a Lexus - or rather demonstrated how not to do it. Richard Hammond pushed various buttons and the car started to move and steer under its own steam, then proceeded to crash into the stage scenery - twice. They then 'discovered' they should have been positioning a little square on the TV screen where they wanted the car to end up. Even then it only got it half in. Strikes me more development is required. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5_0Q3OU7tI PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- MG (SAIC) makes the rumor mill here in the backwoods. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Jul 3 09:52:49 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 11:52:49 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! Message-ID: Eric, if you ever want to run your car in the manner you have been, this is not the crank for you. Have you ever driven a Triumph with the old wet liner 2 litre engine? It redlines at 5000 which can be pushed to 6000 with some tuning. That is what you would be getting yourself in for, and engine that does have more torque, but was limited to 6000 rpm. If you are OK with that, by all means go for it. If you eventually want to develop more power, that means running more cam and a higher rpm limit than the stroker crank will allow. The 1950 cc engines last very well - I've been using one for the last 28 years! But don't bother with the Lotus pistons, if you are going to do it, do it right and buy flat top pistons in the correct size. They are available as special order from a number of sources. As the article you cited on the MG Owners Club site indicated, breathing becomes an issue with larger displacement and the MSX heads aren't all the sellers make them out to be (there should be an article forthcoming on this in the fall) and require substantial modification to flow well. You could try and find one of the old HRG competition series heads, but they are as common as chicken teeth. Better to build a 1950 cc engine and spend any additional money on head work (modification or replacement) IMHO. Bill In a message dated 7/3/2008 8:30:04 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, eric at erickson.on.net writes: Oh yeah, and then I "trip over" a stroker crank (believe it or not) and I think this project is destined to happen. The car is used less and less as a road car but I still do drive it on the streets. And there is still the chance that I will drive rather than trailer it interstate for the odd competition event. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Jul 3 09:44:38 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 16:44:38 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! References: <876BD80F-06C0-4790-BC2A-239ECB82A965@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <011b01c8dd24$ddceae10$0200a8c0@Three> Engineering beats simple displacement every time. *Engineered* displacement - now that's a different matter. After having driven a number of supercars and an F1 I came to the conclusion long ago that there is never enough power, what blows your socks off at first go you start getting used to, then you wish it had just a little bit more. So I stick with my cars just as they are. But don't let that stop you :o) PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Now what was that again? There is no replacement for displacement? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Jul 3 10:11:25 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 11:11:25 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs In-Reply-To: <010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com> <010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Yeah, I read that and just thought about how much money is spent on letting people be bad drivers. Why not just teach parallel parking? I fall out of practice when I don't do it often, but I can always get it done on the second try if I mess up the first time. Even in my wife's station wagon. I suppose the answer lies in the US's penchant for oversized vehicles to carry 1 person 95% of the time. I really do hope that MG will finally get going, even as a Chinese company. I figured 2010 will be my next new (at least to me) car. My oldest will be 16, and I'll give him the Subaru. It'd be great to replace it with an octagon badged car. On Jul 3, 2008, at 10:37 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > There's been so many missed production starting dates that I shall > only believe it when I see volume production and cars for sale in > dealers. > > On park assist Top Gear demonstrated this last year with a Lexus - > or rather demonstrated how not to do it. Richard Hammond pushed > various buttons and the car started to move and steer under its own > steam, then proceeded to crash into the stage scenery - twice. They > then 'discovered' they should have been positioning a little square > on the TV screen where they wanted the car to end up. Even then it > only got it half in. Strikes me more development is required. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5_0Q3OU7tI > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > > MG (SAIC) makes the rumor mill here in the backwoods. From eric at erickson.on.net Thu Jul 3 10:19:43 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 01:49:43 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! In-Reply-To: <011b01c8dd24$ddceae10$0200a8c0@Three> References: <876BD80F-06C0-4790-BC2A-239ECB82A965@erickson.on.net> <011b01c8dd24$ddceae10$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <9AD56379-DCFD-443A-AEF6-367F355DED61@erickson.on.net> Paul Hunt wrote: > Engineering beats simple displacement every time. *Engineered* > displacement - now that's a different matter. > > After having driven a number of supercars and an F1 I came to the > conclusion long ago that there is never enough power, what blows > your socks off at first go you start getting used to, then you wish > it had just a little bit more. So I stick with my cars just as > they are. But don't let that stop you :o) > You guys!!!! - all I need is an "extra few seconds per lap"! There are three magic "milestones" at our track. 1:40.00 - which I did after the first engine re-build (flat tops/high compression). All the purists say this is impossible for a "non- modified" MGB so that got me more closely scrutinised and bumped up a class. 1:30.00 - which I almost did after suspension work and limited slip diff (1:31.07) - frustratingly close. After almost ten years of competing in the same car my times have come down from 1:47.00 to 1:31.07 BUT the "real" competitors are in the 1:20's (a rare place for a normally aspirated 4 cylinder MGB on road tyres - and not significantly lightened... i.e. not a "race" car). And I am soooo close but in two years I cannot get there as I am. Hence the 1950cc overbore. Oh yeah - the next milestone? 1:20.00 - V8's, turbo's, slick tyres, race cars. Maybe one day before i die :-) Bill wrote: > Better to build a 1950 cc engine and spend any additional > money on head work (modification or replacement) IMHO. > My "new" head has been "gas-flowed" to 160HP by the previous owner that was running 2 litre and home-made fuel injection. Look at the above figures... he was doing 1:28.00 or better. Why isn't he using this head now? Yep, he has gone V8... as a wise man once said - "you just wish it had a little more". You know I just want encouragement, don't you? I turn fifty in a year and a half... I have a milestone or two to meet before then! All comments/advice noted. I will let you know what I come up with. Thanks Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Jul 3 10:26:39 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 09:26:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs Message-ID: <21385.34813.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: Paul Root ; MG List Sent: Thursday, July 3, 2008 11:37:52 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs There's been so many missed production starting dates that I shall only believe it when I see volume production and cars for sale in dealers. On park assist Top Gear demonstrated this last year with a Lexus - or rather demonstrated how not to do it. Richard Hammond pushed various buttons and the car started to move and steer under its own steam, then proceeded to crash into the stage scenery - twice. They then 'discovered' they should have been positioning a little square on the TV screen where they wanted the car to end up. Even then it only got it half in. Strikes me more development is required. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5_0Q3OU7tI ------------------------------------------------ More development of the Top Gear crew's brains, in all likelihood. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 3 10:42:41 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 09:42:41 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! In-Reply-To: <876BD80F-06C0-4790-BC2A-239ECB82A965@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: I don't know anything about this particular solution, but strokers are all the rage among the muscle car crowd these days. Why? Displacement and torque. More torque at lower RPM means less stress on the valve train, allowing less expensive components on top -- more bang per buck. But it doesn't sound like you want to give up any top end. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/3/08 8:29 AM, Eric Erickson at eric at erickson.on.net wrote: > Guy, some advice, please. > > After years of developing (yes, mostly by guesswork) the four-banger > - and resisting the urge to go V8 (I really want to win stuff in the > "up to 2000cc class) - I recently decided I was banging my head > against a brick wall if I keep competing against 2 litre cars in my > 1840cc beast. Even with expensively ported head, better cam, > extractors, "worked" carby etc etc.! > > Now what was that again? There is no replacement for displacement? > > So the obvious choice was to throw caution to the wind and head as > close to 2 litres as I can - yep 1950cc (or 1940... or whatever). > The VERY big bore. > > BUT I am reading so many opinions and contrary opinions on this > "modification". I am aware of all of the pitfalls as far as flexing > and wall thickness etc. But then I read the following treatise which > raises other issues (and again, includes conflicting opinions/ > experiences) - lovely little article. > > http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/ > right_tune2.html > > Oh yeah, and then I "trip over" a stroker crank (believe it or not) > and I think this project is destined to happen. > > The car is used less and less as a road car but I still do drive it > on the streets. And there is still the chance that I will drive > rather than trailer it interstate for the odd competition event. > > My aim? Greater acceleration, top end speed and torque (yes, I want > it all and I want it NOW). > > What do you think? Go for it? It is only money, right? > > > Eric > '68 MGB MkII > Adelaide, South Australia From mgbob at juno.com Thu Jul 3 13:23:59 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 15:23:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality Message-ID: <20080703.154052.3896.6.MGBOB@juno.com> I' am curious about the AC, though not needing or wanting one for my cars in New England. How much power does it take to run the thing? How well does it cool and lower humidity? 20 years ago I was beside a rubber-bumper Midget at a stoplight in Sarasota FL. It had an AC that must have been making great amounts of cold, as there was condensation all over the top, windshield and door windows; the condensation was on the outside surface. One wonders how much power was available at the rear wheels. Bob On Wed, 2 Jul 2008 18:20:33 EDT RampantNM at aol.com writes: > In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power > accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, > > Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down > right now > because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I > haven't gotten > the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but > a > necessity. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > ____________________________________________________________ Play it loud with a new car stereo! Click here! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3n6nDlJltO4MtQXT3UjeCMpiHNT1QJnADBCFcTv7EySj9fWt/ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Jul 3 14:04:18 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 13:04:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality Message-ID: <385191.90289.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ----- Original Message ---- From: Bob Howard To: RampantNM at aol.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 3, 2008 3:23:59 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG practicality I' am curious about the AC, though not needing or wanting one for my cars in New England. How much power does it take to run the thing? How well does it cool and lower humidity? 20 years ago I was beside a rubber-bumper Midget at a stoplight in Sarasota FL. It had an AC that must have been making great amounts of cold, as there was condensation all over the top, windshield and door windows; the condensation was on the outside surface. One wonders how much power was available at the rear wheels. Bob -------------------------- Great, so now the car can rust from the inside-out too!!! ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From rocknatural at gmail.com Thu Jul 3 14:51:10 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 15:51:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality In-Reply-To: <20080703.154052.3896.6.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080703.154052.3896.6.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <486D3BBE.3000608@gmail.com> Bob Howard wrote: > I' am curious about the AC, though not needing or wanting one for my > cars in New England. > How much power does it take to run the thing? How well does it cool > and lower humidity? > 20 years ago I was beside a rubber-bumper Midget at a stoplight in > Sarasota FL. It had an AC that must have been making great amounts of > cold, as there was condensation all over the top, windshield and door > windows; the condensation was on the outside surface. One wonders how > much power was available at the rear wheels. I don't have any answers, but this discussion did bring up this comment from me to the group: I have an MGB with A/C stored in the local salvage yard. The front end got crushed in a wreck, but the engine and drive train are pretty well intact. Somebody cut the hoses before I acquired it, and I don't know what effect that might have on the possibility of making it work again. I doubt that I will ever try to do it myself, but I'm willing to sell it as is or break it down. -The Roxter -- From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 3 14:57:33 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 15:57:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! References: Message-ID: <02c201c8dd4f$6b1c97d0$6401a8c0@Larry> Strokers are great for the muscle car crowd because they give them that low-end torque that gives them that kick in the seat of the pants when they take off -- and makes it easier to make a brilliant display of smoking their tires -- as they are so wont to do. Road racers live at the other end of the rpm spectrum. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Heim" To: "MG List" Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 11:42 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! I don't know anything about this particular solution, but strokers are all the rage among the muscle car crowd these days. Why? Displacement and torque. More torque at lower RPM means less stress on the valve train, allowing less expensive components on top -- more bang per buck. But it doesn't sound like you want to give up any top end. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/3/08 8:29 AM, Eric Erickson at eric at erickson.on.net wrote: > Guy, some advice, please. > > After years of developing (yes, mostly by guesswork) the four-banger > - and resisting the urge to go V8 (I really want to win stuff in the > "up to 2000cc class) - I recently decided I was banging my head > against a brick wall if I keep competing against 2 litre cars in my > 1840cc beast. Even with expensively ported head, better cam, > extractors, "worked" carby etc etc.! > > Now what was that again? There is no replacement for displacement? > > So the obvious choice was to throw caution to the wind and head as > close to 2 litres as I can - yep 1950cc (or 1940... or whatever). > The VERY big bore. > > BUT I am reading so many opinions and contrary opinions on this > "modification". I am aware of all of the pitfalls as far as flexing > and wall thickness etc. But then I read the following treatise which > raises other issues (and again, includes conflicting opinions/ > experiences) - lovely little article. > > http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/ > right_tune2.html > > Oh yeah, and then I "trip over" a stroker crank (believe it or not) > and I think this project is destined to happen. > > The car is used less and less as a road car but I still do drive it > on the streets. And there is still the chance that I will drive > rather than trailer it interstate for the odd competition event. > > My aim? Greater acceleration, top end speed and torque (yes, I want > it all and I want it NOW). > > What do you think? Go for it? It is only money, right? > > > Eric > '68 MGB MkII > Adelaide, South Australia You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Thu Jul 3 15:10:34 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 21:10:34 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] MG practicality Message-ID: Bob, I will be able to tell you that in a couple of months. I'm putting A/C in my '61 Mercedes Ponton. It has a whopping 68hp in a heavier car. I'll use the old Chevy Vega trick of a full throttle switch that disconnects the compressor clutch when you need WOT power. Rick ------Original Message------ From: Bob Howard Sender: mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net To: RampantNM at aol.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Jul 3, 2008 2:23 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG practicality I' am curious about the AC, though not needing or wanting one for my cars in New England. How much power does it take to run the thing? How well does it cool and lower humidity? 20 years ago I was beside a rubber-bumper Midget at a stoplight in Sarasota FL. It had an AC that must have been making great amounts of cold, as there was condensation all over the top, windshield and door windows; the condensation was on the outside surface. One wonders how much power was available at the rear wheels. Bob On Wed, 2 Jul 2008 18:20:33 EDT RampantNM at aol.com writes: > In a message dated 6/27/2008 10:40:57 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > The only things it lacks are superficial distractions like power > accessories, cupholders, heated seats, climate control, > > Apparently you don't live in the desert southwest. My MG is down > right now > because I'm installing electric windows and door locks, and I > haven't gotten > the AC going yet. Climate control at 105 is not a distraction, but > a > necessity. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > ____________________________________________________________ Play it loud with a new car stereo! Click here! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3n6nDlJltO4MtQXT3UjeCMpiHNT1QJnADBCFcTv7EySj9fWt/ You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Jul 3 19:08:11 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 21:08:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] 2008 VENTURA BRITISH CAR SHOW - July 27th - Oxnard Message-ID: <3994859.1215133691571.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net> The Central Coast British Car Club Presents: THE EIGHTEENTH ANNUAL VENTURA COUNTY BRITISH CAR SHOW Channel Islands Harbour * July 27th, 2008 Join us for a great afternoon at our wonderful waterfront location at the Channel Islands Harbour. This year we are honoring the Austin Healey marque, featuring the 50th anniversary of the Bugeye Sprite. There will be food, entertainment, vendors, and a swap meet and some of the finest British Cars in Southern California. Oxnard is but a short and lovely drive up the coast from Los Angeles b Come to Oxnard, enjoy the show, enjoy the ride, be back by supper b SEE YOU THERE!!! Website: www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com INFORMATION: Gary Rice (805) 644-3290 Bill Guzman (805) 484-1528 ******************************************************* From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jul 4 01:14:22 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 08:14:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com> <010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> Ironically parallel parking has become part of the UK driving test in recent years. But I'm right with you on your first sentence, park assist is just pure laziness, so many other 'driver aids' may well have safety implications but they each remove the driver another step from being responsible for their actions and reduce the driving experience to little more than sitting on the couch watch TV, with all the lack of attention that implies. We can't be that far away from a driver suing a manufacturer because his 'lane wander' warning system didn't wake him up in time to avoid an accident. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Yeah, I read that and just thought about how much money is spent on letting people be bad drivers. Why not just teach parallel parking? From eric at erickson.on.net Fri Jul 4 01:52:41 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 17:22:41 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs In-Reply-To: <00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com> <010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> <00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <486DD6C9.5020700@erickson.on.net> Paul Hunt wrote: > Ironically parallel parking has become part of the UK driving test in recent > years. It has ALWAYS been a part of the Australian driving test (and one that catches lots of kids out). My instructor knew where the tester was going to make me parallel park and taught me to glance out at the reflection in the big shop window opposite to see how far I was from the other cars :-) Surely you do "hill starts" (hand brake starts) in your tests as well? Eric From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jul 4 02:02:30 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 09:02:30 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com><010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three><00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> <486DD6C9.5020700@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <012401c8ddad$4b56ce80$0200a8c0@Three> There are lots of things in the UK test, including hill starts and a written pre-test. When I was learning with a driving school they refused to take me over the test route saying I wouldn't be driving just that after I had passed, and they were going to teach me how to drive not just how to pass my test. On the day of the test the instructor said "When the examiner comes for you if he is a decent bloke I'll give you thumbs up". When the examiner arrived he was looking pointedly out of the window (bastard!). Maybe he hoped I would fail and so have me buy more lessons, but I passed. The hill-start was very severe - pulling out of a T-junction where both the leg and arms of the T were at a 1 in 3 gradient, immediately before a bridge over a canal with a blind crest. It was so severe and caused so many accidents that eventually it was made one-way going downwards only for all traffic. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Eric Erickson To: MG List Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 8:52 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs Paul Hunt wrote: > Ironically parallel parking has become part of the UK driving test in recent > years. It has ALWAYS been a part of the Australian driving test (and one that catches lots of kids out). My instructor knew where the tester was going to make me parallel park and taught me to glance out at the reflection in the big shop window opposite to see how far I was from the other cars :-) Surely you do "hill starts" (hand brake starts) in your tests as well? Eric _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From derek at vandivere.net Fri Jul 4 02:24:45 2008 From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 10:24:45 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs In-Reply-To: <00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com> <010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> <00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <37381.170.252.72.61.1215159885.squirrel@vandivere.net> Similarly, here in Holland I've heard that using a nav system is about to be part of the driving test. I wonder how they'd react if you just pulled over at a gas station to ask directions? I have noticed that my fiancie, who's never driven in Amsterdam without our TomTom, is absolutely hopeless without it - they really shut off part of your brain. Going to see the B this afternoon - turns out the engine is completely shot, almost certainly my fault. Looks like there's a few engines available for about EUR 900. Since the B needs a new front bumper (still waiting on the insurance payment) and I was half-planning on converting it to chrome bumpers next year (around EUR 4,000), I was thinking about just stripping this one for parts and importing a CBB from the States (might end up being cheaper in total, since I have a convertible-freak father in the States who'd be happy to help with logistics). Anyone have any words of wisdom on that potential plan? Derek > Ironically parallel parking has become part of the UK driving test in > recent > years. But I'm right with you on your first sentence, park assist is just > pure laziness, so many other 'driver aids' may well have safety > implications > but they each remove the driver another step from being responsible for > their > actions and reduce the driving experience to little more than sitting on > the > couch watch TV, with all the lack of attention that implies. We can't be > that > far away from a driver suing a manufacturer because his 'lane wander' > warning > system didn't wake him up in time to avoid an accident. > > PaulH. From derek at vandivere.net Fri Jul 4 02:26:36 2008 From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 10:26:36 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs In-Reply-To: <486DD6C9.5020700@erickson.on.net> References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com> <010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> <00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> <486DD6C9.5020700@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <61087.170.252.72.61.1215159996.squirrel@vandivere.net> Teenage humiliation: first time I took the driving test, I was at the very end, finished parallel parking, and didn't realize the car was still in reverse when I tried to pull out. They actually do hill starts as part of the test here in Amsterdam, believe it or not - on the bridges over the canals. > Paul Hunt wrote: >> Ironically parallel parking has become part of the UK driving test in >> recent >> years. > > It has ALWAYS been a part of the Australian driving test (and one that > catches lots of kids out). > > My instructor knew where the tester was going to make me parallel park > and taught me to glance out at the reflection in the big shop window > opposite to see how far I was from the other cars :-) > > Surely you do "hill starts" (hand brake starts) in your tests as well? > > > > > Eric > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as derek at vandivere.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jul 4 02:49:05 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 09:49:05 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com><010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three><00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> <37381.170.252.72.61.1215159885.squirrel@vandivere.net> Message-ID: <015101c8ddb3$b4d9db80$0200a8c0@Three> Lots of stories of that here, like trucks going down little more than farm tracks and getting stuck for 3 days before being towed out, people putting a town name in (instead of a postcode) and ending up hundreds of miles away from where they should be, and people getting stuck in fords in wet weather because the sat nav didn't tell them the water was deep! The sat nav companies claim they can't take unsuitable roads out of the system, but if they can cope with one-way streets I don't see why they can't take roads out altogether. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... without our TomTom, is absolutely hopeless without it - they really shut off part of your brain. From derek at vandivere.net Fri Jul 4 03:01:08 2008 From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 11:01:08 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs In-Reply-To: <015101c8ddb3$b4d9db80$0200a8c0@Three> References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com><010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three><00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> <37381.170.252.72.61.1215159885.squirrel@vandivere.net> <015101c8ddb3$b4d9db80$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <30557.170.252.72.61.1215162068.squirrel@vandivere.net> One of the major brands shows my one-way street as two-way (of course, this being Amsterdam, people drive the wrong way down the street all the time anyway). I've had arguments with people where they insist it's a two way street because the GPS tells them so - as we stand in front of a one-way sign! > Lots of stories of that here, like trucks going down little more than farm > tracks and getting stuck for 3 days before being towed out, people putting > a town name in (instead of a postcode) and ending up hundreds of miles > away from where they should be, and people getting stuck in fords in wet > weather because the sat nav didn't tell them the water was deep! The sat > nav companies claim they can't take unsuitable roads out of the system, > but if they can cope with one-way streets I don't see why they can't take > roads out altogether. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > ... without our TomTom, is absolutely hopeless > without it - they really shut off part of your brain. From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Fri Jul 4 07:41:59 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 06:41:59 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs References: <6CF04C59-C570-4861-A160-18B5E06C7BE4@gmail.com><010b01c8dd22$da24a3c0$0200a8c0@Three> <00a401c8dda6$feaba2f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Parallel parking use to be part of the driving test in Californian but they dropped it from the skill test years ago. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Paul Root" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 12:14 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Savvy Shopping: Park assist, pick-ups and MGs > Ironically parallel parking has become part of the UK driving test in > recent > years. From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Fri Jul 4 13:25:14 2008 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 15:25:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Pertronix and overheating in MGA Message-ID: <591475EB-D45D-4927-9A89-BC360B75DC11@tampabay.rr.com> Listers, The Pertronix instructions infer that the ignition timing should be reset after installation of the Ignitor. This was not done, as the sales pitch is that the Ignitor is a direct (and immediately reversible) replacement, and it is not obvious how replacing points can advance the ignition. The engine is not pinging, but it does idle faster, and there is now an overheating tendency on warmer days. Does anyone have any experience with the Ignitor in this regard? The car is a 1600 MGA 1960. TIA Dave Houser From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Jul 4 15:06:31 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 14:06:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Pertronix and overheating in MGA In-Reply-To: <591475EB-D45D-4927-9A89-BC360B75DC11@tampabay.rr.com> References: <591475EB-D45D-4927-9A89-BC360B75DC11@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: Retarded timing will result in a more energy being put into the coolant and less power to the wheels. Advancing the ignition will result in more power to the wheels and less energy being put into the coolant. Sounds like your timing is retarded. If the igniter is phased just a bit different the timing will be off. Hope this helps, Rick On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 12:25 PM, W. David Houser wrote: > Listers, > The Pertronix instructions infer that the ignition timing should be > reset after installation of the Ignitor. This was not done, as the > sales pitch is that the Ignitor is a direct (and immediately > reversible) replacement, and it is not obvious how replacing points > can advance the ignition. The engine is not pinging, but it does idle > faster, and there is now an overheating tendency on warmer days. Does > anyone have any experience with the Ignitor in this regard? The car is > a 1600 MGA 1960. > TIA > Dave Houser > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Jul 5 07:54:21 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 14:54:21 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Pertronix and overheating in MGA References: <591475EB-D45D-4927-9A89-BC360B75DC11@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: <00d501c8dea8$837e65b0$0200a8c0@Three> The timing should always be *checked* after changing or adjusting the trigger, and this includes fitting a new set of points in place of an old one as well as replacing points with an electronic trigger or electronic ignition of any type. The timing is very sensitive to the rotational position of the trigger, points or Pertronix, and while they can claim it is a reversible replacement they don't claim it will give identical timing, which is why they infer that the timing should be reset. FTFM! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... it is not obvious how replacing points can advance the ignition. From dannyvarnado at cox.net Sat Jul 5 08:45:15 2008 From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 07:45:15 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windsheild frame Message-ID: <000701c8dead$c150b6e0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Are MGB windshield frames painted, plated, or just bare aluminum? What is the best method of restoring one? Mine is very dull and I would like to make it like new again. Thanks, Danny V. '58 MGA Daily Driver '76 MGB V-6 project (almost finished) From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Jul 5 08:59:29 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 00:29:29 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! In-Reply-To: <02c201c8dd4f$6b1c97d0$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <02c201c8dd4f$6b1c97d0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: On 04/07/2008, at 6:27 AM, Larry Daniels wrote: > Strokers are great for the muscle car crowd because they give them > that > low-end torque that gives them that kick in the seat of the pants > when they > take off -- and makes it easier to make a brilliant display of > smoking their > tires -- as they are so wont to do. > Not that there is anything wrong with that! :-) > Road racers live at the other end of the rpm spectrum. > OK, I am taking all of this in (really, I am) so I have another question, what is killing the top end rpm-ability (tech term) and is there a way to solve this? Is it a "breathing" issue? Is this a job for head-work or I am I trying to fix an issue that is solved by not going there in the first place? I will suggest that my home (and therefore most frequented) track that is the home of all events for the annual series I compete in is mostly short squirts and corners. Even the longest straight sees me in fourth for only a number of seconds and I certainly don't run near the top of that gear, Most of the time and most of each lap is spent braking hard and then accelerating out of the corner, which is where the 'B frustrates me because it certainly rakes a little while to get up to speed after dropping down so slow. What I am getting at, of course, is that I really am looking for bottom end torque and even some "kick in the seat of the pants" take- off to get me out of those corners. So, can I get me a little of both with the bottom end grunt AND some long legs on the straight? Maybe someone can analyse the track from this video of mine and offer suggestions (no, I really am not trying to justify using this stroker crank for justification's sake... the last thing I want is to end up with the last result of one of my "experiments" that resulted in me going a second slower - that would just kill me). Free expert advice is ALWAYS welcome. Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Jul 5 09:02:15 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 16:02:15 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windsheild frame References: <000701c8dead$c150b6e0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <011301c8deb0$eabe2780$0200a8c0@Three> Plated/anodised. Mine was also dull and I tried polishing it with various compounds but I found the surface very hard and resisted all attempts, so stopped and left it as it was before I made it look even worse. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Are MGB windshield frames painted, plated, or just bare aluminum? What is the best method of restoring one? From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Jul 5 09:11:00 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 00:41:00 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windsheild frame In-Reply-To: <000701c8dead$c150b6e0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> References: <000701c8dead$c150b6e0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <0E92A8C1-4C4A-40FE-B0D3-43230FF6621E@erickson.on.net> On 06/07/2008, at 12:15 AM, dannyvarnado wrote: > Are MGB windshield frames painted, plated, or just bare aluminum? > What is the > best method of restoring one? Mine is very dull and I would like > to make it > like new again. > Danny, Here is a discussion archived from a forum - it may give you some ideas and info. http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5? runprog=mgbbs&mode=thread&access=&subject=70&source=T&thread=20080610110 64714411 BUT always remember that just because it is on the 'Net doesn't make it true... so do plenty of research before you leap at any of the suggestions you find. http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/windshield_frames_again/283338 http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/windshield_frame_finish_update/ 148935 Once I stop throwing money under the bonnet/hood/big-flap-of-alloy- over-the-engine I really want to start tidying up things like the windscreen frame! Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From rcamblin2 at comcast.net Sat Jul 5 09:38:15 2008 From: rcamblin2 at comcast.net (Robin Camblin) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 10:38:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger Question Message-ID: <000001c8deb5$245b7700$1600a8c0@RobC> I have recently mounted a Judson Supercharger on a 51 MGTD. It is running great but using a lot of MM oil. Ive set the oiler at 1 drop every 6 seconds and seems to be fine at idle. When driving Im using a lot of MM oil, about = a bottle in less than 100 miles. Any suggestions on what is wrong? I thought I should be using = bottle every 500 miles or so. Thanks in advance for any support/wisdom. Rob 1951 MGTD 1960 MGA 1967 MBBGT From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Sat Jul 5 10:20:34 2008 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 12:20:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Pertronix and overheating in MGA Message-ID: Listers, The engine was way too far advanced Many thanks for the responses. The results of the timing check are as follows: The previous setting was 20 degrees BTDC at low idle and with vacuum off and plugged. The new reading after Pertronix was 30 degrees, and performed the same way. The dwell was also a surprise. The dwell meter had been bench calibrated. The Pertronix dwell was only 40 degrees, versus the desired 60. Pertronix has not yet responded. Dave Houser From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Jul 5 11:04:51 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 02:34:51 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! In-Reply-To: <000601c8debb$8535df10$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <02c201c8dd4f$6b1c97d0$6401a8c0@Larry> <000601c8debb$8535df10$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <76571C0F-3072-4463-BC72-C8CA927B448F@erickson.on.net> On 06/07/2008, at 1:53 AM, Larry Daniels wrote: > Eric, the stroker crank will give you a higher peak torque, but at > a lower > rpm. Thank you all - I am assimilating the data as revceived :-) Next question, if I may. What about the 1950cc engine WITHOUT the stroker crank? Surely in this case we are talking about a significant gain over my current 1840cc? I know about all the pitfalls of such a big over-bore but as others have said this is not necessarily a hand-grenade formula. My only other option is to go V8 but that puts me in with some really big budget runners and like when I got bumped into my current class I would end up probably mid-field (and I don't go out there to come mid- field, as much fun as that can be). Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From Aeseeyou at aol.com Sat Jul 5 12:17:48 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 14:17:48 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! Message-ID: Eric, Have you thought about a V-6? Try _http://www.classicconversionseng.com_ (http://www.classicconversionseng.com) . We have a modified class at our July 27th British Car Show and this guys display is always a big hit. Everything from super-suspension and big brake kits to T-5 transmissions and V-6 engine transplants. The V-6 run really cool unlike some V-8 conversions that are really shoehorned in! Besides the V-6's have more than enough power to handle any type of on or off road situations. The MGB roadster and MGBGT that are shown on the website belong to the guy who owns the company they are basically his R&D vehicles and his transportation vehicles as well. And of course, all disclaimers apply... Just a thought, Albert Escalante-CCBCC/West Coast/USA **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From bobmgtd at comcast.net Sat Jul 5 14:01:13 2008 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 16:01:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Pertronix and overheating in MGA References: Message-ID: <003001c8deda$56aec430$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> My understanding is that there is no longer any dwell adjustment after the Pertronix is installed. Timing is the only thing you have to worry about, and once set it shouldn't change. I've been using the Pertronix in both my TD and MGB for many years now. The only problem I've had is, I didn't leave enough slack in the Pertronix wires inside the B's distributor. The leads rubbed against the rotor and wore through. (I was able to fix this by splicing.) This could also happen by pulling on the wires coming from the distributor. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "W. David Houser" To: "MG List" Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 12:20 PM Subject: [Mgs] Pertronix and overheating in MGA > Listers, > The engine was way too far advanced > Many thanks for the responses. The results of the timing check are as > follows: The previous setting was 20 degrees BTDC at low idle and with > vacuum off and plugged. The new reading after Pertronix was 30 > degrees, and performed the same way. The dwell was also a surprise. > The dwell meter had been bench calibrated. The Pertronix dwell was > only 40 degrees, versus the desired 60. Pertronix has not yet responded. > Dave Houser From mvrose at charter.net Sat Jul 5 15:31:51 2008 From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 14:31:51 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windsheild frame References: <000701c8dead$c150b6e0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <001001c8dee6$89edb340$aa43ba44@Primary> I used a pedestal mounted buffing wheel and various rouges and it came out very good. After I finished a clear coated it. Merl Rosenthal ----- Original Message ----- From: "dannyvarnado" To: Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 7:45 AM Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windsheild frame > Are MGB windshield frames painted, plated, or just bare aluminum? What is > the > best method of restoring one? Mine is very dull and I would like to make > it > like new again. > Thanks, > Danny V. > '58 MGA Daily Driver > '76 MGB V-6 project (almost finished) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as mvrose at charter.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sat Jul 5 15:28:25 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2008 14:28:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Windsheild frame In-Reply-To: <011301c8deb0$eabe2780$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: I assumed it was supposed to be matte finish, as a safety consideration. Otherwise it would have been chromed. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/5/08 8:02 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > Plated/anodised. Mine was also dull and I tried polishing it with various > compounds but I found the surface very hard and resisted all attempts, so > stopped and left it as it was before I made it look even worse. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > Are MGB windshield frames painted, plated, or just bare aluminum? What is > the > best method of restoring one? From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Jul 5 19:39:10 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 11:09:10 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 06/07/2008, at 3:47 AM, Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > Eric, > Have you thought about a V-6? Try _http:// > www.classicconversionseng.com_ > (http://www.classicconversionseng.com) . And don't they look cool - but remember, I need to stay under 2 litres :-) Thanks for those... so many options and so little cash (and too many rules :-) Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sat Jul 5 22:04:23 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 21:04:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors Message-ID: <40b437200807052104k72e0e18fnf71ab1af41c0d53d@mail.gmail.com> I hope that Kelvin and all the Moss Motors staff are safe! Regards, Simon From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Jul 5 23:15:54 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 14:45:54 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors In-Reply-To: <40b437200807052104k72e0e18fnf71ab1af41c0d53d@mail.gmail.com> References: <40b437200807052104k72e0e18fnf71ab1af41c0d53d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: On 06/07/2008, at 1:34 PM, Simon Matthews wrote: > I hope that Kelvin and all the Moss Motors staff are safe! > > I would assume we all do (let us know how you are, Kelvin). A little bit of irony: http://www.mossmotors.com/AboutMoss/AboutUs.aspx "Due in part to a disastrous fire, and intense global competition, in early 2000 the UK company, then known as Moss International, entered receivership. In order to safeguard parts supplies and vendors who depended upon Moss for their livelihood, the US company reentered the UK market, purchasing the assets of Moss International." Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jul 6 05:06:04 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 12:06:04 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Pertronix and overheating in MGA References: Message-ID: <007901c8df5a$30c69330$0200a8c0@Three> Does the Pertronix say it *should* be 60 degrees? Or are you just going by what the points are? Points give a fixed dwell in degrees or percent over the range of engine revs as it is governed by the shape of the cam. This means that as the revs rise the points closed i.e. dwell i.e. coil recharge *time* gets shorter and shorter. At high revs (and by that I mean higher than our engines usually go) you can get insufficient coil charge time and a reducing spark. By contrast electronic systems generally give a fixed dwell *time* which means the degrees or percent may well be low to start with but should increase as the revs rise. At higher rpms an electronic trigger should be giving a longer coil recharge time than points. The difference is negligible at the sort of rpms the MGA and MGB engines run at, V8 engines only have half the dwell and coil recharge time that the 4-cylinder engines do and very nearly the same peak rpm and don't suffer from weak spark. This is why dual-point systems are a waste of money but twice the trouble on 4-cylinder MGA and MGB engines. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... The Pertronix dwell was only 40 degrees, versus the desired 60. From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sun Jul 6 10:06:18 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 09:06:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors References: <40b437200807052104k72e0e18fnf71ab1af41c0d53d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <2AC3D42CEFEC4A1F9F1DB61888CFE4AF@XPS400> I can vouch for the fact that Kelvin was safe as of July 4 since he participated in a fun mountain run above Malibu. I think he lives in Oxnard which is about a 45 minute commute to Goleta. The last I heard, the fires are concentrated in the hills above the city of Goleta. Moss Motors is located in an industrial area close to the coast and there would have to be a major urban fire storm to threaten the actual Moss facility. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Matthews" To: "MG list" Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 9:04 PM Subject: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors >I hope that Kelvin and all the Moss Motors staff are safe! > > Regards, > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ronfineesq at earthlink.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From Aeseeyou at aol.com Sun Jul 6 11:21:47 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 13:21:47 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors Message-ID: Hi, Actually Kelvin lives in or close to the Los Padres National Forest near Ojai, Ca. I don't know what his route to work is but I do know that he drives approx. 45 miles each way from home to Goleta. As far as I know he's fine. And other than Ron's confusion as to Kelvin's home location all the other details are pretty "Spot on" There's another key MG person who actually lives near the Moss facilities or used the last I heard is Ken Smith who used to be Moss Motors Ambassador of Good-Will and PR. He's now Co-Editor of Classic MG Magazine. Although hopefully he's in England at present and out of the terrible smoke and haze of the fire as he has had some health issues and this fire wouldn't be the best thing for him. In the last email I got from him he indicated that he and his wife were going to visit the grand kids and while there look into the situation at Abingdon and Longbridge regarding the state or reality of the Nanjing (Chinese MG's) deal. -=Safety-Fast!=- Albert Escalante CCBCC/West Coast/USA **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From shop at justbrits.com Sun Jul 6 14:18:55 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 14:18:55 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Fw: [Healeys] Carpet install question, almost half way done. Message-ID: <016601c8dfa5$8499f7e0$6501a8c0@shop> Someone on The Healey List was lamenting being UN-able to find an ice pick to use for hole locating. The best answer was: I believe in order to purchase and own an ice pick these days you need a background check, a permit and a waiting period. There are classes offered by the National Ice Pick Association on the safe use and handling of an ice pick. You are allowed to have an ice pick in your home but it must be in a locked container with the handle separated from the pick. This policy, along with the abolition of recess and gym in school has produced a generation of obese, but safe children. From rocknatural at gmail.com Sun Jul 6 14:46:57 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2008 15:46:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fw: [Healeys] Carpet install question, almost half way done. In-Reply-To: <016601c8dfa5$8499f7e0$6501a8c0@shop> References: <016601c8dfa5$8499f7e0$6501a8c0@shop> Message-ID: <48712F41.4010807@gmail.com> Ed's Shop wrote: > Someone on The Healey List was lamenting being UN-able to find an ice pick to use for hole locating. The best answer was: > > > I believe in order to purchase and own an ice pick these days you need a background check, a permit and a waiting period. There are classes offered by the National Ice Pick Association on the safe use and handling of an ice pick. You are allowed to have an ice pick in your home but it must be in a locked container with the handle separated from the pick. > This policy, along with the abolition of recess and gym in school has produced a generation of obese, but safe children. Here's a brief excerpt from my S-F novel, "Raccoon's Law" ************************** The store had a number of fairly good quality screwdrivers, including some just like the rest of his set. He picked out the one that was identical to the one the mechman had nicked and carried it to the front counter and paid for it, refusing the bag the salesman offered and sticking it in his pocket with the sales receipt. When he had bought a couple of cold beers from the other store, he returned to the room. It had been when he noticed the little sticker on the handle of the screwdriver that he had finally given up in despair. His incredulity and indignation building to a climax, he had read: _________________________________________ WARNING: The Surgeon-General has determined that screwdrivers can be detrimental to your health! If you insert the blade as far as it will go up your nostril and hit the end of the handle sharply, the blade is likely to penetrate your brain, causing serious injury or death. Keep this and all other nasally-introductable objects out of the hands of children. _________________________________________ He had thrown the screwdriver across the room and given up. ************************************************* -The Roxter -- From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Jul 6 18:11:55 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 17:11:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Questions on Rear Engine Mount Message-ID: <411614.72107.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> So I refurbished the rear engine/transmission mount this week-end. Removed it, de-gunked it and painted the brackets, then rebuilt it with a new pin and 2 new bushings (wow, what a pain to get the bushings through the holes! That was a 30-minute project). I noticed that there is a gap of about 1/2" that wasn't present when I removed the old bushings (see pic). Of course, the old bushings had ballooned up and were full of grease and road crap, so maybe the gap was there originally. Is there supposed to be this gap? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7060027.jpg Second question is regarding the bracket that attaches to the transmission, under the rubber mounts that bolt to the trans. The bracket is off-set, and I believe that the 'tabs' face towards the rear of the car, but can't quite tell from the pics I took before I removed the old bracket. Is this correct? http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view¤t=P7060024.jpg I also degreased the trans - before (with some test spots) - http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P6240009.jpg After - http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7050021.jpg There is definitely some paint on the trans - I wonder if the late transmissions came painted? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Jul 6 18:15:39 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 17:15:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] LH Engine Mount Message-ID: <869671.22286.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ok, I am still working on the driver's side engine mount (LHD). I have come to the conclusion that I need to remove the steering shaft to get at it. I had purchased a bicycle wrench and could get it on the nut, but I feel like it may be starting to round off a bit. So, out comes the shaft, I guess..... Am I correct in thinking that I need can remove just the shaft, and not the entire rack?? It seems like if I unbolt it at the u-joint (which I have done and am soaking with penetrant) and then remove the cap and nut at the lower end, the shaft should just slide through the rack, right? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From mg_garage at comcast.net Sun Jul 6 18:15:06 2008 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (Gordie) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 20:15:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fw: [Healeys] Carpet install question, almost half way done. In-Reply-To: <016601c8dfa5$8499f7e0$6501a8c0@shop> References: <016601c8dfa5$8499f7e0$6501a8c0@shop> Message-ID: <000001c8dfc6$82c1d980$680fa8c0@garage> Having applied for the Ice Pick Permit, many years ago, and not being approved because I was known to "run with scissors", I have since discovered a similar product that has not yet been discovered by the "ruling elite". This product is called an Awl. I suspect that the name has been the reason it has not been discovered because all of the "ruling elite" hire out the hole locating. Hope this helps! Gordie Someone on The Healey List was lamenting being UN-able to find an ice pick to use for hole locating. The best answer was: I believe in order to purchase and own an ice pick these days you need a background check, a permit and a waiting period. There are classes offered by the National Ice Pick Association on the safe use and handling of an ice pick. You are allowed to have an ice pick in your home but it must be in a locked container with the handle separated from the pick. This policy, along with the abolition of recess and gym in school has produced a generation of obese, but safe children. Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From wtsnyder at bellsouth.net Sun Jul 6 18:53:00 2008 From: wtsnyder at bellsouth.net (wtsnyder at bellsouth.net) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 20:53:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Leeaking Rear Axle Seals Message-ID: <20080707005245.89ED6187653@autox.team.net> Hello list. On my last outing with my '53 TD stopping the car became quite an adventure involving standing on the brakes as hard as I could and crossing my fingers that she would stop in time. My first thought was leaking rear wheel cylinders which I recently rebuilt, but on closer inspection, I found that gear oil was the culprit, leaking from the bottom of the rear axle seals. It is worse on the left, but also present on the passenger side (right). This leads me to believe that I did something wrong during my resto in replacing these seals. There is a picture in the MG shop manual of proper placement of the seal, but little description of how it is to be seated. The photo also leaves a lot to be desired in clarity. Can one of you long-time T guys help me out with an explanation of how to properly remove and refit these seals? Also can you comment on how to clean the brake pads, if that is possible? I hate to have the car off the road when the weather here in the western North Carolina mountains is so perfect for TD cruising, but to me being able to stop is almost more important than being able to go! That is especially true when returning the TD down my steep basement drive to the garage. I don't want to damage the car OR the house! Thanks in advance. Bill Snyder Waynesville, NC '53 TD '66 B From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Jul 6 19:10:02 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 20:10:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount In-Reply-To: <869671.22286.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <869671.22286.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01B21E97-2A4B-4590-8CAC-DB09EC159E6A@gmail.com> It will come out the bottom, but it's not easy. On Jul 6, 2008, at 7:15 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Ok, I am still working on the driver's side engine mount (LHD). I > have come to the conclusion that I need to remove the steering shaft > to get at it. I had purchased a bicycle wrench and could get it on > the nut, but I feel like it may be starting to round off a bit. So, > out comes > the shaft, I guess..... > > Am I correct in thinking that I need can remove just the shaft, and > not the entire rack?? It seems like if I unbolt it at the u-joint > (which I have > done and am soaking with penetrant) and then remove the cap and nut > at the lower end, the shaft should just slide through the rack, right? From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sun Jul 6 22:27:45 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 21:27:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing Message-ID: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400> I am having a problem setting the timing on my newly rebuild engine. It seems to jump around plus or minus 5 degrees. I am using a new digital adjustable timing light. The distributor is new (Moss) 45D4 replacement for the original 25D. The vacuum advance has been disconnected. The cam is new. I did a static timing when setting up the engine and it has been running well for the first 300 miles but running hot. I tried to adjust the timing today with the new timing light but with the idle between 800 and 1000 rpm the timing mark is jumping between 0 and 5 degrees BTDC. I can't get it to idle any lower although the book says to set the timing at 600 rpm 14 degrees BTDC. Any idea what might be the problem? Is it possible that the new distributor is faulty?? I also installed a new coil and new plug wires with the new distributor. The points were adjusted on my bench before installing the distributor, so I believe they are set correctly. Any help is always appreciated. Ron Fine 66 MGB 61 BN7 From rbgosling at googlemail.com Mon Jul 7 01:44:00 2008 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 08:44:00 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Stoked.. err stroked! In-Reply-To: <9f2527520807070043w1ca4fe61le81ce5d8e497bb05@mail.gmail.com> References: <9f2527520807070043w1ca4fe61le81ce5d8e497bb05@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <9f2527520807070044w59ca5b85i7e24b07d9f348544@mail.gmail.com> Stroking an engine limits the useable rev range because increasing the stroke increases the speed the piston has to travel to get from the top of its travel to the bottom at a given rpm. As you increase the piston speed, the flame front of the explosion has more trouble keeping up with it, so reduces the pressure the explosion can exert on the top of the piston. Increasing the bore has no effect on piston speeds, allowing higher rpms to be maintained. The only downside is a heavier piston, which engine designers need to allow for when considering the loads that will be carried by the conrod and bearings. This is why screaming F1 engines are seriously over-square. The Ferrari F2008 is apparently 98mm bore, 38.9mm stroke - that's right, about one and a half inches stroke! Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 7 01:50:16 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 08:50:16 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount References: <869671.22286.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00af01c8e006$7c7224a0$0200a8c0@Three> Much less invasive to remove the rack complete. Two nuts if you have a scissors taper cracker or four bolts to remove the steering arms if you don't, and four nuts and two bolts to remove the rack from the cross-member. You do have to watch out for any shims between the rack and cross-member and out them back as you found them. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Am I correct in thinking that I need can remove just the shaft, and not the entire rack?? . __,_._,___ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 7 02:03:22 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 09:03:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing References: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400> Message-ID: <00ce01c8e008$96af7320$0200a8c0@Three> Timing jitter can be caused by a worn timing chain and gears or worn distributor, or a non-operational timing chain tensioner. Bit difficult to check the former now, new distributor noted but check for sideways play in the shaft and check that when you turn the rotor anti-clockwise by hand it is against spring pressure and it returns all the way leaving no slop. If you can't get the idle below 800rpm the carb butterflies aren't closing properly, or possibly the throttle spindle shafts and bushings are badly worn It's NOT a vacuum leak, an engine can't run on air alone, if it is running then some fuel must be getting past the butterflies i.e. they aren't fully closed. They could be hanging on the cable, there should be a little free-play in the cable when released. The interconnecting shaft clamps could be misaligned i.e. the air-flow isn't balanced, slacken the clamps and try again. Assuming the idle screws are backed off from the stop, make sure the fast-idle screws are also clear of the choke cams. If the engine is still running it can only be butterflies or worn spindles, although if you have the poppet valves they could also be leaking, solder them up. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I am having a problem setting the timing on my newly rebuild engine. It seems to jump around plus or minus 5 degrees. ... I can't get it to idle any lower From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jul 7 07:32:21 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 09:32:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Questions on Rear Engine Mount References: <411614.72107.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007901c8e035$e2f93310$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Dan, I can answer the question about the upper bracket because I just suffered through replacing the rear transmission mount 2 weeks ago: You are correct, the "tabs" go toward the rear of the car. The "flat" goes to the front. The lower bracket's orientation will be obvious, once the upper bracket is positioned. Ed Woods P.S. A question: is there a ground strap on the rear mount of your car? If so, how is it connected. Thanks, Ed From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jul 7 08:24:48 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 07:24:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Questions on Rear Engine Mount Message-ID: <890377.75915.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ed, thanks for the response. Is there a gap between the rubber bushings on your set-up? And yes, there is a ground strap, connected thusly - http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7060032.jpg Here is a clearer picture of the old mount and strap. This is the passenger's side (LHD) mount - http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7050019.jpg Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Ed Woods To: Dan DiBiase Cc: Mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 7, 2008 9:32:21 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Questions on Rear Engine Mount Dan, I can answer the question about the upper bracket because I just suffered through replacing the rear transmission mount 2 weeks ago: You are correct, the "tabs" go toward the rear of the car. The "flat" goes to the front. The lower bracket's orientation will be obvious, once the upper bracket is positioned. Ed Woods P.S. A question: is there a ground strap on the rear mount of your car? If so, how is it connected. Thanks, Ed From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 7 11:22:58 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 10:22:58 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Leeaking Rear Axle Seals In-Reply-To: <20080707005245.89ED6187653@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Another possibility is that the axle surface is worn, where the seal contacts it. A solution for this is a Speedi-Sleeve, a thin metal collar which you slip over the axle, that restores a smooth surface with the proper diameter. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/6/08 5:53 PM, wtsnyder at bellsouth.net at wtsnyder at bellsouth.net wrote: > Hello list. On my last outing with my '53 TD stopping the car became quite > an adventure involving standing on the brakes as hard as I could and > crossing my fingers that she would stop in time. My first thought was > leaking rear wheel cylinders which I recently rebuilt, but on closer > inspection, I found that gear oil was the culprit, leaking from the bottom > of the rear axle seals. It is worse on the left, but also present on the > passenger side (right). This leads me to believe that I did something wrong > during my resto in replacing these seals. There is a picture in the MG shop > manual of proper placement of the seal, but little description of how it is > to be seated. The photo also leaves a lot to be desired in clarity. > > > > Can one of you long-time T guys help me out with an explanation of how to > properly remove and refit these seals? Also can you comment on how to clean > the brake pads, if that is possible? > > > > I hate to have the car off the road when the weather here in the western > North Carolina mountains is so perfect for TD cruising, but to me being able > to stop is almost more important than being able to go! That is especially > true when returning the TD down my steep basement drive to the garage. I > don't want to damage the car OR the house! > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Bill Snyder > > Waynesville, NC > > '53 TD > > '66 B From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Mon Jul 7 12:07:34 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 11:07:34 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing References: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400> <00ce01c8e008$96af7320$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Paul, The timing chain and gears are new as well as the timing chain tensioner. I tried turning the rotor anti-clockwise. There is a small degree of slop before the spring pressure is felt and when the rotor is released it does not return completely to the clockwise stop. The rotor will move a few degrees counter-clockwise before the spring pressure is felt. There is no sideways movement. Does that sound correct or is there too much play in the rotation? Ron Fine ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ron Fine" ; "MG List" Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 1:03 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Unsteady timing > Timing jitter can be caused by a worn timing chain and gears or worn > distributor, or a non-operational timing chain tensioner. Bit difficult > to > check the former now, new distributor noted but check for sideways play in > the > shaft and check that when you turn the rotor anti-clockwise by hand it is > against spring pressure and it returns all the way leaving no slop. From wtsnyder at bellsouth.net Mon Jul 7 12:51:01 2008 From: wtsnyder at bellsouth.net (Bill Snyder) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 14:51:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Speedi Sleeve Message-ID: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> Max and list. Can you tell me where Speedi Sleeves are available. I have not seen them before. Bill Snyder From lundgren at byu.net Mon Jul 7 13:20:41 2008 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 13:20:41 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Speedi Sleeve In-Reply-To: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> References: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> Message-ID: <48726C89.30505@byu.net> Napa used to sell them in CO, I haven't looked in a few years though. Bill Snyder wrote: > Max and list. > > Can you tell me where Speedi Sleeves are available. I have not seen them > before. > > Bill Snyder > _______________________________________________ From hardt at sonic.net Mon Jul 7 13:32:39 2008 From: hardt at sonic.net (Ron Engelhardt) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 12:32:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Speedi Sleeve In-Reply-To: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> References: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> Message-ID: <48726F57.8030702@sonic.net> NAPA auto parts stores have them and I think Moss carries them. I used one for a leaking rear axle and it worked like a champ. Ron 58 MGA Bill Snyder wrote: > Max and list. > > Can you tell me where Speedi Sleeves are available. I have not seen them > before. > > Bill Snyder From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 7 13:32:54 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 12:32:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Speedi Sleeve In-Reply-To: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> Message-ID: They are made by Chicago Rawhide, which also supplies the seals. Ask the counterman about them at your local shop. He'll probably have to order them. You will need to know the spec diameter for your application. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/7/08 11:51 AM, Bill Snyder at wtsnyder at bellsouth.net wrote: > Max and list. > > Can you tell me where Speedi Sleeves are available. I have not seen them > before. > > Bill Snyder From rolindsay at yahoo.com Mon Jul 7 13:53:28 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 12:53:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder, no other content Message-ID: <708326.65977.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Friends, I am in the market for a welder. I need a tool that will weld sheet metal as well as structural steel on a car. I don't need to weld anything but steel so fancy gas units aren't needed. So what KIND of welder (and current) would you recommended for the jobs I have described above? Advice appreciated. rick lindsay From paul at ece.rochester.edu Mon Jul 7 14:30:21 2008 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 16:30:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder, no other content In-Reply-To: <708326.65977.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <708326.65977.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Rick, I have a Hobart handler 140 this is a MIG easy to learn and to run. It can be operated 115/ 220 and parts and help will be there when you need it yrs from now. In fact I found a site http://www.toolking.com/hobartwelders_500500a.aspx you can ge factory reconditioned units for $399. paul >Hello Friends, > >I am in the market for a welder. I need a tool that >will weld sheet metal as well as structural steel on a >car. I don't need to weld anything but steel so fancy >gas units aren't needed. > >So what KIND of welder (and current) would you >recommended for the jobs I have described above? >Advice appreciated. > >rick lindsay >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as paul at ece.rochester.edu > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From barneymg at mgaguru.com Mon Jul 7 14:52:54 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 15:52:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Speedi Sleeve In-Reply-To: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> References: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> Message-ID: <20080707205259.77609187672@autox.team.net> At 02:51 PM 7/7/2008 -0400, Bill Snyder wrote: >Max and list. > >Can you tell me where Speedi Sleeves are available. >.... Any bearing supply house, off teh shelf or within 1 day. Just tell them the shaft size. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Mon Jul 7 16:46:34 2008 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ronald A. Fine) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 15:46:34 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Mgs] Speedi Sleeve Message-ID: <18441873.1215470795008.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I know that Moss Motors sells some for specific applications. I also ordered some from my local machine shop/parts store. Ron Fine From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 7 17:04:10 2008 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 16:04:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] D & LH Type Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauges Message-ID: <70739.85148.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings, I have the needed overdrive oil pressure gauges on hand for use with D & LH type overdrives. Details: http://tinyurl.com/505s brgds. Jay From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jul 7 18:11:42 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 17:11:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount Message-ID: <653660.50984.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ok, so I don't have a 'scissors taper cracker' (or at least I'm pretty sure I don't)..... Are these the nuts to remove on the steering arm end? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7070006a.jpg I see a couple of shims on one of the 4 bolts holding the rack to the chassis arms, so will replace them as found. I've also marked the u-joint end of the steering shaft so I can re-orient it properly when I install it. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Monday, July 7, 2008 3:50:16 AM Subject: Re: [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount Much less invasive to remove the rack complete. Two nuts if you have a scissors taper cracker or four bolts to remove the steering arms if you don't, and four nuts and two bolts to remove the rack from the cross-member. You do have to watch out for any shims between the rack and cross-member and out them back as you found them. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Am I correct in thinking that I need can remove just the shaft, and not the entire rack?? . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! 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Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jul 7 20:19:07 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 22:19:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine References: <890377.75915.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Gentlemen and Ladies, Well, almost two years to the day after pulling the 18V engine for rebuilding, I cranked it on the starter today, plugs removed, to prime the oil system. After approximately 2 minutes of operation, still no oil at the flex line to the pressure gauge or at the oil filter base. Yes, it has sufficient oil. I recall a list discussion of different oil pump gaskets. Is that where I need to look at this point or are there other possiblilities not involving dropping the pan? TIA, Ed Woods From don at napanet.net Mon Jul 7 20:27:44 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 18:27:44 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine In-Reply-To: <005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <890377.75915.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080707182241.02d2ac70@pop.napanet.net> Years ago, I used the wrong oil pump gasket on a MGB engine rebuild- no oil pressure. The gasket sets have have several applications and so some gaskets that are intended for other variations of the engine are also in the sets. You might be able to tell if you used the wrong gasket for the oil pump by process of elimination if you examine the gaskets you didn't use, assuming you kept them. Don Scott. At 06:19 PM 07/07/2008, you wrote: >Gentlemen and Ladies, > >Well, almost two years to the day after pulling the 18V engine for rebuilding, >I cranked it on the starter today, plugs removed, to prime the oil system. >After approximately 2 minutes of operation, still no oil at the flex line to >the pressure gauge or at the oil filter base. > >Yes, it has sufficient oil. > >I recall a list discussion of different oil pump gaskets. Is that where I need >to look at this point or are there other possiblilities not involving dropping >the pan? > >TIA, > >Ed Woods >_____________ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1536 - Release Date: 07/05/2008 10:15 AM From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Jul 7 20:29:51 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 21:29:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine In-Reply-To: <005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <890377.75915.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <4872D11F.40602@gmail.com> Ed Woods wrote: > Gentlemen and Ladies, > > Well, almost two years to the day after pulling the 18V engine for rebuilding, > I cranked it on the starter today, plugs removed, to prime the oil system. > After approximately 2 minutes of operation, still no oil at the flex line to > the pressure gauge or at the oil filter base. > > Yes, it has sufficient oil. > > I recall a list discussion of different oil pump gaskets. Is that where I need > to look at this point or are there other possiblilities not involving dropping > the pan? > Is the pressure relief valve installed correctly? > -The Roxter > -- From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jul 7 21:29:15 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 21:29:15 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder, no other content In-Reply-To: <708326.65977.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <708326.65977.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4872DF0B.9090507@bradakis.com> Go to http://www.team.net/archive, click on the shop-talk entry and search the archives for welding. It is a fairly common topic on that list. mjb. From riverside at cedar-rapids.net Mon Jul 7 21:32:44 2008 From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 22:32:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine References: <890377.75915.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com><005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> <6.0.3.0.1.20080707182241.02d2ac70@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <023b01c8e0ab$49928e30$b0660143@your55e5f9e3d2> Did you remember to prime the oil pump when installing? ( fill with oil or assembly lube ?STP? ) It is not unusual on these engines to take several minutes to get oil pressure by cranking after a rebuild if the pump was not primed with a thick oil that sticks to the pump gears. After the first minute of cranking, to keep starter damage to a minimum I crank for 15 to 20 seconds and wait an equal amount of time between cranks. Usually get oil pressure about the time I am ready to give up. If the oil pump was not primed, it is possible to reverse prime it without removing the oil pan. This is done by disconnecting the oil line from the rear of the block and filling the oil passage with oil . You may have to refill the passage. Then crank the engine backwards either by hand or put into gear and roll the car so the engine turns backward a few reveloutions. The object is to get abit of oil into the pump to wet the gears. Then crank as normal. It helps to prefill the oil filter also. If you do the no-no and start the engine , it should get oil pressue within about 15 or 20 seconds. Not a suggestion and don't let it run any longer than that. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "don" To: Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 9:27 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine > Years ago, I used the wrong oil pump gasket on a MGB engine rebuild- no > oil > pressure. The gasket sets have have several applications and so some > gaskets that are intended for other variations of the engine are also in > the sets. You might be able to tell if you used the wrong gasket for the > oil pump by process of elimination if you examine the gaskets you didn't > use, assuming you kept them. > Don Scott. > > > > At 06:19 PM 07/07/2008, you wrote: > >>Gentlemen and Ladies, >> >>Well, almost two years to the day after pulling the 18V engine for >>rebuilding, >>I cranked it on the starter today, plugs removed, to prime the oil system. >>After approximately 2 minutes of operation, still no oil at the flex line >>to >>the pressure gauge or at the oil filter base. >> >>Yes, it has sufficient oil. >> >>I recall a list discussion of different oil pump gaskets. Is that where I >>need >>to look at this point or are there other possiblilities not involving >>dropping >>the pan? >> >>TIA, >> >>Ed Woods >>_____________ > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1536 - Release Date: 07/05/2008 > 10:15 AM > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1538 - Release Date: 7/7/2008 > 7:40 AM From cyberemp at comcast.net Tue Jul 8 00:10:43 2008 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 06:10:43 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] bad engine day. Message-ID: <070820080610.3951.487304E3000BBAB800000F6F22155751149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Well, I went through this years ago after having my short block done and balanced by "sheldust machine shop" in the area of Pacheco, Ca. First I primed the system. borrowed equipment to do this from the late skip kelsey. After this failed, I did drop the pan. Turned out Sheldust Machine shop had "forgot" to put the drive into the oil pump. Oops! silly them. Could happen to any one! (anyone with towering incompetence in their nature). On the bright side, the motor ran very smoothly after that. So the balance seemed to be done well. Oh, did I hit "send" on this? excuse the bitter flashback. :P Eric <<>> From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 8 04:38:23 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 11:38:23 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Leeaking Rear Axle Seals References: Message-ID: <007901c8e0e7$34c349e0$0200a8c0@Three> Not necessary. The axle is already sleeved, just replace that. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Another possibility is that the axle surface is worn, where the seal contacts it. A solution for this is a Speedi-Sleeve From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 8 04:46:44 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 11:46:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing References: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400> <00ce01c8e008$96af7320$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <008301c8e0e9$4e8e2780$0200a8c0@Three> Ron - for a new distributor I'd say that is wrong. I'd expect the light spring to be under some tension, only the heavy spring should be loose on its pins. It is this that gives the 'curve', which is actually a knee rather than a curve as the rate of advance is high initially when only the light spring is in use, then when the heavy spring comes into play the rate of advance is reduced. I have had a 'professionally' rebuilt distributor in the past where there was only one spring inside, it had the incorrect maximum advance stop (he had ground the number off so you couldn't read it but made no attempt to grind the stop as well to give the correct figure) and an incorrect vacuum can for the reference number. I am very suspicious of new or rebuilt distributors. Even Moss admitted they had been selling distributors with the wrong curve for years, taking the manufacturers word for it. Eventually they tested some, found them consistently wrong, and got the manufacturer to correct it. I wonder how many suppliers would do that? Paul. ----- Original Message ----- ... I tried turning the rotor anti-clockwise. There is a small degree of slop before the spring pressure is felt and when the rotor is released it does not return completely to the clockwise stop. The rotor will move a few degrees counter-clockwise before the spring pressure is felt. There is no sideways movement. Does that sound correct or is there too much play in the rotation? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 8 05:31:56 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 12:31:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine References: <890377.75915.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <00e501c8e0ef$9b8cca40$0200a8c0@Three> I understand the correct oil pump gasket can also be incorrectly orientated. Did you prime the pump with Vaseline before fitting. You could also try injecting oil into the 'flow' oil cooler pipe. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I cranked it on the starter today, plugs removed, to prime the oil system. After approximately 2 minutes of operation, still no oil at the flex line to the pressure gauge or at the oil filter base. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 8 05:29:10 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 12:29:10 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount References: <653660.50984.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00e401c8e0ef$9b584cc0$0200a8c0@Three> Yes, but then you need the scissors taper cracker (http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/bjs1.jpg) to get the pin out of the arm. There are other tools said to be suitable but they either don't work or end-up damaging the track-rod end. Just undo the two bolts securing the steering arm to the swivel axle and you will be fine. Oddly these don't have lock-tabs, torque to 60-65 ft lb. If the rack shaft has a notch for the U-bolt clamp bolt instead of a groove all the way round it will only go back together in one position anyway, just count the splines that are cut into by the notch and make sure there are the same number either side of the slot in the U-joint. The column shaft by contrast has a groove all the way round, so you should leave this alone and only undo the rack side, that way you are sure of getting the steering wheel aligned as it was before. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Ok, so I don't have a 'scissors taper cracker' (or at least I'm pretty sure I don't)..... Are these the nuts to remove on the steering arm end? . __,_._,___ From pryner at verizon.net Tue Jul 8 06:05:33 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 08:05:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bronze valve guides In-Reply-To: <00e501c8e0ef$9b8cca40$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: I just received the head for my early MGB engine back from the machine shop. He installed new hardened valve seats and bronze valve guides. I'm a little concerned about the clearances of the valves and guides. I can put the valves in and move them up and down, but some take more force than I would expect. On my past engines if I have the head on its side and install the valves, when I place the head down, the valves will fall with no help from me. With this head, the valves do not move and I have to push them down by hand before they will move. Is this common with the bronze guides or do I have a clearance issue? Thanks Pete From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Jul 8 06:17:03 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 08:17:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I'll make the same recommendation as Paul. I have the Hobart Handler 135 (essentially the same as the 140 just an older model), which is a 120V welder, and just finished this spring restoring the body of my Spitfire (floors, sills, rear fender, etc) using this unit. I find it to be a very easy unit to operate. I have also welded 1/8" steel with this machine with ease. Please get a gas unit, it makes for a much cleaner weld than using flux core wire, a lot less spatter to clean up off of your sheet metal. Although flux core comes in handy welding on a frame where you might not be able to get the metal perfectly clean (flux core will weld through light, surface corrosion), or you welding outside in the wind. I agree with Paul when he says that the benefit of buying a Hobart/Miller/Lincoln is that parts an service will be available for years to come. I have seen the 140 on sale at TSC for a reasonable price. Mark From: Rick Lindsay Subject: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder, no other content Hello Friends, I am in the market for a welder. I need a tool that will weld sheet metal as well as structural steel on a car. I don't need to weld anything but steel so fancy gas units aren't needed. So what KIND of welder (and current) would you recommended for the jobs I have described above? Advice appreciated. rick lindsay From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Jul 8 06:34:33 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 05:34:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing In-Reply-To: <008301c8e0e9$4e8e2780$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <745471.6532.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Folks I would like to back up Paul's comments with my experience. I have purchased "professionally" rebuilt distributers for our cars and have found that the rebuilders install any just springs AND any vacuum capsules that happen to be in the parts bin. When I asked the vendor he looked the unit up on his computer and said something like, "Yep, that's the right unit. Fits MGB, Mini, Herald, Morris..., whatever." (I can't remember the real list but it was long.) In short, they were offering a generic unit claiming that it fit about anything with a hole for the drive! And that may be okay if the goal is just to "get it running" but we are NOT that customer. regards, rick --- Paul Hunt wrote: > Ron - for a new distributor I'd say that is wrong. > I'd expect the light > spring to be under some tension, only the heavy > spring should be loose on its > pins. It is this that gives the 'curve', which is > actually a knee rather than > a curve as the rate of advance is high initially > when only the light spring is > in use, then when the heavy spring comes into play > the rate of advance is > reduced. I have had a 'professionally' rebuilt > distributor in the past where > there was only one spring inside, it had the > incorrect maximum advance stop > (he had ground the number off so you couldn't read > it but made no attempt to > grind the stop as well to give the correct figure) > and an incorrect vacuum can > for the reference number. I am very suspicious of > new or rebuilt > distributors. Even Moss admitted they had been > selling distributors with the > wrong curve for years, taking the manufacturers word > for it. Eventually they > tested some, found them consistently wrong, and got > the manufacturer to > correct it. I wonder how many suppliers would do > that? > > Paul. > ----- Original Message ----- > ... I tried turning the rotor anti-clockwise. > There is a small > degree of slop before the spring pressure is felt > and when the rotor is > released it does not return completely to the > clockwise stop. The rotor > will move a few degrees counter-clockwise before > the spring pressure is > felt. There is no sideways movement. Does that > sound correct or is there > too much play in the rotation? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From twobees at sprynet.com Tue Jul 8 06:46:54 2008 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 08:46:54 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Shipping from US to UK Message-ID: <001b01c8e0f8$b4147550$7b451645@normoffice> Help! Can anyone recommend a shipper other than UPS, DHL, FedEx for me to use shipping 2 boxes from Florida to Lancashire, UK? Those shippers charges are HUGE - as much as US$1,600. I'm shipping bucket seats in 2 boxes 21 x 25 x 34 weighing 33# each. I have checked BAX Global & they are a LOT less - US$565 door-to-door. But, they are busters re. ONLY business-to-business. Your quick response will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Norm Sippel From mvrose at charter.net Tue Jul 8 07:38:32 2008 From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 06:38:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine References: <890377.75915.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <005501c8e0a1$00e1be90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <000e01c8e0ff$ea7de2a0$aa43ba44@Primary> Ed, I had the exact same thing happen when I tried to start my MGB after an overhaul. Before taking off your oil pan to check the gasket try the following: Remove the flex line at the pressure switch. Use a pump style oil can, syringe, etc to fill the flex hose with oil. Once you have filled the flex hose, reconnect it or put the end in a towel and have some one crank the engine. The procedure I described will "load up the oil pump" and help you get it primed. It took a couple of attempts using the above procedure to get oil pressure. Merl Rosenthal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:19 PM Subject: [Mgs] A Bad Day with the MGB engine > Gentlemen and Ladies, > > Well, almost two years to the day after pulling the 18V engine for > rebuilding, > I cranked it on the starter today, plugs removed, to prime the oil system. > After approximately 2 minutes of operation, still no oil at the flex line > to > the pressure gauge or at the oil filter base. > > Yes, it has sufficient oil. > > I recall a list discussion of different oil pump gaskets. Is that where I > need > to look at this point or are there other possiblilities not involving > dropping > the pan? > > TIA, > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as mvrose at charter.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 8 07:38:53 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 14:38:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Leaking Rear Axle Seals References: <00ee01c8e0fe$20bab0c0$62301240$@net> Message-ID: <01c301c8e100$68197e90$0200a8c0@Three> Sorry I meant if the original sleeve is worn you should replace that rather than adding a speedi-sleeve, but you would need to replace the oil seal as well. The sleeve is item 91 on http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29022#91 part number 266-030, collar oil seal. The lip of the seal i.e. the grooved side always faces inwards i.e. towards the clean side i.e. the oil or grease and the flat face faces outwards. Haynes and the Workshop Manual both mention this. FWIW neither mention the orientation for the front hub oil seals, but it is the same. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Are you saying it is unnecessary to use speedi sleeves because the axle is already sleeved, thus only the seals need to be replaced? Also, I am still unclear as to which direction the seal faces when installed. Can you give me a quick description or point me toward a good info source. From peter at nosimport.com Tue Jul 8 07:52:31 2008 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 08:52:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] bronze valve guides In-Reply-To: References: <00e501c8e0ef$9b8cca40$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080708084900.03873560@nosimport.com> Pete, This link http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?m=200705 is to a blog by Michael Salter of some renown in the Healey world. He describes some instances to be wary of when using bronze guides. I, and others, have had stuck valve experiences when the guides were not properly sized. His information is spot on, IMHO. Within the link, you'll need to page down a little past the exhaust stuff. Well worth the read. Hope it helps. Peter C. ===== At 07:05 AM 7/8/2008, Peter Ryner wrote: >I just received the head for my early MGB engine back from the machine shop. >He installed new hardened valve seats and bronze valve guides. I'm a little >concerned about the clearances of the valves and guides. I can put the >valves in and move them up and down, but some take more force than I would >expect. On my past engines if I have the head on its side and install the >valves, when I place the head down, the valves will fall with no help from >me. With this head, the valves do not move and I have to push them down by >hand before they will move. > >Is this common with the bronze guides or do I have a clearance issue? >Thanks >Pete From WSpohn4 at aol.com Tue Jul 8 07:53:27 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 09:53:27 EDT Subject: [Mgs] bronze valve guides Message-ID: Didn't the same shop finish the guides to the valves you are using? If so you should be OK - but they need to have been finish-reamed to exact size. Call them up and ask them (and why are you puling the valves out anyway?) If they installed them without the valves, take the head back, Pressing the guides into the head deforms them ever so slightly and IMO requires fitting them to the valves used. Normal procedure is to hand the shop the springs, valves, etc. and get back an assembled head ready to drop on..... Bill In a message dated 08/07/2008 5:05:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pryner at verizon.net writes: On my past engines if I have the head on its side and install the valves, when I place the head down, the valves will fall with no help from me. With this head, the valves do not move and I have to push them down by hand before they will move. From mike at lempertgroup.com Tue Jul 8 08:38:21 2008 From: mike at lempertgroup.com (Mike Lempert) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 10:38:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Shipping from US to UK Message-ID: <18a401c8e108$45ef7c90$6001a8c0@DadsPC> Hello Norm. I use USPS for all my international shipping. They are about a third of the cost of the others and don't require as much paperwork. Regards, Mike Lempert http://www.lempertwheels.com > Help! > > Can anyone recommend a shipper other than UPS, DHL, FedEx for me to use > shipping 2 boxes from Florida to Lancashire, UK? Those shippers charges > are > HUGE - as much as US$1,600. > > I'm shipping bucket seats in 2 boxes 21 x 25 x 34 weighing 33# each. > > I have checked BAX Global & they are a LOT less - US$565 door-to-door. > But, > they are busters re. ONLY business-to-business. > > Your quick response will be greatly appreciated. > > Thank you. > > Norm Sippel From mgb72 at airmail.net Tue Jul 8 09:20:08 2008 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 10:20:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002a01c8e10e$3f392300$bdab6900$@net> Just my two cents I have the 135 as well, with the gas kit. The welder works really well, esp. for the price. Another vote in the positive for this machine. -Chad -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 7:17 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net; rolindsay at yahoo.com Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder I'll make the same recommendation as Paul. I have the Hobart Handler 135 (essentially the same as the 140 just an older model), which is a 120V welder, and just finished this spring restoring the body of my Spitfire (floors, sills, rear fender, etc) using this unit. I find it to be a very easy unit to operate. I have also welded 1/8" steel with this machine with ease. Please get a gas unit, it makes for a much cleaner weld than using flux core wire, a lot less spatter to clean up off of your sheet metal. Although flux core comes in handy welding on a frame where you might not be able to get the metal perfectly clean (flux core will weld through light, surface corrosion), or you welding outside in the wind. I agree with Paul when he says that the benefit of buying a Hobart/Miller/Lincoln is that parts an service will be available for years to come. I have seen the 140 on sale at TSC for a reasonable price. Mark From: Rick Lindsay Subject: [Mgs] Advice needed regarding welder, no other content Hello Friends, I am in the market for a welder. I need a tool that will weld sheet metal as well as structural steel on a car. I don't need to weld anything but steel so fancy gas units aren't needed. So what KIND of welder (and current) would you recommended for the jobs I have described above? Advice appreciated. rick lindsay _______________________________________________ From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Jul 8 09:41:46 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 08:41:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Was: Advice needed regarding welder In-Reply-To: <002a01c8e10e$3f392300$bdab6900$@net> Message-ID: <346934.79693.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks everyone, for the good advice re. welders. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Jul 8 09:51:45 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 08:51:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount Message-ID: <202406.26378.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Paul, thanks.... Sorry to be so obtuse but is this the steering arm? Looks like there are 2 bolts on each...? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7070006b.jpg Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2008 7:29:10 AM Subject: Re: [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount Yes, but then you need the scissors taper cracker (http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/bjs1.jpg) to get the pin out of the arm. There are other tools said to be suitable but they either don't work or end-up damaging the track-rod end. Just undo the two bolts securing the steering arm to the swivel axle and you will be fine. Oddly these don't have lock-tabs, torque to 60-65 ft lb. If the rack shaft has a notch for the U-bolt clamp bolt instead of a groove all the way round it will only go back together in one position anyway, just count the splines that are cut into by the notch and make sure there are the same number either side of the slot in the U-joint. The column shaft by contrast has a groove all the way round, so you should leave this alone and only undo the rack side, that way you are sure of getting the steering wheel aligned as it was before. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Ok, so I don't have a 'scissors taper cracker' (or at least I'm pretty sure I don't)..... Are these the nuts to remove on the steering arm end? . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com mailto:MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From twobees at sprynet.com Tue Jul 8 10:08:13 2008 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 12:08:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Shipping from US to UK Message-ID: <000501c8e114$d3be51c0$7b451645@normoffice> Thank you to all of you who responded so quickly. I checked USPS on line & then went to my local P.O. to confirm. The only drawback is their limit on insurance coverage. I then called the buyer in the UK. And, that's the method we're going to use. You guys are a great resource. Norm Sippel From rocknatural at gmail.com Tue Jul 8 10:48:09 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 11:48:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Shipping from US to UK In-Reply-To: <001b01c8e0f8$b4147550$7b451645@normoffice> References: <001b01c8e0f8$b4147550$7b451645@normoffice> Message-ID: <48739A49.9090907@gmail.com> Norm 2Bs wrote: > Help! > > Can anyone recommend a shipper other than UPS, DHL, FedEx for me to use > shipping 2 boxes from Florida to Lancashire, UK? Those shippers charges are > HUGE - as much as US$1,600. > > I'm shipping bucket seats in 2 boxes 21 x 25 x 34 weighing 33# each. > > I have checked BAX Global & they are a LOT less - US$565 door-to-door. But, > they are busters re. ONLY business-to-business. > > Your quick response will be greatly appreciated. > > Thank you. > > Norm Sippel I haven't dealt with Nick in years, due to the Mini being parked, but I think Nick might be able to help you: Nick Rogers Sheffield Minibitz 101 Albert Road Heeley, Sheffield S8 9QX UK (England) 0114 255 4630 FAX 0114 258 2091 Nick and his US partner used to often send big shipping containers back and forth. Nick is a great guy. -The Roxter -- From twobees at sprynet.com Tue Jul 8 11:48:51 2008 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 13:48:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Short Ram Stacks for HS4s Needed Message-ID: <000001c8e122$e31e71a0$7b451645@normoffice> Not long ago, I swapped ram stacks form 1-3/4" SUs for same for 1-1/2" SUs. While nice stacks, they are a bit too long & wide-mouthed for the space available in my Turner. Will keep them for future projects. Last week I decided to order a pair of 1-1/2" tall stacks from my friends Lori & David at APT. The new prices they are being charged by the manufacturer are crazy. The stacks on which they make only a few dollars have gone up to $69.95 each. While they seem to be all that is available, and the US$ value keeps plummeting, they are what I need. To see them, go to: http://www.aptfast.com/ click on "SU Carburetors" & scroll down almost to the bottom of the page & look for "SU Stub Stacks & Ram Pipes" Click on "RP-HS4." Anyone, know of another source for stacks of that type? Both of us would like to know about another source. Norm Sippel From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 8 12:57:26 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 11:57:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] D & LH Type Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauges In-Reply-To: <70739.85148.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CB76B@kb1.mossmotors.com> My two bits. Jay's Gauges are high quality and a very good value if you are doing any repair/troubleshooting work on an OD. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Jay Holekamp > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 4:04 PM > To: MG list > Cc: mgcharlie at comcast.net > Subject: [Mgs] D & LH Type Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauges > > Greetings, > I have the needed overdrive oil pressure gauges on hand for > use with D & LH type overdrives. Details: > http://tinyurl.com/505s brgds. Jay From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 8 13:46:00 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 12:46:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors/update In-Reply-To: <40b437200807052104k72e0e18fnf71ab1af41c0d53d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CB788@kb1.mossmotors.com> Thanks for all the thoughts. Moss Motors (west coast) is located not far from the beach. The fire is currently burning on the facing mountain range a couple of miles away. There are a lot of suburban houses, a freeway and railway line between the Moss warehouse and the fire so it's unlikely that the facility itself will be threatened. Electrical and phone lines are another thing as the electricity is fluctuating a lot and currently the outgoing phone lines are down. This is going to be a problem for a while as the fire fighters are setting back fires to deplete fuel. Air quality was a problem for employees who live in the Goleta area over the weekend, but I don't believe anyone here lives in the threatened canyon areas. Personally, my home and family are in Ojai which is a long way away from the problem area. Thankfully, as my home backs onto National forest and would be the first to go up if fires came far enough south. Luckily the Zaca fire last year cleared out most of the highly flammable brush to the north of us. On a side note, I drove up to Oakland on Sunday evening over Highway 154 which is just East of the fire. I looked up at the perfect time to see a 4 engine bomber dump fire retardent on the tree line about 1/4 mile away. Very impressive. The men and women fighting the fires deserve the highest level of respect. Driving north on the 101 was a bit like entering a war zone convoys of equipment, heavy appliances and base camps all over the place. All the best Kelvin Dodd From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 8 13:53:41 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 12:53:41 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors In-Reply-To: <2AC3D42CEFEC4A1F9F1DB61888CFE4AF@XPS400> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CB792@kb1.mossmotors.com> Nice to see you on the run, Ron. We had a lot of fun. As Albert wrote, I live in Ojai and commute into Moss through the canyons on Hwy. 150. Lovely, lovely drive. Lots of windies and this morning only a couple of other cars. Lots of fun, until you hit Carpenteria and traffic on Hwy 101. This morning wasn't bad though, there were a lot of holes where I was able to open the MGB up and clean out the cobwebs. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Ron Fine > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 9:06 AM > To: Simon Matthews; MG list > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Goleta Fire and Moss Motors > > I can vouch for the fact that Kelvin was safe as of July 4 > since he participated in a fun mountain run above Malibu. I > think he lives in Oxnard which is about a 45 minute commute > to Goleta. The last I heard, the fires are concentrated in > the hills above the city of Goleta. Moss Motors is located > in an industrial area close to the coast and there would have > to be a major urban fire storm to threaten the actual Moss facility. > > Ron From pryner at verizon.net Tue Jul 8 13:56:30 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 15:56:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] bronze valve guides In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080708084900.03873560@nosimport.com> Message-ID: Peter, Thanks for the link and the info. The bronze were all that TRF carries, so I thought they would be an good choice. After reading the article I ordered some original from Moss who sells both. The bronze are more expensive but with the problems identified, I think I'll go back to original. This is why I give my machinest the parts, but I install all myself. Machine shops are not always engine rebuilders. Pete -----Original Message----- From: Peter C [mailto:peter at nosimport.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:53 AM To: Peter Ryner; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] bronze valve guides Pete, This link http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?m=200705 is to a blog by Michael Salter of some renown in the Healey world. He describes some instances to be wary of when using bronze guides. I, and others, have had stuck valve experiences when the guides were not properly sized. His information is spot on, IMHO. Within the link, you'll need to page down a little past the exhaust stuff. Well worth the read. Hope it helps. Peter C. ===== At 07:05 AM 7/8/2008, Peter Ryner wrote: >I just received the head for my early MGB engine back from the machine shop. >He installed new hardened valve seats and bronze valve guides. I'm a little >concerned about the clearances of the valves and guides. I can put the >valves in and move them up and down, but some take more force than I would >expect. On my past engines if I have the head on its side and install the >valves, when I place the head down, the valves will fall with no help from >me. With this head, the valves do not move and I have to push them down by >hand before they will move. > >Is this common with the bronze guides or do I have a clearance issue? >Thanks >Pete From mjanacek at snet.net Tue Jul 8 15:53:36 2008 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 17:53:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Short Ram Stacks for HS4s Needed In-Reply-To: <000001c8e122$e31e71a0$7b451645@normoffice> References: <000001c8e122$e31e71a0$7b451645@normoffice> Message-ID: <4873E1E0.2020108@snet.net> Norm, The only link I have is http://www.twminduction.com/Home/Home-FR.html Click on the tab "Air Horns" for their listings. I didn't see any prices for the SU's, but clicking the price link does give a phone # and email. Mike '79B Norm 2Bs wrote: > Not long ago, I swapped ram stacks form 1-3/4" SUs for same for 1-1/2" SUs. > While nice stacks, they are a bit too long & wide-mouthed for the space > available in my Turner. Will keep them for future projects. > > Last week I decided to order a pair of 1-1/2" tall stacks from my friends > Lori & David at APT. The new prices they are being charged by the > manufacturer are crazy. The stacks on which they make only a few dollars > have gone up to $69.95 each. While they seem to be all that is available, > and the US$ value keeps plummeting, they are what I need. > > To see them, go to: http://www.aptfast.com/ > click on "SU Carburetors" & scroll down almost to the bottom of the page & > look for "SU Stub Stacks & Ram Pipes" Click on "RP-HS4." > > Anyone, know of another source for stacks of that type? Both of us would > like to know about another source. > > Norm Sippel From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jul 8 21:10:15 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 22:10:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Elizabeth and Fisher Jones In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48742C17.2070801@ktc.com> I called Brooke Army Med Ctr this evening. They Said Fisher was discharged yesterday. I'd have searched him out earlier but I had a medical emergency myself. Anyhoo seems Fisher is on the mend. CR RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > Fellow LBCerbs, I received a phone call last night from Elizabeth Jones. > Her husband Fisher suffered a heart attack this weekend and is in the > hospital > in San Antonio. Elizabeth is with him, and he is still in coronary care, but > is alert and OK for the time being. A catheterization will be performed as > soon as they are sure he is up to it. > Since she is at his bedside, Elizabeth has no internet access, and has asked > me to inform everyone that she must cancel the sale she had proposed for > this weekend. She apologizes to everyone and will reschedule as soon as she > can. > Many of her friends from the Spridget list were in transit, so she called me > as she knew I wasnbt able to attend. > I ask that you keep Fisher and Elizabeth in your prayers. Ibm sure she > will > be sending updates as soon as she is able. > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union > carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced > hands, > the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. > > > > > **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for > fuel-efficient used cars. > (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jul 8 21:13:22 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 22:13:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Speedi Sleeve In-Reply-To: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> References: <00a401c8e062$676a0f80$363e2e80$@net> Message-ID: <48742CD2.3070800@ktc.com> They're also called Reddi-Sleeves, dpending on the mfr. You can get them from any REAL auto parts store. CR Bill Snyder wrote: > Max and list. > > Can you tell me where Speedi Sleeves are available. I have not seen them > before. > > Bill Snyder From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jul 8 21:24:23 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2008 22:24:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing In-Reply-To: References: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400> <00ce01c8e008$96af7320$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <48742F67.3040608@ktc.com> Whether the timing is jumping around or not it seems obvious that you need to advance the timing to near the spec. Don't worry about the diff between 600 and 800 rpm. The main need is to get the spark timing near where it needs to be. It sounds like there's too much slop in the dizzy advance mechanism presuming the engine RPM is steady at idle. Call Moss. CR Ron Fine wrote: > Paul, The timing chain and gears are new as well as the timing chain > tensioner. I tried turning the rotor anti-clockwise. There is a small > degree of slop before the spring pressure is felt and when the rotor is > released it does not return completely to the clockwise stop. The rotor > will move a few degrees counter-clockwise before the spring pressure is > felt. There is no sideways movement. Does that sound correct or is there > too much play in the rotation? > > Ron Fine From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 9 01:57:27 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 08:57:27 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] LH Engine Mount References: <202406.26378.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006d01c8e19a$b93858b0$0200a8c0@Three> Yep that's it, you have circled the two bolts to be removed. Paul. ----- Original Message ----- Paul, thanks.... Sorry to be so obtuse but is this the steering arm? Looks like there are 2 bolts on each...? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P 7070006b.jpg . __,_._,___ From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 9 07:57:57 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 08:57:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] EAA Air Show and LBC Show Message-ID: <01ab01c8e1cb$cbc47640$6401a8c0@Larry> The annual EAA Air Show in Oshkosh, WI will be July 28 thru Aug. 3rd. http://www.airventure.org/ For anybody who would like to see the air show from the flight line for free, my brother has a home abutting the airport property and has his hangar in his backyard with a taxiway to the runway going right past it. He puts on an annual party for the air show. This year it will be Saturday, Aug. 2nd. He is inviting any British car people to come and display their cars on his taxiway. You are all invited. This is a family-friendly event, so spouses and/or kids are welcome. He and I will sponsor lunch including beer, soda and bbq. Just bring something to pass. The party starts at 2:00, food at 2:30 and the air show at 3:30. A camera, sunscreen and a lawn chair would be wise to bring. He is on the opposite side of the runway from the EAA crowd and the flight return path goes directly overhead. You won't forget an F-22 Raptor going at speed directly over your head. Earplugs might not be a bad idea. If you can, please RSVP by Saturday the 26th so we know about how much food and drink to get. There will be several hundred people, so we always over-estimate in case you decide to come at the last minute. ladaniels at sbcglobal.net The address is 3778 Red Oak Ct., Oshkosh, WI. Before the event, I will find a meeting place near the highway so we can drive in together. If you are on another British car list or know of other British car owners, you are welcome to pass this on. From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Jul 9 08:45:25 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 00:15:25 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] EAA Air Show and LBC Show In-Reply-To: <01ab01c8e1cb$cbc47640$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <01ab01c8e1cb$cbc47640$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <4797AB83-9A3A-4883-9DB5-7FE96E959B76@erickson.on.net> On 09/07/2008, at 11:27 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > The annual EAA Air Show in Oshkosh, WI will be July 28 thru Aug. 3rd. > > http://www.airventure.org/ > > For anybody who would like to see the air show from the flight line > for free, > my brother has a home abutting the airport property and has his > hangar in his > backyard with a taxiway to the runway going right past it. You are a terrible person, Larry. I am a few thousand miles too far away but that sounds like a particularly spectacular offer!!! I am so jealous (that is one heck of an airshow). Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 9 08:52:57 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 09:52:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] EAA Air Show and LBC Show References: <01ab01c8e1cb$cbc47640$6401a8c0@Larry> <4797AB83-9A3A-4883-9DB5-7FE96E959B76@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <021e01c8e1d3$7a6caa30$6401a8c0@Larry> Eric, every year Qantas brings a 747 full of Aussies over for the show. Hop on and we'll save a spot for you. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Erickson" To: "MG list" Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:45 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] EAA Air Show and LBC Show On 09/07/2008, at 11:27 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > The annual EAA Air Show in Oshkosh, WI will be July 28 thru Aug. 3rd. > > http://www.airventure.org/ > > For anybody who would like to see the air show from the flight line > for free, > my brother has a home abutting the airport property and has his > hangar in his > backyard with a taxiway to the runway going right past it. You are a terrible person, Larry. I am a few thousand miles too far away but that sounds like a particularly spectacular offer!!! I am so jealous (that is one heck of an airshow). Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Jul 9 09:20:02 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 00:50:02 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] EAA Air Show and LBC Show In-Reply-To: <021e01c8e1d3$7a6caa30$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <01ab01c8e1cb$cbc47640$6401a8c0@Larry> <4797AB83-9A3A-4883-9DB5-7FE96E959B76@erickson.on.net> <021e01c8e1d3$7a6caa30$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <3E505EA6-0A24-4B93-82DF-EA27E2B3C48A@erickson.on.net> On 10/07/2008, at 12:22 AM, Larry Daniels wrote: > Eric, every year Qantas brings a 747 full of Aussies over for the > show. Hop > on and we'll save a spot for you. I mentioned it to my boss in the hope he might suggest we head over together... his shout :-) Many of the senior techs where I work are into flying of one sort or another. Here is my boss's website (yes, he is the local "dealer" for the thing in that picture, too). http://web.mac.com/simon_hackett/Site/Welcome.html Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 9 09:42:58 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 10:42:58 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] EAA Air Show and LBC Show References: <01ab01c8e1cb$cbc47640$6401a8c0@Larry> <4797AB83-9A3A-4883-9DB5-7FE96E959B76@erickson.on.net> <021e01c8e1d3$7a6caa30$6401a8c0@Larry> <3E505EA6-0A24-4B93-82DF-EA27E2B3C48A@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <026d01c8e1da$77a87cf0$6401a8c0@Larry> My brother is retired now, but works part-time for EAA and for Sonex Aircraft. http://www.sonexaircraft.com/ He built his own Sonex. Have your boss check out the Xenos motorglider. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Erickson" To: "Larry Daniels" ; "MG list" Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 10:20 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] EAA Air Show and LBC Show On 10/07/2008, at 12:22 AM, Larry Daniels wrote: > Eric, every year Qantas brings a 747 full of Aussies over for the > show. Hop > on and we'll save a spot for you. I mentioned it to my boss in the hope he might suggest we head over together... his shout :-) Many of the senior techs where I work are into flying of one sort or another. Here is my boss's website (yes, he is the local "dealer" for the thing in that picture, too). http://web.mac.com/simon_hackett/Site/Welcome.html Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From riverside at cedar-rapids.net Wed Jul 9 10:16:38 2008 From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 11:16:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing References: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400><00ce01c8e008$96af7320$0200a8c0@Three> <48742F67.3040608@ktc.com> Message-ID: <042c01c8e1df$2ba74c00$b0660143@your55e5f9e3d2> throw a dwell meter on it. check at idle, 1500 rpm, and 2500 rpm (very briefly!) if there is more than about 2degrees, the dizzy bushings are bad. the dwell variation will cause timing to wander art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles & Peggy Robinson" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:24 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Unsteady timing > Whether the timing is jumping around or not it seems obvious that you > need to advance the timing to near the spec. Don't worry about the diff > between 600 and 800 rpm. The main need is to get the spark timing near > where it needs to be. > > It sounds like there's too much slop in the dizzy advance mechanism > presuming the engine RPM is steady at idle. Call Moss. > > CR > > > > > > Ron Fine wrote: >> Paul, The timing chain and gears are new as well as the timing chain >> tensioner. I tried turning the rotor anti-clockwise. There is a small >> degree of slop before the spring pressure is felt and when the rotor is >> released it does not return completely to the clockwise stop. The rotor >> will move a few degrees counter-clockwise before the spring pressure is >> felt. There is no sideways movement. Does that sound correct or is >> there >> too much play in the rotation? >> >> Ron Fine > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1540 - Release Date: 7/8/2008 > 6:33 AM From rocknatural at gmail.com Wed Jul 9 13:54:15 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 14:54:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing In-Reply-To: <48742F67.3040608@ktc.com> References: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400> <00ce01c8e008$96af7320$0200a8c0@Three> <48742F67.3040608@ktc.com> Message-ID: <48751767.4070401@gmail.com> Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > Whether the timing is jumping around or not it seems obvious that you > need to advance the timing to near the spec. Don't worry about the diff > between 600 and 800 rpm. The main need is to get the spark timing near > where it needs to be. > > It sounds like there's too much slop in the dizzy advance mechanism > presuming the engine RPM is steady at idle. Call Moss. I never set the timing at idle. I set it at maximum advance at higher revs. This prevents over advance at higher revs. -The Roxter -- From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Jul 9 14:34:10 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2008 13:34:10 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing In-Reply-To: <48751767.4070401@gmail.com> Message-ID: You really need to know both, or you are merely assuming that your advance mechanism is working as designed. For instance, if the mechanical advance weights were stuck, your method would ensure significantly over-advanced timing at idle. Vice versa for checking at idle only. Those people who have their idle set at 1800rpm, I don't know what they think they are checking -- unless they have a complete map of the actual advance curve for their particular vehicle, the timing reading isn't going to mean anything. They might as well set it by ear -- in fact, that would be much more accurate. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/9/08 12:54 PM, The Roxter at rocknatural at gmail.com wrote: > I never set the timing at idle. I set it at maximum advance at higher revs. > This prevents over advance at higher revs. > > -The Roxter > -- From jkk at adams.net Wed Jul 9 22:00:26 2008 From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 23:00:26 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Was: Advice needed regarding welder References: <346934.79693.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007101c8e241$7cda1dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1> Rick, I have a Hobart 140, too, but whatever welder you decide on, do yourself a huge favor and buy an automatic helmet. I guarantee it'll make you a much better welder, instantly. Jim From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Wed Jul 9 22:31:35 2008 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 22:31:35 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F663@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> My son is attempting to buy a MG 1100, not withstanding the fact he already own 2 MGBs and a MGBGT, none of them currently running. He is convinced that it is too good of a deal to pass up, $1500 USD for a 1966 1100 in running condition, in the Pacific northwest of the US. He is checking it out tomorrow so I am not sure of body condition. But what is a MG 1100 really worth and what things should a potential buyer be looking at? Are parts as readily available in the US for the 1100 as they are for the B? David Councill 67 BGT 72 B From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Jul 10 06:24:15 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions Message-ID: <77641.44929.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Perhaps he could contact this gentleman, he seems to know quite a bit about them.... http://www.justbritish.com/mg1100/ Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: "Councill, David" To: MGS Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 12:31:35 AM Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions My son is attempting to buy a MG 1100, not withstanding the fact he already own 2 MGBs and a MGBGT, none of them currently running. He is convinced that it is too good of a deal to pass up, $1500 USD for a 1966 1100 in running condition, in the Pacific northwest of the US. He is checking it out tomorrow so I am not sure of body condition. But what is a MG 1100 really worth and what things should a potential buyer be looking at? Are parts as readily available in the US for the 1100 as they are for the B? David Councill 67 BGT 72 B You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From david_breneman at yahoo.com Thu Jul 10 07:52:50 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 06:52:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F663@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <128028.47542.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A friend of mine had an 1100 in high school. It was a great car. Since all MGs are essentially kit cars, parts availability isn't a problem, at least for mechanical components. Trim pieces are a little harder to find. From doddk at mossmotors.com Thu Jul 10 11:43:43 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 10:43:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F663@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CBBC1@kb1.mossmotors.com> David: The MG 1100 is a pretty neat car but it's very hard to assign a value to one. There is a very limited market, so it's more a question of how badly your son wants the car. Whatever he pays for it, it's unlikely that after fixing it up the investment could be recouped. With this kind of car, you want to find the best one you can and pay the least possible. Then enjoy the heck out of it and don't worry about resale value. Parts availability is pretty good, although parts unique to the MG 1100 are going to take some hunting and perhaps sourcing to the UK where the Austin/Morris 1100 were very, very popular. The engine parts are shared with the 1098cc Spridget, the transmission with the Mini. Some rolling gear is the same as the Austin America which had the bigger 1275cc motor and an all synchro transmission. Brakes are unique to the 1100 series, of which the MG version was the only one imported. As previously stated a lot of stuff is generic BMC parts bin, such as interior door handles (same as early MGB) etc. All in all, it is a unique vehicle which should not be too difficult to keep on the road. I'd suggest checking the newstand for the British magazine "Practical Classics", it specializes in daily driver classic cars and the 1100 line is pretty popular in the UK. The cars are prone to rust, so make sure that the shell is in good condition. My brother used to run an Austin 1100 in the UK and he had it laid up in a parking garage waiting for some rust repair. The car was stolen and driven out of the garage, but was easily found as the rear subframe mounts ripped out of the shell at the first major bump. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Councill, David > Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:32 PM > To: MGS > Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions > > My son is attempting to buy a MG 1100, not withstanding the > fact he already own 2 MGBs and a MGBGT, none of them > currently running. He is convinced that it is too good of a > deal to pass up, $1500 USD for a 1966 1100 in running > condition, in the Pacific northwest of the US. He is checking > it out tomorrow so I am not sure of body condition. But what > is a MG 1100 really worth and what things should a potential > buyer be looking at? Are parts as readily available in the US > for the 1100 as they are for the B? > > > > David Councill > > 67 BGT > > 72 B From arundell at ghs.com.au Thu Jul 10 16:49:03 2008 From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 08:49:03 +1000 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions In-Reply-To: <128028.47542.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F663@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <128028.47542.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007e01c8e2df$282ecfc0$788c6f40$@com.au> MGs could never be termed a "Kit" car. For a start you could never order them as a kit and assemble them at home. So am surprised at your description. Murray Arundell Brisbane Australia -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Breneman Sent: Thursday, 10 July 2008 11:53 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions A friend of mine had an 1100 in high school. It was a great car. Since all MGs are essentially kit cars, parts availability isn't a problem, at least for mechanical components. Trim pieces are a little harder to find. You are subscribed as arundell at ghs.com.au Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Thu Jul 10 19:49:43 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 19:49:43 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Who Wants to Drive a Millionaire? Message-ID: <074301c8e2f8$64740130$6501a8c0@shop> Here you go, folks!!!! http://tinyurl.com/5v9o67 From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 10 20:18:46 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 19:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions In-Reply-To: <007e01c8e2df$282ecfc0$788c6f40$@com.au> Message-ID: All he was implying was that MGs were designed around a grab bag of Morris/BMC/BL corporate parts, which is more or less true over their entire history, not that they were literally "kit" cars in the "some assembly required" sense of early Loti or Fiberfab Jamaicans. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/10/08 3:49 PM, Murray Arundell at arundell at ghs.com.au wrote: > MGs could never be termed a "Kit" car. For a start you could never order > them as a kit and assemble them at home. So am surprised at your > description. > > Murray Arundell > Brisbane Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David > Breneman > Sent: Thursday, 10 July 2008 11:53 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions > > A friend of mine had an 1100 in high school. It was a great car. > Since all MGs are essentially kit cars, parts availability isn't > a problem, at least for mechanical components. Trim pieces are > a little harder to find. > You are subscribed as arundell at ghs.com.au From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Jul 10 20:55:02 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 19:55:02 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Who Wants to Drive a Millionaire? In-Reply-To: <074301c8e2f8$64740130$6501a8c0@shop> References: <074301c8e2f8$64740130$6501a8c0@shop> Message-ID: Best line in the article: "Some sports cars, like the Corvette Z06, have been described as a ticket waiting to happen. The Koenigsegg is like Guantanamo Bay waiting to happen." On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 6:49 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: > Here you go, folks!!!! > > http://tinyurl.com/5v9o67 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Thu Jul 10 21:33:07 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 20:33:07 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Unsteady timing References: <88667493372F463FB34163DAC2789E52@XPS400> <00ce01c8e008$96af7320$0200a8c0@Three> <008301c8e0e9$4e8e2780$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <2570203EBF0C456E87B23E6FF23C1FBD@XPS400> Update: I removed the distributor and replaced it with another new one from Moss. This new one's timing mark was rock steady. I guess there is something wrong with the first one I got from Moss and I will be returning it to them. It has only been in my MGB for 300 miles since my engine rebuild. Thanks to all who responded with advise. Ron Fine ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Hunt To: Ron Fine ; MG List Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Unsteady timing Ron - for a new distributor I'd say that is wrong. I'd expect the light spring to be under some tension, only the heavy spring should be loose on its pins. It is this that gives the 'curve', which is actually a knee rather than a curve as the rate of advance is high initially when only the light spring is in use, then when the heavy spring comes into play the rate of advance is reduced. I have had a 'professionally' rebuilt distributor in the past where there was only one spring inside, it had the incorrect maximum advance stop (he had ground the number off so you couldn't read it but made no attempt to grind the stop as well to give the correct figure) and an incorrect vacuum can for the reference number. I am very suspicious of new or rebuilt distributors. Even Moss admitted they had been selling distributors with the wrong curve for years, taking the manufacturers word for it. Eventually they tested some, found them consistently wrong, and got the manufacturer to correct it. I wonder how many suppliers would do that? Paul. ----- Original Message ----- ... I tried turning the rotor anti-clockwise. There is a small degree of slop before the spring pressure is felt and when the rotor is released it does not return completely to the clockwise stop. The rotor will move a few degrees counter-clockwise before the spring pressure is felt. There is no sideways movement. Does that sound correct or is there too much play in the rotation? From david_breneman at yahoo.com Thu Jul 10 21:49:16 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 20:49:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <007e01c8e2df$282ecfc0$788c6f40$@com.au> Message-ID: <953575.49775.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Thu, 7/10/08, Murray Arundell wrote: > MGs could never be termed a "Kit" car. For a > start you could never order > them as a kit and assemble them at home. So am surprised > at your description. My description is based on the fact that like all British car companies of the era, MG itself *made* very little. They bought gauges from Smiths, electrical components from Lucas, wheels from Dunlop, etc. Drivetrain components were derived from a standard assortment produced by their parent company. The same ash tray that was in my MGB was in my MGA, and it was in most Jaguars as well. (They didn't even make their own body panels.) You'd never see that kind of parts interchangability between Mercedes and BMW, or Ford and Chevrolet, and the inability to control suppliers may have been a big part of the cost-containment problems that led to the death of the British car industry. The closest analogy today is the Boeing 787, and they've been having some very British-car-company-like problems synchronizing the arrival and assembly of parts sourced from suppliers all over the world. From david_breneman at yahoo.com Thu Jul 10 21:52:57 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 20:52:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <953575.49775.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <988163.68477.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> BTW, I should add that that "kit car" nature has left British car enthusiasts with the very pleasant situation we have today wherein companies like Moss can provide stock parts for many cars that, if they were comprised totally of proprietary components, would be impossible to maintain economically today. From kgrowler at aol.com Thu Jul 10 21:53:32 2008 From: kgrowler at aol.com (kgrowler at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 23:53:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions Message-ID: <8CAB120D243F455-31C-14FF@webmail-me15.sysops.aol.com> David, Contact the North American MGB Register < www.namgbr.org > B 1100/1300 Register. Bill Fox is the Registrar and is extremely enthusiastic about these cars and would be glad to assist. 1100's are fairly rare over here but I've found their owners more that make up for the small numbers with great devotion and enthusiasm. There's a gorgeous one near me in Naperville, IL that I always enjoy seeing. Kim Tonry Downers Grove, Illinois USAB From james.nazarian at gmail.com Fri Jul 11 00:15:35 2008 From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 02:15:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <953575.49775.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4876fa91.02fd220a.2364.ffff8a95@mx.google.com> I think you'll find that in the modern automotive industry that the 'manufacturer' makes very few, if any, parts. Practically everything is outsourced to Tier 1 suppliers who then outsource subassemblies to Tier 2 (etc) suppliers. The auto manufacturer's job is to set a specification that the supplier(s) must meet and to assemble the relevant parts into a whole car. MG may have been buying off the shelf parts, but the modern companies also do that whenever they can. There is no better way to develop a part than to buy one that someone else already amortized. The bit where the British get themselves in trouble is the seemingly haphazard nature of parts application. If memory serves, there were 7 different alternators in the MGB, however you can't tie them to vin numbers. It seemed that whatever was in stock that month (or year) got used. In the modern industry, there could easily be 7 different alternators, but each one can be tied to a set of vin numbers. In both cases, odds are that the company who's badge was on the bonnet didn't make them. If you look at a GM vehicle, I doubt you'll find a single part made by GM. GM might own the companies that make the parts, but they don't make parts themselves. They make drawings and they assemble cars. That's it. James -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Breneman Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 11:49 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) --- On Thu, 7/10/08, Murray Arundell wrote: > MGs could never be termed a "Kit" car. For a start you could never > order them as a kit and assemble them at home. So am surprised at > your description. My description is based on the fact that like all British car companies of the era, MG itself *made* very little. They bought gauges from Smiths, electrical components from Lucas, wheels from Dunlop, etc. Drivetrain components were derived from a standard assortment produced by their parent company. The same ash tray that was in my MGB was in my MGA, and it was in most Jaguars as well. (They didn't even make their own body panels.) You'd never see that kind of parts interchangability between Mercedes and BMW, or Ford and Chevrolet, and the inability to control suppliers may have been a big part of the cost-containment problems that led to the death of the British car industry. The closest analogy today is the Boeing 787, and they've been having some very British-car-company-like problems synchronizing the arrival and assembly of parts sourced from suppliers all over the world. You are subscribed as james.nazarian at gmail.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jul 11 02:37:11 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 09:37:11 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) References: <4876fa91.02fd220a.2364.ffff8a95@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <00e601c8e332$18411ed0$0200a8c0@Three> That's a different issue. Outsourced or not they will be manufactured to the vehicle manufacturers spec, and this could still be unique to one model or common across several models. Body assemblies are usually to the vehicle manufacturers design, mechanical assemblies can be off-the-shelf as in suspension and steering components, electrical are more likely to be off-the-shelf, the 'off the shelf' manufacturers supplying to many vehicle manufacturers e.g. Bosch, Lucas and Delco. I'm not aware of seven different alternators for the MGB personally, the changes I am aware of *were* by chassis number as the outputs were steadily increased to cope with increasing loads. Sometimes there were components from different manufacturers at the same time, but this is good commercial practice as competition keeps prices down, although it was more applicable to later BL products in my experience than the MGB. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I think you'll find that in the modern automotive industry that the 'manufacturer' makes very few, if any, parts. Practically everything is outsourced to Tier 1 suppliers who then outsource subassemblies to Tier 2 (etc) suppliers. From eric at erickson.on.net Fri Jul 11 06:10:22 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 21:40:22 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CBBC1@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CBBC1@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: On 11/07/2008, at 3:13 AM, Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > David: > > The MG 1100 is a pretty neat car but it's very hard to assign a > value to > one. There is a very limited market, so it's more a question of how > badly your son wants the car. Whatever he pays for it, it's unlikely > that after fixing it up the investment could be recouped. > It is interesting how few there are in our club (remember, we have 1000 members). We have one 1100 enthusiast who competes in his. He usually wins most events and shows that he enters (usually because he is generally the only one in his class) - but it is a pretty neat and tidy car. He has worked hard on brining it up to scratch but he still "throws" it around a motorkhana track and recently put it on the racetrack for our MG Challenge weekend. He was thrilled to find that for once he wasn't the slowest car out there and picking up speed through some of the corners I could see he may even have caught THE BUG (the grin on his face back in the pits was priceless). The 1100 isn't really a competition vehicle :-) Oh yeah - we all love the hydrospastic... err hydrolastic suspension is great to see settling down after the car comes to a rapid halt in the motorkhana events. A neat little car - and a comfortable ride, too. Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From Aeseeyou at aol.com Fri Jul 11 08:11:34 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 10:11:34 EDT Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) Message-ID: In a message dated 7/10/2008 8:49:49 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, david_breneman at yahoo.com writes: My description is based on the fact that like all British car companies of the era, MG itself *made* very little. They bought gauges from Smiths, electrical components from Lucas, wheels from Dunlop, etc. Drivetrain components were derived from a standard assortment produced by their parent company I believe the proper term was "Bin build" as the cars (MGB's included) would be built by using parts out of various "Bins" located along the assembly line at Abingdon. This was how most if not all cars were built during the BMC/British Leyland years. Albert Escalante--CCBCC/West Coast/USA **************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com! (http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112) From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Jul 11 08:14:11 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 07:14:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG 1100 questions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <146141.62008.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Fri, 7/11/08, Eric Erickson wrote: > A neat little car - and a comfortable ride, too. And it seats six! At least, six skinny high school kids, in my personal experience. I don't know if it would seat six fat old men, my friend sold his long ago. :-) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jul 11 08:35:06 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 15:35:06 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) References: Message-ID: <007201c8e365$3481c120$0200a8c0@Three> The term 'bin' in 'parts bin' as applied to what BL products were built from didn't refer to the bins along any one production line, but the fact that common mechanical and electrical parts were used across a variety of models and factories. MG *did* design and manufacture pretty-well everything for a few years up to the point when Lord Nuffield transferred MG and Wolseley from his personal ownership to that of Morris Motors in the mid-30s. At that point the MG design office was closed down (by Len Lord, office politics and ego being well entrenched even then) with the exception of one person, all future designs were done from Cowley, and most mechanical and electrical parts had to be drawn from the Cowley 'parts bin'. It is from this time that the MoWoG logo on many parts dates, signifying Morris, Wolseley and mG using common parts. Subsequently Abingdon got design back, less so the choice of components. Ironically Australian built MGBs *were* kit cars, a near-complete kit of parts being sent out for local assembly, with some local content. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I believe the proper term was "Bin build" as the cars (MGB's included) would be built by using parts out of various "Bins" located along the assembly line at Abingdon. From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Fri Jul 11 11:03:32 2008 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:03:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <007201c8e365$3481c120$0200a8c0@Three> References: <007201c8e365$3481c120$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B21E38BA@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> For good or for ill, it is the commonality of parts -- or at least the similarity of parts if they are not identical -- among British cars is one of the things that I like about them. Knowledge that I gain working on something for, say, my Triumph is often completely transferable to one of the other cars in my garage. It also means that I'm pretty much always in my comfort zone -- which perhaps means I'm getting old. :o) Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1959 Austin Healey 3000 1971 Triumph TR-6 (girlfriend's car) Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication and its attachments have been sent to you from Powell Goldstein LLP and may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. If you are not the intended recipient appearing in the address lines of this communication, you should not rely upon it. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From doddk at mossmotors.com Fri Jul 11 11:15:43 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 10:15:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B21E38BA@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E2CBD68@kb1.mossmotors.com> The comonality can be a curse though, as there have been numerous occasions when a hopeful person would hold up a part for me to examine from a British car (typically either a race car or other exotic) and ask; "isn't this the same as something you carry?". The crestfallen look on their faces when I politely point out that; "no, none of the regular sports cars had aluminium hubs". Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Steinman, Bill > Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 10:04 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) > > For good or for ill, it is the commonality of parts -- or at > least the similarity of parts if they are not identical -- > among British cars is one of the things that I like about > them. Knowledge that I gain working on something for, say, > my Triumph is often completely transferable to one of the > other cars in my garage. It also means that I'm pretty much > always in my comfort zone -- which perhaps means I'm getting old. :o) > > > Bill S. > 2005 Lotus Elise > 1968 Triumph TR-250 > 1968 MGC Tourer > 1965 Sunbeam Tiger > 1959 Austin Healey 3000 > 1971 Triumph TR-6 (girlfriend's car) From WSpohn4 at aol.com Fri Jul 11 11:25:11 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:25:11 EDT Subject: [Mgs] British "Kit Cars" (Was: MG 1100 questions) Message-ID: Kind of a fun challenge to try and figure out what the part is from or what it was modified from though. On my Jensens, for instance, we have bits from old Lucas, Jaguars, Austin taxies, postal vans, Rileys, old Chryslers, usually about 5 years before the date of the Jensen, plus some really oddball stuff like the selectaride rear shocks adjustable with a switch on the dash. And the radiator, which I swear was used a boat anchor for a rather large scow somewhere. When I had my charging system expire on me in Redding California, I removed the suspect regulator from the firewall and took it to a nearby NAPA store, The guy (an old guy, obviously) said instantly - Ah, 1958 Desoto, how many would you like?" Bill In a message dated 7/11/2008 10:13:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: The comonality can be a curse though, as there have been numerous occasions when a hopeful person would hold up a part for me to examine from a British car (typically either a race car or other exotic) and ask; "isn't this the same as something you carry?". The crestfallen look on their faces when I politely point out that; "no, none of the regular sports cars had aluminium hubs". From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Fri Jul 11 14:27:06 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:27:06 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Who Wants to Drive a Millionaire? In-Reply-To: References: <074301c8e2f8$64740130$6501a8c0@shop> Message-ID: <40b437200807111327q715d9089m6effe3d568284c11@mail.gmail.com> For more about these cars, try this: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Koenigsegg+top+gear&search_type=&aq=f Regards, Simon On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 7:55 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Best line in the article: > "Some sports cars, like the Corvette Z06, have been described as a ticket > waiting to happen. The Koenigsegg is like Guantanamo Bay waiting to happen." > > On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 6:49 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: > >> Here you go, folks!!!! >> >> http://tinyurl.com/5v9o67 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> >> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com >> >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as simon.d.matthews at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 11 14:45:43 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 13:45:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Who Wants to Drive a Millionaire? [Humpty Dumpty?] In-Reply-To: <40b437200807111327q715d9089m6effe3d568284c11@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I'm sorry, I can't help but read that name as "King's Egg" (German/English mash-up), which makes it hard for me to take it seriously. Some people just shouldn't use their own monikers as brandnames. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/11/08 1:27 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote: > For more about these cars, try this: > http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Koenigsegg+top+gear&search_type=&a > q=f > > Regards, > Simon > > On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 7:55 PM, Richard Ewald > wrote: >> Best line in the article: >> "Some sports cars, like the Corvette Z06, have been described as a ticket >> waiting to happen. The Koenigsegg is like Guantanamo Bay waiting to happen." >> >> On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 6:49 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: >> >>> Here you go, folks!!!! >>> >>> http://tinyurl.com/5v9o67 From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Jul 12 11:38:45 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 10:38:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Tight Nuts! Message-ID: <677065.58068.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Is there a secret to getting the steering rack nuts loose? Like do they turn the opposite of normal? Or are they held in with magic? I've been working them for hours (these are the 2 nuts on either side that hold the rack ends into the back of the wheel hub). Heat, penetrating oil, brute strength (what I have of it)..... I know they've probably been in there for 32 years but still...... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Jul 12 15:18:27 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 14:18:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Tight Nuts! Message-ID: <476043.78183.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ok, well, I went back to basics - 'heat and beat'! A lot of heat from the torch, then a little beating with the BFH on my wrench, and voila, no more tight nuts! In all, it took my about 45 minutes once the first one loosened, to get them all out. Tomorrow's project is the engine mount. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Dan DiBiase To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 1:38:45 PM Subject: [MG-MGB] Tight Nuts! Is there a secret to getting the steering rack nuts loose? Like do they turn the opposite of normal? Or are they held in with magic? I've been working them for hours (these are the 2 nuts on either side that hold the rack ends into the back of the wheel hub). Heat, penetrating oil, brute strength (what I have of it)..... I know they've probably been in there for 32 years but still...... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com mailto:MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From arundell at ghs.com.au Sat Jul 12 16:48:34 2008 From: arundell at ghs.com.au (arundell at ghs.com.au) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 08:48:34 +1000 Subject: [Mgs] British 'Kit Cars' (Was: MG 1100 questions) Message-ID: <49176.1215902914@mail.webconnect.com.au> All automakers today do the same thing. Auto companies are "assemblers" relying on a raft of companies to manufacture items which they in turn assemble into a complete car. Ford GM Benz VW BMW etc all use parts manufactured by suppliers. It would be impossible for any one automaker to manufacture everything that goes into a modern car. Take Landrover for example. They take engines from Puegeot transmissions from ZF instruments from VDO ABS systems from Bosch and so it goes. So are they kit cars? Murray Arundell On Fri Jul 11 15:35 , "Paul Hunt" sent: >The term 'bin' in 'parts bin' as applied to what BL products were built from >didn't refer to the bins along any one production line, but the fact that >common mechanical and electrical parts were used across a variety of models >and factories. MG *did* design and manufacture pretty-well everything for a >few years up to the point when Lord Nuffield transferred MG and Wolseley from >his personal ownership to that of Morris Motors in the mid-30s. At that point >the MG design office was closed down (by Len Lord, office politics and ego >being well entrenched even then) with the exception of one person, all future >designs were done from Cowley, and most mechanical and electrical parts had to >be drawn from the Cowley 'parts bin'. It is from this time that the MoWoG >logo on many parts dates, signifying Morris, Wolseley and mG using common >parts. Subsequently Abingdon got design back, less so the choice of >components. > >Ironically Australian built MGBs *were* kit cars, a near-complete kit of parts >being sent out for local assembly, with some local content. > >PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > I believe the proper term was "Bin build" as the cars (MGB's included) >would > be built by using parts out of various "Bins" located along the assembly > line at Abingdon. >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as arundell at ghs.com.au > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sat Jul 12 17:18:20 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 16:18:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] British 'Kit Cars' (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <49176.1215902914@mail.webconnect.com.au> Message-ID: <530324.83871.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Sat, 7/12/08, arundell at ghs.com.au wrote: > All automakers today do the same thing. Auto companies are > "assemblers"... > So are they kit cars? My original point was that most British manufacturers used standardized parts. You would not see, for instance, the same gas gauge on a Chevrolet Corvette as you would see on a Lincoln Continental. Granted, all manufacturers source components from outside suppliers, but those components are usually made to the manufacturer's specifications. Many components of mainstream British cars were simply ordered out of a catalog. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Jul 12 17:29:32 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:29:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Engine oil flow Message-ID: <001601c8e477$23bf2630$6400a8c0@Edscomputer> Bob, Success! Vaseline did the trick. Cranked about 30 seconds and pumped oil from the open flex line to the gauge. Those front 5 oil pan bolts were fun. I think the guy that designed that arrangement was the same engineer that designed the rear motor mount. I had tried pumping oil into the oil gallery to prime the pump but didn't have any luck. Hence the removal of the pan and dismantling of the pump to pack it. Found nothing wrong with the assembly. Thanks to all for the advice. If there's a next time, I'll know better. Best, Ed From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Sat Jul 12 19:00:41 2008 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 21:00:41 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] GT 33 Message-ID: <0F3209CB-BF69-4E68-8C66-2736A26B32A4@tampabay.rr.com> Leaving tomorrow for GT 33. Hope to see some listers up there. Cheers, Dave Houser From battanhr at comcast.net Sat Jul 12 21:39:37 2008 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 20:39:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB In-Reply-To: <70739.85148.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <70739.85148.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <692C825726CF45DDB9D51302B052A65C@xps410> I've been looking for a locking gas cap for my '79 B, with no luck online or at the local parts houses. Today I was on a tour with other MGBs, and two of them had locking gas caps, but neither of the owners knew where to get them. One was ordered from the UK, and I found some on UK sites, but they say they are not for US or Canada use. Is that because they are vented? My B has been desmogged, so I don't know if those caps would work or not. So, does anybody know of a source for a locking gas cap for a desmogged late model B? TIA Howard Battan 54 TF 57 A 79 B From battanhr at comcast.net Sat Jul 12 21:41:59 2008 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 20:41:59 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB Message-ID: <538E6595242447B6AD1DCA0D58C5B86C@xps410> I should mention that I am looking for a chrome cap, not one of the black plastic ones I've seen advertised. Howard ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Battan" To: "MG list" Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:39 PM Subject: Locking gas cap for 79 MGB > I've been looking for a locking gas cap for my '79 B, with no luck online > or at the local parts houses. Today I was on a tour with other MGBs, and > two of them had locking gas caps, but neither of the owners knew where to > get them. One was ordered from the UK, and I found some on UK sites, but > they say they are not for US or Canada use. Is that because they are > vented? My B has been desmogged, so I don't know if those caps would work > or not. > > So, does anybody know of a source for a locking gas cap for a desmogged > late model B? > > TIA > > Howard Battan > 54 TF > 57 A > 79 B From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jul 12 22:41:04 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2008 21:41:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] British 'Kit Cars' (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <530324.83871.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <131772.99628.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many components of mainstream British cars were simply ordered out of a catalog. _______________________________________________ and still are . . . From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Jul 13 09:02:19 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 08:02:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Replace Steering Rack prior to Engine Install? Message-ID: <193965.2557.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Once I get the dr. side engine mount replaced, I was going to pop the steering rack back into the car, before I reinstall the engine and transmission. Is that the right sequence? Or should I wait until I put the engine back in, in case the mounts don't line up and I need to shift them around a bit? Can you even get to the engine mounts once the engine is in? It's so difficult to reach behind the brackets with plenty of room to work in, can't imagine how you'd do it with the lump in there. And of course, with the steering shaft going through the center of the dr side one.... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sun Jul 13 09:33:06 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 08:33:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] British 'Kit Cars' (Was: MG 1100 questions) In-Reply-To: <49182.1215917313@mail.webconnect.com.au> Message-ID: <970678.8273.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Sat, 7/12/08, arundell at ghs.com.au wrote: > Maybe not in 2008 but back in the 50s 60s & 70s you > might have. No, not then either. Maybe before the early 20s, but no later. That practice pretty much ended when the Dodge Brothers stopped supplying parts to manufacturers and started making their own cars. I'm talking about the situation in the US here, YMMV in Australia. > Nonetheless I still maintain that a Kit Car is > not the correct term as it refers to those cars that could > ordered as a Kit and assembled at > home, as per Lotus in the 60s for example. I was using the phrase eupemistically. I realize that it's not the correct techical term for what happened. Think of it as a "term of art" used for dramatic effect. Better? From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Jul 13 12:44:42 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 11:44:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 2 More Q's Message-ID: <371322.17469.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> 1) What type of oil goes in the steering rack? Not the boots but the steering gearbox itself..... 2) I have 4 plates that are the same diamond shape as the engine mount top piece. Are these just shims, to be used as needed? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7130012.jpg Work is going well, otherwise. Just need to wait until my wife gets home from shopping to reinstall the rack, as I can't get the shaft back into the u-joint in the proper position while using my feet to push on the rack bar from below.... It's a tight fit! I'm going to temporarily put it in with just a couple of bolts, so I can steer the car around as I prepare to reinstall the engine. Probably won't get to that until next week-end, as I want to go chase a ball around a course later this afternoon ;-) Too many hobbies, not enough time! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From mgb72 at airmail.net Sun Jul 13 18:07:48 2008 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 19:07:48 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 2 More Q's In-Reply-To: <371322.17469.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <371322.17469.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001801c8e545$ca6d1630$5f474290$@net> The oil is in the boots and the gear box together. The oil will travel through the whole unit. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan DiBiase Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 1:45 PM To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List Subject: [Mgs] 2 More Q's 1) What type of oil goes in the steering rack? Not the boots but the steering gearbox itself..... 2) I have 4 plates that are the same diamond shape as the engine mount top piece. Are these just shims, to be used as needed? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7 130012.jpg Work is going well, otherwise. Just need to wait until my wife gets home from shopping to reinstall the rack, as I can't get the shaft back into the u-joint in the proper position while using my feet to push on the rack bar from below.... It's a tight fit! I'm going to temporarily put it in with just a couple of bolts, so I can steer the car around as I prepare to reinstall the engine. Probably won't get to that until next week-end, as I want to go chase a ball around a course later this afternoon ;-) Too many hobbies, not enough time! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html _______________________________________________ From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Jul 13 18:39:28 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 19:39:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] OT -- Chicagoland Speedway Tickets Message-ID: <043601c8e54a$13dc3b80$6401a8c0@Larry> For you roundy-rounder fans: My neighbor has 5 tickets to the ARCA 200 race and the Indy Car 300 race at Chicagoland Speedway on Sept. 6 and 7, respectively. He doesn't need/want them and is willing to part with them cheap. Each ARCA ticket is $35 face value and the Indy Car race is $37. He will take $30 total for both days per seat -- sold together. That's $30 for $72 face per seat. Sold only in batches of either 2 or 3 tickets. Seats are Sec 121, Row 22, Seat 5 & 6; or Sec 129, Row 17, Seat 18, 19, & 20. Good seats he tells me. I wouldn't know. If you want them, let me know ASAP or they go on eBay. NFI, except he said he would buy a bottle of cheap, rot-gut whiskey to split if one of you guys buys them. OK? (That's about as close to NFI as you can get, right?) LAD From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Jul 13 19:05:11 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 18:05:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 2 More Q's Message-ID: <95224.81823.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks, Chad - but what sort of oil is used? Regular engine oil? Or is there a specific oil? It sure looked like engine oil when it dribbled out.... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Chad Cooper To: Dan DiBiase ; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 8:07:48 PM Subject: RE: [Mgs] 2 More Q's The oil is in the boots and the gear box together. The oil will travel through the whole unit. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan DiBiase Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 1:45 PM To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List Subject: [Mgs] 2 More Q's 1) What type of oil goes in the steering rack? Not the boots but the steering gearbox itself..... 2) I have 4 plates that are the same diamond shape as the engine mount top piece. Are these just shims, to be used as needed? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7 130012.jpg Work is going well, otherwise. Just need to wait until my wife gets home from shopping to reinstall the rack, as I can't get the shaft back into the u-joint in the proper position while using my feet to push on the rack bar from below.... It's a tight fit! I'm going to temporarily put it in with just a couple of bolts, so I can steer the car around as I prepare to reinstall the engine. Probably won't get to that until next week-end, as I want to go chase a ball around a course later this afternoon ;-) Too many hobbies, not enough time! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html _______________________________________________ From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jul 14 10:10:12 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 12:10:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB Message-ID: <20080714.121102.2320.16.MGBOB@juno.com> Howard, The OEM cap for your car is non-vented, the venting being accomplished by one of the lines that runs from the tank to the fuel separator in the rear fender on to the adsorbtion cannister at the firewall. As this plumbing does not adversely affect engine operation, most leave it in place when removing the engine's de-smog bits. If the vent line has been closed, your tank would be venting through the cap now. If vent line is open, a non-vented cap allows the cannister to collect vapors evaporating from the gasoline in the tank. I suspect that the MGB's cap is not unique to the MGB, but that the market is so small that it may not be listed for MGs in a catalogue. I bought one years and years ago, lost it and did not replace it; they were available at one time. You might take the cap you have and compare to inventory at the auto parts store. If you can't find a locking cap, you could rig up a screen of some sort inside the filler neck, something that would stop entry of a syphon hose but that would allow fuel to pass easily, something like 1/4" hardware cloth. Around here, I'm not aware of gasoline syphoning taking place, but have heard on the news of large diesel tanks being punched through at the bottom if they had locking caps. Bob On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 20:39:37 -0700 "Howard Battan" writes: > I've been looking for a locking gas cap for my '79 B, with no luck ____________________________________________________________ Click to get a free auto insurance quotes from top companies. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2nssk5VNLUG0hucMuIuowK14skn0Do9lUYUAeRdnjuHlSN/ From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jul 14 10:25:22 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 12:25:22 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 2 More Q's Message-ID: <20080714.122523.2320.19.MGBOB@juno.com> Dan, It's 90w gear oil. The oil squishes back and forth from boots to rack. If the rack is still out of the car, it's easy fill it while you can stand it on end. Work the rack slowly to distribute the oil as you fill, else it burps and you can get a facefull of oil. If it's on the car by now, you can fill into a boot, but do it slowly and work the rack back and forth as you do it--easier if you have a helper. Moss catalogue does not give those plates a part # but does show them in place. Others may know more about the need for them and how they are used. Unless you learn to the contrary, I would install them as originally fitted. Bob On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 11:44:42 -0700 (PDT) Dan DiBiase writes: > 1) What type of oil goes in the steering rack? Not the boots but the > steering gearbox itself..... > > 2) I have 4 plates that are the same diamond shape as the engine > mount top piece. Are these just shims, to be used > as needed? > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work /P7130012.jpg > > Work is going well, otherwise. Just need to wait until my wife gets > home from shopping to reinstall the rack, as I can't get the > shaft back into the u-joint in the proper position while using my > feet to push on the rack bar from below.... It's a tight fit! I'm > going > to temporarily put it in with just a couple of bolts, so I can steer > the car around as I prepare to reinstall the engine. Probably > won't get to that until next week-end, as I want to go chase a ball > around a course later this afternoon ;-) Too many hobbies, > not enough time! > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > ____________________________________________________________ Click to find deals on GPS Systems, don't get lost. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nQ3nuK81vJ0zpMmruTvA1KIzcmLV9ZaByjcPGLnSiRzMJdr/ From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Jul 14 11:23:09 2008 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 11:23:09 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] 2 More Q's In-Reply-To: <20080714.122523.2320.19.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080714.122523.2320.19.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F680@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Those other pieces are likely the shims and will have variable thicknesses. You should put them back as they were unless you replace the dampener piece - it's a copper cup with a spring inside. It is a common wear item that will develop a groove where it contacts the inner rack, particularly if the rack runs dry. You can adjust the shims. I am not sure of their present day availability but without them in place, the rack will have a greater resistance moving side to side. I add the shims until it gets to the point that the steering rack moves freely side to side. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Howard Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 10:25 AM To: d_dibiase at yahoo.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Mgs] 2 More Q's Dan, It's 90w gear oil. The oil squishes back and forth from boots to rack. If the rack is still out of the car, it's easy fill it while you can stand it on end. Work the rack slowly to distribute the oil as you fill, else it burps and you can get a facefull of oil. If it's on the car by now, you can fill into a boot, but do it slowly and work the rack back and forth as you do it--easier if you have a helper. Moss catalogue does not give those plates a part # but does show them in place. Others may know more about the need for them and how they are used. Unless you learn to the contrary, I would install them as originally fitted. Bob From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Jul 14 11:40:42 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:40:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB In-Reply-To: <692C825726CF45DDB9D51302B052A65C@xps410> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E1672@kb1.mossmotors.com> Howard: Currently AFAIK there is no new source for locking gas caps for the Federal MGB with non vented cap. The UK cars stayed with the earlier (pre-'70) design and there are a number of different locking caps available for that design. The early vented caps catch on the inside of the filler neck, while the later non-vented caps catch on the outside of the neck, so they are not interchangable. The later MGB cap is also used on the MG Midget and might possibly be on something else, but nothing that I'm aware of. The last design of locking cap for the later car was discontinued in the mid 90s, so they are a bit difficult to find. The good news is that we got approval for production on a nifty locking cap for the late cars, complete with MG logo. They should be available fairly soon. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Howard Battan > Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:40 PM > To: MG list > Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB > > I've been looking for a locking gas cap for my '79 B, with no > luck online or at the local parts houses. Today I was on a > tour with other MGBs, and two of them had locking gas caps, > but neither of the owners knew where to get them. > One was ordered from the UK, and I found some on UK sites, > but they say they are not for US or Canada use. Is that > because they are vented? My B has been desmogged, so I don't > know if those caps would work or not. > > So, does anybody know of a source for a locking gas cap for a > desmogged late model B? > > TIA > > Howard Battan > 54 TF > 57 A > 79 B From battanhr at comcast.net Mon Jul 14 12:31:33 2008 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 11:31:33 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Fw: Locking gas cap for 79 MGB Message-ID: <6419ED7B8C7C4DCDAED83D26CA3FE0AD@xps410> Thanks, Kelvin. I'll keep a lookout for the new cap. Howard Battan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dodd, Kelvin" > To: "Howard Battan" ; "MG list" > The good news is that we got approval for production on a nifty locking > cap for the late cars, complete with MG logo. They should be available > fairly soon. > Kelvin Dodd From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 15 02:38:14 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:38:14 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB References: <70739.85148.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <692C825726CF45DDB9D51302B052A65C@xps410> Message-ID: <007101c8e665$c4ef1f70$0200a8c0@Three> A vented i.e. UK cap will work on all North American cars regardless of whether the tank vent to the charcoal canister has been sealed off or not. But if you car has been desmogged and the original tank vent sealed then you *must* use a vented filler cap or you will get fuel starvation. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- One was ordered from the UK, and I found some on UK sites, but they say they are not for US or Canada use. Is that because they are vented? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 15 02:44:02 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:44:02 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Replace Steering Rack prior to Engine Install? References: <193965.2557.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007301c8e665$c53920c0$0200a8c0@Three> Even if you are sure you are going to be able to get at the nuts and bolts that attach the rubber mount to the engine mounting bracket (or the mounting bracket to the block) you still wouldn't really be able to finally tighten the nut on the bottom of the rubber mount until you have attached them. This *can* be finally tightened with the rack in place with an open spanner, but there doesn't seem much point in removing the rack to get the engine out then refitting it before replacement. Reassembly is usually the reverse of dissassembly. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Once I get the dr. side engine mount replaced, I was going to pop the steering rack back into the car, before I reinstall the engine and transmission. Is that the right sequence? . __,_._,___ From battanhr at comcast.net Tue Jul 15 09:33:00 2008 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 08:33:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB In-Reply-To: <007101c8e665$c4ef1f70$0200a8c0@Three> References: <70739.85148.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <692C825726CF45DDB9D51302B052A65C@xps410> <007101c8e665$c4ef1f70$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <38F1DABE1B1C4E94882C261A2FF8054A@xps410> Thanks, Paul. I guessed as much. My vent line is still in place to the charcoal canister, so I should be able to use vented or non-vented. Howard Battan ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Hunt To: Howard Battan ; MG list Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 1:38 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB A vented i.e. UK cap will work on all North American cars regardless of whether the tank vent to the charcoal canister has been sealed off or not. But if you car has been desmogged and the original tank vent sealed then you *must* use a vented filler cap or you will get fuel starvation. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- One was ordered from the UK, and I found some on UK sites, but they say they are not for US or Canada use. Is that because they are vented? From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 15 10:30:42 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:30:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB In-Reply-To: <007101c8e665$c4ef1f70$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E1842@kb1.mossmotors.com> Paul: I'm confused on this, but you should be able to clear it up since you have the late V8 car. Does the fuel filler cap on your V8 grab on the outside of the filler tube, or does it have two tabs that lock to the inside of the filler tube. There is a change point in the UK filler necks AHH6281 - CHA444, but I think that is only the change from angled tank inlet with straight hose, to vertical inlet with angled hose. I didn't think the UK cars got the outside latching filler cap. Please correct me if I'm wrong. thanks Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Paul Hunt > Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 1:38 AM > To: Howard Battan; MG list > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Locking gas cap for 79 MGB > > A vented i.e. UK cap will work on all North American cars > regardless of whether the tank vent to the charcoal canister > has been sealed off or not. > But if you car has been desmogged and the original tank vent > sealed then you > *must* use a vented filler cap or you will get fuel starvation. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- From mgbnutt at aol.com Tue Jul 15 12:53:38 2008 From: mgbnutt at aol.com (mgbnutt at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 14:53:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB RIP In-Reply-To: <3590.212.238.243.108.1214915225.squirrel@vandivere.net> References: <3590.212.238.243.108.1214915225.squirrel@vandivere.net> Message-ID: <8CAB4C339DB085D-1534-15AC@FWM-M34.sysops.aol.com> Derek, I am waiting for the next installment: What was/is wrong with your car?? Seems like if your mechanic is pulling the head you might as well get it fixed too, rather than parting out the car... eagerly, Donny V 1978 MGB -----Original Message----- From: derek at vandivere.net To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 8:27 am Subject: [Mgs] MGB RIP So, after a weekend of working on the damn B to try to get it more reliable (basically, fixed the wiring in fan number two, replaced the coolant, as well as some other minor stuff), it broke down on me last week. Got to work (100km) fine, on the way back started running hot so I pulled over. Added some coolant, waited a bit, then it wouldn't go into gear. Called the roadside service, he pumped some oil into the clutch system, got another five km, and gave up. The temperature gauge never pegged, but I was getting some valve clatter. Waited another half hour for a tow, then decided to try starting it up - lots of valve clatter and lots of beautiful white smoke. Mechanic's taking off the cylinder head tomorrow to see if it's salvageable - otherwise, I guess I have a lot of '78 B parts for sale in Amsterdam... Now I just want to know what the hell I did to the car. I'm sure it's my fault somehow, just not sure. As you can imagine, I've been reading the "MGBs are reliable" thread with some irony. Think I'll shout a few more obscenities now... Derek From mgbnutt at aol.com Tue Jul 15 13:10:35 2008 From: mgbnutt at aol.com (mgbnutt at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:10:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Steering column lock Message-ID: <8CAB4C5980720E3-1534-1776@FWM-M34.sysops.aol.com> Help!? My ignition key is stuck and I am at a loss as to?how proceed.?Should I force it?? Do I need to take the lock apart?? I assume some piece of 30+ year old zinc has corroded to dust and now the key is stuck in the "ON" position.? At least the column?is unlocked and I can start the car, but I won't be able to turn it off and get the key out. I seem to remember reading something in more than one book about not lubricating the ignition lock...is that true, or can I squirt some WD40 in there? Any suggestions welcome! Thanks, donny v '78 MGB From mgbob at juno.com Tue Jul 15 13:50:13 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:50:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Steering column lock Message-ID: <20080715.160340.2836.26.MGBOB@juno.com> Donny, It's a good assumption that something 30 years old has corroded and jammed the key. It's awkward to leave the key in the switch unless the unattended car is in a locked garage.... Have you jiggled the steering wheel to see if the lock might move slightly and release the key? If that doesn't work, you will want to remove the lock, whether to replace it or give it a cleaning, so I'd give it a blast of WD40 in hopes that it would dislodge the particle causing the sticking, allowing you to get the key out. Cleaning and inspecting is in order at that point, so the WD40 won't have lasting ill effects. One doesn't want gummy stuff in locks, which is why oils are not generally used, but you will be removing the lock anyway so it will do no harm. Moss has the switch and lock assemblies and switches for most models. Bob On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:10:35 -0400 mgbnutt at aol.com writes: > Help!? My ignition key is stuck and I am at a loss as to?how > proceed.?Should I force it?? Do I need to take the lock apart?? I > assume some piece of 30+ year old zinc has corroded to dust and now > the key is stuck in the "ON" position.? At least the column?is > unlocked and I can start the car, but I won't be able to turn it off > and get the key out. > > I seem to remember reading something in more than one book about not > lubricating the ignition lock...is that true, or can I squirt some > WD40 in there? > > Any suggestions welcome! > Thanks, > donny v > '78 MGB ____________________________________________________________ Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nLmKviFseX1B4bveh3Zh41dyO240ERwBwgOQYiRMcpL6g2x/ From ptrmgb at gmail.com Tue Jul 15 14:07:54 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:07:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Steering column lock In-Reply-To: <8CAB4C5980720E3-1534-1776@FWM-M34.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CAB4C5980720E3-1534-1776@FWM-M34.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4334A9B2-52E8-4412-90CB-DFD3E0B3B5D0@gmail.com> I'm going to assume that you are pushing the release button on the lock mechanism. That's probably what's broken. Penetrating oil, not WD40. On Jul 15, 2008, at 2:10 PM, mgbnutt at aol.com wrote: > Help!? My ignition key is stuck and I am at a loss as to?how > proceed.?Should I force it?? Do I need to take the lock apart?? I > assume some piece of 30+ year old zinc has corroded to dust and now > the key is stuck in the "ON" position.? At least the column?is > unlocked and I can start the car, but I won't be able to turn it off > and get the key out. > > I seem to remember reading something in more than one book about not > lubricating the ignition lock...is that true, or can I squirt some > WD40 in there? > > Any suggestions welcome! > Thanks, > donny v > '78 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From fisher at hctc.net Fri Jul 18 10:24:52 2008 From: fisher at hctc.net (Fisher or Elizabeth Jones) Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 11:24:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Auction Message-ID: Hello Everyone, Fisher is back home again, now. My thanks to Robert Houston for letting you know of the change in plans because of the heart attack. Fisher also developed pneumonia whilst he was in the hospital, and it is something I shall have to be very careful of, as he is still bedridden for the most part. Thank you to everyone who sent messages of support. I'm not too sure just when I will be able to start the proposed Auto Rummages, but I will let you know just as soon as I can. As you might imagine, I am kept quite busy, so please accept this as a personal note to everyone who planned to attend. A long-time friend of Fisher's has been trying to help, whilst I've been at the hospital, and to this end he has suggested an auction of some of the cars, and I have added his message to the foot of this, for any of you who might be interested. elizabeth From: Douglas Doidge To: Kip Lankenau , Fisher & Elizabeth Jones , Subject: Auction The following cars are being offered at auction. The highest bidder is under no obligation to buy the car he/she bids on but is entitled to an inspection visit (by appointment) at which tim he/she pays for the car if he/she is satisfied with his/her purchase. These cars are sold with no title, for parts only. AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE Mk I (race car, alloy wheels, no drive-train, HD springs, offset rear springs, 2 steel hoods l- $1750 reserve) The reserve is for one body and one bonnet, the other bonnet is being sold separately. DATSUN SSS 4dr Sedan (mid 60s) (believed to be 1600 pushrod as in roadster - copy of MGA engine) JAGUAR Mk II (RH drive, auto, 2.4L, 1965)(includes spare 3.8 engine) MGB/GT (1972 - clutch and transmission replaced in 2000 and not driven since) TRIUMPH SPITFIRE Mk IV BMW 2002 BMW 1600 PORSCHE 911 ('67 911S - some assembly required - 2ltr motor is all there with the exception of the cams. A 2.5ltr motor also goes with the car) Some parts are also being offered: High Ratio Roller ocker set fr 948/1100/1275 engines, by Sharp. 5X13 4X4" Minilite wheels, set of 4. 6X13 4X4" Minilite wheels, set of 4 The aucton will close at midnight CST July 31, 2008. Submit your bid to dougdoidge at live.com. ______________________________________________________________ Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger. IM anytime you're online. _________________________________________________________________ Fisher or Elizabeth Jones "A gentleman does not motor about after dark." Joseph Lucas 1920 From jello at cableone.net Fri Jul 18 10:39:25 2008 From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates) Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 09:39:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Auction Message-ID: <3517.1216399165@cableone.net> Location of these items????? On Fri Jul 18 11:24 , Fisher or Elizabeth Jones sent: Hello Everyone, Fisher is back home again, now. My thanks to Robert Houston for letting you know of the change in plans because of the heart attack. Fisher also developed pneumonia whilst he was in the hospital, and it is something I shall have to be very careful of, as he is still bedridden for the most part. Thank you to everyone who sent messages of support. I'm not too sure just when I will be able to start the proposed Auto Rummages, but I will let you know just as soon as I can. As you might imagine, I am kept quite busy, so please accept this as a personal note to everyone who planned to attend. A long-time friend of Fisher's has been trying to help, whilst I've been at the hospital, and to this end he has suggested an auction of some of the cars, and I have added his message to the foot of this, for any of you who might be interested. elizabeth From: Douglas Doidge To: Kip Lankenau , Fisher & Elizabeth Jones , Subject: Auction The following cars are being offered at auction. The highest bidder is under no obligation to buy the car he/she bids on but is entitled to an inspection visit (by appointment) at which tim he/she pays for the car if he/she is satisfied with his/her purchase. These cars are sold with no title, for parts only. AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE Mk I (race car, alloy wheels, no drive-train, HD springs, offset rear springs, 2 steel hoods l- $1750 reserve) The reserve is for one body and one bonnet, the other bonnet is being sold separately. DATSUN SSS 4dr Sedan (mid 60s) (believed to be 1600 pushrod as in roadster - copy of MGA engine) JAGUAR Mk II (RH drive, auto, 2.4L, 1965)(includes spare 3.8 engine) MGB/GT (1972 - clutch and transmission replaced in 2000 and not driven since) TRIUMPH SPITFIRE Mk IV BMW 2002 BMW 1600 PORSCHE 911 ('67 911S - some assembly required - 2ltr motor is all there with the exception of the cams. A 2.5ltr motor also goes with the car) Some parts are also being offered: High Ratio Roller ocker set fr 948/1100/1275 engines, by Sharp. 5X13 4X4" Minilite wheels, set of 4. 6X13 4X4" Minilite wheels, set of 4 The aucton will close at midnight CST July 31, 2008. Submit your bid to dougdoidge@ live.com. ______________________________________________________________ Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger. IM anytime you're online. _________________________________________________________________ Fisher or Elizabeth Jones "A gentleman does not motor about after dark." Joseph Lucas 1920 From shop at justbrits.com Fri Jul 18 13:01:29 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 13:01:29 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Auction References: <3517.1216399165@cableone.net> Message-ID: <00da01c8e908$b06924b0$6501a8c0@shop> <> Comfort, TX Phil. From palte at gmx.net Fri Jul 18 12:26:52 2008 From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net) Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 20:26:52 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MBG Heater Valve Control Cable Q Message-ID: <20080718182652.276880@gmx.net> Hi fellow listers, The following minor problem has come up with my 1970 B: The control cable between the dashboard rotary control and the heater valve broke down, i.e. the inner cable (1.5 mm, measured with a vernier caliper) broke near the valve. (Given the bad summer weather we have here right now, this is not a big issue....) The outer diameter of the cable sleeve was 5.0 mm. Since these are metric dimensions and I presume the original cable must have had inch-related dimensions, it looks like the cable has been replaced at an earlier time, before 1989 when my ownership of the car began. I'm not sure about the length, though. Can anyone tell, what length the cable must have had? I measured something like 635 mm for the OD part and (unknown, probably about 750 mm?) for the solid inner core. My supplier sent me one that is considerably longer. But then, I'm almost sure this was not the originally fitted control cable. BTW this car still has the steel dash. (European market model, LHD, VIN # GHN5-205838). TIA Bert Holland -- GMX startet ShortView.de. Hier findest Du Leute mit Deinen Interessen! Jetzt dabei sein: http://www.shortview.de/wasistshortview.php?mc=sv_ext_mf at gmx From Thgun at comporium.net Sat Jul 19 09:00:26 2008 From: Thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 11:00:26 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1500 engine head replacement Message-ID: <000c01c8e9b0$2da9d580$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> How do you remove the carbs and intake? The lower bolts that hold the carbs on to the intake are very hard to reach. Thanks, Tom Gunderson , 1957 MGA 1500 rst From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Jul 19 09:22:11 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 00:52:11 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Big Bore gasket In-Reply-To: <000c01c8e9b0$2da9d580$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> References: <000c01c8e9b0$2da9d580$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> Message-ID: <488206A3.5030209@erickson.on.net> Hi, I hope everyone is going to have an MG weekend. Off and on rain here but I have managed to get out a few times. Sunday will see me in the garage installing my new oil/temp gauge (nice and cheap from eBay) and properly wiring up my cigarette light to help power my new GPS (a handy tool - I finally found one cheap enough and good enough to make me a late adopter). Now the question. I have bitten the bullet and I have started the "big bore" move (a bit sooner than originally planned) to finally try to match the competition on the track. And by BIG bore, I mean the previously alluded to 1948cc. All the parts are to hand (everything balanced) and the block is currently off being "seen to". I have been lucky with some bits and pieces "landing in my lap" so I have taken the hint and started moving on the project. What I really need right now (and there will be more questions... trust me) is some help with the head gasket. I don't want to put up with overhang or work around it, I want a gasket that will "fit". Does this mean customer made? Someone has already pointed me to: http://www.cometic.com Any other suggestions? Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Jul 19 11:10:14 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 02:40:14 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Big Bore gasket In-Reply-To: <488206A3.5030209@erickson.on.net> References: <000c01c8e9b0$2da9d580$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> <488206A3.5030209@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <48821FF6.8070606@erickson.on.net> Eric Erickson wrote: > > What I really need right now (and there will be more questions... trust > me) is some help with the head gasket. I don't want to put up with > overhang or work around it, I want a gasket that will "fit". > > Does this mean customer made? > > Someone has already pointed me to: http://www.cometic.com > > Any other suggestions? > And to answer my own question, has anyone had any experience with these... http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Bseries_Parts/b_Gaskets_Seals.htm HG-MGB-BB Head Gasket for MGB - Big-Bore up to 85mm Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sun Jul 20 00:54:32 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 23:54:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1500 engine head replacement In-Reply-To: <000c01c8e9b0$2da9d580$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> References: <000c01c8e9b0$2da9d580$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> Message-ID: <40b437200807192354t5b703daase3c6f8113fd485e5@mail.gmail.com> I am a little surprized that no-one has answered this, but basically, I think the answer is that it is difficult -- you have squeeze your hand down and be patient as the job does take a long time because of the poor access. Regards, Simon On Sat, Jul 19, 2008 at 8:00 AM, Tom Gunderson wrote: > How do you remove the carbs and intake? The lower bolts that hold the carbs on > to the intake are very hard to reach. > Thanks, > Tom Gunderson , 1957 MGA 1500 rst > _______________________________________________ From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Sun Jul 20 13:41:50 2008 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 15:41:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Selling an MGB In-Reply-To: <20080714.122523.2320.19.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080714.122523.2320.19.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <20080720154150.9fqes78z28ogs0wc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Hi Guys, My MGB experience is taking a '76 from here to there in the last 8-9 years. I really like the car style and have done a bunch to it to make it mine, but I was not a teenage car guy and my experience shows. I haven't been a teen for ~40 years! Wanting a chrome bumper MGB, I bought a '74 off eBay that was advertised in excellent condition. I saw it and maybe was overwhelmed by its admittedly lovely body work and paint job. When my pro mechanic saw it, he told me it wasn't the car advertised (ie, the advertisement was exaggerated) and I got taken somewhat (live and learn...no aingst or anything like that). Anyway, it does run. It is mostly in decent condition, but someone who knows could make it into great condition. I don't have either the knowledge, the space nor the inclination now (my job is overwhelming). So my question to the list: how much should I price it and where should I advertise it? I'm more honest than the previous seller so I will be (honest) clear indescribing it. What is the going rate for running, decent but not great '74's. I have lots of pictures if someone needs them to estimate...I can respond to questions on and off list. Whatever you need. Bill Saidel Bill.Saidel at gmail.com or this address NJ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Jul 20 19:41:46 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 18:41:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Engine In! Message-ID: <641281.97629.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> My 2 sons and I installed the engine into the '76 B today! Of course, we picked the hottest and most humid day yet in NJ.... Fortunately we were in a nice shady garage, where it was probably only about 100 degrees.... Install went well, you can read the details in my blog (linked below). One issue I ran into was that with the engine crane set on the 1-ton setting, the arm was just about 8 inches too short to just drop the engine right above the engine mounts. I was hitting the front bumper with the hydraulic raising mechanism. So, we had to really push it back those 8 inches to get the bolts on the engine mounts. Having 2 teenage boys comes in handy here! Next up is to reconnect everything and see how many parts are left over! ;-) Thanks to all for answering all of the q's I've had so far. There will be more.... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From trevor at boicey.com Sun Jul 20 19:53:50 2008 From: trevor at boicey.com (Trevor Boicey) Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 21:53:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG Book Collection to pass along... Message-ID: <4883EC2E.1030806@boicey.com> Being the analytical type that I am, I noticed I don't actually own any MGs any more but still have a lot of literature. Since I have to move house in a few months, I probably should find these a new home. I'd rather try this than ebay. Here is the list... Books: MG saloon cars, Clausager How to power tune Midget and Sprite, Stapleton MG sports Cars, seventy years of the Marque, Autocar How to give your MGB V8 power, Speedpro Chilton MG, 1961-1975 Chilton MG, 1961-1980 Haynes Midget and Sprite Hardcover How to Make your car Handle, Fred Puhn MG Midget Gold Portfolio MG 1945-1964 Photo Archive, David A Knowles MG 1965-1980 Photo Archive, David A Knowles MG The Book Of The Car, Clausager MGB 1969-1972 MGB, MGB-GT manual, Autobook, Hardcover, Kenneth Ball How to restore British Sports Cars, Jay Lamm MG the Magic of the Marque, Mike Allison MG Midget, Austin Healey Sprite Restoration, Preparation, Maintenance, Jim Tyler Practical Classics Midget Sprite Restoration MG Midget and Austin Healey Sprite Purchase and DIY Resoration, Lindsay Porter MG World 1975, Knudson and Lavery MG Midget and Austin Healey Sprite Service Guide and Owners Manual, Lindsay Porter and Peter Wallage Mighty Midgets and Special Sprites, John Baggott Original Manuals: MGA workshop manual, original, hardcover binder MG-ZA manual, original, soft cover binder Email if interested in any or all. I also have about 800 LBC magazines of various types, Practical Classics, Thoroughbred and Classic Cars, etc. I'm in Ottawa, Ontario. The books are shippable, the magazines somewhat less so. Cheers. From PRNDL at sonic.net Sun Jul 20 23:48:19 2008 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 22:48:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] selling an MG Message-ID: Bill, You don't say where you or the MG is located. Selling price and strategy varies widely by location and condition of the car. A good start is Craigslist, both to sell and to research local asking prices (*not* selling prices) Also local club newsletters (stop a shiny MG and ask the owner if he/she is in the local club to get contacts). If the car is truly a good candidate for a resto, someone will be interested. If it has been botched up over the years I don't think you should expect to get a lot for a '74, especially if it is now not in very original mechanical or cosmetic condition. Look at completed sales on eBay as well to see what they actually sell for. Contact local Brit car specialists to see if they know of someone looking for a car. Good luck. -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 21 02:46:28 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 09:46:28 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Engine In! References: <641281.97629.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00c601c8eb10$3e9efcb0$0200a8c0@Three> Had the same problem getting just the engine out and back in to change the clutch, also on the hottest couple of days this summer. I had to go in from the side, and even then it only just reached, with the arm in its *furthest*/lowest weight position. That meant I had to drag the hoist plus engine sideways to get it to clear the first motion shaft, with the engine pulled forward and tied off to the bonnet slam panel to stop it swinging about. Replacement was the reverse of removal. In all the accounts I had read over the years no one mentioned this potential problem with hoists. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... One issue I ran into was that with the engine crane set on the 1-ton setting, the arm was just about 8 inches too short . __,_._,___ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jul 21 05:46:53 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 04:46:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Engine In! Message-ID: <957949.95557.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Yes, and I didn't recall having this issue when I pulled everything out. If I had a 3/4-ton slot on the lift, that probably would have been perfect. Fortunately, I was using straps to reinstall. If I had been using chain attached to the rocker bolts, I'm not sure I would have had enough play to swing it in. I ended up loosening the rear strap once it was almost in, and that seemed to allow for enough rearward movement so we could push it back. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 4:46:28 AM Subject: Re: [MG-MGB] Engine In! Had the same problem getting just the engine out and back in to change the clutch, also on the hottest couple of days this summer. I had to go in from the side, and even then it only just reached, with the arm in its *furthest*/lowest weight position. That meant I had to drag the hoist plus engine sideways to get it to clear the first motion shaft, with the engine pulled forward and tied off to the bonnet slam panel to stop it swinging about. Replacement was the reverse of removal. In all the accounts I had read over the years no one mentioned this potential problem with hoists. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... One issue I ran into was that with the engine crane set on the 1-ton setting, the arm was just about 8 inches too short . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com mailto:MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jul 21 07:17:37 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 06:17:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Selling an MGB Message-ID: <41151.6498.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Bill, I'd ask guys in your club (those NOT looking to buy another B!) what they think. Also, monitoring eBay sales can help - I think you can actually search for completed auctions, and you can narrow it down to NJ or the mid-Atlantic, I think. How is the '76 running these days? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: "saidel at camden.rutgers.edu" To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 3:41:50 PM Subject: [Mgs] Selling an MGB Hi Guys, My MGB experience is taking a '76 from here to there in the last 8-9 years. I really like the car style and have done a bunch to it to make it mine, but I was not a teenage car guy and my experience shows. I haven't been a teen for ~40 years! Wanting a chrome bumper MGB, I bought a '74 off eBay that was advertised in excellent condition. I saw it and maybe was overwhelmed by its admittedly lovely body work and paint job. When my pro mechanic saw it, he told me it wasn't the car advertised (ie, the advertisement was exaggerated) and I got taken somewhat (live and learn...no aingst or anything like that). Anyway, it does run. It is mostly in decent condition, but someone who knows could make it into great condition. I don't have either the knowledge, the space nor the inclination now (my job is overwhelming). So my question to the list: how much should I price it and where should I advertise it? I'm more honest than the previous seller so I will be (honest) clear indescribing it. What is the going rate for running, decent but not great '74's. I have lots of pictures if someone needs them to estimate...I can respond to questions on and off list. Whatever you need. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jul 21 07:46:58 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 06:46:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? Message-ID: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Well, before I put the engine and transmission back in the B yesterday, I got smart and said, 'Let me fill the transmission back up with fluid now, while it's easy to get at!'. Good idea, but I confused the 90w oil for the steering rack with engine oil, and filled the transmission with the 90w. It's easily-enough changed but am wondering if the 90w will kill the (non-OD) transmission or if I really need to change it? Thx.... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jul 21 09:46:41 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 11:46:41 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? Message-ID: <20080721.114642.3540.17.MGBOB@juno.com> Dan, 90w won't kill the transmission, but John Esposito, Quantum Mechanics, a rebuilder of the things, recommends 30w engine oil. Bob On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 06:46:58 -0700 (PDT) Dan DiBiase writes: > Well, before I put the engine and transmission back in the B > yesterday, I got smart and said, 'Let me fill the transmission back > up > with fluid now, while it's easy to get at!'. Good idea, but I > confused the 90w oil for the steering rack with engine oil, and > filled the > transmission with the 90w. It's easily-enough changed but am > wondering if the 90w will kill the (non-OD) transmission or if I > really > need to change it? > > Thx.... > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - Engine Surgery In Progress... > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > ____________________________________________________________ Click here to become a professional counselor in less time than you think. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oJto5zWIh3qZZHFUMToOYCwaMtvnXIFB63X9zkqX9irE6Sx/ From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Jul 21 11:01:42 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:01:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> Dan: If I had done this to my own transmission, I would just leave the 90W in it. I'm doubting that you plan on driving the car during the winter, so unless you find the shifting is really stiff I would not worry about it. The 90W is not going to hurt the transmission at all. In really cold weather, you may find that shifting is slightly stiffer but 90W gear oil is not that much different in viscosity from 30W engine oil. At the price per barrel of oil the US is paying, I'd suggest it's your duty as a good citizen to leave it alone. : ) Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Dan DiBiase > Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 6:47 AM > To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List > Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > > Well, before I put the engine and transmission back in the B > yesterday, I got smart and said, 'Let me fill the > transmission back up with fluid now, while it's easy to get > at!'. Good idea, but I confused the 90w oil for the steering > rack with engine oil, and filled the transmission with the > 90w. It's easily-enough changed but am wondering if the 90w > will kill the (non-OD) transmission or if I really need to change it? > > Thx.... > > Dan D > Central NJ USA From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Jul 21 11:15:06 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:15:06 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: Been there done that. I would change it. With the engine cold, even in the summer, the 90W will be too thick for the snycros to work properly. Ask me how I know this. I agree that once the trans is warm it will probablly work OK, but I would be worried about eating up the syncros during the time the trans is shifting. Kevin, 90W is not that much different in viscosity from 30W engine oil? What? Maybe you have better go try pouring a litttle of each out at room temp. 90W is way thicker. Rick On 7/21/08, Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > > Dan: > > If I had done this to my own transmission, I would just leave the 90W in > it. > > I'm doubting that you plan on driving the car during the winter, so > unless you find the shifting is really stiff I would not worry about it. > > > The 90W is not going to hurt the transmission at all. In really cold > weather, you may find that shifting is slightly stiffer but 90W gear oil > is not that much different in viscosity from 30W engine oil. From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Mon Jul 21 12:35:47 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 14:35:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: No, 90 weight will not kill your transmission. 90 weight has a viscosity similar to 50 weight motor oil. Although on the heavy side, it will not kill it. Also, there is nothing wrong with using gear oil in the transmission Mark 73 MGBGT Message: 8 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 06:46:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan DiBiase Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com, MG List Message-ID: <796145.78883.qm at web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Well, before I put the engine and transmission back in the B yesterday, I got smart and said, 'Let me fill the transmission back up with fluid now, while it's easy to get at!'. Good idea, but I confused the 90w oil for the steering rack with engine oil, and filled the transmission with the 90w. It's easily-enough changed but am wondering if the 90w will kill the (non-OD) transmission or if I really need to change it? Thx.... Dan D Central NJ USA From agreenberg at aol.com Mon Jul 21 15:23:09 2008 From: agreenberg at aol.com (agreenberg at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 17:23:09 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem Message-ID: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> Folks, I have a steady stream, when the car is running, of oil seamingly from the block right under my oil filter mount. I can't for the life of me see where it's coming from. I checked the tightness of the 3/4" socket bolt under the mount but it was fine. It doesn't look like it's coming from the pan gasket because it is coming from higher up. I'm thinking of Gunking the whole area and getting a few sets of eye balls looking at the 'area'. Does anyone have any ideas??? Alex 76 MGB with a '78 engine From battanhr at comcast.net Mon Jul 21 15:38:36 2008 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 14:38:36 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem In-Reply-To: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> References: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> Message-ID: <99A18A33AEED4358B4EA33C335040036@xps410> Check where the oil filter adapter connects to the block. Mine was leaking there after replacing the adapter. The gaskets are available from the usual suspects. Howard '54 TF '57 MGA '79 MGB ----- Original Message ----- Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem > Folks, > > I have a steady stream, when the car is running, of oil seamingly from > the block right under my oil filter mount. I can't for the life of me > see where it's coming from. I checked the tightness of the 3/4" socket > bolt under the mount but it was fine. > It doesn't look like it's coming from the pan gasket because it is > coming from higher up. > I'm thinking of Gunking the whole area and getting a few sets of eye > balls looking at the 'area'. > Does anyone have any ideas??? > > Alex > > 76 MGB with a '78 engine From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Jul 21 15:43:07 2008 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 15:43:07 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem In-Reply-To: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> References: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F6B0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Based on your description, my first guess would be the rubber seal on the oil filter mount. It's a part that people probably seldom replace but would eventually deteriorate. See parts 73 and/or 78 on this Moss diagram: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28980 For those of us that use the early years (Mk 1) canister setup, these are normal items to replace with every filter change. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of agreenberg at aol.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 3:23 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem Folks, I have a steady stream, when the car is running, of oil seamingly from the block right under my oil filter mount. I can't for the life of me see where it's coming from. I checked the tightness of the 3/4" socket bolt under the mount but it was fine. It doesn't look like it's coming from the pan gasket because it is coming from higher up. I'm thinking of Gunking the whole area and getting a few sets of eye balls looking at the 'area'. Does anyone have any ideas??? Alex 76 MGB with a '78 engine From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Mon Jul 21 16:35:09 2008 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 18:35:09 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007f01c8eb82$088d8f70$19a8ae50$@com> As others have said, it will not hurt anything, but you may not like the way it shifts. I got a good price on mine since "there was something wrong with the transmission" when I bought it :-) -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ It's easily-enough changed but am wondering if the 90w will kill the (non-OD) transmission or if I really need to change it? From shop at justbrits.com Mon Jul 21 17:56:49 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 17:56:49 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem References: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F6B0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <03a901c8eb8d$713d2d90$6501a8c0@shop> <> Agreed, David. AND the bolt's washer (#75) but that, most likely, wouldn't give out the amount of oil he described!! But if it was leaking, would be a PITA to find!! From Thgun at comporium.net Mon Jul 21 17:48:44 2008 From: Thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 19:48:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1500 MGA gaskets Message-ID: <004301c8eb8c$513f9790$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> Hi, I need a gasket set for the replacement of my 1500 head. This gasket set also needs to include the intake / exhaust gaskets. I also need a temp sensor. The old one stuck and broke off. Can anybody out there give me some guidance? Thanks, Tom G. 1957 , 1500 MGA rst From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Jul 21 17:57:13 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:57:13 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1500 MGA gaskets In-Reply-To: <004301c8eb8c$513f9790$4002a8c0@Tom03B2DF8FB9> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E21AE@kb1.mossmotors.com> Tom: Your car will have a mechanical combination water temp and oil pressure guage. It doesn't have a temp sender, but a capillary tube unit that screws into the head. If this is damaged, the guage needs to be either replaced or rebuilt. New gauges run about $170 for a replacement design. You may be able to get your original rebuilt for less by companies such as Momar in Alb. N.M. or Nisonger Instrument Rebuilding on the East Coast. The head gasket set comes with intake/exhaust gasket and all the other gaskets you need to R/R the Head. This gasket set is available from a number of suppliers, including Moss Motors. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29210 Item 1A Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Tom Gunderson > Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 4:49 PM > To: Mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] 1500 MGA gaskets > > Hi, I need a gasket set for the replacement of my 1500 head. > This gasket set also needs to include the intake / exhaust > gaskets. I also need a temp sensor. The old one stuck and > broke off. Can anybody out there give me some guidance? > Thanks, Tom G. > 1957 , 1500 MGA rst From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jul 21 18:30:55 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 17:30:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Reinstall Order? Message-ID: <85097.5985.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'm not sure whether it makes a difference, but I spent some time tonight just trying to plan out the order in which I am going to hook up everything after reinstalling the engine. I'm thinking - 1) Trans connections - slave cylinder, reverse switch, speedo drive, starter 2) Crossmember & restraint rod 3) Driveshaft 4) Tighten front engine mounts (including removing/replacing steering rack) 5) Shift lever 6) Intake manifold, carb, exhaust system, air cleaner, fan, alternator 7) Remaining underhood connections - hoses, etc. 8) Radiator shroud, radiator 9) Fluid refills - brake, coolant, gearbox top-off, oil top-off, steering rack 10) Bleed brakes 11) Charge battery This sound about right, for the major items? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 22 02:02:34 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 09:02:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? References: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <014901c8ebd4$4ba24920$0200a8c0@Three> This is a fallacy. Factory V8s have 90 gear oil as standard, mine was a daily driver parked outside for many years including periods of below freezing and I never had a problem, but I can't speak for the condition of anyone else's gearbox. As long as it *is* gear oil, and not *differential* oil it should be OK, don't junk it now just wait and see how you get on. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... With the engine cold, even in the summer, the 90W will be too thick for the snycros to work properly... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 22 02:09:43 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 09:09:43 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem References: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> Message-ID: <014b01c8ebd4$4bee9460$0200a8c0@Three> Did this start after a filter change? If so have you loosened and retightened (no more than 3/4 turn after the seal contacts the filter head) the filter? At the last change on my roadster for the first time in 40 years I had a leak because the rubber seal hadn't seated properly, and that was a gusher. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have a steady stream, when the car is running, of oil seamingly from the block right under my oil filter mount. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 22 06:23:14 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 07:23:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem References: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> <014b01c8ebd4$4bee9460$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <001101c8ebf5$cd8f13c0$7d15a8c0@garage.local> or the oil gasket did not come off and now you have two. happened to me once. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 3:09 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem > Did this start after a filter change? If so have you loosened and > retightened > (no more than 3/4 turn after the seal contacts the filter head) the > filter? > At the last change on my roadster for the first time in 40 years I had a > leak > because the rubber seal hadn't seated properly, and that was a gusher. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > I have a steady stream, when the car is running, of oil seamingly from > the block right under my oil filter mount. From agreenberg at aol.com Tue Jul 22 06:47:51 2008 From: agreenberg at aol.com (agreenberg at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 08:47:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem In-Reply-To: <014b01c8ebd4$4bee9460$0200a8c0@Three> References: <8CAB98F1B924837-110-6B5@Webmail-mg06.sim.aol.com> <014b01c8ebd4$4bee9460$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <8CABA1049812EC3-15C4-8A3@webmail-mf10.sysops.aol.com> It isn't coming from under the canister but along the block. I going to pull the whole thing off this weekend and check out the seal-against-the-block setup. Time ot buy a new seal! moss here I come -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt To: mgs at autox.team.net; agreenberg at aol.com Sent: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 4:09 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil leak ( stream! ) problem Did this start after a filter change?B If so have you loosened and retightened (no more than 3/4 turn after the seal contacts the filter head) the filter?B At the last change on my roadster for the first time in 40 years I had a leak because the rubber seal hadn't seated properly, and that was a gusher. B PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have a steady stream, when the car is running, of oil seamingly from the block right under my oil filter mount. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jul 22 07:47:53 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 09:47:53 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E1842@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <002801c8ec01$8a6a3dc0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> All, A quick note to thank Kelvin and Moss Motors for providing the correct spacer, part no. 771-715, for the 6 bladed metal fan on my MG's 18V engine: Thanks Kelvin! Perfect fit. Ed Woods From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Tue Jul 22 08:00:13 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 10:00:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Update - SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7, 2008 Message-ID: <3693283.1216735213499.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net> THE BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008 Sierra Point Marina * Brisbane, CA Saturday & Sunday * September 6th & 7th Dear NorCal British Car Enthusiast, The Sierra Point British Car Meet in Brisbane is coming along great - This year, the food and drink will be handled by the Brisbane Lions Club, that will have their grill trailer with burgers, dogs, and (hopefully) bangers all day plus cold drinks, but get this!!! The Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their doors early on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down, prix fix breakfast, AND, they also have a full bar that will be open all day as well ...... Due to a number of reasons, the Saturday swap meet has been canceled for this year, but it will seriously be reconsidered for next year. If you belong to a club, make sure the general membership knows about this Sierra Point meet - meet old friends in a new location - carrying on the tradition. Cheers, Rick Feibusch Meet Coordinator - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - THE BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008 Sierra Point Marina * Brisbane, CA Saturday & Sunday * September 6th & 7th Join us for one of the most historic British automotive events in California at our new dockside venue at the Sierra Point Marina. Over 400 quirky, classic, and thoroughly lovable British cars are once again expected to grace the lawn and adjacent parking area in Brisbane, California. This is essentially the old Palo Alto meet in its new location. We are also expecting another great display of automotive oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for free. SUNDAY SHOW - SEPTEMBER 7th Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Marina. Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. British food, jazz, & more fun than you'll be able to tolerate! Awards in many classes. There will be no preregistration - all entrants will receive a commemorative gift. Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is still $25 per car at the gate. SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Sierra Point Marina boathouse (the same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea. Itbs no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them. We will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM. A map will be provided. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon. DIRECTIONS: The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway (101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just take the Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site. Call for information: 310-392-6605 e-mail: Sierra Point Marina Britmeet From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jul 22 08:38:13 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 10:38:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold Message-ID: <002201c8ec08$92917980$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> List, I have removed the air pump and gulp valve from my MG's 18V (1972) engine. There is a large, 90 degree fitting in the intake manifold that needs to be blocked. I don't want to simply cut it off and fill the hole. I'd like to be able to put all the emission stuff back on the engine with as little hassle as possible if the day ever comes to do so. So what do I use to block this opening? Any thoughts? Thanks, Ed Woods From lundgren at byu.net Tue Jul 22 09:11:46 2008 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 09:11:46 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold In-Reply-To: <002201c8ec08$92917980$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <002201c8ec08$92917980$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <1216739506.3442.1.camel@black.vdev.level3.com> Mine as a rubber hose clamped on with a bolt clamped into the end of the hose. On Tue, 2008-07-22 at 10:38 -0400, Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > I have removed the air pump and gulp valve from my MG's 18V (1972) engine. > There is a large, 90 degree fitting in the intake manifold that needs to be > blocked. I don't want to simply cut it off and fill the hole. I'd like to be > able to put all the emission stuff back on the engine with as little hassle as > possible if the day ever comes to do so. > > So what do I use to block this opening? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > > Ed Woods > ________________________________________ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jul 22 09:11:12 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 16:11:12 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold References: <002201c8ec08$92917980$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <02a601c8ec0e$af332100$0200a8c0@Three> Usually all the holes in the manifolds are threaded to allow insertion of various fittings, filled with blanking bolts otherwise. What was connected to this fitting? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have removed the air pump and gulp valve from my MG's 18V (1972) engine. There is a large, 90 degree fitting in the intake manifold that needs to be blocked. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Jul 22 09:53:32 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 08:53:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold Message-ID: <488951.31118.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ed, is this what you're talking about? The hose to the left of the EGR valve - it has a plug in it. Don't think I have a picture of it on file but I can take one if you need it. http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view¤t=P9050005.jpg Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Ed Woods To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 10:38:13 AM Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold List, I have removed the air pump and gulp valve from my MG's 18V (1972) engine. There is a large, 90 degree fitting in the intake manifold that needs to be blocked. I don't want to simply cut it off and fill the hole. I'd like to be able to put all the emission stuff back on the engine with as little hassle as possible if the day ever comes to do so. So what do I use to block this opening? Any thoughts? Thanks, Ed Woods You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 22 11:19:22 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 10:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Reinstall Order? In-Reply-To: <85097.5985.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2298@kb1.mossmotors.com> Dan: There has to be a beer break in there somewhere. K. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Dan DiBiase > Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 5:31 PM > To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List > Subject: [Mgs] Reinstall Order? > > I'm not sure whether it makes a difference, but I spent some > time tonight just trying to plan out the order in which I am > going to hook up everything after reinstalling the engine. > I'm thinking - > > 1) Trans connections - slave cylinder, reverse switch, speedo > drive, starter > 2) Crossmember & restraint rod > 3) Driveshaft > 4) Tighten front engine mounts (including removing/replacing > steering rack) > 5) Shift lever > 6) Intake manifold, carb, exhaust system, air cleaner, fan, alternator > 7) Remaining underhood connections - hoses, etc. > 8) Radiator shroud, radiator > 9) Fluid refills - brake, coolant, gearbox top-off, oil > top-off, steering rack > 10) Bleed brakes > 11) Charge battery > > This sound about right, for the major items? > > Dan D From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 22 11:25:24 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 10:25:24 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold In-Reply-To: <02a601c8ec0e$af332100$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E22A2@kb1.mossmotors.com> Ed: John Twist recomends tapping the gulp valve hole and threading in a bolt, this does make it difficult to reinstall the fitting if you need to. I've had good luck just twisting the gulp valve 90 degree fitting out, then taking a bolt (sorry, can't remember the size) that has the correct body diameter, cut the threaded portion off then slipping the bolt into the hole with a touch of sealant. The seal just has to be vacuum tight, with the plug well enough adhered so it doesn't bounce out. Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Paul Hunt > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 8:11 AM > To: Ed Woods; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Intake Manifold > > Usually all the holes in the manifolds are threaded to allow > insertion of various fittings, filled with blanking bolts > otherwise. What was connected to this fitting? > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > I have removed the air pump and gulp valve from my MG's 18V > (1972) engine. > There is a large, 90 degree fitting in the intake manifold > that needs to be > blocked. > _______________________________________________ From jbaustian at cox.net Tue Jul 22 12:18:29 2008 From: jbaustian at cox.net (Jim Baustian) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 13:18:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold Message-ID: <8A6AAAE7-E362-4527-A854-76BB1A4AA362@cox.net> Wasn't the hole in the manifold originally part of the system that relieved crankcase pressure? When this system is removed how is this pressure relieved? From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 22 12:43:19 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 11:43:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold In-Reply-To: <8A6AAAE7-E362-4527-A854-76BB1A4AA362@cox.net> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E22FA@kb1.mossmotors.com> Jim: This is the gulp valve manifold port. The crank case ventilation isn't affected. On the later cars the crankcase suction line is connected directly to a carburetor port. K. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Jim Baustian > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 11:18 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold > > Wasn't the hole in the manifold originally part of the > system that relieved crankcase pressure? When this system is > removed how is this pressure relieved? From macgroup at comcast.net Tue Jul 22 13:45:59 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 12:45:59 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <014901c8ebd4$4ba24920$0200a8c0@Three> References: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> <014901c8ebd4$4ba24920$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <444793EDA64E4F6FA3BC44376146A8F8@StusLaptopPC> At least you don't have an OD tranny, but it would probably work sort of okay there too. 90w gear oil makes is harder to shift because the synchro rings have a thicker, slipperier layer of oil between them and the cone on the dog gear. I think the ears on the rings will wear faster the harder you have to shift At the risk of igniting flames, I've used Red Line MTL for over 13 years in my '65 with OD, and for 5 years in my daughter's '71 GT, also with OD. Great stuff. Shifting is quicker, OD works great, and you never have to change it. Stuart -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 1:03 AM To: MG List; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? This is a fallacy. Factory V8s have 90 gear oil as standard, mine was a daily driver parked outside for many years including periods of below freezing and I never had a problem, but I can't speak for the condition of anyone else's gearbox. As long as it *is* gear oil, and not *differential* oil it should be OK, don't junk it now just wait and see how you get on. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... With the engine cold, even in the summer, the 90W will be too thick for the snycros to work properly... Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From WSpohn4 at aol.com Tue Jul 22 13:54:11 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 15:54:11 EDT Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? Message-ID: Like anyone ever changes their tranny fluid as a regular item of maintenance anyway? Probably in the top ten on the list of 'things I know I should really do but never get around to', right beside 'drain and replace all brake fluid' and 'replace diff oil'. Bill In a message dated 7/22/2008 12:46:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, macgroup at comcast.net writes: At the risk of igniting flames, I've used Red Line MTL for over 13 years in my '65 with OD, and for 5 years in my daughter's '71 GT, also with OD. Great stuff. Shifting is quicker, OD works great, and you never have to change it. From macgroup at comcast.net Tue Jul 22 13:55:20 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 12:55:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank woes-update Message-ID: <6012939F5A7548D5AAEF515F9A3DDE81@StusLaptopPC> Failure to follow "logical troubleshooting procedures." I took the tank out and had a radiator shop check it out, and there was nothing wrong with it, not even any rust, except for a little on the top, which I cleaned up and painted. Nice that they didn't rebuild it anyway and charge me $350. While the tank was out, I found one problem, and that was a poor ground connection. The grounds for the tail lights and fuel pump connect to the license plate bracket, and that was corroded. I found it because the battery dropped enough in a couple of weeks that the pump wouldn't run, and a couple of voltage checks showed a 5 volt drop at the pump! I also found a loose fuel line on the filter (suction side) that could have been causing my problem. Between the two, maybe that's it. I've driven it for about 3 hours since reinstallation, and I've only had the cavitating happen a couple of times, and only for a short period. The solid state pump can handle that. I hope I've fixed ALL my problems now, I can't think of anything else, and the car runs great! Stuart '65 MGB From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Jul 22 15:01:09 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 14:01:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <444793EDA64E4F6FA3BC44376146A8F8@StusLaptopPC> References: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> <014901c8ebd4$4ba24920$0200a8c0@Three> <444793EDA64E4F6FA3BC44376146A8F8@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <40b437200807221401r2419d64ejd8ab5b9a0dd69f65@mail.gmail.com> Stuart, You should consider changing that oil for MT90. If you look at Redline Oil's website, you will see that MTL is equivalent to 5W30/10W30 engine oil, which is slightly thinner than the recommended 20W50. MTL is slightly thicker, although still not quite 20W50. I use MT90 in my MGA, although I originally used MTL. I can't say that I noticed a difference when I changed to MT90 Regards, Simon On Tue, Jul 22, 2008 at 12:45 PM, Stuart MacMillan wrote: > At least you don't have an OD tranny, but it would probably work sort of > okay there too. 90w gear oil makes is harder to shift because the synchro > rings have a thicker, slipperier layer of oil between them and the cone on > the dog gear. I think the ears on the rings will wear faster the harder you > have to shift > > At the risk of igniting flames, I've used Red Line MTL for over 13 years in > my '65 with OD, and for 5 years in my daughter's '71 GT, also with OD. > Great stuff. Shifting is quicker, OD works great, and you never have to > change it. > > Stuart > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul > Hunt > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 1:03 AM > To: MG List; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > > This is a fallacy. Factory V8s have 90 gear oil as standard, mine was a > daily > driver parked outside for many years including periods of below freezing and > I > never had a problem, but I can't speak for the condition of anyone else's > gearbox. As long as it *is* gear oil, and not *differential* oil it should > be > OK, don't junk it now just wait and see how you get on. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > > > ... With the engine cold, even in the > summer, the 90W will be too thick for the snycros to work properly... > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as simon.d.matthews at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Jul 22 15:02:01 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 23:02:01 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? References: Message-ID: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> Although not an MG, my previous Audi A6 automatic transmission aparantly needed fresh transmission fluid. Weird behaviour of the lock-up mechanism became worse after some 200,000 miles. Although Audi does not recommend fluid replacement, my garage did so, cleaned the gearbox by flushing with cleaning fluid and replaced the filter. Afterwards, the problem hardly did not occur anymore. So some replacement would not be a bad thing and the cost is minimal compared with a well pampered geartrain. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT - 18GK alive again! Total overhaul. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 9:54 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > Like anyone ever changes their tranny fluid as a regular item of > maintenance > anyway? > > Probably in the top ten on the list of 'things I know I should really do > but > never get around to', right beside 'drain and replace all brake fluid' > and > 'replace diff oil'. > > Bill From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 22 15:16:56 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 14:16:56 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: An automatic transmission is a different animal. The fluid is both a lubricant and a hydraulic fluid (similar to the OD, now that I think of it). I am astonished that Audi does not recommend replacement "ever." I would expect something like a 30K to 50K mile interval. I suppose they don't use a replaceable filter, either. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/22/08 2:02 PM, Hans Duinhoven at h.duinhoven at planet.nl wrote: > Although not an MG, my previous Audi A6 automatic transmission aparantly > needed fresh transmission fluid. > Weird behaviour of the lock-up mechanism became worse after some 200,000 > miles. > Although Audi does not recommend fluid replacement, my garage did so, > cleaned the gearbox by flushing with cleaning fluid and replaced the filter. > Afterwards, the problem hardly did not occur anymore. > > So some replacement would not be a bad thing and the cost is minimal > compared with a well pampered geartrain. > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT - 18GK alive again! Total overhaul. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 9:54 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > > >> Like anyone ever changes their tranny fluid as a regular item of >> maintenance >> anyway? >> >> Probably in the top ten on the list of 'things I know I should really do >> but >> never get around to', right beside 'drain and replace all brake fluid' >> and >> 'replace diff oil'. >> >> Bill From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Jul 22 15:48:24 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 14:48:24 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: References: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: A On 7/22/08, Max Heim wrote: > > An automatic transmission is a different animal. The fluid is both a > lubricant and a hydraulic fluid (similar to the OD, now that I think of > it). > I am astonished that Audi does not recommend replacement "ever." I would > expect something like a 30K to 50K mile interval. I suppose they don't use > a > replaceable filter, either. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > on 7/22/08 2:02 PM, Hans Duinhoven at h.duinhoven at planet.nl wrote: > > > Although not an MG, my previous Audi A6 automatic transmission aparantly > > needed fresh transmission fluid. > > Weird behaviour of the lock-up mechanism became worse after some 200,000 > > miles. > > Although Audi does not recommend fluid replacement, my garage did so, > > cleaned the gearbox by flushing with cleaning fluid and replaced the > filter. > > Afterwards, the problem hardly did not occur anymore. > > > > So some replacement would not be a bad thing and the cost is minimal > > compared with a well pampered geartrain. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Hans > > > > 71 BGT - 18GK alive again! Total overhaul. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 9:54 PM > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > > > > > >> Like anyone ever changes their tranny fluid as a regular item of > >> maintenance > >> anyway? > >> > >> Probably in the top ten on the list of 'things I know I should really do > >> but > >> never get around to', right beside 'drain and replace all > brake fluid' > >> and > >> 'replace diff oil'. > >> > >> Bill > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Jul 22 15:54:17 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 14:54:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: References: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: damn keyboard! A number of car makers have auto boxes that require no oil change when used in normal operation. Some of these car makers list an interval for severe service of maybe 50,000 miles. They also use a synthetic ATF which is way different than Dexron or type F. In fact putting Dexron into one of these boxes will ruin it. $0.02 Rick On 7/22/08, Richard Ewald wrote: > > A > > On 7/22/08, Max Heim wrote: >> >> An automatic transmission is a different animal. The fluid is both a >> lubricant and a hydraulic fluid (similar to the OD, now that I think of >> it). >> I am astonished that Audi does not recommend replacement "ever." I would >> expect something like a 30K to 50K mile interval. I suppose they don't use >> a >> replaceable filter, either. >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> >> on 7/22/08 2:02 PM, Hans Duinhoven at h.duinhoven at planet.nl wrote: >> >> > Although not an MG, my previous Audi A6 automatic transmission aparantly >> > needed fresh transmission fluid. >> > Weird behaviour of the lock-up mechanism became worse after some 200,000 >> > miles. >> > Although Audi does not recommend fluid replacement, my garage did so, >> > cleaned the gearbox by flushing with cleaning fluid and replaced the >> filter. >> > Afterwards, the problem hardly did not occur anymore. >> > >> > So some replacement would not be a bad thing and the cost is minimal >> > compared with a well pampered geartrain. >> > >> > Cheers, >> > >> > Hans >> > >> > 71 BGT - 18GK alive again! Total overhaul. >> > >> > ----- Original Message ----- >> > From: >> > To: >> > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 9:54 PM >> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? >> > >> > >> >> Like anyone ever changes their tranny fluid as a regular item of >> >> maintenance >> >> anyway? >> >> >> >> Probably in the top ten on the list of 'things I know I should really >> do >> >> but >> >> never get around to', right beside 'drain and replace all >> brake fluid' >> >> and >> >> 'replace diff oil'. >> >> >> >> Bill >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> >> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com >> >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Tue Jul 22 16:39:03 2008 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 18:39:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: References: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: <007b01c8ec4b$be567aa0$3b036fe0$@com> True, but I'd advise looking up their definition of "normal" and "severe service". I think you will find that it's pretty hard to be classified as "normal". -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 5:54 PM To: Max Heim Cc: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? damn keyboard! A number of car makers have auto boxes that require no oil change when used in normal operation. Some of these car makers list an interval for severe service of maybe 50,000 miles. From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jul 22 17:01:30 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 16:01:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Fan Mounting In-Reply-To: <002801c8ec01$8a6a3dc0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E23B5@kb1.mossmotors.com> Ed: Thanks for the verification. I'm getting the catalogs updated for this part. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: Ed Woods [mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net] > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 6:48 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Cc: Dodd, Kelvin > Subject: Fan Mounting > > All, > > A quick note to thank Kelvin and Moss Motors for providing > the correct spacer, part no. 771-715, for the 6 bladed metal > fan on my MG's 18V engine: > > Thanks Kelvin! Perfect fit. > > Ed Woods From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Jul 22 18:55:24 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 17:55:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) Message-ID: <265523.74720.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ok, next questions... ;-) When I was attaching the clutch slave cylinder, a couple of things happened - 1) The little plunger from the slave cylinder came out. Is it really not attached to anything in there, just held in by the rubber boot and the stirrup on the transmission? 2) The stirrup on the transmission (not sure of it's official name) has about an inch of motion. I had to really push in on the plunger to get it to line up within the stirrup once the slave was attached to the transmission. Working the clutch pedal causes the whole shebang to move properly, and the clutch pedal feels pretty normal (given that it's been 2 years since I drove the car). My reverse switch wire seemed to have disappeared from under the car! Then I noticed a very long wire hanging around in the engine compartment here is a picture. It is long enough to be the wire for that. But ther isn't any difference in the spade connectors, so any idea which one goes where? Maybe it doesn't matter....? http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7220006.jpg Thx. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From shaws at mlcltd.com Tue Jul 22 22:40:47 2008 From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 23:40:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <40b437200807221401r2419d64ejd8ab5b9a0dd69f65@mail.gmail.com> References: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> <014901c8ebd4$4ba24920$0200a8c0@Three> <444793EDA64E4F6FA3BC44376146A8F8@StusLaptopPC> <40b437200807221401r2419d64ejd8ab5b9a0dd69f65@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <2B7A1C1E-D024-43FC-9DB3-819C4E455411@mlcltd.com> Not so sure about that. Many older manuals called for 30 Wt oil. Last I knew, so did John Esposito (appologies if I did not spell that right) of Quantum Mechanics. There seems to be some variance on that among experts. Bob Shaw shaws at mlcltd.com My MGA is not leaking, It is merely marking its territory On Jul 22, 2008, at 4:01 PM, Simon Matthews wrote: > Stuart, > > You should consider changing that oil for MT90. If you look at Redline > Oil's website, you will see that MTL is equivalent to 5W30/10W30 > engine oil, which is slightly thinner than the recommended 20W50. MTL > is slightly thicker, although still not quite 20W50. > > I use MT90 in my MGA, although I originally used MTL. I can't say that > I noticed a difference when I changed to MT90 > > Regards, > Simon > > > On Tue, Jul 22, 2008 at 12:45 PM, Stuart MacMillan > wrote: >> At least you don't have an OD tranny, but it would probably work >> sort of >> okay there too. 90w gear oil makes is harder to shift because the >> synchro >> rings have a thicker, slipperier layer of oil between them and the >> cone on >> the dog gear. I think the ears on the rings will wear faster the >> harder you >> have to shift >> >> At the risk of igniting flames, I've used Red Line MTL for over 13 >> years in >> my '65 with OD, and for 5 years in my daughter's '71 GT, also with >> OD. >> Great stuff. Shifting is quicker, OD works great, and you never >> have to >> change it. >> >> Stuart >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net >> [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf >> Of Paul >> Hunt >> Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 1:03 AM >> To: MG List; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? >> >> This is a fallacy. Factory V8s have 90 gear oil as standard, mine >> was a >> daily >> driver parked outside for many years including periods of below >> freezing and >> I >> never had a problem, but I can't speak for the condition of anyone >> else's >> gearbox. As long as it *is* gear oil, and not *differential* oil >> it should >> be >> OK, don't junk it now just wait and see how you get on. >> >> PaulH. >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> >> ... With the engine cold, even in the >> summer, the 90W will be too thick for the snycros to work >> properly... >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> >> You are subscribed as simon.d.matthews at gmail.com >> >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as shaws at mlcltd.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Jul 22 23:48:35 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 22:48:35 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <007b01c8ec4b$be567aa0$3b036fe0$@com> References: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> <007b01c8ec4b$be567aa0$3b036fe0$@com> Message-ID: On Tue, Jul 22, 2008 at 3:39 PM, Stephen West-fisher < steve at coastaldatasystems.com> wrote: > True, but I'd advise looking up their definition of "normal" and "severe > service". I think you will find that it's pretty hard to be classified as > "normal". Well for Volvo severe is defined as trailer towing in the mountains, taxi and Police service. Under those conditions they suggest an oil change every 75,000 Km, roughly at the 52,500 mile service. This information is straight from the owner's manual. So not too hard to be classified as normal. Rick From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Wed Jul 23 00:21:30 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:21:30 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) References: <265523.74720.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Dan, Yes the plunger is held by the rubber boot only, when it is lose from the clutch mechnism. It is held in place by the cup shape of the actual slave piston - a go and simple construction. If the slave psiton does not travel freely, it can be taken apart after draining the hydraulic fluid. The cylinder is so wide in bore, it may be cleaned and polished afterwards, in order to be smooth again. It is advisable to replace the rubber piston. Apply little brake grease before assembling again and fit the stuff together. Flush the fluid lines and master cylinder and fill the system with new brake fluid. Normally the plunger is held in its travel space by the connected clutch mechanism. Lose wires: There maybe some other open ended wires there, which belong to the overdrive circuit. When no overdrive is fitted, there maybe lose ends. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan DiBiase" To: ; "MG List" Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 2:55 AM Subject: [Mgs] (no subject) > Ok, next questions... ;-) > > When I was attaching the clutch slave cylinder, a couple of things > happened - > > 1) The little plunger from the slave cylinder came out. Is it really not > attached to anything in there, just held > in by the rubber boot and the stirrup on the transmission? > > 2) The stirrup on the transmission (not sure of it's official name) has > about an inch of motion. I had to really push in on > the plunger to get it to line up within the stirrup once the slave was > attached to the transmission. Working the clutch > pedal causes the whole shebang to move properly, and the clutch pedal > feels pretty normal (given that it's been 2 > years since I drove the car). > > My reverse switch wire seemed to have disappeared from under the car! Then > I noticed a very long wire hanging around > in the engine compartment here is a picture. It is long enough to be the > wire for that. But ther isn't any difference in the > spade connectors, so any idea which one goes where? Maybe it doesn't > matter....? > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P7220006.jpg > > Thx. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 23 02:28:49 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 09:28:49 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold References: <8A6AAAE7-E362-4527-A854-76BB1A4AA362@cox.net> Message-ID: <00f101c8eca2$27789490$0200a8c0@Three> Nothing to do with relieving pressure. From 64 to 68 MGBs used a PCV valve on the inlet manifold to apply a constant low level of vacuum to the crankcase for through-flow ventilation. Whilst this would help to relieve any excess pressure from blow-by etc. that wasn't its purpose and it would only have a limited capacity to do so. Any positive pressure build-up would escape from the *inlet* side of the ventilation system which was the vented oil filler cap. Before 64 pressure could escape from two ports on the engine that were open to atmosphere - the pipe from the rocker cover to the front air cleaner and the pipe on the front cover or front tappet chest cover. From 1969 carb vacuum was used for the ventilation to replace the (comparatively) troublesome PCV valve. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Wasn't the hole in the manifold originally part of the system that relieved crankcase pressure? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 23 02:33:25 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 09:33:25 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? References: Message-ID: <00f201c8eca2$279c4930$0200a8c0@Three> BT,DT. After 19 years and 50k with the roadster and 13 years and 75k with the V8 I happened to meet the original designer of the MGB gearbox, prop-shaft and rear axle who nagged me into changing the gearbox and axle oils which I did earlier this year. I can leave them another 20 years now, and by then I'll probably be too stiff to get under the car anymore. Maybe I ought to change the brake fluid as well ... PaulH ----- Original Message ----- Like anyone ever changes their tranny fluid as a regular item of maintenance anyway? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 23 02:38:42 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 09:38:42 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? References: Message-ID: <00f301c8eca2$27bb42e0$0200a8c0@Three> FWIW MG say (said?) the oil in the PG1 gearbox on the modern saloons doesn't need to be periodically replaced, but it does on the R65. The gearboxes are interchangeable and either could be fitted. Mine is an R65 (typical!). An as you say, OD *is* an automatic gearbox. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I am astonished that Audi does not recommend replacement "ever." From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 23 02:50:22 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 09:50:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] (unknown) References: <265523.74720.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00f401c8eca2$27dcad90$0200a8c0@Three> The push-rod is just a push-fit into the boot. The clutch slave contains a spring that pushes out the piston, and this does have to be compressed (which takes steady firm pressure if the system is full of fluid, and watch for overflows from the master) to push it back in order to get the push-rod attached to the release arm with the clevis pin. This spring takes up all the mechanical wear that occurs at the clutch end of the system to give a consistent biting point. Also if any crankshaft end-float should occur this will tend to bump the piston further into the slave bore, and without the spring pushing it back out again you will get a low release/biting point until you have pumped the pedal at least once. That cable is nothing to do with the gearbox, you need to tell us the colours of the wires to stand a chance of determining what they are for. The gearbox has its own separate mini-harness with three wires for the reverse light (green and green/brown) switch and OD (yellow/red), maybe only two if no OD. This comes up from under the tunnel, attaching to a bell-housing bracket, and joins to the main and rear harnesses as required, by the fusebox. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- 1) The little plunger from the slave cylinder came out. My reverse switch wire seemed to have disappeared from under the car! . __,_._,___ From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Jul 23 02:57:56 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 03:57:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Auction In-Reply-To: <00da01c8e908$b06924b0$6501a8c0@shop> References: <3517.1216399165@cableone.net> <00da01c8e908$b06924b0$6501a8c0@shop> Message-ID: <4886F294.5050702@ktc.com> Actually, it's closer to Sisterdale, TX. They live on Upper Sisterdale Rd. CR Ed's Shop wrote: > <> > > Comfort, TX Phil. > _______________________________________________ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Jul 23 06:03:00 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 05:03:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] (unknown) Message-ID: <562767.36286.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ok, great, I DID have to put some serious pressure to move the plunger back in to fit, so hopefully it's okay. And that wire is the reverse switch, I got the brilliant idea to look at some of my old pics pre-disassembly! Still not sure which connector goes on which terminal but I can always switch them later. Tonight I am going to install the reverse wire, get the trans crossmember and restraint rod installed, hook up the starter wiring and reattach the driveshaft. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 4:50:22 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] (unknown) The push-rod is just a push-fit into the boot. The clutch slave contains a spring that pushes out the piston, and this does have to be compressed (which takes steady firm pressure if the system is full of fluid, and watch for overflows from the master) to push it back in order to get the push-rod attached to the release arm with the clevis pin. This spring takes up all the mechanical wear that occurs at the clutch end of the system to give a consistent biting point. Also if any crankshaft end-float should occur this will tend to bump the piston further into the slave bore, and without the spring pushing it back out again you will get a low release/biting point until you have pumped the pedal at least once. That cable is nothing to do with the gearbox, you need to tell us the colours of the wires to stand a chance of determining what they are for. The gearbox has its own separate mini-harness with three wires for the reverse light (green and green/brown) switch and OD (yellow/red), maybe only two if no OD. This comes up from under the tunnel, attaching to a bell-housing bracket, and joins to the main and rear harnesses as required, by the fusebox. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- 1) The little plunger from the slave cylinder came out. My reverse switch wire seemed to have disappeared from under the car! . __,_._,___ You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jul 23 06:55:10 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:55:10 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] (unknown) References: <562767.36286.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003401c8ecc3$72f84430$0200a8c0@Three> The wires can connect to the reverse light switch either way round, but they are spades not bullets. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... And that wire is the reverse switch, I got the brilliant idea to look at some of my old pics pre-disassembly! Still not sure which connector goes on which terminal but I can always switch them later. . __,_._,___ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Jul 23 07:52:14 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 06:52:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] (unknown) Message-ID: <989320.17836.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ok, good, as it's difficult to get to when the transmission is buttoned up into place. Not bad with it resting on the rear-most crossmember, as it is now. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 8:55:10 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] (unknown) The wires can connect to the reverse light switch either way round, but they are spades not bullets. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... And that wire is the reverse switch, I got the brilliant idea to look at some of my old pics pre-disassembly! Still not sure which connector goes on which terminal but I can always switch them later. . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! 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Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Jul 23 09:39:51 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:39:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] 2008 VENTURA BRITISH CAR SHOW - July 27th - Oxnard, CA Message-ID: <22529823.1216827591295.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net> The Central Coast British Car Club Presents: THE EIGHTEENTH ANNUAL VENTURA COUNTY BRITISH CAR SHOW Channel Islands Harbour * July 27th, 2008 Join us for a great afternoon at our wonderful waterfront location at the Channel Islands Harbour. This year we are honoring the Austin Healey marque, featuring the 50th anniversary of the Bugeye Sprite. There will be food, entertainment, vendors, and a swap meet and some of the finest British Cars in Southern California. Oxnard is but a short and lovely drive up the coast from Los Angeles b Come to Oxnard, enjoy the show, enjoy the ride, be back by supper b SEE YOU THERE!!! Website: www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com INFORMATION: Gary Rice (805) 644-3290 Bill Guzman (805) 484-1528 From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Jul 23 09:39:27 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:39:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] 2008 VENTURA BRITISH CAR SHOW - July 27th - Oxnard, CA Message-ID: <3627929.1216827567302.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net> The Central Coast British Car Club Presents: THE EIGHTEENTH ANNUAL VENTURA COUNTY BRITISH CAR SHOW Channel Islands Harbour * July 27th, 2008 Join us for a great afternoon at our wonderful waterfront location at the Channel Islands Harbour. This year we are honoring the Austin Healey marque, featuring the 50th anniversary of the Bugeye Sprite. There will be food, entertainment, vendors, and a swap meet and some of the finest British Cars in Southern California. Oxnard is but a short and lovely drive up the coast from Los Angeles b Come to Oxnard, enjoy the show, enjoy the ride, be back by supper b SEE YOU THERE!!! Website: www.centralcoastbritishcarclub.com INFORMATION: Gary Rice (805) 644-3290 Bill Guzman (805) 484-1528 From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Wed Jul 23 17:35:23 2008 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 19:35:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: References: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> <007b01c8ec4b$be567aa0$3b036fe0$@com> Message-ID: <009001c8ed1c$c7863df0$5692b9d0$@com> Looks like you are correct with the modern Volvos. Most of the definitions I have seen include stop and go traffic as well, but Volvo doesn't. And depending upon model/year, there is no mention of "normal" or "severe" service and only one set of maintenance intervals. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:49 AM Well for Volvo severe is defined as trailer towing in the mountains, taxi and Police service. Under those conditions they suggest an oil change every 75,000 Km, roughly at the 52,500 mile service. This information is straight from the owner's manual. So not too hard to be classified as normal. Rick From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Jul 25 10:09:26 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 09:09:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes Message-ID: <344139.49500.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> As the article suggests, a controversial figure. Perhaps some of our English friends could comment on this, since they were certainly closer to the whole situation.... http://www.thisisdorset.net/display.var.2409080.0.tributes_as_exbl_boss_dies_aged_94.php Tributes as ex-BL boss dies aged 94 By Daily Echo reporter Comment controversial figure: Lord Stokes THE former chairman of British Leyland, Lord Stokes, who died earlier this week at his home in Poole at the age of 94, will always be a controversial figure in the history of the nation's car industry. While some blame him for the decline of British motor manufacturing, others see him as a talented businessman whose efforts to run the fifth largest car manufacturer in the world profitably were wrecked by trade unions and the government. Donald Stokes was regarded as an eccentric at public school because he wanted to study engineering and work in a factory. He served his apprenticeship with bus and truck manufacturers Leyland during the 1930s and became export manager after serving in the Army during World War Two. He was made a director in 1954, then chairman in 1967. Great names such as Triumph, Rover, Austin, Morris, Daimler, Jaguar, MG and Land Rover were brought under the company's umbrella through a series of takeovers and mergers. advertisement But with BMC - which made Minis and MGs among others - the company inherited financial and management problems. There were also constant strikes and some clunky designs, such as the Morris Marina and the Austin Allegro. In a 1989 interview with the Daily Echo, Lord Stokes recalled: "Whatever move my management made to try and improve a product or facility, the unions called a strike. "We should have been fighting with the unions, not against them. We should have been united against the Japanese. "We also had endless interference from the government. "For example, we were instructed to build factories in places that were obviously uneconomic." He and his first wife Laura, who had one son, bought their clifftop Branksome Park flat as a weekend home in the 1970s and moved there permanently after he left British Leyland, which was nationalised under the then Industry Minister Tony Benn. Lord Stokes became a well known figure in the town, presenting the Poole edition of the BBC programme "All Change For" back in 1979. He became founding chairman of 2CR and branch president of the Ferndown Muscular Dystrophy Group in 1980. A keen sailor, he also actively supported the Sea Cadets. Knighted in 1965, he became a life peer four years later and was a cross-bencher in the House of Lords. Following Laura's death in 1995, he married the current Lady Stokes, Patricia, in 2000. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 25 17:06:51 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 18:06:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA front hub bearing removal Message-ID: How do I remove the bearings from the front hubs on an MGA? I assume each bearing pulls out the sleeve in the center prevents using some kind of puller. The only method I can think of is to get a punch on the inner edge and try to tap it out. Any better suggestions? From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk Fri Jul 25 17:19:58 2008 From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown) Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:19:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA front hub bearing removal References: Message-ID: <00e101c8eeac$f4fc7330$6401a8c0@RicksPC> Mike I believe this will help you with removing the bearings: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/universal/ut108.htm Always go to Barney Gaylord's site when you have an MGA question - the answer is usually there. mgaguru.com Rick Webmaster for: ___________________________________________________________ http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr - The North American MGB Register http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil - North American Council of MG Registers http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature Coast English Car Club ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Duvall" To: ; "mgs mgs" Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 19:06 Subject: [Mgs] MGA front hub bearing removal > How do I remove the bearings from the front hubs on an MGA? I assume > each bearing pulls out the sleeve in the center prevents using some > kind of puller. The only method I can think of is to get a punch on > the inner edge and try to tap it out. > > Any better suggestions? From ejrussell at mebtel.net Fri Jul 25 17:52:03 2008 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:52:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [British-cars] MGA front hub bearing removal References: Message-ID: <10E195417C05407EB0211A777383B115@ejrussell> For questions about the MGA (and often other MG's, too) consult Barney Gaylord's web site. www.mgaguru.com Specifically re: MGA front hub bearings: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/universal/ut108.htm Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Duvall" > How do I remove the bearings from the front hubs on an MGA? From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Jul 25 20:23:32 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:23:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] More Q's Message-ID: <981834.76098.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Couple more questions as I continue to work towards a running car - 1) Re: the starter wiring - there is one heavy-duty cable with a 'ring' connector and 3 others with rings. I assume they are all mounted on the single post on the smaller cylinder (I assume that is the solenoid). 2) The engine restraint rod - where does thre front bracket? Does it mount on 2 of the bolts that hold the engine and transmission together? 3) My engine has the 7-blade yellow plastic fan (engine-mounted). Anyone have any idea of what size bolts hold it on? When I exchanged my old engine for this one, I left my fan bolted to the old one. Moss doesn't seem to carry them, only for the older metal fans. Are there washers as well? You can check out the '76 B blog linked below. Thx, Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From Aeseeyou at aol.com Sat Jul 26 16:11:58 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 18:11:58 EDT Subject: [Mgs] 18th Annual CCBCC British Car Show 7-27-2008 Message-ID: Hello, Tomorrow July 27, 2008 I will wake up get dressed and and take part in the 18th Annual British Car Show.edsxzzszaw It will be held in a lovely park like setting of the Channel Islands Yacht Harbor on the Pacific Ocean in Oxnard, CA. we are only 45 minutes or so north of Los Angeles, CA. And 30 minutes south of Santa Barbara, CA The featured Marque is Austin-Healey with special consideration of the Austin-Healey Sprite Mk.I "Bugeye" which is celebrating it's 50th Anniversary as they were first introduced in 1958. Plus there will be Food Booths, Memorabilia and Regalia sales a Swap Meet, plus Scottish Bagpipers and Dancers. ~~ Awards galore and an All Day Raffle! Spectators get in for free. There may be some spots available at the door if you want to enter your British Beauty..It's a $35 entry fee Open all day open from; 8:00 am until 4:00 pm----MapQuest: 3600 Harbor Blvd Oxnard, CA to get driving directions and a map to the 18th Annual British Car Show Hope to see you there! Albert Escalante **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today. (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020) From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sun Jul 27 03:29:10 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 04:29:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes (Dan DiBiase) Message-ID: <48720d20807270229l5abf8c6djae87130a050256c5@mail.gmail.com> If you want an insight on how British arrogance killed their auto industry try Whisler, * The End of the Road:The Rise and Fall of Ausin-Healy,MG and Triumph Sports Cars* (University of Illinois Press). It uses those cars as examples of why the Brits wasted the opportunities they had. Austin Motors taught the Japanese auto industry to make cars. That is why some older Japanese cars had versions of SU carburetors. One problem was that Austin and Morris were self made men and suspicious of anyone else's judgment. Folks who showed up with a mechanical engineering degree were quickly shown the door. That meant that invoation was no accepted. The author says that the home grown designers could modify, but not create. That is why the 74 1/2 Mg wasn't re designed, but had those bumpers raised and pasted on without concern about the effect on handling. In one incident, Austin was told that a particular model was not ready to be sent to the showrooms. He said to send them anyway and let the customers find the problems. Any wonder why sales plummeted? The article on Lord Stokes mentions strikes. The book makes it clear that when the Shop Stewards ran the factory things went smoothly. When know-it-all managers insisted on taking over the function, they caused most of the problems because, not being trained, they didn't understand the labor requirements and looked down on the lowly worker. As an academic study it sometimes is hard reading, but still a fascinating glimpse into why there are no British mass produced cars today. Would you buy a car from a manufacturer named Tata? Jack From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sun Jul 27 03:30:30 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 04:30:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] OOPS Message-ID: <48720d20807270230h4b051d1bp16735d3f9a1e2626@mail.gmail.com> Sorry about the colorful post, but my Google spell checker seems to be having problems. Jack From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sun Jul 27 10:46:45 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 09:46:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes (Dan DiBiase) In-Reply-To: <48720d20807270229l5abf8c6djae87130a050256c5@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <954502.35517.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Sun, 7/27/08, Jack Feldman wrote: > The book makes it clear that > when the Shop Stewards ran the factory things went > smoothly. When > know-it-all managers insisted on taking over the function, > they caused most > of the problems because, not being trained, they didn't > understand the labor > requirements and looked down on the lowly worker. This class-system attitude was brought home to me in a story from a mentor of mine, a German gentleman who was conscripted into Hitler's army and was eventually captured by the Americans. He spent time in American and British POW camps until well into 1947 (because the British didn't want to give up the free labor). He told me that if they were detailed to some kind of work crew under the Americans, and came up with a better way of doing the task, if they approached the American soldier with their idea he'd say "Sounds good to me, go ahead." Later, in British care, the same same type of suggestions were met with a response of "That's all very well, but you must understand that YOU'RE the prisoner and I'M the guard, and so therefore you'll do it MY way." From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Jul 27 11:00:39 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 13:00:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Front Facebar Rechrome References: <981834.76098.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004501c8f00a$4c4c30e0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Has anyone purchased the currently available MGB front bumper from any of the usual suspects? Should I do so, or should I have the original replated at more than twice the cost of the repro? Thanks, Ed Woods From daniel.hackney at gmail.com Sun Jul 27 13:09:55 2008 From: daniel.hackney at gmail.com (Daniel Hackney) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 14:09:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Intake Manifold In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E22A2@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <02a601c8ec0e$af332100$0200a8c0@Three> <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E22A2@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <21209030807271209p1bc8a52emfa4b09c16bfa5767@mail.gmail.com> I also didn't want to remove the elbow. I ordered a test plug, which is basically a piece of neoprene with a bolt through it so it can be expanded in place. I used McMaster part # 2599K28 (MINI LOW-PRESSURE MECHANICAL TEST PLUG, STAINLESS STEEL, FOR PIPE ID .47" TO .55" ) -Dan 1972 MGB GT From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sun Jul 27 18:20:42 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 19:20:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Facebar Replacment Message-ID: <48720d20807271720k76166555qbaef7e32c343840f@mail.gmail.com> When faced with a similar decision I was told that it was cheaper to buy the new, cheaper bumpers and throw several sets away before meeting the cost of re chroming. The end result was a lot of work trying to make the new bumpers fit on the car. Your call. Jack ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 5 Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 13:00:39 -0400 From: "Ed Woods" Subject: [Mgs] Front Facebar Rechrome To: "MG List" Message-ID: <004501c8f00a$4c4c30e0$6500a8c0 at Edscomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Has anyone purchased the currently available MGB front bumper from any of the usual suspects? Should I do so, or should I have the original replated at more than twice the cost of the repro? Thanks, Ed Woods From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sun Jul 27 22:34:39 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 21:34:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Facebar Replacment References: <48720d20807271720k76166555qbaef7e32c343840f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <1892FB0F5199418799DE03A45095ED27@XPS400> My experience with my MGB and Healey bumpers was that the currently available bumpers are fine for anything other than a concourse restoration. I kept my original bumpers just in case I want them later but the cost of straightening and re chroming them was prohibitive. My Healey just won an award today at the Central Coast British Car Club annual show and I doubt anyone was checking of originality of the chrome bumpers on any of the cars. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" To: Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 5:20 PM Subject: [Mgs] Facebar Replacment > When faced with a similar decision I was told that it was cheaper to buy > the > new, cheaper bumpers and throw several sets away before meeting the cost > of > re chroming. > > The end result was a lot of work trying to make the new bumpers fit on the > car. > > Your call. > > Jack > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 5 > Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 13:00:39 -0400 > From: "Ed Woods" > Subject: [Mgs] Front Facebar Rechrome > To: "MG List" > Message-ID: <004501c8f00a$4c4c30e0$6500a8c0 at Edscomputer> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Has anyone purchased the currently available MGB front bumper from any of > the usual suspects? Should I do so, or should I have the original replated > at more than twice the cost of the repro? > > Thanks, > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ronfineesq at earthlink.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From macgroup at comcast.net Sun Jul 27 23:33:38 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 22:33:38 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes (Dan DiBiase) In-Reply-To: <48720d20807270229l5abf8c6djae87130a050256c5@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d20807270229l5abf8c6djae87130a050256c5@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <9DD6234AB3D04409B8AC87EC1A90D08A@StusLaptopPC> I'd love to read that, but it's only available on Amazon.com in the Kindle version for $215!!!!!! Not in the Seattle library either. I'm glad Amazon thought it was worth converting, but this is ridiculous. http://tinyurl.com/5u4g8b Any ideas on how to borrow a copy? Stuart '65 MGB -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Feldman Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:29 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes (Dan DiBiase) If you want an insight on how British arrogance killed their auto industry try Whisler, * The End of the Road:The Rise and Fall of Ausin-Healy,MG and Triumph Sports Cars* (University of Illinois Press). It uses those cars as examples of why the Brits wasted the opportunities they had. Austin Motors taught the Japanese auto industry to make cars. That is why some older Japanese cars had versions of SU carburetors. One problem was that Austin and Morris were self made men and suspicious of anyone else's judgment. Folks who showed up with a mechanical engineering degree were quickly shown the door. That meant that invoation was no accepted. The author says that the home grown designers could modify, but not create. That is why the 74 1/2 Mg wasn't re designed, but had those bumpers raised and pasted on without concern about the effect on handling. In one incident, Austin was told that a particular model was not ready to be sent to the showrooms. He said to send them anyway and let the customers find the problems. Any wonder why sales plummeted? The article on Lord Stokes mentions strikes. The book makes it clear that when the Shop Stewards ran the factory things went smoothly. When know-it-all managers insisted on taking over the function, they caused most of the problems because, not being trained, they didn't understand the labor requirements and looked down on the lowly worker. As an academic study it sometimes is hard reading, but still a fascinating glimpse into why there are no British mass produced cars today. Would you buy a car from a manufacturer named Tata? Jack Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From rbgosling at googlemail.com Mon Jul 28 01:41:10 2008 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 08:41:10 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] More Q's In-Reply-To: <981834.76098.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <981834.76098.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9f2527520807280041g32ed09b9xe2f97c1dca21db9e@mail.gmail.com> "1) Re: the starter wiring - there is one heavy-duty cable with a 'ring' connector and 3 others with rings. I assume they are all mounted on the single post on the smaller cylinder (I assume that is the solenoid)." Yes. Other two - don't know, and I didn't bring my car to work today (damp day in North-East Scotland) so I can't go out and look! Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 28 02:18:00 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:18:00 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA front hub bearing removal References: Message-ID: <015e01c8f08d$2d80cd50$0200a8c0@Three> That's what you do on the MGB, use a drift through the hub to push them out working round the circumference. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- How do I remove the bearings from the front hubs on an MGA? I assume each bearing pulls out the sleeve in the center prevents using some kind of puller. The only method I can think of is to get a punch on the inner edge and try to tap it out. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 28 02:33:47 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:33:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Facebar Replacment References: <48720d20807271720k76166555qbaef7e32c343840f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <016101c8f08d$2dee5c30$0200a8c0@Three> When I bought mine the supplier allowed me to root through his stock looking for a good pair - he offered, I didn't ask. If yours are *originals* and in good condition i.e. little or no steel corrosion then rechroming will give the best results but be expensive. Replacements will be totally dependant on the quality of the steel and chroming process, unfortunately you can't tell all of that from the finished product. I was lucky, mine fitted pretty well, and after 19 years with some wet runs each year are still good. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- When faced with a similar decision I was told that it was cheaper to buy the new, cheaper bumpers and throw several sets away before meeting the cost of re chroming. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 28 02:07:44 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:07:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes References: <344139.49500.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <015c01c8f08d$2d321110$0200a8c0@Three> It was a take-over of BMC by Leyland vehicles which included Triumph in 1968, and thereafter Triumph (which at the time made saloons as well as sports cars) Austin/Morris and MG were fighting for funding amongst themselves, as MG had been with Austin Morris for decades. He may well have inherited management and production problems (like 70 factories in the new group) but he did nothing to rationalise production, each car division carried on as they were scheming and plotting against the others for resources. There certainly were union problems although they largely arrived in his watch. Management showed no signs of standing up to them, they just gave in to wage demands and passed the cost on to consumers. In 1972 and 73 the price of the MGB went up by no less than 30% *after* allowing for inflation, and by 40% in 77 and 78. The media didn't help, I well remember one program interviewing him when the Morris Minor ceased production wheeling in an elderly lady to confront him with "'Why aren't you making them any more?" because that was all she wanted to drive. He presided over a period when BLs share of the UK market fell from about 45% to 20% when he left (as chairman) in 1979. He wasn't totally to blame, the previous mergers forming BMC didn't rationalise either, and it has been said he was too nice a person to force through the changes that were required. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- As the article suggests, a controversial figure. Perhaps some of our English friends could comment on this, since they were certainly closer to the whole situation.... From montejane at gmail.com Mon Jul 28 06:37:19 2008 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 07:37:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <009001c8ed1c$c7863df0$5692b9d0$@com> References: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> <007b01c8ec4b$be567aa0$3b036fe0$@com> <009001c8ed1c$c7863df0$5692b9d0$@com> Message-ID: l'm probably getting in on the middle of this conversation, but my Bentley's MG manual says that 90 wt in the tranny is fine, although I just changed mine and used 10-30. Monte On 7/23/08, Stephen West-fisher wrote: > > Looks like you are correct with the modern Volvos. Most of the definitions > I > have seen include stop and go traffic as well, but Volvo doesn't. And > depending upon model/year, there is no mention of "normal" or "severe" > service and only one set of maintenance intervals. > > > > -- > > Stephen West-Fisher > > Coastal Data Systems > > 727.599.4271 > > http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ > > > > From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com] > Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:49 AM > > > > Well for Volvo severe is defined as trailer towing in the mountains, taxi > and Police service. Under those conditions they suggest an oil change > every > 75,000 Km, roughly at the 52,500 mile service. This information is > straight > from the owner's manual. So not too hard to be classified as normal. > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From j_cahoon at yahoo.com Mon Jul 28 07:47:21 2008 From: j_cahoon at yahoo.com (John Cahoon) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 06:47:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Re: 90w in Transmission? Message-ID: <39700.12611.qm@web65415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The CHEMISTRY of all of this is such that a 90W oil is usually a differential lubricant. The additives used in a differential oil will react with any non-steel components and cause failures. Any heavy trucker will confirm this if you need extra support. a 20W50 engine oil is the best for a MG transmission. If you can find a 90W "gear only" oil that should work as well BUT avoid anything that claims to be GL rated or hypoid applicable. This is based largely upon my 27 years experience in lubricant formulation and testing. JOHN CAHOON --- mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote: > To: mgs at autox.team.net > From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com > Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 14:35:47 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > > No, 90 weight will not kill your transmission. 90 > weight has a viscosity > similar to 50 weight motor oil. Although on the > heavy side, it will not > kill it. Also, there is nothing wrong with using > gear oil in the > transmission > > Mark > 73 MGBGT > > Message: 8 > Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 06:46:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Dan DiBiase > Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com, MG List > > Message-ID: > <796145.78883.qm at web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Well, before I put the engine and transmission back > in the B yesterday, I > got smart and said, 'Let me fill the transmission > back up > with fluid now, while it's easy to get at!'. Good > idea, but I confused the > 90w oil for the steering rack with engine oil, and > filled the > transmission with the 90w. It's easily-enough > changed but am wondering if > the 90w will kill the (non-OD) transmission or if I > really > need to change it? > > Thx.... > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as j_cahoon at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jul 28 07:58:27 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:58:27 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? Message-ID: <20080728.095827.2996.5.MGBOB@juno.com> Monte, Is it your Bentley's or your Haynes manual that cited 90w? I have a Haynes that says 90w but my green-cover Bentley recommends the motor oils. MG did OK the use of 90w in a TSB, but soon thereafter rescinded that bulletin. Bob On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 07:37:19 -0500 "Monte/Jane Morris" writes: > l'm probably getting in on the middle of this conversation, but my > Bentley's > MG manual says that 90 wt in the tranny is fine, although I just > changed > mine and used 10-30. > Monte > ____________________________________________________________ Click for free info on college degrees. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l8WvBOorGhFjWjNgsBa84UtkxsNXrLx8ixlSRBNHzdjxccF/ From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Jul 28 08:02:09 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 07:02:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes In-Reply-To: <015c01c8f08d$2d321110$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <330125.39900.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Mon, 7/28/08, Paul Hunt wrote: > There certainly were > union problems although they largely arrived in his watch. > Management showed > no signs of standing up to them, they just gave in to wage > demands and passed the cost on to consumers. As good a point as any to insert my favorite Basil Fawlty quote: "Another car strike. Marvellous isn't it? Taxpayers pay them millions each year, they get the money, go on strike. Its called Socialism. I mean if they don't like making cars why don't they get themselves another bloody job, designing cathedrals or composing violin concertos? The British Leyland Concerto in four movements, all of them slow, with a four-hour tea break in between. I'll tell you why, because they're not interested in anything except lounging about on conveyor belts stuffing themselves with my money....." David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Mon Jul 28 08:27:29 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:27:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes (Dan DiBiase) In-Reply-To: <9DD6234AB3D04409B8AC87EC1A90D08A@StusLaptopPC> References: <48720d20807270229l5abf8c6djae87130a050256c5@mail.gmail.com> <9DD6234AB3D04409B8AC87EC1A90D08A@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <48720d20807280727m5b3c6805vbe990c40c69034be@mail.gmail.com> I got it through an inter library loan. Surely Seattle has the same option. Jack On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 12:33 AM, Stuart MacMillan wrote: > I'd love to read that, but it's only available on Amazon.com in the Kindle > version for $215!!!!!! Not in the Seattle library either. I'm glad Amazon > thought it was worth converting, but this is ridiculous. > http://tinyurl.com/5u4g8b > > Any ideas on how to borrow a copy? > > Stuart > '65 MGB > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup =comcast.net@ > autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack > Feldman > Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:29 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] In Memoriam - Lord Stokes (Dan DiBiase) > > If you want an insight on how British arrogance killed their auto industry > try > > Whisler, * The End of the Road:The Rise and Fall of Ausin-Healy,MG and > Triumph Sports Cars* (University of Illinois Press). It uses those cars as > examples of why the Brits wasted the opportunities they had. Austin Motors > taught the Japanese auto industry to make cars. That is why some older > Japanese cars had versions of SU carburetors. > > One problem was that Austin and Morris were self made men and suspicious of > anyone else's judgment. Folks who showed up with a mechanical engineering > degree were quickly shown the door. That meant that invoation was no > accepted. The author says that the home grown designers could modify, but > not create. That is why the 74 1/2 Mg wasn't re designed, but had those > bumpers raised and pasted on without concern about the effect on handling. > > In one incident, Austin was told that a particular model was not ready to > be > sent to the showrooms. He said to send them anyway and let the customers > find the problems. Any wonder why sales plummeted? > > The article on Lord Stokes mentions strikes. The book makes it clear that > when the Shop Stewards ran the factory things went smoothly. When > know-it-all managers insisted on taking over the function, they caused most > of the problems because, not being trained, they didn't understand the > labor > requirements and looked down on the lowly worker. > > As an academic study it sometimes is hard reading, but still a fascinating > glimpse into why there are no British mass produced cars today. Would you > buy a car from a manufacturer named Tata? > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as macgroup at comcast.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 28 09:01:03 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:01:03 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Re: 90w in Transmission? References: <39700.12611.qm@web65415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005601c8f0c5$fee3baa0$0200a8c0@Three> Exactly so, this is why the V8 uses *gear* oil in the gearbox and OD and *differential* oil in the rear axle, even though they are much the same viscosity. However the terms 'hypoy' and 'hypoid' and used in different places in the V8 Workshop Manual Supplement according to manufacturer, Castrol using 'hypoy' for both and Duckhams using 'hypoid' for both, the difference is in suffixes and hence specifications of the oils. Modern Castrol oils, here at least, are much clearer in that the descriptions state 'gear' or 'differential' as appropriate. The Leyland 4-cylinder Workshop Manual specifies engine oil for the gearbox and OD. The extra protection of gear oil isn't required like it is for the much higher torque V8, but it won't do any harm and it doesn't result in a stiff change, I've used my V8 on a daily basis parked outside in below freezing temps and not had a problem. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- The CHEMISTRY of all of this is such that a 90W oil is usually a differential lubricant. The additives used in a differential oil will react with any non-steel components and cause failures. Any heavy trucker will confirm this if you need extra support. a 20W50 engine oil is the best for a MG transmission. If you can find a 90W "gear only" oil that should work as well From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Mon Jul 28 12:40:39 2008 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:40:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question Message-ID: <20080728144039.a5brnb50isokkowc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Anybody have an idea where the fault lay when the oil pressure gauge indicates only the transition pressures? That is, going at a comfortable and constant speed, the oil pressure gauge indicates just above 0, but changing gears the gauge jumps up to a nice position. For you ee types, the gauge reads the AC but not the DC. Is this most likely a gauge effect or a pressure sender effect? It is not an oil quantity effect! The dip stick is happy. TIA, Bill S. BMCSNJ '74B '76B From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jul 28 14:54:48 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:54:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question Message-ID: <20080728.165448.2996.14.MGBOB@juno.com> Bill, This sounds related to the question someone asked Car Talk on Saturday, the guy out west who asked why the electric brakes on his trailer went on whenever he switched on his 4-way flashers. The suggestion was that he had a bad lightbulb in one of the flasher fixtures. It will be interesting if he gets called back for Stump The Chumps to learn what the cause was. What would be the equivalent for you---the OD lockout switch, the reverse lamp switch? Bob On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:40:39 -0400 saidel at camden.rutgers.edu writes: > Anybody have an idea where the fault lay when the oil pressure gauge > > indicates only the transition pressures? > > That is, going at a comfortable and constant speed, the oil pressure > > gauge indicates just above 0, but changing gears the gauge jumps up > to > a nice position. > For you ee types, the gauge reads the AC but not the DC. > > Is this most likely a gauge effect or a pressure sender effect? > It is not an oil quantity effect! The dip stick is happy. > TIA, > > Bill S. > BMCSNJ > '74B > '76B ____________________________________________________________ Want more out of life? Click here to find a massage therapy school and begin an exciting career. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l9demf0wTukzCWN1lNWpxy40bx3NOMm6McExcZ6coONwny9/ From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Mon Jul 28 17:33:39 2008 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:33:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: References: <4E0523DAF035412D9F24858861506D7C@uw471de61b465c> <007b01c8ec4b$be567aa0$3b036fe0$@com> <009001c8ed1c$c7863df0$5692b9d0$@com> Message-ID: <00ac01c8f10a$5d5026c0$17f07440$@com> It will not hurt anything, but back when my dad was working on Sunbeams back in the '70s, he got one that someone had put 90w in. Caused the shift to be slow and felt "funny". Switched it to engine oil and there was one happy customer when he picked it up with how nice the shifter felt. When I started looking for an MG in '84 I found this really nice one with no rust and only very slight collision damage that had been well repaired. But the owner said it did have something wrong with the transmission. I drove it, and it felt exactly like that Sunbeam. Since it had the dipstick behind the radio I confirmed the problem and bought it. Actually, I would have bought it anyway, I had already found a replacement transmission J Got it home, changed to engine oil, and shortly thereafter met my wife because of it. Still have both. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ From: Monte/Jane Morris [mailto:montejane at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 8:37 AM To: Stephen West-fisher Cc: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? l'm probably getting in on the middle of this conversation, but my Bentley's MG manual says that 90 wt in the tranny is fine, although I just changed mine and used 10-30. Monte From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Mon Jul 28 17:37:13 2008 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:37:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <20080728.095827.2996.5.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080728.095827.2996.5.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <00b101c8f10a$dd2f2300$978d6900$@com> Interesting, a Haynes came with mine when I bought it in '84 and it states engine oil. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Howard Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 9:58 AM To: montejane at gmail.com Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? Monte, Is it your Bentley's or your Haynes manual that cited 90w? I have a Haynes that says 90w but my green-cover Bentley recommends the motor oils. From montejane at gmail.com Mon Jul 28 20:53:36 2008 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 22:53:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <20080728.095827.2996.5.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080728.095827.2996.5.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: Bob, et al, I'm away from home just now or I'd look for certain, but I have the red manual for 74 or 75-80 MGB's. I thought it was a Bentley's but I may be mistaken (my wife says I usually am:). I used to have the matching green one when I had the 67B. Monte On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 9:58 AM, Bob Howard wrote: > Monte, > Is it your Bentley's or your Haynes manual that cited 90w? > I have a Haynes that says 90w but my green-cover Bentley recommends > the motor oils. > MG did OK the use of 90w in a TSB, but soon thereafter rescinded that > bulletin. > Bob > > On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 07:37:19 -0500 "Monte/Jane Morris" > writes: > > l'm probably getting in on the middle of this conversation, but my > > Bentley's > > MG manual says that 90 wt in the tranny is fine, although I just > > changed > > mine and used 10-30. > > Monte > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Need cash? Click to get a loan. > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mKivlgWUBMbbSLlOMjdKcFlEemlPpvpkP0dHQ4cb9wd0P9S/ From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Jul 29 00:15:26 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 23:15:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question In-Reply-To: <20080728.165448.2996.14.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080728.165448.2996.14.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <40b437200807282315u5f996dc1ua4b8893009d37f65@mail.gmail.com> I would be willing to bet that the trailer problem was not with a bulb, but instead a bad earth. Bad earths can cause all kinds of strange behaviour in lighting systems -- what may happen is that there is a current path through the indicator bulb, to ground and (since ground is not connected to the vehicle ground) from ground in the reverse direction through the brake light circuit (or through whatever actuates the trailer brakes). Regards, Simon On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 1:54 PM, Bob Howard wrote: > Bill, > This sounds related to the question someone asked Car Talk on > Saturday, the guy out west who asked why the electric brakes on his > trailer went on whenever he switched on his 4-way flashers. The > suggestion was that he had a bad lightbulb in one of the flasher > fixtures. It will be interesting if he gets called back for Stump The > Chumps to learn what the cause was. > What would be the equivalent for you---the OD lockout switch, the > reverse lamp switch? > Bob From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Jul 29 00:39:14 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 23:39:14 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question In-Reply-To: <40b437200807282315u5f996dc1ua4b8893009d37f65@mail.gmail.com> References: <20080728.165448.2996.14.MGBOB@juno.com> <40b437200807282315u5f996dc1ua4b8893009d37f65@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Not just lighting circuits. Back when I was teaching for Volvo, in my electrical fault tracing class, I would disconnect the ground plate at one front headlight. All the grounds were connected to the plate, but the plate itself was not grounded. Turning on the headlights caused the wipers to start. Turning on the high beams, caused the front wipers to go to high speed, and if it was a wagon caused the rear wiper to turn on. I made the students use a wiring diagram to figure it all out before I even let them open the hood. (bonnet <-obligatory LBC reference) You should have seen the looks on their faces when the wipers started up. I will save you the reply. The washer motor(s) grounded at the same plate as the headlight. Current from the headlight feed back though the washer motor (not enough to start them) and hit the wiper motor that thought you had activated the washers, so it turned on the wipers. On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 11:15 PM, Simon Matthews wrote: > I would be willing to bet that the trailer problem was not with a > bulb, but instead a bad earth. Bad earths can cause all kinds of > strange behaviour in lighting systems -- what may happen is that there > is a current path through the indicator bulb, to ground and (since > ground is not connected to the vehicle ground) from ground in the > reverse direction through the brake light circuit (or through whatever > actuates the trailer brakes). > > Regards, > Simon > > On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 1:54 PM, Bob Howard wrote: > > Bill, > > This sounds related to the question someone asked Car Talk on > > Saturday, the guy out west who asked why the electric brakes on his > > trailer went on whenever he switched on his 4-way flashers. The > > suggestion was that he had a bad lightbulb in one of the flasher > > fixtures. It will be interesting if he gets called back for Stump The > > Chumps to learn what the cause was. > > What would be the equivalent for you---the OD lockout switch, the > > reverse lamp switch? > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From vlw66 at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 29 10:04:23 2008 From: vlw66 at sbcglobal.net (J Foster) Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 11:04:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000601c8f194$c5e40cd0$6701a8c0@escort> -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+vlw66=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+vlw66=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 1:39 AM To: Simon Matthews Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question I made the students use a wiring diagram to figure it all out before I even let them open the hood. Kudos! Excellent approach! If only more students were taught that way!! From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Jul 29 15:18:07 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 23:18:07 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question References: <20080728144039.a5brnb50isokkowc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <9CB543B853A74C5C8EC1374398877846@uw471de61b465c> This is just happening with my BGT after the engine has been fully overhauled recently! Up to now the gauge indicated the pressure very well - it indeed pointed me last autumn for the engine in high need of the overhaul showing very low pressure. Apparantly I've to dig into the beloved Lucas wiring. As I'll collect the GT from my friend's garage after he fixed a sticky valve in the valve guide next thursday, I certainly have a closer look to this. One always should go back to the things, which recently were touched i.e. in my case the engine has been taken from the engine bay, so were all wire connections of all things connected to the engine. Changing gears was not needed for my GT to have the gauge to go up to high pressure indications again. Just changing to hugher or lower revs would do the trick. All contacts will be checked and I'll keep you posted. Constant speeds at some 60 mph sets my GT's gauge to a very low indication. I'll follow the replies to this topic with high interest! Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 8:40 PM Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question > Anybody have an idea where the fault lay when the oil pressure gauge > indicates only the transition pressures? > > That is, going at a comfortable and constant speed, the oil pressure > gauge indicates just above 0, but changing gears the gauge jumps up to > a nice position. > For you ee types, the gauge reads the AC but not the DC. > > Is this most likely a gauge effect or a pressure sender effect? > It is not an oil quantity effect! The dip stick is happy. > TIA, > > Bill S. > BMCSNJ > '74B > '76B From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 29 17:06:11 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:06:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 5. Re: 90w in Transmission? - thick with confusion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <37DE8DFC-5894-4EB8-9A67-72A4CF4993EA@sbcglobal.net> hmmm, the transmission oil story sounds *thick* with confusion :) From Wikipedia: "API viscosity ratings for gear oils are not directly comparable with those for motor oil, and they are thinner than the figures suggest. For example, many modern gearboxes use a 75W90 gear oil, which is actually of equivalent viscosity to a 10W40 motor oil." http:// en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil From shop at justbrits.com Wed Jul 30 15:21:04 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 15:21:04 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] FW: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance Message-ID: Even tho we have had conversations on this topic before, below IS 'new' fodder for the pile!! ------------------------------------------------------ Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 1:48 PM To: spridgets at autox.team.net Subject: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance >From the Personal Journal section of the July 30 Wall Street Journal http://online.wsj.com/article/SB121737402789495041.html?mod=todays_us_nonsub _ pj [or http://tinyurl.com/6nsmvc ] San Jose CA '60 MK 1 From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com Wed Jul 30 19:10:24 2008 From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 21:10:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] FW: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance Message-ID: <2247931.692151217466624336.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web10-z02> Thanks for the heads up on the insurance article. My MG has always been insured with our other vehicles. For funzies I went on the Hagerty website. Their quote for my 71 MGB/GT with 500$ deductible and a $10K vlue is half of what we are now paying with the multiple cars disc. and 2 residences insured with same co.....Mel ---- Ed's Shop wrote: > Even tho we have had conversations on this topic before, below IS 'new' > fodder for the pile!! > ------------------------------------------------------ > Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 1:48 PM > To: spridgets at autox.team.net > Subject: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance > > > >From the Personal Journal section of the July 30 Wall Street Journal > > http://online.wsj.com/article/SB121737402789495041.html?mod=todays_us_nonsub > _ > pj > > [or http://tinyurl.com/6nsmvc ] > San Jose CA > '60 MK 1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From david_breneman at yahoo.com Wed Jul 30 21:52:25 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 20:52:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] FW: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance In-Reply-To: <2247931.692151217466624336.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web10-z02> Message-ID: <363324.83067.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Wed, 7/30/08, melfrankus at carolina.rr.com wrote: > Thanks for the heads up on the insurance article. My MG has > always been insured with our other vehicles. For funzies I > went on the Hagerty website. Their quote for my 71 MGB/GT > with 500$ deductible and a $10K vlue is half of what we are > now paying with the multiple cars disc. and 2 residences > insured with same co.....Mel I don't think Hagerty has made a dime off me. In the five years my MGA has been insured with them (since it was restored) for $200/year, they've bought me a windshield (zero deductible) and towed my car when the differential self destructed. Both those claims were in the first three years. They may be gaining on me by now. :-) From agreenberg at aol.com Thu Jul 31 09:35:00 2008 From: agreenberg at aol.com (agreenberg at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 11:35:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Connecticut MGB for sale Message-ID: <8CAC13A20CB9508-B7C-564@webmail-dd08.sysops.aol.com> Heya Folks, I've finally run out of time and driveway space for my 1976 MGB. I bought it in '01 and did a bunch of work on it with my then 15 yearold son. It was fun but he's 21 and interested in other things and I just don't have the time to spend. I'm figuring about $700 for the car and everything MG I have...shop and parts books, odds and ends, big parts like transmision and windshield and lots of small parts. If anyone is interested in giving him a new home ( the car not my son ) please contact me off list and I can give you details. Best Regards, Alex ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From dannyvarnado at cox.net Thu Jul 31 20:08:11 2008 From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado) Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 19:08:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition switch wiring Message-ID: <006c01c8f37b$784146d0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Hi List, Can anyone tell me what the purple/pink stripe wire in the ignition switch harness attaches to on the steering column end? This is the wire that goes to ground when the key is inserted. It has a smaller than normal insulated female spade connector and does not connect to the ignition switch itself. Danny V. '76 MGB