From schultejim at msn.com Wed Jan 2 18:50:21 2008 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 20:50:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG 2008 Hotel is Booked, all 700 rooms over 4 nights are taken Message-ID: Well the good news is this is going to be one big show!!!!!! The bad news is all the host Hotel rooms have been booked. 700 rooms over 4 nights. SOOO we have contacted another Hotel 1 mile from the host Hotel and will have a signed contract by this weekend. The on line registration should be up by then as well. This is so exciting! Six months out and we are still going strong. Wait til the procrastinators finally register )-; It looks like 350 cars or more could be a reality. Our banquet room will hold 325 so make sure you sign up early for that if you plan on attending it. I'm sure you will really enjoy it!! You will get steak and chicken for 1 price or if you are a vegetarian, that will be available as well. Again, if you have any problems or concerns, please contact me at the email address above. Safety Fast Jim Schulte MG 2008 Co-Coordinator Valley Forge PA June 25 to 29th all MGB's, Midgets, 1100's, 1300's and MGC's are welcome as well as any British Sports car or Salon From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Jan 4 09:24:52 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 08:24:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Weekend fun Message-ID: <100620.22286.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Woohoooo! Almost weekend here in the Western hemisphere! Last evening my gasket head-set arrived for the MGB so I am ready to get after the valves. Weather in Houston promises to be in the 70s, mid-day, so the garage will be just toasty. My quest will be to discover how and where the #2 cylinder's valve(s) are leaking. The pressure is down to about 105psi from the 135 average value on the other cylinders. (The other three cylinders are within 1psi of the same pressure!) Given that the pressure drop on #2 is not huge - bad yes but not terrible - I'm hoping that I'll be able to just lap the existing valves onto their seats and solve the problem. So the message is that I'm going to try to spend some 'quality time' in the garage this weekend. I plan to photograph everything, before and after, as is usual for me. If interested, look for an update perhaps tonight and throughout the weekend. regards, Rick '70 MGB other stuff From ptrmgb at gmail.com Fri Jan 4 09:37:07 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 10:37:07 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Weekend fun In-Reply-To: <100620.22286.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <100620.22286.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Check out John Twist's latest youtube video. He show you how to figure out which values are bad. Search for University Motors. On Jan 4, 2008, at 10:24 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote: > Woohoooo! Almost weekend here in the Western > hemisphere! > > Last evening my gasket head-set arrived for the MGB so > I am ready to get after the valves. Weather in > Houston promises to be in the 70s, mid-day, so the > garage will be just toasty. > > My quest will be to discover how and where the #2 > cylinder's valve(s) are leaking. The pressure is down > to about 105psi from the 135 average value on the > other cylinders. (The other three cylinders are > within 1psi of the same pressure!) Given that the > pressure drop on #2 is not huge - bad yes but not > terrible - I'm hoping that I'll be able to just lap > the existing valves onto their seats and solve the > problem. So the message is that I'm going to try to > spend some 'quality time' in the garage this weekend. > I plan to photograph everything, before and after, as > is usual for me. If interested, look for an update > perhaps tonight and throughout the weekend. > > regards, > Rick > '70 MGB > other stuff > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Jan 4 15:09:11 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:09:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] the fun begins Message-ID: <738205.57062.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A bit ago I wrote: > And now, a look at the combustion chambers and the > valves: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0862.JPG In > this view, the #4 cylinder is on the left. Again, > there is nothing visually revealing about #2's > pressure problem. Upon reinspection, I have noticed that the discoloration on the #2 exhaust valve is asymetrical. Check it out. Once I disassemble the valve train I will inspect that discolored side and will probably find that the valve and/or seat is burned there. Who knows how the valves were adjusted before I got the car. I'll send pictures once I get it opened. More as the discovery process continues. rick From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Jan 4 18:24:08 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 17:24:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] the fun begins In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <205497.62266.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Yes to all the above. My first post was based upon a quick-look and an assumption. I was wrong. The intake valve has been hotter as evidenced by the discoloration on the valve. I'll get it opened tomorrow and will share photographs. rick --- Richard Ewald wrote: > Don't you mean #2 intake is discolored? > (Working from memory, cause I am too lazy to go grab > my shop manual) > 5 port head > Two intakes, three exhaust. > Looking at the head, the bigger valves are closest > to each other in 1 & 2 > and 3 & 4 these would be the intakes. > The small valves at at the ends (1 & 4) and next to > each other for cylinder > 2 & 3 > That gives three exhaust ports, and two intake > ports. > Also aren't intakes always larger as the air > pressure is lower? > rick > > PS, Set the head on its side and try filling the > valve tracks with liquid to > see which ones leak. Old mechanics trick. > > On Jan 4, 2008 2:09 PM, Rick Lindsay > wrote: > > > A bit ago I wrote: > > > > > And now, a look at the combustion chambers and > the > > > valves: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0862.JPG > In > > > this view, the #4 cylinder is on the left. > Again, > > > there is nothing visually revealing about #2's > > > pressure problem. > > > > Upon reinspection, I have noticed that the > > discoloration on the #2 exhaust valve is > asymetrical. > > Check it out. Once I disassemble the valve train > I > > will inspect that discolored side and will > probably > > find that the valve and/or seat is burned there. > Who > > knows how the valves were adjusted before I got > the > > car. I'll send pictures once I get it opened. > > > > > > More as the discovery process continues. > > > > rick > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Jan 5 11:50:09 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 10:50:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Cylinders, deck and pistons... Message-ID: <685805.88783.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Gang, I don't know what happened to my last e-mail referencing about a dozen pictures, but it didn't ever get posted. Anyway, the pictures are at http://www.aubard.us/MGB and start with HPIM0851.JPG and count upward through HPIM0862.JPG. This afternoon I have more pictures as the work continues. They are at the same site and start at HPIM0863.JPG up through HPIM0867.JPG What is shown in these pictures is the MGB's cylinders, pistons and deck, after cleaning them up. rick From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Jan 5 13:05:56 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 14:05:56 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Cylinders, deck and pistons... In-Reply-To: <685805.88783.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <685805.88783.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <30CCEB0A-6781-4F3E-A53E-E79ABBE3F5B5@gmail.com> Rick, You should look at Jalbum. It's a freeware program that will easily make webpages of pictures for you. Make it a lot easier for us to see all the pictures you make. It's free. It's easy. It doesn't take much more time than just uploading pictures. And it works on multiple platforms, Linux, Unix, MacOS X, and that Redmond thing that some people use. :-) Paul. On Jan 5, 2008, at 12:50 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote: > Hello Gang, > I don't know what happened to my last e-mail > referencing about a dozen pictures, but it didn't ever > get posted. Anyway, the pictures are at > http://www.aubard.us/MGB and start with HPIM0851.JPG > and count upward through HPIM0862.JPG. > This afternoon I have more pictures as the work > continues. They are at the same site and start at > HPIM0863.JPG up through HPIM0867.JPG What is shown in > these pictures is the MGB's cylinders, pistons and > deck, after cleaning them up. > > rick > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 6 10:08:54 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 11:08:54 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Ten Thoughts For 2008 Message-ID: <013701c85086$d1af1050$6401a8c0@Larry> FW: Ten Thoughts For 2008Ten Thoughts to Ponder for 2008 Number 10 Life is sexually transmitted. Number 9 Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die. Number 8 Men have two emotions: Hungry and Horny. If you see him without an erection, make him a sandwich. Number 7 Give a person a fish and you feed them for a day, teach a person to use the internet and they won't bother you for weeks. Number 6 Some people are like a Slinky ....Not really good for anything, but you still can't help but smile when you shove them down the stairs. Number 5 Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing. Number 4 All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to Criticism. Number 3 Why does a slight tax increase cost you $200.00 and a substantial tax cut saves you $30.00? Number 2 In the 60's, people took acid to make the world weird. Now the world is Weird and people take Prozac to make it normal. And The Number 1 Thought For 2008: We know exactly where one cow with Mad-cow-disease is located among millions and millions of cows in America but we haven't got a clue as to where millions of illegal immigrants and terrorists are located. Maybe we should put the Department of Agriculture in charge of Immigration. "Life is like a jar of Jalapeno peppers. What you do today, might Burn Your Ass Tomorrow". From rocknatural at gmail.com Sun Jan 6 10:45:50 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 11:45:50 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Ten Thoughts For 2008 In-Reply-To: <013701c85086$d1af1050$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <013701c85086$d1af1050$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <478113CE.1010205@gmail.com> Larry Daniels wrote: > Number 7 Give a person a fish and you feed them for a day, teach a person to > use the internet and they won't bother you for weeks. Terry Pratchett's version of this one: "Build a man a fire and you make him warm for one night. Set a man on fire and you make him warm for the rest of his life." -The Roxter -- From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sun Jan 6 13:57:00 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 12:57:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Ten Thoughts For 2008 In-Reply-To: <478113CE.1010205@gmail.com> Message-ID: <422084.58949.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If a man says something in the woods and there's no woman to hear him, is he still wrong? David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Sun Jan 6 15:21:01 2008 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 17:21:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Ten Thoughts For 2008 In-Reply-To: <422084.58949.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <422084.58949.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080106172101.wjcz9g48gsg80owo@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> If my B backfires when unaccompanied on an empty road, is maintenance necessary?? Bill Saidel Bill.Saidel at gmail.com > If a man says something in the woods and there's no > woman to hear him, is he still wrong? > > > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com From Aeseeyou at aol.com Sun Jan 6 15:35:41 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 17:35:41 EST Subject: [Mgs] Ten Thoughts For 2008 Message-ID: If I say "Boy my car is running great!" Will that cause my LBC to quit running or start making funny noises? Albert Escalante-CCBCC West Coast **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 6 17:20:39 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 18:20:39 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] water pump question References: <002b01c8442e$9eaafed0$6401a8c0@XPS400> <007901c8447d$b8da1580$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <000201c850c3$23151c50$8215a8c0@garage.local> hi, all. was flushing the cooling system today, and thought maybe this is not the way it is supposed to be. at idle, with the hose open coming from the water pump (connected to pvc so it doesn't get water everywhere), the water comes in waves or spurts, not a continuous stream. to me this is counter intuitive. is it ok or do i need to look deeper and wetter? thanks! From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Jan 6 17:49:07 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 16:49:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] compression problem found Message-ID: <317611.46558.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Steve and other friends, The asymmetrically oxidized valve head on the #2 cylinder ( http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0862.JPG ) led me to assume that the discoloration was related to the pressure leak. And so it seems is the case. Here's a look at that valve from the stem end http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0884.JPG . The dull, black area is where the valve hasn't been closing completely. The build-up on the back of the valve head is normal for an old, rarely used, long-since-rebuilt engine. Removing all this crud will make a big difference in how the engine starts and runs. A further look at the valve seat confirms the problem http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0885.JPG . http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0886.JPG shows the various components, minus the wire clip as it is already in the Zip-loc baggie. The small black half-circles are parts of the old oil seal. These little o-rings get hard and crumble to pieces easily once aged. New rings come with the fel-pro head set. And finally, here is a picture of the tool I use to remove the valves. It's a generic $15 valve spring compressor from the auto parts store http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0887.JPG . I rest the head on a small block of wood within the combustion space, to hold the valve closed against the compressor's force. you can see it also in this picture. As the week wears on I'll work my way through the head, removing valves and cleaning them up for re-lapping onto their seats. While the head is off, it is false economy to not rebuild the whole valve train. regards, rick From shop at justbrits.com Sun Jan 6 19:02:58 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 20:02:58 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Ten Thoughts For 2008 References: Message-ID: <024a01c850d1$6d53bb10$6401a8c0@actualshop> <> As you WELL KNOW Albert, as SURE as God made little green apples!!!!! Ed From glenel at videotron.ca Sun Jan 6 21:32:16 2008 From: glenel at videotron.ca (Glen) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 23:32:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Zen Sarcasm Message-ID: <000601c850e6$482e4070$6400a8c0@IBM23B634F21A7> 1. Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just pretty much leave me alone. 2. The journey of a thousand miles begins with a broken fan belt and leaky tire. 3. It's always darkest before dawn. So if you're going to steal your neighbor's newspaper, that's the time to do it. 4. Don't be irreplaceable. If you can't be replaced, you can't be promoted. 5. Always remember that you're unique. Just like everyone else. 6. Never test the depth of the water with both feet. 7. If you think nobody cares if you're alive, try missing a couple of car payments. 8. Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes. 9. If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you. 10. Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day. 11. If you lend someone $20 and never see that person again, it was probably worth it. 12. If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember anything. 13. Some days you're the bug; some days you're the windshield. 14 Everyone seems normal until you get to know them. 15. The quickest way to double your money is to fold it in half and put it back in your pocket. 16. A closed mouth gathers no foot. 17. Duct tape is like 'The Force'. It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together. 18. There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works. 19. Generally speaking, you aren't learning much when your lips are moving. 20 Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it. 21. Never miss a good chance to shut up. 22. Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night. From rocknatural at gmail.com Sun Jan 6 23:36:24 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 00:36:24 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] compression problem found In-Reply-To: <317611.46558.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <317611.46558.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4781C868.50306@gmail.com> Rick Lindsay wrote: > Hello Steve and other friends, > > The asymmetrically oxidized valve head on the #2 > cylinder ( http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0862.JPG ) led > me to assume that the discoloration was related to the > pressure leak. And so it seems is the case. > > Here's a look at that valve from the stem end > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0884.JPG . The dull, > black area is where the valve hasn't been closing > completely. The build-up on the back of the valve > head is normal for an old, rarely used, > long-since-rebuilt engine. Removing all this crud > will make a big difference in how the engine starts > and runs. > > A further look at the valve seat confirms the problem > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0885.JPG Looks like the valve stem is slightly bent. -The Roxter -- From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 7 01:46:01 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 08:46:01 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] water pump question References: <002b01c8442e$9eaafed0$6401a8c0@XPS400><007901c8447d$b8da1580$0200a8c0@Three> <000201c850c3$23151c50$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <00b301c8510a$ea0a3740$0200a8c0@Three> Why were you flushing? Do you have cooling problems? If not then I'd leave well alone. With the cooling system no longer a closed circuit you could have air in there, both of which could cause all sorts of funny things with the engine running. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > at idle, with the hose open coming from the water pump (connected to pvc > so > it doesn't get water everywhere), the water comes in waves or spurts, not > a > continuous stream. From rolindsay at yahoo.com Mon Jan 7 06:19:35 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 05:19:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Zen Sarcasm In-Reply-To: <000601c850e6$482e4070$6400a8c0@IBM23B634F21A7> Message-ID: <571364.30164.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 23. When one person believes in spirits and talks to them its called insanity. When many people do the same, its called religion. --- Glen wrote: > 1. Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not > walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk > beside me either. Just pretty much leave me alone. > > 2. The journey of a thousand miles begins with a > broken fan belt and leaky tire. > > 3. It's always darkest before dawn. So if you're > going to steal your neighbor's newspaper, that's the > time to do it. > > 4. Don't be irreplaceable. If you can't be replaced, > you can't be promoted. > > 5. Always remember that you're unique. Just like > everyone else. > > 6. Never test the depth of the water with both feet. > > > 7. If you think nobody cares if you're alive, try > missing a couple of car payments. > > 8. Before you criticize someone, you should walk a > mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize > them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes. > > 9. If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not > for you. > > 10. Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. > Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat and > drink beer all day. > > 11. If you lend someone $20 and never see that > person again, it was probably worth it. > > 12. If you tell the truth, you don't have to > remember anything. > > 13. Some days you're the bug; some days you're the > windshield. > > 14 Everyone seems normal until you get to know them. > > > 15. The quickest way to double your money is to fold > it in half and put it back in your pocket. > > 16. A closed mouth gathers no foot. > > 17. Duct tape is like 'The Force'. It has a light > side and a dark side, and it holds the universe > together. > > 18. There are two theories to arguing with women. > Neither one works. > > 19. Generally speaking, you aren't learning much > when your lips are moving. > > 20 Experience is something you don't get until just > after you need it. > > 21. Never miss a good chance to shut up. > > 22. Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping > pill and a laxative on the same night. From rolindsay at yahoo.com Mon Jan 7 06:20:44 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 05:20:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] compression problem found In-Reply-To: <4781C868.50306@gmail.com> Message-ID: <355945.26228.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That is certainly possible and will be tested. Same with the pushrods. rick --- The Roxter wrote: > Rick Lindsay wrote: > > Hello Steve and other friends, > > > > The asymmetrically oxidized valve head on the #2 > > cylinder ( http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0862.JPG ) > led > > me to assume that the discoloration was related to > the > > pressure leak. And so it seems is the case. > > > > Here's a look at that valve from the stem end > > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0884.JPG . The dull, > > black area is where the valve hasn't been closing > > completely. The build-up on the back of the valve > > head is normal for an old, rarely used, > > long-since-rebuilt engine. Removing all this crud > > will make a big difference in how the engine > starts > > and runs. > > > > A further look at the valve seat confirms the > problem > > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0885.JPG > Looks like the valve stem is slightly bent. > > -The Roxter > -- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From RampantNM at aol.com Tue Jan 8 12:20:31 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 14:20:31 EST Subject: [Mgs] e-bay scam Message-ID: In a message dated 12/23/2007 6:11:14 PM Mountain Standard Time, tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com writes: It was only because of my awareness of Ebay requirements that saved me from being $5,900 out of pocket, also the fact that a 1953 MGTD would never be sold for such a price. But I must admit was tempted to send the money. I know I'm way late on this response, but I'm wading through 350+ emails that built up over the holidays. For that kind of price, I'd have spent a few hundred more and flown to see the car. I'm sure when you suggested that they would have found reasons to stop you. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From barrie at look.ca Tue Jan 8 13:56:51 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 15:56:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] e-bay scam In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just as a warning ! One of the chaps at our rowing club was an RCMP officer who worked on "Nigerian Scams". He told me not to mess about with the scammers - no responses, no attempts to play games with them...and no contact!! These people, he told me, were not above murder and he knew of several people being found dead on the streets after "visiting" !! So be aware that going walk-about may not be a good idea. Dunno what US police are like but he said that the RCMP would look into reports on such obvious scams - and oh boy, I do mean obvious! At 02:20 PM 1/8/2008, RampantNM at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 12/23/2007 6:11:14 PM Mountain Standard Time, >tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com writes: > >It was only because of my awareness >of Ebay requirements that saved me from being $5,900 out of pocket, also the >fact that a 1953 MGTD would never be sold for such a price. But I must admit >was tempted to send the money. > > > >I know I'm way late on this response, but I'm wading through 350+ emails >that built up over the holidays. > >For that kind of price, I'd have spent a few hundred more and flown to see >the car. I'm sure when you suggested that they would have found reasons to >stop you. > >Regards, > >Robert B. Houston > >74.5 MGBGT >73 MG Midget > >As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union >carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, >perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching >for experienced hands, >the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and >adjusted as >described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. > > > > >**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. >http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From zymmer4 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 8 16:44:29 2008 From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 15:44:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] e-bay scam In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <491801.10854.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> good call, Don't expect E-Bay to police itself..sounds like DC to me..;-) howard --- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 12/23/2007 6:11:14 PM Mountain > Standard Time, > tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com writes: > > It was only because of my awareness > of Ebay requirements that saved me from being > $5,900 out of pocket, also the > fact that a 1953 MGTD would never be sold for such > a price. But I must admit > was tempted to send the money. > > > > I know I'm way late on this response, but I'm wading > through 350+ emails > that built up over the holidays. > > For that kind of price, I'd have spent a few hundred > more and flown to see > the car. I'm sure when you suggested that they > would have found reasons to > stop you. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of > the dual Skinners Union > carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet > pleasingly formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, > aching for experienced hands, > the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging > to be inspected and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop > manual. > > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways > to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as zymmer4 at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jan 8 16:55:41 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 17:55:41 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Free Stuff for Sale from Moss? In-Reply-To: <013701c85086$d1af1050$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <013701c85086$d1af1050$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <47840D7D.5040205@ktc.com> I just couldn't get by this Email ad. If it's free how can it be for sale? LOL CR From david_breneman at yahoo.com Tue Jan 8 21:14:05 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 20:14:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Free Stuff for Sale from Moss? In-Reply-To: <47840D7D.5040205@ktc.com> Message-ID: <950539.16722.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > I just couldn't get by this Email ad. If it's free how can it be > for sale? LOL I think I speak for everyone here when I say, "Huh?!" David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From johnhed at comcast.net Wed Jan 9 10:58:08 2008 From: johnhed at comcast.net (johnhed at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 17:58:08 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap Message-ID: <010920081758.23870.47850B2D000A039200005D3E22135753330B0A0802080106@comcast.net> If I get my hands on an overdrive transmission to swap into my 80B, how easy is that? Other than having ot get the wiring harness and new shifter, does it just swap in or are there different mounts, drive shaft, etc? John Hed 80 B-LE (non-OD!) From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 9 11:03:49 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 10:03:49 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: <010920081758.23870.47850B2D000A039200005D3E22135753330B0A0802080106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295136@kb1.mossmotors.com> John: It's a piece of cake. Drive shaft, mounts are all the same. The speedo calibration may be an issue depending on which trans you get. Any OD from 1968-80 will bolt in though. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of johnhed at comcast.net > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 9:58 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap > > If I get my hands on an overdrive transmission to swap into > my 80B, how easy is that? Other than having ot get the > wiring harness and new shifter, does it just swap in or are > there different mounts, drive shaft, etc? > > John Hed > 80 B-LE (non-OD!) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as doddk at mossmotors.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 9 11:04:07 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 10:04:07 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: <010920081758.23870.47850B2D000A039200005D3E22135753330B0A0802080106@comcast.net> Message-ID: Within the same generation, I think it is a straight swap, unless the driveshaft length is different (this changed over the years -- the Moss catalog has a reference). The "wiring harness" is just one or two wires and could easily be cobbled up from the diagram, I should think. But I'm not familiar with the late models specifically. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/9/08 9:58 AM, johnhed at comcast.net at johnhed at comcast.net wrote: > If I get my hands on an overdrive transmission to swap into my 80B, how easy > is that? Other than having ot get the wiring harness and new shifter, does it > just swap in or are there different mounts, drive shaft, etc? > > John Hed > 80 B-LE (non-OD!) From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Wed Jan 9 11:21:17 2008 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 11:21:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: References: <010920081758.23870.47850B2D000A039200005D3E22135753330B0A0802080106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F089@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> The wiring is as Max says. Essentially just one wire (hot) which connects to the OD on a switch. The switch then has a wire to go to the solenoid. This switch only completes the circuit when the car is in 3rd and 4th gear. This hot wire then needs to go to a switched circuit that allows you to turn the OD on/off. That's on the 68-74 OD. I'm not sure the circuit on the later ODs because they use a switch on the shifter I think. But on the 68-74 OD, the wire could connect to a yellow wire in the harness that goes to the switch that is incorporated as part of the stalk that handles the wipers although not all stalk mechanisms have the OD part built in. That's how I did my 72B until the OD went out. On my previous car, a 71B, I had run the wire from OD on to a switch on the console, one of the cheap BL plastic switches (an extra fan switch I think). Anyway, that should give you an idea. Likely no need for a harness, just a 14-16 gauge wire. I also used an OD drive shaft but that may not be necessary as the lengths are not vastly different on the drive shafts. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 11:04 AM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive swap Within the same generation, I think it is a straight swap, unless the driveshaft length is different (this changed over the years -- the Moss catalog has a reference). The "wiring harness" is just one or two wires and could easily be cobbled up from the diagram, I should think. But I'm not familiar with the late models specifically. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From mgbob at juno.com Wed Jan 9 11:31:47 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 13:31:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap Message-ID: <20080109.133147.2524.13.MGBOB@juno.com> John, It's an easy swap, and certainly worth doing. Mounts are the same, drive shaft is the same for the 'later' cars. Shaft measurements are puzzling. See Paul Hunt's site for discussion on this topic. Earliest MGBs used a toggle switch on the dash; later cars the windshield wiper switch did wipers and OD, and from 410001 the switch was in the shift knob. Some say that the wiring in the shift knob can be troublesome. You can wire it any way you like, though, as the ODs get their power through one wire from the switch. By 1980 there was some sort of 3rd gear lockout so that OD would not operate in third. Somewhere in the USA is probably a car that still has this feature. You can ignore it. Bob On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 17:58:08 +0000 johnhed at comcast.net writes: > If I get my hands on an overdrive transmission to swap into my 80B, > how easy is that? Other than having ot get the wiring harness and > new shifter, does it just swap in or are there different mounts, > drive shaft, etc? > > John Hed > 80 B-LE (non-OD!) From zymmer4 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 12:12:31 2008 From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 11:12:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: <20080109.133147.2524.13.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <607473.87890.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi John, Your B probably has the wire to the O/D tranny already in the harness..It is a purple wire in the harness..My 1976 B had the wire, and it was already at the transmission area. I took my 1974 O/D transmission, installed it, and plugged in the purple wire that was hanging there. I have that O/D transmission here in Wv. right now..I can sell it or the whole car to you. Howard 1976 B-tourer --- Bob Howard wrote: > John, > It's an easy swap, and certainly worth doing. > Mounts are the same, drive shaft is the same for > the 'later' cars. > Shaft measurements are puzzling. See Paul Hunt's > site for discussion on > this topic. > Earliest MGBs used a toggle switch on the dash; > later cars the > windshield wiper switch did wipers and OD, and from > 410001 the switch was > in the shift knob. Some say that the wiring in the > shift knob can be > troublesome. You can wire it any way you like, > though, as the ODs get > their power through one wire from the switch. > By 1980 there was some sort of 3rd gear lockout > so that OD would not > operate in third. Somewhere in the USA is probably > a car that still has > this feature. You can ignore it. > > Bob > > > On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 17:58:08 +0000 > johnhed at comcast.net writes: > > If I get my hands on an overdrive transmission to > swap into my 80B, > > how easy is that? Other than having ot get the > wiring harness and > > new shifter, does it just swap in or are there > different mounts, > > drive shaft, etc? > > > > John Hed > > 80 B-LE (non-OD!) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as zymmer4 at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 9 12:56:42 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 11:56:42 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: <20080109.133147.2524.13.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: How would you go about "disabling" the 3rd gear lockout? As far as I can tell it's a contact switch that only enables the OD circuit when the shifter is in 4th gear. It's exactly the same switch as the reverse lamp switch, only on the other side of the tranny case. I see how you could bypass it to allow OD in all 4 gears plus reverse, but I know that would not be a good idea. Please explicate. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/9/08 10:31 AM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote: > John, > It's an easy swap, and certainly worth doing. > Mounts are the same, drive shaft is the same for the 'later' cars. > Shaft measurements are puzzling. See Paul Hunt's site for discussion on > this topic. > Earliest MGBs used a toggle switch on the dash; later cars the > windshield wiper switch did wipers and OD, and from 410001 the switch was > in the shift knob. Some say that the wiring in the shift knob can be > troublesome. You can wire it any way you like, though, as the ODs get > their power through one wire from the switch. > By 1980 there was some sort of 3rd gear lockout so that OD would not > operate in third. Somewhere in the USA is probably a car that still has > this feature. You can ignore it. > > Bob > > > On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 17:58:08 +0000 johnhed at comcast.net writes: >> If I get my hands on an overdrive transmission to swap into my 80B, >> how easy is that? Other than having ot get the wiring harness and >> new shifter, does it just swap in or are there different mounts, >> drive shaft, etc? >> >> John Hed >> 80 B-LE (non-OD!) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 9 15:09:52 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 16:09:52 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F089@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> References: <010920081758.23870.47850B2D000A039200005D3E22135753330B0A0802080106@comcast.net> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F089@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <0152C2151E7A43E4A2E5F3EF21609A02@garage.local> this may not be much help - on a 73 the driveshaft is the same and the wires are already there - btdt From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Jan 9 15:50:38 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 16:50:38 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger Message-ID: There's a Judson on ebay, auction no. 250201946628 It's for an 'A, but would it go on an 1800? I know these are near as efficient as the modern Moss supercharger, but what do people think it would do for a 'B? Paul From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 9 16:04:17 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 15:04:17 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D29523A@kb1.mossmotors.com> Paul: It's a real nifty period piece for an MGA, but I wouldn't bother restoring it for use on a B. The vanes and bearings need to be completely gone through which takes some talent ($$) to do correctly. There is a reason that these can be found used in a box and not on the car that they were originally fitted to. Rebuilt, cleaned, painted and bolted to a nice stock looking MGA it would be really nice. It's a bit like finding an MGA twin cam head. You can make it fit on an MGB 1800 engine, but it's kind of a waste compared not to fitting it to a correct twin cam block in an original twin cam chassis. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Paul Root > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 2:51 PM > To: MGS LIST > Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger > > There's a Judson on ebay, auction no. 250201946628 > > It's for an 'A, but would it go on an 1800? > > I know these are near as efficient as the modern Moss > supercharger, but what do people think it would do for a 'B? > > Paul From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 9 16:13:45 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 18:13:45 EST Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger Message-ID: Yes, it will bolt onto an MGB - with suitable parts - it has been a long time since I did exactly this on a 3 main MGB engine and for instance, I think you might need to use the MGA front crank pulley, thinner than the MGB, plus you need a drip feed oiler he is missing (part of the valve cover) and the various brackets and pulley spacers. I doubt they eat up any more power than the Moss does. The results are modest as is the boost level (5.5 psi). They give you pretty much what you'd get with a somewhat (conventionally) tuned engine. It frankly isn't worth the fuss except as a rather neat period accessory for people to ooh and ahh at in shows. See _http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/pp1.htm_ (http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/pp1.htm) Bill (been there, done that, ho hum) In a message dated 1/9/2008 2:50:57 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, ptrmgb at gmail.com writes: There's a Judson on ebay, auction no. 250201946628 It's for an 'A, but would it go on an 1800? I know these are near as efficient as the modern Moss supercharger, but what do people think it would do for a 'B? From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 9 16:14:13 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 17:14:13 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger References: Message-ID: <032c01c85315$59c54be0$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Root" To: "MGS LIST" Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 4:50 PM Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger There's a Judson on ebay, auction no. 250201946628 It's for an 'A, but would it go on an 1800? I know these are near as efficient as the modern Moss supercharger, but what do people think it would do for a 'B? Paul _______________________________________________ Paul, oddly enough, there was just talk of Judson SC's on the Spridget list. The consensus of opinion on these things from those who have BTDT is that there is quite a problem with heat buildup when using them. Also, the power gain is not that great even on the tiny A motors and would, therefore, probably be even less on a larger B motor. I suppose you could overdrive one, but then the heat problem would be worse. If all you are looking for is more HP, there are cheaper, easier, more reliable ways to do it. Honestly, if I was going to add an SC, I would just get one of the new ones from Moss that are designed for your motor. YMMV Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 9 16:18:28 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 18:18:28 EST Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger Message-ID: You think? :-)) Bill (PS - it takes a LOT of work!) In a message dated 1/9/2008 3:04:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: It's a bit like finding an MGA twin cam head. You can make it fit on an MGB 1800 engine, From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 9 16:28:25 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 15:28:25 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295246@kb1.mossmotors.com> Yep. I know exactly how much work. btw. Comparing the efficiency of the Judson supercharger to the Eaton supercharger with vacuum controlled bypass as used in the Moss kit is like comparing a Ford 260 with a 4.6L 24V. Kelvin. ________________________________ From: WSpohn4 at aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4 at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 3:18 PM To: Dodd, Kelvin; ptrmgb at gmail.com; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger You think? :-)) Bill (PS - it takes a LOT of work!) In a message dated 1/9/2008 3:04:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: It's a bit like finding an MGA twin cam head. You can make it fit on an MGB 1800 engine, From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 9 16:38:52 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 18:38:52 EST Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger Message-ID: No offence meant - I understand your kit is very well engineered. There is nothing wrong with the Judson vane type in terms of efficiency, but you have vane friction to deal with and all sorts of other things that different design could relieve. I have also worked on Shorrock blowers and would say that they are a definite step up in design and quality. I don't know if you've been following a thread on the MGB site, but I gave you guys credit for having the ONLY bolt-on power getter that really works. That is because the flow in the cast iron MGB head absolutely sucks (no pun intended) and that is where any conventional tuning must start (except everyone always looks to the flashy stuff like bigger carbs etc.) - EXCEPT for the brute force method is shoving mixture in by force, that supercharging (or turbo) constitutes. It is probably the biggest increase in power per dollar you can find. Bill In a message dated 1/9/2008 3:27:58 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: btw. Comparing the efficiency of the Judson supercharger to the Eaton supercharger with vacuum controlled bypass as used in the Moss kit is like comparing a Ford 260 with a 4.6L 24V. From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 9 17:20:12 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 16:20:12 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295264@kb1.mossmotors.com> Bill: No offence taken. The engineering on the Eaton blowers takes much of the credit. A little while ago I got to drive an M65 blown Mazda Miata. It was pretty awesome, not really comparable to anything you can do with a Judson or Shorrock. There was so much torque, the tires would break loose at freeway speeds without downshifting. K. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of WSpohn4 at aol.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 3:39 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger > > No offence meant - I understand your kit is very well > engineered. There is nothing wrong with the Judson vane type > in terms of efficiency, but you have vane friction to deal > with and all sorts of other things that different design > could relieve. I have also worked on Shorrock blowers and > would say that they are a definite step up in design and quality. > > I don't know if you've been following a thread on the MGB > site, but I gave you guys credit for having the ONLY bolt-on > power getter that really works. > That is because the flow in the cast iron MGB head absolutely > sucks (no pun > intended) and that is where any conventional tuning must > start (except everyone always looks to the flashy stuff like > bigger carbs etc.) - EXCEPT for the brute force method is > shoving mixture in by force, that supercharging (or > turbo) constitutes. It is probably the biggest increase in > power per dollar you can find. > > Bill From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 9 17:27:22 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 19:27:22 EST Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger Message-ID: Ah - that is also a result of weight transfer. The guys sticking V8s in Miatas had lots of wheel spin - you can only get so much power to the road. The turbo Fiero, which is mid-engined, just digs in and goes, it doesn't spin very much at all. Which is why the big power LS2 transplants give much better results in the Fiero than the Solstice. Now just think of a blown Miata engine in an MGB.... In a message dated 1/9/2008 4:19:36 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: A little while ago I got to drive an M65 blown Mazda Miata. It was pretty awesome, not really comparable to anything you can do with a Judson or Shorrock. There was so much torque, the tires would break loose at freeway speeds without downshifting. From RampantNM at aol.com Wed Jan 9 17:31:12 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 19:31:12 EST Subject: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines Message-ID: Anyone ever buy magazine subscriptions on Ebay? Someone on one of the lists suggested it and I bought several in November, but have still not received any magazines. I sent emails to the sellers today, but haven't heard anything. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Jan 9 17:38:48 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 18:38:48 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295264@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <010a01c85321$2ea12cc0$6401a8c0@actualshop> << There was so much torque, the tires would break loose at freeway speeds without downshifting.>> Shoot, my poor little 2BBL 350 '70 El Camino does that at 85mph but does downshift!! Anon From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 9 17:42:34 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 16:42:34 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger In-Reply-To: <010a01c85321$2ea12cc0$6401a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295278@kb1.mossmotors.com> Ed: I didn't mean putting it into reverse. K. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of shop at justbrits.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 4:39 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger > > << There was so much torque, the tires would break loose at > freeway speeds without downshifting.>> > > Shoot, my poor little 2BBL 350 '70 El Camino does that at > 85mph but does downshift!! > > Anon From RampantNM at aol.com Wed Jan 9 17:47:31 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 19:47:31 EST Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger Message-ID: In a message dated 1/9/2008 3:51:13 PM Mountain Standard Time, ptrmgb at gmail.com writes: what do people think it would do for a 'B? Paul _______________________________________________ Cause you untold headaches and heartbreaks.... Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Jan 9 17:48:04 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 18:48:04 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295278@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <015a01c85322$75b838a0$6401a8c0@actualshop> <> Trust me Kelvin, it AIN'T reverse!! Got me and my buddies SERIOUS attention and car had 275s on the rear at the time!!!! From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 9 17:53:54 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 18:53:54 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines References: Message-ID: <037401c85323$4719c0d0$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; ; Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 6:31 PM Subject: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines Anyone ever buy magazine subscriptions on Ebay? Someone on one of the lists suggested it and I bought several in November, but have still not received any magazines. I sent emails to the sellers today, but haven't heard anything. Regards, Robert B. Houston ====================================== Well, forget it, I'm not giving you your money back. Anonymous From shop at justbrits.com Wed Jan 9 18:24:56 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 19:24:56 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger References: <032c01c85315$59c54be0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <01c201c85327$9c9a5890$6401a8c0@actualshop> Paul: As Larry said: <> And the HUGE consensus of the BTDT guys is that is must me on a bone stock re-build. Ed From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Jan 9 18:58:33 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 19:58:33 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295264@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295264@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: I briefly drove a Miata (a '99 I think) of my old boss. That thing was fast. Fortunately, I don't own that car. I'd be dead or in jail. :-) On Jan 9, 2008, at 6:20 PM, Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > Bill: > > No offence taken. The engineering on the Eaton blowers takes much of > the > credit. > > A little while ago I got to drive an M65 blown Mazda Miata. It was > pretty awesome, not really comparable to anything you can do with a > Judson or Shorrock. There was so much torque, the tires would break > loose at freeway speeds without downshifting. > > K. > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net >> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On >> Behalf Of WSpohn4 at aol.com >> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 3:39 PM >> To: mgs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger >> >> No offence meant - I understand your kit is very well >> engineered. There is nothing wrong with the Judson vane type >> in terms of efficiency, but you have vane friction to deal >> with and all sorts of other things that different design >> could relieve. I have also worked on Shorrock blowers and >> would say that they are a definite step up in design and quality. >> >> I don't know if you've been following a thread on the MGB >> site, but I gave you guys credit for having the ONLY bolt-on >> power getter that really works. >> That is because the flow in the cast iron MGB head absolutely >> sucks (no pun >> intended) and that is where any conventional tuning must >> start (except everyone always looks to the flashy stuff like >> bigger carbs etc.) - EXCEPT for the brute force method is >> shoving mixture in by force, that supercharging (or >> turbo) constitutes. It is probably the biggest increase in >> power per dollar you can find. >> >> Bill > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com '77 MGB '99 OBS From RampantNM at aol.com Wed Jan 9 21:06:51 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 23:06:51 EST Subject: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines Message-ID: Be nice Any Mouse, or I'll send another Hillary joke out... Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 9 21:11:24 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 22:11:24 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines References: Message-ID: <041c01c8533e$de125400$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: RampantNM at aol.com To: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net ; spridgets at autox.team.net ; midgetsprite at yahoo.com ; mgs at autox.team.net ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines Be nice Any Mouse, or I'll send another Hillary joke out... Regards, Robert B. Houston ========================= You still aren't getting your money back. I spent it on beer. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From zsmithbob at aol.com Wed Jan 9 22:46:23 2008 From: zsmithbob at aol.com (zsmithbob at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 00:46:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Swap Message-ID: <8CA216344B055B2-2A00-481@webmail-stg-d03.sysops.aol.com> John, It is not wise to override the lockout switch on the overdrive transmission. On some models, the OD works in 4th gear only, on others, it works in both 3rd and 4th. What you DO NOT WANT TO EVER DO is have it in O/D and go into reverse. That is why you really don't want to override/bypass the switch. It can cause damage...expensive damage. If enough pump pressure is developed in reverse (a function of RPM), it will destroy the sprag (a one-way clutch in the O/D unit) and could result in damage to the case. O/D in any orward gear would be OK, it's the reverse rotation issue that causes the trouble. The 80 B, I believe has O/D in 4th gear only. Earlier units 68-74 had O/D in 3rd and 4th, but those transmissions in an 80 model will give you speedometer error. You need an OD transmission with a Blue label. There is one in Atlanta if you are interested. Priced at 850, I can give you contact information. I needed a black label one for my '74. ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Jan 10 02:07:19 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:07:19 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap References: <010920081758.23870.47850B2D000A039200005D3E22135753330B0A0802080106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <011701c85368$67e8e6c0$0200a8c0@Three> If you get an OD from any 4-synch car i.e. any LH-type it should physically fit as the prop-shafts were the same length on all 4-synch OD and non-OD cars. If you get one from a rubber bumper car, with a blue Laycock label instead of a black, then the speedo ratio will be the same as yours. No 77 to 80 car had OD-specific wiring in the main harness as the manual switch was on the gear lever (and when OD-specific wiring *was* in the main harness it was yellow and not purple). Being an 80 you should have Transmission Controlled Spark Advance (TCSA) and the gearbox switch for that also controlled the OD, and limited it to 4th gear only. That is a function of your gearbox, not the OD. Unless you change internal components relating to the gear shift you won't get OD in 3rd as well as 4th, and I doubt many have done it. The TCSA gearbox switch should have a white going down to it from the fuel cut-off inertia switch, and a yellow/red coming off the other side going back into the gearbox harness up to the TCSA solenoid. Take a connection from the yellow/red to the manual switch on your gearlever, then from the other side of that to the solenoid. If you don't want to replace the gear lever you will have to provide a manual switch elsewhere, and run a wire up to it from the previously mentioned yellow/red, and back down again to the solenoid. You could save some of that by 'stealing' the TCSA wiring, but I'll leave that for the time being. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 5:58 PM Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap > If I get my hands on an overdrive transmission to swap into my 80B, how > easy is that? Other than having ot get the wiring harness and new > shifter, does it just swap in or are there different mounts, drive shaft, > etc? > > John Hed > 80 B-LE (non-OD!) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Jan 10 02:22:37 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:22:37 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Swap References: <8CA216344B055B2-2A00-481@webmail-stg-d03.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <018501c8536a$818b7be0$0200a8c0@Three> Not totally correct, which is why OD was limited to 3rd and 4th on the MGB. The lower the gear the higher the torque reversals inside the OD, and the stronger it has to be to resist them. Overpower it and you get slipping and glazing of the linings. Some cars with a stronger OD had OD in 2nd as well. Conversely the V8 with its higher torque reversals than the 4-cylinder was modified to restrict it to 4th only during its production run. North American spec cars from 77 to 80 were limited to 4th gear only for completely different reasons. That will damage the OD over time, but as said having OD engaged in reverse will destroy it much more quickly! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... O/D in any orward gear would be OK, it's the reverse rotation issue > that causes the trouble. From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Jan 10 04:51:23 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 06:51:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] "B" speedometer light bulbs Message-ID: <004301c8537f$1fa33200$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3> Good morning I'm doing a speedometer cable replacement on my 71 "B" and thought that this would be a perfect time to replace the anemic light bulb in the speedometer with a more modern bulb , any suggestions, any draw backs? From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Thu Jan 10 08:47:13 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:47:13 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control Message-ID: <48720d20801100747s530567b0ha6315c48be8ff3aa@mail.gmail.com> Great article by Mike Barnes of the St.Louis MG club in the latest MGB Driver on installing a cruise control. As an advocate of long trips in an MG, they are worth their weight in gold. I couldn't have done 18 hours form Pensacola to Downers Grove in my C without one. My son argued that it wasn't appropriate for an MG, but when we drove from Minneapolis to Portland, OR., he decided that it wasn't too bad an idea. When I gave up the C to him I tried several on the B with no luck. Then I ran into a club member at Gatlinburg who had an Audiovox, and followed his example. The Audiovox works great! Two things. The best price I found was on Amazon. I originally ordered from Whitney, but after the second back order I started looking around. Amazon beat their price by almost $45.00. Secondly, in all the literature and the units I looked at, the common assumption was that a four cylinder car does not have enough vacuum to run a vacuum driven cruise control which is probably why Mike put a vacuum chamber on his installation. In both my installation, and the one I copied, the Audiovox did not require a vacuum chamber to work! Having read all that literature that said it wasn't possible, I didn't believe it until I saw it with my own eyes and installation. I am making the assumption that Mike and I have the same unit. I don't know of any other model Audiovox cruise control, and the dash controls are the same. Thanks for a great article Mike, and thanks for the tip on using the tach lead for the speed control. The origional instructions I had didn't make that seem possible. I'll archive the article, and if anything goes wrong with the magnet sensor, I'll change. Jack From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Jan 10 05:53:09 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:53:09 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] "B" speedometer light bulbs References: <004301c8537f$1fa33200$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <022301c85387$d54505e0$0200a8c0@Three> One time Radio Shack 7.5w were recommended, but they are bit like a firework - bright but short lived. Halogen bulbs are also recommend in some quarters, but you have to be careful with those as they run much hotter and can cause damage, and are expensive at ten times the cost of standard bulbs. I've used multi-element LED bulbs which are a direct replacement. These are noticeably brighter than the originals in the speedo and tach at least (less so in the small gauges) and give a nicer blue-white light instead of the yellow tungsten, about twice the price of standard bulbs. More info at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_electricsframe.htm and click on 'Lighting' and 'Instrument Lighting'. But before spending any money check the rheostat (if you have one, some years have a simple on/off switch) as these can partially fail giving a dim glow although they still dim further to off when turned. Info on the above link. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net> To: "MG LIST" Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 11:51 AM Subject: [Mgs] "B" speedometer light bulbs > Good morning > > I'm doing a speedometer cable replacement on my 71 "B" and thought that > this > would be a perfect time to replace the anemic light bulb in the > speedometer > with a more modern bulb , any suggestions, any draw backs? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Jan 10 07:16:00 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 08:16:00 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re: Ebay Magazines In-Reply-To: <041c01c8533e$de125400$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <041c01c8533e$de125400$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <82C1EE64-0C96-4639-A9D7-3ED7C74EA0F7@gmail.com> Are we talking real beer or Miller/Bud/etc? Do politicians need any help, aren't they joke enough? On Jan 9, 2008, at 10:11 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: RampantNM at aol.com > To: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net ; spridgets at autox.team.net ; midgetsprite at yahoo.com > ;mgs at autox.team.net ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 10:06 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines > > Be nice Any Mouse, or I'll send another Hillary joke out... > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > ========================= > > You still aren't getting your money back. I spent it on beer. > > . > > > __,_._,___ From mgbob at juno.com Thu Jan 10 08:05:42 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 10:05:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap Message-ID: <20080110.101951.932.4.MGBOB@juno.com> Max, It's my understanding from guys in our club that the 3rd speed lockout can be over-ridden easily. Not having done this myself, I'll see if I can learn how this is accomplished. Bob On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 11:56:42 -0800 Max Heim writes: > How would you go about "disabling" the 3rd gear lockout? > > As far as I can tell it's a contact switch that only enables the OD > circuit > when the shifter is in 4th gear. It's exactly the same switch as the > reverse > lamp switch, only on the other side of the tranny case. > > I see how you could bypass it to allow OD in all 4 gears plus > reverse, but I > know that would not be a good idea. > > Please explicate. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires From RampantNM at aol.com Thu Jan 10 10:47:40 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:47:40 EST Subject: [Mgs] "B" speedometer light bulbs Message-ID: In a message dated 1/10/2008 4:49:47 AM Mountain Standard Time, 1971mgb at cox.net writes: I'm doing a speedometer cable replacement on my 71 "B" and thought that this would be a perfect time to replace the anemic light bulb in the speedometer with a more modern bulb , any suggestions, any draw backs? _______________________________________________ No personal experience, but severy folks on the spridget list say just cleaning the speedo resulted in better light. Radio shack had some 7.5 volt bulbs that would fit, and were much brighter, but they did not last long at 12 volts. LBCar Co. advertises some replacement bulbs, halogen I think? but they are quite pricey. I've been looking at the FLAPS and see blue LED bulbs for the rice racers and such and have wondered if I could add one or more of these to each instrument. I wouldn't mind the blue color as it would match the display on my modern radio. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From paul at ece.rochester.edu Thu Jan 10 10:48:32 2008 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:48:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: <20080110.101951.932.4.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080110.101951.932.4.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: Max, the 3rd speed switch is is series with the solenoid. you can jumper the switch wires or just wire the solenoid direct to the switch that you are going to be using . paul > Max, > It's my understanding from guys in our club that the 3rd speed lockout >can be over-ridden easily. Not having done this myself, I'll see if I >can learn how this is accomplished. >Bob > >On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 11:56:42 -0800 Max Heim >writes: >> How would you go about "disabling" the 3rd gear lockout? >> >> As far as I can tell it's a contact switch that only enables the OD >> circuit >> when the shifter is in 4th gear. It's exactly the same switch as the >> reverse >> lamp switch, only on the other side of the tranny case. >> >> I see how you could bypass it to allow OD in all 4 gears plus >> reverse, but I >> know that would not be a good idea. >> >> Please explicate. >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as paul at ece.rochester.edu > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Jan 10 12:43:45 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 20:43:45 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines References: Message-ID: <005301c853c1$1ca8d7c0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> For those who are able to be in the Netherlands near Amsterdam I have almost all issues 1990 - 2006 of the Dutch MG Car Club magazines on offer to be pciked up.... FWIW... Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; ; Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 1:31 AM Subject: [Mgs] Ebay Magazines > Anyone ever buy magazine subscriptions on Ebay? Someone on one of the > lists > suggested it and I bought several in November, but have still not received > any magazines. > > I sent emails to the sellers today, but haven't heard anything. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union > carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced > hands, > the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 10 13:32:25 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:32:25 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have a 1977 LH OD and 4-synchro box installed in my 66B, so I don't have a TCSA or gearshift-mounted switch. I installed a dash switch left of the steering wheel in an existing hole. But I thought that switch on the gearbox was a 4th gear contact switch. If not, what keeps the OD from being selectable in 1st & 2nd? -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/10/08 9:48 AM, Paul Osborne at paul at ece.rochester.edu wrote: > Max, the 3rd speed switch is is series with the solenoid. you can > jumper the switch wires or just wire the solenoid direct to the > switch that you are going to be using . > > paul > >> Max, >> It's my understanding from guys in our club that the 3rd speed lockout >> can be over-ridden easily. Not having done this myself, I'll see if I >> can learn how this is accomplished. >> Bob >> >> On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 11:56:42 -0800 Max Heim >> writes: >>> How would you go about "disabling" the 3rd gear lockout? >>> >>> As far as I can tell it's a contact switch that only enables the OD >>> circuit >>> when the shifter is in 4th gear. It's exactly the same switch as the >>> reverse >>> lamp switch, only on the other side of the tranny case. >>> >>> I see how you could bypass it to allow OD in all 4 gears plus >>> reverse, but I >>> know that would not be a good idea. >>> >>> Please explicate. >>> >>> >>> -- >>> >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >>> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires From jmc987 at verizon.net Thu Jan 10 17:12:56 2008 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (joseph cianciotti) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:12:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid Message-ID: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> Just wondering. How does one go about changing the brake fluid? Do you just bleed it it out of the system? And how do you know when you're done? Thanks in advance, Joseph 67 MGB Roadster From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Jan 10 18:38:17 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:38:17 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> Message-ID: It's actually pretty easy. You need a clear soda bottle, a turkey baster, some rubber hose (12"-18"), safety wire and some fresh brake fluid. Get some rubber hose that is just big enough to slip onto the bleed screws. Put one end into the bottle, with the end almost at the bottom of the bottle, say 1/4-1/2" off the bottom. Secure the hose to the bottle with safety wire (don't pinch the hose off) It is also handy to make a hook out of safety wire to hang the bottle from while bleeding. Use the turkey baster to suck out as much dirty fluid as possible from the master. Fill with fresh fluid. Go to the right rear, and attach the hose to the bleed screw. You want the hose to travel upward before it heads back down into the bottle. Open the bleed screw. Have your minion slowly pump the brake pedal until clear fluid is visible in the bottom on the bottle (don't worry, it's easy to tell). If you are fresh out of minions, you can leave the bleed screw open and go pump it yourself. Close the bleed screw and move to the other rear brake. Repeat Do the fronts the same way. Don't forget to top up the fluid every so often. Dispose of the old fluid properly. Hope this helps, Rick On Jan 10, 2008 4:12 PM, joseph cianciotti wrote: > Just wondering. How does one go about changing the brake fluid? Do > you just bleed it it out of the system? And how do you know when > you're done? Thanks in advance, > > Joseph > 67 MGB Roadster > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From mvrose at charter.net Thu Jan 10 18:49:29 2008 From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:49:29 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem Message-ID: <002901c853f4$351826c0$aa43ba44@Primary> I have an overdrive transmission on my 1980 MGB and when it is in neutral and the engine is running it produces a "roaring" noise. The noise appears to be coming from the front bearing on the transmission shaft. I do not believe it is coming from the throw out bearing because I installed a new throw out bearing and clutch approximately 2,400 miles ago when I did a complete restoration(towed the car home because it had not run for 14 years). In addition, when I down shift from 3rd to 2nd and if you do not shift just right it scraps reverse gear. Has anybody experienced these problems? I am in the process of removing the engine and will go thought the transmission at this time. Any advise would be appreciated. Merl Rosenthal 1980 MGB From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Thu Jan 10 18:45:52 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:45:52 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> Message-ID: <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> I personally recommend buying or borrowing an Eezibleed system. Just make sure that you let the tyre down to 10PSI before using it to pressurise the Eezibleed. However, use of Eezibleed is somewhat controversial on this list -- some people dislike them. Regards, Simon On 1/10/08, joseph cianciotti wrote: > Just wondering. How does one go about changing the brake fluid? Do > you just bleed it it out of the system? And how do you know when > you're done? Thanks in advance, From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 10 18:44:20 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:44:20 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: Message-ID: That's it. I just thought I'd point out that the turkey baster is optional -- you can just go ahead and bleed through all the old fluid, if you don't have one handy (or if SWMBO catches you in the kitchen). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/10/08 5:38 PM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote: > It's actually pretty easy. > You need a clear soda bottle, a turkey baster, some rubber hose (12"-18"), > safety wire and some fresh brake fluid. > Get some rubber hose that is just big enough to slip onto the bleed screws. > Put one end into the bottle, with the end almost at the bottom of the > bottle, say 1/4-1/2" off the bottom. Secure the hose to the bottle with > safety wire (don't pinch the hose off) It is also handy to make a hook out > of safety wire to hang the bottle from while bleeding. > Use the turkey baster to suck out as much dirty fluid as possible from the > master. > Fill with fresh fluid. > Go to the right rear, and attach the hose to the bleed screw. You want the > hose to travel upward before it heads back down into the bottle. Open the > bleed screw. > Have your minion slowly pump the brake pedal until clear fluid is visible in > the bottom on the bottle (don't worry, it's easy to tell). If you are fresh > out of minions, you can leave the bleed screw open and go pump it yourself. > Close the bleed screw and move to the other rear brake. Repeat > Do the fronts the same way. > Don't forget to top up the fluid every so often. > Dispose of the old fluid properly. > > Hope this helps, > Rick > > On Jan 10, 2008 4:12 PM, joseph cianciotti wrote: > >> Just wondering. How does one go about changing the brake fluid? Do >> you just bleed it it out of the system? And how do you know when >> you're done? Thanks in advance, >> >> Joseph >> 67 MGB Roadster From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Thu Jan 10 20:33:15 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:33:15 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <003501c85402$b43cf260$6401a8c0@XPS400> I recommend investing in some speedbleeders. They are one way valve bleeders that make it very easy to bleed brakes with one person. They are generally available in auto parts stores or on line from the manufacturer. I just used them to completely rebuild my MGB and I would never go back to the original bleeders.www.speedbleeder.com Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Matthews" To: "joseph cianciotti" Cc: Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 5:45 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid >I personally recommend buying or borrowing an Eezibleed system. Just > make sure that you let the tyre down to 10PSI before using it to > pressurise the Eezibleed. > > However, use of Eezibleed is somewhat controversial on this list -- > some people dislike them. > > Regards, > Simon From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jan 11 03:42:15 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 10:42:15 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive swap References: <20080110.101951.932.4.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <00ba01c8543e$b48cefe0$0200a8c0@Three> There *is* no 3rd gear switch. There is a '3rd and 4th gear switch' on earlier gearboxes and a '4th gear only' switch on later. Yes you can jumper it, but then if you forget it's on and reverse you will destroy the overdrive! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Max, the 3rd speed switch is is series with the solenoid. you can > jumper the switch wires or just wire the solenoid direct to the > switch that you are going to be using . From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 11 06:06:17 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 07:06:17 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: <003501c85402$b43cf260$6401a8c0@XPS400> References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net><40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> <003501c85402$b43cf260$6401a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: speedbleeders are absolutely the way to go!!!!! >I recommend investing in some speedbleeders. They are one way valve > bleeders that make it very easy to bleed brakes with one person. They are > generally available in auto parts stores or on line from the manufacturer. > I just used them to completely rebuild my MGB and I would never go back to > the original bleeders.www.speedbleeder.com > Ron From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 11 06:08:09 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 07:08:09 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <750B2BE753CE40329E8F1125DFEC1A47@garage.local> do not use ezibleed with silicone brake fluid. and, if you are really changing brake fluid, go with silicone. it is not hygroscopic and doesn't damage paint. uh oh. the use of silicon is somewhat controversial on this list -- some people dislike it. >I personally recommend buying or borrowing an Eezibleed system. Just > make sure that you let the tyre down to 10PSI before using it to > pressurise the Eezibleed. > > However, use of Eezibleed is somewhat controversial on this list -- > some people dislike them. > > Regards, From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jan 11 08:04:03 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 15:04:03 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> Message-ID: <00ad01c85465$06bae1c0$0200a8c0@Three> Simply open one bleeder at a time and pump the pedal until obviously clearer fluid comes out, topping-up the master as you go. Start with the longest circuit (should be left-hand rear on all cars) and work to the shortest (probably the drivers side, or whichever side the manifold on the inner wing is located). However dual circuit systems prevent you doing that as the 'other' circuit will prevent the pedal going down far enough to get a decent flow out of the open bleeder, so really you need to use something like an EeziBleed. Speedbleeders aren't required with pedal bleeding if you connect a tube to the bleeder and have the other end in some fluid in a jar, and not at all with EeziBleed. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Just wondering. How does one go about changing the brake fluid? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Jan 11 08:24:19 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 15:24:19 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem References: <002901c853f4$351826c0$aa43ba44@Primary> Message-ID: <00d001c85467$2171cd10$0200a8c0@Three> A throw-out bearing is more likely to be noisy when you push on the clutch pedal, especially if the noise is still there if you pull back on the clutch release arm to push the slave piston further into its bore (watch the clutch master doesn't overflow). Unfortunately you can't eliminate something just because it is relatively new, replacement parts are very unlikely to be as good as the originals, sadly. 'Scraps' reverse or 'scrapes' - there is a difference? There is only a spring-loaded detent limiting entry across the horizontal neutral position into the reverse up/down position, it is quite easily defeated if you change down with gusto, but then you have to back out of that part of neutral to the 1/2 vertical position before you can select 2nd. If you are saying reverse grinds as you are selecting 2nd, that sounds more like major problems inside the gearbox/selectors. But how do you know it is reverse that is scraping, and not simply 2nd grinding because of defective synchro? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I have an overdrive transmission on my 1980 MGB and when it is in neutral >and > the engine is running it produces a "roaring" noise. The noise appears to > be > coming from the front bearing on the transmission shaft. I do not believe > it > is coming from the throw out bearing because I installed a new throw out > bearing and clutch approximately 2,400 miles ago when I did a complete > restoration(towed the car home because it had not run for 14 years). In > addition, when I down shift from 3rd to 2nd and if you do not shift just > right > it scraps reverse gear. From jbaustian at cox.net Fri Jan 11 09:45:55 2008 From: jbaustian at cox.net (Jim Baustian) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 10:45:55 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive noise/Shifting problem Message-ID: <20725439-1922-45AA-BCCD-413BF40B0912@cox.net> A noise similar to what you describe proved to be a damaged lay gear in the 1979 OD gearbox purchased for our 77 MG Tourer. Jim Baustian From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 11 11:40:23 2008 From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:40:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: <750B2BE753CE40329E8F1125DFEC1A47@garage.local> References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> <750B2BE753CE40329E8F1125DFEC1A47@garage.local> Message-ID: Can someone remind me. What's the issue with using silicone brake fluid? I've used it for years in both my MGs without a single problem. Thanks,Tuck Southworth > From: sumton at sbcglobal.net> To: mgs at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 07:08:09 -0600> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid> > do not use ezibleed with silicone brake fluid. and, if you are really > changing brake fluid, go with silicone. it is not hygroscopic and doesn't > damage paint.> > uh oh. the use of silicon is somewhat controversial on this list -- some > people dislike it.> > > >I personally recommend buying or borrowing an Eezibleed system. Just> > make sure that you let the tyre down to 10PSI before using it to> > pressurise the Eezibleed.> >> > However, use of Eezibleed is somewhat controversial on this list --> > some people dislike them.> >> > Regards,> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > You are subscribed as tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com> > > Mgs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs> > http://www.team.net/archive From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Fri Jan 11 12:15:08 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 14:15:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: It could also be the pilot (spigot) bushing that is making the noise and if so it is nothing to worry about. Mark 73 MGBGT ----- Original Message ----- >I have an overdrive transmission on my 1980 MGB and when it is in neutral >and > the engine is running it produces a "roaring" noise. The noise appears to > be > coming from the front bearing on the transmission shaft. I do not believe > it > is coming from the throw out bearing because I installed a new throw out > bearing and clutch approximately 2,400 miles ago when I did a complete > restoration(towed the car home because it had not run for 14 years). In > addition, when I down shift from 3rd to 2nd and if you do not shift just > right > it scraps reverse gear. From doddk at mossmotors.com Fri Jan 11 12:32:34 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 11:32:34 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295585@kb1.mossmotors.com> Tuck: It's a religious argument and not one that can be resolved. After many years of answering the same question, I came up with the following responses: STATEMENT 1: No one has ever had issues directly related to running the original Lockheed/Girling/AP brake fluid. STATEMENT 2: There have been some compatibility/miscibility issues directly related to running some silicone (DOT5) fluids due to varying additive packages and or contamination. STATEMENT 3: Lockheed/Girling/AP brake fluid is a very effective paint stripper. STATEMENT 4: Silicone brake fluid will not damage paint. STATEMENT 5: All brake fluids regardless of type must be replaced on a regular basis to prevent component damage from moisture entrapment. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Tuck Southworth > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 10:40 AM > To: oliver; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid > > Can someone remind me. What's the issue with using silicone > brake fluid? > I've used it for years in both my MGs without a single problem. > Thanks,Tuck Southworth From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Jan 11 14:05:35 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:05:35 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> <003501c85402$b43cf260$6401a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: ::: Shrug::: If you use speedbleeders, and non-silicone fluid, you will want to have a hose and bottle to catch the fluid so that you don't wind up stripping the paint off of what the fluid hits. If you are using a hose and a bottle, all you have to do it have the hose run upward a bit, and the fluid in the hose preforms the same function as the speedbleeder. So what is the purpose of / need for the speedbleeders again? Rick On Jan 11, 2008 5:06 AM, oliver wrote: > speedbleeders are absolutely the way to go!!!!! > > >I recommend investing in some speedbleeders. They are one way valve > > bleeders that make it very easy to bleed brakes with one person. They > are > > generally available in auto parts stores or on line from the > manufacturer. > > I just used them to completely rebuild my MGB and I would never go back > to > > the original bleeders.www.speedbleeder.com > > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Jan 11 14:16:56 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 13:16:56 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Transmission noises 101 Makes a noise when your foot is on the clutch, but not otherwise: Throwout bearing or pilot bearing/bush. Apply light pressure to clutch pedal with the engine running. If the sound remains, it is the T/O. If the sound only shows up with the clutch pedal near the floor (fully disengaged) think pilot bearing / bush. Makes a noise in neutral with your foot off of the clutch: Possibly the T/O bearing, or first motion shaft bearing, or lay shaft bearings. To eliminate the T/O bearing get under the car while running and pull the clutch arm back away from the engine. If the noise remains it is not the T/O. See below for further fault tracing Makes a noise in neutral, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, but quiet in 4th: Lay shaft bearings. Makes a noise in neutral and all gears: First motion shaft bearing Makes a noise only while moving: Output shaft bearing, OD bearings, u-joint rear axle. Hope this helps Rick On Jan 11, 2008 11:15 AM, wrote: > It could also be the pilot (spigot) bushing that is making the noise and > if > so it is nothing to worry about. > > Mark > 73 MGBGT > > ----- Original Message ----- > >I have an overdrive transmission on my 1980 MGB and when it is in neutral > >and > > the engine is running it produces a "roaring" noise. The noise appears > to > > be > > coming from the front bearing on the transmission shaft. I do not > believe > > > it > > is coming from the throw out bearing because I installed a new throw out > > bearing and clutch approximately 2,400 miles ago when I did a complete > > restoration(towed the car home because it had not run for 14 years). In > > addition, when I down shift from 3rd to 2nd and if you do not shift just > > right > > it scraps reverse gear. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 11 15:12:24 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 16:12:24 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> <003501c85402$b43cf260$6401a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <001e01c8549f$0c54b3b0$800101df@garage.local> with speedbleeders you can open all four orifices, pump the brakes, and watch the old fluid go out. then close them individually as you get clear fluid out of each. easy. and they are like a couple bucks each. ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Ewald To: oliver Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 3:05 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid ::: Shrug::: If you use speedbleeders, and non-silicone fluid, you will want to have a hose and bottle to catch the fluid so that you don't wind up stripping the paint off of what the fluid hits. If you are using a hose and a bottle, all you have to do it have the hose run upward a bit, and the fluid in the hose preforms the same function as the speedbleeder. So what is the purpose of / need for the speedbleeders again? Rick On Jan 11, 2008 5:06 AM, oliver wrote: speedbleeders are absolutely the way to go!!!!! >I recommend investing in some speedbleeders. They are one way valve > bleeders that make it very easy to bleed brakes with one person. They are > generally available in auto parts stores or on line from the manufacturer. > I just used them to completely rebuild my MGB and I would never go back to > the original bleeders.www.speedbleeder.com > Ron _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Fri Jan 11 17:10:16 2008 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 19:10:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> <750B2BE753CE40329E8F1125DFEC1A47@garage.local> Message-ID: <47880568.3090401@tampabay.rr.com> No issue. I offer 43 years using it in my TD, 35 in my MGA and 25 years in my BGT. Replaced the master in the TD once. No wheeel cylinders in any of the others. Dave Houser Tuck Southworth wrote: >Can someone remind me. What's the issue with using silicone brake fluid? >I've used it for years in both my MGs without a single problem. >Thanks,Tuck Southworth > > > > > >>From: sumton at sbcglobal.net> To: mgs at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 >> >> >07:08:09 -0600> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid> > do not use ezibleed >with silicone brake fluid. and, if you are really > changing brake fluid, go >with silicone. it is not hygroscopic and doesn't > damage paint.> > uh oh. the >use of silicon is somewhat controversial on this list -- some > people dislike >it.> > > >I personally recommend buying or borrowing an Eezibleed system. >Just> > make sure that you let the tyre down to 10PSI before using it to> > >pressurise the Eezibleed.> >> > However, use of Eezibleed is somewhat >controversial on this list --> > some people dislike them.> >> > Regards,> >_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net >http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > You are subscribed as >tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com> > > Mgs at autox.team.net> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs> > http://www.team.net/archive >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Fri Jan 11 20:28:27 2008 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 22:28:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: <45E7DBC1-C9FA-47C7-8CCB-6129F8274664@verizon.net> <40b437200801101745l1f20d38bh91bd0a5628e84004@mail.gmail.com> <750B2BE753CE40329E8F1125DFEC1A47@garage.local> Message-ID: <000001c854cb$32388bc0$96a9a340$@com> Essentially, the main performance advantage most folks site is that DOT 5 fluid doesn't absorb water. While true, this also means any moisture which does get into the system will migrate to the lowest point in the system and collect as one slug of water. This can cause both corrosion issues as well as boiling point temperature problems. DOT 5 will also absorb air or other gasses more readily than 3 or 4, allowing higher compressibility (or spongy pedal). In the real world, as long as you regularly change the brake fluid, it should work fine. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tuck Southworth Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 1:40 PM To: oliver; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Changing brake fluid Can someone remind me. What's the issue with using silicone brake fluid? I've used it for years in both my MGs without a single problem. Thanks,Tuck Southworth From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Jan 12 03:56:25 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:56:25 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem References: Message-ID: <008f01c8550b$6dac2aa0$0200a8c0@Three> Would that still make a noise if the gearbox was in neutral and the clutch pedal released? I.e. the spigot bearing and the shaft turning at the same speed? Or only if the car was in gear with the clutch pedal down i.e. the bearing rotating but the shaft stationary? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > It could also be the pilot (spigot) bushing that is making the noise and > if > so it is nothing to worry about. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 11:41:58 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:41:58 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: <008f01c8550b$6dac2aa0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <008f01c8550b$6dac2aa0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: No it would not make a noise with the clutch pedal released. Rick On Jan 12, 2008 2:56 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Would that still make a noise if the gearbox was in neutral and the clutch > pedal released? I.e. the spigot bearing and the shaft turning at the same > speed? Or only if the car was in gear with the clutch pedal down i.e. the > bearing rotating but the shaft stationary? > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > It could also be the pilot (spigot) bushing that is making the noise and > > if > > so it is nothing to worry about. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From mgs at bonacker.us Sat Jan 12 07:30:55 2008 From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:30:55 GMT Subject: [Mgs] 2 MG's for sale Message-ID: <139e1b7d2a7042968c8d713c84af3a3c@ccfe46c390984eafbc61a473492edc0c> This comes from another list - "Would like to keep the 77 but they got to go. I have a 79 that has a little rust on the doglegs, trunk, hood but the floors are solid. drivers seat is wore out but not torn. very original down to the bl 8 track it has in it. the 77 is my sleeper." "i'm selling both for $1400. i am located in delaware" Read the rest at Scott '65 with potential, '73 donor, '77 driver From dwillner at ptd.net Sat Jan 12 15:42:05 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 17:42:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Luggage rack question References: <139e1b7d2a7042968c8d713c84af3a3c@ccfe46c390984eafbc61a473492edc0c> Message-ID: <000901c8556c$5b9f61e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Hi, I purchased a NOS luggage rack from an individual, Moss item 244-710, and they didn't have the 2 long 16" chrome mounting straps with the slight arch in them. Has anyone had any luck in locating a source or know where I could look for a pair? Or does anyone have an old rack with a pair they'd split? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From dannyvarnado at cox.net Sat Jan 12 20:28:19 2008 From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:28:19 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting Message-ID: <00af01c85594$5c207190$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Can anyone tell me the proper way to pipe up the valve cover vent and the crankcase vent on an MGB with no emissions parts? Thanks From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Jan 12 20:43:09 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 21:43:09 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting In-Reply-To: <00af01c85594$5c207190$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> References: <00af01c85594$5c207190$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <20080113034315.09A241879F2@autox.team.net> At 07:28 PM 1/12/2008 -0800, Danny Varnado wrote: >Can anyone tell me the proper way to pipe up the valve cover vent >and the crankcase vent on an MGB with no emissions parts? Yup. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cv101.htm On the rash assumption that you might have a PCV valve available, see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cv102.htm Barney Gayord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Jan 12 20:55:57 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:55:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting In-Reply-To: <00af01c85594$5c207190$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <746336.77145.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just read Barney's note and excellent site and appreciate all he wrote. Perhaps you can share a little advice this way. I am presently doing a valve job on my '70 B (with the '65 engine) and as I reassemble the car I think I will reinstall the gulp valve (I just plugged the manifold port earlier.) BUT I am spooked a bit in that it opens directly into the inlet manifold (read: huge potential for a vacuum leak). So I think to myself, "Why not just plug the pipe between the valve and the inlet manifold so it will 'look' correct but the manifold will be sealed." Yes, that will work but what to do with the crankcase fumes? The bottom end of my engine is nice and tight. I can place a finger over the crankcase vent hose with the engine running and feel no pressure at all. The guys I worked with before just attach a long-ish hose to the vent and port it down under the car claiming, "You don't want that oily crap going into your intake anyway." So I ask; What would you guys do? I have no emissions issues - legal or moral - so I'm thinking more from an automotive engineering standpoint. How do i handle the crankcase ventilation? regards, rick --- dannyvarnado wrote: > Can anyone tell me the proper way to pipe up the > valve cover vent and the > crankcase vent on an MGB with no emissions parts? > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jan 13 03:15:29 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 10:15:29 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem References: <008f01c8550b$6dac2aa0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <008d01c855ce$77a030b0$0200a8c0@Three> As I suspected. ----- Original Message ----- > No it would not make a noise with the clutch pedal released. > Rick > >> Would that still make a noise if the gearbox was in neutral and the >> clutch >> pedal released? I.e. the spigot bearing and the shaft turning at the >> same >> speed? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jan 13 03:34:04 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 10:34:04 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting References: <00af01c85594$5c207190$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <00b001c855d0$9230cf50$0200a8c0@Three> Which carbs? From October 68 the original SUs had breather ports coming off the top of the throats, connected to a Y-piece, and then piped to the front tappet chest cover. The rocker cover should have a vented oil filler cap fitted and any port on the back sealed off. Alternatively you can keep the sealed filler cap and put a small filter on the vent at the back. The former is neater and what was done to non-emissions cars, but the latter makes it more obvious what has been done. In the former case if the filler cap happened to be replaced with a non-breathing type there would no longer be any crankcase ventilation, just vacuum, which could increase oil burning and result in internal condensation and corrosion. Between Feb64 and Oct 68 a PCV valve was mounted on the inlet manifold to give the suction, and piped to the front cover or tappet chest cover. The rocker cover arrangements would be the same as above. But the PCV valve is troublesome, if you have the carbs with the breather ports that is a much better arrangement. But if you have carbs other than the SUs, like Webers, you will need a PCV valve anyway for proper ventilation. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Can anyone tell me the proper way to pipe up the valve cover vent and the > crankcase vent on an MGB with no emissions parts? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jan 13 03:41:02 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 10:41:02 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting References: <746336.77145.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00ca01c855d2$abd930d0$0200a8c0@Three> The gulp valve is used with the air pump to reduce back-firing on the overrun. No air pump - no gulp valve. Other than that the ventilation arrangements should be the same as before, unless you have removed the canister and other plumbing as well, in which case the suction side stays as before (PCV valve up to Oct 68, carb suction thereafter) and the inlet side uses either a vented oil filler cap and a sealed rocker cover vent, or the original oil filler cap and a filtered rocker cover vent. having open pipes dangling down beside the engine goes back to the non-positive ventilation used before Feb64, which can result in dust and moisture being sucked into the crankcase, and condensation and corrosion. If the engine and breather system are working properly there won't be any oily crap going into the engine. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I am presently doing a valve job on my '70 B (with the > '65 engine) and as I reassemble the car I think I will > reinstall the gulp valve ... From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Jan 13 07:13:02 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 06:13:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting In-Reply-To: <00ca01c855d2$abd930d0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <595699.5744.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Paul, as usual, you knowledge astounds! Here's some information that might help with your recommendation for MY car, not Danny's. Your previous note addresses that. My car is a '70 US-spec Tourer but under the bonnet, it is a bit of a Frankenstein's creature. The engine, I believe, is a '65 18GB. Here's the evidence for that call, but please share your opinion: + The carbs are AUD135F. Granted, the carbs could be anything but original. + The head casting - which also may not match the block - is casting #565394 which may have been used across the entire range of the species, so probably no help there. + The engine is set up for a generator, but now has an alternator installed. The car is (now) negative earth. + The starter is the Lucas M418G inertia engaged type. A starter solenoid has been added to the wheel-well. And here's the kicker that confines my prediction. + The valve cover has the riveted-on "MG" and "patent" plates. That's it Paul, the only evidence I have (from external observation) of the age of the engine. And of course, the engine number plate is missing. Now, to the crankcase ventilation; My earlier note contained errors (as may be usual). What I called a "gulp valve" is really the "crankcase emission valve". The bottom of the valve is plumbed to the inlet manifold. The side port of the valve connects to the hose from the forward lifter gallery cover. Paul, my worry is that the crankcase emission valve may not function as designed, allowing a vacuum leak to the crankcase, thereby leaning out the mixture. Yes, I have carefully rebuilt the valve and it looks good but 'looking good' and 'working correctly' are not the same thing. So the question becomes, if I effective plug the line from the cover to the valve, will the crankcase 'breathe' adequately at the stock filler cap? Best regards, Rick --- Paul Hunt wrote: > The gulp valve is used with the air pump to reduce > back-firing on the > overrun. No air pump - no gulp valve. Other than > that the ventilation > arrangements should be the same as before, unless > you have removed the > canister and other plumbing as well, in which case > the suction side stays as > before (PCV valve up to Oct 68, carb suction > thereafter) and the inlet side > uses either a vented oil filler cap and a sealed > rocker cover vent, or the > original oil filler cap and a filtered rocker cover > vent. having open pipes > dangling down beside the engine goes back to the > non-positive ventilation > used before Feb64, which can result in dust and > moisture being sucked into > the crankcase, and condensation and corrosion. If > the engine and breather > system are working properly there won't be any oily > crap going into the > engine. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > I am presently doing a valve job on my '70 B (with > the > > '65 engine) and as I reassemble the car I think I > will > > reinstall the gulp valve ... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jan 13 07:50:56 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:50:56 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting References: <595699.5744.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003101c855f3$c4b8fa10$0200a8c0@Three> Hi Rick - I did wonder after posting if you meant PCV rather than gulp valve. The problem with the PCV valve is that they *do* fail, but usually the problem is noticed more as high oil consumption being sucked through the valve due to the much higher vacuum in the crankcase. The restriction on the air inlet (filtered and restricted oil filler cap on non-emissions cars, restricted port on the rear of the rocker cover on emissions cars) will limit how much the faulty valve can weaken the mixture. Without a form of suction on the crankcase it won't be *through* ventilated, and that is what can result in internal condensation and corrosion, as well as fumes getting into the cabin. But sealing off just the suction port won't result in crankcase pressurisation to the point of blowing seals as is occasionally mentioned because the crankcase has originally *two* paths to the outside world - the filtered and restricted inlet as well as the suction port. Sealing just the suction port will allow normal crankcase pressure changes to be vented to the outside world perfectly safely, via the inlet as long as that is left open. Seal both at your peril, though. IMHO it is far better to have a PCV, and check it from time to time by monitoring the vacuum at the oil filler orifice, than do away with the PCV on the basis that it may, at some point in the future, fail. Cheers, Paul. ----- Original Message ----- > Paul, my worry is that the crankcase emission valve > may not function as designed, allowing a vacuum leak > to the crankcase, thereby leaning out the mixture. > Yes, I have carefully rebuilt the valve and it looks > good but 'looking good' and 'working correctly' are > not the same thing. > > So the question becomes, if I effective plug the > line from the cover to the valve, will the crankcase > 'breathe' adequately at the stock filler cap? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jan 13 08:23:29 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 15:23:29 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers Message-ID: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> Back in November 2007 a topic cropped up that appears from time to time, on just how many cars were equipped with overdrive for the North American market, opinion being that it was quite small. As well as wondering why this should be, I also wondered how it compared to the UK, where I'd have said overdrive was more the rule than the exception. I live quite close to BMIHT and enquired about access to the records and they said it would be possible, although I didn't really want to have to go through all half-million individual build records (although a few sample ones would be fun). It occurred to me that 18V engines had prefixes which indicated whether OD was fitted or not - presumably the engine/gearbox assembly was ordered and received as a complete unit, so all I really needed was records of the purchase orders for these from Abingdon to Engines branch. I *then* realised that the information had been staring me in the face all along, as it is included in Clausager in the Engine section. They make interesting reading. From November 1973 (when the engine number indicated whether OD was fitted or not) to the end of production there were 48,457 engines fitted to Home and non-North American export cars, of which fully 97% had overdrive (they were standard in Home market cars from the 77 model year onwards). For North America from August 71 (engines for this market were separately prefixed at an earlier date) of 186,542 engines only 17% had overdrive, which is a huge difference to other markets. There are other interesting differences. When Canada had its own engines from August 1975, and California from June 1976, more than 25% had overdrive, while in the same period the USA other than California only had 17%, another significant difference. Even odder, when Japan had Californian spec for the last few months of production, they were 100% equipped with overdrive. So why did so few North American cars have overdrive? And why did Canada and California have significantly more than the rest of the USA? Full figures at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_gearsframe.htm and click on 'Overdrive - How popular was it?" PaulH. From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sun Jan 13 09:31:02 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 10:31:02 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <20080113163113.D2B291879C9@autox.team.net> At 03:23 PM 1/13/2008 +0000, Paul Hunt wrote: >.... >So why did so few North American cars have overdrive? Price competition is a big thing in the USA, and I must admit the public is somewhat gullible to pricing tricks. If the base sticker prrice is $50 more that a competitor vehicle, it's sort of screwed in mass marketing. So lots of features that may be standard equipment in other parts of the world are separated out and listed as options here. Gasoline here was around $0.25/gallon in the 60's, sometimes cheaper during "gas wars". It didn't hit $0.60/gallon until the oil shortage in the mid 70's. With cheap fuel available the buyers were making the value judgement between saving perhaps $0.0015/mile on fuel cost or paying up font an additional 2% for the purchase price of the car. >And why did Canada and California have significantly more than the >rest of the USA? >.... A little speculation: In Canada fuel was a bit more expensive, and public attitude and constructive pricing may have been different. California (with very little mass transit) may have a larger proportion of long distance commuting for the average resident. Just a guess. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sun Jan 13 10:17:13 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 11:17:13 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting In-Reply-To: <595699.5744.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <00ca01c855d2$abd930d0$0200a8c0@Three> <595699.5744.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080113171725.0192C187AB7@autox.team.net> At 06:13 AM 1/13/2008 -0800, Rick Lindsay wrote: >.... for MY car, not Danny's. .... > >.... The engine, I believe, is a '65 18GB. .... >.... >.... What I called a "gulp valve" is really the "crankcase emission >valve". The bottom of the valve is plumbed to the inlet >manifold. The side port of the valve connects to the hose from the >forward lifter gallery cover. I have ony good things to say about the PCV valve. I wish I had one on my MGA, but alas I am either too cheap or too lazy to make the modification. It is a neat gadget that does nice things and is generally quite reliable. The functional description is "vacuum regulated flow control valve". It connects the crankcase to the inlet manifold to positively ventilate the crankcase to keep it clean inside and burn emissions fumes. In the process it generates and regulates a small vacuum in the crankcase that greatly reduces oil leakage and may totally eliminate dribbles under your car. >.... > So the question becomes, if I effective plug the line from the > cover to the valve, will the crankcase 'breathe' adequately at the > stock filler cap? >.... No. If you block off the inlet port to the PCV valve it stops all air flow there, same as removing the valve and plugging ports in the inlet manifold and front tappet cover. That would defeat crankcase ventillation, allowing buildup of water vapor and certain acids and soot in the crankcase, resulting in rapid accumulation of sludge in the oil and crud all over the inside of the engine. One indication of inadequate crankcase ventillation is accumulation of condensed water and oil emulsion in the valve cover, looking like dirty mayonase. Blocked valve cover port also builds a slight pressure in the crankcase forcing crankcase blow-by gasses to escape via the valve cover vent. That can leave oily deposits on the valve cover at the same time the engine is dribbling oil on the floor. If it was mine, I'd keep the PCV valve functional. If the rubber diaphragm should leak for any reason, the valve remains closed similar to being plugged, or having the ports plugged (see prior paragraph). It is a very simple task to R&R the wire clip on top of the valve for cleaning or replacement of the rubber diaphragm. If the valve should ever get stuck open you get excess vacuum in the crankcase, resulting in excess oil consumption and possible bad idle condition. Even then it is an easy task to disassemble the valve for cleaning. When the PCV valve is working properly, they very seldom fail. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Jan 13 11:17:13 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 12:17:13 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <20080113163113.D2B291879C9@autox.team.net> References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> <20080113163113.D2B291879C9@autox.team.net> Message-ID: People still don't give a rip about gas milage in the US. Sure, there are a few that will knee jerk buy a smaller car (truck) when gas spikes, but 6 months later, they can't stand having something so small (Ford 500) and trade it in for a full size pickup (true story). I doubt the back of that pick up has seen anything other than a cooler of beer. Look at all the remote car starters and people leaving their car idling when going in to the convenience shop. Many will even leave their car running when filling the tank unless the person behind the counter yells at them. With my DD in the driveway and never seeing the garage, I thought about a remote starter (for remote locks as much as anything). But I ended up with a block heater and a heated seat pad instead. On Jan 13, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Barney Gaylord wrote: > > Gasoline here was around $0.25/gallon in the 60's, sometimes cheaper > during "gas wars". It didn't hit $0.60/gallon until the oil shortage > in the mid 70's. With cheap fuel available the buyers were making > the value judgement between saving perhaps $0.0015/mile on fuel cost > or paying up font an additional 2% for the purchase price of the car. Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com '77 MGB '99 OBS From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Jan 13 12:52:04 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 11:52:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <38193.29886.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Paul, there's also the urban legend that high octane fuel equals high power. Many people run their 89-octane-designed cars on 93 octane fuel, at 20-30 cents a gallon more, expecting superior performance. There's also a belief amoung some, that 93 octane fuel is more "pure" than 89 octane - which is exactly the opposite of reality. And you're right. Given the relatively cheap fuel prices here (compared to the rest of the 1st world), we just fill 'er up and drive. I've seen people start their V8 Buick and drive 800 feet to their mailbox! Okay, I saw one fat woman do that. :-P And to further support your cause; My M-B C300 gets 20mpg, the Ferrari gets 17mpg if I am careful, 15 if typical and our Land Rover gets 13mpg city, 13mpg highway. :-) Our MGB gets no miles per gallon as it is up on jack stands. :-P rick --- Paul Root wrote: > People still don't give a rip about gas milage in > the US. Sure, there > are a few that will knee jerk buy a smaller car > (truck) when gas > spikes, but 6 months later, they can't stand having > something so small > (Ford 500) and trade it in for a full size pickup > (true story). I > doubt the back of that pick up has seen anything > other than a cooler > of beer. > > Look at all the remote car starters and people > leaving their car > idling when going in to the convenience shop. Many > will even leave > their car running when filling the tank unless the > person behind the > counter yells at them. > > With my DD in the driveway and never seeing the > garage, I thought > about a remote starter (for remote locks as much as > anything). But I > ended up with a block heater and a heated seat pad > instead. > > > On Jan 13, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Barney Gaylord wrote: > > > > > Gasoline here was around $0.25/gallon in the 60's, > sometimes cheaper > > during "gas wars". It didn't hit $0.60/gallon > until the oil shortage > > in the mid 70's. With cheap fuel available the > buyers were making > > the value judgement between saving perhaps > $0.0015/mile on fuel cost > > or paying up font an additional 2% for the > purchase price of the car. > > Paul Root > ptrmgb at gmail.com > '77 MGB > '99 OBS From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Jan 13 13:07:36 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 12:07:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <20080113163113.D2B291879C9@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Here in the States, higher octane fuel is marketed with appealing names like "Super" or "High Test" or "Power blend", all trying to entice the buyer to press the 93 button when the car is designed for 89 octane. Its aggressive marketing - and it works. There's another issue; America is B_I_G with a lot of space between things. Hell, Texas alone is bigger than Western Europe! What I'm saying is that you would think that economy would be the key issue since the distances are greater - but it isn't. We just have a long way to go to get anywhere. Another issue; We have all-but-no mass transit anywhere in the US except the industrial north-east. We have to get in a car to get anywhere. And a final point; Many cities now have no sidewalks in the more rural areas. Walking is passively discouraged. Cycling is dangerous because of the intolerance of drivers, so few people choose that option. We are a nation on wheels. Good or bad, its in our blood. rick From 1971mgb at cox.net Sun Jan 13 13:35:06 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 15:35:06 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] speedometer cable Message-ID: <000c01c85623$c88d0bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3> I just replaced the speedometer cable on the "B" what a pain in the you know what it was to attach the cable at the transmission, I have a LH (Blue label) overdrive and of course the attachment for the cable is nearly impossible to get at, the transmission had a 90 degree angle drive when I started working, by the time I finished I wound up taking the 90 degree drive off and running the cable directly into the transmission, my question is , will I be looking for problems (short life span ) on my new cable because I took the 90 degree drive off?, I thought I read recently that on overdrive transmissions no 90 degree drive is required. Thanks in advance for your input. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Sun Jan 13 13:44:11 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 15:44:11 EST Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers Message-ID: We call them They even say that they know their engine doesn't need it but they want to give it 'treat' once in awhile. idiots around here...:-) Know what? It extends to people that really should know better - racers. I've seen bunches of them filling up with 115 at the track when their engines have 11:1 and would probably run on 94. They think it is somehow 'racier'. Bill In a message dated 13/01/2008 11:52:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, rolindsay at yahoo.com writes: Paul, there's also the urban legend that high octane fuel equals high power. Many people run their 89-octane-designed cars on 93 octane fuel, at 20-30 cents a gallon more, expecting superior performance. There's also a belief amoung some, that 93 octane fuel is more "pure" than 89 octane - which is exactly the opposite of reality. From rocknatural at gmail.com Sun Jan 13 13:50:59 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:50:59 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <478A79B3.5010402@gmail.com> Rick Lindsay wrote: > Here in the States, higher octane fuel is marketed > with appealing names like "Super" or "High Test" or > "Power blend", all trying to entice the buyer to press > the 93 button when the car is designed for 89 octane. > Its aggressive marketing - and it works. I have been advised that this is not good for your engine. The higher octane fuels burn cooler and running too high an octane can result in unwanted deposits accumulating in the combustion chamber. -The Roxter -- From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Jan 13 15:05:16 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:05:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <000c01c85623$c88d0bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <277621.47975.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Is the right-angle drive a 1:1 ratio? rick --- 1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote: > I just replaced the speedometer cable on the "B" > what a pain in the you know > what it was to attach the cable at the transmission, > I have a LH (Blue label) > overdrive and of course the attachment for the cable > is nearly impossible to > get at, the transmission had a 90 degree angle drive > when I started working, > by the time I finished I wound up taking the 90 > degree drive off and running > the cable directly into the transmission, my > question is , will I be looking > for problems (short life span ) on my new cable > because I took the 90 degree > drive off?, I thought I read recently that on > overdrive transmissions no 90 > degree drive is required. > Thanks in advance for your input. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Jan 13 15:07:41 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:07:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <77109.80109.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> It is silly. I guess I have to admit, it is their money and if they want to spend it that way, its their call. Hell, the same guys probably pay-per-view for WWF! :-P rick --- WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > We call them They even say that they know their > engine doesn't need it but > they want to give it 'treat' once in awhile. idiots > around here...:-) > > Know what? It extends to people that really should > know better - racers. > I've seen bunches of them filling up with 115 at the > track when their engines > have 11:1 and would probably run on 94. They think > it is somehow 'racier'. > > Bill > > In a message dated 13/01/2008 11:52:27 A.M. Pacific > Standard Time, > rolindsay at yahoo.com writes: > > Paul, there's also the urban legend that high > octane > fuel equals high power. Many people run their > 89-octane-designed cars on 93 octane fuel, at 20-30 > cents a gallon more, expecting superior performance. > > There's also a belief amoung some, that 93 octane > fuel > is more "pure" than 89 octane - which is exactly > the > opposite of reality. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Jan 13 15:10:22 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 14:10:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <478A79B3.5010402@gmail.com> Message-ID: <636330.93303.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I don't know if it can damage the engine but it certainly does no good. rick --- The Roxter wrote: > Rick Lindsay wrote: > > Here in the States, higher octane fuel is marketed > > with appealing names like "Super" or "High Test" > or > > "Power blend", all trying to entice the buyer to > press > > the 93 button when the car is designed for 89 > octane. > > Its aggressive marketing - and it works. > I have been advised that this is not good for your > engine. The higher octane fuels burn cooler and > running too high an octane can result in unwanted > deposits accumulating in the combustion chamber. > > -The Roxter From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 13 18:10:42 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 17:10:42 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: My guess is that US dealers ordered them without OD to keep the price down, since they were already relatively expensive compared to smaller domestic cars. Buyers in California and Canada were savvy enough to specifically order OD, knowing the wide open spaces they would encounter. Other western US states probably did not import nearly as many as California, and buyers in the eastern states where MGs first became popular used them on backroads, not interstates. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/13/08 7:23 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > Back in November 2007 a topic cropped up that appears from time to time, on > just how many cars were equipped with overdrive for the North American > market, opinion being that it was quite small. As well as wondering why > this should be, I also wondered how it compared to the UK, where I'd have > said overdrive was more the rule than the exception. I live quite close to > BMIHT and enquired about access to the records and they said it would be > possible, although I didn't really want to have to go through all > half-million individual build records (although a few sample ones would be > fun). It occurred to me that 18V engines had prefixes which indicated > whether OD was fitted or not - presumably the engine/gearbox assembly was > ordered and received as a complete unit, so all I really needed was records > of the purchase orders for these from Abingdon to Engines branch. I *then* > realised that the information had been staring me in the face all along, as > it is included in Clausager in the Engine section. > > They make interesting reading. From November 1973 (when the engine number > indicated whether OD was fitted or not) to the end of production there were > 48,457 engines fitted to Home and non-North American export cars, of which > fully 97% had overdrive (they were standard in Home market cars from the 77 > model year onwards). For North America from August 71 (engines for this > market were separately prefixed at an earlier date) of 186,542 engines only > 17% had overdrive, which is a huge difference to other markets. There are > other interesting differences. When Canada had its own engines from August > 1975, and California from June 1976, more than 25% had overdrive, while in > the same period the USA other than California only had 17%, another > significant difference. Even odder, when Japan had Californian spec for the > last few months of production, they were 100% equipped with overdrive. > > So why did so few North American cars have overdrive? And why did Canada > and California have significantly more than the rest of the USA? > > Full figures at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_gearsframe.htm and click on > 'Overdrive - How popular was it?" > > PaulH. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 13 18:15:25 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 17:15:25 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <000c01c85623$c88d0bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: Removing the right-angle adapter won't hurt anything, directly. However, on my 66B with late tranny and OD the cable is forced to make a tight turn around the crossmember, which seems to cause rapid cable wear, judging from how long the new cable lasted before the speedo started reading jerky again. YMMV. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/13/08 12:35 PM, 1971-red-mgb at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote: > I just replaced the speedometer cable on the "B" what a pain in the you know > what it was to attach the cable at the transmission, I have a LH (Blue label) > overdrive and of course the attachment for the cable is nearly impossible to > get at, the transmission had a 90 degree angle drive when I started working, > by the time I finished I wound up taking the 90 degree drive off and running > the cable directly into the transmission, my question is , will I be looking > for problems (short life span ) on my new cable because I took the 90 degree > drive off?, I thought I read recently that on overdrive transmissions no 90 > degree drive is required. > Thanks in advance for your input. From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sun Jan 13 20:30:40 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 19:30:40 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20080113163113.D2B291879C9@autox.team.net> <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <40b437200801131930h3dc32021xd560cdc84fac35c1@mail.gmail.com> On Jan 13, 2008 12:07 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote: > Here in the States, higher octane fuel is marketed > with appealing names like "Super" or "High Test" or > "Power blend", all trying to entice the buyer to press > the 93 button when the car is designed for 89 octane. > Its aggressive marketing - and it works. Many years ago, I was told by some engine designers at Ford UK that engines produce *more* power under light knock conditions. Add to this the fact that the higher octane fuels have *less* energy per gallon and people whose cars don't need (or adapt to) higher octane fuels are just throwing money away. Thinking about it now, it seems that the more power under light knock might be due to either: more advanced timing (producing knock), or higher energy (lower octane) fuel. Regards, Simon From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Jan 13 20:36:52 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 21:36:52 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Judson Supercharger In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478AD8D4.3050608@ktc.com> I had one on an A. Also had one on a Corvair Corsa. Lots of early boost. NO good for long running. Vanes heated up and lost boost. CR Paul Root wrote: > There's a Judson on ebay, auction no. 250201946628 > > It's for an 'A, but would it go on an 1800? > > I know these are near as efficient as the modern Moss supercharger, > but what do people think it would do for a 'B? > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Jan 13 20:45:42 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 21:45:42 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: <48720d20801100747s530567b0ha6315c48be8ff3aa@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d20801100747s530567b0ha6315c48be8ff3aa@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <478ADAE6.6070008@ktc.com> What a wimp! I have driven from TX to N CA and back without a CC in a MGB Roadster. Geeze, Cruise Control? Lock throttle cable at 3800 rpm and go on!! From eric at erickson.on.net Mon Jan 14 01:46:41 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 19:16:41 +1030 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 14/01/2008, at 7:14 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > We call them They even say that they know their engine doesn't > need it but > they want to give it 'treat' once in awhile. idiots around > here...:-) > > Know what? It extends to people that really should know better - > racers. > I've seen bunches of them filling up with 115 at the track when > their engines > have 11:1 and would probably run on 94. They think it is somehow > 'racier'. > > My engine is high compression (over 12:1) but I can putter about on 95 octane "Premium" ULP as long as I avoid putting the engine under any significant load. Try climbing a decent hill or accelerating a little too rapidly and it sounds like you have dropped a handful of nuts and bolts down the carby. Nasty for a "street" car. On the track I have a permit to run the car on high octane (and high lead) AVGAS (or "BP Racing Fuel") 105-110+ Octane - if I didn't then I wouldn't have an engine for too long pushing the thing at 6000+ revs for periods of time (and with my foot pushed to the floor for much of the time). I did experiment with my own high octane juice by adding small amounts of tolulene to a "premium" fuel but I never quite got it "right" and I hated the smell - it was like you were running on nail polish remover. Here is one of the many recommendations for a tolulene mix (the first that comes up in Google): http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=76638 But yes, I have seen quite a few others ooohing and ahhhing at my use of this "rocket fuel" called AVGAS and I have seen them take it up to try and copy my track speed/acceleration. The problem is they have "standard" or even low compression engines and spending the exhorbitant amount they charge for AVGAS may make them feel special and it does make their cars smell like race cars (some old race cars) but of course it does them little actual good at all. The only thing I have heard in favour of running AVGAS in non-high compression cars is that it is supposed to be of a higher consistent quality because they don't like planes falling out of the sky from a bad batch of fuel. Maybe that makes them feel better as they empty their wallets. I use it because I have to - but it was the last requirement in line as the engine was built (I use AVGAS for my engine, I didn't build my engine to use AVGAS, as such). Overdrive? One day I may invest in one of those. Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 01:52:08 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:52:08 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting References: <00ca01c855d2$abd930d0$0200a8c0@Three> <595699.5744.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007501c8568a$fffaa0f0$0200a8c0@Three> Better than nothing at all, but nowhere near as reliable as carb sourced ventilation. ----- Original Message ----- > I have ony good things to say about the PCV valve. I wish I had one > on my MGA, but alas I am either too cheap or too lazy to make the > modification. It is a neat gadget that does nice things and is > generally quite reliable. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 01:45:58 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:45:58 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: <20080113163113.D2B291879C9@autox.team.net> <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <40b437200801131930h3dc32021xd560cdc84fac35c1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <007401c8568a$ffe06230$0200a8c0@Three> A given octane of fuel will produce the most power safely just short of knocking. It may produce a bit more with light knocking but personally I wouldn't go that far. Reduce the octane and knocking increases for a given rpm, throttle opening and load which is why timing has to be retarded for lower octane fuel. That reduces performance and increases running temperatures. When manufacturers advised a certain timing setting not only did it take that into account, but it also took account of the tolerances of various components that will result in knocking under the same conditions for different engines, but it also included a safety factor. That is why some engines can safely be run with more advance than recommended, giving better performance and economy, and some can't. Over the years I've experienced both. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Thinking about it now, it seems that the more power under light knock > might be due to either: more advanced timing (producing knock), or > higher energy (lower octane) fuel. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 02:07:50 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 09:07:50 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <478A79B3.5010402@gmail.com> Message-ID: <00d101c8568d$1a24dca0$0200a8c0@Three> The MGB was *intended* to use the higher octane fuel, which converts more energy to forward motion and less to waste heat. ----- Original Message ----- > The higher octane fuels burn cooler and running too high an octane can > result in unwanted deposits accumulating in the combustion chamber. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 02:04:36 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 09:04:36 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: Message-ID: <00d001c8568d$1a0371f0$0200a8c0@Three> Too much advance then. ----- Original Message ----- > My engine is high compression (over 12:1) but I can putter about on > 95 octane "Premium" ULP as long as I avoid putting the engine under > any significant load. Try climbing a decent hill or accelerating a > little too rapidly and it sounds like you have dropped a handful of > nuts and bolts down the carby. Nasty for a "street" car. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 01:55:11 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:55:11 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] speedometer cable References: <000c01c85623$c88d0bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <00cd01c8568d$19a8ced0$0200a8c0@Three> If you remove the right-angle drive you really should fit a slightly longer cable to increase the radius of the curve that has been introduced. Right-angle drives *are* 1:1, and their output is in the same direction as the input. LHD cars had two of these drives - one at either end, RHD cars only had one. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > .. I wound up taking the 90 degree drive off and running > the cable directly into the transmission, my question is , will I be > looking > for problems (short life span ) on my new cable because I took the 90 > degree > drive off? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 02:20:28 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 09:20:28 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> There's been quite a shift in perception since, then, and that must have been the view for the whole of MGB production i.e. nigh-on 20 years. From what I hear from that side of the pond now the common view now is that overdrive is a very good thing for driver comfort and for the engine. The fuel issue is barely mentioned, in fact it is often said that overdrive makes no difference to mileage. I don't believe that to be the case, by the very fact that the engine is turning slower and giving less bangs per mile and per minute you must be using less fuel, unless you have to drive with a larger throttle opening to maintain a given speed in OD 4th as straight 4th, which certainly isn't the case on any MGB I have driven. If one accepts that you get better mileage in 3rd and 4th, one must also accept that one gets around half that improvement in OD 4th compared to 4th. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Gasoline here was around $0.25/gallon in the 60's, sometimes cheaper > during "gas wars". It didn't hit $0.60/gallon until the oil shortage in > the mid 70's. With cheap fuel available the buyers were making the value > judgement between saving perhaps $0.0015/mile on fuel cost or paying up > font an additional 2% for the purchase price of the car. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 02:12:43 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 09:12:43 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: <38193.29886.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00e301c8568f$33f20430$0200a8c0@Three> For the same timing setting on our cars there is indeed no benefit to be gained by using a higher octane fuel. But if you *do* use a higher octane, you can advance the timing and that *does* give you the benefit of more performance and better economy. Many modern high-performance cars use knock-sensing to continually fine-tune the timing and they also get better performance out of higher octane fuels, but automatically. Others running on fixed maps will not get any benefit. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Paul, there's also the urban legend that high octane > fuel equals high power. Many people run their > 89-octane-designed cars on 93 octane fuel, at 20-30 > cents a gallon more, expecting superior performance. From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Mon Jan 14 05:05:37 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 06:05:37 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: <478ADAE6.6070008@ktc.com> References: <48720d20801100747s530567b0ha6315c48be8ff3aa@mail.gmail.com> <478ADAE6.6070008@ktc.com> Message-ID: <48720d20801140405p1e76b010t50ad6c97b06df80@mail.gmail.com> Charley, How many consecutive hours did you drive? BTW, didn't your mother tell you not to call names and that rude is never funny? We usually avoid that on this list. Jack On Jan 13, 2008 9:45 PM, Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > > What a wimp! I have driven from TX to N CA and back without a CC in > a MGB Roadster. Geeze, Cruise Control? Lock throttle cable at 3800 rpm > and go on!! From rolindsay at yahoo.com Mon Jan 14 06:44:26 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 05:44:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting In-Reply-To: <007501c8568a$fffaa0f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <411014.86587.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Paul, if you mean that the crankcase vent is connected to the atmosphere side of the air cleaner, I agree. Yea, it can goober up the carb with oil but the vacuum applied is acceptable AND always on the atmosphere side of the venturi. For my car, I'll just replumb it back to the way it was designed and see if the engine behaves. I have installed a vacuum port on the inlet manifold so I can connect my meter. I may be able to detect the valve's operation there. rick --- Paul Hunt wrote: > Better than nothing at all, but nowhere near as > reliable as carb sourced > ventilation. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > I have ony good things to say about the PCV valve. > I wish I had one > > on my MGA, but alas I am either too cheap or too > lazy to make the > > modification. It is a neat gadget that does nice > things and is > > generally quite reliable. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From WSpohn4 at aol.com Mon Jan 14 07:27:33 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 09:27:33 EST Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers Message-ID: And just because you have knock sensing doesn't mean that the car will automatically advance until it hears knock. It will more likely only advance until a preset (by the ECM) limit even if further advance over that would have produced more power. To take advantage of further advance would require a different chip or reflashing the PROM. Lots of guys with modern management systems don't grasp that distinction. Bill In a message dated 14/01/2008 1:48:18 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: Many modern high-performance cars use knock-sensing to continually fine-tune the timing and they also get better performance out of higher octane fuels, but automatically. Others running on fixed maps will not get any benefit. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 07:27:18 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 14:27:18 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve cover/crankcase venting References: <411014.86587.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006501c856bb$4ed16d00$0200a8c0@Three> No not the pre-PCV system but post PCV system where ports on the carbs between the butterfly and the piston provided a relatively constant low-level of vacuum. I doubt you will detect operation of the valve at the inlet manifold - unless it is faulty and stuck wide open! With the engine running it will be constantly open but only slightly, the only variation being it will be open a bit more at wider throttle openings to achieve much the same relatively constant but low level vacuum in the crankcase of the later system. The best way to check the operation of the valve is to look for suction or vacuum on the crankcase side of the valve, but it is only going to be a couple of in. Hg. so may not register on a gauge. The easiest way is to put the palm of your hand or a sheet of paper across the open oil filler orifice and it should be sucked gently down. It should also cause a slight change in engine idle as you remove and replace the oil filler cap, even a ventilated one. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Paul, if you mean that the crankcase vent is > connected to the atmosphere side of the air cleaner, I > agree. Yea, it can goober up the carb with oil but > the vacuum applied is acceptable AND always on the > atmosphere side of the venturi. > > For my car, I'll just replumb it back to the way it > was designed and see if the engine behaves. I have > installed a vacuum port on the inlet manifold so I can > connect my meter. I may be able to detect the valve's > operation there. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jan 14 07:50:19 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 14:50:19 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Knock and timing, was Overdrive Numbers References: Message-ID: <007b01c856bd$69b5d0f0$0200a8c0@Three> In that case it is a safety or emissions feature to *retard* timing from a planned map, i.e. the performance is unchanged between different octane fuels - as long as pinking doesn't occur. The ones that gain benefit from higher octane fuels do *advance* the ignition over and above a planned map in small steps until pinking is encountered, than back it off more rapidly, continually. See this Mazda RX for example http://www.shyauto.com/Downloads/RX0711.pdf. ----- Original Message ----- > And just because you have knock sensing doesn't mean that the car will > automatically advance until it hears knock. It will more likely only > advance until > a preset (by the ECM) limit even if further advance over that would have > produced more power. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Mon Jan 14 08:19:35 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 10:19:35 EST Subject: [Mgs] Knock and timing, was Overdrive Numbers Message-ID: Yes, I know that Paul - but was making the observation that many people believe that all ECMs operate that way when only a small percentage actually do. Most have a preset datum point beyond which they will not advance. I use a GM sensor on my race car, but the 'brain' that adjusts timing on the fly is mine. Bill In a message dated 14/01/2008 6:55:13 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: The ones that gain benefit from higher octane fuels do *advance* the ignition over and above a planned map in small steps until pinking is encountered, than back it off more rapidly, continually. From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Jan 14 08:44:52 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 07:44:52 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <007401c8568a$ffe06230$0200a8c0@Three> References: <20080113163113.D2B291879C9@autox.team.net> <849482.60060.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <40b437200801131930h3dc32021xd560cdc84fac35c1@mail.gmail.com> <007401c8568a$ffe06230$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <40b437200801140744hb6cd740i9f322af27e58aafc@mail.gmail.com> At the time, I was working on knock detection. The engine designers at Ford that I met were concerned not for performance, but passenger complaints. It's high speed knock that destroys engines. A little low speed knock is generally considered safe (or it used to be 30 years ago). Regards, Simon From zymmer4 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 14 09:58:12 2008 From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:58:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <719426.3710.qm@web51302.mail.re2.yahoo.com> YEPPERS, The O/D on my 1976 B tourer really added about 3 mpg on the open road at 80 MPH. I considered that a wonderful thing.:-) Howard Gentry 1974 B-GT 1976 B tourer. --- Paul Hunt wrote: > There's been quite a shift in perception since, > then, and that must have > been the view for the whole of MGB production i.e. > nigh-on 20 years. From > what I hear from that side of the pond now the > common view now is that > overdrive is a very good thing for driver comfort > and for the engine. The > fuel issue is barely mentioned, in fact it is often > said that overdrive > makes no difference to mileage. I don't believe > that to be the case, by the > very fact that the engine is turning slower and > giving less bangs per mile > and per minute you must be using less fuel, unless > you have to drive with a > larger throttle opening to maintain a given speed in > OD 4th as straight 4th, > which certainly isn't the case on any MGB I have > driven. If one accepts > that you get better mileage in 3rd and 4th, one must > also accept that one > gets around half that improvement in OD 4th compared > to 4th. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Gasoline here was around $0.25/gallon in the 60's, > sometimes cheaper > > during "gas wars". It didn't hit $0.60/gallon > until the oil shortage in > > the mid 70's. With cheap fuel available the > buyers were making the value > > judgement between saving perhaps $0.0015/mile on > fuel cost or paying up > > font an additional 2% for the purchase price of > the car. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as zymmer4 at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jan 14 12:11:29 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 14:11:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control Message-ID: <20080114.151427.3588.4.MGBOB@juno.com> There is a TD owner in Florida who fitted cruise control. He drives miles, as you do. Last summer he went from home to Maine and back, and every summer he puts 3-4M miles on the car. His is the only TD I know of that has CC. For him it is of great benefit as the foot space of LHD cars is small, and ones left leg must be kinked awkwardly to keep it off the clutch. To keep it off the clutch, ones foot is jammed under the throttle leg. A couple of hours in a TD w/o slowing and shifting can develop remarkable cramps. Bob On Sun, 13 Jan 2008 21:45:42 -0600 Charles & Peggy Robinson writes: > What a wimp! I have driven from TX to N CA and back without a CC > in a MGB Roadster. Geeze, Cruise Control? Lock throttle cable at 3800 > rpm and go on!! > _______________________________________________ From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Jan 14 13:20:04 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 12:20:04 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: <20080114.151427.3588.4.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295777@kb1.mossmotors.com> Hmm. My immediate thought was that you could achieve cruise control in an MG TD by just putting a brick on the throttle pedal. (ducking) Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bob Howard > Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:11 AM > To: ccrobins at ktc.com > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control > > There is a TD owner in Florida who fitted cruise control. > He drives miles, as you do. Last summer he went from home to > Maine and back, and every summer he puts 3-4M miles on the > car. His is the only TD I know of that has CC. For him it > is of great benefit as the foot space of LHD cars is small, > and ones left leg must be kinked awkwardly to keep it off the > clutch. To keep it off the clutch, ones foot is jammed under > the throttle leg. A couple of hours in a TD w/o slowing and > shifting can develop remarkable cramps. > Bob From WSpohn4 at aol.com Mon Jan 14 13:26:03 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:26:03 EST Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control Message-ID: I once test drove a nice Jensen Interceptor convertible to which someone had fitted an after market cruise control. It probably hadn't had the accelerator more than half way to the floor in years and when It floored it to clear out the engine (still feel apologetic to the guy behind me covered in black smoke) the cruise jammed on at full throttle when I let off. That can seriously interfere with your sang froid, especially with the owner sitting beside you. Fortunately the brakes are more powerful than the engine, but there were a few moments fraught with regret before the damned thing released. Cramps or not, I prefer my old British cars without cruise, thanks. Bill In a message dated 1/14/2008 12:16:20 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, mgbob at juno.com writes: For him it is of great benefit as the foot space of LHD cars is small, and ones left leg must be kinked awkwardly to keep it off the clutch. To keep it off the clutch, ones foot is jammed under the throttle leg. A couple of hours in a TD w/o slowing and shifting can develop remarkable cramps. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Mon Jan 14 13:28:21 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:28:21 EST Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control Message-ID: Friend has a Fiat 600 like that once. You could hunch over the wheel, gripping it for all you were worth, foot trying to push the accelerator through the floor, doing your most impassioned imitation of Nuvolari, and the best thing about it is that no one around you in traffic would ever notice..... Bill In a message dated 1/14/2008 12:19:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: Hmm. My immediate thought was that you could achieve cruise control in an MG TD by just putting a brick on the throttle pedal. From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jan 14 13:29:11 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:29:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control Message-ID: <20080114.152911.3588.10.MGBOB@juno.com> Oh, that hurts. Thought you sold enough crankshafts to prove that the little engines can rev high enough to self-destruct, at least in the lower gears. Bob On Mon, 14 Jan 2008 12:20:04 -0800 "Dodd, Kelvin" writes: > Hmm. My immediate thought was that you could achieve cruise control > in an MG TD by just putting a brick on the throttle pedal. > > (ducking) > > > > Kelvin > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > > Behalf Of Bob Howard > > Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:11 AM > > To: ccrobins at ktc.com > > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control > > > > There is a TD owner in Florida who fitted cruise control. From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jan 14 13:48:07 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:48:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control Message-ID: <20080114.154807.3588.11.MGBOB@juno.com> It's been written somewhere that an early MG advert on signs was "Faster Than Most", to which witty chldren added "bicycles". "Safety Fast" replaced the unfortunate original wording. BTW--someone recently used "Safety-Fast" in a magazine advert. Ford, I recall, but I've seen it only once. Bob On Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:28:21 EST WSpohn4 at aol.com writes: > Friend has a Fiat 600 like that once. You could hunch over the wheel, > gripping it for all you were worth, foot trying to push the > accelerator through the floor, doing your most impassioned imitation of Nuvolari, and the > best thing about it is that no one around you in traffic would ever > notice..... > > Bill > > > In a message dated 1/14/2008 12:19:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > doddk at mossmotors.com writes: > > Hmm. My immediate thought was that you could achieve cruise control > in an MG TD by just putting a brick on the throttle pedal. From twobees at sprynet.com Mon Jan 14 14:22:25 2008 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:22:25 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Video of MG TC & Porsche Message-ID: <003001c856f3$8f157950$64451645@normoffice> I was talking to one of my clients today - Vintage Replicar. He mentioned that they recently added a link to YouTube footage of the original Porsche Project 356-1 climbing a hill in Gmund, Austria in companionship with an MG TC. Yes, it's commercial. But, really neat footage. I have to assume this was shot by Porsche back in 1948 as the quality, while black & white, is quite good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJIT2EUnWRc &eurl=http://www.type356-1.com/ Looks like the TC could have passed the Porsche IF they had allowed it. Norm Sippel '59 Turner From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Mon Jan 14 14:44:45 2008 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:44:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295777@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295777@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <478BD7CD.2000003@camden.rutgers.edu> My judicious setting of the carborator, I had my B set up with inadvertant cruise control...it was a 76 with HIF's, I did not know what I was doing so when I pulled out the choke, the car meandered up the road at 35 mph with my foot dangling across the clutch hump. Bill Saidel '76 B running parts car for a rebuild to a 74. Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > Hmm. My immediate thought was that you could achieve cruise control in > an MG TD by just putting a brick on the throttle pedal. > > (ducking) > > > > Kelvin > > > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net >> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On >> Behalf Of Bob Howard >> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:11 AM >> To: ccrobins at ktc.com >> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control >> >> There is a TD owner in Florida who fitted cruise control. >> He drives miles, as you do. Last summer he went from home to >> Maine and back, and every summer he puts 3-4M miles on the >> car. His is the only TD I know of that has CC. For him it >> is of great benefit as the foot space of LHD cars is small, >> and ones left leg must be kinked awkwardly to keep it off the >> clutch. To keep it off the clutch, ones foot is jammed under >> the throttle leg. A couple of hours in a TD w/o slowing and >> shifting can develop remarkable cramps. >> Bob From baxter at gretschpages.com Mon Jan 14 15:07:44 2008 From: baxter at gretschpages.com (Tim Baxter) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:07:44 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Moss Supercharger Kit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hope people don't feel like I'm spamming the list, especially given the EXTREMELY long time since my last post to this list, but I wanted to give folks a heads-up that Classic Motorsports and Moss are giving away a supercharger kit: http://classicmotorsports.net/supercharger/ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jan 14 16:33:16 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:33:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Video of MG TC & Porsche In-Reply-To: <003001c856f3$8f157950$64451645@normoffice> Message-ID: <478001.21067.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Norm 2Bs wrote: I was talking to one of my clients today - Vintage Replicar. He mentioned that they recently added a link to YouTube footage of the original Porsche Project 356-1 climbing a hill in Gmund, Austria in companionship with an MG TC. Yes, it's commercial. But, really neat footage. I have to assume this was shot by Porsche back in 1948 as the quality, while black & white, is quite good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJIT2EUnWRc &eurl=http://www.type356-1.com/ Looks like the TC could have passed the Porsche IF they had allowed it. ------------------- Very cool video. Amazing how skinny the tires are on the Porsche! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From montejane at gmail.com Mon Jan 14 17:02:09 2008 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 18:02:09 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: <478BD7CD.2000003@camden.rutgers.edu> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295777@kb1.mossmotors.com> <478BD7CD.2000003@camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: I remember 6 years back driving 2100 miles in less than 4 days in my newly purchased 67B. My right leg really got to cramping when extended for many hours at a time. Now, when I drive over 3 hours straight my leg starts getting uncomfortable. I have a slightly used add-on cruise control and someday might go ahead and install it on the 79B. Monte On 1/14/08, Bill Saidel wrote: > > My judicious setting of the carborator, I had my B set up with > inadvertant cruise control...it was a 76 with HIF's, I did not know what > I was doing so when I pulled out the choke, the car meandered up the > road at 35 mph with my foot dangling across the clutch hump. > > Bill Saidel > '76 B running parts car for a rebuild to a 74. > > > Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > > Hmm. My immediate thought was that you could achieve cruise control in > > an MG TD by just putting a brick on the throttle pedal. > > > > (ducking) > > > > > > > > Kelvin > > > > > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > >> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > >> Behalf Of Bob Howard > >> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:11 AM > >> To: ccrobins at ktc.com > >> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net > >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control > >> > >> There is a TD owner in Florida who fitted cruise control. > >> He drives miles, as you do. Last summer he went from home to > >> Maine and back, and every summer he puts 3-4M miles on the > >> car. His is the only TD I know of that has CC. For him it > >> is of great benefit as the foot space of LHD cars is small, > >> and ones left leg must be kinked awkwardly to keep it off the > >> clutch. To keep it off the clutch, ones foot is jammed under > >> the throttle leg. A couple of hours in a TD w/o slowing and > >> shifting can develop remarkable cramps. > >> Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From leachsr at idirect.com Mon Jan 14 19:45:20 2008 From: leachsr at idirect.com (Jim Leach) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 21:45:20 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D295777@kb1.mossmotors.com><478BD7CD.2000003@camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <006d01c85725$002d3bb0$6402a8c0@JIM> All this talk about cruise control reminded of an article written years ago in Road and Track by Peter Egan I think. It told the story of driving his newly constructed Lotus Eleven replica from California to Minnesota. Heat through the firewall and tunnel was so great he couldn't keep his foot on the gas pedal so he stopped and bought a frozen turkey to hold the pedal down. I don't recall if the bird reached the desired degree of "doneness". Cheers Jim L From r.gosling at penspen.com Tue Jan 15 02:13:23 2008 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:13:23 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Video of MG TC & Porsche References: <003001c856f3$8f157950$64451645@normoffice> Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7F6@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> Seeing those two side-by-side you realise how radical the styling of the Porsche must have seemed at the time - it's hard to believe they are contemporaries. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From zymmer4 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 15 07:38:07 2008 From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 06:38:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Video of MG TC & Porsche In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7F6@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> Message-ID: <604141.217.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com> yep... and that little porche soon became the Terror of SCCA E Production..I know..My Elva Courrier couldn't keep up..and I tried..lol Howard Gentry 1974 B-GT 1976 B tourer --- "Gosling, Richard" wrote: > Seeing those two side-by-side you realise how > radical the styling of the > Porsche must have seemed at the time - it's hard to > believe they are > contemporaries. > > > Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) > > ________________________________________________________________________ > This message (including any attachments) is > confidential and may be > privileged. If you have received it by mistake > please notify the sender by > return E-mail and delete this message from your > system. Any unauthorised use > or dissemination of this message in whole or in part > is strictly prohibited. > Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. > The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the > improper or incomplete > transmission of the information contained in this > communication nor for any > delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The > Penspen Group does not > guarantee that the integrity of this communication > has been maintained or that > this communication is free of viruses, interceptions > or interference. > The following UK companies within the Penspen Group > and any electronic > communication sent on behalf of any of them, are > subject to the provisions of > the UK Companies Act 1985; > PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) > Registered Office: 3 Water > Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in > England and Wales (VAT No; 239 > 7770 19) > PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered > Office: 3 Water Lane, > Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and > Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 > 19) > (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & > Associates are operating > divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners > and Pencol are trade names > of Penspen Limited) > MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) > Registered Office: 3 > Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in > England and Wales (VAT No; > 537 8635 08) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as zymmer4 at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From pete_groh at yahoo.com Tue Jan 15 10:14:25 2008 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:14:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Collectables & Automobilia Show Jan 19 Harleysville, PA USA Hosted by the Delaware Valley Classic MG Chapter Message-ID: <546588.86474.qm@web36804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I plan to set up as a vendor at the show this Saturday. Hope to see you at the show. This is the 1st time I set up at the show. I have copied additional information sent to me about the show sent to me by the web master. Hi Pete! I'm Lew, the DVC Webmaster. I just wanted to help you sort out a few things about the show. The show is mostly a collectables show. We do have vendors of all kinds attend. We state no car parts because it is held in a room at a local pub. We don't want to have people dragging in greasy/oily parts through an area where people are having lunch. Clean, collectable car parts are ok (emblems, lug nuts/spinners, keys, mirrors, etc.), but engine/drive train parts would not go over well with the management (valve covers, oil pans, exhaust pipes, etc.). Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City, MD USA Saturday, January 19th, 2008 - 12 Noon To 4 pm Salford Pub 712 Main Street Harleysville, PA. Hosted by the Delaware Valley Classic MG Chapter. 3' x 3' Table (one prepaid table per vendor) - $10 or $20/Table On The Day of The Show (Limit of 2 Vendors At Same Table) General Admission - $2.00 At The Door Display - Buy - Sell - Swap British Automobilia - Signs - Books - Toys - Jewelry - Magazines - Tools - Models - Clothes - Pictures Prints - Ads - Badges - Brochures - Dash Plaques - Shop Manuals Sculptures - Tapes, DVD's - Glassware - Accessories Any Automobilia Related to British Automobiles (No Car Parts Please) Food & Beverages can be purchased from the Pub Got cabin fever? Then drive on up to Harleysville http://www.dvcmg.com/ ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From james.f.juhas at snet.net Tue Jan 15 11:16:29 2008 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 13:16:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Video of MG TC & Porsche In-Reply-To: <478001.21067.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <478001.21067.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <478CF87D.5030102@snet.net> Those Porsche tires are even skinnier than the Dunlops I run on my MGA! And the TC did pass at tthe end!!! Dan DiBiase wrote: > Norm 2Bs wrote: > > Looks like the TC could have passed the Porsche IF they had allowed it. > > ------------------- > Very cool video. Amazing how skinny the tires are on the Porsche! > > > > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... > '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 > NAMGBR #5-2328 From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jan 15 15:32:54 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 16:32:54 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> <00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <478D3496.4040609@ktc.com> Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" add-ons. CR Paul Hunt wrote: > There's been quite a shift in perception since, then, and that must have > been the view for the whole of MGB production i.e. nigh-on 20 years. From > what I hear from that side of the pond now the common view now is that > overdrive is a very good thing for driver comfort and for the engine. The > fuel issue is barely mentioned, in fact it is often said that overdrive > makes no difference to mileage. I don't believe that to be the case, by the > very fact that the engine is turning slower and giving less bangs per mile > and per minute you must be using less fuel, unless you have to drive with a > larger throttle opening to maintain a given speed in OD 4th as straight 4th, > which certainly isn't the case on any MGB I have driven. If one accepts > that you get better mileage in 3rd and 4th, one must also accept that one > gets around half that improvement in OD 4th compared to 4th. > > PaulH. From awhitema at panix.com Tue Jan 15 15:52:52 2008 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 14:52:52 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <478D3496.4040609@ktc.com> References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> <00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> <478D3496.4040609@ktc.com> Message-ID: <8113383F-F307-4A13-BDA3-DA26BCFB5430@panix.com> On Jan 15, 2008, at 2:32 PM, Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" > add-ons. That corresponds to my anecdotal experience. Dads 1978 MGB got 28-31 MPG @ 70 mph on extended trips. It had no overdrive and ran all day at 4000 rpm (or more, I don't remember the exact figure). My 1975 MGB gets 26-30 MPG on the same trips. It has overdrive and runs at say 3500 rpm. The '78 had a 25D distributor and a downdraft weber and was recently rebuilt (less than 20K miles). The '75 has a 45D with pertronix and dual SUs, but is pretty tired. I need to get over and buy dad's car, if only for the engine. My experience says the OD doesn't matter one bit regarding mileage, but when my OD broke and would not engage, it was disquieting for me to listen to the engine at the higher revs--even though I knew it was just fine. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 15 16:26:32 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 15:26:32 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <8113383F-F307-4A13-BDA3-DA26BCFB5430@panix.com> Message-ID: It probably makes more difference if you try to average 80+ mph (on I-5 in California, for instance). At that speed the non-OD MG is well out of its powerband and struggling (assuming the driver can even tolerate the howl). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/15/08 2:52 PM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote: > On Jan 15, 2008, at 2:32 PM, Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > >> Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" >> add-ons. > > That corresponds to my anecdotal experience. > > Dads 1978 MGB got 28-31 MPG @ 70 mph on extended trips. It had no > overdrive and ran all day at 4000 rpm (or more, I don't remember the > exact figure). > > My 1975 MGB gets 26-30 MPG on the same trips. It has overdrive and > runs at say 3500 rpm. > > The '78 had a 25D distributor and a downdraft weber and was recently > rebuilt (less than 20K miles). The '75 has a 45D with pertronix and > dual SUs, but is pretty tired. I need to get over and buy dad's car, > if only for the engine. > > My experience says the OD doesn't matter one bit regarding mileage, > but when my OD broke and would not engage, it was disquieting for me > to listen to the engine at the higher revs--even though I knew it was > just fine. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Tue Jan 15 16:58:16 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 18:58:16 EST Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers Message-ID: Indeed it does. The MGC can cruise at 80-90 (the MGB a bit lower) and be relaxed using the overdrive. If you never exceed 70 MPH, don't waste time on an OD. Bill In a message dated 1/15/2008 3:27:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: It probably makes more difference if you try to average 80+ mph (on I-5 in California, for instance). At that speed the non-OD MG is well out of its powerband and struggling (assuming the driver can even tolerate the howl). From awhitema at panix.com Tue Jan 15 18:07:53 2008 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:07:53 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <615ACB65-F7FB-4060-925C-BD1B3185937F@panix.com> On Jan 15, 2008, at 4:51 PM, Murray Arundell wrote: > I'm sorry Aaron but those statements are rediculous and yiur views > are at odds with every motor engineer currently practising. Except > it seems John Twist and as such I would have therefore suspect his > opinions on anything. I'm sorry, but perhaps you didn't learn the definition of 'anecdotal'. Anecdotal (adjective): (of an account) not necessarily true or reliable, because based on personal accounts rather than facts or research. So, before you attack my statements as ridiculous, consider what I wrote. My *anecdotal* experience is that the overdrive does nothing to improve gas mileage, but does significantly improve the enjoyability of driving at high speeds for long distances. In fact, my overdrive-equipped MG gets *worse* mileage when compared to a non- OD equipped car with the same driver (as I wrote previously, I suspect other factors are involved). As a second *anecdotal* note, when my OD was inoperative, my mileage on a 180 mile trip from Ellensburg to Pullman was still right within the range I normally get (26-30). I noted it only in that there was no change to note. Your mileage may vary. Mine didn't. -- Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/ '75 B (red for now), HIF4 carbs and overdrive '06 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 5 speed From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jan 15 22:32:14 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 23:32:14 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <8113383F-F307-4A13-BDA3-DA26BCFB5430@panix.com> References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> <00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> <478D3496.4040609@ktc.com> <8113383F-F307-4A13-BDA3-DA26BCFB5430@panix.com> Message-ID: <478D96DE.6030204@ktc.com> Too many variables in your experiences to draw any solid conclusions. My experience is a bit different: I rebuilt the engine in a '70 B. All new innards but the crank and rods. It got around 20 mpg during the breakin period (mixed driving) but I couldn't stand the sound of the engine howling at 4,000 + RPM at road speeds. So I came by a top-fill LH overdrive tranny and installed it. Soon after that we took a trip from TX to CA and OR. Drove the coast highways in CA & OR, camped in Nat'l and state parks. With two adults and our camping gear aboard, the B got 25 - 27 mpg for the trip. I have a '69 B now that has a fresh engine built to '67 specs and the same type OD as the '70 had. It got about the same mileage as the '70 on a trip from Central TX to NoCal and back. Same deal ; two adults and camping gear. So at least the two cars compare well. I really have a tuff time believing 30 mpg from a B without OD at 70+ mph. Shoot, it's a long stroke engine, with lots of internal friction. Those piston speeds are waaay up there at 4K. Cheers, CR Aaron Whiteman wrote: > On Jan 15, 2008, at 2:32 PM, Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > >> Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" >> add-ons. > > That corresponds to my anecdotal experience. > > Dads 1978 MGB got 28-31 MPG @ 70 mph on extended trips. It had no > overdrive and ran all day at 4000 rpm (or more, I don't remember the > exact figure). > > My 1975 MGB gets 26-30 MPG on the same trips. It has overdrive and > runs at say 3500 rpm. > > The '78 had a 25D distributor and a downdraft weber and was recently > rebuilt (less than 20K miles). The '75 has a 45D with pertronix and > dual SUs, but is pretty tired. I need to get over and buy dad's car, > if only for the engine. > > My experience says the OD doesn't matter one bit regarding mileage, > but when my OD broke and would not engage, it was disquieting for me > to listen to the engine at the higher revs--even though I knew it was > just fine. From rocknatural at gmail.com Tue Jan 15 22:52:06 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 23:52:06 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <615ACB65-F7FB-4060-925C-BD1B3185937F@panix.com> References: <615ACB65-F7FB-4060-925C-BD1B3185937F@panix.com> Message-ID: <478D9B86.2030406@gmail.com> Aaron Whiteman wrote: > On Jan 15, 2008, at 4:51 PM, Murray Arundell wrote: > > >> I'm sorry Aaron but those statements are rediculous and yiur views >> are at odds with every motor engineer currently practising. Except >> it seems John Twist and as such I would have therefore suspect his >> opinions on anything. >> > > I'm sorry, but perhaps you didn't learn the definition of 'anecdotal'. > > Anecdotal (adjective): (of an account) not necessarily true or > reliable, because based on personal accounts rather than facts or > research. > > So, before you attack my statements as ridiculous, consider what I > wrote. My *anecdotal* experience is that the overdrive does nothing > to improve gas mileage, but does significantly improve the > enjoyability of driving at high speeds for long distances. In fact, > my overdrive-equipped MG gets *worse* mileage when compared to a non- > OD equipped car with the same driver (as I wrote previously, I > suspect other factors are involved). As a second *anecdotal* note, > when my OD was inoperative, my mileage on a 180 mile trip from > Ellensburg to Pullman was still right within the range I normally get > (26-30). I noted it only in that there was no change to note. > > Your mileage may vary. Mine didn't. I normally keep my tater trap tight shut here, unless I have some unique advice to share, but I can't keep quiet about this. Dammit, guys, real gentlement don't just come out and call each other liars or idiots, even if we (possibly erroneously) think that to be a true description at the time. "rediculous" Murray, the word is "ridiculous;" it derives from "ridicule." I'll bet you ten bucks you pronounce it that way too, "Re" without a clue that some people around you are discounting your contributions because of that usage. A simple request: Lets's have a shitload more comeraderie and a similar s. l. less contempt shown. -The Roxter -- From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jan 16 01:48:36 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:48:36 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three> <00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> <478D3496.4040609@ktc.com> Message-ID: <008101c8581d$2c43dd00$0200a8c0@Three> If that were the case my respect for John would go down several notches. Mileage benefits may be arguable, comfort benefits definitely not! ----- Original Message ----- > Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" add-ons. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jan 16 02:07:40 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:07:40 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: <004801c855fa$1a6f5cf0$0200a8c0@Three><00e401c8568f$340eb3f0$0200a8c0@Three> <478D3496.4040609@ktc.com> <8113383F-F307-4A13-BDA3-DA26BCFB5430@panix.com> Message-ID: <012801c8581f$46241760$0200a8c0@Three> Means nothing. Compare yours doing the same journey with and without OD. ----- Original Message ----- > Dads 1978 MGB got 28-31 MPG @ 70 mph on extended trips. It had no > overdrive and ran all day at 4000 rpm (or more, I don't remember the > exact figure). > > My 1975 MGB gets 26-30 MPG on the same trips. It has overdrive and > runs at say 3500 rpm. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jan 16 02:11:56 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:11:56 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers References: Message-ID: <016101c85821$611b4000$0200a8c0@Three> Peak torque occurs at 3000 rpm which fair enough is only 54mph in 4th and 66 in OD 4th. But the MGB has a very flat torque curve from 2000 rpm to 4500rpm, only varying by about 8ft lb. 80mph is 3600 rpm in OD 4th and only 2 ft lb lower than peak torque. No way is mine struggling at 80, it will go over 100. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > It probably makes more difference if you try to average 80+ mph (on I-5 in > California, for instance). At that speed the non-OD MG is well out of its > powerband and struggling From mgbob at juno.com Wed Jan 16 06:28:38 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:28:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers Message-ID: <20080116.083049.2544.6.MGBOB@juno.com> My recollection, and it's years old, of John Twist's opinion, was that there was not enough savings to be had in fuel consumption and engine wear to offset the additional expense and maintenance of the OD. That was years ago, though, when the USA had its 55 mph speed limit, and I suspect that 55 mph limit was a factor in John's thinking. We could, of course, ask him directly. Bob On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:48:36 -0000 "Paul Hunt" writes: > If that were the case my respect for John would go down several > notches. > Mileage benefits may be arguable, comfort benefits definitely not! > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" > add-ons. From mgbob at juno.com Wed Jan 16 06:14:14 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:14:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers Message-ID: <20080116.083049.2544.2.MGBOB@juno.com> Charlie, John Twist wrote that years ago. Is that still his point of view? Bob On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 16:32:54 -0600 Charles & Peggy Robinson writes: > Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" > add-ons. > > CR > > > Paul Hunt wrote: > > There's been quite a shift in perception since, then, and that From palte at gmx.net Wed Jan 16 09:24:15 2008 From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 17:24:15 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080116162415.284190@gmx.net> Bill wrote: > Friend has a Fiat 600 like that once. You could hunch over the wheel, > gripping it for all you were worth, foot trying to push the accelerator > through the > floor, doing your most impassioned imitation of Nuvolari, and the best > thing > about it is that no one around you in traffic would ever notice..... > > Bill IIRC the Fiat 600 had as standard a manual throttle control, sort of predecessor to the CC, apart from the accelerator. But then, I may be wrong. I was only small kid at the time they embellished our roads here in Europe. Bert -- GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS. Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail From awhitema at panix.com Wed Jan 16 09:54:40 2008 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:54:40 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] My bad (was: Re: Overdrive Numbers) In-Reply-To: <478D9B86.2030406@gmail.com> References: <615ACB65-F7FB-4060-925C-BD1B3185937F@panix.com> <478D9B86.2030406@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2896923F-E893-42D8-82EA-517E801DA316@panix.com> On Jan 15, 2008, at 9:52 PM, The Roxter wrote: > Aaron Whiteman wrote: >> On Jan 15, 2008, at 4:51 PM, Murray Arundell wrote: >> >> >>> I'm sorry Aaron but those statements are ... >>> >> I'm sorry, but perhaps ... >> > I normally keep my tater trap tight shut here, unless I have some > unique advice to share, but I can't keep quiet about this. > > Dammit, guys, real gentlement don't just come out and call each > other liars or idiots, even if we (possibly erroneously) think that > to be a true description at the time. Err, egg on my face. Thank you sir for sending this, because it caused me to re-read the thread. I was mistaken in how Murray sent his mail to me (for some reason, I saw it via the list; it was not). I should not have taken a private message to the list, and I have sent him an apology privately. In other news, I drove the MG today. It's currently 10F, and all the windows in the Subaru are covered in a thick layer of ice on the inside of the windows. I didn't have time to melt or scrape them, so I just switch cars instead. No heat, freezing temperatures, *bad* roads, and hills. Oh, that was fun. All this so I can go to the dentist. -- Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/ '75 B '06 Subaru Outback Sport From rolindsay at yahoo.com Wed Jan 16 14:15:03 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 13:15:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Problem found, top-end job completed Message-ID: <624250.23398.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Dudes and Dudettes, I have completed the top-end job on my '70 MGB (with the '65 engine). You might remember that the engine failed a compression test with an indicated damaged valve. The #2 cylinder was down 30psi from the other three. The problem turned out to be just as expected but it was a inlet valve, not a burned exhaust valve causing the leak. It seems that the DPO may have installed new valves and/or seats but never lapped the valves onto their seats. The #2 inlet valve is NOT bent. The seat was just not symmetric, allowing blow-by. I have since ground the seat to mate properly with the valve and have lapped all eight valves onto their seats. The valves have all been reinstalled and the head repainted and ready for reassembly. It sits on the bench ready to go. I have cleaned the coke from the piston crowns and have vacuumed away any loose debris. Tonight I will lift the radiator out so I can access the front of the crankshaft more easily. I'll then rotate the engine by hand and clean any remaining crud from the cylinders. After a good oiling, it will be almost reassembly time. I say 'almost' because a little painting is in order first... regards, rick - bored at work - lindsay From barrie at look.ca Wed Jan 16 15:05:36 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 17:05:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] My bad (was: Re: Overdrive Numbers) In-Reply-To: <2896923F-E893-42D8-82EA-517E801DA316@panix.com> References: <615ACB65-F7FB-4060-925C-BD1B3185937F@panix.com> <478D9B86.2030406@gmail.com> <2896923F-E893-42D8-82EA-517E801DA316@panix.com> Message-ID: Ahhhh! Now we are back to nice chats to each other! On Sunday there was no salt (washed away by recent rain), no snow (it hit 10 degrees C - a record), and no wet (all had dried up). So I fired up the MGB GT V8 and rocketed off for a spin. I belted down the local "fast lonely" road and luckily had slowed down to 80kph just before spotting a police cruiser poking out of a side road. What a blast! Only a clunk from hitting (slowly) a sleeping policeman (not in the cruiser) spoiled it just a little (exhaust being replaced by "cobra" pipes giving extra 1.5" clearance). Now wasn't that a nice short story? .............................and Monday? 3" of SNOW !!!!!!!!!!! At 11:54 AM 1/16/2008, Aaron Whiteman wrote: >On Jan 15, 2008, at 9:52 PM, The Roxter wrote: > > > Aaron Whiteman wrote: > >> On Jan 15, 2008, at 4:51 PM, Murray Arundell wrote: > >> > >> > >>> I'm sorry Aaron but those statements are ... > >>> > >> I'm sorry, but perhaps ... > >> > > I normally keep my tater trap tight shut here, unless I have some > > unique advice to share, but I can't keep quiet about this. > > > > Dammit, guys, real gentlement don't just come out and call each > > other liars or idiots, even if we (possibly erroneously) think that > > to be a true description at the time. > >Err, egg on my face. Thank you sir for sending this, because it >caused me to re-read the thread. I was mistaken in how Murray sent >his mail to me (for some reason, I saw it via the list; it was not). >I should not have taken a private message to the list, and I have >sent him an apology privately. > >In other news, I drove the MG today. It's currently 10F, and all the >windows in the Subaru are covered in a thick layer of ice on the >inside of the windows. I didn't have time to melt or scrape them, so >I just switch cars instead. > >No heat, freezing temperatures, *bad* roads, and hills. Oh, that was >fun. All this so I can go to the dentist. > >-- >Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/MG/ >'75 B >'06 Subaru Outback Sport >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From RANDELL_KEGG at msn.com Wed Jan 16 17:30:08 2008 From: RANDELL_KEGG at msn.com (RANDELL KEGG) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 19:30:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control References: <20080116162415.284190@gmx.net> Message-ID: I had a 1966 Fiat 1500. It was kind of a MGB clone. It had a manual hand throttle, as well. It was real handy on cold days, until the motor warmed up. Nice car, but it had two problems: You couldn't find parts for it, (in 1971), and the body tried its best to turn to an iron oxide dust. Randy Kegg ----- Original Message ----- From: palte at gmx.net To: WSpohn4 at aol.com ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 11:24 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control Bill wrote: > Friend has a Fiat 600 like that once. You could hunch over the wheel, > gripping it for all you were worth, foot trying to push the accelerator > through the > floor, doing your most impassioned imitation of Nuvolari, and the best > thing > about it is that no one around you in traffic would ever notice..... > > Bill IIRC the Fiat 600 had as standard a manual throttle control, sort of predecessor to the CC, apart from the accelerator. But then, I may be wrong. I was only small kid at the time they embellished our roads here in Europe. Bert -- GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS. Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as randell_kegg at msn.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From arundell at ghs.com.au Wed Jan 16 17:40:15 2008 From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 10:40:15 +1000 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: References: <20080116162415.284190@gmx.net> Message-ID: <19755E95-F13D-4A28-89D2-2821A28065F6@ghs.com.au> F.I.A.T = Fix It Again Tony On 17/01/2008, at 10:30 AM, RANDELL KEGG wrote: > I had a 1966 Fiat 1500. It was kind of a MGB clone. It had a manual > hand > throttle, as well. It was real handy on cold days, until the motor > warmed up. > Nice car, but it had two problems: You couldn't find parts for it, > (in 1971), > and the body tried its best to turn to an iron oxide dust. > > Randy Kegg > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: palte at gmx.net > To: WSpohn4 at aol.com ; > mgs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 11:24 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control > > > Bill wrote: > >> Friend has a Fiat 600 like that once. You could hunch over the wheel, >> gripping it for all you were worth, foot trying to push the >> accelerator >> through the >> floor, doing your most impassioned imitation of Nuvolari, and the >> best >> thing >> about it is that no one around you in traffic would ever notice..... >> >> Bill > > > IIRC the Fiat 600 had as standard a manual throttle control, > sort of predecessor to the CC, apart from the accelerator. > But then, I may be wrong. I was only small kid at the time they > embellished our roads here in Europe. > > Bert > > -- > GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS. > Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: > http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as randell_kegg at msn.com > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs stinfo/mgs> > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as arundell at ghs.com.au > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Wed Jan 16 17:57:22 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 18:57:22 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: <20080116.083049.2544.6.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080116.083049.2544.6.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <478EA7F2.4070403@ktc.com> You sound like a Twist groupie. (G) I sent him an Email years ago, asked him his rationale. His answer made no sense. He answered no further messages. Anyway, what maintenance? You clean the screen now and then, keep the oil topped up and drive it. CR Bob Howard wrote: > My recollection, and it's years old, of John Twist's opinion, was that > there was not enough savings to be had in fuel consumption and engine > wear to offset the additional expense and maintenance of the OD. That > was years ago, though, when the USA had its 55 mph speed limit, and I > suspect that 55 mph limit was a factor in John's thinking. > We could, of course, ask him directly. > Bob > > On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:48:36 -0000 "Paul Hunt" > writes: >> If that were the case my respect for John would go down several >> notches. >> Mileage benefits may be arguable, comfort benefits definitely not! >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" >> add-ons. From sammler at bellsouth.net Thu Jan 17 08:03:56 2008 From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler") Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 10:03:56 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Cruise Control In-Reply-To: <20080116162415.284190@gmx.net> References: <20080116162415.284190@gmx.net> Message-ID: <478F6E5C.9090309@bellsouth.net> My 1958 Fiat Millecento (1100) had the throttle control which could be "locked into position". MG content follows: The Millecento was what I used to trade in for my new OEW 1962 MGA 1600 MKII. After signing the contract at the dealer's showroom I went outside, hopped in the Fiat to leave, and ooops, the Italian cousin of Prince Lucas, obviously miffed by my actions, displayed the family trait often mentioned by members of the MGS group. Duke Marelli would not allow the starter to work. I put it in neutral, coasted around the corner, out of sight of the folks in the showroom and my friends got out of the car and gave me a good push to get it going. The next week I had my new car and in the next two weeks one of my "pushers" purchased a red MKII and the other purchased a Midget from the same dealer. end of MG content ;-) palte at gmx.net wrote: > Bill wrote: > > >> Friend has a Fiat 600 like that once. You could hunch over the wheel, >> gripping it for all you were worth, foot trying to push the accelerator >> through the >> floor, doing your most impassioned imitation of Nuvolari, and the best >> thing >> about it is that no one around you in traffic would ever notice..... >> >> Bill >> > > > IIRC the Fiat 600 had as standard a manual throttle control, > sort of predecessor to the CC, apart from the accelerator. > But then, I may be wrong. I was only small kid at the time they > embellished our roads here in Europe. > > Bert From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Thu Jan 17 13:00:28 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:00:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Numbers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I've got to agree, what maintenance? My father drove Volvos with ODs for years, no special maintenance and no extra expense. When I put an used OD in my GT two summers ago all I did was remove the side cover and looked for chipped teeth, put a new screen on the OD unit, and fresh oil. 5,400 miles later no problems. It's got to improve milage some, why did they add 5th gear to transmissions? I've keep milage records of my GT since I bought it and prior to installing the OD transmission I averaged 28.7 mpg over 5 years and 13,000 miles. Since installing the OD transmission in the spring of 2006, I have averaged 31.5 mpg over 5,400 miles. So it would seem to me that the OD improves fuel milage. And at todays gas prices I won't be long getting the cost of the OD back. The other benefit to an OD is that when cruising along at 70 mph I can hear myself think. Is the OD a "feel good" add-on? You bet it is. Mark 73 MGBGT From: Charles & Peggy Robinson You sound like a Twist groupie. (G) I sent him an Email years ago, asked him his rationale. His answer made no sense. He answered no further messages. Anyway, what maintenance? You clean the screen now and then, keep the oil topped up and drive it. CR Bob Howard wrote: > My recollection, and it's years old, of John Twist's opinion, was that there was not enough savings to be had in fuel consumption and engine wear to offset the additional expense and maintenance of the OD. That was years ago, though, when the USA had its 55 mph speed limit, and I suspect that 55 mph limit was a factor in John's thinking. We could, of course, ask him directly. > Bob > >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> Tell John Twist. He thinks overdrives are strictly "feel good" add-ons. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 18 13:01:53 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:01:53 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again Message-ID: Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's the goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or so. Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a brake-pedal-actuated contact switch instead. It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the hassle (since it's totally simple), it's the risk of letting air into the brake system every time. Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From leylandauto at yahoo.com Fri Jan 18 13:42:28 2008 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:42:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <294081.26633.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Max, I have heard that the 62-67 brake light switch crosses with the Volvo 122 switch and Volvo is still making an OEM one that is reportedly bombproof. Carl Max Heim wrote: Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's the goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or so. Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a brake-pedal-actuated contact switch instead. It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the hassle (since it's totally simple), it's the risk of letting air into the brake system every time. Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Jan 18 13:48:44 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:48:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: <294081.26633.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <564955.47364.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi, Carl, whereya been? Snowed in? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From leylandauto at yahoo.com Fri Jan 18 14:05:56 2008 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 13:05:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: <564955.47364.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <116851.77493.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Been a lot of snow this year but I put four studded snow tires on the 73GT and it has gotten me everywhere so far. From my experience, it seems to do much better than big 4x4 pickups on the turnpike in the snow as well :-) Carl (mostly lurking) Dan DiBiase wrote: Hi, Carl, whereya been? Snowed in? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 18 14:29:44 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 13:29:44 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: <294081.26633.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Really? Have to check into that. I just figured out that all I needed was a different pedal cover to use the pedal-operated switch. But they wanted too much money for one. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/18/08 12:42 PM, Carl French at leylandauto at yahoo.com wrote: > Max, I have heard that the 62-67 brake light switch crosses with the Volvo 122 > switch and Volvo is still making an OEM one that is reportedly bombproof. > > Carl > > Max Heim wrote: > Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's the > goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or so. > Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a brake-pedal-actuated > contact switch instead. > > It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the hassle (since it's totally > simple), it's the risk of letting air into the brake system every time. > Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Jan 18 15:13:20 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 14:13:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <797792.71505.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Drill a hole in yours and fit the switch! Yes, the stock item has a welded-in boss that is threaded but with two nuts, on on either side of the metal, you can get the same result. rick --- Max Heim wrote: > Really? Have to check into that. > > I just figured out that all I needed was a different > pedal cover to use the > pedal-operated switch. But they wanted too much > money for one. > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 1/18/08 12:42 PM, Carl French at > leylandauto at yahoo.com wrote: > > > Max, I have heard that the 62-67 brake light > switch crosses with the Volvo 122 > > switch and Volvo is still making an OEM one that > is reportedly bombproof. > > > > Carl > > > > Max Heim wrote: > > Last night I noticed my brake lights were > inoperative. I'm sure it's the > > goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem > to last a year or so. > > Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a > brake-pedal-actuated > > contact switch instead. > > > > It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the > hassle (since it's totally > > simple), it's the risk of letting air into the > brake system every time. > > Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. > > > > > > -- > > > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com Fri Jan 18 15:20:32 2008 From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 17:20:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: <797792.71505.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <797792.71505.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Seems like that would be pretty hard to adjust -- not a trivial consideration. I'd weld a nut on, if I were converting the pedal cover... or maybe ask the list if anyone has a spare one lying around. Matt On 18 Jan, 2008, at 5:13 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote: > Drill a hole in yours and fit the switch! Yes, the > stock item has a welded-in boss that is threaded but > with two nuts, on on either side of the metal, you can > get the same result. > > rick > > --- Max Heim wrote: > >> Really? Have to check into that. >> >> I just figured out that all I needed was a different >> pedal cover to use the >> pedal-operated switch. But they wanted too much >> money for one. >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> on 1/18/08 12:42 PM, Carl French at >> leylandauto at yahoo.com wrote: >> >>> Max, I have heard that the 62-67 brake light >> switch crosses with the Volvo 122 >>> switch and Volvo is still making an OEM one that >> is reportedly bombproof. >>> >>> Carl >>> >>> Max Heim wrote: >>> Last night I noticed my brake lights were >> inoperative. I'm sure it's the >>> goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem >> to last a year or so. >>> Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a >> brake-pedal-actuated >>> contact switch instead. >>> >>> It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the >> hassle (since it's totally >>> simple), it's the risk of letting air into the >> brake system every time. >>> Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. >>> >>> >>> -- >>> >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >>> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> >> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com >> >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as matt.lists at trebelhorn.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Jan 18 16:11:02 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:11:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] TD project Message-ID: <407212.83443.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Anyone know of a TD project that someone started and never finished? I'd like to find a car like this to replace my MGB, when the time comes. rick From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Jan 19 02:21:37 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 09:21:37 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again References: Message-ID: <007201c85a7d$fd714590$0200a8c0@Three> Both the hydraulic and mechanical switches supplied for the MGB are said to be pretty iffy these days, the recommendation being to fit a relay with diode suppression across the winding to boot. See http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_electricsframe.htm and click on 'Lighting' and 'Brake Lights' for one suggestion. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's the > goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or so. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Jan 19 02:59:31 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 09:59:31 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again References: <294081.26633.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b301c85a82$3091f7e0$0200a8c0@Three> Interestingly I found this http://www.sw-em.com/swemkits.htm which recommends an upgrade to the mechanically operated switch for the 122 and 1800S and includes the statement "... when this switch fails, and they do, especially if you don't stomp the brakes every time, or have converted to silicon fluid which seems incompatible with the O.E. switches ...". So not only does it repeat something I first read some years ago for the MGB but which I thought had been debunked and replaced by the 'poor quality' cause, but failure occurs on Volvos anyway. Also this http://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=989&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1 which repeats the 'common failure' statement but has pictures of the switch, which do look similar, it would be all down to the thread type and size. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I have heard that the 62-67 brake light switch crosses with the Volvo 122 > switch and Volvo is still making an OEM one that is reportedly bombproof. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 19 10:03:38 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 11:03:38 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] clamp assembly References: Message-ID: <000201c85abd$3d66df90$800101df@garage.local> hi, all. does anyone have an extra clamp assembly for a 62-74 mgb distributor you would be willing to sell? part 153-400 in the moss catalog. thanks. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 19 22:30:01 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 23:30:01 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] more mirror References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com> <000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local> <00b901c83fd0$d3746ff0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <001b01c85b25$82c31640$800101df@garage.local> does the driver side outside mirror glass on a 73 mgb roadster come out? if so how? i seem to have broken mine. don't ask. ok. i hit it with a box. the box had a toilet in it. my daughter flushed part of her game boy. princesses don't put their hands in toilet water. the part was irretrievably stuck. only solution was to replace the unit. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jan 20 03:05:04 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 10:05:04 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] more mirror References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com><000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local><00b901c83fd0$d3746ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <001b01c85b25$82c31640$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <004e01c85b4c$b4e52f60$0200a8c0@Three> There are many different types. Mine has a black plastic surround that fits between the glass and the housing that can be prised out, even with good glass in, but should be no problem with yours. Then I think it just sticks in there with double-sided sticky-tape, slotting the surround in afterwards. BT, DT also, although not so amusingly :o) PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oliver" To: Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 5:30 AM Subject: [Mgs] more mirror > does the driver side outside mirror glass on a 73 mgb roadster come out? > if > so how? i seem to have broken mine. don't ask. > > > ok. > i hit it with a box. > the box had a toilet in it. > my daughter flushed part of her game boy. > princesses don't put their hands in toilet water. > the part was irretrievably stuck. > only solution was to replace the unit. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From mgb72 at airmail.net Sun Jan 20 10:32:52 2008 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 11:32:52 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] more mirror In-Reply-To: <001b01c85b25$82c31640$800101df@garage.local> References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com> <000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local> <00b901c83fd0$d3746ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <001b01c85b25$82c31640$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <004401c85b8a$7e118130$7a348390$@net> You can probably remove the broken glass, and have one cut at a glass shop. I don't think you will find a replacement glass anywhere because there were so many types of mirrors. Binswanger in Richardson can cut these. Chad -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 11:30 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] more mirror does the driver side outside mirror glass on a 73 mgb roadster come out? if so how? i seem to have broken mine. don't ask. ok. From mgb72 at airmail.net Sun Jan 20 11:00:25 2008 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 12:00:25 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] more mirror In-Reply-To: <47938AC6.3060704@sbcglobal.net> References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com> <000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local> <00b901c83fd0$d3746ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <001b01c85b25$82c31640$800101df@garage.local> <004401c85b8a$7e118130$7a348390$@net> <47938AC6.3060704@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <004801c85b8e$55d0a580$0171f080$@net> Yeah they cut a vent window for my B remade the rubber surround, and assembled it for about $30. Chad -----Original Message----- From: Charles Hill [mailto:chillmog at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 11:54 AM To: Chad Cooper Subject: Re: [Mgs] more mirror Their shop in Independence, MO did the mirror on my 914 a few years ago - same basic design as an MGB mirror. They even reassembled the mirror and it was less than $20. Charles Hill Chad Cooper wrote: > You can probably remove the broken glass, and have one cut at a glass shop. > I don't think you will find a replacement glass anywhere because there were > so many types of mirrors. > > Binswanger in Richardson can cut these. > > Chad From mgbob at juno.com Mon Jan 21 07:24:19 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 09:24:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again Message-ID: <20080121.094349.3700.6.MGBOB@juno.com> Max, TDs use a similar switch. It's generally thought that replacement switches these days are not as robust as the original switches. Perhaps they are--perhaps they are not, but as many owners have installed halogen bulbs, the load on the switches has increased. In an effort to extend the life of the switches, many have installed a relay. In TDs, it's easy and inconspicuous, and it wouldn't be difficult in the early MGB. Bob On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:01:53 -0800 Max Heim writes: > Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's > the > goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or > so. > Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a > brake-pedal-actuated > contact switch instead. > > It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the hassle (since it's > totally > simple), it's the risk of letting air into the brake system every > time. > Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 21 11:09:31 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 10:09:31 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: <20080121.094349.3700.6.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: Well, I took the path of least resistance and just bought the replacement switch. I tucked in some paper towels around it, and leaned a 24" length of 4x6 on the pedal to provide slight positive pressure. Hardly lost any fluid, doesn't seem to have introduced any air. Addressing some of the other comments, I have not installed halogen bulbs, and I have always used Castrol LMA brake fluid, exclusively. So I am pretty much convinced the switches just have poor life expectancy. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/21/08 6:24 AM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote: > Max, > TDs use a similar switch. It's generally thought that replacement > switches these days are not as robust as the original switches. Perhaps > they are--perhaps they are not, but as many owners have installed halogen > bulbs, the load on the switches has increased. In an effort to extend > the life of the switches, many have installed a relay. In TDs, it's > easy and inconspicuous, and it wouldn't be difficult in the early MGB. > Bob > > On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:01:53 -0800 Max Heim > writes: >> Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's >> the >> goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or >> so. >> Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a >> brake-pedal-actuated >> contact switch instead. >> >> It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the hassle (since it's >> totally >> simple), it's the risk of letting air into the brake system every >> time. >> Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires From leylandauto at yahoo.com Mon Jan 21 11:16:12 2008 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 10:16:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <961830.77321.qm@web51902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Did you end up going with Moss, NAPA or Volvo dealer? Carl Max Heim wrote: Well, I took the path of least resistance and just bought the replacement switch. I tucked in some paper towels around it, and leaned a 24" length of 4x6 on the pedal to provide slight positive pressure. Hardly lost any fluid, doesn't seem to have introduced any air. Addressing some of the other comments, I have not installed halogen bulbs, and I have always used Castrol LMA brake fluid, exclusively. So I am pretty much convinced the switches just have poor life expectancy. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/21/08 6:24 AM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote: > Max, > TDs use a similar switch. It's generally thought that replacement > switches these days are not as robust as the original switches. Perhaps > they are--perhaps they are not, but as many owners have installed halogen > bulbs, the load on the switches has increased. In an effort to extend > the life of the switches, many have installed a relay. In TDs, it's > easy and inconspicuous, and it wouldn't be difficult in the early MGB. > Bob > > On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:01:53 -0800 Max Heim > writes: >> Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's >> the >> goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or >> so. >> Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a >> brake-pedal-actuated >> contact switch instead. >> >> It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the hassle (since it's >> totally >> simple), it's the risk of letting air into the brake system every >> time. >> Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 21 11:51:03 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 10:51:03 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: <961830.77321.qm@web51902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I bought the Moss part (Lucas box) from our local supplier. I wanted to get it done over the weekend since rain was predicted all week. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/21/08 10:16 AM, Carl French at leylandauto at yahoo.com wrote: > Did you end up going with Moss, NAPA or Volvo dealer? > Carl > > Max Heim wrote: > Well, I took the path of least resistance and just bought the replacement > switch. I tucked in some paper towels around it, and leaned a 24" length of > 4x6 on the pedal to provide slight positive pressure. Hardly lost any fluid, > doesn't seem to have introduced any air. > > Addressing some of the other comments, I have not installed halogen bulbs, > and I have always used Castrol LMA brake fluid, exclusively. So I am pretty > much convinced the switches just have poor life expectancy. > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 1/21/08 6:24 AM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote: > >> Max, >> TDs use a similar switch. It's generally thought that replacement >> switches these days are not as robust as the original switches. Perhaps >> they are--perhaps they are not, but as many owners have installed halogen >> bulbs, the load on the switches has increased. In an effort to extend >> the life of the switches, many have installed a relay. In TDs, it's >> easy and inconspicuous, and it wouldn't be difficult in the early MGB. >> Bob >> >> On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:01:53 -0800 Max Heim >> writes: >>> Last night I noticed my brake lights were inoperative. I'm sure it's >>> the >>> goofy pressure switch again. The things only seem to last a year or >>> so. >>> Maybe Moss could come up with a kit to install a >>> brake-pedal-actuated >>> contact switch instead. >>> >>> It's not the expense (since it's cheap), or the hassle (since it's >>> totally >>> simple), it's the risk of letting air into the brake system every >>> time. >>> Bleeding brakes on the B is quite tedious. >>> >>> >>> -- >>> >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >>> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Mon Jan 21 19:15:34 2008 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 21:15:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: References: <20080121.094349.3700.6.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <015c01c85c9c$ac0a2a20$041e7e60$@com> Early Series Land-Rovers also used the same concept, probably until about '67. I don't know if the switch is the same but you may want to check with Rovers North or British Pacific. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 1:10 PM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again Well, I took the path of least resistance and just bought the replacement switch. I tucked in some paper towels around it, and leaned a 24" length of 4x6 on the pedal to provide slight positive pressure. Hardly lost any fluid, doesn't seem to have introduced any air. Addressing some of the other comments, I have not installed halogen bulbs, and I have always used Castrol LMA brake fluid, exclusively. So I am pretty much convinced the switches just have poor life expectancy. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 21 19:32:34 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 18:32:34 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again In-Reply-To: <015c01c85c9c$ac0a2a20$041e7e60$@com> Message-ID: I would lay money on it being the same part number, in that case... on 1/21/08 6:15 PM, Stephen West-fisher at steve at coastaldatasystems.com wrote: > Early Series Land-Rovers also used the same concept, probably until about > '67. I don't know if the switch is the same but you may want to check with > Rovers North or British Pacific. > > -- > Stephen West-Fisher > Coastal Data Systems > 727.599.4271 > http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of Max Heim > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 1:10 PM > To: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake lights kaput ....again > > Well, I took the path of least resistance and just bought the replacement > switch. I tucked in some paper towels around it, and leaned a 24" length of > 4x6 on the pedal to provide slight positive pressure. Hardly lost any fluid, > doesn't seem to have introduced any air. > > Addressing some of the other comments, I have not installed halogen bulbs, > and I have always used Castrol LMA brake fluid, exclusively. So I am pretty > much convinced the switches just have poor life expectancy. > _______________________________________________ -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jan 21 21:50:06 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 21:50:06 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA connecting rods? Message-ID: <479575FE.8090004@bradakis.com> Anyone have a set of MGA 1600 con rods available? A while back in a parts package deal I got what was purported to be the bits for an MGA 1600 motor and the bits for a 1622 motor. Turns out that of the 8 connecting rods, 7 are for the 1622 motor and only one has the right small end to fit 1600 pistons. Shucks. So if you've got some of the right rods laying around, let me know. Thanks, mjb. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Jan 22 13:16:52 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 12:16:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] Attn: Mid-Atlantic Guys - SVRA in New Jersey! Message-ID: <566218.22222.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Opening this spring is New Jersey Motorsports Park in Millville, NJ (south Jersey, just south of Vineland). I was looking at their schedule and their inaugural event at their Thunderbolt Raceway is the Sportscar Vintage Racing Associate (SVRA) from August 7 - 10, 2008! Looks like it might be fun. http://www.njmotorsportspark.com/html/2008_event_calendar.html I know that the local SCCA chapter is planning on using this facility - which looks to be wonderful - for defensive driving courses intended for teenagers. My 18-year-old s looking forward to it already! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Jan 22 21:32:32 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 22:32:32 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGA connecting rods? In-Reply-To: <479575FE.8090004@bradakis.com> References: <479575FE.8090004@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4796C360.1040504@ktc.com> I can't believe it! After being almost drummed out of the corps online, I just got a "We Miss You" letter from NAMGBR. CR From wsthompson at thicko.com Thu Jan 24 18:21:22 2008 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 19:21:22 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] John Sprinzel's "Spritely Years" book Message-ID: <024401c85ef0$9a9ad720$cfd08560$@com> Here's your chance to get a copy of a book long out of print. Original copies have gone for hundreds of dollars on Ebay. John Sprinzel has reprinted "Spritely Years" after buying the rights and the acetates back from Haynes. This is a "must have" for anyone interested in Sprites, Healeys, Triumph, Ford, rallying, and a host of other cars John drove during his career. It's an honest, informative, funny look at John's life as a driver, tuner, manufacturer, etc. Only 500 copies were produced for the 50th Sprite year anniversary, so that they will still be fairly rare. He is selling them autographed at $65 including postage in the US ($71.00 overseas) . His address is P.O. Box 97 Kaunakakai HI 96748 John's e-mail address for this is johnsebring65 at gmail.com . He does have Paypal, (though he says, "I am not yet too sure how it all works"), otherwise US check or money order will do the trick. He'll have a few copies at the Sprite deal in May, and Tom Coulthard (co-author) might be there to sign them as well. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From jevans at mydb3.com Thu Jan 24 18:42:25 2008 From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 19:42:25 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Mgs] 12th British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble References: In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3876.75.57.124.236.1201225345.squirrel@www.mydb3.com> The 12th annual British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble will be held on February 24, 2008 from 8 AM to 3 PM at the DuPage County Fairgrounds in Wheaton, IL. Vendor preregistration forms were mailed several weeks ago to several hundred vendors and British car club addresses: if you are a vendor to this market and you did not get a preregistration form, please contact me off list for information; if you are a British car club officer and would like information about club participation, please contact me off list. Notification to individuals who have signed up for our mailing list took place last week. If you did not get one of our famous "purple postcards" and would like to get on the mailing list, please contact me off list. If you live in the Indianapolis, St Louis, Peoria, Rockford, Rock Island, Chicago or Milwaukee areas watch your Sunday newspaper on January 27 in the "classic car" (or equivalent) classified ad section for info on the British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble. This event now attracts both vendors and shoppers from throughout the midwest, with over 100 indoor vendor spaces and up to 1,000 shoppers in recent years. The location is in a suburban environment roughly 25 miles west of Chicago. Info can be had at http://www.britishcarswap.info or by contacting me directly off list. The British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble is sponsored by the Chicagoland MG Club and enjoys the support and participation of all the Chicago area British car clubs. FOR THE CHICAGOLAND MG CLUB Jim Evans 630-858-8192 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 26 14:40:14 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 15:40:14 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] overdrive tranny for sale References: Message-ID: <000201c86064$0f5c9160$800101df@garage.local> http://www.ranteer.com/tranny/ hello, all. i have a very intereseting tranny here for sale. it is newly rebuilt, and carries a 1 year warranty. it is for a 5 main bearing engine. its is a LH overdrive it is a close ratio, straight cut gearbox. for those of you who don't know, this is a racing gearbox. it is really not suitable for street. as straight cut gears are much "whinier" than a standard gearbox. $1500 plus $100 shipping to the continental US. thanks. From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 26 16:38:50 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 17:38:50 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] early B seat question Message-ID: <60BE43D7-3BA0-43A7-A42C-13E199D4D2C0@sbcglobal.net> The early B bottom seat frame is slightly wider on one side. Does that go to the tunnel side or the exterior side? Which side or sides does the seat slide handles go on? Thanks, Mike From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 26 17:03:36 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:03:36 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] early B seat question In-Reply-To: <60BE43D7-3BA0-43A7-A42C-13E199D4D2C0@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I would assume the wide side goes away from the tunnel, since tunnel clearance is the limitation to seat travel iin the forward direction already. I'm blanking on the adjuster handle; since nobody drives my car but me, I only use it when I vacuum the carpet annually. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/26/08 3:38 PM, Mike Duvall at duvallcom at sbcglobal.net wrote: > The early B bottom seat frame is slightly wider on one side. Does > that go to the tunnel side or the exterior side? Which side or sides > does the seat slide handles go on? > > Thanks, Mike From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Jan 27 07:31:10 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 14:31:10 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] early B seat question References: <60BE43D7-3BA0-43A7-A42C-13E199D4D2C0@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <00a101c860f2$99778c40$0200a8c0@Three> Fore and aft adjuster, and tilt handle, are nearest the sill. Recline handle nearest the tunnel. If the seat frame is tapered on earlier cars like it is on the later, i.e. narrower at the front than the rear, the tapered side goes against the tunnel. As do the seat covers! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The early B bottom seat frame is slightly wider on one side. Does > that go to the tunnel side or the exterior side? Which side or sides > does the seat slide handles go on? From rolindsay at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 11:03:54 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:03:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] early B seat question In-Reply-To: <924917.72721.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <318904.92022.qm@web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My seat slide controls are on the inboard sides, as are the seat rake adjusters. '70 MGB. rick --- Dan DiBiase wrote: > Mike Duvall wrote: The > early B bottom seat frame is slightly wider on one > side. Does > that go to the tunnel side or the exterior side? > Which side or sides > does the seat slide handles go on? > > ------------------------ > Mike, as you're aware, the seats are 'handed' - one > side slants in towards the front - that is the side > that goes next to the tunnel.It's subtle but you can > see it with the seat covers off, or from underneath > if they are recovered. I believe the adjuster > mechanism handle goes on the outboard side. My '65 B > seats are recovered but not installed, so I don't > have any hardware on them to check. > > > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that > smoke? > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... > '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Jan 28 11:08:27 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:08:27 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] early B seat question In-Reply-To: <318904.92022.qm@web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D368D39@kb1.mossmotors.com> Rick: Sorry to say, but your slide controls are incorrect. The slide control should be on the outboard rail. Rake adjusters are inboard, seat tip lever outboard. No big deal though, so long as you can still slide the seats forward if necessary. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Rick Lindsay > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:04 AM > To: Dan DiBiase; Mike Duvall; mgs > Subject: Re: [Mgs] early B seat question > > My seat slide controls are on the inboard sides, as are the > seat rake adjusters. '70 MGB. > > rick From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Jan 28 15:02:09 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 17:02:09 EST Subject: [Mgs] GT Progress Message-ID: I sent this earlier today, but sent it from the wrong email address, so here goes again. The BGT, since I replaced the pusher electric fan with an NOS plastic fan, never gets up to 180 anymore...just hovers around 175. I blew a hose on the oil cooler and had a condensor give up the ship at the same time, but have been driving it to work nearly every day since having those fixed. Last weekend I fitted Honda Del Sol seats and really like the fit (tight!) and the way they hold me in position. Much better than the worn out stock seats. I laced a Pep Boys leather stearing wheel cover on Saturday, and played with the windshield washer pump to no avail. I'm loving it. It's just how I remembered it from 1979! If I can just get the wind noise quieted down now, it will be perfect. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From ccrobins at ktc.com Mon Jan 28 22:20:34 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 23:20:34 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] GT Progress In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <479EB7A2.1020502@ktc.com> What, what? Nip seats? Somebody get a rope! (G) Glad you have it running and are enjoying it. Er, 1979? Regards, CR RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > The BGT, since I replaced the pusher electric fan with an NOS plastic fan, > never gets up to 180 anymore...just hovers around 175. > > I blew a hose on the oil cooler and had a condensor give up the ship at the > same time, but have been driving it to work nearly every day since having > those fixed. Last weekend I fitted Honda Del Sol seats and really like the fit > (tight!) and the way they hold me in position. Much better than the worn out > stock seats. > > I laced a Pep Boys leather stearing wheel cover on Saturday, and played with > the windshield washer pump to no avail. > > I'm loving it. It's just how I remembered it from 1979! If I can just get > the wind noise quieted down now, it will be perfect. > > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Jan 29 01:52:34 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 08:52:34 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] early B seat question References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D368D39@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <008b01c86255$d238f730$0200a8c0@Three> It also sounds like the backs are on the wrong seats. ----- Original Message ----- > Sorry to say, but your slide controls are incorrect. The slide control > should be on the outboard rail. > > Rake adjusters are inboard, seat tip lever outboard. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 29 07:46:34 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 08:46:34 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem References: Message-ID: <000201c86285$c09a28c0$800101df@garage.local> Here's a fun one. 73 mgb roadster in pretty good shape. all electicals work well. history of overdrive transmission completely unknown; got it super cheap. supposedly its a 71. been in my car for about 2 years and 10,000 miles. rear seal and clutch replaced when it was put in. 1st and 2nd synchros need to be replaced; overdrive generally works, although sometimes i'm not so sure - when you engage or disengage, there's usually a definitive "jerk" in the car and a distinct change in the rpm's that lets you know something happened. but not always. there are times when there is noticable slippage, especially in second. according to previous discussion, there are glazed surfaces. i can live with all that. for the second time in about 6 months or so, i've put it in reverse, let out the clutch and all i get is a loud whine, no movement. drive away, park, turn off the car. come back in a few minutes, restart the car, and reverse works. could this just be low oil level? i need to check that. is this something i should be worried about, as in will it strand me somewhere? i can deal with occasional no reverse. these cars are light ! thanks! From mgbob at juno.com Tue Jan 29 08:31:49 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 10:31:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem Message-ID: <20080129.103706.3440.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Oliver, Oil level is pretty important in these units, as oil provides the pressure to push the clutch to engage OD and to lubricate everything. Check it, fill to "Full" if needed, and see how the OD operates. Those things you mentioned are not good news, but they could be related to low oil level. Bob On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 08:46:34 -0600 "Oliver" writes: > Here's a fun one. > > 73 mgb roadster in pretty good shape. all electicals work well. > > history of overdrive transmission completely unknown; got it super > cheap. > supposedly its a 71. been in my car for about 2 years and 10,000 > miles. > rear seal and clutch replaced when it was put in. > > 1st and 2nd synchros need to be replaced; overdrive generally works, > > although sometimes i'm not so sure - when you engage or disengage, > there's > usually a definitive "jerk" in the car and a distinct change in the > rpm's > that lets you know something happened. but not always. there are > times > when there is noticable slippage, especially in second. according > to > previous discussion, there are glazed surfaces. i can live with all > that. > > for the second time in about 6 months or so, i've put it in reverse, > let out > the clutch and all i get is a loud whine, no movement. drive away, > park, > turn off the car. come back in a few minutes, restart the car, and > reverse > works. > > could this just be low oil level? i need to check that. > > is this something i should be worried about, as in will it strand me > > somewhere? i can deal with occasional no reverse. these cars are > light > ! > > thanks! From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Jan 29 12:16:25 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:16:25 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem References: <20080129.103706.3440.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <001101c862ab$714cb000$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Also beware, that the oil is of the same type as your engine. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Howard" To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 4:31 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem > Oliver, > Oil level is pretty important in these units, as oil provides the > pressure to push the clutch to engage OD and to lubricate everything. > Check it, fill to "Full" if needed, and see how the OD operates. > Those things you mentioned are not good news, but they could be related > to low oil level. > Bob > > On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 08:46:34 -0600 "Oliver" > writes: >> Here's a fun one. >> >> 73 mgb roadster in pretty good shape. all electicals work well. >> >> history of overdrive transmission completely unknown; got it super >> cheap. >> supposedly its a 71. been in my car for about 2 years and 10,000 >> miles. >> rear seal and clutch replaced when it was put in. >> >> 1st and 2nd synchros need to be replaced; overdrive generally works, >> >> although sometimes i'm not so sure - when you engage or disengage, >> there's >> usually a definitive "jerk" in the car and a distinct change in the >> rpm's >> that lets you know something happened. but not always. there are >> times >> when there is noticable slippage, especially in second. according >> to >> previous discussion, there are glazed surfaces. i can live with all >> that. >> >> for the second time in about 6 months or so, i've put it in reverse, >> let out >> the clutch and all i get is a loud whine, no movement. drive away, >> park, >> turn off the car. come back in a few minutes, restart the car, and >> reverse >> works. >> >> could this just be low oil level? i need to check that. >> >> is this something i should be worried about, as in will it strand me >> >> somewhere? i can deal with occasional no reverse. these cars are >> light >> ! >> >> thanks! From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Jan 29 12:36:38 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 14:36:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have the exact same thing happen to my car. The loud whine in reverse is due to the reverse overdrive lock out switch/circuit not working and allowing the overdrive to be "engaged" while in reverse. You really should check the circuit and check the lockout switch, probably the lockout switch needs replacing. Unfortunately it is on top of the tranny and very hard to get to with the tranny in the car, although not impossible. If the overdrive continues to operate while in reverse you may do damage to the overdrive clutch. Mark 73 MGB GT From: "Oliver" Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem for the second time in about 6 months or so, i've put it in reverse, let out the clutch and all i get is a loud whine, no movement. drive away, park, turn off the car. come back in a few minutes, restart the car, and reverse works. could this just be low oil level? i need to check that. is this something i should be worried about, as in will it strand me somewhere? i can deal with occasional no reverse. these cars are light ! thanks! From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Jan 29 12:43:05 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:43:05 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D453DAE@kb1.mossmotors.com> Mark: It is easy to check the reverse lock out switch. With the ignition on, actuate the OD switch. Check for power at the OD solenoid lead under the transmission. Have someone put the gearshift in reverse and make sure that there is no power to the solenoid when the shif lever is wobbled around in the reverse detent. While you are there, check the 3-4 lockout switch too. It would be a good idea to pull the coil feed wire, just to make sure there is no way the motor can start while you are under the car checking. Unfortunately this problem sounds more like a slipping planetary clutch though. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of mark.jones at exxonmobil.com > Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 11:37 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem > > I have the exact same thing happen to my car. The loud whine > in reverse is due to the reverse overdrive lock out > switch/circuit not working and allowing the overdrive to be > "engaged" while in reverse. You really should check the > circuit and check the lockout switch, probably the lockout > switch needs replacing. Unfortunately it is on top of the > tranny and very hard to get to with the tranny in the car, > although not impossible. If the overdrive continues to > operate while in reverse you may do damage to the overdrive clutch. > > Mark > 73 MGB GT From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 29 12:49:58 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:49:58 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Um, all you have to do is switch off the overdrive to prevent it being actuated in reverse. Hopefully all users are taking this precaution as a matter of habit. To be precise, there is no "reverse" lockout, as such -- it is an "all gears except 3rd & 4th" or "all gears except 4th" lockout (depending on year). If the OD switch is in the off position, and the OD is in fact engaged in reverse, then the damage has already been done. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/29/08 11:36 AM, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com at mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote: > I have the exact same thing happen to my car. The loud whine in reverse is > due to the reverse overdrive lock out switch/circuit not working and > allowing the overdrive to be "engaged" while in reverse. You really should > check the circuit and check the lockout switch, probably the lockout switch > needs replacing. Unfortunately it is on top of the tranny and very hard to > get to with the tranny in the car, although not impossible. If the > overdrive continues to operate while in reverse you may do damage to the > overdrive clutch. > > Mark > 73 MGB GT > > From: "Oliver" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem > > for the second time in about 6 months or so, i've put it in reverse, let > out the clutch and all i get is a loud whine, no movement. drive away, > park, turn off the car. come back in a few minutes, restart the car, and > reverse > works. could this just be low oil level? i need to check that. > > is this something i should be worried about, as in will it strand me > somewhere? i can deal with occasional no reverse. these cars are light > ! > > thanks! From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 29 12:57:44 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:57:44 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D453DAE@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: You seem to be describing a separate "reverse lockout" and "3-4 lockout" switch. I don't believe this to be the case. The two switches (on either side of the transmission) are the OD "lockout" switch, and the reverse lamp switch. The OD lockout switch cuts the OD circuit if the lever is not in the 3rd or 4th gear position (or just 4th gear on late cars). The reverse lamp switch completes the reverse lamp circuit when the transmission is in reverse (naturally). These happen to be the identical model of switch, just in different locations. There is no "reverse lockout" switch, as such. BTW, these switches used to be mislabeled in the Moss catalog exploded view -- I don't know if they still are. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/29/08 11:43 AM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote: > Mark: > > It is easy to check the reverse lock out switch. With the ignition on, > actuate the OD switch. > > Check for power at the OD solenoid lead under the transmission. Have > someone put the gearshift in reverse and make sure that there is no > power to the solenoid when the shif lever is wobbled around in the > reverse detent. > > While you are there, check the 3-4 lockout switch too. > > It would be a good idea to pull the coil feed wire, just to make sure > there is no way the motor can start while you are under the car > checking. > > Unfortunately this problem sounds more like a slipping planetary clutch > though. > > > > Kelvin Dodd > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net >> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On >> Behalf Of mark.jones at exxonmobil.com >> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 11:37 AM >> To: mgs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem >> >> I have the exact same thing happen to my car. The loud whine >> in reverse is due to the reverse overdrive lock out >> switch/circuit not working and allowing the overdrive to be >> "engaged" while in reverse. You really should check the >> circuit and check the lockout switch, probably the lockout >> switch needs replacing. Unfortunately it is on top of the >> tranny and very hard to get to with the tranny in the car, >> although not impossible. If the overdrive continues to >> operate while in reverse you may do damage to the overdrive clutch. >> >> Mark >> 73 MGB GT From shop at justbrits.com Tue Jan 29 13:50:39 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 14:50:39 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem References: Message-ID: <014e01c862b8$9b9b4d50$6401a8c0@actualshop> <> As Max said, damage already done!! Sorry. Ed PLEASE READ THIS!! ***************************************************************************** ********** You might enjoy registering for my "Joke (very BIG mis-nomer) Section" !! Over 400 videos of one type or another (and I have about 100 to put up!!). The process is painless and automatic (when this computer is on which is most of the time.) Then be SURE to watch the TWO Aircraft Carrier Landings in WM*s area (UN-real!!) and "Where/What is Dubai" in the PP*s area (some of the finest photography I have EVER seen!!). And if yer interested, I also offer a "Joke Mailing"!! Attachments ALLOWED (and encouraged) & adult stuff ALLOWED (and encouraged)!! Plain ole GROANERS also "allowed"!! Started out as just a bunch of grumpy Spridgeteers that wanted the type of List and couldn't find on. Was about 50 folks. Now well over 200 (BUNCH of lurkers). You can even opt for digest. Same program MJB switched to. Not a very busy one. Dec = 373 posts. Occasionally, there are even tech questions!! To join just send a mail to: 9iass-request at justbrits.com with NO "Subject:" and just the word subscribe in the body. Rest is automatic. If you happen to belong to any autox List, mine works EXACTLY the same!! I strongly suggest that upon receipt of Conformation mail that you go to the site listed and change the auto-generated password to one of your own!! Couple "T"s, 4 or 5 MGBers and 5 or 6 AHers. NO politics. Different List!! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Jan 30 01:54:47 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 08:54:47 -0000 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem References: <000201c86285$c09a28c0$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <006101c8631e$dda1b430$0200a8c0@Three> Firstly there definitely should not be slippage in 2nd gear, as OD should not be engaged in that gear and drive is through the locked one-way clutch, not the linings. However if the one-way clutch has been damaged, which happens if OD is still engaged when reversing, then it could well be dependant on the linings which will tend to slip in the lower gears. With some of the other symptoms it could well be that the lock-out switch is bypassed or has been in the past and damaged the OD, or possibly sticking closed occasionally but this latter would be extremely unusual. It's easy to check the lockout switch - simply drive along in 1st or 2nd flipping the manual switch in for a few seconds and out for a few seconds. If the revs change as they should in 3rd and 4th, then the lockout switch is not doing its job, pure and simple. Max is correct in saying there is only one lockout switch, which only allows OD to be engaged in 3rd and 4th (4th only on later American cars) and locks it out in all other gears. On a 71 is should be on the left side of the gearbox, with the reverse light switch (nothing to do with OD) on the right. If the lockout switch is functioning correctly all this is highly unlikely to be oil level. It could be caused by dirty oil and blocked filters. Drain the oil from the gearbox and clean the filters. Then refill with ATF, which is said to have cleaning properties. If that seems to fix things, possibly after a while, drain, clean and refill again. 20W/50 engine oil is the norm, although again some say that ATF works better in a marginal gearbox i.e. one with some problems. Failing that, it will need removal, stripping and rebuilding as there would appear to be a major mechanical problem. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > for the second time in about 6 months or so, i've put it in reverse, let > out > the clutch and all i get is a loud whine, no movement. From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Jan 30 12:23:00 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:23:00 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have experienced this "slippage" in reversed a couple of times. Stopped, pushed the wiper stock forward and then started reversing again. As mentioned good practice is to ensure that the overdrive switch is turned off, although I forget sometimes. And no, damage is not necessarily done. Can the overdrive actually work in reverse? Can the pump in the overdrive unit actually build pressure to engage the unit in the reverse direction? From: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem <> As Max said, damage already done!! Sorry. Ed From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 30 13:09:04 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 12:09:04 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My understanding is that it is a one-way clutch. Which is why reversing it is a problem. I can also see that the wiper stalk OD switch was a really bad idea. Way too easy to engage it by accident, and not even realize it (since nothing would happen if you were in, say, 2nd gear). I installed a dash switch with an idiot light that indicates that the switch is on, whether or not the OD is actually engaged. This reminds me to turn the switch off after downshifting, pulling off the freeway, etc. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/30/08 11:23 AM, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com at mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote: > I have experienced this "slippage" in reversed a couple of times. Stopped, > pushed the wiper stock forward and then started reversing again. As > mentioned good practice is to ensure that the overdrive switch is turned > off, although I forget sometimes. And no, damage is not necessarily done. > > Can the overdrive actually work in reverse? Can the pump in the overdrive > unit actually build pressure to engage the unit in the reverse direction? > > From: > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem > > < to the overdrive clutch.>> > > As Max said, damage already done!! > > Sorry. > > Ed From palte at gmx.net Wed Jan 30 14:17:33 2008 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:17:33 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080130211729.0E60B1C00088@mwinf6104.orange.nl> At 21:09 30-1-2008, Max wrote: >I installed a dash switch with an idiot light that indicates that the switch >is on, whether or not the OD is actually engaged. This reminds me to turn >the switch off after downshifting, pulling off the freeway, etc. Yet another option is to use a relay to engage the OD coil. The relay can only be engaged in case (1) the '3rd/4th gear switch' on the gearbox is ON and (2) a button is pushed to engage the relay. This relay remains self-energised until the '3rd/4th gear switch' on the box is OFF. This way, you can never forget to switch off the OD. This is basically how the OD is wired in one of my other cars, a 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dtchbrt/1390853857/ (I left out a detail about how to disengage, but that is very easy to figure out for yourself, as is the circuit diagram) Bert Holland From frankk at intap.net Wed Jan 30 14:22:39 2008 From: frankk at intap.net (frank) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:22:39 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: <006f01c86386$4495e1e0$f9810fce@D3N5Y331> With all the chatter here lately I thought it was an appropriate time to ask a question I thought I knew the answer to but now am not sure. I have a od tranny in a 1971 parts MGB and always assumed that it would not work in my 3 main 1964 B. Yesterday a friend who is a mechanic of sorts told me there is no problem installing an od tranny from a 71 into a 63 or 64 3 main B. I always thought the early 3 main Bs required a different od tranny and that's why they are so rare and expensive when you locate one. What's the real story? Frank Krajewski From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 08:53:57 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 07:53:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Mgs] early B seat question In-Reply-To: <60BE43D7-3BA0-43A7-A42C-13E199D4D2C0@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <924917.72721.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mike Duvall wrote: The early B bottom seat frame is slightly wider on one side. Does that go to the tunnel side or the exterior side? Which side or sides does the seat slide handles go on? ------------------------ Mike, as you're aware, the seats are 'handed' - one side slants in towards the front - that is the side that goes next to the tunnel.It's subtle but you can see it with the seat covers off, or from underneath if they are recovered. I believe the adjuster mechanism handle goes on the outboard side. My '65 B seats are recovered but not installed, so I don't have any hardware on them to check. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Jan 30 12:23:00 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:23:00 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have experienced this "slippage" in reversed a couple of times. Stopped, pushed the wiper stock forward and then started reversing again. As mentioned good practice is to ensure that the overdrive switch is turned off, although I forget sometimes. And no, damage is not necessarily done. Can the overdrive actually work in reverse? Can the pump in the overdrive unit actually build pressure to engage the unit in the reverse direction? From: Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem <> As Max said, damage already done!! Sorry. Ed From palte at gmx.net Wed Jan 30 14:17:33 2008 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:17:33 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive Noise/Shifting Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080130211729.0E60B1C00088@mwinf6104.orange.nl> At 21:09 30-1-2008, Max wrote: >I installed a dash switch with an idiot light that indicates that the switch >is on, whether or not the OD is actually engaged. This reminds me to turn >the switch off after downshifting, pulling off the freeway, etc. Yet another option is to use a relay to engage the OD coil. The relay can only be engaged in case (1) the '3rd/4th gear switch' on the gearbox is ON and (2) a button is pushed to engage the relay. This relay remains self-energised until the '3rd/4th gear switch' on the box is OFF. This way, you can never forget to switch off the OD. This is basically how the OD is wired in one of my other cars, a 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dtchbrt/1390853857/ (I left out a detail about how to disengage, but that is very easy to figure out for yourself, as is the circuit diagram) Bert Holland From frankk at intap.net Wed Jan 30 14:22:39 2008 From: frankk at intap.net (frank) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:22:39 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: <006f01c86386$4495e1e0$f9810fce@D3N5Y331> With all the chatter here lately I thought it was an appropriate time to ask a question I thought I knew the answer to but now am not sure. I have a od tranny in a 1971 parts MGB and always assumed that it would not work in my 3 main 1964 B. Yesterday a friend who is a mechanic of sorts told me there is no problem installing an od tranny from a 71 into a 63 or 64 3 main B. I always thought the early 3 main Bs required a different od tranny and that's why they are so rare and expensive when you locate one. What's the real story? Frank Krajewski From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Jan 30 14:26:04 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:26:04 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query In-Reply-To: <006f01c86386$4495e1e0$f9810fce@D3N5Y331> References: <006f01c86386$4495e1e0$f9810fce@D3N5Y331> Message-ID: <30030510-69E4-494D-8B8F-6922267B2833@gmail.com> The tranny is a bit wider, so you'd need to take a large hammer to the tunnel. And I think the input shaft is a bit different and so something in the pilot bushing or something needs swapping out. But it can be done. On Jan 30, 2008, at 3:22 PM, frank wrote: > With all the chatter here lately I thought it was an appropriate > time to ask a > question I thought I knew the answer to but now am not sure. I have > a od > tranny in a 1971 parts MGB and always assumed that it would not work > in my 3 > main 1964 B. Yesterday a friend who is a mechanic of sorts told me > there is no > problem installing an od tranny from a 71 into a 63 or 64 3 main B. > I always > thought the early 3 main Bs required a different od tranny and > that's why they > are so rare and expensive when you locate one. What's the real story? > Frank Krajewski > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 30 14:28:56 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:28:56 EST Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: They do, but you can stuff a late box into them. You would need the backing plate from an all synch trans to mate with it, a conversion bush for the back of the crank if the engine is a 3 main, and a hammer to administer a couple of taps for clearance in the tunnel. You'd also need to attend to flywheel and starter, no big deal. Bill In a message dated 1/30/2008 1:23:18 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, frankk at intap.net writes: I always thought the early 3 main Bs required a different od tranny and that's why they are so rare and expensive when you locate one. What's the real story? From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 30 15:04:03 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:04:03 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is basically what I did to put a 1977 OD tranny in my 66B (5 main engine). - New flywheel, rear plate and starter (the last is an unalloyed boon) - Conversion top cover for tranny hump to accommodate new rearward shifter location (got this from Doug Jackson -- don't know if it's currently available) - Wire up an OD switch (hole was already in dashboard) Don't know what the hammer bit is about -- I didn't have any clearance problems. But everyone forgets to mention the shifter location issue. You really have to do something about it, because the new location would be exactly where the rear flange of the existing top cover bolts on, so it would require cutting out two thicknesses of metal, at a funky angle, leaving you with no rear bolts on the cover, and no way to fit a trim ring around the shifter boot. The Jackson top cover requires you to cut out about 1 inch from the rear of the opening, and drill two new holes. You could do the same thiing by cutting up two factory top covers, and welding them together to make one longer one, with the shifter hole moved rearward. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 1/30/08 1:28 PM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > They do, but you can stuff a late box into them. > > You would need the backing plate from an all synch trans to mate with it, a > conversion bush for the back of the crank if the engine is a 3 main, and a > hammer to administer a couple of taps for clearance in the tunnel. You'd also > need to attend to flywheel and starter, no big deal. > > Bill > > > In a message dated 1/30/2008 1:23:18 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > frankk at intap.net writes: > > I always > thought the early 3 main Bs required a different od tranny and that's why > they > are so rare and expensive when you locate one. What's the real story? From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 30 15:17:25 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:17:25 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D45401C@kb1.mossmotors.com> Frank: Max aced me on the fast finger flying. I've never run into tunnel clearance problems that needed to be addressed with a hammer. If the engine and transmission are always removed as a unit, you don't usually need to do any clearancing of the tunnel. You only run into a problem if you pull the engine and leave the late OD trans in place. It is nigh on impossible to lift the front of the trans up far enough to mate up to the engine again. The starter hump hits the firewall. This take big hammering to fix. If you only pull and install the whole assembly, you never run into this problem. The bolt on tunnel cover does have to be modified to relocate the shifter boot and a small half circle to clearance the rear of the shifter. This was a very common modification back in the day. It is just as easy to install a late OD trans in the early car as the non OD trans. As Bill stated. You need the late flywheel, engine back plate and starter. If you have a 3M it won't work unless you get the back of the crank drilled out. I think Bill was thinking the other way around. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of WSpohn4 at aol.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 1:29 PM > To: frankk at intap.net; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] OD Query > > They do, but you can stuff a late box into them. > > You would need the backing plate from an all synch trans to > mate with it, a conversion bush for the back of the crank if > the engine is a 3 main, and a hammer to administer a couple > of taps for clearance in the tunnel. You'd also need to > attend to flywheel and starter, no big deal. > > Bill From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 30 15:26:26 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 17:26:26 EST Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: Quite right, Kelvin - pay attention to what I meant, not what I said (hard to think with screaming clients and phones ringing off the hook)! The other (easier) way to deal with sticking a later trans meant for a 5 main onto a 3 main engine is just to pop the input shaft out and get it turned down. Done that a few times for the MGA race car when running the pushrod motors. As for tunnel interference, I was taking the word of the MGB guys who always swear that the tunnel was modified on the late cars to clear that trans. Apparently not! I guess any mods were done to standardise for the V8 installation and didn't involve the tunnel? Bill In a message dated 1/30/2008 2:16:53 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: As Bill stated. You need the late flywheel, engine back plate and starter. If you have a 3M it won't work unless you get the back of the crank drilled out. I think Bill was thinking the other way around. From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 30 15:46:42 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:46:42 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D454032@kb1.mossmotors.com> Bill: The tunnel did get the heck modified out of it, but so did the diff. area when they went to the Salisbury rear axle assembly. Both got a bit of overkill, because it is always a good idea to leave more clearance than you may find to be necessary. Changing shell tooling is expensive! The tunnel was also modified to accept the automatic transmission, which is a bit wider than the 4 synch. trans. I don't think the V8 had anything to do with the tunnel mods, as although Rover had them in '68, there was no connection between the companies till the Leyland merger. Typically a wide range of power trains were considered when designing the chassis. I think I read somewhere that the B was initially designed to accept a V4 power plant. Shades of SAAB Sonnet II. The heavier 4 synch. trans. and Salisbury diff. did come out about the same time as the MGC was in development, so chances are that program got us a lot more heavy duty bits than we give credit to. Certainly both assemblies took the MGB from being a nice but slightly fragile car to being bullet proof. The V8 install used the regular MGB/C 4 synch. trans, so no further mods were necessary, till us spurious yahoos got in there with our Rover LT77 5 speeds. Kelvin. ________________________________ From: WSpohn4 at aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4 at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 2:26 PM To: Dodd, Kelvin; frankk at intap.net; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] OD Query Quite right, Kelvin - pay attention to what I meant, not what I said (hard to think with screaming clients and phones ringing off the hook)! The other (easier) way to deal with sticking a later trans meant for a 5 main onto a 3 main engine is just to pop the input shaft out and get it turned down. Done that a few times for the MGA race car when running the pushrod motors. As for tunnel interference, I was taking the word of the MGB guys who always swear that the tunnel was modified on the late cars to clear that trans. Apparently not! I guess any mods were done to standardise for the V8 installation and didn't involve the tunnel? Bill From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 30 16:05:09 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 18:05:09 EST Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: I know they were concerned about strength when they were designing the MGC and they went into it with the intention of racing, and had to homologate the cars with the same diff they'd use in street versions. From their experience with the Healey 3000 Rally cars that was the heavier C series axle. The Salisbury axle is the compromise and not a bad one, although heavier than necessary for the MGB (which is why I stayed with the early banjo style on the Jamaican. Bill In a message dated 1/30/2008 2:46:05 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: The heavier 4 synch. trans. and Salisbury diff. did come out about the same time as the MGC was in development, so chances are that program got us a lot more heavy duty bits than we give credit to. Certainly both assemblies took the MGB from being a nice but slightly fragile car to being bullet proof. From RampantNM at aol.com Wed Jan 30 16:25:50 2008 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 18:25:50 EST Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: In a message dated 1/30/2008 2:23:31 PM Mountain Standard Time, frankk at intap.net writes: I have a od tranny in a 1971 parts MGB and always assumed that it would not work in my 3 main 1964 B. Yesterday a friend who is a mechanic of sorts told me there is no problem installing an od tranny from a 71 into a 63 or 64 3 main B. I always thought the early 3 main Bs required a different od tranny and that's why they are so rare and expensive when you locate one. What's the real story? Frank Krajewski Your friend is wrong, it will never work...just sell it to me cheap....just kidding, I have no idea, but I certainly want to find one I can afford. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 30 16:56:04 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:56:04 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D454077@kb1.mossmotors.com> Bill: I noticed that you stayed with the early style rear end in the Jamaican when reading the article in "MGA". Good read by the way. I just dropped the rear end out of my MGA frame Monday night and had forgotten how light they were. Now if I can just persuade the one stuck front spring bush mounting bolt to unseize itself I'd be a happy camper. The wire wheel axles hold up pretty well, so you should be fine. I'd not want to try running a V6 through the steel wheel axles though as they tend to snap right at the flange even with the 4 popper. On my race car (65 MGB) I converted the wire wheel axles to accept bolt on alloys to get the best of both worlds. I'm planning on installing a Salisbury in my Miata powered MGA to get the 3.90 ratio and stronger axles. Kelvin. ________________________________ From: WSpohn4 at aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4 at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 3:05 PM To: Dodd, Kelvin; frankk at intap.net; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] OD Query I know they were concerned about strength when they were designing the MGC and they went into it with the intention of racing, and had to homologate the cars with the same diff they'd use in street versions. From their experience with the Healey 3000 Rally cars that was the heavier C series axle. The Salisbury axle is the compromise and not a bad one, although heavier than necessary for the MGB (which is why I stayed with the early banjo style on the Jamaican. Bill From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 30 17:25:07 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:25:07 EST Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: I haven't found the flange area on the solid wheel axles to be a particular problem, but I have snapped two axles at the inner end, both with coarse spline, which I am convinced is weaker. I use fine spline in the Jamaican and I am not a young drag racer so do not submit it to hard standing starts. Hopefully it will serve me well. I suspect that the fine spline axles in a Banjo axle would also work with the Miata - my race MG engine puts out more torque than they do and I've been getting by on coarse wire wheel style with it. The late axle is around 50 pounds of extra unsprung weight as I recall.... Bill In a message dated 1/30/2008 3:55:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: The wire wheel axles hold up pretty well, so you should be fine. I'd not want to try running a V6 through the steel wheel axles though as they tend to snap right at the flange even with the 4 popper. On my race car (65 MGB) I converted the wire wheel axles to accept bolt on alloys to get the best of both worlds. I'm planning on installing a Salisbury in my Miata powered MGA to get the 3.90 ratio and stronger axles. From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Jan 30 17:45:18 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:45:18 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] OD Query In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D4540AB@kb1.mossmotors.com> I'm setting the MGA up for drift racing, so want to make sure the rear end will hold together under boost when the MP62 blower kicks in. Figure about 160 ft lbs of torque at about 3500 rpm. K. : ) ________________________________ From: WSpohn4 at aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4 at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 4:25 PM To: Dodd, Kelvin; frankk at intap.net; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] OD Query I haven't found the flange area on the solid wheel axles to be a particular problem, but I have snapped two axles at the inner end, both with coarse spline, which I am convinced is weaker. I use fine spline in the Jamaican and I am not a young drag racer so do not submit it to hard standing starts. Hopefully it will serve me well. I suspect that the fine spline axles in a Banjo axle would also work with the Miata - my race MG engine puts out more torque than they do and I've been getting by on coarse wire wheel style with it. The late axle is around 50 pounds of extra unsprung weight as I recall.... Bill In a message dated 1/30/2008 3:55:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: The wire wheel axles hold up pretty well, so you should be fine. I'd not want to try running a V6 through the steel wheel axles though as they tend to snap right at the flange even with the 4 popper. On my race car (65 MGB) I converted the wire wheel axles to accept bolt on alloys to get the best of both worlds. I'm planning on installing a Salisbury in my Miata powered MGA to get the 3.90 ratio and stronger axles. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Wed Jan 30 18:02:33 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 20:02:33 EST Subject: [Mgs] OD Query Message-ID: Auggghhhhh!!!!!!!!! In a message dated 1/30/2008 4:44:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: I'm setting the MGA up for drift racing, From barrie at look.ca Thu Jan 31 09:50:06 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 11:50:06 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Britcot Message-ID: The recent missive from Lawrie Alexander of British Car Center makes me wonder if I forgot to tell you chaps (and chapesses) about the web site I put up for "cottage" industries. The site lists people who make bits for our classic mounts but are not in the main stream of advertising and/or promotion. The site www.britcot.com "advertises" several products from enthusiasts who have developed stuff that other enthusiasts could find of interest. While it is intended for non-commercial people it is open to unique items such as Lawrie's (oh god I hate to type this!!).........Lawrie's knobs.....please please please no corny jokes !!!! Regards Barrie Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm TRY www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 31 15:14:59 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 16:14:59 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] knob switch refurbishing References: Message-ID: <002b01c86457$641e0340$8215a8c0@garage.local> hi, all. i apologize for the bandwidth usage, but i've poured through my old emails and can't find what i'm looking for. there is a lister, i believe, who sells a "pen paint" which is very good for old switches. i bought it some time ago, finally got it out and tested it, and it worked great. i have no idea where it went so i need to order it again. thanks! From shop at justbrits.com Thu Jan 31 16:45:23 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 17:45:23 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] knob switch refurbishing References: <002b01c86457$641e0340$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <00b401c86463$59696b40$6401a8c0@actualshop> Oliver: <> Just look in TODAYS mail for one from Barrie about "Cottage". If you don't have check Archives for today. Ed From mgb72 at airmail.net Thu Jan 31 16:54:55 2008 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 17:54:55 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] knob switch refurbishing In-Reply-To: <002b01c86457$641e0340$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <002b01c86457$641e0340$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <00a601c86464$adbed0d0$093c7270$@net> Odd coincidence... See the website Barrie Robinson posted today, it has that very product on it. " The site www.britcot.com "advertises" several products from enthusiasts who have developed stuff that other enthusiasts could find of interest. " Coop '72B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:15 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] knob switch refurbishing hi, all. i apologize for the bandwidth usage, but i've poured through my old emails and can't find what i'm looking for. there is a lister, i believe, who sells a "pen paint" which is very good for old switches. i bought it some time ago, finally got it out and tested it, and it worked great. i have no idea where it went so i need to order it again. thanks!