From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 1 01:54:50 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 08:54:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB O/D Driveshafts References: <20070928.111510.3844.0.MGBOB@juno.com> Message-ID: <015601c80402$5449af60$0200a8c0@Three> A bit more information came my way the other day. A friend was at my house (prior to a walking weekend in Snowdonia, MG content - we went in the V8) who happened to be an apprentice at Hardy Spicer many years ago. He spotted the drawings on my desk and said he used to draw them up. Then when he looked closer he said he didn't do those as they were wrong - the FFC dimension (Flange to Flange Closed) is measured between the machined faces of the flanges that the bolts go through i.e. round the outer edge, and not the fractionally longer dimension that you'd get measuring between the raised portion in the centre of the flanges which is what these drawings indicate. PaulH. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 1 06:22:49 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 08:22:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB Wiring Diagram References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com><004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma> <01f301c80393$01685630$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <004001c80425$c8d3bd80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Listers, The two loose leaf factory MGB shop manuals that I have contain wiring diagrams only to 1972. What's the best source of a correct W/D for a '77? Is there an enlarged version available? Thanks, Ed Woods From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 1 06:30:31 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 07:30:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB Wiring Diagram References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com><004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma><01f301c80393$01685630$6401a8c0@Larry> <004001c80425$c8d3bd80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <02db01c80426$dcdd5420$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:22 AM Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB Wiring Diagram Listers, The two loose leaf factory MGB shop manuals that I have contain wiring diagrams only to 1972. What's the best source of a correct W/D for a '77? Is there an enlarged version available? Thanks, Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Ed, Advance Auto Wire has drawings for all MGB's. http://advanceautowire.com/mgb.pdf Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Mon Oct 1 06:58:02 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 05:58:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB Wiring Diagram In-Reply-To: <004001c80425$c8d3bd80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <747421.81637.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ed Woods wrote: Listers, The two loose leaf factory MGB shop manuals that I have contain wiring diagrams only to 1972. What's the best source of a correct W/D for a '77? Is there an enlarged version available? ----------------- Ed, there is a guy that sells nicely laminated, color 11" by 17" versions of wiring diagrams on eBay. He does business as 'Prospero's Garage' or something like that. maybe do a Google search for him. I have one for both my '65 and '76. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Oct 1 07:44:01 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 08:44:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB Wiring Diagram In-Reply-To: <004001c80425$c8d3bd80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com><004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma> <01f301c80393$01685630$6401a8c0@Larry> <004001c80425$c8d3bd80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <4700F9A1.9030006@gmail.com> Prospero's Garage on eBay has a nice laminated 11x17 one available. Ed Woods wrote: > Listers, > > The two loose leaf factory MGB shop manuals that I have contain wiring > diagrams only to 1972. What's the best source of a correct W/D for a '77? > > Is there an enlarged version available? From mgbob at juno.com Mon Oct 1 07:45:26 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:45:26 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB Wiring Diagram Message-ID: <20071001.094545.3572.5.MGBOB@juno.com> Ed, The workshop manual for rubber bumper cars, maroon cover, has diagrams for the later cars. Several of us were helping a club member with some electrical questions recently. He had a diagram from Advanced, and the manual. While Advanced was certainly easier to read, we found that there were differences in details. MG was making many changes at this time. Haynes and perhaps others too have diagrams for 'all' models that do not necessarily correspond completely to each car. If you can find a club member who has the maroon manual, you might borrow, copy, enlarge and laminate the pages. Bob On Mon, 1 Oct 2007 08:22:49 -0400 "Ed Woods" writes: > Listers, > > The two loose leaf factory MGB shop manuals that I have contain > wiring > diagrams only to 1972. What's the best source of a correct W/D for a > '77? > > Is there an enlarged version available? > > Thanks, > > Ed Woods From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 1 07:58:06 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:58:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 77 MGB Wiring Diagram References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com><004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma><01f301c80393$01685630$6401a8c0@Larry> <004001c80425$c8d3bd80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <02db01c80426$dcdd5420$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <002101c80433$18385f90$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Thank you all for your replies. I have a pdf file now and leads to other versions. Ed From rocknatural at gmail.com Mon Oct 1 10:17:04 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 11:17:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 78 B fires right up and dies In-Reply-To: <004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma> References: <126556.55381.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000001c7feb0$29f304c0$7dd90e40$@com> <004001c80391$7a93d8b0$97637dc7@Terrafirma> Message-ID: <47011D80.6050209@gmail.com> Blair J. Weiss wrote: > List, > I am having another (probably simple) problem... > > Turn the key, the motor fires right up. Return the key from start to > regular, engine dies. If I hold the key in the start position, the motor > will run (and so does the starter motor)... trust me I know the difference > between really running and just kinda running along with the starter > engaged... > > I don't have a schematic handy and I don't have a second person to turn the > key while I check voltages... Are there two different contacts on the > starter switch, one on the regular on position and another on the start > position... could I just have dirty contacts or does this seem like > something else? I'm guessing you have a 9 volt coil. This was an design that was supposed to make starting easier, since it provided full coil voltage while starting, but put a resistor in the ignition circuit when running. I'm guessing the resistor has burned out or the connections to it have gone open, so the straight circuit provides voltage to the ignition when starting, but provides none when running. Some BMC cars use an actual resistor, but others use a length of resistor wire, usually pink. You can use a wire with alligator clips to bypass the resistor, but it will provide too much voltage to the ignition circuit and might possibly eventually damage the coil. I prefer to use a 12 volt coil and bypass the resistor, since even though the drain from the starter will draw down the ignition voltage to around 9 volts, if everything is in good shape, it will start just fine. -The Roxter -- From mg.carma at verizon.net Tue Oct 2 06:48:03 2007 From: mg.carma at verizon.net (Kevin Richards) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 08:48:03 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Bob Carbone on Today show Message-ID: <1586CE51-2201-4547-A86A-8E0C914EA2D5@verizon.net> Looks like a MG guy made it to the Today show.....has a red MGA and a Green TD. His cars were in the background while they were doing a story on "how not to buy a flooded car"... pretty cool K From schultejim at msn.com Tue Oct 2 06:56:20 2007 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 08:56:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] FW: Lights Message-ID: A friend is having these problems. Any comments from the electric guru's Gents: My high beams on the "B" work but not the low beams on either >side. I have a fog and driving light. The driving light activates with >the high beam. Fuse? Thanks. Glenn Jim Schulte Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D. Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club Co-Coordinator MG 2008 Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 2 07:25:37 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 14:25:37 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] FW: Lights References: Message-ID: <002401c804f9$02d747d0$0200a8c0@Three> No fuses in factory wiring. Sounds like either the dip-switch not working on the dipped side, or the blue/red wire open-circuit between the dip-switch and the left-hand headlamp. Or possibly both dipped filaments failed, or both dipped beam wires in the headlamp tails failed. But if it was a sudden failure both sides then these last two are unlikely. An open-circuit could happen in various places according to the year of the car and where dip-switch is, but one place common to all cars is the 4-way bullet connector by the right-hand headlight. If the wire coming in is corroded or has pulled out it will affect both sides. But if the fog-light is wired to be available, via its own switch, when the dipped beams are on, and that isn't working either, then it is probably the dip-switch itself or connector by it. Early cars had bullet connectors for the foot-operated dip-switch, don't know where these are. For cars with the column operated dip-switch there is a multi-way plug and socket by the steering column, and it is possible for a pin to get partially pushed out in these. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Gents: My high beams on the "B" work but not the low beams on either >>side. I have a fog and driving light. The driving light activates with >>the high beam. Fuse? From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu Tue Oct 2 11:30:17 2007 From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 13:30:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Bentley's electrical connection Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.1.20071002131600.02587c50@camden.rutgers.edu> I know Lucas has a bad name. Not sure if it is still warranted but here is a pseudoelectrical problem not of Lucas's making. I just bought a new Bentley's 62-74, having acquired a '74 CBB recently. Am having starter problems so I went to the wiring diagram (p. 311). All these interesting diagrams but the newest (#13) is listed as 1971-72. Was there no circuit change between '71 and '74 or has the '74 circuit diagram disappeared into the ether? Bill Saidel '74 B '76 (2/3rds of a B) BMCSNJ From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Oct 2 21:16:08 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 23:16:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft References: <7.0.1.0.1.20071002131600.02587c50@camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <004b01c8056b$be3ff040$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, Well, I'm going to resurrect this subject again. I finally got around to removing this Weber from a '77 MGB. This particular carb has an electrically operated choke. How does it work? It appears to be connected to a +12V source, not to a transducer of any kind. How does it compensate for engine temperature? Ed Woods From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Oct 2 22:32:31 2007 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 23:32:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft In-Reply-To: <004b01c8056b$be3ff040$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <7.0.1.0.1.20071002131600.02587c50@camden.rutgers.edu> <004b01c8056b$be3ff040$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <47031B5F.9040900@ktc.com> It's a bimetallic wound strip with a current run through it. It's strictly a matter of time on the opening delay. The hotter it is under the hood to begin with, the less time it takes to open. CR Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > Well, I'm going to resurrect this subject again. I finally got around to > removing this Weber from a '77 MGB. > > This particular carb has an electrically operated choke. How does it work? > It appears to be connected to a +12V source, not to a transducer of any > kind. How does it compensate for engine temperature? > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > ccrobins at ktc.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Oct 3 01:57:19 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 08:57:19 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Bentley's electrical connection References: <7.0.1.0.1.20071002131600.02587c50@camden.rutgers.edu> Message-ID: <005701c80593$f69fd360$0200a8c0@Three> I was under the impression that the Bentleys series were American reprints of the Leyland (or whatever) originals. My 1976 issue of the Leyland Workshop Manual has 11 pages for UK cars pretty-well annually up to 1977 and for North American variations 8 pages up to 73-74. And therein seems to lie the problem - for some reason a specific manual year seems to have the North American diagrams lagging behind. For circuit diagrams you really need to get the latest version of the manual, which if like the Leyland contains all the information for the previous years, plus major mechanical differences. However some small mechanical differences from one year to another may only appear as changed information in that years manual, and not as a variation, i.e. the earlier version is 'lost' in the later manuals. But having said that I've never had a problem using my 76 manual for my 73 car. However the problem with buying the latest Bentley package to get the latest diagrams is that you will then end up with the wrong version of the drivers handbook etc. that are part of the package. A case for buying the manual and handbook separately. The upshot is that my 76 Leyland book has 73/74 North American diagram, which I'll scan and send to you separately. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Was there no circuit change between '71 and '74 or has the '74 > circuit diagram disappeared into the ether? From rolindsay at yahoo.com Wed Oct 3 07:56:20 2007 From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 06:56:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft In-Reply-To: <47031B5F.9040900@ktc.com> Message-ID: <792042.32618.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Also, "time" is not defined as "engine running time". It is just time since the current was first applied to the bi-metal coil. If you have to crank and crank and crank OR if you leave the ignition turned on for some time before trying to start the car, you may get no enrichment of charge at all. The unit knows nothing about what the engine is doing. rick --- Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote: > It's a bimetallic wound strip with a current run > through it. It's > strictly a matter of time on the opening delay. The > hotter it is under > the hood to begin with, the less time it takes to > open. > > CR > > > Ed Woods wrote: > > List, > > > > Well, I'm going to resurrect this subject again. I > finally got around to > > removing this Weber from a '77 MGB. > > > > This particular carb has an electrically operated > choke. How does it work? > > It appears to be connected to a +12V source, not > to a transducer of any > > kind. How does it compensate for engine > temperature? > > > > Ed Woods > > _______________________________________________ > > ccrobins at ktc.com > > > > Edit your replies > > > > Mgs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > _______________________________________________ > rolindsay at yahoo.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Oct 3 10:28:12 2007 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 18:28:12 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Test, please delete Message-ID: Test From 1971mgb at cox.net Thu Oct 4 14:46:51 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 16:46:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] carburetors HS4 Message-ID: <010201c806c7$b1570d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> when adjusting the HS4 carburetors on the MGB is clockwise enriching the mixture? counterclockwise going to lean? I'm drawing a blank, thank you for the advise. From dennis_cox at appsig.com Thu Oct 4 15:20:45 2007 From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 14:20:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] carburetors HS4 In-Reply-To: <010201c806c7$b1570d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> References: <010201c806c7$b1570d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F327C@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com> You "screw it up" to lean it... That's per my SU manual. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 1:47 PM To: MG LIST Subject: [Mgs] carburetors HS4 when adjusting the HS4 carburetors on the MGB is clockwise enriching the mixture? counterclockwise going to lean? I'm drawing a blank, thank you for the advise. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 4 16:31:20 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 17:31:20 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator Message-ID: So the alternator from the local supply store came in finally. It wasn't the cheaper of the two choices. That was unavailable. But this was only $90. Anyway, I've got two problems. 1. I don't have the little key for locking the chuck to the pulley. I don't remember taking one out, of either alternator. And I can't find them. 2. It won't go on. The back mount point has a stand off, like the original. Except the original is on the inside of the bracket. This one is on the backside of the bracket so it doesn't allow the alternator back far enough for the front bracket to meet up with the mount point, and the pivot arm doesn't meet up either. I've already called Quality Coaches, Mark has one. I was going to get as a spare. I can get some keys for the chuck while I'm at it. I was going to get the second one from him anyway, to have a spare. But I thought this would be quicker, since getting to South MPLS is a bit of a pain with the 35W bridge out. Can I hack saw the stand-off off? Or is that structural in some way. Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 4 16:58:15 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 17:58:15 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here's a picture. http://www.joshsjottings.com/~ptroot/PA040007.JPG The green one is the new one with the stand-off going the wrong way. Oh, and I tried moving the rear bracket back further, it won't go back far enough. On Oct 4, 2007, at 5:31 PM, Paul Root wrote: > So the alternator from the local supply store came in finally. It > wasn't the cheaper of the > two choices. That was unavailable. But this was only $90. > > Anyway, I've got two problems. > > 1. I don't have the little key for locking the chuck to the pulley. > I don't remember taking one out, of > either alternator. And I can't find them. > > 2. It won't go on. The back mount point has a stand off, like the > original. Except the original is > on the inside of the bracket. This one is on the backside of the > bracket so it doesn't allow the alternator > back far enough for the front bracket to meet up with the mount > point, and the pivot arm doesn't meet > up either. > > I've already called Quality Coaches, Mark has one. I was going to > get as a spare. I can get some keys > for the chuck while I'm at it. I was going to get the second one > from him anyway, to have a spare. But > I thought this would be quicker, since getting to South MPLS is a > bit of a pain with the 35W bridge out. > > > Can I hack saw the stand-off off? Or is that structural in some way. > > Paul Root > ptrmgb at gmail.com > 77 MGB > 99 OBS > > > Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 4 17:03:50 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 16:03:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator In-Reply-To: Message-ID: All of those that I have ever encountered were just press fits. Just lean on it a bit with a clamp, bench vise or BFH and it should assume the correct position. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/4/07 3:58 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote: > Here's a picture. > > http://www.joshsjottings.com/~ptroot/PA040007.JPG > > The green one is the new one with the stand-off going the wrong way. > > Oh, and I tried moving the rear bracket back further, it won't go > back far enough. > > On Oct 4, 2007, at 5:31 PM, Paul Root wrote: > >> So the alternator from the local supply store came in finally. It >> wasn't the cheaper of the >> two choices. That was unavailable. But this was only $90. >> >> Anyway, I've got two problems. >> >> 1. I don't have the little key for locking the chuck to the pulley. >> I don't remember taking one out, of >> either alternator. And I can't find them. >> >> 2. It won't go on. The back mount point has a stand off, like the >> original. Except the original is >> on the inside of the bracket. This one is on the backside of the >> bracket so it doesn't allow the alternator >> back far enough for the front bracket to meet up with the mount >> point, and the pivot arm doesn't meet >> up either. >> >> I've already called Quality Coaches, Mark has one. I was going to >> get as a spare. I can get some keys >> for the chuck while I'm at it. I was going to get the second one >> from him anyway, to have a spare. But >> I thought this would be quicker, since getting to South MPLS is a >> bit of a pain with the 35W bridge out. >> >> >> Can I hack saw the stand-off off? Or is that structural in some way. >> >> Paul Root >> ptrmgb at gmail.com >> 77 MGB >> 99 OBS >> >> >> > > Paul Root > ptrmgb at gmail.com > 77 MGB > 99 OBS From shop at justbrits.com Thu Oct 4 17:40:13 2007 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 18:40:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator References: Message-ID: <017b01c806df$e94695d0$6601a8c0@actualshop> Paul: REDUCE the pic if you want folks to look at it. 2816pxs x 2112pxs!!! I'm looking at a 21" flat screen default monitor setting is 800 x 600 (by MY choice!!) because I really do not like having my nose plaster to the screen inorder to read. I tried a re-set to 1024pxs and that also is useless!!!! And a FYI & FWIW folks, those of you putting pics up in albums on or your own site you WILL free up a LOT of space by reducing a give "still" pic (*.jpg, *.bmp, *gif) to 10 dpi/pxs. You CANNOT see the diff on web based pics. Printing?? Different story. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 4 19:04:10 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 20:04:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0E0F208E-54F6-4DE0-97FD-A9102CB78949@gmail.com> I'll look at it again, but it doesn't look like a press fit. On Oct 4, 2007, at 6:03 PM, Max Heim wrote: > All of those that I have ever encountered were just press fits. > Just lean on > it a bit with a clamp, bench vise or BFH and it should assume the > correct > position. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 10/4/07 3:58 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote: > >> Here's a picture. >> >> http://www.joshsjottings.com/~ptroot/PA040007.JPG >> >> The green one is the new one with the stand-off going the wrong way. >> >> Oh, and I tried moving the rear bracket back further, it won't go >> back far enough. >> >> On Oct 4, 2007, at 5:31 PM, Paul Root wrote: >> >>> So the alternator from the local supply store came in finally. It >>> wasn't the cheaper of the >>> two choices. That was unavailable. But this was only $90. >>> >>> Anyway, I've got two problems. >>> >>> 1. I don't have the little key for locking the chuck to the pulley. >>> I don't remember taking one out, of >>> either alternator. And I can't find them. >>> >>> 2. It won't go on. The back mount point has a stand off, like the >>> original. Except the original is >>> on the inside of the bracket. This one is on the backside of the >>> bracket so it doesn't allow the alternator >>> back far enough for the front bracket to meet up with the mount >>> point, and the pivot arm doesn't meet >>> up either. >>> >>> I've already called Quality Coaches, Mark has one. I was going to >>> get as a spare. I can get some keys >>> for the chuck while I'm at it. I was going to get the second one >>> from him anyway, to have a spare. But >>> I thought this would be quicker, since getting to South MPLS is a >>> bit of a pain with the 35W bridge out. >>> >>> >>> Can I hack saw the stand-off off? Or is that structural in some way. >>> >>> Paul Root >>> ptrmgb at gmail.com >>> 77 MGB >>> 99 OBS >>> >>> >>> >> >> Paul Root >> ptrmgb at gmail.com >> 77 MGB >> 99 OBS > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 4 19:10:43 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 20:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator In-Reply-To: <017b01c806df$e94695d0$6601a8c0@actualshop> References: <017b01c806df$e94695d0$6601a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: <38107716-68EB-4FDB-83BD-EE725C31C7A5@gmail.com> Sorry, I had barely enough time to take the picture and put it on the computer. And reducing looses detail. On Oct 4, 2007, at 6:40 PM, wrote: > Paul: > > REDUCE the pic if you want folks to look at it. 2816pxs x > 2112pxs!!! I'm > looking at a 21" flat screen default monitor setting is 800 x 600 > (by MY > choice!!) because I really do not like having my nose plaster to > the screen > inorder to read. I tried a re-set to 1024pxs and that also is > useless!!!! > > And a FYI & FWIW folks, those of you putting pics up in albums on > or your own > site you WILL free up a LOT of space by reducing a give "still" pic > (*.jpg, > *.bmp, *gif) to 10 dpi/pxs. You CANNOT see the diff on web based > pics. > Printing?? > Different story. > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 4 19:11:28 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 20:11:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F6E3067-46B5-4B44-9DFE-84EDE1214028@gmail.com> We have a winner. It is a press fit. It just didn't look like it because the quick paint job they did on it. Thanks, Max! On Oct 4, 2007, at 6:03 PM, Max Heim wrote: > All of those that I have ever encountered were just press fits. > Just lean on > it a bit with a clamp, bench vise or BFH and it should assume the > correct > position. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 10/4/07 3:58 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote: > >> Here's a picture. >> >> http://www.joshsjottings.com/~ptroot/PA040007.JPG >> >> The green one is the new one with the stand-off going the wrong way. >> >> Oh, and I tried moving the rear bracket back further, it won't go >> back far enough. >> >> On Oct 4, 2007, at 5:31 PM, Paul Root wrote: >> >>> So the alternator from the local supply store came in finally. It >>> wasn't the cheaper of the >>> two choices. That was unavailable. But this was only $90. >>> >>> Anyway, I've got two problems. >>> >>> 1. I don't have the little key for locking the chuck to the pulley. >>> I don't remember taking one out, of >>> either alternator. And I can't find them. >>> >>> 2. It won't go on. The back mount point has a stand off, like the >>> original. Except the original is >>> on the inside of the bracket. This one is on the backside of the >>> bracket so it doesn't allow the alternator >>> back far enough for the front bracket to meet up with the mount >>> point, and the pivot arm doesn't meet >>> up either. >>> >>> I've already called Quality Coaches, Mark has one. I was going to >>> get as a spare. I can get some keys >>> for the chuck while I'm at it. I was going to get the second one >>> from him anyway, to have a spare. But >>> I thought this would be quicker, since getting to South MPLS is a >>> bit of a pain with the 35W bridge out. >>> >>> >>> Can I hack saw the stand-off off? Or is that structural in some way. >>> >>> Paul Root >>> ptrmgb at gmail.com >>> 77 MGB >>> 99 OBS >>> >>> >>> >> >> Paul Root >> ptrmgb at gmail.com >> 77 MGB >> 99 OBS > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From shop at justbrits.com Thu Oct 4 20:33:49 2007 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 21:33:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Alternator References: <017b01c806df$e94695d0$6601a8c0@actualshop> <38107716-68EB-4FDB-83BD-EE725C31C7A5@gmail.com> Message-ID: <023b01c806f8$2a055df0$6601a8c0@actualshop> <> NOT for web work, Paul. As i said, PRINTING (as in on paper), Yep. Take any pic you have at let's say 1024 w w/res or 72 or higher. Leave at 1024 and reduce to 10. FIFTY bucks says you can't see the diff (not sure about if magnify glass would change). From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 5 02:45:38 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 09:45:38 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] carburetors HS4 References: <010201c806c7$b1570d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F327C@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com> Message-ID: <010201c8072c$c38a10e0$0200a8c0@Three> Or looking at it another way, like down onto the top of the carb, you do turn it clockwise to enrich and anti-clockwise to lean as you say. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > You "screw it up" to lean it... That's per my SU manual. > > when adjusting the HS4 carburetors on the MGB is clockwise enriching the > mixture? counterclockwise going to lean? From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 05:59:34 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 04:59:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Alternator In-Reply-To: <017b01c806df$e94695d0$6601a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: <312010.96272.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> shop at justbrits.com wrote: Paul: REDUCE the pic if you want folks to look at it. 2816pxs x 2112pxs!!! Came up fine for me on my crappy ThinkPad monitor. Was sized properly and all. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 5 14:56:48 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 13:56:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] A plug for Bill Message-ID: I see lister Bill Spohn was published in R&T this month, writing in about his Jamaican -- even got a photo. I don't know if anyone noticed my letter in last month's issue. It was admittedly OT... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From WSpohn4 at aol.com Fri Oct 5 15:15:30 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 17:15:30 EDT Subject: [Mgs] A plug for Bill Message-ID: In a message dated 10/5/2007 2:10:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: I see lister Bill Spohn was published in R&T this month, writing in about his Jamaican -- even got a photo. I don't know if anyone noticed my letter in last month's issue. It was admittedly OT... Hi Max. I just got my copy a day ago. I had to go take a new picture as they asked or a high resolution image even for the relatively small picture - dedication to quality, I guess. I stuck the image on my site at _http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i /non-rhodo/side1resize.jpg_ (http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i/non-rhodo/side1resize.jpg) Bill From mjanacek at snet.net Fri Oct 5 18:12:01 2007 From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 20:12:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] A plug for Bill References: Message-ID: <004401c807ad$850c1f80$200aff4c@DESKTOP> Bill, Nice pic, even nicer car, but looks like you've done too many "doughnuts" in the lot! ;o) Mike '79B ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 5:15 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] A plug for Bill > In a message dated 10/5/2007 2:10:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > I see lister Bill Spohn was published in R&T this month, writing in about > his Jamaican -- even got a photo. I don't know if anyone noticed my > letter > in last month's issue. It was admittedly OT... > > > > Hi Max. I just got my copy a day ago. I had to go take a new picture as > they asked or a high resolution image even for the relatively small > picture - > dedication to quality, I guess. > > I stuck the image on my site at _http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i > /non-rhodo/side1resize.jpg_ > (http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i/non-rhodo/side1resize.jpg) > > Bill From WSpohn4 at aol.com Fri Oct 5 18:16:21 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 20:16:21 EDT Subject: [Mgs] A plug for Bill Message-ID: In a message dated 05/10/2007 5:12:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mjanacek at snet.net writes: Nice pic, even nicer car, but looks like you've done too many "doughnuts" in the lot! ;o) Well that lot is actually half way up a local mountain. I use it to take pictures out in nature without anything else around, but the local motorcycle weenies also go up there and roar around where the police won't bother them, and that is what leaves all the marks. While I was there, I heard ...roar.....crash! As some twit dropped his bike trying too hard. Same lot I took this picture in: (http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/page/page/112402.htm) _http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i/non-rhodo/iconjpg.jpg_ (http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i/non-rhodo/iconjpg.jpg) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 5 22:45:47 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 23:45:47 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] way off topic - early ford mustangs References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <002201c807d3$f4da4be0$800101df@Garage.local> hi, all. i apologize for the ot question. my teenage daughter is longing for an early mustang. if there is an early mustang afficionado on the list, would you please contact me offline. thanks. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Sat Oct 6 10:33:14 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 09:33:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] A plug for Bill Message-ID: <733308.81718.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com> ----- Original Message ---- From: Max Heim To: MG List Sent: Friday, October 5, 2007 4:56:48 PM Subject: [Mgs] A plug for Bill I see lister Bill Spohn was published in R&T this month, writing in about his Jamaican -- even got a photo. I don't know if anyone noticed my letter in last month's issue. It was admittedly OT... ------------------- Cool, haven't read R&T in a while, I have to visit the library today so I will check out both 'articles'.... From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:31:07 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:31:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07 Grillin' and Chillin' Message-ID: <001301c80847$1108f8c0$331aea40$@com> Subject: SOS '07 Grillin' and Chillin' Yes indeed, it's that time again to begin the plans for SOS '07 "Grillin' & Chillin'". So far, we have a number of projects on tap.. We have 6 Spridgets to dismantle, strip, give away, or turn into a bench vices you can buy at Harbor Freight next year. Take the former "Gift Sprite", and turn it into a barbecue grill that Peter the Parts Pimp can to the races with his Mini. Help Kris Larsen do final assembly on his race car "Sta Puff". Sandblast (or bead blast) numerous components. yours, mine, or stuff we pull off of the aforementioned 6 Spridgets. Any other projects you'd like to toss in the mix. suggestions welcome. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:31:23 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:31:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS dates Message-ID: <001901c80847$1aa57390$4ff05ab0$@com> SOS will once again take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:31:41 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:31:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07, a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 1 Message-ID: <001f01c80847$25697e70$703c7b50$@com> Hey y'all, Preparations for "SOS '07 a Little Bit of Spridget Heaven" are well underway. Once again, SOS will be held at the Dream Farm, in beautiful Eldorado, WI. The list of projects continues to grow. Bud Pazur's Bugeye "Mr. White" will be here for a roll bar installation. Kris Larsen's "StaPuff" racecar will be getting final assembly. I dug up a Bugeye bonnet project that should be interesting, educational, and a general pain in the ass. I have a decent bonnet on a racecar where there fender lips were cut back (a lot) for fiberglass flare installation. We'll extract that portion of the fender lip from a very rotted and banged up bonnet I have, and fit them to the good one. "Measure twice. cut once. I cut it 3 times and it's still too short" kind of deal. So, we'll be doing some welding. At the pace Larry "Mr. Peepers" Daniels is getting to his project. we have a few choices. either he continue to put about 10 man hours into it a year for a hundred years, or we get a hundred guys here that can donate 10 hours of time. So, with that in mind, there will be lots of help need in Larry's project. Tomorrow, brother Don and I are retrieving 2 of the 5 cars I bought in Madison a few weeks ago. 2 Bugeyes, and 3 Spridgets. We may add some of the worst of them to the "blue wrench" pile. (gas torch for those paying attention). Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:31:55 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:31:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07, a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 2 Message-ID: <002501c80847$2d7a5030$886ef090$@com> Part 2 You need not have mechanical ability to attend. You can just watch, eat, and drink if you'd like. Remember, the Dream Farm is located about an hour north of Milwaukee, between Fond du Lac and Oshkosh. We're very close to the > for those that would like to combine SOS with a trip to the museum. Also a couple of miles away, the > is also a nice diversion. Also, we do have the ability to put some folks up here, whether it be in the house, in the shop, or in the camper for those that need a place to stay. There are also many hotel choices on either side of us, but reservations should be booked sooner than later on a holiday weekend. Once again, we'll broadcast the event via Yahoo Messenger, video, and audio, with real time ability to ask questions of the participants from viewers around the world. Get your Yahoo ID and download Yahoo Messenger from http://messenger.yahoo.com/. Add to your friends list. More later. I'd like to do one motor assembly.. So, if no one else brings a motor to build, I'll come up with one. As always, kids and spouses are welcome. We may have some time set aside for the go kart track, if the weather cooperates. We'll be coming up with some non-homo club activities for those womenfolk that would like to come along, but not spend all day with us dopes in the shop. Details on that as they develop. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:32:16 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:32:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07 for the uninitiated Message-ID: <002b01c80847$3a167670$ae436350$@com> Hey y'all, Yes. this message is for the uninitiated. Of course, the initiated have already "run the gauntlet", and know what's in store for them. Generally, we get started around 10AM. We'll work 'til around 4PM. Since we'll have at least 3 or 4 simultaneous projects, you can jump in on whatever interests you. If you're coming to learn, don't be shy. If you're coming just to hang out, that is absolutely OK too. You need not be an expert at anything to attend. just enjoy people or cars, or both. If you intend to get dirty, please make sure to bring a change of clothes, as we're go out for dinner Friday night. We'll be serving lunch both Fri. & Sat. If you'd like to bring something to serve, please let me know in advance. For those of you that can't attend, we do accept food contributions, if you can safely ship them in a manner that won't kill us. In the past, folks have sent clams, scrapple, calamari, brats, etc. The Thicko International World Headquarters are located at the Dream Farm. a 10 acre farm between Fond du Lac & Oshkosh Wisconsin. We're smack dab in the middle of dairy farm country. The Thicko shop (yes, it is also known as the "homo club" ) is well lit, and well heated, should the weather be crap, as it often is that time of year, we'll be comfortable. We have plenty of parking. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:32:31 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:32:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07 little projects Message-ID: <003101c80847$430e73e0$c92b5ba0$@com> We've got the ability to do a fair amount of sandblasting here. If the weather's at all decent, you're welcome to do outdoor sandblasting of anything large that you need to get to. Media (sand) is available minutes away. As far as smaller stuff, we have one large cabinet. with sand, plenty big for suspension parts, wheels, etc. Then there's a smaller cabinet with glass bead for more delicate stuff you might need to clean up. If you have stuff that needs cleaning up, bring it with you. I expect you'll have an opportunity to get it done. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:32:46 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:32:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS special project Message-ID: <003701c80847$4c71b640$e55522c0$@com> As mentioned earlier, I recently bought 5 Spridgets from the Madison area. The woman I bought them from, Mary, was widowed about 7 years ago. It was her husband that was the Sprite racer. but she shared his love for the cars. In fact, besides the 5 cars I bought, she's kept 2. One car, a Bugeye racecar. her 12 year old son wanted to keep since it had belonged to his Dad. The other, she kept for herself. It's a MKI Midget that they had their first date in. The Midget looks to be in very decent, restorable, perhaps even drivable shape. As a special project for SOS '07, I've offered to pick up her car in Madison (or maybe PPP can arrange to get it here?), and we'll see if it turns over. If so, we'll change the oil, flush the fuel, and see if we can get it started. We'll also see if we can insure the clutch and brakes are operational. Hopefully, she can end up with an operational car, or, at least, properly prepare it for long term storage. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sat Oct 6 12:33:01 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:33:01 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07 powdercoating Message-ID: <003d01c80847$55188670$ff499350$@com> I hooked up to the powder coating oven in the shop. works well. I ordered up a Horrible Freight powder coating kit. so, if any of youse guys bring some parts to sandblast, we can try to get them powder coated. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From david_breneman at yahoo.com Sat Oct 6 15:48:23 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 14:48:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07 for the uninitiated In-Reply-To: <002b01c80847$3a167670$ae436350$@com> Message-ID: <169912.65461.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- "Wm. Severin Thompson" wrote: > Yes. this message is for the uninitiated. Of course, the initiated > have > already "run the gauntlet", and know what's in store for them. One thing you could explain to the uninitiated is what "SOS" stands for, besides " ... --- ..." and creamed chipped beef on toast. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC From barak at hughes.net Sat Oct 6 16:12:56 2007 From: barak at hughes.net (Barak) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 18:12:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Carburettor question Message-ID: <002e01c80866$16311160$42933420$@net> Hello list! I've got a couple of quick questions about HS carburettors... I've got the Haynes SU Carb manual, and I'm using it to put my carbs back together, and I've come to the part where you initially set the jet. Their instructions read "... Screw down the jet adjusting nut/screw two turns on non-tamperproof carburetors, or three turns on tamperproofed carburettors". So how do you tell the difference between a "tamperproofed" and a "non-tamperproof" carb??? I can't seem to find any other reference to this in the book on a quick glance through. One whole turn seems like it would make a huge difference, and I'd rather get this right the first time (and it's much easier to see/count turns when it's laying on my bench). :p Oh, and how the heck are you supposed to get at that fast idle screw when the carbs are attached to the car? My hands don't bend that way in the first place and aren't nearly small enough in the second. Chris ~70 MGB From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 6 16:38:07 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 17:38:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07 for the uninitiated References: <169912.65461.qm@web42101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <055601c80869$9186d4a0$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Breneman" To: Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 4:48 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] FW: SOS '07 for the uninitiated --- "Wm. Severin Thompson" wrote: > Yes. this message is for the uninitiated. Of course, the initiated > have > already "run the gauntlet", and know what's in store for them. One thing you could explain to the uninitiated is what "SOS" stands for, besides " ... --- ..." and creamed chipped beef on toast. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ============================ David, et.al, SOS stands for Save Our Spridgets. This is patterned after a group from the Eastern side of the country who coined their group as O.S.H.I.T., which stands for Official Spridget Handymen In Transit. The deal is that a bunch of Spridget owners get together to help one another with project cars. The SOS group gets together here in Wisconsin every Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving to help each other with any and all projects that require some attention. I believe the OSHIT group gets together whenever somebody needs some help. There is always plenty to eat and drink and plenty of help for those who need it. Last year a bunch of guys flew and/or drove to Anaheim, CA to help a Spridget lister put his Bugeye together. They started with a bare, but painted, body with not one other piece on it and completely built the car and had it running down the street in 3 days. The owner had run into health problems and could not reassemble the car, so a bunch got together from as far away as New Jersey and New York and built it for him. He had bought the car brand new and he and his wife had their first date in it. So, you can see, it just had to be completed for them. That little adventure was done for a lister who goes by the name of Buster and it was called the Buster Cluster. Sound interesting? Sound like fun? Maybe somebody can start something similar for MGB's. It's great camaraderie and a super way to meet listers with whom you have been emailing back and forth for ages, but have never met. Think about it. I am cross-posting this to the Spridget list. If any of you might want to ask any questions on how to do this, fire away on the Spridget list. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Oct 6 18:51:22 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 19:51:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Carburettor question In-Reply-To: <002e01c80866$16311160$42933420$@net> References: <002e01c80866$16311160$42933420$@net> Message-ID: I thought the tamperproof ones were the same, just set and then a plug put in over the screw. So much I know. I'd just go down two and give it a try. On Oct 6, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Barak wrote: > Hello list! > > I've got a couple of quick questions about HS carburettors... > > I've got the Haynes SU Carb manual, and I'm using it to put my > carbs back > together, and I've come to the part where you initially set the > jet. Their > instructions read "... Screw down the jet adjusting nut/screw two > turns on > non-tamperproof carburetors, or three turns on tamperproofed > carburettors". > > So how do you tell the difference between a "tamperproofed" and a > "non-tamperproof" carb??? I can't seem to find any other reference > to this > in the book on a quick glance through. One whole turn seems like > it would > make a huge difference, and I'd rather get this right the first > time (and > it's much easier to see/count turns when it's laying on my bench). :p > > Oh, and how the heck are you supposed to get at that fast idle > screw when > the carbs are attached to the car? My hands don't bend that way in > the > first place and aren't nearly small enough in the second. > > Chris > ~70 MGB > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Oct 6 19:21:52 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 20:21:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B Message-ID: <048DD615-8A55-4A8C-BCA1-6D9D99D73771@gmail.com> My wife and older son are out of town this weekend, so my 10 year old and I are home bach'ing it. After getting the alternator in and going, we were itching to get the car out and see that the gremlins were gone. I was still considering taking the car to Kansas for the Runoffs at the end of the week. After dinner, we were driving to the hardware store to get a couple things to fix a couple of preschool toys that the kids managed to break. The car lurched a few times. Got to the hardware store, but it was closed. We were going to get on the highway head to Menards. Sam says that Home Depot is closer. Ok fine, take the frontage road instead, the car dies at a stop light. I have Sam steer around the left turn and get off the road. He runs it up on the curb, but otherwise did a good job. I check the wires on the starter that had come loose before, they were fine. Coil wires looked fine. Check the fuel pump, as I didn't hear clicking. The carbs were full, pump was fine. I decide the pop the dizzy cap, to see if it was ok. Then I saw it. The wires for the pertronix were rubbing against the shaft, and the red one had broken. Sam found the electrical tape, I stripped the wire, and taped it up. Rerouted it so it doesn't go around the shaft, close up the dizzy, and start the car. Drove home. A nice guy in a Jeep stopped to see if he could help, but I had it under control. I didn't have any tools. They were all sitting on my workbench in the garage, I did everything with a keychain leatherman. I guess I won't be taking it to Kansas, I don't like the idea of a piece of electrical tape in the dizzy, I suppose I could put some shrink wrap on it. I'm also considering replacing it. Maybe an MDS? I need to check the shaft of the dizzy to see if it's wobbly. Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 6 19:42:49 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 20:42:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B References: <048DD615-8A55-4A8C-BCA1-6D9D99D73771@gmail.com> Message-ID: <057e01c80883$5ed22ef0$6401a8c0@Larry> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Root" To: "MG List" Cc: "Rich Root" Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 8:21 PM Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B My wife and older son are out of town this weekend, so my 10 year old and I are home bach'ing it. After getting the alternator in and going, we were itching to get the car out and see that the gremlins were gone. I was still considering taking the car to Kansas for the Runoffs at the end of the week. After dinner, we were driving to the hardware store to get a couple things to fix a couple of preschool toys that the kids managed to break. The car lurched a few times. Got to the hardware store, but it was closed. We were going to get on the highway head to Menards. Sam says that Home Depot is closer. Ok fine, take the frontage road instead, the car dies at a stop light. I have Sam steer around the left turn and get off the road. He runs it up on the curb, but otherwise did a good job. I check the wires on the starter that had come loose before, they were fine. Coil wires looked fine. Check the fuel pump, as I didn't hear clicking. The carbs were full, pump was fine. I decide the pop the dizzy cap, to see if it was ok. Then I saw it. The wires for the pertronix were rubbing against the shaft, and the red one had broken. Sam found the electrical tape, I stripped the wire, and taped it up. Rerouted it so it doesn't go around the shaft, close up the dizzy, and start the car. Drove home. A nice guy in a Jeep stopped to see if he could help, but I had it under control. I didn't have any tools. They were all sitting on my workbench in the garage, I did everything with a keychain leatherman. I guess I won't be taking it to Kansas, I don't like the idea of a piece of electrical tape in the dizzy, I suppose I could put some shrink wrap on it. I'm also considering replacing it. Maybe an MDS? I need to check the shaft of the dizzy to see if it's wobbly. Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS ===================== Oh, c'mon, Paul. Go for it. Bring tools; bring spares. There is nothing like a road trip with your baby to get (re)acquainted. With apologies to Nike, just do it. I met my 40 year old Austin Pickup for the first time at the docks in Baltimore and drove it home to Wisconsin. I would never have it any other way again. That's half the fun of these cars. Maybe see you at the June Sprints next year? Larry Daniels From shop at justbrits.com Sat Oct 6 19:57:37 2007 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 20:57:37 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B References: <048DD615-8A55-4A8C-BCA1-6D9D99D73771@gmail.com> Message-ID: <006e01c80885$704a4fd0$6601a8c0@actualshop> <> Just send the dizzy to Jeff at Advance and have it re-built (I think around $165) and live a nice life with points and ENJOY the "as new" car, Paul. And keep the K.I.S.S. Rule!! Ed From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Oct 6 20:14:43 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 21:14:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B In-Reply-To: <057e01c80883$5ed22ef0$6401a8c0@Larry> References: <048DD615-8A55-4A8C-BCA1-6D9D99D73771@gmail.com> <057e01c80883$5ed22ef0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <9479192B-80F8-43A5-AB62-E60B802BF58E@gmail.com> On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:42 PM, Larry Daniels wrote: > > Oh, c'mon, Paul. Go for it. Bring tools; bring spares. There is > nothing > like a road trip with your baby to get (re)acquainted. With > apologies to > Nike, just do it. I met my 40 year old Austin Pickup for the first > time at > the docks in Baltimore and drove it home to Wisconsin. I would > never have > it any other way again. That's half the fun of these cars. > > Maybe see you at the June Sprints next year? > > Larry Daniels We'll see what the weather's like this week. If I can get some seat time in it to shake down, I could. Rich decided he didn't have time to devote to the Runoffs, so we'll just be spectators. But Road America is "his" track, and he loves the Sprints. We'll be there. Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sat Oct 6 20:20:17 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 21:20:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B In-Reply-To: <006e01c80885$704a4fd0$6601a8c0@actualshop> References: <048DD615-8A55-4A8C-BCA1-6D9D99D73771@gmail.com> <006e01c80885$704a4fd0$6601a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: That might be the best idea. I'm remembering the thread from the summer on Jeff. On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:57 PM, wrote: > <> > > Just send the dizzy to Jeff at Advance and have it re-built (I > think around > $165) and live a nice life with points and ENJOY the "as new" car, > Paul. > > And keep the K.I.S.S. Rule!! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From wsthompson at thicko.com Sun Oct 7 06:33:36 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 07:33:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Food call Message-ID: <007901c808de$49dc5ec0$dd951c40$@com> Hey y'all, If you've attended SOS previously, you know you won't go home hungry. In the past, some folks that couldn't attend sent a variety of foods for the party. Clams, scrapple, brats, Swedish pancakes, cheese curds, homemade beef jerky, pork loin, calamari, etc have been served. So, of you' like to contribute to the culinary efforts, please contact me sooner rather than later so we can figure out the event menu, and the logistics of getting your contribution here. (Since we live in WI, we have the mandatory large chest freezer in the basement for deer and ex-wife carcasses.) Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii wsthompson at thicko.com www.thicko.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sun Oct 7 07:06:22 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 08:06:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 parts is parts Message-ID: <007f01c808e2$ddcf2370$996d6a50$@com> Sometimes you have to take the good with the bad. Such is the case when you buy up someone's entire inventory of cars & parts. I've got 7 "parts cars" that are going to be picked clean to the bone and sent to the crusher to become Chinese made bench vices at Horrible Freight. There's plenty of good parts on these. Some, I'll keep in order to keep my own spares inventory well stocked. But, some parts I won't need, and would like to see them used. For instance, I'm sure there's one or two of you MG guys that need the side chrome trim pieces. So, if you have any specific needs, speak up, and we'll look over the cadavers and see if we can help you out. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii wsthompson at thicko.com www.thicko.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Oct 7 07:33:56 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 14:33:56 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Carburettor question References: <002e01c80866$16311160$42933420$@net> Message-ID: <005d01c808e8$20f06740$0200a8c0@Three> >From what I have seen over the years the tamperproof just had an alloy cap pressed into the mixture screw hole of HIF carbs, which could be picked out, so the term 'tamper proof' could be contested under the Trades Descriptions Act anyway. Both my Haynes MGB manual and the Leyland manual only talk about a 'jet restrictor' on HS carbs, which limits how much the jet can be adjusted one way or the other, but it still allows you to make small adjustments. I suspect because your Haynes specifies 'jet adjusting nut/screw' it is giving one set of instructions for both HS and HIF carbs, and hence the 'tamperproof' bit is only referring to the HIFs. I don't understand why the 'tamperproof' should need 50% more fuel either, and my manuals say only two down for both non-emissions and emissions carbs. Like the other Paul says just turn it down two and go from there. If it really does need three then you will end up there anyway. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >> So how do you tell the difference between a "tamperproofed" and a >> "non-tamperproof" carb??? From wsthompson at thicko.com Sun Oct 7 10:12:27 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 11:12:27 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 parts is parts In-Reply-To: <47088EEA.28806.1550E8@dmg.bossig.com> References: <007f01c808e2$ddcf2370$996d6a50$@com> <47088EEA.28806.1550E8@dmg.bossig.com> Message-ID: <000601c808fc$dd0c97f0$9725c7d0$@com> There's a Bugeye, 2 or 3 MKII Sprite/MKI Midgets, 1 or 2 MKIII Sprite/MKII Midgets, and a round arch Midget. -----Original Message----- From: Dave G. [mailto:dmg at bossig.com] Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 9:47 AM To: Wm. Severin Thompson; 'Spridgets'; team-thicko at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07 parts is parts Any idea as to the approx year of the carcasses?? ;^\ - Dave G '65 MKIII Sprite From barrie at look.ca Sun Oct 7 08:16:21 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 10:16:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine Message-ID: Did the MGB 1.8L get enlarged to 2.0 and be fitted with DHC and turbo and plonked in another BL machine? This I was told - but is it true? Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From WSpohn4 at aol.com Sun Oct 7 12:59:25 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 14:59:25 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine Message-ID: In a message dated 07/10/2007 11:57:42 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, barrie at look.ca writes: Did the MGB 1.8L get enlarged to 2.0 and be fitted with DHC and turbo and plonked in another BL machine? This I was told - but is it true? No Bill S. From barak at hughes.net Sun Oct 7 13:11:33 2007 From: barak at hughes.net (Barak) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 15:11:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Electrical system questions Message-ID: <003a01c80915$ebeab590$c3c020b0$@net> Thanks to everyone for their help on the carburetor question. As a bit of back story, this is a car I bought several years ago and began work on, then had to put away for a long time due to life circumstances. I've recently been able to get it out and dig into it again, so you'll probably be hearing from me a bit more frequently now. Now, on to the electrical issues. 1)Stop lamps don't come on when the brake is depressed. I tried to trace the wiring and ran into a snag... I can't seem to find the stoplamp switch! I find what I think is the pressure test lamp switch (with two black/white wires attached) sitting on top of the hydraulic union. In the same vicinity are two wires not connected to anything, one green with one of the female bullet receptacles on it and the other green/purple with a bullet connector on it. According to my schematic, those are the two wires that should go into the stoplamp switch. I'm sure it doesn't help that I don't know what this switch should look like either. :( 2) Right hand turn signal doesn't flash, it is steady on. The left hand side flashes as it should. When the hazards are turned on, both sides flash as they should. I don't think this is a grounding issue, as when I use a test probe to check the green/white wire the current remains steady. I would think that grounding it that way would cause it to flash if it were a ground issue (please correct me if this is an incorrect assumption). I also don't think it is a flasher issue since the left side works fine. I've bought matching bulbs and replaced them all around, so there isn't a mismatch in them. Is it possible for the stalk switch to have gone bad in some way as to cause this? Although a connection *is* being made since it does light up. Any help with the above would be much appreciated! Especially the stop lights... I don't want to drive it until that is fixed. I can deal with the turn signal issue for a while if I have to. Thanks! Chris ~1970 MGB From barrie at look.ca Sun Oct 7 14:34:21 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 16:34:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine Message-ID: Folks, It seems there was an engine developed from the "B" engine through another version ("O" ?). It was the Rover T16 and did go to 2.0L with turbo....but would it drop into an MGB? Probably a little difficult. It could put out 200bhp and some went to 800bhp (owwww!) Did the MGB 1.8L get enlarged to 2.0 and be fitted with DHC and turbo and plonked in another BL machine? This I was told - but is it true? Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm /// /// mgb-v8 at autox.team.net mailing list /// Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net /// Send list postings to mgb-v8 at autox.team.net /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent. /// Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Oct 7 14:47:53 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 15:47:53 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The O-series was a follow on to the B-series engine, not sure if it was the same block or based on it. I don't think it was 2l. As I recall going to 2 liter on the B-series block is the ragged edge of the bore limit. The O-series as SOHC, not DOHC. I'm going to go with no. On Oct 7, 2007, at 9:16 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > Did the MGB 1.8L get enlarged to 2.0 and be fitted with DHC and > turbo and plonked in another BL machine? This I was told - but is > it true? > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From WSpohn4 at aol.com Sun Oct 7 14:52:54 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:52:54 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine Message-ID: In a message dated 07/10/2007 1:35:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, barrie at look.ca writes: It seems there was an engine developed from the "B" engine through another version ("O" ?). It was the Rover T16 and did go to 2.0L with turbo....but would it drop into an MGB? Probably a little difficult. It could put out 200bhp and some went to 800bhp (owwww!) OK, to add to my original response ("No"), the O series did derive from design studies on the old B series, but: "By the autumn of 1972, the O-Series name was formally applied to the B-OHC, and it marked the point in time when the final link with the original engine was removed (..."the deletion of the "camshaft"/jackshaft so that the whole B-Series tappet chest could be pared away"). The B-Series' design had acted as a starting point, but no parts were shared - and this is demonstrated by the cylinder block's light weight (due to the walls being thinned), meaning that the strength of block could be braced in to the exact tolerance required. This weight management would underpin the O-Series' transformation into the M-Series during the 1980s." See _http://www.austin-rover.co.uk/index.htm?enginebseriesf.htm_ (http://www.austin-rover.co.uk/index.htm?enginebseriesf.htm) The new engine did not even share bore, stroke, nor displacement with the old engine. So no parts or dimensions were carried over. It was a new engine. Bill From ptrmgb at gmail.com Sun Oct 7 14:56:54 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 15:56:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Electrical system questions In-Reply-To: <003a01c80915$ebeab590$c3c020b0$@net> References: <003a01c80915$ebeab590$c3c020b0$@net> Message-ID: <3234730A-3A3D-4A43-832B-486EEC9393BD@gmail.com> On Oct 7, 2007, at 2:11 PM, Barak wrote: > Thanks to everyone for their help on the carburetor question. > > As a bit of back story, this is a car I bought several years ago > and began > work on, then had to put away for a long time due to life > circumstances. > I've recently been able to get it out and dig into it again, so you'll > probably be hearing from me a bit more frequently now. > > Now, on to the electrical issues. > > 1)Stop lamps don't come on when the brake is depressed. > > I tried to trace the wiring and ran into a snag... I can't seem to > find the > stoplamp switch! I find what I think is the pressure test lamp > switch (with > two black/white wires attached) sitting on top of the hydraulic > union. In > the same vicinity are two wires not connected to anything, one > green with > one of the female bullet receptacles on it and the other green/ > purple with a > bullet connector on it. According to my schematic, those are the > two wires > that should go into the stoplamp switch. I'm sure it doesn't help > that I > don't know what this switch should look like either. :( On a '70, shouldn't the brake light switch be on the black cover up in front of the master cylinders? The pressure switch is on the inner wing in a 5 way connector. > 2) Right hand turn signal doesn't flash, it is steady on. The left > hand > side flashes as it should. When the hazards are turned on, both > sides flash > as they should. > > I don't think this is a grounding issue, as when I use a test probe > to check > the green/white wire the current remains steady. I would think that > grounding it that way would cause it to flash if it were a ground > issue > (please correct me if this is an incorrect assumption). > > I also don't think it is a flasher issue since the left side works > fine. > > I've bought matching bulbs and replaced them all around, so there > isn't a > mismatch in them. > > Is it possible for the stalk switch to have gone bad in some way as > to cause > this? Although a connection *is* being made since it does light up. > > Any help with the above would be much appreciated! Especially the > stop > lights... I don't want to drive it until that is fixed. I can deal > with the > turn signal issue for a while if I have to. You just have to trace each section to find it. I don't think it would be the stalk, all it does is get power through the circuit, and the flasher unit does the rest. > > Thanks! > Chris > ~1970 MGB > Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 7 15:39:59 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:39:59 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil leak References: <003a01c80915$ebeab590$c3c020b0$@net> <3234730A-3A3D-4A43-832B-486EEC9393BD@gmail.com> Message-ID: <002501c8092a$f66575e0$8215a8c0@Garage.local> Hi, all. apparently i have an oil leak. apparently it is leaking down onto the frame way up front, under the oil filter or farther forward. is there a usual suspect in this area or do i need to get it up and get under and do some serious detective work? should i be looking at switching to stainless steel hoses if, what i think is true, its in the oil cooler hose connections to the oil filter? thanks! early 73 mgb roadster From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 7 17:45:40 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 18:45:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil leak References: <003a01c80915$ebeab590$c3c020b0$@net><3234730A-3A3D-4A43-832B-486EEC9393BD@gmail.com> <002501c8092a$f66575e0$8215a8c0@Garage.local> Message-ID: <00cc01c8093c$2b94f810$6401a8c0@Larry> Oliver, my A60 Ute has a banjo bolt that attaches the pipe to the filter head that often requires a little tightening. It doesn't take much loosening to really kick out some oil. You might want to take a look at that -- it's worth a try anyhow. Larry Daniels 79 MGB LE 60 Bugeye 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute) "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape." ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: "MG List" Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 4:39 PM Subject: [Mgs] oil leak Hi, all. apparently i have an oil leak. apparently it is leaking down onto the frame way up front, under the oil filter or farther forward. is there a usual suspect in this area or do i need to get it up and get under and do some serious detective work? should i be looking at switching to stainless steel hoses if, what i think is true, its in the oil cooler hose connections to the oil filter? thanks! early 73 mgb roadster _______________________________________________ ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.3/1054 - Release Date: 10/6/2007 7:12 PM From wsthompson at thicko.com Sun Oct 7 18:12:04 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 19:12:04 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 parts is parts pricing part 1 Message-ID: <004901c8093f$dd7cc370$98764a50$@com> Hey y'all, I've been giving this some thought. here's what I have in mind. Larry, Dave, and brother Don get first dibs, as they were the ones brave/stupid enough to help snatch some of these cars. Many of you have asked about specific parts, and in many cases, I think we'll have something for you. Some other things, we won't know until they can inspected further. The 4 most recent cars have all been powerwashed once, and are being left out in the rain/weather until SOS just to try to get the stench of raccoon pooh and wiz a little less obvious. Ugggh. I've got a lot of Spridgets. some street cars, and some race cars. I try to collect what I think I'll need during the next 20 or so years of my racing/restoration hobby. because this stuff is becoming unobtanium. But, despite having 6000 sq ft of storage, there is a limit. I've bought enough collections of cars and parts over the years from folks getting out of the hobby, or from widows after some poor slob died to know I don't want to burden the living with all my crap once I'm gone. 2.5 years after moving here, I'm slowly gaining on organizing my shop, and my cars & parts. The rest, I'd rather see go to folks trying to keep these cars on the road, rather than just dump truckloads of parts for scrap metal prices (which actually are pretty good these days). Some stuff will see Ebay, but my preference is these parts go to members of these lists, and more specifically, participants in SOS (whether in person or peripherally). More in part 2. Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii wsthompson at thicko.com www.thicko.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Sun Oct 7 18:29:21 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 19:29:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 parts pricing part 2 Message-ID: <005501c80942$4723f710$d56be530$@com> So, if it turns out amongst these 7 cars that there's something serviceable that you can use, make me an offer. You know what some of these items go for.. sometimes expensive, sometimes a bargain. (Sometimes you have to make six 180 mile round trips and wade through raccoon pooh to get 4 of them, two 150 mile round trips to get 2 of them, and one 200 mile round trip to get the other one). I will not name a price. You make an offer. Your offer will need to be in addition to whatever costs are involved in shipping it to you if necessary. If you're here, you'll save on shipping. A small portion of what you pay will go toward funding SOS, and the majority will be donated to the Fond du Lac Humane Society. We just lost one of our 5 shelter rescued dogs. Hannah. I had her 14 years. The pack is holding steady at 4 now, although Louie is older than dirt. So, buy some parts, and help support homeless animals (and reduce the amount of crap my heirs will have to deal with when I take a dirt nap). Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii wsthompson at thicko.com www.thicko.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From ramsmgb at cox.net Sun Oct 7 21:14:21 2007 From: ramsmgb at cox.net (Richard) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 20:14:21 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] vibration Message-ID: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> I am getting a vibration as I accelerate. This problem occurred suddenly while on a 1400 mile trip. It occurs while standing at a stop or accelerating at speed. It is more noticeable a low speed or standing. It is not a constant vibration, but one that occurs and then is not very noticeable at speed. All other operations are normal, such as power, starting, oil pressure and temperature. I have checked the exhaust system, engine mounts and transmission mount. Does anyone have any other ideas? Richard 1972 MGB Tucson, AZ _____ Upgrade Your Email - Click here! From montejane at gmail.com Sun Oct 7 21:21:24 2007 From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 20:21:24 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] vibration In-Reply-To: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> Message-ID: U-joints? Monte On 10/7/07, Richard wrote: > > I am getting a vibration as I accelerate. This problem occurred suddenly > while on a 1400 mile trip. It occurs while standing at a stop or > accelerating at speed. It is more noticeable a low speed or standing. It > is > not a constant vibration, but one that occurs and then is not very > noticeable at speed. All other operations are normal, such as power, > starting, oil pressure and temperature. I have checked the exhaust system, > engine mounts and transmission mount. Does anyone have any other ideas? > > > Richard > 1972 MGB > Tucson, AZ > > > > > _____ > > > < > http://promos.hotbar.com/promos/promodll.dll?RunPromo&El=&SG=&RAND=55133&pa > rtner=spamblockerutility> Upgrade Your Email - Click here! > _______________________________________________ > montejane at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From Emjaxfl at aol.com Sun Oct 7 21:26:23 2007 From: Emjaxfl at aol.com (Emjaxfl at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 23:26:23 EDT Subject: [Mgs] vibration Message-ID: Look at your u-joints and wheel bearings? Eric ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 8 02:00:42 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:00:42 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Electrical system questions References: <003a01c80915$ebeab590$c3c020b0$@net> Message-ID: <009701c80981$e8f80a60$0200a8c0@Three> 1. Correct, single-circuit cars had a small 4-way brake pipe union with a hydraulic brake light switch screwed in to that. Early dual circuit systems had a larger union with the failure switch, the brake light switch was screwed into the pedal box. The mechanical switch is a 'normally closed' type, i.e. when the brake pedal is pressed it releases the switch to close the circuit and light the lights, and vice-versa. You have to be careful with these switches - if they aren't screwed in far enough the lights will stay on all the time. But if they are screwed in too far it stops the pedal coming back as far as it should, and hence the piston in the master doesn't clear the bypass port in the cylinder, so when the hydraulic fluid gets hot and expands it can't escape up into the reservoir, but locks the brakes on instead. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > 1) ... In > the same vicinity are two wires not connected to anything, one green with > one of the female bullet receptacles on it and the other green/purple with > a > bullet connector on it. According to my schematic, those are the two > wires > that should go into the stoplamp switch. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 8 02:04:46 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:04:46 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] vibration References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> Message-ID: <009901c80981$e9338cc0$0200a8c0@Three> Sounds like UJs to me too, I don't think wheel bearing would show much difference between accelerating and steady speed, certainly compared to UJs.. Do they have grease nipples? They can fail suddenly, one half of the front UJ suddenly seized on my V8, and I was suddenly aware of the gearlever moving up and down slightly, more noticeable at lower speeds. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I am getting a vibration as I accelerate. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 8 02:01:23 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:01:23 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Electrical system questions References: <003a01c80915$ebeab590$c3c020b0$@net> Message-ID: <009801c80981$e9149310$0200a8c0@Three> 2. The green/white will only be flashing if the lights are flashing. Most people plump for a bad ground, but that is only one connection out of the many in the circuit, and this could still be a bad ground. It depends what wattage your test-lamp bulb is as to whether it would start them flashing or not if the problem were a bad ground. If you use a pukka test-lamp tool then it is highly unlikely to make any significant difference as their wattage is so low, you would have to use a 6W, 10W or higher. It could be a bad connection in the turn switch, the connectors by the steering column, the bullet connectors by the fusebox, the bullet connectors by the lamps, the lamps in the lamp holders, the connection between the 'tin-plate' bulb-holder and the body of the lamp unit, or finally the connection between the lamp unit and the ground. Fortunately (for testing) the current drawn by the lamps is quite high which means that any bad connection causing the lamps to stop flashing one side will cause a noticeable difference in voltage between the sides. If you bypass the flasher unit so that *both* sides flash but don't glow, then test with a volt-meter along the points I mention with respect to the same known good ground, look for any voltage differences between the sides that suddenly appear part-way through the circuit. If you get right to the bulb connections without finding any, then test between the bulb-holder and body of the lamp unit and your known good ground, this time with the volt-meter sensitivity turned up (if it is an analogue meter). The voltage now should be zero, and voltage shown is a bad connection, again compare the sides. Chrome bumper cars didn't use ground wires for the lamp clusters but relied on their physical fixings to the wing. The front is exposed to the elements, but even the rear can get problems. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > 2) Right hand turn signal doesn't flash, it is steady on. The left hand > side flashes as it should. When the hazards are turned on, both sides > flash > as they should. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 8 05:56:15 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 07:56:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Poly Bushings References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> Message-ID: <004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, I've purchased a polyurethane bushing kit, made in U.K. by Energy Suspension, for the front suspension of my '72 MGB. The present "bearing" in the upper trunnion appears to have a steel sleeve in rubber. I have not yet pressed it out. Is this steel sleeve to be reused with the four poly bushings or are the poly bushings alone to be pressed into the trunnion? Thanks, Ed Woods From ptrmgb at gmail.com Mon Oct 8 08:33:24 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2007 09:33:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Poly Bushings In-Reply-To: <004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> <004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <470A3FB4.5000408@gmail.com> No, you don't need it with the Energy Suspension. Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > I've purchased a polyurethane bushing kit, made in U.K. by Energy > Suspension, for the front suspension of my '72 MGB. The present "bearing" in > the upper trunnion appears to have a steel sleeve in rubber. I have not yet > pressed it out. > > Is this steel sleeve to be reused with the four poly bushings or are the > poly bushings alone to be pressed into the trunnion? > > Thanks, > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From schultejim at msn.com Mon Oct 8 08:34:18 2007 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2007 10:34:18 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] FW: REF: Photographer Message-ID: Does anyone have a source for a Panoramic Photographer. Jim Schulte Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D. Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club Co-Coordinator MG 2008 Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler >From: raymond blaisse >To: schultejim at msn.com >Subject: REF: Photographer >Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 06:38:54 -0700 (PDT) > >Jim, >Just a reminder about finding a Panorama Photographer. >Ray From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 8 08:40:08 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 15:40:08 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Poly Bushings References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> <004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <002b01c809b9$3386a140$0200a8c0@Three> If the bushes are a snug fit over the pin then no, as the shoulder on the pin acts as the 'distance tube'. Neither the Workshop Manual or the Parts Catalogue show a tube separate to the bushes, unlike the distance tube for the bottom trunnion. So if the poly bushes need one it should have been supplied. In my experience the tube rusts solidly onto the pin, which needs cutting through inside both arms of the damper, and even then some force to get the remains out of the trunnion, which then needs a fitting-kit for reassembly. Watch these, as for many years the special pin was supplied with a Nyloc nut, which is totally wrong for the application as the end of the pin doesn't even reach the end of the nut, let alone have the required three threads minimum sticking through. It needs a castellated nut, and a low-profile one at that. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I've purchased a polyurethane bushing kit, made in U.K. by Energy > Suspension, for the front suspension of my '72 MGB. The present "bearing" > in > the upper trunnion appears to have a steel sleeve in rubber. I have not > yet > pressed it out. > > Is this steel sleeve to be reused with the four poly bushings or are the > poly bushings alone to be pressed into the trunnion? From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Mon Oct 8 10:21:46 2007 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:21:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Head Gasket Sealer Message-ID: <006501c809c7$52f9e5b0$6501a8c0@XPS400> Hello again, I am ready to install my rebuild head on my 1800 MGB engine. Both the head and block have been surfaced to insure they are flat. I have the Payen head gasket. I have never used this type of gasket before. It has small inset copper rings around the water and oil holes. There is still some depressed corrosion eroded areas around the water holes in the block with rough surfaces. I am concerned that the small copper rings in the gasket might not be big enough to seal these holes. Should I use some type of gasket sealer? And if so, which one? Thanks for any advise. Ron Fine 66 MGB 61 BN7 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Oct 8 12:44:22 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 11:44:22 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] vibration In-Reply-To: <009901c80981$e9338cc0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> <009901c80981$e9338cc0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Read the OP again >>It occurs while standing at a stop or accelerating at speed. It is more noticeable a low speed or standing. (bolding and underlining mine) You have some kind of strange U-joints on your MG if they produce a vibration while not moving. Check the motor mounts and trans mounts, both can fail without warning and give a vibration both while standing and accelerating. Rick On 10/8/07, Paul Hunt wrote: > > Sounds like UJs to me too, I don't think wheel bearing would show much > difference between accelerating and steady speed, certainly compared to > UJs.. Do they have grease nipples? They can fail suddenly, one half of > the > front UJ suddenly seized on my V8, and I was suddenly aware of the > gearlever > moving up and down slightly, more noticeable at lower speeds. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > >I am getting a vibration as I accelerate. > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From Weberstevej at aol.com Mon Oct 8 15:07:21 2007 From: Weberstevej at aol.com (Weberstevej at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 17:07:21 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Mgs [Vibration] Message-ID: > I am getting a vibration........ Richard, If you're getting vibrations while at a standing stop, with the clutch depr essed, that should eliminate any drive train issues. (i.e. wheel bearings, u-joints, rear end, etc.) I assume then that the frequency of vibration increases and decreases with engine speed, again at a standing stop. I would check to make sure that the fan and all of its blades are all fully intact, and not cracked or missing. I would also check your fan belts to make sure there are no chunks missing and are in good working order. You could run the engine, for a short period of time ( a minute or so ) with the fan belt removed. If the vibration is still there, then you have eliminated the fan, water pump and alternator, i.e.anything driven by the belt as the source of vibration. Steve ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Oct 8 15:07:35 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 17:07:35 EDT Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B Message-ID: In a message dated 10/6/2007 7:58:14 PM Mountain Daylight Time, shop at justbrits.com writes: <> Just send the dizzy to Jeff at Advance and have it re-built (I think around $165) and live a nice life with points and ENJOY the "as new" car, Paul. And keep the K.I.S.S. Rule!! Ed _______________________________________________ Just got my "new" dist. from Jeff this morning. It arrived Saturday, but I was in the mountains hanging dry wall. I just hope I can get a few minutes off the lawn mower this afternoon to put it in! Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Oct 8 15:18:09 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 17:18:09 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine Message-ID: In a message dated 10/7/2007 1:00:38 PM Mountain Daylight Time, WSpohn4 at aol.com writes: Did the MGB 1.8L get enlarged to 2.0 and be fitted with DHC and turbo and plonked in another BL machine? This I was told - but is it true? No The A type 1275 got turbo'd in the Marina.... Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Mon Oct 8 15:25:23 2007 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 23:25:23 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] vibration References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich><009901c80981$e9338cc0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <00b801c809f1$bc8a2ec0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c> Transmounts are prone to detoriate, while these sometimes are covered regulary with leaking oil. Had this with my GT. The gearbox mount rubbers were replaced as were the gaskets of both the engine and gearbox. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Ewald" To: "Paul Hunt" Cc: Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:44 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] vibration > Read the OP again >>>It occurs while standing at a stop or > accelerating at speed. It is more noticeable a low speed or standing. > (bolding and underlining mine) > > You have some kind of strange U-joints on your MG if they produce a > vibration while not moving. > > Check the motor mounts and trans mounts, both can fail without warning and > give a vibration both while standing and accelerating. > > Rick > > On 10/8/07, Paul Hunt wrote: >> >> Sounds like UJs to me too, I don't think wheel bearing would show much >> difference between accelerating and steady speed, certainly compared to >> UJs.. Do they have grease nipples? They can fail suddenly, one half of >> the >> front UJ suddenly seized on my V8, and I was suddenly aware of the >> gearlever >> moving up and down slightly, more noticeable at lower speeds. >> >> PaulH. From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Oct 8 16:00:46 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 18:00:46 EDT Subject: [Mgs] vibration Message-ID: In a message dated 10/8/2007 12:44:51 PM Mountain Daylight Time, richard.ewald at gmail.com writes: Check the motor mounts and trans mounts, both can fail without warning and give a vibration both while standing and accelerating. Also, did you hit any bumps or pot holes? The exhaust pipe/muffler/tail pipe can rattle against the body causing this. Also, check the generator/alternator. Mine was loose and sometimes rubbed the bonnet giving similar syptoms. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk Mon Oct 8 16:13:43 2007 From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 18:13:43 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] FW: REF: Photographer References: Message-ID: <003a01c809f8$7d214190$6501a8c0@RicksPC> Jim http://www.panphoto.com/IAPP_photographers.php Alpha listing of panaoramic Photogs. Just look for one in the area of Philadelphia. Rick Webmaster for: ___________________________________________________________ http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr - The North American MGB Register http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil - North American Council of MG Registers http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature Coast English Car Club ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Schulte" To: Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 10:34 Subject: [Mgs] FW: REF: Photographer > Does anyone have a source for a Panoramic Photographer. > Jim Schulte > Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D. > Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club > Co-Coordinator MG 2008 > Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Mon Oct 8 21:02:42 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:02:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: REF: Photographer References: Message-ID: <026301c80a20$dc3b1570$6601a8c0@actualshop> <> Have you check with Kevin or Rob Valentine, Jim?? Or are they too close?? LOL From carcentric at yahoo.com Mon Oct 8 21:56:00 2007 From: carcentric at yahoo.com (M D Nugent) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 20:56:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Magnette ZA and ZB bonnets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <704140.61063.qm@web33710.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does anyone know if there is a way to tell whether the bonnet I have is from a ZA or a ZB? Of course, if they are the same, that would be good to know, too. There is a pic of it at http://www.carcentric.com/magnettebonnetRF.jpg Thanks, M D "Doc" Nugent - http://www.carcentric.com Seattle area From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 8 22:09:52 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 23:09:52 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] TD transmission problem Message-ID: My 1950 TD has trouble going into 3rd. (note this is not something it just started doing but has been a problem ever since I assembled the car) I pulled the transmission cover and discovered the striking dog doesn't pull back far enough onto third gear. If I pull back on the shaft with my fingers, it moves back and clicks into place fully engaging. I just can't do it with the shift lever. All the remote control components seem to travel freely but the lever reaches max before the dog moves far enough. As I to measure and look at it, it appears that the 3rd/4th shifter shaft is too long and hits the back of the shifter case. It also appears that the shifter case has a spot just for this.I can see the imprint of the shaft end on the case. I can tell the unit has been worked on because it has a different bolt than the square headed one holding the selector on. Can anyone tell me the distance between the back of the 3rd/4th shift selector and the end of the shaft? Mine is 7/16ths. How much of a pain would it be to take some off the end of the shaft? I read in the manual that later TDs had a circle clip added to the other end of the shaft. I also wonder if I have a later shaft and an early case. I don't know why I would need the stop on the case if their is a clip stopping the shifter travel. Any advise or other ideas? Mike From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 9 01:54:32 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 08:54:32 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Head Gasket Sealer References: <006501c809c7$52f9e5b0$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <018501c80a4a$ea3a0df0$0200a8c0@Three> I used Wellseal on my V8, but that was with steel shim head gaskets. Are Payen composite? In that case it is a different process altogether. My Scimitar GTE had these and more recently a friends Midget 1500. The process there is completely the opposite and to make sure both head and block surfaces are scrupulously clean. Then fit the head and torque down normally. Then run the engine with no coolant until it gets quite warm to the touch, not red-hot. Then allow it to cool overnight, retorque (by backing off each nut in turn to get it moving then up to torque), fill with *water* i.e. not anti-freeze solution but don't fit the radiator cap, then run again to Normal on the gauge. Then allow it to cool overnight again, retorque the same way as before, drain, fill with the appropriate quantity of neat antifreeze, top up with water, fit the cap, and away you go. If Payen aren't composite disregard all the above ... PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I am ready to install my rebuild head on my 1800 MGB engine. Both the > head > and block have been surfaced to insure they are flat. I have the Payen > head > gasket... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 9 02:05:22 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 09:05:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine References: Message-ID: <01ca01c80a4d$03f8dda0$0200a8c0@Three> It did in what the UK called the MG Metro i.e. what replaced the original Mini and became the Rover 100. But I thought the American Marina was the same body shape as the UK which was only exported there in 1800 form. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The A type 1275 got turbo'd in the Marina.... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 9 02:07:13 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 09:07:13 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] vibration References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> <009901c80981$e9338cc0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <01cb01c80a4d$04217440$0200a8c0@Three> Oooops. But text effects don't come through. ----- Original Message ----- > Read the OP again >>>It occurs while standing at a stop or > accelerating at speed. It is more noticeable a low speed or standing. > (bolding and underlining mine) From John.Hed at faa.gov Tue Oct 9 05:00:58 2007 From: John.Hed at faa.gov (John.Hed at faa.gov) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 04:00:58 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 10/09/2007 and will not return until 10/19/2007. I am out on foreign travel and will be back in the office on Monday Oct 22. I will have intermittent email access. If emergency, call my cell: 253-334-6779. It should work over there! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 9 05:23:18 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:23:18 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 References: Message-ID: <021d01c80a68$90d035a0$0200a8c0@Three> So what? ----- Original Message ----- From: >I will be out of the office starting 10/09/2007 and will not return until > 10/19/2007. From RampantNM at aol.com Tue Oct 9 10:09:24 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:09:24 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine Message-ID: In a message dated 10/9/2007 2:19:07 AM Mountain Daylight Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: It did in what the UK called the MG Metro i.e. what replaced the original Mini and became the Rover 100. But I thought the American Marina was the same body shape as the UK which was only exported there in 1800 form. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The A type 1275 got turbo'd in the Marina.... Ah, Marina, Metro...one of those M words....the Spridget guys use these parts to turbo the 1275. Couldn't you use the Marina parts to turbo an MGB? Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 9 10:28:13 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:28:13 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine References: Message-ID: <008101c80a91$67624bd0$0200a8c0@Three> Whilst Rover turboed several engines in the MMM series none of them were closely related to the B-series in the MGB, although those in the Maestro and Montego were descended from it. But anything is possible, given enough time and money. Moss (at least) does a supercharger for the B. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Ah, Marina, Metro...one of those M words....the Spridget guys use these parts to turbo the 1275. Couldn't you use the Marina parts to turbo an MGB? From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com Tue Oct 9 10:34:51 2007 From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:34:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB turbo? (Was:Re:MGB engine) In-Reply-To: <008101c80a91$67624bd0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <008101c80a91$67624bd0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Back in the 80s, Moss made -- or at least advertised -- a turbo kit for the MGB. I have a catalog somewhere with the kit shown. Anybody know more about the moss turbo B? Anybody ever see one? Matt On 9 Oct, 2007, at 12:28 PM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Whilst Rover turboed several engines in the MMM series none of them > were closely related to the B-series in the MGB, although those in > the Maestro and Montego were descended from it. But anything is > possible, given enough time and money. Moss (at least) does a > supercharger for the B. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- Ah, Marina, Metro...one of those M > words....the Spridget guys use these > parts to turbo the 1275. Couldn't you use the Marina parts to > turbo an MGB? From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Tue Oct 9 15:57:23 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 16:57:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 References: Message-ID: <00af01c80abf$60489560$6601a8c0@actualshop> <> Since you asked Paul, hope you "enjoy" seeing the exact same e-mail EVERY time someone posts to the List. Just plain rude, IMO. Ed From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Oct 9 13:43:32 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:43:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Magnette ZA and ZB bonnets In-Reply-To: <704140.61063.qm@web33710.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE112@kb1.mossmotors.com> Doc: I believe the ZA and ZB bonnets are interchangeable. At least, I have a 56 ZA bonnet sitting on my 58 ZB and it seems to fit up just fine. So I don't know of any identification differences. The ZB Varitone bonnet will have a line of holes for trim right where the radius of the bonnet changes to meet the fender radius. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of M D Nugent > Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:56 PM > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Magnette ZA and ZB bonnets > > Does anyone know if there is a way to tell whether the bonnet I have is > from a ZA or a ZB? Of course, if they are the same, that would be good > to know, too. > > There is a pic of it at http://www.carcentric.com/magnettebonnetRF.jpg > > Thanks, > > M D "Doc" Nugent - http://www.carcentric.com > Seattle area > _______________________________________________ > doddk at mossmotors.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Oct 9 15:58:39 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 14:58:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE14C@kb1.mossmotors.com> Barrie: Here is an image of the development MGB fitted with O series engine. The car is over here in the states and the photo was taken at a car show. The engine fits very well and in production form was going to be fuel injected. I believe that this was part of the Aston Martin takeover project that failed. Sorry to list members, the image is going to be stripped. Maybe Barrie can put it up somewhere. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson > Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 1:34 PM > To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine > > Folks, > > It seems there was an engine developed from the "B" engine through > another version ("O" ?). It was the Rover T16 and did go to 2.0L with > turbo....but would it drop into an MGB? Probably a little > difficult. It could put out 200bhp and some went to 800bhp (owwww!) > > > > Did the MGB 1.8L get enlarged to 2.0 and be fitted with DHC and turbo > and plonked in another BL machine? This I was told - but is it true? > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of O Series MGB 2.jpeg] From eric at erickson.on.net Wed Oct 10 09:29:30 2007 From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 00:59:30 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE14C@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE14C@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <529545A6-51CD-47E6-8361-DB3EABDEF6BE@erickson.on.net> On 10/10/2007, at 7:28 AM, Dodd, Kelvin wrote: > > Sorry to list members, the image is going to be stripped. Maybe Barrie > can put it up somewhere. > > > Tease!! Eric From shop at justbrits.com Tue Oct 9 14:46:23 2007 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 15:46:23 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 References: <021d01c80a68$90d035a0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <00af01c80ab5$755719e0$6601a8c0@actualshop> <> Since you asked Paul, hope you "enjoy" seeing the exact same e-mail EVERY time someone posts to the List. Just plain rude, IMO. Ed From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Oct 10 09:52:07 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:52:07 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 References: <00af01c80abf$60489560$6601a8c0@actualshop> Message-ID: <01be01c80b55$daba7e80$0200a8c0@Three> The thing is I have only seen it once, and the list was modified to stop auto-replies being sent to the list after a fiasco some years ago. It seemed to me that this person had *posted* it to the list, hence the 'so what'. ----- Original Message ----- > Since you asked Paul, hope you "enjoy" seeing the exact same e-mail EVERY > time > someone posts to the List. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Wed Oct 10 09:49:24 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:49:24 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE14C@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <01bd01c80b55$da9dcec0$0200a8c0@Three> The O-series was intended for the MGB for the 1975 model year, but wasn't put into production for the same political reasons that led to the MGB being scrapped in preference to the TR7 - http://www.austin-rover.co.uk/index.htm?engineoseriesf.htm. It was used in the Ital/Marina, SD1, Ambassador, Maestro, Montego, and was developed into the M-series twin-cam and the T-series, which delivered nearly 200 bhp. I'm aware of a couple of MGBs with these ... ----- Original Message ----- > Here is an image of the development MGB fitted with O series engine. The > car is over here in the states and the photo was taken at a car show. > > The engine fits very well and in production form was going to be fuel > injected. I believe that this was part of the Aston Martin takeover > project that failed. From 1971mgb at cox.net Wed Oct 10 10:03:31 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:03:31 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine Message-ID: <008b01c80b57$1aea1d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> I was reading up on MGB's the other day and someone mentioned a "gold sealed engine" for the uninitiated what does that mean? From Emjaxfl at aol.com Wed Oct 10 10:11:08 2007 From: Emjaxfl at aol.com (Emjaxfl at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:11:08 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine Message-ID: IIRC, there were two versions of the O series engine, one with FI and one with carburetors. Either would have passed US regulations without catalytic converters but, as Paul stated, BL politics prevented. Too bad, as power output was approx. 95 with carbs and 115 with FI in the O series versus 63 in the B series. There were (two?) MGB test mules with O series in the US. Eric in Fla. 74 MGB ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Oct 10 10:28:52 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 09:28:52 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: <008b01c80b57$1aea1d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE1BF@kb1.mossmotors.com> The factory offered rebuilt components on the replacement/aftermarket. These were later sold under the Unipart banner. My understanding is as follows (please enlighten me if I get anything wrong): Gold Seal assemblies were assembled using all new wearing components. Silver Seal assemblies were assembled with inspected used components. The components were (you guessed it) painted in either gold or silver (pretty ugly) to indicate the quality. Can you imagine opening the bonnet of your nicely painted car to see a badly painted gold engine sitting there? Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb > Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 9:04 AM > To: MG LIST > Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine > > I was reading up on MGB's the other day and someone mentioned a "gold > sealed > engine" for the uninitiated what does that mean? > _______________________________________________ From palte at gmx.net Tue Oct 9 12:46:39 2007 From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2007 20:46:39 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 In-Reply-To: <021d01c80a68$90d035a0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <021d01c80a68$90d035a0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <20071009184639.226640@gmx.net> > So what? Probably a reminder that Dan H.'s Day is coming up? :-) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > >I will be out of the office starting 10/09/2007 and will not return > until > > 10/19/2007. > _______________________________________________ -- GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS. Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail From leylandauto at yahoo.com Wed Oct 10 10:38:18 2007 From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 09:38:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: <008b01c80b57$1aea1d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <374575.48858.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> It was the factory new or rebuilt engines that would be used for warranty replacement etc. The blocks were painted gold 1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote: I was reading up on MGB's the other day and someone mentioned a "gold sealed engine" for the uninitiated what does that mean? _______________________________________________ leylandauto at yahoo.com --------------------------------- Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. From r.gosling at penspen.com Wed Oct 10 10:27:53 2007 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 17:27:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF736@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> AFAIK, I think a Gold Seal engine originally meant a complete engine supplied by MG as a spare part (and painted gold, not red). It also seems to be used these days by some engine rebuilders to refer to a professionally rebuilt engine. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) From doddk at mossmotors.com Wed Oct 10 10:47:55 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 09:47:55 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB turbo? (Was:Re:MGB engine) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE1CF@kb1.mossmotors.com> The turbo conversion sold by Moss Motors was manufactured by Arkay Engineering of Gardena and Hawthorne, CA. The company offered kits for a range of vehicles including the MGB and VW Vanagon. There are a number of hits on the name in various VW lists. This was before my time at Moss, but I remember the kits showing up in the catalogs. I asked a co-worker and his memory was that there were issues with the kit and the designers were not very forthcoming with technical assistance, so the product was dropped. This is very different from the current Supercharger program which is totally in-house, relying only on outside manufacturers for the Eaton blower unit. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt Trebelhorn > Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:35 AM > To: MGS List > Subject: [Mgs] MGB turbo? (Was:Re:MGB engine) > > Back in the 80s, Moss made -- or at least advertised -- a turbo kit > for the MGB. > > I have a catalog somewhere with the kit shown. > > Anybody know more about the moss turbo B? Anybody ever see one? > > Matt From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 10 11:31:14 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 10:31:14 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE1BF@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: Yeah, thankfully my car isn't nicely painted, and the oil leaking from the rocker cover has pretty much obliterated the gold color, anyway... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/10/07 9:28 AM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote: > The factory offered rebuilt components on the replacement/aftermarket. > These were later sold under the Unipart banner. > > My understanding is as follows (please enlighten me if I get anything > wrong): > > Gold Seal assemblies were assembled using all new wearing components. > > Silver Seal assemblies were assembled with inspected used components. > > > > The components were (you guessed it) painted in either gold or silver > (pretty ugly) to indicate the quality. > > > Can you imagine opening the bonnet of your nicely painted car to see a > badly painted gold engine sitting there? > > > > > > Kelvin Dodd > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- >> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb >> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 9:04 AM >> To: MG LIST >> Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine >> >> I was reading up on MGB's the other day and someone mentioned a "gold >> sealed >> engine" for the uninitiated what does that mean? From Aeseeyou at aol.com Wed Oct 10 11:58:23 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 13:58:23 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB turbo? (Was:Re:MGB engine) Message-ID: In a message dated 10/10/2007 9:48:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes: This is very different from the current Supercharger program which is totally in-house, relying only on outside manufacturers for the Eaton blower unit. I've had the opportunity to see the Moss Motors supercharger in action twice and if Kelvin hadn't told me about how it originated and of it's development program, I would bet the farm that it was originally built and installed at the MGB Factory. The build spec's are absolutely seamless! I must commend Moss Motors and their R & D personnel for the incredible spot-on work they've done on the Eaton Supercharger unit.....YES! BTW-- has anyone seen the latest replacement grilles for MGA's that Moss now offers? WOW! Talk about 7776666666666666666666666 excellent workmanship. As a journeyman sheet metal worker and CNC programmer I can attest that the Moss MGA grille is as good or better than they were originally. Moss Motors and Kelvin Dodd really sets the bar high and the level of excellence must be met or they're rejected. Believe me Moss Motors won't accept nor market anything less that the best possible product/No exceptions! -=Safety Fast=- Albert Escalante CCBCC-West Coast. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Aeseeyou at aol.com Wed Oct 10 12:09:30 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:09:30 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGB turbo? (Was:Re:MGB engine) Message-ID: Opps! I don't know where the weird succession of digits " 777666666666666666666666" originated but it had absolutely nothing to do with the review I that I'd submitted... So Solly, Cholly! Albert Escalante CCBCC~West Coast ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 10 12:32:26 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 13:32:26 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] TD transmission question continued. Message-ID: <9456904F-23EB-4831-B45C-41EF6CD5AB38@sbcglobal.net> Can anyone with an early TD transmission send me the dimension for how far the 3rd/4th selector shaft extends from the selector? Mine is 7/16th and I think that is an incorrect amount. The early transmission did not have a shaft that ran into the remote housing. I think someone took a later shaft cut it off and got the length wrong. I can send a picture if you need it. thanks, MIke From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 10 12:12:49 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 11:12:49 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB turbo? (Was:Re:MGB engine) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I assumed it was an editorial contribution from your cat... ;-) -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/10/07 11:09 AM, Aeseeyou at aol.com at Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > Opps! > I don't know where the weird succession of digits " > 777666666666666666666666" originated but it had absolutely nothing to do with > the review I that I'd > submitted... > So Solly, Cholly! > Albert Escalante CCBCC~West Coast From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Oct 10 13:57:15 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:57:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE1BF@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <835271.35570.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> "Dodd, Kelvin" wrote: The factory offered rebuilt components on the replacement/aftermarket. These were later sold under the Unipart banner. My understanding is as follows (please enlighten me if I get anything wrong): Gold Seal assemblies were assembled using all new wearing components. Several pics in this thread - http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,647442 Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Wed Oct 10 14:18:26 2007 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 13:18:26 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: <835271.35570.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE1BF@kb1.mossmotors.com> <835271.35570.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <40b437200710101318n71088c7eq4c27d8cbf74c30e4@mail.gmail.com> The blue in this picture seems a little odd to me: http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/file.php?1,file=28211 Could it be a fake Gold Seal engine? Simon From ddarby at centurytel.net Wed Oct 10 17:49:41 2007 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:49:41 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 References: <021d01c80a68$90d035a0$0200a8c0@Three> <20071009184639.226640@gmx.net> Message-ID: <002c01c80b98$3af83a20$2e01a8c0@YOURDC3E0B8F38> That must have been ten years ago or so. What was that feller's name? Dan Haines, Haymes, Hines??? That was back in dial-up days, but my screen was flashing every nano second with another message explaining Dan's whereabouts. Somehow I was able to get in an exit command and clear out before the whole thing came crashing down. One thing we were all convinced of was that Dan was out of the office. Seems like it was 11 December, does anyone remember the date? Cheers, David I'll be in for the rest of the day... From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Oct 10 20:07:44 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 22:07:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Poly Bushings in MGB upper trunnion References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> <004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <470A3FB4.5000408@gmail.com> Message-ID: <009d01c80bab$83496e80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Paul, This evening I pressed out the two rubber bushings in the upper trunnion, the pieces that fit between the shock arms. Each half had a steel sleeve which fit snugly over the shouldered bolt that binds all this stuff. The same bolt fits loosely into the poly bushings, at least when the poly bushings are not installed in the trunnion. The steel sleeve, which I cut from the rubber, appears too large in diameter to fit inside the poly bushings, although the generic instructions specifically say to reuse them. This sleeve is also a much closer fit to the shouldered bolt than the poly bush. If the poly bushings are to be fitted w/o a sleeve, it would appear that their loose fit on the bolt would defeat the purpose of using them: to tighten up the suspension. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ed From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Oct 10 21:21:34 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 22:21:34 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Poly Bushings in MGB upper trunnion In-Reply-To: <009d01c80bab$83496e80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> <004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <470A3FB4.5000408@gmail.com> <009d01c80bab$83496e80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <9FA174D3-9441-4222-AD6E-49AD88F0A7CC@gmail.com> I'd say if the instructions say to use them, that you should use them. I think I missed that this was the upper trunnion before. I was thinking the a-arms. Which the V8 bushes have them but not the poly. On Oct 10, 2007, at 9:07 PM, Ed Woods wrote: > Paul, > > This evening I pressed out the two rubber bushings in the upper > trunnion, the pieces that fit between the shock arms. Each half had > a steel sleeve which fit snugly over the shouldered bolt that binds > all this stuff. The same bolt fits loosely into the poly bushings, > at least when the poly bushings are not installed in the trunnion. > The steel sleeve, which I cut from the rubber, appears too large in > diameter to fit inside the poly bushings, although the generic > instructions specifically say to reuse them. This sleeve is also a > much closer fit to the shouldered bolt than the poly bush. > > If the poly bushings are to be fitted w/o a sleeve, it would appear > that their loose fit on the bolt would defeat the purpose of using > them: to tighten up the suspension. > > Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > > Ed Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Wed Oct 10 22:42:28 2007 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 22:42:28 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Poly Bushings in MGB upper trunnion In-Reply-To: <009d01c80bab$83496e80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12C49@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I would suspect wrong bushings or bolt. The poly bushings do not use the sleeve and the bolt should be a snug fit. I have changed two pairs of front shocks to the poly bushings. It's a snug but not overly tight fit but it also makes for a much easier removal of the bolt at a later time - whereas it's a bear with the old rubber bushings. As I recall, the diameter of the hole in the poly bushings is a bit smaller than the a-arm bushings but otherwise they look similar. I may have some extras in the garage that I could measure if I get a chance tomorrow. David Councill 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 8:08 PM To: Paul Root Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Poly Bushings in MGB upper trunnion Paul, This evening I pressed out the two rubber bushings in the upper trunnion, the pieces that fit between the shock arms. Each half had a steel sleeve which fit snugly over the shouldered bolt that binds all this stuff. The same bolt fits loosely into the poly bushings, at least when the poly bushings are not installed in the trunnion. The steel sleeve, which I cut from the rubber, appears too large in diameter to fit inside the poly bushings, although the generic instructions specifically say to reuse them. This sleeve is also a much closer fit to the shouldered bolt than the poly bush. If the poly bushings are to be fitted w/o a sleeve, it would appear that their loose fit on the bolt would defeat the purpose of using them: to tighten up the suspension. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ed From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 11 02:20:47 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:20:47 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine References: <008b01c80b57$1aea1d70$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <00ce01c80be0$5dd921b0$0200a8c0@Three> It's 'Gold Seal', and is a factory reconditioned replacement engine, painted gold instead of red or black. My understanding is this was a complete engine that had been, for whatever reason, stripped, every component checked for damage and measured for tolerance, and rebuilt using new components where required. As such Gold Seal engines were said to be better than originals, for with originals parts from the component manufacturers were fitted as-is without being checked or measured and hence rogue components could get through and cause problems later on. There were also Silver Seal engines, which I think were 'short' engines i.e. incomplete, no connection I know of with an American company of the same name. Gold Seal engines have their own series of engine number prefixes beginning 48G and latterly BHM in place of the 18G, 18Gx and 18V of the originals. The other prefix and suffix letters were as for the originals. See http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_engineframe.htm and click on 'Gold Seal Engines' for how the Gold Seal prefixes relate to the originals. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I was reading up on MGB's the other day and someone mentioned a "gold >sealed > engine" for the uninitiated what does that mean? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 11 02:31:01 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:31:01 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Poly Bushings in MGB upper trunnion References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich><004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><470A3FB4.5000408@gmail.com> <009d01c80bab$83496e80$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <010001c80be2$778023a0$0200a8c0@Three> Press the steel sleeves in the poly bushes before pressing the poly bushes into the trunnion, seems to be the way to go. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... The steel sleeve, which I cut > from the rubber, appears too large in diameter to fit inside the poly > bushings, although the generic instructions specifically say to reuse > them. > This sleeve is also a much closer fit to the shouldered bolt than the poly > bush. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 11 02:26:06 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:26:06 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 References: <021d01c80a68$90d035a0$0200a8c0@Three><20071009184639.226640@gmx.net> <002c01c80b98$3af83a20$2e01a8c0@YOURDC3E0B8F38> Message-ID: <00ff01c80be2$775ee000$0200a8c0@Three> I remember the Dan as well but not his family name. I also remember the first anniversary being celebrated. I hope I'm wrong, but I also seem to recall he, or possibly another Dan, was killed in a car accident not long after. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > That must have been ten years ago or so. What was that feller's name? Dan > Haines, Haymes, Hines??? From zymmer4 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 11 07:55:05 2007 From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 06:55:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] US Gold Seal Engines(no MG content) Message-ID: <317246.19204.qm@web51307.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Greetings, I seem to remember that, back in the 50's, i saw what was known as "Gold Seal Engines" being used in America as high quality replacement engines in applications that used the Chrysler Company flat head 6 cylinder engines. Applications were varied such as use in cars, farm equipment, large generators, irrigation pump engines, etc. The "Gold Seal Engines" had a gold painted cylinder head. The next rung lower on their quality standard was referred to as Red Head. Both were known as better engines than the originals. Howard Gentry 1976 MG-B roadster The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. http://sims.yahoo.com/ From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 11 08:06:27 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:06:27 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] even less MG content References: <317246.19204.qm@web51307.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <017401c80c10$cc015ab0$0200a8c0@Three> Developed by slaves ... who had good reason to be blue ... ----- Original Message ----- > The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. From derek at vandivere.net Thu Oct 11 08:49:04 2007 From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:49:04 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Mgs] even less MG content In-Reply-To: <017401c80c10$cc015ab0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <317246.19204.qm@web51307.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <017401c80c10$cc015ab0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <12444.62.140.137.30.1192114144.squirrel@vandivere.net> Well, New Orleans had a whole lot of free blacks and Creoles as well. Not such an impact on the development of the blues (which developed after slavery), but certainly with jazz (the Creoles, for example, pulled in a lot of 'classical' influences). But if you're going to count the blues as original, you should also include ragtime, jazz, rock and roll, and hip hop. dersk, '78 B > Developed by slaves ... who had good reason to be blue ... > > ----- Original Message ----- >> The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 11 08:59:34 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 07:59:34 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: <00ce01c80be0$5dd921b0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: What is odd is that the used engine which I put into my MGB was alleged to be a Gold Seal engine; it was painted gold, and it had a BHM number plate, but the number is not on the list on this page, or the list in the "Original MGB" book. So I've always been puzzled as to where it came from. It is a high compression engine without air injection ports -- seemingly an 18GB replacement. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/11/07 1:20 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > It's 'Gold Seal', and is a factory reconditioned replacement engine, painted > gold instead of red or black. My understanding is this was a complete > engine that had been, for whatever reason, stripped, every component checked > for damage and measured for tolerance, and rebuilt using new components > where required. As such Gold Seal engines were said to be better than > originals, for with originals parts from the component manufacturers were > fitted as-is without being checked or measured and hence rogue components > could get through and cause problems later on. There were also Silver Seal > engines, which I think were 'short' engines i.e. incomplete, no connection I > know of with an American company of the same name. Gold Seal engines have > their own series of engine number prefixes beginning 48G and latterly BHM in > place of the 18G, 18Gx and 18V of the originals. The other prefix and > suffix letters were as for the originals. See > http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_engineframe.htm and click on 'Gold Seal > Engines' for how the Gold Seal prefixes relate to the originals. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> I was reading up on MGB's the other day and someone mentioned a "gold >> sealed >> engine" for the uninitiated what does that mean? From paul at ece.rochester.edu Thu Oct 11 09:19:47 2007 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:19:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Max, what is the # on your block? >What is odd is that the used engine which I put into my MGB was alleged to >be a Gold Seal engine; it was painted gold, and it had a BHM number plate, >but the number is not on the list on this page, or the list in the "Original >MGB" book. So I've always been puzzled as to where it came from. > >It is a high compression engine without air injection ports -- seemingly an >18GB replacement. > >-- > >Max Heim >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >If you're near Mountain View, CA, >it's the primer red one with chrome wires -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 11 09:18:54 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:18:54 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine References: Message-ID: <018b01c80c1b$4dc22ac0$0200a8c0@Three> You will see from Clausager that BHM prefixes were only used on replacements for rubber bumper MGB engines, way after the 18GB. They were also used for other applications like Marina and Sherpa van to name just two, which were high compression without air injection ports i.e. same as UK MGBs. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > What is odd is that the used engine which I put into my MGB was alleged to > be a Gold Seal engine; it was painted gold, and it had a BHM number plate, > but the number is not on the list on this page, or the list in the > "Original > MGB" book. So I've always been puzzled as to where it came from. > > It is a high compression engine without air injection ports -- seemingly > an > 18GB replacement. From Aeseeyou at aol.com Thu Oct 11 09:30:34 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:30:34 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content Message-ID: What about Rock 'n Roll? The rebellious child of the Blues that refused to be enslaved and instead went on to "Rock the Whole World!" Nothing like it for driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! Albert Escalante CCBCC-Left Coast ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mgbob at juno.com Thu Oct 11 09:44:17 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:44:17 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine Message-ID: <20071011.114417.3152.5.MGBOB@juno.com> On Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:20:47 +0100 "Paul Hunt" writes: > It's 'Gold Seal', and is a factory reconditioned replacement engine, > painted > gold instead of red or black. My understanding is this was a > complete > engine that had been, for whatever reason, stripped, every component > checked > for damage and measured for tolerance, and rebuilt using new > components > where required. As such Gold Seal engines were said to be better > than > originals, for with originals parts from the component manufacturers > were > fitted as-is without being checked or measured and hence rogue > components > could get through and cause problems later on. There were also > Silver Seal > engines, which I think were 'short' engines i.e. incomplete, no > connection I > know of with an American company of the same name. Gold Seal > engines have > their own series of engine number prefixes beginning 48G and > latterly BHM in > place of the 18G, 18Gx and 18V of the originals. The other prefix > and > suffix letters were as for the originals. See > http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_engineframe.htm and click on 'Gold > Seal > Engines' for how the Gold Seal prefixes relate to the originals. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > >I was reading up on MGB's the other day and someone mentioned a > "gold > >sealed > > engine" for the uninitiated what does that mean? > _______________________________________________ > mgbob at juno.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 11 09:49:54 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:49:54 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content References: Message-ID: <01c501c80c1f$816134d0$0200a8c0@Three> Or what's left of our hair, for those who were around at the time ... ----- Original Message ----- > ... Nothing like it for > driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 11 09:48:48 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:48:48 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CBBE1BF@kb1.mossmotors.com><835271.35570.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <40b437200710101318n71088c7eq4c27d8cbf74c30e4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <01c401c80c1f$81423b20$0200a8c0@Three> I'd be very suspicious of this, apart from the ratty tapping of orifices (orifii?) the gold colour is very wrong compared to my engine. This engine has been assembled, taped and sprayed and I'm pretty sure the factory didn't do them like that any more than they did the originals like that. I remember seeing new engines with the head and rocker cover gaskets unpainted, i.e. either they were 'assembled' without gaskets and sprayed, or the individual parts were sprayed then assembled with gaskets. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The blue in this picture seems a little odd to me: > http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/file.php?1,file=28211 > > Could it be a fake Gold Seal engine? From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 11 11:01:43 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:01:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: BHM 1109-228E It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was apparently driven to CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non-smog motor with dual DCOEs, headers); and since the East Coast body was worthless in CA, it was sold to British Motorsports in Campbell, who parted it out. I happened to call the same day looking for an engine, since my teardown had just revealed a cracked main cap, among other issues. Supposedly this engine had less than 10K miles -- they opened up the bottom end and replaced the mains as insurance, but said it looked like new. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/11/07 8:19 AM, Paul Osborne at paul at ece.rochester.edu wrote: > Max, what is the # on your block? > > >> What is odd is that the used engine which I put into my MGB was alleged to >> be a Gold Seal engine; it was painted gold, and it had a BHM number plate, >> but the number is not on the list on this page, or the list in the "Original >> MGB" book. So I've always been puzzled as to where it came from. >> >> It is a high compression engine without air injection ports -- seemingly an >> 18GB replacement. >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires From WSpohn4 at aol.com Thu Oct 11 11:13:58 2007 From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 13:13:58 EDT Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine Message-ID: In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:10:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was apparently driven to CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non-smog motor with dual DCOEs, headers); ____________________________________ So it had a crossflow head on it? Bill S. From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 11 11:25:09 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:25:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: No... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/11/07 10:13 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:10:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was apparently driven to > CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non-smog motor > with dual DCOEs, headers); > > > > ____________________________________ > > > So it had a crossflow head on it? > > Bill S. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Oct 11 11:51:24 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:51:24 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Color me confused. If it did not have a crossflow head, how do you mount dual DCOEs on a 5 port head? Hell I used to sell Webers, and I have no clue. Rick On 10/11/07, Max Heim wrote: > > No... > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > on 10/11/07 10:13 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > > > > > In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:10:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > > > It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was apparently > driven to > > CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non-smog > motor > > with dual DCOEs, headers); > > > > > > > > ____________________________________ > > > > > > So it had a crossflow head on it? > > > > Bill S. > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From rocknatural at gmail.com Thu Oct 11 11:53:18 2007 From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:53:18 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <470E630E.9080105@gmail.com> Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > What about Rock 'n Roll? The rebellious child of the Blues that refused to > be enslaved and instead went on to "Rock the Whole World!" Nothing like it for > driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! > Albert Escalante CCBCC-Left Coast With a JJ Cale or Eric Clapton CD in the player. -The Roxter -- From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com Thu Oct 11 12:04:51 2007 From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 14:04:51 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <685973F2-8F2B-4C9D-B9DB-3471939A506F@trebelhorn.com> From: matt at trebelhorn.com Subject: Re: [Mgs] gold sealed engine Date: 11 October 2007 2:03:39 PM EDT To: richard.ewald at gmail.com Well, you could "split" each carb, so that you only used one throat from each. Don't laugh -- they actually do this on some race minis, so that each inlet manifold branch is straight, not curved. Pic (manifolds only, carbs not shown): http://tinyurl.com/2bxoyb Matt On 11 Oct, 2007, at 1:51 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Color me confused. If it did not have a crossflow head, how do you > mount > dual DCOEs on a 5 port head? Hell I used to sell Webers, and I > have no > clue. > > Rick > > On 10/11/07, Max Heim wrote: > >> >> No... >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> >> on 10/11/07 10:13 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: >> >> >>> >>> In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:10:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >>> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: >>> >>> It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was apparently >>> >> driven to >> >>> CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non- >>> smog >>> >> motor >> >>> with dual DCOEs, headers); >>> >>> ____________________________________ >>> >>> >>> So it had a crossflow head on it? >>> >>> Bill S. From ptrmgb at gmail.com Thu Oct 11 12:14:42 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 13:14:42 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There was a setup where you would run 2 DCOE's, one throat each going into the intake manifold and into the siamesed ports. This gave a straight shot for air/fuel to go into the cylinder head, and so a bit more power. On Oct 11, 2007, at 12:25 PM, Max Heim wrote: > No... > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > on 10/11/07 10:13 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > >> >> In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:10:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: >> >> It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was >> apparently driven to >> CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non- >> smog motor >> with dual DCOEs, headers); >> >> >> >> ____________________________________ >> >> >> So it had a crossflow head on it? >> >> Bill S. > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Paul Root ptrmgb at gmail.com 77 MGB 99 OBS From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 11 12:16:52 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:16:52 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have no idea. I only saw the setup for 10 minutes, 15 years ago. I just remember seeing 4 velocity stacks. They only sold me the block & head assembly. I didn't get the manifolds, headers, carbs, rocker cover, distributor, or other goodies. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/11/07 10:51 AM, Richard Ewald at richard.ewald at gmail.com wrote: > Color me confused. If it did not have a crossflow head, how do you mount > dual DCOEs on a 5 port head? Hell I used to sell Webers, and I have no > clue. > > Rick > > On 10/11/07, Max Heim wrote: >> >> No... >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> >> on 10/11/07 10:13 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: >> >>> >>> In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:10:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >>> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: >>> >>> It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was apparently >> driven to >>> CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non-smog >> motor >>> with dual DCOEs, headers); >>> >>> >>> >>> ____________________________________ >>> >>> >>> So it had a crossflow head on it? >>> >>> Bill S. From doddk at mossmotors.com Thu Oct 11 13:34:39 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:34:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CC8AE13@kb1.mossmotors.com> I had one of the split weber manifolds for an MGB back about 1993 that I ordered from Moss Europe. It looked like it was a good way of improving idle, part throttle and acceleration pump reaction. Then the new updated cross flow heads came out and I flogged the manifold to someone at the Pasadena swap meet in Southern California. Who knows, maybe that was the setup you saw. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Root > Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 11:15 AM > To: Max Heim > Cc: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] gold sealed engine > > There was a setup where you would run 2 DCOE's, one throat each going > into the intake manifold and into > the siamesed ports. This gave a straight shot for air/fuel to go into > the cylinder head, and so a bit more > power. > > On Oct 11, 2007, at 12:25 PM, Max Heim wrote: > > > No... > > > > > > -- > > > > Max Heim > > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > > > > > on 10/11/07 10:13 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote: > > > >> > >> In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:10:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > >> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > >> > >> It was a pull from a very rusty 1974 MGB-GT. The GT was > >> apparently driven to > >> CA from NJ, then the owner found he couldn't smog it in CA (non- > >> smog motor > >> with dual DCOEs, headers); From Aeseeyou at aol.com Thu Oct 11 13:47:32 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:47:32 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content Message-ID: In a message dated 10/11/2007 10:54:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rocknatural at gmail.com writes: Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > What about Rock 'n Roll? The rebellious child of the Blues that refused to > be enslaved and instead went on to "Rock the Whole World!" Nothing like it for > driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! > Albert Escalante CCBCC-Left Coast With a JJ Cale or Eric Clapton CD in the player. -The Roxter After Midnight! We're gonna let it all hang out..After Midnight! We're gonna all Jump and Shout! (etc,etc, etc!) After Midnight! Is probably one of the ten greatest Rock and Roll Songs of all time! Albert Escalante ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From RampantNM at aol.com Thu Oct 11 14:38:23 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:38:23 EDT Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 Message-ID: In a message dated 10/11/2007 2:41:56 AM Mountain Daylight Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: hope I'm wrong, but I also seem to recall he, or possibly another Dan, was killed in a car accident not long after. Possibly the Dan that was killed in Alaska when traveling with Barney Gaylord? MGBV8 as I remember. I think the story is still on Barney's web site. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From RampantNM at aol.com Thu Oct 11 14:41:28 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:41:28 EDT Subject: [Mgs] US Gold Seal Engines(no MG content) Message-ID: In a message dated 10/11/2007 7:55:33 AM Mountain Daylight Time, zymmer4 at yahoo.com writes: Howard Gentry 1976 MG-B roadster The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. So Hiawatha sung the blues????????????? Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From doddk at mossmotors.com Thu Oct 11 14:42:34 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 13:42:34 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CC8AE48@kb1.mossmotors.com> Nope. That was Dick Criswell who was killed on the Alaska run. He lived here in Southern California and I helped him work on his MGB GT V8. In fact it was my spare LE wheel you can see in the accident photos that he had strapped to the roof. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > RampantNM at aol.com > Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 1:38 PM > To: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk; ddarby at centurytel.net; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 > > In a message dated 10/11/2007 2:41:56 AM Mountain Daylight Time, > paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: > > hope I'm wrong, but I also seem to > recall he, or possibly another Dan, was killed in a car accident not long > after. > > > > Possibly the Dan that was killed in Alaska when traveling with Barney > Gaylord? MGBV8 as I remember. I think the story is still on Barney's > web > site. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > 63 TR4 > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Oct 11 16:18:04 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 18:18:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Gold Seal Engines References: Message-ID: <00a601c80c54$984f5020$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> This subject reminds me of a story.... Back in the spring of 1966, I bought my present '54 TF. It had been wrecked and stored in a warehouse in Savannah, GA for a number of years. I hauled the car back to Beaufort, SC and, since the engine was frozen and I had a rebuilt XPAG on hand, replaced the TF's with the +.080 rebuilt. The fact that the TF's engine was painted gold meant nothing to me at the time. I did transplant the gold head and the 1-1/2 inch carbs however. Back in Pittsburgh a year later, I found a buyer for the gold block. He pointed out that it was a 1500 cc XPEG unit. and gave me my asking price of $75 for it. My car is an early TF, not a 1500. So I can only assume that for some reason some previous owner had replaced the 1250 with a Gold Seal 1500. Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda. The red XPAG block with the gold head is still in my car 41 years later. Ed Woods From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 11 20:42:33 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 21:42:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil cooler hoses References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <000201c80c79$8caf3d50$800101df@Garage.local> fortunately, i have a sense of humor . . . after going through quarts of oil on my last trip, i get home and start looking. you can actually see the oil squirting out of the hose/connector out of the oil filter to the oil cooler. clearly it needs to be replaced! so, other than the wow factor, is there any reason to spend the extra dollars for the stainless steel lines? anyone have any evidence that they last longer? thanks! From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Oct 11 22:05:00 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 21:05:00 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil cooler hoses In-Reply-To: <000201c80c79$8caf3d50$800101df@Garage.local> References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91> <005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three> <000201c80c79$8caf3d50$800101df@Garage.local> Message-ID: Braided flex lines look way cool, but they can be a pain in the ass. The stainless steel braiding will act like a file against any thing it rubs against. Rubber, steel, wiring, it doesn't matter. So if you are going to use them, make damn sure they are not touching anything, and if they do, you will have to physically insulate them from rubbing against other important things. Rick On 10/11/07, oliver wrote: > > fortunately, i have a sense of humor . . . > > after going through quarts of oil on my last trip, i get home and start > looking. you can actually see the oil squirting out of the hose/connector > out of the oil filter to the oil cooler. clearly it needs to be replaced! > > so, other than the wow factor, is there any reason to spend the extra > dollars for the stainless steel lines? anyone have any evidence that they > last longer? > > thanks! > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Fri Oct 12 02:01:06 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 09:01:06 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] oil cooler hoses References: <004c01c7fc40$247ee170$9adee018@D95Y3D91><005401c7fc5d$810a9160$0200a8c0@Three><000201c80c79$8caf3d50$800101df@Garage.local> Message-ID: <000501c80ca6$2752c760$0200a8c0@Three> Slide a rubber sheath over them ... ----- Original Message ----- > Braided flex lines look way cool, but they can be a pain in the ass. The > stainless steel braiding will act like a file against any thing it rubs > against. Rubber, steel, wiring, it doesn't matter. > So if you are going to use them, make damn sure they are not touching > anything, and if they do, you will have to physically insulate them from > rubbing against other important things. From derek at vandivere.net Fri Oct 12 04:42:00 2007 From: derek at vandivere.net (derek at vandivere.net) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:42:00 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content In-Reply-To: <470E630E.9080105@gmail.com> References: <470E630E.9080105@gmail.com> Message-ID: <49394.83.79.140.232.1192185720.squirrel@vandivere.net> By the way, I was looking around to find what music came out in '78, so I could play some appropriate music while tooling around (I'm still not sure if this is a good idea or a pathetic one). Googling, I found http://www.mbgtop40.com. I swear it took several hours before I realized that it wasn't mgbtop40.com... > Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: >> What about Rock 'n Roll? The rebellious child of the Blues that refused >> to >> be enslaved and instead went on to "Rock the Whole World!" Nothing like >> it for >> driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! >> Albert Escalante CCBCC-Left Coast > With a JJ Cale or Eric Clapton CD in the player. > > -The Roxter > -- > _______________________________________________ > derek at vandivere.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From barneymg at mgaguru.com Fri Oct 12 04:48:49 2007 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 05:48:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is TDY. Back in on Monday 10/22 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20071012104912.132961879C9@autox.team.net> At 04:38 PM 10/11/2007 -0400, RampantNM at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 10/11/2007 2:41:56 AM Mountain Daylight Time, >paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes: > >>>hope I'm wrong, but I also seem to recall he, or possibly > another Dan, was killed in a car accident not long after. > >Possibly the Dan that was killed in Alaska when traveling with >Barney Gaylord? MGBV8 as I remember. I think the story is still on >Barney's web site. No, that was Dick Criswell killed in Alaska. The guy you're all chatting about was Dan Hughs. The constant message echoing on the email list wasn't his fault, just that the list server wasn't set up to catch it at the time. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From r.gosling at penspen.com Fri Oct 12 04:58:20 2007 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:58:20 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content References: <470E630E.9080105@gmail.com> <49394.83.79.140.232.1192185720.squirrel@vandivere.net> Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF73E@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> "I was looking around to find what music came out in '78, so I could play some appropriate music while tooling around (I'm still not sure if this is a good idea or a pathetic one)." Not a remotely pathetic idea - I compiled a whole CD of songs from '73 to play in Sammy (even made up some cover artwork with a picture of the car and some good swirly 70's-style lettering!). Led Zeppelin, Black Sabbath, Deep Purple, Hawkwind, Alice Cooper, Slade... oh yeah! I know a Spitfire owner on another forum who used to work as a DJ, so he created a whole pseudo radio show, with voiceovers, of songs from his car's year ('69 I think), that he could play in the car! Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From MGBGT71_NL at hotmail.com Fri Oct 12 11:06:54 2007 From: MGBGT71_NL at hotmail.com (MG B GT) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 19:06:54 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content References: Message-ID: Every now and then I do prefer the odd 'sex pistols' (never mind te bollocks) for a good balance of Britishness... Michel mgbgt 71 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 5:30 PM Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content > What about Rock 'n Roll? The rebellious child of the Blues that refused to > be enslaved and instead went on to "Rock the Whole World!" Nothing like it > for > driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! > Albert Escalante CCBCC-Left Coast From david_breneman at yahoo.com Fri Oct 12 12:18:35 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:18:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] oil cooler hoses In-Reply-To: <000201c80c79$8caf3d50$800101df@Garage.local> Message-ID: <707117.44505.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- oliver wrote: > so, other than the wow factor, is there any reason to spend the > extra > dollars for the stainless steel lines? anyone have any evidence > that they last longer? I had a local hydraulic equipment supply company make new oil cooler lines for my MGB when it needed them. This was in the late 70s and the MG dealers sold a new set for about $250. I had the set made for less than $50. They looked cool in a Soviet technology kind of way (big brass fittings and black rubber hoses) and lasted as long as I had the car, maybe another 8 years. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Fri Oct 12 13:12:34 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:12:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <727967.22277.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> MG B GT wrote: Every now and then I do prefer the odd 'sex pistols' (never mind te bollocks) for a good balance of Britishness... Michel mgbgt 71 ------------------- Anarchy for the UK! 30th anniversary of the release of 'Bollocks' this year. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From nory1 at adelphia.net Fri Oct 12 21:12:41 2007 From: nory1 at adelphia.net (Nory) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 23:12:41 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content Message-ID: <329EC213-DF15-48F6-A2F7-68080CEDF8FF@adelphia.net> This might help with what you're looking for--- http://www.tropicalglen.com/ -Nory > Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:42:00 +0200 (CEST) > From: derek at vandivere.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <49394.83.79.140.232.1192185720.squirrel at vandivere.net> > Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 > > By the way, I was looking around to find what music came out in > '78, so I > could play some appropriate music while tooling around (I'm still > not sure > if this is a good idea or a pathetic one). From ronking at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 12 21:25:11 2007 From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 20:25:11 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content References: <470E630E.9080105@gmail.com> <49394.83.79.140.232.1192185720.squirrel@vandivere.net> Message-ID: <017201c80d48$aa3ab640$6402a8c0@kingmanxp> Personally, my all time favorite tune for cruising is "Free Bird" by Lynard Skynard. Ron King '71 MGB ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 3:42 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content > By the way, I was looking around to find what music came out in '78, so I > could play some appropriate music while tooling around (I'm still not sure > if this is a good idea or a pathetic one). > > Googling, I found http://www.mbgtop40.com. I swear it took several hours > before I realized that it wasn't mgbtop40.com... > >> Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: >>> What about Rock 'n Roll? The rebellious child of the Blues that refused >>> to >>> be enslaved and instead went on to "Rock the Whole World!" Nothing like >>> it for >>> driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! >>> Albert Escalante CCBCC-Left Coast >> With a JJ Cale or Eric Clapton CD in the player. >> >> -The Roxter >> -- >> _______________________________________________ >> derek at vandivere.net >> >> Edit your replies >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > _______________________________________________ > ronking at sbcglobal.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From dcouncill at msubillings.edu Sat Oct 13 08:43:43 2007 From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David) Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 08:43:43 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content In-Reply-To: <017201c80d48$aa3ab640$6402a8c0@kingmanxp> References: <470E630E.9080105@gmail.com><49394.83.79.140.232.1192185720.squirrel@vandivere.net> <017201c80d48$aa3ab640$6402a8c0@kingmanxp> Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12C58@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> I stick almost entirely to British music from the era. I was raised on British music from the 60s, particularly the British blues invasion when musicians like Clapton, Page, Beck, Mayall, and Peter Green reintroduced blues back to the states. The last several years I started listening to folk music from the late 60s - stuff like Fairport Convention, Steeleye Span, Pentangle. And now I am on an "acid folk" kick with Stone Angel, Midwinter, the Trees, and other obscurities (maybe not so much in England). But still the stuff that would have been new when my 67 BGT and 72B first plied the roads. David Councill -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron King Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 9:25 PM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content Personally, my all time favorite tune for cruising is "Free Bird" by Lynard Skynard. Ron King '71 MGB ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 3:42 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content > By the way, I was looking around to find what music came out in '78, so I > could play some appropriate music while tooling around (I'm still not sure > if this is a good idea or a pathetic one). > > Googling, I found http://www.mbgtop40.com. I swear it took several hours > before I realized that it wasn't mgbtop40.com... > >> Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: >>> What about Rock 'n Roll? The rebellious child of the Blues that refused >>> to >>> be enslaved and instead went on to "Rock the Whole World!" Nothing like >>> it for >>> driving your MG with the top down and the wind blowing in your hair!! >>> Albert Escalante CCBCC-Left Coast >> With a JJ Cale or Eric Clapton CD in the player. >> >> -The Roxter From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sat Oct 13 08:51:26 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 15:51:26 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Some Rockin' MG content References: <470E630E.9080105@gmail.com><49394.83.79.140.232.1192185720.squirrel@vandivere.net><017201c80d48$aa3ab640$6402a8c0@kingmanxp> <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12C58@EXVS01.msubillings.edu> Message-ID: <012901c80daa$54437e90$0200a8c0@Three> This is getting like the infamous 'cat' thread. In this case the 'cool cat' thread? ----- Original Message ----- >I stick almost entirely to British music from the era... From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sat Oct 13 12:27:31 2007 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 11:27:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Lock Tabs or Loctite? Message-ID: <001501c80dc6$b7dba510$6501a8c0@XPS400> Hello, Getting ready to install the engine backing plate this morning I discovered that the lock tab set Moss sold me does not have the correct length lock tabs for 8 of the bolts. I could reuse the old ones but they don't look so healthy. Is it safe to just substitute high strength Loctite? Thanks for any advise. Ron Fine 66MGB 61 BN7 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sat Oct 13 15:39:42 2007 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 14:39:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Lock Tabs or Loctite? In-Reply-To: <001501c80dc6$b7dba510$6501a8c0@XPS400> References: <001501c80dc6$b7dba510$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: When properly applied and allowed to cure, Loctite is way more than adequate. I would strongly suggest that you use blue. If you put red on properly it will be stronger than a grade 8 bolt. On disassembly you will strip the fastener unless you can heat it to over 400F before the attempt. Rick On 10/13/07, Ron Fine wrote: > > Hello, Getting ready to install the engine backing plate this morning I > discovered that the lock tab set Moss sold me does not have the correct > length > lock tabs for 8 of the bolts. I could reuse the old ones but they don't > look > so healthy. Is it safe to just substitute high strength Loctite? > > Thanks for any advise. > > Ron Fine > 66MGB > 61 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > richard.ewald at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 15 08:51:08 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:51:08 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine References: Message-ID: <006c01c80f3b$ad87bba0$0200a8c0@Three> The Motor Heritage Centre reports: "I'm afraid I can't find a listing as to what specification engine BMH 1109 was a replacement for, I suspect it might be an overseas specification as I can find no mention of that number in our UK spec Gold Seal book, which is all we have." PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > BHM 1109-228E From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 15 09:30:57 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 08:30:57 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine In-Reply-To: <006c01c80f3b$ad87bba0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: Well, I guess New Jersey was overseas... Thanks for asking them. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/15/07 7:51 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > The Motor Heritage Centre reports: > > "I'm afraid I can't find a listing as to what specification engine BMH > 1109 was a replacement for, I suspect it might be an overseas > specification as I can find no mention of that number in our UK spec > Gold Seal book, which is all we have." > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> BHM 1109-228E From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Oct 15 10:17:12 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 12:17:12 EDT Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems Message-ID: OK, I've had a problem with the BGT overheating for some time. I drive about 25 miles one way to work. The car starts and runs fine, about 4-5 miles into the drive it hits 200 degrees..190 degree thermostat, aftermarket add on temp guage I ASSUME is correct. In the next 5-10 miles it bounces around 200 to 220 degrees, and for the last 5 miles pushes 230+. I end up coasting down hills to keep it under 220 until I get to work. I thought maybe it was a timing problem. So I bought a newly rebuilt distributor and installed it yesterday. I tried to be careful and keep the same orientation as the old distributor that had been set at 11 degrees BTDC. The car started well, and ran great, but in less than five miles was bumping 220! I have an appointment with a radiator shop to build me a new radiator, perhaps with more rows, and to move the pusher electric fan to a puller position. But he can't get the car in until the 23rd of October. By the way, I've noticeds a quirk in the electric fan. As I pull up to park and turn the engine off, I can hear the fan start up...as if it has not been running until I stop. Also, the temp probe for the fan is at the bottom of the radiator. Wouldn't it be more accurate at the top? TIA for any helpful suggestions. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From r.gosling at penspen.com Mon Oct 15 10:26:46 2007 From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:26:46 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems References: Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF744@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com> Has the radiator been flushed at all recently? There could be any amount of muck restricting the free flow of coolant. Just one of a number of possible remedies, but a cheap one to try first... Also, what's the drive like? Free-flowing or stop-start? In free-flowing traffic the fan shouldn't need to do any work, the forward motion of the car should be enough, so I wouldn't spend too much of my effort focussing on the fan unless your car spends significant time under 20mph. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT) ________________________________________________________________________ This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change. The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference. The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of the UK Companies Act 1985; PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770 19) (Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names of Penspen Limited) MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 537 8635 08) From mghirsch at netzero.net Mon Oct 15 10:35:19 2007 From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 11:35:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems Message-ID: <001101c80f49$6020ca10$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25> Just for giggles, wire the fan to run when the ignition is on and take a test drive. This will tell you if the problem is with the fan or elsewhere. Maynard From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Oct 15 10:43:45 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 09:43:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CC8B124@kb1.mossmotors.com> Robert: STOP! Do not pass go, do not go to the radiator shop. The stock MGB radiator is more than capable enough for the car. You don't have to go modifying the heck out of it. We run a supercharger and air conditioning on a 1973 MGB with totally stock radiator. It topped out at 215 degrees pulling a really steep grade outside of San Luis Obispo at 70 mph. The first thing I would do is get an infrared thermometer and use it to check that the thermostat is opening correctly. This will also check the accuracy of the add on gauge. The cooling fan whether mechanical or electric is only going to make a difference at low speeds. So if the car is overheating at normal driving speeds either the thermostat is not opening correctly, the radiator is clogged, or the engine has some major problems. Installing a super thick radiator is only addressing one possible problem, which is the plugged radiator. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > RampantNM at aol.com > Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:17 AM > To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems > > OK, I've had a problem with the BGT overheating for some time. I drive > about 25 miles one way to work. The car starts and runs fine, about 4-5 > miles > into the drive it hits 200 degrees..190 degree thermostat, aftermarket > add on > temp guage I ASSUME is correct. > > In the next 5-10 miles it bounces around 200 to 220 degrees, and for the > last 5 miles pushes 230+. I end up coasting down hills to keep it under > 220 > until I get to work. > > I thought maybe it was a timing problem. So I bought a newly rebuilt > distributor and installed it yesterday. I tried to be careful and keep > the > same > orientation as the old distributor that had been set at 11 degrees BTDC. > The > car started well, and ran great, but in less than five miles was bumping > 220! > > I have an appointment with a radiator shop to build me a new radiator, > perhaps with more rows, and to move the pusher electric fan to a puller > position. > But he can't get the car in until the 23rd of October. > > By the way, I've noticeds a quirk in the electric fan. As I pull up to > park > and turn the engine off, I can hear the fan start up...as if it has not > been > running until I stop. Also, the temp probe for the fan is at the bottom > of > the radiator. Wouldn't it be more accurate at the top? > > TIA for any helpful suggestions. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > 63 TR4 > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget From doddk at mossmotors.com Mon Oct 15 10:45:46 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 09:45:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Lock Tabs or Loctite? In-Reply-To: <001501c80dc6$b7dba510$6501a8c0@XPS400> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CC8B129@kb1.mossmotors.com> Ron: Can you give me specifics of the problem, so I can check it on this end, please. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine > Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 11:28 AM > To: MG List > Subject: [Mgs] Lock Tabs or Loctite? > > Hello, Getting ready to install the engine backing plate this morning I > discovered that the lock tab set Moss sold me does not have the correct > length > lock tabs for 8 of the bolts. I could reuse the old ones but they don't > look > so healthy. Is it safe to just substitute high strength Loctite? > > Thanks for any advise. > > Ron Fine > 66MGB > 61 BN7 From guinness at stclegal.com Mon Oct 15 10:55:43 2007 From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 11:55:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 1600 rear lamp wiring problem. Message-ID: <47139B8F.6040808@stclegal.com> I have a MGA 1600 whose rear lamps stay on after the car is turned off and the light switch is off.. It is both rear lamps (not the stop light or the turn signal). The front pilot lights do not stay on ( I believe they are on the same circuit as the rear lamps). When I disconnect the power cable from the battery (neg. on this pos. earth car) the lights go out. If I reconnect the battery power cable within 15 minutes or so the lights go on again. But if the battery power cable is disconnected for an hour or more, the rear lamps will not be on until I run the car for a while. Weird, isn't it? I might add that the fuel gauge seemed to go bad at about the same time. It read full constantly, but I cleaned off the connection at the sending unit and tightened it up. Now the fuel gauge stays at empty! Any insights you may have other than to replace the wiring harness (which I really should do anyway this winter) would be appreciated. -- Robert Guinness 1961 MGA 1600 From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Oct 15 11:03:12 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 13:03:12 EDT Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems Message-ID: In a message dated 10/15/2007 10:23:46 AM Mountain Daylight Time, r.gosling at penspen.com writes: Has the radiator been flushed at all recently? There could be any amount of muck restricting the free flow of coolant. Just one of a number of possible remedies, but a cheap one to try first... Also, what's the drive like? Free-flowing or stop-start? In free-flowing traffic the fan shouldn't need to do any work, the forward motion of the car should be enough, so I wouldn't spend too much of my effort focussing on the fan unless your car spends significant time under 20mph. Radiator was flused an checked a few months ago when we changed the engine. The drive is mostly freeway. First five miles has maybe 4 stop lights, and 3-4 at the other end, but most is 55-70 MPH freeway. One thing I forgot to mention yesterday, as I let off the gas and coasted to a stop at those first few lights, I had 3-4 large backfires through the muffler, with great clouds of smoke from each one. If I pushed in the clutch and let it idle as I coasted to the stop, the backfires did not occur. John Twist set the carbs in April, so they should still be spot on. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 15 11:16:23 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:16:23 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 1600 rear lamp wiring problem. In-Reply-To: <47139B8F.6040808@stclegal.com> Message-ID: Rear lamps, or brake lamps? I have had this happen with brake lamps due to problems with the switch (not on an MGA). on 10/15/07 9:55 AM, Robert J. Guinness at guinness at stclegal.com wrote: > I have a MGA 1600 whose rear lamps stay on after the car is turned off > and the light switch is off.. It is both rear lamps (not the stop light > or the turn signal). The front pilot lights do not stay on ( I believe > they are on the same circuit as the rear lamps). When I disconnect the > power cable from the battery (neg. on this pos. earth car) the lights go > out. If I reconnect the battery power cable within 15 minutes or so the > lights go on again. But if the battery power cable is disconnected for > an hour or more, the rear lamps will not be on until I run the car for a > while. Weird, isn't it? I might add that the fuel gauge seemed to go > bad at about the same time. It read full constantly, but I cleaned off > the connection at the sending unit and tightened it up. Now the fuel > gauge stays at empty! > > Any insights you may have other than to replace the wiring harness > (which I really should do anyway this winter) would be appreciated. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 15 11:21:34 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:21:34 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hmm, have you checked the compression lately? One ugly possibility is a blown head gasket. Also, your timing seemed a little advanced, which can cause hot running. I have to say I was curious why, if you thought it might be a timing problem, that you bought a new distributor and set it at exactly the same timing as the old one. I would have thought the logical first step would be to change the timing on the existing distributor. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/15/07 10:03 AM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/15/2007 10:23:46 AM Mountain Daylight Time, > r.gosling at penspen.com writes: > > Has the radiator been flushed at all recently? There could be any > amount of muck restricting the free flow of coolant. > > Just one of a number of possible remedies, but a cheap one to try > first... > > Also, what's the drive like? Free-flowing or stop-start? In > free-flowing traffic the fan shouldn't need to do any work, the forward > motion of the car should be enough, so I wouldn't spend too much of my > effort focussing on the fan unless your car spends significant time > under 20mph. > > > > > Radiator was flused an checked a few months ago when we changed the engine. > > The drive is mostly freeway. First five miles has maybe 4 stop lights, and > 3-4 at the other end, but most is 55-70 MPH freeway. > > One thing I forgot to mention yesterday, as I let off the gas and coasted to > a stop at those first few lights, I had 3-4 large backfires through the > muffler, with great clouds of smoke from each one. If I pushed in the clutch > and > let it idle as I coasted to the stop, the backfires did not occur. > > John Twist set the carbs in April, so they should still be spot on. > > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > 63 TR4 > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > > b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for > several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields From RampantNM at aol.com Mon Oct 15 11:28:31 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 13:28:31 EDT Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems Message-ID: In a message dated 10/15/2007 11:23:00 AM Mountain Daylight Time, max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: I have to say I was curious why, if you thought it might be a timing problem, that you bought a new distributor and set it at exactly the same timing as the old one. I would have thought the logical first step would be to change the timing on the existing distributor. The old vacum advance was toast, and I worried that if it was bad, the weights, springs and such might be just as bad, as they were just as old. The 11 degree BTDC is what's on the sticker on the car, near the bonnet latch. John Twist suggested 15 degrees BTDC at 1500 RPM. I'll try that next. As for the head gasket, wouldn't that cause water in the oil, or oil in the water, or some sort of contamination or at least water vapor smoke out the tail pipe? Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 15 11:49:07 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:49:07 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: on 10/15/07 10:28 AM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 10/15/2007 11:23:00 AM Mountain Daylight Time, > max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes: > > I > have to say I was curious why, if you thought it might be a timing problem, > that you bought a new distributor and set it at exactly the same timing as > the old one. I would have thought the logical first step would be to change > the timing on the existing distributor. > > > > The old vacum advance was toast, and I worried that if it was bad, the > weights, springs and such might be just as bad, as they were just as old. > The 11 > degree BTDC is what's on the sticker on the car, near the bonnet latch. OK, you didn't mention these issues. I was thinking a 74.5 would have less initial advance. But then, I think this distributor is set up for "vacuum retard", as opposed to the early ones. > > John Twist suggested 15 degrees BTDC at 1500 RPM. I'll try that next. > > As for the head gasket, wouldn't that cause water in the oil, or oil in the > water, or some sort of contamination or at least water vapor smoke out the > tail pipe? I was thinking you might have compression blowing into the water passages. I just encountered this, helping a fellow entrant in the California Melee. His 1951 Kaiser flathead 6 was overheating and blew a seam in the top tank. It wasn't a result of lack of cooling, but a blown head gasket pressurizing and heating the coolant. Following the car, one got a strong whiff of burning oil, but no visible smoke, except occasionally on overrun. This lack of smoke may have been partly due to being filled with pure water by this point (no antifreeze left). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > 63 TR4 > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > > Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for > several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields From mgb72 at airmail.net Mon Oct 15 16:44:12 2007 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:44:12 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003c01c80f7c$e8af19d0$ba0d4d70$@net> Robert, I would get a hold of a timing light a few degrees can make a huge difference. I know you said you tried to orient it the same but with a light you can be sure. Chad '72B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of RampantNM at aol.com Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 12:03 PM To: r.gosling at penspen.com; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] BGT problems In a message dated 10/15/2007 10:23:46 AM Mountain Daylight Time, r.gosling at penspen.com writes: Has the radiator been flushed at all recently? There could be any amount of muck restricting the free flow of coolant. Just one of a number of possible remedies, but a cheap one to try first... Also, what's the drive like? Free-flowing or stop-start? In free-flowing traffic the fan shouldn't need to do any work, the forward motion of the car should be enough, so I wouldn't spend too much of my effort focussing on the fan unless your car spends significant time under 20mph. Radiator was flused an checked a few months ago when we changed the engine. The drive is mostly freeway. First five miles has maybe 4 stop lights, and 3-4 at the other end, but most is 55-70 MPH freeway. One thing I forgot to mention yesterday, as I let off the gas and coasted to a stop at those first few lights, I had 3-4 large backfires through the muffler, with great clouds of smoke from each one. If I pushed in the clutch and let it idle as I coasted to the stop, the backfires did not occur. John Twist set the carbs in April, so they should still be spot on. Regards, Robert B. Houston 63 TR4 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields From mvrose at charter.net Mon Oct 15 19:52:35 2007 From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 18:52:35 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems References: Message-ID: <003501c80f97$3a3c2e40$aa43ba44@Primary> Robert, I have an electronic fan on my 1980 MGB that I have installed this spring. Sounds like you are getting some good advice and here is some additional information. My instructions directed me to install the probe 3-4 inches from the top radiator hose. I also run a 190 degree thermostat. I live on the desert in Washington state and run the car in 100 degree + temperature and have never experienced a heating problem. I hear the same noise you do when shutting down my engine but it is the sound of the fan winding down. Are you sure yours is starting up? If so recheck your wiring line up. In addition, it is very easy to reverse the air flow of the fan by switching the wires. Merl Rosenthal 1980 MGB ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:17 AM Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems > OK, I've had a problem with the BGT overheating for some time. I drive > about 25 miles one way to work. The car starts and runs fine, about 4-5 > miles > into the drive it hits 200 degrees..190 degree thermostat, aftermarket > add on > temp guage I ASSUME is correct. > > In the next 5-10 miles it bounces around 200 to 220 degrees, and for the > last 5 miles pushes 230+. I end up coasting down hills to keep it under > 220 > until I get to work. > > I thought maybe it was a timing problem. So I bought a newly rebuilt > distributor and installed it yesterday. I tried to be careful and keep > the > same > orientation as the old distributor that had been set at 11 degrees BTDC. > The > car started well, and ran great, but in less than five miles was bumping > 220! > > I have an appointment with a radiator shop to build me a new radiator, > perhaps with more rows, and to move the pusher electric fan to a puller > position. > But he can't get the car in until the 23rd of October. > > By the way, I've noticeds a quirk in the electric fan. As I pull up to > park > and turn the engine off, I can hear the fan start up...as if it has not > been > running until I stop. Also, the temp probe for the fan is at the bottom > of > the radiator. Wouldn't it be more accurate at the top? > > TIA for any helpful suggestions. > > Regards, > > Robert B. Houston > 63 TR4 > 74.5 MGBGT > 73 MG Midget > > b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew and > for > several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C Fields > > > > > ************************************** See what's new at > http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > mvrose at charter.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From james.nazarian at gmail.com Mon Oct 15 21:56:25 2007 From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:56:25 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] BGT problems In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CC8B124@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <005e01c80fa8$86db71f0$6400a8c0@theendindeed> FWIW, when I bought my VDO gauges for the V8 the temp gauge read about 40 degrees too hot. I confirmed it with two different thermometers and eventually pulled the needle off the gauge and reinstalled it with correct location. James ?-----Original Message----- ?From: mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net ?[mailto:mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net] ?On Behalf Of Dodd, Kelvin ?Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 12:44 PM ?To: RampantNM at aol.com; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgs at autox.team.net ?Subject: Re: [Mgs] BGT problems ? ?Robert: ? ?STOP! Do not pass go, do not go to the radiator shop. ? ? ?The stock MGB radiator is more than capable enough for the ?car. You don't have to go modifying the heck out of it. ? ?We run a supercharger and air conditioning on a 1973 MGB with ?totally stock radiator. It topped out at 215 degrees pulling a ?really steep grade outside of San Luis Obispo at 70 mph. ? ?The first thing I would do is get an infrared thermometer and ?use it to check that the thermostat is opening correctly. This ?will also check the accuracy of the add on gauge. ? ?The cooling fan whether mechanical or electric is only going ?to make a difference at low speeds. So if the car is ?overheating at normal driving speeds either the thermostat is ?not opening correctly, the radiator is clogged, or the engine ?has some major problems. ? ? ?Installing a super thick radiator is only addressing one ?possible problem, which is the plugged radiator. ? ? ? ?Kelvin Dodd From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 16 01:47:39 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:47:39 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] gold sealed engine References: Message-ID: <00ac01c80fc8$f65fabc0$0200a8c0@Three> Yes, but it doesn't explain the BHM number, which only started to be used in late 74, but no air-injection ports, which North American engines had since 1968. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Well, I guess New Jersey was overseas... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 16 02:18:52 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:18:52 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] BGT problems References: Message-ID: <013701c80fd0$74358d60$0200a8c0@Three> Firstly it is not overheating if it isn't steaming or losing coolant, but it may well be running hotter than it should. You cannot change a distributor, keep the orientation the same, and expect the same timing. You must re-time it, and you should have checked the timing anyway. All MGB distributors are vacuum advance, the only difference is that prior to 1971 all cars had carb vacuum, after that North American cars used manifold vacuum. The difference is that with carb vacuum there is no advance applied at idle, only off idle. With manifold vacuum advance is applied at idle. But they both work the same way - the more the vacuum the more the advance. 2nd on all factory cars the electric fans went off with the ignition, so you have an after-market or PO bodge. Ditto the sensor in the bottom hose, all factory cars had the sensor either in the head by the thermostat or the top of the radiator. Likewise you cannot assume a PO temp gauge is any more accurate than a factory gauge, and is more likely to be less accurate. Modern cars often have the temp gauge controlled by the ECU, which maintains a steady reading unless the engine temperature goes outside certain parameters. This is to prevent owners getting paranoid about small and normal temperature variations that the MGB shows. Do you still have the mechanical fan as well? If so check the orientation of the blades on that, and the orientation and direction of rotation of the electric fan. A friend has a 1980 MGB that seems to have had similar problems, as the PO fitted an engine mounted fan, bypassed the thermostatic switch, and all sorts, but it was still boiling over. The rad cap was only 7lb instead of 15, and when I pressure tested it was only resisting about 4 lb anyway. And the engine mounted fan was blowing the wrong way i.e. towards the radiator, but since it is so far away from it we decided to leave it where it is for the time being. Pt. 2 follows ----- Original Message ----- OK, I've had a problem with the BGT overheating for some time. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 16 02:19:34 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:19:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] BGT problems References: Message-ID: <013801c80fd0$74548710$0200a8c0@Three> Pt. 2. It sounds to me like the PO of this car had the problems you are having, and went to all sorts of trouble and expenditure to try and get round it, which you are in danger of repeating. Do NOT spend more money or replacing parts, diagnosis is key. MGBs run in desert states without overheating, there is a reason for what yours is doing, and that is a defect and not poor original design. And first of that is determining the actual coolant temperature for various given gauge readings to determine whether it is getting hotter than it should or the gauge is overreading, 230 is certainly way too hot - if that is what it is. If the coolant *is* getting up to that temperature, then the next thing is to check the timing, although whilst timing errors can cause hotter running I can't see it causing that much, without it being so far out that performance issues would be far more obvious. If it's a head gasket then I would expect coolant loss and frequent topping-up, and bubbles in the top of the radiator, which should be easily visible on a 74 1/2. Next thing is to look for cool spots on the radiator surface with an infra-red thermometer. Next is to compare the bottom hose temperature with the top. A big difference here (and I can't give you typicals) indicates a slow flow though the cooling system, which could be caused by blockages in either engine or rad (the latter should show up on the previous test) or a problem with the pump. I'm not sure of the details but I believe there is an incorrect combination of pump and engine that results in low coolant flow. This could also be due to a faulty thermostat, for the purposes of testing I'd run without one just to see what the temperature does then. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- OK, I've had a problem with the BGT overheating for some time. From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Tue Oct 16 07:50:01 2007 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 14:50:01 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGA 1600 rear lamp wiring problem. References: Message-ID: <003401c80ffb$74279c20$0c00a8c0@ClassicCarWorld.local> Robert it sounds like you may have a cross feed from another circuit. Have you tried to isolate the rear lights at the bullet connectors? Take the connectors apart and then re-assemble them in the order lights first then the rest of the connections (Indicators, stop lights) and see which if any brings on the tail lights. You're right that the front & rear lights are on the same circuit so you would expect the front lights to be on as well. Not unless your wiring has been modified at some point in its life. Good luck. Kindest Regards Tom Tom McCay (Director) Classic-Car-World Ltd Tel: 01522 888178 FAX: 0870 705 9115 E-Mail: tom at classic-car-world.co.uk URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk Now offering quality Sealey & Draper tools at discount prices, see www.ccw-tools.com for further details. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Heim" To: "MG List" Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 6:16 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 1600 rear lamp wiring problem. > Rear lamps, or brake lamps? > > I have had this happen with brake lamps due to problems with the switch > (not > on an MGA). > > on 10/15/07 9:55 AM, Robert J. Guinness at guinness at stclegal.com wrote: > >> I have a MGA 1600 whose rear lamps stay on after the car is turned off >> and the light switch is off.. It is both rear lamps (not the stop light >> or the turn signal). The front pilot lights do not stay on ( I believe >> they are on the same circuit as the rear lamps). When I disconnect the >> power cable from the battery (neg. on this pos. earth car) the lights go >> out. If I reconnect the battery power cable within 15 minutes or so the >> lights go on again. But if the battery power cable is disconnected for >> an hour or more, the rear lamps will not be on until I run the car for a >> while. Weird, isn't it? I might add that the fuel gauge seemed to go >> bad at about the same time. It read full constantly, but I cleaned off >> the connection at the sending unit and tightened it up. Now the fuel >> gauge stays at empty! >> >> Any insights you may have other than to replace the wiring harness >> (which I really should do anyway this winter) would be appreciated. From lrc at red4est.com Tue Oct 16 14:59:37 2007 From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 13:59:37 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] New British Car shop in Morgan Hill Message-ID: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com> A friend of mine is opening a british car restoration business in Morgan hill (South of San Jose) and mentioned that while he's got the body shop covered, he's looking for a good mechanic that knows MGs. I figure that there's one or two people on this list that might know somebody. He seems to be shopping for quality rather than price. Drop me a note for contact info. -- Too much of a good thing is better than too much of a bad thing. Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com http://www.red4est.com/lrc From ronking at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 16 21:02:30 2007 From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:02:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] New British Car shop in Morgan Hill References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com> Message-ID: <056f01c8106a$28bef480$6402a8c0@kingmanxp> Let me know how you feel about his work. I live in So. San Jose and Morgan Hill is closer to me than O'Connor's in Sunnyvale. Thanks Ron King '71 MGB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Colen" To: "MG LIST" Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 1:59 PM Subject: [Mgs] New British Car shop in Morgan Hill >A friend of mine is opening a british car restoration business in > Morgan hill (South of San Jose) and mentioned that while he's got the > body shop covered, he's looking for a good mechanic that knows MGs. I > figure that there's one or two people on this list that might know > somebody. He seems to be shopping for quality rather than price. > > Drop me a note for contact info. > > > -- > Too much of a good thing is better than too much of a bad thing. > Larry Colen lrc at red4est.com > http://www.red4est.com/lrc > _______________________________________________ > ronking at sbcglobal.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul at ece.rochester.edu Wed Oct 17 06:16:23 2007 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:16:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Rev gear Replacment In-Reply-To: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com> References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com> Message-ID: How difficult is it to replace the rev gear in a B overdrive transmission? -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From RampantNM at aol.com Wed Oct 17 09:59:19 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:59:19 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Thanks Message-ID: I want to thank everyone for the response to my overheating problem. I'll break out the timing light as soon as possible and see if I remember how to use it. Then I'll take the thermostat out and test it, and test the car with it both in and out. You do need a heater living were I live, but only in the early morning and late evening. You need an air conditioner practically every day here, or at least one day a week, even in the winter. What is the consensus on the blanking sleeve? Important, not important? I think I can borrow one of the infra red thermometers, or I'll break down and buy one at HF. I think I'll be going there for a flooring nailer shortly anyway, and a new blade for the tile saw. Again, thanks for all the advice, and I'll let everyone know as soon as I get to following it. Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Aeseeyou at aol.com Wed Oct 17 12:06:18 2007 From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:06:18 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! Message-ID: In an almost Deja Vu rerun of what happened when the TR4 upstaged the MGB and British-Leyland released the TR7 (TR8) before a new MG could replace the tired MGB (A "Bonehead" move which virtually killed off any hope that B-L had of taking back the lucrative import car market here in the States, especially the sports cars that had dominated the market since right after WW2. The TR7's and TR8's were a horrible flops! The public didn't like the "wedge look" and never accepted them. They sounded a death knoll to the proud British car empire that had been on top for so many years! But now Triumph seems ready to return once again. And now it appears possible that it might even upstage the "floundering" Chinese built Nanjing MGTF. Why? Because the Triumph will be built and marketed by the Mega-wealthy PR powerhouse, BMW...Remember the impressive way that BMW "sold" the new Mini to the nostalgic and extremely loyal followers of the "old" Mini? BMW never skipped a beat. The same is possible if BMW does a just fraction of the PR work for the new Triumph that it did before they released the "new" Mini. And now you see the "new" Minis everywhere! Beside which, the new Triumph really looks great! In fact it looks like a 21st Century TR4 ...the little roadsters pedigree is undeniable! To read more go to: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html Hey, I'd buy one! And if they're anywhere near as dependable as the BMW Mini the new Triumph should be a real threat to the Mazda MX5 or the Miata as the MX5 is known here in the Colonies. And if they use the BMW V-8 engine to power them.....Wow! Albert Escalante CCBCC-West Coast ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From atweditor at aol.com Wed Oct 17 12:16:49 2007 From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:16:49 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Trouble with Chinese fish? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C9DF0104DEEF50-414-8863@MBLK-M12.sysops.aol.com> This is seriously bad news.? First Triumph may come back, then we hear that Chinese flounders are getting in the way of the MGTF.? Unless, of course, it was "foundering" that was going on..... Anyone think that Triumph model looks just like the Pontiac Solstice from the rear, and a little like the new Thunderbird from the front? Jay Donoghue 72B-GT 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Aeseeyou at aol.com To: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 2:06 pm Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! In an almost Deja Vu rerun of what happened when the TR4 upstaged the MGB and British-Leyland released the TR7 (TR8) before a new MG could replace the tired MGB (A "Bonehead" move which virtually killed off any hope that B-L had of taking back the lucrative import car market here in the States, especially the sports cars that had dominated the market since right after WW2. The TR7's and TR8's were a horrible flops! The public didn't like the "wedge look" and never accepted them. They sounded a death knoll to the proud British car empire that had been on top for so many years! But now Triumph seems ready to return once again. And now it appears possible that it might even upstage the "floundering" Chinese built Nanjing MGTF. Why? Because the Triumph will be built and marketed by the Mega-wealthy PR powerhouse, BMW...Remember the impressive way that BMW "sold" the new Mini to the nostalgic and extremely loyal followers of the "old" Mini? BMW never skipped a beat. The same is possible if BMW does a just fraction of the PR work for the new Triumph that it did before they released the "new" Mini. And now you see the "new" Minis everywhere! Beside which, the new Triumph really looks great! In fact it looks like a 21st Century TR4 ...the little roadsters pedigree is undeniable! To read more go to: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html Hey, I'd buy one! And if they're anywhere near as dependable as the BMW Mini the new Triumph should be a real threat to the Mazda MX5 or the Miata as the MX5 is known here in the Colonies. And if they use the BMW V-8 engine to power them.....Wow! Albert Escalante CCBCC-West Coast ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com _______________________________________________ atweditor at aol.com Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 17 12:32:18 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:32:18 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hmm, pretty vague article. And I can't say that concept resembles a Triumph particularly -- it looks more like a Dodge Neon with a Cadillac grille. I'll believe this when I see it. Thanks for posting it, though. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/17/07 11:06 AM, Aeseeyou at aol.com at Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > In an almost Deja Vu rerun of what happened when the TR4 upstaged the MGB > and British-Leyland released the TR7 (TR8) before a new MG could replace the > tired MGB (A "Bonehead" move which virtually killed off any hope that B-L had > of taking back the lucrative import car market here in the States, especially > the sports cars that had dominated the market since right after WW2. > The TR7's and TR8's were a horrible flops! The public didn't like the "wedge > look" and never accepted them. They sounded a death knoll to the proud > British car empire that had been on top for so many years! > But now Triumph seems ready to return once again. And now it appears > possible that it might even upstage the "floundering" Chinese built Nanjing > MGTF. > Why? Because the Triumph will be built and marketed by the Mega-wealthy PR > powerhouse, BMW...Remember the impressive way that BMW "sold" the new Mini to > the > nostalgic and extremely loyal followers of the "old" Mini? BMW never > skipped a beat. The same is possible if BMW does a just fraction of the PR > work for > the new Triumph that it did before they released the "new" Mini. And now you > see the "new" Minis everywhere! > Beside which, the new Triumph really looks great! In fact it looks like a > 21st Century TR4 ...the little roadsters pedigree is undeniable! To read more > go to: > http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html > Hey, I'd buy one! And if they're anywhere near as dependable as the BMW Mini > the new Triumph should be a real threat to the Mazda MX5 or the Miata as the > MX5 is known here in the Colonies. And if they use the BMW V-8 engine to > power them.....Wow! > Albert Escalante CCBCC-West Coast From david_breneman at yahoo.com Wed Oct 17 12:59:06 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:59:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <69594.38901.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > Beside which, the new Triumph really looks great! In fact it looks > like a > 21st Century TR4 ...the little roadsters pedigree is undeniable! Funny, my first impression on seeing that picture a few days ago was "Well, it's certainly ugly enough to be a Triumph!" I assume that the great height of the front end is to accommodate the new European "pedestrian impact" regulations -- but what's with the Triumph *motocycle* logo on the license plate? Is BMW going to work in some sort of cross-promotional thing? David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Oct 17 12:30:45 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 13:30:45 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <471654D5.1070400@gmail.com> The front 3/4 view looks like a really bland new Thunderbird, with a different grill. I know I'm a minority, but I liked my TR7. Very modern compared to the B. And by '80, though it was too late for them, build quality was up. The MGTF convertible and coupe are much better looking. I keep hoping that the Oklahoma thing actually goes through. There is also a fabulous show car that Nanjing put out before they bought MG. It was called the tempest, and is meant to be a real successor to the A-H 3000. And now they have that name too. Could happen... Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > In an almost Deja Vu rerun of what happened when the TR4 upstaged the MGB > and British-Leyland released the TR7 (TR8) before a new MG could replace the > tired MGB (A "Bonehead" move which virtually killed off any hope that B-L had > of taking back the lucrative import car market here in the States, especially > the sports cars that had dominated the market since right after WW2. > The TR7's and TR8's were a horrible flops! The public didn't like the "wedge > look" and never accepted them. They sounded a death knoll to the proud > British car empire that had been on top for so many years! > But now Triumph seems ready to return once again. And now it appears > possible that it might even upstage the "floundering" Chinese built Nanjing MGTF. > Why? Because the Triumph will be built and marketed by the Mega-wealthy PR > powerhouse, BMW...Remember the impressive way that BMW "sold" the new Mini to the > nostalgic and extremely loyal followers of the "old" Mini? BMW never > skipped a beat. The same is possible if BMW does a just fraction of the PR work for > the new Triumph that it did before they released the "new" Mini. And now you > see the "new" Minis everywhere! > Beside which, the new Triumph really looks great! In fact it looks like a > 21st Century TR4 ...the little roadsters pedigree is undeniable! To read more > go to: > http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html > Hey, I'd buy one! And if they're anywhere near as dependable as the BMW Mini > the new Triumph should be a real threat to the Mazda MX5 or the Miata as the > MX5 is known here in the Colonies. And if they use the BMW V-8 engine to > power them.....Wow! > Albert Escalante CCBCC-West Coast > > > > > ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > ptrmgb at gmail.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From ptrmgb at gmail.com Wed Oct 17 12:31:46 2007 From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 13:31:46 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Trouble with Chinese fish? In-Reply-To: <8C9DF0104DEEF50-414-8863@MBLK-M12.sysops.aol.com> References: <8C9DF0104DEEF50-414-8863@MBLK-M12.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <47165512.1030709@gmail.com> Hey, I'm not the only one! Very bland. atweditor at aol.com wrote: > This is seriously bad news.? First Triumph may come back, then we hear that Chinese flounders are getting in the way of the MGTF.? Unless, of course, it was "foundering" that was going on..... > > Anyone think that Triumph model looks just like the Pontiac Solstice from the rear, and a little like the new Thunderbird from the front? > > Jay Donoghue > 72B-GT > 66 Mustang > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Aeseeyou at aol.com > To: mgs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 2:06 pm > Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! > > > > > > > > > > > In an almost Deja Vu rerun of what happened when the TR4 upstaged the MGB > and British-Leyland released the TR7 (TR8) before a new MG could replace the > tired MGB (A "Bonehead" move which virtually killed off any hope that B-L had > of taking back the lucrative import car market here in the States, especially > the sports cars that had dominated the market since right after WW2. > The TR7's and TR8's were a horrible flops! The public didn't like the "wedge > look" and never accepted them. They sounded a death knoll to the proud > British car empire that had been on top for so many years! > But now Triumph seems ready to return once again. And now it appears > possible that it might even upstage the "floundering" Chinese built Nanjing > MGTF. > Why? Because the Triumph will be built and marketed by the Mega-wealthy PR > powerhouse, BMW...Remember the impressive way that BMW "sold" the new Mini to > the > nostalgic and extremely loyal followers of the "old" Mini? BMW never > skipped a beat. The same is possible if BMW does a just fraction of the PR work > for > the new Triumph that it did before they released the "new" Mini. And now you > see the "new" Minis everywhere! > Beside which, the new Triumph really looks great! In fact it looks like a > 21st Century TR4 ...the little roadsters pedigree is undeniable! To read more > go to: > http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/210892/triumph.html > Hey, I'd buy one! And if they're anywhere near as dependable as the BMW Mini > the new Triumph should be a real threat to the Mazda MX5 or the Miata as the > MX5 is known here in the Colonies. And if they use the BMW V-8 engine to > power them.....Wow! > Albert Escalante CCBCC-West Coast From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Wed Oct 17 13:14:33 2007 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 15:14:33 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Trouble with Chinese fish? In-Reply-To: <47165512.1030709@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A81EB@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET> That photo has been circulating amongst Triumph enthusiasts -- the design, as I recall, was done by the magazine, and does not appear to be sanctioned in any way by BMW. That's probably why it has the motorcycle logo -- someone in the art department at the magazine probably didn't know any better. Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III www.TR-250.com Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From d_dibiase at yahoo.com Wed Oct 17 13:32:11 2007 From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:32:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <53818.7918.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Fugly! I almost hope Chris Bangle gets to mess around with it..... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - What's that smoke? '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is.... '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 17 13:40:20 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:40:20 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! In-Reply-To: <69594.38901.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Reading between the lines, this doesn't seem to be any kind of "official" concept -- it is a rendering commissioned by the magazine editors -- in other words, pure speculation. The logo is probably just a mistake on the part of the rendering artist. The car company and the motorcycle company have been separate since 1936. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 10/17/07 11:59 AM, David Breneman at david_breneman at yahoo.com wrote: > --- Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote: > >> Beside which, the new Triumph really looks great! In fact it looks >> like a >> 21st Century TR4 ...the little roadsters pedigree is undeniable! > > Funny, my first impression on seeing that picture a few days > ago was "Well, it's certainly ugly enough to be a Triumph!" > I assume that the great height of the front end is to accommodate > the new European "pedestrian impact" regulations -- but what's > with the Triumph *motocycle* logo on the license plate? Is > BMW going to work in some sort of cross-promotional thing? > > > David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Wed Oct 17 14:02:11 2007 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 16:02:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Mallory Distributor Message-ID: <47166A43.9090408@tampabay.rr.com> Listers, I have a new dual point Mallory dizzy on my shelf, # 2332001. What does it fit? TIA, Dave Houser From jello at ida.net Wed Oct 17 15:16:13 2007 From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 15:16:13 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] Mallory Distributor In-Reply-To: <47166A43.9090408@tampabay.rr.com> References: <47166A43.9090408@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: <3109.209.180.80.45.1192655773.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Nothing and everything. It probably needs a drive dog. These are highly adjustible distributors - if it's for a 4 cylinder, it will fit just about anything with 4 cylinders, but will need the right drive dog, the right hold down mechanism, and maybe a sleeve to fit ideally into a distributor hole. Many of these have been sold to replace the 45D and 25D lucas distributors that are common for MGB's (and many other cars). Phil > Listers, > I have a new dual point Mallory dizzy on my shelf, # 2332001. What does > it fit? > TIA, > Dave Houser > _______________________________________________ > jello at ida.net > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From RampantNM at aol.com Wed Oct 17 16:24:29 2007 From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 18:24:29 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Trouble with Chinese fish? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/17/2007 12:17:14 PM Mountain Daylight Time, atweditor at aol.com writes: Anyone think that Triumph model looks just like the Pontiac Solstice from the rear, and a little like the new Thunderbird from the front? The TR list folks seem to think it was photoshopped from either the Pontiac or Saturn, and used the side of a Z4...with a Triumph motorcycle logo.... Regards, Robert B. Houston 74.5 MGBGT 73 MG Midget As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Skinners Union carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop manual. ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From mgb72 at airmail.net Wed Oct 17 16:46:21 2007 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 17:46:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rev gear Replacment In-Reply-To: References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com> Message-ID: <000001c8110f$8a6ed4c0$9f4c7e40$@net> The overdrive unit really doesn't affect anything, it slides off as a whole unit. Replacing reverse will require disassembly of the transmission. So while you are in there I would plan on replacing the synchros and any bushings or bearings that look bad. The tranny is kind of a puzzle and it can only be assembled in order. Just take your time and pay attention to the instructions in the Bentley manual and you will be ok. Chad '72B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Osborne Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 7:16 AM To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Rev gear Replacment How difficult is it to replace the rev gear in a B overdrive transmission? -- Paul Osborne University of Rochester Engineering & Technical Services Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering 201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus Rochester, New York 14627 585-275-5226 paul at ece.rochester.edu From mgb72 at airmail.net Wed Oct 17 16:48:29 2007 From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 17:48:29 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mallory Distributor In-Reply-To: <47166A43.9090408@tampabay.rr.com> References: <47166A43.9090408@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: <000101c8110f$d6b7cad0$84276070$@net> The Mallory website has the info, they list their applications. Chad '72B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+mgb72=airmail.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave houser Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 3:02 PM To: MGs Subject: [Mgs] Mallory Distributor Listers, I have a new dual point Mallory dizzy on my shelf, # 2332001. What does it fit? TIA, Dave Houser From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 18 01:44:34 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 08:44:34 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Trouble with Chinese fish? References: <8C9DF0104DEEF50-414-8863@MBLK-M12.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <00e601c8115b$d8257a10$0200a8c0@Three> "Floundering" means flopping about all over the place and not getting anywhere. Like a fish on a deck, perhaps. "Foundering" is sinking, as in a ship going down. Perhaps either or both could be applied, but the former is what they intended at the moment, the latter may come later. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > This is seriously bad news.? First Triumph may come back, then we hear > that Chinese flounders are getting in the way of the MGTF.? Unless, of > course, it was "foundering" that was going on..... From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 18 01:51:22 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 08:51:22 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Oh No, Not Again! The Triumph might upstage MG's return! References: Message-ID: <00e701c8115b$d846e4c0$0200a8c0@Three> It talks about retro and compares it to the MINI. But whilst the MINI does have a passing resemblance to the old Mini this 'Triumph' doesn't bear the slightest resemblance to anything historic or British. Any neither has or will have anything under the skin that has the slightest connection to what went before. Auto Express is known as 'Auto Distress' in the UK for many reasons, showing the Triumph Motorcycle logo in connection with the totally unconnected car is an example of their 'professionalism'. But if BMW go ahead then it almost certainly will be a success overall. Whether it will be a success in the UK is another matter, it looks very 'American' to my eyes, and American cars have always bombed in the UK. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Why? Because the Triumph will be built and marketed by the Mega-wealthy > PR > powerhouse, BMW...Remember the impressive way that BMW "sold" the new > Mini to the > nostalgic and extremely loyal followers of the "old" Mini? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 18 02:46:19 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 09:46:19 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Thanks References: Message-ID: <018301c81164$3eb35100$0200a8c0@Three> I've see 'blanking sleeve' applied to two different things. One is on an A and possibly a 3-bearing B and restricts the flow of coolant through a port which bypasses the thermostat to give a quicker warm-up. I'm not sure whether this is relevant to 5-bearing Bs. The other is a restrictor used *in place of* the thermostat, to restrict the flow of coolant through the engine and radiator to that which would occur if a thermostat were fitted and fully open. These are often used by racers as the thermostat is superfluous but could stick closed. Running without one of these *or* a thermostat causes a greater coolant flow rate through the engine, which causes turbulence, which can result in local recirculation and hot-spots. But for the purposes of brief testing when looking into a possible hot running problem this restrictor isn't required, although one can be fashioned out of an old thermostat by removing the spring and pellet and just leaving the disc. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > What is the consensus on the blanking sleeve? Important, not important? From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com Thu Oct 18 07:40:32 2007 From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 09:40:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Mallory Distributor In-Reply-To: <3109.209.180.80.45.1192655773.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> References: <47166A43.9090408@tampabay.rr.com> <3109.209.180.80.45.1192655773.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Message-ID: <47176250.6000508@tampabay.rr.com> To all who responded to my query. This is great info. I have a choice whether my 53 TD, 60MGA Coupe or the 67 BGT gets the prize. will use the drive dog from the appropriate car. Cheeers, Dave Phil Bates wrote: >Nothing and everything. It probably needs a drive dog. These are highly >adjustible distributors - if it's for a 4 cylinder, it will fit just about >anything with 4 cylinders, but will need the right drive dog, the right >hold down mechanism, and maybe a sleeve to fit ideally into a distributor >hole. Many of these have been sold to replace the 45D and 25D lucas >distributors that are common for MGB's (and many other cars). > >Phil > > > >>Listers, >> I have a new dual point Mallory dizzy on my shelf, # 2332001. What does >>it fit? >>TIA, >>Dave Houser From barrie at look.ca Thu Oct 18 07:46:35 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 09:46:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Stainless steel tubing Message-ID: I am looking for 8-10 feet of 3" stainless steel tubing from which to fabricate an exhaust. It will be squeezed to 1" resulting in the same gas flow of 2.25". Has anyone got a source of reasonably priced stuff - I have been quoted $30 a foot !!!! Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm PURVEYOR of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs High-tech sound deadening materials .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs From doddk at mossmotors.com Thu Oct 18 10:31:43 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 09:31:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Thanks In-Reply-To: <018301c81164$3eb35100$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CC8B7CD@kb1.mossmotors.com> Paul: The current unit that Moss carries performs both services. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=58155&Sort Order=1 It restricts flow through the bypass passage (the passage is in all B series blocks) and also reduces the diameter of the thermostat mounting passage slightly giving the same diameter as a fully open thermostat. The current available unit is configured after the factory part number 11G176 as supplied on the factory race cars. I do not recommend using this on the street. I'd qualify it as a race only part though Moss is happy to sell them to anyone. I think the text I wrote for catalog and website gives a pretty accurate representation. Btw. The bypass passage in the B series engines is fairly small, so the effect on cooling from using this blanking sleeve or the original style bellows thermostat is pretty minor. Engines such as the Jaguar 3.8L and Triumph TR2-4 have much larger bypass passages and will get a significant improvement by using the bellows style blanking thermostat. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt > Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 1:46 AM > To: RampantNM at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Thanks > > I've see 'blanking sleeve' applied to two different things. One is on an > A > and possibly a 3-bearing B and restricts the flow of coolant through a > port > which bypasses the thermostat to give a quicker warm-up. I'm not sure > whether this is relevant to 5-bearing Bs. The other is a restrictor used > *in place of* the thermostat, to restrict the flow of coolant through the > engine and radiator to that which would occur if a thermostat were fitted > and fully open. These are often used by racers as the thermostat is > superfluous but could stick closed. Running without one of these *or* a > thermostat causes a greater coolant flow rate through the engine, which > causes turbulence, which can result in local recirculation and hot-spots. > But for the purposes of brief testing when looking into a possible hot > running problem this restrictor isn't required, although one can be > fashioned out of an old thermostat by removing the spring and pellet and > just leaving the disc. > > PaulH. From barrie at look.ca Thu Oct 18 22:22:07 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 00:22:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Stainless steel tubing Message-ID: This list is awesome. Thanks to a lister I am now in the possession (well shortly) of 10ft of SS 3" tube for only $114. Thank thank you one and all Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm PURVEYOR of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs High-tech sound deadening materials .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs From barrie at look.ca Fri Oct 19 14:08:32 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 16:08:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Cobra exhaust Message-ID: My buddy up the road who "crafted" a SS wiggly hose to get round my oil filter and sway-bar is now going to replace my exhaust with a "cobra" one. This is nothing more than squashed tube. This 1" high fat oval pipe will run under the chassis and connect to headers, and for over the axle to silencer (muffler) with a shaped connectors. This will give me an extra 1.25" clearance - (actually more because current one has ugh flanges) - so goodbye sleeping policemen!!! Is anyone interested in getting such a system - as he says he can make a couple while he is about it !??? Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm PURVEYOR of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs High-tech sound deadening materials .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs From dwoerpel at wi.net Sat Oct 20 05:12:54 2007 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 06:12:54 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] test Message-ID: <4719E2B6.5030005@wi.net> sorry, having problems sending mail From ccrobins at ktc.com Sat Oct 20 09:58:11 2007 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 10:58:11 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rear brake locked Message-ID: <471A2593.6010907@ktc.com> Hi Gang, I cranked up our '69 B one day last weekend and when I began to back it out of the garage it felt like the emergency brake hadn't completely released. So I get it into the driveway and move it forward. Hah! The brakes released. Hmmm, what happens if I reverse it? Did so. The rear brakes applied themselves. Well, I'll be... Went through several forward and back reiterations, same thing. Put it back in the garage and went in the other car. Did a little trouble shooting a few days later. Isolated the problem to the right rear brake. Pulled the drum expecting to find a broken spring on the trailing shoe but could find nothing wrong. Shoes look OK, drum isn't scored, etc. Since it was up on stands anyway, looked at the other side too. Same story. After reinstalling the drums, found that if the brakes are adjusted for a little drag when turned forward, they wanted to lock up when turned backwards, both sides. If backed off a notch, all OK. How 'bout dat? Thing is, if the adjustment is left the way it is, the E-brake doesn't hold worth spit. Now it's been a record rainfall year and we haven't driven the car much. Humidity has been pretty high but the car is usually garaged. Could it be that the brake shoes have soaked up a little moisture and are grabby as a result? About all I can figure to do is go for a long ride with some hard braking scattered about during it to dry things out, then readjust the rear brakes to see what happens. Anyone else ever run into something like this? Cheers, CR From ddarby at centurytel.net Sat Oct 20 10:15:05 2007 From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 11:15:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rear brake locked References: <471A2593.6010907@ktc.com> Message-ID: <002401c81334$61625300$2e01a8c0@YOURDC3E0B8F38> Charles, I once had a very similar situation with an MGB, and eventually found that the culprit was the rear flex hose just beginning to deteriorate internally and acting as a (not very efficient) check valve. YMMV. Cheers, David From wsthompson at thicko.com Sun Oct 21 06:38:32 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 07:38:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 projects update Message-ID: <001c01c813df$4c2cfa70$e486ef50$@com> Hey y'all, I've got confirmation that Mary (the widow that sold me a Bugeye and the 4 raccoon pooh laden parts cars) has confirmed that she and her son will participate in SOS '07. She kept one Bugeye because her son wanted a car that his late father had owned, and she kept the MKI Midget that she and her husband had their first date in. That car has been sitting many years. We'll trailer the car over from Madison to the Dream Farm, and assess the overall condition. We'll see if we can get it running, shifting, starting and stopping. essentially make a drivable vehicle for her. We have numerous other projects on tap. We'll have some special guests, some great food, and as always, broadcast the event in real time with 2 way audience communication via Yahoo Messenger. SOS '07 is held at the Dream Farm (between Fond du Lac and Oshkosh, WI) on Fri & Sat after Thanksgiving. WST Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii wsthompson at thicko.com www.thicko.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Oct 21 07:51:03 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 14:51:03 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Rear brake locked References: <471A2593.6010907@ktc.com> Message-ID: <00ab01c813ea$95c80d90$0200a8c0@Three> Had this myself a couple of years ago, after fifteen years without any problem. Couldn't find anything wrong, but slacking off the adjuster one notch stopped it happening, and this year when servicing the brakes and adjusting as I always had done before again no problem. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I cranked up our '69 B one day last weekend and when I began to back > it out of the garage it felt like the emergency brake hadn't completely > released. So I get it into the driveway and move it forward. Hah! The > brakes released. Hmmm, what happens if I reverse it? Did so. The rear > brakes applied themselves. Well, I'll be... From 1971mgb at cox.net Sun Oct 21 08:40:01 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 10:40:01 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes Message-ID: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Talking about brakes, recently I been noticing when ever I apply the brakes that I'm experiencing a soft/ spongy brake feel, I've checked my brake master cylinder (no leaks and full) I've checked my front brake pads ( a lot of meat left on them) I'm running with the stainless steel brake hoses , Moss 182-228, they only been on for about 2 years. any thoughts? From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Sun Oct 21 08:49:29 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 15:49:29 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three> Sounds like they need bleeding, has any work been done on them recently? Is the rear flex hose stainless as well, if you didn't change that at the same time maybe it is weakening and swelling up, even with split brakes and the differential warning system maybe the difference isn't enough to trigger it .. yet! PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Talking about brakes, recently I been noticing when ever I apply the > brakes > that I'm experiencing a soft/ spongy brake feel, From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Oct 21 09:33:13 2007 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 10:33:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rear brake locked In-Reply-To: <002401c81334$61625300$2e01a8c0@YOURDC3E0B8F38> References: <471A2593.6010907@ktc.com> <002401c81334$61625300$2e01a8c0@YOURDC3E0B8F38> Message-ID: <471B7139.3070506@ktc.com> Thanks, I had that happen with a clutch hose, clutch stayed disengaged. I neglected to write that I drove the B after the troubleshooting and adjustment, the brakes worked normally. So I don't think the prob is hydraulic, so far. CR David F. Darby wrote: > Charles, > > I once had a very similar situation with an MGB, and eventually found that > the culprit was the rear flex hose just beginning to deteriorate internally > and acting as a (not very efficient) check valve. YMMV. > > Cheers, > > David > _______________________________________________ > ccrobins at ktc.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From ccrobins at ktc.com Sun Oct 21 09:40:19 2007 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 10:40:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Rear brake locked In-Reply-To: <00ab01c813ea$95c80d90$0200a8c0@Three> References: <471A2593.6010907@ktc.com> <00ab01c813ea$95c80d90$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <471B72E3.7000101@ktc.com> Doggoned cars develop a personality, huh? It drove OK afterwards except that the E brake won't hold well. One of those Moss cables that Kelvin said suffered from "specification drift." ;^) Rotten weather this weekend. I'll drive it some more and then tighten up the adjustment a notch. Wouldn't surprise me if it duplicates your car's behavior. CR Paul Hunt wrote: > Had this myself a couple of years ago, after fifteen years without any > problem. Couldn't find anything wrong, but slacking off the adjuster > one notch stopped it happening, and this year when servicing the brakes > and adjusting as I always had done before again no problem. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> I cranked up our '69 B one day last weekend and when I began to back >> it out of the garage it felt like the emergency brake hadn't completely >> released. So I get it into the driveway and move it forward. Hah! The >> brakes released. Hmmm, what happens if I reverse it? Did so. The rear >> brakes applied themselves. Well, I'll be... From 1971mgb at cox.net Sun Oct 21 10:02:56 2007 From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 12:02:56 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> <00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> no work was done on them recently I changed front pads and rear shoes almost a year ago , stainless hoses all the way around and they were changed at the same time, I will bleed the brakes and see what type of results I'll get. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>; "MG LIST" Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 10:49 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] spongy brakes > Sounds like they need bleeding, has any work been done on them recently? Is > the rear flex hose stainless as well, if you didn't change that at the same > time maybe it is weakening and swelling up, even with split brakes and the > differential warning system maybe the difference isn't enough to trigger it > .. yet! > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Talking about brakes, recently I been noticing when ever I apply the > > brakes > > that I'm experiencing a soft/ spongy brake feel, > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.3/1082 - Release Date: 10/20/2007 2:59 PM From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Oct 21 21:56:55 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 23:56:55 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info References: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002401c8145f$96bc4a70$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, Well, after removing, dismantling, cleaning, reassembling, and reinstalling the Weber downdraft to my friend's '77 MGB, I can report no change in symptoms whatsoever. I found the carb to be relatively clean, with only a skim of rusty sediment in the float chamber. Idle is still rough and irregular, rough enough to cause the oil pressure gauge to fluctuate. Steady running still experiences missing at any steady engine speed, parked or driving. It does appear to smooth out during acceleration, perhaps when the secondary is open. Present ignition system is the new, self containing Pertronix with mating coil. Plugs and wiring are new. Compression is great and even. Valves are set. Plugs are new. After years of sitting, enough to dry whatever was in the tank, I added 5 gallons of fresh fuel along with a carb cleaner. How can such a simple instrument behave this badly? Thoughts? Do I tell the guy to buy a new Weber? Is it the Weber? Do I spend a day putting a pair of SU's on this thing as a test? TIA, Ed Woods From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 22 01:43:12 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 08:43:12 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three> <003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three> With two MGBs I find I have to bleed in two stages - normal filling/bleeding with a continuous flow device such as the Gunson's EeziBleed, then I have to get someone to press hard on the brake pedal while I briefly open and close each caliper nipple in turn, and this always blasts a bit more air out. Until I do that the brakes are spongy, and a long initial pedal, even though I can get no more air out with the EeziBleed. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... I will bleed the brakes and see what type of results I'll get. From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 22 05:52:57 2007 From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 07:52:57 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info In-Reply-To: <002401c8145f$96bc4a70$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <002401c8145f$96bc4a70$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: I think your statement, after years of sitting may be the clue. Unless you flushed out the gas tank I'd bet there is some sediment in there thats mixing with the fresh gas to cause a problem. Is there an inline filter that needs to be changed out? Tuck Southworth > From: fogbro1 at comcast.net> To: mgs at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 23:56:55 -0400> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Weber carb info> > List,> > Well, after removing, dismantling, cleaning, reassembling, and reinstalling > the Weber downdraft to my friend's '77 MGB, I can report no change in > symptoms whatsoever. I found the carb to be relatively clean, with only a > skim of rusty sediment in the float chamber.> > Idle is still rough and irregular, rough enough to cause the oil pressure > gauge to fluctuate. Steady running still experiences missing at any steady > engine speed, parked or driving. It does appear to smooth out during > acceleration, perhaps when the secondary is open.> > Present ignition system is the new, self containing Pertronix with mating > coil. Plugs and wiring are new. Compression is great and even. Valves are > set. Plugs are new.> > After years of sitting, enough to dry whatever was in the tank, I added 5 > gallons of fresh fuel along with a carb cleaner.> > How can such a simple instrument behave this badly?> > Thoughts?> > Do I tell the guy to buy a new Weber? Is it the Weber? Do I spend a day > putting a pair of SU's on this thing as a test?> > TIA,> > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________> tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com> > Edit your replies> > Mgs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 22 07:27:41 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 14:27:41 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info References: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com><002401c8145f$96bc4a70$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <004f01c814b0$f125e010$0200a8c0@Three> Any sediment should lie at the bottom, it is highly unlikely any would float on top of the fuel, and the pickup is between the bottom and the top of the fuel anyway. A brownish stain, rather than visible grains, is normal in other than a complete brand-new system. After such a long layup it could be anything, I'd start by checking fuel delivery, it should deliver *at least* one Imperial pint per minute at the carb, consistently and with minimal bubbles, and in practice an SUI should deliver closer to two pints. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I think your statement, after years of sitting may be the clue. Unless you > flushed out the gas tank I'd bet there is some sediment in there thats > mixing > with the fresh gas to cause a problem. From david_breneman at yahoo.com Mon Oct 22 09:01:01 2007 From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 08:01:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info In-Reply-To: <004f01c814b0$f125e010$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <369218.64951.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- Paul Hunt wrote: > Any sediment should lie at the bottom, it is highly unlikely any > would float > on top of the fuel, and the pickup is between the bottom and the > top of the fuel anyway. I'm having some difficulty forming a picture of this. Are you saying that the pickup floats in the tank? Most fuel tanks I've seen extract fuel from the bottom. David Breneman david_breneman at yahoo.com Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 22 09:16:07 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 11:16:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info References: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com><002401c8145f$96bc4a70$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <004f01c814b0$f125e010$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <007301c814be$7879d050$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Fuel delivery is not the problem. I did, however, use a higher proportion of fuel system cleaner than recommended for the 5 gallons of petrol I put in the tank. Comments on too much cleaner??? Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ed Woods" ; Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 9:27 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Weber carb info > Any sediment should lie at the bottom, it is highly unlikely any would > float on top of the fuel, and the pickup is between the bottom and the top > of the fuel anyway. A brownish stain, rather than visible grains, is > normal in other than a complete brand-new system. After such a long layup > it could be anything, I'd start by checking fuel delivery, it should > deliver *at least* one Imperial pint per minute at the carb, consistently > and with minimal bubbles, and in practice an SUI should deliver closer to > two pints. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >>I think your statement, after years of sitting may be the clue. Unless >>you >> flushed out the gas tank I'd bet there is some sediment in there thats >> mixing >> with the fresh gas to cause a problem. > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: > 269.15.5/1085 - Release Date: 10/22/2007 10:35 AM From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Oct 22 09:27:53 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 16:27:53 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info References: <369218.64951.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007d01c814c1$be22bb50$0200a8c0@Three> No, it sits at a constant position, but it is *off* the bottom of the tank precisely so that it doesn't pick up the debris and water that collects there. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I'm having some difficulty forming a picture of this. > Are you saying that the pickup floats in the tank? From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com Mon Oct 22 09:42:46 2007 From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 11:42:46 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info In-Reply-To: <002401c8145f$96bc4a70$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <002401c8145f$96bc4a70$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <814CFC9A-244D-4B00-9611-B30056E07B29@trebelhorn.com> You say that the car runs on the acceleration circuit; you're having trouble on the idle and progression circuit. Clean it again. You don't need to worry about the accelerator/pump circuit. Take out all the jets and shoot carb cleaner through all the internal passages; clean the jets individually. Make sure the progression holes (in the carb throat, just at the edge of the throttle butterfly) are clear. My bet would be a clogged jet or progression hole. Matt On 21 Oct, 2007, at 11:56 PM, Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > Well, after removing, dismantling, cleaning, reassembling, and > reinstalling > the Weber downdraft to my friend's '77 MGB, I can report no change in > symptoms whatsoever. I found the carb to be relatively clean, with > only a > skim of rusty sediment in the float chamber. > > Idle is still rough and irregular, rough enough to cause the oil > pressure > gauge to fluctuate. Steady running still experiences missing at any > steady > engine speed, parked or driving. It does appear to smooth out during > acceleration, perhaps when the secondary is open. > > Present ignition system is the new, self containing Pertronix with > mating > coil. Plugs and wiring are new. Compression is great and even. > Valves are > set. Plugs are new. > > After years of sitting, enough to dry whatever was in the tank, I > added 5 > gallons of fresh fuel along with a carb cleaner. > > How can such a simple instrument behave this badly? > > Thoughts? > > Do I tell the guy to buy a new Weber? Is it the Weber? Do I spend a > day > putting a pair of SU's on this thing as a test? > > TIA, > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > matt.lists at trebelhorn.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From FlynShoot at aol.com Mon Oct 22 12:11:55 2007 From: FlynShoot at aol.com (FlynShoot at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 14:11:55 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info Message-ID: I had a similar sounding problem. It turned out that my vacuum advance was the source of the problem. The car would run great when accelerating and would miss at steady speed. I followed all of the things that you mentioned to no avail. I pulled the vacuum hose going to the the distributor, plugged it and the problem was solved. I noticed know major performance problems with not using the vacuum advance (running Webber DGV with Crane Electronic Ignition). This was about 9 years ago so my memory may be a bit foggy, but I think this is how I resolved it. YMMV. Good luck. DCS ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From Weberstevej at aol.com Mon Oct 22 16:25:54 2007 From: Weberstevej at aol.com (Weberstevej at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 18:25:54 EDT Subject: [Mgs] MGA Transmission Message-ID: Hi All, I need to replace the transmission rear oil seal in the tailshaft housing of my MGA and check that the drive shaft bushing is not excessively worn. My question: Is it possible to remove the tailshaft housing from the transmission without pulling the transmission from the car? Thanks, Steve ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From jello at ida.net Mon Oct 22 16:46:14 2007 From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 16:46:14 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGA Transmission In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1120.209.180.80.45.1193093174.squirrel@webmail.ida.net> Steve, The answer is essentially no. The shift rod and the "rear engine mount" which is also the sole transmission mount are part of the tailshaft housing. Remove them, you've removed the support of your engine and transmission. While it might be possible to do, it will be a lot more work than removing the entire engine and transmission and separating out what you need to. It is almost always easier to remove engine and trans together, and then do what you need to and put it all back than it is to try to remove a major part of either unit (engine, transmission, tailshaft, etc.). Engine out procedure is about 4 - 6 hours if you know what your're doing. Back in is about 2 more than out. What you can do, though, is drain the trans oil, remove the propeller shaft, and if at all possible, work on the seal in situ. It will be hard to get to, but not impossible, and would be shorter than removing the entire engine and transmission. Phil Bates '58 MGA '67 MGB lots of other british and european stuff > Hi All, > > I need to replace the transmission rear oil seal in the tailshaft housing > of > my MGA and check that the drive shaft bushing is not excessively worn. > > My question: Is it possible to remove the tailshaft housing from the > transmission without pulling the transmission from the car? > > Thanks, > Steve From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Mon Oct 22 18:04:14 2007 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 20:04:14 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes In-Reply-To: <008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three> References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three> <003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> <008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <020701c81508$3f550fc0$bdff2f40$@com> I used to have a real hard time bleeding my B brakes, even harder than the series II Land-Rover. Then I get serious about setting the pedal free play. Immediately got a little air out and the brakes have been great ever since. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 3:43 AM To: 1971-red-mgb; MG LIST Subject: Re: [Mgs] spongy brakes With two MGBs I find I have to bleed in two stages - normal filling/bleeding with a continuous flow device such as the Gunson's EeziBleed, then I have to get someone to press hard on the brake pedal while I briefly open and close each caliper nipple in turn, and this always blasts a bit more air out. Until I do that the brakes are spongy, and a long initial pedal, even though I can get no more air out with the EeziBleed. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... I will bleed the brakes and see what type of results I'll get. _______________________________________________ steve at coastaldatasystems.com Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 23 02:29:54 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:29:54 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info References: Message-ID: <011e01c81550$dc505bc0$0200a8c0@Three> That implies there was a problem with the vacuum pipe or the vacuum capsule on the distributor, i.e. a leak. In normal use there is no flow through the vacuum pipe other than the tiny amount needed to deflect the diaphragm. If there is a leak it will pull through air constantly and weaken the mixture. Can't speak for a Weber but with SUs and Zenith (and I can't see the Weber being any different) vacuum advance gives sharper part throttle acceleration and improved cruising economy. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I had a similar sounding problem. It turned out that my vacuum advance was > the source of the problem. The car would run great when accelerating and > would > miss at steady speed. I followed all of the things that you mentioned to > no > avail. I pulled the vacuum hose going to the the distributor, plugged it > and > the problem was solved. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 23 02:40:50 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:40:50 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three><003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three> <020701c81508$3f550fc0$bdff2f40$@com> Message-ID: <012201c81550$dce43750$0200a8c0@Three> What do you mean by that? ----- Original Message ----- > ... Then I get serious about setting the pedal free play. From ccrobins at ktc.com Tue Oct 23 07:18:14 2007 From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:18:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info In-Reply-To: <011e01c81550$dc505bc0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <011e01c81550$dc505bc0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <471DF496.2000205@ktc.com> Wasn't there a reference in the OP to the oil pressure gauge fluctuating? This implies to me that there's a glitch in the primary electrical supply. I'm also reminded that many carburation problems are in the ignition system. CR From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Tue Oct 23 08:30:14 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:30:14 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info References: <011e01c81550$dc505bc0$0200a8c0@Three> <471DF496.2000205@ktc.com> Message-ID: <020c01c81583$4ba87750$0200a8c0@Three> Unlikely, as it is a damped gauge, especially as the revs are going up and down anyway. An electrical glitch would cause the tach to flicker even worse, so I'd expect that to the main symptom after the misfiring. Even apart from the revs going up and down oil gauges do fluctuate at particular pressures and temperatures, and they are all different. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Wasn't there a reference in the OP to the oil pressure gauge fluctuating? > This implies to me that there's a glitch in the primary electrical supply. From wellner.christian at navy.mil Tue Oct 23 11:41:28 2007 From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 13:41:28 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <82F3BA24EC82EF49825F4D277341CE56BE02B4@naeapaxrez05.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil> Ed, If you haven't done it, change the fuel filter. If you don't have one, install one of those clear in-line filters. This way you will be able to see what's "trying" to get from the tank to the carb. Don't expect you'll need a new carb, but if you do, more performance (and MUCH better throttle response) can be had by switching to a DGS type Weber, but there will be a loss in mileage. Good Luck, Skip From doddk at mossmotors.com Tue Oct 23 12:07:19 2007 From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 11:07:19 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes In-Reply-To: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3> Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CC8BDB4@kb1.mossmotors.com> Go through all the recommended procedures that have been listed first, just in case. The 68-74 brake master will feel spongy if there is an internal leakage between the front and rear piston seals. This one had me stumped as I would have expected internal leakage to show up as movement of fluid from one side of the reservoir to the other. I did have two cars show up with this symptom, and there was no change in reservoir levels and no amount of bleeding cured the problem. I did finally replace both master cylinders which solved the problem. Kelvin Dodd > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs- > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb > Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:40 AM > To: MG LIST > Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes > > Talking about brakes, recently I been noticing when ever I apply the > brakes > that I'm experiencing a soft/ spongy brake feel, I've checked my brake > master > cylinder (no leaks and full) I've checked my front brake pads ( a lot of > meat > left on them) I'm running with the stainless steel brake hoses , Moss 182- > 228, > they only been on for about 2 years. > any thoughts? From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 23 15:42:08 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:42:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG stuff stolen Message-ID: <00a001c815bd$90ab3240$6401a8c0@Larry> This poor guy from Detroit got lots of vintage MG stuff stolen. http://tinyurl.com/yu468w From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 23 16:13:40 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:13:40 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG stuff stolen In-Reply-To: <00a001c815bd$90ab3240$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: Such unbelievable ignorance and barbarism... You'd think even a lowlife crook would realize that vintage car parts are worth more as parts than as scrap. The blame for the recent surge in metal theft has to go squarely on the scrap dealers. I mean, if someone shows up in a contractor's truck, with a load of brand new copper pipe still in the manufacturer's bundles, it doesn't take a detective to realize it is NOT scrap, but stolen from a job site by an employee (not to mention when they show up with a bronze statue of a Civil War general, or a load of grave markers). Moreover, the thieves should realize that the prices they are getting from the scrap dealers are a ripoff -- obviously, the scrappers are making a huge profit margin, or they wouldn't be willing to act as fences. Bah. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires (is bondo salvageable?) on 10/23/07 2:42 PM, Larry Daniels at ladaniels at sbcglobal.net wrote: > This poor guy from Detroit got lots of vintage MG stuff stolen. > > > http://tinyurl.com/yu468w From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 23 16:43:55 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:43:55 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG stuff stolen References: Message-ID: <00cb01c815c6$31e0e7b0$6401a8c0@Larry> Couldn't agree with you more, Max. After they buy it from the thief, they turn around and resell it to somebody else who also turns a blind eye. Lots of crooks involved in this business -- and nobody can claim they didn't know any better. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Heim" To: "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:13 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lots of MG stuff stolen Such unbelievable ignorance and barbarism... You'd think even a lowlife crook would realize that vintage car parts are worth more as parts than as scrap. The blame for the recent surge in metal theft has to go squarely on the scrap dealers. I mean, if someone shows up in a contractor's truck, with a load of brand new copper pipe still in the manufacturer's bundles, it doesn't take a detective to realize it is NOT scrap, but stolen from a job site by an employee (not to mention when they show up with a bronze statue of a Civil War general, or a load of grave markers). Moreover, the thieves should realize that the prices they are getting from the scrap dealers are a ripoff -- obviously, the scrappers are making a huge profit margin, or they wouldn't be willing to act as fences. Bah. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires (is bondo salvageable?) on 10/23/07 2:42 PM, Larry Daniels at ladaniels at sbcglobal.net wrote: > This poor guy from Detroit got lots of vintage MG stuff stolen. > > > http://tinyurl.com/yu468w From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 23 16:54:36 2007 From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:54:36 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Lots of MG stuff stolen References: <00cb01c815c6$31e0e7b0$6401a8c0@Larry> Message-ID: <00d401c815c7$b008efb0$6401a8c0@Larry> BTW, Max, as an addendum, a good possibility as to why they wouldn't try to sell the vintage parts rather than scrap them may be that many of us who are passionate about our cars and our hobby and spread the word about this kind of thing would turn these dirtbags in in a heartbeat if we were offered these parts that we suspected were stolen from a guy like this. How's that for a run-on sentence? Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Daniels" To: "Max Heim" ; "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:43 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lots of MG stuff stolen Couldn't agree with you more, Max. After they buy it from the thief, they turn around and resell it to somebody else who also turns a blind eye. Lots of crooks involved in this business -- and nobody can claim they didn't know any better. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Heim" To: "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:13 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lots of MG stuff stolen Such unbelievable ignorance and barbarism... You'd think even a lowlife crook would realize that vintage car parts are worth more as parts than as scrap. The blame for the recent surge in metal theft has to go squarely on the scrap dealers. I mean, if someone shows up in a contractor's truck, with a load of brand new copper pipe still in the manufacturer's bundles, it doesn't take a detective to realize it is NOT scrap, but stolen from a job site by an employee (not to mention when they show up with a bronze statue of a Civil War general, or a load of grave markers). Moreover, the thieves should realize that the prices they are getting from the scrap dealers are a ripoff -- obviously, the scrappers are making a huge profit margin, or they wouldn't be willing to act as fences. Bah. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires (is bondo salvageable?) on 10/23/07 2:42 PM, Larry Daniels at ladaniels at sbcglobal.net wrote: > This poor guy from Detroit got lots of vintage MG stuff stolen. > > > http://tinyurl.com/yu468w _______________________________________________ ladaniels at sbcglobal.net Edit your replies Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.6/1086 - Release Date: 10/22/2007 7:57 PM From LBCarCoMail at aol.com Wed Oct 24 06:47:25 2007 From: LBCarCoMail at aol.com (LBCarCoMail at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:47:25 EDT Subject: [Mgs] Mallory Distributor Message-ID: Dave, The Moss number on that one is 143-180 and it will fit most 4 cylinder Engines other than the TR7 Jeff ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Wed Oct 24 16:46:07 2007 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:46:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes In-Reply-To: <012201c81550$dce43750$0200a8c0@Three> References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three><003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three> <020701c81508$3f550fc0$bdff2f40$@com> <012201c81550$dce43750$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <009201c8168f$aa9e3ad0$ffdab070$@com> I mean reading the repair manual and properly setting the brake pedal free play. This wasn't actually my idea, I was talking to an MG mechanic locally about the trouble I was having bleeding the brakes. He reached in the car, grabbed the brake pedal and pushed it. He said the free play was not correct (as in none) and if I would set it I would probably get some more air out of the system and not have any more problems. He was correct. -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk] Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:41 AM To: Stephen West-fisher; 'MG LIST' Subject: Re: [Mgs] spongy brakes What do you mean by that? ----- Original Message ----- > ... Then I get serious about setting the pedal free play. From bobmgtd at insightbb.com Wed Oct 24 18:59:47 2007 From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 20:59:47 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B References: <048DD615-8A55-4A8C-BCA1-6D9D99D73771@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001d01c816a2$568cf310$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Same thing happened to me. The wire dress under the distributor cap is critical! I think the vacuum advance tightens the wires around the shaft. You must leave enough slack so that they don't rub. I also have a pertronix in the TD which doesn't have vacuum advance. In that car, the wires stay where you put them. Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s) Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361 Member: NEMGTR #11470 NAMGBR # 7-3336 Hoosier MGB Club Olde Octagons of Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Root" To: "MG List" Cc: "Rich Root" Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 9:21 PM Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B > My wife and older son are out of town this weekend, so my 10 year old > and I are home bach'ing it. > > After getting the alternator in and going, we were itching to get the > car out and see that the gremlins > were gone. I was still considering taking the car to Kansas for the > Runoffs at the end of the week. > > After dinner, we were driving to the hardware store to get a couple > things to fix a couple of preschool > toys that the kids managed to break. > > The car lurched a few times. Got to the hardware store, but it was > closed. We were going to get on the highway > head to Menards. Sam says that Home Depot is closer. Ok fine, take > the frontage road instead, the car dies at > a stop light. I have Sam steer around the left turn and get off the > road. He runs it up on the curb, but otherwise > did a good job. > > I check the wires on the starter that had come loose before, they > were fine. Coil wires looked fine. Check > the fuel pump, as I didn't hear clicking. The carbs were full, pump > was fine. > > I decide the pop the dizzy cap, to see if it was ok. Then I saw it. > The wires for the pertronix were rubbing > against the shaft, and the red one had broken. Sam found the > electrical tape, I stripped the wire, and taped > it up. Rerouted it so it doesn't go around the shaft, close up the > dizzy, and start the car. > > Drove home. > > A nice guy in a Jeep stopped to see if he could help, but I had it > under control. > > I didn't have any tools. They were all sitting on my workbench in the > garage, I did everything with a > keychain leatherman. > > I guess I won't be taking it to Kansas, I don't like the idea of a > piece of electrical tape in the dizzy, I > suppose I could put some shrink wrap on it. > > I'm also considering replacing it. Maybe an MDS? I need to check > the shaft of the dizzy to see > if it's wobbly. > > > Paul Root > ptrmgb at gmail.com > 77 MGB > 99 OBS > _______________________________________________ > bobmgtd at insightbb.com > > Edit your replies > > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 25 02:23:30 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 09:23:30 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three><003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three><020701c81508$3f550fc0$bdff2f40$@com><012201c81550$dce43750$0200a8c0@Three> <009201c8168f$aa9e3ad0$ffdab070$@com> Message-ID: <016601c816e2$021eebe0$0200a8c0@Three> In case any one is still wondering what on earth you are talking about I presume you mean setting the free-play of the brake-light switch on those cars with a mechanical switch either on the pedal box or pedal bracket inside the cockpit. That is the only free-play you can set. If the switch is screwed too far in it stops the pedal coming back far enough, and the piston doesn't clear the port from the reservoir. The usual symptom of that is the brakes binding as they heat up and the fluid expands. If the switch isn't screwed in far enough the brake lights stay on all the time. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I mean reading the repair manual and properly setting the brake pedal free > play. From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Oct 25 02:36:00 2007 From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 09:36:00 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] tonights adventure in the 'B References: <048DD615-8A55-4A8C-BCA1-6D9D99D73771@gmail.com> <001d01c816a2$568cf310$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr> Message-ID: <01ae01c816e4$1c22dae0$0200a8c0@Three> If they are tight there is something wrong. But even with the requisite slack they are still being bent back and fore with vacuum advance and will eventually fracture. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Same thing happened to me. The wire dress under the distributor cap is > critical! I think the vacuum advance tightens the wires around the shaft. > You must leave enough slack so that they don't rub. From steve at coastaldatasystems.com Fri Oct 26 16:11:38 2007 From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 18:11:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] spongy brakes In-Reply-To: <016601c816e2$021eebe0$0200a8c0@Three> References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three><003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three><020701c81508$3f550fc0$bdff2f40$@com><012201c81550$dce43750$0200a8c0@Three> <009201c8168f$aa9e3ad0$ffdab070$@com> <016601c816e2$021eebe0$0200a8c0@Three> Message-ID: <00ee01c8181d$2e0d4940$8a27dbc0$@com> Exactly, the pedal free play adjustment described in the repair manual section Ma.1. Since I believe the original query was about a 1970 or newer NA market vehicle it would have the tandem master cylinder. Seems pretty simple to understand to me :-) -- Stephen West-Fisher Coastal Data Systems 727.599.4271 http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk] Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 4:24 AM To: Stephen West-fisher; 'MG LIST' Subject: Re: [Mgs] spongy brakes In case any one is still wondering what on earth you are talking about I presume you mean setting the free-play of the brake-light switch on those cars with a mechanical switch either on the pedal box or pedal bracket inside the cockpit From WJHS1960 at comcast.net Sun Oct 28 16:51:10 2007 From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 17:51:10 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] For sale References: <002c01c813f0$42d8ea90$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><00d001c813f3$23a7f690$0200a8c0@Three><003f01c813fb$d84cccd0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3><008901c8147f$db3d9f30$0200a8c0@Three> <020701c81508$3f550fc0$bdff2f40$@com> Message-ID: <047701c819bd$6b196980$6601a8c0@actualshop> '72 RWA Midget For Sale in Cars For Sale at www.justbrits.com !! From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 28 17:44:38 2007 From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 18:44:38 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] ?? Message-ID: <061a01c819c4$e2efcd30$6601a8c0@actualshop> Sorry folks, Frank K (Swamprat), please drop me a note!! Ed From frankk at intap.net Mon Oct 29 04:07:19 2007 From: frankk at intap.net (Frank) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 07:07:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA roadster project for sale References: Message-ID: <004b01c81a1b$df965670$2942040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU> Where is the car located? Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 7:27 PM Subject: Fwd: MGA roadster project for sale Anyone want to give a new home to this MGA? There are lots of part that go with it... Tom Howard From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 29 06:40:16 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:40:16 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] MGA roadster project for sale References: <004b01c81a1b$df965670$2942040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU> Message-ID: <002001c81a31$3e65fc90$800101df@Garage.local> sorry - i must have missed this one. what car/where? thanks, and my apologies. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank" To: "MG List" ; Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 6:07 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA roadster project for sale > Where is the car located? > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 7:27 PM > Subject: Fwd: MGA roadster project for sale > > > Anyone want to give a new home to this MGA? There are lots of part that > go > with it... > > Tom Howard From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 29 07:37:24 2007 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:37:24 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Energy Suspension Poly Bushings; Upper Trunnion References: <000a01c80959$52501b20$4beeab46@rich> <004f01c809a2$3bfbf8a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <470A3FB4.5000408@gmail.com> Message-ID: <003d01c81a39$390cb010$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, Here's an update on the MGB Upper Trunnion Poly Bushings from Energy Suspension. John Swauger of TRF talked directly to the manufacturer who stated that they are intended to be installed without reuse of the original steel sleeve. That's the way I put 'em in last week and they seem to be just fine. Ed Woods From autoinfo at comcast.net Mon Oct 29 13:53:32 2007 From: autoinfo at comcast.net (autoinfo at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:53:32 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB MG BGT - Ready for restoration Message-ID: <102920072053.14771.4726484B000CCAC1000039B3221357533301000207019B9A0E@comcast.net> 1974 MGB MG BGT - Ready for restoration Located in Denver, CO metro area I bought everything! Now a job change leaves me with no time. 1974 is the last of the chrome bumper and has a nice dash. Will make an AWSOME CAR! New Mexico Car TONS of New Parts....... Springs (front and rear) Shocks (all 4) ($320) Front swivel axles ($500 Moss) Poly bushings, red (complete set for car) Front bearings MG BV8 brake calipers MG BV8 rotors (thicker rotor) MG BV8 Green Stuff brake pads Brake master cylinder Stainless brake hoses Rear axle differential kit All engine machine work done, ready to assemble, all parts balanced Aluminum Cross-flow head ($1,799 Moss) 1 > SU carbs (2) ($683 Moss) Pistons, rings Bearings New cam, not reground Special lifters Payten gaskets Water pump Clutch High torque starter ($285 Moss) Full Peco exhaust system, including header ($567 Moss) MG BV8 radiator 5-speed T-9 transmission kit (includes spare T-9 from a Merkur) ($3,099 Moss) Front seat upholstery ($400 Moss) Seat Diaphragms Carpet, molded ($430 Moss) Dash ($260 Moss) Steering wheel adapter Taillights Grille ($175 Moss) Windshield Hood 15 Minilite wheels ($800 Moss) Lug nuts Loads of Extra parts: complete engine, 4-speed transmission, doors, glass, rear axle, front cross members, bumpers, gauges, seats, +++++ Would like to sell complete! Mike autoinfo at comcast.net From barneymg at mgaguru.com Tue Oct 30 06:49:31 2007 From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:49:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] The graphite body MGA is for sale Message-ID: <20071030144836.94B7E187A4A@autox.team.net> The Vantage Motorsports graphite body MGA is up for sale on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110185956859 No personal interest, just a curiosity for me. I have a few magazine articles about it posted here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/variants/vt106h.htm Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com From wsthompson at thicko.com Tue Oct 30 20:43:19 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 22:43:19 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Message-ID: <001601c81b70$2fae7a70$8f0b6f50$@com> One project for SOS '07 that we might consider is the disassembly of a very interesting race car I picked up last winter. It's a Bugeye with an extensive West Coast history. I have log books showing 119 races from the early 70's to the 90's. It was originally raced by Mike Mayon and motorsports hall of fame member Elliott Forbes Robinson. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliott_Forbes-Robinson. The next owner was Dwayne Anderson, who worked with Carroll Shelby during the Can Am years. This is a historically significant car, and will be somewhat of an automotive archeological dig. WST Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii wsthompson at thicko.com www.thicko.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From wsthompson at thicko.com Wed Oct 31 05:41:31 2007 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 07:41:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 EFR Message-ID: <003201c81bbb$5f1539c0$1d3fad40$@com> Hey y'all, http://www.caranddriver.com/features/11372/sport-renaissance-man.html Nice article on Elliott Forbes Robinson. I know he raced 2 Sprites early. The first is mentioned as having belonged to his father. That car was autocrossed by Elliott and his sisters. The car pictured in this article is the 2nd, and was owned/prepared by EFR and Mike Mayon. That is the car I own. Unfortunately the trick wheels were traded off years ago. I'd love to find a set of those. if any of you know where I might find a set. SOS '07 will be the Fri & Sat. following Thanksgiving. Nov. 23 & 24. The Thicko International World Headquarters are located at the Dream Farm. a 10 acre farm between Fond du Lac & Oshkosh Wisconsin. We're smack dab in the middle of dairy farm country. The Thicko shop (yes, it is also known as the "homo club" ) is well lit, and well heated, should the weather be crap, as it often is that time of year, we'll be comfortable. We have plenty of parking. WST Wm. Severin Thompson ~iii wsthompson at thicko.com www.thicko.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From sammler at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 31 07:17:14 2007 From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler") Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 09:17:14 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Minilite from minilite.co.uk vs Minilite replica vs Panasport for MGA 1600 MKII Message-ID: <47288E6A.40202@bellsouth.net> First - if I could find new steel wheels I'd probably go for them ;-) If someone has advice or warnings about purchasing the Minilite replica wheel please let me know. Minilite in England responded with a price quote very quickly. $210 per wheel, including lug nuts and hubcap for $210 plus the freight charge of approximately $50 per wheel. (The freight charge was in two parts - $40 for the overseas shipping to their warehouse in the States and then an $18 shipping fee from there to my address in SC.) Total per wheel - *$258.00* All prices below were calculated based on the catalog prices and have been divided by 4 to obtain a per wheel price. My favorite seller has the Minilite replica wheel, 4 lug nuts and the hubcap for *$193.90* and with the order for all the wheels there would be free shipping. I haven't called them yet to find out if the lug nuts are chromed and the hubcap has the MG logo. Panasport, also from my favorite seller, is *$249.00* per wheel and with the order for all the wheels there would be free shipping. I do understand that the Panasport would use a wider tire but I don't know that I need/want that. One of the other major purveyors of nice things for MGs has the Minilite replica wheel, 4 chrome lug nuts and the MG logo center cap for $202.22 plus $9.07 = *$211.29*. (I took their price for a complete set and divide the charges by 4 to arrive a a per wheel price.) Thanks, Pat From dwoerpel at wi.net Wed Oct 31 08:43:49 2007 From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:43:49 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 In-Reply-To: <001601c81b70$2fae7a70$8f0b6f50$@com> References: <001601c81b70$2fae7a70$8f0b6f50$@com> Message-ID: <4728A2B5.2050901@wi.net> Wm. Severin Thompson wrote: > One project for SOS '07 that we might consider is the disassembly of a very > interesting race car I picked up last winter. It's a Bugeye with an > extensive West Coast history. I have log books showing 119 races from the > early 70's to the 90's. It was originally raced by Mike Mayon and > motorsports hall of fame member Elliott Forbes Robinson. See > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliott_Forbes-Robinson. The next owner was > Dwayne Anderson, who worked with Carroll Shelby during the Can Am years. > ......... > WST > HAPPY BIRTHDAY E.F.R.!!! Count me in W_m_. ! Dave 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 05 MCS Burlington WI From max_heim at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 31 13:36:43 2007 From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 13:36:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Snappy caps Message-ID: I was at the Target store recently (I like to pronounce it "tar-ZHAY"), and was surprised to find a wide selection of cloth caps, suitable for British Motoring. I picked out a jaunty number in what I would describe as "faded dark olive". No financial interest, yada yada... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires From barrie at look.ca Wed Oct 31 20:57:16 2007 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 23:57:16 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Snappy caps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My good heavens - Are these cheap stores getting into style? At 04:36 PM 10/31/2007, Max Heim wrote: >I was at the Target store recently (I like to pronounce it "tar-ZHAY"), and >was surprised to find a wide selection of cloth caps, suitable for British >Motoring. I picked out a jaunty number in what I would describe as "faded >dark olive". > >No financial interest, yada yada... > > >-- > >Max Heim >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >If you're near Mountain View, CA, >it's the primer red one with chrome wires >_______________________________________________ >barrie at look.ca > >Edit your replies > >Mgs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm