[Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors

Norm twobees at sprynet.com
Fri Sep 21 09:06:58 MDT 2007

Dear, 1971-red-mgb.

My 2-cents.

I switched from solid flat disk rotors to cross-drilled when I took my '66 B
racing.  I changed to slotted & cross-drilled next time I needed rotors.  At
the price, why not?

In 6 years of racing, I never had a problem with them as described.  However
- those problems ARE something to consider.  Good quality and careful
preparation by camphering (sp?) the edges of the holes will help.

I will say that I can't ever remember any competitor out-braking me in my
MGB.  I used Kevlar pads on the track & semi-metallics on the street.

I also cut a slot in the street pads for water dissipation.  That was done
with a cross-cut hand saw about half-way through the brake material of the
pad.  There are some pads made this way.  If you do it yourself, wear a
respirator.  Don't know what kind of stuff is in those pads.

I found that the combination of slotted pads & slotted disks helped in the
rain.  I used my B both on the road & on the track.  Often drove in the rain
on local streets & highways.  Never had the "opportunity" to drive in rain
on the track.

Bottom line - if you need to replace the disks & you want better braking,
and you aren't buying junk, or putting them through extreme hot - cool
cycles, spend the few extra $$ to get them.  On the basis of value for $$,
it is probably a relative gain.  Just be aware that you can not get a shop
to turn your rotors on their machines if you want to re-surface them.  The
holes can destroy the bits that cut the disk back.

Norm Sippel
no more disk brake LBCs, all drums now.

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