From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Sep 1 07:15:31 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 14:15:31 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Turn Indicator no worky References: <00e301c7eb1e$f43a0da0$0200a8c0@Three> <740643ECEB284CEFBEF40B12A59504A0@JimPC> <005d01c7eba6$98054850$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <00e301c7ec9a$5e773d60$0200a8c0@Three> If you are keeping the 70 column you need the 70 switch, and if you have the 70 harness this will be a direct plug-in. You will have to go by the chassis number as the switchgear changed in 1970 for the 71 model year. If you are changing the harness then depending on which one you fit will determine how much jiggery-pokery you will have to perform at the interconnections. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... So looks like I need an 141-810 part instead of the 141-850 I bought. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 1 09:35:45 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 10:35:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radio Repair References: <46D71533.8040903@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000601c7ecad$c4530160$8215a8c0@Garage.local> i had saved the hemmings sports and exotic car from may of this year because it listed three places that do this type of work. i am merely providing these as a service with no financial interest, no recommendations, warranty, or even guarantee that i spell it right. strictly fyi. not sure why they chose 2 in europe . . . they also say the "services" section of www.hemmings.com lists 45 radio restoration, repair, and conversion specialists! car radio repair and restoration service adrian james 10 westview paulton, bristol bs39 7xj england +44 1761 413933 www.radios.freeserve.co.uk classic at radios.freeserve.co.uk antique automobile radio, inc 700 tampa road palm harbor, florida 34683 www.antiqueautomobileradio.com radiomuseum ernst erb stiftung radiomuseum luzern seeburgstrasse 18 CH-6006 Luzern, Switerland +41 41 377 25 67 www.radiomuseum.org From sammler at bellsouth.net Sat Sep 1 12:33:22 2007 From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler") Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2007 14:33:22 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links In-Reply-To: <004001c7ebf5$2d3b14b0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> References: <004001c7ebf5$2d3b14b0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: <46D9B072.40703@bellsouth.net> Subaru 360 - possibly as old as the late 1960s - I don't know how long they were produced. From twobees at sprynet.com Sat Sep 1 17:10:06 2007 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 19:10:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation Message-ID: <000001c7eced$3ed047b0$0f4d1645@normoffice> I don't know if anyone has need for these instructions or not. But, in cleaning out some stuff in my garage, I found 10 pages of detailed instructions from Vicy Brit on interior installation. It covers everything from carpet to side panels & seats. Does anyone know if this brochure is still available? Norm No longer with an MGB From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Sep 1 17:52:25 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 16:52:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Rechroming bumpers Message-ID: <622103.98812.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Friends, I'm looking for advice. My front bumper is bent and I will replace it with new. That solution just takes cash and a Moss catalog. The real problem is the split rear bumpers. They are not avilable new, that I can find, and replacing them is not the ideal solution because my bumpers are unbent and not really rusty. What they need is rechroming. Please tell me who you have used or would use to rechrome bumpers. I have no problem shipping them to a shop outside of Houston. I'd just like to know that a Listmember has had good experience with a shop that I might use. Thanks in advance. rick '70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer From PRNDL at sonic.net Sat Sep 1 20:24:10 2007 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2007 19:24:10 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help In-Reply-To: <004001c7ebf5$2d3b14b0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: Abridged story with photo. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_360 -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From bobmgtd at insightbb.com Sat Sep 1 22:28:10 2007 From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 00:28:10 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP References: <46C67A29.4090105@wi.net> <002501c7e855$7902a870$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> <09f601c7e857$c7b40110$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <002d01c7ed19$ab5a0fc0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Works for me. Does anyone have a reason not to use STP in an MG? Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Daniels" To: "Bob Donahue" ; "MGs" ; "Spridgets" ; Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP again > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Donahue" > > This product sounds interesting. > > BTW, STP is supposed to have ZDDP in it. Does it have enough to make up > for > what the EPA is taking out? > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > ==================================== > > Bob, I don't have any ppm numbers for you, but this is what STP told me: > > > > I emailed STP from their website regarding the two oil additives and their > relative amount of ZDDP. Here is their response: > > > Dear Mr. Daniels, > > Thank you for contacting us about STP Oil Treatment. We always appreciate > hearing from our consumers. > > The STP 4 Cylinder Oil Treatment contains only slightly more than the STP > Oil Treatment. They both contain about 4 times the amount of ZDDP as what > motor oils once contained. The product was originally designed for flat > tappet cam motors. We have many classic car owners that use our product > for > this reason. > > Again, thank you for contacting us. > > > Sincerely, > > Patti Copper From mjanacek at snet.net Sun Sep 2 05:00:31 2007 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 07:00:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation References: <000001c7eced$3ed047b0$0f4d1645@normoffice> Message-ID: <002a01c7ed50$7b266970$1d44fc40@DESKTOP> Norm, I don't know if this brochure is still available but it might be worth scanning and placing on a public website such as Skyes MG Experience or even a personal one for readily availible reference. Mike '79B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norm" To: ; Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 7:10 PM Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation >I don't know if anyone has need for these instructions or not. But, in > cleaning out some stuff in my garage, I found 10 pages of detailed > instructions from Vicy Brit on interior installation. It covers > everything > from carpet to side panels & seats. > > Does anyone know if this brochure is still available? > > Norm > No longer with an MGB > _______________________________________________ From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Sep 2 08:31:28 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 07:31:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Rechroming bumpers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <399716.66532.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks to all for their recommendations. rick From palte at gmx.net Sun Sep 2 11:57:22 2007 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 19:57:22 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries In-Reply-To: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net> References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net> Message-ID: <20070902175721.86E547000086@mwinf6007.orange.nl> Well, it was me who started this thread in the first place. I was asked, why I did not convert to one 12V battery. First: I've owned the car for almost twenty tears now. Have replaced the same batteries therefore 4 or 5 times earlier. Of course, there was no reason to suspect that nowadays, availability would be an issue and it could thought to be meaningful to convert to one 12V battery. Second: I ordered my batteries at the same company where I have ordered most of my car parts over the last 35 years. I don't normally ask the price of what I want. Either you trust them or you dont. Basically I thought I had a ball park idea about the price. (I was wrong, I have to admit). Third: The general idea is that by doing all the work (except the mandatory annual safety inspection) on my cars myself, I save so much labour cost that the price of the parts is not of great importance. *** New problem: It seems that the 20W50-grade oil for our older cars is now more difficult to get at! Bert From rocknatural at gmail.com Sun Sep 2 12:40:21 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 13:40:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 20W50 oil In-Reply-To: <20070902175721.86E547000086@mwinf6007.orange.nl> References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net> <20070902175721.86E547000086@mwinf6007.orange.nl> Message-ID: <46DB0395.7060009@gmail.com> Bert Palte wrote: > *** New problem: It seems that the 20W50-grade oil for our older cars > is now more difficult to get at! Our local Reasor's Supermarket always has Castrol 20W50 on the shelf in the automotive department. O'Reilly's Auto parts stores in Tulsa always have Valvoline 20W50. These are my favorite motor oils. Many of the Reasor's stores are open 24-7. -The Roxter -- From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sun Sep 2 14:43:10 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 22:43:10 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] 20W50 oil References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net><20070902175721.86E547000086@mwinf6007.orange.nl> <46DB0395.7060009@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000d01c7eda1$dfcc8a70$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> As this supermarket is a bit far for Bert, I suggest Bert to see at local MG specialists. Anglo Parts at Veenendaal seems close to your place Bert. (I never go there - to far away for me). I always go to Octagon Spares - nowadays fused with First Floor Classics. They have Castrol 20 W 50 for sure. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "The Roxter" To: Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 8:40 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] 20W50 oil > Bert Palte wrote: >> *** New problem: It seems that the 20W50-grade oil for our older cars >> is now more difficult to get at! > Our local Reasor's Supermarket always has Castrol 20W50 on the shelf in > the automotive department. O'Reilly's Auto parts stores in Tulsa always > have Valvoline 20W50. These are my favorite motor oils. Many of the > Reasor's stores are open 24-7. > > -The Roxter > -- > _______________________________________________ > h.duinhoven at planet.nl > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 2-9-2007 > 16:32 From bwboss at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 2 15:10:55 2007 From: bwboss at sbcglobal.net (Brian Boss) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 14:10:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP Message-ID: <170415.49915.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> This isn't a reason not to use STP, per se, but I think GM's EOS is a better product for raising ZDDP levels. It was designed and marketed as a break in additive but a lot of car enthusiasts use it at every change in older, flat tappet motors. This is what I will be using when my stash of SL rated Valvoline is gone. Here is a good article on oils: http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html The author is primarily addressing Porsche motors but don't hold that against him ;) -------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 00:28:10 -0400 From: "Bob Donahue" Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP To: "mgs" Message-ID: <002d01c7ed19$ab5a0fc0$6600a8c0 at yourmb2swywknr> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Works for me. Does anyone have a reason not to use STP in an MG? Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Daniels" To: "Bob Donahue" ; "MGs" ; "Spridgets" ; Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP again > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Donahue" > > This product sounds interesting. > > BTW, STP is supposed to have ZDDP in it. Does it have enough to make up > for > what the EPA is taking out? > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > ==================================== > > Bob, I don't have any ppm numbers for you, but this is what STP told me: > > > > I emailed STP from their website regarding the two oil additives and their > relative amount of ZDDP. Here is their response: > > > Dear Mr. Daniels, > > Thank you for contacting us about STP Oil Treatment. We always appreciate > hearing from our consumers. > > The STP 4 Cylinder Oil Treatment contains only slightly more than the STP > Oil Treatment. They both contain about 4 times the amount of ZDDP as what > motor oils once contained. The product was originally designed for flat > tappet cam motors. We have many classic car owners that use our product > for > this reason. > > Again, thank you for contacting us. > > > Sincerely, > > Patti Copper From bobmgtd at insightbb.com Sun Sep 2 15:16:02 2007 From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 17:16:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? Message-ID: <001701c7eda6$77554720$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> The good original steering rack boots (263-385) are no longer available from Moss. The cheaper replacement boots (263-380) only last me about six months. Are good boots available any where? Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Sep 2 17:39:05 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 16:39:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP In-Reply-To: <170415.49915.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <403751.3092.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Brian wrote: --- Brian Boss wrote: > This isn't a reason not to use STP, per se, but I > think GM's EOS is a better product for raising ZDDP > levels... > Here is a good article on oils: > http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html ...and I add: Everyone and his brother has harsh opinions regarding oil additives. Here are mine: + No additive makes oil lubricate better - including the additives that make multi-viscosity oils! + Oil additives do nothing (good) for a healthy engine. + Oil additives don't fix engines but they CAN help a sick engine last a little longer. + I used "Restore" in a Mercedes 190 and it was like magic. That comment is made because the engine had two problems that the additive addressed. (1) It had something in it that caused the valve seals to swell reducing the amount of oil that would drain past them and burn in the engine. Because less oil was being burned, the plugs stayed cleaner (I was replacing them weekly!) and the apparent octane-reducing effect of the oil was minimized. And (2) In that same 190, the rings were worn. M-B bottom ends are incredibly strong (just like BMWs) but rings do wear. The makers of "Restore" claim that there are chemicals in the product that cling to the walls of the bores allowing worn rings to seal better. I don't know if this is true but my poor old worn M-B 190 went many more miles than it would have otherwise. + The additive is NOT a repair but rather a Band Aid for a sick engine. The car wasn't worth an engine rebuild but I wasn't going to drive it blowing blue smoke at every stoplight and at every start-up. Rick '70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 3 02:18:34 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:18:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 20W50 oil References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net><20070902175721.86E547000086@mwinf6007.orange.nl> <46DB0395.7060009@gmail.com> Message-ID: <007101c7ee03$e713de20$0200a8c0@Three> Castrol GTX 20W/50 hasn't been available in the UK for dozens of years. It became 15W/50 which was an improvement and fine by me. However a few years ago it changed to 15W/40 which is like water by comparison and had an impact on the hot idle oil pressure of the V8 which I didn't like. Whilst Castrol Classic is available in XL 20W/50 (it even comes in the original metal can and in gallons) it's pretty expensive. The other sources of 20W/50 tend to be 'no name' brands or aviation grade! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >> *** New problem: It seems that the 20W50-grade oil for our older cars >> is now more difficult to get at! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 3 02:24:47 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:24:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP References: <403751.3092.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007201c7ee03$e7483490$0200a8c0@Three> Amen to that. Many years ago in the UK the various Holts additives were advertised as doing just that - getting round a problem that would otherwise require an expensive replacement or repair, with varying degrees of success. It is subsequently that manufacturers have been trying to pass these things off as something magical for good engines. They are a catch-penny for the unwary, and can even be counter-productive. Take an oil additive that increases oil pressure - if the problem is worn bearings or oil pump, it can only increase oil pressure by reducing flow through the bearings, which is surely counterproductive, and nothing more than a false peace of mind for the driver. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > + Oil additives don't fix engines but they CAN help a > sick engine last a little longer. From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 3 06:22:49 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 07:22:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP References: <170415.49915.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000a01c7ee25$24dbbe50$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Boss" To: Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP This isn't a reason not to use STP, per se, but I think GM's EOS is a better product for raising ZDDP levels. It was designed and marketed as a break in additive but a lot of car enthusiasts use it at every change in older, flat tappet motors. ======================================= Brian, upon what facts are you saying that the GM additive is better than the STP additive. Is it just because of the way the GM product was marketed or are there some imperial facts that you don't mention that make it better than STP? I want to use the best product, but would prefer that the best product not be determined by the best marketing department. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From bobmgtd at insightbb.com Mon Sep 3 07:25:00 2007 From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:25:00 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? Message-ID: <001701c7ee2d$d47561b0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> The better original steering rack boots (263-385) are no longer available from Moss. I've had miserable experience with the cheaper (263-380). Are good boots available any where? My B is a daily driver. I find the rubber parts are the least reliable. (Why can't they make reproduction parts out of the same rubber material that OEMs use?) Looking back in my maintenance records: 263-385 last about 3 years. 263-380 last about 6 months. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 3 07:44:31 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 08:44:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP References: <170415.49915.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <000a01c7ee25$24dbbe50$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <001c01c7ee30$8eb388c0$6401a8c0@Larry> This isn't a reason not to use STP, per se, but I think GM's EOS is a better product for raising ZDDP levels. It was designed and marketed as a break in additive but a lot of car enthusiasts use it at every change in older, flat tappet motors. ======================================= Brian, upon what facts are you saying that the GM additive is better than the STP additive. Is it just because of the way the GM product was marketed or are there some imperial facts that you don't mention that make it better than STP? I want to use the best product, but would prefer that the best product not be determined by the best marketing department. Larry Daniels =================================== Ooops! Please excuse the wording and punctuation errors. That's what I get for even looking at a computer when I first wake up and before I've had my first cup of tea -- or three. Anyhow, I'm just looking for something positive to back up your choice of one over the other. LAD From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Sep 3 08:56:18 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:56:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? In-Reply-To: <001701c7ee2d$d47561b0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> References: <001701c7ee2d$d47561b0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: Ok, you made me go look. I got mine from Moss 5 years ago. They are still fine. Could it be something you are doing while installing? Or is the rack messed up? Maybe the ones made more recently are cheap/defective. On Sep 3, 2007, at 8:25 AM, Bob Donahue wrote: > The better original steering rack boots (263-385) are no longer > available from > Moss. I've had miserable experience with the cheaper (263-380). > Are good > boots available any where? > > My B is a daily driver. I find the rubber parts are the least > reliable. (Why > can't they make reproduction parts out of the same rubber material > that OEMs > use?) > > Looking back in my maintenance records: > > 263-385 last about 3 years. > > 263-380 last about 6 months. > > Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From barrie at look.ca Mon Sep 3 09:07:07 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 11:07:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Steering column clip Message-ID: I believe there is a clip thing that is fixed to the steering column in late model MGBs. This clicks the turn indicator over to the "off" position. Thus is required to get the self-cancellation action. Does anyone have one of these to spare/sell/loan? I have absolutely no idea what they look like !!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From bwboss at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 3 09:22:46 2007 From: bwboss at sbcglobal.net (Brian Boss) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 08:22:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP In-Reply-To: <001c01c7ee30$8eb388c0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <517146.18828.qm@web52511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> My thinking is that there is nothing wrong with any decent oil except the reduced zinc level. The EOS product has around 50% more zinc so you can use less of it to get to the desired level. Also, STP claims to modify viscosity. If I have the correct weight oil for my application and change it before it breaks down, why would I want to modify the viscosity with an additive. I have never had a high opinion of oil additives in general. If whatever is in them had all the magic properties the makers claim, why wouldn't the oil companies put it in the oil to start with? Remember that "Slick 50" teflon based crap? In the case of the zinc additive, however, it is not some "snake oil" with wild claims. The additive is just to get back to the formulation of oil you could buy last year. Also, I believe there are at least 2 formulations of the Valvoline VR1. If it is rated SAE SM, or has the dreaded "energy saver" logo, I wouldn't use it. Larry Daniels wrote: This isn't a reason not to use STP, per se, but I think GM's EOS is a better product for raising ZDDP levels. It was designed and marketed as a break in additive but a lot of car enthusiasts use it at every change in older, flat tappet motors. ======================================= Brian, upon what facts are you saying that the GM additive is better than the STP additive. Is it just because of the way the GM product was marketed or are there some imperial facts that you don't mention that make it better than STP? I want to use the best product, but would prefer that the best product not be determined by the best marketing department. Larry Daniels From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 3 09:47:52 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 10:47:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP References: <517146.18828.qm@web52511.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001501c7ee41$ca498810$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Boss To: Larry Daniels ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:22 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP My thinking is that there is nothing wrong with any decent oil except the reduced zinc level. The EOS product has around 50% more zinc so you can use less of it to get to the desired level. Also, STP claims to modify viscosity. If I have the correct weight oil for my application and change it before it breaks down, why would I want to modify the viscosity with an additive. I have never had a high opinion of oil additives in general. If whatever is in them had all the magic properties the makers claim, why wouldn't the oil companies put it in the oil to start with? Remember that "Slick 50" teflon based crap? In the case of the zinc additive, however, it is not some "snake oil" with wild claims. The additive is just to get back to the formulation of oil you could buy last year. Also, I believe there are at least 2 formulations of the Valvoline VR1. If it is rated SAE SM, or has the dreaded "energy saver" logo, I wouldn't use it. ===================================== Thanks, Brian, that is the info I was looking for. I wrote directly to the makers of STP and didn't get a direct answer as to how much (ppm) of the zinc additive was in it -- only that it has 4 times the amount as what was originally in the motor oils before they cut way back. Were you able to get that ppm number for both of these products? Can you share it with us? Thanks. Larry Daniels From dwoerpel at wi.net Mon Sep 3 10:53:45 2007 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 11:53:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Re: ZDDP, Site feedback from Valvoline.com] Message-ID: <46DC3C19.4050900@wi.net> Received this from Valvoline after I read some of your replies. Dave 59 MGA 1500 59 :{) 05 MCS Burlington WI >Valvoline wrote: The oil industry per ILSAC had to only decrease the levels of ZDDP (Zinc) in certain viscosity to meet new emission standards. The ILSAC rated oils still have an average of .085 levels of zinc. Testing has shown on standard OEM set ups that used mild camshafts will still get plenty of protection from the new rated oils. There is an exception when it comes to extreme aftermarket applications. If you have a high performance solid lifter set up with an aggressive cam then you will need to use a quality Racing Oil or Fleet Oil for break in and normal usage. These oils have an increased level of Zinc that will range from .14 to .16 and will provide plenty of protection. From bwboss at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 3 11:59:55 2007 From: bwboss at sbcglobal.net (Brian Boss) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 10:59:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP In-Reply-To: <001501c7ee41$ca498810$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <656318.83359.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Charles Navarro tested some additives in addition to oils the results are near the bottom of the page at the URL in my original message. Quoting from his site: Name Vis P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Detergents (ppm) API Date Type Source GM EOS Assembly Lube 5762 6221 8265 01/07 O/A Blackstone STP Blue 1704 2436 88 11/05 O/A Staveley STP Red 2115 3932 901 11/05 O/A Staveley Larry Daniels wrote: ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Boss To: Larry Daniels ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:22 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] ZDDP again / STP My thinking is that there is nothing wrong with any decent oil except the reduced zinc level. The EOS product has around 50% more zinc so you can use less of it to get to the desired level. Also, STP claims to modify viscosity. If I have the correct weight oil for my application and change it before it breaks down, why would I want to modify the viscosity with an additive. I have never had a high opinion of oil additives in general. If whatever is in them had all the magic properties the makers claim, why wouldn't the oil companies put it in the oil to start with? Remember that "Slick 50" teflon based crap? In the case of the zinc additive, however, it is not some "snake oil" with wild claims. The additive is just to get back to the formulation of oil you could buy last year. Also, I believe there are at least 2 formulations of the Valvoline VR1. If it is rated SAE SM, or has the dreaded "energy saver" logo, I wouldn't use it. ===================================== Thanks, Brian, that is the info I was looking for. I wrote directly to the makers of STP and didn't get a direct answer as to how much (ppm) of the zinc additive was in it -- only that it has 4 times the amount as what was originally in the motor oils before they cut way back. Were you able to get that ppm number for both of these products? Can you share it with us? Thanks. Larry Daniels From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Sep 3 12:58:12 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 11:58:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 20W50 Oil (Was: Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries) In-Reply-To: <20070902175721.86E547000086@mwinf6007.orange.nl> Message-ID: <372040.35394.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Bert Palte wrote: > *** New problem: It seems that the 20W50-grade oil for our older > cars is now more difficult to get at! What's the advantage to using 20W50 (other than in a worn engine)? David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. http://farechase.yahoo.com/ From leylandauto at yahoo.com Mon Sep 3 13:16:47 2007 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 12:16:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 20W50 Oil (Was: Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries) In-Reply-To: <372040.35394.qm@web42103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <19116.6741.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> You mean other than being the factory spec oil grade in the manuals? Carl French David Breneman wrote: --- Bert Palte wrote: > *** New problem: It seems that the 20W50-grade oil for our older > cars is now more difficult to get at! What's the advantage to using 20W50 (other than in a worn engine)? David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. http://farechase.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ leylandauto at yahoo.com Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs --------------------------------- Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Sep 3 17:26:26 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 16:26:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links In-Reply-To: <46D9B072.40703@bellsouth.net> References: <004001c7ebf5$2d3b14b0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> <46D9B072.40703@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: Subaru 360 Check the Wiki page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_360 On 9/1/07, Pat Harris - sammler wrote: > > Subaru 360 - possibly as old as the late 1960s - I don't know how long > they were produced. > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From RJohn50603 at aol.com Mon Sep 3 18:43:29 2007 From: RJohn50603 at aol.com (RJohn50603 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:43:29 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC Message-ID: W5WZY here in Dallas! ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From UnclStevie at aol.com Mon Sep 3 20:02:45 2007 From: UnclStevie at aol.com (UnclStevie at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 22:02:45 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links (Hans Duinhoven) Message-ID: Hi, I'm normally a lurker, but the pix of the Fiat interested me. I know of a private lot at the "shore" NJ that looks like the one pictured, complete with Caddy, fence and weird cars. Could it be? Thanx Steve Edelstein MGA and weird car nut ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From eugeneb at nni.com Mon Sep 3 20:43:50 2007 From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 22:43:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Re: ZDDP, Site feedback from Valvoline.com] In-Reply-To: <46DC3C19.4050900@wi.net> Message-ID: > plenty of protection > from the new rated oils. There is an exception when it > comes to extreme aftermarket applications. If you have a high performance solid lifter set up with an aggressive cam then you will need to use a quality Racing Oil or Fleet Oil for break in and normal usage. These oils have an increased level of Zinc that will range from .14 to .16 and will provide plenty of protection. Can I assume that the quality racing oil that they refer to is the Valvoline VR-1 ? Gene Balinski 80 B --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ From dwoerpel at wi.net Mon Sep 3 22:44:58 2007 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 23:44:58 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Re: ZDDP, Site feedback from Valvoline.com] In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46DCE2CA.4030609@wi.net> Good, you caught that also! It was VR-1 on which I was basing my inquiry so that was my assumption; no response on my 2nd inquiry to clarify. ????? Dave 59 MGA 1500 59 :{) 05MCS Burlington WI Eugene Balinski wrote: > Can I assume that the quality racing oil that they refer to > is the Valvoline VR-1 ? > > Gene Balinski > > 80 B From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Tue Sep 4 08:56:49 2007 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 08:56:49 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? In-Reply-To: References: <001701c7ee2d$d47561b0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B27@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> My Moss aftermarket boots are still good after two years. But I have noticed that there has been a problem with other cheaper/defective rubber items. I don't know if it is maybe a bad batch process or just something overall poor in rubber quality. Last year I had one of those Moss braided fuel line hoses go brittle, split, and start leaking in less than two years after I replaced what was likely the original decades old line. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Root Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 8:56 AM To: Bob Donahue Cc: mgs Subject: Re: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? Ok, you made me go look. I got mine from Moss 5 years ago. They are still fine. Could it be something you are doing while installing? Or is the rack messed up? Maybe the ones made more recently are cheap/defective. From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 4 12:42:08 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 13:42:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Chicagoland ARCA and IRL tickets -- this weekend Message-ID: <000b01c7ef23$91753560$6401a8c0@Larry> My neighbor gave me tickets for the ARCA and IRL races this Saturday and Sunday. 2 tickets for each race. I'm not going to use them. Anybody want them? Larry Daniels From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Tue Sep 4 13:57:24 2007 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 15:57:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] K&N replacement filter for 67 MGB Message-ID: <46DDB8A4.70007@tampabay.rr.com> Listers and of course, Kelvin, What is the K&N # for use in a 67 BGT with the stock filter cans? I have confusing info between a K&N # 2230 and a 2400. TIA, Dave Houser From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 4 14:12:50 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 13:12:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? In-Reply-To: <001701c7ee2d$d47561b0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA120A2@kb1.mossmotors.com> Currently and since about 2002 the Moss 263-280 rack seal (as used in the 263-380 kit) has been manufactured by a company that specializes in C.V. boots for modern applications. The material they are made from is Polybutadiene synthetic rubber which is the same type of material used to increase longevity in tires. Since 2005 these boots have been packaged under the "Classic Gold" brand which is a Moss Motors house brand only used for parts that: 1. Are manufactured specifically for Moss Motors 2. Have much lower than normal return history for any reason 3. Have been approved by a critical board made up of members of management, purchasing, marketing and sales staff. One vote against is enough for the product to stay in a white box. Products made out of this material should have a minimum life of 5 years. Anything less would qualify as defective and should be reported to Moss. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Donahue > Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 6:25 AM > To: mgs > Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? > > The better original steering rack boots (263-385) are no longer available > from > Moss. I've had miserable experience with the cheaper (263-380). Are good > boots available any where? > > My B is a daily driver. I find the rubber parts are the least reliable. > (Why > can't they make reproduction parts out of the same rubber material that > OEMs > use?) > > Looking back in my maintenance records: > > 263-385 last about 3 years. > > 263-380 last about 6 months. > > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) > Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 > 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 > Member: NEMGTR #11470 > NAMGBR # 7-3336 > Hoosier MGB Club > Olde Octagons of Indiana From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Sep 4 14:20:57 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 22:20:57 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] A great MGCGT site... Message-ID: <008001c7ef31$1a64ad30$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Hi list, Just by occasion I passed along a very nice website of a former Dutch lister Jouke Bloem. http://www.mgcars.eu/ appears to contain lots of info just about the MG CGT. Enjoy! Cheers, Hans 71 BGT From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 4 14:34:46 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 13:34:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B27@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA120B4@kb1.mossmotors.com> David: Like most suppliers, Moss sources from many different vendors and manufacturers. It is always a battle keeping on top of quality issues especially with the market place and materials constantly changing. As you noted, there can be problems (and often are) with rubber, which is why we sample all rubber components made for us. We also have a batch number molded into the part so we can check by batch. Rubber can be too stiff, or too soft or the bonding material can be substandard allowing the rubber to fall apart. The learning process is continual and involves many manufacturers and suppliers. As the British car market moves from major O.E. manufacturer to small batch specialty shop production there are going to be constant issues regarding product quality that have to be resolved to keep our cars safely on the road. Fuel hose issues are another matter. The gasoline blends being supplied in more and more markets are not compatible with most of the rubber that has historically been supplied for the automotive market. Large O.E. companies like Gates Rubber will no longer warranty their products against vapor permeability and leakage. The last technical expert I talked with admitted that they had no idea what the long term effects of fuel additives will have on their products. Personally, I've had "Earles" brand braided stainless steel covered hose fail in under 6 months where a high spot in the routing allowed vapor to attack the inner rubber sheath. Again, there is a lot to learn about the materials that need to be used to keep our cars safe. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Councill, David > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:57 AM > To: Paul Root; Bob Donahue > Cc: mgs > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? > > My Moss aftermarket boots are still good after two years. But I have > noticed that there has been a problem with other cheaper/defective > rubber items. I don't know if it is maybe a bad batch process or just > something overall poor in rubber quality. Last year I had one of those > Moss braided fuel line hoses go brittle, split, and start leaking in > less than two years after I replaced what was likely the original > decades old line. > > David Councill > 67 BGT > 72 B From blair at ifd.mv.com Tue Sep 4 16:10:02 2007 From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 18:10:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] TD Fuel Pump References: <008101c7788c$1c58ba80$6400a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> <001701c79113$d7da1bb0$9f637dc7@Terrafirma> <463FE2EC.7050006@sinclair.net> <00ca01c791d8$bbe307d0$9f637dc7@Terrafirma> Message-ID: <0fc401c7ef40$59558230$94637dc7@Terrafirma> Anyone remember this post I made in the begining of the summer? Well, it happened again last night... WTF? I removed the disks, freed' them up and all was well until I snapped the elbow off tightening everything back up. So what is going on with the fuel nowadays? My tank isn't sloshed with sealer, so it's not being eaten and re-deposited in the check valves... I buy Mobil gasoline (not a plug or demerit, there is only one gas station in town). Is anyone else seeing this? Blair ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blair J. Weiss" To: "Dave and Liz DuBois" ; Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:24 PM Subject: Re: TD Fuel Pump > Prize goes to Dave! The two check valve disks were stuck. Thanks to > everyone for their input.... the suggestions about stabil causing grud are > disturbing, considering, the primary use for stabil is for storage of > gasoline... now the big question... what do I drive to work tommorow... a > MG or the Ducati? :) > > > Blair > '53 TD > '78 B > '80 B > '01 Ducati 748 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave and Liz DuBois" > To: "Blair J. Weiss" > Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 10:39 PM > Subject: Re: TD Fuel Pump > > >> Blair, >> >> I have attached a fuel delivery troubleshooting guide that may help you >> isolate where the problem is. If the pump is running and no gas is >> being pumped, the irst thing to look for is an air leak on the inlet >> side of the pump. This would not necessarily result in gas leaking ot >> if the leak is very close to the pump, as at that point the line is >> higher than the top of the fuel tank. I recently had a pump that i had >> restored for a client come back to me because it wouldn't pump fuel >> (although the indications that he had was that the pump wouldn't run at >> all). I found that the valve disks were stuck to the valve seats and >> were corroded. When I asked the client if he had put anything in the >> tank, he admitted to having used Stabil in the gas to keep it from going >> bad over the winter. when I put a query out on the bulletin board, a >> number of people said that they have had corrosion problems and valves >> sticking in the fuel pump after having used Stabil in the gas. The >> other possibility would be an inlet valve stuck open due to some debris >> being caught in it. >> >> Cheers, >> Dave From jkk at adams.net Tue Sep 4 18:58:19 2007 From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:58:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Where to get the GOOD steering rack boots? References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA120A2@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <002f01c7ef57$d9c136a0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dodd, Kelvin" > Products made out of this material should have a minimum life of 5 > years. Anything less would qualify as defective and should be reported > to Moss. > > > Well, that's a relief! I just replaced the boots on my '74B with a set from Moss and was just thinking "Great, I can look forward to replacing them in six months". It's not that big of a job, but still.... Thanks, Kelvin. Jim From eugeneb at nni.com Tue Sep 4 19:28:50 2007 From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 21:28:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] TD Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <0fc401c7ef40$59558230$94637dc7@Terrafirma> Message-ID: Blair, Do they put ethanol in the gasoline in your area ? I have heard of problems in the boating world with ethanol in the fuel causing problems with fuel lines and components. Gene 80 B On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 18:10:02 -0400 "Blair J. Weiss" wrote: > Anyone remember this post I made in the begining of the > summer? Well, it > happened again last night... WTF? I removed the disks, > freed' them up and > all was well until I snapped the elbow off tightening > everything back up. > > So what is going on with the fuel nowadays? My tank isn't > sloshed with > sealer, so it's not being eaten and re-deposited in the > check valves... I > buy Mobil gasoline (not a plug or demerit, there is only > one gas station in > town). > > Is anyone else seeing this? > > Blair > > > > > > > > Blair > > '53 TD > > '78 B > > '80 B > > '01 Ducati 748 > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ From 1971mgb at cox.net Tue Sep 4 21:23:40 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 23:23:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] fuel pump? Message-ID: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Talking about fuel pumps, (where we?) anyway I filled up on gas tonight, got on the interstate and suddenly lost power, no matter how much I depressed the gas pedal I was barely able to maintain speed, after a few minutes I suddenly I got full power back and the engine pulled strong, I then drove 60 or more miles with out any incident, I'm betting some obstruction got in the fuel line, or the fuel pump is going slowly, any thoughts? From 1971mgb at cox.net Tue Sep 4 21:25:10 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 23:25:10 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fw: fuel pump? Message-ID: <002201c7ef6c$5d4ef2f0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> ----- Original Message ----- From: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net> To: "MG LIST" Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 11:23 PM Subject: [Mgs] fuel pump? > Talking about fuel pumps, (where we?) anyway I filled up on gas tonight, got > on the interstate and suddenly lost power, no matter how much I depressed the > gas pedal I was barely able to maintain speed, after a few minutes I suddenly > I got full power back and the engine pulled strong, I then drove 60 or more > miles with out any incident, I'm betting some obstruction got in the fuel > line, or the fuel pump is going slowly, any thoughts? car is a 71 MGB. > _______________________________________________ > 1971mgb at cox.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 9:14 AM From lbcs at embarqmail.com Tue Sep 4 21:35:53 2007 From: lbcs at embarqmail.com (Bill Miller (LBCs)) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 23:35:53 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fw: fuel pump? In-Reply-To: <002201c7ef6c$5d4ef2f0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> References: <002201c7ef6c$5d4ef2f0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <001c01c7ef6d$dd210170$0200a8c0@bills> My fuel pump (SU) did that occasionally before it finally died. My bet is you hit a bump and it jarred it enough to free the points If you have an SU, be sure to carry something to hit it with or you will get stranded. Time for a rebuild or replacement. -Bill -----Original Message----- > Talking about fuel pumps, (where we?) anyway I filled up on gas tonight, Got on the interstate and suddenly lost power, no matter how much I depressed the gas pedal I was barely able to maintain speed From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Sep 5 02:28:13 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 09:28:13 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] fuel pump? References: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <00c201c7ef98$6f1a23c0$0200a8c0@Three> Was the tach steady or flickering while this was happening? If steady it's probably HT or fuel, if flickering it will be ignition LT. If the former and the engine was still running at all (you say that you were barely able to maintain speed, which says to me it was) then the pump was probably still pumping but there was an obstruction. Wait until it happens again and if it is convenient remove a petrol feed pipe from a carb and direct it into a container, and with the ignition on it should deliver *at least* one Imperial pint per minute, and in practice nearer two, steadily and consistently, and with minimal bubbles. You can do that at any time of course, but if the problem isn't evident at the time may need to keep it running some time before it occurs again. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Talking about fuel pumps, (where we?) anyway I filled up on gas tonight, > got > on the interstate and suddenly lost power, no matter how much I depressed > the > gas pedal I was barely able to maintain speed, From blair at ifd.mv.com Wed Sep 5 03:05:16 2007 From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 05:05:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fw: fuel pump? References: <002201c7ef6c$5d4ef2f0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <004301c7ef9b$e1029280$9c637dc7@Terrafirma> also for giggles, check the level of oil in your dashpots... if one of them stuck, you might have the same problem. Blair ----- Original Message ----- From: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net> To: "MG LIST" Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 11:25 PM Subject: [Mgs] Fw: fuel pump? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net> > To: "MG LIST" > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 11:23 PM > Subject: [Mgs] fuel pump? > > >> Talking about fuel pumps, (where we?) anyway I filled up on gas tonight, > got >> on the interstate and suddenly lost power, no matter how much I depressed > the >> gas pedal I was barely able to maintain speed, after a few minutes I > suddenly >> I got full power back and the engine pulled strong, I then drove 60 or > more >> miles with out any incident, I'm betting some obstruction got in the fuel >> line, or the fuel pump is going slowly, any thoughts? car is a 71 MGB. >> _______________________________________________ >> 1971mgb at cox.net From barneymg at mgaguru.com Wed Sep 5 04:42:40 2007 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 05:42:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] fuel pump? In-Reply-To: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> References: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <20070905104300.525ED1879D6@autox.team.net> At 11:23 PM 9/4/2007 -0400, 1971-red-mgb wrote: >.... I filled up on gas tonight, got on the interstate and suddenly >lost power, no matter how much I depressed the gas pedal I was >barely able to maintain speed, after a few minutes I suddenly I got >full power back and the engine pulled strong, .... Fuel starvation or overflow on one carburretor, possibly a float valve stuck closed or open. Fuel pump slow, possible obstruction. Immediately after fill up, a little water in the fuel can cause the same symptoms. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From james.f.juhas at snet.net Wed Sep 5 08:32:42 2007 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 10:32:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] fuel pump? In-Reply-To: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> References: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <46DEBE0A.9050702@snet.net> When I encountered this same problem in my 1970 MGB, I discovered a clogged fuel filter. It wasn't the first thing I checked, but it should have been. Simple stuff first. 1971-red-mgb wrote: >Talking about fuel pumps, (where we?) anyway I filled up on gas tonight, got >on the interstate and suddenly lost power, no matter how much I depressed the >gas pedal I was barely able to maintain speed, after a few minutes I suddenly >I got full power back and the engine pulled strong, I then drove 60 or more >miles with out any incident, I'm betting some obstruction got in the fuel >line, or the fuel pump is going slowly, any thoughts? >_______________________________________________ >james.f.juhas at snet.net > >Edit your replies > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From dwoerpel at wi.net Wed Sep 5 09:42:29 2007 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 10:42:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] pulley Message-ID: <46DECE65.8050100@wi.net> Hey Gurus, I'm rebuilding a C39 Dynamo (generator), it has the tach gearbox extension. The drive pulley is 3 1/8" is diameter. I'm used to the 3 5/8". What's 3 1/8" application; Mini? Just like to know what I have and know it's been discussed before but couldn't find it archived. Thanks, Dave 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 05 MCS Burlington WI From jmc987 at verizon.net Wed Sep 5 10:24:19 2007 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (joseph cianciotti) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 12:24:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Trying to locate Steven Wang Message-ID: I'm looking for Steven Wang and Sports Car Haven in Saint James, New York. The number I have is disconnected and the directory shows an unassociated business in Babylon. Would anyone know how and/or where I can find him? Thanks, Joseph 67 MGB Roadster From rocknatural at gmail.com Wed Sep 5 11:04:35 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 12:04:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] fuel pump? In-Reply-To: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> References: <001a01c7ef6c$27c29b00$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <46DEE1A3.2010802@gmail.com> 1971-red-mgb wrote: > Talking about fuel pumps, (where we?) anyway I filled up on gas tonight, got > on the interstate and suddenly lost power, no matter how much I depressed the > gas pedal I was barely able to maintain speed, after a few minutes I suddenly > I got full power back and the engine pulled strong, I then drove 60 or more > miles with out any incident, I'm betting some obstruction got in the fuel > line, or the fuel pump is going slowly, any thoughts? Might have been water in the fuel. -The Roxter -- From battanhr at comcast.net Wed Sep 5 13:07:25 2007 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 12:07:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation In-Reply-To: <000001c7eced$3ed047b0$0f4d1645@normoffice> Message-ID: <20070905190812.A2003187A34@autox.team.net> I'd be interested in seeing the instructions if they can be posted somewhere - or if I could copy them and send them back to you. Howard Battan 54 MGTF 57 MGA 79 MGB -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+battanhr=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+battanhr=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Norm Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 4:10 PM To: MGVR at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation I don't know if anyone has need for these instructions or not. But, in cleaning out some stuff in my garage, I found 10 pages of detailed instructions from Vicy Brit on interior installation. It covers everything from carpet to side panels & seats. Does anyone know if this brochure is still available? Norm No longer with an MGB Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com Wed Sep 5 17:34:16 2007 From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 19:34:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation In-Reply-To: <20070905190812.A2003187A34@autox.team.net> References: <20070905190812.A2003187A34@autox.team.net> Message-ID: If you call Victoria British, they'll mail you a copy. This isn't the Holy Grail... it's part number A-MGIK, and it's free. Not a bad set of instructions, from what I remember: though I've never had a copy handy when I've done interior work. Matt On Sep 5, 2007, at 3:07 PM, Howard Battan wrote: > I'd be interested in seeing the instructions if they can be posted > somewhere > - or if I could copy them and send them back to you. > > -----Original Message----- > > I don't know if anyone has need for these instructions or not. > But, in > cleaning out some stuff in my garage, I found 10 pages of detailed > instructions from Vicy Brit on interior installation. It covers > everything > from carpet to side panels & seats. > > Does anyone know if this brochure is still available? > > Norm > No longer with an MGB From battanhr at comcast.net Wed Sep 5 17:52:25 2007 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 16:52:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20070905235313.C689D187A20@autox.team.net> Thanks, Matt. Norm is going to send me a copy. It's not rocket science, but sometimes little tricks can really help. Howard -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+battanhr=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+battanhr=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt Trebelhorn Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:34 PM To: MGVR at yahoogroups.com; MGS List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation If you call Victoria British, they'll mail you a copy. This isn't the Holy Grail... it's part number A-MGIK, and it's free. Not a bad set of instructions, from what I remember: though I've never had a copy handy when I've done interior work. Matt From Wilkmanracing at aol.com Thu Sep 6 00:26:56 2007 From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 02:26:56 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters Message-ID: Which is best, paper or felt oil filters? My MGA has the felt type. I noticed when I changed the filter the other day, that the felt element was crammed tightly against the filter body. I had to use needle nose pliers to get it out, it was so tight. This led me to wonder how any filtering could take place, if the oil could not freely pass between the inside and outside of the filter element. I'm looking forward to hearing the wisdom of the list. Thanks. Bill Wilkman ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From don at napanet.net Thu Sep 6 00:38:24 2007 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 23:38:24 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20070905233234.02e93a48@pop.napanet.net> This is my observation from using both types of filters many years ago in my MGA 1600: A felt filter would give about 5-10 pounds more oil pressure than a paper one. That sold me on the felt ones. I don't know about how much filtering was going on though- for all I know the diminished pressure indicated more effective filtration. Don Scott 1962 MGA 1973 MGB GT 1991 Miata BRG At 11:26 PM 09/05/2007, Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote: >Which is best, paper or felt oil filters? My MGA has the felt type. I >noticed when I changed the filter the other day, that the felt element was >crammed tightly against the filter body. I had to use needle nose pliers >to get it >out, it was so tight. This led me to wonder how any filtering could take >place, if the oil could not freely pass between the inside and outside of >the >filter element. I'm looking forward to hearing the wisdom of the list. > >Thanks. > >Bill Wilkman -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.6/991 - Release Date: 09/05/2007 2:55 PM From kger at plex.com Thu Sep 6 06:50:59 2007 From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 08:50:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel device identification? Message-ID: <46DFBF73.29080.4B63C526@kger.plex.com> I was messing around under the hood of my '79 B last evening and found an unrelated problem: With just the fuel pressure of having the ignition turned on for a few moments I found a minor fuel leak. The leak is coming from an object just past the fuel filter. It's a small gray cannister thingy, with some kind of spring-loaded push- button-like contraption on top. The fuel goes into one side of the cannister and out the other. (Interestingly, I noticed the word "INLET" under the what is currently the outlet side.) It's held in place by a ring on the shelf of the firewall -- not tightly, but just snugly enough that it can be inserted into and removed from the ring by hand. What is this device? I need to to know what to call this thing in order to buy a new one. A look-over of the Haynes manual's diagrams did not help, but maybe I missed it. -- Keith G. 1979 B From frankk at intap.net Thu Sep 6 07:12:13 2007 From: frankk at intap.net (Frank) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 09:12:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel device identification? References: <46DFBF73.29080.4B63C526@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: <001b01c7f087$8aadddd0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU> Keith: Can that be the fuel cutoff inertia switch for when your B goes belly up? You can remove it and run the fuel line directly to your filter with no problem unless you desire originality. Just don't flip the B! If it's a 79 then it has about the same lack of power as my 80 LE so there is little chance of too much power in a turn! If you really want one I probably have a spare. Frank "Swamp Yankee" Krajewski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith G." To: Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 8:50 AM Subject: [Mgs] Fuel device identification? >I was messing around under the hood of my '79 B last evening and > found an unrelated problem: With just the fuel pressure of having > the ignition turned on for a few moments I found a minor fuel leak. > > The leak is coming from an object just past the fuel filter. It's a > small gray cannister thingy, with some kind of spring-loaded push- > button-like contraption on top. The fuel goes into one side of the > cannister and out the other. (Interestingly, I noticed the word > "INLET" under the what is currently the outlet side.) It's held in > place by a ring on the shelf of the firewall -- not tightly, but just > snugly enough that it can be inserted into and removed from the ring > by hand. > > What is this device? I need to to know what to call this thing in > order to buy a new one. A look-over of the Haynes manual's diagrams > did not help, but maybe I missed it. > > -- > Keith G. > 1979 B > _______________________________________________ From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Sep 6 07:21:11 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 09:21:11 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters Message-ID: In a message dated 05/09/2007 11:38:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, don at napanet.net writes: A felt filter would give about 5-10 pounds more oil pressure than a paper one. That sold me on the felt ones. I don't know about how much filtering was going on though- for all I know the diminished pressure indicated more effective filtration. ____________________________________ Nice thing about the felt ones is that you can pull them apart and see just what is getting into them. A sudden increase in brass bits is a much kinder indicator that something is going astray than that nasty pounding accompanied by a sudden loss of oil pressure in the middle of the next race..... Bill From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Sep 6 08:11:29 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 15:11:29 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters References: Message-ID: <006a01c7f090$3a230940$0200a8c0@Three> Depends on where the gauge is. If between pump and filter a higher reading indicates more resistance and hence less flow through the bearings. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > A felt filter would give about 5-10 pounds more oil pressure than a paper > one. From rolindsay at yahoo.com Thu Sep 6 09:16:51 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 08:16:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters In-Reply-To: <006a01c7f090$3a230940$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <674700.14210.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Do you guys go by the old adage of a minimum of "5psi/1000rpm" saying? That's what we used to say when we drove Triumphs. (Please pardon the French.) I think you are exactly right when you state that pressure is just a surrogate for flow rate through the bearings. That is the real measure and I like to think in terms of bearing cooling more so than lubrication. My Italian car idles at 60psi and operates anything off idle at 90psi! It also has a fire pump for an oil pump using a dry sump design with twin scavenger pumps running in the sump. The actual lines to/from the high pressure pump and oil cooler are steel jacketed lines about 1-3/8" OD. Lubrication and bearing cooling are serious concerns as these 3.0 liter V8 engines can run at 7700rpm red-line all day long - and do! Fun thread. Thanks to all. rick various cars From riverside at cedar-rapids.net Thu Sep 6 09:25:06 2007 From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 10:25:06 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters References: <674700.14210.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <008301c7f09a$1c0e5680$28d6fc04@your55e5f9e3d2> Smokey Yunick's rule of thumb was 10 psi/krpm measured at the "end of the line" my alfa 2L in stock form makes oil pressure like your V8. I like spin on filters - Wix to be specific. not hard to cut 'em open for inspection. I have converted many Brit and Italian cars to spin on and have not noticed any oil press drop when using the Wix filter. art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Lindsay" To: "MGS" Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters > Do you guys go by the old adage of a minimum of > "5psi/1000rpm" saying? That's what we used to say > when we drove Triumphs. (Please pardon the French.) > > I think you are exactly right when you state that > pressure is just a surrogate for flow rate through the > bearings. That is the real measure and I like to > think in terms of bearing cooling more so than > lubrication. > > My Italian car idles at 60psi and operates anything > off idle at 90psi! It also has a fire pump for an oil > pump using a dry sump design with twin scavenger pumps > running in the sump. The actual lines to/from the > high pressure pump and oil cooler are steel jacketed > lines about 1-3/8" OD. Lubrication and bearing > cooling are serious concerns as these 3.0 liter V8 > engines can run at 7700rpm red-line all day long - and > do! > > Fun thread. Thanks to all. > > rick > various cars > _______________________________________________ > riverside at cedar-rapids.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/988 - Release Date: 9/4/2007 > 9:14 AM From peter at nosimport.com Thu Sep 6 09:37:49 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 10:37:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070906103335.034f5d50@nosimport.com> I've seen scoring on crankshafts at the oil feed holes and found bits of felt in the main bearing channels. Not on every engine, but enough that I use paper exclusively. This on MGs, Jag, and Land Rovers. Peter C ===== At 08:21 AM 9/6/2007, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 05/09/2007 11:38:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >don at napanet.net writes: > >A felt filter would give about 5-10 pounds more oil pressure than a paper >one. That sold me on the felt ones. I don't know about how much filtering >was going on though- for all I know the diminished pressure indicated more >effective filtration. > > > > >____________________________________ > > >Nice thing about the felt ones is that you can pull them apart and see just >what is getting into them. A sudden increase in brass bits is a much kinder >indicator that something is going astray than that nasty pounding accompanied >by a sudden loss of oil pressure in the middle of the next race..... > >Bill From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Sep 6 10:34:02 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 12:34:02 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters Message-ID: In a message dated 9/6/2007 8:17:23 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rolindsay at yahoo.com writes: My Italian car idles at 60psi and operates anything off idle at 90psi! It also has a fire pump for an oil pump using a dry sump design with twin scavenger pumps running in the sump. The actual lines to/from the high pressure pump and oil cooler are steel jacketed lines about 1-3/8" OD. Lubrication and bearing cooling are serious concerns as these 3.0 liter V8 engines can run at 7700rpm red-line all day long - and do! ____________________________________ Only 7700? :-) Mine redlines at 7900....(I don't normally run my MGA above 7700 though!) There are two issues here. One is 'washing' the bearings. That is old hat thought and bearings should have no problem with high pressure given adequate clearance. Some reason the Italian cars use high pressure - my Lambo is supposed to run to 7 Bar - and do not have problems with that. The other is mechanical wear. If you put the sort of drag through the MG oil pump that this sort of pressure entails, especially on race cars where you are running high RPM, you WILL wear the gears out in no time. Stronger gears are one solution, but the best thing to do is abandon the old 'rule' of 10 psi per 1000 RPM developed with American V8s and concentrate on volume, not pressure. 60-70 psi will serve for just about anything. It is too bad we can't go to dry sump with external pumps just as it is too bad we have to screw around with distributors and can't use crank fired ignition and coil packs and toss the old distributor in the trash can, but for racing at least, they are a no-no. BTW, the reason the Italian engines don't have mechanical problems with oil pump drive is that usually they are crank driven through hefty gears.... Bill From Mike at sportscarslimited.net Thu Sep 6 11:04:11 2007 From: Mike at sportscarslimited.net (Michael Singleton) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 10:04:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Actually, the people who have noted an increase in oil pressure are probably seeing the result of increased resistance to oil flow in the system. Whether or not it filters better is a conversation that should be taking place. None of the more modern filters are of the felt style. That being said, the MG engine is a very old design, dating to the early 50's with tolerances to match. Modern engine designers, including those who are working on designs which date to the same time, are working with improved machining methodology, materials, etc. which have led to a more precise piece of machinery. Additionally, oil change intervals have gone from 3,000 miles to something like 7,500 miles. I would be more than comfortable with any modern filter design. Especially since the oil change interval should be kept to 3,000 miles, or once a year, which is hardly long enough to lead to the kind accumulation of dirt and metal detrious that will do the engine harm. Mike Michael Singleton Sportscars Ltd 10170 Croydon Way Suite M Sacramento, CA 95826 Mike at sportscarslimited.net (916)366-0330 www.sportscarslimited.net -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mike=sportscarslimited.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mike=sportscarslimited.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Wilkmanracing at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 11:27 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil Filters Which is best, paper or felt oil filters? My MGA has the felt type. I noticed when I changed the filter the other day, that the felt element was crammed tightly against the filter body. I had to use needle nose pliers to get it out, it was so tight. This led me to wonder how any filtering could take place, if the oil could not freely pass between the inside and outside of the filter element. I'm looking forward to hearing the wisdom of the list. Thanks. Bill Wilkman From bmcspares at aol.com Thu Sep 6 11:29:13 2007 From: bmcspares at aol.com (British Motor Classics, Ltd.) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 13:29:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Still needing... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C9BEC29413B0A2-EF4-8743@MBLK-M03.sysops.aol.com> I am still in search of a good useable AMCO manufactured centre console to fit in my '69 MGC. Many said they had em but no one has so far come up with one. Thanks Jon Nyhus ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From mghirsch at netzero.net Thu Sep 6 12:12:30 2007 From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 13:12:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Paper or Felt Oil FIlters Message-ID: <008701c7f0b1$80099de0$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25> IIRC, the take off for oil pressure is downstream from the filter. Therefore, an increase in oil pressure would be do to increased flow through the filter. In another life, I worked for a company that sold filters. There were basically two types-a surface filter with pores of a specific size that would stop particles bigger than the holes. The other type was a depth filter, which trapped particles as they hit the fibers. Picture the first type a sieve and the second type as a thick forest. If you were to fire a rifle into a forest, the bullet is apt to hit a tree rather than pass through the forest. Depth filters give better flow and have a larger capacity to hold particles. Modern screw on filters are surface types, the felt is a depth filter. Maynard From doddk at mossmotors.com Thu Sep 6 12:20:13 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 11:20:13 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel device identification? In-Reply-To: <46DFBF73.29080.4B63C526@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA123DF@kb1.mossmotors.com> Keith: Frank did have the correct answer, it is a mechanical fuel shutoff valve which operates if the car rolls over. It's very unusual to see them as they had problems with leakage due to bimetallic expansion. British Leyland did send out a recommendation to their dealerships to remove them if they leaked, which most did during the warranty period. There was no suggested replacement, as the vehicle is also fitted with an electrical roll over switch under the dash which performs the same function. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith G. > Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 5:51 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Fuel device identification? > > I was messing around under the hood of my '79 B last evening and > found an unrelated problem: With just the fuel pressure of having > the ignition turned on for a few moments I found a minor fuel leak. > > The leak is coming from an object just past the fuel filter. It's a > small gray cannister thingy, with some kind of spring-loaded push- > button-like contraption on top. The fuel goes into one side of the > cannister and out the other. (Interestingly, I noticed the word > "INLET" under the what is currently the outlet side.) It's held in > place by a ring on the shelf of the firewall -- not tightly, but just > snugly enough that it can be inserted into and removed from the ring > by hand. > > What is this device? I need to to know what to call this thing in > order to buy a new one. A look-over of the Haynes manual's diagrams > did not help, but maybe I missed it. > > -- > Keith G. > 1979 B From Wilkmanracing at aol.com Thu Sep 6 12:49:38 2007 From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 14:49:38 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Spin-On Filters (was Paper or Felt Filters) Message-ID: After reading the responses to my posting on paper versus felt filters, I'm thinking maybe the best solution is to replace the stock filter arrangement with a spin-on filter. It occurs to me that the increased oil pressure associated with felt filters might be due to oil passing by the filter without actually going through it. In the case of the filter I recently removed, it was crammed so tightly up against the filter canister, that I could see no way oil could have passed through the filter. Maybe with the paper filter, there is an actual passage of oil through the filter element, and thus a lowering of the oil pressure With a spin-on filter, there would certainly be a passage of oil through the filtering element, as the internals are rigid. I would think, too, that the modern materials in a spin-on filter would allow a filtering action without reducing the oil pressure. Any thoughts on this? Bill Wilkman ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Sep 6 13:15:15 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:15:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel device identification? In-Reply-To: <46DFBF73.29080.4B63C526@kger.plex.com> References: <46DFBF73.29080.4B63C526@kger.plex.com> Message-ID: <46E051C3.5040806@gmail.com> That's the fuel cutoff switch. In a recent YouTube John Twist - University Motors video, he said by-pass them, they leak and are not safe. He didn't even mention if replacements are even available. Keith G. wrote: > I was messing around under the hood of my '79 B last evening and > found an unrelated problem: With just the fuel pressure of having > the ignition turned on for a few moments I found a minor fuel leak. > > The leak is coming from an object just past the fuel filter. It's a > small gray cannister thingy, with some kind of spring-loaded push- > button-like contraption on top. The fuel goes into one side of the > cannister and out the other. (Interestingly, I noticed the word > "INLET" under the what is currently the outlet side.) It's held in > place by a ring on the shelf of the firewall -- not tightly, but just > snugly enough that it can be inserted into and removed from the ring > by hand. > > What is this device? I need to to know what to call this thing in > order to buy a new one. A look-over of the Haynes manual's diagrams > did not help, but maybe I missed it. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Thu Sep 6 14:00:12 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 13:00:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Wassup Rick?? In-Reply-To: <674700.14210.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <138252.80894.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hey, Rick, since you haven't been posting 'what I've been doing lately with the B' I assume you're now driving it?! I've just cracked open the engine from the '76B. See my blog for updates. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From frankk at intap.net Thu Sep 6 14:40:33 2007 From: frankk at intap.net (frank) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 16:40:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Still needing... References: <8C9BEC29413B0A2-EF4-8743@MBLK-M03.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <003201c7f0c6$2debafc0$e68a0fce@D3N5Y331> Jon: Are they the same as for the MGB? I may have a spare MG AMCO console but do not know if the application is the same for the MGB and the MGC. I am certain someone on the list will know. Frank Krajewski ----- Original Message ----- From: "British Motor Classics, Ltd." To: Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 1:29 PM Subject: [Mgs] Still needing... >I am still in search of a good useable AMCO manufactured centre console to >fit in my '69 MGC. Many said they had em but no one has so far come up with >one. > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > Jon Nyhus > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - > http://mail.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > frankk at intap.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From dkeeble at verizon.net Thu Sep 6 15:22:42 2007 From: dkeeble at verizon.net (Donna&Doug Keeble) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 16:22:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] felt or paper? Message-ID: <46E06FA2.EC8A0844@verizon.net> I believe Aston Martin will not warranty a motor if a felt filter is found on it . Doug K. From eugeneb at nni.com Thu Sep 6 16:18:12 2007 From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 18:18:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fuel device identification? In-Reply-To: <46E051C3.5040806@gmail.com> Message-ID: I had problems with mine cutting out at the most inopportune moments. It is now bypassed. Moss does not have a replacement. Gene 80 B On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:15:15 -0500 Paul Root wrote: > That's the fuel cutoff switch. > > In a recent YouTube John Twist - University Motors video, > he said by-pass > them, they leak and are not safe. He didn't even mention > if replacements > are > even available. > > > > Keith G. wrote: > > I was messing around under the hood of my '79 B last > evening and > > found an unrelated problem: With just the fuel > pressure of having > > the ignition turned on for a few moments I found a > minor fuel leak. > > > > The leak is coming from an object just past the fuel > filter. It's a > > small gray cannister thingy, with some kind of > spring-loaded push- > > button-like contraption on top. The fuel goes into one > side of the > > cannister and out the other. (Interestingly, I noticed > the word > > "INLET" under the what is currently the outlet side.) > It's held in > > place by a ring on the shelf of the firewall -- not > tightly, but just > > snugly enough that it can be inserted into and removed > from the ring > > by hand. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ From schultejim at msn.com Fri Sep 7 07:50:52 2007 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 09:50:52 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] FW: Car for sale Message-ID: In case anyone might be interested in a Trumf (-; a friend's brother is selling this TR 8. I have no financial interest. The car is in California. Jim Schulte Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D. Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club Co-Coordinator MG 2008 Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler >From: CBRONSDON at aol.com >To: Annettekp at aol.com, bhecker1 at hotmail.com, schultejim at prodigy.net, >schultejim at msn.com >Subject: Car for sale >Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 00:02:09 EDT > >Here's the notice about Bruce's brother's car. >-Cathy > > > >************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL >at >http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of ForSale.doc] From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Fri Sep 7 09:11:48 2007 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 08:11:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can Message-ID: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400> I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. Thanks, Ron From PRNDL at sonic.net Fri Sep 7 09:28:29 2007 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 08:28:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can In-Reply-To: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: > I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put > it in a spray can Hi Ron. A lot of local automotive paint stores will do that. The local one here in Santa Rosa California (Hawley's Paint) does it for a very reasonable price. I've had it done several times. It works great! Call around. -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 09:32:17 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:32:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can / MGB LE wheels References: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <00b701c7f164$469c23d0$6401a8c0@Larry> Tower Paint 922 Oregon St. Oshkosh, WI 54902 (920)235-6520 Ask for Bill. They are only a few blocks from my office. I just picked up a few cans, myself. $16.95 ea. for enamel. BTW, for MGB LE owners, I picked up a couple cans of color and one of clear for my LE wheels. Bill said the Dbc 33728 Gray Met. looks pretty close. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Fine" To: Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 10:11 AM Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. Thanks, Ron _______________________________________________ ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007 3:18 PM From leylandauto at yahoo.com Fri Sep 7 10:49:07 2007 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 09:49:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can In-Reply-To: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <789722.32943.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Tower paint I have heard good things about. I have mine mixed up at my local NAPA but they have the codes thanks to my painter. Carl Ron Fine wrote: I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. Thanks, Ron --------------------------------- Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 12:13:05 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 13:13:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] LE wheels References: Message-ID: <00fc01c7f17a$bd90dc40$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Larry Daniels" Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 12:06 PM Subject: LE wheels Larry, saw your posting on the MGB digest. You wrote: ...Bill said the Dbc 33728 Gray Met. looks pretty close What is Dbc? a brand? If I go to a local auto paint place, will they understand this code? John Hed 80 LE ====================================== Sorry, John. Dbc stands for Deltron base coat (Deltron is a PPG product) and 33728 is the color that Bill at Tower Paint thinks most closely matches my LE wheels. Now, this color is based on my 28 year old wheels that are in need of restoration. Kelvin, didn't you say you had some new LE wheels made that very closely matched a well-preserved LE? Do you suppose you could get a paint color code from those for us? Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 12:28:39 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 13:28:39 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] For Whom the Belt Squeals Message-ID: <010801c7f17c$ea638d60$6401a8c0@Larry> I'm getting belt squeal on my 79 B upon acceleration. I put on a new belt and within a short while it does the same thing. The pulleys seem to be aligned well. I get about 1/2" to 5/8" of deflection in the middle of the longest run of the belt with moderate pressure. Any ideas? Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From ronking at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 12:34:33 2007 From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 11:34:33 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] British Car Meet this weekend Message-ID: <04cf01c7f17d$bd50bea0$6402a8c0@kingman> Anybody out there going to the British Car Meet in Palo Alto this weekend???? Ron '71 MGB From doddk at mossmotors.com Fri Sep 7 12:36:02 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 11:36:02 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] For Whom the Belt Squeals In-Reply-To: <010801c7f17c$ea638d60$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA12579@kb1.mossmotors.com> Larry: Check the width of the belt you are using. Too narrow of a belt will bottom out in the groove and not get sufficient loading of the sides of the vee to drive properly. The belt should be 9.5mm and when laid into the pulley groove should not bottom out. A problem with the alternator can also cause belt squeal. On your late car it is also possible for the pressed steel water pump pulley to fail, this will allow the belt to bottom out and not drive properly. Hope this helps. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Daniels > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 11:29 AM > To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List > Subject: [Mgs] For Whom the Belt Squeals > > I'm getting belt squeal on my 79 B upon acceleration. I put on a new belt > and > within a short while it does the same thing. > > The pulleys seem to be aligned well. I get about 1/2" to 5/8" of > deflection > in the middle of the longest run of the belt with moderate pressure. Any > ideas? > > > > Larry Daniels > > 79 MGB LE > 60 Bugeye > 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) > > "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it > doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it > shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From barrie at look.ca Fri Sep 7 13:01:28 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 15:01:28 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Steering gaiter Message-ID: The Haynes MGB manual, in the Steering rack gaiter section, says to "inject the correct amount and grade of oil." But nowhere does it say what the "correct amount" is....and how does one "inject" it?? It does say use 90 oil though. Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm PURVEYOR of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs High-tech sound deadening materials .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 13:23:27 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 12:23:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] British Car Meet this weekend In-Reply-To: <04cf01c7f17d$bd50bea0$6402a8c0@kingman> Message-ID: Unfortunately it conflicts with the California Melee, so I will be missing it again this year... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/7/07 11:34 AM, Ron King at ronking at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Anybody out there going to the British Car Meet in Palo Alto this weekend???? > > Ron > '71 MGB From ronking at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 13:30:42 2007 From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 12:30:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] British Car Meet this weekend References: Message-ID: <04ed01c7f185$951dc8d0$6402a8c0@kingman> Not to guilt trip anyone, but supposedly this is the last year for this event. Organizers are going to have to find another venue. Ron '71 MGB >> Anybody out there going to the British Car Meet in Palo Alto this >> weekend???? >> >> Ron >> '71 MGB > _______________________________________________ > ronking at sbcglobal.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From battanhr at comcast.net Fri Sep 7 14:41:25 2007 From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 13:41:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can In-Reply-To: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <20070907204217.2AD0A1879DC@autox.team.net> Paintscratch.com. I've used them a couple of time with excellent results. Howard -----Original Message----- Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. Thanks, Ron From schultejim at msn.com Fri Sep 7 15:54:29 2007 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 17:54:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] TR 8 for sale Message-ID: How's this? Sorry for the repeat contact:Bob Bronsdon 805-558-1110 The car lives in Simi Valley, CA. For Sale TR 8 for saleAffordable Classic: 1980 Triumph TR8 Convertible $10,000 >From Keith This one has been in California for 17 years and was in the garage for the last 10 or so. It has 49,400 miles on it and is registered and smog checked. It has had $4000 worth of work done on it to get it running but still needs plenty of restoration. It has new brakes and a new radiator, fuel pump, and lots of new pipes and hoses. The whole front end is new. It now runs - you know - but it still may overheat. It is a British car after all. It has AC but I haven't done anything to get it working. And Look, Real Carbs not that stinking fuel injection that they sold in CA. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of clip_image002.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of clip_image004.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of clip_image006.jpg] From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 16:18:32 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 15:18:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] TR 8 for sale In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hmm, I wonder how he got it smogged in CA with the carbs... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/7/07 2:54 PM, James Schulte at schultejim at msn.com wrote: > How's this? Sorry for the repeat > contact:Bob Bronsdon 805-558-1110 The car lives in Simi Valley, > CA. > > > For Sale > > TR 8 for saleAffordable Classic: 1980 Triumph TR8 Convertible $10,000 > >> From Keith > This one has been in California for 17 years and was in the garage for the > last 10 or so. It has 49,400 miles on it and is registered and smog checked. > It has had $4000 worth of work done on it to get it running but still needs > plenty of restoration. It has new brakes and a new radiator, fuel pump, and > lots of new pipes and hoses. The whole front end is new. It now runs - you > know - but it still may overheat. It is a British car after all. It has AC > but I haven't done anything to get it working. And Look, Real Carbs not that > stinking fuel injection that they sold in CA. > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > clip_image002.jpg] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > clip_image004.jpg] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > clip_image006.jpg] From RampantNM at aol.com Fri Sep 7 19:07:27 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 21:07:27 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2007 9:12:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, RonFineEsq at earthlink.net writes: I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. Thanks, Ron _______________________________________________ _https://www.paintscratch.com/_ (https://www.paintscratch.com/) I ordered a can of Bracken for my BGT...haven't used it yet, and it wasn't cheap, but I was just amazed they had the color on their list. Robert Houston Texan in NM ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From roger at rogerlos.com Fri Sep 7 19:14:33 2007 From: roger at rogerlos.com (Roger Los) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 18:14:33 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can In-Reply-To: <20070907204217.2AD0A1879DC@autox.team.net> References: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400> <20070907204217.2AD0A1879DC@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <01de01c7f1b5$9de4f170$6102a8c0@roomofdoom> Tower did 20 cans for me for $12 or so a can. That's half the price of paintscratch, who I have used in the past. Tower can mix from a lot of different paint codes. Anyway, they have my vote. Roger Los 3 x 63, 64 MGBs | I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount | of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. | Thanks, | Ron From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 19:12:50 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 20:12:50 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can References: Message-ID: <007701c7f1b5$60b1d430$6401a8c0@Larry> Robert, what isn't cheap? Tower Paint gets $16.95 for a rattle can of enamel. How does that compare? BTW, we miss you on the Spridget list. Are you planning on doing the 50th next year? Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:07 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can In a message dated 9/7/2007 9:12:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, RonFineEsq at earthlink.net writes: I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. Thanks, Ron _______________________________________________ _https://www.paintscratch.com/_ (https://www.paintscratch.com/) I ordered a can of Bracken for my BGT...haven't used it yet, and it wasn't cheap, but I was just amazed they had the color on their list. Robert Houston Texan in NM From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 7 19:17:29 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 20:17:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can References: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400><20070907204217.2AD0A1879DC@autox.team.net> <01de01c7f1b5$9de4f170$6102a8c0@roomofdoom> Message-ID: <008001c7f1b6$0725ad00$6401a8c0@Larry> Roger, was that a while ago or did you get that price because of quantity? I got one can two weeks ago and two more last week -- all at $16.95 per. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Los" To: Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:14 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can Tower did 20 cans for me for $12 or so a can. That's half the price of paintscratch, who I have used in the past. Tower can mix from a lot of different paint codes. Anyway, they have my vote. Roger Los 3 x 63, 64 MGBs | I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount | of paint and put it in a spray can for touch up. | Thanks, | Ron _______________________________________________ ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007 3:18 PM From mjanacek at snet.net Fri Sep 7 19:56:30 2007 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 21:56:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Steering gaiter References: Message-ID: <005601c7f1bb$7b01c380$1d44fc40@DESKTOP> According to Bentley's the gaiters "take 1/3 pint (.4 U.S. pint, .2 litre) of extreme pressure S.A.E. 90 oil". My thoughts on injecting: Don't tighten the outer gaiter band yet. Slip your injecter between the gaiter and the tierod. Injection could be done using a syringe, pump type oil can, or even a turkey baister. Tighten outer band. Mike '79B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barrie Robinson" To: ; Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 3:01 PM Subject: [Mgs] Steering gaiter > The Haynes MGB manual, in the Steering rack gaiter section, says to > "inject the correct amount and grade of oil." But nowhere does it > say what the "correct amount" is....and how does one "inject" > it?? It does say use 90 oil though. > > Regards > > Barrie Robinson > 705-721-9060 > MGB GT V8 > Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > > PURVEYOR of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges > Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs > High-tech sound deadening materials > .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs > _______________________________________________ From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Fri Sep 7 20:01:41 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 21:01:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Steering gaiter References: <005601c7f1bb$7b01c380$1d44fc40@DESKTOP> Message-ID: <00b701c7f1bc$33c172d0$6601a8c0@actualshop> Whilst good, Mike......... <> Best to jack the car up on the side you are injecting. You really do not care what the gaiter holds. But that the rach "sees" the oil! Ed From roger at rogerlos.com Fri Sep 7 20:59:27 2007 From: roger at rogerlos.com (Roger Los) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 19:59:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Paint in a spray can In-Reply-To: <008001c7f1b6$0725ad00$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <004f01c7f161$6a085080$6501a8c0@XPS400><20070907204217.2AD0A1879DC@autox.team.net> <01de01c7f1b5$9de4f170$6102a8c0@roomofdoom> <008001c7f1b6$0725ad00$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <01df01c7f1c4$4580ee30$6102a8c0@roomofdoom> Quantity. I think they give breaks at a few cans and at a bunch of cans. Paintscratch is $25 a can no matter how much you buy. And the Tower cans are 16 oz. I think the PS cans are 12 oz. Roger Los | Roger, was that a while ago or did you get that price because | of quantity? | | I got one can two weeks ago and two more last week -- all at | $16.95 per. | From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Sep 8 02:34:33 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 09:34:33 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Steering gaiter References: Message-ID: <013401c7f1f3$9a644d00$0200a8c0@Three> I'd repeat what Mike says on quantity and method which is how I've done it. However even on full lock there isn't enough space to get all the oil in in one go, so you have to put about 1/3rd in and work the rack *slowly* from side to side to distribute it, then the 2nd and 3rd thirds ditto. Some say to remove the pinion damper cover and dribble it in through there. Early racks did have a grease nipple just above the damper housing for this purpose, but it was still for injecting oil, not grease. Quantity *is* important, if you get too much in one end and compress that gaiter it will either burst it or blow it off the rack end and you will lose your oil. For that reason you should empty out any remaining oil from *both* side before injecting new. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The Haynes MGB manual, in the Steering rack gaiter section, says to > "inject the correct amount and grade of oil." But nowhere does it > say what the "correct amount" is....and how does one "inject" > it?? It does say use 90 oil though. From 1971mgb at cox.net Sat Sep 8 17:47:01 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 19:47:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's Message-ID: <006401c7f272$8d953d30$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> I recently changed my carburetors on the 71 MGB from HIF4 to the HS4, everything went well, we set the idle to where it's running smooth in neutral, however as soon as I put a load on the engine (i.e. put the car into gear, depress the clutch and stay stationary) my RPM drops to the point where the engine has difficulty to stay running, the RPM drops to 300 and I either have to pull the choke or depress the gas pedal to keep the engine from stalling. Any thought's on how to resolve this problem? From montejane at gmail.com Sat Sep 8 18:01:09 2007 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 17:01:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Steering gaiter In-Reply-To: <013401c7f1f3$9a644d00$0200a8c0@Three> References: <013401c7f1f3$9a644d00$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: I've taken off the damper cover and put the oil in there. Done it several times successfully without "blowout" on a 79B. Pretty simple, and evidently you don't have to jack up either side. Monte On 9/8/07, Paul Hunt wrote: > > I'd repeat what Mike says on quantity and method which is how I've done > it. > However even on full lock there isn't enough space to get all the oil in > in > one go, so you have to put about 1/3rd in and work the rack *slowly* from > side to side to distribute it, then the 2nd and 3rd thirds ditto. Some > say > to remove the pinion damper cover and dribble it in through there. Early > racks did have a grease nipple just above the damper housing for this > purpose, but it was still for injecting oil, not grease. > > Quantity *is* important, if you get too much in one end and compress that > gaiter it will either burst it or blow it off the rack end and you will > lose > your oil. For that reason you should empty out any remaining oil from > *both* side before injecting new. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sat Sep 8 18:19:33 2007 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 18:19:33 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's In-Reply-To: <006401c7f272$8d953d30$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B49@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Using the choke indicates to me that you have a vacuum leak. Check too that the pistons freely move up when you open the throttles. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 5:47 PM To: MG LIST Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's I recently changed my carburetors on the 71 MGB from HIF4 to the HS4, everything went well, we set the idle to where it's running smooth in neutral, however as soon as I put a load on the engine (i.e. put the car into gear, depress the clutch and stay stationary) my RPM drops to the point where the engine has difficulty to stay running, the RPM drops to 300 and I either have to pull the choke or depress the gas pedal to keep the engine from stalling. Any thought's on how to resolve this problem? _______________________________________________ dcouncill at msubillings.edu Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From mcolson40 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 8 18:52:11 2007 From: mcolson40 at hotmail.com (Milton Olson) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 20:52:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Top for 78 Midget. Message-ID: Can someone direct me to a good source for a new top for my midget. Thanks Milton. 1978 MG Midget. _________________________________________________________________ Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe. Claim your treat today! http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2 From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 9 04:19:29 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 11:19:29 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's References: <006401c7f272$8d953d30$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <00d901c7f2ca$f14b2da0$0200a8c0@Three> Pulling the choke initially increase the idle revs (fast idle) which is why either doing that or opening the throttle prevents the stall. However it probably *is* mixture that is wrong if it didn't do it with the HIFs. You *could* have a vacuum leak, but if you had set the mixture correctly this would have 'tuned it out' at idle, albeit at the expense of an overly rich mixture when running. Exactly what process did you go through to set up the carbs? It isn't difficult but does require care and patience. It consists of a number of steps, which must be done in the correct order, and completed correctly before moving on to the next. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I recently changed my carburetors on the 71 MGB from HIF4 to the HS4, From scottbonacker at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 9 08:33:31 2007 From: scottbonacker at sbcglobal.net (SCOTT BONACKER) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 07:33:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's Message-ID: <506979.38522.qm@web81707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >-----Original Message----- >From: 1971-red-mgb >Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 5:47 PM > >I recently changed my carburetors on the 71 MGB from HIF4 to >the HS4, I hope you don't mind if I ask you a question instead of answering yours. I bought a parts car to get the HIF4's and related parts off it and replace my single ZS. I already have the HS4's on another car, but thought the HIF4's would be better because of location of the float bowls and because they are a newer design. It sounds like you think the HS4's are better. What characteristics led to that decision? TIA Scott '65 and '77 B's From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 9 08:45:04 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 15:45:04 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's References: <506979.38522.qm@web81707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002501c7f2f0$8f1aa770$0200a8c0@Three> The only benefit of HIFs over HSs is they don't tend to 'bog down' if left idling for a long time like HSs can, and are slightly kinder to the environment. Everything else is a negative, the biggest being the float chambers being below the carbs so you almost always have to remove the carbs to do anything with the float and replace the O-ring seal every time. I think you would have to pull a huge amount of G to get the benefit of the jets being in the middle of the float chamber instead of to one side with the theoretical risk of starvation. The 'enrichment device' is a separate valve which can get blocked, has O-ring seals which can leak, and you can't visually tell whether it is operating or not. The poppet valves in the butterflies are a pain, although they can be soldered up easy enough or replaced (not so easy). PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I bought a parts car to get the HIF4's and related parts off it and > replace my single ZS. I already have the HS4's on another car, but thought > the > HIF4's would be better because of location of the float bowls and because > they > are a newer design. > > It sounds like you think the HS4's are better. What > characteristics led to that decision? From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sun Sep 9 10:04:37 2007 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 10:04:37 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's In-Reply-To: <002501c7f2f0$8f1aa770$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4C@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I have to agree with Paul on this. During the restoration of my 72B, I used the HS instead of HIF carbs. It was mostly because of familiarity that I did this as I have owned this set for about 25 years. However, during the limited use of the HIFs, I was quite impressed with their cold weather starting ability. That wasn't enough to overcome my preference to be able to easily remove the float bowl lid (HSs) which to me is an important and easy troubleshooting technique when I suspect fuel delivery problems. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:45 AM To: SCOTT BONACKER; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] dropping RPM's The only benefit of HIFs over HSs is they don't tend to 'bog down' if left idling for a long time like HSs can, and are slightly kinder to the environment. Everything else is a negative, the biggest being the float chambers being below the carbs so you almost always have to remove the carbs to do anything with the float and replace the O-ring seal every time. I think you would have to pull a huge amount of G to get the benefit of the jets being in the middle of the float chamber instead of to one side with the theoretical risk of starvation. The 'enrichment device' is a separate valve which can get blocked, has O-ring seals which can leak, and you can't visually tell whether it is operating or not. The poppet valves in the butterflies are a pain, although they can be soldered up easy enough or replaced (not so easy). PaulH. From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sun Sep 9 13:41:09 2007 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 13:41:09 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] oil question Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> This might be a dumb question but I am sure some of you can relate. How can you tell if a car is using synthetic oil as opposed to the real stuff? My wife wants me to change the oil in her Volvo S60. The oil on the dipstick looks a bit different (maybe a bit more brown-red) but then I am used to doing oil in old cars. But then I have to wonder how they tell the type of oil at those oil change places. Or do they even care? David Councill 67 BGT 72 B From scottbonacker at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 9 14:25:14 2007 From: scottbonacker at sbcglobal.net (SCOTT BONACKER) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 13:25:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] dropping RPM's Message-ID: <136161.90370.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > From: 1971-red-mgb [mailto:1971mgb at cox.net] > Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 10:08 AM > > for me it was ease of adjusting the carb's, on the HS4 it's > a one screw adjustment and the float bowel are easier to access. Thanks for all the good answers on the question - I hadn't gotten that from looking at the data I had. I should have asked the experts first. Scott '65 B and '77 B From frankk at intap.net Sun Sep 9 14:47:42 2007 From: frankk at intap.net (frank) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 16:47:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] oil question References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <000f01c7f322$ac57a090$df8a0fce@D3N5Y331> Easy David. What did you put in the last time you changed it? They say when you get old the second thing to go is the mind! Frank "Swamp Yankee" Krajewski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Councill, David" To: Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 3:41 PM Subject: [Mgs] oil question > This might be a dumb question but I am sure some of you can relate. How > can you tell if a car is using synthetic oil as opposed to the real > stuff? > > > > My wife wants me to change the oil in her Volvo S60. The oil on the > dipstick looks a bit different (maybe a bit more brown-red) but then I > am used to doing oil in old cars. But then I have to wonder how they > tell the type of oil at those oil change places. Or do they even care? > > > > David Councill > > 67 BGT > > 72 B From kgrowler at aol.com Sun Sep 9 15:31:08 2007 From: kgrowler at aol.com (kgrowler at aol.com) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 17:31:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Top for '78 Midget In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C9C13FDEE061F7-AA4-1A3B@Webmail-mg08.sysops.aol.com> Contact Jeff at Little British Car Co . www.lbcarco.com He has zip-out rear window tops for the Midgets. I think I still love the one I put on my '79 five years ago. But it hasn't been up all summer so I can't be sure. Seriously, it's a nice top, reasonable price and the zip-out window is a huge plus. Kim Tonry Downers Grove, Illinois, USA '79 Midget -----Original Message----- Can someone direct me to a good source for a new top for my midget. Thanks Milton. 1978 MG Midget. ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com Sun Sep 9 17:43:16 2007 From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 19:43:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] oil question In-Reply-To: <000f01c7f322$ac57a090$df8a0fce@D3N5Y331> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <000f01c7f322$ac57a090$df8a0fce@D3N5Y331> Message-ID: <76664a460709091643k57d8e0c8h53a2e5de19684d73@mail.gmail.com> If you have a warranty to comply with check the owners manual. If you don't put in your passion. You can mix synth with real oil, they are compatible. - Steve On 9/9/07, frank wrote: > Easy David. What did you put in the last time you changed it? They say when > you get old the second thing to go is the mind! > Frank "Swamp Yankee" Krajewski > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Councill, David" > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 3:41 PM > Subject: [Mgs] oil question > > > > This might be a dumb question but I am sure some of you can relate. How > > can you tell if a car is using synthetic oil as opposed to the real > > stuff? > > > > > > > > My wife wants me to change the oil in her Volvo S60. The oil on the > > dipstick looks a bit different (maybe a bit more brown-red) but then I > > am used to doing oil in old cars. But then I have to wonder how they > > tell the type of oil at those oil change places. Or do they even care? > > > > > > > > David Councill > > > > 67 BGT > > > > 72 B > _______________________________________________ > temporarilyoffline at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 9 18:01:39 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 19:01:39 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Factory hardtop rear clamp In-Reply-To: <1189335721.254.38313.m41@yahoogroups.com> References: <1189335721.254.38313.m41@yahoogroups.com> Message-ID: <93422533-B046-4E65-9B86-A2ADED4DB395@sbcglobal.net> A friend of mine is looking for the rear brackets for a MGB factory hardtop and called me wanting to see if he could borrow mine to have copies made. I never really gave it much thought but I think I have a factory hardtop because it looks like the one in the Vic Brit catalog. Anyone have a source for these brackets? Anyone willing to loan me one so Jim and I can have them made? Thanks, Mike From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Sun Sep 9 18:46:25 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 19:46:25 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Factory hardtop rear clamp References: <1189335721.254.38313.m41@yahoogroups.com> <93422533-B046-4E65-9B86-A2ADED4DB395@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <00fe01c7f344$047439c0$6601a8c0@actualshop> Mike: I am NOT on these 2 lists (mg-MGB at yahoogroups.com ; british-cars at autox.teamnet ) so if you wamt tp pass on, feel free. <> If there is anybody in the world that might be able to assist it would be "Mister HardTop", Bill Bolton. Although he is major into Big Healeys he does know other LBCs!! Write him and ask at tricarb at aol.com !! Ed From montejane at gmail.com Sun Sep 9 19:28:18 2007 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:28:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Steering gaiter In-Reply-To: References: <013401c7f1f3$9a644d00$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Hi Barrie, Yes. After jacking up the front end, I take out all the "guts" below the damper cover and just pour the oil in while moving the rack back and forth. Monte On 9/9/07, Barrie Robinson wrote: > > > Monte, > > Now that sounds simple. Is the damper cover that 2-3" round plate with > two bolts situated where the column and rack meet. Underneath there is a > sort of plug with spring and ?cam follower? Does one have to take out the > plug thingy which the Haynes Manual shows on page 209 as the ":yoke" and > then pour in the oil. > > > At 08:01 PM 9/8/2007, you wrote: > > I've taken off the damper cover and put the oil in there. Done it several > times successfully without "blowout" on a 79B. Pretty simple, and evidently > you don't have to jack up either side. > Monte > > On 9/8/07, *Paul Hunt* < paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote: > I'd repeat what Mike says on quantity and method which is how I've done > it. > However even on full lock there isn't enough space to get all the oil in > in > one go, so you have to put about 1/3rd in and work the rack *slowly* from > side to side to distribute it, then the 2nd and 3rd thirds ditto. Some > say > to remove the pinion damper cover and dribble it in through there. Early > racks did have a grease nipple just above the damper housing for this > purpose, but it was still for injecting oil, not grease. > > Quantity *is* important, if you get too much in one end and compress that > gaiter it will either burst it or blow it off the rack end and you will > lose > your oil. For that reason you should empty out any remaining oil from > *both* side before injecting new. > > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From twobees at sprynet.com Sun Sep 9 19:29:50 2007 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 21:29:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [British-cars] Factory hardtop rear clamp In-Reply-To: <93422533-B046-4E65-9B86-A2ADED4DB395@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <000601c7f34a$15256450$0f4d1645@normoffice> BINGO! Found them, plus a brand new still-in-factory-plastic until now side window for factory hardtop. See attached pix. I may also have a few of the corner braces that join the side window frames if you need. I had a factory HT on my last 2 MGBs. BTW, if it is indeed a factory HT, it will have a "W" cast into the rear center of the panel below the rear window, and a serial number written in pencil underneath the left rear interior trim piece. Norm Sippel -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces+twobees=sprynet.com at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces+twobees=sprynet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Duvall Mike Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:02 PM To: mg-MGB at yahoogroups.com; british-cars at autox.team.net; mgs Subject: [British-cars] Factory hardtop rear clamp A friend of mine is looking for the rear brackets for a MGB factory hardtop and called me wanting to see if he could borrow mine to have copies made. I never really gave it much thought but I think I have a factory hardtop because it looks like the one in the Vic Brit catalog. Anyone have a source for these brackets? Anyone willing to loan me one so Jim and I can have them made? Thanks, Mike _______________________________________________ twobees at sprynet.com British-cars mailing list British-cars at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010024.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010025.JPG] From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sun Sep 9 23:49:08 2007 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:49:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Palo Alto show Message-ID: <40b437200709092249l6bdef395v47851fabc8b12b70@mail.gmail.com> I went to the Palo Alto show today. Plenty of MGs, but I don't think I saw anything older than a TD. Nor did I see any TFs. It was nice to see at least one twin-cam MGA. The microcars were not well represented this year, nor were the DeLoreans (although this year was better than last year, when I don't think I saw a single DeLorean). On the other hand, there were plenty of Lotuses, Aston Martins and other interesting cars. Only a small number of Jensens. It was nice to see an old (1930s) Bentley. Hopefully the organizers will find a new venue for next year. Regards, Simon From g.schnittke at comcast.net Mon Sep 10 00:01:24 2007 From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 01:01:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Tachometers Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.1.20070909203831.03a96620@mail.comcast.net> I've a couple of questions for the rocket surgeons. '67 B, converted to neg ground by DPO. The tach has always read about double what the actual revs are. Tried a new voltage regulator and it fixed the problem with the other gauges, but not the tach. 1. Realizing the DPO might not have done the conversion right, what could be causing the tach to read double (or so) the actual revs. 2. I will be installing an MSD5 kit soon. I'd like to know what has to be done to the tach. I put one in the Jag and the tach swings wild but drives a lot better. Glenn Brute Force and Ignorance! - Kelvin Dodd Glenn Schnittke g.schnittke at comcast.net glenn.schnittke at vanderbilt.edu From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 10 01:49:24 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:49:24 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Tachometers References: <5.1.0.14.1.20070909203831.03a96620@mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <00a901c7f37f$8100d4e0$0200a8c0@Three> Do you have an after-market electronic ignition system or trigger in the car already? These can often cause the early current pulse tach to read high. If so, or in any case, check the pickup on the back of the tach, which should be on the outside on yours. The white trigger wire should make one complete loop of the pickup i.e. through the middle, round the side, then through the middle again. Make sure it doesn't go round twice and through three times and if so correct it. If it still does it, or if it only goes through twice and round once anyway, change it so it just goes through once and not round at all and try that. If you have points then it could be points bounce or some other problem with the ignition LT that might be difficult to find short of changing components willy-nilly. If it always did it it could be an internal electronics problem like a faulty timing resistor or capacitor. You could try diagnosing that, but you may find you have more problems when you install the new ignition system so I'd do that first and only *then* tackle the tach, as that could cure it anyway. If you still have problems then the later voltage pulse tach (used from 73 on) usually gets over problems associated with different ignition pulses, and of course would solve the problem if it is internal to the tach. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The tach has always read about double what the actual revs are. Tried a > new > voltage regulator and it fixed the problem with the other gauges, but not > the tach. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 10 01:39:39 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:39:39 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] oil question References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <00a801c7f37f$80e1db30$0200a8c0@Three> Surely the question should be "what does the handbook recommend" rather than "what did someone else put in last time"? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > How > can you tell if a car is using synthetic oil as opposed to the real > stuff? From 71mgbgt at gmail.com Mon Sep 10 08:10:01 2007 From: 71mgbgt at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:10:01 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow Message-ID: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? Henri 1971 MGB GT From frankk at intap.net Mon Sep 10 08:12:41 2007 From: frankk at intap.net (Frank) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 10:12:41 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00f401c7f3b4$a6d37fd0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU> Yup. Frank K. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henri Lefebvre" <71mgbgt at gmail.com> To: Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 10:10 AM Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow > During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started > showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. > > Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? > > Henri > 1971 MGB GT > _______________________________________________ From palte at gmx.net Mon Sep 10 08:23:13 2007 From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:23:13 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow In-Reply-To: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20070910142313.169840@gmx.net> > During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started > showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. > Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? > If the light is glowing only slightly, one of the diodes may have gone and then the rectifier pack has to be replaced. This is not really a DIY job, but then it is not that urgent. If the light stays on like it does when you have just switched on the ignition, then it is most likely that the carbon brushes are shot (BTDT). They can be replaced easily and cheaply by yourself (BPF: $5) (You need a 1/4"AF socket to remove various covers) Bert Holland 70 B -- Ist Ihr Browser Vista-kompatibel? Jetzt die neuesten Browser-Versionen downloaden: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/browser From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 10 08:26:58 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 09:26:58 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> <20070910142313.169840@gmx.net> Message-ID: <001f01c7f3b7$0f172bd0$3c8ca8c0@Garage.local> similar vein - sometimes my light goes on, generally at idle, then goes away once i rev the engine or get going. should i worry? ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:23 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow >> During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started >> showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. >> Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? >> > > If the light is glowing only slightly, one of the diodes may have gone > and then the rectifier pack has to be replaced. > This is not really a DIY job, but then it is not that urgent. > > If the light stays on like it does when you have just switched on the > ignition, then it is most likely that the carbon brushes are shot (BTDT). > > They can be replaced easily and cheaply by yourself (BPF: $5) > (You need a 1/4"AF socket to remove various covers) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 10 08:34:56 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <014d01c7f3b8$27665b60$0200a8c0@Three> Depends. It can indicate a high resistance connection between the alternator and the ignition, this should be eliminated as a cause first. Measure the voltage to a known good ground on the brown at the alternator, the brown/yellow at the alternator, and the white at the fusebox. Normally you would expect these to be within 2 or 3 tenths of a volt. The more the white departs from the brown/yellow the more the warning light will glow. If the brown and brown/yellow are the same, and higher than the white, then it is probably a bad connection in the brown circuit between the alternator and the solenoid if the battery voltage is also lower, or if those two are the same then between the solenoid and the ignition switch, the switch itself, or the white from the switch to the fusebox/ignition relay. If the brown and brown/yellow are different, and the wires are making good connection with the spades, then it is probably an alternator problem. If the voltage difference increases as you switch more electrical loads on then *usually* it indicates a diode has failed in the diode pack. Other symptoms can indicate a problem with the voltage regulator, brushes, slip-rings, windings etc. Take care with taking it somewhere to be tested, some place are rubbish and can only detect a complete failure, which probably yours hasn't (yet). One thing to watch out for if it *is* a diode, and if it has failed short-circuit, is that it will drain the battery. So as a precaution until you have resolved it unplug the alternator while parked, making sure the spades can't short to ground anywhere. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started > showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. > > Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 10 09:35:28 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 10:35:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Puzzled - Re: Factory hardtop rear clamp References: <5501DEC7-564E-47AD-B323-2704947D246D@mac.com> Message-ID: Thanks for all the replies about the hardtop brackets but I'm unclear about something. The brackets Jim is referring to are the ones shown in the Victoria British catalog that hook to the the brackets that the softtop and tonneau hook to and not the ones behind on the side just behind the seat. I think he ( and me as well) assumed they were original because you can see them in the Victoria British catalog picture. Were there brackets on the original hardtop that connect to the brackets on the rear deck as shown in the catalog? Mike > > I think he ( and me as well) assumed they were original because you > can see them in the Victoria British catalog picture. Were there > brackets on the original hardtop that connect to the brackets on > the rear deck as shown in the catalog? > > Mike From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 10 09:55:34 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:55:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com><20070910142313.169840@gmx.net> <001f01c7f3b7$0f172bd0$3c8ca8c0@Garage.local> Message-ID: <016b01c7f3c3$50fa1f10$0200a8c0@Three> Always be concerned when your car does something it doesn't usually, it is warning you. Ignore it and it will eventually fail completely, usually most inconveniently, and then *you* will be cussing the *car* instead of the other way round! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > similar vein - sometimes my light goes on, generally at idle, then goes > away > once i rev the engine or get going. should i worry? From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Sep 10 10:27:16 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 09:27:16 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [British-cars] Puzzled - Re: Factory hardtop rear clamp In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA126BB@kb1.mossmotors.com> Mike: The original hard top did have brackets that hooked onto the teardrop rear top mounting points. From memory, the brackets are fairly flat, mount at an angle to the rear deck and are held in place by two screws. The rear section has a cutout that hooks under the teardrop. Probably the confusion arises from the popular Snugtop brand hardtop which has recesses at the back of the top but did not have any form of attachment back there. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: british-cars-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:british-cars-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Duvall Mike > Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 8:35 AM > To: mg-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs; british-cars at autox.team.net > Subject: [British-cars] Puzzled - Re: Factory hardtop rear clamp > > Thanks for all the replies about the hardtop brackets but I'm unclear > about something. The brackets Jim is referring to are the ones > shown in the Victoria British catalog that hook to the the brackets > that the softtop and tonneau hook to and not the ones behind on the > side just behind the seat. > > I think he ( and me as well) assumed they were original because you > can see them in the Victoria British catalog picture. Were there > brackets on the original hardtop that connect to the brackets on the > rear deck as shown in the catalog? > > Mike > > > > > > > > I think he ( and me as well) assumed they were original because you > > can see them in the Victoria British catalog picture. Were there > > brackets on the original hardtop that connect to the brackets on > > the rear deck as shown in the catalog? > > > > Mike From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Sep 10 10:45:07 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 09:45:07 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Tachometers In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.1.20070909203831.03a96620@mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA126C6@kb1.mossmotors.com> Glenn: Sometimes the amount of current passing through the white wire loop on the back of the tachometer can be too high causing the tach to misread. I've seen this happen sometimes when electronic ignition is added. The problem happened a lot on the E-Type after adding a Crane ignition module. The suggested fix was to take the loop from around the plastic block and pass the wire once past the pickup. That worked on the Jags I dealt with, but I have not personally tried it with the MGB. It's worth a try though as the loop should have been cut and reversed during the negative ground conversion so it should be easy to take apart. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Schnittke > Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 11:01 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Tachometers > > I've a couple of questions for the rocket surgeons. > > '67 B, converted to neg ground by DPO. > > The tach has always read about double what the actual revs are. Tried a > new > voltage regulator and it fixed the problem with the other gauges, but not > the tach. > > 1. Realizing the DPO might not have done the conversion right, what could > be causing the tach to read double (or so) the actual revs. > > 2. I will be installing an MSD5 kit soon. I'd like to know what has to be > done to the tach. I put one in the Jag and the tach swings wild but drives > a lot better. > > Glenn > Brute Force and Ignorance! > - Kelvin Dodd > > Glenn Schnittke > g.schnittke at comcast.net > glenn.schnittke at vanderbilt.edu > _______________________________________________ > doddk at mossmotors.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Sep 10 12:23:44 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:23:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow In-Reply-To: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <46E58BB0.7090605@gmail.com> Henri Lefebvre wrote: > During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started > showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. > > Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? Make sure the belt is tight before you start on the alto. -The Roxter -- From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Sep 10 12:32:25 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:32:25 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> <20070910142313.169840@gmx.net> Message-ID: <003101c7f3d8$ef90fad0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> My 71 GT had the same and besides the brushes and the diode pack, the rings had to be replaced, whereto the brushes are making contact to. Bit more work - I had it done by a specialist - I needed more tools than you recommended. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 4:23 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow >> During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started >> showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. >> Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? >> > > If the light is glowing only slightly, one of the diodes may have gone > and then the rectifier pack has to be replaced. > This is not really a DIY job, but then it is not that urgent. > > If the light stays on like it does when you have just switched on the > ignition, then it is most likely that the carbon brushes are shot (BTDT). > > They can be replaced easily and cheaply by yourself (BPF: $5) > (You need a 1/4"AF socket to remove various covers) > > > Bert > Holland 70 B From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Sep 10 12:36:44 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:36:44 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com><20070910142313.169840@gmx.net> <001f01c7f3b7$0f172bd0$3c8ca8c0@Garage.local> Message-ID: <003501c7f3d9$899dc720$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Yes, looks like the diodes are becoming shot - or brushes. What comes more risky: after having this symptom first, the problem became worse and the diode pack created a leak when the engine was shut off and by this draining the battery empty. As the battery was drained to 0 V and stayed like this for a long time, the battery was damged and to be replaced. So I advise to swap the diode pack, before you get a flat battery at an unwanted moment. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 4:26 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow > similar vein - sometimes my light goes on, generally at idle, then goes > away > once i rev the engine or get going. should i worry? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:23 AM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow > > >>> During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started >>> showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. >>> Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? >>> >> >> If the light is glowing only slightly, one of the diodes may have gone >> and then the rectifier pack has to be replaced. >> This is not really a DIY job, but then it is not that urgent. >> >> If the light stays on like it does when you have just switched on the >> ignition, then it is most likely that the carbon brushes are shot (BTDT). >> >> They can be replaced easily and cheaply by yourself (BPF: $5) >> (You need a 1/4"AF socket to remove various covers) From 71mgbgt at gmail.com Mon Sep 10 16:41:17 2007 From: 71mgbgt at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:41:17 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT Message-ID: <3b8c3a8c0709101541r63c1cdcofede560db72c215@mail.gmail.com> As a follow-up to my earlier e-mail on the Ignition light in my 71 MGB GT, if I need to rebuild my Lucas alternator, should I consider converting to a Bosch alternator with higher amp rating? Any experience, recommendations with this conversion? I plan to upgrade the headlights to H4 bulbs, I already have a modern more powerful radio, and do have the optional electric rear window defogger. The extra amps may be useful, especially on a dark, rainy, cold day in Canada! From jello at ida.net Mon Sep 10 16:47:22 2007 From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:47:22 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT In-Reply-To: <3b8c3a8c0709101541r63c1cdcofede560db72c215@mail.gmail.com> References: <3b8c3a8c0709101541r63c1cdcofede560db72c215@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <1603.209.180.80.45.1189464442.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Although it is really geared to MGA's, you should read Barney Gaylord's website on upgrading electrical systems to alternators for lights, etc. See http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/electr_2.htm Chances are your wiring isn't reallyup to the H-4's, but since it is a B, it may be stout enough. As far as looking at a bosch or delco - you could go with either - but there is a 43 amp Lucas, which is plenty of power, and will require the fewest modifications. Phil Bates '58 MGA with a Lucas Alternator and incandescent sealed beam lights '67 MGB with a Lucas Alternator and halogen lights > As a follow-up to my earlier e-mail on the Ignition light in my 71 MGB > GT, if I need to rebuild my Lucas alternator, should I consider > converting to a Bosch alternator with higher amp rating? > Any experience, recommendations with this conversion? > I plan to upgrade the headlights to H4 bulbs, I already have a modern > more powerful radio, and do have the optional electric rear window > defogger. The extra amps may be useful, especially on a dark, rainy, > cold day in Canada! > _______________________________________________ > jello at ida.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From jello at ida.net Mon Sep 10 16:48:32 2007 From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:48:32 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: Re: Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT] Message-ID: <1617.209.180.80.45.1189464512.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Although it is really geared to MGA's, you should read Barney Gaylord's website on upgrading electrical systems to alternators for lights, etc. See http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/electr_2.htm Chances are your wiring isn't reallyup to the H-4's, but since it is a B, it may be stout enough. As far as looking at a bosch or delco - you could go with either - but there is a 43 amp Lucas, which is plenty of power, and will require the fewest modifications. Phil Bates '58 MGA with a Lucas Alternator and incandescent sealed beam lights '67 MGB with a Lucas Alternator and halogen lights > As a follow-up to my earlier e-mail on the Ignition light in my 71 MGB GT, if I need to rebuild my Lucas alternator, should I consider > converting to a Bosch alternator with higher amp rating? > Any experience, recommendations with this conversion? > I plan to upgrade the headlights to H4 bulbs, I already have a modern more powerful radio, and do have the optional electric rear window defogger. The extra amps may be useful, especially on a dark, rainy, cold day in Canada! From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Sep 10 16:59:49 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 18:59:49 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/2007 4:41:42 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 71mgbgt at gmail.com writes: As a follow-up to my earlier e-mail on the Ignition light in my 71 MGB GT, if I need to rebuild my Lucas alternator, should I consider converting to a Bosch alternator with higher amp rating? I did the Saturn GM alternator conversion describe in MG Experience (I think) and it's working fine. Cheaper than the Lucas and will be easier to find a replacement when needed. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Sep 11 03:46:28 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:46:28 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT References: <3b8c3a8c0709101541r63c1cdcofede560db72c215@mail.gmail.com> <1603.209.180.80.45.1189464442.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Message-ID: <012701c7f45a$84cab6a0$0200a8c0@Three> Better still look at http://www.cibolas7.net/17901.html which majors on alternator upgrades for the MGB. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Although it is really geared to MGA's ... From 1971mgb at cox.net Tue Sep 11 09:23:31 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 11:23:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Larry Gill Message-ID: <002e01c7f487$b61e2660$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> There is a picture in the recent MGB Driver magazine (NAMGBR) of Larry's beautiful green 1966 MGB, Larry mounted two Fog lights on the bumper, I would be interested to find out how he mounted the lights, I have the same lights but having the hardest time mounting them so they look level and straight, if anyone knows how to get in touch with Larry please let me know. I'm at 1971MGB at cox.net From bobmgtd at insightbb.com Tue Sep 11 10:11:53 2007 From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:11:53 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <002301c7f48e$77a67700$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> The ignition light on my '71 has been low-glowing for years. I get a solid 14 volts with the headlights and blower on, so I figure the alternator is working fine. The car has a maintenance free battery, I wonder if that has something to do with it? I've heard that maintenance free batteries need a slightly higher charging voltage. So maybe there's a slight mismatch between the voltage of the new tech batteries and the charging voltage of the old alternator, that makes the light glow. - Just a theory ;-). Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henri Lefebvre" <71mgbgt at gmail.com> To: Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 10:10 AM Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow > During the weekend the Ignition light on my 71 MGB GT has started > showing a light glow all the time, at all engine speeds. > > Is it time for an Alternator rebuild? > > Henri > 1971 MGB GT > _______________________________________________ > bobmgtd at insightbb.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Sep 11 10:41:39 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 17:41:39 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow References: <3b8c3a8c0709100710w5e2a6be0q213e5eff961d5539@mail.gmail.com> <002301c7f48e$77a67700$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <022c01c7f492$a44709b0$0200a8c0@Three> These batteries may *need* a slightly higher charging voltage, but with a standard alternator they aren't going to get it. Standard battery voltage is 12.8v, standard alternator voltage is 14.5v. But when connected together with the cars electrics the battery, alternator output and cars wiring are all at the same voltage - or at least they should be. This is the same whether the engine is switched off, or the engine is running and the alternator charging. The only difference is what voltage all three are at. The warning light glows if there is an imbalance between the brown/yellow at the alternator and the white at the ignition switch, which is incorrect, they should both be the same when the alternator is charging. If the brown/yellow is higher or lower than the brown at the alternator then the problem is more than likely inside the alternator. If they are the same but the white is low, then the problem is bad connections. You may well be getting 14v from your alternator, but what is the maximum current it can now deliver? It could be well below spec if a diode is open-circuit. This is why some places that so-called test alternators are useless as all they do is look at the output voltage and don't measure the current or drain. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The ignition light on my '71 has been low-glowing for years. I get a solid > 14 volts with the headlights and blower on, so I figure the alternator is > working fine. From david_breneman at yahoo.com Tue Sep 11 11:11:05 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:11:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Ignition light always on, low glow In-Reply-To: <002301c7f48e$77a67700$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <448252.4087.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Bob Donahue wrote: > I've heard that maintenance free batteries need a > slightly higher charging voltage. So maybe there's a slight > mismatch between > the voltage of the new tech batteries and the charging voltage of > the old > alternator, that makes the light glow. - Just a theory ;-). There may be something to that. A few years ago, when my grandmother passed away, I drove her 73 Cadillac from her winter place in Palm Springs to her home near Tacoma. Driving a car that, for the previous 20 years, had only been driven a few hundred miles a year, and most of that under 50 MPH, 1200 freeway miles up I-5, was a daunting enough task. But the alternator light glowed dimly the whole way. That car also had a low-maintenance battery in it. I'm sure if the battery was really losing charge, even slowly, I could not have made it. The old Caddy was a real trooper, however, and made the trip without incident. My grandfather would have been proud. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 11 11:23:13 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:23:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil leak References: <3b8c3a8c0709101541r63c1cdcofede560db72c215@mail.gmail.com><1603.209.180.80.45.1189464442.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> <012701c7f45a$84cab6a0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <000201c7f498$7198e3c0$6901a8c0@Garage.local> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgb/DSCN1666.JPG more for amusement purposes - the tranny is obviously leaking; it was just cleaned! From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 11 11:52:17 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:52:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil leak In-Reply-To: <000201c7f498$7198e3c0$6901a8c0@Garage.local> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA12862@kb1.mossmotors.com> Oliver: That is the automatic chassis lube device in operation. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver > Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:23 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] oil leak > > http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgb/DSCN1666.JPG > > more for amusement purposes - the tranny is obviously leaking; it was just > cleaned! From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 11 12:08:22 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 13:08:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 17 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, that is the British automatic undercarriage lubrication system. Unfortunately many Americans thought this made their garage floors and driveways dirty and bypassed it. The result was a tremendous number of cars suffered from premature undercarriage rust. On Sep 11, 2007, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. oil leak (oliver) > 2. Re: oil leak (Dodd, Kelvin) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:23:13 -0500 > From: "oliver" > Subject: [Mgs] oil leak > To: > Message-ID: <000201c7f498$7198e3c0$6901a8c0 at Garage.local> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgb/DSCN1666.JPG > > more for amusement purposes - the tranny is obviously leaking; it > was just > cleaned! > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:52:17 -0700 > From: "Dodd, Kelvin" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil leak > To: "oliver" , > Message-ID: > <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CA12862 at kb1.mossmotors.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Oliver: > > That is the automatic chassis lube device in operation. > > Kelvin Dodd > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- >> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver >> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:23 AM >> To: mgs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Mgs] oil leak >> >> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgb/DSCN1666.JPG >> >> more for amusement purposes - the tranny is obviously leaking; it was > just >> cleaned! > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs mailing list > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 17 > ********************************** From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 11 12:55:07 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 11:55:07 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Palo Alto show In-Reply-To: <40b437200709092249l6bdef395v47851fabc8b12b70@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Why would anyone care if they saw a Delorean? I regret I have missed the show the last two years because it conflicts with the California Melee: Last year I ran the MGB, but this year I took my Barracuda. Much more effective on uphill segments, but not so much on the 9% downgrades, I found. Anyway, I recommend the Melee for freewheeling fun for all California LBC owners. Trailer queens and Sunday cruisers need not apply... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/9/07 10:49 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote: > I went to the Palo Alto show today. Plenty of MGs, but I don't think I > saw anything older than a TD. Nor did I see any TFs. It was nice to > see at least one twin-cam MGA. > > The microcars were not well represented this year, nor were the > DeLoreans (although this year was better than last year, when I don't > think I saw a single DeLorean). > > On the other hand, there were plenty of Lotuses, Aston Martins and > other interesting cars. Only a small number of Jensens. It was nice to > see an old (1930s) Bentley. > > Hopefully the organizers will find a new venue for next year. > > Regards, > Simon From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Tue Sep 11 13:20:24 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:20:24 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT References: <3b8c3a8c0709101541r63c1cdcofede560db72c215@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <005e01c7f4a8$cd6b68c0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> I did also convert to H4 as well, because the original sealed beems are not allowed overhere. My advise is to have the original lights switch only switching the current of a relay only. The normal lights switch appeared to me as a week link. The relay should be fed directly from the battery with an appropiate thicker wire than normal. A safety addition can be a matching line fuse. H4 gives good light - at least my Lucas ones do. My Lucas ones have the built in side lights, which enabled me to keep the USA indicator lamps (full amber instead of half white / half amber). So my 1971 GT almost looks original, except from the removed airpump system. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henri Lefebvre" <71mgbgt at gmail.com> To: Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 12:41 AM Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT > As a follow-up to my earlier e-mail on the Ignition light in my 71 MGB > GT, if I need to rebuild my Lucas alternator, should I consider > converting to a Bosch alternator with higher amp rating? > Any experience, recommendations with this conversion? > I plan to upgrade the headlights to H4 bulbs, I already have a modern > more powerful radio, and do have the optional electric rear window > defogger. The extra amps may be useful, especially on a dark, rainy, > cold day in Canada! From Aeseeyou at aol.com Tue Sep 11 14:35:48 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 16:35:48 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Palo Alto show Message-ID: In a message dated 9/11/2007 12:10:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: Why would anyone care if they saw a Delorean? Well Max, According to the following article out of SCI-FI Tech/SCIFI.COM Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 Yes, obviously a certain element of people care enough about the Stainless Steel bodied car that: The DeLorean is making a comeback in 2008 Good news for wealthy, impractical Back to the Future fans: the DeLorean is making a comeback. With manufacturing beginning at the end of this year, the DeLorean should be for sale in the first quarter of next year for a projected price of $57,500. As cool as this is, you've gotta wonder if there's any way buying a new DeLorean could not be disappointing. After all, there's no flux capacitor, no Mr. Fusion, and no ability to fly. It's just a car from a sweet movie that's just as impractical as it was 25 years ago. But hey, you can't help loving some things, can you? We'll see if we suddenly see an influx of DeLoreans on the road come next summer. b Adam Frucci SCIFI. _http://blog.scifi.com/tech/archives/2007/08/21/the_delorean_is.html_ (http://blog.scifi.com/tech/archives/2007/08/21/the_delorean_is.html) I wouldn't mind seeing them as I feel that their place in history was stolen from them by the lame actions of the person who was most responsible for the car being built in the first place, John DeLorean. They have sadly been relegated to being the butt of dumb jokes about snow plows, etc. We still get one or two well kept DeLoreans every year at our annual British Car Show...While they were definitely underpowered, I wish a Series 2 could have been built with a more powerful engine and better suspension (the plaintive wail of British Car fans everywhere... 8^) Albert Escalante ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 14:38:12 2007 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 13:38:12 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil question In-Reply-To: <00a801c7f37f$80e1db30$0200a8c0@Three> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00a801c7f37f$80e1db30$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <40b437200709111338n3fd8ac1egfb9db70dd4080dde@mail.gmail.com> Paul, Given the recent discussion of the removal of zinc from oils, I am not sure that the handbook recommendations are valid anymore (at least for a car that is out of warranty). It seems that some manufacturers have chosen to offer oils that don't comply with the latest specs and thus will not match the handbook recommendations, nevertheless, they should be better for the engine (although perhaps not for the catalytic converter). Regards, Simon From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Sep 11 14:44:07 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 13:44:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Palo Alto show In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <673634.96946.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Gang, A few months ago I toured the NEW DeLorean factory here in Houston! They are rebuilding cars from the ground up. To keep the original VIN there are about 10 parts that must be reused. Everything else is new. I can tell you it is quite a sight to see THOUSANDS of DeLorean doors racked up in the warehouse right next to THOUSANDS of V6 engines! I must admit I was impressed but can also say that I have never been too impressed with the car, per se. In person it looks to be a somewhat poorly assembled kit-car - even the "new" ones. Used, drivable cars are going for something in the low-to-mid $20ks with "new" cars in the upper $40s to mid $50s, I believe they said. Upon my visit they did give me an original broschure. Kinda a nice thing - but I'll keep my Ferrari and MGB. rick --- Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/11/2007 12:10:45 P.M. Pacific > Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > Why would anyone care if they saw a Delorean? > Well Max, > According to the following article out of SCI-FI > Tech/SCIFI.COM Posted on > Tuesday, August 21, 2007 > Yes, obviously a certain element of people care > enough about the Stainless > Steel bodied car that: > The DeLorean is making a comeback in 2008 > Good news for wealthy, impractical Back to the > Future fans: the DeLorean is > making a comeback. With manufacturing beginning at > the end of this year, the > DeLorean should be for sale in the first quarter of > next year for a projected > price of $57,500. > As cool as this is, you've gotta wonder if there's > any way buying a new > DeLorean could not be disappointing. After all, > there's no flux capacitor, no > Mr. > Fusion, and no ability to fly. It's just a car from > a sweet movie that's > just as impractical as it was 25 years ago. But hey, > you can't help loving > some > things, can you? We'll see if we suddenly see an > influx of DeLoreans on the > road come next summer. b Adam Frucci SCIFI. > _http://blog.scifi.com/tech/archives/2007/08/21/the_delorean_is.html_ > (http://blog.scifi.com/tech/archives/2007/08/21/the_delorean_is.html) > I wouldn't mind seeing them as I feel that their > place in history was stolen > from them by the lame actions of the person who was > most responsible for the > car being built in the first place, John DeLorean. > They have sadly been > relegated to being the butt of dumb jokes about snow > plows, etc. We still get > one > or two well kept DeLoreans every year at our annual > British Car Show...While > they were definitely underpowered, I wish a Series 2 > could have been built > with a more powerful engine and better suspension > (the plaintive wail of > British Car fans everywhere... 8^) > Albert Escalante From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 15:06:03 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 14:06:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil question In-Reply-To: <40b437200709111338n3fd8ac1egfb9db70dd4080dde@mail.gmail.com> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00a801c7f37f$80e1db30$0200a8c0@Three> <40b437200709111338n3fd8ac1egfb9db70dd4080dde@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Paul, FTR I was a technical person for Volvo Cars of North America for 15 years until I retired earlier this year. While the zinc issue is a valid concern for a 40+ year old car, it is not a valid concern for current production engines. In case you were not paying attentions engines are just a tad different now then they were when my B was new. The composition of the engine is way different (aluminum vs cast iron), the metallurgy of those metals is way different, as well as the temperatures that the oil has to cope with. for what's it worth I attended a technical presentation on oils back in June. the showed the results of a 200 hour test between a SD (available in the mid 1960s when my B was new) rated oil and a SL (current) rated oil. At the end of the 200 hours they tore down the engine filled with SL oil, and there was no detectable wear. Which is as it should be. The SD engine suffered a bearing failure at about 168 hours, rendering it unable to finish the test. Bottom line is the guy that designed and built the engine knows way more about it than you do. In the case of MG all of those guys are dead or in the old folks home. In the case of Volvo they are still building the same engines, and having worked for the company I have spoken with them on this subject. The factory recommendations is what they run in their own cars. As I said before they know more about that engine than you do. when this post first came out, I responded directly to David without copying the list. Here is that reply. >>David, I can answer this one. Up until March of this year, For the last 15 years I was a technical training instructor for Volvo Cars of North America. Your wife's S60 came from the factory with a full synthetic 10W-30 oil rated ACEA A1/A5 (API SM grade) In the United States to keep the warranty in effect you need to use a 10W-30 weight oil rated with the API certification SM (maybe SL for the early S60's, I don't recall just which year the SM oils came out) In my experience any decent dino oil now a days will be SM. To get the ACEA A1/A5 spec you have to go to synthetic route. While this is not a bad idea, it is not required. DO NOT RUN ANY OIL HEAVIER 10W-30. This engine has lots of little tiny oil passages and too heavy an oil will not circulate fast enough. Damage can result. If you live in cold country check your owner's manual for cold temp oil recommendations. FWIW Volvo recommends Castrol. One last comment, the factory oil filter is superior to any aftermarket filter I have ever seen. Owing to how tightly the factory filter is folded, it has almost 2X the filter media as many popular aftermarket units. Well worth the extra couple of bucks IMHO. If you have any further questions, feel free to drop me an e mail. Rick >>Given the recent discussion of the removal of zinc from oils, I am not sure that the handbook recommendations are valid anymore (at least for a car that is out of warranty). From elco506 at austin.rr.com Tue Sep 11 15:27:18 2007 From: elco506 at austin.rr.com (Brian Lundgren) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 16:27:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil Leak Message-ID: <000301c7f4ba$885e8a20$6501a8c0@Brian> Man, that ain't no leak! Brian Lundgren From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Tue Sep 11 17:32:24 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 18:32:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil question References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><00a801c7f37f$80e1db30$0200a8c0@Three><40b437200709111338n3fd8ac1egfb9db70dd4080dde@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <013601c7f4cc$0273d5c0$6601a8c0@actualshop> <> I think we all accept that, Rick. The one question I have is Are current Volvo products flat tappet varity motors?? I suspect not. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Sep 11 17:45:54 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 16:45:54 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil question In-Reply-To: <013601c7f4cc$0273d5c0$6601a8c0@actualshop> References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00a801c7f37f$80e1db30$0200a8c0@Three> <40b437200709111338n3fd8ac1egfb9db70dd4080dde@mail.gmail.com> <013601c7f4cc$0273d5c0$6601a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: No they are not flat tappet motors. This was the source of my comment that the engines of today are not the same as the engines of yesteryear. Current production Volvo motors are a mechanical lifter motor, but not a cam in block flat tappet motor. Rick On 9/11/07, WJHS1960 wrote: > > < not a > valid concern for current production engines.>> > > I think we all accept that, Rick. The one question I have is Are current > Volvo products flat tappet varity motors?? I suspect not. > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From richard.hill at sri.com Tue Sep 11 18:39:00 2007 From: richard.hill at sri.com (Rich Hill) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 17:39:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Palo Alto show In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B7712F6-4BE6-4D1D-BC95-230D7E98E47E@sri.com> There were 2 1933 MG J2's at this year's show - I want one of those!. Also a Jaguar SS100, the previously mentioned 1930's Bentley, and a Morgan trike -- all of those are older than a TD. There was also a Jag D-type, that was cool. I'm not sure I've ever seen (nor need to see again) 6 Triumph Mayflowers in a row! (2 with American V6's, 1 battery powered). Rich Hill 1958 AH Sprite 1979 MG Midget on 9/9/07 10:49 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote: > I went to the Palo Alto show today. Plenty of MGs, but I don't think I > saw anything older than a TD. Nor did I see any TFs. It was nice to > see at least one twin-cam MGA. > > The microcars were not well represented this year, nor were the > DeLoreans (although this year was better than last year, when I don't > think I saw a single DeLorean). > > On the other hand, there were plenty of Lotuses, Aston Martins and > other interesting cars. Only a small number of Jensens. It was nice to > see an old (1930s) Bentley. > > Hopefully the organizers will find a new venue for next year. > > Regards, > Simon From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Sep 12 03:17:02 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 10:17:02 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] oil question References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12B4E@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> <00a801c7f37f$80e1db30$0200a8c0@Three> <40b437200709111338n3fd8ac1egfb9db70dd4080dde@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00cf01c7f51f$44cb3d70$0200a8c0@Three> I don't know why people have been firing these at me, as far as I can recall I haven't contributed to the discussion of zinc in oils as I know nothing about it. Maybe you are thinking of a different Paul. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Paul, > > Given the recent discussion of the removal of zinc from oils, I am not > sure that the handbook recommendations are valid anymore > Paul, > FTR I was a technical person for Volvo Cars of North America for 15 years > until I retired earlier this year. While the zinc issue is a valid > concern > for a 40+ year old car, it is not a valid concern for current production From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Sep 12 03:47:58 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 10:47:58 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator, Bosch conversion for 71 MGB GT References: <3b8c3a8c0709101541r63c1cdcofede560db72c215@mail.gmail.com> <005e01c7f4a8$cd6b68c0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Message-ID: <011c01c7f523$78658c90$0200a8c0@Three> Use one fuse per filament, you wouldn't want a short at one headlight to extinguish all your lights suddenly. Fit them as close to the relays as possible, and install them as close to where you pick up the 12v supply as possible. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > A safety addition can be a matching line fuse. From barneymg at mgaguru.com Wed Sep 12 18:47:13 2007 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 19:47:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation In-Reply-To: <000001c7eced$3ed047b0$0f4d1645@normoffice> References: <000001c7eced$3ed047b0$0f4d1645@normoffice> Message-ID: <20070913004734.1C2B7187BAF@autox.team.net> At 07:10 PM 9/1/2007 -0400, Norm wrote: >.... I found .... detailed instructions from Vicy Brit on interior >installation. It covers everything from carpet to side panels & seats. >.... I got a copy from Norm and posted it on line. See here: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/mgb/mgb_int_00.html Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com Webmaster, Chicagoland MG Club http://chicagolandmgclub.com From PRNDL at sonic.net Wed Sep 12 20:52:33 2007 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 19:52:33 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation In-Reply-To: <20070913004734.1C2B7187BAF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: > I got a copy from Norm and posted it on line Um... did you contact Victoria British and get their permission to post? It's the law, actually. Not nice to ignore copyright. (the wife is a librarian and I work in communication biz) With permission, very cool. -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Wed Sep 12 21:12:32 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 22:12:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation References: Message-ID: <011401c7f5b3$ecea7d10$6601a8c0@actualshop> <> er, WHY Rod?? The pages Norm sent me which will be going up at www.justbrits.com in in "Various Articles" in the very near future PLAINLY show as being from V/B. Their cataloges are every where!! So their pics are also "fair game" as long at attributed to them. Ed From PRNDL at sonic.net Wed Sep 12 21:50:48 2007 From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:50:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation In-Reply-To: <011401c7f5b3$ecea7d10$6601a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: > er, WHY Rod?? Oh, boy. Don't get me started... I'd refer you to a discussion of "fair use" and other aspects of the U.S. copyright law, amended 1976. There's a bunch out there. In a nutshell, a published work is the result of someone else's labor, creativity and expense, not yours. It's covered by U.S. copyright law. You can't use it without permission. It's the law. >Their cataloges are every where!! So their pics are also "fair game" as long >at attributed to them. Well, the New York Times is everywhere as well, but I think you'd find yourself at the wrong end of the argument if you put several pages of The Times on your website without their permission *if* it didn't fall under the "Fair Use" doctrine. This is kind of a bone of mine (no shit!) Lots of people's work is stolen for use on the internet and the author loses ownership of it. Again, it's the law. A really good reference is at Check out "Copyright and Fair Use Overview". Now, back to your regularly scheduled British Car programming.... -- Rod Williams Petaluma, California 1967 MGB and a copyright bug up my arse From barneymg at mgaguru.com Thu Sep 13 07:41:59 2007 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 08:41:59 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Instructions for MGB Interior Installation In-Reply-To: References: <20070913004734.1C2B7187BAF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20070913134221.E31A81879EB@autox.team.net> At 07:52 PM 9/12/2007 -0700, Rod Williams wrote: > > I got a copy from Norm and posted it on line >Um... did you contact Victoria British and get their permission to post? >It's the law, actually. Not nice to ignore copyright. .... I think I have an interresting response. Yes, it "may" be illegal without requesting permission before reproducing. And I would never infringe on a copyright if I thought it would be any problem with the originator. Put another way, I may do this when I might "presume" that the originator would give consent if I was to ask. This is one of those cases where it may be easier to appologize than to request permission. In this case, my top 10 list: 10) V.B. has been distributing this document freely to anyone who would request a copy. 9) I may be doing V.B. a favor by getting it out to more people so that V.B. doesn't have to field the requests and pay the printing and postage cost. 8.) The origin of the material is clearly noted. 7.) Each page is clearly marked with the originator's name and contact information within the scanned image (and the largest text onthe page). 6.) V.B might actually appreciate the publicity and free advertising. 5.) I would have posted this on my personal web site, except it is not MGA information. 4.) I would be happy to remove the web page immediately if V.B was to complain. 3.) If any one of our club Board members was to object to this being on the club web site I would remove it immediately. 2.) This is all not for profit and community service (if not a service for V.B.). 1.) I'm a crotchety old bastard who doesn't have much to lose if someone might want to sue me. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From yd3 at nvc.net Thu Sep 13 22:06:01 2007 From: yd3 at nvc.net (Bullwinkle) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 23:06:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Blake Urban Message-ID: <000e01c7f684$90ed5f60$aaae4440@toshibauser> I have sad news to convey to all. Blake passed away on the 8th of September. He will be missed I'm sure. Mr. Moderator, Please remove Blake from your list server. Thank you. Mark Urban From mg_garage at comcast.net Fri Sep 14 03:37:42 2007 From: mg_garage at comcast.net (Gordies Garage) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 05:37:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Blake Urban In-Reply-To: <000e01c7f684$90ed5f60$aaae4440@toshibauser> Message-ID: Indeed Mark, he will be missed. Very sorry to hear of your loss. Thanks for letting us know. To unsubscribe, you may have to go to http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs. The link is at the bottom of all list messages as well. Gordie Bird -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mg_garage=comcast.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bullwinkle Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 12:06 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Blake Urban I have sad news to convey to all. Blake passed away on the 8th of September. He will be missed I'm sure. Mr. Moderator, Please remove Blake from your list server. Thank you. Mark Urban From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Fri Sep 14 07:42:08 2007 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 09:42:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Blake Urban In-Reply-To: <000e01c7f684$90ed5f60$aaae4440@toshibauser> References: <000e01c7f684$90ed5f60$aaae4440@toshibauser> Message-ID: <46EA8FB0.8090400@tampabay.rr.com> Mark, Very sorry to hear of your loss. Yes, and his contributions will be missed by our list. Dave Houser Bullwinkle wrote: >I have sad news to convey to all. Blake passed away on the 8th of September. >He will be missed I'm sure. > >Mr. Moderator, > >Please remove Blake from your list server. Thank you. > >Mark Urban >_______________________________________________ >mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com From shaws at mlcltd.com Fri Sep 14 17:11:12 2007 From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:11:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Blake Urban In-Reply-To: <46EA8FB0.8090400@tampabay.rr.com> References: <000e01c7f684$90ed5f60$aaae4440@toshibauser> <46EA8FB0.8090400@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: Having been more of a lurker than a participant the past few years, it is time to end the silence and add my voice to those who will miss Blake greatly. Over the years, I've had the joy of several electronic conversations with Blake. He was informed and informative. He could disagree without being disagreeable, and he would listen for understanding instead of blustering for effect. He contributed to my eduction of both life and of MGs. I will miss him. God Speed, Sir! Bob Shaw On Sep 14, 2007, at 8:42 AM, dave houser wrote: > Mark, > Very sorry to hear of your loss. Yes, and his contributions will be > missed by our list. > Dave Houser > > Bullwinkle wrote: > >> I have sad news to convey to all. Blake passed away on the 8th of >> September. >> He will be missed I'm sure. >> >> Mr. Moderator, >> >> Please remove Blake from your list server. Thank you. >> >> Mark Urban >> _______________________________________________ >> mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > shaws at mlcltd.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From eric at erickson.on.net Fri Sep 14 19:39:00 2007 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 11:09:00 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Blake Urban In-Reply-To: References: <000e01c7f684$90ed5f60$aaae4440@toshibauser> <46EA8FB0.8090400@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: Have safe trip, Blake - and enjoy the ride. I am sure they have MGs in heaven. From mgs at bonacker.us Sat Sep 15 11:06:40 2007 From: mgs at bonacker.us (Scott Bonacker) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 11:06:40 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing the solenoid on a '77 Message-ID: <000001c7f7ba$c9fce3c0$1800000a@abyssinian> Last night I removed the starter from my '77, but had to leave the solenoid dangling from the wires because all of the brown wires were stacked up on the live terminal with ring connectors and I couldn't get the nut off. I'll need to cut the wires then before I can reinstall the starter with the new solenoid. One question is whether I should put new ring connectors on all of the wires, or create a junction box so that only one wire (in addition to the battery cable) goes to the live post, or use the spade connectors that I think are generally used. The ring connectors have the advantage of being more secure against vibration or snagging, but the quantity of them on the one terminal is a tight fit. Also, there was a lot of oil in the old solenoid from having dripped off of the oil filter. I suspect that the reason the rubber dust excluder was badly deteriorated and softened was the presence of oil. The other question is whether there is some sort of shield that should be present to prevent this. The shop manual reprint that I bought before starting this mentions a 'plastic cover' to be removed before unbolting the starter. A scanned shop manual of older vintage does not mention the plastic cover. None of the diagrams or pictures show one. Should there be something like that? Tip: The removal instructions say to remove the top bolt first then go underneath for the rest of it. I found it very helpful to just loosen the top bolt first, and have an assistant on the topside to remove it after I had everything else ready. The assembly is heavy to hold one-handed while removing the bottom bolt. Scott Bonacker '77 '73 '65 From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Sep 15 18:02:18 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:02:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back to work on the MG Message-ID: <487421.4204.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Gang, Got back to working on the MG today! Its been WEEKS since I could even get to the garage, let alone do good work. So here's the progress made today. BTW, a list-member has reminded me that everyone might not appreciate the large size of the pictures that I store on my website. Please know that I use this website as an off-site repository for my car pictures NOT a website for publication. If slow downloads of larger images bother you, just please ignore this post. First of all, here's the incredible mess in my garage as I disassemble my MGB's chin. http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0751.JPG At this stage I have just removed the lower spoiler, bumper, grill, horns and some of the lighting. There are lots of things bent, surface rusted and poorly repaired. http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0754.JPG and http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0753.JPG are other looks at the front end but at this stage I have straightened the bent metal and ground away the rust on the lower lip. I've also touched up some of the red paint around the headlight mounting hole. The lip where the chin spoiler mounts is now ready for primer. Here's another look at the front end opening, again ready for primer http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0752.JPG . The PO painted the engine bay black even though the car was green-then-yellow-then-red. I am about ready to prime this area and paint it red. And before anyone says anything rude, yes I have removed the commission plate and will replace it with a fresh plate stamped with the correct commission number - and the "negative earth" and emissions labels. Its the little things that make the new paint 'pop', independent of "the rules". Here's a closer look at the opened side of the lighting http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0755.JPG . The color is distorted by the flash causing the paint to appear milky and pale. The car is actually vivid red. Here's the other side, basically ready to begin disassembly (and a little paint and body work) http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0756.JPG . Regards, rick happy-to-be-back-in-the-garage lindsay '03 L-R DII '98 M-B SL500 '79 308GTB '70 MGB From montejane at gmail.com Sat Sep 15 21:42:02 2007 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:42:02 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing the solenoid on a '77 In-Reply-To: <000001c7f7ba$c9fce3c0$1800000a@abyssinian> References: <000001c7f7ba$c9fce3c0$1800000a@abyssinian> Message-ID: Hi Scott, Yes, there should be a "rubber" cover over the starter to prevent oil from dripping on it. My 79B has one still on it. It is somewhat stubborn to get it off before servicing the starter/solenoid, but I have removed it and replaced it successfully. Monte On 9/15/07, Scott Bonacker wrote: > > Last night I removed the starter from my '77, but had to leave the > solenoid > dangling from the wires because all of the brown wires were stacked up on > the live terminal with ring connectors and I couldn't get the nut off. > I'll > need to cut the wires then before I can reinstall the starter with the new > solenoid. > > One question is whether I should put new ring connectors on all of the > wires, or create a junction box so that only one wire (in addition to the > battery cable) goes to the live post, or use the spade connectors that I > think are generally used. The ring connectors have the advantage of being > more secure against vibration or snagging, but the quantity of them on the > one terminal is a tight fit. > > Also, there was a lot of oil in the old solenoid from having dripped off > of > the oil filter. I suspect that the reason the rubber dust excluder was > badly > deteriorated and softened was the presence of oil. > > The other question is whether there is some sort of shield that should be > present to prevent this. The shop manual reprint that I bought before > starting this mentions a 'plastic cover' to be removed before unbolting > the > starter. A scanned shop manual of older vintage does not mention the > plastic > cover. None of the diagrams or pictures show one. Should there be > something > like that? > > Tip: The removal instructions say to remove the top bolt first then go > underneath for the rest of it. I found it very helpful to just loosen the > top bolt first, and have an assistant on the topside to remove it after I > had everything else ready. The assembly is heavy to hold one-handed while > removing the bottom bolt. > > > Scott Bonacker > '77 '73 '65 > _______________________________________________ > montejane at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 16 03:56:13 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 10:56:13 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing the solenoid on a '77 References: <000001c7f7ba$c9fce3c0$1800000a@abyssinian> Message-ID: <00bf01c7f849$d2a861e0$0200a8c0@Three> The number of ring connectors on the solenoid stud shouldn't be an issue, if the nut is going to jam it will do so with only the battery cable on it, or the battery cable plus the three (usually) brown wires. I'm surprised it *has* jammed, it is a copper (or coppered) stud, maybe it was a ham-fisted PO. I appreciate it is easier to chop through the wires but if you are going to replace the solenoid anyway then it would be better to cut/grind the nut and stud off and leave the wires as they are, rather than risk problems with short wires and/or iffy connectors with the reterminations. Making up a junction box would solve any length problems, but you would have to be sure it wasn't going to short out on any metalwork in the vicinity, and adding connections in the brown circuit is rarely a good idea. The dust cover fits over the hole in the back-plate, nothing to do with shielding the solenoid. If the solenoid is full of oil from the filter then it is the filter that is the problem, not the solenoid or lack of shield. I quite agree with loosening the top bolt *almost* to the point of removal before removing the bottom, then removing the top. However this does need two of you - one to support and remove the starter from underneath while the other removes the top bolt. Single-handedly I think you have no choice but to do it the other way round, unless you can support the starter from underneath while you are working above. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Last night I removed the starter from my '77, but had to leave the > solenoid > dangling from the wires because all of the brown wires were stacked up on > the live terminal with ring connectors and I couldn't get the nut off. From mgs at bonacker.us Sun Sep 16 05:59:59 2007 From: mgs at bonacker.us (Scott Bonacker) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 05:59:59 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Replacing the solenoid on a '77 In-Reply-To: <00bf01c7f849$d2a861e0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <000001c7f7ba$c9fce3c0$1800000a@abyssinian> <00bf01c7f849$d2a861e0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <004801c7f859$1e6c2490$70eba6a6@abyssinian> >-----Original Message----- > I'm surprised it >*has* jammed, it is a copper (or coppered) stud, maybe it was >a ham-fisted PO. I appreciate it is easier to chop through >the wires but if you are going to replace the solenoid anyway >then it would be better to cut/grind the nut and stud off and >leave the wires as they are, rather than risk problems with >short wires and/or iffy connectors with the reterminations. Last night I ended up cutting the wires just behind the terminators and installing new ones. There were one thick brown wire that I put a ring connector on, and two thinner brown wires that I joined in a single ring connector, and the other two brown wires were fitted with spade connectors and I added a spade plate to the terminal to receive them. The odd thing about the old bolt, and the reason why I couldn't turn the nut off, was that it was about halfway down the threaded post and would turn almost freely but not back off. I even gripped it with vise-grip pliers and pulled strongly as I turned it to no effect. The threads were apparently munged in a way that removed material from the post and filled in the internal threading on the nut. The good news is that it starts now! On the other hand, the next time there is a electrical deficiency the first place I'll check is the new terminators I installed. Thanks for the advice, Scott '77 '73 '65 From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 16 07:27:03 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 14:27:03 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] You have to laugh Message-ID: <003301c7f865$d8009290$0200a8c0@Three> Yes, well I know I still have a juvenile sense of humour despite my years but I laughed out loud today when reading about Top Gear's entry in an endurance event. Their car was a BMW330d bought from the back of a used car magazine, sponsored by Peniston Oils and Larsen Biscuits. "What's funny about that?", you may well ask. On one side the 'ton' of Peniston and on the other the 'L' and 'n' of Larsen vanished when they opened the doors. The irony is, they are genuine companies. PaulH. From rocknatural at gmail.com Sun Sep 16 11:23:55 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 12:23:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] You have to laugh In-Reply-To: <003301c7f865$d8009290$0200a8c0@Three> References: <003301c7f865$d8009290$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <46ED66AB.3040306@gmail.com> Paul Hunt wrote: > Yes, well I know I still have a juvenile sense of humour despite my years > but I laughed out loud today when reading about Top Gear's entry in an > endurance event. Their car was a BMW330d bought from the back of a used car > magazine, sponsored by Peniston Oils and Larsen Biscuits. "What's funny > about that?", you may well ask. On one side the 'ton' of Peniston and on > the other the 'L' and 'n' of Larsen vanished when they opened the doors. > The irony is, they are genuine companies. > http://www.tyresmoke.net/albums/albup64/Britcar_24hr_Silverstone_2007_315.jpg -The Roxter -- From johnvoelcker at yahoo.com Sun Sep 16 19:59:26 2007 From: johnvoelcker at yahoo.com (John Voelcker) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 18:59:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGB parts - Albany NY / Hudson Valley area Message-ID: <517945.49917.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Looking for MGB owners who might be able to use the following parts, removed from my Riley One-Point-Five last year after some transplant surgery to correct badly engineered mods by the DPO: - four silver-painted wire wheels (no tires) - splined rear axle - MGB transmission, non-synchro first, works well They're located in Woodstock NY, and I really want them to go to an MGB person--but kinda need to get them out of my garage. Contact me off-list, and thanks to the group for your indulgence. John 1958 Riley One-Point-Five 1961 Morris Minor 1000 Traveller 2000 Subaru Outback wagon From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Sep 17 07:13:16 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 06:13:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] You have to laugh In-Reply-To: <003301c7f865$d8009290$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <260063.25628.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Paul Hunt wrote: Yes, well I know I still have a juvenile sense of humour despite my years but I laughed out loud today when reading about Top Gear's entry in an endurance event. Their car was a BMW330d bought from the back of a used car magazine, sponsored by Peniston Oils and Larsen Biscuits. "What's funny about that?", you may well ask. On one side the 'ton' of Peniston and on the other the 'L' and 'n' of Larsen vanished when they opened the doors. The irony is, they are genuine companies. ---------------------- Now Paul, you don't think that was a coincidence, do you?! Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Sep 17 09:47:14 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 11:47:14 EDT Subject: [Mgs] 70 BGT for sale Message-ID: I saw a nice red 70 BGT in High Rolls, NM this past weekend. Fresh engine and carb rebuild, nice paint and black interior. They were asking $6700. I'll be back that way in two weeks if anyone is interested. It came with a matching red 63 Flacon Ranchero for $4300 more. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 17 18:38:52 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 19:38:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] PPP Tech Session 9-22-07 Message-ID: <065401c7f98c$4a9a6ac0$6401a8c0@Larry> An open invitation to all the WI or nearby listers who care to come: This Saturday, Sept. 22, our local Brit car club, Fox Cities British Car Club, will be having an open house and dual tech session. We start at 10:30 AM with a session on the new oil formulas followed by a session by Peter Caldwell on lever action shocks. After the tech sessions the club will provide lunch and a tour of the clubhouse. The clubhouse is 14,000 square feet including a 7 stall service area, cold and temp-controlled car storage, a meeting room, a vending room, a kitchen, a library and a British Pub. Come for the tech sessions, come for the lunch, come for the tour or come for the brews in the pub. The address is 3531 Sand Pit Road, Oshkosh, WI. Hope to see some new faces. Any questions, contact me: Larry Daniels LADANIELS at SBCGLOBAL.NET From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Sep 17 19:02:50 2007 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 18:02:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] PPP Tech Session 9-22-07 In-Reply-To: <065401c7f98c$4a9a6ac0$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <065401c7f98c$4a9a6ac0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <40b437200709171802n7d40a3ao89e46881f0075623@mail.gmail.com> Larry, Given all the discussions on oils recently, could one of the attendees be persuaded to write up a summary of the discussion about new oil formulas? Regards, Simon On 9/17/07, Larry Daniels wrote: > An open invitation to all the WI or nearby listers who care to come: > > This Saturday, Sept. 22, our local Brit car club, Fox Cities British Car Club, > will be having an open house and dual tech session. We start at 10:30 AM with > a session on the new oil formulas followed by a session by Peter Caldwell on > lever action shocks. From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 17 19:13:35 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:13:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] PPP Tech Session 9-22-07 References: <065401c7f98c$4a9a6ac0$6401a8c0@Larry> <40b437200709171802n7d40a3ao89e46881f0075623@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <067d01c7f991$23ed0ae0$6401a8c0@Larry> I will be there and will see if there is anything new, but the article that Brian Boss referred to a while back, http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html, I would say pretty much covered the subject. If there is any new, ground-breaking news, I will certainly pass it on. To be honest, I expect to get more from Peter Caldwell's session on lever action shocks. Larry Daniels ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Matthews" To: "Larry Daniels" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:02 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] PPP Tech Session 9-22-07 Larry, Given all the discussions on oils recently, could one of the attendees be persuaded to write up a summary of the discussion about new oil formulas? Regards, Simon On 9/17/07, Larry Daniels wrote: > An open invitation to all the WI or nearby listers who care to come: > > This Saturday, Sept. 22, our local Brit car club, Fox Cities British Car > Club, > will be having an open house and dual tech session. We start at 10:30 AM > with > a session on the new oil formulas followed by a session by Peter Caldwell > on > lever action shocks. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1012 - Release Date: 9/16/2007 6:32 PM From mvrose at charter.net Mon Sep 17 19:39:00 2007 From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 18:39:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB Trunk Lid/Air conditioner For Sale Message-ID: <001301c7f994$b0503130$aa43ba44@Primary> I have an extra truck lid that I did not use when I rebuilt my 1980 MGB. The lid is from an MGB (spent its life in the high desert of Washington state) and is in very good shape. I also have an air conditioner (compressor, evaporator, underdash control unit) that I removed from my 1980 MGB that was installed at the dealership. I am sure it needs a complete rebuilt. I will sell the trunk lid for I paid for it ($70.00) plus shipping. Don't have a clue what the AC is worth. For further information e-mail me at MVROSE at CHARTER.NET Thanks Merl Rosenthal 1980 MGB From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Tue Sep 18 10:56:10 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:56:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back to work on the MG In-Reply-To: <487421.4204.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <509070.98696.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> It's fun in the garage, isn't it?! Unfortunately, right now mine is filled with detritus left over from my son's Eagle Scout project, so we need to finish that up and get the crap cleaned out before I can approach my engine.... Looks like you only rebuilt one side of the front suspension....? You going to do the other side as well? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From jmc987 at verizon.net Tue Sep 18 12:05:39 2007 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (joseph cianciotti) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:05:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper Message-ID: Wondering if I pushing it back in would get it "un-stuck" or do I have to have it rebuilt? Thanks in advance for your always sage advice. Joseph 67 MGB Roadster From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 18 12:20:49 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:20:49 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Probably not. Stuckness would indicate the seal is bad, or corrosion in the bore, either of which would require rebuilding. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/18/07 11:05 AM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: > Wondering if I pushing it back in would get it "un-stuck" or do I > have to have it rebuilt? Thanks in advance for your always sage advice. > > Joseph > 67 MGB Roadster From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Sep 18 12:47:40 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:47:40 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper Message-ID: <20070918184803.DE39E187A4C@autox.team.net> Yep. Thats why i rebuilt mine. -----Original Message----- From: "Max Heim" To: "MG List" Sent: 9/18/2007 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper Probably not. Stuckness would indicate the seal is bad, or corrosion in the bore, either of which would require rebuilding. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/18/07 11:05 AM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: > Wondering if I pushing it back in would get it "un-stuck" or do I > have to have it rebuilt? Thanks in advance for your always sage advice. > > Joseph > 67 MGB Roadster _______________________________________________ rolindsay at yahoo.com Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From rowdon at sonoma-county.org Tue Sep 18 15:37:29 2007 From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:37:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] declining dollar Message-ID: Fellow MG hobbyists, What will be the effect of the tanking of the US$ on our hobby for those of us in the US? Prime rate was just lowered again resulting in the dollar falling from previous lows. I would guess as the cars here in the US become more of a bargain to foreigners, more of them will be leaving our shores. So our cars are appreciating in value! Oh boy. Sports Car Market price guide showed MGAs going up 35% just last year here (in US$). In addition, as parts manufactured abroad become more costly for us here in the US, our hobby may become less appealing for Americans. Hell, over the last 15 or so years, probably half of the Brit cars I've sold were bought by Europeans and shipped home. I think we as Americans may see more and more of our treasures plucked away by foreigners. At least we were able to buy cheap shirts from Taiwan and bargain plumbing fixtures from China for several years while our industrial base was dismantled. Anybody have any comments on this subject? Don Scott '62 MGA From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Sep 18 18:16:58 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:16:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Back to work on the MG In-Reply-To: <509070.98696.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <498079.25924.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Dan, et al., Finished the panel beating on the front valence tonight and got a coat of matte black on the back side. Once that's cured I'll surface the front side, apply a pebble-coating and get a coat of primer on it. At that point I can set it aside to cure while I work on the rest of the front body. Sorry, no pictures of this yet. Perhaps tomorrow evening... Dan DiBiase wrote: > It's fun in the garage, isn't it?! Its therapy for me. I have three projects going right now: (1) I need to replace the brakes (rotors, pads and sensors) on all four corners of my Mercedes SL500 daily driver. Because its my daily, I have to do this all in one setting - over a weekend. (2) I need to finish the interior restoration of the 308GTB. Everything is done but the doors. The driver's door is 90% done, needing only reassembly, while the other door has seen zero progress. (3) The MGB resurrection continues to occupy my spare time. > Unfortunately, right now mine is filled with > detritus left over from my son's Eagle Scout > project, so we need to finish that up and get the > crap cleaned out before I can approach my engine.... Story of my life. > Looks like you only rebuilt one side of the front > suspension....? You going to do the other side as > well? Yes. I have the right-front axle disassembled but not the suspension - yet. Its just a matter of nor having gotten to it yet. > Dan D > Central NJ USA Thanks Dan. > '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that > smoke? Is this a driver or a daily driver? I suspect that the Audi is the daily driver. > '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... :-) > '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! > NAMGBR #5-2328 Heck yea! I just love my M-B SL500, albeit two-wheel-drive but it is the REAR two-wheels, as Rudy intended! > http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ I guess I should set up a blog some day. Right now I just own a domain with a bunch of rented disk space filled with pictures. I just use that space as an off-site storage location for pictures - and a place to share. http://www.aubard.us/MGB http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari http://www.aubard.us/SL500 http://www.aubard.us/F1 Regards, rick lots-o-cars From hdr at pobox.com Tue Sep 18 19:53:24 2007 From: hdr at pobox.com (Henry D. Reynolds) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:53:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Tachometers In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.1.20070909203831.03a96620@mail.comcast.net> References: <5.1.0.14.1.20070909203831.03a96620@mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <46F08114.1090405@pobox.com> I had an MSD 6a on my 73. I spend some time with MSD tech to try to get my tach to work correctly. In the end, It was easier to replace my tach with a VDO model tach that would work when plugged into the tach output of the MSD. don't attempt to pull plug wires from a running engine with one of the babies installed. The spark kicks like a mule! (don't ask) Glenn Schnittke wrote: > I've a couple of questions for the rocket surgeons. > > '67 B, converted to neg ground by DPO. > > The tach has always read about double what the actual revs are. > Tried a new voltage regulator and it fixed the problem with the > other gauges, but not the tach. > > 1. Realizing the DPO might not have done the conversion right, what > could be causing the tach to read double (or so) the actual revs. > > 2. I will be installing an MSD5 kit soon. I'd like to know what has > to be done to the tach. I put one in the Jag and the tach swings > wild but drives a lot better. > > Glenn Brute Force and Ignorance! - Kelvin Dodd > > Glenn Schnittke g.schnittke at comcast.net > glenn.schnittke at vanderbilt.edu -- Alle Menschen werden Br|der. Henry D. Reynolds - Halsoft Chat Ops mail: hdr at halsoft.com - phone: 512.448.3617 - cell: 512.699.8658 PGP Key 407DCDE1 Fpr: 3F 5A FD F6 E5 40 55 9C 7F 0F 81 F5 0A E6 3B 7F -- Alle Menschen werden Br|der. Henry D. Reynolds - System Administrator mail: hdr at pobox.com - phone: 512.448.3617 - cell: 512.699.8658 PGP Key 407DCDE1 Fpr: 3F 5A FD F6 E5 40 55 9C 7F 0F 81 F5 0A E6 3B 7F From mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU Wed Sep 19 12:14:48 2007 From: mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU (Mark A. O'Neil) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 14:14:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:05:39 -0400 > From: joseph cianciotti > Subject: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed > > Wondering if I pushing it back in would get it "un-stuck" or do I > have to have it rebuilt? Thanks in advance for your always sage > advice. > > Joseph > 67 MGB Roadster Hi Joseph, My recent experience was that the caliper was fine, but that the hose was bad - brake locked up fine, but stayed that way since the hose would not allow bleed back to the master. Not saying a rebuild isn't a good idea in your case, just that in my case a bit of caliper grease and a new hose solved the problem. -m From jmc987 at verizon.net Wed Sep 19 12:21:57 2007 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (joseph cianciotti) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 14:21:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> Okay, so I have to rebuild it or have it rebuilt. How complicated a job is it to do yourself? Is there a place where I can get step-by- step directions? And what about parts? Other than changing the pads, I've never done anything like this. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Joseph 67 MGB Roadster On Sep 19, 2007, at 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:20:49 -0700 > From: Max Heim > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper > To: MG List > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > Probably not. Stuckness would indicate the seal is bad, or > corrosion in the > bore, either of which would require rebuilding. > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 9/18/07 11:05 AM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: > >> Wondering if I pushing it back in would get it "un-stuck" or do I >> have to have it rebuilt? Thanks in advance for your always sage >> advice. >> >> Joseph >> 67 MGB Roadster From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 19 12:27:34 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:27:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Reflector Message-ID: <017c01c7faea$c050cac0$6401a8c0@Larry> Guys, My 1967 Austin A60 Pickup has a broken reflector lens in the back. The lens is 1.5 inches in diameter and is mounted in a rubber base with a chome ring surrounding it. As it sits on a curved surface, the base has a 1/2 inch bevel to it in order to end up with the lens angled correctly. Does anybody know of any British cars that use a similar reflector with the bevelled rubber base? The correct lens with a flat base is easy to find, but the bevelled base has proved to be more difficult. Since they come as a unit with the base, lens and chrome ring and one of the rubber bases is getting a little ragged, I may as well get the correct bevelled base with the lens, if possible. I don't find it on any of the MG or AH models. I thought maybe one of the Morris models might have a similar unit? If so, do you know where I might find one? Thanks in advance, Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 19 12:42:40 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:42:40 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper In-Reply-To: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> Message-ID: I was assuming that you had determined the piston was stuck by observation, after removing the pads for inspection. Mark suggested an alternative which I had not considered -- that you were talking about "operational" stuckness (the brakes continuing to drag after releasing the pedal), which would be a different story. But I will continue to assume the former condition. I believe the Bentley manual goes into the process. Essentially, the first step is to ascertain the condition of the bores, by removing the pistons (without inflicting further damage -- this can be tricky). It is highly probable that the bores will show pitting or corrosion -- at this point I would just just exchange them for rebuilt units. There is really no point in going any further unless you particularly enjoy this sort of thing as a recreation. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/19/07 11:21 AM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: > Okay, so I have to rebuild it or have it rebuilt. How complicated a > job is it to do yourself? Is there a place where I can get step-by- > step directions? And what about parts? Other than changing the pads, > I've never done anything like this. Thanks for pointing me in the > right direction. > > Joseph > 67 MGB Roadster > > > On Sep 19, 2007, at 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:20:49 -0700 >> From: Max Heim >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper >> To: MG List >> Message-ID: >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" >> >> Probably not. Stuckness would indicate the seal is bad, or >> corrosion in the >> bore, either of which would require rebuilding. >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> on 9/18/07 11:05 AM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: >> >>> Wondering if I pushing it back in would get it "un-stuck" or do I >>> have to have it rebuilt? Thanks in advance for your always sage >>> advice. >>> >>> Joseph >>> 67 MGB Roadster From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 19 13:21:38 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 14:21:38 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [morris_motors] Reflector References: <017c01c7faea$c050cac0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <020801c7faf2$4dedd3d0$6401a8c0@Larry> I've had a few requests for pictures of the reflector. Here they are: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladaniels/ ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Daniels To: Morris Yahoo Group Cc: Spridgets List ; midgetsprite at yahoogroups.com ; MG List ; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com ; bugeye at yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 1:27 PM Subject: [morris_motors] Reflector Guys, My 1967 Austin A60 Pickup has a broken reflector lens in the back. The lens is 1.5 inches in diameter and is mounted in a rubber base with a chome ring surrounding it. As it sits on a curved surface, the base has a 1/2 inch bevel to it in order to end up with the lens angled correctly. Does anybody know of any British cars that use a similar reflector with the bevelled rubber base? The correct lens with a flat base is easy to find, but the bevelled base has proved to be more difficult. Since they come as a unit with the base, lens and chrome ring and one of the rubber bases is getting a little ragged, I may as well get the correct bevelled base with the lens, if possible. I don't find it on any of the MG or AH models. I thought maybe one of the Morris models might have a similar unit? If so, do you know where I might find one? Thanks in advance, Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." __._,_.___ Messages in this topic (1) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Polls | Calendar Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe Recent Activity a.. 3New Members Visit Your Group Health Zone Look your best! Groups to help you look & feel great. Moderator Central An online resource for moderators of Yahoo! Groups. Green Groups on Yahoo! Groups share your passion for the planet. . From rocknatural at gmail.com Wed Sep 19 14:02:14 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 15:02:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper In-Reply-To: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> References: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> Message-ID: <46F18046.90200@gmail.com> joseph cianciotti wrote: > Okay, so I have to rebuild it or have it rebuilt. How complicated a > job is it to do yourself? Is there a place where I can get step-by- > step directions? And what about parts? Other than changing the pads, > I've never done anything like this. Thanks for pointing me in the > right direction. For whatever it's worth, I highly recommend having it done by a shop with a very good reputation for this work. My experience has led me to that conclusion, as well as various horror stories from friends and associates. -The Roxter -- From frankk at intap.net Wed Sep 19 14:27:21 2007 From: frankk at intap.net (frank) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:27:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [morris_motors] Reflector References: <017c01c7faea$c050cac0$6401a8c0@Larry> <020801c7faf2$4dedd3d0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <001001c7fafb$7e30c850$968a0fce@D3N5Y331> Larry: It looks vaguely familiar like Bugeye Sprite or MGA, of which I have several and will go check when I log off. I am certain that someone on here will correct me and identify the reflector correctly now that you have posted the photos. Frank Krajewski ----- From wbmcleod at cox.net Wed Sep 19 14:32:47 2007 From: wbmcleod at cox.net (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:32:47 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] [British-cars] TR6 hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <46F1876F.1000008@cox.net> Those sure look like TR250 wheel covers in the lower left photo. TR6UO at aol.com wrote: > Found a French Blue TR6 hardtop, among other things, available in Turlock, > CA (I'm already covered). The guy wants to sell the whole list of parts as a > package for $6500, but is flexible and will consider parting out stuff later. > I'll be happy to check out the top, et al. if anyone strikes a deal with him. > > Steve > > > _http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/car/424022742.html_ > (http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/car/424022742.html) From twobees at sprynet.com Wed Sep 19 14:42:11 2007 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:42:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [British-cars] TR6 hardtop In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <005601c7fafd$8e2381b0$0f4d1645@normoffice> And, I'm sure that is an MGB top in the background. If you go back to check the TR top, look at the MGB top to see if there is a "W" cast into the center of the panel beneath the back window. If there is, it's a factory top. Frankly, you could probably recoup half of the cost just on those 2 tops. Norm -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces+twobees=sprynet.com at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces+twobees=sprynet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR6UO at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 4:01 PM To: 6pack-digest at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: [British-cars] TR6 hardtop Found a French Blue TR6 hardtop, among other things, available in Turlock, CA (I'm already covered). The guy wants to sell the whole list of parts as a package for $6500, but is flexible and will consider parting out stuff later. I'll be happy to check out the top, et al. if anyone strikes a deal with him. Steve _http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/car/424022742.html_ (http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/car/424022742.html) ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com _______________________________________________ twobees at sprynet.com British-cars mailing list British-cars at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/british-cars From montejane at gmail.com Wed Sep 19 17:22:26 2007 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:22:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper In-Reply-To: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> References: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> Message-ID: Joseph, I've rebuilt the calipers on my 79B; I should say I've installed new pistons and seals. I did NOT break the caliper apart as I read that this was something an amateur like myself should not undertake. To remove the pistons, just a SMALL amount of air pressure through the bleed valve (a bicycle pump would work) will force it out as long as the seal is still good and the piston is not wedged in at an angle. If I remember correctly the seals (and it seems there were metal rings of some kind) were the hardest part to remove/install without some special tool. I did get it done with just shop tools but I don't remember just how. They now work fine and do not leak. Monte On 9/19/07, joseph cianciotti wrote: > > Okay, so I have to rebuild it or have it rebuilt. How complicated a > job is it to do yourself? Is there a place where I can get step-by- > step directions? And what about parts? Other than changing the pads, > I've never done anything like this. Thanks for pointing me in the > right direction. > > Joseph > 67 MGB Roadster > > > On Sep 19, 2007, at 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:20:49 -0700 > > From: Max Heim > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper > > To: MG List > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > > > Probably not. Stuckness would indicate the seal is bad, or > > corrosion in the > > bore, either of which would require rebuilding. > > > > -- > > > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > > > on 9/18/07 11:05 AM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: > > > >> Wondering if I pushing it back in would get it "un-stuck" or do I > >> have to have it rebuilt? Thanks in advance for your always sage > >> advice. > >> > >> Joseph > >> 67 MGB Roadster > _______________________________________________ > montejane at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Wed Sep 19 21:14:31 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 22:14:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper References: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> <46F18046.90200@gmail.com> Message-ID: <007101c7fb34$5d2cb270$6601a8c0@actualshop> Roxter: I most heartly agree!!! For whatever it's worth, I highly recommend having it done by a shop with a very good reputation for this work. My experience has led me to that conclusion, as well as various horror stories from friends and associates. And to that end I have written Joe TWICE advising that I DO have re-manfactured calipers IN stock. Guess he want to "play" with SAFETY items and just "take a chance". BTDT and LEARNED my lesson, ONCE!! I just do NOT like to drive a car that does NOT STOP. Something a bit "hairy" about the "sitution"!!! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Sep 20 02:09:46 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 09:09:46 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Stuck disk brake caliper References: Message-ID: <00f901c7fb5e$4b9e6d80$0200a8c0@Three> This can be confirmed by opening the bleed nipple that side. If you get a spurt of fluid, and more importantly if with it open you can then push the pistons back in, it *is* a blocked hose or pipe. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > My recent experience was that the caliper was fine, but that the hose > was bad - brake locked up fine, but stayed that way since the hose > would not allow bleed back to the master. From jmc987 at verizon.net Thu Sep 20 04:49:12 2007 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (joseph cianciotti) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 06:49:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: WJHS1960, I have no intention of playing with safety items or "taking the chance" as you write I was merely inquiring. I also know that you have re-mans in stock -- among other things. This isn't the first time you mentioned that you sell parts in reply to a query. However, when your reply is also an offer to make a sale it's hard to discern whether you're offering advice for my benefit or yours. And if it makes you feel any better, I will replace the entire unit. Just not with one of yours. Joseph 67 MGB Roadster On Sep 19, 2007, at 11:14 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Message: 11 > Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 22:14:31 -0500 > From: "WJHS1960" > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper > To: > Message-ID: <007101c7fb34$5d2cb270$6601a8c0 at actualshop> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Roxter: > > I most heartly agree!!! > > For whatever it's worth, I highly recommend having it done > by a shop > with a very good reputation for this work. My experience has led me > to that > conclusion, as well as various horror stories from friends and > associates. > > > And to that end I have written Joe TWICE advising that I DO have > re-manfactured > calipers IN stock. > > Guess he want to "play" with SAFETY items and just "take a chance". > > BTDT and LEARNED my lesson, ONCE!! I just do NOT like to drive a > car that > does NOT STOP. Something a bit "hairy" about the "sitution"!!! From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Sep 20 12:10:01 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:10:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors Message-ID: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> does anyone have a good/bad, indifferent opinion about the cross drilled brake rotors, anyone use them and would like to share their experience with me, I'm thinking of getting a pair for my 71 MGB but don't need them for just the wow factor, I would like them to actually make a braking different. thanks in advance From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Sep 20 12:12:05 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:12:05 EDT Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors Message-ID: In a message dated 9/20/2007 11:07:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 1971mgb at cox.net writes: does anyone have a good/bad, indifferent opinion about the cross drilled brake rotors, anyone use them and would like to share their experience with me, I'm thinking of getting a pair for my 71 MGB but don't need them for just the wow factor, I would like them to actually make a braking different. ____________________________________ They make zero difference except for 'wow' on the street. Don't bother with them. In fact they make only slight difference on the track. Bill From grunt333 at verizon.net Thu Sep 20 12:21:24 2007 From: grunt333 at verizon.net (CARL ELLIOT) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:21:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] XJ-6 and XJS Parts Message-ID: <406785.32264.qm@web84310.mail.re1.yahoo.com> I have sold my Jaguars due to health I have many new and used parts if you need something just drop me a line very cheap. grunt333 at verizon.net From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 20 12:20:17 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:20:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: Not knowing your driving habits, I would just ask if your rotors currently need replacing. If so, I would say it may be worth considering. Otherwise, it scarcely seems justified. New, sticky tires would have more of an effect on your braking, in most situations. Having said that, I have recently driven roads on which every increment of additional heat dissipation was greatly appreciated. Again, it depends on your situation -- if I lived in Honeydew or Shelter Cove (see Northern California, Lost Coast), I'd be looking for carbon fiber discs... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/20/07 11:10 AM, 1971-red-mgb at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote: > does anyone have a good/bad, indifferent opinion about the cross drilled brake > rotors, anyone use them and would like to share their experience with me, I'm > thinking of getting a pair for my 71 MGB but don't need them for just the wow > factor, I would like them to actually make a braking different. > thanks in advance From peter at nosimport.com Thu Sep 20 12:51:05 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 13:51:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070920134719.03471ca8@nosimport.com> At 01:12 PM 9/20/2007, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 9/20/2007 11:07:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >1971mgb at cox.net writes: > >does anyone have a good/bad, indifferent opinion about the cross drilled >brake >rotors, anyone use them and would like to share their experience with me, I'm >thinking of getting a pair for my 71 MGB but don't need them for just the wow >factor, I would like them to actually make a braking different. >____________________________________ > >They make zero difference except for 'wow' on the street. Don't bother with >them. > >In fact they make only slight difference on the track. > >Bill ====================== They made one H**L of a difference on the track this past weekend! The car would reliably vibrate wildly every time the brakes were applied at any speed. One rotor cracked all the way across, and the other rotor was about to at every drill hole. Peter C From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Sep 20 13:05:05 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 15:05:05 EDT Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors Message-ID: In a message dated 9/20/2007 11:52:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, peter at nosimport.com writes: They made one H**L of a difference on the track this past weekend! The car would reliably vibrate wildly every time the brakes were applied at any speed. One rotor cracked all the way across, and the other rotor was about to at every drill hole. ____________________________________ You know, Peter, I WAS going to mention that possibility, but figured it was a rare enough problem that I wouldn't bother. Guys, he is absolutely right, when you are racing and the rotors are subjected to extreme heating and cooling cycles, the holes can give rise to radiating cracks. As I said, probably not a factor for street use. Bill From barrie at look.ca Thu Sep 20 12:45:34 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:45:34 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bill, Unless you intend to do the Le Mans thing I would not bother. At 02:12 PM 9/20/2007, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 9/20/2007 11:07:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >1971mgb at cox.net writes: > >does anyone have a good/bad, indifferent opinion about the cross drilled >brake >rotors, anyone use them and would like to share their experience with me, I'm >thinking of getting a pair for my 71 MGB but don't need them for just the wow >factor, I would like them to actually make a braking different. > > > > >____________________________________ > >They make zero difference except for 'wow' on the street. Don't bother with >them. > >In fact they make only slight difference on the track. > >Bill >_______________________________________________ >barrie at look.ca > >Edit your replies > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Sep 20 13:20:28 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 21:20:28 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper References: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net><46F18046.90200@gmail.com> <007101c7fb34$5d2cb270$6601a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: <004701c7fbbb$4d9fc180$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Fully agree!!! Safety fast! I had a car once, where the engine stopped suddenly just after a cold start. I had to stop , but lost the vacuum of my brake system by the stalled engine - even 2 feet on the pedal did not stop the car - very frightning same effect as a sudden leaky / faulty hydraulics! Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "WJHS1960" To: Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 5:14 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper > Roxter: > > I most heartly agree!!! > > For whatever it's worth, I highly recommend having it done by a > shop > with a very good reputation for this work. My experience has led me to > that > conclusion, as well as various horror stories from friends and associates. > > > And to that end I have written Joe TWICE advising that I DO have > re-manfactured > calipers IN stock. > > Guess he want to "play" with SAFETY items and just "take a chance". > > BTDT and LEARNED my lesson, ONCE!! I just do NOT like to drive a car that > does NOT STOP. Something a bit "hairy" about the "sitution"!!! From mgbob at juno.com Thu Sep 20 13:37:48 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 15:37:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors Message-ID: <20070920.153815.2952.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Bill, I have never understood how they would have much advantage. For cooling, yes, there is additional metal exposed to air, but then the air within the small holes would be pretty much dead air within the holes, not being exchanged much for cooling, and if the purpose were to dissipate vapors from the hot pads, the vapors would be trapped in the holes during the time they were being clamped by the pads. . There is a firm advertising slotted rotors. These would appear to have advantage, in that they could allow the vapors to squirt out the slots and to allow dissipation of steam if the rotors and pads were wet. How do slotted compare to drilled? Could you write more about these topics? Bob On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 15:05:05 EDT WSpohn4 at aol.com writes: > In a message dated 9/20/2007 11:52:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > peter at nosimport.com writes: > > They made one H**L of a difference on the track this past weekend! > > The car would reliably vibrate wildly every time the brakes were > > applied at any speed. > > One rotor cracked all the way across, and the other rotor was about > > to at every drill hole. > ____________________________________ > > > > > You know, Peter, I WAS going to mention that possibility, but > figured it was > a rare enough problem that I wouldn't bother. > > Guys, he is absolutely right, when you are racing and the rotors > are > subjected to extreme heating and cooling cycles, the holes can give > rise to > radiating cracks. As I said, probably not a factor for street > use. > > Bill > _______________________________________________ > mgbob at juno.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul at ece.rochester.edu Thu Sep 20 13:53:54 2007 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 15:53:54 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> References: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: save your money and if you have spend it buy a case a beer and a good bottle of Bombay paul >does anyone have a good/bad, indifferent opinion about the cross drilled brake >rotors, anyone use them and would like to share their experience with me, I'm >thinking of getting a pair for my 71 MGB but don't need them for just the wow >factor, I would like them to actually make a braking different. >thanks in advance >_______________________________________________ >paul at ece.rochester.edu > >Edit your replies > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Sep 20 13:58:31 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 21:58:31 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors References: <20070920.153815.2952.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <005f01c7fbc0$9e7b6cd0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> IMHO both slotted and drilled rotors are a cheep way for optimizing the cooling. Both actions weaking the structure of the original. Better is to convert to vented rotors, which will need different callipers though. Pure for the race track performance drilled or slotted rotors may be effective, but special care should be applied for extra wear to the pads and the rotors. For normal better braking performance I would not take the risk. For what it is worth... Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Howard" To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 9:37 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors > Bill, > I have never understood how they would have much advantage. For > cooling, yes, there is additional metal exposed to air, but then the air > within the small holes would be pretty much dead air within the holes, > not being exchanged much for cooling, and if the purpose were to > dissipate vapors from the hot pads, the vapors would be trapped in the > holes during the time they were being clamped by the pads. . > There is a firm advertising slotted rotors. These would appear to > have advantage, in that they could allow the vapors to squirt out the > slots and to allow dissipation of steam if the rotors and pads were wet. > How do slotted compare to drilled? > Could you write more about these topics? > Bob From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Sep 20 14:21:30 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 16:21:30 EDT Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors Message-ID: In a message dated 9/20/2007 12:40:20 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mgbob at juno.com writes: There is a firm advertising slotted rotors. These would appear to have advantage, in that they could allow the vapors to squirt out the slots and to allow dissipation of steam if the rotors and pads were wet. How do slotted compare to drilled? Could you write more about these topics? ____________________________________ Both slots and holes are intended to deal with either gases trapped between the pad and rotor, or water from the road. Both promote cracking, sooner or later. Not a big deal on a race car as you are tossing them out and replacing them regularly. This isn't the only race technique that translates poorly to street use, IMO. The use of Teflon lined brake hoses with woven stainless steel outers poses no problems on race cars but can eventually wear through the inner plastic liner from rubbing on the woven sheath when used for high mileages on the street. IMHO the only way to improve this aspect of braking, without incurring possible failure, is to use grooved discs which have a groove machined into the face. This allows water or gas to escape without the potential weakness of setting up a stress riser that cracks the disc. The problem of course, is that the grooves disappear as the rotor wears, so no one makes them that way. Bill From cyberemp at comcast.net Thu Sep 20 15:23:42 2007 From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 21:23:42 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] fixnsell 74,5. Continuing saga. Message-ID: <092020072123.4403.46F2E4DE00087B4B0000113322165279669F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net> Greetings O-listers. Project 74.5 continues. Some of you may recall the tale of my endeavors to repair and sell one of my MGs. As is true with most projects I have undertaken in the past, the project has taken more time and money than I had anticipated. The problem of low compression in cylinder number three has been traced to a hairline crack in the cylinder head. I do have three other MGs from which to take another cylinder head, but this will only put the cost of replacement into the future, as I'll be fixing and selling those cars after I finish this one. The car was supposed to come with an overdrive transmission.( The reason I bought yet another MG) This turns out to be untrue.( B#st%rds)!!!!! While lowering the car I'm replacing all the bushings, cleaning up and painting the suspension and those no-style wheels, rebuilding the brakes, and repairing the rusted out dogleg on the passenger side. Amazing how much rust was hiding inside that fender. Were these cars originally made without a way for water to drain from that area? I'll check the other MGs to see. Maybe this was "fixed" before without regard for the future. It's an overcast day here in California. Perhaps I shall recover the seats. For years I've read of the woes of replacing the mgb seat covers, while knowing that there is a better way than those posted here. Since I'm on the digest, the problem is solved before I can chim in with my advice garnered from restoring "other" brands of cars. So I'll try to photo document my seat recovering, and perhaps add my 2cents of info to the archives. Non MG related note below. On a personal note, It appears that I'll be forced into early retirement as a result of the lasting affects of a car accident I had back in 1999. That wouldn't be so bad, except for the lack of money. I'll be selling my house here in California and moving to a place that has more affordable real-estate. (pretty much anywhere other than the San Francisco Bay area) My preference. More trees, fewer people. shop to work on cars. Last time I saw this kind of question posted to another list, people would respond with notes like "you don't want to move to Oregon. It rains all the time" :-) Respond privately if you live in a quiet area that has more trees, fewer people, and real-estate that doesn't cost more than the national debt. Suggest a realtor if you know an honest one. End of shameless non mg related message. Eric -- 1946 MG-TC 1959 MGA 65 MGB 70 MGB 71 MGB 74.5 MGB 00 Nissan X-Terra So many cars, so little parking, and soon to be no parking. From derex39 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 20 15:48:43 2007 From: derex39 at hotmail.com (Dereck C) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 21:48:43 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump Message-ID: I'm sure this subject comes up every other week (lurker when I can)... I've removed a non functioning SU fuel pump and removed the cap to expose the points. Cleaned and sanded them. Then put 12v to the pin and the ground and nothing happens. Capacitor shot? The pump worked ~3 years ago when I parked her and put her in the garage. Thoughts? Dereck 70 B PS Is there a search page for the archive anymore (haven't looked for it in years)? From ejrussell at mebtel.net Thu Sep 20 18:07:37 2007 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 19:07:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper References: Message-ID: <003e01c7fbe3$6d5b81d0$0202a8c0@ejrussell> My understanding is that the condition of the *pistons* is the most important. Slight pitting of the caliper's bores should not be a problem as the pistons ride in the seals ID (i.e. the seals do not ride in the bores the way the rings would do in the cylinders of an engine). The seal recess should be clean so the seals seat properly. Pitting of the caliper pistons warrants replacement (of the pistons). To finish the rebuilds, likely the most problematic part will be seating the seal retainers. That is a metal ring that is an interference fit into the caliper's bore. The retainer's function is to, umm, retain the seal. There is a 'special tool' available. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=59549 My work-around is to partially install the piston, position the new seal and retainer onto the piston then put an old retainer on top of that *up-side down*. Then I use a piece of plywood (imitating that part of the special tool) and a C-clamp to press the seal/retainer/piston into place. (Don't forget to remove the old retainer) Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- > the first step is to ascertain the condition of the bores, > It is highly probable that the bores will show pitting or > corrosion -- at this point I would just exchange them for > rebuilt units. There is really no point in going any further > > Max Heim From stargazer1 at cox.net Thu Sep 20 17:12:30 2007 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 16:12:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding a brake caliper In-Reply-To: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> References: <465F9A90-D7B6-4733-AA22-FB48785105DC@verizon.net> Message-ID: <46F2FE5E.6070500@cox.net> joseph cianciotti wrote: >Okay, so I have to rebuild it or have it rebuilt. How complicated a >job is it to do yourself? Is there a place where I can get step-by- >step directions? And what about parts? Other than changing the pads, >I've never done anything like this. Thanks for pointing me in the >right direction. > > I've done these rebuilds several times. They can be tricky, but I don't think it's beyond the reach of a good home mechanic. Remove one piston at a time with air pressure. A C-clamp will hold the opposing piston in place. There are two seals and a dust cover. The inner seal comes right out with a sharp, pointy tool. The outer seal can be pried out with a largish screw driver. Wedge it under the metal part and turn; working around the cylinder. You have to bring the seal out evenly. If you get it cocked, it will be a royal bear to remove (use the method below to reseat it and start over). Installing it without damage is the hard part. Gently clean the sealing surface with a brass wire brush. Corrosion will make it difficult to install the seals. You need to get the new outer seal started, then seat it square into the cylinder. I made sure the seal was started and square, then used a C-clamp and a piece of hardwood to press it into place. I see Moss has a $30 tool specifically for this job. I haven't tried one, but it sounds great if it works well. You might want to order an extra seal set. Cheers, Dave Ambrose From eric at erickson.on.net Thu Sep 20 17:53:35 2007 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 09:23:35 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Running "oversized" tyres that restricted some airflow around the brake discs I warped a front disc at the track in a way that scared me so much that I didn't want it to happen again. So I tried the cross-drilled/slotted rotors, They have been on the car for almost five years now, road and track, and have not experienced any negative issues with them. I can't really tell if they have IMPROVED my braking that much - I am just happy not to have experienced the bad stuff that I experienced with my "standard" discs. No noticable "cheese-grater" effect on the pads - I don't go through more pads than expected or acceptable. No cracks - five years of tough work and they are fine. Now all I have to do is remember the brand so I can recommend them :-) Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 20 18:15:04 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 17:15:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I can't speak for my MGB, but on my other car (which weighs 3400 lbs), I recently fitted cross-drilled, slotted, vented rotors, replacing the OEM vented rotors, which were seriously warped (and notorious for doing so). I then had the opportunity to do some vigorous driving on mountain roads, including downgrades of 9% and more. One on of these, due to catching up to slower traffic entering a series of hairpins, I managed to completely fade the brakes, so that it took several hundred feet to stop on a gravel turnout with the hand brake full on. After sitting and cooling for 15 minutes, I was able to continue. The rotors did not warp or show any other sign of damage. I attribute the fading to the fact I was using OEM organic brake pads rather than anything more aggressive, and that this car has a non-lockup automatic transmission. I suspect that cracking issues arise when people cross-drill their own rotors without proper stress relief. -- ==================== Max 1967 Fastback Johnny Lightning Muscle Cars USA #14 273 Commando Factory disc brakes Mountain View, CA on 9/20/07 4:53 PM, Eric Erickson at eric at erickson.on.net wrote: > Running "oversized" tyres that restricted some airflow around the > brake discs I warped a front disc at the track in a way that scared > me so much that I didn't want it to happen again. So I tried the > cross-drilled/slotted rotors, > > They have been on the car for almost five years now, road and track, > and have not experienced any negative issues with them. I can't > really tell if they have IMPROVED my braking that much - I am just > happy not to have experienced the bad stuff that I experienced with > my "standard" discs. > > No noticable "cheese-grater" effect on the pads - I don't go through > more pads than expected or acceptable. > No cracks - five years of tough work and they are fine. > > Now all I have to do is remember the brand so I can recommend them :-) > > > > > Eric > '68MGB MkII > Adelaide, South Australia From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com Thu Sep 20 19:34:29 2007 From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 21:34:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <76664a460709201834v6c6c1433p46135a8a53057c29@mail.gmail.com> Can you actuate the fuel pump by hand? Sort of unstick it? - Steve On 9/20/07, Dereck C wrote: > I'm sure this subject comes up every other week (lurker when I can)... > > I've removed a non functioning SU fuel pump and removed the cap to expose > the points. Cleaned and sanded them. Then put 12v to the pin and the > ground and nothing happens. Capacitor shot? The pump worked ~3 years ago > when I parked her and put her in the garage. > > Thoughts? > Dereck > 70 B > > PS Is there a search page for the archive anymore (haven't looked for it in > years)? > _______________________________________________ > temporarilyoffline at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Sep 21 02:06:17 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 09:06:17 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump References: Message-ID: <00d201c7fc27$b4f35b00$0200a8c0@Three> It won't be the capacitor. If that goes open circuit the pump will still run but the points spark badly. If it goes short-circuit it will burn up the wires. It sounds like you still have an open circuit. With 12v and ground connected to the pump terminals, use a voltmeter with the -ve terminal connected to the ground to test both sides of the points for 12v. If you get it one side and not the other the points are not closed, maybe your sanding has disturbed the setting, or left debris between them. If it was working before this is the most likely cause, that and corrosion on the two spade terminals. If you get 12v both sides of the points check the braided wire where the points connect to one side of the winding, and the other side of the winding where it connects to the body, there are three terminal tags involved. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I've removed a non functioning SU fuel pump and removed the cap to expose > the points. Cleaned and sanded them. Then put 12v to the pin and the > ground and nothing happens. From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca Fri Sep 21 05:11:22 2007 From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 08:11:22 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Message-ID: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> My B has overdrive and thankfully it is working fine. My question though may be simple but how does it actually work? I appreciate it is an "electric" overdrive but that electrical component must somehow be transferred to a mechanical advantage. I pondered this while driving back fro Halifax yesterday...the places you your mind goes when driving in the sun with the top down! Malcolm From r.gosling at penspen.com Fri Sep 21 05:31:08 2007 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 12:31:08 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF70A@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> An overdrive is an entirely separate gearbox that bolts onto the back of the main gearbox. It has two ratios, when it is off the ratio is direct (speed out = speed in), when engaged the speed out is greater than the speed in (can't remember the ratio of the top of my head!). It contains an epicyclic gearbox (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epicyclic_gearing), which works on the same basic principle as the 3-gear systems that were used in bikes when we were kids, before derailleurs took over. When you flick the switch, electricity is supplied to a solonoid. This solonoid operated a valve, re-directing oil pressure in the O/D (the O/D includes a small oil pump that uses oil from the gearbox). The oil pressure is used to engage a clutch, which changes the gear ratio. That's it in a nutshell, but I'm sure there's someone here who's had theirs apart and can tell you much more! Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. 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The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Sep 21 06:51:04 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 05:51:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D In-Reply-To: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: An OD uses a planetary gear set. Look at the gears in Richard Gosling's link. In the center is a single gear called the sun. Around that are several gears called planets, and out side that is the ring or annulus gear. If you hold any two of these gears together, the entire unit rotates as one solid piece. so lock the sun to the planets, sun to the ring, or planets to the ring, and you have a solid unit. This is gears 1-4, +reverse If on the other hand you hold one gear stationary, supply power to one of the other two, you get a speed changed out of the third. OD. In your OD is a thing called a cone clutch. When no oil pressure is applied, springs force the cone clutch to where it locks two of the components together. (Sun and planets I think, but I would have to look at a diagram to be sure.) When you hit the switch, the solenoid allows oil under pressure to go to the apply pistons which shove the cone clutch the other way, and it brakes one component. The trans output shaft supplies power one of the remaining two gears, and a speed change is had out of the third. Again, I am not sure without a diagram, but I think the ring is braked (held stationary) and power goes to the planets, and the output is from the sun. BTW the oil pressure comes from a very simple eccentric pump on the output shaft of the trans. I used to rebuild Laycocks on Volvos, very simple, very rugged design. Hope this helps, Rick On 9/21/07, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > > My B has overdrive and thankfully it is working fine. My question though > may be simple but how does it actually work? I appreciate it is an > "electric" overdrive but that electrical component must somehow be > transferred to a mechanical advantage. I pondered this while driving back > fro Halifax yesterday...the places you your mind goes when driving in the > sun with the top down! > > > Malcolm > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From peter at nosimport.com Fri Sep 21 07:50:18 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 08:50:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070921084542.035ffd48@nosimport.com> At 07:15 PM 9/20/2007, Max Heim wrote: >I can't speak for my MGB, but on my other car (which weighs 3400 lbs), I >recently fitted cross-drilled, slotted, vented rotors, replacing the OEM >vented rotors, A very important difference in that they were vented rotors on your car. 2 braking surfaces separated by fins, for those that haven't seen them. The pad only "works" on 1 of the drilled surfaces. Vented rotors on a B would probably be helpful. >I suspect that cracking issues arise when people cross-drill their own >rotors without proper stress relief. That is absolutely not the case with the ones we had fail. These were sold and manufactured by a reputable company. >-- >==================== >Max Peter C. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Sep 21 08:31:55 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:31:55 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> It's a bit like a 2-speed auto gearbox and is a bolt-on addition to the manual gearbox. The electrical solenoid closes a valve, which allows hydraulic pressure, derived from a pump on the overdrive unit input shaft, to operate some pistons, which moves a friction clutch from one position to another. In the released position the clutch locks the input shaft to the output shaft so you get direct drive. In the operated position the clutch locks against the casing which allows the input shaft to drive sun and planet gears (a bit like a diff which with one wheel locked turns the other at twice the speed of the prop-shaft) which 'gear up' the input shaft to give a faster rotation of the output shaft by about 25% (22.3 mph per 1000 rpm in overdrive top gear as opposed to 17.9 mph per 1000 rpm in straight top gear). In the released position i.e. OD not engaged forward drive is actually via a one-way clutch which positively locks the input and output shafts together, so there is no chance of the friction clutch slipping in low gears which is when the torque on the OD is at its greatest. With OD engaged the one-way clutch is free-wheeling and forward motion relies solely on the friction clutch to give forward motion. This is why OD is only available in higher gears - 3rd and 4th on most 4-cylinder cars and 4th gear only on the V8 (the restriction to 4th gear only on late North American models was for another reason altogether), i.e. when the torque in the OD is reduced and hydraulic pressure alone is sufficient to prevent the clutch slipping. With OD disengaged and reverse selected the one-way clutch is also free-wheeling, but the mechanical forces are such that the friction clutch surfaces tend to be pressed harder together which resists slipping, even though you are in a low gear. If the overdrive should happen to be engaged while you are reversing, then the action of the friction clutch and sun-gears are trying to turn the output shaft faster than the input shaft, but the one-way clutch is trying to resist it, and you get the 'irresistible force and immovable object' scenario. Except that the friction clutch is stronger than the one-way clutch and it is the latter that gets damaged, which is serious. For this reason there is a lock-out switch on the manual gearbox linkage which prevents OD being engaged in anything other than 3rd or 4th. This switch should *never* be disabled or bypassed by the user, as is done by some people to get OD in 1st and 2nd as well for some reason. *You* may remember to always switch OD off with the manual switch when reversing, but someone else may not, and they may destroy your OD. Also using OD in lower gear causes glazing of the clutch linings, which causes slippage. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > My question though may be simple but how does it actually work? From twobees at sprynet.com Fri Sep 21 09:06:58 2007 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:06:58 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors Message-ID: <002901c7fc61$0f5cdd80$0f4d1645@normoffice> Dear, 1971-red-mgb. My 2-cents. I switched from solid flat disk rotors to cross-drilled when I took my '66 B racing. I changed to slotted & cross-drilled next time I needed rotors. At the price, why not? In 6 years of racing, I never had a problem with them as described. However - those problems ARE something to consider. Good quality and careful preparation by camphering (sp?) the edges of the holes will help. I will say that I can't ever remember any competitor out-braking me in my MGB. I used Kevlar pads on the track & semi-metallics on the street. I also cut a slot in the street pads for water dissipation. That was done with a cross-cut hand saw about half-way through the brake material of the pad. There are some pads made this way. If you do it yourself, wear a respirator. Don't know what kind of stuff is in those pads. I found that the combination of slotted pads & slotted disks helped in the rain. I used my B both on the road & on the track. Often drove in the rain on local streets & highways. Never had the "opportunity" to drive in rain on the track. Bottom line - if you need to replace the disks & you want better braking, and you aren't buying junk, or putting them through extreme hot - cool cycles, spend the few extra $$ to get them. On the basis of value for $$, it is probably a relative gain. Just be aware that you can not get a shop to turn your rotors on their machines if you want to re-surface them. The holes can destroy the bits that cut the disk back. Norm Sippel no more disk brake LBCs, all drums now. From jello at ida.net Fri Sep 21 09:32:36 2007 From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 09:32:36 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D In-Reply-To: <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <1665.64.113.18.17.1190388756.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> We need to be careful about saying it's a bolt-on addition. One can not simply bolt an MGB overdrive unit onto an existing run of the mill non-OD gearbox. It takes a different shift mechanism, a different intermediat spacer, a different output shaft, a wiring harness, and a different driveshaft. No minor task. Lot's of good discussion about how the overdrive works though. Phil Bates '67 MGB - converted from non-OD to OD gearbox. > It's a bit like a 2-speed auto gearbox and is a bolt-on addition to the > manual gearbox. SNIP From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Sep 21 09:59:03 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 16:59:03 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> <1665.64.113.18.17.1190388756.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Message-ID: <008001c7fc68$5b5cdf80$0200a8c0@Three> Nevertheless it does bolt on (and off) to the manual gearbox and can be changed independently, it is not an integral part of a 'special' manual box. PaulH. > We need to be careful about saying it's a bolt-on addition. From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Sep 21 12:05:18 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:05:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] declining dollar In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <285692.99378.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- DON SCOTT wrote: > I think we as Americans may see more and more of our treasures > plucked > away by foreigners. At least we were able to buy cheap shirts from > Taiwan and bargain plumbing fixtures from China for several years > while our industrial base was dismantled. > > Anybody have any comments on this subject? That assumes that the value of the car is fixed in relationship to the value of the dollar, a faulty assumption. Try asking this question: Will a declining dollar mean that foreigners will come in and pluck away our gold bullion? No, because the value of all currencies floats in relation to the gold, the MG, or any other physical asset. What it does mean, in the long run, is that we're in for a spell of inflation as employees begin to demand cost of living adjustments (remember those?) to their salaries as the price of everything begins to inch up. This was a very foolish move on the part of the FED, and it really makes me question whether Ben Bernanke is insulating himself enough from political pressures. The rate decrease was obviously an attempt to ensure a softer landing for all the idiots that bought houses they couldn't afford with interest-only or variable-rate loans, and that is behavior the market should *punish* not reward. If you speculate in real estate, or any commodity, you should do it at your own risk. So now all of us are going to get to bail those bozos out through the diminished buying power of our dollars. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433 From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Fri Sep 21 14:22:06 2007 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 16:22:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: References: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <015c01c7fc8d$149229a0$3db67ce0$@com> I was under the impression that cross drilling the rotors was done to allow the gasses to escape from the high performance pads in use a number of years ago, not for heat dissipation. Using the current crop of high performance pads, the gas problem does not occur, so the high performance folks I know do not use cross drilled rotors. Only the "show car" types do. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ Having said that, I have recently driven roads on which every increment of additional heat dissipation was greatly appreciated. Again, it depends on your situation -- if I lived in Honeydew or Shelter Cove (see Northern California, Lost Coast), I'd be looking for carbon fiber discs... From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Fri Sep 21 17:04:10 2007 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 16:04:10 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <40b437200709211604h157e317blf96b2fb0351cf4c7@mail.gmail.com> Max, I can't count the number of times that the disks on my wife's Voyager have faded out. The down grades into Big Basin, John Muir Woods and Yosemite valley are all places where this has happened, even with ceramic pads. The rotors are vented on this vehicle. Regards, Simon On 9/20/07, Max Heim wrote: > I can't speak for my MGB, but on my other car (which weighs 3400 lbs), I > recently fitted cross-drilled, slotted, vented rotors, replacing the OEM > vented rotors, which were seriously warped (and notorious for doing so). I > then had the opportunity to do some vigorous driving on mountain roads, > including downgrades of 9% and more. One on of these, due to catching up to > slower traffic entering a series of hairpins, I managed to completely fade > the brakes, so that it took several hundred feet to stop on a gravel turnout > with the hand brake full on. After sitting and cooling for 15 minutes, I was > able to continue. The rotors did not warp or show any other sign of damage. > I attribute the fading to the fact I was using OEM organic brake pads rather > than anything more aggressive, and that this car has a non-lockup automatic > transmission. From eric at erickson.on.net Sat Sep 22 07:37:57 2007 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 23:07:57 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: <015c01c7fc8d$149229a0$3db67ce0$@com> References: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> <015c01c7fc8d$149229a0$3db67ce0$@com> Message-ID: <9E2AD089-BFB9-4849-893C-6418C6B51E44@erickson.on.net> On 22/09/2007, at 5:52 AM, Stephen West-Fisher wrote: > I was under the impression that cross drilling the rotors was done > to allow > the gasses to escape from the high performance pads in use a number > of years > ago, not for heat dissipation. Using the current crop of high > performance > pads, the gas problem does not occur, so the high performance folks > I know > do not use cross drilled rotors. Only the "show car" types do. > > Well I did not go for cross-drilled and grooved/vented rotors for any bling factor (no-one can see my discs). Of course we will never know if these rotors are the reason I have not warped another disc in the five or six years since I changed to them - but that is the outcome. Three years of competition and a warped rotor using the standard ones and since then no problems. The track I compete on primarily is VERY hard on brakes with almost every corner a hairpin with the back straight braking from 110mph+ to 25mph (which is where I warped the old disc). I have no reason to change - and no reason not to recommend others do the same as I did. I use high-performance/metallic pads... and don't go through an excessive aount of those either. Eric '68 MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia From derex39 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 22 08:42:18 2007 From: derex39 at hotmail.com (Dereck C) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 14:42:18 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump In-Reply-To: <76664a460709201834v6c6c1433p46135a8a53057c29@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I believe this was the actual problem, slightly gummed up. I checked and double checked the connections were clean and conducting. All seemed ok. So I sprayed some carb cleaner inside and shook it up, let it set. Then I tried it again. No work. So I did a bit of ginger prying. No difference. Eventually I woke it up when I inadvertantly jarred into the battery post on the positive connection (ie upside down) and the familiar tick came back. So I reconnected the pump and decided to see if the car would start. Turned the key and the pump ran fast, then slower, and eventually stopped. Well almost, the rear float bowl was leaking. Stuck valve. I removed the cover cleaned both bowls and reassembled. Then decided to pump out the fuel line of stale fuel. Think the whatever is in the tank is bad. Not surprized been sitting for a couple of years. So I decided to try to turn it over again. After a couple of tries she showed signs of running. Eventually, I got ignition and she fired on her own and couple of times. Sounded and looked like not all cylinders were firing. Running out of time (18 old daughter is pulling on me)...so long story short...I am getting more fuel out of the rear carb than the front. Think the float is set too high...floods the carb. Will get back with more details as they progress. Thanks for all the replies. Dereck 70 B 88 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 (another twin carb machine) http://www.vroc.org/view_profile.php?user_id=19900 ----Original Message Follows---- From: Steve To: "Dereck C" CC: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 21:34:29 -0400 Can you actuate the fuel pump by hand? Sort of unstick it? - Steve On 9/20/07, Dereck C wrote: > I'm sure this subject comes up every other week (lurker when I can)... > > I've removed a non functioning SU fuel pump and removed the cap to expose > the points. Cleaned and sanded them. Then put 12v to the pin and the > ground and nothing happens. Capacitor shot? The pump worked ~3 years ago > when I parked her and put her in the garage. > > Thoughts? > Dereck > 70 B > > PS Is there a search page for the archive anymore (haven't looked for it in > years)? > _______________________________________________ > temporarilyoffline at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From guinness at stclegal.com Sat Sep 22 09:55:01 2007 From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 10:55:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA Lights and Ignition Weird Problems Message-ID: <46F53AD5.7010707@stclegal.com> Here is a strange one. I have a MGA 1600. On two occasions I had a complete loss of power that I attributed to a faulty generator and a dead battery. Once the battery was charged it would start right up. Then, when I got it home, the rear (and only the rear) running/brake lights stayed on. If I disconnect the neg. battery terminal the light goes out and stays out when the terminal is reattached (this is a positive ground car). Then when I tried to start it, it would turn over strong, the fuel pump clicks happily, but it would not start. I was getting gas to the carbs, but no spark. I looked in the dizzy and nothing seemed amiss, but I installed a new rotor I had on hand. I pulled the plugs and they looked fine, but I cleaned them a bit anyway. Still no ignition. The next day I pulled a plug wire and attached my spark indicator and turned over the engine to see if I had spark, and lo and behold it started right up! I took it for a ride and it was running great. It started back up at each stop. However, when I got back home the rear lights stayed on again. I should add that I had a loss of power under load on the trip back home when the problem first appeared and my idle RPM were high @1200 to 1500. Where do I start to debug this one? Shake the chicken bones? Thanks Robert Guinness 1961 MGA 1600 From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 22 12:20:14 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 13:20:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] declining dolllar & MG cars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31FB9E73-4D9B-41A2-A4F2-7F4F63575F15@sbcglobal.net> Unfortunately this reminds me of the terrible economic policies of the late seventies when we saw gas prices higher than now and the death of MG, et al. permanent stagflation was what the democratic think tanks called it, I believe Jimmy Carter used the term malaise..... Only time will tell if this is a short term decision or if long term stupidity is on the way. It irritates me because it drives the cost of MG parts up! On Sep 22, 2007, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:05:18 -0700 (PDT) > From: David Breneman > Subject: Re: [Mgs] declining dollar > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <285692.99378.qm at web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > --- DON SCOTT wrote: > >> I think we as Americans may see more and more of our treasures >> plucked >> away by foreigners. At least we were able to buy cheap shirts from >> Taiwan and bargain plumbing fixtures from China for several years >> while our industrial base was dismantled. >> >> Anybody have any comments on this subject? > > > That assumes that the value of the car is fixed in relationship > to the value of the dollar, a faulty assumption. Try asking this > question: Will a declining dollar mean that foreigners will come > in and pluck away our gold bullion? No, because the value of > all currencies floats in relation to the gold, the MG, or any > other physical asset. What it does mean, in the long run, is > that we're in for a spell of inflation as employees begin to > demand cost of living adjustments (remember those?) to their > salaries as the price of everything begins to inch up. > > This was a very foolish move on the part of the FED, and it > really makes me question whether Ben Bernanke is insulating > himself enough from political pressures. The rate decrease > was obviously an attempt to ensure a softer landing for all > the idiots that bought houses they couldn't afford with > interest-only or variable-rate loans, and that is behavior > the market should *punish* not reward. If you speculate > in real estate, or any commodity, you should do it at your > own risk. So now all of us are going to get to bail > those bozos out through the diminished buying power of our > dollars. From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sat Sep 22 12:29:43 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 11:29:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] declining dolllar & MG cars In-Reply-To: <31FB9E73-4D9B-41A2-A4F2-7F4F63575F15@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <219491.23051.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Mike Duvall wrote: > Unfortunately this reminds me of the terrible economic policies of > the late seventies when we saw gas prices higher than now and the > death of MG, et al. permanent stagflation was what the democratic > think tanks called it, I believe Jimmy Carter used the term > malaise..... Jimmy Carter also had an influence on the demise of MG. His head of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, Ralph Nader stooge Joan Claybrook, was making very loud noises to the effect that one of the "highway safety" initiatives in the second Carter term would be to ban convertibles because of thair poor "rollover-worthiness". The US had already banned the MGB-GT for the same reason. The policy announcement caused GM to leave the convertible market in the late 70s, and no car maker sold soft top cars in the US again until the mid 1980s. Yeah, malaise was his term. Jimmy Carter was the perfect president for the 70s. What a bleak decade. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz From mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU Sat Sep 22 13:13:24 2007 From: mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU (Mark A. O'Neil) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 15:13:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brake fitting threads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, I have a '79 spridget and am redoing the brake lines. I cross threaded the front to rear line fitting at the main junction up front - danged tight space to get into - luckily the new one is brass and only the fitting threads appear to be mangled, and only the first few at that. So, I want to run a thread die over the fitting threads, but the dies I have are not or appear to not be correct (1/8 s.p. and 1/8 b.s.p.) as they do not run over the old fittings cleanly. Does anyone know the correct thread die to use? Thanks, -m From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Sep 22 15:27:01 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 16:27:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... Message-ID: <46F588A5.8050305@gmail.com> So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I change lanes for my exit, and hit a bump. Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies. Hit the starter, nothing. I have good speed so I manage to coast through the exit ramp and onto a frontage road. I pull the battery cover, battery looks fine. Check the connections on the starter, I pulled one off and put it back. Nothing. Get out the trouble light. Power across the battery. Power to the brown side of the fuse box, power to the other side, on 1. Check the ignition cutoff switch under the dash. It wasn't tripped. Fiddle with wires. Go back, and turn the key. Car starts. Cool. Put the tools away, close the trunk, close the hood. Drive on. No radio, no clock. Ignition light is on. Hmm. Get to work, and check all the fuses I can find. None blown. So I've got to do some tracing there. I'm thinking alternator. It needs a new belt anyway, it's been squealing when cold for the past month, or more. I think that the battery hopped and grounded out. It's not secured. I know, stupid. I had the positive taped over so it couldn't ground out. But I had left the lights on a while back and killed the battery, so I had opened it up for the trickle charger. Then didn't tape it back up. Paul. '77B. From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Sat Sep 22 16:39:02 2007 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:39:02 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors In-Reply-To: <9E2AD089-BFB9-4849-893C-6418C6B51E44@erickson.on.net> References: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> <015c01c7fc8d$149229a0$3db67ce0$@com> <9E2AD089-BFB9-4849-893C-6418C6B51E44@erickson.on.net> Message-ID: <004101c7fd69$60093cc0$201bb640$@com> That sounds like a good recommendation to me. Of course, my MG still has the original style rotors and pads, and it is the "high performance" car in my stable. I've never had any trouble with the brakes in it. My previous statement was from friends who race pony cars (yes, primarily Mustangs) around the track for fun. The ridiculous about of horsepower under some of those hoods has to be experienced to be believed. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ Well I did not go for cross-drilled and grooved/vented rotors for any bling factor (no-one can see my discs). Of course we will never know if these rotors are the reason I have not warped another disc in the five or six years since I changed to them - but that is the outcome. Three years of competition and a warped rotor using the standard ones and since then no problems. From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca Sat Sep 22 18:04:28 2007 From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:04:28 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: <002601c7fd75$4f14e980$9adee018@D95Y3D91> Fist a big thank you to all who supplied my with info on how the o/d works. Now that I know it is another thing that makes me say "cool" to myself. New question isn't a LBC question but relates to oil prices. Gas has been going up with fluctuations through out 2007 basically along with crude oil prices. Looking at he chart at: http://futures.tradingcharts.com/chart/CO/M it looks like it was about $58US in January and is now $74US. On January 21/07 gas in NS was $0.91/litre now its $1.06.5. almost a 20% increase See http://www.novascotiagasprices.com/retail_price_chart.aspx Now my question according to: http://www.indiescribe.com/2007/09/loonie-trading-.html the Canadian dollar has increased in US dollar value by 15% in that time. That being the case and since we buy oil in US dollars how come gas/diesel/heating oil have all gone up as though we were still buying with loonies that are worth their January value vs. the US dollar??? How is it that our increased purchasing power in the fund used to purchase crude does not translate into a slowing of the rising price of gas? Malcolm From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Sat Sep 22 18:17:36 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:17:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] crossed drilled brake rotors References: <007801c7fbb1$762b97a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><015c01c7fc8d$149229a0$3db67ce0$@com><9E2AD089-BFB9-4849-893C-6418C6B51E44@erickson.on.net> <004101c7fd69$60093cc0$201bb640$@com> Message-ID: <020c01c7fd77$2563edf0$6601a8c0@actualshop> <<(yes, primarily Mustangs)>> You are NOT comparing apples to apples there, Steve!! You ARE back to vented rotors. From rocknatural at gmail.com Sat Sep 22 18:25:44 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:25:44 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... In-Reply-To: <46F588A5.8050305@gmail.com> References: <46F588A5.8050305@gmail.com> Message-ID: <46F5B288.9090409@gmail.com> Paul Root wrote: > So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I change > lanes for my exit, and hit a bump. > Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies. Hit > the starter, nothing. > > I have good speed so I manage to coast through the exit ramp and onto a > frontage road. > > I pull the battery cover, battery looks fine. Check the connections on > the starter, I pulled one off and put it > back. Nothing. > > Get out the trouble light. Power across the battery. Power to the brown > side of the fuse box, power to the > other side, on 1. Check the ignition cutoff switch under the dash. It > wasn't tripped. Fiddle with wires. > > Go back, and turn the key. Car starts. Cool. > Bad connection; something you did temporarily fixed it. > Put the tools away, close the trunk, close the hood. Drive on. > > No radio, no clock. Ignition light is on. Hmm. > > Get to work, and check all the fuses I can find. None blown. So I've got > to do some tracing there. > > I'm thinking alternator. It needs a new belt anyway, it's been squealing > when cold for the past month, or more. > Definitely fix this. > I think that the battery hopped and grounded out. It's not secured. I > know, stupid. > I had the positive taped over so it couldn't ground out. But I had left > the lights on a while back and killed the battery, > so I had opened it up for the trickle charger. Then didn't tape it back up. My guess: not the alto. Find out why no radio, no clock. Might nor be hot side; might be ground. -The Roxter -- From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sat Sep 22 19:10:52 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:10:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <002601c7fd75$4f14e980$9adee018@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <768931.48453.qm@web42109.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: > it looks like [oil] was about $58US in January and is now $74US. > On January 21/07 gas in NS was $0.91/litre now its $1.06.5. > almost a 20% increase > the Canadian dollar has increased in US dollar value by 15% in that > time. That being the case and since we buy oil in US dollars how > come gas/diesel/heating oil have all gone up as though we were > still buying with loonies that are worth their January value vs. > the US dollar??? The difference between $58 and $74 is greater than the difference between $0.91 and $1.07, so that accounts for a lot of your missing 15%. There are also a lot of influences within a market which can effect the cost of production. Are special blends required in different jurisdictions at different times of the year? Are refineries being taken offline for maintenance? Also, remember that gas prices are a trailing indicator of oil prices, and they go up faster than they go down because oil companies need to hedge against the increases - they have to sell their gas for more right away so they can continue to buy the more expensive oil. However, when the price of oil is declining, the companies try to take profits to compensate for the money they lost when prices rose. There is also pressure from shareholders to pay dividends based on the belief that higher gas prices equate directly to higher profits, something that only obtains when the oil price crests. So there are lots of things that influence the price of gas besides just the price of oil and monetary exchange rates. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. http://farechase.yahoo.com/ From RampantNM at aol.com Sat Sep 22 19:10:49 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:10:49 EDT Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/22/2007 6:05:18 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, msjeffcock at eastlink.ca writes: How is it that our increased purchasing power in the fund used to purchase crude does not translate into a slowing of the rising price of gas? Malcolm _______________________________________________ Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sat Sep 22 19:13:51 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:13:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother > fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. I suppose you believe they should operate as charities? David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469 From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Sat Sep 22 19:49:28 2007 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:49:28 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA Lights and Ignition Weird Problems In-Reply-To: <46F53AD5.7010707@stclegal.com> References: <46F53AD5.7010707@stclegal.com> Message-ID: <40b437200709221849p53a7c7b3w3cc1ba78859feba8@mail.gmail.com> Isn't the indicator shared with the brake light? Perhaps there is a bad relay in the indicator system? From mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU Sat Sep 22 20:32:31 2007 From: mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU (Mark A. O'Neil) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 22:32:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Brake fitting threads In-Reply-To: <46F5CD10.5050808@comcast.net> References: <46F5CD10.5050808@comcast.net> Message-ID: <42A966B5-0E9F-43E3-86CF-F5EC7C8086C9@Dartmouth.EDU> On Sep 22, 2007, at 10:18 PM, Frank Clarici wrote: > 3/8 x 24 but it is a tapered pipe thread so only chase the first > few threads and it will be fine. Thanks Frank! I'll hit the hardware store for a die tomorrow. -m From mrazor at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 23 06:54:50 2007 From: mrazor at bellsouth.net (Mike Razor) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 08:54:50 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... In-Reply-To: <46F5B288.9090409@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20070923125359.613091879D9@autox.team.net> Coil? Loose connection to coil? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 23 07:36:30 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:36:30 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] declining dollar References: <285692.99378.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <014f01c7fde8$99f85fe0$0200a8c0@Three> Yes. Even with gold being priced in dollars, it *has* to either become more expensive for Americans to 'buy' or less expensive for non-Americans, as its price is also set by demand, no matter from which country. Whether America will sell any bullion or not is a separate issue, but in America everything has its price and if goes high enough someone will sell it. MGs aren't priced in a single currency but the same principles of supply and demand apply, . American MGs *are* cheaper to Europeans now than they were. Whether that will result in a flock of European purchases of 'American' MGs remains to be seen, and if it did so it would push the price up. Whether it would go so high as to force the American Government to introduce export controls so as to retain 'their' MGs also remains to be seen :o) PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > question: Will a declining dollar mean that foreigners will come > in and pluck away our gold bullion? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 23 07:52:22 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:52:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... References: <46F588A5.8050305@gmail.com> Message-ID: <018a01c7fdea$bcc4b0d0$0200a8c0@Three> If it *was* the battery that jumped up and shorted out on the cover then unless it welded itself there the interruption would have been momentary and the engine would have restarted while still being spun by the forward motion of the car, as you don't seem to have dipped the clutch for a few moments. The alternator shouldn't have been damaged by a short on the output, they are internally protected against over-current, but who knows what spikes might have been generated by shorting the battery (if that is indeed what happened, any tell-tale weld marks on the connector or cover?) as they should be disconnected when welding. If the engine didn't restart while it was still being spun, nor was there any power (warning light on?) when you turned the key to crank, that implies a failure of a brown connector at the solenoid, but they should be on studs on a 77 and very unlikely to respond to a bump. If the clock is still off that implies a problem in the purple circuit and should be easy to find. If the courtesy lights and horn are OK then it isn't the fuse so probably just the 12v or ground wire to the clock dropped off. For the radio it depends where it is powered from - normally it would be from the accessories position of the switch, is normally the only thing that is, and should have its own in-line fuse. Again it looks like a 'one-off' unless it shares the ground with the clock. If the car starts and runs but the ignition warning light is on that implies no charge from the alt, again easy to check at the plug on the alt. With some power having come back it looks like the original cause of loss of power to the engine has been lost ... until you hit that bump again. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I change > lanes for my exit, and hit a bump. > Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies. Hit > the starter, nothing. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 23 07:59:44 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:59:44 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump References: Message-ID: <018c01c7fdea$bdcad630$0200a8c0@Three> A high float has very little effect on running. If the carb is flooding it is because the float valve is faulty or the float is partially sunk i.e. contains fuel. Poor running of a long-time non-runner could be anything from bad components, plug leads on the wrong plugs, to simply being in need of a proper set-up of valves, all ignition components and carb. ----- Original Message ----- > ...I am getting more fuel out of the rear carb than the front. Think > the float is set too high...floods the carb. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Sep 23 07:55:53 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:55:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] new question References: <002601c7fd75$4f14e980$9adee018@D95Y3D91> Message-ID: <018b01c7fdea$bd6b7820$0200a8c0@Three> There is no direct connection between wholesale oil price and domestic prices charged for energy. Like a dog licking its privates (it does because it can), while the energy companies can charge more for the latter on a falling market for the former, they will. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > How is it that our increased purchasing power in the fund used to purchase > crude does not translate into a slowing of the rising price of gas? From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Sep 23 10:08:24 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:08:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... In-Reply-To: <018a01c7fdea$bcc4b0d0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <46F588A5.8050305@gmail.com> <018a01c7fdea$bcc4b0d0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <11161694-3475-44A4-A13A-1ACBF1ED4DAE@gmail.com> Yeah, that makes sense. This morning, it won't start. Just clicks. Ignition light comes on. When I turn to starter. The brake warning light comes on. Strange. Even weirder, the clock and the radio are now working again. So to me it sounds like I have a loose ground under the dash somewhere, plus something down in the starter/solenoid area. Plus check out the alternator and change the belt (which I've been meaning to do, anyway). Paul. On Sep 23, 2007, at 8:52 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > If it *was* the battery that jumped up and shorted out on the cover > then unless it welded itself there the interruption would have been > momentary and the engine would have restarted while still being > spun by the forward motion of the car, as you don't seem to have > dipped the clutch for a few moments. The alternator shouldn't have > been damaged by a short on the output, they are internally > protected against over-current, but who knows what spikes might > have been generated by shorting the battery (if that is indeed what > happened, any tell-tale weld marks on the connector or cover?) as > they should be disconnected when welding. If the engine didn't > restart while it was still being spun, nor was there any power > (warning light on?) when you turned the key to crank, that implies > a failure of a brown connector at the solenoid, but they should be > on studs on a 77 and very unlikely to respond to a bump. > > If the clock is still off that implies a problem in the purple > circuit and should be easy to find. If the courtesy lights and > horn are OK then it isn't the fuse so probably just the 12v or > ground wire to the clock dropped off. > > For the radio it depends where it is powered from - normally it > would be from the accessories position of the switch, is normally > the only thing that is, and should have its own in-line fuse. > Again it looks like a 'one-off' unless it shares the ground with > the clock. > > If the car starts and runs but the ignition warning light is on > that implies no charge from the alt, again easy to check at the > plug on the alt. > > With some power having come back it looks like the original cause > of loss of power to the engine has been lost ... until you hit that > bump again. > > PaulH. > > > ----- Original Message ----- >> So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I >> change >> lanes for my exit, and hit a bump. >> Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies. >> Hit >> the starter, nothing. > > Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sun Sep 23 10:32:40 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 09:32:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <018b01c7fdea$bd6b7820$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <95617.15345.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Paul Hunt wrote: > There is no direct connection between wholesale oil price and > domestic > prices charged for energy. Like a dog licking its privates (it > does because > it can), while the energy companies can charge more for the latter > on a falling market for the former, they will. As would anyone in their position. People seek their maximum utility. Just as gasoline sellers want to keep the price high, gasoline purchasers want to keep it low. The market is always seeking an equilibrium between these two forces. As long as there isn't collusion in groups of sellers (cartels) or buyers ("windfall profits" taxes) the market will find that equilibrium. If the sellers push the price too high, they'll be stuck with tank farms full of unsold gasoline. If the buyers push it too low, they'll be faced with shortages as the price falls below the cost of production. Look at an analogy from your own life - suppose your boss called you in and told you the company was having a hard time finding new employes so he was going to give you a raise as an incentive to stay on. Would you say, "Oh heaven's no! I'm already charging too much as it is, and I'm sure you resent paying so much for me! I simply cannot accept the money, even though my MG needs a transmission rebuild and my kids need braces, I just can't accept another dime!" The chance of that scenario playing itself out would be... ? David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Sep 23 10:49:03 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 09:49:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <95617.15345.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <499715.19924.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Part of the issue is that the price is always in our faces. What other industry puts their product's price in huge letters on every street corner?! rick --- David Breneman wrote: > --- Paul Hunt wrote: > > > There is no direct connection between wholesale > oil price and > > domestic > > prices charged for energy. Like a dog licking its > privates (it > > does because > > it can), while the energy companies can charge > more for the latter > > on a falling market for the former, they will. > > > As would anyone in their position. People seek > their maximum > utility. Just as gasoline sellers want to keep the > price high, > gasoline purchasers want to keep it low. The market > is always > seeking an equilibrium between these two forces. As > long as > there isn't collusion in groups of sellers (cartels) > or buyers > ("windfall profits" taxes) the market will find that > equilibrium. > If the sellers push the price too high, they'll be > stuck with > tank farms full of unsold gasoline. If the buyers > push it > too low, they'll be faced with shortages as the > price falls > below the cost of production. Look at an analogy > from your > own life - suppose your boss called you in and told > you the > company was having a hard time finding new employes > so he > was going to give you a raise as an incentive to > stay on. > Would you say, "Oh heaven's no! I'm already > charging too > much as it is, and I'm sure you resent paying so > much for me! > I simply cannot accept the money, even though my MG > needs > a transmission rebuild and my kids need braces, I > just > can't accept another dime!" The chance of that > scenario > playing itself out would be... ? > > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search > that gives answers, not web links. > http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC > _______________________________________________ > rolindsay at yahoo.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From don at napanet.net Sun Sep 23 10:51:17 2007 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 09:51:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20070923094505.02f3adb8@pop.napanet.net> I wouldn't say they need to be charities, but maybe nationalized would be one way to deal with their power to screw us all- not just with the prices/profits, but their use of it to lobby governments, to hire mercenaries in other countries to get oil, and to finance public opinion manipulating think tanks here in the US. Washington Post Staff Writer Friday, February 2, 2007; Page D01 It was a hard act to follow, but Exxon Mobil has managed quite an encore. After ringing up the biggest annual profit figure in U.S. corporate history in 2005, Exxon Mobil yesterday announced that it topped that number in 2006. Riding the wave of high crude oil and gasoline prices, the company reported a profit of $39.5 billion, up 9 percent from the year before. At 06:13 PM 09/22/2007, David Breneman wrote: >--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother > > fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. > >I suppose you believe they should operate as charities? > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date: 09/23/2007 1:53 PM From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Sep 23 11:49:41 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:49:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20070923094505.02f3adb8@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <863592.43333.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This has been my expectation for years. With any product that we CHOOSE to use indiscriminately and without regard to supply, the first solution recommended is always big government control - as if that would work. Okay, lets try it. Send Hillary out there to find the next oil discovery. rick - geophysicist in oil and gas exploration --- don wrote: > I wouldn't say they need to be charities, but maybe > nationalized would be > one way to deal with their power to screw us all- > not just with the > prices/profits, but their use of it to lobby > governments, to hire > mercenaries in other countries to get oil, and to > finance public opinion > manipulating think tanks here in the US. > > > Washington Post Staff Writer > Friday, February 2, 2007; Page D01 > > It was a hard act to follow, but > Exxon > > Mobil has managed quite an encore. > > After ringing up the biggest annual profit figure in > U.S. corporate history > in 2005, Exxon Mobil yesterday announced that it > topped that number in > 2006. Riding the wave of high crude oil and gasoline > prices, the company > reported a profit of $39.5 billion, up 9 percent > from the year before. > > > > > > > At 06:13 PM 09/22/2007, David Breneman wrote: > > >--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > > > Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are > profit making mother > > > fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. > > > >I suppose you believe they should operate as > charities? > > > > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - > Release Date: 09/23/2007 > 1:53 PM > _______________________________________________ > rolindsay at yahoo.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca Sun Sep 23 12:32:23 2007 From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:32:23 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: <000e01c7fe10$15986830$9adee018@D95Y3D91> Well that started a lot of debate when it wasn't intended. For those of you in the US I am in Nova Scotia where we have government control to some extent--weekly there is a designated minimum and maximum price set for retailers. Where my bewilderment comes from is on our pumps we have a little pie chart indicating a break down of the price-so much by percentage for crude, so much for taxes, so much profit etc. That's where I get puzzled since for our market there is a theoretical for crude costs and our dollar has increased significantly one would not anticipate the increase we have had if the government set percentages hold true...when I look at the price rise I would have no troubles with it at all IF we had had no change in our dollar's value vs. the currency in which the purchases are made....we saw the opposite in Nova Scotia a couple of decades ago when the Halifax Bridge commission had financed the debt for the two spans over the Halifax harbor in German marks--our dollar went down in comparison to the mark and we, to be blunt, got screwed in repaying as it took more dollars to buy the marks to pay with. Now we have the opposite situation but same result... For those of you who have debated the issue of government control I would not say its been a hugely successful venture here. A second puzzle to me is how diesel can at times cost more than regular when the cost of refining is much less---not a new subject for debate just an annoyance since I have Jetta diesel... Back to things MG/LBC and sorry to have hijacked the lists! Malcolm From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Sep 23 13:14:17 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:14:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <95617.15345.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <95617.15345.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Recently, one of the TV investigating reporters did a story on how Super America manipulates any market they are in with yo-yo pricing of gas. This summer it would jump up 15 cents a gallon over night, and 4 days later drop 10 cents. The study compared to markets that were about the same size, Minneapolis/St. Paul and Cincinnati (I think). MSP having SuperAmerica (Speedway), and Cincinnati not having them. Over all, the long term, the average price was the about the same, but while Cincinnati prices did small increases or decreases, as the market actually bares, MSP had huge swings in prices. Wisconsin State law allows only 1 price change a day for gas. I've seen the SA near us have 4 different prices in one day. Just seeing what they can get the competitors around them to swallow. On Sep 23, 2007, at 11:32 AM, David Breneman wrote: > --- Paul Hunt wrote: > >> There is no direct connection between wholesale oil price and >> domestic >> prices charged for energy. Like a dog licking its privates (it >> does because >> it can), while the energy companies can charge more for the latter >> on a falling market for the former, they will. > > > As would anyone in their position. People seek their maximum > utility. Just as gasoline sellers want to keep the price high, > gasoline purchasers want to keep it low. The market is always > seeking an equilibrium between these two forces. As long as > there isn't collusion in groups of sellers (cartels) or buyers > ("windfall profits" taxes) the market will find that equilibrium. > If the sellers push the price too high, they'll be stuck with > tank farms full of unsold gasoline. If the buyers push it > too low, they'll be faced with shortages as the price falls > below the cost of production. Look at an analogy from your > own life - suppose your boss called you in and told you the > company was having a hard time finding new employes so he > was going to give you a raise as an incentive to stay on. > Would you say, "Oh heaven's no! I'm already charging too > much as it is, and I'm sure you resent paying so much for me! > I simply cannot accept the money, even though my MG needs > a transmission rebuild and my kids need braces, I just > can't accept another dime!" The chance of that scenario > playing itself out would be... ? > > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ______________ > Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search > that gives answers, not web links. > http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Sep 23 13:15:40 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:15:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20070923094505.02f3adb8@pop.napanet.net> References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <6.0.3.0.1.20070923094505.02f3adb8@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <3B4B39FD-5254-4164-9D54-49E327F83BD1@gmail.com> There hasn't been too many industries in the US that have been made more efficient by getting the government involved. On Sep 23, 2007, at 11:51 AM, don wrote: > I wouldn't say they need to be charities, but maybe nationalized > would be > one way to deal with their power to screw us all- not just with the > prices/profits, but their use of it to lobby governments, to hire > mercenaries in other countries to get oil, and to finance public > opinion > manipulating think tanks here in the US. > > > Washington Post Staff Writer > Friday, February 2, 2007; Page D01 > > It was a hard act to follow, but > dispnav=business&mwpage=qcn&symb=XOM&nav=el>Exxon > Mobil has managed quite an encore. > > After ringing up the biggest annual profit figure in U.S. corporate > history > in 2005, Exxon Mobil yesterday announced that it topped that number in > 2006. Riding the wave of high crude oil and gasoline prices, the > company > reported a profit of $39.5 billion, up 9 percent from the year before. > > > > > > > At 06:13 PM 09/22/2007, David Breneman wrote: > >> --- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: >> >>> Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother >>> fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. >> >> I suppose you believe they should operate as charities? >> >> >> David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date: > 09/23/2007 > 1:53 PM > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Sep 23 15:57:04 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:57:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... In-Reply-To: <018a01c7fdea$bcc4b0d0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <46F588A5.8050305@gmail.com> <018a01c7fdea$bcc4b0d0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <98098A42-1447-4988-B554-75418AB2EF69@gmail.com> Examining the battery and cover, I don't see any marks, so I'm going with something else shorted out. The connector came loose on the starter again. I worked on that, crimped it down to get tighter. Hopefully that will hold now. The radio and clock started working again. I didn't get to looking under the dash, but I'm sure I'll find an iffy ground. The alternator (and the spare I found in my box) both tested bad. The spare didn't even have a post for the ignition light. It's the same alternator, but I bet it's for a different car. I've ordered a new one from Checker, it will be in on Friday. I'm wondering if Mark at Quality Coaches has one in stock? I wouldn't mind having two rebuilt ones. They are cheap enough. I don't have time to drive down to South Minneapolis this week anyway, especially with the Bridge gone. Paul. On Sep 23, 2007, at 8:52 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > If it *was* the battery that jumped up and shorted out on the cover > then unless it welded itself there the interruption would have been > momentary and the engine would have restarted while still being > spun by the forward motion of the car, as you don't seem to have > dipped the clutch for a few moments. The alternator shouldn't have > been damaged by a short on the output, they are internally > protected against over-current, but who knows what spikes might > have been generated by shorting the battery (if that is indeed what > happened, any tell-tale weld marks on the connector or cover?) as > they should be disconnected when welding. If the engine didn't > restart while it was still being spun, nor was there any power > (warning light on?) when you turned the key to crank, that implies > a failure of a brown connector at the solenoid, but they should be > on studs on a 77 and very unlikely to respond to a bump. > > If the clock is still off that implies a problem in the purple > circuit and should be easy to find. If the courtesy lights and > horn are OK then it isn't the fuse so probably just the 12v or > ground wire to the clock dropped off. > > For the radio it depends where it is powered from - normally it > would be from the accessories position of the switch, is normally > the only thing that is, and should have its own in-line fuse. > Again it looks like a 'one-off' unless it shares the ground with > the clock. > > If the car starts and runs but the ignition warning light is on > that implies no charge from the alt, again easy to check at the > plug on the alt. > > With some power having come back it looks like the original cause > of loss of power to the engine has been lost ... until you hit that > bump again. > > PaulH. > > > ----- Original Message ----- >> So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I >> change >> lanes for my exit, and hit a bump. >> Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies. >> Hit >> the starter, nothing. > > Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From don at napanet.net Sun Sep 23 16:03:36 2007 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:03:36 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <863592.43333.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <6.0.3.0.1.20070923094505.02f3adb8@pop.napanet.net> <863592.43333.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20070923145843.02f61d68@pop.napanet.net> Forget Hilary, send in an "oil man." Send in W and Arbusto! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arbusto_Energy At 10:49 AM 09/23/2007, Rick Lindsay wrote: >This has been my expectation for years. With any >product that we CHOOSE to use indiscriminately and >without regard to supply, the first solution >recommended is always big government control - as if >that would work. Okay, lets try it. Send Hillary out >there to find the next oil discovery. > >rick - geophysicist in oil and gas exploration -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date: 09/23/2007 1:53 PM From erictw1 at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 23 16:42:24 2007 From: erictw1 at sbcglobal.net (Eric Houkal) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:42:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... In-Reply-To: <018a01c7fdea$bcc4b0d0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <743288.25563.qm@web80707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I think I would be looking at the ignition switch first. Paul Hunt wrote: If it *was* the battery that jumped up and shorted out on the cover then unless it welded itself there the interruption would have been momentary and the engine would have restarted while still being spun by the forward motion of the car, as you don't seem to have dipped the clutch for a few moments. The alternator shouldn't have been damaged by a short on the output, they are internally protected against over-current, but who knows what spikes might have been generated by shorting the battery (if that is indeed what happened, any tell-tale weld marks on the connector or cover?) as they should be disconnected when welding. If the engine didn't restart while it was still being spun, nor was there any power (warning light on?) when you turned the key to crank, that implies a failure of a brown connector at the solenoid, but they should be on studs on a 77 and very unlikely to respond to a bump. If the clock is still off that implies a problem in the purple circuit and should be easy to find. If the courtesy lights and horn are OK then it isn't the fuse so probably just the 12v or ground wire to the clock dropped off. For the radio it depends where it is powered from - normally it would be from the accessories position of the switch, is normally the only thing that is, and should have its own in-line fuse. Again it looks like a 'one-off' unless it shares the ground with the clock. If the car starts and runs but the ignition warning light is on that implies no charge from the alt, again easy to check at the plug on the alt. With some power having come back it looks like the original cause of loss of power to the engine has been lost ... until you hit that bump again. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I change > lanes for my exit, and hit a bump. > Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies. Hit > the starter, nothing. _______________________________________________ erictw1 at sbcglobal.net Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Sep 23 17:08:55 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:08:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] a couple more pictures, for anyone interested Message-ID: <854663.56251.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Today, I finished painting the front cross-brace. It's now curing. Tomorrow, time permitting, I'll install the new 'stickers' and commission number plate. Primed and drying: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front_cross_brace_primer_2.JPG Painted and drying: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front-cross_brace_paint_2.JPG More primered: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front_cross_brace_primer_1.JPG More painted: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front_cross_brace_paint_1.JPG From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sun Sep 23 17:12:09 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:12:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] a couple more pictures, for anyone interested In-Reply-To: <854663.56251.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <344861.34305.qm@web82313.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Links corrected... Today, I finished painting the front cross-brace. It's now curing. Tomorrow, time permitting, I'll install the new 'stickers' and commission number plate. Primed and drying: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front_cross_brace_primer_2.JPG Painted and drying: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front_cross_brace_paint_2.JPG More primered: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front_cross_brace_primer_1.JPG More painted: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/front-cross_brace_paint_1.JPG From alan.costich at pictometry.com Fri Sep 21 06:16:28 2007 From: alan.costich at pictometry.com (Alan Costich) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 08:16:28 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] ball bearing distributor Message-ID: <448D0FB627A39B44BA9582DFDED6EF0C02A1F1CA@angel.pictometry.com> Quite some time ago, someone wrote up a great treatise on replacing the bronze bushing in Lucas Distributors with ball bearings. Anyone remember it? Can anyone point me to it? Thanks. Alan MG BGT # 68 NOTICE: This message is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, Title 18, United States Code, ?? 2510-2521. This e-mail and any attached files are the exclusive property of Pictometry International Corp., are deemed privileged and confidential, and are intended solely for the use of the individual(s) or entity to whom this e-mail is addressed. If you are not one of the named recipient(s) or believe that you have received this message in error, please delete this e-mail and any attachments and notify the sender immediately. Any other use, re-creation, dissemination, forwarding or copying of this e-mail is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. From alan.costich at pictometry.com Fri Sep 21 06:25:15 2007 From: alan.costich at pictometry.com (Alan Costich) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 08:25:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] cross drilled rotors Message-ID: <448D0FB627A39B44BA9582DFDED6EF0C02A1F1DA@angel.pictometry.com> I ran cross drilled rotors on my racing BGT. When I changed to Hawk Blue pads, the rotors chewed them up like a cheese grater. And in turn, the there were grooves worn in the rotors in line with the drilled holes. Lasted less than one season. Not impressed. Alan MG BGT # 68 NOTICE: This message is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, Title 18, United States Code, ?? 2510-2521. This e-mail and any attached files are the exclusive property of Pictometry International Corp., are deemed privileged and confidential, and are intended solely for the use of the individual(s) or entity to whom this e-mail is addressed. If you are not one of the named recipient(s) or believe that you have received this message in error, please delete this e-mail and any attachments and notify the sender immediately. Any other use, re-creation, dissemination, forwarding or copying of this e-mail is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. From Wesley.Lyon at ge.com Wed Sep 19 12:08:28 2007 From: Wesley.Lyon at ge.com (Lyon, Wesley (GE Healthcare)) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 14:08:28 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] My 1965 MGB For Sale on EBay....Finally Message-ID: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagena me=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280154875973&rd=1 Wesley Lyon Customer Service GE Healthcare Technologies Centricity Physician Office Practice Management 6860 North Dallas Parkway Suite 700 Plano, TX 75024 T 888 436 8491 - Option 2 then Option 3 F 214 853 5933 From rolindsay at yahoo.com Sat Sep 22 15:34:57 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 14:34:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] The right front corner Message-ID: <982960.4095.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Friends, Here are a few pictures of the cosmetic tweaking of my MGB's right front corner, fender and lighting. This isn't rocket science or even mechanic work. Its details. I enjoy details when I tire of mechanics. Picture http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_1.JPG shows the right-front corner with (most of) the lighting, bumper and grill removed. You can see the nicks and chips as well as the chewed up lower valence. Yes, the right front axle is still calling for work but I just got tired of axles and brakes. They'll get my full attention when the corners get boring. BTW, the battery is from our Land Rover, not the MG. http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_2.JPG is just a closer look like pix-1. http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_3.JPG is a look from the grill opening side. At this stage, nothing had been cleaned up - including the wiring. Nothing but parts removal. Next major step was to remove the valence for a little panel beating. The light openings were cleaned up and the paint chips were removed. The opening was then painted http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_4.JPG . You can also see that the upper cross-brace has been cleaned and all labels removed. That brace will get primered a little later and new red paint will be sprayed on. After the paint cures, new labels will be applied. Picture http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_5.JPG shows a little surface rust where the valence was mounted. It also shows that the red touch-ups around the lights cleans up the looks. The paint has also been polished near the lights. http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_6.JPG is just another look like pix-5 but with the flash on. Kinda washes out the color of the paint. Picture http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_7.JPG shows the front-end with the valence reinstalled and painted. All rusty surfaces were cleaned, primered and painted. The surface of the valence is a pebble finish so it doesn't look 'smooth' in these pictures. It is nice and clean though and a pleasure to work around. The side marker has been restored and reinstalled. This process isn't documented but I will do so for the left-front corner. http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_9.JPG is a look with the lighting reassembled. This is a flash picture so it also washes out and turns the red to rose. This is a 1970 car and the turn signal assemblies are correct for 1970. However, the PO bought new lenses for a pre-1970 model so they are two-color. They're all-but new so I chose to reuse them rather than buying new, correct lenses. The lenses are mounted with the amber portion in front of the lamp. The clear side is in front of a blank spot on the lamp fixture. All of this is why I installed the lenses as you see them. http://www.aubard.us/MGB/RF_corner_10.JPG is the kinda-art look at the corner. When the bumper is back on, the corner will look pretty crisp. Like I said, its the little things that make the car really 'snap'! Happy Saturday! rick '03 Land Rover DII '98 Mercedes SL500 '96 BMW 740iL '79 Ferrari 308GTB '70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 24 01:51:34 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 08:51:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Driving, one bump, no power .... References: <46F588A5.8050305@gmail.com> <018a01c7fdea$bcc4b0d0$0200a8c0@Three> <11161694-3475-44A4-A13A-1ACBF1ED4DAE@gmail.com> Message-ID: <007a01c7fe80$ce98fc30$0200a8c0@Three> The brake warning light will come on when you turn the key to crank if the handbrake is down, that is a 'bulb test' feature. As to the click it could be the starter relay by the fusebox, or the solenoid on the starter. If it's the solenoid, does the warning light dim right down as well? If not then the solenoid isn't applying power to the starter, which could be its contacts or the motor brushes/commutator. If it is then either the battery is flat, one or more of the main battery and ground cable connections are bad, or the starter is jammed. If it's the relay that is clicking then it's contacts aren't applying power to the solenoid. Either because the 12v supply (brown) is missing from the one side of the contacts, the contacts are faulty, the brown/white has come off either the other relay contact or the solenoid spade, or the solenoid winding is faulty. I'd get it started and running first, deal with the alternator last when you can prove it is faulty. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > This morning, it won't start. Just clicks. Ignition light comes on. > When I turn to starter. The brake warning > light comes on. From paul at ece.rochester.edu Mon Sep 24 04:09:26 2007 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 06:09:26 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <1665.64.113.18.17.1190388756.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> <1665.64.113.18.17.1190388756.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Message-ID: Since we are on this topic, have heard 2 different thoughts here . one says you can use the same shaft in both applications , one says you have to use a od shaft only with the od. Thoughts?? paul >We need to be careful about saying it's a bolt-on addition. One can not >simply bolt an MGB overdrive unit onto an existing run of the mill non-OD >gearbox. It takes a different shift mechanism, a different intermediat >spacer, a different output shaft, a wiring harness, and a different >driveshaft. No minor task. > >Lot's of good discussion about how the overdrive works though. > >Phil Bates >'67 MGB - converted from non-OD to OD gearbox. > >> It's a bit like a 2-speed auto gearbox and is a bolt-on addition to the >> manual gearbox. > >SNIP >_______________________________________________ >paul at ece.rochester.edu > >Edit your replies > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 24 04:38:12 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 05:38:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91><005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three><1665.64.113.18.17.1190388756.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Message-ID: <002201c7fe98$dfcc9800$8215a8c0@Garage.local> i have a 73 b - we swapped in an od tranny and istr we did not swap driveshafts ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Osborne" To: Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 5:09 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts > Since we are on this topic, have heard 2 different thoughts here . > one says you can use the same shaft in both applications , one says > you have to use a od shaft only with the od. Thoughts?? > > paul > >>We need to be careful about saying it's a bolt-on addition. One can not >>simply bolt an MGB overdrive unit onto an existing run of the mill non-OD >>gearbox. It takes a different shift mechanism, a different intermediat >>spacer, a different output shaft, a wiring harness, and a different >>driveshaft. No minor task. >> >>Lot's of good discussion about how the overdrive works though. >> >>Phil Bates >>'67 MGB - converted from non-OD to OD gearbox. >> >>> It's a bit like a 2-speed auto gearbox and is a bolt-on addition to the >>> manual gearbox. >> >>SNIP > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 24 04:51:50 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 11:51:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91><005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three><1665.64.113.18.17.1190388756.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Message-ID: <001a01c7fe99$d1d72de0$0200a8c0@Three> It's nowhere near as complicated as the previous poster implied (for both the prop-shaft and anything else). Although some people do opt for a complete gearbox, OD and prop-shaft swap others don't. Originally the banjo non-OD prop-shaft was 30" and the OD 31.125". The Salisbury non-OD was also 31.125" (and the same part number as the banjo OD) and the OD 32", but only on MkI cars. MKII cars to the end of production with the all-synchro gearbox all used the 31.125" propshaft regardless of whether they had OD (LH-type), again the same part number as the banjo OD and the MkI tube non-OD. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Since we are on this topic, have heard 2 different thoughts here . > one says you can use the same shaft in both applications , one says > you have to use a od shaft only with the od. Thoughts?? > >>We need to be careful about saying it's a bolt-on addition. One can not >>simply bolt an MGB overdrive unit onto an existing run of the mill non-OD >>gearbox. It takes a different shift mechanism, a different intermediat >>spacer, a different output shaft, a wiring harness, and a different >>driveshaft. From barrie at look.ca Mon Sep 24 07:34:07 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:34:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My heart really bleeds for the oil companies. Crude goes down a few dollars, gas prices at the pumps stay the same. Crude goes up, gas prices go up. The Canadian dollar goes up, gas prices at the pumps stays the same, Canadian dollar goes down, gas prices at the pump go up. Weekends come and gas prices at the pumps go up, weekends go and gas prices at the pumps goes down - maybe! It must be hard to battle these insidious market forces which make it impossible for oil companies to take advantage of lowering market prices. You have to sympathise with companies struggling to make a profit especially as they have to cater for the demand which could evaporate at any moment. Treat your local oil company with the respect it deserves.....and while you are at it get rid of that stupid SUV, 4X4, or pick-up.....and don' t give that old malarkey "we need the space" because you don't At 09:13 PM 9/22/2007, David Breneman wrote: >--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother > > fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. > >I suppose you believe they should operate as charities? > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > >____________________________________________________________________________________ >Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who >knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. >http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469 >_______________________________________________ >barrie at look.ca > >Edit your replies > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From wsthompson at thicko.com Mon Sep 24 07:38:13 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 08:38:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> Barrie, You don't know shit about what I need regarding space. WST -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 8:34 AM To: David Breneman; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] new question My heart really bleeds for the oil companies. Crude goes down a few dollars, gas prices at the pumps stay the same. Crude goes up, gas prices go up. The Canadian dollar goes up, gas prices at the pumps stays the same, Canadian dollar goes down, gas prices at the pump go up. Weekends come and gas prices at the pumps go up, weekends go and gas prices at the pumps goes down - maybe! It must be hard to battle these insidious market forces which make it impossible for oil companies to take advantage of lowering market prices. You have to sympathise with companies struggling to make a profit especially as they have to cater for the demand which could evaporate at any moment. Treat your local oil company with the respect it deserves.....and while you are at it get rid of that stupid SUV, 4X4, or pick-up.....and don' t give that old malarkey "we need the space" because you don't At 09:13 PM 9/22/2007, David Breneman wrote: >--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother > > fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. > >I suppose you believe they should operate as charities? > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com From barrie at look.ca Mon Sep 24 08:01:51 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:01:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> Message-ID: WST I think there is a sort of unwritten rule that this august group does not engage in berating other members of the list, and foul language is definitely frowned upon. Perhaps you do need the space but I bet you can reduce the amount you need with a little common sense, which I do suppose you have? At 09:38 AM 9/24/2007, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote: >Barrie, > > >You don't know shit about what I need regarding space. > >WST > >-----Original Message----- >From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net >[mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >Barrie Robinson >Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 8:34 AM >To: David Breneman; mgs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Mgs] new question > >My heart really bleeds for the oil companies. Crude goes down a few >dollars, gas prices at the pumps stay the same. Crude goes up, gas >prices go up. The Canadian dollar goes up, gas prices at the pumps >stays the same, Canadian dollar goes down, gas prices at the pump go >up. Weekends come and gas prices at the pumps go up, weekends go and >gas prices at the pumps goes down - maybe! It must be hard to battle >these insidious market forces which make it impossible for oil >companies to take advantage of lowering market prices. You have to >sympathise with companies struggling to make a profit especially as >they have to cater for the demand which could evaporate at any moment. > >Treat your local oil company with the respect it deserves.....and >while you are at it get rid of that stupid SUV, 4X4, or >pick-up.....and don' t give that old malarkey "we need the space" >because you don't > >At 09:13 PM 9/22/2007, David Breneman wrote: > >--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > > > Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother > > > fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. > > > >I suppose you believe they should operate as charities? > > > > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From wsthompson at thicko.com Mon Sep 24 08:06:23 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:06:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> Message-ID: <000101c7feb4$1919ad30$4b4d0790$@com> Barrie... the word "shit" might be offensive to you... but no more offensive to me than you presuming to tell me what to drive. Your comment about comment sense would seem to be an attempt to berate me... so, now you're 0 for 2 in terms of eating your own dogfood. -----Original Message----- From: Barrie Robinson [mailto:barrie at look.ca] Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:02 AM To: Wm. Severin Thompson; 'David Breneman'; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Mgs] new question WST I think there is a sort of unwritten rule that this august group does not engage in berating other members of the list, and foul language is definitely frowned upon. Perhaps you do need the space but I bet you can reduce the amount you need with a little common sense, which I do suppose you have? At 09:38 AM 9/24/2007, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote: >Barrie, > > >You don't know shit about what I need regarding space. > >WST > >-----Original Message----- >From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net >[mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >Barrie Robinson >Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 8:34 AM >To: David Breneman; mgs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Mgs] new question > >My heart really bleeds for the oil companies. Crude goes down a few >dollars, gas prices at the pumps stay the same. Crude goes up, gas >prices go up. The Canadian dollar goes up, gas prices at the pumps >stays the same, Canadian dollar goes down, gas prices at the pump go >up. Weekends come and gas prices at the pumps go up, weekends go and >gas prices at the pumps goes down - maybe! It must be hard to battle >these insidious market forces which make it impossible for oil >companies to take advantage of lowering market prices. You have to >sympathise with companies struggling to make a profit especially as >they have to cater for the demand which could evaporate at any moment. > >Treat your local oil company with the respect it deserves.....and >while you are at it get rid of that stupid SUV, 4X4, or >pick-up.....and don' t give that old malarkey "we need the space" >because you don't > >At 09:13 PM 9/22/2007, David Breneman wrote: > >--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > > > Because they don't HAVE to. Oil companies are profit making mother > > > fu....Ah... I mean ,,,enterprises. > > > >I suppose you believe they should operate as charities? > > > > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 24 08:39:55 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:39:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil company - non mg thread Message-ID: At the risk of continuing this non-mg thread I felt I had to get my 2 cents in since their have been so many posts about oil company profits. Oil company profits when compared to other companies are not out of line. They have made better profits over the last few years as the worldwide demand for oil has skyrocketed. China is now a major user of oil. The big numbers we here about oil company revenues being highest in history are true but that means only that there is a big market for oil. According to the Washington Post, Exxon had a profit of 10% in the first quarter of this year and demand went up 1. 7 % for the quarter. Much of the Exxon profit came because their refineries managed to stay open while other companies could not keep them open. Now compare that to the greedy taxation place on oil and gas. The average US tax on gas is more around the range of 15 to 20%. The average is about currently 40 to 50 centers per gallon according to the Congressional Budget Office. Now if Exxon has a profit of 10% and gas costs $3.00 that is 30 cents compared to the 15 percent taken by the government. Certainly 10% profit is not unreasonable for a company. You local car dealer makes more like 30% on a car without an investment - they borrow to put the cars on their lot. In terms of return per share, Oil companies are not that high either. Record profits in 06 for Exxon were about $1.71 per share which and a share was $75. While the stock has risen in the last year the current dividend yield is 1.53% according to CNNMoney.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Sep 24 08:53:37 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 15:53:37 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Oil company - non mg thread References: Message-ID: <000d01c7febc$9973ac30$0200a8c0@Three> Think yourself lucky you don't have a UK Government. ----- Original Message ----- > Now compare that to the greedy taxation place on oil and gas. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Sep 24 09:26:31 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 08:26:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <865772.69382.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Barrie Robinson wrote:Treat your local oil company with the respect it deserves.....and while you are at it get rid of that stupid SUV, 4X4, or pick-up.....and don' t give that old malarkey "we need the space" because you don't ---------------------- Now, Barrie, as you've seen, that's certainly a generalization on your part. While it's true that there are plenty of people that pick SUV's over a minivan for the 'style', even though a minivan will have more room than a large SUV and get better gas mileage, plenty of folks need, if not the space, then the towing capacity of the large SUV's. I know our Boy Scout Troop could not survive without the Scoutmaster's Toyota Sequoia to tow our trailer, or one of the several Suburbans in the Troop if the Scoutmaster isn't available. As far as oil company profits are concerned, I always make sure that my mutual funds have oil company stocks in times like these..... ;-) Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From Aeseeyou at aol.com Mon Sep 24 09:29:26 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 11:29:26 EDT Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/24/2007 7:01:18 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, barrie at look.ca writes: I think there is a sort of unwritten rule that this august group does not engage in berating other members of the list, and foul language is definitely frowned upon. Good People... Here, Here...Let's show a modest degree of decorum...please. Albert Escalante CCBCC-California ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From tmcl98 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 24 10:29:37 2007 From: tmcl98 at yahoo.com (Tom McLaughlin) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:29:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 77B, what's it worth Message-ID: <717024.91707.qm@web60524.mail.yahoo.com> All, I'm quickly coming to the resolution that I may sell my 77B. It's not that I need the money; it's not that I don't love the car; it's that I have two little kids and frankly can't justify the hobby right now. Every time I walk out into the garage, I feel blue because the car sat there another week with perhaps a few miles (if any) and no work done on it (the thing I liked most about the hobby). I hope I'll come back to this hobby when the kids get older, but right now it feels more like a burden. So... I'm not putting it up for sale yet, but in considering it, I've wondered what I would sell it for so I thought I would ask the list. I've had the car 11 years. It is unrestored, but I"ve done a bunch of work to it over the years. After about the first 3 years it became fairly reliable. I've replaced brakes, fuel pumps, fixed the overdrive, alternators, overhauled the carb (ZS), ball joints, tires and I'm sure done a few things that would classify me as a DPO (because I probaby didn't know better). So, I'd say it is fairly close to original, body in decent shape, and runs pretty good. I'm putting in a new fuel pump now and fixing the leaky gas tank. I also have a new top that I never installed that I'd let go with the car. Any thoughts on what it is worth? Tom 77B From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Sep 24 10:39:28 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:39:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <594740.92566.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <621255.50262.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Rick Lindsay wrote: > Defining what another may haul is about the same as > defining maximum speed. My 308 will top 150mph but of > course, I never do that. The point is that when > external controls enter the system - especially if > governemental controls - we get useless things like > 85mph speedometers in Lamborghinis. :-P And remember, when the government comes to confiscate "unnecessary" vehicles, sports cars will be right up there with SUVs, snowmobiles and speedboats. Be very careful how you choose your enemies. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Sep 24 10:53:03 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:53:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 77B, what's it worth In-Reply-To: <717024.91707.qm@web60524.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <921243.95043.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Tom McLaughlin wrote:Any thoughts on what it is worth? -------------------- Very difficult to say sight-unseen, Tom, and you don't say where you're located, as geography does make a difference..... But I'd suggest you monitor sales on eBay, for example, as a way to gauge what people are willing to pay in your area. You may also want to look at classified ads on local British Car Club websites. Certainly body condition is an important aspect of value, as potential B buyers are always told to be aware of rust. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Sep 24 11:16:45 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:16:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <001a01c7fe99$d1d72de0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAEFFB4@kb1.mossmotors.com> I made up simple diagram to understand this many years ago. All you have to remember is 1", because the extra .125" is too hard to read. It is a bit counter intuitive though as the 3 sych 4 spd is longer than the 3 synch OD box. 3 synch 4 spd - Early Banjo short 30" 3 synch OD - Early Banjo Med. 31.125" 3 synch OD - Saulsbury Long 32" 4 synch 4spd/OD - Saulsbury Med. 31.125" The rarest driveshaft is the 1966-67 MGB GT with OD. (long) The banjo diff. is 1" longer than the Saulsbury Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt > Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 3:52 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net; Paul Osborne > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts > > It's nowhere near as complicated as the previous poster implied (for both > the prop-shaft and anything else). Although some people do opt for a > complete gearbox, OD and prop-shaft swap others don't. Originally the > banjo > non-OD prop-shaft was 30" and the OD 31.125". The Salisbury non-OD was > also > 31.125" (and the same part number as the banjo OD) and the OD 32", but > only > on MkI cars. MKII cars to the end of production with the all-synchro > gearbox all used the 31.125" propshaft regardless of whether they had OD > (LH-type), again the same part number as the banjo OD and the MkI tube > non-OD. > > PaulH. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Mon Sep 24 11:30:36 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:30:36 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts Message-ID: In a message dated 9/24/2007 10:20:20 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: 3 synch 4 spd - Early Banjo short 30" 3 synch OD - Early Banjo Med. 31.125" 3 synch OD - Saulsbury Long 32" 4 synch 4spd/OD - Saulsbury Med. 31.125" ____________________________________ Nice to have that table, Kelvin. For those going to an OD on the early cars with banjo axle, the alternatives are to have a longer driveshaft made up, or to machine a spacer and use longer bolts. I have done the latter quite successfully, but I'd make sure to use grade 8 bolts and to have the spacer machined so that it fits properly into the third member flange and the driveshaft. Nice not to have to worry about it on Salisbury axled cars Bill From tmcl98 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 24 12:55:46 2007 From: tmcl98 at yahoo.com (Tom McLaughlin) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 11:55:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 77B, what's it worth Message-ID: <736175.1854.qm@web60511.mail.yahoo.com> St. Louis, MO The car was a bought in Texas. I'm sure everyone says this, but it's always been garaged since I've had it and never driven in bad weather. I don't think rain has touched it, but a few times in the time that I've owned it. I flipped the odometer a year or so ago. Not sure if it has 100k+ miles on it or 200k+. Thanks for the eBay idea. I'll check the postings. I'll also take some pics and put them on a website if I do, sigh, decide to sell it. Tom ----- Original Message ---- From: Dan DiBiase To: Tom McLaughlin ; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 11:53:03 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] 77B, what's it worth Tom McLaughlin wrote: Any thoughts on what it is worth? -------------------- Very difficult to say sight-unseen, Tom, and you don't say where you're located, as geography does make a difference..... But I'd suggest you monitor sales on eBay, for example, as a way to gauge what people are willing to pay in your area. You may also want to look at classified ads on local British Car Club websites. Certainly body condition is an important aspect of value, as potential B buyers are always told to be aware of rust. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From twobees at sprynet.com Mon Sep 24 14:11:44 2007 From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 16:11:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Oil company - non mg thread Message-ID: <004b01c7fee7$20e92800$0f4d1645@normoffice> Mike says, "Certainly 10% profit is not unreasonable for a company. You local car dealer makes more like 30% on a car without an investment - they borrow to put the cars on their lot." If any auto company is giving dealers margins that will allow them a 30% profit, I'm sure there are NADA members who would like to know what manufacturer or importer that is. I remember the hue & cry from dealers back in the '80s when markups were cut from 17% to 15% & then lower. They have only gotten worse since. As for oil company profits, if they are making so many billions in profit, why are we the people as taxpayers subsidizing the oil companies? Norm From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Sep 24 16:59:51 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 18:59:51 EDT Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/23/2007 10:52:20 AM Mountain Daylight Time, don at napanet.net writes: but maybe nationalized would be one way to deal with their power to screw us all- Oh yeah, give it to the govenment! That's what we need. Then gas stations would be as efficiently run as the Post Office. Gimme a break. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Sep 24 17:03:33 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:03:33 EDT Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/23/2007 12:33:19 PM Mountain Daylight Time, msjeffcock at eastlink.ca writes: For those of you who have debated the issue of government control I would not say its been a hugely successful venture here. The government in Mexico controls the price of all fuel sold there. It goes up a little every month. The price never fluctuates and it never goes down. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Sep 24 19:17:22 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 20:17:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil company - non mg thread In-Reply-To: <004b01c7fee7$20e92800$0f4d1645@normoffice> References: <004b01c7fee7$20e92800$0f4d1645@normoffice> Message-ID: Trucks and SUVs are generally quite large. Here's a website that sites $12-15,000 on Expeditions and Navigators. He has references. That sounds like 25-30% http://www.strike-the-root.com/3/russell/russell17.html On Sep 24, 2007, at 3:11 PM, Norm wrote: > Mike says, > > "Certainly 10% profit is not unreasonable for a company. You local > > car dealer makes more like 30% on a car without an investment - they > > borrow to put the cars on their lot." > > If any auto company is giving dealers margins that will allow them > a 30% > profit, I'm sure there are NADA members who would like to know what > manufacturer or importer that is. I remember the hue & cry from > dealers > back in the '80s when markups were cut from 17% to 15% & then > lower. They > have only gotten worse since. > > As for oil company profits, if they are making so many billions in > profit, > why are we the people as taxpayers subsidizing the oil companies? > > Norm > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 24 19:24:13 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 20:24:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oil company - non mg thread References: <004b01c7fee7$20e92800$0f4d1645@normoffice> Message-ID: <002701c7ff12$c9e8a630$8215a8c0@Garage.local> please let this thread end From eric at erickson.on.net Mon Sep 24 19:42:17 2007 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 11:12:17 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] Oil company - non mg thread In-Reply-To: <002701c7ff12$c9e8a630$8215a8c0@Garage.local> References: <004b01c7fee7$20e92800$0f4d1645@normoffice> <002701c7ff12$c9e8a630$8215a8c0@Garage.local> Message-ID: <3EB5DF64-ED94-4E64-9B31-0EC8478D65F2@erickson.on.net> On 25/09/2007, at 10:54 AM, oliver wrote: > please let this thread end Boil it in oil! From don at napanet.net Mon Sep 24 22:05:20 2007 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:05:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <621255.50262.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <594740.92566.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <621255.50262.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20070924210200.00b136e0@pop.napanet.net> Confiscation won't be necessary. Our economic system is going into the shitter. Except for a few very wealthy people, most Americans will not be able to afford to buy fuel for extravagent toys. At 09:39 AM 09/24/2007, you wrote: >--- Rick Lindsay wrote: > > > Defining what another may haul is about the same as > > defining maximum speed. My 308 will top 150mph but of > > course, I never do that. The point is that when > > external controls enter the system - especially if > > governemental controls - we get useless things like > > 85mph speedometers in Lamborghinis. :-P > > >And remember, when the government comes to confiscate >"unnecessary" vehicles, sports cars will be right up >there with SUVs, snowmobiles and speedboats. Be very >careful how you choose your enemies. > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 09/24/2007 7:09 PM From arundell at ghs.com.au Mon Sep 24 22:05:14 2007 From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 14:05:14 +1000 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20070924210200.00b136e0@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <007c01c7ff29$47a4e780$1b01a8c0@ghs.local> Good Grief!!! What a whinging bunch of Sad Sacks you lot are!!! You guys in the US have absolutely no idea of what its like in the rest of the world do you? Why not take a look at what the rest of the world pays for petrol/fuel/gas before you start moaning.... You guys pay zip compared to what the rest of us have to pay. Eric was right. Enough of this thread already....... Its boring. Murray Arundell -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don Sent: Tuesday, 25 September 2007 2:05 pm To: Mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] new question Confiscation won't be necessary. Our economic system is going into the shitter. Except for a few very wealthy people, most Americans will not be able to afford to buy fuel for extravagent toys. At 09:39 AM 09/24/2007, you wrote: >--- Rick Lindsay wrote: > > > Defining what another may haul is about the same as > > defining maximum speed. My 308 will top 150mph but of > > course, I never do that. The point is that when > > external controls enter the system - especially if > > governemental controls - we get useless things like > > 85mph speedometers in Lamborghinis. :-P > > >And remember, when the government comes to confiscate >"unnecessary" vehicles, sports cars will be right up >there with SUVs, snowmobiles and speedboats. Be very >careful how you choose your enemies. > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 09/24/2007 7:09 PM _______________________________________________ arundell at ghs.com.au Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul at ece.rochester.edu Tue Sep 25 06:23:05 2007 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:23:05 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAEFFB4@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAEFFB4@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: Thanks to all for the info, but, from where to where is the measurement taken? paul >I made up simple diagram to understand this many years ago. > >All you have to remember is 1", because the extra .125" is too hard to >read. > >It is a bit counter intuitive though as the 3 sych 4 spd is longer than >the 3 synch OD box. > > >3 synch 4 spd - Early Banjo short 30" >3 synch OD - Early Banjo Med. 31.125" >3 synch OD - Saulsbury Long 32" >4 synch 4spd/OD - Saulsbury Med. 31.125" > >The rarest driveshaft is the 1966-67 MGB GT with OD. (long) > >The banjo diff. is 1" longer than the Saulsbury > > > > >Kelvin Dodd > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- >> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt >> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 3:52 AM >> To: mgs at autox.team.net; Paul Osborne >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts >> >> It's nowhere near as complicated as the previous poster implied (for >both >> the prop-shaft and anything else). Although some people do opt for a >> complete gearbox, OD and prop-shaft swap others don't. Originally the >> banjo >> non-OD prop-shaft was 30" and the OD 31.125". The Salisbury non-OD >was >> also >> 31.125" (and the same part number as the banjo OD) and the OD 32", but >> only >> on MkI cars. MKII cars to the end of production with the all-synchro >> gearbox all used the 31.125" propshaft regardless of whether they had >OD >> (LH-type), again the same part number as the banjo OD and the MkI tube >> non-OD. >> >> PaulH. -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Sep 25 06:55:30 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 05:55:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20070924210200.00b136e0@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <175587.70458.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Natural controls are always best. painful, but best. --- don wrote: > Confiscation won't be necessary. Our economic > system is going into the > shitter. Except for a few very wealthy people, most > Americans will not be > able to afford to buy fuel for extravagent toys. > > > At 09:39 AM 09/24/2007, you wrote: > > >--- Rick Lindsay wrote: > > > > > Defining what another may haul is about the > same as > > > defining maximum speed. My 308 will top 150mph > but of > > > course, I never do that. The point is that when > > > external controls enter the system - especially > if > > > governemental controls - we get useless things > like > > > 85mph speedometers in Lamborghinis. :-P > > > > > >And remember, when the government comes to > confiscate > >"unnecessary" vehicles, sports cars will be right > up > >there with SUVs, snowmobiles and speedboats. Be > very > >careful how you choose your enemies. > > > > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - > Release Date: 09/24/2007 7:09 PM > _______________________________________________ > rolindsay at yahoo.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Sep 25 07:13:12 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 14:13:12 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAEFFB4@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <01b701c7ff76$aafa9080$0200a8c0@Three> >From the back face of the gearbox/OD flange to the front face of the axle flange. The propshaft itself has a sliding joint at the front so will expand and contract between two extremes, and whilst *any* of the prop-shafts may be able to expand or contract to fit between any of the combinations of the flanges, with an incorrect prop-shaft there may not be enough compression space left on the one hand, or enough expansion space on the other. If you have a prop-shaft and don't know which one it is, then personally I don't know how to tell them apart, unless I had all three on the ground and compared their lengths fully compressed. Which now makes me wonder if the dimensions quoted *are* quoted for fully compressed prop-shafts and therefore easy to determine ... I'll be interested to hear. I have a spare V8 prop-shaft but unfortunately because there was only ever one (which was different to all the 4-cylinder prop-shafts) the Parts catalogue doesn't give a dimension for that like it does for the others, so I can't check it! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Thanks to all for the info, but, from where to where is the measurement > taken? From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Tue Sep 25 07:32:47 2007 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:32:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: <175587.70458.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <6.0.3.0.1.20070924210200.00b136e0@pop.napanet.net> <175587.70458.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.1.20070925092929.02577d60@camden.rutgers.edu> The only problem with natural controls is when the system that sets up the controls (human society at this historical moment) is not operating naturally, then the controls favors one part of the population and not others from the get go. Besides, from a biological point of view, humans redefine nature and then the point of view expressed by Rick (whom I have the greatest respect for) has little meaning. Bill Saidel At 08:55 AM 9/25/2007, Rick Lindsay wrote: >Natural controls are always best. painful, but best. > >--- don wrote: > > > Confiscation won't be necessary. Our economic > > system is going into the > > shitter. Except for a few very wealthy people, most > > Americans will not be > > able to afford to buy fuel for extravagent toys. > > > > > > At 09:39 AM 09/24/2007, you wrote: > > > > >--- Rick Lindsay wrote: > > > > > > > Defining what another may haul is about the > > same as > > > > defining maximum speed. My 308 will top 150mph > > but of > > > > course, I never do that. The point is that when > > > > external controls enter the system - especially > > if > > > > governemental controls - we get useless things > > like > > > > 85mph speedometers in Lamborghinis. :-P > > > > > > > > >And remember, when the government comes to > > confiscate "unnecessary" vehicles, sports cars will be right > > up there with SUVs, snowmobiles and speedboats. Be > > very careful how you choose your enemies. > > > > > >David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com From paul at ece.rochester.edu Tue Sep 25 08:19:44 2007 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:19:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <01b701c7ff76$aafa9080$0200a8c0@Three> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAEFFB4@kb1.mossmotors.com> <01b701c7ff76$aafa9080$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Hi Paul,, your second line is interesting, that would lead you to say that then the dimensions given for sizes don't mean anything since we can not figure out which one goes where.?? paul >From the back face of the gearbox/OD flange to the front face of the >axle flange. The propshaft itself has a sliding joint at the front >so will expand and contract between two extremes, and whilst *any* >of the prop-shafts may be able to expand or contract to fit between >any of the combinations of the flanges, with an incorrect prop-shaft >there may not be enough compression space left on the one hand, or >enough expansion space on the other. > >If you have a prop-shaft and don't know which one it is, then >personally I don't know how to tell them apart, unless I had all >three on the ground and compared their lengths fully compressed. > >Which now makes me wonder if the dimensions quoted *are* quoted for >fully compressed prop-shafts and therefore easy to determine ... >I'll be interested to hear. > >I have a spare V8 prop-shaft but unfortunately because there was >only ever one (which was different to all the 4-cylinder >prop-shafts) the Parts catalogue doesn't give a dimension for that >like it does for the others, so I can't check it! > >PaulH. > >----- Original Message ----- >>Thanks to all for the info, but, from where to where is the >>measurement taken? -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From mgbob at juno.com Tue Sep 25 08:52:59 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:52:59 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts Message-ID: <20070925.105300.3152.7.MGBOB@juno.com> I went poking around in the index of Machinery's Handbook #26 to see if there might be some information bearing on this question of length. While I did not find anything specific to our MG questions, I did discover that there are about 200 pages devoted to shafting, full of illustrations, descriptions, tables, etc. In the section devoted to universal joints on shafts, which explains why there must be two universals on shafts rotating at any speed, there is a brief reference to couplings. It appears that in shafts of about an inch diameter, the depth the shaft must be inserted into the sliding yoke is about two to two.five inches for best service. Since a shaft connecting gearbox to back axle changes in length with every bump and rebound, one would assume that the MG engineers worked to keep that insertion as an average working depth. And so it seems: I just measured the male splines on a shaft recently removed from my '72 GT with OD. Spline length is two inches. Depth of the hole seems about three. For this car the shaft should be the 31.125 inch shaft. Neither he shaft removed from the car nor the new one supplied by Moss a couple of weeks ago measured 31.125 when I did it, but there may be a method for measuring shafts that have sliding joints/couplings. 31.125 may be a nominal size, not an actual size. One suspects that size does matter. Any of the shafts may work under some conditions for a while, but probably best to use the size fitted by the engineers who designed the cars. Bob On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:19:44 -0400 Paul Osborne writes: > Hi Paul,, your second line is interesting, that would lead you to say > that then the dimensions given for sizes don't mean anything since > we can not figure out which one goes where.?? > > paul From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Sep 25 09:01:17 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:01:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <20070925.105300.3152.7.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <790703.45639.qm@web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Most interesting. I wonder why the Italians and Germans use flex disks (guibos) instead of u-joints - or in addition to u-joints? It is also a classic repair for older BMWs to replace the center drive-shaft bearing. Do they use center supports because of lighter shafts? Or are these just quirks of design? rick --- Bob Howard wrote: > I went poking around in the index of Machinery's > Handbook #26 to see > if there might be some information bearing on this > question of length. > While I did not find anything specific to our MG > questions, I did > discover that there are about 200 pages devoted to > shafting, full of > illustrations, descriptions, tables, etc. > In the section devoted to universal joints on > shafts, which explains > why there must be two universals on shafts rotating > at any speed, there > is a brief reference to couplings. It appears that > in shafts of about an > inch diameter, the depth the shaft must be inserted > into the sliding yoke > is about two to two.five inches for best service. > Since a shaft connecting gearbox to back axle > changes in length with > every bump and rebound, one would assume that the MG > engineers worked to > keep that insertion as an average working depth. > And so it seems: I > just measured the male splines on a shaft recently > removed from my '72 GT > with OD. Spline length is two inches. Depth of the > hole seems about > three. > For this car the shaft should be the 31.125 inch > shaft. Neither he > shaft removed from the car nor the new one supplied > by Moss a couple of > weeks ago measured 31.125 when I did it, but there > may be a method for > measuring shafts that have sliding joints/couplings. > 31.125 may be a > nominal size, not an actual size. > One suspects that size does matter. Any of the > shafts may work under > some conditions for a while, but probably best to > use the size fitted by > the engineers who designed the cars. > Bob > > > > On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:19:44 -0400 Paul Osborne > > writes: > > Hi Paul,, your second line is interesting, that > would lead you to say > > that then the dimensions given for sizes don't > mean anything since > > we can not figure out which one goes where.?? > > > > paul > _______________________________________________ > rolindsay at yahoo.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Sep 25 09:01:31 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 16:01:31 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts References: <20070925.100311.3152.3.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <01f501c7ff85$612c3990$0200a8c0@Three> Hmmm, this is getting confusing. I've spoken to one manufacturer who says it is measured prop-shaft flange to prop-shaft flange fully compressed. Then another says to take the prop-shaft off and measure gearbox flange to axle flange, then he will make one to suit. He said he would give it a sliding joint of quote 1 3/4" to 2" and it would run in about the middle of that unquote. Now whilst I would be happy if the maximum compression left 1/8" to go, I certainly wouldn't be happy if the maximum extension only left 1/8" to go! I tried to get a parts supplier to measure one for me but all he would do is quote 31 1/8" for the 4-synch gearbox (correct) but didn't know how it was measured! The more I think about it flange to flange of the prop-shaft fully compressed makes the most sense ... but then when did common sense rule in our cars? We need more examples or a definitive statement of how it is measured, I find it difficult to believe that all of Bob's should be the same but incorrect. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > But as to the measurements: when I removed mine I did not know where > to measure. The substitute from the parts car was same length. Mine is 72 > GT with OD, and the parts car is 73 with OD, so they were either both > correct or both incorrect. The new one is same length as both the old > ones when all are fully compressed, and none was any of the quoted > lengths. There may be a measurement protocol for driveshafts? > Hi Paul,, your second line is interesting, that would lead you to say > that then the dimensions given for sizes don't mean anything since we > can not figure out which one goes where.?? From wsthompson at thicko.com Tue Sep 25 09:40:24 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:40:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] new question In-Reply-To: References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> <000101c7feb4$1919ad30$4b4d0790$@com> Message-ID: <002c01c7ff8a$65409710$2fc1c530$@com> Barrie, (Apparently Barrie also believes in censorship.. Feels like he can have his say without hearing a reply. hence this message to the list.) You don't understand the fact that you presume to tell me what to drive is highly offensive. Additionally, your comments in your last mail, and this , take quite a superior attitude on your part. What do I drive? Where do I live? What are my needs? The fact is. you don't know. You're presumptuous, and, in fact, hypocritical. From the description of your MGB-GT V8, it doesn't appear you are too concerned about your own fuel usage. Apparently your "needs" don't "require" an 1800 cc four cylinder, huh? As far as "swear words".LOL. Who needs to grow up? This isn't church. it's a car list. WST (Despite having 2 homes, a 6000' sq ft shop, and 30+ cars can pretty much promise a much smaller than average "carbon footprint". or whatever it is you do as I say, not as I do energy facists like to call it.) From: Barrie Robinson [mailto:barrie at look.ca] Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:04 AM To: Wm. Severin Thompson; 'David Breneman' Subject: RE: [Mgs] new question Wm, What is it with you? You are so touchy and irritable! Sorry but I just cannot be bothered with people who get fluff up their nose at the slightest thing, neither with people who use swear words as normal vocabulary. As for your 0 for 2 comment - for heaven's sake GROW UP! No need to reply, your address is in my stop filter From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Tue Sep 25 09:56:23 2007 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:56:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Cam Bearings Message-ID: <005101c7ff8c$9fa1bdb0$6501a8c0@XPS400> I purchased a new cam (stock) and gave the machine shop that is machining my MGB engine a set of new cam bearings to install. Now the machinist is telling me I don't need new cam bearings. I just assumed that if I was installing a new cam I should replace the bearings. Should I accept his advise or find a new machine shop to install them? Do I need any special tools to install them at home? Ron Fine From mgbob at juno.com Tue Sep 25 09:27:48 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 11:27:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts Message-ID: <20070925.115816.3152.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Rick, I don't know why they use the flex discs, called Cardan (maybe it's Cardin or Carden?) joints in France and England. They were used on Bugatti 57(replaced one on a friend's car years ago), I remember, and you see a lot of them in inboard engine motorboat applications. Perhaps they can take a certain amount of thrust that the U-joint should not take. I don't know--it's just a guess. A shaft supported by a center bearing can be smaller in outside diameter than an unsupported shaft of same total length, and the center bearing can alter the speed at which it gets a "whip" (critical speed). My Chev S-10 pickup used a two-piece driveshaft connected flange to gearbox, shaft, support bearing, flange,flange, rear shaft, flange, axle. My Toyota Tacoma, slightly larger & heavier but with less weight capacity, uses a one-piece driveshaft with "lubed for life" u-joints. One supposes that, within limits, different designers just do things different ways. Bob On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:01:17 -0700 (PDT) Rick Lindsay writes: > Most interesting. I wonder why the Italians and > Germans use flex disks (guibos) instead of u-joints - > or in addition to u-joints? It is also a classic > repair for older BMWs to replace the center > drive-shaft bearing. Do they use center supports > because of lighter shafts? Or are these just quirks > of design? > > rick From WSpohn4 at aol.com Tue Sep 25 10:09:49 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:09:49 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Cam Bearings Message-ID: In a message dated 9/25/2007 8:56:39 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, RonFineEsq at earthlink.net writes: I purchased a new cam (stock) and gave the machine shop that is machining my MGB engine a set of new cam bearings to install. Now the machinist is telling me I don't need new cam bearings. I just assumed that if I was installing a new cam I should replace the bearings. Should I accept his advise or find a new machine shop to install them? ____________________________________ I assume that they didn't hot tank your block (why not?) or you WOULD need new bearings. If the old bearings are not scored and have the correct clearance, they guy at the shop is correct - no point in changing them. You should thank him - many shops would automatically change them because they could charge you for it, whether they needed it or not. Bill From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 25 10:14:44 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:14:44 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAF01D6@kb1.mossmotors.com> Actually the way we used to measure them was between the welds on the main tube. That way you only need the main tube, not the whole assembly. Short 20.25" Med. 21.25" Long 22.25" The standard way of measuring, as shown below is from flange face to flange face with the sliding joint fully compressed. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Osborne [mailto:paul at ece.rochester.edu] > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:23 AM > To: Dodd, Kelvin > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts > > Thanks to all for the info, but, from where to where is the measurement > taken? > paul > > >I made up simple diagram to understand this many years ago. > > > >All you have to remember is 1", because the extra .125" is too hard to > >read. > > > >It is a bit counter intuitive though as the 3 sych 4 spd is longer than > >the 3 synch OD box. > > > > > >3 synch 4 spd - Early Banjo short 30" > >3 synch OD - Early Banjo Med. 31.125" > >3 synch OD - Saulsbury Long 32" > >4 synch 4spd/OD - Saulsbury Med. 31.125" From rolindsay at yahoo.com Tue Sep 25 10:24:01 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:24:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <20070925.115816.3152.11.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <860581.62268.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Fascinating. A few years ago I restored a 1930 Chevrolet. It was fascinating to see how many strange engineering ideas where employed - ideas today that are NOT considered best practices (e.g. bearing lubrication by oil dripping). In the '30s there was a lot of experimentation. For me, that's part of the restoration fun. My dad, now deceased, used to say that we are loosing technology as fast as we are gaining it. And while that statement is probably not strictly true, his example was quite good. He asked, "Pick any 10 people off the street and ask them to start at first principles and make a lead pencil." Could they do it? I mean, do they even know that pencil lead isn't lead? That it is graphite and clay? What is graphite and where do you find it? Can you make paint for the wooden sleeve? Can you even make the wooden sleeve. How about finding iron ore and smelting the metal for the eraser holder? And where do rubber trees grow anyway? You get the point. That to me, makes older technology as fascinating as new technology! Best, rick --- Bob Howard wrote: > Rick, > I don't know why they use the flex discs, called > Cardan (maybe it's > Cardin or Carden?) joints in France and England. > They were used on > Bugatti 57(replaced one on a friend's car years > ago), I remember, and you > see a lot of them in inboard engine motorboat > applications. Perhaps they > can take a certain amount of thrust that the U-joint > should not take. I > don't know--it's just a guess. > A shaft supported by a center bearing can be > smaller in outside > diameter than an unsupported shaft of same total > length, and the center > bearing can alter the speed at which it gets a > "whip" (critical speed). > My Chev S-10 pickup used a two-piece driveshaft > connected flange to > gearbox, shaft, support bearing, flange,flange, rear > shaft, flange, axle. > My Toyota Tacoma, slightly larger & heavier but > with less weight > capacity, uses a one-piece driveshaft with "lubed > for life" u-joints. > One supposes that, within limits, different > designers just do things > different ways. > Bob > > > On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:01:17 -0700 (PDT) Rick > Lindsay > writes: > > Most interesting. I wonder why the Italians and > > Germans use flex disks (guibos) instead of > u-joints - > > or in addition to u-joints? It is also a classic > > repair for older BMWs to replace the center > > drive-shaft bearing. Do they use center supports > > because of lighter shafts? Or are these just > quirks > > of design? > > > > rick From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 25 10:26:29 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:26:29 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <01f501c7ff85$612c3990$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAF01DB@kb1.mossmotors.com> And there I go adding another dimension. The weld to weld dimension was used because many of the driveshafts in our scrapyard had the sliding yoke missing so one could not measure the full compressed length. When making a driveshaft, the manufacturer will want the static length, with suspension on the ground, then will add some fudge factor to ensure the splines will be safely seated at full suspension extension, yet there is still a bit of clearance at rest. For us new parts people. Measuring the driveshaft with the yoke fully compressed is easy and gives an idea of the rest length between the transmission and diff. flanges. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:02 AM > To: Bob Howard; paul at ece.rochester.edu > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts > > Hmmm, this is getting confusing. I've spoken to one manufacturer who says > it is measured prop-shaft flange to prop-shaft flange fully compressed. > Then another says to take the prop-shaft off and measure gearbox flange to > axle flange, then he will make one to suit. He said he would give it a > sliding joint of quote 1 3/4" to 2" and it would run in about the middle > of > that unquote. Now whilst I would be happy if the maximum compression left > 1/8" to go, I certainly wouldn't be happy if the maximum extension only > left > 1/8" to go! I tried to get a parts supplier to measure one for me but all > he would do is quote 31 1/8" for the 4-synch gearbox (correct) but didn't > know how it was measured! > > The more I think about it flange to flange of the prop-shaft fully > compressed makes the most sense ... but then when did common sense rule in > our cars? We need more examples or a definitive statement of how it is > measured, I find it difficult to believe that all of Bob's should be the > same but incorrect. > > PaulH. From WSpohn4 at aol.com Tue Sep 25 10:35:31 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:35:31 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts Message-ID: In a message dated 9/25/2007 9:27:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: When making a driveshaft, the manufacturer will want the static length, with suspension on the ground, then will add some fudge factor to ensure the splines will be safely seated at full suspension extension, yet there is still a bit of clearance at rest. ____________________________________ Another caveat, Kelvin. In some cars, especially if you have been playing around with ride height, the distance between flanges with the suspension at normal ride height will NOT be the shortest, i.e. fully compressed length. I've seen a couple of V-8 cars come to grief over that, with the shaft trying to be shorter than it can when the suspension bumped, which tried to push the diff and trans apart maybe a half inch. What you really would like to know is the shortest distance between the two flanges regardless of suspension position. Bill From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Sep 25 10:42:48 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:42:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: FWIW, I worked on an off road racing team for a while many moons ago. When building a car, we would put the suspension in full bump and measure the distance, and then in full rebound and measure the distance. Then we would go talk to the drive shaft guy, and he would build us a shaft that worked. Your shaft can't bottom out, and it can't come disengaged or you will have issues. If I was doing a swap of some sort, I would follow the same procedure to ensure that my drive shaft was the way Goldylocks preferred, just right. Rick On 9/25/07, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 9/25/2007 9:27:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > doddk at mossmotors.com writes: > > When making a driveshaft, the manufacturer will want the static length, > with suspension on the ground, then will add some fudge factor to ensure > the splines will be safely seated at full suspension extension, yet > there is still a bit of clearance at rest. > > ____________________________________ > > Another caveat, Kelvin. > > In some cars, especially if you have been playing around with ride > height, > the distance between flanges with the suspension at normal ride height > will > NOT be the shortest, i.e. fully compressed length. > > I've seen a couple of V-8 cars come to grief over that, with the shaft > trying to be shorter than it can when the suspension bumped, which tried > to push > the diff and trans apart maybe a half inch. > > What you really would like to know is the shortest distance between the > two > flanges regardless of suspension position. > > Bill > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From mgbob at juno.com Tue Sep 25 10:35:37 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:35:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Cam Bearings Message-ID: <20070925.124108.3152.16.MGBOB@juno.com> Ron, Cam bearings don't wear at the rate mains and connecting rod bearings wear. One reason is that the cam rotates at a constant speed, and it's half the RPM of the crankshaft. Another is that there is comparatively more bearing surface on the cam bearings, so there is less pressure per square inch than on the other bearings. Did you have the shop clean the block? Most of the cleaning processes will dissolve the cam bearings. Some do not, but one would want to check that they were not damaged by the cleaning chemistry. If the shop says the bearings are OK, though, and you selected the shop because of good experiences by others and their recommendations, it would seem that you could safely trust his judgment on this. You can remove old and install new at home. It's careful work, and requires a tool not found in most home shops, but it's not a complicated job. Check Section A.17 in the manual. That tool pulls the new bearings into place, each adapter being a precise fit for the bearing it is pulling. The manual talks of reaming. This Spring, when I was rebuilding an MGB engine, there were two types of cam bearing available. One is made of a piece of metal wrapped round and keyed to itself, the other was one-piece and round. The keyed type required reaming; the one-piece did not require reaming. If you had access to a lathe, you could make your own special tool 18G 124A with threaded rod and nuts if you could make the adapters. WIth it you could easily pull out the old bearings and pull in the new ones. Would I do it again myself? Probably not. This spring we did it in the shop of a friend who has years and years of experience with engines. Had he not offered, I would have had the shop that did boring, balancing, etc, press them in for me. Bob On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:56:23 -0700 "Ron Fine" writes: > I purchased a new cam (stock) and gave the machine shop that is > machining my > MGB engine a set of new cam bearings to install. Now the machinist > is telling > me I don't need new cam bearings. I just assumed that if I was > installing a > new cam I should replace the bearings. Should I accept his advise > or find a > new machine shop to install them? Do I need any special tools to > install them > at home? > Ron Fine From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Sep 25 10:50:01 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:50:01 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Cam Bearings In-Reply-To: <005101c7ff8c$9fa1bdb0$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CAF01ED@kb1.mossmotors.com> What Bill said. If the block wasn't cleaned in a corrosive solution, the bearings will usually be ok. At a first rebuild, I normally leave them alone. Do a visual inspection to make sure they were not damaged when the cam was removed. It's not a job I would bother doing at home. Most cam bearings for the car need to be sized after installation. Gone are the days when you could get AE bearings which were pre-sized and usually didn't need additional work. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:56 AM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Cam Bearings > > I purchased a new cam (stock) and gave the machine shop that is machining > my > MGB engine a set of new cam bearings to install. Now the machinist is > telling > me I don't need new cam bearings. I just assumed that if I was installing > a > new cam I should replace the bearings. Should I accept his advise or find > a > new machine shop to install them? Do I need any special tools to install > them > at home? > Ron Fine From Aeseeyou at aol.com Tue Sep 25 10:53:22 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:53:22 EDT Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: As far as "swear words".LOL. Who needs to grow up? This isn't church. it's a car list. WST Hey...Time to take it elsewhere. WST you wrote "it's a car list" You're absolutely right.. Time for the moderator, please. -=Safety-Fast! Albert Escalante CCBCC-California ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 25 10:40:12 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:40:12 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Cam Bearings In-Reply-To: <005101c7ff8c$9fa1bdb0$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: He may well be correct, if you are replacing the cam for reasons other than wear. The reason cam bearings are habitually replaced during an engine rebuild is not because they are usually worn out, but because they don't survive the "hot tank" cleaning process. My wife used to have a Honda that didn't even have cam bearings -- the cam journals ran directly on the aluminum cylinder head casting. You should be glad to save the expense and the bother -- fitting cam bearings is a bit of a chore (consider where they are located). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/25/07 8:56 AM, Ron Fine at RonFineEsq at earthlink.net wrote: > I purchased a new cam (stock) and gave the machine shop that is machining my > MGB engine a set of new cam bearings to install. Now the machinist is telling > me I don't need new cam bearings. I just assumed that if I was installing a > new cam I should replace the bearings. Should I accept his advise or find a > new machine shop to install them? Do I need any special tools to install them > at home? > Ron Fine From WSpohn4 at aol.com Tue Sep 25 11:14:27 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 13:14:27 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Cam Bearings Message-ID: In a message dated 9/25/2007 10:10:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: My wife used to have a Honda that didn't even have cam bearings -- the cam journals ran directly on the aluminum cylinder head casting. You should be glad to save the expense and the bother -- fitting cam bearings is a bit of a chore (consider where they are located). ____________________________________ Many engines do not use cam bearings. The early Triumph TR-2 did not, nor does my Lamborghini V-12. Personally I would rather have a surface I could replace if scratched than a journal that I'd have to ream - in the case of an OHC with caps - on the old TR you were right out of luck if the block ever wore too a larger diameter so clearance was excessive. Doubt that happened much, mind you. Bill From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 25 05:25:57 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 06:25:57 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 38 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ahhh the post modern despair pops into the group. How can we blame this on the "prince of darkness" ? The true state of the MG is in disrepair, not repair. Our notions of MGs actually are only cultural. If there are no true princes and no true darkness then we have no true problem with Lucas -- it is therefore a cultural construct that MGs are in a state of disrepair. But don't despair, with a cell phone we can call for a tow. On Sep 25, 2007, at 11:15 AM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:32:47 -0400 > From: Bill Saidel > Subject: Re: [Mgs] new question > > > The only problem with natural controls is when the system that sets > up the controls (human society at this historical moment) is not > operating naturally, then the controls favors one part of the > population and not others from the get go. > > Besides, from a biological point of view, humans redefine nature and > then the point of view expressed by Rick (whom I have the greatest > respect for) has little meaning. > > Bill Saidel From Wilkmanracing at aol.com Tue Sep 25 12:26:56 2007 From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 14:26:56 EDT Subject: [Mgs] New Question (Appropriate Language) Message-ID: There is a difference between having a conversation with a known friend and talking to a group. While a friend might not be offended by foul language, any number of people in a group may be very offended. I don't, as a rule, use foul language, but I'm especially careful to chose my words with care when addressing a classroom, meeting, or other group assembly. An internet list is essentially the same as a group assembly and I believe we should be careful about how we express ourselves when addressing this group. Bill Wilkman ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From RampantNM at aol.com Tue Sep 25 14:37:18 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 16:37:18 EDT Subject: [Mgs] new question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/24/2007 7:34:15 AM Mountain Daylight Time, barrie at look.ca writes: .....and while you are at it get rid of that stupid SUV, 4X4, or pick-up.....and don' t give that old malarkey "we need the space" because you don't Ok, you show me how to get my wife, two grandkids, four Chow-Chows, food, clothes, and tools, along with sking eqipment, five sheets of OSB and four sheets of drywall up an unpaved road, with possibly 18 inches of snow, using a flipping Hybrid...oh, I can't spend any money on a new one either as the 4x4 Tahoe or F150 are paid for. Just my old malarkey...I'm sure a Prius would do this with no problem.... Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From glenel at videotron.ca Tue Sep 25 15:20:18 2007 From: glenel at videotron.ca (Glen) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 17:20:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] New Question (Appropriate Language) References: Message-ID: <003a01c7ffb9$dfa78980$04000100@IBM23B634F21A7> I seldom reply to anything on the list; I've been flamed more than once and my philosopy is - "burn me once shame on you; burn me twice, shame on me!" Suffice it to say that in considering a reply on any list and on any subject, I have to ask myself, "Would Ray Gibbons approve?' Glen Eldridge Pierrefonds, Quibec (former)'52 TD and '64 Midget Mk. 1 owner ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] New Question (Appropriate Language) > There is a difference between having a conversation with a known friend > and > talking to a group. While a friend might not be offended by foul > language, > any number of people in a group may be very offended. I don't, as a rule, > use > foul language, but I'm especially careful to chose my words with care when > addressing a classroom, meeting, or other group assembly. An internet > list is > essentially the same as a group assembly and I believe we should be > careful > about how we express ourselves when addressing this group. > > Bill Wilkman > > > > ************************************** See what's new at > http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > glenel at videotron.ca > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: > 9/24/2007 7:09 PM From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Tue Sep 25 22:16:58 2007 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 21:16:58 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Cam bearings Message-ID: <006e01c7fff4$15054b00$6501a8c0@XPS400> Thanks to everyone for the advise today about replacing (or not) the cam bearings in my MGB engine. With the reassurance of the list that it was not always necessary to replace the bearings, I retrieved my engine this afternoon. The machinists did not use corrosive solution to clean the block so the bearings were not damaged. He said the bearings were in good shape and that he measured them to be sure they would fit the new cam. So, the engine block is back home and I am looking forward to starting the rebuild this weekend. This is only my second engine rebuild so I am still learning. I couldn't do it without the help of this list. Ron Fine 61BN7 66 MGB From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Sep 26 02:41:19 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 09:41:19 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts References: <860581.62268.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00f001c8001a$50fa9bd0$0200a8c0@Three> Amen to that. In my youth apprenticeship and education was all about where technology came from, and understanding 'obsolete' technologies before you moved on to current, as well as 'classrooms' with lathes, forges, carpentry tools etc. It was a bit frustrating to spend several weeks learning a mathematical technique only to then be told "but we don't do it that way any more" but many of the things I learnt then have stayed with me. Sadly, today's youth aren't taught how anything works, much less how to make it. But the comments about oil dripping and Bugatti prompt me to mention that at one time Bugatti used a bleed off the exhaust to pressurise the fuel tank as an alternative to a hand pump. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > That to me, makes older technology as fascinating as > new technology! From rolindsay at yahoo.com Wed Sep 26 09:17:03 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:17:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] door ajar switch Message-ID: <88636.67555.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Gang, I need to replace the door ajar switch on my '70 MGB. I can use either the isolated or grounding type switch. Do you know of an aftermarket vendor? rick From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Sep 26 09:58:45 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 16:58:45 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] door ajar switch References: <88636.67555.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <008201c80057$6fd00e40$0200a8c0@Three> The grounding type is used for the courtesy lights, the isolated type for the 'key in' warning buzzer. You wouldn't be able to use the 'other' type without other wiring changes at least. The correct type weren't available when I needed a pair some years ago, and the available alternative has a slightly larger diameter boss behind the mounting plate so the hole in the A-post needs filing out a little. Other than that the alternatives were slightly more robust as the actual contact surfaces were shrouded a bit and not fully exposed as on the original type. Moss are showing the grounded type as 131-611. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Hey Gang, I need to replace the door ajar switch on my > '70 MGB. I can use either the isolated or grounding > type switch. Do you know of an aftermarket vendor? From rocknatural at gmail.com Wed Sep 26 10:45:34 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 11:45:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts In-Reply-To: <00f001c8001a$50fa9bd0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <860581.62268.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <00f001c8001a$50fa9bd0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <46FA8CAE.7040408@gmail.com> Paul Hunt wrote: > Amen to that. In my youth apprenticeship and education was all about where > technology came from, and understanding 'obsolete' technologies before you > moved on to current, as well as 'classrooms' with lathes, forges, carpentry > tools etc. It was a bit frustrating to spend several weeks learning a > mathematical technique only to then be told "but we don't do it that way any > more" but many of the things I learnt then have stayed with me. Sadly, > today's youth aren't taught how anything works, much less how to make it. > But the comments about oil dripping and Bugatti prompt me to mention that at > one time Bugatti used a bleed off the exhaust to pressurise the fuel tank as > an alternative to a hand pump. A local company hired the Victor TF yesterday for a TV Commercial. The shoot was in a hangar for a corporate jet. They had two Mercedes, a late 60's Corvette, a Lexus hardtop and my Victor. Guess which car had a little black oil puddle underneath? :) -The Roxter -- From peter at nosimport.com Wed Sep 26 11:54:28 2007 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:54:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SCCA run-offs Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070926124847.035dab78@mailbag.com> Any of you lot from Northern IL, or WI going to the run-offs that would be willing to transport 4 tires back this way? Please reply to me or Ron Soave soavero at yahoo.com Thank you. Peter C. From jmc987 at verizon.net Wed Sep 26 19:16:18 2007 From: jmc987 at verizon.net (joseph cianciotti) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 21:16:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question Message-ID: I'm going to order a remanufactured brake caliper from Moss. (Their sale ends Friday.) Do I need to order anything else for a proper installation? Thanks in advance for your advice. Joseph 67 MGB From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 26 21:16:14 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 20:16:14 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I hope you are going to order two. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/26/07 6:16 PM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: > I'm going to order a remanufactured brake caliper from Moss. (Their > sale ends Friday.) Do I need to order anything else for a proper > installation? Thanks in advance for your advice. > > Joseph > 67 MGB From r.gosling at penspen.com Thu Sep 27 01:53:05 2007 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 08:53:05 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF715@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> Might as well replace the flex-hoses while you are at it, unless you've already done that recently. And the pads, if they are starting to get thin. Check the thickness and condition of the discs as well. The bolts holding the caliper on go over a tab washer - sort of dog-bone shaped thing that has a washer at each end joined by a strip in the middle, with tabs that fold up against the flats of the bolt. When they are old the tabs tend to snap off rather than bend, so get replacements for these. Part no BTC114. Normally I advocate using new bolts whenever you take an old one out, but the ones holding the caliper on are pretty big sturdy ones, and they receive an adequate covering of greasy muck to prevent them rusting, so probably not necessary here. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Sep 27 01:48:51 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 08:48:51 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question References: Message-ID: <00c401c800db$dc3e3000$0200a8c0@Three> The caliper is one of those curiosities where the bolts don't have lock-tabs or other positive locking mechanism that would normally be replaced at the same time, whereas the steering arm *does* have lock-tabs. Unless the hoses are almost new I'd replace those, ditto pads (which these days don't seem to come with retaining springs and split pins like days of yore). And what condition are the discs in? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I'm going to order a remanufactured brake caliper from Moss. (Their > sale ends Friday.) Do I need to order anything else for a proper > installation? From r.gosling at penspen.com Thu Sep 27 02:02:23 2007 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:02:23 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF716@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> Paul, You read my thoughts about 5 minutes behind me! But there are lock tab washers for the brake caliper - part no BTC114, item 13 on this page: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=24 Richard & Sammy ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Sep 27 02:41:01 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:41:01 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF716@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> Message-ID: <00d001c800e2$29b425a0$0200a8c0@Three> Indeed. Looks like I got it the wrong way round as it is the steering arms that don't have lock tabs, and equally strange. Thanks for the correction. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... But there are lock tab washers for the brake caliper - part no BTC114, item 13 on this page: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=24 From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Sep 27 03:13:19 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 10:13:19 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts References: <20070925.115816.3152.13.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <00fe01c800e6$c850dd80$0200a8c0@Three> I've been in contact with the original designer of the MGB gearbox, OD, propshaft and rear axle who I just happened to bump into in Belgium earlier this year and kept in touch with. He has sent me some specification drawings and data that includes all the MGB variants. That's the good news. The bad news is that although on the drawing the overall flange to flange measurement is given the code of FFC, that isn't listed in the table although the tube lengths, tube diameters and flange diameters are. One thing to note is that whatever the measurement turns out to be, it is measured from the inner portion of the flange that stands proud of the part the bolts go through, i.e. the overall length, and not from the outer ring of the flanges that contact the gearbox/axle flanges. The tube lengths are given as: Banjo 4-speed 20 9/32" Banjo OD 21 17/32" Tube 3-synch 4-speed 21 17/32" Tube 3-synch OD 22 9/32" Tube 4-sync 4-speed and OD 21 17/32" FWIW tube diameters are all 2", and flange diameters 3 7/16". That at least should help Bob with his three prop-shafts, and I'm waiting to see if my source has the missing dimension elsewhere. Also FWIW Midget MkII 64/66 is given as 23 1/2", 1 3/4" and 3 7/16" respectively. Midget 66 on as 23 1/2", 1 3/4", 3 7/16". Midget 1500 74 on as 20.06", 1.75", 3.44" MGC as 19 1/4", 2", 3 13/16". PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Thanks to this line of inquiry, my favorite steel tape measure is now > foul and greasy. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 27 14:18:27 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 13:18:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question In-Reply-To: <208B9007-4A7C-405D-A64E-2BD7F733C0BA@verizon.net> Message-ID: No, I meant both sides of the car. I think you will find that all written references to brake repair recommend replacing components on a per-axle basis. It can be dangerous to have components with varying degrees of effectiveness on the right and left sides. Everyone knows this goes for replacing pads, shoes, drums and rotors, and I would certainly apply it to wheel cylinders and calipers. Not to mention the fact that if one caliper was sufficiently messed-up to warrant replacement, the condition of the other is certainly questionable, even if it has yet to manifest symptoms. Why go to the trouble of bleeding the brakes again in a few weeks, or months? It's false economy, even if you don't accept my contention that it's potentially dangerous. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/27/07 11:10 AM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: > I assume that you mean both sides of a single unit. I think that's > the only way they sell them. > > Joseph > 67 MGB Roadster > > > On Sep 27, 2007, at 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 20:16:14 -0700 >> From: Max Heim >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Final brake caliper question >> To: MG List >> Message-ID: >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" >> >> I hope you are going to order two. >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> on 9/26/07 6:16 PM, joseph cianciotti at jmc987 at verizon.net wrote: >> >>> I'm going to order a remanufactured brake caliper from Moss. (Their >>> sale ends Friday.) Do I need to order anything else for a proper >>> installation? Thanks in advance for your advice. >>> >>> Joseph >>> 67 MGB From doddk at mossmotors.com Thu Sep 27 15:39:45 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 14:39:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Need help with threads Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBD47C@kb1.mossmotors.com> Ok, looking for help from the whiz kidz on the list. I've been trying, with no success to figure out what the thread design is for the early MGB 1962-67 toggle switches and the MGA pull type switches. It looks like it could be British Standard Brass, but the major diameter doesn't seem correct. Any body out there have the information? Thanks Kelvin Dodd From guinness at stclegal.com Fri Sep 28 07:29:24 2007 From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 08:29:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA Ignition switch Message-ID: <46FD01B4.10206@stclegal.com> In my ongoing war with the electrical gremlins, I am replacing my ignition switch on my MGA 1600. The engine would shut down as I was driving, but moving the key to the right would bring it back to life. The new switch assemble came in two pieces: the key tumbler and the switch. Moss #169-108. I put the tumbler in the switch in the only way it seemed to want to go in. But the key will not turn the tumbler within the switch. Did I put it in wrong (in other words, what is the correct way to install the tumbler into the switch)? How do you get the tumbler out of the switch? Thanks in advance. -- Robert Guinness From spritenut at comcast.net Mon Sep 24 19:21:45 2007 From: spritenut at comcast.net (Frank Clarici) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:21:45 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB-GT for sale Message-ID: <46F862A9.4030507@comcast.net> A guy stopped over tonight trying to sell me his MGBGT. Not my kind of car. 1972 MGB-GT It runs, needs some help and comes with most of an MG roadster as a parts car. (he said this) Spare engine, tranny and suspension. He wants $1200 for it. I do NOT have his email nor do I know this guy but if you are interested, call him 732-473-9682 I did not personally look at the car but I can since it's only a few miles away from me if anyone is serious about it. The car is in Beachwood, NJ -- Frank Clarici Toms River, NJ From blair at ifd.mv.com Sun Sep 30 12:41:12 2007 From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:41:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 78 B fires right up and dies References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> Message-ID: <004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma> List, I am having another (probably simple) problem... Turn the key, the motor fires right up. Return the key from start to regular, engine dies. If I hold the key in the start position, the motor will run (and so does the starter motor)... trust me I know the difference between really running and just kinda running along with the starter engaged... I don't have a schematic handy and I don't have a second person to turn the key while I check voltages... Are there two different contacts on the starter switch, one on the regular on position and another on the start position... could I just have dirty contacts or does this seem like something else? Blair 78 B 53 TD From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 30 12:52:09 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 13:52:09 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 78 B fires right up and dies References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> <004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma> Message-ID: <01f301c80393$01685630$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blair J. Weiss" To: Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 1:41 PM Subject: [Mgs] 78 B fires right up and dies List, I am having another (probably simple) problem... Turn the key, the motor fires right up. Return the key from start to regular, engine dies. If I hold the key in the start position, the motor will run (and so does the starter motor)... trust me I know the difference between really running and just kinda running along with the starter engaged... I don't have a schematic handy and I don't have a second person to turn the key while I check voltages... Are there two different contacts on the starter switch, one on the regular on position and another on the start position... could I just have dirty contacts or does this seem like something else? Blair 78 B 53 TD _______________________________________________ Did you remember to genuflect in the direction of GB wherein the MG Gods lie? Sorry. Had a few drinks while (whilst?) watching the Packer game. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From blair at ifd.mv.com Sun Sep 30 13:18:32 2007 From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 15:18:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 78 B fires right up and dies References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> <004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma> Message-ID: <004b01c80396$b587e920$97637dc7@Terrafirma> Calling off the dogs... I found my Haynes manual, checked the schematic... led me to the ignition relay, found a loose spade connector. Car starts fine... Thanks everyone... including Larry Blair ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blair J. Weiss" To: Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:41 PM Subject: [Mgs] 78 B fires right up and dies > List, > I am having another (probably simple) problem... > > Turn the key, the motor fires right up. Return the key from start to > regular, engine dies. If I hold the key in the start position, the motor > will run (and so does the starter motor)... trust me I know the difference > between really running and just kinda running along with the starter > engaged... > > I don't have a schematic handy and I don't have a second person to turn > the > key while I check voltages... Are there two different contacts on the > starter switch, one on the regular on position and another on the start > position... could I just have dirty contacts or does this seem like > something else? > > Blair > 78 B > 53 TD > _______________________________________________ > blair at ifd.mv.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From mghirsch at netzero.net Sun Sep 30 15:06:42 2007 From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 16:06:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 78 B fires right up and dies Message-ID: <000e01c803a5$cdaaa920$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25> I believe that your car has a ballast resistor. IIRC, this is in line someplace. Your description of the problem sounds like the ballast resistor went bad. Maynard From mvrose at charter.net Sun Sep 30 18:00:37 2007 From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:00:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Chrome Bumper MGB Wanted Message-ID: <001901c803be$198279f0$aa43ba44@Primary> I just completed a ground up restoration of a 1980 MGB and got the British car bug. I am looking for a chrome bumper MGB or TR 6. Do not want to do a full blown restoration so would like one that just needs TLC,interior work,etc. If anyone knows of a chrome bumper MGB or TR 6 for sale, please let me. I live in Washington state but would have no problem transporting one up here. Merl Rosenthal 1980 MGB From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk Sun Sep 30 20:13:42 2007 From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:13:42 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Chrome Bumper MGB Wanted References: <001901c803be$198279f0$aa43ba44@Primary> Message-ID: <00a201c803d0$b0ae1a20$6501a8c0@RicksPC> There are several for sale on the NAMGBR website http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr Rick Webmaster ----- Original Message ----- From: "Valda and Merl Rosenthal" To: "MG List" Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 20:00 Subject: [Mgs] Chrome Bumper MGB Wanted >I just completed a ground up restoration of a 1980 MGB and got the British >car > bug. I am looking for a chrome bumper MGB or TR 6. Do not want to do a > full > blown restoration so would like one that just needs TLC,interior work,etc. > If > anyone knows of a chrome bumper MGB or TR 6 for sale, please let me. I > live > in Washington state but would have no problem transporting one up here. > > > Merl Rosenthal 1980 MGB