From RampantNM at aol.com  Fri Feb  1 14:18:13 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 16:18:13 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Question
Message-ID: <bc3.20bc7954.34d4e695@aol.com>

Last weekend as I piddled with the B, I was under the dash, sort of, trying  
to get the headlight switch back together so the light from it did not show  
through the brake test gizmo, and I found a 6-8 inch steel rod, with a white  
plastic handle hanging down out of the darkness.
 
What is this?  I thought maybe the cowl vent? but I could not move it  in any 
direction.  I do have part of the dealer installed air conditoner in  the way.
 
Also, that brake test gizmo...how important is that.  I've had them on  
Midgets and such before, but never truly understood their funtion and  use.   I'm 
thinking I could add a clock or something in that  space.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri Feb  1 14:27:41 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 22:27:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Question
References: <bc3.20bc7954.34d4e695@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002901c86519$46bfc5a0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

The gismo light has in fact two functions:
1 = Brake differential warning indicator lamp
2 = Pressing this unit activates a test of this lamp

1 is activated, if there occurs a pressure difference between the two 
hydraulic brake circuits.
This happens when one circuit is leaky.
In my 1971 BGT the switch is defect and NLA - so there is no function.

The white handle does not ring a bell.

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 10:18 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Question


> Last weekend as I piddled with the B, I was under the dash, sort of, 
> trying
> to get the headlight switch back together so the light from it did not 
> show
> through the brake test gizmo, and I found a 6-8 inch steel rod, with a 
> white
> plastic handle hanging down out of the darkness.
>
> What is this?  I thought maybe the cowl vent? but I could not move it  in 
> any
> direction.  I do have part of the dealer installed air conditoner in  the 
> way.
>
> Also, that brake test gizmo...how important is that.  I've had them on
> Midgets and such before, but never truly understood their funtion and 
> use.   I'm
> thinking I could add a clock or something in that  space.
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
>
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Feb  1 14:56:48 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 13:56:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Question
In-Reply-To: <bc3.20bc7954.34d4e695@aol.com>
Message-ID: <407954.96002.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

RampantNM at aol.com wrote: Last weekend as I piddled with the B, I was under the dash, sort of, trying  
to get the headlight switch back together so the light from it did not show  
through the brake test gizmo, and I found a 6-8 inch steel rod, with a white  
plastic handle hanging down out of the darkness.
 
What is this?  I thought maybe the cowl vent? but I could not move it  in any 
direction.  I do have part of the dealer installed air conditoner in  the way.
 
---------------
Robert, that's the handle for the air door (flap) to let outside air into the footwell - it has 3 positions, full-open, half-open, and  only-slightly-leaking-air-and-usually-in-the-winter....




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From RampantNM at aol.com  Sat Feb  2 09:02:13 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 11:02:13 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Starter wiring
Message-ID: <cb6.22c1db37.34d5ee05@aol.com>

I just got my Doc Martin gear reduction starter in from Ebay and plan on  
installing it this weekend.  One big question though. When I took it out of  the 
box it appears to have one large lug for the hot cable, and one small  tab on 
the solenoid for the other wire(s).  If memory serves,  there are two wires to 
the solenoid now.  Which one do I hook up and what  do I do with the other 
one?
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Feb  2 09:29:24 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 08:29:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Starter wiring
In-Reply-To: <cb6.22c1db37.34d5ee05@aol.com>
Message-ID: <196776.97967.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Aaaa, that sounds like the ballast resistor bypass
that allows full voltage to the coil for easier
starts.  Robert, you can kludge this feature with a
relay, added to your ignition.  Here's the techno-poo:

A 9 volt coil saturates faster than a 12 volt coil. 
Therefore, it is arguably more reliable at high engine
speeds.  That is NOT why they're used on MGs.  The
real reason (and I'm sure someone will argue this
point) is that during the starting process, the
current load of the starter pulls the available
battery voltage down to about 9-10 volts.  This effect
drops the available secondary voltage by a similar
percentage, thereby reducing the spark potential. 
BUT, some clever British engineer discovered that if
one adds a ballast resistor in series with a 9-10 volt
coil AND bypasses the ballast resistor (only) during
start-up, the coil will see full operating voltage. 
Woohoo.  therefore, to generate the same effect with
your new starter, you simply need to place a SPST
relay across the ballast resistor, activated by the
starter circuit.  Doing so will effectively bypass the
resistor.

Regards,

rick
PS: The valves are done, everything repainted, head is
back on and I'm ready to adjust the valves in my MGB. 
Write-ups and photos no longer posted here but
available at the usual place, for anyone interested.

--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote:

> I just got my Doc Martin gear reduction starter in
> from Ebay and plan on  
> installing it this weekend.  One big question
> though. When I took it out of  the 
> box it appears to have one large lug for the hot
> cable, and one small  tab on 
> the solenoid for the other wire(s).  If memory
> serves,  there are two wires to 
> the solenoid now.  Which one do I hook up and what 
> do I do with the other 
> one?
>  
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
> 
> As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of
> the dual  Skinners Union
> carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet
>  pleasingly formed, 
> perched prominently on top of the intake manifold,
> aching  for experienced 
> hands, 
> the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging 
> to be inspected and 
> adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes
>  shop manual.
> 
> 
> 
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all
> time on AOL Music.     
>
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
> 48)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sat Feb  2 12:27:52 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 14:27:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] engine year
Message-ID: <001f01c865d1$b446acc0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

I bought a spare MGB engine recently and noticed that it had no engine
identification number plate, I been trying to figure out the year of the
engine but have no idea of where to start looking, the only identification
that is on the block is 12H1365, 12H1442 and 12H1777 and then to the right of
those numbers there is a AF3, anybody have any idea???

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Feb  2 12:43:49 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 11:43:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] engine year
In-Reply-To: <001f01c865d1$b446acc0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <164196.20428.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The blocks have a casting date clock molded into it. I believe it is on the driver's side of the engine. It will be a small circle about the size of a quarter or half dollar (cant quite remember).
  Carl

1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:
  I bought a spare MGB engine recently and noticed that it had no engine
identification number plate, I been trying to figure out the year of the
engine but have no idea of where to start looking, the only identification
that is on the block is 12H1365, 12H1442 and 12H1777 and then to the right of
those numbers there is a AF3, anybody have any idea???
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive


       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Feb  2 14:35:56 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 13:35:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] engine year
In-Reply-To: <164196.20428.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <977701.31339.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

That will give you the date that the casting form was
made - or at the latest, the date the block was cast. 


I went through this same thing with the engine in my
'70 MGB.  I have decided that it is a 1965.  the
evidence is weak but its there.  First of all, what
color is the engine?  Repainted, you think?  Burgundy
or black?  Look at the valve cover.  What's on it? 
The stickers, plates, etc., changes through the years.
 Shoot a picture or two and we may be able to help you
dig your way through this. :-)

Here's a look at my engine (before I started the
restoration), http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0493.JPG . 
The solenoid is NOT on the starter  and the valve
cover has the riveted on "MG" label AND the riveted on
patent label.

rick

--- Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com> wrote:

> The blocks have a casting date clock molded into it.
> I believe it is on the driver's side of the engine.
> It will be a small circle about the size of a
> quarter or half dollar (cant quite remember).
>   Carl
> 
> 1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:
>   I bought a spare MGB engine recently and noticed
> that it had no engine
> identification number plate, I been trying to figure
> out the year of the
> engine but have no idea of where to start looking,
> the only identification
> that is on the block is 12H1365, 12H1442 and 12H1777
> and then to the right of
> those numbers there is a AF3, anybody have any
> idea???
> You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
>        
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 16:34:05 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 15:34:05 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] engine year
In-Reply-To: <977701.31339.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Another clue to look for is what mounting bosses are drilled out. In
particular, the generator and alternator brackets bolt to different
locations on the block. I believe the alternator bracket holes would not be
tapped on a generator-era engine.

Then the side plates have different crankcase breathing arrangements, the
head may have a water choke takeoff, etc.

The Clausager book (Original MGB) would have more details of this nature.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/2/08 1:35 PM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> That will give you the date that the casting form was
> made - or at the latest, the date the block was cast.
> 
> 
> I went through this same thing with the engine in my
> '70 MGB.  I have decided that it is a 1965.  the
> evidence is weak but its there.  First of all, what
> color is the engine?  Repainted, you think?  Burgundy
> or black?  Look at the valve cover.  What's on it?
> The stickers, plates, etc., changes through the years.
>  Shoot a picture or two and we may be able to help you
> dig your way through this. :-)
> 
> Here's a look at my engine (before I started the
> restoration), http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0493.JPG .
> The solenoid is NOT on the starter  and the valve
> cover has the riveted on "MG" label AND the riveted on
> patent label.
> 
> rick
> 
> --- Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
>> The blocks have a casting date clock molded into it.
>> I believe it is on the driver's side of the engine.
>> It will be a small circle about the size of a
>> quarter or half dollar (cant quite remember).
>>   Carl
>> 
>> 1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:
>>   I bought a spare MGB engine recently and noticed
>> that it had no engine
>> identification number plate, I been trying to figure
>> out the year of the
>> engine but have no idea of where to start looking,
>> the only identification
>> that is on the block is 12H1365, 12H1442 and 12H1777
>> and then to the right of
>> those numbers there is a AF3, anybody have any
>> idea???
>> You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com
>> 
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>> 
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sat Feb  2 17:22:33 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 19:22:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

I'm getting ready to send my B's wire wheels out to a powder coater for
blasting and coating, I've been real happy with their work lately.  Does
anyone know of the best color/powder to use that will best match the original
wire wheel color? I want to try and match the colors as closely as possible.
Appreciate the help, thanks.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Feb  3 06:48:42 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 00:18:42 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>

Hi guys,

I just finished doing a little video clip for a team mate of mine who  
has a Costello MGBGT V8 as his price and joy (he races a V8 MGB race  
car as he doesn't want to damage the Costello... but it does see some  
competition work).

I grabbed a snippet off the end of the video that you might like to  
see (and hear).

http://www.erickson.on.net/movies/costelloV8mgbgt.mov

Here is what the same car looks like in full "flight" as the fastest  
MGB at our local hillclimb track.

http://www.erickson.on.net/movies/costelloatcollingrove.jpg

Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  3 06:55:47 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 07:55:47 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>

um, what does  "costello" mean?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8


> Hi guys,
> 
> I just finished doing a little video clip for a team mate of mine who  
> has a Costello MGBGT V8 as his price and joy (he races a V8 MGB race  
> car as he doesn't want to damage the Costello... but it does see some  
> competition work).
> 
> I grabbed a snippet off the end of the video that you might like to  
> see (and hear).
> 
> http://www.erickson.on.net/movies/costelloV8mgbgt.mov
> 
> Here is what the same car looks like in full "flight" as the fastest  
> MGB at our local hillclimb track.
> 
> http://www.erickson.on.net/movies/costelloatcollingrove.jpg
> 
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sun Feb  3 07:19:12 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 09:19:12 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
Message-ID: <c85.21df7771.34d72760@aol.com>

In a message dated 03/02/2008 6:02:19 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

um, what  does  "costello" mean?



That a gent named Costello created them.
 
Bill

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Feb  3 07:22:06 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 00:52:06 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
	<001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>

On 04/02/2008, at 12:25 AM, Oliver wrote:

> um, what does  "costello" mean?
>

That is Ken Costello.  He raced (Minis and other stuff) and then  
built a few V8 BGTs - initially for the factory.

Read all about it.

http://www.v8register.net/subpages/profileV8costello.htm




Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  3 07:31:36 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 08:31:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] dash repair - kind of ot
References: <164196.20428.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c86671$7ef915d0$800101df@garage.local>

hi, all.

my dash is in good condition, but my ultra cheapskate brother in law wants 
to fix the dashboard on his 20 year old pickup.

istr instructions somewhere on how to do this yourself???????

thanks. 

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 07:46:41 2008
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 09:46:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
	<001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
	<6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <76664a460802030646m3e3f2c0ct129244f16599f92f@mail.gmail.com>

I love Jessica at the end, how fitting.

Where's the rest of the vid?

- Steve

On 2/3/08, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
> On 04/02/2008, at 12:25 AM, Oliver wrote:
>
> > um, what does  "costello" mean?
> >
>
> That is Ken Costello.  He raced (Minis and other stuff) and then
> built a few V8 BGTs - initially for the factory.
>
> Read all about it.
>
> http://www.v8register.net/subpages/profileV8costello.htm
>
>
>
>
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bobmgtd at insightbb.com  Sun Feb  3 07:57:13 2008
From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 09:57:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Starter freezing up on cold days
References: <00af01c85594$5c207190$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <001301c86675$0f6ae690$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

I use my MGB as a daily driver. It's been a reliable starter-upper the last 
couple winters even below zero. But this winter the starter seems to 'freeze 
up' when it's cold. We've had cycles of rain followed by plummeting 
temperatures lately. Here's how the starter acts:

Turn key to starter position - Below freezing, not a peep out of the 
starter, but the solenoid is drawing normal current. Above freezing, no 
problem.

Hold key on starter position - If it's not too far below freezing, the 
starter will suddenly take off after 10 to 30 seconds. If the temperature is 
in the teens or colder, I have to use a hair dryer on the starter.

Does this sound like water in the starter solenoid? Is it a common problem 
on MGBs?

BTW, this car isn't garaged and is driven in the rain.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 09:39:50 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 10:39:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
	<001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
	<6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <688724FD-265B-49A2-B85F-A999C871C5A4@gmail.com>

He is the first to do the V8 conversions for the B. Initially, in a  
Roadster.

The factory thought the chassis wasn't strong enough so went with
the BGT.


On Feb 3, 2008, at 8:22 AM, Eric Erickson wrote:

> On 04/02/2008, at 12:25 AM, Oliver wrote:
>
>> um, what does  "costello" mean?
>>
>
> That is Ken Costello.  He raced (Minis and other stuff) and then
> built a few V8 BGTs - initially for the factory.
>
> Read all about it.
>
> http://www.v8register.net/subpages/profileV8costello.htm
>
>
>
>
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
'77 MGB
'99 OBS

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 09:43:33 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 10:43:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <76664a460802030646m3e3f2c0ct129244f16599f92f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
	<001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
	<6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
	<76664a460802030646m3e3f2c0ct129244f16599f92f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E50CC96C-E451-40ED-B9B7-E5E4C16F923F@gmail.com>

Isn't that "Rambling Man"?

On Feb 3, 2008, at 8:46 AM, Steve wrote:

> I love Jessica at the end, how fitting.
>
> Where's the rest of the vid?
>
> - Steve
>
> On 2/3/08, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
>> On 04/02/2008, at 12:25 AM, Oliver wrote:
>>
>>> um, what does  "costello" mean?
>>>
>>
>> That is Ken Costello.  He raced (Minis and other stuff) and then
>> built a few V8 BGTs - initially for the factory.
>>
>> Read all about it.
>>
>> http://www.v8register.net/subpages/profileV8costello.htm

From RampantNM at aol.com  Sun Feb  3 10:12:55 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:12:55 EST
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
Message-ID: <bb8.1fb12b11.34d75017@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/2/2008 5:23:03 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
dwillner at ptd.net writes:

Does
anyone know of the best color/powder to use that will best  match the original
wire wheel color? 


Dull silver with chips and flecks of brown and black near the bead,  dull 
grey black behind the spokes, and darkening to greasy black on the center  hub 
and spokes...at least all of mine have looked like this.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 10:14:32 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 11:14:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <E50CC96C-E451-40ED-B9B7-E5E4C16F923F@gmail.com>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
	<001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
	<6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
	<76664a460802030646m3e3f2c0ct129244f16599f92f@mail.gmail.com>
	<E50CC96C-E451-40ED-B9B7-E5E4C16F923F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <016763F3-BCAD-4573-891E-D3F8BC61CFDF@gmail.com>

Nope, you're right.  I pulled up "...Dollar Gas" in iTunes.



On Feb 3, 2008, at 10:43 AM, Paul Root wrote:

> Isn't that "Rambling Man"?
>
> On Feb 3, 2008, at 8:46 AM, Steve wrote:
>
>> I love Jessica at the end, how fitting.
>>
>> Where's the rest of the vid?
>>
>> - Steve
>>
>> On 2/3/08, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
>>> On 04/02/2008, at 12:25 AM, Oliver wrote:
>>>
>>>> um, what does  "costello" mean?
>>>>
>>>
>>> That is Ken Costello.  He raced (Minis and other stuff) and then
>>> built a few V8 BGTs - initially for the factory.
>>>
>>> Read all about it.
>>>
>>> http://www.v8register.net/subpages/profileV8costello.htm
>>>

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
'77 MGB
'99 OBS

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 11:29:53 2008
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 13:29:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <016763F3-BCAD-4573-891E-D3F8BC61CFDF@gmail.com>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
	<001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
	<6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
	<76664a460802030646m3e3f2c0ct129244f16599f92f@mail.gmail.com>
	<E50CC96C-E451-40ED-B9B7-E5E4C16F923F@gmail.com>
	<016763F3-BCAD-4573-891E-D3F8BC61CFDF@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460802031029t6d01dbb7hc129ddcf2a906af1@mail.gmail.com>

Its used as the opening theme to top gear.  I'm surprised you didn't
get the reference.

On 2/3/08, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:
> Nope, you're right.  I pulled up "...Dollar Gas" in iTunes.
>
>
>
> On Feb 3, 2008, at 10:43 AM, Paul Root wrote:
>
> > Isn't that "Rambling Man"?
> >
> > On Feb 3, 2008, at 8:46 AM, Steve wrote:
> >
> >> I love Jessica at the end, how fitting.
> >>
> >> Where's the rest of the vid?
> >>
> >> - Steve
> >>
> >> On 2/3/08, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
> >>> On 04/02/2008, at 12:25 AM, Oliver wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> um, what does  "costello" mean?
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> That is Ken Costello.  He raced (Minis and other stuff) and then
> >>> built a few V8 BGTs - initially for the factory.
> >>>
> >>> Read all about it.
> >>>
> >>> http://www.v8register.net/subpages/profileV8costello.htm
> >>>
>
> Paul Root
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
> '77 MGB
> '99 OBS

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Sun Feb  3 12:18:35 2008
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 14:18:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Starter freezing up on cold days
Message-ID: <21087526.386611202066315436.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web23-z02>

Congrats for using your B the way they were meant to be.  I drive mine (71BGT) year round also.  

Several yers ago, 30 years oor so after the warranty expired,  mine did the same thing.  The starter armature and the brushes were just plain wearing out.   Sometimes I would switch the key from on to start several times as the thing stoppecd on a "flat spot"

I replaced the starter since I do not know how to rebuild one and don't care to learn.  Yes, I know I look in my manual, order some parts and get the starter place to rewind the armature.   NAPA, I think,  ordered me one for around a 100$.  Been fine last few years............Mel
-

--- Bob Donahue <bobmgtd at insightbb.com> wrote: 
> I use my MGB as a daily driver. It's been a reliable starter-upper the last 
> couple winters even below zero. But this winter the starter seems to 'freeze 
> up' when it's cold. We've had cycles of rain followed by plummeting 
> temperatures lately. Here's how the starter acts:
> 
> Turn key to starter position - Below freezing, not a peep out of the 
> starter, but the solenoid is drawing normal current. Above freezing, no 
> problem.
> 
> Hold key on starter position - If it's not too far below freezing, the 
> starter will suddenly take off after 10 to 30 seconds. If the temperature is 
> in the teens or colder, I have to use a hair dryer on the starter.
> 
> Does this sound like water in the starter solenoid? Is it a common problem 
> on MGBs?
> 
> BTW, this car isn't garaged and is driven in the rain.
> 
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>                Olde Octagons of Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mvrose at charter.net  Sun Feb  3 14:40:59 2008
From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 13:40:59 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Master cylinder problem
Message-ID: <004401c866ad$77b20570$aa43ba44@Primary>

I replaced all hydraulic clutch components (clutch cylinder, slave cylinder,
rubber hose, etc) on my 1980 MGB about 11 months ago during a ground up
restoration.  I purchased the clutch cylinder from Apple Hydraulic who stated
I could use synthetic brake fluid since I replaced all components.  I just
checked the fluid (for no apparent reason but to see how it was doing) and
wiped a Q tip inside the reservoir and found a black looking substance on the
end of the tip and a small glob floating in the chamber.  I then drained  the
system and disassembled the slave cylinder and found the same substance on the
spring.  When I wiped the substance on my finger it stains my hand. The stain
almost looks like dissolved paint. I have a feeling the synthetic is breaking
down my rubber internals even though Apple said it would not.  The clutch
cylinder still works and pumps fluid.  Has anyone else experienced this and do
you think I have to replace the components or just flush it out with regular
brake fluid?  I also put synthetic in my completely rebuilt brake system but
have not experience any noticeable discoloration.  Any advise would be
appreciated.



Merl Rosenthal

1980 MGB

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sun Feb  3 15:58:13 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2008 16:58:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Master cylinder problem
In-Reply-To: <004401c866ad$77b20570$aa43ba44@Primary>
References: <004401c866ad$77b20570$aa43ba44@Primary>
Message-ID: <20080203225821.E760D187668@autox.team.net>

At 01:40 PM 2/3/2008 -0800, Merl Rosenthal wrote:
>I replaced all hydraulic clutch components (clutch cylinder, slave 
>cylinder, rubber hose, etc) on my 1980 MGB about 11 months ago 
>during a ground up restoration.  I purchased the clutch cylinder 
>from Apple Hydraulic who stated I could use synthetic brake fluid 
>since I replaced all components.  I just checked the fluid .... and 
>wiped a Q tip inside the reservoir and found a black looking 
>substance on the end of the tip and a small glob floating in the chamber.  ....

I had a similar experience with my MGA several years ago, but the 
other way around, when switching from DOT-5 to DOT-4 fluid.  I had 
been using DOT-5 fluid for 12 years and 130,000 miles with no 
probelm.  I thought it would be good preventative maintenance to 
change out all of the rubber parts in the hydraulic 
system.  Following the great brake fluid argments, I took the 
opportunity to switch to DOT-4 fluid for a long term test while 
installing all new rubber bits.  I drained and flushed the system 
with alcohol and blew it out dry during disassembly, then honed the 
cylinders and installed all new cylinder packing kits and hoses.

In 6 months time the fluid turned dark and brackish looking with 
little rubber bits included.  I flushed through all fresh fluid, but 
it did the same again in another 6 months, so I flushed it again.  At 
18 months the master cylinder started to leak, and the DOT-4 fluid 
was damaging paint on the heater shelf.  So I did the whole job 
again, drained and flushed with alcohol, blown our dry, repacked all 
cylinders with new rubber seals, and replaced all hoses.  I then went 
back to using DOT-5 fluid for no other reason than it doesn't eat 
paint if it leaks.  Since then, 6 years and 40,000 miles with no problem.

I would not blame DOT-4 fluid for my problem any more than you should 
blame DOT-5 fluid for your problem.  I suppose the root cause of the 
problem is bad rubber seals that deteriorate when exposed to brake 
fluid.  We have had sporadic rashes of bad rubber parts of all sorts 
over the past several years.  The problems come and go.

I wouldn't try to guess what rubber parts in your system are failing, 
cound be cylinder seal cups on either cylinder or the hose.  Silicone 
fluid should be a natural presevative for all sorts of elastomer 
parts.  When you remove the cylinder seal cups for inspection they 
should look almost like new with a firm smooth shiney surface and all 
the little molding numbers clearly visible.  Mine looked that good 
after 12 years of service with DOT-5 fluid.  If the rubber surface 
appears dull and porus, or it tends to rub off when you rub it 
between your fingers, you have found the bad pat.  If it turns out to 
be bad cylinder packing seals, Apple Hydraulics should have a two 
year warrantee on their rebuild cylinders.  It might be easier and 
quicker to replace the packing parts yourself rather than sending the 
cylinders back for warrantee exchange.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Feb  3 17:19:52 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 18:19:52 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch Master cylinder problem
References: <004401c866ad$77b20570$aa43ba44@Primary>
	<20080203225821.E760D187668@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <070501c866c3$a9a38160$6501a8c0@actualshop>

And IMHO...

<<It might be easier and quicker to replace the packing parts yourself rather
than sending the cylinders back for warrantee exchange.>>

a lot more reliable!!

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun Feb  3 20:43:59 2008
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 22:43:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] dash repair - kind of ot
References: <mailman.337.1202050596.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <008e01c866e0$30855110$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

> my dash is in good condition, but my ultra cheapskate brother in law
> wants to fix the dashboard on his 20 year old pickup.
>
> istr instructions somewhere on how to do this yourself???????

There is an interesting write-up about dash repair using bumper repair
products and spray-on truck bed liner here:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-restoration/15792-great-dash-repair-under-30-00-a.html

The links to the writer's web page about it is a dead link. You'd have
to sign up to the AlfaBB to see the photos in the link above (it's 
free to do so).

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Feb  4 01:38:36 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 19:08:36 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Costello MGBGT V8
In-Reply-To: <76664a460802030646m3e3f2c0ct129244f16599f92f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<2BA152ED-73DD-4C96-9616-F1B59F561722@erickson.on.net>
	<001101c8666c$ecbf72d0$800101df@garage.local>
	<6D55ECB5-C13D-4D76-A8F2-E5FE157CB061@erickson.on.net>
	<76664a460802030646m3e3f2c0ct129244f16599f92f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4F7669B-299A-4073-A132-27D302C9FE26@erickson.on.net>

On 04/02/2008, at 1:16 AM, Steve wrote:

> I love Jessica at the end, how fitting.
>
> Where's the rest of the vid?
>
>

:-)

There was more "Jessica" for the "credits" but I chopped them off as  
they weren't relevant for just that bit of the clip - and spreading  
it from my website may have got me in trouble with the owners of the  
music (I thought they wouldn't mind those few seconds of the song and  
I couldn't cut that out without wrecking the last bit of the VG8  
rumble).

And for the others... yes, there musical reference is for the Top  
Gear people amongst us.

The rest of the video was for something else and I don't think the  
guy would want me to spread it around (maybe later).

FYI more pix of the car are here (at the bottom of this page):

http://www.mgcostello.com/gallery.htm


Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Feb  4 08:53:23 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:53:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
Message-ID: <20080204.110248.3696.17.MGBOB@juno.com>

Dave,
   Ford used a color called   Argent   for its wheels at one time, and
that is thought to be closest to the color of the MG wheels.
Bob

On Sat, 2 Feb 2008 19:22:33 -0500 "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
writes:
> I'm getting ready to send my B's wire wheels out to a powder coater 
> for
> blasting and coating, I've been real happy with their work lately.  
> Does
> anyone know of the best color/powder to use that will best match the 
> original
> wire wheel color? I want to try and match the colors as closely as 
> possible.
> Appreciate the help, thanks.
> 
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Feb  4 09:17:08 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:17:08 EST
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
Message-ID: <c8b.22e58f34.34d89484@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/4/2008 9:03:49 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
mgbob at juno.com writes:

Dave,
Ford used a color called    Argent   for its wheels at one time, and
that is thought to be  closest to the color of the MG wheels.
Bob


I replied facitiously the first time, but guys on the Spridget list  suggest 
Krylon SIlver (Argent in French?) and a coat of matt polyurethane on  top.  
The polyurethan apparently kills the "bright" silver of the paint and  dulls it 
to match the factory finish.  Now, how that can be related to  powdercoating?  
I have no idea.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Feb  4 09:46:06 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:46:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
Message-ID: <20080204.114606.3696.24.MGBOB@juno.com>

  Krylon is OK stuff, but as they say "test on inconspicuous area" first
as it often blisters other paints. I was thinking of Duplicolor's  Ford
Argent.  It's not quite as brightly silver as some others. 
Bob


On Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:17:08 EST RampantNM at aol.com writes:
In a message dated 2/4/2008 9:03:49 AM Mountain Standard Time,
mgbob at juno.com writes:
Dave,
   Ford used a color called   Argent   for its wheels at one time, and
that is thought to be closest to the color of the MG wheels.
Bob
I replied facitiously the first time, but guys on the Spridget list
suggest Krylon SIlver (Argent in French?) and a coat of matt polyurethane
on top.  The polyurethan apparently kills the "bright" silver of the
paint and dulls it to match the factory finish.  Now, how that can be
related to powdercoating?  I have no idea.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG Midget

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 09:55:25 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:55:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] engine year
In-Reply-To: <164196.20428.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <593395.17667.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It's actually under the oil filter, low on the block, which would be the passenger's side (LHD).



Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com> wrote: The blocks have a casting date clock molded into it. I believe it is on the driver's side of the engine. It will be a small circle about the size of a quarter or half dollar (cant quite remember).
  Carl

1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:
  I bought a spare MGB engine recently and noticed that it had no engine
identification number plate, I been trying to figure out the year of the
engine but have no idea of where to start looking, the only identification
that is on the block is 12H1365, 12H1442 and 12H1777 and then to the right of
those numbers there is a AF3, anybody have any idea???



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From dwillner at ptd.net  Mon Feb  4 10:12:09 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:12:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] caliper and drum colors and finishes question
References: <20080204.114606.3696.24.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c86751$14121380$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

What is the original finish and color of the calipers and the brake drums on a
1970 MGB? I'm having the wire wheels refinished and thought I'd get these
cleaned up as well. The calipers look like they were flat black and the drums
seem to be semi-gloss black, I don't know if the original owner did anything
or not, the calipers look like they have the original finish...Appreciate the
help

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  4 10:21:08 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 09:21:08 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <c8b.22e58f34.34d89484@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C3CC8984.14E1D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I believe Krylon has a color called Dull Aluminum. Though I thought the
question was originally what *powdercoat* color should be specified. I
imagine that there is a standard powdercoat color of this type, as well,
though whether it is called Dull Silver, Argent, Dull Aluminum, or what, I
don't know.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/4/08 8:17 AM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/4/2008 9:03:49 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> mgbob at juno.com writes:
> 
> Dave,
> Ford used a color called    Argent   for its wheels at one time, and
> that is thought to be  closest to the color of the MG wheels.
> Bob
> 
> 
> I replied facitiously the first time, but guys on the Spridget list  suggest
> Krylon SIlver (Argent in French?) and a coat of matt polyurethane on  top.
> The polyurethan apparently kills the "bright" silver of the paint and  dulls
> it 
> to match the factory finish.  Now, how that can be related to  powdercoating?
> I have no idea.
>  
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 10:35:52 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:35:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <20080204.114606.3696.24.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <373664.9982.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I use Eastwood Detail Silver. I use 3-4 thin coats then when still wet I use 3-4 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Coat. I have had the opposite experience with Krylon Paints. I have found them to be the easiest to work with and most forgiving in use with other paints than any other brand. I wont touch Rustoleum 'in most cases' just because I have had so many bad experiences.
  IMHO YMMV
   
  Carl

Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
  Krylon is OK stuff, but as they say "test on inconspicuous area" first
as it often blisters other paints. I was thinking of Duplicolor's Ford
Argent. It's not quite as brightly silver as some others. 
Bob


On Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:17:08 EST RampantNM at aol.com writes:
In a message dated 2/4/2008 9:03:49 AM Mountain Standard Time,
mgbob at juno.com writes:
Dave,
Ford used a color called Argent for its wheels at one time, and
that is thought to be closest to the color of the MG wheels.
Bob
I replied facitiously the first time, but guys on the Spridget list
suggest Krylon SIlver (Argent in French?) and a coat of matt polyurethane
on top. The polyurethan apparently kills the "bright" silver of the
paint and dulls it to match the factory finish. Now, how that can be
related to powdercoating? I have no idea.

Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG Midget
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


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From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 10:39:27 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:39:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] powder coating for wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <C3CC8984.14E1D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <295596.24463.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

FWIW,
   Many people I know have had bad experiences powder coating wire wheels because of the inevitable break of surface at the spoke/nipple interface. It then leads to rust under the area that cant be refixed easily. I love powder coating but this is one part of the car I will always paint.
  Carl

Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
  I believe Krylon has a color called Dull Aluminum. Though I thought the
question was originally what *powdercoat* color should be specified. I
imagine that there is a standard powdercoat color of this type, as well,
though whether it is called Dull Silver, Argent, Dull Aluminum, or what, I
don't know.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/4/08 8:17 AM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/4/2008 9:03:49 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> mgbob at juno.com writes:
> 
> Dave,
> Ford used a color called Argent for its wheels at one time, and
> that is thought to be closest to the color of the MG wheels.
> Bob
> 
> 
> I replied facitiously the first time, but guys on the Spridget list suggest
> Krylon SIlver (Argent in French?) and a coat of matt polyurethane on top.
> The polyurethan apparently kills the "bright" silver of the paint and dulls
> it 
> to match the factory finish. Now, how that can be related to powdercoating?
> I have no idea.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG Midget
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http://www.team.net/archive


       
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From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 10:41:02 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:41:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] caliper and drum colors and finishes question
In-Reply-To: <000a01c86751$14121380$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <16426.63622.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The drums were black but I do not know the sheen. The calipers were painted in a bronze type color but I do not have a picture right now.
  Carl

Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:
  What is the original finish and color of the calipers and the brake drums on a
1970 MGB? I'm having the wire wheels refinished and thought I'd get these
cleaned up as well. The calipers look like they were flat black and the drums
seem to be semi-gloss black, I don't know if the original owner did anything
or not, the calipers look like they have the original finish...Appreciate the
help

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special
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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  4 10:50:06 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 09:50:06 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] powder coating for wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <295596.24463.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3CC904E.14E2E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I was wondering about this, too. Powdercoating of wire wheels seems to
presume that the wheels are permanent assemblies, which is certainly not the
case. They are flexible assemblies which require periodic adjustment. Then
there is the inevitable replacement of broken spokes -- it seems a little
impractical to send these out one at a time for powdercoating, as needed.

What might make sense is to powdercoat the rims and hubs separately, than
assemble with stainless steel spokes. But this is economically impractical,
in that the cost of paying someone to lace, true and balance the wheel is
prohibitive.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/4/08 9:39 AM, Carl French at leylandauto at yahoo.com wrote:

> FWIW,
>    Many people I know have had bad experiences powder coating wire wheels
> because of the inevitable break of surface at the spoke/nipple interface. It
> then leads to rust under the area that cant be refixed easily. I love powder
> coating but this is one part of the car I will always paint.
>   Carl
> 
> Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>   I believe Krylon has a color called Dull Aluminum. Though I thought the
> question was originally what *powdercoat* color should be specified. I
> imagine that there is a standard powdercoat color of this type, as well,
> though whether it is called Dull Silver, Argent, Dull Aluminum, or what, I
> don't know.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 2/4/08 8:17 AM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote:
> 
>> In a message dated 2/4/2008 9:03:49 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>> mgbob at juno.com writes:
>> 
>> Dave,
>> Ford used a color called Argent for its wheels at one time, and
>> that is thought to be closest to the color of the MG wheels.
>> Bob
>> 
>> 
>> I replied facitiously the first time, but guys on the Spridget list suggest
>> Krylon SIlver (Argent in French?) and a coat of matt polyurethane on top.
>> The polyurethan apparently kills the "bright" silver of the paint and dulls
>> it 
>> to match the factory finish. Now, how that can be related to powdercoating?
>> I have no idea.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Robert B. Houston
>> 
>> 74.5 MGBGT
>> 73 MG Midget
> _______________________________________________

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Feb  4 11:34:49 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 13:34:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
Message-ID: <20080204.134227.3696.26.MGBOB@juno.com>

Carl,
   I'll try Krylon again next time I need to spray with a rattle can. 
Perhaps the formula has changed, as I have avoided the stuff for years.
Thanks for letting me know that it has worked well for you.  
   Rustoleum is not without its problems.  While I have had good
experiences with the paint, experiences with the rattle can itself have
been frustrating.  Example:  3 of 4 cans of red used on last project did
not empty before the valve clogged. 2 of 2 cans of satin black clogged.  
I was able to clean the old-style valve but these that are set deep into
can top just don't clear for me.  The black cans had been on my shelf for
a year or so, but the red cans were fresh from the store. 
   SEMA News that arrived today has an article about the EPA rule and
paint shops. Amateurs may continue to strip and surface coat their cars,
up to max of two per year, and may continue to paint their cars with an
airbrush or hand-held, non-refillable aerosol cans.  (SEMA Driving Force,
Feb 2008, www.sema.com)
Bob


On Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:35:52 -0800 (PST) Carl French
<leylandauto at yahoo.com> writes:
I use Eastwood Detail Silver. I use 3-4 thin coats then when still wet I
use 3-4 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Coat. I have had the opposite
experience with Krylon Paints. I have found them to be the easiest to
work with and most forgiving in use with other paints than any other
brand. I wont touch Rustoleum 'in most cases' just because I have had so
many bad experiences.
IMHO YMMV

Carl

Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
Krylon is OK stuff, but as they say "test on inconspicuous area" first
as it often blisters other paints. I was thinking of Duplicolor's Ford
Argent. It's not quite as brightly silver as some others. 
Bob

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 11:55:11 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:55:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <20080204.134227.3696.26.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <135604.49722.qm@web51912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I know it works very well with Moss and Eastwood paints. I have had mixed to poor results with all other brands tried.
  Carl

Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
      Carl,
     I'll try Krylon again next time I need to spray with a rattle can.  Perhaps the formula has changed, as I have avoided the stuff for years. Thanks for letting me know that it has worked well for you.  
     Rustoleum is not without its problems.  While I have had good experiences with the paint, experiences with the rattle can itself have been frustrating.  Example:  3 of 4 cans of red used on last project did not empty before the valve clogged. 2 of 2 cans of satin black clogged.   I was able to clean the old-style valve but these that are set deep into can top just don't clear for me.  The black cans had been on my shelf for a year or so, but the red cans were fresh from the store. 
     SEMA News that arrived today has an article about the EPA rule and paint shops. Amateurs may continue to strip and surface coat their cars, up to max of two per year, and may continue to paint their cars with an airbrush or hand-held, non-refillable aerosol cans.  (SEMA Driving Force, Feb 2008, www.sema.com)
  Bob
   
   
  On Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:35:52 -0800 (PST) Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com> writes:
    I use Eastwood Detail Silver. I use 3-4 thin coats then when still wet I use 3-4 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Coat. I have had the opposite experience with Krylon Paints. I have found them to be the easiest to work with and most forgiving in use with other paints than any other brand. I wont touch Rustoleum 'in most cases' just because I have had so many bad experiences.
  IMHO YMMV
   
  Carl

Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
  Krylon is OK stuff, but as they say "test on inconspicuous area" first
as it often blisters other paints. I was thinking of Duplicolor's Ford
Argent. It's not quite as brightly silver as some others. 
Bob


       
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From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 11:56:41 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:56:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Spray paint DOH!
In-Reply-To: <135604.49722.qm@web51912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <782751.34059.qm@web51911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

What I meant to say was that the other brands of rattle can have not worked well for me. I figured I had to clarify.
  carl

Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com> wrote:
  I know it works very well with Moss and Eastwood paints. I have had mixed to poor results with all other brands tried.
Carl

Bob Howard wrote:
Carl,
I'll try Krylon again next time I need to spray with a rattle can. Perhaps the formula has changed, as I have avoided the stuff for years. Thanks for letting me know that it has worked well for you. 
Rustoleum is not without its problems. While I have had good experiences with the paint, experiences with the rattle can itself have been frustrating. Example: 3 of 4 cans of red used on last project did not empty before the valve clogged. 2 of 2 cans of satin black clogged. I was able to clean the old-style valve but these that are set deep into can top just don't clear for me. The black cans had been on my shelf for a year or so, but the red cans were fresh from the store. 
SEMA News that arrived today has an article about the EPA rule and paint shops. Amateurs may continue to strip and surface coat their cars, up to max of two per year, and may continue to paint their cars with an airbrush or hand-held, non-refillable aerosol cans. (SEMA Driving Force, Feb 2008, www.sema.com)
Bob


On Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:35:52 -0800 (PST) Carl French writes:
I use Eastwood Detail Silver. I use 3-4 thin coats then when still wet I use 3-4 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Coat. I have had the opposite experience with Krylon Paints. I have found them to be the easiest to work with and most forgiving in use with other paints than any other brand. I wont touch Rustoleum 'in most cases' just because I have had so many bad experiences.
IMHO YMMV

Carl

Bob Howard wrote:
Krylon is OK stuff, but as they say "test on inconspicuous area" first
as it often blisters other paints. I was thinking of Duplicolor's Ford
Argent. It's not quite as brightly silver as some others. 
Bob



---------------------------------
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From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Feb  4 11:59:09 2008
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 13:59:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
Message-ID: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car 
running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits 
immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil, points, 
condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
TIA,
Dave Houser

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 12:03:39 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:03:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <20080204.134227.3696.26.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <276553.79780.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Gang,

As you folks know, I am less of a stickler for color
than most MG enthusiasts.  I guess that feeling comes
from my roots with Italian cars where the general
opinion is that the car is under the paint, not part
of it.  Of course, the Corvette guys are the extreme
case where a car is incorrect is the paint code is
wrong.

I plan to paint my wire wheels with PlastiCoat
aluminum wheel paint then over-spray them with clear. 
That second step, as someone here posted, tends to
smooth-out the just-painted-with-hardware-store-paint
look.

And I agree with the powder-coating being potentially
problematic.  The window frames and all other aluminum
trim on my 308GTB are powder-coated satin black and
its a great, tough finish BUT the concerns about the
screw threads are genuine and could potentially
preclude adjustments in the future.  Paint is just
easier and refinish-able.  Much cheaper too.

rick

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Mon Feb  4 12:13:34 2008
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 14:13:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
Message-ID: <2318194.472101202152414775.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web05-z02>

look for a tow truck
---- dave houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: 
> Listers,
> Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car 
> running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits 
> immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil, points, 
> condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
> It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
> TIA,
> Dave Houser
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Feb  4 12:19:33 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 13:19:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
In-Reply-To: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080204131341.038c3d38@nosimport.com>

Does the tach move whist cranking?
  If no, then the low tension side, or primary, is not working, or 
points are grounded.
If yes, then the problem will be secondary or high tension side... 
wires, cap, rotor, etc. Or.... of course fuel delivery.
         Peter C
(Oh, and I used to drive a Plymouth Champ, once.... you don't want 
your MG running like that! ;-)
===
At 12:59 PM 2/4/2008, dave houser wrote:

>Listers,
>Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car
>running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits
>immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil, points,
>condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
>It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
>TIA,
>Dave Houser

From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Feb  4 12:37:19 2008
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 14:37:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
References: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <005e01c86765$5b8c2c50$f927fc40@DESKTOP>

Just a guess. Check for the carbon contact in the inside center of the dizzy 
cap.

Mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dave houser" <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:59 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget


> Listers,
> Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car
> running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits
> immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil, points,
> condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
> It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
> TIA,
> Dave Houser

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Feb  4 12:39:49 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:39:49 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
In-Reply-To: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10802041139p50bc9ba6yfb5e2995c3031e2a@mail.gmail.com>

Are points installed correctly?
Are they wired correctly (power lead not permanently grounded)
Are the points adjusted correctly?
Has an LT lead fallen off the coil?
Is there power at the positive side of the coil with the key on? (if no, ign
key circuit)
With the points open is there power at the neg side of the coil with the key
on? (If no points are grounded or possibly tach has issues)
Does power go away at the neg terminal of the coil with the points closed?
(if power is still available at coil neg with points closed, either points
are wired wrong, or the ground lead in the distributor is bad.)
Has your friend checked for spark at the coil, not just at a plug lead.
Caps and rotors can be bad.
OH yeah, one last thing.  He didn't leave the rotor in his pocket did he?
:-)
Rick

On Feb 4, 2008 10:59 AM, dave houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> Listers,
> Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car
> running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits
> immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil, points,
> condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
> It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
> TIA,
> Dave Houser
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 12:59:41 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:59:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080204131341.038c3d38@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <497980.44522.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Peter C <peter at nosimport.com> wrote: Does the tach move whist cranking?
  If no, then the low tension side, or primary, is not working, or 
points are grounded.
If yes, then the problem will be secondary or high tension side... 
wires, cap, rotor, etc. Or.... of course fuel delivery.
         Peter C
(Oh, and I used to drive a Plymouth Champ, once.... you don't want 
your MG running like that! ;-)
------------------------
Hey, I had a Dodge Colt that ran GREAT! I wish my MG's ran like it! Of course, the '65 is stull half-restored (okay, half taken apart) and the '76's engine is strewn around my garage..... But the Colt, my first new car back in '82, always did fine by me.


      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Feb  4 13:43:32 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 14:43:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
In-Reply-To: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <B3FD49C2-2691-43DE-8FB7-3A5825135783@gmail.com>

LT to the coil?


On Feb 4, 2008, at 12:59 PM, dave houser wrote:

> Listers,
> Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car
> running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits
> immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil,  
> points,
> condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
> It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
> TIA,
> Dave Houser

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Feb  4 13:45:33 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:45:33 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
In-Reply-To: <B3FD49C2-2691-43DE-8FB7-3A5825135783@gmail.com>
References: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
	<B3FD49C2-2691-43DE-8FB7-3A5825135783@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10802041245n518050cgf035b138964e77f3@mail.gmail.com>

Low tension lead.  In other words the low voltage wires to the positive and
negative leads on the coil.  British shop manual usage.

On Feb 4, 2008 12:43 PM, Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> LT to the coil?
>
>
> On Feb 4, 2008, at 12:59 PM, dave houser wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> > Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car
> > running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits
> > immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil,
> > points,
> > condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
> > It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
> > TIA,
> > Dave Houser
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Mon Feb  4 13:47:28 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 14:47:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
In-Reply-To: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <47A779E0.20905@gmail.com>

dave houser wrote:
> Listers,
> Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car 
> running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits 
> immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil, points, 
> condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
> It cranks, but no start. No spark to points. What should he look for?
In general, what I look for is the following:

Might be rotor. Remove diz cap. turn on ignition IN NEUTRAL. Place 
quarter-sized coin across the center terminal of cap and one of the plug 
terminals. Pop the points with an insulated screwdriver. If you get 
spark this way, but not with it all back together, the rotor is bad.

Other possibilities:

Bad ignition switch.

Coil.   Make sure the coil is getting 12v.

Points setting gone bad.

Timing wrong  Diz might have moved.

BUT --

If he's right that there's no 12v to points - that's where to search out 
the disconnect.

Work back from the diz.

-The Roxter
--

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Mon Feb  4 15:54:50 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 17:54:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <47A797BA.9050305@snet.net>

I believe it is difficult to specify a color because there is little 
standardization in colors available.  I lucked out a few years ago 
buying out the end of a lot from Surpluspowdercoating.com and I got what 
I think is a nice blend.  I can't vouch for it's accuracy in comparison 
to other "standards" but it worked well for me on other items.  I 
haven't done spoke wheels.

The comments about concerns that the wheel is a dynamic piece subject to 
movement shouldn't cause concern.  PC is simply a paint that is applied 
differently.  It will work at least as well, and usually better, than 
paint on any item.  There are different blends, some more flexible than 
others (e.g., epoxy, polyurethane, etc.), in a variety of different 
gloss levels and color.  The one I have is a satin finish.  In doing my 
own, I learned that the gloss finishes have a tougher time applying to 
sharp edges; tends to bleed away when curing.

See if your powder coater can show you some samples.

Jim

Dave Willner wrote:
> I'm getting ready to send my B's wire wheels out to a powder coater for
> blasting and coating, I've been real happy with their work lately.  Does
> anyone know of the best color/powder to use that will best match the original
> wire wheel color? I want to try and match the colors as closely as possible.
> Appreciate the help, thanks.
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
> _______________________________________________

From jkk at adams.net  Mon Feb  4 18:25:47 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 19:25:47 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] powder coat color for wire wheels
References: <C3CA3DED.14D7C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><000b01c865fa$df0beff0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<47A797BA.9050305@snet.net>
Message-ID: <004501c86796$09312470$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

My local powder coating shop has literally hundreds of colors to chose from. 
I'm sure most places can match nearly any color if you can pick it out of 
their color chips.

 As far as spray paint goes, Ford sells a high-solids argent spray paint 
that I've used a lot. It looks really straange when wet but dries to a nice 
even argent color. I can't remeber the part number just now but your local 
dealer should be able to hook you up.

Jim 

From UnclStevie at aol.com  Mon Feb  4 20:13:22 2008
From: UnclStevie at aol.com (UnclStevie at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 22:13:22 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 9, Issue 6
Message-ID: <c59.24f049ec.34d92e52@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/4/2008 2:03:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
mgs-request at autox.team.net writes:

Listers,
Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74  Midget. Car 
running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits  
immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. Replaces coil, points,  
condenser. Still no power to plugs. Dead.
It cranks, but no start. No  spark to points. What should he look for?
TIA,
Dave  Houser



The key?
 
Steve Edelstein
 



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Tue Feb  5 05:49:20 2008
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 07:49:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] color for wire wheels-- paint
In-Reply-To: <276553.79780.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <276553.79780.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a06230900c3ce0ae43faf@[128.151.164.253]>

Hi, have painted a lot of ww and have found that Krylon lacquer " 
dull aluminum"  is a good match.  Available at most  hardware stores 
at a very reasonable $$.

paul
-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From dwillner at ptd.net  Tue Feb  5 06:27:49 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 08:27:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
References: <002601c8677a$6d0d0520$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<BBE8B3CB-4525-4A61-8648-E55423EA0269@blakedischer.com>
	<001801c86797$c5843e40$aa1e7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <001501c867fa$e7f558c0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

I do have both Argent and Detail silver from Eastwood in spray cans. The 
Detail Silver, says "Correct for wire wheels," but swatches look exactly the 
same, side by side. I'll follow up with Eastwoods for the Powder numbers.

Thanks to all for the advice and help, appreciate it.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
To: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "Dave Willner" 
<dwillner at ptd.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number


> Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
> ===============================================================================================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
> To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
>
>
>> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
>> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Blake Discher
>>
>>
>> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
>>
>>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
>>> seem to
>>> find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
>>> hundred or so
>>> swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the original paint
>>> that looks
>>> pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a hint of
>>> yellow (not
>>> sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had this done
>>> and have an
>>> excellent match you're happy with that you could help me out with?
>>> Appreciate
>>> the help.
>>>
>>> Dave Willner
>>> Stroudsburg, PA
>>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
>>> 70 MGB BRG
>>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>>> http://www.vtr.org
>>>
>>>
>>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as bdischer at blakedischer.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From RampantNM at aol.com  Tue Feb  5 12:47:34 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 14:47:34 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Power Window Kit
Message-ID: <bdc.232085be.34da1756@aol.com>

Well, I can't say I wasn't warned.
 
Paul T told me the Victoria British power window kit would not fit an  MGB.  
I called their order line and asked if they were sure it would work  and the 
lady put me on hold for a few minutes, came back and assured me it  would.
 
So I ordered it last week and it came in today, and sure enough, there is  no 
way it will work on an MGB.  The installation instructions list a number  of 
cars it will fit, but no MGs.  
 
The device works by attaching to the splined shaft from the window winder  
that the old handle fits on.  As we all know, this is not a splined shaft  but a 
largish plastic octogan on the MGB.
 
I called them back today and was assured they had sold thousands of these  
and never had one returned.  Well, either there are thousands of suckers  out 
there, or thousands of people smart enough to make these work, or I'm stupid  
and missed something.
 
They are issuing a call tag and UPS will pick them up next week for  them.  
In the meantime, I guess I should call my credit card company?
 
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Feb  5 13:02:43 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 12:02:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Power Window Kit
In-Reply-To: <bdc.232085be.34da1756@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D454845@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Robert:

I don't want this taken as horn tooting, but just for info only.

The kit Moss carries is made by a German company and is designed
specifically for the MGB. It totally replaces the original winder and
lift mechanisms.

If you are interested, I can send you a copy of the installation
instructions.


I brought it in from Moss UK, so it's kinda my baby.



Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of RampantNM at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 11:48 AM
> To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Power Window Kit
>
> Well, I can't say I wasn't warned.
>
> Paul T told me the Victoria British power window kit would
> not fit an  MGB.
> I called their order line and asked if they were sure it
> would work  and the lady put me on hold for a few minutes,
> came back and assured me it  would.
>
> So I ordered it last week and it came in today, and sure
> enough, there is  no way it will work on an MGB.  The
> installation instructions list a number  of cars it will fit,
> but no MGs.
>
> The device works by attaching to the splined shaft from the
> window winder that the old handle fits on.  As we all know,
> this is not a splined shaft  but a largish plastic octogan on the MGB.
>
> I called them back today and was assured they had sold
> thousands of these and never had one returned.  Well, either
> there are thousands of suckers  out there, or thousands of
> people smart enough to make these work, or I'm stupid and
> missed something.
>
> They are issuing a call tag and UPS will pick them up next
> week for  them.
> In the meantime, I guess I should call my credit card company?
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
>
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Feb  5 13:41:20 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 12:41:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Power Window Kit
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D454845@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <549778.27072.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'll toot the horn.  

I have had numerous problems with VB - not the least
of which is outlandish shipping and handling charges! 
Moss isn't cheap but it beats VB hands down.

rick


--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> Robert:
> 
> I don't want this taken as horn tooting, but just
> for info only.
> 
> The kit Moss carries is made by a German company and
> is designed
> specifically for the MGB. It totally replaces the
> original winder and
> lift mechanisms.
> 
> If you are interested, I can send you a copy of the
> installation
> instructions.
> 
> 
> I brought it in from Moss UK, so it's kinda my baby.
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> >
>
[mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net]
> On
> > Behalf Of RampantNM at aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 11:48 AM
> > To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Mgs] Power Window Kit
> >
> > Well, I can't say I wasn't warned.
> >
> > Paul T told me the Victoria British power window
> kit would
> > not fit an  MGB.
> > I called their order line and asked if they were
> sure it
> > would work  and the lady put me on hold for a few
> minutes,
> > came back and assured me it  would.
> >
> > So I ordered it last week and it came in today,
> and sure
> > enough, there is  no way it will work on an MGB. 
> The
> > installation instructions list a number  of cars
> it will fit,
> > but no MGs.
> >
> > The device works by attaching to the splined shaft
> from the
> > window winder that the old handle fits on.  As we
> all know,
> > this is not a splined shaft  but a largish plastic
> octogan on the MGB.
> >
> > I called them back today and was assured they had
> sold
> > thousands of these and never had one returned. 
> Well, either
> > there are thousands of suckers  out there, or
> thousands of
> > people smart enough to make these work, or I'm
> stupid and
> > missed something.
> >
> > They are issuing a call tag and UPS will pick them
> up next
> > week for  them.
> > In the meantime, I guess I should call my credit
> card company?
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Robert B. Houston
> >
> > 74.5 MGBGT
> > 73 MG  Midget
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Feb  5 13:43:15 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 12:43:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Power Window Kit
In-Reply-To: <549778.27072.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <616582.41457.qm@web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Okay, I wrote "Moss isn't cheap" but I am wrong. 
Compared to parts in yellow boxes with black horses on
them, EVERYTHING is cheap - even gasoline/petrol which
is now sold by the molecule!!!  :-P

rick

--- Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I'll toot the horn.  
> 
> I have had numerous problems with VB - not the least
> of which is outlandish shipping and handling
> charges! 
> Moss isn't cheap but it beats VB hands down.
> 
> rick

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Feb  5 20:09:08 2008
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 22:09:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Holy Sills (MGA inner sill ?)
Message-ID: <000801c8686d$b5cb4260$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

I have been following Barney Gaylord's MGA body sill replacement as I 
am doing the same job on my MGA (but not as quickly...).

I have a question about the inner sills. There are three holes near 
the lower edge - I understand these are to allow drainage.

But what are the two larger 'flanged' holes for? Do they add some 
stiffness to the panel?

Pictures of Barney's MGA's inner sills here:
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt610.htm

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Feb  6 07:19:36 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2008 08:19:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Holy Sills (MGA inner sill ?)
In-Reply-To: <000801c8686d$b5cb4260$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
References: <000801c8686d$b5cb4260$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <20080206141940.CFA2018787F@autox.team.net>

At 10:09 PM 2/5/2008 -0500, Eric J Russell wrote:
>I have been following Barney Gaylord's MGA body sill replacement as I
>am doing the same job on my MGA (but not as quickly...).
>
>I have a question about the inner sills. There are three holes near
>the lower edge - I understand these are to allow drainage.
>
>But what are the two larger 'flanged' holes for? Do they add some
>stiffness to the panel?
>
>Pictures of Barney's MGA's inner sills here:
>http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt610.htm

The larger holes are for ventilation to allow the box section to dry 
out after collecting  copious amounts of moisture from condensation 
(or sometimes submersion or heavy splash).

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Feb  7 13:11:24 2008
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 14:11:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] VSCDA Sprite feature marque 3 races '08
Message-ID: <00df01c869c5$a08ce080$e1a6a180$@com>

Austin Healey Sprite 50th Anniversary Reunion Challenge Series

 

http://www.idgetswithspridgets.com/

 

This is a quick down and dirty site I tossed up. it'll get better as more
details evolve.

 

Please note, the invitations extends to MG Midgets, and. this is really
exciting. to current era SCCA prepared race cars.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From guinness at stclegal.com  Fri Feb  8 12:22:43 2008
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 13:22:43 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Piston Carbon Buildup
Message-ID: <47ACAC03.8050709@stclegal.com>

What is the easiest/best way to remove the carbon buildup on the top of 
the pistons on my 1963 MGB engine after I take the head off?  I don't 
want to remove the pistons either.  Any tried and true techniques and 
products that can be used?  Thank you.
-- 
Robert Guinness
1961 MGA with a 1964 MGB 1800  3 main engine.

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Feb  8 15:09:31 2008
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 17:09:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - EUDORA
Message-ID: <E1JNbRU-0003Jw-Pj@beta.look.ca>

I have lost my notes - but someone out there helped me with Eudora 
and I nee help again.

When people send me images embedded in the text they move when I view 
them on my laptop (Win 2000) at my office.  But they do not when I 
view them on my machine at home (Win XP).

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From bholton at golden.net  Fri Feb  8 15:19:11 2008
From: bholton at golden.net (Bob Holton)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 17:19:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - EUDORA
In-Reply-To: <E1JNbRU-0003Jw-Pj@beta.look.ca>
References: <E1JNbRU-0003Jw-Pj@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <000801c86aa0$a3435670$7e26fea9@Rocket>

Stop going to work.  Problem solved. Lol

bh

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+bholton=golden.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+bholton=golden.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barrie
Robinson
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 5:10 PM
To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC - EUDORA

I have lost my notes - but someone out there helped me with Eudora 
and I nee help again.

When people send me images embedded in the text they move when I view 
them on my laptop (Win 2000) at my office.  But they do not when I 
view them on my machine at home (Win XP).

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 
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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Feb  8 15:51:33 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 16:51:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Piston Carbon Buildup
In-Reply-To: <47ACAC03.8050709@stclegal.com>
References: <47ACAC03.8050709@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <20080208225140.BF4B218767A@autox.team.net>

At 01:22 PM 2/8/2008 -0600, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>What is the easiest/best way to remove the carbon buildup on the top of
>the pistons on my 1963 MGB engine after I take the head off?  I don't
>want to remove the pistons either.  Any tried and true techniques and
>products that can be used?  ....

A ScotchBrite wheel works like a charm.  See here: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts111.htm

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Feb  8 16:26:30 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008 17:26:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Piston Carbon Buildup
In-Reply-To: <20080208225140.BF4B218767A@autox.team.net>
References: <47ACAC03.8050709@stclegal.com>
	<20080208225140.BF4B218767A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <47ACE526.6090509@gmail.com>

Barney Gaylord wrote:
> At 01:22 PM 2/8/2008 -0600, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>   
>> What is the easiest/best way to remove the carbon buildup on the top of
>> the pistons on my 1963 MGB engine after I take the head off?  I don't
>> want to remove the pistons either.  Any tried and true techniques and
>> products that can be used?  ....
>>     
>
> A ScotchBrite wheel works like a charm.  See here: 
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts111.htm
I use a paint scraper very carefully.

-The Roxter
--

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Feb  9 08:00:51 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 15:00:51 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Starter wiring
References: <cb6.22c1db37.34d5ee05@aol.com>
Message-ID: <062d01c86b2e$201df140$0200a8c0@Three>

Rubber bumper cars have extra wiring to an additional terminal on the 
solenoid, these wires MUST NOT be connected to anything else if there isn't 
the extra terminal on the solenoid.

The standard solenoid wire is white/red on early cars, and brown/white or 
white/brown on later cars.  The extra wire on rubber bumper cars is 
white/light-green or white/light blue and is the coil ballast bypass wire 
used when cranking.  If you connect this to the battery cable stud it will 
power the coil all the time, and with double the current to boot, which will 
overheat the coil, make some cars impossible to switch off, and flatten the 
battery while parked.  If you connect it to the same terminal as the 
white/red or white/brown you will end up with *reduced* voltage to the coil 
and possible running problems, and possibly a continuously running starter.

This wire is used to give boost voltage to the coil when starting, which 
makes starting easier.  If you leave it disconnected the car will probably 
still start most of the time, but may not under adverse conditions.  There 
is a way of retaining the boost function with either a relay or a diode, but 
you have to know what you are doing.  Better to get the correct starter with 
the 2-spade solenoid.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I just got my Doc Martin gear reduction starter in from Ebay and plan on
> installing it this weekend.  One big question though. When I took it out 
> of  the
> box it appears to have one large lug for the hot cable, and one small  tab 
> on
> the solenoid for the other wire(s).  If memory serves,  there are two 
> wires to
> the solenoid now.  Which one do I hook up and what  do I do with the other
> one?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Feb  9 08:18:26 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 15:18:26 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Non -starter 74 Midget
References: <47A7607D.8010802@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <064d01c86b30$3cf91c20$0200a8c0@Three>

Does the ignition warning light normally come on with the ignition and is it 
still doing so?

If so connect a timing light to the coil lead and watch for flashing when 
cranking.  If not you need to check the coil +ve for 12v all the time, and 
the -ve switching between 12v and ground when cranking.

If so, connect it to each plug lead and try again.  If no flashing on the 
plug leads the cap and/or rotor is breaking down.  If flashing on each lead 
point the timing light at the crank pulley when on No.1 and check it is 
flashing a few degrees BTDC i.e. the timing hasn't slipped.

If that's OK it is probably fuel.  After cranking for a bit, especially with 
the choke out, it will probably have flooded the points, in which case you 
will smell the fuel even before you get the timing light out.  But if no 
external fuel smell take out plugs 1 and 4.  They should smell strongly of 
fuel but not be wet (flooded).  If flooded, and the ignition checks out, 
push the choke home, crank with the throttle wide open, and be ready to 
release the throttle and half-pull the choke when it catches.

If no fuel smell no fuel is getting through.  If the 74 has an electric fuel 
pump maybe that has stopped working, although normally there should be 
enough left in the float chambers to start ('starts but immediately quit' 
noted), and normally one would be aware that it hadn't clicked when turning 
on the ignition.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Friend called to ask for help with a problem on his 74 Midget. Car
> running like a champ two days ago. All of a sudden it's quits
> immediately on him. Can't coax it to start again. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Feb  9 08:34:22 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 15:34:22 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Starter freezing up on cold days
References: <00af01c85594$5c207190$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
	<001301c86675$0f6ae690$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
Message-ID: <066e01c86b32$56839560$0200a8c0@Three>

A new one on me.  I used my V8 as a daily driver in all weathers, parked 
outside in freezing conditions, but had the opposite problem i.e. it 
wouldn't crank properly when hot, just chatter.

What is the ignition warning light doing when you turn the key to crank but 
nothing happens?  Normally the solenoid on its own will cause a very slight 
dimming, the starter (if it is being energised but can't rotate) would dim 
it significantly more.  Also what can you hear?  On a 71 you the starter 
relay on the inner wing should click, which normally would be drowned out by 
a 'clonk' from the solenoid, which itself would normally be drowned out by 
the whirring of the engine.  Which you can still hear is an indication of 
the problem.

If you can hear the solenoid clonk, and the ignition warning dims down 
significantly, then that is an indication of something physically preventing 
the starter motor from rotating, either something mechanically stuck or 
insufficient current from the battery.  What temps are these?  I understand 
Russians in winter turn their headlights on for a minute or so before 
cranking as this 'warms up' the battery and allows it to give more current 
fro cranking, than if cranking straight away.

If the solenoid clonks but the ignition warning light barely dims then 
either the solenoid contact isn't closing, or the motor brushes aren't 
making good contact with the commutator.  Things shrink in the cold, so it's 
possible something is on the margins for wear, or possibly sticking and 
pulling back from making a contact as they cool.

If the relay clicks but the solenoid doesn't clonk, either power isn't 
reaching the solenoid, or it is sticking.

Either of the sticking scenarios could be water in the works freezing, but 
normally this should evaporate off with a decent run, or if very cold run 
the engine at a fast idle (throttle wedged, not choke pulled) until the 
engine *does* get hot, blanking off the radiator will help stop the fan 
blasting freezing air over the engine and stopping it getting warm, as well 
as allowing it to get up to full temperature once the stat does start to 
open.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I use my MGB as a daily driver. It's been a reliable starter-upper the last
> couple winters even below zero. But this winter the starter seems to 
> 'freeze
> up' when it's cold. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Feb  9 08:39:39 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 15:39:39 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Starter wiring
References: <196776.97967.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <066f01c86b32$56ae75f0$0200a8c0@Three>

I agree with your explanation, but FWIW the ballast system ends up with 
there being *more* voltage to the coil when cranking than when running - 
typically 6v running, 10v cranking, but dependant on battery condition and 
temperature.

Which country came up with it, let alone the nationality, I don't know. 
Somewhere colder than the UK, I reckon.  But then as UK cars aren't held to 
be as good at cold starting as some in the world-wide scheme of things, 
maybe not.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> coil AND bypasses the ballast resistor (only) during
> start-up, the coil will see full operating voltage.

From glenel at videotron.ca  Sat Feb  9 12:39:44 2008
From: glenel at videotron.ca (Glen)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 14:39:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] test
Message-ID: <000601c86b53$85407230$6400a8c0@IBM23B634F21A7>

test test test

From cattias at ucsc.edu  Sat Feb  9 12:42:56 2008
From: cattias at ucsc.edu (Chris Attias)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 11:42:56 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] OT- Eudora
Message-ID: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>

 From what I understand at work, Qualcomm has discontinued support and 
development of Eudora.

-- 
Chris Attias
Felton, CA
'64 MGB

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Feb  9 19:35:12 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 13:05:12 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Picking a head
In-Reply-To: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>

Guys,

This is a strange one but something I have to get my head (pun  
intended) around.   I am preparing my car for the new competition  
season and this year it means a little further development work and  
some cash outlay (as always).

I have had issues with the head that I bought a few years ago which  
was ported and polished to the max, well, as it turned out it was  
polished a little past the max with cracks appearing into the water  
jacket.  Believe it or not, "Chemiweld" fixed this for almost a whole  
last competition season (hey, my budget is tiny) but I NEED A NEW HEAD!

The dilemma... I was going to look for a nice strong head and get it  
ported, polished, gas-flowed etc  Lots of money. BUT I have just been  
offered the head off a fellow competitors car for a "good" price (not  
a bargain-basement price, but significantly cheaper that starting  
from scratch).  This car was a decent amount faster than mine but it  
was also fuel-injected so it was not all about this head.  The owner  
is going V8 so he is selling of all his 4 cylinder bits.

The head is fresh off his block so it is a little grubby and not  
looking very special.  Valves are as big as they could be (without  
touching) and ports are huge - bigger than mine.  It was supposedly  
gas-flowed when ported/polished.

My question... what do I need to look for before outlaying the decent  
amount of money he is asking for this item?  It would kill me to bolt  
this head on and find it didn't live up to its promise and left a big  
hole in my meagre budget.  Are we talking about "re gasflowing" it -  
and would this tell me that it was doing what it was designed/ 
reported to do?



Eric
MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Feb 10 10:23:54 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 11:23:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Picking a head
References: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>
	<F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <0df601c86c09$b7c0caf0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Eric, did you get my note??

Ed

From Weberstevej at aol.com  Sun Feb 10 21:15:38 2008
From: Weberstevej at aol.com (Weberstevej at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 23:15:38 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Carbon buildup
Message-ID: <c90.22f84844.34e125ea@aol.com>

>What is the easiest/best way to remove the carbon buildup....... 
 
Robert
 
I've used paint stripper to remove that carbon build-up, but it on let it  
soak, then wipe it clean. One of those scotch pads helps too.
 
Steve



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Feb 12 08:48:44 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 09:48:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Picking a head
In-Reply-To: <F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>
References: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>
	<F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <47B1BFDC.2080904@ktc.com>

Hi Eric,

   My advice is to do your own.  Then you'll know what you have and how 
to proceed.

   CR

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Feb 12 20:32:25 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:32:25 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] windows assembly
References: <OFA89DA881.7C631CD5-ON852573E0.0069B79F-852573E0.006A7A54@exxonmobil.com><C3C61960.14C23%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<20080130211729.0E60B1C00088@mwinf6104.orange.nl>
Message-ID: <002901c86df1$116b9bf0$800101df@garage.local>

is there a preferred order to put the vent frame, window glass, and furry 
stuff back in on the doors?

thanks 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Feb 13 01:48:33 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:48:33 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] windows assembly
References: <OFA89DA881.7C631CD5-ON852573E0.0069B79F-852573E0.006A7A54@exxonmobil.com><C3C61960.14C23%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><20080130211729.0E60B1C00088@mwinf6104.orange.nl>
	<002901c86df1$116b9bf0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <007101c86e1e$4042c110$0200a8c0@Three>

If by 'furry stuff' you mean the stuff that goes in the glass guides then it 
is probably easier to put that in the channels before fitting the channels 
to the door.  But without being facetious I think it would be pretty tricky 
putting the channels in the doors after the glass.  From there it is a case 
of bit by bit - you can't fully tighten the channels until you have the 
glass fully in to get the correct width, but if they are too loose the glass 
could jump out of one or other of the channels while you are inserting it. 
The most important part concerns the alignment of the 1/4-light/vent frame 
with the windscreen - the top of the frame must not be tight up against the 
screen seal or scuttle shake will cause the 'crack of doom' in the door 
skin.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> is there a preferred order to put the vent frame, window glass, and furry
> stuff back in on the doors?

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed Feb 13 07:58:19 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:58:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Car Shows
Message-ID: <48720d20802130658n5691b569v1a5751a11269a6e@mail.gmail.com>

Someone on the Healey list asked about car shows in September so I thought I
would send my reply here also.

Chicagoland British Car Festival
September 7, 2008

This is a festival, a celebration, not a show. Every car is welcome from the
perfect concourse winner to your latest project car. Come even if your car
isn't drivable. We always have great people attending, and interesting cars
on display.

Details at http://www.britishcarunion.com/

The event is held just south of Chicago, near an expressway.

Jack

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Wed Feb 13 16:33:29 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 18:33:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] alternator question
Message-ID: <000d01c86e98$d70e6bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

I have a question about the alternator in my 71 "B", it is raining pretty hard
in this neck of the woods and as I was waiting at a red light waiting for the
light to change to green, the engine was just purring away then suddenly the
alternator light came on to a bright amber on the dash,  then the engine died,
I turned the key off and on again and the car started right up, a few times
after that the alternator came on momentarily and the car acted as if it
wanted to die, I accelerated and the car ran fine, any ideas and suggestions,
perhaps the alternator going kaput?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Feb 14 01:49:24 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 08:49:24 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] alternator question
References: <000d01c86e98$d70e6bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <016e01c86ee7$3213ac70$0200a8c0@Three>

If the alternator light came on first and the engine died as it did so then 
that implies the ignition system has lost voltage from the ignition switch. 
Could be a dodgy connection in a brown to the switch, or in the white from 
the switch, or inside the switch itself.  The other symptoms imply an 
intermittent connection somewhere also.

It won't be the alternator itself, the engine should continue to run on the 
battery alone, even though the warning light may be on.

It's going to be tricky to diagnose until it become permanent, but if you 
have a timing light and have it connected when this happens if the flashes 
stop while the engine is still spinning it is ignition, if it keeps flashing 
until the engine stops rotating it is fuel.  Also look at the tach.  If that 
drops instantly while then engine is still rotating that also says ignition, 
if it only gradually drops as the engine spins down it is fuel.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> ... as I was waiting at a red light waiting for the
> light to change to green, the engine was just purring away then suddenly 
> the
> alternator light came on to a bright amber on the dash,  then the engine 
> died,

From eric at erickson.on.net  Thu Feb 14 02:46:25 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 20:16:25 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
In-Reply-To: <F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>
References: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>
	<F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <C384ECD6-10C8-4CDC-BDA2-3B819B773778@erickson.on.net>

Wow - today was not good news day.

I guess you never quite know what you will find when you pull an  
engine apart but what was meant to be replacing rings and tidying up  
the bottom end of the thing turned into a horror story.

One of my lovely, flat-top JE pistons has suffered a fatal injury,  
presumably from its broken top ring.  I guess the thing did not like  
being over-revved and now has a hole in its side.

My problem, being in Australia, is that replacing a custom JE (.040  
over) piston is not a simple operation - with one quote being a 3  
months turn around time from them receiving my sample (a surviving  
piston).  This leaves me hunting a set of similar flat-tops for an  
engine that needs to be back together for its first competition event  
on March 2nd.

I have a few leads here but if anyone has any ideas or thoughts I  
would grateful.  Compression below 10:1 / 11:1 is not an option.

This was not the sort of news I needed today.  My budget is already  
hurting.

Thanks for "listening".



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Feb 14 07:39:17 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 09:39:17 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
Message-ID: <d3f.235c05e8.34e5ac95@aol.com>

I doubt you had a piston problem due to RPM, Eric. There are lots of people  
that rev MG engines much higher than you do without incident.  I'd look to  
something else.  Were you getting detonation?  I'd worry about timing  and 
mixture.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 14/02/2008 1:46:59 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
eric at erickson.on.net writes:

One of  my lovely, flat-top JE pistons has suffered a fatal injury,   
presumably from its broken top ring.  I guess the thing did not  like  
being over-revved and now has a hole in its  side.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Thu Feb 14 07:57:44 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 01:27:44 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
In-Reply-To: <d3f.235c05e8.34e5ac95@aol.com>
References: <d3f.235c05e8.34e5ac95@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C863121F-B5DD-426B-B591-109AFBF97196@erickson.on.net>

On 15/02/2008, at 1:09 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

> I doubt you had a piston problem due to RPM, Eric. There are lots  
> of people that rev MG engines much higher than you do without  
> incident.  I'd look to something else.  Were you getting  
> detonation?  I'd worry about timing and mixture.
>

Well it looks like the issue was caused by a broken top ring (the  
rings on the JE pistons are pretty fine) - and using AVGAS with the  
high compression generally mean no detonation.  I will try and take  
some shots but the damage was pretty certainly done by the broken ring.

As far as over revving - on the track I take that thing regularly up  
to 5500 to 6000+ revs but can remember the odd "issue" (missed gear  
related, or high-speed "off"... ) where it has gone well over that on  
a couple of occasions.

I was told she could handle 7000 revs but never really found any  
advantage going much over 5500 - it was only the odd error that would  
see the needle bounce that far past the old redline.

Anyway - I have a lead for some flat-tops and I will be chasing that  
on Friday.


Thanks,


Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Feb 14 08:38:46 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 10:38:46 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
Message-ID: <c1a.3093164a.34e5ba86@aol.com>

If that is true then your engine builder did you no favours.  I see  this all 
the time - overkill on valve spring pressures that end up putting  
unnecessary premature wear on the valve train.  If your engine has a  power peak at 5500 
then 6-6200 is all you need to 'spring' it to, although some  sort of RPM 
limiter can be nice - not much of an issue for you, as the valves  should just 
float without hitting anything.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 14/02/2008 6:58:06 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
eric at erickson.on.net writes:

I was  told she could handle 7000 revs but never really found any  
advantage  going much over 5500 - it was only the odd error that would  
see the  needle bounce that far past the old redline.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 09:01:04 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 08:01:04 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] alternator question
In-Reply-To: <016e01c86ee7$3213ac70$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <000d01c86e98$d70e6bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<016e01c86ee7$3213ac70$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10802140801v31edc021u6eecbe983f5a28ba@mail.gmail.com>

There is an easier way.
Look at the tach when the engine starts to falter.  If the tach drops like a
stone before the engine dies, it is a lack of power to the ignition system.
If the tach is stumbling indicating low RPMs  the ignition system is working
the fault lies elsewhere.
Rick

On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 12:49 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:

> If the alternator light came on first and the engine died as it did so
> then
> that implies the ignition system has lost voltage from the ignition
> switch.
> Could be a dodgy connection in a brown to the switch, or in the white from
> the switch, or inside the switch itself.  The other symptoms imply an
> intermittent connection somewhere also.
>
> It won't be the alternator itself, the engine should continue to run on
> the
> battery alone, even though the warning light may be on.
>
> It's going to be tricky to diagnose until it become permanent, but if you
> have a timing light and have it connected when this happens if the flashes
> stop while the engine is still spinning it is ignition, if it keeps
> flashing
> until the engine stops rotating it is fuel.  Also look at the tach.  If
> that
> drops instantly while then engine is still rotating that also says
> ignition,
> if it only gradually drops as the engine spins down it is fuel.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > ... as I was waiting at a red light waiting for the
> > light to change to green, the engine was just purring away then suddenly
> > the
> > alternator light came on to a bright amber on the dash,  then the engine
> > died,
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jello at ida.net  Thu Feb 14 09:17:53 2008
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 09:17:53 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
In-Reply-To: <1437.209.180.80.45.1203003466.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>
References: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>   
	<F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>   
	<C384ECD6-10C8-4CDC-BDA2-3B819B773778@erickson.on.net>
	<1437.209.180.80.45.1203003466.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>
Message-ID: <1561.209.180.80.45.1203005873.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

> Warning - related but not MG content.
>
> YOu think this is bad.  About 3 years ago, I was driving my '69 porsche
> 911T across the country.  South of Pueblo, CO about 25 miles, my engine
> died and wouldn't turn - at all.  I hitched a ride 30 miles to the nearest
> small  town and got a U-haul and towed it home.  It was 8 months later I
> felt I had the money to fix it, so I tore down the engine.  What I found
> was a broken valve head had fallen in the combustion chamber, and the
> piston had been pounded into oblivion. So there I looked at the left hand
> bank of the engine to see - two pistons, and one wrist pin.  The head was
> pretty mangled too.  I know I had adjusted those valves to their insane
> clearance of 0.004" just about a month before that - so my valve seat must
> have been receding (sp?) fast.  I can't complain too much though, that
> engine had over 200,000 miles on it.  I'm still trying to straighten it
> out - but it has given me the opportunity to put a bigger more powerful
> engine in as well.
>
> Phil Bates
>> Wow - today was not good news day.
>>
>> I guess you never quite know what you will find when you pull an
>> engine apart but what was meant to be replacing rings and tidying up
>> the bottom end of the thing turned into a horror story.
>>
>> One of my lovely, flat-top JE pistons has suffered a fatal injury,
>> presumably from its broken top ring.  I guess the thing did not like
>> being over-revved and now has a hole in its side.
>>
>> My problem, being in Australia, is that replacing a custom JE (.040
>> over) piston is not a simple operation - with one quote being a 3
>> months turn around time from them receiving my sample (a surviving
>> piston).  This leaves me hunting a set of similar flat-tops for an
>> engine that needs to be back together for its first competition event
>> on March 2nd.
>>
>> I have a few leads here but if anyone has any ideas or thoughts I
>> would grateful.  Compression below 10:1 / 11:1 is not an option.
>>
>> This was not the sort of news I needed today.  My budget is already
>> hurting.
>>
>> Thanks for "listening".
>>
>>
>>
>> Eric
>> '68MGB MkII
>> Adelaide, South Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>
>> You are subscribed as jello at ida.net
>>
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 10:55:28 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 11:55:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MG Logo Stickers
Message-ID: <48720d20802140955o700f8306pd371ab4471babf16@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone have a source for MG logo decals or stickers?

Jack

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 10:59:05 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 11:59:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] New Zealand MG Information
Message-ID: <48720d20802140959v39a8e8a6g5af4cc06cd0b3f99@mail.gmail.com>

Any lurkers from New Zealand who might be able to answer a question?

Jack

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 14 11:23:01 2008
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 10:23:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MG Logo Stickers
In-Reply-To: <48720d20802140955o700f8306pd371ab4471babf16@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <882569.62202.qm@web51912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Depends what you are looking for. VB seems to have a few more then Moss. Triple-C has some others. A few vendors on eBay have some interesting ones from time to time.
  Carl

Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:
  Anyone have a source for MG logo decals or stickers?

Jack
You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive


       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 11:55:46 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 12:55:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] alternator question
In-Reply-To: <000d01c86e98$d70e6bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
References: <000d01c86e98$d70e6bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <47B48EB2.5010307@gmail.com>

1971-red-mgb wrote:
> I have a question about the alternator in my 71 "B", it is raining pretty hard
> in this neck of the woods and as I was waiting at a red light waiting for the
> light to change to green, the engine was just purring away then suddenly the
> alternator light came on to a bright amber on the dash,  then the engine died,
> I turned the key off and on again and the car started right up, a few times
> after that the alternator came on momentarily and the car acted as if it
> wanted to die, I accelerated and the car ran fine, any ideas and suggestions,
> perhaps the alternator going kaput?
Something like this can be caused by a slightly loose or wear-polished belt getting wet and slipping.

-The Roxter
--

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 14 12:50:13 2008
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 14:50:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Logo Stickers
In-Reply-To: <48720d20802140955o700f8306pd371ab4471babf16@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20802140955o700f8306pd371ab4471babf16@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY125-W25FDFFCB094E3078FD6E93BF250@phx.gbl>

Try the New England MG T Register web site
http://www.nemgtr.org/

You'll need to navigate first to the magazine and then to Regalia.

Tuck



> Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 11:55:28 -0600> From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com> To:
mgs at autox.team.net> Subject: [Mgs] MG Logo Stickers> > Anyone have a source
for MG logo decals or stickers?> > Jack>
_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > You are subscribed as
tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com> > > Mgs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs> > http://www.team.net/archive

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Thu Feb 14 12:52:05 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 20:52:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] alternator question
In-Reply-To: <47B48EB2.5010307@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAN8nGKyh1/JGt9iTnt9wDckBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

1971-red-mgb wrote:
> I have a question about the alternator in my 71 "B", it is raining 
> pretty hard in this neck of the woods and as I was waiting at a red 
> light waiting for the light to change to green, the engine was just 
> purring away then suddenly the alternator light came on to a bright 
> amber on the dash,  then the engine died, I turned the key off and on 
> again and the car started right up, a few times after that the 
> alternator came on momentarily and the car acted as if it wanted to 
> die, I accelerated and the car ran fine, any ideas and suggestions,
perhaps the alternator going kaput?

Something like this can be caused by a slightly loose or wear-polished belt
getting wet and slipping.

-The Roxter

A suddenly dying engine? I suspect a short in the electrics due to
dampness...

Eric

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 13:15:19 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 14:15:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
In-Reply-To: <C863121F-B5DD-426B-B591-109AFBF97196@erickson.on.net>
References: <d3f.235c05e8.34e5ac95@aol.com>
	<C863121F-B5DD-426B-B591-109AFBF97196@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <47B4A157.7060404@gmail.com>

Eric Erickson wrote:
> On 15/02/2008, at 1:09 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
>
>   
>> I doubt you had a piston problem due to RPM, Eric. There are lots  
>> of people that rev MG engines much higher than you do without  
>> incident.  I'd look to something else.  Were you getting  
>> detonation?  I'd worry about timing and mixture.
>>
>>     
>
> Well it looks like the issue was caused by a broken top ring (the  
> rings on the JE pistons are pretty fine) - and using AVGAS with the  
> high compression generally mean no detonation.  I will try and take  
> some shots but the damage was pretty certainly done by the broken ring.
>
> As far as over revving - on the track I take that thing regularly up  
> to 5500 to 6000+ revs but can remember the odd "issue" (missed gear  
> related, or high-speed "off"... ) where it has gone well over that on  
> a couple of occasions.
>
> I was told she could handle 7000 revs but never really found any  
> advantage going much over 5500 - it was only the odd error that would  
> see the needle bounce that far past the old redline.
>
> Anyway - I have a lead for some flat-tops and I will be chasing that  
> on Friday.
Good luck on that.

I have had broken rings before on a racing mill, back in the 60's. I think what caused that was a new cam and an increase in revs that resulted. I had run long enough with a 6000 rpm redline that a slight step had developed in the cylinder walls. When the new cam called for 7000 rpm top, the step broke the top ring on one of the pistons.

-The Roxter
--

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Thu Feb 14 13:14:53 2008
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 15:14:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
References: <mailman.1670.1203015349.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003901c86f46$4a008100$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

I thought you guys made your own pistons? Or is that only in New 
Zealand...?
http://www.worldsfastestindian.com/

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 

> My problem, being in Australia, is that replacing a custom JE (.040
> over) piston is not a simple operation - with one quote being a 3
> months turn around time from them receiving my sample (a surviving
> piston). 

From match at ece.utah.edu  Thu Feb 14 15:24:36 2008
From: match at ece.utah.edu (Marvin Match)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 15:24:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Horror stories (was Piston Broke)
Message-ID: <47B45D34.30386.1678078@match.ece.utah.edu>

I have always contended that there can be a lot wrong with these 
little cars before they'll leave you stranded. I just can't help 
myself, I've got to share these two personal stories:

On my '74 1/2 B I was coming home from picking up my daughter from 
gymnastics practice. I was just exiting the freeway and broke a leaf 
spring, clear through all leafs while on the off-ramp. The car 
slumped way down on it's left side, I'm not sure what kept it from 
draging on the asphalt, maybe the lever shock and it's linkage. 
Anyway I managed to drive it home, but I shudder to think what would 
have happened if it had failed 5 minutes earlier at 75MPH while 
passing or changing lanes.

After a new set of rear springs and a few months later, I was just 
driving across town, stoplight-to-stoplight, not even going fast... 
and suddenly noticed a sort of "thump" and  then continuing engine 
noise and no oil pressure consistant with a bottom-end failure (this 
was engine #3 so I know what a major bottom-end failure sounds and 
feels like.) Nothing to do but nurse it home, about 5 miles. Crawling 
under the car, I could actually tip the flywheel fore and aft with my 
hand an alarming degree. Upon teardown I found the crankshaft broken 
right in two diagonally at the 4th rod journal! The only thing 
keeping it in alignment well enough to drive home was the #4 rod and 
what was left of its bearing! 

Amazing!

Marvin

From jello at ida.net  Thu Feb 14 15:57:06 2008
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 15:57:06 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Re:  Horror stories (was Piston Broke)]
Message-ID: <3829.209.180.80.45.1203029826.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

Again somewhat off topic - but related

In automotive horror story breakdowns:

I once had a rear suspension torsion tube on my Porsche 911t break in a
hard turn.  No rear suspension, and the trans mounts were there too.  It
pulled on the throttle rods, and put the car at full throttle (7500rpm). 
I drove home at 2AM in -20 degree weather by popping the clutch in third
gear, and shutting down at 90mph to coast.  Scarey.

Same car - missed a turn in a dirt road rallye - drove off the mountain
just enough that I couldn't get traction to come back up.  A large 4 wheel
drive deisel truck had a hard time pulling us back up.  We finished the
rallye.

Same car - broke a timing chain tensioner - which in turn broke all the
exhaust rockers on that side of the engine.  Oddly enough, no internal
damage.  Good design, break the rockers...they're external, more or less.

In my MGB - missed sealing up the oil canister o-ring once.  Drove 1 mile,
and did irreprairable damage.
In the MGB - didn't re-connect the driveshaft properly after having the
engine and trans out - luckily, it came loose trying to leave a stoplight
- no serious damage.

In my MGA - lost a water pump seal in New Mexico in June.  All was well
while moving, but not when the car stopped.  Still working on repairs from
this - it was a long drive.

In my 1991 lotus elan - oil drain plug fell out during a rallye.  Luckily
it was caught early.  Some damage, but not enough to stop driving in the
rallye or driving the car.

And by far my worst - I've caught two kit cars on fire (one of them 2
times).  One was electrical on my 1952 MG-TD/VW replicar, once a gas fire
in the same car.  The other was much worse - stuck throttle in a corvair
engined sportscar kitcar (sebring - much like a sterling).  The belt
snapped, and the engine had no cooling.  Burned down the engine.

Luckily, I never got hurt in any of those.

Phil

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Feb 14 17:52:28 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 18:52:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: [Spridgets] New Threadlocker
Message-ID: <0d6c01c86f6d$0a4a9ec0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

I get a monthly Newsletter from AutoCarPro.news and thought you folks would
like to know:

Permatex Introduces Innovative Gel Squeeze Threadlocker

http://www.autocarepronews.com/default.aspx?type=art&id=86827&sid=388222&iid=
5629&stid=0

or

http://tinyurl.com/ytuyjb

Please share!!

Ed

From eric at erickson.on.net  Thu Feb 14 19:14:15 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 12:44:15 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
In-Reply-To: <639907.46954.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <639907.46954.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <695005A9-8963-4878-A402-61E033BC18E3@erickson.on.net>

On 15/02/2008, at 7:17 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> You know, the other possibility is that when they
> installed the new rings they did not correctly set the
> end gap - if they set it at all!
>

Nahh, just put my past ramblings down to disappointment :-)

I am quite prepared to believe the issue was caused by a detonation  
issue.

She was tuned pretty finely as far as the octane levels of fuel she  
needed and if that octane level dropped any she would ping.  I  
thought I kept an eye on that but in the heat of the moment and the  
noise of the track (at 6000 rpm) who knows what was happening.

Anyway, the damage looks like detonation damage (and blown apart top  
ring).

I have bitten the bullet and decided to drop the compression on the  
engine to a sensible point for a some-time street car so I can run it  
on Premium Unleaded.

Now I just need to look elsewhere for whatever power and/or speed I  
lose by doing that.

In the end this has probably just forced my hand a little.

I have found some nice "slightly" dished pistons that I will use and  
we will see what the end result is after a really thorough refresh of  
the poor engine.

Budget racing is fun, isn't it?



Thanks all,



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Feb 15 02:39:59 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 09:39:59 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] alternator question
References: <000d01c86e98$d70e6bb0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<016e01c86ee7$3213ac70$0200a8c0@Three>
	<a3b984e10802140801v31edc021u6eecbe983f5a28ba@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02b701c86fb8$7b7db280$0200a8c0@Three>

Did you read what you replied to?

Only if the tach drops suddenly and completely while the engine is still 
spinning, *and* the ignition warning light is on, has power to the ignition 
system been lost.

If the tach drops but the warning light stays off then power is still being 
supplied to the ignition system and the problem is within the ignition LT 
system.

If the tach is still registering in accordance with engine rpms but there is 
no power then the problem is with the fuel as I said, but could also be in 
the HT or timing.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> There is an easier way.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Feb 15 02:42:37 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 09:42:37 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] alternator question
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAN8nGKyh1/JGt9iTnt9wDckBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <02b801c86fb8$7ba62210$0200a8c0@Three>

No chance.  Whilst the ignition warning light will come on, the engine will 
continue to run normally even if the belt comes off altogether.  Until it 
overheats, that is.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Something like this can be caused by a slightly loose or wear-polished 
> belt
> getting wet and slipping.

From lrc at red4est.com  Fri Feb 15 14:17:40 2008
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 13:17:40 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Lucas emulation software
Message-ID: <20080215211740.GA30864@red4est.com>

http://www.hummingbirds.net/lucas/

-- 
         "I just can't fathom how far light would travel in 6nSec"
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Feb 15 17:58:03 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 11:28:03 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Broke (was Picking a head)
In-Reply-To: <C384ECD6-10C8-4CDC-BDA2-3B819B773778@erickson.on.net>
References: <p06240803c3d3b0a2e6a6@[192.168.2.3]>
	<F4D85E83-BA1D-4643-9F86-3CFA1802B9EC@erickson.on.net>
	<C384ECD6-10C8-4CDC-BDA2-3B819B773778@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <F88A2BC7-2629-43BC-B2D4-067B8A795C29@erickson.on.net>

On 14/02/2008, at 8:16 PM, Eric Erickson wrote:

> Wow - today was not good news day.
>
>

Thanks guys,

Things got a bit better after a decent night's sleep and some time to  
think a bit more calmly.  The following is my way of looking on the  
bright side and trying to be a little more positive than I often am  
in these situations.

I have always wanted to drop some compression on that engine so I  
could run on Premium Unleaded fuel (having to get AVGAS all the time  
was becoming a pain, expensive and it is always threatened to  
eventually be made illegal for our use) while trying to maintain as  
much power as possible and I thought this might be the (forced) time  
to investigate this.

Please remember, I am what is known in Australia as a "bush mechanic"  
- poor, self taught, barely technical, frequently unorthodox and I  
learn by breaking things.  I also pay for expertise when the work is  
critical because I know my limitations (and try to ask questions  
where possible to build my knowledge, so the opinions I express ain't  
always mine).

I found some nice looking, non-standard (of course) "slightly dished"  
pistons that fit those big holes in my block and while pondering the  
outcome of using these I properly measured up the new/old head and  
got some more of the story from the previous owner.  The head is  
actually decently shaved - (i.e. high compression) so the compression  
drop of going to the dished pistons won't be as severe as combining  
that with a "normal" head.  I also learned that the head was gas- 
flowed to 160hp (but I don't know what pistons he was using).  No, I  
am not expecting 160hp out of it!!!

My engine was quite badly in need of this "freshening up" so any  
power I lose now will probably be again partially compensated for the  
gain of a whole set of fresh innards (like properly opening valves) -  
that is as against my last run which was just half a second off my  
personal best time while the engine, tyres and suspension where badly  
in need of some love.

I have my new tyres and I did the adjustable tube shock conversion  
(after fighting against this for years) - and I have traction rods  
(or as my mechanic refers to them, "sissy bars").  So maybe I will  
gain something on the track from these things.

In my attempt to get fit I have lost over 20 pounds of "success  
ballast" from my gut - that must be worth a few tenths on the track!

Hey, what I am saying is I will have a car to drive around the  
racetrack come March 2nd and I think it will be "competitive".

Buts mostly I will have fun hanging out with the guys (and gals)  
again at the track for a new season - and isn't that what it is all  
about?

(But gee I love to win)


Once again, thanks for the therapy - now let's get out there and  
break... I mean build our cars!



Eric,
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Sat Feb 16 14:44:34 2008
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 16:44:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] No fuel pump click
Message-ID: <47B75942.1050103@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
After finally replacing the oil pump gears after having my MGA sitting 
atop the lift for about 7 months, I figured the gasket cement was dry 
now and attempted starting my car today. Well, first I had to give it a 
charge. After 1/2 hour, I turned the key, no click, click on fuel pump, 
but the lights, radio,  and horn, ignition light  had power.
Since I had the battery cover off, I rapped the pump with a hammer 
handle. Still no go. this is a first for me with this car. It ran fine 
before I  turned it off to do the oil pump gears months earlier.
OK. pump points might need some cleaning so I do that and try to 
restart. Nothing. Pump filter clogged?  Remove and check, clean as a 
whistle. No fuel comes out. OK. Check carbs to make sure nothing 
sticking in float bowls. they're free. Maybe time to replace pump. Take 
new pump from trunk and install(will save you from the grief that job 
entailed). Turn on key...NO CLICK!  Back to the fuse box. Poke at wires. 
White wire falls loose from connector. YES! Could have saved myself from 
replacing pump. re attach white wire, back inside, turn on 
ignition.....NO CLICK! (So now I know old pump was probably OK)
So, what now? Car is obviously getting back at me for not doing oil pump 
job in a more timelier manner having missed being on the road all that time.
Has a ground gone bad? Yes, I did check for gas and the gauge shows 
1/4-3/8 tank. Gauge has always been accurate.
Ideas, recommendations?
Dave Houser

From jevans at mydb3.com  Sat Feb 16 15:33:10 2008
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 16:33:10 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] 12th Annual All British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble
References: In-Reply-To:
Message-ID: <3451.75.57.97.191.1203201190.squirrel@www.mydb3.com>

The 12th annual All British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble will be held on
February 24, 2008 at the DuPage County Fairgrounds in Wheaton, Illinois.

This is an indoor event with approximately 100 vendor spaces in two
buildings.  Hours are 8 AM to 3 PM with a $5 admission fee and free
parking.  The suburban location is about 25 miles due west of Chicago,
with easy access from the Chicago area Interstate road system.

Hosted by the Chicagoland MG Club, this event has the enthusiastic support
of all the major British Car clubs in the Chicago area; most of these
clubs have taken spaces for club use and have promoted the event to their
members resulting in a strong turnout of vendors and buyers of parts and
accessories for all types of British cars.

Publicity has included a direct mailing to over 1,000 Chicago/midwest area
owners of British cars, as well as advertising in major metropolitan
newspapers in Chicago, Indianapolis, St Louis, Peoria, Quad Cities,
Rockford and Milwaukee.  This event has been advertised in Auto Restorer,
Skinned Knuckles, Old Cars Weekly and other enthusiast publications as
well as through postings on enthusiast internet sites; it now attracts the
participation of British Car enthusiasts from throughout the midwest with
shoppers coming from all surrounding states.  A list of local hotels is
available upon request.

Vendors already booked in include such well known suppliers to the British
Car hobby as:  Triple-C, Little British Car Company, TSI, University
Motors, Riverside Motors, author Burt Levy and more.

Any viewer of this message who has access to other club email lists is
encouraged to send it on.

Any questions - email me off list or call me at 630-858-8192 or see the
website at http://www.britishcarswap.info

Mapquest to 2015 West Manchester Road, Wheaton, Illinois 60187.

Hope to see your there!

FOR THE CHICAGOLAND MG CLUB
Jim Evans

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sat Feb 16 17:12:51 2008
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 18:12:51 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
Message-ID: <47B77C03.9020204@stclegal.com>

My American Muscle Car buddy suggested using spray on oven cleaner to 
remove carbon build up on  the tops of my pistons when they are still in 
the block.  After removing the head, they bring the cylinder to TDC, 
spray, rotate down, then sop up the dissolved carbon with paper towels 
or rags in about 30 minutes.  Has anyone tried this on an MG?  Will it 
hurt any "delicate parts"?
-- 
Robert Guinness

From guinness at stclegal.com  Sat Feb 16 17:51:03 2008
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 18:51:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Banjo fitting on H4 Carbs
Message-ID: <47B784F7.5000509@stclegal.com>

I am rebuilding my MGA's H4 carbs and I think I have run into a DPO 
bodge.  The banjo fitting to the float bowl covers  (Moss part #370-140) 
have two different "faces" (one where the bolt goes through, and one 
where it mates to the float bowl cover).  One face is indented so that 
the gasket fits within the indent.  The other is flush.  My question is 
this.  Which "face" mates with the banjo bolt head and which one mates 
with the float bowl cover?  The banjo bolt has a circular ring under the 
hex head.  This leads me to believe that the indented face of the banjo 
fitting should mate with the bolt so that the circular ring under the 
hex head presses into the indented area.  Since the float bowl cover is 
flush, it makes sense that the flush face of the banjo fitting should 
mate with the float bowl cover.  However, my existing set up is the 
other way around.  The manuals don't have an answer.  Does anyone on the 
list have an answer to this potentially leaky problem?
-- 
Robert Guinness

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Feb 16 21:06:02 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:06:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Banjo fitting on H4 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <47B784F7.5000509@stclegal.com>
References: <47B784F7.5000509@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <20080217040612.66796187869@autox.team.net>

At 06:51 PM 2/16/2008 -0600, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>.... MGA's H4 carbs .... The banjo fitting to the float bowl covers 
>.... One face is indented so that the gasket fits within the 
>indent.  The other is flush.  .... Which "face" mates with the banjo 
>bolt head and which one mates with the float bowl cover? ....

The counterbore side goes under the bolt head where a shoulder on the 
bolt compresses the gasket into the counterbore.  The falt side goes 
against the float cover where you should be able to see the edge of 
the gasket when it it assembled.  If you get it the wrong way the 
raised edge on the banjo may contact the float cover preventing the 
gasket from sealing.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Feb 17 03:00:27 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:00:27 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] No fuel pump click
References: <47B75942.1050103@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <009201c8714d$d51c20b0$0200a8c0@Three>

Fuel pump should *always* click when turning on the ignition, maybe only 
once or twice if it has only been off an hour or so.  If there was no fuel 
it should be chattering away like billy-oh, likewise for a blocked suction 
side.  A blocked pressure side should still click a couple of times, but 
only if there is fuel in the system, if there is air in the pump ('cos it 
has been standing a long time) it should still chatter.  Pump points oxidise 
when not used, new pumps come with a slip of paper saying to clean the 
points in the event of it not working before returning it as faulty. Even 
though they are closed the oxidisation works between the contact surfaces to 
insulate them.  Rapping the pump usually works with *spiked* points, which 
is what happens after a lot of usage, but usually has no effect on 
oxidisation.  Check you have 12v between the pump spade and the pump body to 
make sure it isn't a bad connection one side or the other.  If that's OK 
clean the points again with a strip of fine wet and dry pulling it back and 
fore a few times, cleaning both sides.  Don't pull the paper out from 
between the closed points though as that can leave fibres between them and 
you will be no better off, carefully lift one contact up just enough to 
remove the paper.  I've actually got the pump on a long-time stander working 
by bridging the points with a screwdriver which got it moving, then after a 
few clicks it was away on its own.  That was just to size up what was wrong 
with the car, I did a 'proper job' on it later.  As yours has 'only' been 
standing 7 months that may be all you need.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... After 1/2 hour, I turned the key, no click, click on fuel pump,
> but the lights, radio,  and horn, ignition light  had power.
> Since I had the battery cover off, I rapped the pump with a hammer
> handle. Still no go. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Feb 17 03:04:25 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:04:25 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
References: <47B77C03.9020204@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <009301c8714d$d53b1a60$0200a8c0@Three>

Some oven cleaners are caustic, and some caustics can attack aluminium, 
which may be an issue.  I've always understood that when removing carbon 
(which hasn't been necessary as part of a routine a decoke for many decades 
now) it is best to leave a ring of carbon round the outer edge of the 
piston.  As such that dictates an implement to remove the carbon from the 
rest of the crown, of such a form and used in such a manner so as not to 
'dig in' to the crown and leave rough patches.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My American Muscle Car buddy suggested using spray on oven cleaner to
> remove carbon build up on  the tops of my pistons when they are still in
> the block. 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Feb 17 04:35:13 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 12:35:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] No fuel pump click
References: <47B75942.1050103@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001301c87159$2965bae0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Perhaps it's time to redo your Lucas wiring all over...

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dave houser" <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:44 PM
Subject: [Mgs] No fuel pump click


> Listers,
> After finally replacing the oil pump gears after having my MGA sitting
> atop the lift for about 7 months, I figured the gasket cement was dry
> now and attempted starting my car today. Well, first I had to give it a
> charge. After 1/2 hour, I turned the key, no click, click on fuel pump,
> but the lights, radio,  and horn, ignition light  had power.
> Since I had the battery cover off, I rapped the pump with a hammer
> handle. Still no go. this is a first for me with this car. It ran fine
> before I  turned it off to do the oil pump gears months earlier.
> OK. pump points might need some cleaning so I do that and try to
> restart. Nothing. Pump filter clogged?  Remove and check, clean as a
> whistle. No fuel comes out. OK. Check carbs to make sure nothing
> sticking in float bowls. they're free. Maybe time to replace pump. Take
> new pump from trunk and install(will save you from the grief that job
> entailed). Turn on key...NO CLICK!  Back to the fuse box. Poke at wires.
> White wire falls loose from connector. YES! Could have saved myself from
> replacing pump. re attach white wire, back inside, turn on
> ignition.....NO CLICK! (So now I know old pump was probably OK)
> So, what now? Car is obviously getting back at me for not doing oil pump
> job in a more timelier manner having missed being on the road all that 
> time.
> Has a ground gone bad? Yes, I did check for gas and the gauge shows
> 1/4-3/8 tank. Gauge has always been accurate.
> Ideas, recommendations?
> Dave Houser

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Feb 17 05:02:46 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 12:02:46 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] No fuel pump click
References: <47B75942.1050103@tampabay.rr.com>
	<001301c87159$2965bae0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <00b301c8715d$a7de9aa0$0200a8c0@Three>

Sounds a bit drastic when only the pump seems to be not working.  That's 
what they call "shipwright's disease", and leads to it never being finished 
:o)

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
 Perhaps it's time to redo your Lucas wiring all over...

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 17 07:16:17 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 06:16:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
In-Reply-To: <009301c8714d$d53b1a60$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <141154.80756.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> I've always understood that when removing carbon 
> ...it is best to leave a ring of carbon round the
> outer edge of the piston.

Paul, et al., I have read this many time too but I
question the validity.  I feel that it is urban legend
that may have started to keep anateur mechanics from
dinging the cylinder with sharp instruments and
shoving carbon down into the gap where it ends up in
the ring belt.

The better technique I have used is to vacuum away any
loose debris, rotate the engine do the piston is at
TDC, fill the gap between the piston and cylinder with
grease or vasoline then clean the carbon away normally
- all the way to the piston's edge.

After the de-coking, vacuum away any particles then
rotate the engine to lower the piston.  Wipe the
cylinders dry and vacuum again.  Repeat until the
cylinders are clean then oil the cylinders and flood
the ring belt with oil.  Done.

rick

From RampantNM at aol.com  Sun Feb 17 07:37:28 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 09:37:28 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Thanks
Message-ID: <d6b.1da0aaa6.34e9a0a8@aol.com>

My thanks to all those that responded on the starter wiring.  I  installed 
the new starter yesterday without incident...except for a few foul  words 
shouted here and there.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From jkk at adams.net  Sun Feb 17 09:47:27 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:47:27 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier
Message-ID: <000801c87184$c7a28dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

A little help, anyone? I can't remember the name of the paint supplier that
will sell the correct paint in a spray can. I want to touch up the front
valance on the (Blaze) B.

 Too bad I hadn't thought about that when I had the bumpers off getting rid of
the Sabrina stumps!

Jim

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Feb 17 10:35:57 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 18:35:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] No fuel pump click
References: <47B75942.1050103@tampabay.rr.com>
	<001301c87159$2965bae0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<00b301c8715d$a7de9aa0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <000c01c8718b$8e189e30$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

For one electrical issue you're right Paul.
But as I could remember the complete story there several electrical gremlins 
teasing the "A"  in this case.
If that's the case, one can expect the next electrical problem soon.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>; "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] No fuel pump click


> Sounds a bit drastic when only the pump seems to be not working.  That's 
> what they call "shipwright's disease", and leads to it never being 
> finished :o)
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> Perhaps it's time to redo your Lucas wiring all over...

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 17 11:27:21 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 12:27:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier
References: <000801c87184$c7a28dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <046401c87192$bc65ef20$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Kleemeyer" <jkk at adams.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 10:47 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier


A little help, anyone? I can't remember the name of the paint supplier that
will sell the correct paint in a spray can. I want to touch up the front
valance on the (Blaze) B.

 Too bad I hadn't thought about that when I had the bumpers off getting rid 
of
the Sabrina stumps!

Jim
_______________________________________________


Jim, are you talking about Tower Paint?  That is the one that makes it 
around the lists.

920-235-6520    http://www.towerpaint.com/

BUT, any decent auto parts store that deals in auto paint (not Auto Zone 
type places) can probably do it.

Tower paint is here in Oshkosh, WI, but there is another parts house less 
than a mile away that can do it, too.

Larry Daniels 

From jkk at adams.net  Sun Feb 17 12:54:44 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 13:54:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier
References: <000801c87184$c7a28dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<046401c87192$bc65ef20$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <000c01c8719e$f1862150$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Thanks, Larry.

The chain stores have run almost all of the real parts stores out of 
business here. I won't deal with the Lost-in-the-Ozones and O-reallys.

 I work for a Ford dealership and have several wholesale parts accounts 
(body shops) that would paint the valance for me, BUT. Sometime ago I had 
one of them paint the tanks and fenders on one of my motorcycles and they 
wouldn't charge me anything and somehow a couple of the other shops found 
out about it and, well, it just wasn't a good thing. It was kind of like 
when my nephews , who also run a body shop, found out I took my wife's car 
to a different shop to have some accident damage repaired. Geeze, my Mom 
even got involved in that one.

So, to save myself a bunch of drama, I'm just going to do it myself.

Jim 

From sammler at bellsouth.net  Sun Feb 17 12:58:03 2008
From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler")
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 14:58:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
In-Reply-To: <141154.80756.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <141154.80756.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47B891CB.1050605@bellsouth.net>

A broken piston ring was recommended to me for use as a scraper in this 
situation - it seemed to work fine but I hadn't tried anything else, 
before or since.


>> removing carbon 
>> ...it is best to leave a ring of carbon round the
>> outer edge of the piston.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Feb 17 13:24:52 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 14:24:52 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier
References: <000801c87184$c7a28dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1><046401c87192$bc65ef20$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<000c01c8719e$f1862150$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <141301c871a3$2719f680$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<The chain stores have run almost all of the real parts stores out of
business here. >>

Jim, as YOU might guess you do not need a Parts Store but a Automotive Body
Supplier.  As you Crash Repair Department Vice-President<G> where they order
their supplies & PAINT !!!

And I sincerely hope you did NOT toss the Sabrinas!?!?!?!?!?

Ed

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Feb 17 14:05:01 2008
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 15:05:01 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] John Sprinzel's "Spritely Years"
Message-ID: <00af01c871a8$ca0e2c30$5e2a8490$@com>

I posted this about a month ago. and only 80 copies remain from the 500 he
had reprinted.. Better order now before they're gone.

 

 

 

"Here's your chance to get a copy of a book long out of print. Original
copies have gone for hundreds of dollars on Ebay.

 

John Sprinzel has reprinted "Spritely Years" after buying the rights and the
acetates back from Haynes. 

 

This is a "must have" for anyone interested in Sprites, Healeys, Triumph,
Ford, rallying, and a host of other cars John drove during his career. It's
an honest, informative, funny look at John's life as a driver, tuner,
manufacturer, etc.

 

Only 500 copies were produced for the 50th Sprite year anniversary, so that
they will still be fairly rare. 

 

He is selling them autographed at $65 including postage in the US ($71.00
overseas) .

 

His address is P.O. Box 97 Kaunakakai HI 96748

 

John's e-mail  address for this is johnsebring65 at gmail.com .

 

He does have Paypal, (though he says, "I am not yet too sure how it all
works"), otherwise US check or money order will do the trick. 

 

He'll have a few copies at the Sprite deal  in May, and Tom Coulthard
(co-author) might be there to sign them as well."

 

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



wsthompson at thicko.com

www.thicko.com <http://www.thicko.com/> 

 

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image002.png]

From blair at ifd.mv.com  Sun Feb 17 14:55:25 2008
From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 16:55:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier
References: <000801c87184$c7a28dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <00e601c871af$de74a120$81637dc7@Terrafirma>

Jim -
You might be asking about Tower Paint... (www.towerpaint.com) I have never 
used them, but it's brought up often on this list.

Blair



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Kleemeyer" <jkk at adams.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 11:47 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier


>A little help, anyone? I can't remember the name of the paint supplier that
> will sell the correct paint in a spray can. I want to touch up the front
> valance on the (Blaze) B.
>
> Too bad I hadn't thought about that when I had the bumpers off getting rid 
> of
> the Sabrina stumps!
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

From jkk at adams.net  Sun Feb 17 16:57:15 2008
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 17:57:15 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier
References: <000801c87184$c7a28dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1><046401c87192$bc65ef20$6401a8c0@Larry><000c01c8719e$f1862150$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<141301c871a3$2719f680$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <001401c871c0$d22eef90$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Unfortunately, the dealer I work for decided we didn't need a body shop when 
he built our new building. We farm out all of our warranty and "internal" 
work to other shops, and I am able to steer quite a bit of that to my best 
customers which they appreciate when they're slow.

Don't wory, I never throw anything away! I've got the attic of my old barn 
stuffed full of, well, stuff.

Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <shop at justbrits.com>



> Jim, as YOU might guess you do not need a Parts Store but a Automotive 
> Body
> Supplier.  As you Crash Repair Department Vice-President<G> where they 
> order
> their supplies & PAINT !!!
>
> And I sincerely hope you did NOT toss the Sabrinas!?!?!?!?!?
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 17 17:25:15 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 16:25:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
In-Reply-To: <47B8CCFB.3060706@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <949700.84072.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks CR!  The thing we amateur mechanics need to
remember is that no matter how grimy the outside of an
engine gets, the inside needs to be VERY clean.  When
I de-coke pistons I not only vacuum everything first,
I also place masking tape over all the other
cylinders, oil galleries and coolant ducts.  In short,
I tape over all the holes in the deck except the one
I'm working.  I also vacuum WHILE I scrape away
carbon.  Some here have suggested various abrasives
but I avoid using anything HARDER than the cylinder
walls; specifically, ScotchBrite, etc..  The best
thing I have found is coarse steel wool.  It is
adequately abrasive to clean up after scraping BUT it
is softer than the iron block bores.  Again, vacuuming
while cleaning.  And if a shred of steel wool gets
left behind (no process is perfect) the shred is
softer than the cylinder or rings.  That is NOT the
case with debris left behind from harsh abrasives.

I just did a valve job on my MGB and de-coked the
piston crowns while in there.  Here's a (large,
high-res) picture of a cylinder as I clean up
afterward.  Notice the tiny bit of debris on the
cylinder wall.  I cleaned this away and oiled the
cylinder down afterward.

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0928.JPG

Obviously, my goal was to get things clean, not a
beautiful, fresh aluminum finish on the piston crown.
:-)

Regards,

rick

--- Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:

>   The Vasoline trick is a new one on me; pretty neat
> trick to keep the 
> debris out of the ring groove.  I used to squirt
> gear lube around the 
> edges, then start scraping.  Vasoline sounds better.
>  May stay in situ 
> better.
> 
>   CR
> 
> 
> Rick Lindsay wrote:
> 
> > The better technique I have used is to vacuum away
> any
> > loose debris, rotate the engine do the piston is
> at
> > TDC, fill the gap between the piston and cylinder
> with
> > grease or vasoline then clean the carbon away
> normally
> > - all the way to the piston's edge.
> 
> > rick

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 17 18:54:01 2008
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 18:54:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Paint Supplier
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8719e$f1862150$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
References: <000801c87184$c7a28dc0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<046401c87192$bc65ef20$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<000c01c8719e$f1862150$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <47B8E539.7020001@bradakis.com>

Just curious, as I do have an interest in keeping such
things going.  When wondering about the name of
the supplier you were thinking of, did you go to
http://www.team.net/archive and search the mgs
archive for something like 'spray paint cans' or
some such?  If you did, what happenend?  If you
didn't, why not?

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 17 18:58:53 2008
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 18:58:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGC lifters?
Message-ID: <47B8E65D.5000803@bradakis.com>

Another quick (??) question while I'm working on MG list
stuff.  Does anyone know of a supplier who stocks new
lifters for an MGC engine?

mjb.

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Sun Feb 17 20:38:01 2008
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 22:38:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump problem
Message-ID: <47B8FD99.9030306@tampabay.rr.com>

Thanks to all who responded with my dilemma. Update: The car is still 
not running. The new fuel pump I installed shows the same problem as the 
original, current but no clicking. Found a third pump, a rebuilt unit 
from 11/2000 on my shelf and before I installed it  I got a little 
smarter and put my battery charger to it and...no clicking. Hmmmm. Seems 
that these pumps do not like being inactive for extended periods of 
time. Gives one a false sense of security to have a new or rebuilt unit 
in the trunk for when the one in the car packs it in. I have been able 
to get the original pump clicking by putting a small screwdriver behind 
the points and lifting the diaphragm several times. That must have 
broken  whatever it was that prevented it from clicking while it was on 
the car. I was not that successful with the other two. I have a choice 
of cleaning the exterior of this one up or simply getting another new 
one that was just  put together and not sitting on a shelf somewhere 
for  a long time(yeah, right).
(Now's the time for one of those aftermarket pumps, Dave)
Cheers,
Dave Houser

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Feb 18 01:37:19 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:37:19 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
References: <141154.80756.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<47B891CB.1050605@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <00a201c8720b$485dc250$0200a8c0@Three>

The broken piston ring is to clean the ring grooves in the piston, not leave 
a ring around the crown.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>A broken piston ring was recommended to me for use as a scraper in this
> situation
>
>>> removing carbon
>>> ...it is best to leave a ring of carbon round the
>>> outer edge of the piston.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Feb 18 01:52:53 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:52:53 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump problem
References: <47B8FD99.9030306@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <00ac01c8720d$6293e4e0$0200a8c0@Three>

I did say the points oxidise on the shelf, and to clean them before 
rejecting the pump.  But if the pump is taking *current* then the points 
aren't oxidised, and either they are stuck together, the adjustment is 
incorrect i.e. the diaphragm isn't moving far enough to 'throw them over', 
or the diaphragm itself is stuck.  However I suspect that what you mean is 
you have *voltage* at the pump (did you check between the pump spade and the 
pump body?  If you check between the pump spade and the car body the pump 
ground could be faulty) as it is much more likely that the points will be 
oxidised on multiple pumps.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... Hmmmm. Seems
> that these pumps do not like being inactive for extended periods of
> time. 

From frankk at intap.net  Mon Feb 18 05:16:39 2008
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 07:16:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
References: <141154.80756.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<47B891CB.1050605@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <003201c87228$1d0ba5a0$0d42040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

The broken ring is used to scrape carbon out of the ring grooves. It has 
been done for years.
Frank Krajewski


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pat Harris - "sammler"" <sammler at bellsouth.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads


>A broken piston ring was recommended to me for use as a scraper in this
> situation - it seemed to work fine but I hadn't tried anything else,
> before or since.
>
>
>>> removing carbon
>>> ...it is best to leave a ring of carbon round the
>>> outer edge of the piston.
> _______________________________________________

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Feb 18 10:05:27 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 12:05:27 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
Message-ID: <bf3.2521da2e.34eb14d7@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2008 5:17:21 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
frankk at intap.net writes:

The  broken ring is used to scrape carbon out of the ring grooves. It has 
been  done for years.
Frank Krajewski


They used to make a tool for that, but you had to be really careful not to  
enlarge the ring grooves in the pistons.

 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From frankk at intap.net  Mon Feb 18 12:16:48 2008
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 14:16:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
References: <bf3.2521da2e.34eb14d7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000d01c87262$d0b455e0$fccba2ac@D3N5Y331>

I have that tool and it has several different ring groove sizes. I always 
preferred the broken ring as long as you managed to wrap it in something so 
you didn't cut the crap out of your hand!
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:05 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads


> In a message dated 2/18/2008 5:17:21 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> frankk at intap.net writes:
>
> The  broken ring is used to scrape carbon out of the ring grooves. It has
> been  done for years.
> Frank Krajewski
>
>
> They used to make a tool for that, but you had to be really careful not to
> enlarge the ring grooves in the pistons.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
>
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
>
> As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
> carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed,
> perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced 
> hands,
> the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and
> adjusted as
> described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Feb 18 13:20:08 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 21:20:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump problem
References: <47B8FD99.9030306@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <004101c8726b$a8359490$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Why not trying the pump with just some jump leads from a direct 12 V source.
The pump might well work then.
If this is hte fact, it is time to do some troubleshooting in the wiring and 
most of all the bullet connections.
Good hunting

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dave houser" <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com>
To: "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:38 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump problem


> Thanks to all who responded with my dilemma. Update: The car is still
> not running. The new fuel pump I installed shows the same problem as the
> original, current but no clicking. Found a third pump, a rebuilt unit
> from 11/2000 on my shelf and before I installed it  I got a little
> smarter and put my battery charger to it and...no clicking. Hmmmm. Seems
> that these pumps do not like being inactive for extended periods of
> time. Gives one a false sense of security to have a new or rebuilt unit
> in the trunk for when the one in the car packs it in. I have been able
> to get the original pump clicking by putting a small screwdriver behind
> the points and lifting the diaphragm several times. That must have
> broken  whatever it was that prevented it from clicking while it was on
> the car. I was not that successful with the other two. I have a choice
> of cleaning the exterior of this one up or simply getting another new
> one that was just  put together and not sitting on a shelf somewhere
> for  a long time(yeah, right).
> (Now's the time for one of those aftermarket pumps, Dave)
> Cheers,
> Dave Houser 

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Feb 18 16:22:34 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:22:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
Message-ID: <20080218.184010.736.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Paul,
   I've read in some texts,  very old ones, though, that one should place
a section of ring on top of piston before scraping, then scrape to the
ring.  It was not written, however, if that was to provide protection of
cylinder wall from the scraper, or if it was to preserve the ring of
carbon around the outer edge of the piston.
   I agree that there seems to be no reason to leave the ring of carbon,
but have read to do so in a number of sources. Perhaps it was a practice
in USA years ago. 
Bob

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:37:19 -0000 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
> The broken piston ring is to clean the ring grooves in the piston, 
> not leave 
> a ring around the crown.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >A broken piston ring was recommended to me for use as a scraper in 
> this
> > situation
> >
> >>> removing carbon
> >>> ...it is best to leave a ring of carbon round the
> >>> outer edge of the piston.

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb 18 18:08:05 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:08:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
References: <20080218.184010.736.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <06a001c87293$e2471f50$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads


Paul,
   I've read in some texts,  very old ones, though, that one should place
a section of ring on top of piston before scraping, then scrape to the
ring.  It was not written, however, if that was to provide protection of
cylinder wall from the scraper, or if it was to preserve the ring of
carbon around the outer edge of the piston.
   I agree that there seems to be no reason to leave the ring of carbon,
but have read to do so in a number of sources. Perhaps it was a practice
in USA years ago.
Bob
============================

Bob, I read quite some time ago that the reason for leaving the carbon ring 
is because it aids in sealing the combustion pressures from slipping down 
the cylinder walls.  Somewhat like another compression ring.

Take that for what it's worth.  I question it's worth in that respect.



Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb 18 19:00:43 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:00:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
In-Reply-To: <06a001c87293$e2471f50$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <C3DF784B.15534%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, that sounds like "wisdom" from the flathead days...

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
[Flat cap, but not flat head...]


on 2/18/08 5:08 PM, Larry Daniels at ladaniels at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> 
> Bob, I read quite some time ago that the reason for leaving the carbon ring
> is because it aids in sealing the combustion pressures from slipping down
> the cylinder walls.  Somewhat like another compression ring.
> 
> Take that for what it's worth.  I question it's worth in that respect.
> 
> 
> 
> Larry Daniels
> 
> 79 MGB LE
> 60 Bugeye
> 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

From battanhr at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 21:46:00 2008
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:46:00 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGA master cylinder bore size - a little OT
In-Reply-To: <C3DF784B.15534%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3DF784B.15534%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>

Can somebody please tell me the bore size for the MGA brake/clutch master 
cylinder? I have a friend in Ireland with a 1955 Morris Oxford Series 2 car 
who thinks that the brake/master cylinder is the same as that for the MGA, 
and needs a rebuilt or new master cylinder. The unit looks the same as the 
MGA unit, but we would like to confirm the bore sizes to be sure. Or if 
someone can confirm that the units are the same, that would be a great help, 
too.

TIA

Howard Battan

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Feb 18 23:55:04 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 00:55:04 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA master cylinder bore size - a little OT
In-Reply-To: <798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>
References: <C3DF784B.15534%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>
Message-ID: <20080219065513.5FD6B187668@autox.team.net>

At 08:46 PM 2/18/2008 -0800, Howard Battan wrote:
>Can somebody please tell me the bore size for the MGA brake/clutch master
>cylinder?

MGA master cylinder is 7/8" bore.

>I have a friend in Ireland with a 1955 Morris Oxford Series 2 car

Should be the same as MG ZA/ZB Magnette.

>who thinks that the brake/master cylinder is the same as that for 
>the MGA, and needs a rebuilt or new master cylinder. The unit looks 
>the same as the MGA unit, but we would like to confirm the bore 
>sizes to be sure.

I think it's the same as MGA, but not absolutely sure.

>Or if someone can confirm that the units are the same, that would be 
>a great help, too.
>....

Spridget with 1098cc engine is 3/4" bore, but all other Spridgets are 
7/8" bore, same as MGA.  Similar master cylinder is used for many 
other cars of  the period, nearly identical in appearance but not all 
the same bore.  I do not have list of sizes of others.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Feb 19 03:53:04 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 10:53:04 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump problem
References: <47B8FD99.9030306@tampabay.rr.com>
	<004101c8726b$a8359490$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <008701c872e6$ec5ef5f0$0200a8c0@Three>

Dave has already tried it with his charger.  That's not exactly the same as 
a battery-based source as most chargers simply rectify AC so you get pulsed 
DC, but I'd still expect some signs of life from the pump.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Why not trying the pump with just some jump leads from a direct 12 V 
> source.
> The pump might well work then.

>> ...  I got a little
>> smarter and put my battery charger to it and...no clicking. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Feb 19 03:49:19 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 10:49:19 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
References: <20080218.184010.736.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <008601c872e6$ec38d050$0200a8c0@Three>

Interesting, I hadn't come across that one before.  But then as I always 
say, I'm still learning.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   I've read in some texts,  very old ones, though, that one should place
> a section of ring on top of piston before scraping, then scrape to the
> ring.  It was not written, however, if that was to provide protection of
> cylinder wall from the scraper, or if it was to preserve the ring of
> carbon around the outer edge of the piston.

From battanhr at comcast.net  Tue Feb 19 07:50:22 2008
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 06:50:22 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGA master cylinder bore size - a little OT
Message-ID: <145AAC39F9A24796BCB0D1B7B72464D9@xps410>

Thanks, Barney. I'll pass this info on to my Irish friend.

Howard

----- Original Message ----- > 
> Spridget with 1098cc engine is 3/4" bore, but all other Spridgets are 
> 7/8" bore, same as MGA.  Similar master cylinder is used for many 
> other cars of  the period, nearly identical in appearance but not all 
> the same bore.  I do not have list of sizes of others.
> 
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com

From battanhr at comcast.net  Tue Feb 19 07:57:06 2008
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 06:57:06 -0800
Subject: [Mgs]  MGA master cylinder bore size - redux
In-Reply-To: <798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>
References: <C3DF784B.15534%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>
Message-ID: <9F743303D9C64C46BB9533D61668F4B8@xps410>

Along with the question below, does anybody know of a shop in the British 
Isles that can rebuild the Morris master cylinder? Someone similar to White 
Post Restorations in the USA.

Howard
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Howard Battan" <battanhr at comcast.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 8:46 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MGA master cylinder bore size - a little OT


> Can somebody please tell me the bore size for the MGA brake/clutch master
> cylinder? I have a friend in Ireland with a 1955 Morris Oxford Series 2 
> car
> who thinks that the brake/master cylinder is the same as that for the MGA,
> and needs a rebuilt or new master cylinder. The unit looks the same as the
> MGA unit, but we would like to confirm the bore sizes to be sure. Or if
> someone can confirm that the units are the same, that would be a great 
> help,
> too.
>
> TIA
>
> Howard Battan

From peter at nosimport.com  Tue Feb 19 08:25:24 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 09:25:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA master cylinder bore size - a little OT
In-Reply-To: <798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>
References: <C3DF784B.15534%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080219091159.01b73ec0@nosimport.com>

Howard, I have the Lockheed catalogue of the period. A 55 Oxford 
Series II and an MGA use the same master cylinder assembly part number 39121.

BTW, the Magnette cylinder is essentially the same with the minor 
detail that the brake and clutch bores are reversed! Reason to be 
cautious. That check valve in the wrong bore can be "pesky". The MGA 
pedal pivot is below the master and the bores face away from the 
driver. The Magnette pedal pivot is above the master and the bores 
face the driver.

Peter C.
=====
At 10:46 PM 2/18/2008, Howard Battan wrote:

>Can somebody please tell me the bore size for the MGA brake/clutch master
>cylinder? I have a friend in Ireland with a 1955 Morris Oxford Series 2 car
>who thinks that the brake/master cylinder is the same as that for the MGA,
>and needs a rebuilt or new master cylinder. The unit looks the same as the
>MGA unit, but we would like to confirm the bore sizes to be sure. Or if
>someone can confirm that the units are the same, that would be a great help,
>too.
>
>TIA
>
>Howard Battan

From battanhr at comcast.net  Tue Feb 19 08:40:34 2008
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 07:40:34 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGA master cylinder bore size - a little OT
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080219091159.01b73ec0@nosimport.com>
References: <C3DF784B.15534%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<798E2094981641239298D0BB6803C043@xps410>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080219091159.01b73ec0@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <6C789A2BC67D4D9CA3525F7AFF2ED851@xps410>

Thanks, Peter. That information helps a lot. I'll send it on.

Howard

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter C" <peter at nosimport.com>
To: "Howard Battan" <battanhr at comcast.net>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA master cylinder bore size - a little OT


> Howard, I have the Lockheed catalogue of the period. A 55 Oxford Series II 
> and an MGA use the same master cylinder assembly part number 39121.
>
> BTW, the Magnette cylinder is essentially the same with the minor detail 
> that the brake and clutch bores are reversed! Reason to be cautious. That 
> check valve in the wrong bore can be "pesky". The MGA pedal pivot is below 
> the master and the bores face away from the driver. The Magnette pedal 
> pivot is above the master and the bores face the driver.
>
> Peter C.

From Otis15 at aol.com  Tue Feb 19 09:36:36 2008
From: Otis15 at aol.com (Otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 11:36:36 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Removing Carbon Build Up on Piston Heads
Message-ID: <bcd.204ef16a.34ec5f94@aol.com>

I used silicone seal. The type in the calking tube. What the vacume  doesn't 
get sticks to the sealant.
Peels right of when dry.
 
                                                      Steve
                                                         
 
 
In a message dated 2/18/2008 6:42:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mgbob at juno.com writes:

Paul,
I've read in some texts,  very old ones,  though, that one should place
a section of ring on top of piston before  scraping, then scrape to the
ring.  It was not written, however, if  that was to provide protection of
cylinder wall from the scraper, or if it  was to preserve the ring of
carbon around the outer edge of the  piston.
I agree that there seems to be no reason to leave the  ring of carbon,
but have read to do so in a number of sources. Perhaps it  was a practice
in USA years ago. 
Bob

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008  08:37:19 -0000 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>  writes:
> The broken piston ring is to clean the ring grooves in the  piston, 
> not leave 
> a ring around the crown.
> 
>  PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >A broken  piston ring was recommended to me for use as a scraper in 
>  this
> > situation
> >
> >>> removing  carbon
> >>> ...it is best to leave a ring of carbon round  the
> >>> outer edge of the  piston.
You are subscribed  as  otis15 at aol.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Feb 20 12:22:41 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 11:22:41 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
Message-ID: <C3E1BE01.1563F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Before I take advantage of this break in the rain to go take a look at it, I
thought I'd solicit some input.

Patient is a 66 MGB with 4-synchro trans and late model starter. Symptom is
(with key in starting position) series of rapid clicks from under the
bonnet, but no turnover. This is a new one for me -- I am more used to
getting either instant fire-up or nothing (with occasional sluggish turnover
when the battery was tired).

Lights work. Fuel pump is functioning as normal. Alternator is new (2
weeks). Battery tested good when alternator was replaced, but has been under
a great deal of stress lately (haven't we all?). Electrics as a whole
functioning about as well as could be expected, being parked outside in a
wet winter.

I am assuming that the starter solenoid is the source of the clicking. I
suppose the question is why the starter motor is not turning. Insufficient
voltage could be one reason, but that would surprise me, as in the past it
has slowly rolled over even when the battery was scarcely strong enough to
tell that the headlights were switched on.



--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Feb 20 12:35:36 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 11:35:36 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start (addition)
Message-ID: <C3E1C108.1564A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Just tried it again, and it seemed to possibly be trying to turn over, very
slowly. At least it made a groaning sound before subsiding into clicking.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Feb 20 12:44:04 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 14:44:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
Message-ID: <20080220.144404.3076.31.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Max,
  With any starter troubles, first thing to do is to clean and refasten
wires to battery terminals.  High resistance there can allow for 12v to
show on the meter but insufficient current flow to power the starter.
Happened to me regularly in one MGB, a nuisance.  In that example problem
seemed to be a slightly undersize battery post.  Filing the jaws of the
cable so they fit tighter was the answer, though it took me a long time
to figure that out. 
Bob

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 11:22:41 -0800 Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> Before I take advantage of this break in the rain to go take a look 
> at it, I
> thought I'd solicit some input.
> 
> Patient is a 66 MGB with 4-synchro trans and late model starter. 
> Symptom is (with key in starting position) series of rapid clicks from
under 
> the bonnet, but no turnover. 

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Feb 20 12:51:16 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 11:51:16 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
In-Reply-To: <C3E1BE01.1563F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F2152@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Max:

Usually a bad primary cable connection shows up as allowing you to have
headlamps, pump etc, but as soon as you try to turn the engine over
everything goes dead.

This could be a high resistance connection or a low battery.

If you havn't driven the car in a while, I'd look at the battery having
internally drained especially if it is getting on a bit. Sulfation will
take out an older battery in about a month of disuse.

Or at least that's what happens with my 1970 that is sitting outside
getting wet. It makes it about a month between required re-charges. Can
you tell that I havn't been driving it lately?


The late MGB starter solenoid will rattle if there is not quite enough
juice to get the starter to grind. This also gets worse with time as the
starter bearings start to get wobbly.

Put a battery charger on the car, give it a couple of hours then retry.
If this doesn't help it's your primary battery connections.


Kelvin.




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:23 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
>
> Before I take advantage of this break in the rain to go take
> a look at it, I thought I'd solicit some input.
>
> Patient is a 66 MGB with 4-synchro trans and late model
> starter. Symptom is (with key in starting position) series of
> rapid clicks from under the bonnet, but no turnover. This is
> a new one for me -- I am more used to getting either instant
> fire-up or nothing (with occasional sluggish turnover when
> the battery was tired).
>
> Lights work. Fuel pump is functioning as normal. Alternator
> is new (2 weeks). Battery tested good when alternator was
> replaced, but has been under a great deal of stress lately
> (haven't we all?). Electrics as a whole functioning about as
> well as could be expected, being parked outside in a wet winter.
>
> I am assuming that the starter solenoid is the source of the
> clicking. I suppose the question is why the starter motor is
> not turning. Insufficient voltage could be one reason, but
> that would surprise me, as in the past it has slowly rolled
> over even when the battery was scarcely strong enough to tell
> that the headlights were switched on.
>
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as doddk at mossmotors.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Feb 20 14:00:48 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 15:00:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
In-Reply-To: <C3E1BE01.1563F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3E1BE01.1563F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <47BC9500.2000300@gmail.com>

Max Heim wrote:
> Before I take advantage of this break in the rain to go take a look at it, I
> thought I'd solicit some input.
>
> Patient is a 66 MGB with 4-synchro trans and late model starter. Symptom is
> (with key in starting position) series of rapid clicks from under the
> bonnet, but no turnover. This is a new one for me -- I am more used to
> getting either instant fire-up or nothing (with occasional sluggish turnover
> when the battery was tired).
>
> Lights work. Fuel pump is functioning as normal. Alternator is new (2
> weeks). Battery tested good when alternator was replaced, but has been under
> a great deal of stress lately (haven't we all?). Electrics as a whole
> functioning about as well as could be expected, being parked outside in a
> wet winter.
>
> I am assuming that the starter solenoid is the source of the clicking. I
> suppose the question is why the starter motor is not turning. Insufficient
> voltage could be one reason, but that would surprise me, as in the past it
> has slowly rolled over even when the battery was scarcely strong enough to
> tell that the headlights were switched on.
Probably a bad connection at the battery terminals. Enough juice to move the solenoid, but then the starter tries to engage, using the juice, so the solenoid disengages. Clicketty-click.

Lead oxide looks just like lead, but it's a poor conductor. Scrape the terminals and connectors until they're bright.

-The Roxter
--

From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Feb 20 15:11:22 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 17:11:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number
References: <a11dceec0802200854h36ce3f14rc6c9c0e50742145b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c8740d$87956190$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ted
  To: Dave Willner
  Cc: Blake J. Discher ; fred thomas ; triumphs at autox.team.net ;
mgs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number


  Dave's powder coaters may have matched the color, or may have provided a
powder coat #??  I'll see what I find out from Nittany Powder works.  I have
cans of Eastwood Argent from my wire wheel resto to use as a match.


  On Tue, Feb 5, 2008 at 8:27 AM, Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:

    I do have both Argent and Detail silver from Eastwood in spray cans. The
    Detail Silver, says "Correct for wire wheels," but swatches look exactly
the
    same, side by side. I'll follow up with Eastwoods for the Powder numbers.

    Thanks to all for the advice and help, appreciate it.


    Dave Willner
    Stroudsburg, PA
    59 TR3A Apple Green
    70 MGB BRG
    70 BSA 441 Victor Special


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
    To: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "Dave Willner"
    <dwillner at ptd.net>
    Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

    Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:38 PM
    Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number

    > Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
    >
=============================================================================
==================
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
    > To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
    > Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
    > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
    > Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
    >
    >
    >> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
    >> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
    >>
    >> Cheers,
    >> Blake Discher
    >>
    >>
    >> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
    >>
    >>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
    >>> seem to find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
    >>> hundred or so swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the
original paint
    >>> that looks pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a
hint of
    >>> yellow (not sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had
this done
    >>> and have an excellent match you're happy with that you could help me
out with?
    >>> Appreciate the help.
    >>>
    >>> Dave Willner
    >>> Stroudsburg, PA
    >>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
    >>> 70 MGB BRG
    >>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Feb 20 15:17:30 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 17:17:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number
References: <a11dceec0802200854h36ce3f14rc6c9c0e50742145b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8740e$63189a20$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

They matched my Argent and Detail Silver swatches I showed them exactly with a
stock powder they had.  I just picked them up yesterday and was really
impressed and dropped them off to have my Dunlops mounted so no pictures yet.
It's amazing how much the clear had yellowed and how "bright" they appear now,
I'm very pleased.  They did also blast the wheels first, so they look very
clean, and I was only charged $65 per wheel which I'm happy about as well.

Dave
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ted
  To: Dave Willner
  Cc: Blake J. Discher ; fred thomas ; triumphs at autox.team.net ;
mgs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] steel/wire wheel powder coat number


  Dave's powder coaters may have matched the color, or may have provided a
powder coat #??  I'll see what I find out from Nittany Powder works.  I have
cans of Eastwood Argent from my wire wheel resto to use as a match.


  On Tue, Feb 5, 2008 at 8:27 AM, Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:

    I do have both Argent and Detail silver from Eastwood in spray cans. The
    Detail Silver, says "Correct for wire wheels," but swatches look exactly
the
    same, side by side. I'll follow up with Eastwoods for the Powder numbers.

    Thanks to all for the advice and help, appreciate it.


    Dave Willner
    Stroudsburg, PA
    59 TR3A Apple Green
    70 MGB BRG
    70 BSA 441 Victor Special


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
    To: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>; "Dave Willner"
    <dwillner at ptd.net>
    Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

    Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:38 PM
    Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number

    > Blake is 100% correct  "FT"
    >
=============================================================================
==================
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer at blakedischer.com>
    > To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
    > Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
    > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 6:54 PM
    > Subject: Re: [TR] wire wheel powder coat number
    >
    >
    >> Fred Thomas may know better, but I believe you want ARGENT SILVER with
    >> a second powdercoat of CLEAR.
    >>
    >> Cheers,
    >> Blake Discher
    >>
    >>
    >> On Feb 4, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Dave Willner wrote:
    >>
    >>> I'm having my wire wheel media blasted and powder coated but can't
    >>> seem to find a perfect color match. I got dizzy Saturday looking at a
    >>> hundred or so swatches outside in the cold. The wheels have the
original paint
    >>> that looks pretty good rubbed out, a warm metallic silver/grey with a
hint of
    >>> yellow (not sure if this is weathered clear or not?). Has anyone had
this done
    >>> and have an excellent match you're happy with that you could help me
out with?
    >>> Appreciate the help.
    >>>
    >>> Dave Willner
    >>> Stroudsburg, PA
    >>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
    >>> 70 MGB BRG
    >>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Wed Feb 20 17:06:52 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 00:06:52 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] shipping engine block across the U.S.A
Message-ID: <022120080006.1600.47BCC09C000506C00000064022155670749F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Greetings oh wise and illustrious list.
Finally, after seeking and not finding a 15GD engine block for my mga, one has 
been found!
problem is, it's in North Carolina, and I'm  in California.
Another problem involves  $, but a friend in still a third state is helping me 
out.

Any suggestions as to what shipping services would be best?
I'm guessing the weight of block and crankshaft is around 200 lbs.
specific departure point either Asheville,  N.C. 
28801 or Charlotte, N.C.

To California, zip 94591

I think there's a song title in that subject line.
shipping engine block across the U.S.A

TIA
Eric--
1946 MG-TC

1959 MGA 
HDL43/65240
Engine # BP15GB 1350


65 mgb #GHN3L/ 55205
(think I'll have to sell this one soon)

1970 MGB # GHN5UA217587 G
Engine # 18G-WE-H-42967


71 MGB # GHN5UB 220942 G
engine # 18GK-WE-H-1768

74.5 MGB# GHN5UE364051 G
Engine # (to be filled in later)

2000 X-terra
So many cars, so little parking...

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Wed Feb 20 20:10:03 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 22:10:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start (addition)
In-Reply-To: <C3E1C108.1564A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3E1C108.1564A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <47BCEB8B.7030206@snet.net>

Echoing what others have said, I have experienced this on many occasions 
over the years, having lots of Ford products where the solenoid setup is 
the same as an MGB.  Always the rapid clicking was low battery voltage, 
although the root cause would vary among low battery, dead cell(s) in 
battery, or poor connections.  A voltmeter can be your best friend here 
(I can explain how) or a booster battery your next best friend, but that 
won't overcome the truly damaged battery.

Max Heim wrote:
> Just tried it again, and it seemed to possibly be trying to turn over, very
> slowly. At least it made a groaning sound before subsiding into clicking.

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Wed Feb 20 22:25:09 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 00:25:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] moma's speedometer repair
Message-ID: <000e01c8744a$3c040f00$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

does anyone have Momas's speedometer repair services?

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Feb 21 00:17:38 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:17:38 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] moma's speedometer repair
In-Reply-To: <000e01c8744a$3c040f00$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
References: <000e01c8744a$3c040f00$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <20080221071747.011C2187642@autox.team.net>

At 12:25 AM 2/21/2008 -0500, 1971-red-mgb wrote:
>does anyone have Momas's speedometer repair services?

Mo Ma Manufacturing - instrument repair - Email 
<mailto:momanm at qwest.net>momanm at qwest.net
1321 Second Street. NW, Albuquerque, NM 87102
Ph (505) 766-6661 - Fax (505) 766-5419

I've used them a few times.
All around satisfied customer.
Say hello to Margaret Lucas

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 05:00:06 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 04:00:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] moma's speedometer repair
In-Reply-To: <20080221071747.011C2187642@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <229971.80143.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

i sent them some gages, and they weren't interested.  didn't even want to bother fixing them, and sent them back after a month or two after i called them a few times.

Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:  At 12:25 AM 2/21/2008 -0500, 1971-red-mgb wrote:
>does anyone have Momas's speedometer repair services?

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Thu Feb 21 05:05:58 2008
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 07:05:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB at Axel Rose's House
Message-ID: <003b01c87482$1e9b3dc0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Just happened upon this vid on youtube - some guy playing guitar outside Axel
Rose's house - but there is an MGB roadster there! Anyone on this list?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdvKN88AmQE

Rick

Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
Coast English Car Club

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Feb 21 06:17:30 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 07:17:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] moma's speedometer repair
In-Reply-To: <229971.80143.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <20080221071747.011C2187642@autox.team.net>
	<229971.80143.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080221132955.8D3C6187646@autox.team.net>

First time I've heard that from Moma.  What kind of gages?


At 04:00 AM 2/21/2008 -0800, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>i sent them some gages, and they weren't interested.  didn't even 
>want to bother fixing them, and sent them back after a month or two 
>after i called them a few times.
>....
>Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:
>At 12:25 AM 2/21/2008 -0500, 1971-red-mgb wrote:
> >does anyone have Momas's speedometer repair services?
>....

From zsmithbob at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 07:11:32 2008
From: zsmithbob at aol.com (zsmithbob at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 09:11:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Subject:  shipping engine block across the U.S.A
Message-ID: <8CA42AACB5B6003-BFC-33D3@webmail-de06.sysops.aol.com>

You might try FedEx...they ship motor blocks all over the US.

Robert Smith/Huntsville, AL
________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
http://webmail.aol.com

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 21 07:19:42 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 06:19:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB at Axel Rose's House
Message-ID: <898347.93539.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hey, I think they guy that posted this - Dan Yarger - is on the MGB Yahoo group..... Dan, this you?

Dan D

----- Original Message ----
From: Rick Brown <mgrick at mgcars.org.uk>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 7:05:58 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MGB at Axel Rose's House

Just happened upon this vid on youtube - some guy playing guitar outside Axel
Rose's house - but there is an MGB roadster there! Anyone on this list?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdvKN88AmQE

Rick

Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
Coast English Car Club
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From twobees at sprynet.com  Thu Feb 21 08:36:33 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 10:36:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs]  shipping engine block across the U.S.A
Message-ID: <002201c8749f$8c93d5e0$4f451645@normoffice>

Eric:

If the block is cleaned and crated properly, any common carrier COULD ship
it.  My experience when I lived in Connecticut and had a B engine
race-prepped by Fab-Tek in Colorado was that many carriers didn't want it as
they considered it "hazardous cargo."  Eventually I found one & it went out
& back fine.  I don't remember the carrier though.

Another option is to join the Vintage Race Digest & see if you can find
someone driving from NC to CA with a racecar in a trailer.  Work out an
arrangement with them to bring it out.  Now, that being said, the best
chance of that would not be until August for the Monterey Historics.  But,
worth a shot.

Norm Sippel
'59 Turner
'60 Alfa

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Feb 21 09:56:39 2008
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 10:56:39 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump problem
In-Reply-To: <008701c872e6$ec5ef5f0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <47B8FD99.9030306@tampabay.rr.com>
	<004101c8726b$a8359490$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<008701c872e6$ec5ef5f0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <47BDAD47.90506@ktc.com>

  Hans is right.  A battery charger is not a power supply unless it's 
hooked up to a battery ( maybe a big capacitor); the battery then acts 
as a regulator, depending on it's internal resistance.  Sounds funny but 
that's the way of it.  The best thing to do is hook the charger to the 
battery and then hook the pump up direct to the battery terminals, using 
at least 18 gauge wires.

   Logically speaking, too many pumps don't work when hooked up to the 
car's internal wiring.  Not likely that ALL those pumps are bad.  I 
would suspect that there's some resistance in the car's wiring that's 
limiting the current to the pump.  I ran into the same thing with an MGB 
that had a corroded ground terminal in the boot.

   CR



Paul Hunt wrote:
> Dave has already tried it with his charger.  That's not exactly the same as 
> a battery-based source as most chargers simply rectify AC so you get pulsed 
> DC, but I'd still expect some signs of life from the pump.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> Why not trying the pump with just some jump leads from a direct 12 V 
>> source.
>> The pump might well work then.
> 
>>> ...  I got a little
>>> smarter and put my battery charger to it and...no clicking. 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Thu Feb 21 13:49:21 2008
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 14:49:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.1.20080221144210.02f1e770@mail.comcast.net>

Max,

I agree with the other posters about the baterry terminal approach, but 
another thing I've found that can be a problem is the ignition switch. If 
the contacts inside the switch are dirty, they can block current to the 
solenoid on the starter. It can be dismantled and cleaned in no time, if 
you've a mind to. Test by hot-wiring.

Glenn




It's all fun and games until someone puts an eye out.
And then we'll have an eye to play with.
					-Durwood

Glenn Schnittke
g.schnittke at comcast.net
glenn.schnittke at vanderbilt.edu

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 14:26:33 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 13:26:33 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F2152@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C3E32C89.15700%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I drive it every 2nd or 3rd day, generally. And I had just cleaned the
battery posts the other week when I installed the new alternator (and
naturally had to recharge the battery). The long battery cable (now +) is
looking a little ragged at the clamp end at present, but not fatally so.

I would have put the charger on it as a first step except it happened to be
parked out on the street today. So I just pulled the battery out and put it
on the charger in the garage. It seemed to have about a 60% charge...not
great, but I've seen worse.

I only posted because of the clicking -- usually, with a low battery it just
turns slower and slower until it stops.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 14:26:42 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 13:26:42 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F2152@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C3E32C92.15700%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

OK, with the battery charged up, it started. While I was at it I coated the
posts with dielectric grease (which I couldn't find the last time I was
monkeying with it).

Again, the only reason I posted was because of the unfamiliar clicking noise
( I know about keeping the terminals clean, etc., thanks all who replied),
but I guess that was irrelevant.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



> I drive it every 2nd or 3rd day, generally. And I had just cleaned the battery
> posts the other week when I installed the new alternator (and naturally had to
> recharge the battery). The long battery cable (now +) is looking a little
> ragged at the clamp end at present, but not fatally so.
> 
> I would have put the charger on it as a first step except it happened to be
> parked out on the street today. So I just pulled the battery out and put it on
> the charger in the garage. It seemed to have about a 60% charge...not great,
> but I've seen worse.
> 
> I only posted because of the clicking -- usually, with a low battery it just
> turns slower and slower until it stops.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Feb 21 14:45:25 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 13:45:25 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
In-Reply-To: <C3E32C92.15700%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F240C@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Max:

I've found the clicking noise to be very usual with external solenoid
type starters. There is just enough juice to cause the electro magnet in
the solenoid to pull in, but as soon as the main contacts make, the
extra draw to start the motor grinding is enough to drop the relay out
again.

Usually if the starter does grind slowly, the next time you try it will
just give you clicks.


I guess I've lived with low batteries in many cars for a long time.



Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:27 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non-start
>
> OK, with the battery charged up, it started. While I was at
> it I coated the posts with dielectric grease (which I
> couldn't find the last time I was monkeying with it).
>
> Again, the only reason I posted was because of the unfamiliar
> clicking noise ( I know about keeping the terminals clean,
> etc., thanks all who replied), but I guess that was irrelevant.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 14:53:38 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 13:53:38 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F240C@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C3E332E2.15723%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, it's funny, but this particular starter has almost always managed to
turn over slowly (even when it won't actually fire up), even when the
battery was almost completely flat. I'm used to that. I guess this time the
cold damp weather was an additional impediment.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/21/08 1:45 PM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote:

> Max:
> 
> I've found the clicking noise to be very usual with external solenoid
> type starters. There is just enough juice to cause the electro magnet in
> the solenoid to pull in, but as soon as the main contacts make, the
> extra draw to start the motor grinding is enough to drop the relay out
> again. 
> 
> Usually if the starter does grind slowly, the next time you try it will
> just give you clicks.
> 
> 
> I guess I've lived with low batteries in many cars for a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd 
> 
>  
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Max Heim
>> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:27 PM
>> To: MG List
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non-start
>> 
>> OK, with the battery charged up, it started. While I was at
>> it I coated the posts with dielectric grease (which I
>> couldn't find the last time I was monkeying with it).
>> 
>> Again, the only reason I posted was because of the unfamiliar
>> clicking noise ( I know about keeping the terminals clean,
>> etc., thanks all who replied), but I guess that was irrelevant.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Feb 21 15:26:36 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 14:26:36 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
In-Reply-To: <C3E332E2.15723%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F242E@kb1.mossmotors.com>

We are all getting older and creakier.

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:54 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Non-start
>
> Yeah, it's funny, but this particular starter has almost
> always managed to turn over slowly (even when it won't
> actually fire up), even when the battery was almost
> completely flat. I'm used to that. I guess this time the cold
> damp weather was an additional impediment.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From Otis15 at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 15:49:05 2008
From: Otis15 at aol.com (Otis15 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 17:49:05 EST
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
Message-ID: <be9.2955e5e2.34ef59e1@aol.com>

 Has anyone had a look at the new retractable roof  Miata's . Just left the  
dealers, I'm thinking about trading my 2002. It only has 19,000 miles but I  
really like the body style on the new ones. Any pros or cons appreciated.
                                                                           
Steve
                                                                           
Hubbard Ohio



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 16:08:03 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 18:08:03 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
Message-ID: <c81.217611cb.34ef5e53@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/20/2008 12:32:28 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes:

Symptom  is
(with key in starting position) series of rapid clicks from under  the
bonnet, but no turnover


Sounds like a corroded battery terminal...remove clean and replace  both 
clamps.  It only took the second time calling my father out in the  middle of the 
night to get me started to learn this as a teenager.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 16:43:07 2008
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 15:43:07 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <be9.2955e5e2.34ef59e1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C3E34C8B.15743%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Frankly, when I heard about this model, I immediately thought, "What a
terrible idea." It is so typical of modern carmakers that when they have a
beautifully simple & successful concept, they can't resist the urge to
clutter it up with gimmicks that make it less affordable and less reliable.
Fortunately, I believe they still offer the softtop option.

Continuing my rant, what really galls me about modern cars is the utter lack
of concern for weight (the folding hardtop being only one egregrious
example). People look at my 60s "muscle car" and say "oh, how big and
heavy", but it weighs less than the new Mini. BMW just introduced a
"1-Series" that weighs only 400lbs less than their 3-Series, which itself
weighs the same as a 70s Cadillac. New luxury cars are up in the commercial
vehicle weight class.

It's all so self-defeating -- they add power accessories and sound
deadening, which adds weight, which requires more structure for rigidity,
which adds more weight, which requires a larger engine to hit the
performance target, which adds more weight, requiring more structure and
more sound deadening, ad infinitum. I really think if they could resist the
temptation to add gimmicky features in the first place, they could stay out
of this vicious cycle. And no matter how well their luxo-sport sedan
performs now, it would perform even better if it just lost some weight (with
the added consumer benefits of lower cost and better mileage).

The manufacturers like to protest that the customers insist on all these
"features". I don't really see where the customers have any choice; since
the Japanese started this trend of loading everything on as "standard
equipment", everyone else followed suite, and now if you want, say, the 6cyl
engine, or the alloy wheels, you are stuck with thousands of dollars of
other crap as a "package". I don't mind if they offer power nose-wipers as
an extra-cost option, but just allow "a la carte" ordering and "delete
options".

OK, off the soapbox...I realize I'm not their "target demographic",
anyway...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 2/21/08 2:49 PM, Otis15 at aol.com at Otis15 at aol.com wrote:

>  Has anyone had a look at the new retractable roof  Miata's . Just left the
> dealers, I'm thinking about trading my 2002. It only has 19,000 miles but I
> really like the body style on the new ones. Any pros or cons appreciated.
>                  
> Steve
>                  
> Hubbard Ohio

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 17:58:58 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 18:58:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <C3E34C8B.15743%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3E34C8B.15743%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <DF80AC59-6111-4FBE-9BE2-478CD5B3A611@gmail.com>

On Feb 21, 2008, at 5:43 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>
> The manufacturers like to protest that the customers insist on all  
> these
> "features". I don't really see where the customers have any choice;  
> since
> the Japanese started this trend of loading everything on as "standard
> equipment", everyone else followed suite, and now if you want, say,  
> the 6cyl
> engine, or the alloy wheels, you are stuck with thousands of dollars  
> of
> other crap as a "package". I don't mind if they offer power nose- 
> wipers as
> an extra-cost option, but just allow "a la carte" ordering and "delete
> options".



You're right, Max. Unfortunately, it's going the other direction. More  
bundles.
Ford announced last week that it's simplifying the building of models  
by grouping or packaging more.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 18:11:24 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:11:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <C3E34C8B.15743%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3E34C8B.15743%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8A8E01BE-AE09-449F-BFF9-A1ABB6993E7C@gmail.com>

On Feb 21, 2008, at 5:43 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>
> The manufacturers like to protest that the customers insist on all  
> these
> "features". I don't really see where the customers have any choice;  
> since
> the Japanese started this trend of loading everything on as "standard
> equipment", everyone else followed suite, and now if you want, say,  
> the 6cyl
> engine, or the alloy wheels, you are stuck with thousands of dollars  
> of
> other crap as a "package". I don't mind if they offer power nose- 
> wipers as
> an extra-cost option, but just allow "a la carte" ordering and "delete
> options".



You're right, Max. Unfortunately, it's going the other direction. More  
bundles.
Ford announced last week that it's simplifying the building of models  
by grouping or packaging more.

From jevans at mydb3.com  Thu Feb 21 18:51:57 2008
From: jevans at mydb3.com (jevans at mydb3.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:51:57 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] 12th All British Car Swap Meet & Autojumble
References: In-Reply-To:
Message-ID: <1250.75.57.120.100.1203645117.squirrel@www.mydb3.com>

A quick follow up to earlier messages...looks like we will open the doors
Sunday morning to an almost sold out house with nearly 100 vendor
spaces...anyone planning to just show up & hope for a spot should call me
for a rundown on the situation...doors open at 8 AM & it's best to come in
the AM if you can...as usual, there will be a number of cars for sale in
the parking lot...make sure you enter the correct building as the Toy &
Model Car show will be running the same day on the premises in a separate
building so look for the two buildings with British flags out
front...vendor selection is outstanding - parts, clubs, restoration shops
& supplies, tools, regalia & more...hope all you listers in the midwest
can join us...anyone posting to other lists is encouraged to forward
this...Chicago has had a rough February but at this time there is no snow
or ice on any public thoroughfares, all roads good and the forecast is
sunny, clear and mid-30's...swap meet location is at the DuPage County
Fairgrounds in Wheaton IL...one day only from 8 AM to 3 PM.

Any questions - email me off list or call me at 630-858-8192 or see the
website at http://www.britishcarswap.info

Mapquest to 2015 West Manchester Road, Wheaton Illinois 60187

Hope to see you there!

FOR THE CHICAGOLAND MG CLUB
Jim Evans

From strovato at optonline.net  Thu Feb 21 19:09:22 2008
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:09:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] miata question (Paul Root)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2466.1203645137.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2466.1203645137.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0JWM00L31BBO3UP0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

You know, there is a miata list.  You'll probably get a lot more info 
over there.  Check out:

http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


-Steve Trovato
-90 Miata
-58 MGA
-55 Magnette

From montejane at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 20:35:31 2008
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:35:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] battery cut off switch
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0802211935i79a63728o780bcef2dfe8895e@mail.gmail.com>

With all the talk about clicking under the bonnet and non-starting, I
thought I would share a couple of thoughts.
Several years ago, I was parked in a friend's garage when smoke started
coming from beneath the dash. It took several minutes (meanwhile thinking
that I was going to burn down his garage) for me to find a screwdriver and
get the battery compartment open to disconnect the battery. Luckily, it
ended up being an ignition switch malfunction and only melted about a foot
of the brown wire and not the garage:).
 After this scare, I installed a battery cut off switch on the vertical
panel just in front of the battery. Now I reach behind the passenger seat
and cut off the battery every time I park the car. As and added benefit, I
also found that this took care of the irritating battery drain that I used
to experience requiring recharging the battery after sitting unused for over
two weeks. It also is a good theft deterrent, as most thieves probably won't
look behind the seat when the car won't start.
I encourage everyone to invest in a battery cut-off switch to protect your
investment.
Monte

currently travelling in RV and lurking...................................

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 21:50:44 2008
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 23:50:44 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
Message-ID: <c94.270a39fd.34efaea4@aol.com>

I'm a died in the wool sports car fan.  And, I own four vintage  British 
sports cars to prove it.  I also own 2008 MX5 Miata, with  convertible hardtop.  I 
completely understand concerns posted about  weight.  Cars are getting way to 
heavy these days....ridiculously  heavy.  But, the added features in the 
retractable hardtop MX5 have  been compensated for with obsessive attention to 
weight, balance, and  performance in the overall car.  In short, this car is 
brilliant.  If  you really love sports cars you owe it to yourself to buy one of 
these.   For under $30,000 you get more sports car than twice that amount would 
buy in  another brand.  Take a look at these videos if you have any doubts.
 
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz667IYwGGA&feature=related_ 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz667IYwGGA&feature=related) 
 
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-6qB-tvq5A&NR=1_ 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-6qB-tvq5A&NR=1) 
 
Bill Wilkman
1960 MGA
1958 Bugeye
1958 Morgan Plus 4
1961 Austin Healey BT7
2008 Mazda MX5



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 22:16:58 2008
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 23:16:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <c94.270a39fd.34efaea4@aol.com>
References: <c94.270a39fd.34efaea4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47BE5ACA.7000409@sbcglobal.net>

Bill,

Glad you like your Mazda.  I looked at them quite seriously but bought a 
Honda S2000.  Not that much more than a comparably equipped MX5.  And I 
don't care about a retractable hardtop. 

Charles Hill

Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
> I'm a died in the wool sports car fan.  And, I own four vintage  British 
> sports cars to prove it.  I also own 2008 MX5 Miata, with  convertible hardtop.  I 
> completely understand concerns posted about  weight.  Cars are getting way to 
> heavy these days....ridiculously  heavy.  But, the added features in the 
> retractable hardtop MX5 have  been compensated for with obsessive attention to 
> weight, balance, and  performance in the overall car.  In short, this car is 
> brilliant.  If  you really love sports cars you owe it to yourself to buy one of 
> these.   For under $30,000 you get more sports car than twice that amount would 
> buy in  another brand.  Take a look at these videos if you have any doubts.
>  
> _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz667IYwGGA&feature=related_ 
> (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz667IYwGGA&feature=related) 
>  
> _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-6qB-tvq5A&NR=1_ 
> (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-6qB-tvq5A&NR=1) 
>  
> Bill Wilkman
> 1960 MGA
> 1958 Bugeye
> 1958 Morgan Plus 4
> 1961 Austin Healey BT7
> 2008 Mazda MX5

From derek at vandivere.net  Fri Feb 22 03:05:07 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:05:07 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <be9.2955e5e2.34ef59e1@aol.com>
References: <be9.2955e5e2.34ef59e1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2481.77.63.142.108.1203674707.squirrel@vandivere.net>

As my Pop's bumper sticker says: "Real Miatas have pop-up headlights".

And, thanks to Dad, my new mohair top was installed on the B this week!
Best surprise Christmas present ever (well, the Tom Lehrer box set he gave
me a few years ago is a close second).

Derek, 78 B

>  Has anyone had a look at the new retractable roof  Miata's . Just left
> the
> dealers, I'm thinking about trading my 2002. It only has 19,000 miles but
> I
> really like the body style on the new ones. Any pros or cons appreciated.
>
> Steve
>
> Hubbard Ohio
>
>
>
> **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
> (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
> 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as derek at vandivere.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 22 07:28:50 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 06:28:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
Message-ID: <232636.36749.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I haven't gone to a dealership to look at one, but I have seen both thesoft-top and hard-top versions of the new Miata. In general, I don'tlike the new car. It's bigger and heavier than the previous model, andI think looks less distinctive. My brother-in-law has a '93, and I lovethat car - small, quick, great engine note, very simple and easy topdesign.... And I love the shifter - just a flick of the wrist andyou're away!

I think the hard-top is a great idea for the majority of Miata driversI see around here, who leave their hardtops on well into June and putthem back on in September. The rest of the time, they drive around withthe top up and the A/C on! 

I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I always wonder whythey bother buying this car (same with the BMW Z-series cars) if theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
 
 
Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver -  What's that smoke? 
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....  
'04 Audi A4 1.8T q 
MT-6NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

----- Original Message ----
From: "Otis15 at aol.com" <Otis15 at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 5:49:05 PM
Subject: [Mgs] miata question

 Has anyone had a look at the new retractable roof  Miata's . Just left the  
dealers, I'm thinking about trading my 2002. It only has 19,000 miles but I  
really like the body style on the new ones. Any pros or cons appreciated.
                                                                           
Steve
                                                                           
Hubbard Ohio



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From frankk at intap.net  Fri Feb 22 10:39:12 2008
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:39:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
References: <232636.36749.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c87579$d81ab260$39810fce@D3N5Y331>

Dan et al: Have to confess that I became a Miata owner last year. Mea culpa. 
Found a pristine 1991 Special Edition, BRG of course that I literally stole. 
One owner with 50K. It is quite well equipped, ac, cd player, leather, 
cruise control, power windows, hard top, etc.  The great thing is that when 
I drive it in the rain with the heater or ac on, wipers going, lights on and 
radio playing I don't blow any fuses and everythings functions all the time 
while returning 36 mpg.  I am not substituting the Miata for my LBCs but it 
is a great daily driver. Starst every time! It was the BRG that sold me 
however. Still prefer my old B when the weather permits.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: <Otis15 at aol.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question


>I haven't gone to a dealership to look at one, but I have seen both 
>thesoft-top and hard-top versions of the new Miata. In general, I don'tlike 
>the new car. It's bigger and heavier than the previous model, andI think 
>looks less distinctive. My brother-in-law has a '93, and I lovethat car - 
>small, quick, great engine note, very simple and easy topdesign.... And I 
>love the shifter - just a flick of the wrist andyou're away!
>
> I think the hard-top is a great idea for the majority of Miata driversI 
> see around here, who leave their hardtops on well into June and putthem 
> back on in September. The rest of the time, they drive around withthe top 
> up and the A/C on!
>
> I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I always wonder 
> whythey bother buying this car (same with the BMW Z-series cars) if 
> theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
>
>
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver -  What's that smoke?
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
> '04 Audi A4 1.8T q
> MT-6NAMGBR #5-2328

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 10:44:36 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:44:36 EST
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
Message-ID: <c12.2bbd7280.34f06404@aol.com>

Sounds like someone should market a fibreglass MGB body that fits on a  
Miata!   Get the traditional looks with the modern mod cons and  reliability.
 
Naw, come to think of it, if anyone went to all that trouble, they wouldn't  
bother with the MGB, they'd use the much nicer looking MGA.....:-)
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 2/22/2008 9:39:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
frankk at intap.net writes:

I am not  substituting the Miata for my LBCs but it 
is a great daily driver. Starst  every time! It was the BRG that sold me 
however. Still prefer my old B  when the weather permits.

From don at napanet.net  Fri Feb 22 11:10:24 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:10:24 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <c12.2bbd7280.34f06404@aol.com>
References: <c12.2bbd7280.34f06404@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1203703824.47bf10103e0bc@webmail.napanet.net>

How many people on this list have both a Miata and an MG?  I do!  I prefer a
Miata for everyday transport, plus the MGs need some fixin'.
Don Scott
'62 MGA roadster
'91 Miata SE
'92 Integra GSR
'73 MGB GT

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Feb 22 11:00:29 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:00:29 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <1203703824.47bf10103e0bc@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F2530@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I did have.

When my '65 MGB got rear ended on the freeway commute, I bought a used
'99 Miata.

It got rear ended and totalled about two weeks later. I'm now driving a
slightly bigger car that cost a LOT less money. I think of it as my
"throw down" commuting car.


The motor and trans from the Miata are going to live again in one of my
MGAs though.


Kelvin.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of don at napanet.net
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:10 AM
> To: WSpohn4 at aol.com
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question
>
> How many people on this list have both a Miata and an MG?  I
> do!  I prefer a Miata for everyday transport, plus the MGs
> need some fixin'.
> Don Scott
> '62 MGA roadster
> '91 Miata SE
> '92 Integra GSR
> '73 MGB GT

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 11:10:26 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:10:26 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
References: <c12.2bbd7280.34f06404@aol.com>
Message-ID: <026f01c8757e$34028a90$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <WSpohn4 at aol.com>
To: <frankk at intap.net>; <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question


Sounds like someone should market a fibreglass MGB body that fits on a
Miata!   Get the traditional looks with the modern mod cons and 
reliability.

Naw, come to think of it, if anyone went to all that trouble, they wouldn't
bother with the MGB, they'd use the much nicer looking MGA.....:-)

Bill

 =========================

Ewww... I'm in, Bill.  An MGA with Miata underpinnings.  Add a mildly blown 
Miata motor oh, say, 200 HP and all the modern conveniences.  I prefer the 
1500 or 1600 body -- don't like the tailights or the pre-crushed grille of 
the Mark II.

Done deal.  Where do I sign up?

Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 11:16:28 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 13:16:28 EST
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
Message-ID: <d18.2204c59a.34f06b7c@aol.com>

I agree - the original 1500 taillights are nicest, although the Mk 2 also  
don't look bad - for being Mini turned on their sides, they actually work fairly 
 well.
 
Personally I think that a coupe would be a better choice - roll up windows  
and maybe a removable hard top like that one plastic bodied prototype a guy in  
the US made.
 
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 2/22/2008 10:11:04 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes:

Ewww...  I'm in, Bill.  An MGA with Miata underpinnings.  Add a mildly blown  
Miata motor oh, say, 200 HP and all the modern conveniences.  I  prefer the 
1500 or 1600 body -- don't like the tailights or the  pre-crushed grille of 
the Mark II.

Done deal.  Where do I sign  up?

From RampantNM at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 11:24:27 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 13:24:27 EST
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
Message-ID: <c39.264bd0f5.34f06d5b@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/22/2008 11:11:19 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes:

Ewww...  I'm in, Bill.  An MGA with Miata underpinnings.  Add a mildly blown  
Miata motor oh, say, 200 HP and all the modern conveniences.  I  prefer the 
1500 or 1600 body -- don't like the tailights or the  pre-crushed grille of 
the Mark II.

Done deal.  Where do I sign  up?



Yeah Baby!  Especially if they include the Coupe!

 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 11:27:44 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:27:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
References: <c39.264bd0f5.34f06d5b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
To: <rhouston at transervicios.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question


In a message dated 2/22/2008 11:11:19 AM Mountain Standard Time,
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes:

Ewww...  I'm in, Bill.  An MGA with Miata underpinnings.  Add a mildly blown
Miata motor oh, say, 200 HP and all the modern conveniences.  I  prefer the
1500 or 1600 body -- don't like the tailights or the  pre-crushed grille of
the Mark II.

Done deal.  Where do I sign  up?



Yeah Baby!  Especially if they include the Coupe!


Regards,

Robert B. Houston

===============================

Like Bill said, a removable hardtop.  I still enjoy the wind blowing through 
my bald spot.


Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Feb 22 11:39:36 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:39:36 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F2556@kb1.mossmotors.com>

You mean something a bit like this:

http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/photos/kelvindmoss/picture12009.aspx




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Daniels
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:28 AM
> To: RampantNM at aol.com; rhouston at transervicios.com
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
> To: <rhouston at transervicios.com>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 12:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question
>
>
> In a message dated 2/22/2008 11:11:19 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> Ewww...  I'm in, Bill.  An MGA with Miata underpinnings.  Add
> a mildly blown
> Miata motor oh, say, 200 HP and all the modern conveniences.
> I  prefer the
> 1500 or 1600 body -- don't like the tailights or the
> pre-crushed grille of
> the Mark II.
>
> Done deal.  Where do I sign  up?
>
>
>
> Yeah Baby!  Especially if they include the Coupe!
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
>
> ===============================
>
> Like Bill said, a removable hardtop.  I still enjoy the wind
> blowing through
> my bald spot.
>
>
> Larry Daniels
>
> 79 MGB LE
> 60 Bugeye
> 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)
>
> "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
> doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
> shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as doddk at mossmotors.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 11:41:37 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:41:37 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question... now Mark II MGA
References: <c39.264bd0f5.34f06d5b@aol.com>
	<028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <029501c87582$8ec3e420$6401a8c0@Larry>

Speaking of the Mark II MGA, does anybody have a good set of 1622 standard 
bore pistons that they pulled from their Mark II when boring it out?

I'm looking for the flat tops.  Moss doesn't carry them anymore.  VB does, 
but I'd prefer not to deal with them... plus, I don't mind giving a little 
gas money to somebody who has some unneeded ones just taking up space.

Larry Daniels

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 11:46:32 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:46:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D5F2556@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <02a201c87583$3ec03a90$6401a8c0@Larry>

Uh, huh. Something like that, but a MGA-rebodied Miata rather than a 
miata-motored MGA.

Getting old.  I like the conveniences, but I love the MGA body.

Larry Daniels



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>; <RampantNM at aol.com>; 
<rhouston at transervicios.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: [Mgs] miata question


You mean something a bit like this:

http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/photos/kelvindmoss/picture12009.aspx




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Daniels
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:28 AM
> To: RampantNM at aol.com; rhouston at transervicios.com
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
> To: <rhouston at transervicios.com>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 12:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question
>
>
> In a message dated 2/22/2008 11:11:19 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> Ewww...  I'm in, Bill.  An MGA with Miata underpinnings.  Add
> a mildly blown
> Miata motor oh, say, 200 HP and all the modern conveniences.
> I  prefer the
> 1500 or 1600 body -- don't like the tailights or the
> pre-crushed grille of
> the Mark II.
>
> Done deal.  Where do I sign  up?
>
>
>
> Yeah Baby!  Especially if they include the Coupe!
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
>
> ===============================
>
> Like Bill said, a removable hardtop.  I still enjoy the wind
> blowing through
> my bald spot.
>
>
> Larry Daniels
>
> 79 MGB LE
> 60 Bugeye
> 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)
>
> "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
> doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
> shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as doddk at mossmotors.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From don at napanet.net  Fri Feb 22 12:14:24 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:14:24 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <c39.264bd0f5.34f06d5b@aol.com>
	<028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <1203707664.47bf1f10ed542@webmail.napanet.net>

An MGA coupe is a sauna on wheels in hot weather!  The engine heat and lack of
ventilation tend to cook the occupants of the car.



Quoting Larry Daniels <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>:

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
> To: <rhouston at transervicios.com>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 12:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question
> 
> 
> In a message dated 2/22/2008 11:11:19 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes:
> 
> Ewww...  I'm in, Bill.  An MGA with Miata underpinnings.  Add a mildly blown
> Miata motor oh, say, 200 HP and all the modern conveniences.  I  prefer the
> 1500 or 1600 body -- don't like the tailights or the  pre-crushed grille of
> the Mark II.
> 
> Done deal.  Where do I sign  up?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah Baby!  Especially if they include the Coupe!
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 
> ===============================
> 
> Like Bill said, a removable hardtop.  I still enjoy the wind blowing through
> 
> my bald spot.
> 
> 
> Larry Daniels
> 
> 79 MGB LE
> 60 Bugeye
> 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)
> 
> "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
> doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
> shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Feb 22 11:59:12 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:59:12 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
References: <c39.264bd0f5.34f06d5b@aol.com><028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<1203707664.47bf1f10ed542@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <187101c87585$036797c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<An MGA coupe is a sauna on wheels in hot weather!  The engine heat and lack
of
ventilation tend to cook the occupants of the car.>>

Just need to engineer a "re-moveable" rear window!!!<G>

Get right on that, Kelvin?????    LOL

Anon

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Feb 22 12:04:13 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 13:04:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <187101c87585$036797c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <c39.264bd0f5.34f06d5b@aol.com><028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<1203707664.47bf1f10ed542@webmail.napanet.net>
	<187101c87585$036797c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <E40A9FF3-5E40-41DA-94DC-60FC8446D729@gmail.com>

Pull it out of a pickup?

May as well get the gun rack too. :-)

On Feb 22, 2008, at 12:59 PM, <shop at justbrits.com>  
<shop at justbrits.com> wrote:

> <<An MGA coupe is a sauna on wheels in hot weather!  The engine heat  
> and lack
> of
> ventilation tend to cook the occupants of the car.>>
>
> Just need to engineer a "re-moveable" rear window!!!<G>
>
> Get right on that, Kelvin?????    LOL
>
> Anon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 12:05:35 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 14:05:35 EST
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
Message-ID: <ca2.272f9fe6.34f076ff@aol.com>

Actually, I can see why you might think so, but that isn't the case. The  
tunnel certainly needs the layer of insulation under the carpet that everyone  
should put in any MGA, but in the coupe you actually have a no-draft quarter  
window that blows forced air at you and with the side windows down I'd far  
rather be driving in really hot weather in the coupe than a roadster.
 
Bill
(1962 MGA Coupe)
 
 
In a message dated 2/22/2008 10:56:10 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
don at napanet.net writes:

An MGA  coupe is a sauna on wheels in hot weather!  The engine heat and lack  
of
ventilation tend to cook the occupants of the  car.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Feb 22 14:32:22 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 15:32:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <C3E34C8B.15743%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3E34C8B.15743%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <47BF3F66.9020500@gmail.com>

Max Heim wrote:
> People look at my 60s "muscle car" and say "oh, how big and
> heavy", but it weighs less than the new Mini. 
Every block near me has at least one of the BINIs. On my driveway sits my 67 Cooper S. It has a Factory racing engine built by Adrian Goodenough for Sebring. I detuned it slightly by installing a Vizard Scatter Cam and a standard flywheel, but it will still do 130 mph on a cool day and spin circles around the BMW thing on a hard corner.

-The Roxter
--

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Feb 22 14:32:46 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 15:32:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
References: <ca2.272f9fe6.34f076ff@aol.com>
Message-ID: <05c401c8759a$7775c780$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<...quarter window that blows forced air at you and with the side windows
down I'd far
rather be driving in really hot weather in the coupe than a roadster.>>

Actually Bill, for long trips or VERY hot days, I ALWAYS have hood erected
with rear window "un-clipped" in my BJ-7 Big Healey and there is at least a 20
degree difference!!!  So I would rather be in a "roadster" (in my case called
convertible<G> as most MGB also are<VBG>)!!!

Hey, how come you haven't Reg'ed for my "Joke (HUGE mis-nomer) Section nor
sub'ed to Joke List?? Just read below GREEN******Line !!

Ed & "Hortense"
PLEASE READ THIS (it is NOT a "sales pitch"<G>)!!
*****************************************************************************
**********
You might enjoy registering for my "Joke (very BIG mis-nomer) Section" !!
Over 400 videos of one type or another (and I have about 100 to put up!!).
The process is painless and automatic (when this computer is on<G> which is
most of the time.)

Then be SURE to watch the TWO Aircraft Carrier Landings in WM*s area
(UN-real!!) and "Where/What is Dubai" in the PP*s area (some of the finest
photography I have EVER seen!!).

And if yer interested, I also offer a "Joke Mailing"!!  Attachments ALLOWED
(and encouraged<G>) & adult stuff ALLOWED (and encouraged<G>)!!  Plain ole
GROANERS also "allowed"<G>!!

Started out as just a bunch of grumpy Spridgeteers that wanted the type of
List and couldn't find on.  Was about 50 folks.  Now well over 200 (BUNCH of
lurkers).  You can even opt for digest.  Same program MJB switched to<G>.  Not
a very busy one.  Dec = 373 posts.  Occasionally, there are even tech
questions<G>!!

To join just send a mail to:  9issa-request at justbrits.com with NO "Subject:"
and just the word    subscribe     in the body.  Rest is automatic.  If you
happen to belong to any autox List, mine works EXACTLY the same!!  I strongly
suggest that upon receipt of Conformation mail that you go to the site listed
and change the auto-generated password to one of your own!!

Couple "T"s, 4 or 5 MGBers and 5 or 6 AHers.  NO politics.  Different List!!

Ed

'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD ILL plates    AH BJ 7    )
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (28 or 29 yrs)
Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA
Please visit my web site at:  www.justbrits.com

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 15:36:27 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:36:27 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Champ Car/IRL Deal
Message-ID: <030801c875a3$5da829c0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Champ car & IRL reach a deal to combine.  Armageddon is near.

http://tinyurl.com/2e4wvk

From wkilleffer at comcast.net  Fri Feb 22 17:33:44 2008
From: wkilleffer at comcast.net (William Killeffer)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 19:33:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Miatas
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2535.1203704202.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2535.1203704202.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7BB336F8-8D37-436F-A3BB-FAB4B1AD7962@comcast.net>

Hello listers,

I've never owned a Miata, but it seems like a white 1991 model was  
one of the first "fun" cars I ever drove. This was somewhere around  
2000, and I had just had to move back in with the folks after a  
period of living on my own. As nice as they are and were, it was kind  
of a downer, and it was starting to show in my demeanor. That car  
showed up at a used car lot not too far from their house. They're not  
the types to advocate retail therapy, but they knew I liked cars and  
had always had a yen for something fun and sporty. So, they  
encouraged me to go check it out.

It was a fun driver, and I kept it on the test drive more or less  
what the maximum allowable time for a test would be before the cops  
are called. It was high mileage and the asking price was too high  
considering. I decided to pass as it had a few problems, including a  
bad radiator. Ended up getting a Chevrolet S-10, and we had our  
moments together, but that's another story.

Once I finish school and re-join the ranks of the professionals, it's  
tempting to go out looking for one. The older ones may be a bit long  
in the tooth these days, but they're getting to that cheap fun stage  
where you can do fun things with them without blowing a big chunk of  
change.

Thanks for allowing me to think about a fun old memory.

-William Killeffer
1974 MGB

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Fri Feb 22 19:09:16 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 21:09:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <be9.2955e5e2.34ef59e1@aol.com>
References: <be9.2955e5e2.34ef59e1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47BF804C.1070707@snet.net>

I saw the new Miatas at the dealer and just can't warm up to them.  I 
have a 2002 with a few doo dads, like power windows, cruise, CD, etc.  
The top goes up and down so easily I just can't see the need for much 
more.  The top is down whenever weather permits.

Originally my wife's car, I took it over because people kept driving in 
to her.  We got her something a little more obvious.

But after we bought the Miata, and before it became my daily driver, I 
bought a low mileage 1991 no-frills version at Carisle Import.  I drove 
it over a summer, and comparing the two, I found the '91 to be more fun 
to drive.  Perhaps a little lighter, a little smaller, more interior 
room, and somehow seemed like more of a toy.  When the 2002 became mine, 
I had to let it go.  The 2002 was also a good deal when I bought it, and 
it still has a certified warranty for 100,000 miles.  The little '91 got 
a good new home, but I still sort of miss it.

Otis15 at aol.com wrote:
>  Has anyone had a look at the new retractable roof  Miata's . Just left the  
> dealers, I'm thinking about trading my 2002. It only has 19,000 miles but I  
> really like the body style on the new ones. Any pros or cons appreciated.
>                                                                            
> Steve
>                                                                            
> Hubbard Ohio

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 20:33:06 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 21:33:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Thicko] Champ Car/IRL Deal
References: <030801c875a3$5da829c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<743b1e2f0802221926t185c1970v23f4429f46e475a0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <038701c875cc$ce88d030$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message -----
From: Patton Dickson
To: Larry Daniels
Cc: Team Thicko ; Spridgets List ; MG List ; bugeye at yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Thicko] Champ Car/IRL Deal


Hopefully they can field enough competitive teams with drivers with
personality that's it's interesting.   I guess I'll go to the Texas race this
year.

Patton


On Fri, Feb 22, 2008 at 4:36 PM, Larry Daniels <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

  Champ car & IRL reach a deal to combine.  Armageddon is near.

  http://tinyurl.com/2e4wvk
  _______________________________________________


One of the guys from the Spridgets list sent this to me off list:

Read this. He hits all points.

http://sports.espn.go.com/rpm/columns/story?seriesId=1&columnist=mcgee_ryan&i
d=3257069

I have to agree.


Larry Daniels

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 21:01:14 2008
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:01:14 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
Message-ID: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>

>>>>>I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I  always wonder 
whythey bother buying this car >>>>>(same with the  BMW Z-series cars) if 
theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
 
I understand what you're saying.  I, too, prefer to drive top down and  I 
tend to scowl at those who seem never to have the top down.  But there is  a 
matter of reality that needs to be considered.  The tops on our British  classics 
are a royal pain in the ass to put up and down.  When my dad was  using his 
MGA as a daily driver in the 1960s, the top went up in November and  didn't come 
down until April. From April to November the top was always  down.  The 
reason my dad's top never went down in the winter or up during  the rest of the 
year was because it was too much trouble to raise and  lower.  And, the reason I 
drive that same car today with the top always  down is...you guessed 
it....because it's too much of a pain to put up...that,  and because I only drive the 
car in fair weather.
 
That said I almost always drove my 1990 MX5 with the top down.   
Why...because it was more fun that way!  I don't think things will  change with the 2008 
MX5, but I do love the way the car looks with the top  up.
 
Bill Wilkman 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Feb 23 05:54:11 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:54:11 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] battery cut off switch
References: <cab4b95c0802211935i79a63728o780bcef2dfe8895e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <04e601c8761c$91c1acd0$0200a8c0@Three>

Strongly second this.  Both my MGBs have suffered wiring damage from shorts 
before my ownership, and it could take a couple of minutes to disconnect the 
battery even with tools in the car.  I installed a battery cut-off switch in 
the V8 when it changed from being my daily driver to recreational (well, it 
was always 'recreational' even as a daily driver) and the alarm (even when 
not set and garaged) used to drain the battery every couple of weeks and I 
was replacing the battery every couple of years.  Now like Monte I turn it 
off most times I park it.  The roadster has never suffered from battery 
drain, but something has been nagging at me to fit one to that as well, so 
I'm hoping to get one at a local MG show this weekend.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Several years ago, I was parked in a friend's garage when smoke started
> coming from beneath the dash. It took several minutes (meanwhile thinking
> that I was going to burn down his garage) for me to find a screwdriver and
> get the battery compartment open to disconnect the battery...
> I encourage everyone to invest in a battery cut-off switch to protect your
> investment.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Feb 23 05:57:52 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:57:52 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump problem
References: <47B8FD99.9030306@tampabay.rr.com>
	<004101c8726b$a8359490$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<008701c872e6$ec5ef5f0$0200a8c0@Three> <47BDAD47.90506@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <04e701c8761c$91f16f60$0200a8c0@Three>

If you are going to use a battery anyway you don't need a charger as well. 
Unless the battery is flat.  For the current the pump takes the gauge of the 
wire is also largely irrelevant.  If the pump works when connected directly 
to a 12v battery, but not to other points in the car electrics like the 
fusebox, then there are major problems with those wire that need to be fixed 
as well.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  The best thing to do is hook the charger to the battery and then hook 
> the pump up direct to the battery terminals, using at least 18 gauge 
> wires.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Feb 23 06:07:53 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 13:07:53 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Non-start
References: <C3E1BE01.1563F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <053a01c8761e$b036ffb0$0200a8c0@Three>

Classic case of flat battery or bad connections in the cranking circuit, or 
possibly a faulty starter.  Measuring the battery voltage right on the 
battery posts *while this is happening*.  A good battery will show very 
little deviation from 12.5v, which proves it to the connections or starter. 
If the battery voltage drops then it is the battery.  Of course it could be 
a combination of faults.  My V8 starter started (ho ho) doing this and at 
first I thought it was bad connections on the solenoid wire, as cleaning 
this up seemed to fix it.  But only for a while, then it started doing it 
again as the solenoid deteriorated further.  When you *can* get it cranking 
again without the clicking connect the meter between the battery 12v post 
and the solenoid battery cable stud, crank with the coil disconnected, and 
note the volt-drop.  Then connect the meter between the battery ground post 
and the starter body and do the same.  And between the battery posts with 
the link cable attached if you have twin 6v batteries.  Ideally you should 
only see about 0.2 or 0.3v lost in the cables and connections.  If it's 
getting near 1v it is worth investigating further and cleaning connections. 
I have seen 3v lost, it still cranked, but was a pig to start as the coil 
voltage was so low.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Patient is a 66 MGB with 4-synchro trans and late model starter. Symptom 
> is
> (with key in starting position) series of rapid clicks from under the
> bonnet, but no turnover. 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Feb 23 07:15:16 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 08:15:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
References: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <410FD651-823F-4AC9-A549-1813ED63BCA2@gmail.com>

On Feb 22, 2008, at 10:01 PM, Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:

>>>>>> I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I  always  
>>>>>> wonder
> whythey bother buying this car >>>>>(same with the  BMW Z-series  
> cars) if
> theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
>
> I understand what you're saying.  I, too, prefer to drive top down  
> and  I
> tend to scowl at those who seem never to have the top down.  But  
> there is  a
> matter of reality that needs to be considered.  The tops on our  
> British  classics
> are a royal pain in the ass to put up and down.  When my dad was   
> using his
> MGA as a daily driver in the 1960s, the top went up in November and   
> didn't come
> down until April. From April to November the top was always  down.   
> The
> reason my dad's top never went down in the winter or up during  the  
> rest of the
> year was because it was too much trouble to raise and  lower.  And,  
> the reason I
> drive that same car today with the top always  down is...you guessed
> it....because it's too much of a pain to put up...that,  and because  
> I only drive the
> car in fair weather.

The 'Bs top is a pain. When I was in college, during the summers, I  
worked for a moving
company. And living in Kansas, you really never knew when it would  
rain. So the
top went down, every morning for the drive, back up for parking. And  
back down for the
trip home. Up for overnight.

The TR7 that I bought when I moved to California, had a wonderful top.  
Easy up and down.
I bought a full cockpit cover for it, and rarely had the top up from  
March through November.
I remember driving top down on Christmas Eve in '85.
I also remember sprinting out of my apartment when someone mentioned  
it was raining. The
cover was good, but not San Diego February rain good.
>
> That said I almost always drove my 1990 MX5 with the top down.
> Why...because it was more fun that way!  I don't think things will   
> change with the 2008
> MX5, but I do love the way the car looks with the top  up.

Now a days, I see Porsche Boxsters with the top up on a 70-75 degree  
day at dusk.
Why did you buy a convertible if not to take the top down in  
absolutely perfect weather?
Pushing that button and waiting 15 seconds is too hard?

I still drive top down when it hits 45-50 in April or early May. Half  
the cover on, wearing a fleece,
gloves, and a hat. I get to work a little cold, but with a smile.  
50-55 in October is getting too cold
for me though.

>

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
'77 MGB
'99 OBS

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb 23 07:47:25 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 08:47:25 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] battery cut off switch
References: <cab4b95c0802211935i79a63728o780bcef2dfe8895e@mail.gmail.com>
	<04e601c8761c$91c1acd0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <001701c8762b$1bf15050$cb0b0a0a@garage.local>

i put in a battery cut off switch as well.  its really not hard, and very 
helpful when you are working on the car.  but, that's so seldom, right???? 

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Sat Feb 23 08:22:43 2008
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:22:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
References: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080223102243.oqwwirjesks84k84@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

Quoting Wilkmanracing at aol.com:

>>>>>> I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I  always wonder
> whythey bother buying this car >>>>>(same with the  BMW Z-series cars) if
> theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
>
> I understand what you're saying.  I, too, prefer to drive top down and  I
> tend to scowl at those who seem never to have the top down.  But there is  a
> matter of reality that needs to be considered.  The tops on our   
> British  classics
> are a royal pain in the ass to put up and down.

Do you include the B's in British classics? I timed myself...<15  
seconds to lower the top of my 76B (for the few times I drive with it  
up, that is. I always have thought...why have this car if the top is  
up?). That is not a royal p.i.t.a. On the other hand, crawling around  
under my 74 on a cold garage floor is. Besides...I don't fit anymore.

Bill Saidel
BMCSNJ

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Sat Feb 23 09:30:00 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:30:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
Message-ID: <20080223162648.A3B90187642@autox.team.net>

The top on my B was fairly easy up and down  (a folder, not like the erector set on our 66 Sprite) but I can put the Miata top down without getting out of my seat.  Putting it back up is a little more of a stretch, but that just needs a longer stop light to do.  I had a tonneau for the B; seems pointless for my Miata.

Jim 
1957 MGA #311

-----Original Message-----

From:  saidel at camden.rutgers.edu
Subj:  Re: [Mgs] Miata Question
Date:  Sat Feb 23, 2008 10:22 am
Size:  1K
To:  mgs at autox.team.net

Quoting Wilkmanracing at aol.com:

>>>>>> I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I  always wonder
> whythey bother buying this car >>>>>(same with the  BMW Z-series cars) if
> theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
>
> I understand what you're saying.  I, too, prefer to drive top down and  I
> tend to scowl at those who seem never to have the top down.  But there is  a
> matter of reality that needs to be considered.  The tops on our   
> British  classics
> are a royal pain in the ass to put up and down.

Do you include the B's in British classics? I timed myself...<15  
seconds to lower the top of my 76B (for the few times I drive with it  
up, that is. I always have thought...why have this car if the top is  
up?). That is not a royal p.i.t.a. On the other hand, crawling around  
under my 74 on a cold garage floor is. Besides...I don't fit anymore.

Bill Saidel
BMCSNJ
_

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Feb 23 09:45:43 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:45:43 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <20080223102243.oqwwirjesks84k84@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
References: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
	<20080223102243.oqwwirjesks84k84@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <5657748E-9938-4327-B330-B743571E15EA@gmail.com>

On Feb 23, 2008, at 9:22 AM, saidel at camden.rutgers.edu wrote:

> Quoting Wilkmanracing at aol.com:
>
>>>>>>> I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I  always  
>>>>>>> wonder
>> whythey bother buying this car >>>>>(same with the  BMW Z-series  
>> cars) if
>> theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
>>
>> I understand what you're saying.  I, too, prefer to drive top down  
>> and  I
>> tend to scowl at those who seem never to have the top down.  But  
>> there is  a
>> matter of reality that needs to be considered.  The tops on our
>> British  classics
>> are a royal pain in the ass to put up and down.
>
> Do you include the B's in British classics? I timed myself...<15
> seconds to lower the top of my 76B (for the few times I drive with it
> up, that is. I always have thought...why have this car if the top is
> up?). That is not a royal p.i.t.a. On the other hand, crawling around
> under my 74 on a cold garage floor is. Besides...I don't fit anymore.
>
> Bill Saidel


Yeah, I do. In comparison to an MGA or TC/TD/TF, the MGB top is a  
breeze. But
compare it to a TR7, Fiat Spider, Alfa Spider, Miata, Z3, Z4, TT,  
etc., it's a pain.

The first gen Miata, is zip out the rear window, flip two levers and  
lower. It can be done
sitting down. The window can be futzy, but it can be done. Try that in  
the B and your
quarter windows will be cracked in a season.



Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
'77 MGB
'99 OBS

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Feb 23 10:00:15 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:00:15 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
Message-ID: <cc4.28e92c18.34f1ab1f@aol.com>

Depends on which kind you have.  I have the top that stows in the  boot, and 
it is not better than the MGA top!
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 23/02/2008 8:46:31 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
ptrmgb at gmail.com writes:

Yeah, I  do. In comparison to an MGA or TC/TD/TF, the MGB top is a  
breeze.  But
compare it to a TR7, Fiat Spider, Alfa Spider, Miata, Z3, Z4, TT,   
etc., it's a pain.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Feb 23 10:28:31 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:28:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
References: <c39.264bd0f5.34f06d5b@aol.com><028801c87580$9e440260$6401a8c0@Larry><1203707664.47bf1f10ed542@webmail.napanet.net><187101c87585$036797c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<E40A9FF3-5E40-41DA-94DC-60FC8446D729@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <259101c87641$82e581d0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<May as well get the gun rack too.>>

Texans WOULD go for that, Paul!!!<G>

Got one in your "future" products list, Kelvin???

<VBG>

From rareisse at postoffice.worldnet.att.net  Sat Feb 23 13:46:59 2008
From: rareisse at postoffice.worldnet.att.net (Robert Alan Reisse)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:46:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition in the muffler
In-Reply-To: <47B8E65D.5000803@bradakis.com>
References: <47B8E65D.5000803@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20080223204723.2FA2D187642@autox.team.net>

Hi,

I have a MGC that I have been working on replacing the bushings in 
the front end.  So the car has sat for awhile with out running.  I 
got it running last weekend and it ran poorly without ever settling 
down when warm to an idle, when the rpms went below about 1500 I 
started to get a lot of popping from the exhaust system.

What could be causing that.

Thanks.

Bob Reisse

From derek at vandivere.net  Sat Feb 23 14:13:07 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 22:13:07 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
References: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <50149.83.79.133.138.1203801187.squirrel@vandivere.net>

One of the nicest feelings when I go back to the states and steal, I mean
borrow, my Dad's Miata: sitting in the driver's seat, reaching back with
one arm, pulling the top up and clipping it down in about ten seconds.

And then putting it back down, of course...but to know you can put the top
up so quickly if you want to is sure nice.

dersk, 78B

>The tops on our British
> classics
> are a royal pain in the ass to put up and down.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Feb 23 15:22:53 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 16:22:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
References: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
	<50149.83.79.133.138.1203801187.squirrel@vandivere.net>
Message-ID: <0ce101c8766a$a2532cb0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Shoot, Derek....

<<I mean borrow, my Dad's Miata: sitting in the driver's seat, reaching back
with
one arm, pulling the top up and clipping it down in about ten seconds.>>

That's the SAME as what I do in my Healey!!!!!<G>

Ed

From jello at ida.net  Sat Feb 23 15:48:23 2008
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:48:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Convertible Top operation - Was  Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <cc4.28e92c18.34f1ab1f@aol.com>
References: <cc4.28e92c18.34f1ab1f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47C0A2B7.1040209@ida.net>

Ok, this is not a miata list, so I changed the topic

I too have the stow away top and frame.  I prefer it over the folding 
frame (when I bought the car, I had neither - so I had to decide which 
to get).  Yes it does take longer.  It also allows a little space behind 
the seats that is accessible and can be used to stor things you might 
need - food, beverages, speakers, music........or more likely oil, brake 
fluid, coolant. multimeter.

Phil Bates
WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
> Depends on which kind you have.  I have the top that stows in the  boot, and 
> it is not better than the MGA top!
>  
> Bill
>  
> In a message dated 23/02/2008 8:46:31 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
> ptrmgb at gmail.com writes:
>
> Yeah, I  do. In comparison to an MGA or TC/TD/TF, the MGB top is a  
> breeze.  But
> compare it to a TR7, Fiat Spider, Alfa Spider, Miata, Z3, Z4, TT,   
> etc., it's a pain.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as jello at ida.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dwillner at ptd.net  Sat Feb 23 18:31:28 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 20:31:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Interior door panel source
Message-ID: <000801c87684$fa3ef610$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

Is there a company that will sell only part of the panel kits, I only need to
replace the slightly "warping" interior door panels.  All I seem to find are
the entire kit, appreciate the help, thanks.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
70 MGB BRG
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Feb 23 21:20:30 2008
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 22:20:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Ignition in the muffler
In-Reply-To: <20080223204723.2FA2D187642@autox.team.net>
References: <47B8E65D.5000803@bradakis.com>
	<20080223204723.2FA2D187642@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080224042152.5DACE187672@autox.team.net>

At 03:46 PM 2/23/2008 -0500, Robert Alan Reisse wrote:
>....
>I have a MGC .... has sat for awhile with out running.  .... it ran 
>poorly without ever settling down when warm to an idle, when the 
>rpms went below about 1500 I started to get a lot of popping from 
>the exhaust system.
>
>What could be causing that.

Too much fuel, not burning in the cylinders, ending up in the 
exhaust, being mixed with air from the air injection pump.  Look for 
a stuck choke on one of the SU carbs.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Feb 24 04:41:05 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 22:11:05 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <50149.83.79.133.138.1203801187.squirrel@vandivere.net>
References: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com>
	<50149.83.79.133.138.1203801187.squirrel@vandivere.net>
Message-ID: <A2AF2D68-3A3E-460A-8232-14B5AF8CD68C@erickson.on.net>

On 24/02/2008, at 7:43 AM, derek at vandivere.net wrote:

> One of the nicest feelings when I go back to the states and steal,  
> I mean
> borrow, my Dad's Miata: sitting in the driver's seat, reaching back  
> with
> one arm, pulling the top up and clipping it down in about ten seconds.
>
> And then putting it back down, of course...but to know you can put  
> the top
> up so quickly if you want to is sure nice.
>
>

That is the same as my 'B.   Throw it down at the lights, then if it  
rains, reach back, pull it over my head and snap it down.

The thought of the "stow-away" top horrified me - but many seem to  
exist quiet happily with one.



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Feb 24 07:56:33 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:56:33 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
References: <c74.26f6187c.34f0f48a@aol.com><20080223102243.oqwwirjesks84k84@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>
	<5657748E-9938-4327-B330-B743571E15EA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ca01c876f6$9eb23290$0200a8c0@Three>

Both a friend and I could do that on our MGBs - lower and raise the hood 
from the seat, and without undoing the rear fastenings or damaging anything. 
But neither went down far enough to allow a tonneau cover to be used as a 
hood cover and be fastened to the heel-board pegs.  I investigated mine and 
found that by tweaking a couple of the struts on the hood frame it would 
then drop all the way into the tonneau space and allow the cover to be 
fastened, but not without removing the rear fastenings of the hood or it 
*would* damage the material, and in a lot less than a season.  I reckon that 
fitting a couple of struts to the frame to sit on the tops of the wheel 
arches would allow you to lower it from the seat without unfastening the 
rear edge for a quick raise and lower.  And if you wanted to then getting 
out, unfastening it and swinging the struts out of the way would allow it to 
sit right down to allow fitting the cover.  But I've never bothered.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... It can be done
> sitting down. The window can be futzy, but it can be done. Try that in
> the B and your
> quarter windows will be cracked in a season.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Feb 24 08:24:00 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:24:00 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Interior door panel source
References: <000801c87684$fa3ef610$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <012701c876fa$d4b14cb0$0200a8c0@Three>

Seemingly several UK suppliers do, including Moss UK, but not Moss US for 
some reason.  35 Quid plus shipping 
http://www.mgbhive.co.uk/trim_seatcovers_carpets.html for a pair has got to 
be a better option than $400 for a kit!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Is there a company that will sell only part of the panel kits, I only need 
> to
> replace the slightly "warping" interior door panels.  All I seem to find 
> are
> the entire kit, appreciate the help, thanks.

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sun Feb 24 12:08:23 2008
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971mgb at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:08:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] spark plug 2 and 3 has black sooth
Message-ID: <20080224140823.0KSR3.32667.imail@eastrmwml17.mgt.cox.net>

ok folks I'm still messing around with my HS4 carbs., I've adjusted the carbs to where I'm almost contend with the mixture, however my issue is that not all my spark plugs have that nice grayish color to them, if I'm looking at number 1 spark plug (nearest the radiator) and count toward the rear of the engine then number 4 would be near the heater box, having said that number one spark plug then is a nice gray and number 4 near the heater box is nice and gray that leaves number 2 and number 3 having black sooth on the them (bottom of spark plug). Do I need to lean out the carb nearest the front (near radiator) or the rear carb. nearsest the heater box?

Thank you all for your input.

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun Feb 24 12:16:06 2008
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:16:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Interior door panel source
References: <mailman.9.1203879601.23202.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001b01c87719$bc2331d0$ae10c263@ejrussell>

Moss does list door panels (vs an 'interior panel set').
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29106#top
scroll down to the bottom of the list

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 

> Is there a company that will sell only part of the panel kits, I 
> only need to
> replace the slightly "warping" interior door panels.  All I seem to 
> find are
> the entire kit, appreciate the help, thanks.
>
> Dave Willner

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 24 12:30:58 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 13:30:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] spark plug 2 and 3 has black sooth
References: <20080224140823.0KSR3.32667.imail@eastrmwml17.mgt.cox.net>
Message-ID: <007c01c8771b$c9046570$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <1971mgb at cox.net>
To: "MG list" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 1:08 PM
Subject: [Mgs] spark plug 2 and 3 has black sooth


ok folks I'm still messing around with my HS4 carbs., I've adjusted the 
carbs to where I'm almost contend with the mixture, however my issue is that 
not all my spark plugs have that nice grayish color to them, if I'm looking 
at number 1 spark plug (nearest the radiator) and count toward the rear of 
the engine then number 4 would be near the heater box, having said that 
number one spark plug then is a nice gray and number 4 near the heater box 
is nice and gray that leaves number 2 and number 3 having black sooth on the 
them (bottom of spark plug). Do I need to lean out the carb nearest the 
front (near radiator) or the rear carb. nearsest the heater box?

Thank you all for your input.
_______________________________________________

I wouldn't lean out either carb.  They, obviously, are tuned correctly for 
the other cylinders they are feeding.  You don't want to lean them out too 
much and burn them up.

Did you do a compression check on the cylinders?  Look, also, to the 
ignition on those two cylinders.  Pull the plugs out and hold them 1/4 inch 
from the head.  Do you get a strong spark?  If not, work back from there.

Larry Daniels

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 24 18:38:51 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 17:38:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
Message-ID: <994268.4368.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

But Bill, I wasn't referring to British cars - it's the Miata drivers that seem to keep theirs up. Umm, their tops.
 
Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver -  What's that smoke? 
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....  
'04 Audi A4 1.8T q 
MT-6NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

----- Original Message ----
From: "Wilkmanracing at aol.com" <Wilkmanracing at aol.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 11:01:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Miata Question

>>>>>I suspect you're not part of that group, Steve, but I  always wonder 
whythey bother buying this car >>>>>(same with the  BMW Z-series cars) if 
theydon't really enjoy the wind in their hair!
 
I understand what you're saying.  I, too, prefer to drive top down and  I 
tend to scowl at those who seem never to have the top down.  But there is  a 
matter of reality that needs to be considered.  The tops on our British  classics 
are a royal pain in the ass to put up and down.  When my dad was  using his 
MGA as a daily driver in the 1960s, the top went up in November and  didn't come 
down until April. From April to November the top was always  down.  The 
reason my dad's top never went down in the winter or up during  the rest of the 
year was because it was too much trouble to raise and  lower.  And, the reason I 
drive that same car today with the top always  down is...you guessed 
it....because it's too much of a pain to put up...that,  and because I only drive the 
car in fair weather.
 
That said I almost always drove my 1990 MX5 with the top down.   
Why...because it was more fun that way!  I don't think things will  change with the 2008 
MX5, but I do love the way the car looks with the top  up.
 
Bill Wilkman 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

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From RampantNM at aol.com  Sun Feb 24 18:54:10 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 20:54:10 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Rotor Issues
Message-ID: <cb1.260e44b4.34f379c2@aol.com>

Just to let you all know there are apparently still some of the bad rotors  
out there.  I bought a new one from a very reputable supplier recently and  
last Friday the brass contact came un-rivited from the rotor and left me on the  
side of the road.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sun Feb 24 19:05:29 2008
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:05:29 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Rotor Issues
References: <cb1.260e44b4.34f379c2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001101c87752$e5ec9590$6401a8c0@XPS400>

Please identify the source of the bad rotor so we can avoid the same 
problem.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 5:54 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Rotor Issues


> Just to let you all know there are apparently still some of the bad rotors
> out there.  I bought a new one from a very reputable supplier recently and
> last Friday the brass contact came un-rivited from the rotor and left me 
> on the
> side of the road.
>
> Regards,

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 24 19:24:04 2008
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:24:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Motor Vibration
Message-ID: <954748.14030.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Good Evening Listers;
   
  I would like to elicit some opinions of the list on something I've observed for some time....motor vibration on my '74 MGB-GT.
   
  While at idle, the motor vibrates quite a bit...it just about "shakes."  I have no idea as to the source of this.  The motor has less than 10K on it (rebuilt about 5 years ago) and new motor mounts were installed when the rebuild was done.  
   
  Can anyone venture a guess what the cause is?  I would imagine there is an inbalance somewhere....???
   
  Thanks for the help,
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 24 19:26:54 2008
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:26:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] SU HS6 Carbs
Message-ID: <461966.28989.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello Again Listers;
   
  Does anyone on the list have experience with the SU HS6 carbs?  Just looking for impressions...performance enhancement, ease of tuning, etc.
   
  Thanks for your help,
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Sun Feb 24 20:10:00 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 22:10:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SU HS6 Carbs
Message-ID: <20080225030722.1BB22187645@autox.team.net>

I like the simplicity of SU carbs, so much so that I put new HS6s on my TR 6.  These were new and don't seem to be as well made as the originals.  If you're talking about HS6s on a stock MGB, I would guess they would give little advantage.  The HS4s flow well with stock engines, and the same basic size (H4) on my MGA 1500 race engine with better cam and header has proven capable up to  6000 rpm.  I don't have experience with hotter MGB engines.

Jim 
1957 MGA #311

-----Original Message-----

From:  Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>
Subj:  [Mgs] SU HS6 Carbs
Date:  Sun Feb 24, 2008 9:26 pm
Size:  466 bytes
To:  mgs at autox.team.net

Hello Again Listers;
   
  Does anyone on the list have experience with the SU HS6 carbs?  Just looking for impressions...performance enhancement, ease of tuning, etc.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 24 21:44:52 2008
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 21:44:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Miata Question
In-Reply-To: <994268.4368.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <994268.4368.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47C247C4.6000508@bradakis.com>

Ironic.  mgs at autox.,team.net has seen more Miata discussion
than miatas at autox.team.net

mjb.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Feb 25 02:13:37 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:13:37 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] spark plug 2 and 3 has black sooth
References: <20080224140823.0KSR3.32667.imail@eastrmwml17.mgt.cox.net>
Message-ID: <009501c8778f$1a409d50$0200a8c0@Three>

As well as checking for spark check you don't have any vacuum leaks on the 
outers, although two equal leaks seems unlikely.  The inners and the outers 
*do* run slightly different, but shouldn't be that much.  It is the tip of 
the insulator and the electrodes you should be looking at BTW, not the 
threaded outer portion of the plug.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ok folks I'm still messing around with my HS4 carbs., I've adjusted the 
> carbs to where I'm almost contend with the mixture, however my issue is 
> that not all my spark plugs have that nice grayish color to them, if I'm 
> looking at number 1 spark plug (nearest the radiator) and count toward the 
> rear of the engine then number 4 would be near the heater box, having said 
> that number one spark plug then is a nice gray and number 4 near the 
> heater box is nice and gray that leaves number 2 and number 3 having black 
> sooth on the them (bottom of spark plug). Do I need to lean out the carb 
> nearest the front (near radiator) or the rear carb. nearsest the heater 
> box?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Feb 25 02:20:43 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:20:43 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Motor Vibration
References: <954748.14030.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00af01c87791$344e2940$0200a8c0@Three>

What idle rpm to you have?  I found my UK 73 was always lumpy at the book 
figure even on leaded petrol, which got worse on unleaded.  Turning it up 
got a smoother idle but then I suffered from severe runon.  Eventually I 
fitted an anti-runon valve and now idle it at about 900 instead of the 
recommended 750-800.

Also is it firing smoothly on all cylinders?  If not this can be clearly 
heard at the exhaust as either a splashy (weak), rhythmic (rich), or 
intermittent (ignition or fuel problems) beat.  has it been properly set up 
for ignition and mixture?

I'd expect an imbalance to produce harmonic periods of vibration at various 
points in the rev range, and not just be at idle.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>  While at idle, the motor vibrates quite a bit...it just about "shakes." 

From mlambdin at towson.edu  Mon Feb 25 05:14:38 2008
From: mlambdin at towson.edu (Lambdin, Mike)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 07:14:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] miata question
In-Reply-To: <187101c87585$036797c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <D1173DA76E2AFD498511ACA48558547D024CE48C@krypton.towson.edu>

An easier solution would be to install the Miata air conditioning unit
along with the engine.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+mlambdin=towson.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+mlambdin=towson.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
shop at justbrits.com
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 1:59 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] miata question

<<An MGA coupe is a sauna on wheels in hot weather!  The engine heat and
lack of ventilation tend to cook the occupants of the car.>>

Just need to engineer a "re-moveable" rear window!!!<G>

Get right on that, Kelvin?????    LOL

Anon
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From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 25 06:40:24 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 05:40:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Motor Vibration
Message-ID: <495328.32413.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

My '76 had quite a bit of 'rock' at idle. When I removed the engine, I noticed that the rubber for the engine mounts was pretty well trashed - pretty broken-down. May be a cause of your vibration as well.
 
Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver -  What's that smoke? 
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....  
'04 Audi A4 1.8T q 
MT-6NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

----- Original Message ----
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:24:04 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Motor Vibration

Good Evening Listers;
   
  I would like to elicit some opinions of the list on something I've observed for some time....motor vibration on my '74 MGB-GT.
   
  While at idle, the motor vibrates quite a bit...it just about "shakes."  I have no idea as to the source of this.  The motor has less than 10K on it (rebuilt about 5 years ago) and new motor mounts were installed when the rebuild was done.  
   
  Can anyone venture a guess what the cause is?  I would imagine there is an inbalance somewhere....???
   
  Thanks for the help,
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From twobees at sprynet.com  Mon Feb 25 07:31:40 2008
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:31:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] spark plug 2 and 3 has black sooth
Message-ID: <001901c877bb$22fb1890$4f451645@normoffice>

Go to: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html  The images will be
SOME help in reading your plugs.  They aren't as hi-res as I would like to
see.
 
I had the same problem with one of my MGBs.  Solved it by simply going to
hotter plugs on # 2 & 3.

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Feb 25 09:18:34 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 11:18:34 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Rotor Issues
Message-ID: <bfa.ae1f2af.34f4445a@aol.com>

May I just say it came in a newly refurbished distributor from a fellow  that 
specializes in this.  Hey, anyone can get a bad batch.  Check the  archives 
for my email about getting the new distributor.  I've emailed the  supplier and 
perhaps he will send a reply to the lists.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Feb 25 10:53:42 2008
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:53:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel pump works but now...
Message-ID: <47C300A6.407@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
Swapped out the new pump for the rebuilt one and got clicking and a 
running car. Seems it was a combination of oxidized points and stuck 
diaphragm. Well, it ran long enough until I shut it down after backing 
out of garage and saw I was leaving an antifreeze trail. 
Boy, what fun. 
Lesson here is  DNLYCFLPOT (Do Not Leave Your Car Unused For Long 
Periods Of Time).
Put the TD on top of lift for a change and pushed the MGA under it. 
Didn't see what was leaking so will refill with water,  start her up for 
a short time to see where the flow emanates from. Know I put a 180  
thermostat in, in 1992! Will replace with 160 now that I am in Florida. 
Hope it's not the water pump.
Will let you know what I find and thanks for all the help with the fuel 
pump recommendations,
Dave (Black Cloud) Houser

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Mon Feb 25 14:19:37 2008
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:19:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Rotor Issues
In-Reply-To: <bfa.ae1f2af.34f4445a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8B24@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>

There are more than a few of those bad rotors running around.  I had a
rotor go south on me in my TR250 last year -- same issue with the rivit
coming loose.  I always carry a spare or two in the glove box, just in
case.


Bill S.
2005 Lotus Elise
1968 Triumph TR-250
1968 MGC Tourer
1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III
1965 Sunbeam Tiger
1959 Austin Healey 3000
www.TR-250.com

Looking for a GT6+ or early TR6!

Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows...



NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential
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received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit,
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imposed under the Internal Revenue Code.

Thank you.

From bmcspares at aol.com  Tue Feb 26 11:34:00 2008
From: bmcspares at aol.com (British Motor Classics, Ltd.)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:34:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A/C units for sale
In-Reply-To: <00af01c87791$344e2940$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <954748.14030.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<00af01c87791$344e2940$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <8CA46BD49E9D19E-AF8-14D9@webmail-ne16.sysops.aol.com>

I have several A/C interior units for sale. Contact me off list if interested.











Jon Nyhus  bmcspares at aol.com

From RampantNM at aol.com  Tue Feb 26 13:39:58 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 15:39:58 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Rotor Issues
Message-ID: <cf3.293ba23f.34f5d31e@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/25/2008 2:31:59 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
wsteinman at pogolaw.com writes:

same  issue with the rivit
coming loose.  I always carry a spare or two in  the glove box, just in
case.







I will now, as soon as I get some.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Feb 26 21:46:18 2008
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 23:46:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] On line registration MG 2008
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV1181A416F30790EBC565B1DB1A0@phx.gbl>

Hey Listers,
If you were planning to attend MG 2008, the on line registration form is now
active with credit card capability. It has been a difficult road with this
part of the registration because we wanted it to be totally secure and didn't
want to bring it on line until it was safe. If you have any problems let me
know.
site is www.mg2008.com<http://www.mg2008.com/>
FYI
The bus tour already has 28 people signed up so it looks like a go. We need 34
to make it happen. The early mail in registrations have been very encouraging.
We are looking forward to seeing many of you June 25th-29th in Valley Forge,
PA
Safety Fast
Jim Schulte
MG 2008 Co-Coordinator

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Feb 26 21:59:51 2008
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 23:59:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] On line registration MG 2008
References: <BAY116-DAV1181A416F30790EBC565B1DB1A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV14786575D0F3C00302AB45DB1A0@phx.gbl>

www.MG2008.com<http://www.mg2008.com/>
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: James Schulte<mailto:schultejim at msn.com>
  To: Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 11:46 PM
  Subject: [Mgs] On line registration MG 2008


  Hey Listers,
  If you were planning to attend MG 2008, the on line registration form is
now
  active with credit card capability. It has been a difficult road with this
  part of the registration because we wanted it to be totally secure and
didn't
  want to bring it on line until it was safe. If you have any problems let me
  know.
  site is
www.mg2008.com<http://www.mg2008.com/<http://www.mg2008.com%3chttp//www.mg200
8.com/>>
  FYI
  The bus tour already has 28 people signed up so it looks like a go. We need
34
  to make it happen. The early mail in registrations have been very
encouraging.
  We are looking forward to seeing many of you June 25th-29th in Valley
Forge,
  PA
  Safety Fast
  Jim Schulte
  MG 2008 Co-Coordinator
  _______________________________________________

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Feb 26 22:03:21 2008
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 00:03:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] On line registration MG 2008
References: <BAY116-DAV1181A416F30790EBC565B1DB1A0@phx.gbl>
	<BAY116-DAV14786575D0F3C00302AB45DB1A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV64E3D547B91DC5D2CA821DB1A0@phx.gbl>

I don't understand what's going on? I'm trying to put up our site and
something keeps adding more then what I typed.
wwwdotMG2008dotcom
fill in . for the word dot (-:
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: James Schulte<mailto:schultejim at msn.com>
  To: Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 11:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] On line registration MG 2008


  www.MG2008.com<http://www.mg2008.com/<http://www.mg2008.com%3chttp//www.mg2
008.com/>>
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: James Schulte<mailto:schultejim at msn.com<mailto:schultejim at msn.com>>
    To:
Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net%3Cmail
to:Mgs at autox.team.net>>
    Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 11:46 PM
    Subject: [Mgs] On line registration MG 2008


    Hey Listers,
    If you were planning to attend MG 2008, the on line registration form is
  now
    active with credit card capability. It has been a difficult road with
this
    part of the registration because we wanted it to be totally secure and
  didn't
    want to bring it on line until it was safe. If you have any problems let
me
    know.
    site is
  www.mg2008.com<http://www.mg2008.com/<http://www.mg2008.com%3chttp//www.mg2
00<http://www.mg2008.com%3chttp//www.mg2008.com/%3Chttp://www.mg2008.com%3cht
tp//www.mg200>
  8.com/>>
    FYI
    The bus tour already has 28 people signed up so it looks like a go. We
need
  34
    to make it happen. The early mail in registrations have been very
  encouraging.
    We are looking forward to seeing many of you June 25th-29th in Valley
  Forge,
    PA
    Safety Fast
    Jim Schulte
    MG 2008 Co-Coordinator

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Feb 27 12:28:36 2008
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 13:28:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Webasto at work
Message-ID: <45B5FC98-09EA-498E-8DC5-07B9728A5980@gmail.com>

http://tinyurl.com/yv4cnx

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 27 13:30:03 2008
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 12:30:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Webasto at work
Message-ID: <324371.99443.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Interesting that they are touting a new type of roof, and they display the car with the top down!!!
 
Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver -  What's that smoke? 
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....  
'04 Audi A4 1.8T q 
MT-6NAMGBR #5-2328 
http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: MGs List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 2:28:36 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Webasto at work

http://tinyurl.com/yv4cnx
You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From dwillner at ptd.net  Thu Feb 28 07:07:45 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:07:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
Message-ID: <000801c87a13$4b797f00$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

I want to remove the seats this weekend to polish the tracks and to touch up
the fames, both starting to look their age a little.  Manual says push seat
forward, remove two bolts, push seat back, remove two bolts....is this it, 4
bolts?  I assume the tracks are bolted to the seats in the middle somewhere as
well?  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Thu Feb 28 07:17:13 2008
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:17:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
In-Reply-To: <000801c87a13$4b797f00$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <000801c87a13$4b797f00$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460802280617x532d932ftd28d471c9a142c18@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, that's all it takes to get the seats out of the car. (Out of most
cars for that matter)

- Steve

On 2/28/08, Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote:
> I want to remove the seats this weekend to polish the tracks and to touch up
>  the fames, both starting to look their age a little.  Manual says push seat
>  forward, remove two bolts, push seat back, remove two bolts....is this it, 4
>  bolts?  I assume the tracks are bolted to the seats in the middle somewhere as
>  well?  Thanks
>
>  Dave Willner
>  Stroudsburg, PA
>  59 TR3A Apple Green
>  70 MGB BRG
>  70 BSA 441 Victor Special
>  _______________________________________________
>  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>  You are subscribed as temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
>
>  Mgs at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>  http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Feb 28 07:21:26 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 14:21:26 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
References: <000801c87a13$4b797f00$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <021801c87a15$d9555810$0200a8c0@Three>

Funnily enough it is as the book says i.e. just 4 bolts.  Personally I push
the seat *back* first and remove the front bolts.  These need a spanner as
they are under the seat frame.  If you remove those first, then push the seat
forward, the fact that the front is now unfastened can allow the seat to move
a bit further forward (the side of the seat hits the tunnel on 4-synch models)
to allow you to get a socket and extension on the back bolts.  The rear two
are exposed under the floor.  The bad news is these get all the road muck and
salt and corrode, the good news is you can get releasing fluid on them.  The
fronts are within the cross-member, the bad news is that these can also
corrode, there is no good news.  If you shear them you can drill and tap as
normal, but if you strip the bolt thread it is a pain to replace them.  If you
strip the rears you can always use a longer bolt and extra nut for quickness.

When lifting out the seat make sure the runners don't fall off just over your
paintwork, there is only a lip holding them on, likewise when replacing.

There should be wooden slats under the metal runners, with four large metal
spacers in holes the bolts go through.  These spacers sit directly on the
metal floor i.e. inside large holes in the carpet as well.  These often rot
and crumble away.  Even though the runners sit on the spacers at the ends,
they rest on the slats in the middle which reduces warping under load (!) to
allow you to slide it while seated.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  I want to remove the seats this weekend to polish the tracks and to touch
up
  the fames, both starting to look their age a little.  Manual says push seat
  forward, remove two bolts, push seat back, remove two bolts....is this it,
4
  bolts?  I assume the tracks are bolted to the seats in the middle somewhere
as
  well?

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Feb 28 07:25:40 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:25:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
Message-ID: <20080228.092541.3584.6.MGBOB@juno.com>

  It's just the four bolts that hold the track to the floor.   They
fasten into captive or welded nuts.  If you have time, give these bolts a
dose of penetrant oil as they are prone to rusting and breaking free the
captive nuts.
Bob
 
On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:07:45 -0500 "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
writes:
> I want to remove the seats this weekend to polish the tracks and to 
> touch up
> the fames, both starting to look their age a little.  Manual says 
> push seat
> forward, remove two bolts, push seat back, remove two bolts....is 
> this it, 4
> bolts?  I assume the tracks are bolted to the seats in the middle 
> somewhere as
> well?  Thanks
> 
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 28 08:56:52 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:56:52 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] BMC Factory Films - The British Motor Car (1963)
Message-ID: <038b01c87a22$8a11acb0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Some You Tube BMC short films.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pHMDEim_KE&NR=1

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Thu Feb 28 09:26:30 2008
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:26:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content
Message-ID: <8527F622-9687-458F-BA24-18050626B338@trebelhorn.com>

I've been to two grands prix in my life -- 1975 at Watkins Glen, and  
1983 in Detroit.  The former, I was literally a babe in arms.  The  
second, our family was in Detroit on vacation and stayed at the hotel  
ponchatrain -- we watched the race out our hotel window.  Which is to  
say that I've never bought a ticket for a grand prix.

Through no particular fault of our own, my wife and I are going to be  
in southern France and/or northern Italy at the end of May.  My wife  
has expressed some interest in seeing the monaco grand prix.  It  
looks like tickets -- for race day especially --  start at an arm & a  
leg, and go up from there.    I looked at Monza for comparison and  
see 3-day passes starting at around $100; that won't get you in to  
Monaco for thursday practice!

Can anyone offer advice?  Other than the obvious, of course, which is  
"Avoid that money-grubbing %^#$% Ecclestone," sound though that  
advice may be.

Thanks,
Matt

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Feb 28 11:04:56 2008
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 19:04:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content
References: <8527F622-9687-458F-BA24-18050626B338@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <004301c87a34$6d01c620$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Grand Prix always has been extremely expensive to go to.
I've visited the Ductch Grand Prix (Zandvoort) several times in the sixties 
/ seventies with my brothers.
Luckily the tickets were paid by my parents.
In the eighties I went to the Belgian Grand Prix (Spa / Francorchamps) and 
saw the tickets were extremely expensive as well overthere - the last times 
we went sponsored by our company Data General, who was main sponsor of 
Tyrrell at these days.
It was fun to see both Tyrrell cars wreck eachother just in front of our 
noses!

Monaco by the way is one of the most expensive places in Europe anyway.
More value for money will be the local GP racing tracks in France, Germany, 
Belgium etc.
As these tracks are not street races, but on closed racing circuits, there 
arer more variants in ticket prices as well.
Belgium and germany has tracks, where one can stroll around the track over 
the hills and have a nice view from the hill tops.

I have stopped visited these events, as eastern Belgium is quite far from 
home to travel for one day and back.
Lodging nearby is expensive as well, though camping is to do at reasonable 
prices.
Local events are more nice to visit, as one can visit the Pits and come 
closer to the cars and even speak with the drivers.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT ex-Calif



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matt Trebelhorn" <matt.lists at trebelhorn.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 5:26 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content


> I've been to two grands prix in my life -- 1975 at Watkins Glen, and
> 1983 in Detroit.  The former, I was literally a babe in arms.  The
> second, our family was in Detroit on vacation and stayed at the hotel
> ponchatrain -- we watched the race out our hotel window.  Which is to
> say that I've never bought a ticket for a grand prix.
>
> Through no particular fault of our own, my wife and I are going to be
> in southern France and/or northern Italy at the end of May.  My wife
> has expressed some interest in seeing the monaco grand prix.  It
> looks like tickets -- for race day especially --  start at an arm & a
> leg, and go up from there.    I looked at Monza for comparison and
> see 3-day passes starting at around $100; that won't get you in to
> Monaco for thursday practice!
>
> Can anyone offer advice?  Other than the obvious, of course, which is
> "Avoid that money-grubbing %^#$% Ecclestone," sound though that
> advice may be.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt 

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Feb 28 13:19:18 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:19:18 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Peter to the Rescue
Message-ID: <d02.2aec8b15.34f87146@aol.com>

Many thanks Peter.  I got the rotor and points sets this morning and  I'm on 
the road again.  Actully took a little longer than anticipated  because after 
installing said rotor and points, still no joy!  Pulled the  dizzy out for a 
closer look and the brass bit that had come loose on the old  rotor had shorted 
out the braided wire in the dizzy and burnt it in two.   New wire and 
everything is fine now.
 
Thanks again, and send me the Italian rotors for back up when they come  in.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Feb 28 13:25:10 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:25:10 EST
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
Message-ID: <d38.217488d9.34f872a6@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/28/2008 7:08:30 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
dwillner at ptd.net writes:

Manual  says push seat
forward, remove two bolts, push seat back, remove two  bolts....is this it, 4
bolts?  I assume the tracks are bolted to the  seats in the middle somewhere 
as
well?   Thanks




The manual is correct.  The rear two bolts are a bit difficult to  reach, but 
there are only four.  Careful when you lift the seat out as the  tracks may 
just fall off, as well as the spacers, and the aluminum washers in  the spacers 
that the bolts go through.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 28 15:49:23 2008
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 16:49:23 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
References: <d38.217488d9.34f872a6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <03ca01c87a5c$2a610380$6401a8c0@Larry>

The manual is correct.  The rear two bolts are a bit difficult to  reach, 
but
there are only four.  Careful when you lift the seat out as the  tracks may
just fall off, as well as the spacers, and the aluminum washers in  the 
spacers
that the bolts go through.

Regards,

Robert B. Houston

================================

Is there any reason the spacers need to be made out of wood?  Could an 
appropriately sized AL bar stock work just as well?

It seems foolish to keep on replacing rotted wood spacers.



Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Feb 28 18:32:45 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 20:32:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
Message-ID: <47C760BD.3020609@snet.net>

I understand that the heads used on MGA 1500 and 1600 engines are the 
same.  Is there a difference in the head used on a 1959 Manette?  Also, 
can an MGB head be used on a 1500 or 1600 engine as a bolt-on option?

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Feb 28 18:42:02 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 20:42:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
Message-ID: <47C762EA.9050902@snet.net>

I understand that the heads used on MGA 1500 and 1600 engines are the
same.  Is there a difference in the head used on a 1959 Magnette?  Also,
can an MGB head be used on a 1500 or 1600 engine as a bolt-on option?
(Fixed my spelling error.)

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Feb 28 19:30:40 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 21:30:40 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
Message-ID: <c84.24762b78.34f8c850@aol.com>

1500/1600 are small valve small combustion chamber heads.  1622/1800  are 
larger valve and chamber. They can be used on the smaller displacement  engines 
but require higher compression pistons or you'll end up with very low  
compression.
 
Bill

 
In a message dated 28/02/2008 5:41:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
james.f.juhas at snet.net writes:

I  understand that the heads used on MGA 1500 and 1600 engines are  the
same.  Is there a difference in the head used on a 1959  Magnette?  Also,
can an MGB head be used on a 1500 or 1600 engine as a  bolt-on option?

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Feb 28 20:27:38 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:27:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
In-Reply-To: <c84.24762b78.34f8c850@aol.com>
References: <c84.24762b78.34f8c850@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47C77BAA.8060507@snet.net>

The only pistons I have seen are flat or dished.  Are there domed 
pistons available?  I don't expect there were any domed stock ones.

Jim

WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
> 1500/1600 are small valve small combustion chamber heads.  1622/1800 
> are larger valve and chamber. They can be used on the smaller 
> displacement engines but require higher compression pistons or you'll 
> end up with very low compression.
>  
> Bill
>  
> In a message dated 28/02/2008 5:41:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
> james.f.juhas at snet.net writes:
>
>     I understand that the heads used on MGA 1500 and 1600 engines are the
>     same.  Is there a difference in the head used on a 1959 Magnette? 
>     Also,
>     can an MGB head be used on a 1500 or 1600 engine as a bolt-on option?

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Feb 28 20:57:37 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:57:37 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
Message-ID: <d62.146b619b.34f8dcb1@aol.com>

In fact there were factory pistons with a slight dome in the competition  
parts list, but I'm not sure why you are asking about domed pistons. Why would  
you want them?
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 28/02/2008 7:27:04 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
james.f.juhas at snet.net writes:

The only  pistons I have seen are flat or dished.  Are there domed 
pistons  available?  I don't expect there were any domed stock  ones.

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Feb 28 21:12:47 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 23:12:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
In-Reply-To: <d62.146b619b.34f8dcb1@aol.com>
References: <d62.146b619b.34f8dcb1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47C7863F.4040502@snet.net>

I vintage race my 1957 MGA.  A little more compression might be nice, 
and permissible as long as it's period correct.

But mostly, assembling a back up engine with what I have available is my 
main goal, and I don't want to give up any power relative to my current 
engine.

Jim

WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
> In fact there were factory pistons with a slight dome in the 
> competition parts list, but I'm not sure why you are asking about 
> domed pistons. Why would you want them?
>  
> Bill
>  
> In a message dated 28/02/2008 7:27:04 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
> james.f.juhas at snet.net writes:
>
>     The only pistons I have seen are flat or dished.  Are there domed
>     pistons available?  I don't expect there were any domed stock ones.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Feb 28 22:48:58 2008
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 00:48:58 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
Message-ID: <bf4.1f7d5a7a.34f8f6ca@aol.com>

The head isn't period correct and may not be legal. If you can use larger  
valves you should certainly be able to use any compression pistons you  want.
 
Bill
 
In a message dated 28/02/2008 8:12:14 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
james.f.juhas at snet.net writes:

I  vintage race my 1957 MGA.  A little more compression might be nice,  
and permissible as long as it's period correct.

But mostly,  assembling a back up engine with what I have available is my 
main goal,  and I don't want to give up any power relative to my current  
engine.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Feb 29 01:50:10 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 08:50:10 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] BMC Factory Films - The British Motor Car (1963)
References: <038b01c87a22$8a11acb0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <00e201c87ab2$22942280$0200a8c0@Three>

Thanks for that.  Only seen half the first one but it takes me back to when I
visited Longbridge in the mid-60s.  The most impressive part was the foundry
where massive hammers banged out a crankshaft ready for grinding from a plain
billet in three hits.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Some You Tube BMC short films.


  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pHMDEim_KE&NR=1

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Feb 29 02:02:59 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:02:59 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content
References: <8527F622-9687-458F-BA24-18050626B338@trebelhorn.com>
	<004301c87a34$6d01c620$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <00e301c87ab2$22ba4820$0200a8c0@Three>

There are two Monaco's, and I don't mean geographically.  Yes, there are many
places to spend humungous amounts of money, but it is also a tourist
destination and so there is another 'tier' of more reasonable prices (well,
for someone from the UK anyway i.e. used to high prices for everything).  We
were there in 91 (to drive an F1 car at a private circuit nearby) just a week
before the GP.  I expected parking near the harbour to be ridiculously
expensive so parked up at the top and we walked down.  Gutted to see the
tunnel car park the same price as we had paid and with spaces!  Quite a buzz
to walk and drive the circuit with all the paraphernalia for the GP in place.
That said, GP week *is* one of the most expensive places you can go, many
locals renting out their apartments and making a fortune.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  Monaco by the way is one of the most expensive places in Europe anyway.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Feb 29 02:08:36 2008
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:08:36 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
References: <d38.217488d9.34f872a6@aol.com>
	<03ca01c87a5c$2a610380$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <010a01c87ab4$3cc58a20$0200a8c0@Three>

The spacers proper are already ally, but the slats can be in any material you
want.  I posted some instructions for making some from ally for Les Bengtson
here:  http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_bodyframe.htm
and click on 'Seats' and 'Seat Rails'.

PaulH.
  Is there any reason the spacers need to be made out of wood?  Could an
  appropriately sized AL bar stock work just as well?

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Feb 29 02:34:51 2008
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 20:04:51 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content
In-Reply-To: <8527F622-9687-458F-BA24-18050626B338@trebelhorn.com>
References: <8527F622-9687-458F-BA24-18050626B338@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <E011E6E9-2B02-49F6-B06D-C172883A1A03@erickson.on.net>

On 29/02/2008, at 2:56 AM, Matt Trebelhorn wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone offer advice?  Other than the obvious, of course, which is
> "Avoid that money-grubbing %^#$% Ecclestone," sound though that
> advice may be.
>
>

I have been to just six GP - but I have never paid a cent to get in  
the gate (accommodation and travel costs excepted).

AND the best seats (well mostly standing) in the house.  No-one  
between me and the track, which is usually a foot or so away.

It isn't for everyone but have you thought about seeing if they need  
any volunteer workers anywhere at the track?

There are many "specialist" positions which require some training/ 
experience but some do not.  We had a French girl working with us  
last year in Melbourne and she snared a job as a "spectator marshall"  
- which meant she patrolled the "moat" to spot errant spectators (the  
moat is the "no go" area between the track/debris fence and the  
spectator fence - the place where us other marshalls work).   No  
experience necessary.  If she spotted anyone there she might ask them  
to leave but usually she would just report them to us and we would  
call in security.

She got the "job" because she was backpacking around Australia and  
didn't have much money - and wanted to see the F1-GP.  She has never  
worked at a racetrack before.

She ended up having great fun and making lots of new friends!

Hey, I am planning on a bit of a "world tour" sometime where I will  
contact all racetracks in advance to see if they want an experience  
race official to help them out.  I am even trying to get onto the  
crew from Australia who will be heading up to Singapore to help them  
with their very first GP (and a night one at that).

Well, it is a thought.



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 29 06:32:40 2008
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 05:32:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content
In-Reply-To: <E011E6E9-2B02-49F6-B06D-C172883A1A03@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <536330.1194.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

   Yep.  I've worked 8 GPs and got into it just as
Eric describes.

rick


--- Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:

> On 29/02/2008, at 2:56 AM, Matt Trebelhorn wrote:
> >
> >
> > Can anyone offer advice?  Other than the obvious,
> of course, which is
> > "Avoid that money-grubbing %^#$% Ecclestone,"
> sound though that
> > advice may be.
> >
> >
> 
> I have been to just six GP - but I have never paid a
> cent to get in  
> the gate (accommodation and travel costs excepted).
> 
> AND the best seats (well mostly standing) in the
> house.  No-one  
> between me and the track, which is usually a foot or
> so away.
> 
> It isn't for everyone but have you thought about
> seeing if they need  
> any volunteer workers anywhere at the track?
> 
> There are many "specialist" positions which require
> some training/ 
> experience but some do not.  We had a French girl
> working with us  
> last year in Melbourne and she snared a job as a
> "spectator marshall"  
> - which meant she patrolled the "moat" to spot
> errant spectators (the  
> moat is the "no go" area between the track/debris
> fence and the  
> spectator fence - the place where us other marshalls
> work).   No  
> experience necessary.  If she spotted anyone there
> she might ask them  
> to leave but usually she would just report them to
> us and we would  
> call in security.
> 
> She got the "job" because she was backpacking around
> Australia and  
> didn't have much money - and wanted to see the
> F1-GP.  She has never  
> worked at a racetrack before.
> 
> She ended up having great fun and making lots of new
> friends!
> 
> Hey, I am planning on a bit of a "world tour"
> sometime where I will  
> contact all racetracks in advance to see if they
> want an experience  
> race official to help them out.  I am even trying to
> get onto the  
> crew from Australia who will be heading up to
> Singapore to help them  
> with their very first GP (and a night one at that).
> 
> Well, it is a thought.
> 
> 
> 
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Feb 29 07:24:32 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:24:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
Message-ID: <20080229.095003.3040.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

  Aluminum could serve as well for spacing, but it does introduce yet
another metal into an environment that is occasionally damp. Wood does
not squeak; it's light and cheap.  Besides, it maintains some of the MG
heritage of wood in the coachwork. 
  If the wood strips are rotting, that is an indication that there is too
much water in the area for too long. 
Bob


> 
> ================================
> 
> Is there any reason the spacers need to be made out of wood?  Could 
> an appropriately sized AL bar stock work just as well?
> 
> It seems foolish to keep on replacing rotted wood spacers.
> 
> 
> 
> Larry Daniels
> 
> 79 MGB LE
> 60 Bugeye
> 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

From derek at vandivere.net  Fri Feb 29 08:41:37 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 16:41:37 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?
Message-ID: <64766.145.221.24.5.1204299697.squirrel@vandivere.net>

So, my mechanic just suggested my next winter project - seems like the
wiring in my desmogged '78 B is getting pretty brittle and could use
replacing.

I've seen a couple articles on doing a rewiring, but from a practical
point of view, is the easiest way to go just to get a full complete
replacement loom and just not bother with any connections to the
desmogification bits that have been pulled from the car?

I'm now in the curious position of wanting it to rain so I can take the B
out. Just had the brand new mohair top put on, and the mechanic's telling
me to wait to put the top down until it's been rained on and can stretch
out a bit. Problem is I keep it in a garage, so I need to wait for a rainy
day to take the B out!

Thanks,
Derek

From RampantNM at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 09:08:41 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 11:08:41 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content
Message-ID: <c1a.3212e481.34f98809@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/29/2008 2:34:55 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
eric at erickson.on.net writes:

am even  trying to get onto the  
crew from Australia who will be heading up to  Singapore to help them  
with their very first GP (and a night one at  that).





Should be interesting to see where they mount the headlights on the Formula  
1's....think they will require tail and stop lights?
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From dscott1 at sonoma-county.org  Fri Feb 29 09:10:49 2008
From: dscott1 at sonoma-county.org (Don Scott)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 08:10:49 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?
Message-ID: <s7c7be1b.005@ipmail1.sonoma-county.org>

I have had a lot of MGs over the years, but I don't recall
that wiring got brittle.  It's copper with a plastic sheath.
 What can cause problems is the bullet connections.  You can
just find 'em all, clean 'em, and put dialectric grease on
them.  Also, locate and clean and put it on other
connections, fuses, grounds, etc. and you should be fine.  I
wouldn't rewire a car unless it was a real antique with
cloth covered wire, or if there had been a fire that ruined
the wires.  I have a friend that restored a '53 Chevy
pickup, and he just left the wiring in place as it was
plastic covered, not cloth.  He doesn't have any problems
with it at all.
Don Scott
'62 MGA
'91 Miata BRG


>>> <derek at vandivere.net> 02/29/08 7:41 AM >>>

So, my mechanic just suggested my next winter project -
seems like the
wiring in my desmogged '78 B is getting pretty brittle and
could use
replacing.

I've seen a couple articles on doing a rewiring, but from a
practical
point of view, is the easiest way to go just to get a full
complete
replacement loom and just not bother with any connections
to the
desmogification bits that have been pulled from the car?

I'm now in the curious position of wanting it to rain so I
can take the B
out. Just had the brand new mohair top put on, and the
mechanic's telling
me to wait to put the top down until it's been rained on
and can stretch
out a bit. Problem is I keep it in a garage, so I need to
wait for a rainy
day to take the B out!

Thanks,
Derek
You are subscribed as dscott1 at sonoma-county.org 


Mgs at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

http://www.team.net/archive 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Fri Feb 29 09:30:24 2008
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:30:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?
In-Reply-To: <s7c7be1b.005@ipmail1.sonoma-county.org>
References: <s7c7be1b.005@ipmail1.sonoma-county.org>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F2C7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

A lot of it depends on current condition of the wiring, as in the ends
like Don describes. In most cases, it should be fine. I rewired mine
with a new harness on my 72B during a full restoration but that was
because that whole group of wires that come out of the loom and connect
to all the appliances near the starter and coil had been cut in so many
places with resulting added wire splices that it was in need of dire
work. I suppose such maintenance is needed and can be done over years
but it went way beyond that at some point with previous owners. Consider
the cost of the wiring loom is somewhere around $300 and it involves
several hours of work but is doable by the home mechanic.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Don Scott
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:11 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?

I have had a lot of MGs over the years, but I don't recall
that wiring got brittle.  It's copper with a plastic sheath.
 What can cause problems is the bullet connections.  You can
just find 'em all, clean 'em, and put dialectric grease on
them.  Also, locate and clean and put it on other
connections, fuses, grounds, etc. and you should be fine.  I
wouldn't rewire a car unless it was a real antique with
cloth covered wire, or if there had been a fire that ruined
the wires.  I have a friend that restored a '53 Chevy
pickup, and he just left the wiring in place as it was
plastic covered, not cloth.  He doesn't have any problems
with it at all.
Don Scott
'62 MGA
'91 Miata BRG

From derek at vandivere.net  Fri Feb 29 09:39:55 2008
From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:39:55 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F2C7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <s7c7be1b.005@ipmail1.sonoma-county.org>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F2C7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <44199.145.221.24.5.1204303195.squirrel@vandivere.net>

Well, I was a bit suspicious of his self-interest in the job, especially
since his estimates usually turn out to be at least 100% off. He was
mentioning, and I've noticed, that a lot of the wiring is fairly brittle
(it's all the plastic casings), especially under the dash.

There does seem to be a fair number of snipped wires under the hood, which
is why I was suspecting the (removed before I got it) desmogging stuff.
The DPO did set it up so that one fan never was on and one fan always was
on, so I wonder if there were other kludges. Maaaybe it makes sense to
start with the dash sub-harness...

Good call on the hose - don't know whay I didn't think of that. Oh yeah,
the fact that you usually only need to wait about ten minutes for it start
raining in Amsterdam! Actually, here come te rain clouds, but I'd have to
stay at work another foew hours for the rain to start, probably.


> A lot of it depends on current condition of the wiring, as in the ends
> like Don describes. In most cases, it should be fine. I rewired mine
> with a new harness on my 72B during a full restoration but that was
> because that whole group of wires that come out of the loom and connect
> to all the appliances near the starter and coil had been cut in so many
> places with resulting added wire splices that it was in need of dire
> work. I suppose such maintenance is needed and can be done over years
> but it went way beyond that at some point with previous owners. Consider
> the cost of the wiring loom is somewhere around $300 and it involves
> several hours of work but is doable by the home mechanic.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Don Scott
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:11 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?
>
> I have had a lot of MGs over the years, but I don't recall
> that wiring got brittle.  It's copper with a plastic sheath.
>  What can cause problems is the bullet connections.  You can
> just find 'em all, clean 'em, and put dialectric grease on
> them.  Also, locate and clean and put it on other
> connections, fuses, grounds, etc. and you should be fine.  I
> wouldn't rewire a car unless it was a real antique with
> cloth covered wire, or if there had been a fire that ruined
> the wires.  I have a friend that restored a '53 Chevy
> pickup, and he just left the wiring in place as it was
> plastic covered, not cloth.  He doesn't have any problems
> with it at all.
> Don Scott
> '62 MGA
> '91 Miata BRG
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as derek at vandivere.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Feb 29 11:01:26 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:01:26 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
In-Reply-To: <20080229.095003.3040.3.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D6C3AF2@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I'm voting with Bob.

The wood spacers shuck water really well and do the job effectively.
When they get wet (often) they do tend to keep their shape and are often
intact even after three decades. Aluminium is likely to corrode and
cause more problems, although the alloy spacers tend not to get too
nasty over time.

Ok, I just argued both ways. Back to my original concept, if it ain't
broke.......




Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Howard
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:25 AM
> To: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] seat removal question
>
>   Aluminum could serve as well for spacing, but it does
> introduce yet another metal into an environment that is
> occasionally damp. Wood does not squeak; it's light and
> cheap.  Besides, it maintains some of the MG heritage of wood
> in the coachwork.
>   If the wood strips are rotting, that is an indication that
> there is too much water in the area for too long.
> Bob

From don at napanet.net  Fri Feb 29 11:24:35 2008
From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:24:35 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone live in Ventura CA?
Message-ID: <1204309475.47c84de3ab3fb@webmail.napanet.net>

Hello,
I've located an MG for sale there, and wondered if someone on the list might
live there and be able to check it out for me.  I'd be glad to pay for
someone's time.    
Thanks!
Don

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Feb 29 11:23:35 2008
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:23:35 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?
In-Reply-To: <64766.145.221.24.5.1204299697.squirrel@vandivere.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D6C3B10@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Derek:

Usually the only wiring that will tend to get hinky (technical term) is
that exposed to oil and heat. The alternator connectors, temp sender,
starter wiring etc. will tend to get brittle and when enough of these
bits get bad and you intend to keep the car in good shape it's time to
start looking at a harness.

I'd suggest taking a good look at the wiring before getting carried
away. A couple of hours with heat shrink tubing, a heat gun and
soldering iron can repair a heck of a lot of problems.

I'd only recomend doing a wiring harness if there was a lot of damage,
or sections of the harness were fused from a short. Or if the car were
completely stripped for a ground up restoration.


Cosmetically, once any damage is repaired I'd re wrap over the original
tape with the correct non-adhesive blue tape that Moss and others sell.
Use blue adhesive Scotch brand (not cheapo stuff) tape to secure the
ends (get this from an electrical contractor store).

The under bonnet harness in my '78 was badly rat chewed, but was able to
be repaired and re-wrapped in an afternoon.


Kelvin




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of derek at vandivere.net
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 7:42 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Rewiring the B?
>
> So, my mechanic just suggested my next winter project - seems
> like the wiring in my desmogged '78 B is getting pretty
> brittle and could use replacing.
>
> I've seen a couple articles on doing a rewiring, but from a
> practical point of view, is the easiest way to go just to get
> a full complete replacement loom and just not bother with any
> connections to the desmogification bits that have been pulled
> from the car?
>
> I'm now in the curious position of wanting it to rain so I
> can take the B out. Just had the brand new mohair top put on,
> and the mechanic's telling me to wait to put the top down
> until it's been rained on and can stretch out a bit. Problem
> is I keep it in a garage, so I need to wait for a rainy day
> to take the B out!
>
> Thanks,
> Derek

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Fri Feb 29 11:33:38 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 13:33:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Head Differences
In-Reply-To: <bf4.1f7d5a7a.34f8f6ca@aol.com>
References: <bf4.1f7d5a7a.34f8f6ca@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47C85002.2030409@snet.net>

Changing heads among 1500 and 1600 is obviously of no legitimacy 
concern, if they are the same anyway.  I wouldn't use an MGB head except 
as an extreme last resort given the corresponding compression loss; I 
doubt that bigger valves in that head would compensate.  Not worth the 
trouble to build something to compensate. That would start getting more 
expensive than I would like.

I have a complete Magnette engine that could be rebuilt in to a spare 
long block, but I'll need an electronic tachometer to go with it.  I 
also have an opportunity to acquire another Magnette engine that has 
been partially rebuilt.  That could be helpful to have, but since the 
compression of those is lower than the MGA, different pistons would be 
in order.

Of course, I have been driving behind some others who have taken much 
more liberty with the rules.  And spent more in the process.  No need 
for me to do that, especially since my car retains its drum brakes.  
Can't go faster than I can stop, or at least I don't want to.

Jim

WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
> The head isn't period correct and may not be legal. If you can use 
> larger valves you should certainly be able to use any compression 
> pistons you want.
>  
> Bill
>  
> In a message dated 28/02/2008 8:12:14 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
> james.f.juhas at snet.net writes:
>
>     I vintage race my 1957 MGA.  A little more compression might be nice,
>     and permissible as long as it's period correct.
>
>     But mostly, assembling a back up engine with what I have available
>     is my
>     main goal, and I don't want to give up any power relative to my
>     current
>     engine.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Feb 29 11:55:22 2008
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 12:55:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Grand Prix -- No MG content
In-Reply-To: <E011E6E9-2B02-49F6-B06D-C172883A1A03@erickson.on.net>
References: <8527F622-9687-458F-BA24-18050626B338@trebelhorn.com>
	<E011E6E9-2B02-49F6-B06D-C172883A1A03@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <47C8551A.3050501@gmail.com>

Eric Erickson wrote:
> On 29/02/2008, at 2:56 AM, Matt Trebelhorn wrote:
>   
>> Can anyone offer advice?  Other than the obvious, of course, which is
>> "Avoid that money-grubbing %^#$% Ecclestone," sound though that
>> advice may be.
>>
>>
>>     
>
> I have been to just six GP - but I have never paid a cent to get in  
> the gate (accommodation and travel costs excepted).
>
> AND the best seats (well mostly standing) in the house.  No-one  
> between me and the track, which is usually a foot or so away.
>
> It isn't for everyone but have you thought about seeing if they need  
> any volunteer workers anywhere at the track?
>
> There are many "specialist" positions which require some training/ 
> experience but some do not.  We had a French girl working with us  
> last year in Melbourne and she snared a job as a "spectator marshall"  
> - which meant she patrolled the "moat" to spot errant spectators (the  
> moat is the "no go" area between the track/debris fence and the  
> spectator fence - the place where us other marshalls work).   No  
> experience necessary.  If she spotted anyone there she might ask them  
> to leave but usually she would just report them to us and we would  
> call in security.
>
> She got the "job" because she was backpacking around Australia and  
> didn't have much money - and wanted to see the F1-GP.  She has never  
> worked at a racetrack before.
>
> She ended up having great fun and making lots of new friends!
>
> Hey, I am planning on a bit of a "world tour" sometime where I will  
> contact all racetracks in advance to see if they want an experience  
> race official to help them out.  I am even trying to get onto the  
> crew from Australia who will be heading up to Singapore to help them  
> with their very first GP (and a night one at that).
>
> Well, it is a thought.
I have only been to one GP, the Canadian, in 1967. Actually, I attended many Canadian GPs, but only that one was for F1 and points. They let us have that because it was the Centennial. It didn't cost me much at all, since gas was still cheap then and I drove the Mini in the preliminary races. I saw letters from West Coast Canadian drivers, protesting my inclusion in the line-up, since I was a Yank. Herman told them, "He lives here now. His car looks better than yours. He goes up on two wheels around Moss's Corner and the crowd loves it."

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/racing.html

-The Roxter
--

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Fri Feb 29 12:13:43 2008
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 14:13:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] seat removal question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3212.1204310036.1200.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF607B0FAF.0D34548A-ON852573FE.006960DC-852573FE.0069A07F@exxonmobil.com>

There's a fella making PVC seat packing; may be a better solution than wood
or aluminium
http://gem-enterprises.net/

Mark
73 MGBGT
80 Spitfire


From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] seat removal question

  Aluminum could serve as well for spacing, but it does introduce yet
another metal into an environment that is occasionally damp. Wood does not
squeak; it's light and cheap.  Besides, it maintains some of the MG
heritage of wood in the coachwork.    If the wood strips are rotting, that
is an indication that there is too much water in the area for too long.
Bob
>
>
> Is there any reason the spacers need to be made out of wood?  Could an
appropriately sized AL bar stock work just as well? It seems foolish to
keep on replacing rotted wood spacers.
>
> Larry Daniels

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Feb 29 15:10:39 2008
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 22:10:39 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing
Message-ID: <022920082210.24337.47C882DF000AB89000005F1122147564029F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Saw this listed as a 56 MGA yesterday. 
Now it's listed as a 1960, a year when they actually made twin-cams.
read the desciption. That's a 6 cyl. twin-cam!
Either this is a scam, or the writer needs to post information about this actual 
car, explaining the 'unique' characteristics.
Or, a decent proof reader.
Ebay item number: 270215896837

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWatchin
g&viewitem=&item=270215896837&_trksid=p3907.m32
--
Eric
1946 MG-TC
1959 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra

So many cars, so little parking

From RampantNM at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 15:27:04 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:27:04 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing
Message-ID: <d51.241ffc9c.34f9e0b8@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/29/2008 3:12:50 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
cyberemp at comcast.net writes:

That's a  6 cyl. twin-cam!




Must be using the famous "split-fire" twin electrode spark plugs as there  
are only four, so two of them must be firing two cylinders each...no?
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From elco506 at austin.rr.com  Fri Feb 29 16:01:30 2008
From: elco506 at austin.rr.com (Brian Lundgren)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:01:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing
In-Reply-To: <022920082210.24337.47C882DF000AB89000005F1122147564029F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
References: <022920082210.24337.47C882DF000AB89000005F1122147564029F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002601c87b27$059040e0$6501a8c0@Brian>

Musta' been a scam. Gone!

Brian Lundgren


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+elco506=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+elco506=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
cyberemp at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 4:11 PM
To: MG LIST
Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing

Saw this listed as a 56 MGA yesterday. 
Now it's listed as a 1960, a year when they actually made twin-cams.
read the desciption. That's a 6 cyl. twin-cam!
Either this is a scam, or the writer needs to post information about this
actual 
car, explaining the 'unique' characteristics.
Or, a decent proof reader.
Ebay item number: 270215896837

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWat
chin
g&viewitem=&item=270215896837&_trksid=p3907.m32
--
Eric
1946 MG-TC
1959 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra

So many cars, so little parking
You are subscribed as elco506 at austin.rr.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Fri Feb 29 16:10:34 2008
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 18:10:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing
References: <022920082210.24337.47C882DF000AB89000005F1122147564029F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<002601c87b27$059040e0$6501a8c0@Brian>
Message-ID: <00c501c87b28$4a0bba50$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Nope it is still there - try this url

http://tinyurl.com/2wrtkp

Rick
Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG 
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature 
Coast English Car Club
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Lundgren" <elco506 at austin.rr.com>
To: <cyberemp at comcast.net>; "'MG LIST'" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 18:01
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing


> Musta' been a scam. Gone!
>
> Brian Lundgren
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+elco506=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+elco506=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> cyberemp at comcast.net
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 4:11 PM
> To: MG LIST
> Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing
>
> Saw this listed as a 56 MGA yesterday.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWat

From mgs at bonacker.us  Fri Feb 29 16:28:58 2008
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 23:28:58 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Target stores gift card
Message-ID: <72a2f2683cae433f819ab7ec1785d7c8@114d751cae154ed59704d69b0385b075>

Yesterday I saw a gift card from Target with an MGA on it. The lettering on
the badge was unreadable, but the shape of the grill and the curves were
unmistakable.

That would be worth putting $5 on just to have one.

Scott

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Feb 29 18:10:59 2008
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:10:59 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing
In-Reply-To: <00c501c87b28$4a0bba50$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
References: <022920082210.24337.47C882DF000AB89000005F1122147564029F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<002601c87b27$059040e0$6501a8c0@Brian>
	<00c501c87b28$4a0bba50$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <40b437200802291710m2714b34dpc5f15be5356352ed@mail.gmail.com>

Someone bought it at $35k. The person who bought it appears to have an
interest in LBCs, because they have recently bought a set of carbs and
an air filter cover for a TR6, some Austin-Healey manuals, a
driveshaft for an MGB, and an MGB.



On Fri, Feb 29, 2008 at 3:10 PM, Rick Brown <mgrick at mgcars.org.uk> wrote:
> Nope it is still there - try this url
>
>  http://tinyurl.com/2wrtkp
>
>  Rick

From RampantNM at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 18:26:16 2008
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 20:26:16 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Count the errors in this listing
Message-ID: <d37.25df26c5.34fa0ab8@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/29/2008 4:01:48 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
elco506 at austin.rr.com writes:

Musta'  been a scam. Gone!

Brian Lundgren




No, scroll down, says someone did the Buy It Now for $35K.....
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From eugeneb at nni.com  Fri Feb 29 19:53:39 2008
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 21:53:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDPD Reformulation of 20W50 Racing Oil
Message-ID: <web-71431152@admin.nni.com>

All,

   This was sent to me by a friend of mine on the 'TD
list.l 

Safety Fast,

Gene Balinski
80 B

Reformulation of 20W50 Racing Oil
Lubestream Direct Connect

February 22, 2008
Dear ConocoPhillips Lubricants Marketer,

As part of our ongoing commitment to identify and provide
you, our valued Marketers, with products, programs and
tools to help you grow your business, we are pleased to
announce that 76 High Performance Motor Oil SAE 20W-50,
Kendall GT-1. High Performance Motor Oil SAE 20W-50 and
Phillips TropArtic. Racing Motor Oil 20W-50 will be
reformulated. 

The reformulated oils will contain a boosted level of zinc
dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) in order to offer enhanced
wear protection and oxidation resistance for use in the
most demanding applications. The new formulations will be
in
production in all plants by March 1.

We are confident that the enhanced formulation will address
concerns within the industry about current ILSAC GF-4 and
API SM engine oils and whether they contain sufficient
levels of ZDDP to protect older engines, especially
high-performance engines with flat-tappet camshafts. The
newly reformulated SAE 20W-50 viscosity grades of 76 High
Performance Motor Oil, Kendall GT-1. High Performance Motor
Oil and Phillips TropArtic. Racing Motor Oil will contain
approximately 1200 ppm zinc. Higher levels of ZDDP, which
provide antiwear/antiscuff protection as well as oxidation
inhibition, can help protect these new camshafts during the
critical break-in period.

The reformulated SAE 20W-50 viscosity grades will continue
to provide excellent protection in gasoline-fueled
competition engines, turbocharged engines, and
high-performance street engines, including those with
flat-tappet camshafts.

Please be sure to share this exciting reformulation
announcement with your customers who service
high-performance racing engines and  stay tuned for
announcements about the availability of this reformulated
product. Please contact your MSR with any questions.

Sincerely,
 
Phil Sontag
Director of Marketing, Automotive Lubricants
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