From doddk at mossmotors.com Fri Aug 1 11:06:33 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 10:06:33 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition switch wiring In-Reply-To: <006c01c8f37b$784146d0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E4FCBD7@kb1.mossmotors.com> That switch controls the "key in" buzzer, just like on real cars. Most of the time it is disconnected, because we don't need no stinkin buzzers in our MGs. It may also be used in the seat belt interlock system on some years, but that's another inconvenience we can do without too. Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of dannyvarnado > Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 7:08 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Ignition switch wiring > > Hi List, > Can anyone tell me what the purple/pink stripe wire in the > ignition switch harness attaches to on the steering column end? > This is the wire that goes to ground when the key is > inserted. It has a smaller than normal insulated female > spade connector and does not connect to the ignition switch itself. > Danny V. > '76 MGB From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Aug 1 14:02:48 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 13:02:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] axle nut Message-ID: <381352.7307.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Gang, Anyone here know; Is the RH rear axle nut (wires) the same from the MGA to the '70 MGB? Does the same socket fit both? 1-5/16" Is the RH axle nut on a '70 MGB a right-handed thread? Thanks. rick From mgbob at juno.com Fri Aug 1 15:03:06 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 17:03:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] "2 x 2bbl carburetors" Message-ID: <20080801.170307.424.22.MGBOB@juno.com> That was how Car & Driver described a replica Westfield Lotus XI in its June edition. Bill Spohn, frequent contributor to this list, sent a letter of correction to Car & Driver, a letter that was published in Sept 2008 issue, page 16. Thanks, Bill, for setting their editor straight. Bob who is envious of Bill's 44 cylinders and 31 venturis ____________________________________________________________ Find precision scales that can weigh anything. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mPT4BEWYHTjjOj2LHIctw2IWQ42KOnMDhxS1x9BLIsaWUZ3/ From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Aug 1 15:37:45 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 16:37:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] axle nut In-Reply-To: <381352.7307.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <381352.7307.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080801213733.AB0D0187644@autox.team.net> At 01:02 PM 8/1/2008 -0700, Rick Lindsay wrote: >.... > Is the RH rear axle nut (wires) the same from the MGA to the '70 > MGB? Does the same socket fit both? 1-5/16" No and no. The entire hub desgn changed with introducion of the Salsbury (tube type) axle in late 1968, The earlier nut is MUCH larger, 1-61/64-inch octagonal. > Is the RH axle nut on a '70 MGB a right-handed thread? >.... Yup. Any parts catalog shows same nut both sides for the later axle. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Aug 1 15:51:32 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 14:51:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plugs? Message-ID: <168354.91492.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Going out to Autozone tomorrow am to get the final items needed to start the car up, which I hope to do this week-end. All I have left to do is tighten the driver's side engine mount (which means removing the steering rack again), put the exhaust manifold and carb back on, replace the exhaust system, put the radiator back in, reconnect all of the underbonnet hoses and wires, do the alternator, fan belt, fan, plugs, radiator hoses, etc. Oh, and recharge the battery and replace all of the fluids. And bleed the brakes. ;-) What plugs are people using these days? Can anyone give me an idea of the order of the wires on the distributor? Two of the plug wires are not attached to the plugs that are in the engine now, but are connected to the distributor. TIA Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ (Currently down for a spam check!) http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From WSpohn4 at aol.com Fri Aug 1 16:25:40 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 18:25:40 EDT Subject: [Mgs] "2 x 2bbl carburetors" Message-ID: Sadly, I'll bet that most of their editorial staff were born after the last OEM carb was fitted to a new car... Bill In a message dated 8/1/2008 2:25:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mgbob at juno.com writes: That was how Car & Driver described a replica Westfield Lotus XI in its June edition. Bill Spohn, frequent contributor to this list, sent a letter of correction to Car & Driver, a letter that was published in Sept 2008 issue, page 16. Thanks, Bill, for setting their editor straight. Bob who is envious of Bill's 44 cylinders and 31 venturis From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 1 16:59:18 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 15:59:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Spark Plugs? In-Reply-To: <168354.91492.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I am using NGK BP6ES. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. on 8/1/08 2:51 PM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote: > Going out to Autozone tomorrow am to get the final items needed to start the > car up, which I hope to do this week-end. > All I have left to do is tighten the driver's side engine mount (which means > removing the steering rack again), put the exhaust > manifold and carb back on, replace the exhaust system, put the radiator back > in, reconnect all of the underbonnet hoses > and wires, do the alternator, fan belt, fan, plugs, radiator hoses, etc. Oh, > and recharge the battery and replace all of the fluids. > And bleed the brakes. ;-) > > What plugs are people using these days? > > Can anyone give me an idea of the order of the wires on the distributor? Two > of the plug wires are not attached to the plugs > that are in the engine now, but are connected to the distributor. > > TIA > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ (Currently down for a spam check!) > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 2 04:21:16 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:21:16 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition switch wiring References: <006c01c8f37b$784146d0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <022a01c8f48b$610ccf00$0200a8c0@Three> It will connect to the lock rather than the switch, as you say it outputs a ground whenever the key is in the lock and doesn't change regardless of where switch is turned to. It was independent of the sequential seat belt system, they just both happened to operate the same buzzer. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Can anyone tell me what the purple/pink stripe wire in the ignition switch harness attaches to on the steering column end? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 2 04:32:41 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:32:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure question References: <20080728144039.a5brnb50isokkowc@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <022b01c8f48b$612bc8b0$0200a8c0@Three> What year, and electric or mechanical? From my schematics the oil pressure gauges in 74 and 76 are mechanical and not electric (which only went up to 71) so there is no sender and it can only be the gauge or a problem with pressure (correct oil level doesn't automatically mean you will have correct pressure) If electric gauge I'd guess it was the sender, as they incorporate a pressure detector as well as a voltage regulator. Easy to check, just measure the voltage on the white/brown. Ordinarily it should be pulsing between 0v and battery voltage like the voltage regulator for the fuel gauge, the duty cycle changing as the pressure changes. A low duty cycle i.e. long off periods (showing battery voltage) and short on period (0v) will cause a low gauge reading, as will a high-resistance to ground during the on-period i.e. not dropping to zero. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Anybody have an idea where the fault lay when the oil pressure gauge indicates only the transition pressures? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 2 04:16:19 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:16:19 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? References: <20080728.095827.2996.5.MGBOB@juno.com> <00b101c8f10a$dd2f2300$978d6900$@com> Message-ID: <022901c8f48b$60e45f70$0200a8c0@Three> I'd be very surprised if a Haynes for the 4-cylinder (and that's the only one I'm aware of) does say 90wt oil for the gearbox, it would be an error. Mine says engine oil as does the (green cover) Leyland Workshop Manual. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have a Haynes that says 90w but my green-cover Bentley recommends the motor oils. From dannyvarnado at cox.net Sat Aug 2 09:19:16 2008 From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 08:19:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition switch wiring question clarification References: <006c01c8f37b$784146d0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> <022a01c8f48b$610ccf00$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <00a601c8f4b3$259cb750$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> My question is where does the buzzer wire connect on the steering column end? I can't find a terminal on the lock mechanism or anywhere else on the column to attach the wire to. I know it's somewhere on the column because I checked the function before I took the car apart several years ago. I should have taken pics because of this "CRS" brain of mine! ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Hunt To: dannyvarnado ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 3:21 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition switch wiring It will connect to the lock rather than the switch, as you say it outputs a ground whenever the key is in the lock and doesn't change regardless of where switch is turned to. It was independent of the sequential seat belt system, they just both happened to operate the same buzzer. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Can anyone tell me what the purple/pink stripe wire in the ignition switch harness attaches to on the steering column end? From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com Sat Aug 2 12:45:15 2008 From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 14:45:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? Message-ID: <23948474.536581217702715289.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web18-z02> FWIW my Haynes (1978 light blue cover edition) recites Castrol 20w-50 for the gearbox, 4.5 pints. Another part of the manual tells me whether this is British or US pints. The manual recommends changing this out every 12000 miles because metal filings will be present in the trans. oil. Mine was last changed in 1983 or 1984. Still shits strong, syncros don't seem worn. But the next time I change engine oil this fall, will change this out too. I did replace the diff goo with 90w Hypoy gear oil when I put new drive shaft assy in last year. My MG runs fine, just figured out that when my MG is 70 years old, I'll be 100. I really have too much idle time. Mel, 71MGB/GT ---- Paul Hunt wrote: > I'd be very surprised if a Haynes for the 4-cylinder (and that's the only one > I'm aware of) does say 90wt oil for the gearbox, it would be an error. Mine > says engine oil as does the (green cover) Leyland Workshop Manual. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > I have a Haynes that says 90w but my green-cover Bentley recommends > the motor oils. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Aug 2 15:30:46 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 14:30:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Progress and Question.... Message-ID: <565986.75610.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Made progress today, but am currently stymied by 2 hold-ups - locating alternator brackets (mine were left on the engine I exchanged, and the engine I bought doesn't have them!) and getting the old, catalytic converter downpipe out of the exhaust system - I have a '75 downpipe that I will be using. But got the manifold on and connected most of the wires and hoses that I can at this point. Here is the new problem - the distributor on the '75 is different from the distributor on the '76. The latter has a box next to the Chinese hat, and there is a 3-pronged connector from the wiring harness. The '75 has no box, and a single short wire comes out of it. See the pictures I linked below. http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8020006.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8020005.jpg So, any ideas on how to wire up the '75 distributor? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 2 18:48:54 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 18:48:54 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Progress and Question.... In-Reply-To: <565986.75610.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <> Yep, Dan. Call Jeff at Advance and see if he would swap you your's for a re-built 25D. Ed From tr6 at pipeline.com Sun Aug 3 05:52:49 2008 From: tr6 at pipeline.com (Ronald Olds) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 07:52:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Coco Floor Mats Message-ID: I remember someone was looking for coco floor mats for their car. The link below is has them on sale for 50% off. http://www.herringtoncatalog.com/ms341.html Ron Olds From Daybell7 at aol.com Sun Aug 3 09:42:15 2008 From: Daybell7 at aol.com (Daybell7 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:42:15 EDT Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing Message-ID: MG'ers, I don't understand where or how my timing should read for peak performance. While standing on the right side of the car with a timing light, should the notch on the crankshaft pulley read lower (closer to me) than the timing marks at 14 degrees BTDC? How can I maximize performance by adjusting the timing? I have an electronic ignition. The car doesn't run bad, but won't achieve high rpm (say >3000). Is this normal? Thanks in advance. Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 ) From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Aug 3 10:21:18 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 09:21:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Steve, your third sentence is a contradiction. IMHO any engine that won't pull to red line in at least the lower gears is not running good. FWIW my '67 will pull to 7,500 RPM+ (Now I freely admit I have a somewhat non-stock engine, balanced, cam and different needles in the carbs) in general, advancing the timing improves power, and lowers coolant temps. Retarding the timing decreases power and increases coolant temps. As engine speed increases, timing needs to advance to keep the power from falling off. However there comes a point (different for each engine design) where additional advance no longer helps. If I were you, I would set the timing back to factory spec, and then fault trace why the engine won't pull red line. Once you have the engine pulling red line, then try advancing the timing a couple of degrees at a time until you find the sweet spot of best power, no pre-ignition, and easy starting. Rick >>>How can I maximize performance by adjusting the timing? I have an electronic ignition. The car doesn't run bad, but won't achieve high rpm (say >3000). Is this normal? From don at napanet.net Sun Aug 3 11:07:54 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 09:07:54 -0800 Subject: [Mgs] unusual MGA Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080803084945.030daa98@pop.napanet.net> A friend of mine alerted me to an MGA which is presently on eBay. It was on display at the Woodland British Car Show a few months ago. It is an unusual specimen. However, something did get lost in the transition to modern, fast, and reliable- it's overdone. No patina on this one. I wonder if it will hit $100k. It really needs silver coloured wheels; the black wheels really detract given the car's black body. The level of quality is very very high. It will not be in California much longer; will it end up in Switzerland or Dubai? Personally, I prefer one that has two six-volt batteries, period-correct mirrors on the wings, period radio, but those items are not expensive to add to the car. He and I both noticed the car at the show and commented on it at the time. My friend's comment: ".. I note that super nice MK2 deluxe that was at the Woodland meet is up on ebay .. I've NEVER seen another that nice .. must have cost a fortune to restore ... cheers". http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGA-1962-MGA-1600-MKII-DELUXE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ80750QQihZ007QQitemZ170246235474QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Don Scott Napa Valley, CA MGA Mk II (very ordinary in comparison!) MGB GT (beautiful, looking for new home) Miata BRG (not British but gets me there) TR4 (don't have yet) From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Aug 3 14:05:27 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 13:05:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Z-S Carb Linkage Picture Message-ID: <653375.71748.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Anyone running the Zenith-Stromberg single carb, I could use a detailed picture of the throttle linkage. I have a picture I took before disassembly but I'm not convinced I had it right last time I took it apart. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 3 18:33:23 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 19:33:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tonneau cover References: <20080414.100355.3252.12.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <000201c8f5c9$b5441a30$6415a8c0@garage.local> Hi, all. can anyone tell me if this is the 62 to 67 (moss 241-440) or the 68 to 70 (241-443), and if they are interchangeable? http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/ From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Aug 3 20:10:35 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 21:10:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tonneau cover In-Reply-To: <000201c8f5c9$b5441a30$6415a8c0@garage.local> References: <20080414.100355.3252.12.MGBOB@juno.com> <000201c8f5c9$b5441a30$6415a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <2DA46BC4-33FE-4951-A170-B7C280C03C80@gmail.com> yes and no. The 68 to 70 have pockets for the head rests, the 62-67 have none. On Aug 3, 2008, at 7:33 PM, Oliver wrote: > Hi, all. can anyone tell me if this is the 62 to 67 (moss 241-440) > or the > 68 to 70 (241-443), and if they are interchangeable? > > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 3 21:07:07 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 20:07:07 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] tonneau cover In-Reply-To: <000201c8f5c9$b5441a30$6415a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: No headrest pockets; hence, 62-67. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/3/08 5:33 PM, Oliver at sumton at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi, all. can anyone tell me if this is the 62 to 67 (moss 241-440) or the > 68 to 70 (241-443), and if they are interchangeable? > > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 4 01:53:36 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 08:53:36 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition switch wiring question clarification References: <006c01c8f37b$784146d0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096><022a01c8f48b$610ccf00$0200a8c0@Three> <00a601c8f4b3$259cb750$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096> Message-ID: <012c01c8f610$b6a70d50$0200a8c0@Three> Like I say it should be somewhere on the lock (I can't tell you exactly where as the was UK never lumbered with any of that crap), as that will be the only place that will be able to detect when the key is in and out. If the lock hasn't been changed then maybe you pulled the spade off with the connector. I'm surprised someone else on your side of the pond hasn't chipped-in by now. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- My question is where does the buzzer wire connect on the steering column end? I can't find a terminal on the lock mechanism or anywhere else on the column to attach the wire to. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 4 02:18:21 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 09:18:21 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing References: Message-ID: <012e01c8f610$b6f5c990$0200a8c0@Three> Certainly with a high compression engine maximum efficiency (which delivers both best performance when you are using the power and best economy when you aren't) is governed by the onset of pinking - ideally the timing should be just short of pinking right across the throttle/load/revs range. Changing any one of those factors moves the point at which pinking starts, and the centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms are intended to take account of them. However they are mechanical and relatively crude, so in practice you can only get an approximation. Another huge factor is fuel octane, and as modern fuel has come down in octane and changed in formulation it has tended to make engine pink when they wouldn't before, so you have to retard the timing if you can't get high-octane, and this has to be the rule of thumb these days and not any hard and fast number in a book from 30 years ago. With low compression it is less clear-cut, you may not get pinking, and if you start advancing the timing too much to try and get more power *that* will cause high running temps, and in extreme cases can stall the starter. The last pointer the notch passes is TDC, the notches before that are BTDC, usually 5 and 15 degrees being smaller than 10 and 20. Whether you have electronic ignition or not makes no change to the above. As another has said if you can't exceed 3k (and I'd add in *any* gear) on the flat there is something very wrong. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- How can I maximize performance by adjusting the timing? I have an electronic ignition. The car doesn't run bad, but won't achieve high rpm (say >3000). Is this normal? From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 4 06:09:11 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 05:09:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Almost There... Message-ID: <219352.2966.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Well, made a lot of progress this week-end, with work on the B sandwiched in around other activities, including my wife's birthday yesterday ;-) Had an issue with the alternator brackets, i.e., the 'new' engine didn't have them! Tried to use the part of a spare GB-Series engine (I have a couple of blocks 'lying around') but it was too short and didn't fit the newer, alternator holes in the block. Fortunately, I have a buddy locally with a complete '74 (with Sabrinas) and he let me have the needed parts. I've also sourced a set that is being shipped to replace those from my buddy's car. So the alternator is all set. Next task was to get the new '75 non-catalyst downpipe into the exhaust. Had a tough time getting the old one out, but the same buddy has a very nice professional oxy-aceteline torch that made quick work of heating and removing the old pipe and installing the new. So, the exhaust is now hung - although I need to get a nut for the bolt that goes through manifold flange. A Home Despot trip is planned for today. I also changed the plugs (Autozone was out of NGK's so I grabbed the Champions). While there I stocked up on coolant, brake fluid, radiator clamps and gasket seal. I also got the fan installed, along with the fan belt and some miscellaneous wires and hoses. I need to finish bolting the exhaust up, and try and get it off of the steering shaft. Install the carb (still looking for that linkage photo) and figure out what to do with the dizzy - try and wire the existing one or replace with my electronic one. Then the radiator goes back in and the brakes need to be bled. I'm hoping to be able to fire it up Wednesday evening. Pictures in the '76 B blog in my sig. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled and Almost There! '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 4 06:16:59 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 05:16:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] What are these wires? Message-ID: <205761.33156.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have a couple of extra wires that come out of the alternator bundle. Since I didn't mark them, I am wondering if maybe they are extras for the emissions controls that have been removed....? You can see the 3-pronged female connector and the single, green-wired spade connector in the photo linked below. http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8030005.jpg Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 4 06:30:05 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 05:30:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] unusual MGA Message-ID: <314776.59172.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Beautiful car! I like the black knock-off wheels, gives it a '50's hot rod look that matches it's (assumed) performance. Very tastefully done. But there IS some patina on the car - overspray on the engine number plate! ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: don To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 3, 2008 1:07:54 PM Subject: [Mgs] unusual MGA A friend of mine alerted me to an MGA which is presently on eBay. It was on display at the Woodland British Car Show a few months ago. It is an unusual specimen. However, something did get lost in the transition to modern, fast, and reliable- it's overdone. No patina on this one. I wonder if it will hit $100k. It really needs silver coloured wheels; the black wheels really detract given the car's black body. The level of quality is very very high. It will not be in California much longer; will it end up in Switzerland or Dubai? Personally, I prefer one that has two six-volt batteries, period-correct mirrors on the wings, period radio, but those items are not expensive to add to the car. He and I both noticed the car at the show and commented on it at the time. My friend's comment: ".. I note that super nice MK2 deluxe that was at the Woodland meet is up on ebay .. I've NEVER seen another that nice .. must have cost a fortune to restore ... cheers". http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGA-1962-MGA-1600-MKII-DELUXE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ80750QQihZ007QQitemZ170246235474QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW From mgbob at juno.com Mon Aug 4 07:02:57 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 09:02:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing Message-ID: <20080804.090326.2300.6.MGBOB@juno.com> Steve, The spark sparks at different points in the engine cycle depending on the engine rpm. The purpose of the advance weights in the distributor is to "advance" the spark (making it earlier, more before Top Dead Center) as the engine speed is increased, to a limit of about 32 degrees. What should happen is that the vacuum advance and the centrifugal (weights) advance work together to move the timing around to best meet the engine's needs at any given speed and load (hills / flatland, accellerating / coasting) etc. These distributors are not precision instruments, they're 30+ years old, fuels have changed and other variables are now in the picture. As Paul pointed out, one determines the optimum setting for a given engine by experimentation. There may be no perfect setting. But if your engine isn't revving above 3000, something is quite abnormal. It should rev easily to 5000 or more. To the task--- The engine turns clockwise as you look at the pulley. The notch on the pulley represents Top Dead Center. The large timing pointer is 0; each of the little ones represents 5 degrees advance. At the prescribed speed ( 1500 rpm or so ) with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged so air is not sucked into the engine, set timing to the prescribed advance (14, 15, 16, whatever ) with the pulley notch aligned with the pointer, snug the bolts and reconnect the vacuum line. Then when you then shine the timing light on the marks as someone revs the engine, you should see the timing advance, then retard as engine slows. If that does not happen, the advance mechanism is not working properly. If that advance and retard does not take place, write back. Another way to do this timing is suggested by John Twist, which is to make a mark for 32 degrees, then set the timing at 3000 rpm. Those who are not comfortable with their faces close to spinning fan will prefer the 1500 rpm method. They both work. Bob On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:42:15 EDT Daybell7 at aol.com writes: > MG'ers, > > I don't understand where or how my timing should read for peak > performance. > > While standing on the right side of the car with a timing light, > should the notch on the crankshaft pulley read lower (closer to me) than the > timing marks at 14 degrees BTDC? > > How can I maximize performance by adjusting the timing? I have an > electronic ignition. The car doesn't run bad, but won't achieve > high rpm (say 3000). Is this normal? > > Thanks in advance. > > Steve Hughes > Gainesville, FL ____________________________________________________________ Click to see huge collection of designer watches. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mc2x1hCAtZntQoJoaTZwn9CvdqXUJwBTnqoonSZCG3fMmDD/ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 4 07:37:58 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 14:37:58 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] What are these wires? References: <205761.33156.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007601c8f63a$94df3010$0200a8c0@Three> They could be for the electronic distributor. The early (and very troublesome) 'Opus' system with the electronics in the distributor body had white, white/blue and white/black wires. The later (and very reliable) CEI system with the electronics module on the inner wing has yellow/red and black wires. It looks to me like the off-car distributor you posted a photo off is the earlier Opus type, the one on-car is a points type, and the photo of the engine bay with the black box behind the bonnet strut is for the later CEI system! You will have fun getting something working out of that lot. The single green will be for the Zenith manifold heater. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have a couple of extra wires that come out of the alternator bundle... From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Aug 4 08:08:41 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 09:08:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] What are these wires? In-Reply-To: <205761.33156.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <205761.33156.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The single spade is probably the carb pre-heater lead. As to the 3 prong, did the 76 dizzy have that mate? On Aug 4, 2008, at 7:16 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > I have a couple of extra wires that come out of the alternator > bundle. Since I didn't mark them, I am wondering if maybe > they are extras for the emissions controls that have been > removed....? You can see the 3-pronged female connector and the > single, green-wired spade connector in the photo linked below. > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8030005.jpg > > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ > > <*> Your email settings: > Individual Email | Traditional > > <*> To change settings online go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join > (Yahoo! ID required) > > <*> To change settings via email: > mailto:MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com > mailto:MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com > > <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 4 08:23:09 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 07:23:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing In-Reply-To: <012e01c8f610$b6f5c990$0200a8c0@Three> References: <012e01c8f610$b6f5c990$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: If you are referring to coolant temps, then this is incorrect. Advancing the timing decreases coolant temp. If you were referring to exhaust gas temp then you would be correct. Rick >> if you start advancing the timing too much to try and get more power *that* will cause high running temps, From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 4 09:10:33 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 16:10:33 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 99,999 Message-ID: <002101c8f649$970d5ce0$0200a8c0@Three> For the first time in over 40 years and more than a dozen cars at long last I've had one go round the clock - the V8. http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/00000.htm Not only that but this was it's 2nd time round, so it is now on its 3rd! It's the original engine, and judging by the piston markings has only had one rebore, and I reckon that must be getting on for at least 100k ago as I've done 75k and there is no mention of it in the immediate POs list of work done. I did the top-end and cam and followers just a couple of years ago, and while the heads were off could still see the honing marks over most of the bore surfaces. Over the winter I'll take the sump off and investigate the big ends, mains and crank, and then take a view on another rebore and regrind. PaulH. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 4 09:55:11 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 08:55:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] 99,999 Message-ID: <568639.66666.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Very cool, Paul! Congrats! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: V8 list ; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 4, 2008 11:10:33 AM Subject: [MG-MGB] 99,999 For the first time in over 40 years and more than a dozen cars at long last I've had one go round the clock - the V8. http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/00000.htm Not only that but this was it's 2nd time round, so it is now on its 3rd! It's the original engine, and judging by the piston markings has only had one rebore, and I reckon that must be getting on for at least 100k ago as I've done 75k and there is no mention of it in the immediate POs list of work done. I did the top-end and cam and followers just a couple of years ago, and while the heads were off could still see the honing marks over most of the bore surfaces. Over the winter I'll take the sump off and investigate the big ends, mains and crank, and then take a view on another rebore and regrind. PaulH. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com mailto:MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 4 09:58:32 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 16:58:32 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing References: <012e01c8f610$b6f5c990$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <004701c8f64f$9dfe30f0$0200a8c0@Three> No, I'm correct. Whilst if the timing is retarded you will get higher running temps as more of the energy in the fuel is converted to waste heat rather than forward motion as the piston is too far down and the gasses have already expanded too much. The same thing happens if you advance the timing *too much* (as I said before). In this case more of the energy is expended while the piston is still moving upwards, and again becomes waste heat, as it cannot be used to push the piston down until it has passed TDC. This is only likely to happen in low compression engines over any period of time, in high compression you will get violent pinking if not detonation to (hopefully) alert the driver to the situation. With ideal timing you get maximum conversion of energy to forward motion, and the least amount to wasted heat. I don't see why you differentiate between coolant temp and exhaust temp, since it has to come out of the combustion chamber which is surrounded by coolant an increase in exhaust temp will also cause an increase in coolant temp. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Ewald To: Paul Hunt Cc: Daybell7 at aol.com ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 3:23 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing If you are referring to coolant temps, then this is incorrect. Advancing the timing decreases coolant temp. If you were referring to exhaust gas temp then you would be correct. Rick >> if you start advancing the timing too much to try and get more power *that* will cause high running temps, From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 4 10:56:50 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 09:56:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 99,999 In-Reply-To: <002101c8f649$970d5ce0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Congrats. My B rolled over 200K two years ago on the California Melee vintage rally, while passing through Garberville CA (well, "passing through" doesn't precisely convey the circumstances -- "unplanned stop while trying to puzzle out the intermittent stall" would be more accurate. It turned out to be the fuel pump on its last legs). On Saturday I met a few fellow MGers for breakfast in San Jose, and noted it was just hitting 7777. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/4/08 8:10 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > For the first time in over 40 years and more than a dozen cars at long last > I've had one go round the clock - the V8. > > http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/00000.htm > > Not only that but this was it's 2nd time round, so it is now on its 3rd! It's > the original engine, and judging by the piston markings has only had one > rebore, and I reckon that must be getting on for at least 100k ago as I've > done 75k and there is no mention of it in the immediate POs list of work done. > I did the top-end and cam and followers just a couple of years ago, and while > the heads were off could still see the honing marks over most of the bore > surfaces. Over the winter I'll take the sump off and investigate the big > ends, mains and crank, and then take a view on another rebore and regrind. > > PaulH. From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Aug 4 11:24:22 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 10:24:22 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] What are these wires? In-Reply-To: <205761.33156.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E4FCD65@kb1.mossmotors.com> All the replies are accurate. The three pin is the old feed line to the Opus type distributor. If you are running points or an aftermarket electronic ignition, this is no longer needed. The green used to feed the carburetor heater. My suggestion is to make sure that the green wire terminal is insulated carefully, then tie this bundle of wires back against the main harness tidily. There is no real need to cut and remove the wires. Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Dan DiBiase > Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:17 AM > To: mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List > Subject: [Mgs] What are these wires? > > I have a couple of extra wires that come out of the > alternator bundle. Since I didn't mark them, I am wondering > if maybe they are extras for the emissions controls that have > been removed....? You can see the 3-pronged female connector > and the single, green-wired spade connector in the photo linked below. > > http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20En gine%20Work/P8030005.jpg > > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... > NAMGBR #5-2328 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 4 11:29:48 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 10:29:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing In-Reply-To: <004701c8f64f$9dfe30f0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <012e01c8f610$b6f5c990$0200a8c0@Three> <004701c8f64f$9dfe30f0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Paul, The reason I mentioned both exhaust temp and coolant temps is that the effect of timing on both of them is different. Retarding the timing means the peak pressure and temp inside the combustion chamber is lower. Less cylinder pressure means lower combustion temps and therefore lower exhaust temps. However since the engine will produce less power, more heat will be transferred into the coolant. Advancing the spark, will produce the the opposite effect. Exhaust gas temps and peak cylinder pressure will go up, and as more power is being produced, less heat will be transferred into the coolant. I suppose it might be possible to advance a running engine to the point that the coolant temps started to go back up, but I seriously doubt you could start it that far advanced. While these differences don't amount to much on an LBC, when you start looking at modern cars, these differences are critical. To combat NOX timing is sometimes retarded to lower exhaust gas temps. (along with low compression pistons) To warm up the engine and get the emissions contol systems on line, timing is often retarded at cold start. If the car starts to overheat, the computer will advance the timing to lower the heat load on the cooling system. On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 8:58 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > No, I'm correct. Whilst if the timing is retarded you will get higher > running temps as more of the energy in the fuel is converted to waste heat > rather than forward motion as the piston is too far down and the gasses have > already expanded too much. The same thing happens if you advance the timing > *too much* (as I said before). In this case more of the energy is expended > while the piston is still moving upwards, and again becomes waste heat, as > it cannot be used to push the piston down until it has passed TDC. This is > only likely to happen in low compression engines over any period of time, in > high compression you will get violent pinking if not detonation to > (hopefully) alert the driver to the situation. With ideal timing you get > maximum conversion of energy to forward motion, and the least amount to > wasted heat. > > I don't see why you differentiate between coolant temp and exhaust > temp, since it has to come out of the combustion chamber which is surrounded > by coolant an increase in exhaust temp will also cause an increase in > coolant temp. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Richard Ewald > *To:* Paul Hunt > *Cc:* Daybell7 at aol.com ; mgs at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Monday, August 04, 2008 3:23 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB Timing > > If you are referring to coolant temps, then this is incorrect. Advancing > the timing decreases coolant temp. If you were referring to exhaust gas > temp then you would be correct. > Rick > > > >> if you start advancing the timing too much to try and get more power > *that* will cause high running temps, From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 4 12:14:24 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 11:14:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re: What are these wires? Message-ID: <90085.78378.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> It's not for the distributor. I have another 3-pronged female connector that I marked 'distributor' that comes out from the black box. This other connector is in the same bundle as the alternator connection. It's pretty dirty inside the connectors, that's why I was thinking it may have had something to do with the (removed) emissions controls. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: Dan DiBiase ; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Monday, August 4, 2008 9:37:58 AM Subject: [MG-MGB] Re: [Mgs] What are these wires? They could be for the electronic distributor. The early (and very troublesome) 'Opus' system with the electronics in the distributor body had white, white/blue and white/black wires. The later (and very reliable) CEI system with the electronics module on the inner wing has yellow/red and black wires. It looks to me like the off-car distributor you posted a photo off is the earlier Opus type, the one on-car is a points type, and the photo of the engine bay with the black box behind the bonnet strut is for the later CEI system! You will have fun getting something working out of that lot. The single green will be for the Zenith manifold heater. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have a couple of extra wires that come out of the alternator bundle... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MG-MGB/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:MG-MGB-digest at yahoogroups.com mailto:MG-MGB-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: MG-MGB-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 4 09:55:11 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 08:55:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] 99,999 Message-ID: <568639.66666.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Very cool, Paul! Congrats! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Engine Reinstalled... '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, Still Is.... NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: V8 list ; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 4, 2008 11:10:33 AM Subject: [MG-MGB] 99,999 For the first time in over 40 years and more than a dozen cars at long last I've had one go round the clock - the V8. http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/00000.htm Not only that but this was it's 2nd time round, so it is now on its 3rd! It's the original engine, and judging by the piston markings has only had one rebore, and I reckon that must be getting on for at least 100k ago as I've done 75k and there is no mention of it in the immediate POs list of work done. I did the top-end and cam and followers just a couple of years ago, and while the heads were off could still see the honing marks over most of the bore surfaces. Over the winter I'll take the sump off and investigate the big ends, mains and crank, and then take a view on another rebore and regrind. PaulH. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -------------------------------------------------------- NOTICE: If received in error, please destroy and notify sender. Sender does not intend to waive confidentiality or privilege. Use of this email is prohibited when received in error. From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Aug 4 13:08:18 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 12:08:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] tonneau cover In-Reply-To: <000201c8f5c9$b5441a30$6415a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E4FCDE6@kb1.mossmotors.com> Oliver: The tonneau cover shown obviously does not have the headrest pockets, but the snap fasteners at the front indicate that it may have been fitted to a later car, not a 1962-67 model. The early cars had lift a dot fasteners on the dashboard about 3 inches in from the ends. The later cars had a snap fastener on the windshield A post. The front corner snap locations look like they would hit the A post, but it's hard to really tell. This looks like it could be a Robbins tonneau. If so, the short side zippers indicate that this is a late tonneau made without head rest pockets. This design gives a much smoother look and just requires the seat to be folded forward to fit. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Oliver > Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 5:33 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] tonneau cover > > Hi, all. can anyone tell me if this is the 62 to 67 (moss > 241-440) or the > 68 to 70 (241-443), and if they are interchangeable? From bobmgtd at comcast.net Mon Aug 4 15:14:31 2008 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 17:14:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? References: <796145.78883.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E3E2043@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <006d01c8f677$351ec810$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> I've always found heavier oil to be helpfull in an old trany with worn snycros. Am I wrong? Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Ewald" To: "Dodd, Kelvin" Cc: "MG List" ; Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 1:15 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > Been there done that. I would change it. With the engine cold, even in > the > summer, the 90W will be too thick for the snycros to work properly. Ask > me > how I know this. > > I agree that once the trans is warm it will probablly work OK, but I would > be worried about eating up the syncros during the time the trans is > shifting. > > Kevin, 90W is not that much different in viscosity from 30W engine oil? > What? Maybe you have better go try pouring a litttle of each out at room > temp. 90W is way thicker. > Rick > > > > On 7/21/08, Dodd, Kelvin wrote: >> >> Dan: >> >> If I had done this to my own transmission, I would just leave the 90W in >> it. >> >> I'm doubting that you plan on driving the car during the winter, so >> unless you find the shifting is really stiff I would not worry about it. >> >> >> The 90W is not going to hurt the transmission at all. In really cold >> weather, you may find that shifting is slightly stiffer but 90W gear oil >> is not that much different in viscosity from 30W engine oil. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as bobmgtd at comcast.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From kbeck100 at rcn.com Mon Aug 4 16:14:29 2008 From: kbeck100 at rcn.com (Ken Beck) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 18:14:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <001a01c8f67f$76ca5470$4bfc3ad0@recroom> Gas over 1 year old can cause real problems. 8 years old could be a disaster. Call around to disposal businesses and find one that disposes old oil, antifreeze etc. Whatever you do don't put it in an engine that you care about. I've had about 6 of these to redo in the past few years. Sticks the intake valves and then the rest goes. Ken BEck ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Fine" To: "MG List" ; Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:51 AM Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas > When is gas too old to use? I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB > that > has been sitting for about 1 year. I am finishing the rebuild of the > engine > and plan to fire it up later this month. Should I dump the gas first or > should it be OK. I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored > outside > during this period. > > Ron > 61 BN7 > 66 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 4 15:47:03 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 14:47:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? In-Reply-To: <006d01c8f677$351ec810$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: In that context, heavier oil would refer to 40w engine oil, not 90w gear oil. As has been mentioned, the two have different properties, and are rated using different scales of viscosity. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/4/08 2:14 PM, Bob Donahue at bobmgtd at comcast.net wrote: > I've always found heavier oil to be helpfull in an old trany with worn > snycros. Am I wrong? > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Ewald" > To: "Dodd, Kelvin" > Cc: "MG List" ; > Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 1:15 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 90w in Transmission? > > >> Been there done that. I would change it. With the engine cold, even in >> the >> summer, the 90W will be too thick for the snycros to work properly. Ask >> me >> how I know this. >> >> I agree that once the trans is warm it will probablly work OK, but I would >> be worried about eating up the syncros during the time the trans is >> shifting. >> >> Kevin, 90W is not that much different in viscosity from 30W engine oil? >> What? Maybe you have better go try pouring a litttle of each out at room >> temp. 90W is way thicker. >> Rick >> >> >> >> On 7/21/08, Dodd, Kelvin wrote: >>> >>> Dan: >>> >>> If I had done this to my own transmission, I would just leave the 90W in >>> it. >>> >>> I'm doubting that you plan on driving the car during the winter, so >>> unless you find the shifting is really stiff I would not worry about it. >>> >>> >>> The 90W is not going to hurt the transmission at all. In really cold >>> weather, you may find that shifting is slightly stiffer but 90W gear oil >>> is not that much different in viscosity from 30W engine oil. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 4 16:31:45 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 15:31:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas In-Reply-To: <001a01c8f67f$76ca5470$4bfc3ad0@recroom> Message-ID: I don't know that one-year-old gas would be that big a problem, though I might get fussy about it if I were firing up a new engine (as opposed to just restarting the old one after hibernation). Who said anything about 8 years? on 8/4/08 3:14 PM, Ken Beck at kbeck100 at rcn.com wrote: > Gas over 1 year old can cause real problems. 8 years old could be a > disaster. Call around to disposal businesses and find one that disposes old > oil, antifreeze etc. Whatever you do don't put it in an engine that you care > about. I've had about 6 of these to redo in the past few years. Sticks the > intake valves and then the rest goes. > > Ken BEck > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron Fine" > To: "MG List" ; > Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:51 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas > > >> When is gas too old to use? I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB >> that >> has been sitting for about 1 year. I am finishing the rebuild of the >> engine >> and plan to fire it up later this month. Should I dump the gas first or >> should it be OK. I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored >> outside >> during this period. >> >> Ron >> 61 BN7 >> 66 MGB -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From montejane at gmail.com Mon Aug 4 19:16:00 2008 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 21:16:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas In-Reply-To: <001a01c8f67f$76ca5470$4bfc3ad0@recroom> References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400> <001a01c8f67f$76ca5470$4bfc3ad0@recroom> Message-ID: Ken, I had a new Honda emergency generator that had set for a year between starts. It wouldn't fire up, so I took it back to the dealer to see what was wrong. The mechanic said he took some of the gas out and through it on the garage floor and attempted to light it; no luck. New gas and it fired right up. Monte On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 6:14 PM, Ken Beck wrote: > Gas over 1 year old can cause real problems. 8 years old could be a > disaster. Call around to disposal businesses and find one that disposes old > oil, antifreeze etc. Whatever you do don't put it in an engine that you > care > about. I've had about 6 of these to redo in the past few years. Sticks the > intake valves and then the rest goes. > > Ken BEck > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron Fine" > To: "MG List" ; > Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:51 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas > > > > When is gas too old to use? I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB > > that > > has been sitting for about 1 year. I am finishing the rebuild of the > > engine > > and plan to fire it up later this month. Should I dump the gas first or > > should it be OK. I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored > > outside > > during this period. > > > > Ron > > 61 BN7 > > 66 MGB > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Aug 5 11:04:50 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 10:04:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Latest work Message-ID: <190234.10945.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> So I don't repeat myself - http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer Project NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From ptrmgb at gmail.com Tue Aug 5 12:36:24 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 13:36:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Latest work In-Reply-To: <190234.10945.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <190234.10945.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'm surprised about the dizzy, Dan. But that picture sure looks like the oil hose to the oil cooler is in the way. It must be shorter than stock. There is the clamp on the top of the dizzy bracket, you could loosen that and remove that way. But as long as the dizzy shaft is ok, points will be fine. Paul. On Aug 5, 2008, at 12:04 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > So I don't repeat myself - http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > > ;-) > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer Project > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From barrie at look.ca Tue Aug 5 16:10:08 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 18:10:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] IGNORE TEST ONLY Message-ID: TEST ONE - 6.09 TUESDAY Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Aug 5 16:16:04 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 15:16:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] A little progress Message-ID: <569482.30954.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Friends, After a long hiatus, I made a little progress today on my MGB restoration. That work will echo down through the other projects. So here's the story. Today, I got the right-rear brakes rebuilt on my '70 MGB. That was the last corner. I'm now ready to bleed the brakes, loosen the handbrake adjustment so I can reconnect the handbrake cable, and finally, remount the wheels. Once the wheels are back on I can drive it again and get it out of the garage. I'll be able to drive it and store it anywhere I please. With the MG out, the '61 Mercedes 180b Ponton will go into the garage. It's ready for a driver-status restoration, a little at a time. And in between the Ponton projects, the interior of the Ferrari still needs completion. Aaaa, the fun of car projects!!! rick From barrie at look.ca Tue Aug 5 16:26:20 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 18:26:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Back from the void Message-ID: Gentlemen, For the past few weeks (maybe months!) I have not been receiving emails from the list so I might have missed things. Some little gremlin somehow cut me off from the list and all the associated help addresses. After tons of attempts to restore things and in desperation I called Mark Bradakis and explained my problem and also asked for an Aston Martin list. The Aston Martin list came up fast and now a few days later I am up on the list. Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 (Canada) MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm TRY www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies From Aeseeyou at aol.com Tue Aug 5 17:38:06 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 19:38:06 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Unique car Message-ID: HO.. A friend of mine has a very nice Uniquely American British hybrid known as a 1954 Sallow -Dorretti for sale on eBay I've driven it and it is really a nice car..Unfortunately I'm sure it'll go for at least $25-$30K possibly more since it is probably one of the nicest Dorretti's still around (only 273 were ever built) The car looks like a Austin-Healey TR-4 and a AC ACE...Or course all disclaimers apply (Darn it! I wish it was mine!) Cheers, Albert Escalante Central Coast British Car Club=Left Coast Check it out at: _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=130244476778_ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=130244476778) **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 ) From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 5 17:47:44 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 16:47:44 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Unique car In-Reply-To: Message-ID: That's SWALLOW, with a "w". Like the bird. Not "Sallow", as in bad complexion. Not "Shallow", as in lacking depth. Just had to clear that up... on 8/5/08 4:38 PM, Aeseeyou at aol.com at Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > HO.. > A friend of mine has a very nice Uniquely American British hybrid known as > a 1954 Sallow -Dorretti for sale on eBay I've driven it and it is really a > nice car..Unfortunately I'm sure it'll go for at least $25-$30K possibly more > since it is probably one of the nicest Dorretti's still around (only 273 were > ever built) The car looks like a Austin-Healey TR-4 and a AC ACE...Or course > all disclaimers apply (Darn it! I wish it was mine!) > Cheers, > Albert Escalante Central Coast British Car Club=Left Coast > Check it out at: > _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=130244476778_ > (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=130244476778) > > > > > **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? > Read reviews on AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0005000000001 > 7 ) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as max_heim at sbcglobal.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From Aeseeyou at aol.com Tue Aug 5 18:31:04 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 20:31:04 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Unique car Message-ID: Max... I thought it looked sort of funny (the spelling that is...) Also I hope nobody thinks I meant to say it looks like an "Austin-Healey TR4 AC Ace" Actually the Swallow Coachbuilding Company were a pretty active little concern in the 1930's and 40's...An American named Arthur Anderson and his daughter the beautiful California Blond by the name of Dorothy Deen (who passed away just recently) flew over to England and Dorothy Deen and Arthur Anderson made contacts and met a fellow named Frank Rainbow who'd recently designed a svelte body that he wanted to see produced into a sports car along the lines of the Jaguar XK120...Along the way they contacted Triumph Standard and made a deal to market the entire Triumph -Standard motorcar line in the US..If they could also sell their little dream car The Swallow-Dorretti. Alas after seeing that the Swallow Dorretti could cause them to lose potential customers in the USA, Jaguar who had a contract with Swallow-Doretti told the little Coach Builder that if they didn't stop building the neat Swallow-Dorretti bodies for Anderson and Dorothy Deen....Well, lets say Jaguar was apt to put the coach builder out of business and for sure they would stop doing any business with Swallow Coachworks, et al! Needless to say production stopped immediately....The Bodies that hadn't been mated to engines and drive trains were sold to Monks Garage at Monksplath...See more about this anomaly of the early 1950's by going to. _http://www.doretti.co.uk/_ (http://www.doretti.co.uk/) Albert Escalante CCBCC=Left Coast **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 ) From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 5 18:47:38 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 17:47:38 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Unique car In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Oh, and thanks for posting the link. It is a cute little car -- definitely a different take on the TR shape. The name "Doretti" makes it sound like it had some kind of Italian connection, but it is just pidgin-Italian for "Dorothy"... The car was named after her. on 8/5/08 5:31 PM, Aeseeyou at aol.com at Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > Max... > I thought it looked sort of funny (the spelling that is...) Also I hope > nobody thinks I meant to say it looks like an "Austin-Healey TR4 AC Ace" > Actually the Swallow Coachbuilding Company were a pretty active little > concern in the 1930's and 40's...An American named Arthur Anderson and his > daughter the beautiful California Blond by the name of Dorothy Deen (who > passed away > just recently) flew over to England and Dorothy Deen and Arthur Anderson > made contacts and met a fellow named Frank Rainbow who'd recently designed a > svelte body that he wanted to see produced into a sports car along the lines > of > the Jaguar XK120...Along the way they contacted Triumph Standard and made a > deal to market the entire Triumph -Standard motorcar line in the US..If they > could also sell their little dream car The Swallow-Dorretti. > Alas after seeing that the Swallow Dorretti could cause them to lose > potential customers in the USA, Jaguar who had a contract with > Swallow-Doretti told > the little Coach Builder that if they didn't stop building the neat > Swallow-Dorretti bodies for Anderson and Dorothy Deen....Well, lets say > Jaguar was > apt to put the coach builder out of business and for sure they would stop > doing > any business with Swallow Coachworks, et al! Needless to say production > stopped immediately....The Bodies that hadn't been mated to engines and drive > trains were sold to Monks Garage at Monksplath...See more about this anomaly > of > the early 1950's by going to. _http://www.doretti.co.uk/_ > (http://www.doretti.co.uk/) > Albert Escalante CCBCC=Left Coast > -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From WSpohn4 at aol.com Tue Aug 5 19:04:38 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 21:04:38 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Unique car Message-ID: In a message dated 05/08/2008 4:38:32 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, Aeseeyou at aol.com writes: A friend of mine has a very nice Uniquely American British hybrid known as a 1954 Sallow -Dorretti for sale on eBay Yup, I used to own one of these. Contemporary with, but built better than, the Triumpg TR-2 (which I also owned). Bill S. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Aug 5 19:07:01 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 18:07:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Latest work Message-ID: <894481.55384.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Paul, it's actually the hose from the block to the filter - there's no oil cooler on the '76. But yeah, it DOES seem to be more in the way than on my old engine. I just looked at an old picture, on my old engine it was routed down below the dizzy and up to the filter, not above the dizzy and down to the filter. Same length hose, though. I took your (and Kelvin's) advice on the distributor clamp. Worked out well for me, thanks. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Root To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com Cc: MG List Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 2:36:24 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Latest work I'm surprised about the dizzy, Dan. But that picture sure looks like the oil hose to the oil cooler is in the way. It must be shorter than stock. There is the clamp on the top of the dizzy bracket, you could loosen that and remove that way. But as long as the dizzy shaft is ok, points will be fine. Paul. On Aug 5, 2008, at 12:04 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > So I don't repeat myself - http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > > ;-) > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer Project > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From Aeseeyou at aol.com Tue Aug 5 23:10:53 2008 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 01:10:53 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Unique car Message-ID: The name "Doretti" was a play on Dorothy Deen's first name Dorothy and her Dad were two of the real boosters and advocates of the post war British sportscar craze. GI's who'd caught the "bug" and brought it home with them even to the point of importing the first of the many thousands and thousands of British and European sportscars realized something we all are quite aware of...the little buggers need to be worked on constantly or they would develop major problems. Arthur Anderson and his daughter who was smart as well as beautiful soon saw a niche that they could fill and possibly even make a ton of money selling parts to owners of sports cars. Dorothy Deen soon started a parts company and became one of the very first of the replacement and add on parts companies to begin selling parts and making custom add on speciality items . Dorothy wanted a more exotic sounding name to fit the needs of enthusiast's everywhere, especially the area west of the Mississippi. The Cal Specialities started to pop up to feed the need of a fast growing sport and hobby.. The Cal Specialities Company began to manufacture and sell a line of accessories with the Italian sounding "Doretti" brand name. supposedly they sold the copyright to the name for $1.00! The company, operated by Dorothy Deen and Paul Bernhart, sold products such as luggage racks, aluminum valve covers, wind wings and sun visors to local dealers who retailed these popular items to sports car enthusiasts..things were much simpler back in 1952-56... The 1952 MG Arnolt (Why was he called "Whacky?") was another perfect example of cars that should have been huge success's BUT....? Albert Escalante CCBCC-way out West... **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 ) From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 05:27:44 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 04:27:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back from the void Message-ID: <908279.90949.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Welcome back, Barrie! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 6:26:20 PM Subject: [Mgs] Back from the void Gentlemen, For the past few weeks (maybe months!) I have not been receiving emails from the list so I might have missed things. Some little gremlin somehow cut me off from the list and all the associated help addresses. After tons of attempts to restore things and in desperation I called Mark Bradakis and explained my problem and also asked for an Aston Martin list. The Aston Martin list came up fast and now a few days later I am up on the list. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 05:29:03 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 04:29:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] A little progress Message-ID: <555460.72695.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Good deal, Rick, I am hoping to be there shortly. Hopefully the rains will end for you today...... Been an interesting hurricane season for you so far. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Rick Lindsay To: MGS ; tr3a ; IPOG ; ferrari Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 6:16:04 PM Subject: [Mgs] A little progress Hello Friends, After a long hiatus, I made a little progress today on my MGB restoration. That work will echo down through the other projects. So here's the story. Today, I got the right-rear brakes rebuilt on my '70 MGB. That was the last corner. I'm now ready to bleed the brakes, loosen the handbrake adjustment so I can reconnect the handbrake cable, and finally, remount the wheels. Once the wheels are back on I can drive it again and get it out of the garage. I'll be able to drive it and store it anywhere I please. With the MG out, the '61 Mercedes 180b Ponton will go into the garage. It's ready for a driver-status restoration, a little at a time. And in between the Ponton projects, the interior of the Ferrari still needs completion. Aaaa, the fun of car projects!!! rick You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 06:50:45 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 05:50:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Moving Along.... Message-ID: <785206.13409.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have to finish this up soon as I am running out of ways to say 'More progress'.....! http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ Perhaps tongith will be the night when I finish all of the hook-ups. I really only have to finish the carb stuff, reinstall the radiator and shroud, reinstall the valve cover and hook up a few misc hoses, and I should be ready to try and crank it over. Still need to bleed the brakes to get it road-worthy. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Aug 6 07:44:54 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 23:14:54 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Back from the void In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4899AAD6.7000302@erickson.on.net> Barrie Robinson wrote: > Gentlemen, > > For the past few weeks (maybe months!) I have not been receiving > emails from the list Welcome back into the light! Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From bobmgtd at comcast.net Wed Aug 6 09:09:40 2008 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:09:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400><001a01c8f67f$76ca5470$4bfc3ad0@recroom> Message-ID: <000d01c8f7d6$74a65920$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Is gas stabilizer the answer? If gas stabilizer really works, for how long???? Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Monte/Jane Morris" To: "Ken Beck" Cc: ; "MG List" ; "Ron Fine" Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 9:16 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas > Ken, > I had a new Honda emergency generator that had set for a year between > starts. It wouldn't fire up, so I took it back to the dealer to see what > was wrong. The mechanic said he took some of the gas out and through it on > the garage floor and attempted to light it; no luck. New gas and it fired > right up. > Monte > > On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 6:14 PM, Ken Beck wrote: > >> Gas over 1 year old can cause real problems. 8 years old could be a >> disaster. Call around to disposal businesses and find one that disposes >> old >> oil, antifreeze etc. Whatever you do don't put it in an engine that you >> care >> about. I've had about 6 of these to redo in the past few years. Sticks >> the >> intake valves and then the rest goes. >> >> Ken BEck >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Ron Fine" >> To: "MG List" ; >> Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:51 AM >> Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas >> >> >> > When is gas too old to use? I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB >> > that >> > has been sitting for about 1 year. I am finishing the rebuild of the >> > engine >> > and plan to fire it up later this month. Should I dump the gas first >> > or >> > should it be OK. I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored >> > outside >> > during this period. >> > >> > Ron >> > 61 BN7 >> > 66 MGB From bobmgtd at comcast.net Wed Aug 6 09:18:31 2008 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:18:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] What is this British car? Message-ID: <001401c8f7d7$b016c250$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> In the PBS series "Poirot", what is the car Hastings drives? (Google provided no answers.) BTW, T-series MGs are occasionally spotted in the show. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 09:47:17 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 08:47:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] What is this British car? Message-ID: <982513.37469.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Bob, not having seen the show, I don't know what the car is or who Hastings is... But a search on IMCDB.org turns up this info for the show - http://www.imcdb.org/movie.php?id=94525 I'm sure it's there somewhere. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Bob Donahue To: mgs Cc: mg-t Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2008 11:18:31 AM Subject: [Mgs] What is this British car? In the PBS series "Poirot", what is the car Hastings drives? (Google provided no answers.) BTW, T-series MGs are occasionally spotted in the show. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Wed Aug 6 09:53:48 2008 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 08:53:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Radio question Message-ID: <10A486B572BA47F99F01904A0D8C3A7B@XPS400> I have purchased a period British Motor Corporation AM radio for my 66 MGB and I need to find out what size fuse I should use in the power line and what size or type of speaker to buy. Other than a few numbers, there is no other information on the case of the radio. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Ron 66MGB From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 6 10:42:01 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 09:42:01 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] What is this British car? In-Reply-To: <001401c8f7d7$b016c250$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: Oh yeah, I tried to figure that out once, many years ago, when they were first aired. I suppose I should check out the DVDs from the library and freeze-frame it to get a better look. Other lovely vintage motors can be seen in the Jeeves & Wooster series (Bertie drives an Aston Martin, I think), and the second incarnation of the Lord Peter Wimsey series (the early Ian Carmichael version didn't budget very many exterior scenes). on 8/6/08 8:18 AM, Bob Donahue at bobmgtd at comcast.net wrote: > In the PBS series "Poirot", what is the car Hastings drives? (Google provided > no answers.) BTW, T-series MGs are occasionally spotted in the show. > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From rolindsay at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 11:07:07 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 10:07:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] What is this British car? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46536.57263.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hastings drives a Lagonda. rick --- Max Heim wrote: > Oh yeah, I tried to figure that out once, many years > ago, when they were > first aired. I suppose I should check out the DVDs > from the library and > freeze-frame it to get a better look. > > Other lovely vintage motors can be seen in the > Jeeves & Wooster series > (Bertie drives an Aston Martin, I think), and the > second incarnation of the > Lord Peter Wimsey series (the early Ian Carmichael > version didn't budget > very many exterior scenes). > > > > on 8/6/08 8:18 AM, Bob Donahue at > bobmgtd at comcast.net wrote: > > > In the PBS series "Poirot", what is the car > Hastings drives? (Google provided > > no answers.) BTW, T-series MGs are occasionally > spotted in the show. > > > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > > Hoosier MGB Club > > Olde Octagons of Indiana > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From mgbob at juno.com Wed Aug 6 14:14:32 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 16:14:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas Message-ID: <20080806.163950.1648.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Bob, Perhaps a help, but by no means an answer to the problem. September 07 I filled my snowblower with fresh petrol with a little Stabil. Come April, thanks to very little snow during the winter, I drained the tank and then ran engine dry. It was stumbly and unhappy when it started. I then put in some April 08 gas, started it again, and it ran OK until carb was dry a second time. The TD, on the other hand, ran fine in the spring, having been filled about the same time as the blower, and the TD did not receive any Stabil. Seems to me that there may be two factors involved with ageing fuel, a loss of volatility and gumming. If my example is representative, one might conclude that the volatility loss did not bother the snowblower or theTD much (87 octane being plenty for the TD's low-compression engine anyway) and that gumming did not affect the .090 jets, but that gumming in the tiny carb passages of the snowblower was a problem. Bob On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:09:40 -0400 "Bob Donahue" writes: > Is gas stabilizer the answer? If gas stabilizer really works, for how > > long???? > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana ____________________________________________________________ Protect your personal wellbeing. Click now for powerful pepper sprays! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mQepNLtcIRAKlCeq8svsI22X8tlbJqbxJ9JYvI35waLwne1/ From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Wed Aug 6 14:56:27 2008 From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 16:56:27 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Radio question In-Reply-To: <10A486B572BA47F99F01904A0D8C3A7B@XPS400> Message-ID: I think the speaker size in the Mk 1 MGB was 5x7. We put a pair in my 68 Sprite and they sounded very nice. The memory might not be perfect after 35 years, however. Eric -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Fine Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 11:54 AM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] Radio question I have purchased a period British Motor Corporation AM radio for my 66 MGB and I need to find out what size fuse I should use in the power line and what size or type of speaker to buy. Other than a few numbers, there is no other information on the case of the radio. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Ron 66MGB You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.12/1595 - Release Date: 8/6/2008 8:23 AM From barrie at look.ca Wed Aug 6 14:59:42 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 16:59:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas In-Reply-To: <20080806.163950.1648.11.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080806.163950.1648.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: Bob, Is Stabil nothing more than rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol ???) ?? I know gas line anti-freeze is ethyl alcohol (that's why I pour single malt scotch into my tank during winter) At 04:14 PM 8/6/2008, Bob Howard wrote: >Bob, > Perhaps a help, but by no means an answer to the problem. > September 07 I filled my snowblower with fresh petrol with a little >Stabil. Come April, thanks to very little snow during the winter, I >drained the tank and then ran engine dry. It was stumbly and unhappy >when it started. I then put in some April 08 gas, started it again, and >it ran OK until carb was dry a second time. The TD, on the other hand, >ran fine in the spring, having been filled about the same time as the >blower, and the TD did not receive any Stabil. > Seems to me that there may be two factors involved with ageing fuel, a >loss of volatility and gumming. If my example is representative, one >might conclude that the volatility loss did not bother the snowblower or >theTD much (87 octane being plenty for the TD's low-compression engine >anyway) and that gumming did not affect the .090 jets, but that gumming >in the tiny carb passages of the snowblower was a problem. >Bob > > > >On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:09:40 -0400 "Bob Donahue" >writes: > > Is gas stabilizer the answer? If gas stabilizer really works, for how > > > > long???? > > > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > > Hoosier MGB Club > > Olde Octagons of Indiana >____________________________________________________________ >Protect your personal wellbeing. Click now for powerful pepper sprays! >http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mQepNLtcIRAKlCeq8svsI22X8tlbJqbxJ9JYvI35waLwne1/ >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 6 15:03:11 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 16:03:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas References: <20080806.163950.1648.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barrie Robinson" To: "Bob Howard" ; Cc: Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 3:59 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas Bob, Is Stabil nothing more than rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol ???) ?? I know gas line anti-freeze is ethyl alcohol (that's why I pour single malt scotch into my tank during winter) ============== I used to pour single malt Scotch into my tank even in the summer, but it made my car do stupid things and gave it a headache. Larry Daniels From macgroup at comcast.net Wed Aug 6 15:43:50 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 14:43:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Radio question In-Reply-To: <10A486B572BA47F99F01904A0D8C3A7B@XPS400> References: <10A486B572BA47F99F01904A0D8C3A7B@XPS400> Message-ID: <6344A19FCE3F4086A4C21CAA9D7B3E51@StusLaptopPC> Ron, What do you need a speaker for, It's just for looks, right? You are not actually going to use this radio, are you? ;-0 The speaker is 5x7, and you can find them on the net starting at $15. I bought a dual coaxial speaker to handle my cheapo stereo for about $50. Two speakers in one frame, concentric, and it works great. And, make sure the radio and car have the same ground! As for the fuse, my current Panasonic from the '80s calls for a 5 amp quick blow fuse. When my wife and I bought our '65 in 1969, we had the dealer put in an AM radio for no charge to close the deal for $1895. That's a whopping $11,178 in today's dollars. I can't believe we paid that much!!!! That radio lasted about a year, and then I put in an AM/FM radio. I still have that AM/FM pushbutton British Leyland radio from the '70's (state of the art!). You've prompted me to see if it still works! Stuart '65 MGB, finally running reliably after problems caused by a poor mechanic (me). -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 8:54 AM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] Radio question I have purchased a period British Motor Corporation AM radio for my 66 MGB and I need to find out what size fuse I should use in the power line and what size or type of speaker to buy. Other than a few numbers, there is no other information on the case of the radio. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Ron 66MGB Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Wed Aug 6 16:48:16 2008 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:48:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas In-Reply-To: References: <20080806.163950.1648.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <0B614118-6549-4C84-84CF-D4C6680F4AB7@tampabay.rr.com> What a terrible waste of single malt! For shame. Dave Houser On Aug 6, 2008, at 5:03 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Barrie Robinson" > To: "Bob Howard" ; > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 3:59 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas > > > Bob, > > Is Stabil nothing more than rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol ???) ?? > I know gas line anti-freeze is ethyl alcohol (that's why I pour > single malt scotch into my tank during winter) > > > ============== > > I used to pour single malt Scotch into my tank even in the summer, > but it > made my car do stupid things and gave it a headache. > > Larry Daniels > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Aug 6 17:29:56 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 19:29:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Update - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7, 2008 Message-ID: <11167335.1218065397138.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> NEW WEBSITE: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html LODGING ALTERNATIVES Dear British Motorhead, We have checked out the lodging situation in the Brisbane area for people who live far enough away to stay overnight for a night or two for a more relaxed weekend. Carole Burton, the official British meet travel agent, got us a DEAL at the Radisson Hotel, right in the Brisbane Marina! The Radisson is a very upscale, business type hotel with gourmet restaurant. We have special British Car Meet rate of $109 per day, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway, Brisbane, Phone 415-467-4400. Ask for the British Car Meet rates. More local North Bay lodging on our website: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html Best, Rick Feibusch 310-392-6605 Meet Coordinator - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - NEW WEBSITE: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008 The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at Sierra Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again gather in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is essentially the old Palo Alto British Meet in a new location. We are also expecting another great display of automotive oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for free. SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be handled by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their doors on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast Herb Gibson's Jazz Orchestra will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There is no preregistration. There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all entrants will receive a commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse (the same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea. Itbs no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them. We will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM. A detailed map will be provided. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon. DIRECTIONS: The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway (101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site. Call for information: 310-392-6605 e-mail: Brisbane Marina 2008 Website: http://www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html From macgroup at comcast.net Wed Aug 6 17:35:05 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 16:35:05 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Moving Along.... In-Reply-To: <785206.13409.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <785206.13409.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <87A38DCEA896407D8B42D2AD255B6212@StusLaptopPC> Dan wrote: "I have to finish this up soon as I am running out of ways to say 'More progress'.....!" You need to post a bar graph that goes from 0 to 100% so we can track the progress, just like for a charity drive. Actually, it's too late for that. Make it from 95% to 99.99 (it will never be 100%) and mark it out in .01% increments! It sounds like you are about at the 96.03% point. Good luck! Stuart P.S.: I'm going out to the shop now to pull the head on my daughter's GT, which I hope only has a blown head gasket. From rolindsay at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 18:22:55 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:22:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Small victories Message-ID: <193654.48316.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Gang, After more than a year in the garage, up on jack-stands, tonight I can claim that the MGB has brakes! There's light at the end of the tunnel. I just did a sucessful first pass bleeding the brake system. The brakes are new all around so it was rewarding to find no leaks and feel a nicely firm pedal. I now need to remount the wheels, check/adjust the tire pressures, get 'er down off the stands, reconnect the carb linkage, balance the SUs and go for a careful test drive or two or three. Yea, minimal content for the the non-MG lists but we need to share our successes - even the small ones. Regards, rick '08 M-B C300 '03 L-R Discovery '96 BMW 740iL '79 Ferrari 308GTB '70 MGB Tourer '61 M-B 180b From barneymg at mgaguru.com Wed Aug 6 18:26:08 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 19:26:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Radio question In-Reply-To: <10A486B572BA47F99F01904A0D8C3A7B@XPS400> References: <10A486B572BA47F99F01904A0D8C3A7B@XPS400> Message-ID: <20080807002555.EA9EA18766D@autox.team.net> At 08:53 AM 8/6/2008 -0700, Ron Fine wrote: >I have purchased a period British Motor Corporation AM radio for my >66 MGB and I need to find out what size fuse I should use in the power line 10 amp fuse is enough. Old radios only use 4 or 5 amps without any external amplilfier. >and what size or type of speaker to buy. .... Nothing too large. Anything more than 25 watts is a waste, as the radio doesn't have that much power output. 8-ohms impedence is about right. 4-ohms is only for modern setups with high current to the speakers. From macgroup at comcast.net Wed Aug 6 19:34:03 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:34:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice Message-ID: <0DD2948E7A4F490095B098E6F12FE71D@StusLaptopPC> Well, I pulled the head on my daughter's '70 GT, and found the blown head gasket that I figured was the problem. It was completely gone between 1 & 2 (where coolant entered #2), and leaking between 2 & 3 This engine only has 15k on it after a "professional" rebuild. There is enough erosion between 1 & 2 that the head needs to be surfaced, but the block has only a small amount of surface roughness. Do you think I can get by with a light sanding with 200 grit on the block and the head gasket will seal okay? I really don't want to pull this engine to mill the block. There is some slight corrosion in the #2 cylinder, but 200 grit smoothed it out. It's .030 over now, and I'd probably have to re-sleeve or junk it. Any recommendations on head gaskets, head gasket sealants, etc. that can seal a slightly worn block? TIA, Stuart From barneymg at mgaguru.com Wed Aug 6 19:44:25 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 20:44:25 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice In-Reply-To: <0DD2948E7A4F490095B098E6F12FE71D@StusLaptopPC> References: <0DD2948E7A4F490095B098E6F12FE71D@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <20080807014411.CDB64187646@autox.team.net> At 06:34 PM 8/6/2008 -0700, Stuart MacMillan wrote: >.... found the blown head gasket .... There is enough erosion >between 1 & 2 that the head needs to be surfaced, but the block has >only a small amount of surface roughness. > >Do you think I can get by with a light sanding with 200 grit on the block Remove all head studs, and run an 8-inch whet stome over it with light oil. If you can manage to stone it flat by hand it should be okay. Do NOT take sand paper to it in a local spot, as it may end up with a divot that could make the next head gasket leak. >.... There is some slight corrosion in the #2 cylinder, but 200 grit >smoothed it out. 200 grit? Are you sure you didn't drop a zero? If you leave sanding scratches in the cylinder wall it will burn oil like crazy, >It's .030 over now, and I'd probably have to re-sleeve or junk it. Pistons are available for +.060 overbore (cheaper than sleeving). From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 19:58:21 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:58:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Moving Along.... Message-ID: <49244.30155.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Well, good news and bad news tonight. I finished hooking up everything - throttle cable, the radiator and the various hoses and wires. Decided to see if it would start, while up on the jackstands. Still need to bleed the brakes so didn't want to be tempted to jump in and go around the block if it started.... ;-) I needn't have worried - I hooked up the battery and hooked it to the family van. Soon as I did that I noticed that the parking lights are all on - so something is crossed somewhere. Turned the key and the fuel pump started clicking away! Took about 3 minutes of solid clicking to fill the fuel filter - and then another minute for me to notice the growing puddle of gas on the floor! The carb is leaking from the float chamber plug, which is irritating because I had the same issue 2 years ago and replaced the gasket. Guess it dried out again. I also have a seep from the fuel line where it comes up the bulkhead next to the pedal box. So I guess I am going to remove the carb and have it rebuilt. I have vacation coming up so I won't be doing anything on the car for a while anyways. I'm happy to be at this point (I guess about 98.763%, Stuart!) but kinda bummed that I could not get it going yet. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Stuart MacMillan To: Dan DiBiase ; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2008 7:35:05 PM Subject: RE: [Mgs] Moving Along.... Dan wrote: "I have to finish this up soon as I am running out of ways to say 'More progress'.....!" You need to post a bar graph that goes from 0 to 100% so we can track the progress, just like for a charity drive. Actually, it's too late for that. Make it from 95% to 99.99 (it will never be 100%) and mark it out in .01% increments! It sounds like you are about at the 96.03% point. Good luck! Stuart P.S.: I'm going out to the shop now to pull the head on my daughter's GT, which I hope only has a blown head gasket. From rolindsay at yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 20:12:24 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 19:12:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Moving Along.... In-Reply-To: <49244.30155.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <467368.62924.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Dan, Get the leaks in the lines fixed then lets talk about the leaking carb. Many times leaks there are just flooding bowls. You didn't perchance install an aftermarket fuel pump did you? Many of the aftermarket electric pumps are too strong for our old carbs. The pressure forces the float bowl valve open and flooding occurs. rick --- Dan DiBiase wrote: > Well, good news and bad news tonight. I finished > hooking up everything - throttle cable, the radiator > and the various hoses > and wires. Decided to see if it would start, while > up on the jackstands. Still need to bleed the brakes > so didn't want to be > tempted to jump in and go around the block if it > started.... ;-) > > I needn't have worried - I hooked up the battery and > hooked it to the family van. Soon as I did that I > noticed that the parking > lights are all on - so something is crossed > somewhere. Turned the key and the fuel pump started > clicking away! Took about > 3 minutes of solid clicking to fill the fuel filter > - and then another minute for me to notice the > growing puddle of gas on the floor! > The carb is leaking from the float chamber plug, > which is irritating because I had the same issue 2 > years ago and replaced the > gasket. Guess it dried out again. I also have a seep > from the fuel line where it comes up the bulkhead > next to the pedal box. > > So I guess I am going to remove the carb and have it > rebuilt. I have vacation coming up so I won't be > doing anything on the car > for a while anyways. > > I'm happy to be at this point (I guess about > 98.763%, Stuart!) but kinda bummed that I could not > get it going yet. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Stuart MacMillan > To: Dan DiBiase ; > mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com; MG List > Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2008 7:35:05 PM > Subject: RE: [Mgs] Moving Along.... > > Dan wrote: > > "I have to finish this up soon as I am running out > of ways to say 'More > progress'.....!" > > You need to post a bar graph that goes from 0 to > 100% so we can track the > progress, just like for a charity drive. Actually, > it's too late for that. > Make it from 95% to 99.99 (it will never be 100%) > and mark it out in .01% > increments! It sounds like you are about at the > 96.03% point. Good luck! > > Stuart > > P.S.: I'm going out to the shop now to pull the head > on my daughter's GT, > which I hope only has a blown head gasket. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From fisher at hctc.net Wed Aug 6 21:40:27 2008 From: fisher at hctc.net (Fisher or Elizabeth Jones) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 22:40:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Auto rummage sale Message-ID: Just a heads-up for those of you who might be interested. Following the heart attack which Fisher suffered at the end of June, his general condition has worsened. Doug Doidge, a long-time friend of Fisher's, and a CVAR racer, has very kindly offered to help me to divest myself of the balance of the 'collection' of Fisher's auto parts etc. I am almost entirely absorbed in caring for Fisher, but Doug has offered to make himself available, and another friend may also be here. Doug has posted the following message on the CVAR mailing list:- GARAGE/YARD/RUMMAGE SALE OF IMPORT CARS AND PARTS August 16-17, near Comfort, Texas, 8AM to 5PM. Sprite, Midget, MGB, Triumph, Jaguar, BMW, etc. Bodies, engines, transmissions, rear-ends, etc. Bring your trucks, trailers, tools (we have no loaners), and some help for loading. Everything goes at 10 cents per lb. - if you don't buy it, the recycler will! Contact me for directions to the location. Douglas Doidge I have not had any time to care for the property, so the grass is tall, and the weeds are taller. It will be hot, dirty, thirsty work. I would really like to get rid of everything, so then at least I may be able to get someone in to tidy the place up a bit, and have somewhere to house the cars that I want to keep. Please be aware that most of these items have been here for some time, some under cover, some not - none of the body parts have been undercover, for instance. The pole barn is piled high with an assortment of pieces, to include various blocks in indeterminate condition. There are used transmissions galore, again, condition unknown. If any of it might be of use to you, you might consider coming to have a look. elizabeth _________________________________________________________________ Fisher or Elizabeth Jones "A gentleman does not motor about after dark." Joseph Lucas 1920 From mgbob at juno.com Thu Aug 7 06:11:41 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 08:11:41 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] Old Gas Message-ID: <20080807.081656.2940.1.MGBOB@juno.com> Barrie, I believe it is a different brew. Seems to be more viscous and lacks the sharp odor of alcohol. A check of Google for Stabil brought up the company site, on which they say it's a "blend of scientific additives" (peculiar syntax). Though I sounded sceptical of the stuff in the note I wrote earlier, on balance I believe it's worthwhile and have used it for years. Single malt Scotch does work well in my fuel system; have used it for years also. Bob On Wed, 06 Aug 2008 16:59:42 -0400 Barrie Robinson writes: > Bob, > > Is Stabil nothing more than rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol ???) > ?? > I know gas line anti-freeze is ethyl alcohol (that's why I pour > single malt scotch into my tank during winter) > ____________________________________________________________ Click for information on obtaining a VA loan. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3mWLQXYKzLcpCcIu4snQw6i8ZCFu5bVIHSaxA672frJgOZ/ From rolindsay at yahoo.com Thu Aug 7 07:01:23 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 06:01:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Moving Along.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <185627.55093.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Dan, Ed just reminded me that you have the single Z-S carb rather than twin SUs. My error. And that, as Ed says, changes everything. My only experience with Z-S carbs is a Jag XJ-6 and a late model Midget, leading me to claim that the best repair for the Z-S carb is to toss it into the trash can - followed by placing an order to Pierce Manifold (or similar) for a Weber DGV conversion. Of course, you could go for an SU retrofit... Just one guy's opinion. rick From barrie at look.ca Thu Aug 7 09:23:00 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 11:23:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] What's in a G Message-ID: I had occasion to chat to my local Brit car garage. He asked for my VIN number. When I gave it to him he said that he rarely saw VIN numbers ending with"G" as mine did. What does the "G" signify? Thank you in advance for your erudite responses - as well as the hilarious - and yes. the reference to the "G" spot has already been realised! Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Aug 7 10:07:37 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 09:07:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Moving Along.... Message-ID: <248931.88713.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> That's the opinion of many, Rick...! But not really a direction I want to go with this car at the moment. The Z-S carb never gave me any trouble up until the point where I started having these other issues. I think it's just piling on..... ;-) Joe Curto quoted me $250 and 6-8 weeks time to rebuild it - and wouldn't guarantee that the water choke would work afterwards. So I think I am going to fix what needs fixing and go from there. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Rick Lindsay To: MGS Sent: Thursday, August 7, 2008 9:01:23 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moving Along.... Dan, Ed just reminded me that you have the single Z-S carb rather than twin SUs. My error. And that, as Ed says, changes everything. My only experience with Z-S carbs is a Jag XJ-6 and a late model Midget, leading me to claim that the best repair for the Z-S carb is to toss it into the trash can - followed by placing an order to Pierce Manifold (or similar) for a Weber DGV conversion. Of course, you could go for an SU retrofit... Just one guy's opinion. rick From guinness at stclegal.com Thu Aug 7 10:49:46 2008 From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 11:49:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Siting in TV Commercial Message-ID: <489B27AA.3070404@stclegal.com> While ignoring the TV show my son was watching, I caught out of the corner of my eye a commercial in which a young women was tearing apart the upholstery of what I believe was a MGB convertible. I don't know the product being advertised. Has anyone seen this commercial or know where I could view it on the Internet? Was I seeing things? -- Robert Guinness St. Louis, MO From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 7 10:59:01 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 11:59:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Siting in TV Commercial References: <489B27AA.3070404@stclegal.com> Message-ID: <000701c8f8ae$e8aaba40$6415a8c0@garage.local> it was an mg. she was using her teeth to tear it apart. i forget now what the product was. maybe that fresh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert J. Guinness" To: "MG List" Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:49 AM Subject: [Mgs] MGB Siting in TV Commercial > While ignoring the TV show my son was watching, I caught out of the > corner of my eye a commercial in which a young women was tearing apart > the upholstery of what I believe was a MGB convertible. I don't know > the product being advertised. Has anyone seen this commercial or know > where I could view it on the Internet? Was I seeing things? > -- > Robert Guinness > St. Louis, MO From craigw at sonic.net Thu Aug 7 11:01:28 2008 From: craigw at sonic.net (craigw at sonic.net) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 10:01:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Siting in TV Commercial Message-ID: <16983.1218128488@sonic.net> It's a commercial for Orbit gum. Yes. It's a nice looking MGB. Craig Wiper On Thu 07/08/08 9:59 AM , "Oliver" sumton at sbcglobal.net sent: it was an mg. she was using her teeth to tear it apart. i forget now what the product was. maybe that fresh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert J. Guinness" To: "MG List" Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:49 AM Subject: [Mgs] MGB Siting in TV Commercial > While ignoring the TV show my son was watching, I caught out of the > corner of my eye a commercial in which a young women was tearing apart > the upholstery of what I believe was a MGB convertible. I don't know > the product being advertised. Has anyone seen this commercial or know > where I could view it on the Internet? Was I seeing things? > -- > Robert Guinness > St. Louis, MO _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From mjanacek at snet.net Thu Aug 7 12:36:15 2008 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 14:36:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Siting in TV Commercial In-Reply-To: <489B27AA.3070404@stclegal.com> References: <489B27AA.3070404@stclegal.com> Message-ID: <489B409F.9050707@snet.net> In case you missed it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ0MC0pkrao Mike '79B Robert J. Guinness wrote: > While ignoring the TV show my son was watching, I caught out of the > corner of my eye a commercial in which a young women was tearing apart > the upholstery of what I believe was a MGB convertible. I don't know > the product being advertised. Has anyone seen this commercial or know > where I could view it on the Internet? Was I seeing things? From twobees at sprynet.com Thu Aug 7 12:39:47 2008 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm 2Bs) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 14:39:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice Message-ID: <002201c8f8bc$f822a7e0$7a451645@normoffice> Barney has the right idea. I once had a problem with leaking head gaskets on the B. I took a couple foot long section of old solid-surface countertop from a demolished kitchen, glued pieces of emery paper to it & spent some time sliding the head back & forth until it all showed abrasion. That meant it was FLAT. After that, no more gasket leaks. Norm Sippel From rocknatural at gmail.com Thu Aug 7 13:20:30 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 14:20:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Siting in TV Commercial In-Reply-To: <489B409F.9050707@snet.net> References: <489B27AA.3070404@stclegal.com> <489B409F.9050707@snet.net> Message-ID: <489B4AFE.20705@gmail.com> Mike Janacek wrote: > In case you missed it: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ0MC0pkrao That's hilarious! Thanks! -The Roxter -- From rocknatural at gmail.com Thu Aug 7 13:59:33 2008 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 14:59:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Moving Along.... In-Reply-To: <467368.62924.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <467368.62924.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <489B5425.6050803@gmail.com> Rick Lindsay wrote: > Hey Dan, > > Get the leaks in the lines fixed then lets talk about > the leaking carb. Many times leaks there are just > flooding bowls. You didn't perchance install an > aftermarket fuel pump did you? Many of the > aftermarket electric pumps are too strong for our old > carbs. The pressure forces the float bowl valve open > and flooding occurs. I had this issue with the Cooper S some years ago. I had installed the aftermarket fuel pump, designated as "carb" rather that "fuel injection" pump. All would be well until I got up to speed on the motorway, then the vibration of the road and the engine would allow the pump to overpower the float chamber needle valve. I added a fuel-pressure regulator to the system ($20) and all became well. I set it at the lowest setting and took it up to speed and there was no fuel starvation and no more flooding. -The Roxter -- From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 7 14:10:29 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 13:10:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] What's in a G In-Reply-To: Message-ID: It's probably a 6 that someone at the DMV misread as a G. The registration for my other car contained a single-digit error for 22 years before I caught it. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/7/08 8:23 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote: > I had occasion to chat to my local Brit car garage. He asked for my > VIN number. When I gave it to him he said that he rarely saw VIN > numbers ending with"G" as mine did. > > What does the "G" signify? > > Thank you in advance for your erudite responses - as well as the > hilarious - and yes. the reference to the "G" spot has already been realised! > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > http://www.britcot.com From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 7 15:39:31 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:39:31 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] What's in a G In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> You must be driving a 1976 thru 11/78 MG Midget, Barrie!!! Really, that WAS how they where numbered; trailing 'G'. Ed From barrie at look.ca Thu Aug 7 15:34:03 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 17:34:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] What's in a G In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Max, My paperwork says GHDS (S should be 5) UA 1933394G. So I have the required six digits - I see that following models used "G" as a 'made in Abingdon' indicator - so maybe someone got premature?? At 04:10 PM 8/7/2008, Max Heim wrote: >It's probably a 6 that someone at the DMV misread as a G. > >The registration for my other car contained a single-digit error for 22 >years before I caught it. > > >-- > >Max Heim >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >If you're near Mountain View, CA, >it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > >on 8/7/08 8:23 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote: > > > I had occasion to chat to my local Brit car garage. He asked for my > > VIN number. When I gave it to him he said that he rarely saw VIN > > numbers ending with"G" as mine did. > > > > What does the "G" signify? > > > > Thank you in advance for your erudite responses - as well as the > > hilarious - and yes. the reference to the "G" spot has already > been realised! > > > > Regards > > Barrie > > > > Barrie Robinson > > (705) 721-9060 > > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > > http://www.britcot.com >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From kgrowler at aol.com Thu Aug 7 16:41:46 2008 From: kgrowler at aol.com (kgrowler at aol.com) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 18:41:46 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] What's in a G Message-ID: <8CAC6F5E86C4145-DFC-BAF@webmail-dd03.sysops.aol.com> <<>> G is the BMC/BL code for the mG plant at Abingdon.B It indicates that was where the car was built. It's what lead to the Abingdon plant being nicknamed 'the G'. Kim Tonry Downers Grove, Illinois, U.S.A. From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Thu Aug 7 16:55:26 2008 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 00:55:26 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] What's in a G In-Reply-To: Message-ID: What does the "G" signify? I think Abingdon built, but others might know better .... Eric Heinsberg/Germany www.brits-n-pieces.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 8 03:02:34 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 10:02:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] What's in a G References: Message-ID: <01f101c8f939$10e71190$0200a8c0@Three> GHD5 was used from late 69 to late 79, the final G denoting Abingdon build was used from 1967, so is correct. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- My paperwork says GHDS (S should be 5) UA 1933394G. So I have the required six digits - I see that following models used "G" as a 'made in Abingdon' indicator - so maybe someone got premature?? From gone2ddogs at yahoo.com Fri Aug 8 13:55:08 2008 From: gone2ddogs at yahoo.com (john ross) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 12:55:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice Message-ID: <338581.51339.qm@web51511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'm my experience rebuilding MGB engines I had a few that blew head gaskets soon after being rebuilt. The main problem as that after a few times having the head and or block resurfaced the compression ratio of the engine keeps increasing combined with the old mild steel studs you get leaks. You need to get the block and head flat again then change the studs. I prefer the ARP chromoly stud kit and have run race engines at 13to1 compression without blowing the gasket. Any ARP bolt dealer/performance car shop can order the kit. I did try grade 8 bolts torqued to 60ft lbs once on the recommendation of my father (an aerospace engineer) and although grade 8 bolts do real well in tension they are very brittle in shear and I used to break quite a few while torquing them. New studs, flat head/block and you should be okay. I've used permatex 300 brushed in the gasket to help seal questionable blocks with good success. It does make the engine harder to clean up next time you do a tear down. good luck John ----- Original Message ---- From: Stuart MacMillan To: MG List Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2008 7:34:03 PM Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice Well, I pulled the head on my daughter's '70 GT, and found the blown head gasket that I figured was the problem. It was completely gone between 1 & 2 (where coolant entered #2), and leaking between 2 & 3 This engine only has 15k on it after a "professional" rebuild. There is enough erosion between 1 & 2 that the head needs to be surfaced, but the block has only a small amount of surface roughness. Do you think I can get by with a light sanding with 200 grit on the block and the head gasket will seal okay? I really don't want to pull this engine to mill the block. There is some slight corrosion in the #2 cylinder, but 200 grit smoothed it out. It's .030 over now, and I'd probably have to re-sleeve or junk it. Any recommendations on head gaskets, head gasket sealants, etc. that can seal a slightly worn block? TIA, Stuart _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as gone2ddogs at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From difejo at frontiernet.net Fri Aug 8 14:01:14 2008 From: difejo at frontiernet.net (John DiFede) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 16:01:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Pace Setter Monza Exhaust System Message-ID: <000001c8f991$836afc60$02fea8c0@GATEWAY> Hello all, I haven't posted to this list in quite a while. Lately, I have been lurking on the digest version, until today. Does any one have any experience with the MONZA exhaust manufactured by Pace Setter. It appears to be a copy of the ANSA design from long ago. A friend has offered one to me and I am considering purchasing it. My MGB is a 1973 with a rear Spax Tube Shock conversion. I recall that my stock exhaust system leaves very little clearance between the right side lower shock mount and the exhaust pipe. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. John 1973 MGB From cyberemp at comcast.net Fri Aug 8 17:30:04 2008 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 23:30:04 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? Message-ID: <080820082330.22095.489CD6FC000186760000564F22155538949F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Greetings my wise, illustrious and esteemed fellow Mg owners!! I'm considering the transplant of a V8 in one of my Mgs someday in a brighter, more financially stable future. I've noted that some of you have MGB V8s with wire wheels. The Book on the subject, "how to give your MG V8 power" seems to skirt the issue, with a brief note about shredding splines off the w.w. hub. I'm curious to know the real world fixes for any possible consequence of "enthusiastic" driving with all that torque. Can there be studs to lock the wheel and hub together to prevent the hub from spinning faster than the wheel, as the twin cam wheels have? (though I think theirs is for braking purposes. And yea, I know the twin cam has steel wheels with knock offs) Who can shed light on this mystery? T.I.A. for any help and enlightenment you may offer. Eric 59 MGA 65 MGB 70 MGB 71 MGB 74 F-250 needing motor. 74.5 MGB 00 Nissan X-Terra Soon to be sold to finance F-250 motor repair. So many cars, so little parking From doddk at mossmotors.com Fri Aug 8 17:42:46 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 16:42:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? In-Reply-To: <080820082330.22095.489CD6FC000186760000564F22155538949F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E602E85@kb1.mossmotors.com> Eric: Ferrari and the AC Cobra used the same spline design and size as the MGB. If both the wheel and the spline drive are in good condition, there isn't any problem with shredding splines. The wheels have to be sized appropriately though, I'd suggest using either the 70 spoke or 72 spoke competition style wheels. They will work fine for any kind of road use with a streetable motor. If you are planning on a 400 HP big block, then it would probably not be such a good idea. Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of cyberemp at comcast.net > Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 4:30 PM > To: MG LIST > Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? > > Greetings my wise, illustrious and esteemed fellow Mg owners!! > I'm considering the transplant of a V8 in one of my Mgs > someday in a brighter, more financially stable future. > I've noted that some of you have MGB V8s with wire wheels. > The Book on the subject, "how to give your MG V8 power" seems > to skirt the issue, with a brief note about shredding splines > off the w.w. hub. > I'm curious to know the real world fixes for any possible > consequence of "enthusiastic" driving with all that torque. > Can there be studs to lock the wheel and hub together to > prevent the hub from spinning faster than the wheel, as the > twin cam wheels have? (though I think theirs is for braking > purposes. And yea, I know the twin cam has steel wheels with > knock offs) > Who can shed light on this mystery? > T.I.A. for any help and enlightenment you may offer. > Eric > > > > > 59 MGA > 65 MGB > 70 MGB > 71 MGB > 74 F-250 needing motor. > 74.5 MGB > 00 Nissan X-Terra Soon to be sold to finance F-250 motor repair. > So many cars, so little parking > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as doddk at mossmotors.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From cyberemp at comcast.net Fri Aug 8 17:55:30 2008 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 23:55:30 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? Message-ID: <080820082355.16354.489CDCF20007F09000003FE222155538949F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Kelvin -thanks for the good adivce and information No, I was thinking around 200 hp. I used to have a 300zx twin turbo. Just took a few moments of poor judgement and a tree lunging in front of me to change my life forever. Moderation! Eric -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Dodd, Kelvin" > Eric: > > Ferrari and the AC Cobra used the same spline design and size as the > MGB. > > > If both the wheel and the spline drive are in good condition, there > isn't any problem with shredding splines. The wheels have to be sized > appropriately though, I'd suggest using either the 70 spoke or 72 spoke > competition style wheels. They will work fine for any kind of road use > with a streetable motor. > > If you are planning on a 400 HP big block, then it would probably not be > such a good idea. > > > > Kelvin. > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > > Behalf Of cyberemp at comcast.net > > Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 4:30 PM > > To: MG LIST > > Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? > > > > Greetings my wise, illustrious and esteemed fellow Mg owners!! > > I'm considering the transplant of a V8 in one of my Mgs > > someday in a brighter, more financially stable future. > > I've noted that some of you have MGB V8s with wire wheels. > > The Book on the subject, "how to give your MG V8 power" seems > > to skirt the issue, with a brief note about shredding splines > > off the w.w. hub. > > I'm curious to know the real world fixes for any possible > > consequence of "enthusiastic" driving with all that torque. > > Can there be studs to lock the wheel and hub together to > > prevent the hub from spinning faster than the wheel, as the > > twin cam wheels have? (though I think theirs is for braking > > purposes. And yea, I know the twin cam has steel wheels with > > knock offs) > > Who can shed light on this mystery? > > T.I.A. for any help and enlightenment you may offer. > > Eric > > > > > > > > > > 59 MGA > > 65 MGB > > 70 MGB > > 71 MGB > > 74 F-250 needing motor. > > 74.5 MGB > > 00 Nissan X-Terra Soon to be sold to finance F-250 motor repair. > > So many cars, so little parking > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > You are subscribed as doddk at mossmotors.com > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > http://www.team.net/archive From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 8 18:10:07 2008 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 19:10:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? In-Reply-To: <080820082330.22095.489CD6FC000186760000564F22155538949F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> References: <080820082330.22095.489CD6FC000186760000564F22155538949F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <489CE05F.8050104@sbcglobal.net> Morgan +8s use the same hub and spline size. Don't try to get by with 48 or 60 spoke wheels. Go for the 72 spoke wheels. Charles Hill cyberemp at comcast.net wrote: > Greetings my wise, illustrious and esteemed fellow Mg owners!! > I'm considering the transplant of a V8 in one of my Mgs someday in a brighter, > more financially stable future. > I've noted that some of you have MGB V8s with wire wheels. The Book on the > subject, "how to give your MG V8 power" seems to skirt the issue, with a brief > note about shredding splines off the w.w. hub. > I'm curious to know the real world fixes for any possible consequence of > "enthusiastic" driving with all that torque. > Can there be studs to lock the wheel and hub together to prevent the hub from > spinning faster than the wheel, as the twin cam wheels have? (though I think > theirs is for braking purposes. And yea, I know the twin cam has steel wheels > with knock offs) > Who can shed light on this mystery? > T.I.A. for any help and enlightenment you may offer. > Eric From WSpohn4 at aol.com Fri Aug 8 18:37:59 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 20:37:59 EDT Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? Message-ID: There is no problem using splined wheels with high powered automobiles. Aston used them, the AC Cobra used them, my Lamborghini uses them. The only trick is to make sure they splines are maintained, lubricated, and replaced (ditto the wheels) as needed. The Twin Cam used peg drive as a fast change mechanism as first used on the D type Jaguars, nothing to do with braking. Bill In a message dated 08/08/2008 4:30:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, cyberemp at comcast.net writes: I'm curious to know the real world fixes for any possible consequence of "enthusiastic" driving with all that torque. Can there be studs to lock the wheel and hub together to prevent the hub from spinning faster than the wheel, as the twin cam wheels have? (though I think theirs is for braking purposes. And yea, I know the twin cam has steel wheels with knock offs) Who can shed light on this mystery? From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 8 18:10:31 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2008 17:10:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? In-Reply-To: <080820082330.22095.489CD6FC000186760000564F22155538949F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Message-ID: I don't know that there is an inherent conflict between splined wheels and torque -- look at all those monster Ferraris with Borrani wire wheels with knockoffs. The problem is, there are splines and there are splines. If the splines on your wheels and on your hubs are in perfect condition, and your knockoffs are tightened correctly, I wouldn't expect that to necessarily be the site of failure. But I'm sure we all know someone who has "spun" a hub, and generally on a less powerful car than a V8. It seems to me that your choices are to go ahead and try it, and if you have problems, convert to bolt-on wheels; or to convert to bolt-ons right off the bat. I don't think there is a magic preventive measure. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/8/08 4:30 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net at cyberemp at comcast.net wrote: > Greetings my wise, illustrious and esteemed fellow Mg owners!! > I'm considering the transplant of a V8 in one of my Mgs someday in a brighter, > more financially stable future. > I've noted that some of you have MGB V8s with wire wheels. The Book on the > subject, "how to give your MG V8 power" seems to skirt the issue, with a brief > note about shredding splines off the w.w. hub. > I'm curious to know the real world fixes for any possible consequence of > "enthusiastic" driving with all that torque. > Can there be studs to lock the wheel and hub together to prevent the hub > from > spinning faster than the wheel, as the twin cam wheels have? (though I think > theirs is for braking purposes. And yea, I know the twin cam has steel wheels > with knock offs) > Who can shed light on this mystery? > T.I.A. for any help and enlightenment you may offer. > Eric > > > > > 59 MGA > 65 MGB > 70 MGB > 71 MGB > 74 F-250 needing motor. > 74.5 MGB > 00 Nissan X-Terra Soon to be sold to finance F-250 motor repair. > So many cars, so little parking From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Aug 8 18:43:34 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 17:43:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] V8 MGB and wire wheels? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <564034.76662.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Another way to look at it is this: You probably apply more torque on the splines in braking than in accelerating. Another point. Those Borrani wheel spokes are easily TWICE the diameter of our MG wires. rick --- Max Heim wrote: > I don't know that there is an inherent conflict > between splined wheels and > torque -- look at all those monster Ferraris with > Borrani wire wheels with > knockoffs. > > The problem is, there are splines and there are > splines. > > If the splines on your wheels and on your hubs are > in perfect condition, and > your knockoffs are tightened correctly, I wouldn't > expect that to > necessarily be the site of failure. > > But I'm sure we all know someone who has "spun" a > hub, and generally on a > less powerful car than a V8. > > It seems to me that your choices are to go ahead and > try it, and if you have > problems, convert to bolt-on wheels; or to convert > to bolt-ons right off the > bat. I don't think there is a magic preventive > measure. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 8/8/08 4:30 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net at > cyberemp at comcast.net wrote: > > > Greetings my wise, illustrious and esteemed fellow > Mg owners!! > > I'm considering the transplant of a V8 in one of > my Mgs someday in a brighter, > > more financially stable future. > > I've noted that some of you have MGB V8s with wire > wheels. The Book on the > > subject, "how to give your MG V8 power" seems to > skirt the issue, with a brief > > note about shredding splines off the w.w. hub. > > I'm curious to know the real world fixes for > any possible consequence of > > "enthusiastic" driving with all that torque. > > Can there be studs to lock the wheel and hub > together to prevent the hub > > from > > spinning faster than the wheel, as the twin cam > wheels have? (though I think > > theirs is for braking purposes. And yea, I know > the twin cam has steel wheels > > with knock offs) > > Who can shed light on this mystery? > > T.I.A. for any help and enlightenment you may > offer. > > Eric > > > > > > > > > > 59 MGA > > 65 MGB > > 70 MGB > > 71 MGB > > 74 F-250 needing motor. > > 74.5 MGB > > 00 Nissan X-Terra Soon to be sold to finance F-250 > motor repair. > > So many cars, so little parking > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Aug 8 20:07:09 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 19:07:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Really nice victory, was: Small victories Message-ID: <241468.73156.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Friends, Yesterday I wrote, and I now add comments: > The brakes are new all around so it was rewarding > to find no leaks and feel a nicely firm pedal. Bled them again today, starting at the longest corner and ending up at the left front. Pedal is now even better. Adjusted the handbrake but got it too loose. I need to tighten it up a bit. > I now need to remount the wheels... Wheels painted, tires cleaned, splines greased and wheels reinstalled. > ...check/adjust the tire pressures... They're pretty close but I'll set them correctly tomorrow. 21psi front, 24psi rear > get 'er down off the stands, Yep, did that. I'd forgotten how low it sets! > reconnect the carb linkage, balance the SUs Did that too. The carbs were running WAY too lean. I hadn't adjusted them since the rebuilds so they were just at the static post-assembly settings. Once the mixture was set on each carb I balanced the air flow and locked down the linkage. I discovered that one of the throttle return springs was overly weak and was not consistently returning the rear throttle to fully closed. That resulted in an unpredictable idle speed. Now repaired and the car idles at smoothly and consistently about 800rpm. Set the fast idle speed on the chokes. > ...and go for a careful test drive or two or three. The test drive was a tiny trip down the street and back, as the temperature was 95 degrees out today and I was melting. Tomorrow morning before the blast furnace we Houston, comes alive, I may take another short jaunt around the block. I now need to tie up loose ends - like a broken passenger window crank, that handbrake adjustment, etc. and I can start venturing further from the house. I can now get the M-B 180b ponton into the garage and out of the killer sun. The sun is the enemy. We hate the enemy. Regards, rick '08 M-B C300 - my daily driver '03 L-R Discovery - Nancy's daily driver '96 BMW 740iL - son's daily driver '79 Ferrari 308GTB - big toy, beautifully restored '70 MGB Tourer - little toy, on the road again '61 M-B 180b - new toy, not road worthy - yet From mark at bradakis.com Sat Aug 9 00:37:47 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 00:37:47 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice In-Reply-To: <002201c8f8bc$f822a7e0$7a451645@normoffice> References: <002201c8f8bc$f822a7e0$7a451645@normoffice> Message-ID: <489D3B3B.2080009@bradakis.com> Norm 2Bs wrote: > I once had a problem with leaking head gaskets on the B. I took a couple > foot long section of old solid-surface countertop from a demolished kitchen, > glued pieces of emery paper to it & spent some time sliding the head back & > forth until it all showed abrasion. That meant it was FLAT. After that, no > more gasket leaks. > > Norm Sippel > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a30NNVgwQLQ mjb. From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sat Aug 9 00:51:21 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 23:51:21 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice In-Reply-To: <489D3B3B.2080009@bradakis.com> References: <002201c8f8bc$f822a7e0$7a451645@normoffice> <489D3B3B.2080009@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <40b437200808082351h319ddax7bd30e21e9f264d2@mail.gmail.com> I expect to be flamed for this, but when I replaced the leaking head gasket on my MGA, as well as using a new head gasket (obviously), I used some of the spray-on gasket goo. I was unable to remove one of the studs from the block, so was rather limited in what I could do to the block. Water was seeping out on the right-hand side of the block (the distributor side). It hasn't leaked since. I haven't tried to use a compression tester on it, but there is nothing to indicate that it is leaking between cylinders. On another note: to remove the stud, I tried soaking it in PB Blaster, applying heat to the stud. None of these shifted it. I dod not want to apply too much torque to the stud, since snapping it off would give me a worse problem. What's the secret to getting studs out? Regards, Simon On Fri, Aug 8, 2008 at 11:37 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Norm 2Bs wrote: >> I once had a problem with leaking head gaskets on the B. I took a couple >> foot long section of old solid-surface countertop from a demolished kitchen, >> glued pieces of emery paper to it & spent some time sliding the head back & >> forth until it all showed abrasion. That meant it was FLAT. After that, no >> more gasket leaks. >> >> Norm Sippel >> >> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a30NNVgwQLQ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 9 09:12:11 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 16:12:11 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] VSCC Hill Climb, Prescott Message-ID: <001801c8fa32$5ce7c0e0$0200a8c0@Three> http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/vsccp08.htm Some pictures from this event on 2nd and 3rd August. Stunning display of 2-300 spectators pre-war cars in Orchard car park, as well as the competitors. From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Sat Aug 9 16:22:04 2008 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 18:22:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] where... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080809182204.u2m80w67c4ow008k@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Hi Guys, Time to make fun of me...I am looking for the location of the oil pressure switch for replacement (in a '74B). Could someone direct me to either a Moss catalog diagram, a Bentley Workshop manual diagram ('62-74 edition), in Haynes or ...direct me verbally to find its location? TIA, Bill S. BMCSNJ '74 B in repair '76 B on the road From barrie at look.ca Sat Aug 9 17:25:44 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 19:25:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] New springs, no more hitting policemen. In-Reply-To: <02ae01c6c148$9fec2fe0$eee3fea9@one> References: <7.0.1.0.0.20060816101537.01eec828@look.ca> <02ae01c6c148$9fec2fe0$eee3fea9@one> Message-ID: Paul, If you remember we corresponded about raising the rear of my MGB GT V8. Well, I have been having trouble with hitting sleeping policemen (speed bumps) and also having difficulty with all sorts of driveways etc. So I had new exhaust system put in which helped but also removed some previous bad workmanship so got more power - but still hitting. Remembering that I was low at the rear I decided a look at at height. With horror I measured 12" instead of 14.5" (centre of hub to bottom of chrome strip) at the front and I could not get the jack under the cross member. This seems to have happened gradually as I have just recently noticed that the jack no longer goes under. So with 13" at the back I was LOW. So I have ordered bog standard new front springs and new rear springs from Moss- and they go in next week. At 11:15 AM 8/16/2006, you wrote: >My problem was grounding in country lanes, with new springs. I extended the >shackle plates by about an inch or so by cutting and shutting two pairs (so >as only to have one weld in each). See >http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_suspensionframe.htm, click on 'Ride Height', >and scroll down to 'Extended Shackles'. > > >PaulH. > >----- Original Message ----- > > ... so how do you raise it a > > half inch? Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 10 03:08:59 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 10:08:59 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] where... References: <20080809182204.u2m80w67c4ow008k@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <00cb01c8facc$dacc3eb0$0200a8c0@Three> Do you mean for the gauge or the anti runon system? AFAIK in the former case North American MGBs changed back from an electric oil gauge to a mechanical (but still rectangular) in 72. The anti-runon switch (fitted from 73) should be in the same area i.e. on a Tee near the right rear corner of the block where the oil pressure gauge pipe/sender is attached, with a grey/yellow wire. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ...I am looking for the location of the oil pressure switch for replacement (in a '74B). From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Aug 10 08:09:54 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 07:09:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures Message-ID: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The service manual recommends for my '70 MGB, the following tire pressures: 21 psi front 25 psi rear The rears look great at 25psi but at the recommended 21psi in the front, the sidewalls are flexing far more than the rears and look as if there is a leak! At 25psi in the front, the tire sidewalls look more like the rears but still flexed noticably more. So tell me, for everyday use, what tire pressures do you use in your MGBs? rick From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 10 08:39:56 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 15:39:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures References: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00f101c8faf7$0f8acd40$0200a8c0@Three> I've always used the book figures of 21/24, however many Americans seem to be exponents of 30psi or so saying "that is what modern cars are". That's so, but as an experiment I recently tried mine at 30 and found it a bone-shaking ride, although the turn-in was possibly a bit sharper. I've now got them at 25/28, which seems to give a 'normal' ride and turn-in. I shall keep them at that as I find my tubes do loose air very slowly so the higher figure stops them dropping below the recommended figure too quickly. In 20 years with the roadster and 13 with the V8 on recommended pressures I have never had problems with uneven wear, or wear patterns associated with under-inflation, which is something else others have claimed. Experiment, and go with what suits you best. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- The rears look great at 25psi but at the recommended 21psi in the front, the sidewalls are flexing far more than the rears and look as if there is a leak! From mg_garage at comcast.net Sun Aug 10 08:56:05 2008 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (Gordies Garage) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 10:56:05 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: <00f101c8faf7$0f8acd40$0200a8c0@Three> References: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <00f101c8faf7$0f8acd40$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <000001c8faf9$37cf6ac0$640fa8c0@notebook700m> For a time I used the 'modern' tyre pressures (30-32 psi)until the tyres wore out,with uneven wear. Since my new tires, some 5 yrs and @ 25k miles ago I have stuck with the (about) 24/28 as recommended for spirited driving in the MGA manual and have noticed no uneven wear. Just my experience. Gordie -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 10:40 AM To: Rick Lindsay; MGS Subject: Re: [Mgs] tire pressures I've always used the book figures of 21/24, however many Americans seem to be exponents of 30psi or so saying "that is what modern cars are". That's so, but as an experiment I recently tried mine at 30 and found it a bone-shaking ride, although the turn-in was possibly a bit sharper. I've now got them at 25/28, which seems to give a 'normal' ride and turn-in. I shall keep them at that as I find my tubes do loose air very slowly so the higher figure stops them dropping below the recommended figure too quickly. In 20 years with the roadster and 13 with the V8 on recommended pressures I have never had problems with uneven wear, or wear patterns associated with under-inflation, which is something else others have claimed. Experiment, and go with what suits you best. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- The rears look great at 25psi but at the recommended 21psi in the front, the sidewalls are flexing far more than the rears and look as if there is a leak! _______________________________________________ From ddarby at centurytel.net Sun Aug 10 11:22:27 2008 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 12:22:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures References: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <623C8834BE2A41CDAFBDC04AFE949E74@toshibauser> FWIW, I'm running 28psi all the way around on MGA, MGB, and MG-ZB. The ride is a little firm, but the steering feels crisper. I haven't noticed any uneven wear. YMMV. David From palte at gmx.net Sun Aug 10 12:47:19 2008 From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 20:47:19 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080810184719.266660@gmx.net> What tyre size do you have? (This is also an important factor). -------- Original-Nachricht -------- > Datum: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 07:09:54 -0700 (PDT) > Von: Rick Lindsay > An: MGS > Betreff: [Mgs] tire pressures > The service manual recommends for my '70 MGB, the > following tire pressures: > > 21 psi front > 25 psi rear > > The rears look great at 25psi but at the recommended > 21psi in the front, the sidewalls are flexing far more > than the rears and look as if there is a leak! At > 25psi in the front, the tire sidewalls look more like > the rears but still flexed noticably more. > > So tell me, for everyday use, what tire pressures do > you use in your MGBs? > -- Psssst! Schon das coole Video vom GMX MultiMessenger gesehen? Der Eine f|r Alle: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/messenger03 From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 10 12:14:28 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 11:14:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I am running 31 f/34 r. This does tend to wear the center of the tread a bit, but I am trying to maximize mileage at present, and these tires are pretty worn anyway. 21psi seems ludicrous for modern radials. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/10/08 7:09 AM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote: > The service manual recommends for my '70 MGB, the > following tire pressures: > > 21 psi front > 25 psi rear > > The rears look great at 25psi but at the recommended > 21psi in the front, the sidewalls are flexing far more > than the rears and look as if there is a leak! At > 25psi in the front, the tire sidewalls look more like > the rears but still flexed noticably more. > > So tell me, for everyday use, what tire pressures do > you use in your MGBs? > > rick From rdwilt at pol.net Mon Aug 11 10:36:59 2008 From: rdwilt at pol.net (Roger Wilt) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 12:36:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] selling the family TD Message-ID: <000e01c8fbd0$79b985b0$e103a8c0@HPcompaq> With much chagrin, I am selling my red '51 TD. It has been in the family for 50 years but I am out of storage space, 16yo new driver, wife wants her garage space back etc. Have it listed at the site http://www.robbcoauctions.com/ where they are having a British Car Auction on August 16th at National Trail Raceway, east of Columbus, OH. They have it listed as "EC" but it is really a mechanically sound 20 footer. While all electrics are still working, only some of the wiring has been replaced. I drive it regularly and have receipts of all work done.. There are multiple pics on the site. Contact me off list if you would like more info. Roger Wilt Columbus OH '51 MGTD '74 MGB From ccrobins at ktc.com Mon Aug 11 10:52:02 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:52:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: <00f101c8faf7$0f8acd40$0200a8c0@Three> References: <164271.40759.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <00f101c8faf7$0f8acd40$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <48A06E32.1050406@ktc.com> Last time I bought a new set of Coopers for my '69B I forgot to tell them the pressures I wanted. So I took off down the highway and the car was squirrelly beyond belief. I stopped ASAP and checked the pressures, which were 35 psi all around! Lowered them to 26/28 and all was well. CR Paul Hunt wrote: > I've always used the book figures of 21/24, however many Americans seem to be > exponents of 30psi or so saying "that is what modern cars are". That's so, > but as an experiment I recently tried mine at 30 and found it a bone-shaking > ride, although the turn-in was possibly a bit sharper. I've now got them at > 25/28, which seems to give a 'normal' ride and turn-in. I shall keep them at > that as I find my tubes do loose air very slowly so the higher figure stops > them dropping below the recommended figure too quickly. In 20 years with the > roadster and 13 with the V8 on recommended pressures I have never had problems > with uneven wear, or wear patterns associated with under-inflation, which is > something else others have claimed. > > Experiment, and go with what suits you best. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > The rears look great at 25psi but at the recommended > 21psi in the front, the sidewalls are flexing far more > than the rears and look as if there is a leak! > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Mon Aug 11 15:00:26 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:00:26 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: <48A06E32.1050406@ktc.com> Message-ID: <> That is also what I use on Wife's car and all customers' cars, Rick & Charlie. Ed From montejane at gmail.com Mon Aug 11 18:45:36 2008 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:45:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: <48A06E32.1050406@ktc.com> Message-ID: I recently had all four tires remounted and balanced and they put 30 PSI all round; the handling was terrible I thought. 25 in front and 28 in rear (on 185/75 on standard rims) seems to handle the way I like. Monte On 8/11/08, Ed's Shop wrote: > > <> > > That is also what I use on Wife's car and all customers' cars, Rick & > Charlie. > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com Tue Aug 12 09:18:50 2008 From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:18:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures Message-ID: <21023942.1914101218554330812.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web02-z02> Tire brand, size, style and type of use all may inluence decisions on tire inflation, IMO. On my 71 BGT I use a midprice 185.70.14 Firestone touring tire ( actually four tires) all @ 30-32 psi I use the car on paved straight roads at 40-70 MPH frequently on Interstates. So while I get a little bouncy going over neighborhood speed bumps, I get a nice higher spped ride and slightly better gas milage....Mel ---- Monte/Jane Morris wrote: > I recently had all four tires remounted and balanced and they put 30 PSI all > round; the handling was terrible I thought. 25 in front and 28 in rear (on > 185/75 on standard rims) seems to handle the way I like. > Monte > > > On 8/11/08, Ed's Shop wrote: > > > > <> > > > > That is also what I use on Wife's car and all customers' cars, Rick & > > Charlie. > > > > Ed > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From macgroup at comcast.net Tue Aug 12 10:23:45 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:23:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice--update In-Reply-To: <338581.51339.qm@web51511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <338581.51339.qm@web51511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <242192187F7145B2AF2BBDA439890337@StusLaptopPC> Thanks John, I got the ARP studs, very pricey! It turned out that the head was cracked between #1 & #2, very unusual. Even the machinist, a British car specialist here in Seattle) missed it, and he said he's never seen one crack like this. He's now rebuilding an early head I had lying around. I'm going with the Payen gasket set too, so I'm pretty confident, now that I know the reason for the failure. Stuart -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: [Mgs] Head gasket advice I'm my experience rebuilding MGB engines I had a few that blew head gaskets soon after being rebuilt. The main problem as that after a few times having the head and or block resurfaced the compression ratio of the engine keeps increasing combined with the old mild steel studs you get leaks. You need to get the block and head flat again then change the studs. I prefer the ARP chromoly stud kit and have run race engines at 13to1 compression without blowing the gasket. Any ARP bolt dealer/performance car shop can order the kit. I did try grade 8 bolts torqued to 60ft lbs once on the recommendation of my father (an aerospace engineer) and although grade 8 bolts do real well in tension they are very brittle in shear and I used to break quite a few while torquing them. New studs, flat head/block and you should be okay. I've used permatex 300 brushed in the gasket to help seal questionable blocks with good success. It does make the engine harder to clean up next time you do a tear down. good luck John From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Tue Aug 12 11:32:59 2008 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:32:59 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] British car show in Portland end of August? In-Reply-To: <242192187F7145B2AF2BBDA439890337@StusLaptopPC> References: <338581.51339.qm@web51511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <242192187F7145B2AF2BBDA439890337@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F78D@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Does anyone have information on a British car show in Portland Oregon (NW USA) at the end of this month? I believe it is an annual event that occurs every Labor Day weekend. My son mentioned it to me and it appears likely that I will attend it this year. I am combining it in with a work related trip to Seattle so I will be flying in (thus without British car, just a rental of some kind). Living in the more remote, less populated part of the US, I seldom make it to car shows so I am not too familiar with them. In fact I have only been to one which was the Colorado Conclave (2001?). Anyway, I would be interested in what kind of schedule and events there might be and if any other listers might be in attendance. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Aug 12 11:41:30 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:41:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Engine install update References: <338581.51339.qm@web51511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <242192187F7145B2AF2BBDA439890337@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <002401c8fca2$a7bbbfa0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Listers, After putting new alternator bearings and brushes on the original Lucas alternator, I installed the unit in the '72 MGB. Guess I should have should have replaced the regulator too, for the ignition light remained on. Solution: a rebuilt alternator from Auto Zone. The Lucas unit they supplied was identical to the one I'd removed and beautifully done. It worked too! At $61.00 exchange with a lifetime guarantee, it's obvious that I should have gone that route in the first place. The only complaint I had was the metric heli coil used to repair the threaded hole for the adjustment bracket: 8mm x 1.5. The oil pressure gauge which worked two years ago, wasn't getting off "0". I bent my old body under the dash and removed the tach so that I could reach the oil pipe connection to the oil pressure gauge from the front of the dash. After loosening the pipe and starting the engine, still no oil flow. Turned out to be a solidly blocked pipe which I cleared with a piece of wire followed by compressed air. 70psi at idle running 30wt Brad Penn non detergent break in oil. I'm happy with that. Now on to the new windscreen glass.... Ed Woods From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue Aug 12 13:29:15 2008 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 14:29:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Portland Car Show Message-ID: <48720d20808121229n70576575g93000af4225cd73b@mail.gmail.com> The show is great! It starts with a bar b q on Friday, the car show on Saturday, a rally and auto jumble on Sunday, and vintage car racing every day. The URL is http://www.abfm-pdx.com/2008/index.htm Enjoy! Jack From macgroup at comcast.net Tue Aug 12 21:51:06 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 20:51:06 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Wrong engine, any ideas? Message-ID: <70D9C380A7BB43D3B3CA44CC0CF26A03@StusLaptopPC> Hi folks, A few years ago I had an opportunity to buy a rebuilt "MGB" engine a customer couldn't pay for from a professional engine rebuilder. Based on his reputation (he's done other engines for me, but isn't a British car specialist) I agreed to buy it for my son's project car, and put it away in dry storage. It was a quick deal, and I didn't take a close look at it. Well, I just pulled it out of storage, and I see that it is a Nissan/Datsun Roadster engine!!!!! It will fit the MGB since it is basically a copy, but it has a head modification that requires a different heater valve, and I'd have to fabricate a blanking plate to cover a big hole in the engine block (I have no idea what that opening was for). I'm reluctant to mess. So, I thought I'd seek some fellow motorhead opinions. Anybody want an MG "copy" engine made in Japan? The metallurgy is probably better! Any ideas would be appreciated, I'd hate to see it go to the recycler, but iron is about ten cents a pound, and that may be all I can get out of it. I'll check for Datsun 1600/2000 member groups, but only 30,000 of these were made. TIA, Stuart Seattle From mark at bradakis.com Tue Aug 12 23:35:39 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 23:35:39 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Wrong engine, any ideas? In-Reply-To: <70D9C380A7BB43D3B3CA44CC0CF26A03@StusLaptopPC> References: <70D9C380A7BB43D3B3CA44CC0CF26A03@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <48A272AB.8020007@bradakis.com> > I'll check for Datsun 1600/2000 member groups, but only 30,000 of these were > made. > datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net mjb. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Aug 13 01:42:56 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 08:42:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Wrong engine, any ideas? References: <70D9C380A7BB43D3B3CA44CC0CF26A03@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <006301c8fd18$382d3b70$0200a8c0@Three> FWIW possibly mechanical fuel pump, some variants of the MGB engine used in other BL models had those. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... and I'd have to fabricate a blanking plate to cover a big hole in the engine block (I have no idea what that opening was for)... . __,_._,___ From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 13 15:34:52 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 16:34:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 17 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <126B69FE-D9D1-4ED9-AEFF-625ED5115313@sbcglobal.net> Is it a bolt up fit or is a kit needed? > > > Well, I just pulled it out of storage, and I see that it is a > Nissan/Datsun > Roadster engine!!!!! It will fit the MGB since it is basically a > copy, but > it has a head modification that requires a different heater valve, > and I'd > have to fabricate a blanking plate to cover a big hole in the > engine block > (I have no idea what that opening was for). I'm reluctant to mess. > So, I > thought I'd seek some fellow motorhead opinions. Anybody want an > MG "copy" > engine made in Japan? The metallurgy is probably better! > > > > Any ideas would be appreciated, I'd hate to see it go to the > recycler, but > iron is about ten cents a pound, and that may be all I can get out > of it. > I'll check for Datsun 1600/2000 member groups, but only 30,000 of > these were > made. From j_cahoon at yahoo.com Thu Aug 14 07:15:57 2008 From: j_cahoon at yahoo.com (John Cahoon) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 06:15:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG 1300 body parts Message-ID: <627765.91948.qm@web65402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> ALL I am currently cleaning out the Dave Mack Auto shop at 23126 Lakeland Blvd in Euclid OH [Dave died in May]. I have found a hood, trunk lid and 2 doors with all panels for an MG 1300. They have been in dry storage for many years. They are used parts with only light rust/damage. Pictures will be available soon. Any interest on this list before I try Ebay? Or suggestions? ????? Thanks JOHN CAHOON From mgbnutt at aol.com Thu Aug 14 14:49:11 2008 From: mgbnutt at aol.com (mgbnutt at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 16:49:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] FW: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance In-Reply-To: <363324.83067.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CACC6656CFE2E9-161C-5A4@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com> I apologize in advance, as I know this topic was discussed before, but what are some other classic car insurers besides Hagerty? Thanks! donny v 78 MGB -----Original Message----- From: David Breneman To: shop at justbrits.com; melfrankus at carolina.rr.com Cc: bugeye at yahoo.com; Mgs at Autox.Team.Net ; midgetsprite at yahoo.com; Healeys at Autox.Team.Net ; mg-t at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 11:52 pm Subject: Re: [Mgs] FW: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance --- On Wed, 7/30/08, melfrankus at carolina.rr.com wrote: > Thanks for the heads up on the insurance article. My MG has > always been insured with our other vehicles. For funzies I > went on the Hagerty website. Their quote for my 71 MGB/GT > with 500$ deductible and a $10K vlue is half of what we are > now paying with the multiple cars disc. and 2 residences > insured with same co.....Mel I don't think Hagerty has made a dime off me. In the five years my MGA has been insured with them (since it was restored) for $200/year, they've bought me a windshield (zero deductible) and towed my car when the differential self destructed. Both those claims were in the first three years. They may be gaining on me by now. :-) You are subscribed as mgbnutt at aol.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From ccrobins at ktc.com Thu Aug 14 20:48:38 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 21:48:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: <21023942.1914101218554330812.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web02-z02> References: <21023942.1914101218554330812.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web02-z02> Message-ID: <48A4EE86.5020501@ktc.com> I've been known to pump 'em up for road trips with a big load. It seem to be important to maintain a 2-3 psi differential from front to rear though. CR melfrankus at carolina.rr.com wrote: > Tire brand, size, style and type of use all may inluence decisions on tire inflation, IMO. > On my 71 BGT I use a midprice 185.70.14 Firestone touring tire ( actually four tires) all @ 30-32 psi > I use the car on paved straight roads at 40-70 MPH frequently on Interstates. So while I get a little bouncy going over neighborhood speed bumps, I get a nice higher spped ride and slightly better gas milage....Mel > ---- From ccrobins at ktc.com Thu Aug 14 20:50:33 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 21:50:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice--update In-Reply-To: <242192187F7145B2AF2BBDA439890337@StusLaptopPC> References: <338581.51339.qm@web51511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <242192187F7145B2AF2BBDA439890337@StusLaptopPC> Message-ID: <48A4EEF9.4030000@ktc.com> I'd make sure the block was flat and to chamfer the head stud holes, too. CR Stuart MacMillan wrote: > Thanks John, > > I got the ARP studs, very pricey! It turned out that the head was cracked > between #1 & #2, very unusual. Even the machinist, a British car specialist > here in Seattle) missed it, and he said he's never seen one crack like this. > He's now rebuilding an early head I had lying around. > > I'm going with the Payen gasket set too, so I'm pretty confident, now that I > know the reason for the failure. > > Stuart From ddarby at centurytel.net Thu Aug 14 21:16:19 2008 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 22:16:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: [Spridgets] WSJ article on collecter car insurance References: <8CACC6656CFE2E9-161C-5A4@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: J. C. Taylor in Darby, PA. David ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 3:49 PM collecter car insurance From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 15 02:12:49 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 09:12:49 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures References: <21023942.1914101218554330812.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web02-z02> <48A4EE86.5020501@ktc.com> Message-ID: <009301c8feae$f63ff390$0200a8c0@Three> That should always be done, the manufacturers figures on many cars specify it, although for the MGB the manual only specifies increasing the *rear* pressures by 2psi, which should already be 3 or 4 psi higher than the fronts. Of course if you are already running above the 'high speed/heavy load' figure then it may not be a good idea to go even further. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I've been known to pump 'em up for road trips with a big load. It seem to be important to maintain a 2-3 psi differential from front to rear though. From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com Fri Aug 15 11:04:13 2008 From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 13:04:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures Message-ID: <157059.1792751218819853997.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> Try hauling around my Mother in Law. Talk about a big load. Pump rears up to 55#psi and the fuel tank still drags the ground.....Mel ---- Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > I've been known to pump 'em up for road trips with a big load. It seem > to be important to maintain a 2-3 psi differential from front to rear > though. > > CR > > melfrankus at carolina.rr.com wrote: > > Tire brand, size, style and type of use all may inluence decisions on tire inflation, IMO. > > On my 71 BGT I use a midprice 185.70.14 Firestone touring tire ( actually four tires) all @ 30-32 psi > > I use the car on paved straight roads at 40-70 MPH frequently on Interstates. So while I get a little bouncy going over neighborhood speed bumps, I get a nice higher spped ride and slightly better gas milage....Mel > > ---- From j_cahoon at yahoo.com Fri Aug 15 12:19:09 2008 From: j_cahoon at yahoo.com (John Cahoon) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 11:19:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: MG 1300/1100 body parts CORRECTION Message-ID: <841425.3981.qm@web65411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> CORRECTION: Upon closer inspection what I have is a Hood and a TRUNK lid from an AUSTIN 1100/1300. Then I have a trunk lid from an MG 1300/1100. And finally 2 doors from a 2 door model (not sure if they are Austin or MG or if both are the same). More info to follow. JOHN --- John Cahoon wrote: > Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 06:15:57 -0700 (PDT) > From: John Cahoon > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] MG 1300 body parts > > ALL > > I am currently cleaning out the Dave Mack Auto shop > at > 23126 Lakeland Blvd in Euclid OH [Dave died in May]. > > I have found a hood, trunk lid and 2 doors with all > panels for an MG 1300. They have been in dry > storage > for many years. They are used parts with only light > rust/damage. Pictures will be available soon. Any > interest on this list before I try Ebay? Or > suggestions? ????? > > Thanks JOHN CAHOON > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as j_cahoon at yahoo.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Fri Aug 15 12:36:55 2008 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 14:36:55 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tire pressures In-Reply-To: <157059.1792751218819853997.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> References: <157059.1792751218819853997.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> Message-ID: <20080815143655.13ru8yq3wgwocs0k@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> Mel. How could you? Holey Molley...what a comment. Luv it! Could her name rhyme with Molly? Bill S. Quoting melfrankus at carolina.rr.com: > Try hauling around my Mother in Law. Talk about a big load. Pump > rears up to 55#psi and the fuel tank still drags the ground.....Mel From macgroup at comcast.net Fri Aug 15 14:14:42 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 13:14:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice--update In-Reply-To: <48A4EEF9.4030000@ktc.com> References: <338581.51339.qm@web51511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <242192187F7145B2AF2BBDA439890337@StusLaptopPC> <48A4EEF9.4030000@ktc.com> Message-ID: <2BEFF9135D5C4BFE9CADCCA8C9C53F7B@StusLaptopPC> I'll chamfer the holes, but it's going back together with the block as is. If it's not flat enough, or the bit of corrosion in one cylinder is too severe, then it's complete rebuild time. I'm just going to try it as is since it was rebuilt 15k ago and the head will be fine. BTW, the second head I took in had been welded in that spot! Two in a row. The machinist didn't want to use that one. Fortunately, I had two more in storage, and I finally have it back and ready to go! Stuart -----Original Message----- From: Charles & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins at ktc.com] Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 7:51 PM To: Stuart MacMillan Cc: 'john ross'; 'MG List' Subject: Re: [Mgs] Head gasket advice--update I'd make sure the block was flat and to chamfer the head stud holes, too. CR Stuart MacMillan wrote: > Thanks John, > > I got the ARP studs, very pricey! It turned out that the head was cracked > between #1 & #2, very unusual. Even the machinist, a British car specialist > here in Seattle) missed it, and he said he's never seen one crack like this. > He's now rebuilding an early head I had lying around. > > I'm going with the Payen gasket set too, so I'm pretty confident, now that I > know the reason for the failure. > > Stuart From awhitema at panix.com Sun Aug 17 07:59:30 2008 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 06:59:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] parting out '78 MG Message-ID: 'lo all, I'm scavenging my dad's mostly mechanically sound, but sad looking '78 MGB for a collection of parts for my '75. When I'm done, it goes off to the crusher. The engine and transmission were rebuilt about 12 years back. I want the engine, but the tranny is a non-OD, so while I will be keeping it around, if somebody has a need for the later non-OD tranny with pretty new guts, let me know. Right now, all I know for sure that I want from this car are: the engine the brake and clutch master cylinders and booster assembly 2 steel wheels "good" electrical components (heater fan, various relays) shiny bits such as mirrors and lights if in good condition, the bumper assemblies if not warped, the boot lid So, 2 questions: Are any other parts that I should be considering that are valuable on my '75? Once my own needs are covered, would anybody else like to pick away at this car? It's located in Elma Washington, about 30 miles west of Olympia. -- Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/ '75 MGB (still at the painter), HIF4 carbs '06 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Aug 17 09:25:56 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 08:25:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] parting out '78 MG Message-ID: <783020.9200.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If it were me (and I had a little room) I'd strip the entire shell down and keep everything I could. Or list stuff on eBay. People are always looking for things like steel-wheel axles to convert a WW car, used shocks to be rebuilt, etc. Or maybe just put the hulk on eBay or craigslist. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Aaron Whiteman To: MG Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:59:30 AM Subject: [Mgs] parting out '78 MG 'lo all, I'm scavenging my dad's mostly mechanically sound, but sad looking '78 MGB for a collection of parts for my '75. When I'm done, it goes off to the crusher. The engine and transmission were rebuilt about 12 years back. I want the engine, but the tranny is a non-OD, so while I will be keeping it around, if somebody has a need for the later non-OD tranny with pretty new guts, let me know. Right now, all I know for sure that I want from this car are: the engine the brake and clutch master cylinders and booster assembly 2 steel wheels "good" electrical components (heater fan, various relays) shiny bits such as mirrors and lights if in good condition, the bumper assemblies if not warped, the boot lid So, 2 questions: Are any other parts that I should be considering that are valuable on my '75? Once my own needs are covered, would anybody else like to pick away at this car? It's located in Elma Washington, about 30 miles west of Olympia. -- Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/ '75 MGB (still at the painter), HIF4 carbs '06 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 17 09:38:42 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:38:42 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] parting out '78 MG References: <783020.9200.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003701c90080$33d2b2b0$0200a8c0@Three> Strike "I could". I restored my roadster 19 years ago and still have everything I took off it. I've even got two sets of perished seat foam webbing, I'm sure the wire frames and hooks will come in useful one day ... PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... I'd strip the entire shell down and keep everything I could... From Walkersteve at comcast.net Sun Aug 17 09:54:51 2008 From: Walkersteve at comcast.net (Steve Walker) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 11:54:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] My '78 MGB on ebay References: <783020.9200.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <003701c90080$33d2b2b0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <001401c90081$9589ff80$2302a8c0@Dell2> My '78 MGB in LE livery is on ebay, item #170248755494 - still not reached reserve. It's located in Marlborough MA. Ends tomorrow. Steve Walker From awhitema at panix.com Sun Aug 17 10:03:50 2008 From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:03:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] parting out '78 MG In-Reply-To: <003701c90080$33d2b2b0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <783020.9200.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <003701c90080$33d2b2b0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <319A9EBD-8DE6-4D35-B68B-F73C3F05D72B@panix.com> On Aug 17, 2008, at 8:38 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Strike "I could". I restored my roadster 19 years ago and still have > everything I took off it. I've even got two sets of perished seat > foam > webbing, I'm sure the wire frames and hooks will come in useful one > day ... Unfortunately, "I could" is the problem. If I had the space, I'd leave it as a car and take pieces off over time. However, while dad wouldn't mind.... mom "wants that rustbucket gone". She's a bit harsh, it's actually got less rust than my '75, but the paint is totally trashed, so it looks bad. Really bad. As I select parts, I have to be particularly careful about space. I'll add the axle and suspension subframe to my "keeper" list though, if I can keep the pile small enough, it can hide in a corner and mom won't mind (much). [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s] From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Aug 17 10:23:44 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 11:23:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat Message-ID: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> Seems my battery has died. I've been having some issues, that I chalked up to my recent re-wiring of the radio. And then some short in the ignition switch and/or light switch. I finally left it on the trickle charger over night, and it won't hold a charge. That's ok, it's 5 years old. I got my use out of it. The battery is an Interstate, and worked well for 5 years, even during last years alternator failure. I actually think that the alternator started going out the year before, which may have contributed. It's not a group 26, so it's a little big, but goes in. No handle, but I have a rope around it to help get it out. Still, I need to use a little hydraulic jack to help. Anyway, to the question. Is there a great advantage to going to a AGM battery (Westco or Optima type)? Apart from size? I think James got one fairly recently. Do you like it? Would a battery for a Miata work? Or is there a different size that's better? Paul. From steve at shoyer.com Sun Aug 17 12:24:39 2008 From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 14:24:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] parting out '78 MG In-Reply-To: <319A9EBD-8DE6-4D35-B68B-F73C3F05D72B@panix.com> References: <783020.9200.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com><003701c90080$33d2b2b0$0200a8c0@Three> <319A9EBD-8DE6-4D35-B68B-F73C3F05D72B@panix.com> Message-ID: Aaron, I went through the same thing with my two parts cars when we moved a few years ago. I tried to get as many small parts as I could, especially electrical and plastic items, as some of them are hard to find and they're relatively compact and light. I wound up with a couple of large plastic bins filled with parts. It's been great to be able to pick through them when I need a replacement for something. You could always go through the Moss catalog and take note of the parts that are No Longer Available to make sure that you're not forgetting anything that'll haunt you in the future when you need one. --Steve -----Original Message----- From: Aaron Whiteman Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 12:04 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] parting out '78 MG ...As I select parts, I have to be particularly careful about space. I'll add the axle and suspension subframe to my "keeper" list though, if I can keep the pile small enough, it can hide in a corner and mom won't mind (much).... From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Aug 17 15:29:26 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 14:29:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back from Vacation - Minimal Progress :-( Message-ID: <235332.89358.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Well, after a nice relaxing week in Cape Cod, I was looking forward to getting home and spending today fixing the carb and fuel 'weep' from the rubber bulkhead fuel hose. Unfortunately, my parts order was screwed up - twice - so, I have no parts. I was pretty ticked off last night and let the supplier know it when I called them today. Oh well. Hopefully the part to repair the carb will arrive tomorrow (10 day shipping from California, apparently), so perhaps I can get that done tomorrow evening. Depending how that goes, I may be able to start the car tomorrow night! Then I'll fix the 'weepage' once the new hose arrives. So instead, I spent some time messing around with the shift boot retaining ring. 2 of the 4 bolts had very stripped heads (ever seen a Philips head become a 'circle' head?!). I removed the retainer by basically tearing it apart (I have another on hand) and still have one last bolt to remove. Unfortunately, my Dremel power pack wasn't plugged in and needs a charge, so cutting a slot in the bolt head will have to wait until tomorrow. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From macgroup at comcast.net Sun Aug 17 17:11:07 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:11:07 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat In-Reply-To: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> References: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: AGM and Gel batteries have one advantage over flooded batteries, and that is they will survive deep discharging (80%) many more times than a flooded battery will. So, they are best for applications where that is a frequent occurrence. They also need a higher charging voltage than most cars (ours included) put out, at least 14.2v, and 13.6v is typical for most cars. Without the higher voltage, they never fully recharge, and their life shortens drastically. You either have to kick up the output of your alternator, or use a special charger designed for Gel and AGM once a week to keep them alive. IMHO, it's best just to stick with a flooded battery. Stuart -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Root Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:24 AM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat Seems my battery has died. I've been having some issues, that I chalked up to my recent re-wiring of the radio. And then some short in the ignition switch and/or light switch. I finally left it on the trickle charger over night, and it won't hold a charge. That's ok, it's 5 years old. I got my use out of it. The battery is an Interstate, and worked well for 5 years, even during last years alternator failure. I actually think that the alternator started going out the year before, which may have contributed. It's not a group 26, so it's a little big, but goes in. No handle, but I have a rope around it to help get it out. Still, I need to use a little hydraulic jack to help. Anyway, to the question. Is there a great advantage to going to a AGM battery (Westco or Optima type)? Apart from size? I think James got one fairly recently. Do you like it? Would a battery for a Miata work? Or is there a different size that's better? Paul. Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From MGALUVR at aol.com Sun Aug 17 17:14:21 2008 From: MGALUVR at aol.com (MGALUVR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 19:14:21 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... Message-ID: If you have one that's rebuilt or in good operating condition please let me know....The ZS currently on my 79 MGB has bit the dust....Tnx...Bill in Missouri 62 Mark II MGA Roadster..... 79 MGB roadster.... **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 ) From macgroup at comcast.net Sun Aug 17 17:20:19 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:20:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Anyone need a transmission? Message-ID: <9AFF3E698BA943E6BD1EC362A097FFF4@StusLaptopPC> I have a 1972 vintage four syncro transmission (non-overdrive) that works perfectly. I've been storing it for too long. If anyone wants it you can have it for what I paid for it, nothing! I'm in Seattle, come and get it! Stuart From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Aug 17 18:45:25 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 19:45:25 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat In-Reply-To: References: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9863A8A1-BB75-41E3-A0C1-D64CD94B15EB@gmail.com> Thanks, That's just the kind of information I needed to hear. Paul. On Aug 17, 2008, at 6:11 PM, Stuart MacMillan wrote: > AGM and Gel batteries have one advantage over flooded batteries, and > that is > they will survive deep discharging (80%) many more times than a > flooded > battery will. So, they are best for applications where that is a > frequent > occurrence. They also need a higher charging voltage than most cars > (ours > included) put out, at least 14.2v, and 13.6v is typical for most cars. > Without the higher voltage, they never fully recharge, and their life > shortens drastically. You either have to kick up the output of your > alternator, or use a special charger designed for Gel and AGM once a > week to > keep them alive. > > IMHO, it's best just to stick with a flooded battery. > > Stuart > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of Paul > Root > Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:24 AM > To: MG List > Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat > > Seems my battery has died. I've been having some issues, that I > chalked up to my recent re-wiring of the radio. > And then some short in the ignition switch and/or light switch. > > I finally left it on the trickle charger over night, and it won't hold > a charge. That's ok, it's 5 years old. I got my use out of it. > > The battery is an Interstate, and worked well for 5 years, even during > last years alternator failure. I actually think that the alternator > started going out the year before, which may have contributed. > > It's not a group 26, so it's a little big, but goes in. No handle, but > I have a rope around it to help get it out. Still, I need to use a > little hydraulic jack to help. > > Anyway, to the question. Is there a great advantage to going to a AGM > battery (Westco or Optima type)? Apart from size? I think > James got one fairly recently. Do you like it? > > Would a battery for a Miata work? Or is there a different size that's > better? > > Paul. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as macgroup at comcast.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sun Aug 17 19:21:46 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 18:21:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat In-Reply-To: References: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <40b437200808171821o3f8df0bes66e111d0428216a0@mail.gmail.com> On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 4:11 PM, Stuart MacMillan wrote: > AGM and Gel batteries have one advantage over flooded batteries, and that is > they will survive deep discharging (80%) many more times than a flooded > battery will. Who cares? Just buy a battery with a good warranty and return it for partial replacement if (when) the not so good-regulator on our LBCs causes the battery to die prematurely. Regards, Simon From MGALUVR at aol.com Sun Aug 17 20:10:12 2008 From: MGALUVR at aol.com (MGALUVR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 22:10:12 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... Message-ID: Hello, Well....It sat in my garage for about two years without any attention...and I think my gas tank had some rust in it.....the first couple of gallons of gas that the fuel pump supplied to the carb was darker than the strongest iced tea that you have ever seen.....after pulling the fuel line and continuous pumping it finally came out clear....but I think the carb now has a full dose of the crap that was in the fuel line (or rust in the gas tank)...I hate the Zenith Stromberg units anyway....They are a piece of crap...anyone have a solution to this problem....how about a new or recently rebuilt Weber DGV or some other alternative.....Let me know..........Thanks....Bill in Southwest Missouri........ **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 ) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 17 20:55:43 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:55:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... References: Message-ID: <001e01c900dd$f6f084e0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> well, i don't hate zs. they run rather well for me. i'll happily take them off your hands! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:10 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... > Hello, > > > Well....It sat in my garage for about two years without any > attention...and > I think my gas tank had some rust in it.....the first couple of gallons of > gas that the fuel pump supplied to the carb was darker than the strongest > iced > tea that you have ever seen.....after pulling the fuel line and continuous > pumping it finally came out clear....but I think the carb now has a full > dose > of the crap that was in the fuel line (or rust in the gas tank)...I hate > the > Zenith Stromberg units anyway....They are a piece of crap...anyone have a > solution to this problem....how about a new or recently rebuilt Weber DGV > or some > other alternative.....Let me know..........Thanks....Bill in Southwest > Missouri........ From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Aug 17 20:57:31 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:57:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat In-Reply-To: <40b437200808171821o3f8df0bes66e111d0428216a0@mail.gmail.com> References: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> <40b437200808171821o3f8df0bes66e111d0428216a0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <52A2B868-C320-4AE3-A0EA-1EAE00EAD88E@gmail.com> Like I said, I got 5 years (and 3 months) out of a 60 month battery. With a year of that a dying alternator. Ok, so 5 months is cold storage, no trickle charger. It was an Interstate MT-34, and it barely fit. I'll be sure to get a type 26 this time, with a handle. On Aug 17, 2008, at 8:21 PM, Simon Matthews wrote: > On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 4:11 PM, Stuart MacMillan > wrote: >> AGM and Gel batteries have one advantage over flooded batteries, >> and that is >> they will survive deep discharging (80%) many more times than a >> flooded >> battery will. > > > Who cares? Just buy a battery with a good warranty and return it for > partial replacement if (when) the not so good-regulator on our LBCs > causes the battery to die prematurely. > > Regards, > Simon From macgroup at comcast.net Sun Aug 17 22:49:23 2008 From: macgroup at comcast.net (Stuart MacMillan) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:49:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have an unused Weber DGV kit (Moss #222-260, $580) that has been stored for about 15 years, but never installed. There is some minor corrosion that can be cleaned off. It will need disassembly, clean up, and rebuilding with the $75 kit (222-266), but it will then be like new. I'll send some pix if you are interested. $150 plus shipping. Stuart '65 MGB -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+macgroup=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MGALUVR at aol.com Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:10 PM To: justbrits at comcast.net; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... Hello, Well....It sat in my garage for about two years without any attention...and I think my gas tank had some rust in it.....the first couple of gallons of gas that the fuel pump supplied to the carb was darker than the strongest iced tea that you have ever seen.....after pulling the fuel line and continuous pumping it finally came out clear....but I think the carb now has a full dose of the crap that was in the fuel line (or rust in the gas tank)...I hate the Zenith Stromberg units anyway....They are a piece of crap...anyone have a solution to this problem....how about a new or recently rebuilt Weber DGV or some other alternative.....Let me know..........Thanks....Bill in Southwest Missouri........ **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00 030000000007 ) Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 18 01:40:19 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:40:19 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat References: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <00ac01c90108$314b3bb0$0200a8c0@Three> First make sure you have fixed any drains, and made sure the alternator is charging properly, or the new battery will go the way of the old. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Seems my battery has died. I've been having some issues, that I chalked up to my recent re-wiring of the radio. And then some short in the ignition switch and/or light switch. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Aug 18 06:51:16 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 07:51:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] batteries: lead-acid vs Absorbed Glass Mat In-Reply-To: <00ac01c90108$314b3bb0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <7A886DF1-3C26-45F3-8003-1C07CC72D8D4@gmail.com> <00ac01c90108$314b3bb0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Yeah, I've been working those angles. Last year this time, I replaced the alternator. It seems good. (Volt meter looks good). I've gone through the wires for the headlights and turn signals, which have been the source of the symptoms. I can't find anything wrong with them. I've thought for a few years that I'd like to put in relays for the headlights. I know that is a side issue, but this may be the nudge that gets me to act on it. After cleaning up last night, after putting in the new positive battery cable. I realized that in my haste to have plenty of cable at the battery, I may have made the cable too tight at the starter end. I think I need to go back under the car and shift the cable forward two or three inches. Paul. On Aug 18, 2008, at 2:40 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > First make sure you have fixed any drains, and made sure the > alternator is charging properly, or the new battery will go the way > of the old. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > > Seems my battery has died. I've been having some issues, that I > chalked up to my recent re-wiring of the radio. > And then some short in the ignition switch and/or light switch. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 18 18:19:15 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 17:19:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Oil Pressure Message-ID: <851015.26149.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Back from vacation! A weel at Cape Cod is always a good thing. I installed the new plug and seal in my Z-S carb, which took care of the leak from the float chamber. Still have the weeping hose, which is now causing a little gas to run down the fuel line and drip onto the transmission! Hope to have the part to repair that in a couple of days. But I decided to try and start the engine anyways, since the drip was very slow. After unplugging the coil wire at the coil, I turned the engine over several times to build oil pressure. After about 5 minutes of cranking (about 10 - 15 seconds at a time), no indication of any pressure on the gauge. Is there another connection besides the oil pressure line? I do have that hooked up properly. Any other thoughts on why there would be no pressure in an engine that ran great 6 or so months ago, hasn't been opened up and is full of fresh 20w-50 oil with a new filter? Or did I just not crank it enough? My blog below is updated with a couple of pics. And the solution to the 'parking lights on' problem! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Aug 18 19:23:21 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:23:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday, October 5, 2008 Message-ID: <7238547.1219109001955.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> 29th ANNUAL SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY Sunday, October 5, 2008 San Diego British Car Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Twenty eight years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together over picnics at a park to view each othersb cars, and enjoy each othersb friendship. This year, we begin to return to that heritage. Over the past 28 years the event has grown considerably and now attracts participants from all over California and beyond. We are proud that this event has become one of the premier British car shows in California. In the past few years, we have incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among other things, permits and insurance. Thus, starting this year, we have made some changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event. For instance, there will be no program or raffle at this yearbs show. Also, due to the increased expenses, we have had to increase our registration fees by $5.00. We continue to provide a wonderful experience, including a variety of vendors, Hoggbs Beach BBQ, the very popular Cameron Highlander Bagpipers and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing pleasure. The San Diego British Car Club Council is a California nonprofit mutual benefit corporation. OCTOBER 5th EVENT SCHEDULE 7:30 b 10:00 Registration -- Park in your Marque area as directed/signed 10:00 b 3:00 Cars on display 11:30 b 12:00 Judging for best b Classic Elegantb English picnic 12:00 Ballots must be presented to the Club ballot boxes for cars of choice. Clubs count the ballots and turn in at the Judging boothbb on the hillb by the Minis 12:00 b 2:00 Picnic or Lunch at your leisure . . . and please pick up your trash! 12:30 Ballots MUST be turned into the Judging booth 2:00 Awards presentation 3:00 to ??? Enjoy the rest of the day . . . exit carefully please ADDITIONAL INFORMATION On the above event, or any particular Club or marque in attendance today b most have Web pages, and can be linked by going to the San Diego British Car Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org or by calling the information line: 760-746-1458 Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car Make Check Payable to: BCCC MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council P. O. Box 710131 San Diego, CA 92171-0131 QUESTIONS? Please call San Diego British Car Day Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458 www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Thank you! From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Aug 18 19:55:05 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:55:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] Correct info - SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday, October 5, 2008 Message-ID: <23866475.1219110906052.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Dear Folks, Sorry but the recent publication of the info about the San Diego British Car Meet was a confused communication that is totally wrong - Hope you don't mind deleting the first one I sent and pay attention to this one. Sorry about the confusion - thanks for your understanding ... Rick Feibusch British Car Network - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 29th San Diego British Car Day and Picnic Admiral Baker Field, San Diego, CA Sunday, October 5, 2008 San Diego British Car Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Twenty-nine years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together over picnics at a park to view each otherbs cars, and enjoy each otherbs friendship. This year, we return to that heritage. Over the past 29 years the event has grown considerably and now attracts participants from all over California and beyond. We are proud that this event has become one of the premier British car shows in California. In the past few years, we have incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among other things, forming a corporation, and insurance. Thus, we have made some changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event. For instance, there will be no vendors, program or raffle at this yearbs show. We continue to provide a wonderful experience, the very popular Cameron Highlander Bagpipers and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing pleasure. Have a Great Day!! Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car Make Check Payable to: BCCC MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council P. O. Box 710131 San Diego, CA 92171-0131 QUESTIONS? Please call San Diego British Car Day Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458 www.sandiegobritishcarday.org Thank you! From riverside at cedar-rapids.net Mon Aug 18 20:37:17 2008 From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:37:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... References: Message-ID: <010701c901a4$80254400$25690143@your55e5f9e3d2> The best direct replacement carb for the MGB single Zienth-Stromberg that I have found is the SU HIF 44 offered by Moss Motors. A direct bolt-on and mayby a little pricy, but I know people who have spent that much on trying to keep their ZS carb working. Just add a handchoke cable and your carb problems are over. I have installed seveal with excellant results. Ron, in the midwest. ----- Original Message---- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:10 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... > Hello, > > > Well....It sat in my garage for about two years without any > attention...and > I think my gas tank had some rust in it.....the first couple of gallons of > gas that the fuel pump supplied to the carb was darker than the strongest > iced > tea that you have ever seen.....after pulling the fuel line and continuous > pumping it finally came out clear....but I think the carb now has a full > dose > of the crap that was in the fuel line (or rust in the gas tank)...I hate > the > Zenith Stromberg units anyway....They are a piece of crap...anyone have a > solution to this problem....how about a new or recently rebuilt Weber DGV > or some > other alternative.....Let me know..........Thanks....Bill in Southwest > Missouri........ > > > > **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your > budget? > Read reviews on AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 > ) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as riverside at cedar-rapids.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.5/1618 - Release Date: 8/18/2008 > 6:51 AM From cyberemp at comcast.net Mon Aug 18 23:36:19 2008 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 05:36:19 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] engine weight Message-ID: <081920080536.5632.48AA5BD300084AD80000160022165499769F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Greetings fellow MG persons! What is the weight of our beloved mg motors? I'm thinking 450lbs or so. Mgb and MGa should be pretty close. With, without transmission. what if I use two coats of paint on the block? Mines kind of dusty right now, too. That's gotta add some weight to it! Not soaking wet, though. Enough. Thanks in advance. Eric From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Aug 19 00:11:13 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 23:11:13 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] engine weight In-Reply-To: <081920080536.5632.48AA5BD300084AD80000160022165499769F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> References: <081920080536.5632.48AA5BD300084AD80000160022165499769F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Message-ID: Off the top of my head, I don't know, but I can tell you that I rebuilt a B motor in my father's basement. He and I carried the long block* up the stairs to the driveway suspended on a 2X4 by a chain around the rocker shaft. I wold peg that entire assembly at no more than 300 lbs. tops. Probably less. *Complete engine ready to run except: no oil, no valve cover and no manifolds. Rick On Mon, Aug 18, 2008 at 10:36 PM, wrote: > Greetings fellow MG persons! > What is the weight of our beloved mg motors? I'm thinking 450lbs or so. > Mgb and MGa should be pretty close. > > With, without transmission. > what if I use two coats of paint on the block? > Mines kind of dusty right now, too. That's gotta add some weight to it! > Not soaking wet, though. > Enough. > Thanks in advance. > Eric > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Aug 19 01:52:58 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 08:52:58 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] engine weight References: <081920080536.5632.48AA5BD300084AD80000160022165499769F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00ab01c901d0$aff16cf0$0200a8c0@Three> >From the Leyland Workshop Manual the 3-main engine, dry, with clutch, is 358lb. I'd expect the 5-main to be only slightly heavier than that. The gearbox is 78lb, probably non-OD but not specified. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- What is the weight of our beloved mg motors? I'm thinking 450lbs or so. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Aug 19 05:52:26 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 04:52:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] engine weight Message-ID: <655912.36464.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Fully dressed engine and transmission (non OD) is 468 pounds, according to this gent - http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/forums/post/8073.aspx Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: "cyberemp at comcast.net" To: MG LIST Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 1:36:19 AM Subject: [Mgs] engine weight Greetings fellow MG persons! What is the weight of our beloved mg motors? I'm thinking 450lbs or so. Mgb and MGa should be pretty close. With, without transmission. what if I use two coats of paint on the block? Mines kind of dusty right now, too. That's gotta add some weight to it! Not soaking wet, though. Enough. Thanks in advance. Eric You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From rkunst at c-k.com Tue Aug 19 13:16:41 2008 From: rkunst at c-k.com (Ray Kunst) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 14:16:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... In-Reply-To: <010701c901a4$80254400$25690143@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: Hello, The HIF44 Conversion Kit from Moss says... The original air filter can be modified by fitting a fabricated adapter plate. Can you tell me what actually needs to be fabricated? Is it easy to do? I would like to keep my car as stock looking as possible. Thanks, Ray On 8/18/08 9:37 PM, "riverside" wrote: > The best direct replacement carb for the MGB single Zienth-Stromberg that I > have found is the SU HIF 44 offered by Moss Motors. A direct bolt-on and > mayby a little pricy, but I know people who have spent that much on trying > to keep their ZS carb working. Just add a handchoke cable and your carb > problems are over. I have installed seveal with excellant results. > Ron, in the midwest. From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Aug 19 13:39:27 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 12:39:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E7205C3@kb1.mossmotors.com> Ray: The front and back plates of the factory air box were replaced with ones drilled to match the HIF6/44 bolt pattern. It was not an easy job and required welding, but made the conversion look totally stock. Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Ray Kunst > Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 12:17 PM > To: justbrits at comcast.net; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a > Weber DGV for 79 MGB... > > Hello, > The HIF44 Conversion Kit from Moss says... > > The original air filter can be modified by fitting a > fabricated adapter plate. > > Can you tell me what actually needs to be fabricated? > Is it easy to do? > I would like to keep my car as stock looking as possible. > > Thanks, > Ray From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Aug 19 16:27:48 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 15:27:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... Message-ID: <825040.73366.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Joe Curto wanted $250 plus shipping (and I assume tax) to rebuild my Z-S and wouldn't even guarantee that the automatic choke would work. If I had to replace that carb and wanted a stock look, I'd definitely consider this solution. BTW, I was pretty amazed at the condition of the float chamber plug and seal on my Z-S carb - I had to replace them due to leakage. Take a look at the picture below. The old plug was no more than 3 years old. http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8180002.jpg Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: riverside To: MGALUVR at aol.com; justbrits at comcast.net; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:37:17 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... The best direct replacement carb for the MGB single Zienth-Stromberg that I have found is the SU HIF 44 offered by Moss Motors. A direct bolt-on and mayby a little pricy, but I know people who have spent that much on trying to keep their ZS carb working. Just add a handchoke cable and your carb problems are over. I have installed seveal with excellant results. Ron, in the midwest. ----- Original Message---- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:10 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... > Hello, > > > Well....It sat in my garage for about two years without any > attention...and > I think my gas tank had some rust in it.....the first couple of gallons of > gas that the fuel pump supplied to the carb was darker than the strongest > iced > tea that you have ever seen.....after pulling the fuel line and continuous > pumping it finally came out clear....but I think the carb now has a full > dose > of the crap that was in the fuel line (or rust in the gas tank)...I hate > the > Zenith Stromberg units anyway....They are a piece of crap...anyone have a > solution to this problem....how about a new or recently rebuilt Weber DGV > or some > other alternative.....Let me know..........Thanks....Bill in Southwest > Missouri........ From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com Wed Aug 20 09:31:18 2008 From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 11:31:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Rear Suspension/axle Message-ID: <76664a460808200831g7ab95d91xff5fba372da9e8b5@mail.gmail.com> Is it true that the rear is only held in place by the leaf spring attachment points? I'm getting ready to flip the car over and would hate to have to flip it back because I missed a bolt. Looks like the front is only held on by the 4 bolts in the engine bay and I already got those. - Steve From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Aug 20 09:42:06 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 08:42:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Rear Suspension/axle Message-ID: <482803.34877.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I assume you've removed the shocks, propshaft and retaining straps - if so, then your statement is true. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Steve To: MG LIST Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 11:31:18 AM Subject: [Mgs] Rear Suspension/axle Is it true that the rear is only held in place by the leaf spring attachment points? I'm getting ready to flip the car over and would hate to have to flip it back because I missed a bolt. Looks like the front is only held on by the 4 bolts in the engine bay and I already got those. - Steve You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From bobmgtd at comcast.net Wed Aug 20 15:24:46 2008 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:24:46 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] What size speaker fits the MGB doors? Message-ID: <000601c9030b$f895f2f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> What size speaker fits the "knock-out holes" in the Moss door panels? I want to replace the speakers I have with something that can over come highway wind noise without distorting. Any recommendations? Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 20 15:47:32 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:47:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] What size speaker fits the MGB doors? In-Reply-To: <000601c9030b$f895f2f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: I don't know about the Moss panels, but I don't see how you could go much bigger than 5 inch. But in this position, overcoming the wind noise is pretty much impossible. You are pumping all the sound into your left thigh, while your ears are up in the turbulence. I personally find the sound moderately intelligible for talk (baseball games) at high volume, but useless for music as I can only hear the left channel, with almost no treble and distorted bass. At neighborhood speeds, it's OK. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/20/08 2:24 PM, Bob Donahue at bobmgtd at comcast.net wrote: > What size speaker fits the "knock-out holes" in the Moss door panels? I want > to replace the speakers I have with something that can over come highway wind > noise without distorting. Any recommendations? > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana From ricjohnsondm at msn.com Wed Aug 20 17:33:29 2008 From: ricjohnsondm at msn.com (Ric Johnson) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 18:33:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] WTB - MGB 18GK Crank & Cam Message-ID: We have a newer member here in the Iowa British Car Club who has just been informed by his machinist that his '71 MGB 18GK crankshaft is cracked and his camshaft is extremely worn. He would prefer to buy used if anyone might have such laying about. Thanks in advance, Ric Johnson Des Moines, Iowa Webmaster www.iowabritishcarclub.com '71 MGB, '74 MGB-GT, '75 MGB From bobmgtd at comcast.net Wed Aug 20 17:46:59 2008 From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 19:46:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] What size speaker fits the MGB doors? References: Message-ID: <000a01c9031f$0a53bfa0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> This is exactly the problem I'm having. If I turn up the volume enough to hear the music over the wind, the bass is badly distorted. I used to have a regular radio in the dash, and I solved the distortion problem by turning the bass down. Now I am running a GPS/MP3 unit through an amplifier that has no tone controls, so I can't turn down the bass. I'm hoping to find speakers (the same size) that make more volume without distortion. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Heim" To: "MG List" Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 5:47 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] What size speaker fits the MGB doors? >I don't know about the Moss panels, but I don't see how you could go much > bigger than 5 inch. But in this position, overcoming the wind noise is > pretty much impossible. You are pumping all the sound into your left > thigh, > while your ears are up in the turbulence. I personally find the sound > moderately intelligible for talk (baseball games) at high volume, but > useless for music as I can only hear the left channel, with almost no > treble > and distorted bass. > > At neighborhood speeds, it's OK. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > on 8/20/08 2:24 PM, Bob Donahue at bobmgtd at comcast.net wrote: > >> What size speaker fits the "knock-out holes" in the Moss door panels? I >> want >> to replace the speakers I have with something that can over come highway >> wind >> noise without distorting. Any recommendations? >> >> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) >> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net >> Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 >> 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 >> Member: NEMGTR #11470 >> NAMGBR # 7-3336 >> Hoosier MGB Club >> Olde Octagons of Indiana From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Aug 20 17:54:54 2008 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:54:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] What size speaker fits the MGB doors? In-Reply-To: <000a01c9031f$0a53bfa0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E720955@kb1.mossmotors.com> Bob: There are a number of ways to get around this. Auto stereo shops have "bass blockers" which are capacitors designed to limit the bass going to the speakers. The best fix, which I've seen on other lists is to source an under seat sub woofer from a Subaru. From what I can find out, this will fit even under an MGB seat and provide lots of bass feel without straining the door speakers. Put bass blockers on the door speakers, then mount a pair of surface mount tweeters up high to get a lot better clarity. Just a thought. I was able to cut out the original 4" factory speaker holes and install 5" speakers on my TR8 which used the same speakers as on the late MGB. The speaker diameter and depth are critical, so you can't go with a really high output long throw speaker that has a big magnet. Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bob Donahue > Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 4:47 PM > To: mgs > Subject: Re: [Mgs] What size speaker fits the MGB doors? > > This is exactly the problem I'm having. If I turn up the > volume enough to hear the music over the wind, the bass is > badly distorted. I used to have a regular radio in the dash, > and I solved the distortion problem by turning the bass down. > Now I am running a GPS/MP3 unit through an amplifier that has > no tone controls, so I can't turn down the bass. I'm hoping > to find speakers (the same size) that make more volume > without distortion. > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Aug 21 09:25:22 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:25:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Small Stuff.... Message-ID: <295109.28607.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ...while waiting for parts to arrive.... http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From leylandauto at yahoo.com Fri Aug 22 14:34:12 2008 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:34:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe Message-ID: <999772.79733.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If you are out there or someone has her contact info could you email me back offlist? A friend has a tech question that she should be able to answer. I thought I had her email address but I am not finding it right now. Carl French From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Aug 23 14:38:44 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 13:38:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] O Happy Day! Message-ID: <218626.62737.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> 1 year and 17 days after I pulled the engine from the '76 B, today, it was fired up! As was I....... I replaced the little section of fuel hose above the bulkhead - the original had all sorts of cracks on the back side that couldn't be seen when installed. Then, hooked up the battery to the van, removed the spark plug wires and cranked it. After a few minutes of cranking, the oil pressure gauge crept upwards! Fuel system was tight, so I hooked up the plugs, got back in the driver's seat, crossed my fingers - and it turned about half the flywheel and started up! The idle is a little high, even after running for a few minutes, so I need to mess with that. I may actually have the throttle cable too tight. Gonna check that tomorrow as I'm going out shortly. But needless to say, I'm really excited! It's going on the road tomorrow after I bleed the brakes, and I am going to have to get the battery checked out and replace the positive cable clamp (it's cracked). But I'm really psyched! Video of it running - http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view¤t=P8230014.flv http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view¤t=P8230015.flv Thanks to everyone for all of your help getting this beast back in running order! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer (Resurrected!!) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From ddarby at centurytel.net Sat Aug 23 16:02:02 2008 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 17:02:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] O Happy Day! References: <218626.62737.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <19B451035EFA4FA88F52DE9D22A816E3@toshibauser> Hear! Hear! Bully for you! David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan DiBiase" To: ; "MG List" Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 3:38 PM Subject: [Mgs] O Happy Day! > > Video of it running - > > http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view¤t=P8230014.flv > > http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/?action=view¤t=P8230015.flv > > Thanks to everyone for all of your help getting this beast back in running > order! > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer (Resurrected!!) > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From xyzabcde at earthlink.net Sat Aug 23 19:56:06 2008 From: xyzabcde at earthlink.net (Denise Thorpe) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 21:56:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe References: Message-ID: <017001c9058c$93473ed0$5aeb9904@S0028025559> Hi Carl, I'm lurking on the digest these days. With all of the MG gurus on this list, what tech question could only I answer? Denise Thorpe xyzabcde at earthlink.net These days: 2 '67 MGBs '85 245 Turbo '95 Toyota Tercel '95 Ford E-150 Van > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:34:12 -0700 (PDT) > From: Carl French > Subject: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe > To: mg list , MG-MGB > Message-ID: <999772.79733.qm at web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > If you are out there or someone has her contact info could you email me > back offlist? A friend has a tech question that she should be able to > answer. > I thought I had her email address but I am not finding it right now. > Carl French From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Aug 24 16:09:47 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 15:09:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... Message-ID: <932051.92880.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Well, didn't meet my goal of driving the car around the block today. I bled the brakes without issue, although it took me a couple of wacks are each corner to get the air out. The driver's side rear brake isn't real strong, so I will have to see what's up with that. But I figured I had enough braking power for a spin around the block. Took the tires out to fill them up, then put 'em on and lowered the car. One last check of oil, coolant, dashpot oil, and then my sons, wife, daughter and several of my son's friend's came out to watch the big event! Of course, the car wouldn't start! It would crank then make a loud 'clicking' sound and stop. Only thing I could figure was that the fan belt was a bit loose so the alternator was slipping. So I tightened the belt, and sure enough, it started right up! So we unhooked the jumper cables, but when I stepped on the brake, the idle dropped to almost nothing. When I released the brakes, it jumped up again but eventually the car stalled. When we tried to jump it again, we again got that half-crank then loud clicking. At that point, I decided to call it a day. I am going to get the battery charged tomorrow, and also change the battery clamp (which has a crack in it so it is a bit loose) and then, once I know the charging system is good, going to try it again. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 24 16:55:30 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 15:55:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... In-Reply-To: <932051.92880.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I forget, does the 76 have a brake booster? You might have a vacuum leak there. on 8/24/08 3:09 PM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote: > Well, didn't meet my goal of driving the car around the block today. > > I bled the brakes without issue, although it took me a couple of wacks are > each corner to get the air out. The driver's side > rear brake isn't real strong, so I will have to see what's up with that. But I > figured I had enough braking power for a spin > around the block. > > Took the tires out to fill them up, then put 'em on and lowered the car. One > last check of oil, coolant, dashpot oil, and then > my sons, wife, daughter and several of my son's friend's came out to watch the > big event! Of course, the car wouldn't start! > It would crank then make a loud 'clicking' sound and stop. Only thing I could > figure was that the fan belt was a bit loose > so the alternator was slipping. So I tightened the belt, and sure enough, it > started right up! So we unhooked the jumper cables, > but when I stepped on the brake, the idle dropped to almost nothing. When I > released the brakes, it jumped up again but > eventually the car stalled. When we tried to jump it again, we again got that > half-crank then loud clicking. > > At that point, I decided to call it a day. I am going to get the battery > charged tomorrow, and also change the battery clamp > (which has a crack in it so it is a bit loose) and then, once I know the > charging system is good, going to try it again. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From shop at justbrits.com Sun Aug 24 18:12:22 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 18:12:22 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Sounds EXACTLY like it Max (and Dan)!!!! Are ALL the vac hose(s) hooked up CORRECTLY, Dan??? Might wanna incest in a $20 batt. charger!! From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Aug 24 17:43:10 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:43:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... Message-ID: <553137.49561.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ---- Original Message ---- From: Ed's Shop To: MG List Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 8:12:22 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... <> Sounds EXACTLY like it Max (and Dan)!!!! Are ALL the vac hose(s) hooked up CORRECTLY, Dan??? Might wanna incest in a $20 batt. charger!! ------------------------------------------------- "Incest", Ed? Hmmmmmm! Yes, it does have the booster... I will check the hose to make sure it's hooked up right and it doesn't have any cracks. I have it hooked up to a fitting on the manifold which I am pretty sure is correct... You can see it in this picture - http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8180003.jpg Thanks, guys. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From battanhr at comcast.net Sun Aug 24 18:02:17 2008 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 17:02:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV for 79 MGB... In-Reply-To: <825040.73366.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <825040.73366.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8BF5428AB9644F18963F66B1D2AE80D6@xps410> Bill, when I purchased my '79 'B', it had been de-smogged and a new Weber "Outlaw" DGES carb had been installed. This a 2-bbl, 38/38 carb. Once the proper jets had been installed, it has been a wonderful carb setup. My throttle response is great, and the gas milage is about 28 mpg on the highway. Howard in WA > From: > To: ; > Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:10 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Looking for a rebuilt Zenith Stromberg...or a Weber DGV > for 79 MGB... > > >> Hello, >> >> >> Well....It sat in my garage for about two years without any >> attention...and >> I think my gas tank had some rust in it.....the first couple of gallons >> of >> gas that the fuel pump supplied to the carb was darker than the >> strongest >> iced >> tea that you have ever seen.....after pulling the fuel line and >> continuous >> pumping it finally came out clear....but I think the carb now has a full >> dose >> of the crap that was in the fuel line (or rust in the gas tank)...I hate >> the >> Zenith Stromberg units anyway....They are a piece of crap...anyone have >> a >> solution to this problem....how about a new or recently rebuilt Weber >> DGV >> or some >> other alternative.....Let me know..........Thanks....Bill in Southwest From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sun Aug 24 18:29:25 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 17:29:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... Message-ID: <400010.27847.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ----- Original Message ---- From: Ed's Shop To: MG List Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 8:12:22 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... <> Sounds EXACTLY like it Max (and Dan)!!!! Are ALL the vac hose(s) hooked up CORRECTLY, Dan??? Might wanna incest in a $20 batt. charger!! _______________________________________________ I actually just looked at the hose, looks like there might be a slight crack in it. Not sure if it goes all the way through but I will try and repair it and see what happens. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From shop at justbrits.com Sun Aug 24 19:35:32 2008 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 19:35:32 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Back to Earth.... In-Reply-To: <553137.49561.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <<"Incest", Ed? Hmmmmmm!>> FAT fingers, Dan!! REPLACE it. Reinforced fuel line 'should' be OK. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 25 06:48:24 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 05:48:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Open Carfax Account? Message-ID: <507776.21530.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Anyone with an open account that could run 3VWRF71K75M625544 for me? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From kger at plex.com Mon Aug 25 07:51:00 2008 From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 09:51:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed Message-ID: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> Saturday I got the gumption to get back in the garage and work on my '79 B again. I've had a few niggling things that needed addressed, and one big one: The rear brakes would not get brake fluid to them. I brought this problem up here before, and consensus pointed to the brake master cylinder being the culprit. I installed a new master cylinder and proceeded to retry bleeding the system. The fronts took a lot longer than I would have thought, but eventually they spewed air-free fluid. I was encouraged. That didn't last long. The right rear still would not get fluid after more than half an hour of pedal pumping. There *is* a short column of fluid in the rubber tube I have hooked up to the valve, and it is growing at an imperceptible rate. I have speed-bleeder valves installed, so I don't think that little bit of fluid is a result of gravity; I think *something* is happening, but it should not be taking this long to pump fluid to the rear brakes, should it? As if that wasn't enough, I noticed another problem while I was under the car. I'll hit that in another post. -- Keith G. From kger at plex.com Mon Aug 25 07:58:16 2008 From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 09:58:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Leaking fuel pump question Message-ID: <48B28238.11968.1825D2@kger.plex.com> While under the car ('79 B) attempting to bleed the rear brakes, I noticed a small leak on my fuel pump. I'll try to describe it: The short cylinder where the fuel line attaches is getting wet. The wetness starts immediately after I wipe it clean, but it looks like it is coming from the bottom of the taper where the fuel line attaches. The tapered area itself is not getting wet, just the cylindrical shape below that. (I meant to try to get a picture of this.) In thinking about it now, I realized that the leak may be coming from the top side which can't be seen while laying under the car. Does this sound like something that can be repaired with a new seal, washer, or something? I really don't know how long this fuel pump has been on the car, or even if it's an original. Some of the fuel- related lines have been replaced, but I don't know about the pump. -- Keith G. From rbgosling at googlemail.com Mon Aug 25 07:59:38 2008 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:59:38 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed In-Reply-To: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> References: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: <9f2527520808250659w5a92c2cbncc6f641b311d2042@mail.gmail.com> Ahh - Speedbleeders. That's your problem. I love 'em, but they are no good if there is a LOT of air in the system. They take a bit of pressure to overcome the spring-loaded valve inside - if the system is full of air, it can easily compress by the amount of a pedal push without building up enough pressure to open the speedbleeder valve. You'll need to remove them and try another method - Eezibleed, traditional two-man method with standard nipples or just a finger over the hole during the pedal lift, or just removing the bleeders and pumping away until something comes squirting out. Once you have some fluid coming out at the cylinders you can replace the Speedbleeders and proceed normally. Hope I'm right, and this helps! Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Aug 25 08:09:47 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 07:09:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed Message-ID: <823681.98513.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Keith, having just done this yesterday, here is what I did (I have regular bleeder valves installed). I started at the passenger's side rear, with the master cylinder top off. Had my daughter pump it while I monitored the flow. Got some fluid but not a 'solid tube' into the jar I was using.... So went and did the driver's rear. Same thing. Did the fronts got those bled out partially as well. Went back to the rear, and this time got it all out. Worked my way around the car again. It took me 2 (and sometimes 3) tries to get most of the air out, working my way around the car and (obviously) filling the MC back up after every wheel. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Keith G. To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:51:00 AM Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed Saturday I got the gumption to get back in the garage and work on my '79 B again. I've had a few niggling things that needed addressed, and one big one: The rear brakes would not get brake fluid to them. I brought this problem up here before, and consensus pointed to the brake master cylinder being the culprit. I installed a new master cylinder and proceeded to retry bleeding the system. The fronts took a lot longer than I would have thought, but eventually they spewed air-free fluid. I was encouraged. That didn't last long. The right rear still would not get fluid after more than half an hour of pedal pumping. There *is* a short column of fluid in the rubber tube I have hooked up to the valve, and it is growing at an imperceptible rate. I have speed-bleeder valves installed, so I don't think that little bit of fluid is a result of gravity; I think *something* is happening, but it should not be taking this long to pump fluid to the rear brakes, should it? As if that wasn't enough, I noticed another problem while I was under the car. I'll hit that in another post. -- Keith G. You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Mon Aug 25 09:33:04 2008 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 09:33:04 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed In-Reply-To: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> References: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229F7E2@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I had this problem - maybe even the exact same problem. I couldn't get the right rear to bleed at all. Eventually I got it to at least seep rather than spew. I finally started to trace the line figuring some blockage was the problem. What I found was the steel line that runs across the axle to the brake had a small pinhole in it. It was located on the curvature running across the top of the axle and the hole being on the downside facing the axle. There was not any leakage - just enough to moisten the pinhole. What it was doing was pulling air into the line. Either way, its probably a matter of tracing the brake lines and undoing couplers to see where the brake fluid is and where it isn't. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith G. Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:51 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed Saturday I got the gumption to get back in the garage and work on my '79 B again. I've had a few niggling things that needed addressed, and one big one: The rear brakes would not get brake fluid to them. I brought this problem up here before, and consensus pointed to the brake master cylinder being the culprit. I installed a new master cylinder and proceeded to retry bleeding the system. The fronts took a lot longer than I would have thought, but eventually they spewed air-free fluid. I was encouraged. That didn't last long. The right rear still would not get fluid after more than half an hour of pedal pumping. There *is* a short column of fluid in the rubber tube I have hooked up to the valve, and it is growing at an imperceptible rate. I have speed-bleeder valves installed, so I don't think that little bit of fluid is a result of gravity; I think *something* is happening, but it should not be taking this long to pump fluid to the rear brakes, should it? As if that wasn't enough, I noticed another problem while I was under the car. I'll hit that in another post. -- Keith G. _______________________________________________ From Mike at sportscarslimited.net Mon Aug 25 09:51:32 2008 From: Mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 08:51:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed In-Reply-To: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: Check the steel line from the tee connection to the wheel cylinder. We frequently find them crushed, usually by a tow truck operator with a great steel hook. Mike Michael Singleton Sportscars Ltd 10170 Croydon Way Suite M Sacramento, CA 95826 Mike at sportscarslimited.net (916)366-0330 www.sportscarslimited.net -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mike=sportscarslimited.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mike=sportscarslimited.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith G. Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:51 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed Saturday I got the gumption to get back in the garage and work on my '79 B again. I've had a few niggling things that needed addressed, and one big one: The rear brakes would not get brake fluid to them. I brought this problem up here before, and consensus pointed to the brake master cylinder being the culprit. I installed a new master cylinder and proceeded to retry bleeding the system. The fronts took a lot longer than I would have thought, but eventually they spewed air-free fluid. I was encouraged. That didn't last long. The right rear still would not get fluid after more than half an hour of pedal pumping. There *is* a short column of fluid in the rubber tube I have hooked up to the valve, and it is growing at an imperceptible rate. I have speed-bleeder valves installed, so I don't think that little bit of fluid is a result of gravity; I think *something* is happening, but it should not be taking this long to pump fluid to the rear brakes, should it? As if that wasn't enough, I noticed another problem while I was under the car. I'll hit that in another post. -- Keith G. You are subscribed as mike at sportscarslimited.net Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.7/1631 - Release Date: 8/24/2008 12:15 PM From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 25 12:48:00 2008 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 11:48:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed In-Reply-To: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> References: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: For what is it worth I have had many cases where there is a blockage right at the bleeder screw at a caliper/wheel cylinder. Before you go 7 kinds of crazy, you might want to unscrew the bleeder off of the caliper and use a needle or ice pick make sure the hole is free and clear into the wheel cylinder. Also did you bench bleed the master before installing it? If you did not this could be a large part of the problem. > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Aug 26 02:11:36 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:11:36 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Back to Earth.... References: <932051.92880.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01d301c90757$050f5590$0200a8c0@Three> Sounds like a bad connection in the cranking circuit i.e. battery to body or solenoid, and body to engine. The fan belt and alternator are irrelevant when cranking as the alternator only starts to charge when the engine is running and has been revved over 900 or so rpm. A tendency to stall when the brakes are applied usually means there is a defect *inside* the brake booster resulting in a vacuum leak when the brakes are applied. If the leak were anywhere in the plumbing between manifold and booster it would be affecting the running of the engine all the time. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Well, didn't meet my goal of driving the car around the block today. . __,_._,___ From eric at erickson.on.net Tue Aug 26 10:13:02 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 01:43:02 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG photos Message-ID: <6BF4AEE8-4C81-480C-8294-9A5F6ED4E8E1@erickson.on.net> The photographer at the track the other day gave me all the shots he took of my car, but he also included a massive number of photos he took at our annual MG Challenge event earlier this year (these were primarily taken at our hillclimb event). I thought you guys might enjoy lots of MGs doing sporty stuff! http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/challenge08-1/ http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/challenge08-2/ http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/challenge08-3/ Enjoy! Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Aug 26 12:07:52 2008 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:07:52 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? Message-ID: <40b437200808261107s381dd687wadce0d16cb9455ef@mail.gmail.com> My car (MGA with original generator/regulator) is clearly not charging the battery, so I need to investigate the charging system. It may be dirty contacts in the regulator, or it may be worn out brushes in the generator. In order to know which to investigate first, it would be useful if I knew the expected life of a set of brushes in a generator. Regards, Simon From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Aug 26 13:18:48 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:18:48 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed References: <48B28084.1039.117B76@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: <70728885F0234677894DD6BB4C754630@uw471de61b465c> When you tackle a brake system fault, it may well be worth to clean the inner brakelines. I was lucky to have all brake lines from the GT when restoring it. So I discovered that over the years there is a lot of dirt contaminated into the brake lines. I decided to replace all flex hoses and flush the metal brake lines with an alcohol cleaning fluid. What a dirt came from these lines was enormous! After reassembling all brake lines and having replaced the flex lines and rear slave cylinders bleeding was a piece of cake. Beware this dirt also contaminates into the drum brake rear cylinders over the years and may well clog the bleed hole. 4wiw Cheers, Hans 71 BGT finally driving well after engine overhaul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Ewald" To: "Keith G." Cc: Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 8:48 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brakes won't bleed > For what is it worth I have had many cases where there is a blockage right > at the bleeder screw at a caliper/wheel cylinder. Before you go 7 kinds > of > crazy, you might want to unscrew the bleeder off of the caliper and use a > needle or ice pick make sure the hole is free and clear into the wheel > cylinder. > Also did you bench bleed the master before installing it? If you did not > this could be a large part of the problem. From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Aug 26 13:23:30 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:23:30 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? References: <40b437200808261107s381dd687wadce0d16cb9455ef@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <5437A4780BDB43058991872BF7D427C2@uw471de61b465c> I would say 50 K miles would be possible. Point maybe, that your brushes may not be worn perhaps. Dirt inside the brush holders might have caused, that the brush are not moving freely anymore and by this not making proper contact with the rotor of the generator. Not charging also may have causes elsewhere like a defective or misadjusted regulator unit. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Matthews" To: "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 8:07 PM Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? > My car (MGA with original generator/regulator) is clearly not > charging the battery, so I need to investigate the charging system. > > It may be dirty contacts in the regulator, or it may be worn out > brushes in the generator. In order to know which to investigate first, > it would be useful if I knew the expected life of a set of brushes in > a generator. > > Regards, > Simon From jello at cableone.net Tue Aug 26 13:33:19 2008 From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 12:33:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? Message-ID: <4396.1219779199@cableone.net> I'll chime in with my past experience. I ran through about 4 generators in about 2 years. There were several issues. First, rebuilt units were not as good as original. Second, getting the generator belt too tight is a real issue, as the generator bearing surface isn't that great. Third, regulators are a common failure point (especially external regulators - which I think all generators and the first couple or 3 years of alternators had). As a result, I ended up eliminating my generator, and replacing it with an alternator. Further, I fully eliminated the regulator in doing so, as the alternator I used is internally regulated. I know not everyone wants to make this change, but it really is the better system to have - although not original on early cars. Phil Bates '67MGB with an alternator '58 MGA with an alternator On Tue Aug 26 21:23 , "Hans Duinhoven" sent: I would say 50 K miles would be possible. Point maybe, that your brushes may not be worn perhaps. Dirt inside the brush holders might have caused, that the brush are not moving freely anymore and by this not making proper contact with the rotor of the generator. Not charging also may have causes elsewhere like a defective or misadjusted regulator unit. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Matthews" To: "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 8:07 PM Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? > My car (MGA with original generator/regulator) is clearly not > charging the battery, so I need to investigate the charging system. > > It may be dirty contacts in the regulator, or it may be worn out > brushes in the generator. In order to know which to investigate first, > it would be useful if I knew the expected life of a set of brushes in > a generator. > > Regards, > Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as jello at cableo ne.net Mgs at autox.te am.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Aug 26 13:29:24 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:29:24 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? Message-ID: Rui Gigante reports that the original generator in his MGA needed brushes after 270,000 km of use! Translation: they last a long time. Personally, I have found that corrosion is more of an issue than brushes wear. Rick B ------Original Message------ From: Simon Matthews Sender: mgs-bounces+rolindsay=yahoo.com at autox.team.net To: MG List Sent: Aug 26, 2008 1:07 PM Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? My car (MGA with original generator/regulator) is clearly not charging the battery, so I need to investigate the charging system. It may be dirty contacts in the regulator, or it may be worn out brushes in the generator. In order to know which to investigate first, it would be useful if I knew the expected life of a set of brushes in a generator. Regards, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From mgbob at juno.com Tue Aug 26 14:12:40 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 16:12:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? Message-ID: <20080826.161250.2380.13.MGBOB@juno.com> Simon, One set in my TD lasted 25M miles or so, the second about 35M. Easy to check the things, though, so do that first. What you are looking for is clearance between the spring and the guide of the brush. If the spring is touching the guide, the brush is worn down to the point that it's not getting good contact. The procedure for adjusting the regulator seems intimidating, but it works just as described in the workshop manual. Bob On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:07:52 -0700 "Simon Matthews" writes: > My car (MGA with original generator/regulator) is clearly not > charging the battery, so I need to investigate the charging system. > > It may be dirty contacts in the regulator, or it may be worn out > brushes in the generator. In order to know which to investigate > first, > it would be useful if I knew the expected life of a set of brushes > in > a generator. > > Regards, > Simon ____________________________________________________________ Click here for top quality Spyware removers. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mEzAnTwSJBS2qP6RBdfo1IGIYgZk8YUkUDFxS1VHgjLLULT/ From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Aug 26 16:39:28 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 15:39:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG photos Message-ID: <658828.65701.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Nice pics of you getting a little squirrely, Eric! Haven't you picked a number yet? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Eric To: MG List Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:13:02 PM Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG photos The photographer at the track the other day gave me all the shots he took of my car, but he also included a massive number of photos he took at our annual MG Challenge event earlier this year (these were primarily taken at our hillclimb event). I thought you guys might enjoy lots of MGs doing sporty stuff! http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/challenge08-1/ http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/challenge08-2/ http://www.erickson.on.net/mgracing/challenge08-3/ Enjoy! Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From Weberstevej at aol.com Tue Aug 26 20:55:53 2008 From: Weberstevej at aol.com (Weberstevej at aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:55:53 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGA Wiring and Dash Message-ID: I'm nearing the end of an eleven year ground up rebuild of my '59 MGA. I am ready to install the main wiring harness and/or the dash. I did not disassemble this car but acquired it already in boxes. I have further complicated the process by fabricating a wooden burled walnut dash, which I realize will require some additional ground wiring. I have been to Barney Gaylord's web site and read his article on "Wiring Harness Replacement". My questions are as follows: 1. Considering my rebuild, is the main wiring harness installed in the car first? 2. When installing the dash, are all of the gauges, switches and cables mounted to the dash prior to installation to the car? 3. And after item 2., is the main wire harness connected/wired to the dash? 4. Does anyone recommend using dielectric grease at "most" electrical connections and/or the use of Loctite on applicable terminals to improve wiring integrity? Thanks Steve Weber **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Aug 27 01:45:47 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:45:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? References: <40b437200808261107s381dd687wadce0d16cb9455ef@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00d801c9081c$2dcdd360$0200a8c0@Three> Test the dynamo/generator itself by removing the wiring from it and connecting its F and D terminals together. Connect a voltmeter on its 20v scale between this link and ground. Start the engine and *slowly* raise the revs. The voltage should rise towards 20v, it should do this by 1000rpm, and don't exceed 20v. If it does that the dynamo itself looks to be OK, so any non-charging is down to wiring or control box. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- My car (MGA with original generator/regulator) is clearly not charging the battery, so I need to investigate the charging system. From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Aug 27 04:31:33 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:01:33 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG photos In-Reply-To: <658828.65701.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <658828.65701.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 27/08/2008, at 8:09 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Nice pics of you getting a little squirrely, Eric! Haven't you > picked a number yet? > Yes, I hate it when they shots of the "wrong" side of my car - all the flag points and the timing tower are on the outside of the track (drivers' left) so we save the hassle and often only run with numbers of the left side of the car. I drive the car to and from the track and have to put the numbers on when I get there and remove the numbers when I leave. We are not allowed to drive on the roads with our numbers on (and the cops tend to pay closer attention to cars with numbers). Hey - look at the numbers on the windscreen. See, it does bug me :-) "Squirrely"... outbraked myself trying to outrun an Alfa with more grunt than I! Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From barrie at look.ca Wed Aug 27 08:31:15 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:31:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] How many miles should a generator brush set last? In-Reply-To: <20080826.161250.2380.13.MGBOB@juno.com> References: <20080826.161250.2380.13.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: There is a bod who makes solid state voltage regulators. He is going to make one for my 1955 Aston and he seems to have done an awful lot of these units - each customed to the gen/alt and fits inside the original core . I had hoped he would come on the British Car Cottage Industries web site (www.britcot.com) but he has not done so yet. He may be on next week At 04:12 PM 8/26/2008, Bob Howard wrote: >Simon, > One set in my TD lasted 25M miles or so, the second about 35M. > Easy to check the things, though, so do that first. What you are >looking for is clearance between the spring and the guide of the brush. >If the spring is touching the guide, the brush is worn down to the point >that it's not getting good contact. > The procedure for adjusting the regulator seems intimidating, but it >works just as described in the workshop manual. >Bob > >On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:07:52 -0700 "Simon Matthews" > writes: > > My car (MGA with original generator/regulator) is clearly not > > charging the battery, so I need to investigate the charging system. > > > > It may be dirty contacts in the regulator, or it may be worn out > > brushes in the generator. In order to know which to investigate > > first, > > it would be useful if I knew the expected life of a set of brushes > > in > > a generator. > > > > Regards, > > Simon >____________________________________________________________ >Click here for top quality Spyware removers. >http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mEzAnTwSJBS2qP6RBdfo1IGIYgZk8YUkUDFxS1VHgjLLULT/ >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From barrie at look.ca Wed Aug 27 14:40:50 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 16:40:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Shortened water pump Message-ID: Some while back I had a bog standard Rover V8 (Buick) P591 water pump shortened so it was 3" back to front. This allowed me to get in a BIG electric fan. I have had some people in the UK saying they could want some. So I am in the process of getting a quote for a batch. The size of the batch makes a big difference to price - and I wonder who else would be interested in such a unit. I have no idea of price but will no doubt will find out. So if you are interested please let me know soon .....and if you want more than one (spare!) Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From mg_garage at comcast.net Wed Aug 27 18:41:48 2008 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (Gordies Garage) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:41:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Word is plans to sell the MG TF in the American market have come to a complete halt. When China's Nanjing Automobile Group bought most of MG Rover in September 2005 and insisted that it would set up a factory in Ardmore, Oklahoma, to build knock-down kits of the TF to sell in the U.S. market. To say that the automotive world was more than a little skeptical is an understatement. There was no way in hell that the deal was ever going to materialize, and the company confirmed it online yesterday, according to Automotive News. As the editor of AE said, What part of assembling knock-down kits of British roadsters in Oklahoma - that were made in China - seemed like a good idea at the time? From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Aug 28 01:50:14 2008 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:50:14 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9f2527520808280050o46eecb90k5bf1443a35caec46@mail.gmail.com> The revised TF finally goes on sale in the UK next month, confounding a lot of people who said that would never happen either. It's a very good price too - about the same as the base model MX5 (Miata), but loaded with goodies including detachable hard-top. I imagine the biggest problem with selling them in the US (either built from CKD in Oklahoma, or imported from the UK or China) was the K-series engine. This was never homologated for use in the US, neither the independant MG Rover, nor BMW when they owned the company, could justify the trouble and expense of getting homologation. So it's most unlikely NAC/SAIC would be able to justify it either, particularly for a car whose design is now older than the MGB was at the time of the switch to rubber bumpers. This was one of the main reasons Lotus dropped the K-series engine in favour of Toyota power for the Elise and its derivatives. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) 2008/8/28 Gordies Garage > Word is plans to sell the MG TF in the American market have come to a > complete halt. When China's Nanjing Automobile Group bought most of MG > Rover > in September 2005 and insisted that it would set up a factory in Ardmore, > Oklahoma, to build knock-down kits of the TF to sell in the U.S. market. > To > say that the automotive world was more than a little skeptical is an > understatement. There was no way in hell that the deal was ever going to > materialize, and the company confirmed it online yesterday, according to > Automotive News. > > As the editor of AE said, What part of assembling knock-down kits of > British > roadsters in Oklahoma - that were made in China - seemed like a good idea > at > the time? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as rbgosling at googlemail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Aug 28 02:18:53 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:18:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: Message-ID: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> I agree it was never going to happen for a number of reasons, but what part of assembling 'British' roadsters in America from kits built in China *isn't* a good idea? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Word is plans to sell the MG TF in the American market have come to a complete halt. From eric at erickson.on.net Thu Aug 28 03:02:59 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:32:59 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5632F21B-BA33-4546-9724-C40BFE961822@erickson.on.net> On 28/08/2008, at 10:11 AM, Gordies Garage wrote: > > As the editor of AE said, What part of assembling knock-down kits of > British > roadsters in Oklahoma - that were made in China - seemed like a good > idea at > the time? > It worked for the MGB in Australia (at the Zetland, NSW factory). Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From palte at gmx.net Thu Aug 28 03:21:22 2008 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:21:22 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF in USA In-Reply-To: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <20080828092122.228000@gmx.net> > I agree it was never going to happen for a number of reasons, but what > part of > assembling 'British' roadsters in America from kits built in China *isn't* > a > good idea? > Labour cost, I guess.... -- Ist Ihr Browser Vista-kompatibel? Jetzt die neuesten Browser-Versionen downloaden: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/browser From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Aug 28 06:41:37 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 07:41:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> I thought it was a great idea. I'd love to have a TF. However, the original announcement was for the TF coupe not the roadster. Was the coupe ever made and sold? Or was it always just a concept/pre- production car? I'm hoping that SAIC will find its way and get MG back in the US. There has been near constant teasing since about '94 when the RV8 came out, and they started saying, "the next car" will come back. And the ZT and ZTT at MG2001 were just too cool. On Aug 28, 2008, at 3:18 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > I agree it was never going to happen for a number of reasons, but > what part of > assembling 'British' roadsters in America from kits built in China > *isn't* a > good idea? > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > Word is plans to sell the MG TF in the American market have come > to a > complete halt. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Aug 28 06:48:04 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 07:48:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF in USA In-Reply-To: <20080828092122.228000@gmx.net> References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <20080828092122.228000@gmx.net> Message-ID: On Aug 28, 2008, at 4:21 AM, Bert Palte wrote: >> I agree it was never going to happen for a number of reasons, but >> what >> part of >> assembling 'British' roadsters in America from kits built in China >> *isn't* >> a >> good idea? >> > > Labour cost, I guess.... As I remember it was going to be on tribal land in Ok, and probably would have had favorable labor relations. It was just a dumb announcement way too early in negotiations. From my casual observations, the Chinese play their cards close to the chest and don't like things handled in the media. When that press conference came out, it probably killed the deal. That's not saying that it would have happened otherwise. From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Aug 28 06:55:50 2008 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:55:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9f2527520808280555i7a4a837r1160a793e0a07330@mail.gmail.com> > "Was the coupe ever made and sold? Or was it always just a concept/pre- > production car?" > > It was never more than a concept. Development was under way when MG Rover went bust, not sure how far it had got. NAC/SAIC have considered producing it, as far as I know there are no definite plans to do so yet. Plans for a replacement for the MG TF are under way, so they are unlikely to put too much more effort into developing this car, or doing the necessary work to homologate it for the US. It's only got a few more years shelf life until its replacement is ready. Let's hope they have the sense to design that to be saleable in the US right from the start! But that will require either a new engine design or some significant development of the existing one. Richard & Sammy From barrie at look.ca Thu Aug 28 07:00:52 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:00:52 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> Message-ID: Please forgive me for my sins - but I just cannot see me ever buying a Chinese MG. No matter which way you look at it the MG strain will never pass on. Rolex watches are copied by Chinese manufacturers so if Rolex sold out to them then the "fakes" would be genuine Rolex watches - uh?. The idea of me looking at the build plate and seeing "Made in China" just gives me the shivers. Rather I would buy a Miata which as its own and genuine pedigree. And this from an ancient user of MGs - my first car was a brand new MG TD which I loved (and still do) and currently an MGB GT V8. At 08:41 AM 8/28/2008, Paul Root wrote: >I thought it was a great idea. I'd love to have a TF. > >However, the original announcement was for the TF coupe not the >roadster. > >Was the coupe ever made and sold? Or was it always just a concept/pre- >production >car? > >I'm hoping that SAIC will find its way and get MG back in the US. >There has been near constant >teasing since about '94 when the RV8 came out, and they started >saying, "the next car" will come back. > >And the ZT and ZTT at MG2001 were just too cool. > > >On Aug 28, 2008, at 3:18 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > > > I agree it was never going to happen for a number of reasons, but > > what part of > > assembling 'British' roadsters in America from kits built in China > > *isn't* a > > good idea? > > > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Word is plans to sell the MG TF in the American market have come > > to a > > complete halt. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > http://www.team.net/archive >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Aug 28 07:42:00 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:42:00 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> Message-ID: <3AC012C8-B022-45EB-9280-A8318E7BA5E2@gmail.com> Yes, it's a genuine MG. The Chinese bought the name and the technology. The British failed. Sorry, there's no way to sugar coat it. I'm not going to buy a bad car. But if they brought a car to the US, and it was comparable to the Mazda or Nissan that I might be considering at the time, the MG is going to get an emotional vote. My first MG was my first (car) love. My Datsun 510 was probably second. I've bought more Mazdas than anything else. Heck, I'd even buy a new Mini or, if Auto Express ever reported the truth, a new Triumph from BMW. Oh, I don't fit in a Miata, other than first generation. And those are getting too "old" :-) On Aug 28, 2008, at 8:00 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > > Please forgive me for my sins - but I just cannot see me ever buying > a Chinese MG. No matter which way you look at it the MG strain will > never pass on. Rolex watches are copied by Chinese manufacturers > so if Rolex sold out to them then the "fakes" would be genuine Rolex > watches - uh?. The idea of me looking at the build plate and > seeing "Made in China" just gives me the shivers. Rather I would > buy a Miata which as its own and genuine pedigree. And this from an > ancient user of MGs - my first car was a brand new MG TD which I > loved (and still do) and currently an MGB GT V8. > > > > At 08:41 AM 8/28/2008, Paul Root wrote: >> I thought it was a great idea. I'd love to have a TF. >> >> However, the original announcement was for the TF coupe not the >> roadster. >> >> Was the coupe ever made and sold? Or was it always just a concept/ >> pre- >> production >> car? >> >> I'm hoping that SAIC will find its way and get MG back in the US. >> There has been near constant >> teasing since about '94 when the RV8 came out, and they started >> saying, "the next car" will come back. >> >> And the ZT and ZTT at MG2001 were just too cool. >> >> >> On Aug 28, 2008, at 3:18 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: >> >> > I agree it was never going to happen for a number of reasons, but >> > what part of >> > assembling 'British' roadsters in America from kits built in China >> > *isn't* a >> > good idea? >> > >> > PaulH. >> > ----- Original Message ----- >> > Word is plans to sell the MG TF in the American market have come >> > to a >> > complete halt. >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> > >> > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com >> > >> > >> > Mgs at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> > >> > http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> >> You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca >> >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > http://www.britcot.com From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Aug 28 07:42:51 2008 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:42:51 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9f2527520808280642v514cb5d0ja6206c99f43bcf6b@mail.gmail.com> That's fair enough - there are plenty of varying opinions about on this subject, and you are far from alone! What if Rolex watches were designed in Switzerland, by Swiss engineers. They have a number of components manufactured by subcontractors around the world, including China. Those parts are then shipped to Switzerland for final assembly. Would that still be a Swiss watch? I'm not saying that's happening with Rolex (frankly I have no idea, probably not in their case), but that's the case for all sorts of consumer goods around the world. The MG TF on sale here next month is a car originally designed in Britain, and will be assembled in Britain, but from mostly Chinese-manufactured components. We've long ago been forced to give up caring who owns our major companies, as very few British companies are still British-owned. Supermarkets and some other chain stores, and some of the oil companies, are the only ones that spring to mind right now. The biggest British-owned car maker left is LTI, who make "London" taxis... Richard & Sammy 2008/8/28 Barrie Robinson > Please forgive me for my sins - but I just cannot see me ever buying > a Chinese MG. No matter which way you look at it the MG strain will > never pass on. Rolex watches are copied by Chinese manufacturers so > if Rolex sold out to them then the "fakes" would be genuine Rolex > watches - uh?. The idea of me looking at the build plate and seeing > "Made in China" just gives me the shivers. Rather I would buy a > Miata which as its own and genuine pedigree. And this from an > ancient user of MGs - my first car was a brand new MG TD which I > loved (and still do) and currently an MGB GT V8. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Aug 28 07:26:56 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:26:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> Message-ID: <020301c90914$939b1560$0200a8c0@Three> The TF Coupe or MG GT was first shown as a concept by MG Rover before they failed, with the 2.5 KV6 200bhp engine, no less. What's being produced is a roadster, 1.8 4-cylinder 135bhp, although new cars are promised. Even Longbridge is building cars that are more built-up than the MGB kits shipped to Australia (which was to avoid import duty), little more than finishing, possibly just those bits where UK regulations require different parts and systems to China. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- However, the original announcement was for the TF coupe not the roadster. Was the coupe ever made and sold? Or was it always just a concept/pre- production car? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Aug 28 08:15:20 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:15:20 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> <9f2527520808280642v514cb5d0ja6206c99f43bcf6b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000001c9091b$4153aea0$0200a8c0@Three> Speak for yourself! I care very much that virtually none of our gas or electricity supply, airports and goodness knows what else i.e. our basic infrastructure are no longer British-owned. Not being able to do anything about it is something else. As for not buying any MG made in China, probably the majority of the parts we buy for our existing MGs are made there. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- We've long ago been forced to give up caring who owns our major companies From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 28 09:00:21 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 10:00:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] No LBC -- THE FRONT FELL OFF Message-ID: <1BA1145DF09F4A32BBE1BACC05942C36@Larry> On August 19th 2007, an oil tanker off the coast of Australia split in two, dumping 20,000 tons of crude oil. Senator Collins, a member of the Australian Parliament, appeared on a TV news program to reassure the Australian public. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcU4t6zRAKg From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Aug 28 09:21:15 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:21:15 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] No LBC -- THE FRONT FELL OFF References: <1BA1145DF09F4A32BBE1BACC05942C36@Larry> Message-ID: <002601c90921$d10d72a0$0200a8c0@Three> And then see the first minute or so of http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWPwlMv8lNI&NR=1 :o))) ----- Original Message ----- On August 19th 2007, an oil tanker off the coast of Australia split in two, dumping 20,000 tons of crude oil. Senator Collins, a member of the Australian Parliament, appeared on a TV news program to reassure the Australian public. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcU4t6zRAKg _______________________________________________ From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Aug 28 09:28:20 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 10:28:20 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] No LBC -- THE FRONT FELL OFF In-Reply-To: <1BA1145DF09F4A32BBE1BACC05942C36@Larry> References: <1BA1145DF09F4A32BBE1BACC05942C36@Larry> Message-ID: <7E788137-61DD-48F2-9C9A-9422AB6DD21C@gmail.com> That's hilarious. There goes my idea for cardboard tanker ships. Dang. On Aug 28, 2008, at 10:00 AM, Larry Daniels wrote: > On August 19th 2007, an oil tanker off the coast of Australia split > in two, > dumping 20,000 tons of crude oil. > > Senator Collins, a member of the Australian Parliament, appeared on > a TV news > program to reassure the Australian public. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcU4t6zRAKg > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Aug 28 09:36:24 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:36:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts Message-ID: <20080828113624.TL6O9.86087.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> alright folks, my 71 "B" is acting up on me, within the last month there have been three occasions where I'm driving along (say at about 60) suddenly I get a whiff of gasoline odor, then the car's RPM drops and the car starts surging. When I pull over to the side of the road the car idles at about 500 and tries to die out, I've checked the dampers in the cabs, the weird thing is when I press the dampers in the engines RPM speed up (should be revere se) I've checked the floats, I have Grosse jets and they are free, I've change to my good spare distributor on the side of the road, after doing all those things the car starts to run fine again, then a few days or a week later it does it again, I'm stumped, any help?. should I look toward the fuel pump? Bernie 71 MGB From mgbob at juno.com Thu Aug 28 09:50:20 2008 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:50:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts Message-ID: <20080828.115020.1340.11.MGBOB@juno.com> One thing to check is that the vent line from the adsorbtion cannister to fuel tank is venting. If plugged, you can experience both lack of fuel and fuel being pushed into the adsorbtion cannister. Just blow on the two lines. One is fuel line and you should hear bubbling in the fuel tank. The other is the vent line and should blow easily but without sound. If, when you press the dampers down, RPM increases, that would indicate insufficient fuel or low level in the float bowl. Fuel pumps should be good for 60M miles or so. Bob On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:36:24 -0400 Bernd <1971mgb at cox.net> writes: > alright folks, my 71 "B" is acting up on me, within the last month > there have been three occasions where I'm driving along (say at > about 60) suddenly I get a whiff of gasoline odor, then the car's > RPM drops and the car starts surging. When I pull over to the side > of the road the car idles at about 500 and tries to die out, I've > checked the dampers in the cabs, the weird thing is when I press the > dampers in the engines RPM speed up (should be revere se) I've > checked the floats, I have Grosse jets and they are free, I've > change to my good spare distributor on the side of the road, after > doing all those things the car starts to run fine again, then a few > days or a week later it does it again, I'm stumped, any help?. > should I look toward the fuel pump? > Bernie > 71 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > ____________________________________________________________ Click here for free information on nursing degrees, up to $150/hour http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nEnk7LaIc0zS7DgSyQHaw3PrpvYD2CMvVPcpGWHv6N7jW2h/ From ccrobins at ktc.com Thu Aug 28 10:14:29 2008 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:14:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe In-Reply-To: <017001c9058c$93473ed0$5aeb9904@S0028025559> References: <017001c9058c$93473ed0$5aeb9904@S0028025559> Message-ID: <48B6CEE5.7090803@ktc.com> Hi Denise, Wish you'd post now and then. You were always interesting reading. CR Denise Thorpe wrote: > Hi Carl, > > I'm lurking on the digest these days. With all of the MG gurus on this > list, what tech question could only I answer? > > Denise Thorpe > xyzabcde at earthlink.net From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 28 10:26:46 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:26:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts In-Reply-To: <20080828113624.TL6O9.86087.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> Message-ID: The floats in the SUs -- are they original brass ones, or white plastic replacements? After I installed Grose-Jets, I found that the brass floats would vibrate at the engine's resonant frequency (around 62mph) and "dribble" the balls in the Grose-Jet like a basketball, causing the engine to sputter and surge. Switching to the plastic, non-adjustable floats fixed the problem. Switching back to regular needle valves would have worked, too, but the reason I switched in the first place was I was having chronic problems with debris. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/28/08 8:36 AM, Bernd at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote: > alright folks, my 71 "B" is acting up on me, within the last month there have > been three occasions where I'm driving along (say at about 60) suddenly I get > a whiff of gasoline odor, then the car's RPM drops and the car starts surging. > When I pull over to the side of the road the car idles at about 500 and tries > to die out, I've checked the dampers in the cabs, the weird thing is when I > press the dampers in the engines RPM speed up (should be revere se) I've > checked the floats, I have Grosse jets and they are free, I've change to my > good spare distributor on the side of the road, after doing all those things > the car starts to run fine again, then a few days or a week later it does it > again, I'm stumped, any help?. should I look toward the fuel pump? > Bernie > 71 MGB From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com Thu Aug 28 11:27:34 2008 From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:27:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Message-ID: <15142569.413621219944454580.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web14-z02> We have to think big. We function in a global economy. Money is insensitive to National boundries. Money moves all over the planet, wherever it is safe, stable and can grow. Mel 71BGT ---- Paul Hunt wrote: > Speak for yourself! I care very much that virtually none of our gas or > electricity supply, airports and goodness knows what else i.e. our basic > infrastructure are no longer British-owned. Not being able to do anything > about it is something else. > > As for not buying any MG made in China, probably the majority of the parts we > buy for our existing MGs are made there. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > We've long ago been forced to give up caring who owns our major companies > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Aug 28 13:35:16 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:35:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Phil Hill Message-ID: <18AE51BC-249A-4921-A77D-654B438EC3E7@gmail.com> Phil Hill died today. From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Aug 28 14:27:59 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 22:27:59 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three> <3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> Message-ID: Could not wait to throw another flame in: currently there's an MG ZT DIESEL stationwagon for sale - second hand nearby where I live. How would these USA guys like this? Cheers, Hans I'll stick to my 7 BGT and my VW Passat TDI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Root" To: "Paul Hunt" Cc: Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA >I thought it was a great idea. I'd love to have a TF. > > However, the original announcement was for the TF coupe not the > roadster. > > Was the coupe ever made and sold? Or was it always just a concept/pre- > production > car? > > I'm hoping that SAIC will find its way and get MG back in the US. > There has been near constant > teasing since about '94 when the RV8 came out, and they started > saying, "the next car" will come back. > > And the ZT and ZTT at MG2001 were just too cool. > > > On Aug 28, 2008, at 3:18 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > >> I agree it was never going to happen for a number of reasons, but >> what part of >> assembling 'British' roadsters in America from kits built in China >> *isn't* a >> good idea? >> >> PaulH. From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 28 14:48:50 2008 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:48:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three><3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> Message-ID: <44846BDD304B4765A81F11E2403D710B@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hans Duinhoven" To: "Paul Root" ; "Paul Hunt" Cc: Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 3:27 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Could not wait to throw another flame in: currently there's an MG ZT DIESEL stationwagon for sale - second hand nearby where I live. How would these USA guys like this? Cheers, Hans I'll stick to my 7 BGT and my VW Passat TDI =================================== Personally, I would love it. Seriously. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup, "Miss Pent", Ute "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Aug 28 14:51:29 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:51:29 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Message-ID: Actually, the VW TDI would make an excellent engine swap into an MGB, although I don't know of anyone that has assessed it for feasibility. It would sure blow any stock MG away and would return superior mileage to boot. We can't make fun of diesels any more - they aren't the old clattering, smoking versions we used to see in the old Mercedes! Bill In a message dated 8/28/2008 1:48:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: Could not wait to throw another flame in: currently there's an MG ZT DIESEL stationwagon for sale - second hand nearby where I live. How would these USA guys like this? Cheers, Hans I'll stick to my 7 BGT and my VW Passat TDI From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Aug 28 14:56:39 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:56:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080828165639.658AJ.89440.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> Hello: the floats are plastic, and the grose jet are brass, I just pulled them to make sure, I may go back to the needle instead of the grose jet and carry the grose jet as a spare, if I carry any more spares I have a junk yard in my trunk. B. 71 mgb ---- Max Heim wrote: > The floats in the SUs -- are they original brass ones, or white plastic > replacements? > > After I installed Grose-Jets, I found that the brass floats would vibrate at > the engine's resonant frequency (around 62mph) and "dribble" the balls in > the Grose-Jet like a basketball, causing the engine to sputter and surge. > Switching to the plastic, non-adjustable floats fixed the problem. > > Switching back to regular needle valves would have worked, too, but the > reason I switched in the first place was I was having chronic problems with > debris. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 8/28/08 8:36 AM, Bernd at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote: > > > alright folks, my 71 "B" is acting up on me, within the last month there have > > been three occasions where I'm driving along (say at about 60) suddenly I get > > a whiff of gasoline odor, then the car's RPM drops and the car starts surging. > > When I pull over to the side of the road the car idles at about 500 and tries > > to die out, I've checked the dampers in the cabs, the weird thing is when I > > press the dampers in the engines RPM speed up (should be revere se) I've > > checked the floats, I have Grosse jets and they are free, I've change to my > > good spare distributor on the side of the road, after doing all those things > > the car starts to run fine again, then a few days or a week later it does it > > again, I'm stumped, any help?. should I look toward the fuel pump? > > Bernie > > 71 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as 1971mgb at cox.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Aug 28 16:03:11 2008 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 00:03:11 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: Message-ID: Fully agree Bill, My VW Passat TDI carries the most tame version TDI - only 105 HP - almost the same power as the MGB. But wait - we went on vacation to Italy over the Alps - not through tunnels - passing the Brennerpass mountaintop, with 4 adults and the rest of the stationwagon loaded with luggage. This great pull is due to the enormous torque a diesel engine has. I never had to change gear from the 5th when climbing. I did had to change gear when going downwards. While passing these road, I overlapped 3 UK reg MGRV8's - a great view! Talking about the economy of this comfy car: During the 2,500 miles run in the holidays the car used an average 5.2 litres per 100 kilometres. Sorry guys, you have to xlate to metrics now. Back to the flat Holland roads and empty car fuel consumption is lowered to a stunning 4.9 litres/lkilometre avg. I did drive the 1st generation VW Golf (Rabbit for US people) diesel in 1978 with only 50 HP and a hell of a noise. After 50K miles the engine was suffering of high pressure in the crankcase, which was ventilated into the inlet manifold due to environmental reasons. Suddenly the pressure got so high, not only crankcase fumes were lead into the inlet manifold, but also engine oil. Now the engine got power, I never believed it ever would have. I got launched driving on the highway with my family in law included to a stunning 100 miles/h. Switching the engine off did not help, the engine oil just kept coming into the inlet manifold. The only thing I could do was kick the brake pedal with a heavy foot and pull the handbrake as well with the engine switched off. Shortly after this, the car stopped. Scary! You also should have seen the black smoke from the exhaust! This was in 1980 and I refused to drive this car anymore. Being a leasecar and almost at it's end of the leaseperiod, I got myself than a new 1980 VW Passat (dasher for USA guys) series 1.5 with the 1.5 litre 50 HP diesel engine. This car never failed in the 3 years time and was very nice to drive. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: WSpohn4 at aol.com To: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net ; h.duinhoven at planet.nl Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 10:51 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Actually, the VW TDI would make an excellent engine swap into an MGB, although I don't know of anyone that has assessed it for feasibility. It would sure blow any stock MG away and would return superior mileage to boot. We can't make fun of diesels any more - they aren't the old clattering, smoking versions we used to see in the old Mercedes! Bill In a message dated 8/28/2008 1:48:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: Could not wait to throw another flame in: currently there's an MG ZT DIESEL stationwagon for sale - second hand nearby where I live. How would these USA guys like this? Cheers, Hans I'll stick to my 7 BGT and my VW Passat TDI From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Aug 28 16:14:54 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:14:54 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Message-ID: Uh, some of us are already long metrified, Hans, we just don't talk metric because it confuses the Americans... And with 160 to 185 ft.lbs. of torque (I didn't think they'd be ready for Newton-metres) those engines out pull just about any MG. Too bad they make swaps so difficult - if the computer gets disconnected from the gauge package, it won't allow the engine to run. An antitheft thing, but one needs a do-around for doing swaps using that engine. Bill In a message dated 8/28/2008 3:03:31 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, h.duinhoven at planet.nl writes: I never had to change gear from the 5th when climbing. I did had to change gear when going downwards. While passing these road, I overlapped 3 UK reg MGRV8's - a great view! Talking about the economy of this comfy car: During the 2,500 miles run in the holidays the car used an average 5.2 litres per 100 kilometres. Sorry guys, you have to xlate to metrics now. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Aug 28 16:20:44 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:20:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Phil Hill Message-ID: <701467.9676.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Nice memoir by Denise McCluggage - http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080828/FREE/808289987/1024/rss01&rssfeed=rss01 Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Root To: MG List Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 3:35:16 PM Subject: [Mgs] Phil Hill Phil Hill died today. You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From lundgren at byu.net Thu Aug 28 16:46:16 2008 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:46:16 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48B72AB8.8020204@byu.net> WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > Uh, some of us are already long metrified, Hans, we just don't talk metric > because it confuses the Americans... > BLAH BLAH BLAH clicks BLAH BLAH meters BLAH BLAH :) I can use both except for speed on the road or an odometer. Those just feel better in mph. That and the Smith's ft#/sq" oil gauge symbol is cool looking. -- Andrew From xyzabcde at earthlink.net Thu Aug 28 18:15:36 2008 From: xyzabcde at earthlink.net (Denise Thorpe) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:15:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe References: <017001c9058c$93473ed0$5aeb9904@S0028025559> <48B6CEE5.7090803@ktc.com> Message-ID: <02bc01c9096c$5d897fe0$5aeb9904@S0028025559> Thanks for the kind words! I sold my adorable MG 1100's so I have a lot less MGness to talk about. I've still got the '67 B I've owned since '79 and the other '67 MGB restoration project that hasn't seen a wrench in years. My first B is slated for another restoration soon so maybe I'll have questions and pontifications then. I do have an MG-related story. Outside the door of the soul-killing ant farm where I work (for another month), there is a rusting circlip of the kind that holds an MGB brake cylinder onto the backing plate. Seeing an MG part in that place was like finding a flower growing through the melted concrete of a post-apocalyptic world. It did my heart good. Denise ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles & Peggy Robinson" To: "Denise Thorpe" Cc: Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:14 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe > Hi Denise, > > Wish you'd post now and then. You were always interesting reading. > > CR > > Denise Thorpe wrote: >> Hi Carl, >> >> I'm lurking on the digest these days. With all of the MG gurus on this >> list, what tech question could only I answer? >> >> Denise Thorpe >> xyzabcde at earthlink.net From leylandauto at yahoo.com Thu Aug 28 19:19:48 2008 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:19:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe In-Reply-To: <02bc01c9096c$5d897fe0$5aeb9904@S0028025559> Message-ID: <80251.45421.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> And who knew she is a Poet Too!! Time to start turning wrenches again so you can reclaim your soul. Carl --- On Thu, 8/28/08, Denise Thorpe wrote: From: Denise Thorpe Subject: Re: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe To: "Charles & Peggy Robinson" Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:15 PM Thanks for the kind words! I sold my adorable MG 1100's so I have a lot less MGness to talk about. I've still got the '67 B I've owned since '79 and the other '67 MGB restoration project that hasn't seen a wrench in years. My first B is slated for another restoration soon so maybe I'll have questions and pontifications then. I do have an MG-related story. Outside the door of the soul-killing ant farm where I work (for another month), there is a rusting circlip of the kind that holds an MGB brake cylinder onto the backing plate. Seeing an MG part in that place was like finding a flower growing through the melted concrete of a post-apocalyptic world. It did my heart good. Denise ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles & Peggy Robinson" To: "Denise Thorpe" Cc: Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:14 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Paging Denise Thorpe > Hi Denise, > > Wish you'd post now and then. You were always interesting reading. > > CR > > Denise Thorpe wrote: >> Hi Carl, >> >> I'm lurking on the digest these days. With all of the MG gurus on this >> list, what tech question could only I answer? >> >> Denise Thorpe >> xyzabcde at earthlink.net You are subscribed as leylandauto at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Aug 28 19:35:29 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:35:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: <44846BDD304B4765A81F11E2403D710B@Larry> References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three><3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com> <44846BDD304B4765A81F11E2403D710B@Larry> Message-ID: I think it'd be great as well. The US doesn't have the diesel taste that Europe has. There's also some issues with the reformulation of diesel is kind of held up. On Aug 28, 2008, at 3:48 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Hans Duinhoven" > To: "Paul Root" ; "Paul Hunt" > > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 3:27 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA > > > Could not wait to throw another flame in: > currently there's an MG ZT DIESEL stationwagon for sale - second > hand nearby > where I live. > How would these USA guys like this? > > Cheers, > > Hans > > I'll stick to my 7 BGT > and my VW Passat TDI > > > =================================== > > Personally, I would love it. Seriously. > > > > Larry Daniels > > 79 MGB LE > 60 Bugeye > 67 Austin A60 Pickup, "Miss Pent", Ute > > "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it > doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it > shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 28 19:39:38 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:39:38 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Yeah, but diesel costs more than premium, so it wouldn't exactly be an economy measure... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/28/08 1:51 PM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > Actually, the VW TDI would make an excellent engine swap into an MGB, > although I don't know of anyone that has assessed it for feasibility. It > would sure > blow any stock MG away and would return superior mileage to boot. > > We can't make fun of diesels any more - they aren't the old clattering, > smoking versions we used to see in the old Mercedes! > > Bill > > > In a message dated 8/28/2008 1:48:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: > > Could not wait to throw another flame in: > currently there's an MG ZT DIESEL stationwagon for sale - second hand nearby > where I live. > How would these USA guys like this? > > Cheers, > > Hans > > I'll stick to my 7 BGT > and my VW Passat TDI From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Aug 28 20:17:49 2008 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 22:17:49 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Message-ID: Ah but it is. I was getting 1000 km. out of a tank of diesel when I was in France. The economy more than makes up for any price differential. Bill In a message dated 28/08/2008 7:02:31 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: Yeah, but diesel costs more than premium, so it wouldn't exactly be an economy measure... From MGMagnette at aol.com Thu Aug 28 22:27:54 2008 From: MGMagnette at aol.com (MGMagnette at aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 00:27:54 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MG on Playboy Cover Message-ID: _http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/_ (http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/) Ok, its 1957 but ... still. -John **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From dwoerpel at wi.net Fri Aug 29 00:01:39 2008 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 01:01:39 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Phil Hill In-Reply-To: <8EFE72BCDD244D95BA5BC7CB7F6A9D99@Larry> References: <8EFE72BCDD244D95BA5BC7CB7F6A9D99@Larry> Message-ID: <48B790C3.7020407@wi.net> Sigh, another HERO gone. Unlike many of today's drivers he was a gentleman and a class act. He walked into the paddock area at Road America, where my son was working on a Brabham I nodded and said hello and he winked at me in acknowledgment and went straight for Adam. He shook Adam's hand and they talked for about 5 minutes and he autographed a metal Ferrari shield Adam had just purchased. He told Adam what a responsibility the guys with the wrenches have. Today that shield is hanging in a place of honor. A couple of years later we ran into him at Indy for the USGP. We were walking one way and the Hills the other. As we past each other we nodded and Phil said, "You're the Brabham man!" Amazing. I told Adam today by phone and there was silence for a moment and then he summed up my feelings with one word, "Damn!" Yup, we lost a good one. Thanks Phil. I bet he's finally telling off Enzo for all those years he had to put up with the man's tirades. Anyone know if Paul Newman has improved? Dave 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 Burlington WI Larry Daniels wrote: > Phil Hill died this morning of respiratory problems and Parkinson's. He was > 81. > > http://tinyurl.com/6pd5tw From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 29 01:54:46 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:54:46 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <15142569.413621219944454580.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web14-z02> Message-ID: <007c01c909af$04e4f390$0200a8c0@Three> None of that makes the fact we have to get some of our gas from Russia, and it has to pass through Germany and France before it reaches us (until there is a shortage), any easier to bear. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- We have to think big. We function in a global economy. Money is insensitive to National boundries. Money moves all over the planet, wherever it is safe, stable and can grow. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 29 01:52:47 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:52:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB driving me nuts References: <20080828.115020.1340.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <007b01c909af$04c5f9e0$0200a8c0@Three> Firstly if the vent line is plugged you *won't* get fuel from the tank going into the canister, because the vent line *is* blocked, although it will cause fuel starvation. And unless you remove the fuel filler cap you won't be able to blow through the vent line anyway. The easiest test for a blocked vent line is to remove the fuel filler cap when it starts acting-up. If you get a whoosh of air it *is* blocked, and you should be able to start the engine and drive off normally immediately. But a blocked line wouldn't allow you to drive off normally *until* you had removed the filler cap, or left it for some time, and it would cause the same thing to happen every few miles, not once every few days or weeks. Even a vent line that was intermittently blocked is unlikely to act like this. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- One thing to check is that the vent line from the adsorbtion cannister to fuel tank is venting. If plugged, you can experience both lack of fuel and fuel being pushed into the adsorbtion cannister. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 29 02:18:22 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:18:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <016601c908e8$961e8ff0$0200a8c0@Three><3D689D6E-F877-452B-B8E3-A37D64171C19@gmail.com><44846BDD304B4765A81F11E2403D710B@Larry> Message-ID: <00e001c909b3$38a0ad60$0200a8c0@Three> You *drink* it? ----- Original Message ----- The US doesn't have the diesel taste that Europe has. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 29 02:13:35 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:13:35 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: Message-ID: <00de01c909b3$3856d320$0200a8c0@Three> Any modern petrol engine would do the same if not better, and be cheaper to fuel into the bargain, in the UK at least. With droves of people having changed over to Diesel for its economy they are now screaming at the extra tax they are having to pay per gallon. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Actually, the VW TDI would make an excellent engine swap into an MGB, although I don't know of anyone that has assessed it for feasibility. It would sure blow any stock MG away and would return superior mileage to boot. From wsthompson at thicko.com Fri Aug 29 05:04:23 2008 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:04:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Phil Hill In-Reply-To: <48B790C3.7020407@wi.net> References: <8EFE72BCDD244D95BA5BC7CB7F6A9D99@Larry> <48B790C3.7020407@wi.net> Message-ID: <002801c909c7$070e2840$152a78c0$@com> My wife, the Striking Viking was reading Burt Levy's series of 50's racing books, starting with "The Last Open Road". Burt weaves fictional characters with some of racing's true heroes through road racing's early history. A few years ago, we were walking the paddock at Road America, and over in the vendor section, Phil was signing books or posters. I said to her, "there's Phil Hill. I've met him a few times over the years." She turns to me and says, "He's real? I thought he was just another character in the book???". We've had a good laugh over that every time his name has come up. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Woerpel Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 1:02 AM To: MGs Cc: Spridgets List; bugeye at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Mgs] Phil Hill Sigh, another HERO gone. Unlike many of today's drivers he was a gentleman and a class act. He walked into the paddock area at Road America, where my son was working on a Brabham I nodded and said hello and he winked at me in acknowledgment and went straight for Adam. He shook Adam's hand and they talked for about 5 minutes and he autographed a metal Ferrari shield Adam had just purchased. He told Adam what a responsibility the guys with the wrenches have. Today that shield is hanging in a place of honor. A couple of years later we ran into him at Indy for the USGP. We were walking one way and the Hills the other. As we past each other we nodded and Phil said, "You're the Brabham man!" Amazing. I told Adam today by phone and there was silence for a moment and then he summed up my feelings with one word, "Damn!" Yup, we lost a good one. Thanks Phil. I bet he's finally telling off Enzo for all those years he had to put up with the man's tirades. Anyone know if Paul Newman has improved? Dave 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 Burlington WI From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 06:52:46 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 05:52:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Message-ID: <574254.51583.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Quite a bit more, too..... I filled my Audi with premium Wednesday for $3.65, and diesel was $4.17, if I recall..... Regular was $3.39. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Max Heim To: MG List Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 9:39:38 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Yeah, but diesel costs more than premium, so it wouldn't exactly be an economy measure... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/28/08 1:51 PM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > Actually, the VW TDI would make an excellent engine swap into an MGB, > although I don't know of anyone that has assessed it for feasibility. It > would sure > blow any stock MG away and would return superior mileage to boot. > > We can't make fun of diesels any more - they aren't the old clattering, > smoking versions we used to see in the old Mercedes! > > Bill > > > In a message dated 8/28/2008 1:48:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes: > > Could not wait to throw another flame in: > currently there's an MG ZT DIESEL stationwagon for sale - second hand nearby > where I live. > How would these USA guys like this? > > Cheers, > > Hans > > I'll stick to my 7 BGT > and my VW Passat TDI You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 07:58:09 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:58:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Back to Earth.... Message-ID: <869205.2544.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Paul, good thoughts on the grounding. I think that is my next step. I replaced the cracked positive battery clamp, and had the battery charged and tested. It tested fine. So, I reinstalled it and tried cranking it. The engine spun normally the first time I tried it, but didn't fire. When I tried again, I got the 'clicking' sound, and subsequent efforts had the same result. In addition, the fuel pump seems to be making a 'humming' sound, versus the normal intermittent clicking. It was working normally previously, and the fuel filter is full of gas. I am going to hook the car back up to my van this week-end, just for sh*ts and giggles. I am wondering if it could be the ground strap on the transmission's rear mount (crossmember). It seems to be that I had some difficulty with that one, remembering how it went (didn't have a good picture). What other grounds are there that could be causing this issue? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Hunt To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:11:36 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Back to Earth.... Sounds like a bad connection in the cranking circuit i.e. battery to body or solenoid, and body to engine. The fan belt and alternator are irrelevant when cranking as the alternator only starts to charge when the engine is running and has been revved over 900 or so rpm. A tendency to stall when the brakes are applied usually means there is a defect *inside* the brake booster resulting in a vacuum leak when the brakes are applied. If the leak were anywhere in the plumbing between manifold and booster it would be affecting the running of the engine all the time. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Well, didn't meet my goal of driving the car around the block today. . __,_._,___ You are subscribed as d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From barrie at look.ca Fri Aug 29 08:07:19 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 10:07:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] shortened water pump In-Reply-To: <003901c909da$fbd831a0$020fa8c0@RONWS> References: <002e01c9091f$8507b200$020fa8c0@RONWS> <003901c909da$fbd831a0$020fa8c0@RONWS> Message-ID: Ron, I am really surprise at the fuss the pulley has caused and so I called the shop who did the work. Naturally after 6-7 years they had no clear recollection. The chap said he felt sure it was an SD1 or Buick crank pulley he used - no special work. I suppose I could get under the car and see what is what but at this time it is having new springs fitted (front sagged to 12", rear to 13" and I was scraping the bottom). I also have some trouble with the traction bars as the new Moss springs are fatter than currently installed and it is missing bolts to floor. At 09:27 AM 8/29/2008, you wrote: >ON reading the list I see a person has asked a good question. The >pulley definetly looks like it will be in a different plane now. >I saw the article in the V8 magizine and it has the pulley closer to >the engine. ?? >----- Original Message ----- >From: Barrie Robinson >To: Ron Shellenberger >Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 4:27 PM >Subject: Re: shortened water pump > >Ron, > > >Your name is on the list!! > > >At 11:05 AM 8/28/2008, you wrote: >>I have a Buick engine waiting on a body and a Rover SD1 that I want >>to restore. Will I ever get to them, who knows. If you will take a >>maybe to figure cost , count me in for 2. Depending on cost I may >>still get them even though the projects are a ways off. >>Ron Shellenberger > >Regards >Barrie > >Barrie Robinson >(705) 721-9060 >http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm >http://www.britcot.com Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 08:18:00 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 07:18:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG on Playboy Cover In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <268152.26395.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Thu, 8/28/08, MGMagnette at aol.com wrote: > _http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/_ > (http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/) You'll have to remove the underscores or parentheses to get the link to work: http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 29 09:02:05 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 16:02:05 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Back to Earth.... References: <869205.2544.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <014901c909e9$c7368a00$0200a8c0@Three> The engine/transmission ground strap will affect cranking, but nothing else. Problems with the battery ground strap, battery link cable (twin 6v batteries), and the main cable to the solenoid can cause solenoid chatter and also flickering ignition warning light or other lights as it does so. Problems in the solenoid contacts or motor brushes/comm can affect cranking but shouldn't cause solenoid chattering. However one of the know failure modes of a V8 starter, because of its proximity to one of the exhaust downpipes, is solenoid chattering when the solenoid winding itself starts to fail from heat. This is much less likely with a 4-cylinder. Bad connections in the starter relay or solenoid circuits can also cause the relay or solenoid to 'drop out' with the normal voltage reduction that occurs when cranking. Fuel pump humming *could* be due to low voltage, i.e. a bad connection at the battery or solenoid, but some versions of the SU pump were prone to 'buzzing' in any event and were subsequently modified, so that could be nothing to do with the cranking problem. The best thing is to connect a voltmeter between the brown at the fusebox and a good ground on the body, and monitor the voltage during cranking. With a good battery and connections it shouldn't go below about 10v. However if the solenoid starts chattering when you are doing this then an analogue meter will only show the average voltage between the starter powered and not powered, which isn't much use! A digital meter may not 'settle'. So an alternative is to get under the car and bridge the battery cable and the solenoid operate terminal. If that causes the same problem there is either bad connections or a bad solenoid. If it doesn't, then bridge the brown and white/brown at the starter relay. If that's OK then bridge the white/red and brown at the starter relay. And so on back through the ignition switch until you find somewhere that causes the chattering. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... What other grounds are there that could be causing this issue? . __,_._,___ From guinness at stclegal.com Fri Aug 29 09:52:30 2008 From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 10:52:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG Siting (But not so risque) Message-ID: <48B81B3E.8070305@stclegal.com> While wandering the aisles of Sam's Club, I spied a very nice artist rendering of a red, right hand drive, MGA on the box of a Sceptre 24"LCD computer screen. No Playboy Bunnies though. -- Robert Guinness From lundgren at byu.net Fri Aug 29 09:56:41 2008 From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:56:41 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG Siting (But not so risque) In-Reply-To: <48B81B3E.8070305@stclegal.com> References: <48B81B3E.8070305@stclegal.com> Message-ID: <48B81C39.3040601@byu.net> I have one of those in my office. Not a bad monitor either! Robert J. Guinness wrote: > While wandering the aisles of Sam's Club, I spied a very nice artist > rendering of a red, right hand drive, MGA on the box of a Sceptre 24"LCD > computer screen. No Playboy Bunnies though. From muses at cableone.net Fri Aug 29 14:05:57 2008 From: muses at cableone.net (Todd Mullins) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 15:05:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Back to Earth... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This is exactly why a big fat auxiliary ground cable from the battery straight to the engine is a Really Good Idea... -todd muses at cableone.net '74 MGB Tourer back from the body shop On Aug 29, 2008, at 8:57 AM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: Dan DiBiase > > I replaced the cracked positive battery clamp, and had the battery > charged and tested. It tested fine. So, I reinstalled it and > tried cranking it. The engine spun normally the first time I tried > it, but didn't fire. When I tried again, I got the 'clicking' sound, > and subsequent efforts had the same result. In addition, the fuel > pump seems to be making a 'humming' sound, versus the > normal intermittent clicking. It was working normally previously, > and the fuel filter is full of gas. I am going to hook the car > back up to my van this week-end, just for sh*ts and giggles. > > I am wondering if it could be the ground strap on the transmission's > rear mount (crossmember). It seems to be that I had some > difficulty with that one, remembering how it went (didn't have a > good picture). What other grounds are there that could be > causing this issue? From rolindsay at yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 15:56:40 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 14:56:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Back to Earth... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <331127.49591.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Todd Mullins wrote: > This is exactly why a big fat auxiliary ground cable > from the battery straight to the engine is a Really > Good Idea... > > -todd Todd writes gospel. In fact, I run a ground cable from the battery to a bolt at the starter mount then on to a firm chassis connection. Doing so guarantees a high-current connection to the engine/starter and a good connection on to the chassis without depending upon current through the block, through the ground strap at the motor mount and into the frame there. That being said, I still keep the factory ground strap in place. regards, rick From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 17:38:52 2008 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 16:38:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: <574254.51583.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <186038.82696.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Fri, 8/29/08, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Quite a bit more, too..... I filled my Audi with premium > Wednesday for $3.65, and diesel was $4.17, if I recall..... > Regular was $3.39. $3.39?!? Holy cats! And I was dancing a jig this week because I found regular for $3.84! (Tacoma area.) From 1971mgb at cox.net Fri Aug 29 18:36:56 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 20:36:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] HS-4 carbs Message-ID: <20080829203656.PRFM3.99477.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> On the HS-4 carbs is there a gasket that goes on top of the Needle and Seat?, on top of the threaded part of the Seat, it's located in the fload bowl. Moss does not show one, on part number 373-626, item 33. I've heard that unless there is a gasket in that location, gasoline can seep through. Confused as usual. 71 MGB From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 29 18:50:05 2008 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 17:50:05 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] HS-4 carbs In-Reply-To: <20080829203656.PRFM3.99477.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> Message-ID: If by a gasket you mean a tiny fiber washer, yes. Although if you have the non-adjustable replacement plastic floats, you might have to eliminate the washer, or stack up two of them, to achieve the correct float height. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/29/08 5:36 PM, Bernd at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote: > On the HS-4 carbs is there a gasket that goes on top of the Needle and Seat?, > on top of the threaded part of the Seat, it's located in the fload bowl. Moss > does not show one, on part number 373-626, item 33. I've heard that unless > there is a gasket in that location, gasoline can seep through. Confused as > usual. > 71 MGB From 1971mgb at cox.net Fri Aug 29 19:39:50 2008 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (Bernd) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 21:39:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] HS-4 carbs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080829213950.Y2DQK.99854.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> I do mean the tiny fiber washer you mention, any idea where to get them, ?, a friend mentioned that we could make them. I do have the plastic floats. ---- Max Heim wrote: > If by a gasket you mean a tiny fiber washer, yes. Although if you have the > non-adjustable replacement plastic floats, you might have to eliminate the > washer, or stack up two of them, to achieve the correct float height. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 8/29/08 5:36 PM, Bernd at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote: > > > On the HS-4 carbs is there a gasket that goes on top of the Needle and Seat?, > > on top of the threaded part of the Seat, it's located in the fload bowl. Moss > > does not show one, on part number 373-626, item 33. I've heard that unless > > there is a gasket in that location, gasoline can seep through. Confused as > > usual. > > 71 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as 1971mgb at cox.net > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From mjanacek at snet.net Fri Aug 29 23:55:14 2008 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 01:55:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] HS-4 carbs In-Reply-To: <20080829213950.Y2DQK.99854.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> References: <20080829213950.Y2DQK.99854.imail@eastrmwml24.mgt.cox.net> Message-ID: <48B8E0C2.1030806@snet.net> Try a hobby shop that sells radio controlled models, either local or online. They should have all kinds of washers, both fiber and metal in different sizes. Mike '79B Bernd wrote: > I do mean the tiny fiber washer you mention, any idea where to get them, ?, a friend mentioned that we could make them. I do have the plastic floats. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 30 04:34:54 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 11:34:54 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Back to Earth... References: Message-ID: <00a801c90a8e$5c6d23a0$0200a8c0@Three> Might save a couple of connections, and it might be copper, but all that body shell drops less voltage. And you still need at least one connection between battery or engine and body for everything else. If the factory connections are done right they are fine. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- This is exactly why a big fat auxiliary ground cable from the battery straight to the engine is a Really Good Idea... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 30 04:43:59 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 11:43:59 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <186038.82696.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00aa01c90a8e$5cbe29d0$0200a8c0@Three> Difference in the UK is around 11 pence - per litre. That's not much short of a dollar a gallon. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Quite a bit more, too..... I filled my Audi with premium > Wednesday for $3.65, and diesel was $4.17, if I recall..... > Regular was $3.39. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Aug 30 07:24:51 2008 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 06:24:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Message-ID: <599592.38582.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ----- Original Message ---- From: David Breneman To: MG List Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 7:38:52 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA --- On Fri, 8/29/08, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Quite a bit more, too..... I filled my Audi with premium > Wednesday for $3.65, and diesel was $4.17, if I recall..... > Regular was $3.39. $3.39?!? Holy cats! And I was dancing a jig this week because I found regular for $3.84! (Tacoma area.) _______________________________________________ Yeah, that's a bennie of living in the Garden State for sure. i think we are second-cheapest in the US, and we don't have to pump it ourselves..... VERY nice on a cold winter day! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From pchast at francomm.com Sat Aug 30 07:32:24 2008 From: pchast at francomm.com (Peter Chast) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 09:32:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA In-Reply-To: <599592.38582.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <599592.38582.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: $3.74 regular Hudson, NY Pete On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 09:24:51 -0400, Dan DiBiase wrote: > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: David Breneman > To: MG List > Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 7:38:52 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA > > --- On Fri, 8/29/08, Dan DiBiase wrote: > >> Quite a bit more, too..... I filled my Audi with premium >> Wednesday for $3.65, and diesel was $4.17, if I recall..... >> Regular was $3.39. > > $3.39?!? Holy cats! And I was dancing a jig this week because > I found regular for $3.84! (Tacoma area.) > _______________________________________________ > > Yeah, that's a bennie of living in the Garden State for sure. i think we > are second-cheapest in the US, and > we don't have to pump it ourselves..... VERY nice on a cold winter day! > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > '76 MGB Tourer > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > NAMGBR #5-2328 > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ > http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ > http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ > http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as pchast at francomm.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Aug 30 08:09:04 2008 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:09:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back working... Message-ID: <239867.8607.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Gang, Spent a little quality time with the MGB project yesterday. Got the new tail lights installed after doing a nice paint touch-up. Started installing the reversing lights but discovered a damaged lamp. Will replace them both. Today, in addition to finishing the reversing lights, I hope to reinstall the brake light switch and get that circuit working again. Doing so will bring the car into spec for Texas safety inspection. (Don't have to do emissions testing on old cars here.) regards, rick From jello at cableone.net Sat Aug 30 09:20:48 2008 From: jello at cableone.net (Phil Bates) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 09:20:48 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA - now gas price In-Reply-To: References: <599592.38582.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48B96550.9090507@cableone.net> $3.87 in Idaho Falls, ID - and that was the best we could do (i.e. most places are more). If you want to get a view of gas prices in the US and Canada, go to www.gasbuddy.com and look at the "gas temperature map." Hold on to you seats, Tropical Storm Gustav is headed for Louisiana, and all the oil companies are shutting things down - short supply, higher prices. Phil Bates '58 MGA '67 MGB misc other Peter Chast wrote: > $3.74 regular Hudson, NY > > Pete > > On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 09:24:51 -0400, Dan DiBiase > wrote: > > >> ----- Original Message ---- >> From: David Breneman >> To: MG List >> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 7:38:52 PM >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA >> >> --- On Fri, 8/29/08, Dan DiBiase wrote: >> >> >>> Quite a bit more, too..... I filled my Audi with premium >>> Wednesday for $3.65, and diesel was $4.17, if I recall..... >>> Regular was $3.39. >>> >> $3.39?!? Holy cats! And I was dancing a jig this week because >> I found regular for $3.84! (Tacoma area.) >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Yeah, that's a bennie of living in the Garden State for sure. i think we >> are second-cheapest in the US, and >> we don't have to pump it ourselves..... VERY nice on a cold winter day! >> >> Dan D >> Central NJ USA >> '76 MGB Tourer >> '65 MGB Tourer (Project) >> NAMGBR #5-2328 From ddarby at centurytel.net Sat Aug 30 09:50:44 2008 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 10:50:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA - now gas price References: <599592.38582.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <48B96550.9090507@cableone.net> Message-ID: <887DEBCA57624333AB0E145EFDD44B78@toshibauser> US$3.27 in Ozark, Missouri David From glenfel at sympatico.ca Sat Aug 30 09:53:12 2008 From: glenfel at sympatico.ca (Glenfel) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 11:53:12 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA References: <186038.82696.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <00aa01c90a8e$5cbe29d0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: The difference in Canada is this; With some variations, regular gas is around $1.39 per litre. Multiply that out at 3.78 litres per U.S. Gallon and that makes $5.25 per US gallon . With currency conversion about at 1 to 1, vacations southward are more likely than the other way around! Glen Eldridge Pointe-Claire Quibec 52 TD/64 Midget Mk.1 (formerly) -------Original Message------- From: Paul Hunt Date: 08/30/08 06:52:43 To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG TF is USA Difference in the UK is around 11 pence - per litre. That's not much short of a dollar a gallon. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Quite a bit more, too..... I filled my Audi with premium > Wednesday for $3.65, and diesel was $4.17, if I recall..... > Regular was $3.39. You are subscribed as glenfel at sympatico.ca Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of faint_grain.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of imstp_pets_cat_side_en_250808.gif] From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Sat Aug 30 12:49:40 2008 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (W. David Houser) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 14:49:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Flickering MGB lights Message-ID: Listers, Got in from an evening club meet and noticed on the way home all my lights, interior and headlights, started to flicker. Since this was the first time in a long time I've had the car out at night, I wouldn't have been aware of the problem. A ground getting loose somewhere? This is my 67 BGT that I have an alternator running things as I have halogens, A/C and FM tuner with CD player in trunk and wanted plenty of juice. Alternator 2 years old. Any suggestions? Cheers, Dave Houser From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Sat Aug 30 13:02:14 2008 From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 15:02:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Flickering MGB lights In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Dave, Checking the grounds is the place to start. Check that the fuse panel is clean of oil, dirt and corrosion; I recall reports of gremlins there. The later B headlight switch can be troublesome when halogens are fitted; too much current through the circuit causes the switch to fail. Don't know if this applies to a 67. Many like to add relays to the low beam and high beam circuits to improve light output and switch life. Good luck Eric in Florida 74 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of W. David Houser Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:50 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] Flickering MGB lights Listers, Got in from an evening club meet and noticed on the way home all my lights, interior and headlights, started to flicker. Since this was the first time in a long time I've had the car out at night, I wouldn't have been aware of the problem. A ground getting loose somewhere? This is my 67 BGT that I have an alternator running things as I have halogens, A/C and FM tuner with CD player in trunk and wanted plenty of juice. Alternator 2 years old. Any suggestions? Cheers, Dave Houser You are subscribed as ericemarkley at bellsouth.net Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.13/1642 - Release Date: 8/29/2008 6:12 PM From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Aug 30 13:29:23 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 14:29:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Flickering MGB lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080830193809.59904187656@autox.team.net> At 02:49 PM 8/30/2008 -0400, W. David Houser wrote: >.... noticed on the way home all my lights, interior and headlights, >started to flicker. Look for a loose connection on the common power wire, quite likely the power input to the headlight switch. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From thgun at comporium.net Sat Aug 30 19:54:08 2008 From: thgun at comporium.net (Tom Gunderson) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 18:54:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Schotchbright pads Message-ID: <491AFFD656CC494D852B3AC0542937D5@TOMPC> I read that I can clean piston heads with these pads. Has anyone used them? Does anyone know the one to use? Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA 1500 rst From barneymg at mgaguru.com Sat Aug 30 19:06:11 2008 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 20:06:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Schotchbright pads In-Reply-To: <491AFFD656CC494D852B3AC0542937D5@TOMPC> References: <491AFFD656CC494D852B3AC0542937D5@TOMPC> Message-ID: <20080831011429.03AE5187648@autox.team.net> At 06:54 PM 8/30/2008 -0700, Tom Gunderson wrote: >I read that I can clean piston heads with these pads. Has anyone used them? >Does anyone know the one to use? >.... http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts111.htm From shaws at mlcltd.com Sat Aug 30 22:39:57 2008 From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 23:39:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MG TF is USA - now gas price In-Reply-To: <887DEBCA57624333AB0E145EFDD44B78@toshibauser> References: <599592.38582.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <48B96550.9090507@cableone.net> <887DEBCA57624333AB0E145EFDD44B78@toshibauser> Message-ID: <390465ED-6964-408D-ADFD-CA0B1BD5E911@mlcltd.com> About 3.69 for regular in Lincoln, Ne Bob Shaw shaws at mlcltd.com My MGA is not leaking, It is merely marking its territory On Aug 30, 2008, at 10:50 AM, David F. Darby wrote: > US$3.27 in Ozark, Missouri > > David > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as shaws at mlcltd.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com Sun Aug 31 08:44:31 2008 From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 10:44:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Removing Front Subframe - '67GT Message-ID: <76664a460808310744o1bf8f661l74fcb61c6f224379@mail.gmail.com> I've got a 67 GT that I'm trying to remove the front subframe on. I've removed all? 4 nuts and two of the bolts have fallen into the subframe as expected. The other two are being very stubborn. What's a good way to pry this thing free from the chassis? - Steve From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com Sun Aug 31 08:44:58 2008 From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 10:44:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Wire to Bolt-on Conversion Message-ID: <76664a460808310744sd10fd5du98185c6d2c805028@mail.gmail.com> Does anybody know where a write-up is on converting a wire wheel car to a bolt on car? - Steve From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 31 09:12:08 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:12:08 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Flickering MGB lights References: Message-ID: <010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three> It is unlikely to be a ground as the headlights, rear lights, instrument lights and interior light all ground in different places. It's either an intermittent short dragging the voltage down in which case just hope and pray it doesn't become a full-time short, especially when parked) or an intermittent open-circuit. As you say both head and interior lights are affected that implies it is the main feed to both, but that would also affect the engine and tach. If both *are* affected, then it could just be intermittent output from your alternator, making then flicker between 14.5v from the alternator and 12v from the battery, rather than them flicking completely off. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Got in from an evening club meet and noticed on the way home all my lights, interior and headlights, started to flicker. From eric at erickson.on.net Sun Aug 31 09:30:04 2008 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 01:00:04 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Ooops again In-Reply-To: <010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three> References: <010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <829840E3-0BF7-4FC1-A39C-FF2B36EA2FD1@erickson.on.net> Here you go, guys. Some more chuckles at my expense. No damage - just exploring the limits of my braking. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBIePst4upk Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 31 09:32:56 2008 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:32:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Wire to Bolt-on Conversion References: <76664a460808310744sd10fd5du98185c6d2c805028@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <015101c90b7f$bb9a1800$0200a8c0@Three> Banjo or Salisbury/tube? For the latter it is simply a matter of swapping the hubs. That *will* put the rear wheels further into the arches, but unless you are using wide wheels and tyres you shouldn't get any rubbing. It may look a bit funny from the rear, just add spacers and longer studs. The rear hubs simply bolt on to the ends of the half-shafts. The front hubs hold the bearings, spacer, shims and oil seal, when getting hubs from elsewhere it is best to fit new bearings and oil seal, and you will then need to set the end-float, see http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_suspensionframe.htm and click on 'Front Bearing End Float' PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Does anybody know where a write-up is on converting a wire wheel car to a bolt on car? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Aug 31 17:23:23 2008 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 18:23:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Ooops again In-Reply-To: <829840E3-0BF7-4FC1-A39C-FF2B36EA2FD1@erickson.on.net> References: <010a01c90b7d$51855580$0200a8c0@Three> <829840E3-0BF7-4FC1-A39C-FF2B36EA2FD1@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: That's a pretty good one Eric! What happened? I watched twice, I'm seeing a right and suddenly the car goes left. Brake too late? On Aug 31, 2008, at 10:30 AM, Eric Erickson wrote: > Here you go, guys. > > Some more chuckles at my expense. > > No damage - just exploring the limits of my braking. > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBIePst4upk > > > Eric > '68 MGB MkII > Adelaide, South Australia > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > http://www.team.net/archive From batangelias at yahoo.com Sun Aug 31 19:33:08 2008 From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MG on Playboy Cover In-Reply-To: <268152.26395.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <352079.17329.qm@web34204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That looks like an MG TF, because they were the only ones with octagonal instruments. Martin '69 MGB Philippines --- On Fri, 8/29/08, David Breneman wrote: From: David Breneman Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG on Playboy Cover To: mgs at autox.team.net Date: Friday, August 29, 2008, 10:18 PM --- On Thu, 8/28/08, MGMagnette at aol.com wrote: > _http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/_ > (http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/) You'll have to remove the underscores or parentheses to get the link to work: http://www.playboy.com/magazine/cover-gallery/1957/04/ You are subscribed as batangelias at yahoo.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive