From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Nov  1 05:33:03 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 07:33:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Foundervision
Message-ID: <005201c81c83$5b186cc0$11494640$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Once again, we'll broadcast the SOS event (Nov. 23 & 24) via Yahoo
Messenger. That's video, and audio, with real time ability to ask questions
of the participants from viewers around the world. If you don't already have
one, get your Yahoo ID and download Yahoo Messenger from
http://messenger.yahoo.com/. Add <floundervision> to your friends list.

 

Pay attention if you're installing this for the first time, and deselect
anything that makes Yahoo as your home page or your search engine (unless of
course you prefer it that way).

 

I'll have the Floundervision camera online periodically over the next few
weeks to test your connections, camera placements, and 2 way audio. 

 

WST

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Nov  1 05:34:30 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 07:34:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 couch reservations
Message-ID: <005801c81c83$8ecd6ca0$ac6845e0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I'm trying to get a handle on how many of you will need accommodations. Some
have already made hotel reservations. We've got some extra bedroom space in
the house, a couple of couches in the heated shop, a camper that can
accommodate a few, and our summer place 30 minutes away that accommodate 6.
There's always floor space for those that can stand it, and a large parking
lot for anyone bringing their own motorhome or camper.

 

Please confirm if you're planning on staying with us. Thanks.

 

WST

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From dbgaither at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov  1 10:05:33 2007
From: dbgaither at sbcglobal.net (Douglas Gaither)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 10:05:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ATTN: Californians
Message-ID: <163432.39075.qm@web81601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have a '66 MBG that I'd really like to have black plates on (earlier
California color scheme).  I even had some old plates restored and tried to
get them registered to the vehicle, but the DMV would have nothing to do with
any plates that I could not PROVE were registered to the car at some time.

So
my question is... 
1) could I research the original registration to learn the
original black plate number
2) find someone somewhere that could reproduce a
black California plate
3) submit my 'proof' with newly stamped plates 
4) Doug
is happy?

Has anyone out there done this?  Is this an ill-conceived idea?
Doug

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov  1 10:15:41 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 10:15:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ATTN: Californians
In-Reply-To: <163432.39075.qm@web81601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C34F57CD.12ABA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Right now, you can't do it, legally.

But there is a bill in the assembly that would finally allow it:
http://republican.assembly.ca.gov/index.asp?RefID=3945&body=Focus

Many car enthusiasts are against this bill, by the way -- they want to
maintain the current situation where an "original CA black plate car" means
something. But you would still be able to tell the difference under this
proposed system, I believe.

I would kind of like to get rid of the hideous "sunset" plates on my 66,
personally.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/1/07 10:05 AM, Douglas Gaither at dbgaither at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> I have a '66 MBG that I'd really like to have black plates on (earlier
> California color scheme).  I even had some old plates restored and tried to
> get them registered to the vehicle, but the DMV would have nothing to do with
> any plates that I could not PROVE were registered to the car at some time.
> 
> So
> my question is...
> 1) could I research the original registration to learn the
> original black plate number
> 2) find someone somewhere that could reproduce a
> black California plate
> 3) submit my 'proof' with newly stamped plates
> 4) Doug
> is happy?
> 
> Has anyone out there done this?  Is this an ill-conceived idea?
> Doug

From wmcolesr at wowway.com  Thu Nov  1 12:14:59 2007
From: wmcolesr at wowway.com (Bill Cole)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:14:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil again and again
Message-ID: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>

1)  Re oil:  I just changed oil in my well broken-in TD and 1980 B, and used
20W50 Castrol, service grade M.  Any problem with that?  Definitely doesn't
say "energy conserving".
2)  Anybody know how to change the upside-down filter in a late B without
dumping oil all over the place?
Bill Cole

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 2614 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From derek at vandivere.net  Thu Nov  1 13:17:47 2007
From: derek at vandivere.net (Derek Vandivere)
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 21:17:47 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Oil again and again
In-Reply-To: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>
References: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>
Message-ID: <472A346B.7090702@vandivere.net>

Well, it does admittedly take quite a bit of upper body strength, but 
I'd advise just turning the car upside down.

dersk, thanks, I'll be here all week

Bill Cole wrote:
> 2)  Anybody know how to change the upside-down filter in a late B without
> dumping oil all over the place?
> Bill Cole
>
> --
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
> It has removed 2614 spam emails to date.
> Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
> _______________________________________________
> derek at vandivere.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  1 13:39:36 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 13:39:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Oil again and again
In-Reply-To: <472A346B.7090702@vandivere.net>
Message-ID: <277973.16453.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Is there a version of the recommended filter with an
internal stand-pipe?  That's what my F-car uses.
--- Derek Vandivere <derek at vandivere.net> wrote:

> Well, it does admittedly take quite a bit of upper
> body strength, but 
> I'd advise just turning the car upside down.
> 
> dersk, thanks, I'll be here all week
> 
> Bill Cole wrote:
> > 2)  Anybody know how to change the upside-down
> filter in a late B without
> > dumping oil all over the place?
> > Bill Cole
> >
> > --
> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for
> private users.
> > It has removed 2614 spam emails to date.
> > Paying users do not have this message in their
> emails.
> > Get the free SPAMfighter here:
> http://www.spamfighter.com/len
> > _______________________________________________
> > derek at vandivere.net
> >
> > Edit your replies
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Thu Nov  1 19:15:14 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 21:15:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil again and again
In-Reply-To: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>
References: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>
Message-ID: <20071102031420.5B641187A3E@autox.team.net>

At 02:14 PM 11/1/2007 -0500, Bill Cole wrote:
>....
>2)  Anybody know how to change the upside-down filter in a late B 
>without dumping oil all over the place?

Yes.  If you do it right this can be one of the easiest and cleanest 
changing oil filters you ever encountered, much less messy than the 
angled hanging spin on filters.

Start by using a center punch or a small Phillips screwdriver and a 
hammer to punch two holes in the end of the cannister, one in the 
center and one near the outside edge (inside and outside of the 
filter element).  This lets air into the cannister so the oil can 
drain out.  Then drain the sump before removing the filter.  By the 
time you get back to remove the filter it will be empty.  The only 
oil remaining will be a puddle in the adapter, about flush with the 
seal surface.  If you hold a shop rag or soft paper towel under it 
when you unscrew the filter you can catch the little dribbles.

I like this inverted spin-on adapter for a few more reasons.  It has 
easy access for filter changing of course, but also you can remove 
the starter motor without removing the oil filter, and you can remove 
the engine from the car (for clutch or gearbox work) without removing 
the filter.  Contrary to common belief, there is no problem with oil 
drain back while the car is parked, because there is no way for air 
to get into the filter.  Any spin-on filter (including hanging 
filters) should have an anti-drain-back valve to prevent oil from 
draining down from the upper engine back through the oil pump 
(considering oil pump internal clearances).

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Nov  1 19:34:37 2007
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 21:34:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil again and again
In-Reply-To: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>
References: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>
Message-ID: <472A8CBD.6020908@snet.net>

When I had my MGB, I used Fram 3614 filters, same as what went on my 
1998 Dodge Neon and my 1966 Sprite.  I used to get these in packs of 4.  
If I was careful on removing it and didn't tip it, most of the oil would 
stay in the filter until clear of the car.  I would have the puddle in 
the bottom of the adapter as Barney describes, and catch the residue 
with a rag.  No drama, no Valdez spills.

I sold the B last year, sold the Neon this year, and still have the 
Sprite with a supply of filters.

Bill Cole wrote:

>1)  Re oil:  I just changed oil in my well broken-in TD and 1980 B, and used
>20W50 Castrol, service grade M.  Any problem with that?  Definitely doesn't
>say "energy conserving".
>2)  Anybody know how to change the upside-down filter in a late B without
>dumping oil all over the place?
>Bill Cole
>
>--
>I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
>It has removed 2614 spam emails to date.
>Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
>Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
>_______________________________________________
>james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  2 04:35:04 2007
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 04:35:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Problem
Message-ID: <487706.70849.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello Listers;
   
  While taking a test drive in my '74 BGT yesterday (I was tuning the carbs), something strange happened.  All of a sudden I lost my tach, fuel gauge, temp gauge, turn signals, wipers and brake lights.  A basic check has indicated no blown fuses, and the ground to the back of my tach is tight.  
   
  Any suggestions on how to proceed?  I've had sporatic electrical issues before, but nothing quite like this.
   
  Thanks for the help,
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT

From wmcolesr at wowway.com  Fri Nov  2 05:28:06 2007
From: wmcolesr at wowway.com (Bill Cole)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 07:28:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil again
Message-ID: <001401c81d4b$d3bf4720$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>

Thanks for all the suggestions, particularly the more creative ones, such as
upending the car.  Particular thanks to Barney for his puncture solution.
Wish I had asked the question two days ago.  FYI, the filter that leaked was
Fram Tough-guard.
I've been told that SM Castrol 20w50 is still ok for broken in engines.
How do I "Ping the net" for oil discussions?
Bill Cole

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 2622 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov  2 08:39:37 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 10:39:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Dyno Tuning Tech Session
Message-ID: <033701c81d66$943f5f70$6401a8c0@Larry>

Anybody in the area who would like to run their car (any car -- doesn't have
to be British) on a Superflow dyno can come to our local Brit Car Club's tech
session on Nov. 10th.  The session will start at noon and the cost to run your
car is $75.  (Watch and learn for free.)

Location is Extreme Performance Motorsports, N966 Quality Drive, Greenville,
WI.  (920) 757-0269  Greenville is just west of Appleton, WI.


Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov  2 08:56:09 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 10:56:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 what to wear, what towear?
Message-ID: <001b01c81d68$e4ab8770$ae029650$@com>

Hey Y'all,

 

Well, if you're planning on working, wear something you don't mind getting
grubby. But, also bring a change of clothes, as we'll likely be going out
for dinner Friday night.

 

Also, remember, you need not dive into the work if you'd rather not. you can
just watch. We always need help with moderating the Yahoo chatroom and
Floundervision webcast. We can use help with the food we serve up both days.
You can dive in, step back, or just come to talk and learn. Like Team
Thicko.. SOS is an "inclusive", not an "exclusive" event. Spouses and
children are welcome too.

 

You might consider bringing  safety glasses if you have them. Also, as in
years past, if you remember, bring a roll of paper tolls (or 12) and a can
of brake clean.

 

WST

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Nov  2 09:04:48 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 11:04:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 what to wear, what towear?
In-Reply-To: <001b01c81d68$e4ab8770$ae029650$@com>
References: <001b01c81d68$e4ab8770$ae029650$@com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071102110344.038d4a40@nosimport.com>

At 10:56 AM 11/2/2007, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:

>Hey Y'all,
>
>
>
>Well, if you're planning on working, wear something you don't mind getting
>grubby. But, also bring a change of clothes, as we'll likely be going out
>for dinner Friday night.


Hey..... if we're gonna be working on the Dung Bug, I'm bringing 
Hazmat suit and respirator!


PPP 

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov  2 09:08:56 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 11:08:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 what to wear, what towear?
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20071102110344.038d4a40@nosimport.com>
References: <001b01c81d68$e4ab8770$ae029650$@com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071102110344.038d4a40@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <002701c81d6a$ae5257b0$0af70710$@com>

Hey, I've been shoveling and power washing raccoon sh*t for weeks... those
cars are damn near "minty fresh" now. We'll see how the weather holds... as
I prefer to do any serious blue wrench (torch) work outside.

WST

"Hey..... if we're gonna be working on the Dung Bug, I'm bringing 
Hazmat suit and respirator!


PPP" 

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Nov  2 09:18:52 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 09:18:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Problem
In-Reply-To: <487706.70849.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD43176@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Matt:

This sounds like a typical fuse box continuity problem. Disconect the
battery (ies), mark the wires plugged into the fuse box and then remove
them all. Remove the fuse box and clean the connections on the back side
of it. You will see where there is a strap connecting the fuse clips.
Usually the problem occurs when corrosion gets in between the strap and
the fuse clip. It's not a bad idea to replace the fuse box, as all of
the connectors are going to be suspect by this time.

I'm pretty sure my 1970 has the same problem, as the last time I drove
it the pump and ignition started to get intermittant, just as I was
getting home in the dark after a day of canyon blasting.

Kelvin Dodd
1970 MGB needs TLC


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch
> Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 4:35 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Problem
>
> Hello Listers;
>
>   While taking a test drive in my '74 BGT yesterday (I was
> tuning the carbs), something strange happened.  All of a
> sudden I lost my tach, fuel gauge, temp gauge, turn signals,
> wipers and brake lights.  A basic check has indicated no
> blown fuses, and the ground to the back of my tach is tight.
>
>   Any suggestions on how to proceed?  I've had sporatic
> electrical issues before, but nothing quite like this.
>
>   Thanks for the help,
>   Matt Milkevitch
>   '74 BGT

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Fri Nov  2 09:34:04 2007
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 16:34:04 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Sqeal with release of clutch pedal
Message-ID: <596LkBqhe7008S15.1194021244@cmsweb15.cms.usa.net>

Lately driving to and from work in my '70 BGT, for the first few times I
engage the clutch I hear a loud squeal sound for a few seconds before i get
up
to speed in that gear. The temperature has just dropped here from bing very
worm to being below 60F 15C at the times of day when I'm commuting. Once I've
done a few stops at intersections everything is normal. Any guesses what this
is?

Douglas

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Nov  2 09:48:39 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 09:48:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Sqeal with release of clutch pedal
In-Reply-To: <596LkBqhe7008S15.1194021244@cmsweb15.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD43196@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Douglas:

A dry pilot bearing will give these symptoms. When cold the end of the
transmission input shaft is chattering inside the dry bronze bush. Once
it heats up the tolerances tighten and the high frequency chattering
(squeel) stops. Not much to do except live with it till it's time to
redo the clutch.

Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Douglas McKinnie
> Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 9:34 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Sqeal with release of clutch pedal
>
> Lately driving to and from work in my '70 BGT, for the first
> few times I engage the clutch I hear a loud squeal sound for
> a few seconds before i get up to speed in that gear. The
> temperature has just dropped here from bing very worm to
> being below 60F 15C at the times of day when I'm commuting.
> Once I've done a few stops at intersections everything is
> normal. Any guesses what this is?
>
> Douglas

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Fri Nov  2 09:54:40 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 12:54:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Problem
In-Reply-To: <mailman.28324.1194023872.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF51A8FDEB.B81E3D99-ON85257387.005C9700-85257387.005CE564@exxonmobil.com>

Matthew,

I think Kelvin is right on here, it's more than likely the fuse box
connections, including where the fuses clip into the fuse box.

I had the same symptoms as you 7 years ago.  I clean all the metal
connections in the fuse box, reconnected it using a bit a dielectric grease
and have not had a problem since.

Mark
Corunna, Ont
73 MGBGT


From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electrical Problem
To: "Matthew Milkevitch" <mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>, <mgs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
             <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD43176 at kb1.mossmotors.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Matt:

This sounds like a typical fuse box continuity problem. Disconect the
battery (ies), mark the wires plugged into the fuse box and then remove
them all. Remove the fuse box and clean the connections on the back side
of it. You will see where there is a strap connecting the fuse clips.
Usually the problem occurs when corrosion gets in between the strap and
the fuse clip. It's not a bad idea to replace the fuse box, as all of
the connectors are going to be suspect by this time.

I'm pretty sure my 1970 has the same problem, as the last time I drove
it the pump and ignition started to get intermittant, just as I was
getting home in the dark after a day of canyon blasting.

Kelvin Dodd
1970 MGB needs TLC

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Nov  2 09:20:47 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 12:20:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Oil again and again
In-Reply-To: <472A8CBD.6020908@snet.net>
References: <002201c81cbb$7f54b8e0$c4b22f45@youru10ixi0anw>
	<472A8CBD.6020908@snet.net>
Message-ID: <E1Io12k-0002ce-BI@beta.look.ca>

I thought Fram filters did not come out well in that filter test 
thing that was around a while ago?
I am using K&N ones



At 10:34 PM 11/1/2007, Jim Juhas wrote:
>When I had my MGB, I used Fram 3614 filters, same as what went on my
>1998 Dodge Neon and my 1966 Sprite.  I used to get these in packs of 4.
>If I was careful on removing it and didn't tip it, most of the oil would
>stay in the filter until clear of the car.  I would have the puddle in
>the bottom of the adapter as Barney describes, and catch the residue
>with a rag.  No drama, no Valdez spills.
>
>I sold the B last year, sold the Neon this year, and still have the
>Sprite with a supply of filters.
>
>Bill Cole wrote:
>
> >1)  Re oil:  I just changed oil in my well broken-in TD and 1980 B, and used
> >20W50 Castrol, service grade M.  Any problem with that?  Definitely doesn't
> >say "energy conserving".
> >2)  Anybody know how to change the upside-down filter in a late B without
> >dumping oil all over the place?
> >Bill Cole
> >
> >--
> >I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
> >It has removed 2614 spam emails to date.
> >Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
> >Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
> >_______________________________________________
> >james.f.juhas at snet.net
> >
> >Edit your replies
> >
> >Mgs at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov  2 12:41:42 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 14:41:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 what to wear, what towear?
In-Reply-To: <441250190711021202p39d0c2ccpdf4c502cbeaa1af1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001b01c81d68$e4ab8770$ae029650$@com>	
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071102110344.038d4a40@nosimport.com>	
	<002701c81d6a$ae5257b0$0af70710$@com>
	<441250190711021202p39d0c2ccpdf4c502cbeaa1af1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001d01c81d88$66f04800$34d0d800$@com>

Believe me. they're outside. I've got enough junk Sprites lined up on the go
kart track it looks like Bristol Motor Speedway on a Sunday.

 

From: Bill Gilroy [mailto:wmgilroy at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 2:03 PM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson
Cc: Peter C; Spridget List; team-thicko at autox.team.net;
healeys at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SOS '07 what to wear, what towear?

 

Outside might help with the minty fresh dung smell.

On 11/2/07, Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson at thicko.com> wrote: 

Hey, I've been shoveling and power washing raccoon sh*t for weeks... those
cars are damn near "minty fresh" now. We'll see how the weather holds... as 
I prefer to do any serious blue wrench (torch) work outside.

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Nov  2 15:02:11 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 18:02:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Targett kit
Message-ID: <E1Io4bM-0002yd-7e@beta.look.ca>

I have just installed the Targett kit which modifies the castor on 
the front wheels.

I am happy with results  Not a HUGE difference but enough to put a 
smile on my face

Regards

Barrie Robinson
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm

PURVEYOR  of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges
                         Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs
                         High-tech sound deadening materials
                       .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Nov  3 06:34:02 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 13:34:02 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Electrical Problem
References: <487706.70849.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <074301c81e1e$e17eb9d0$0200a8c0@Three>

Everything points to the green circuit fuse (2nd one up) except the wipers 
being affected, these (and the heater fan and washers) were fed via a 
separate in-line fuse from the accessories position of the ignition switch 
from 71 to 74 (CB) inclusive.  Ignoring this discrepancy, the brake lights 
and tach (etc.) come off two different green wires at the fusebox, the 
reversing lights off the 3rd wire.  Two of these are in the same spade and 
the other on a separate spade, so if the reversing lights are affected as 
well it must be the fuse, its connections to the fuse holder, or one of the 
riveted connections on the back of the fusebox that connect the fuse holder 
to the spades.  If the circuits on the green with its own spade are still OK 
then it must be the connection between the paired greens connector and the 
fusebox spade.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>  While taking a test drive in my '74 BGT yesterday (I was tuning the 
> carbs), something strange happened.  All of a sudden I lost my tach, fuel 
> gauge, temp gauge, turn signals, wipers and brake lights.  A basic check 
> has indicated no blown fuses, and the ground to the back of my tach is 
> tight.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Nov  3 06:37:44 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 13:37:44 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Sqeal with release of clutch pedal
References: <596LkBqhe7008S15.1194021244@cmsweb15.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <074401c81e1e$e1a26e70$0200a8c0@Three>

Is it *only* as you operate the pedal?  Or as you press the accelerator 
after engaging the next gear?  The latter could be a slipping fan-belt.  If 
it only happens *as* you move the pedal, and not when you hold the pedal in 
a specific position, then it is probably the pedal pivot.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Lately driving to and from work in my '70 BGT, for the first few times I
> engage the clutch I hear a loud squeal sound for a few seconds before i 
> get
> up
> to speed in that gear. 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  3 09:13:49 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 09:13:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] ATTN: Californians
In-Reply-To: <C34F57CD.12ABA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <898525.82730.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Many car enthusiasts are against this bill, by the way -- they want
> to
> maintain the current situation where an "original CA black plate
> car" means something. 

So what *does* it mean?  Don't most states require all vehicles
to get new plates every few years when the design changes or
the reflective coating is assumed to be degraded?  Would the
presence of an old plate on a California car "mean" that it
had recently been found in a barn, or what?  Anyway, whatever 
it means it would be meaningless outside of California since
the plates would have to be replaced.  Here in Washington,
you can register a classic car with any set of plates from its
year of manufacture.  No one here would assume that those plates
have been on the car since it left the showroom, because the
state requires old plates to be replaced every few years.
That's why it's a coup to find plates from the year of
manufacture.  How is California different?

BTW, the plates on my MG were never issued - a collector
found a few sets in an old Auditor's office that was being
torn down.  My car is the first and only one to carry that
number - now *that's* unusual.

Picture: http://tildebang.com/mg/images/trim-32-1.jpg



David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Sat Nov  3 09:55:21 2007
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 09:55:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ATTN: Californians
In-Reply-To: <898525.82730.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C351F609.97B3%PRNDL@sonic.net>

> So what *does* it mean?

In California, It's a big deal among collectors to have a 1963 to 1969
"black plate" car. That means that the car has been continuously registered
from at least 1969 (the last year for black/yellow license plates). It is
especially desired for authentic restorations and demands a premium when the
car changes hands as it is not possible to get an original black/yellow
license plate for a car that has lost it's black plate due to being out of
state or un-registered for some period. It essentially means that the car
has been continuously registered in California since the late '60s. It's
another indication of provenance and it looks period cool. Welcome to
"California, The Car State"! If you're from another state it really doesn't
matter to you, it just matters to us.

-- 
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB (original black plate)

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Sat Nov  3 10:10:49 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 09:10:49 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: MM Mechanic for Marj's MM?
Message-ID: <23504356.1194109849916.JavaMail.root@elwamui-sweet.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Dear Listers,

This just came in from my friend Michael out in the SF Valley - car needs to be started after a long garage stay, master cylinder and parking brake work - please contact him directly at:

miniguy at miniguy.com

Thanks for any help that you can give.

Rick Feibusch
British Car Network
Venice Beach, California
---------------------------

>Rick-
>
>Hello again. I just left a voice mail for you. You mentioned you could ask around and try to find a competant mechanic out towards the Palm Springs, CA area (Riverside? Ontario?, Calimesa?) who could work on a Morris Minor.

>Please help!
>
>Thanks, I look forward to hearing from you...
>
Michael Lewis
Cell: (805) 405-6263   
(8 a.m. to 10 p.m. PST)
Email: miniguy at miniguy.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Nov  3 10:28:22 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 12:28:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ATTN: Californians
In-Reply-To: <898525.82730.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <898525.82730.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C36F01E9-0968-439A-8D7C-5869372F44A3@gmail.com>

Plates never change on a car in California, unless damaged, destroyed,  
or
stolen.

On Nov 3, 2007, at 11:13 AM, David Breneman wrote:

> --- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> Many car enthusiasts are against this bill, by the way -- they want
>> to
>> maintain the current situation where an "original CA black plate
>> car" means something.
>
> So what *does* it mean?  Don't most states require all vehicles
> to get new plates every few years when the design changes or
> the reflective coating is assumed to be degraded?  Would the
> presence of an old plate on a California car "mean" that it
> had recently been found in a barn, or what?  Anyway, whatever
> it means it would be meaningless outside of California since
> the plates would have to be replaced.  Here in Washington,
> you can register a classic car with any set of plates from its
> year of manufacture.  No one here would assume that those plates
> have been on the car since it left the showroom, because the
> state requires old plates to be replaced every few years.
> That's why it's a coup to find plates from the year of
> manufacture.  How is California different?
>
> BTW, the plates on my MG were never issued - a collector
> found a few sets in an old Auditor's office that was being
> torn down.  My car is the first and only one to carry that
> number - now *that's* unusual.
>
> Picture: http://tildebang.com/mg/images/trim-32-1.jpg
>
>
>
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From cgmoog at attglobal.net  Sat Nov  3 10:39:06 2007
From: cgmoog at attglobal.net (cgmoog at attglobal.net)
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 13:39:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ATTN: Californians
In-Reply-To: <898525.82730.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <898525.82730.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <472CB23A.3050801@attglobal.net>

Same as NY.  In NJ the plates are changed only when ownership changes, 
so if you are an original owner who has kept the car on the road since 
it was purchase you could have an original style plate.

I like the NY method, go to swap meets and find an old plate from your 
cars year.

David Breneman wrote:
> --- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> Here in Washington,
> you can register a classic car with any set of plates from its
> year of manufacture.  No one here would assume that those plates
> have been on the car since it left the showroom, because the
> state requires old plates to be replaced every few years.

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  3 15:06:22 2007
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 15:06:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Thanks for help:  Electrical Problem
Message-ID: <428038.67928.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Fellow Listers;
   
  Thanks to everyone who provided some advice with my electrical problem.  It turned out to be corroded contacts in the fuse box as well as corrosion in a fuseholder which controls the wipers/heater fan.  Glad I consulted the list, if I hadn't this repair would have taken much more time.
   
  Regards,
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sat Nov  3 16:53:36 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 23:53:36 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Was Attn californians, now "black plate cars"
Message-ID: <110320072353.3428.472D0A0000063C0600000D6422155558849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

> Many car enthusiasts are against this bill, by the way -- they want
> to
> maintain the current situation where an "original CA black plate
> car" means something. 

<<So what *does* it mean?  Don't most states require all vehicles
to get new plates every few years when the design changes or
the reflective coating is assumed to be degraded?>>

Snip

My thoughts have always been that a car would be more valuable because it's in a non rust belt area it's whole life.
Theoretically, of course.  There is rust in California, but areas like Ca. and AZ and NV. may be less humid, roads may not be salted in winter. Things like that. My MGA is a 59, was advertised as an "Original black plate ca. car" though it's plates are stamped '63
After spending a day sanding four layers of different color paints off the car, only the dog legs and lower area of drivers side front fender (below the brake master cyl. I suspect a connection) are rusted. The rest is bumper to bumper bondo, with occasional metal showing through. Car probably weighs an extra 100 lbs!

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Nov  3 17:18:54 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 17:18:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Was Attn californians, now "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <110320072353.3428.472D0A0000063C0600000D6422155558849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
References: <110320072353.3428.472D0A0000063C0600000D6422155558849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10711031718i548a9cfp27bf23d4dc043004@mail.gmail.com>

Prior to 1963 California plates were yellow with black letters.  In 1963 the
California DMV exchanged all of those plates for the black with yellow
letter ones.*  So if pre 1963 car was licensed in California in 1963, it got
plates stamped 1963.

*This caused lines like you cannot believe at the DMV.  The DMV learned
their lesson, and never did a wholesale plate exchange again.

Rick

On Nov 3, 2007 4:53 PM, <cyberemp at comcast.net> wrote:

> > Many car enthusiasts are against this bill, by the way -- they want
> > to
> > maintain the current situation where an "original CA black plate
> > car" means something.
>
> <<So what *does* it mean?  Don't most states require all vehicles
> to get new plates every few years when the design changes or
> the reflective coating is assumed to be degraded?>>
>
> Snip
>
> My thoughts have always been that a car would be more valuable because
> it's in a non rust belt area it's whole life.
> Theoretically, of course.  There is rust in California, but areas like Ca.
> and AZ and NV. may be less humid, roads may not be salted in winter. Things
> like that. My MGA is a 59, was advertised as an "Original black plate ca.
> car" though it's plates are stamped '63
> After spending a day sanding four layers of different color paints off the
> car, only the dog legs and lower area of drivers side front fender (below
> the brake master cyl. I suspect a connection) are rusted. The rest is bumper
> to bumper bondo, with occasional metal showing through. Car probably weighs
> an extra 100 lbs!
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sat Nov  3 17:45:20 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 19:45:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 widow's Midget
Message-ID: <000d01c81e7b$fbab5720$f3020560$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I went to Madison today, and brought back Mary's MKI Midget. The was the car
she and her late husband went on their first date in. The car has been off
the road since 1990. Mary thinks perhaps due to an axle issue. Just in case,
anyone have a spare wire wheel axle to donate to the cause?

 

I'm going to see if the motor spins freely tomorrow. If not, I'll start
soaking the bores in advance of SOS. If we're unable to resurrect the motor,
we'll see if any of the motors in the cars we're stripping are viable.

 

We'll have wheel complete hydraulics to rebuild, tune up, clean the fuel
system, etc. It should be a rewarding project.

 

WST

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From mvrose at charter.net  Sat Nov  3 18:37:05 2007
From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 18:37:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need 1980 MGB Rear End
Message-ID: <004001c81e83$3571ab10$aa43ba44@Primary>

I live in Richland, Washington and need a rear end for my 1980 MGB.  Has any
one in driving distance have one for sale that I could come and pick up.
Would be interested in one that is not in driving distance if shipping is
reasonable.  Please e-mail or call me at 509-308-1863.


Thanks


Merl Rosenthal

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  3 22:43:35 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 22:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Was Attn californians, now "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10711031718i548a9cfp27bf23d4dc043004@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:

> *This caused lines like you cannot believe at the DMV.  The DMV
> learned
> their lesson, and never did a wholesale plate exchange again.
>

Here in Washington all license tabs were due at the first of
the year, and there were massive lines (I remember standing
in such a line with my father in the 60s).  Then in the 70s
they started basing the renewal on the month in which you
bought your car.  But we still have to get new plates every
few years, probably so the retro-reflective surface will be
nice and targetable by laser speed traps.  Now we're even
starting to see a few parasitic red-light cameras - we've all
read what a revenue shakedown scam those are!  "Yeah, we'll
just reduce the yellow light from 8 seconds to 2 seconds!"



David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Nov  4 04:14:29 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:14:29 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>

The UK has had reflective plates for new cars since 1973 for reasons of 
visibility at night.  Cars older than that can still carry 'white on black', 
but they don't make any difference as far as laser speed guns (which don't 
use the number plate anyway), photographic speed traps, or automatic number 
plate recognition systems go.  Here plates only have to be replaced if 
damage affects 'normal' readability of the registration, reflection isn't 
measured.  There are reputed to be sprays you can apply to the front of the 
thick plastic sheet, which itself is very reflective to the flash used in 
some photographic speed traps, which renders the characters unreadable. 
Whilst it is illegal to render your number plate unreadable my any manual or 
automatic means the government may decide to introduce now or in the future, 
it isn't illegal to sell them :o).  There is also a transponder available 
which when it gets a 'hit' from a laser speed detector sends a signal back 
at a much higher velocity and preventing it from recording the vehicle 
speed.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  But we still have to get new plates every
> few years, probably so the retro-reflective surface will be
> nice and targetable by laser speed traps. 

From blair at ifd.mv.com  Sun Nov  4 05:32:55 2007
From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 07:32:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <001401c81ede$d4327a30$c9637dc7@Terrafirma>

There was a "Myth Busters" episode where they tried all those things... the 
spray, the plastic cover, going really fast (too fast for the camera)... 
none of them worked. They got a photo of the plate every time.

Blair


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "David Breneman" <david_breneman at yahoo.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 6:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] "black plate cars"


> The UK has had reflective plates for new cars since 1973 for reasons of
> visibility at night.  Cars older than that can still carry 'white on 
> black',
> but they don't make any difference as far as laser speed guns (which don't
> use the number plate anyway), photographic speed traps, or automatic 
> number
> plate recognition systems go.  Here plates only have to be replaced if
> damage affects 'normal' readability of the registration, reflection isn't
> measured.  There are reputed to be sprays you can apply to the front of 
> the
> thick plastic sheet, which itself is very reflective to the flash used in
> some photographic speed traps, which renders the characters unreadable.
> Whilst it is illegal to render your number plate unreadable my any manual 
> or
> automatic means the government may decide to introduce now or in the 
> future,
> it isn't illegal to sell them :o).  There is also a transponder available
> which when it gets a 'hit' from a laser speed detector sends a signal back
> at a much higher velocity and preventing it from recording the vehicle
> speed.
>
> PaulH.

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Sun Nov  4 07:24:59 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 09:24:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <003b01c81eee$7b72a5e0$7257f1a0$@com>

How would that work? Both light and RF travel pretty much at the speed of
light. I would think the very minute delay in creating the proper Doppler
shift and transmitting it would cause the original signal to get to the
camera just before the "doctored" one. Is there any documentation of such a
device working?

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----

There is also a transponder available 
which when it gets a 'hit' from a laser speed detector sends a signal back 
at a much higher velocity and preventing it from recording the vehicle 
speed.

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  4 08:09:55 2007
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 07:09:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket
Message-ID: <108404.74128.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Fellow Listers:
   
  Quick question:  When installing a new valve cover gasket, should one put some permatex sealant on one or both sides of the gasket (valve cover side and cyl head side) or should the gasket be installed completely "dry"?
   
  Thanks for the help....
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sun Nov  4 08:14:36 2007
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 09:14:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket
In-Reply-To: <108404.74128.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <108404.74128.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009301c81ef5$8894e7e0$99beb7a0$@net>

Matt,
You will get lots of opinions I am sure, but leaving it un coated on both
sides works fine.
Chad
'72B


Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket

Fellow Listers:
   
  Quick question:  When installing a new valve cover gasket, should one put
some permatex sealant on one or both sides of the gasket (valve cover side
and cyl head side) or should the gasket be installed completely "dry"?
   
  Thanks for the help....
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sun Nov  4 09:21:15 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:21:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket
References: <108404.74128.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003c01c81efe$b9626920$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>

Matt:
I can tell you how I do mine, I put liquid gasket on the vale cover, then
both sides of the gasket and on the cylinder head, I place the gasket on the
valve cover and hold the gasket in place with clothespins till everything is
tacky, then place the valve cover plus attached gasket onto the cylinder
head, never had a leaking problem and it's pretty mess free, really it
is!!!.



   ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matthew Milkevitch" <mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 10:09 AM
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket


> Fellow Listers:
>
>   Quick question:  When installing a new valve cover gasket, should one
put some permatex sealant on one or both sides of the gasket (valve cover
side and cyl head side) or should the gasket be installed completely "dry"?
>
>   Thanks for the help....
>
>   Matt Milkevitch
>   '74 BGT
> _______________________________________________
> 1971mgb at cox.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.20/1108 - Release Date:
11/3/2007 9:42 PM

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov  4 09:11:56 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 10:11:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket
References: <108404.74128.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006701c81efd$6cd114e0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Matt, Barney has a chapter on his site on this subject.

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/ch107.htm

I've always done most of this already and have to say it works well.


Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matthew Milkevitch" <mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 9:09 AM
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket


Fellow Listers:

  Quick question:  When installing a new valve cover gasket, should one put 
some permatex sealant on one or both sides of the gasket (valve cover side 
and cyl head side) or should the gasket be installed completely "dry"?

  Thanks for the help....

  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sun Nov  4 09:58:57 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 08:58:57 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <001501c81f03$fe375060$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Just curious:  What could be faster than a laser speed detector beam?  Don't 
they all travel at the speed of light?
Ron

"There is also a transponder available
 which when it gets a 'hit' from a laser speed detector sends a signal back
 at a much higher velocity and preventing it from recording the vehicle
 speed"

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  4 10:06:33 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 09:06:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <003b01c81eee$7b72a5e0$7257f1a0$@com>
Message-ID: <673181.46555.qm@web42108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Stephen West-fisher <steve at coastaldatasystems.com> wrote:

> How would that work? Both light and RF travel pretty much at the
> speed of
> light. I would think the very minute delay in creating the proper
> Doppler
> shift and transmitting it would cause the original signal to get to
> the
> camera just before the "doctored" one. Is there any documentation
> of such a device working?

I've never heard of a laser jammer, but most radar jammers
transmit all the time, usually generating a frequency modulated
sweep above and below the carrier frequency of the radar gun.
They're less effective now that many speeding-revenue-dependent
jurisdictions use wideband or sweep-frequency radar, called
Ka-band in the biz.  Radar jammers are illegal in the US because
you're operating a radio transmitter without an FCC license.
Laser jammers are not illegal because they're no more a 
transmitter than a flashlight is.  But like I said, their
effectiveness is dubious.  Here in Washington, the cops do
aim their laser guns at the license plates, which are
retro-reflective and send the pulse right back.  If you
aim at any other part of the car, the beam will scatter
which is why you can detect laser guns over hills and
around corners with a laser-compatible radar detector if
the conditions are right.  I've done so with my Valentine I
many times.



David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  4 11:21:01 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 10:21:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket
Message-ID: <705457.86713.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Matt,
   Like others will say; there are tons of methods recommended.
Here's my two cents.

- If the gasket is not deformed from packaging and
shipping, you can probably install it dry.  To do so, you need to have both
surfaces perfectly clean.

- many times the gaskets are a bit deformed and
jump out of the groove when you try to do them dry.  Again, make everything
clean as can be then cement the gasket into the valve cover.  I have some odd
bits of plexiglas about so I use that flat surface to hold the gasket in place
until the cement is somewhat dry - and holds the gasket adequately.

- I would
not put sealant on the gasket-to-head connection - ever.  If the gasket won't
seal, the problem is a bent cover or a dirty surface.

Best,

rick - lots of
valve jobs - lindsay


----- Original Message ----
From: Matthew Milkevitch
<mmilkevitch at yahoo.com>
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2007
9:09:55 AM
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket

Fellow Listers:
  
  Quick
question:  When installing a new valve cover gasket, should one put some
permatex sealant on one or both sides of the gasket (valve cover side and cyl
head side) or should the gasket be installed completely "dry"?
  
  Thanks for
the help....
  
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 BGT
_______________________________________________
rolindsay at yahoo.com

Edit your
replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Nov  4 12:16:28 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 12:16:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Was Attn californians, now "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <a3b984e10711031718i548a9cfp27bf23d4dc043004@mail.gmail.com>
	<322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200711041116s51627003t16fe950abfaa2105@mail.gmail.com>

In California, the yellow lights must be on for a minimum time --
determined according to the speed limit. Also, speed limits cannot be
set arbitrarily low.

Recently, in a city near me, someone who had received a red-light
ticket, timed the lights and found that the yellow time was too short.
The city had to refund many tickets. Of course, the city denied that
this had been deliberate.

Regards.


On 11/3/07, David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com> wrote:
> --- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > *This caused lines like you cannot believe at the DMV.  The DMV
> > learned
> > their lesson, and never did a wholesale plate exchange again.
> >
>
> Here in Washington all license tabs were due at the first of
> the year, and there were massive lines (I remember standing
> in such a line with my father in the 60s).  Then in the 70s
> they started basing the renewal on the month in which you
> bought your car.  But we still have to get new plates every
> few years, probably so the retro-reflective surface will be
> nice and targetable by laser speed traps.  Now we're even
> starting to see a few parasitic red-light cameras - we've all
> read what a revenue shakedown scam those are!  "Yeah, we'll
> just reduce the yellow light from 8 seconds to 2 seconds!"
>
>
>
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Nov  4 12:44:59 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 11:44:59 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Was Attn californians, now "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <40b437200711041116s51627003t16fe950abfaa2105@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a3b984e10711031718i548a9cfp27bf23d4dc043004@mail.gmail.com>
	<322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<40b437200711041116s51627003t16fe950abfaa2105@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10711041144k45d18992w48d49cf523199b82@mail.gmail.com>

After seeing a fatal collision at the intersection a few door down from my
house, I think the red light cameras should be removed and replaced with
heat seeking missiles.  Either that or sharks with freakin laser beams.
Rick

On Nov 4, 2007 11:16 AM, Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com> wrote:

> In California, the yellow lights must be on for a minimum time --
> determined according to the speed limit. Also, speed limits cannot be
> set arbitrarily low.
>
> Recently, in a city near me, someone who had received a red-light
> ticket, timed the lights and found that the yellow time was too short.
> The city had to refund many tickets. Of course, the city denied that
> this had been deliberate.
>
> Regards.
>
>
> On 11/3/07, David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > --- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > *This caused lines like you cannot believe at the DMV.  The DMV
> > > learned
> > > their lesson, and never did a wholesale plate exchange again.
> > >
> >
> > Here in Washington all license tabs were due at the first of
> > the year, and there were massive lines (I remember standing
> > in such a line with my father in the 60s).  Then in the 70s
> > they started basing the renewal on the month in which you
> > bought your car.  But we still have to get new plates every
> > few years, probably so the retro-reflective surface will be
> > nice and targetable by laser speed traps.  Now we're even
> > starting to see a few parasitic red-light cameras - we've all
> > read what a revenue shakedown scam those are!  "Yeah, we'll
> > just reduce the yellow light from 8 seconds to 2 seconds!"
> >
> >
> >
> > David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
> >
> > Edit your replies
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Nov  4 13:33:26 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 14:33:26 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Was Attn californians, now "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4F98010D-7C1E-4277-84D8-DAB3E932CFDD@gmail.com>

The red light camera was found to be unconstitutional in MN.
They didn't even get to the point of reducing the yellow light time.

Revenue vs safety.


On Nov 4, 2007, at 12:43 AM, David Breneman wrote:

> --- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> *This caused lines like you cannot believe at the DMV.  The DMV
>> learned
>> their lesson, and never did a wholesale plate exchange again.
>>
>
> Here in Washington all license tabs were due at the first of
> the year, and there were massive lines (I remember standing
> in such a line with my father in the 60s).  Then in the 70s
> they started basing the renewal on the month in which you
> bought your car.  But we still have to get new plates every
> few years, probably so the retro-reflective surface will be
> nice and targetable by laser speed traps.  Now we're even
> starting to see a few parasitic red-light cameras - we've all
> read what a revenue shakedown scam those are!  "Yeah, we'll
> just reduce the yellow light from 8 seconds to 2 seconds!"

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Nov  4 13:37:16 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 14:37:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <001401c81ede$d4327a30$c9637dc7@Terrafirma>
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c81ede$d4327a30$c9637dc7@Terrafirma>
Message-ID: <07F1BC58-4623-4938-B722-F9E985A2228B@gmail.com>

There is one that does work. Snow piled up on the plate. Happens a lot
up here in the winter.



On Nov 4, 2007, at 6:32 AM, Blair J. Weiss wrote:

> There was a "Myth Busters" episode where they tried all those  
> things... the
> spray, the plastic cover, going really fast (too fast for the  
> camera)...
> none of them worked. They got a photo of the plate every time.
>
> Blair
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Nov  4 08:39:01 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2007 10:39:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <003b01c81eee$7b72a5e0$7257f1a0$@com>
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
	<003b01c81eee$7b72a5e0$7257f1a0$@com>
Message-ID: <E1IonAA-0001Mf-DG@gamma.look.ca>

I am intrigued!  Can someone point me to the chat on this?  When I 
was working at Marconi in England way back in the 60s, there was a 
chap who was called in as an expert witness in a speeding case.  He, 
as a Marconi employee, has apparently developed the first cop radar 
catcher thing.  His testimony was that one could not beat the damn 
thing.  Now whether this was a Marconi official statement or was his 
engineering opinion I have no idea - BUT the latter seems reasonable 
as Marconi was just not into selling much less having a marketing 
strategy and that as they say is a whole new story!!

Interestingly enough Canadian Marconi for all the 60s were 
consistently awarded the contract for Doppler radar for the US 
military as Hughes, GE, Raytheon, et al just could not match their product.


At 09:24 AM 11/4/2007, Stephen West-fisher wrote:
>How would that work? Both light and RF travel pretty much at the speed of
>light. I would think the very minute delay in creating the proper Doppler
>shift and transmitting it would cause the original signal to get to the
>camera just before the "doctored" one. Is there any documentation of such a
>device working?
>
>--
>Stephen West-Fisher
>Coastal Data Systems
>727.599.4271
>http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>There is also a transponder available
>which when it gets a 'hit' from a laser speed detector sends a signal back
>at a much higher velocity and preventing it from recording the vehicle
>speed.
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From RampantNM at aol.com  Sun Nov  4 15:00:46 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 17:00:46 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Minilite from minilite.co.uk vs Minilite replica vs
 Panasport for M...
Message-ID: <d1c.16d21ea4.345f9b0e@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/31/2007 7:13:27 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
sammler at bellsouth.net writes:

First -  if I could find new steel wheels I'd probably go for them ;-)

If  someone has advice or warnings about purchasing the Minilite replica 
wheel  please let me know.

_http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-MGBGT-New-15x5-5-Minator-Alloy-Wheels_W
0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140747QQihZ004QQitemZ140173473013QQtcZphoto_ 
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-MGBGT-New-15x5-5-Minator-Alloy-Wheels_W0QQcmdZ
ViewItemQQcategoryZ140747QQihZ004QQitemZ140173473013QQtcZphoto) 

 
This fellow  on ebay only has MGB wheels right now, but contact him for 
Spridget  wheels.  I got wheels for my BGT from him and I'm quite satisfied.   
Cheapest I've seen anywhere.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  4 17:09:05 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 16:09:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] A little progress...
Message-ID: <95038.93265.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
 
  Made a little progress this weekend.  Trial fitted the
MGB's bumper and installed the newly restored grill.
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0792.JPG  Yes, I skipped the over-riders but I
like the look without them.  Same with the extra trim ring in the grill.
Still, I haven't violated the first principle: make no irreversible changes.
The new octagon in the grill adds a crisp new look.
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0796.JPG
 
That's it, for now.  I still have the
brakes to finish but I just had to work on the fun stuff for a while.
regards,
 
rick

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  4 17:12:17 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 16:12:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] A little progress...
Message-ID: <762675.4762.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I wrote:

>   Made a little progress this weekend.  Trial fitted the
> MGB's
bumper and installed the newly restored grill.
>
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0792.JPG  

Yep, that's the mouth of an air horn.
I had it left over from the Ferrari restoration and the stock MG horns are
trashed.  Ergo, the MGB speaks Italian.

rick

From blair at ifd.mv.com  Sun Nov  4 17:57:18 2007
From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 19:57:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c81ede$d4327a30$c9637dc7@Terrafirma>
	<07F1BC58-4623-4938-B722-F9E985A2228B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006601c81f46$d14ee700$c9637dc7@Terrafirma>

Paul -
Ha! Your right about that one...

Blair

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Root" <ptrmgb at gmail.com>
To: "Blair J. Weiss" <blair at ifd.mv.com>
Cc: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; "David Breneman" 
<david_breneman at yahoo.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] "black plate cars"


> There is one that does work. Snow piled up on the plate. Happens a lot
> up here in the winter.
>
>
>
> On Nov 4, 2007, at 6:32 AM, Blair J. Weiss wrote:
>
>> There was a "Myth Busters" episode where they tried all those  things... 
>> the
>> spray, the plastic cover, going really fast (too fast for the  camera)...
>> none of them worked. They got a photo of the plate every time.
>>
>> Blair
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sun Nov  4 18:49:25 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 20:49:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
Message-ID: <006d01c81f4e$183166a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>

o.k. folks, I need some help in diagnosing a problem on my MGB (engine is a
1969) , bottom line is the car is running anemic, here is what I did: changed
from HIF4 to HS4 carburetors, originally I was running with the standard
needle I then changed needles to the richer mixture, it didn't seem to make
any difference, I have K&N filters on the carburetors. The car is running as
if I were heading into a head wind, it appears that I have very little get up
and go in first and second gear, third gear gives me a little more giddy up
and go, on a flat surface the car runs great but as soon as I start going up
an incline the car looses speed and runs anemic, no matter how much I depress
the accelerator.  I'm thinking valves? need a compression check? going back to
the HIF4's? by the way timing is set pretty much dead on, if anything it may
be just a wee bit advanced.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 02:18:21 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 09:18:21 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com><00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
	<003b01c81eee$7b72a5e0$7257f1a0$@com>
Message-ID: <00be01c81f8d$2ccc5ea0$0200a8c0@Three>

You can find any number of adverts and claims via Google, which are 
meaningless in themselves, but how about this successful prosecution: 
http://www.guardian.co.uk/transport/Story/0,,2159745,00.html

I think you will find it is the reflected signal *plus* the additional 
transponder signal that confuses the speed gun, it can't separate the two. 
It needs to receive its own signal as well as be able to filter out all 
background clutter to show an accurate reading, otherwise it would be 
capable of displaying speeds for stationary vehicles (which I'm sure the 
Police would love).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> How would that work? Both light and RF travel pretty much at the speed of
> light. I would think the very minute delay in creating the proper Doppler
> shift and transmitting it would cause the original signal to get to the
> camera just before the "doctored" one. Is there any documentation of such 
> a
> device working?
> -----Original Message-----
>
> There is also a transponder available
> which when it gets a 'hit' from a laser speed detector sends a signal back
> at a much higher velocity and preventing it from recording the vehicle
> speed.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 02:07:55 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 09:07:55 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
References: <322382.44323.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00a501c81ed5$26436f00$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001401c81ede$d4327a30$c9637dc7@Terrafirma>
Message-ID: <00bd01c81f8d$2caaf3f0$0200a8c0@Three>

This was done in the UK, but it took a motor bike travelling in excess of 
170mph to do it.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> There was a "Myth Busters" episode where they tried all those things... .. 
> going really fast (too fast for the camera)... ... They got a photo of the 
> plate every time.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 02:48:52 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 09:48:52 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket
References: <108404.74128.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <012e01c81f91$61552c70$0200a8c0@Three>

Depends.  On the type and quality/thickness of gasket, whether your cover 
has any 'crush', whether you replace the rubber gaskets under the domed 
washers on top of the cover, etc.  Leaks from this gasket are very common, 
and unless you intend to remove the cover on a frequent basis you can go as 
far as gluing the gasket to the cover, then using a semi-hardening sealant 
to the head, and it will still allow you to remove the cover for occasional 
valve checking.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>  Quick question:  When installing a new valve cover gasket, should one put 
> some permatex sealant on one or both sides of the gasket (valve cover side 
> and cyl head side) or should the gasket be installed completely "dry"?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 02:40:40 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 09:40:40 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
References: <006d01c81f4e$183166a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <012d01c81f91$613aedb0$0200a8c0@Three>

You say 'anaemic, do you mean running with a weak mixture as indicated by 
the plugs and stumbling on acceleration or just lack of power?  If weak have 
you checked for things air leaks round the manifold and poor fuel delivery? 
Lack of performance can be caused by any number of things from dragging 
brakes to expecting too much from the car if you are used to modern 
rice-rockets.  Are you comparing it to another B?  Or was your car running 
properly and it has changed to running poorly?  If the latter, what did you 
do immediately before this started happening!?

A compression test is easy enough to do, do a wet and a dry, on a hot engine 
with  all plugs out and the throttle wedged wide open.  After that it is a 
matter of going through all the setting-up adjustments like valve 
clearances, plug gaps, points gap/dwell, timing including centrifugal and 
vacuum advance curves.  You say timing is 'correct', but correct to what as 
the original spec would have been for leaded fuel of higher octane than 
today.  These days the best setting is probably the one that is just short 
of pinking at any combination of throttle opening, engine speed and load. 
Only when all that has been done and any defects corrected should you 
finally set the carbs up for correct air-flow and mixture balance from first 
principles.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> o.k. folks, I need some help in diagnosing a problem on my MGB (engine is 
> a
> 1969) , bottom line is the car is running anemic, here is what I did: 

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Mon Nov  5 05:14:59 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 07:14:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
References: <006d01c81f4e$183166a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<012d01c81f91$613aedb0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <000701c81fa5$7ca01530$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>

Paul, I've driven this car as a daily driver for the past 14 years, and
thought the car was running strong till I changed carburetors ( ease of
working on t the carb's if needed prompted that change) and it's just lack
of power, I'll change back over to my old carburetors today and see what
happens,



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>; "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] anemic running B


> You say 'anaemic, do you mean running with a weak mixture as indicated by
> the plugs and stumbling on acceleration or just lack of power?  If weak
have
> you checked for things air leaks round the manifold and poor fuel
delivery?
> Lack of performance can be caused by any number of things from dragging
> brakes to expecting too much from the car if you are used to modern
> rice-rockets.  Are you comparing it to another B?  Or was your car running
> properly and it has changed to running poorly?  If the latter, what did
you
> do immediately before this started happening!?
>
> A compression test is easy enough to do, do a wet and a dry, on a hot
engine
> with  all plugs out and the throttle wedged wide open.  After that it is a
> matter of going through all the setting-up adjustments like valve
> clearances, plug gaps, points gap/dwell, timing including centrifugal and
> vacuum advance curves.  You say timing is 'correct', but correct to what
as
> the original spec would have been for leaded fuel of higher octane than
> today.  These days the best setting is probably the one that is just short
> of pinking at any combination of throttle opening, engine speed and load.
> Only when all that has been done and any defects corrected should you
> finally set the carbs up for correct air-flow and mixture balance from
first
> principles.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > o.k. folks, I need some help in diagnosing a problem on my MGB (engine
is
> > a
> > 1969) , bottom line is the car is running anemic, here is what I did:
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.20/1108 - Release Date:
11/3/2007 9:42 PM

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 06:09:36 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 13:09:36 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
References: <006d01c81f4e$183166a0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<012d01c81f91$613aedb0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<000701c81fa5$7ca01530$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <00bf01c81fae$2499f820$0200a8c0@Three>

OK, so the problem started when changing from HIFs to HSs.  HSs are 
marginally preferable from an owners point of view, and you should get the 
same performance out of both.  After everything else make sure you set the 
throttle cable correctly.  When released there should be a little bit of 
slack in the cable so the butterflies aren't hanging on it but are resting 
on the idle screws.  You must also be able to get full butterfly travel 
using the pedal, but the pedal stop on the toe-board must stop the pedal 
just as the carbs reach fully open so the cable isn't stretched.  These are 
achieved by a combination of adjusting the inner cable clamp at the carbs 
and the pedal back-stop bolt.  Also check that the pistons are free to rise 
and fall and don't rub on the piston cover or anything else.  The correct 
way to check this is by a 'drop test' - see here 
http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0006.html.

Check the dampers with the engine running, air cleaners removed, open the 
throttle sharply and check both pistons rise together and are retarded by 
the damper, but drop smartly back down again when the throttle is closed.

If you have fixed needles check the piston drops back down onto the bridge 
with a metallic click, do this with the jet raised at least one turn so you 
know it will still be free with the jets down in their correct positions 
(different needles noted).

Check for vacuum leaks round the manifold joints with carb cleaner or 
preferably propane gas.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Paul, I've driven this car as a daily driver for the past 14 years, and
> thought the car was running strong till I changed carburetors ( ease of
> working on t the carb's if needed prompted that change) and it's just lack
> of power, I'll change back over to my old carburetors today and see what
> happens,

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Nov  5 06:39:01 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 07:39:01 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 shop prep
Message-ID: <001c01c81fb1$3c1f8430$b45e8c90$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

We're getting the Thicko International Headquarters Shop whipped into shape
for the upcoming SOS '07.  This will be our 3rd winter at the Dream Farm. It
is a massive undertaking to get all the crap. I mean spares that I've
accumulated in my 37 years in this hobby. I could spend  2 solid weeks just
organizing engines, heads, cams, body parts, and other miscellaneous bits
over in the cold storage side of the shop. But for the meantime, the heated
shop is getting the attention. 

 

We'll have multiple impacts, air ratchets, toolboxes so no one need wait on
a tool to get something accomplished. If the usual 20+ folks show up each
day, we can break into groups of 4 or 5 to attack each project en masse. I
might ask that some of you bring a set of jackstands, or a Horrible Freight
aluminum jack if you can bring it with you.

 

WST

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon Nov  5 06:59:14 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 01:59:14 -1200
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
Message-ID: <472f21b2.30b.44af.304158864@ml2.myemail.com>

MG distributors used two methods of ignition (timing)
control. One is manifold vacuum controlled - off the intake
manifold, the other is 'ported' - the take off is just
outside the throttle butterfly. Mix up the two and your car
won't run right. 

My other thought (two for the price of one!) is fuel supply.
How well is the pump pumping? How well are any filters
flowing? 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


> Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
> To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>

> o.k. folks, I need some help in diagnosing a problem on my
> MGB (engine is a 1969) , bottom line is the car is running
> anemic, here is what I did: changed from HIF4 to HS4
> carburetors, originally I was running with the standard
> needle I then changed needles to the richer mixture, it
> didn't seem to make any difference, I have K&N filters on
> the carburetors. The car is running as if I were heading
> into a head wind, it appears that I have very little get
> up and go in first and second gear, third gear gives me a
> little more giddy up and go, on a flat surface the car
> runs great but as soon as I start going up an incline the
> car looses speed and runs anemic, no matter how much I
> depress the accelerator.  I'm thinking valves? need a
> compression check? going back to the HIF4's? by the way
> timing is set pretty much dead on, if anything it may be
> just a wee bit advanced.
Login from home, work, school.  Anywhere!

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 07:35:24 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 14:35:24 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
References: <472f21b2.30b.44af.304158864@ml2.myemail.com>
Message-ID: <00f601c81fba$d0c79ce0$0200a8c0@Three>

Not so, this is an oft repeated error.  Apart from at idle and fractionally 
off it the resulting vacuum advance is identical through the throttle range. 
The carb port is not outside butterfly (that is where the manifold port is) 
but under the edge of the butterfly when it is at idle where it gets 
negligible vacuum.  But as soon as the butterfly opens a little way, no more 
than its thickness, the port is exposed to the full manifold vacuum outside 
the carb i.e. where the manifold port is.  I did my own tests switching 
between the two and documented the results, showing that the throttle only 
has to be opened a very small amount, much less than cruising position, for 
the vacuum to be the same, see 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_ignitionframe.htm and click on 'Vacuum 
Advance - Carb vs Manifold'.  At anything more than moderate acceleration 
there is no vacuum advance from either to prevent pinking with the higher 
combustion pressures, it is only there to give improved cruising mileage 
although it does sharpen part-throttle acceleration as well.  UK cars only 
moved from carb to manifold in 77, but kept the same engine and distributor 
when they did so and for the whole of rubber bumper production.  American 
engines, carbs and distributors only changed so frequently because of the 
continual running battle to stay within the steadily reducing pollution 
limits.  The only reason it changed anyway is that the higher advance at 
idle results in a higher rpm for a given throttle opening, so the idle can 
be turned down a bit, reducing fuel consumption and hence pollution.  The 
irony is that eventually American cars got so much anti-pollution stuff that 
it started causing running problems, so vacuum advance had to be limited to 
4th gear only, and in some cases disabled altogether.

PaulH.
.
----- Original Message ----- 
> MG distributors used two methods of ignition (timing)
> control. One is manifold vacuum controlled - off the intake
> manifold, the other is 'ported' - the take off is just
> outside the throttle butterfly. Mix up the two and your car
> won't run right.

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Nov  5 08:04:16 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 10:04:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] valve cover gasket
Message-ID: <20071105.101036.3356.9.MGBOB@juno.com>

Matt,
    You will get plenty of opinions on this question.
    What I do is to use permatex on the gasket surface that fits into the
rocker cover, then clamp in place for a few minutes while the goo sets.
There is a tendency for gasket to move out of the little guides when
cover is being installed, and the permatex keeps it in place.  I do not
use permatex on the surface that contacts the head.  
     Done this way, you can remove the cover several times for valve
adjustments w/o damaging the cork gasket.
     If you have been having bad leaks, check that the valve cover is not
distorted. Putit onto a flat surface and check that it sets flat.
(Kitchen counters are good) 
Bob

On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 07:09:55 -0800 (PST) Matthew Milkevitch
<mmilkevitch at yahoo.com> writes:
> Fellow Listers:
>    
>   Quick question:  When installing a new valve cover gasket, should 
> one put some permatex sealant on one or both sides of the gasket 
> (valve cover side and cyl head side) or should the gasket be 
> installed completely "dry"?
>    
>   Thanks for the help....
>    
>   Matt Milkevitch
>   '74 BGT

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Nov  5 08:01:46 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 10:01:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
Message-ID: <20071105.101036.3356.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

David,
   Is the reflected laser beam reflected sufficiently away from the laser
gun's receiver if the licence plate is tilted down a few degrees, or
dispersed if the licence plate is bowed?
Bob


 But like I said, their
> effectiveness is dubious.  Here in Washington, the cops do
> aim their laser guns at the license plates, which are
> retro-reflective and send the pulse right back.  If you
> aim at any other part of the car, the beam will scatter
> which is why you can detect laser guns over hills and
> around corners with a laser-compatible radar detector if
> the conditions are right.  I've done so with my Valentine I
> many times.
> 
> 
> 
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  5 08:48:11 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 07:48:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] A little progress...
In-Reply-To: <95038.93265.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <997849.31399.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote: Hello Friends,
 
  Made a little progress this weekend.  Trial fitted the
MGB's bumper and installed the newly restored grill.
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0792.JPG  Yes, I skipped the over-riders but I
like the look without them.  Same with the extra trim ring in the grill.
Still, I haven't violated the first principle: make no irreversible changes.
The new octagon in the grill adds a crisp new look.
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0796.JPG
 
That's it, for now.  I still have the
brakes to finish but I just had to work on the fun stuff for a while.
regards,
 
---------------------
Looks good, Rick. I still have my engine 1/2 apart. I've started to make a list of parts needed (rings, bearings, etc.). But that's about it.




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Nov  5 09:23:16 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 08:23:16 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
In-Reply-To: <000701c81fa5$7ca01530$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0A7C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Check to make sure you did not install the air filter to carb gaskets
incorrectly. If they are upside down they block the vacuum port to the
piston which will make the car really sluggish.

Juat a thought, since you did a carb change.

Also make sure that the float bowl vents are hooked up correctly. If
these are plugged you will start to run out of fuel under load.

Kelvin Dodd




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb
> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 4:15 AM
> To: MG LIST
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] anemic running B
>
> Paul, I've driven this car as a daily driver for the past 14
> years, and thought the car was running strong till I changed
> carburetors ( ease of working on t the carb's if needed
> prompted that change) and it's just lack of power, I'll
> change back over to my old carburetors today and see what happens,

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 09:22:05 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 16:22:05 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
References: <20071105.101036.3356.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <013b01c81fc9$8930bf60$0200a8c0@Three>

It's nothing to do with the numberplate, reflective or otherwise, and most 
of them use radar signals.  With either it bounces off the whole of the 
front of the car and only a portion of the reflected signal is required to 
get a reading.  With a 'stealth' car with no curved surfaces (which reflect 
in many directions) and every flat surface facing away from the gun you 
*might* get away with it.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   Is the reflected laser beam reflected sufficiently away from the laser
> gun's receiver if the licence plate is tilted down a few degrees, or
> dispersed if the licence plate is bowed?

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  5 10:20:48 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 09:20:48 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <20071105.101036.3356.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <C35490F0.12BF5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Probably not. "Retro-reflective" plates use tiny embedded glass beads, so
that a significant propoportion of any light that hits them is reflected
directly back at the source, regardless of angle. This is different than a
mirror, for example, which will redirect the beam depending on the angle.



on 11/5/07 7:01 AM, Bob Howard at mgbob at juno.com wrote:

> David,
>    Is the reflected laser beam reflected sufficiently away from the laser
> gun's receiver if the licence plate is tilted down a few degrees, or
> dispersed if the licence plate is bowed?
> Bob
> 
> 
>  But like I said, their
>> effectiveness is dubious.  Here in Washington, the cops do
>> aim their laser guns at the license plates, which are
>> retro-reflective and send the pulse right back.  If you
>> aim at any other part of the car, the beam will scatter
>> which is why you can detect laser guns over hills and
>> around corners with a laser-compatible radar detector if
>> the conditions are right.  I've done so with my Valentine I
>> many times.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Nov  5 13:39:18 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 21:39:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0A7C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <008c01c81feb$efd52cc0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

How about the right needle type?

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>; "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] anemic running B


> Check to make sure you did not install the air filter to carb gaskets
> incorrectly. If they are upside down they block the vacuum port to the
> piston which will make the car really sluggish.
> 
> Juat a thought, since you did a carb change.
> 
> Also make sure that the float bowl vents are hooked up correctly. If
> these are plugged you will start to run out of fuel under load.
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb
>> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 4:15 AM
>> To: MG LIST
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] anemic running B
>>
>> Paul, I've driven this car as a daily driver for the past 14
>> years, and thought the car was running strong till I changed
>> carburetors ( ease of working on t the carb's if needed
>> prompted that change) and it's just lack of power, I'll
>> change back over to my old carburetors today and see what happens,

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  5 15:33:04 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 14:33:04 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
Message-ID: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

This morning I noticed a full page ad in my newspaper for an object called a
"Ford Fusion". The headline was: "Safety. Fast."

So, who has standing to sue?


;-)


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Nov  5 15:46:42 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 14:46:42 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
In-Reply-To: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10711051446s4d877a22rc95ffd5921419e2b@mail.gmail.com>

Probably nobody.  Safety fast was the motto of a company that no longer
exists.
For a defense, Ford would probably say that you are reading two sentences
which is not the same as the motto.
Safety.  Fast.  is not the same as
Safety fast

$0.02
Rick

On Nov 5, 2007 2:33 PM, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> This morning I noticed a full page ad in my newspaper for an object called
> a
> "Ford Fusion". The headline was: "Safety. Fast."
>
> So, who has standing to sue?
>
>
> ;-)
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Nov  5 15:50:43 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 14:50:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
In-Reply-To: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200711051450s1501b021u91b5c3daa52651ad@mail.gmail.com>

Max,

A quick search on the USPTO's website would suggest that nobody can
sue. That is not the end of it, since (in the US, at least),
trademarks don't have to be registered. However, in order to retain
the right to a trademark, it has to be in active use.

Regards,
Simon

On 11/5/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> This morning I noticed a full page ad in my newspaper for an object called a
> "Ford Fusion". The headline was: "Safety. Fast."
>
> So, who has standing to sue?
>
>
> ;-)
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  5 16:27:21 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 15:27:21 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
In-Reply-To: <40b437200711051450s1501b021u91b5c3daa52651ad@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C354E6D9.12C4F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I was kidding, of course, about litigation. When a slogan has not been used
in the US for 27 years (at least), I would imagine it is not enforceable. On
the other hand, if it were, the mere substitution of a few punctuation marks
would not have been a defense. Trademarks are interpreted fairly broadly
when it comes to directly competing products in the same market (cars vs.
cars, or PCs vs. PCs), as anyone who has tried to butt heads with the likes
of Microsoft or Apple can tell you.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/5/07 2:50 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> Max,
> 
> A quick search on the USPTO's website would suggest that nobody can
> sue. That is not the end of it, since (in the US, at least),
> trademarks don't have to be registered. However, in order to retain
> the right to a trademark, it has to be in active use.
> 
> Regards,
> Simon
> 
> On 11/5/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> This morning I noticed a full page ad in my newspaper for an object called a
>> "Ford Fusion". The headline was: "Safety. Fast."
>> 
>> So, who has standing to sue?
>> 
>> 
>> ;-)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From montejane at gmail.com  Mon Nov  5 19:34:06 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:34:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
In-Reply-To: <008c01c81feb$efd52cc0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0A7C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<008c01c81feb$efd52cc0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0711051834h56afd7davf73bd07e4fe669af@mail.gmail.com>

I had this happen  at highway speeds several days after I'd converted to
oval foam air filters on my HIF's. When I removed a filter, a bolt that
holds the alloy back plate adaptor (and the gasket) in place had fallen out
enough to allow the gasket to fall down and partially cover the carb inlet
opening. Had the same symptoms you're having.
Monte


On 11/5/07, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>
> How about the right needle type?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
> To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>; "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 5:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] anemic running B
>
>
> > Check to make sure you did not install the air filter to carb gaskets
> > incorrectly. If they are upside down they block the vacuum port to the
> > piston which will make the car really sluggish.
> >
> > Juat a thought, since you did a carb change.
> >
> > Also make sure that the float bowl vents are hooked up correctly. If
> > these are plugged you will start to run out of fuel under load.
> >
> > Kelvin Dodd
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> >> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> >> Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb
> >> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 4:15 AM
> >> To: MG LIST
> >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] anemic running B
> >>
> >> Paul, I've driven this car as a daily driver for the past 14
> >> years, and thought the car was running strong till I changed
> >> carburetors ( ease of working on t the carb's if needed
> >> prompted that change) and it's just lack of power, I'll
> >> change back over to my old carburetors today and see what happens,
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  5 21:20:27 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:20:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] "black plate cars"
In-Reply-To: <20071105.101036.3356.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <459460.52691.qm@web42109.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

> David,
>    Is the reflected laser beam reflected sufficiently away from the
> laser
> gun's receiver if the licence plate is tilted down a few degrees,
> or dispersed if the licence plate is bowed?

No, because the nature of a retro-reflector is that it
bounces the light back in the direction from which it
arrived.  The easiest way to accomplish this is to imbed
thousands of small glass beads in the surface.  This is
the method used on street signs and painted lines on
roads.  In fact, when the lines are painted on the road,
the painters scatter handfulls of tiny glass beads over
the paint before it dries to achive the retro-reflectivity.
This is also the way a glass-beaded projection screen is
made, which it why such screens work well in rooms with
a lot of ambient light if you're sitting near the axis of
the projector, but don't work well if you're off the the side.
It's also the way front-projection photography works.
Remember the "stone age" scenes in "2001"?  How the tigers'
eyes glowed?  That's because the "background" was projected
via a semi-silvered mirror in front of the camera onto a
glass beaded screen behind the actors.  Just like any
animal in the headlights, the tigers' eyes reflected some of
the light back to the camera.

If you look at a sphere, and remember that the angle
of reflection is equal to the angle of incidence, you
will see that no matter what angle the light enters the
bead, it will be bonced straight back to the source.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  5 22:19:17 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 21:19:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
In-Reply-To: <C354E6D9.12C4F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <642703.52092.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I was kidding, of course, about litigation. When a slogan has not
> been used
> in the US for 27 years (at least), I would imagine it is not
> enforceable.

Believe it or not, the current owners of RCA Victor Records
have abandoned the "His Master's Voice" trademark, the most
recognized trademark in the world.  Thompson, the owner of
RCA's home electronics business still enforces it, but as far
as I can tell it will never appear on another sound recording
again as EMI gave up up years ago, except as the name of a
chain of record stores.  What a waste.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Tue Nov  6 00:23:41 2007
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 23:23:41 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0A7C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0A7C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <4730167D.2020701@cox.net>

Dodd, Kelvin wrote:

>Check to make sure you did not install the air filter to carb gaskets
>incorrectly. If they are upside down they block the vacuum port to the
>piston which will make the car really sluggish.
>  
>
I would also make sure the linkages are tight so both throttle 
butterflies are opening. It's an easy thing to forget. (please don't ask :-)

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov  5 09:49:15 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 16:49:15 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] anemic running B
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0A7C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <005201c82050$002ada20$0200a8c0@Three>

Getting these wrong (either the inlet connected to the vent or the vent 
blocked) is usually immediately obvious as severe flooding.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Also make sure that the float bowl vents are hooked up correctly. If
> these are plugged you will start to run out of fuel under load.

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Tue Nov  6 01:50:00 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 08:50:00 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
References: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<a3b984e10711051446s4d877a22rc95ffd5921419e2b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF77E@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

"...Safety fast was the motto of a company that no longer exists..."

You what???  MG may not have sold a car in the US for 27 years, but that
doesn't mean they don't exist.  OK, they've been through a few hands in
the intervening years, but there has never been a period of more than a
couple of years without an MG-branded vehicle on the market.  There are
MGs for sale today in China, and they'll be available to buy in the UK
again early next year.

Having said that, it's been a fair few years since they have used the
Safety Fast logo in their advertising.  It's still used as the name of
the MG Car Club magazine.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
  ________________________________________________________________________
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MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
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537 8635 08)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Nov  6 01:46:39 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 08:46:39 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
References: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<a3b984e10711051446s4d877a22rc95ffd5921419e2b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00f101c82052$1a0b1480$0200a8c0@Three>

That's not correct.  Someone, somewhere, still owns the intellectual 
property rights - assuming the motto was registered by MG at the time.  At 
the very least the MGCC may have a claim as it is still in use by them.  As 
far as full stops (periods) go it could be argued that it was just a defect 
in the printing.  My mother was a legal secretary for many years and told me 
it is for that reason that legal documents don't usually have punctuation 
marks but split sentences up into paragraphs.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Probably nobody.  Safety fast was the motto of a company that no longer
> exists.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Tue Nov  6 06:11:25 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:11:25 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 the webcast part 1
Message-ID: <003e01c82076$8b63ea70$a22bbf50$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

The shop is just about cleaned up and SOS ready. For the past couple of
days, I've had one of the webcams up and running from the back wall of the
shop. Over the next couple of days, I'll be moving the camera around to get
various shots and angles sorted out. If you're logged in to Yahoo Messenger,
you should see <Floundervision> in your friends list, and a little camera
icon there. Click on that to view the webcam, and ping via instant message
me to let me know how it looks. Perhaps by the weekend I'll have the audio
hooked up so we can test "real time" questions.

 

Here's how it works during SOS. If you've added <Floundervision> to your
Yahoo Messenger friends list, you'll be invited to a conference. In that
conference, you as the viewer, and those of us in the shop, can write back
and forth. You in the conference can view our webcam, and also hear the
audio. If you have a microphone, you can also speak and be heard by
conference participants and those of us in the shop.  We cannot, however
view your webcam. We also cannot participate in private instant message
conversations while we're in the conference. OK?

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Tue Nov  6 06:30:34 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:30:34 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 the webcast part 2
Message-ID: <004401c82079$3a936910$afba3b30$@com>

Part 2

 

During the broadcast, we'll have a laptop and camera rolling around the shop
giving a variety of views of the various projects and people working on
them. If you as the viewer want to take a closer look at something, just
ask. There will be speakers in the shop so we can hear all the comments and
smartassed remarks, and a mic so we can respond.

 

About a dozen new viewers have added <Floundervision> to their friends list
over the last week. Get your Yahoo ID and download Yahoo Messenger from
http://messenger.yahoo.com/. Add <floundervision> to your friends list.

 

WST

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Nov  6 07:49:05 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 09:49:05 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
Message-ID: <d18.16aa10d5.3461d8e1@aol.com>

In a message dated 06/11/2007 12:46:38 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
r.gosling at penspen.com writes:

You  what???  MG may not have sold a car in the US for 27 years, but  that
doesn't mean they don't exist.  OK, they've been through a few  hands in
the intervening years, but there has never been a period of more  than a
couple of years without an MG-branded vehicle on the market.   There are
MGs for sale today in China, and they'll be available to buy in  the UK
again early next year.



 
____________________________________


To think that the present Chinese owned MG has any direct connection with  
the company we revere is to delude yourself. It is no more the same entity than  
the late and unlamented Jensen attempted resurrection, or the Bugatti, or any 
 number of others attempting to flog cars using a name with some recognition 
in  the marketplace, but without continuity of tradition.
 
In my humble submission, anyway.
 
Bill S.

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Tue Nov  6 08:14:34 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 15:14:34 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
References: <d18.16aa10d5.3461d8e1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF77F@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Ah, but with MG (unlike Bugatti or Jensen) there is continuity, or damn
close to it.

After production of the MGB and Midget stopped there were just a couple
of years of MG-less-ness before first the MG Metro, then Maestro and
Montego came out - cars built by the same company (British Leyland, by
then re-named Austin Rover), souped-up versions of Austin cars.  Claims
that they weren't real MGs will be referred to the Magnettes, the
Y-series, and indeed the first ever MG 14/28 as souped-up versions of
standard saloon cars.

Within a year of the Montego and Maestro coming to an end the MG RV8
came into limited production - and you can't tell me that isn't a real
MG.  Production of the RV8 finished about the time the MGF was launched,
and that remained in production until MG Rover went bust a couple of
years ago, the last few years also saw the MG ZR, ZS and ZT range of
uprated saloons and hatches.

The company may now be Chinese-owned, but MGFs will be rolling out of
the Birmingham factory early next year (we are promised), as well as the
factory in China.

I appreciate that most of this has not been visible from the States, and
you have not seen any MG-badged car since 1980, but the continuity of
tradition in this country has been good enough to satisfy me.  IMHO, of
course!


Richard & Sammy
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
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From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Nov  6 08:21:37 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 10:21:37 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
Message-ID: <d50.1713d3b9.3461e081@aol.com>

In a message dated 06/11/2007 7:11:32 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
r.gosling at penspen.com writes:

there  were just a couple
of years of MG-less-ness


Ah - a state devoutly desired by She-who-must-be-obeyed, but since 1970 not  
experienced here!
 
Bill

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue Nov  6 10:01:18 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 10:01:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
In-Reply-To: <00f101c82052$1a0b1480$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <C354DA20.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<a3b984e10711051446s4d877a22rc95ffd5921419e2b@mail.gmail.com>
	<00f101c82052$1a0b1480$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <40b437200711060901o4159b58dhb007b017140fbcd6@mail.gmail.com>

Paul,

Trademarks are not like Patents or Copyrights.

Under US laws, unless you are actively using a trademark, you lose it.
However, I think your point that the MGCC probably has the best claim
to it as a trademark is probably correct.

The US recognizes a concept or registered trademarks and unregistered
trademarks. No one has a current registration of "safety fast". Also,
Trademarks are only valid to your particular business area. For
example, I could start a computer consulting company and use the term
"safety fast" on the basis that it has nothing to do with cars, so I
would be safe

IANAL and other disclaimers!

Regards,
Simon

On 11/6/07, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> That's not correct.  Someone, somewhere, still owns the intellectual
> property rights - assuming the motto was registered by MG at the time.  At
> the very least the MGCC may have a claim as it is still in use by them.  As
> far as full stops (periods) go it could be argued that it was just a defect
> in the printing.  My mother was a legal secretary for many years and told me
> it is for that reason that legal documents don't usually have punctuation
> marks but split sentences up into paragraphs.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Probably nobody.  Safety fast was the motto of a company that no longer
> > exists.
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Tue Nov  6 10:49:19 2007
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 12:49:19 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
Message-ID: <ced.1ef57404.3462031f@aol.com>

I still remember the heavy handed tactics that  BMW used when they took over 
the MINI trademark. They were really hard core,  threatening small business 
owners who, for instance, used a name like "Sam's  Mini Repair" or "The House of 
Mini's" etc. Supposedly even business's that  weren't automobile related like 
"Joe's Mini-burger's"  felt the wrath of  "the blue propeller" (The BMW logo) 
and were forced to change it or be  sued..
They say BMW's Lawyers had themselves a real field day threatening  little 
shops with huge Gazillion dollar lawsuits.. BMW itself decided to  differentiate 
it's name by using all caps on their official logo "MINI" as  opposed to the 
earlier Morris Mini's or Austin Mini's or the  Mini-Cooper's....That still 
remains to this day.
Out here on the Left Coast  people were really outraged by the Teutonic 
terrorism of the BMW's lawyers.  Eventually it subsided but there was much bad 
blood for years...With some Mini  owners saying they'd never buy a new MINI!
As for some true blue MG followers  take the "GoF's" or "Gathering of the 
Faithful" for instance, some of those guys  are really hard core about anything 
related to the Sacred Octagon and all things  Abingdon ....   
Albert Escalante~CCBCC-West Coast   




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com  Tue Nov  6 15:23:14 2007
From: Ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg)
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 17:23:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Turkey Bowl
Message-ID: <S360642AbXKFWXM/20071106222313Z+40610@swip002.ftl.affinity.com>

All,

My apologies if you are receiving this more than once, or if you've 
already registered ... I just wanted to remind everyone on this list 
that you're invited to the 11th Annual Turkey Bowl at Summit Point 
(main course) on Thanksgiving weekend (Nov 23-25) -- and the 
earlybird discount deadline for Turkey Bowl entries is this Saturday, 
November 10th.

Also, great news: the track has just been completely repaved!  No 
more concrete patches, bumps or lumps.  It's smooth as the proverbial 
baby's behind.

If you enter & pay by Saturday it's only $250 for all three 
days!  The entry form is attached, and also available on the VRG web site here:

<http://www.vrgonline.org/EVENTS/TURK/07TURKApp.pdf>http://www.vrgonline.org/EVENTS/TURK/07TURKApp.pdf

or go to <http://www.vrgonline.org/>www.vrgonline.org click on 
Events, then Turkey Bowl, and you'll find it there.  You'll also find 
lots of useful information in the FAQ on the web site.

If you've already sent your entry, tell your friends!  We can always 
use a few more entries and we can accomodate nearly any car, vintage 
or modern, in either the VRG race groups or our partner's race groups.

Hope to see you there!

Mark Palmer
VRG Event Chairman

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov  7 05:27:30 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 06:27:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] BMC Sprite wheels wanted
Message-ID: <003401c82139$92f5e4a0$b8e1ade0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I'm looking for a set of BMC wheels for the restoration of the Elliott
Forbes Robinson Bugeye. The car is pictured here. 

 http://www.caranddriver.com/features/11372/sport-renaissance-man.html

 

I realize these wheels are scarce. Any leads on finding a set of these is
appreciated.

 

WST

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov  7 05:49:48 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 06:49:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 remote participants
Message-ID: <004601c8213c$b0202470$10606d50$@com>

Good morning,

 

So far 139 folks have added <Floundervision> to their Yahoo messenger
friends list. how cool is that?

 

You can watch the webcam broadcast from the comfort of your home or office
while 20 or so of us slave away on 4 or 5 SOS projects. If you want to chime
in with remarks or questions of those of us working, you'll need a
microphone. We'll hear you, and be able to reply. I encourage you to try out
your audio connections well in advance of the event. We will have limited
time to help you with tech support the day of the event. We will NOT be able
to view your cameras. so, if you want to view SOS '07 naked from the waist
down. that's your business. (Not that there's anything wrong with that.)

 

The best set up is a headphone/microphone deal. available for under $15 at
Best Buy, etc.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov  7 06:41:59 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 07:41:59 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] BMC Sprite wheels wanted
In-Reply-To: <002d01c82141$deac8c20$c7a1bf46@personal>
References: <003401c82139$92f5e4a0$b8e1ade0$@com>
	<002d01c82141$deac8c20$c7a1bf46@personal>
Message-ID: <009201c82143$fa9e1a50$efda4ef0$@com>

To clarify... these are not a stock wheel, but an alloy wheel used by the
Works and the BMC competition department on their factory race cars. I'm
sure they were also available to the public, but in limited supply.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Laird [mailto:jlaird237 at cox.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 7:27 AM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson; spridgets at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net;
healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] BMC Sprite wheels wanted

I see Bugeye wheels on eBay quite frequently, in fact that is where mine 
came from.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
To: <spridgets at autox.team.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 6:27 AM
Subject: [Spridgets] BMC Sprite wheels wanted


> Hey y'all,
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a set of BMC wheels for the restoration of the Elliott
> Forbes Robinson Bugeye. The car is pictured here.
>
> http://www.caranddriver.com/features/11372/sport-renaissance-man.html
>
>
>
> I realize these wheels are scarce. Any leads on finding a set of these is
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> WST

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Nov  7 21:36:13 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2007 22:36:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Black and White are on the road
Message-ID: <20071108043839.659DC187A11@autox.team.net>

For anyone with 20 minutes to spare, there are a couple of new You 
Tube videos on completion of the MGA Black an White project in Ecuador.
<http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&exiturl=http://youtube.com/watch%3Fv=tDOzhas_y3Q>http://youtube.com/watch?v=tDOzhas_y3Q 

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Ny88QHG-PuI

The earlier videos are here:
<http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&exiturl=http://www.myspace.com/mgadrive>http://www.myspace.com/mgadrive
http://youtube.com/watch?v=oiBc4DrbLfs
<http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&exiturl=http://youtube.com/watch%3Fv=5Be2BVtt4yY>http://youtube.com/watch?v=5Be2BVtt4yY 


Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From Weberstevej at aol.com  Thu Nov  8 01:05:13 2007
From: Weberstevej at aol.com (Weberstevej at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 03:05:13 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Transmission Tailshaft Oil Seal
Message-ID: <d4b.16fc6e91.34641d39@aol.com>

I am installing a new oil seal into the tailshaft housing of my  MGA, but I'm 
not certain which way the seal should be installed. The seal  has felt on one 
side and rubber on the other. I am assuming that the felt  goes to the 
outboard end of the tailshaft, i.e. the rear of the car. Is  this the correct 
orientation?
 
Thanks,
Steve



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov  8 05:33:58 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 12:33:58 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
References: <d18.16aa10d5.3461d8e1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01b501c82204$3a2c3b50$0200a8c0@Three>

The company and its production facilities do indeed have a direct 
connection.  Whether future products will have any *spiritual* link with 
what came before is another matter.  The refrain "But it's not a proper MG" 
was been uttered with the Z cars, MGF, RV 8, MGB, MGA etc. by the owners of 
each preceding generation, right back to when Abingdon lost control of 
design and content in the 1930s and the drawing office was moved to Cowley 
and they had to start using bits out of the corporate parts-bin.  I have a 
ZS 180 as well as an MGB roadster and V8 bodyshell apart it is the least 
'badge-engineered' MG that has ever been produced, and was born under the 
same restrictions that eventually applied to the MGB with a pitiful budget 
but in the hands of a small bunch of enthusiasts who produced something far 
better than anyone expected, and very much in the sporting traditions of MG.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> To think that the present Chinese owned MG has any direct connection with
> the company we revere is to delude yourself. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov  8 05:47:57 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 12:47:57 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Trademark infringement?
References: <ced.1ef57404.3462031f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <02c101c82206$53fbacd0$0200a8c0@Three>

It was the same with the MG logo.  Parts houses and the like had to pay a 
substantial fee, and get all their copy and signs authorised before they 
could continue to use them.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I still remember the heavy handed tactics that  BMW used when they took 
>over
> the MINI trademark. They were really hard core,  threatening small 
> business
> owners who, for instance, used a name like "Sam's  Mini Repair" or "The 
> House of
> Mini's" etc. 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  8 06:42:02 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 05:42:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Black and White are on the road
In-Reply-To: <20071108043839.659DC187A11@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <826139.61500.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote: For anyone with 20 minutes to spare, there are a couple of new You 
Tube videos on completion of the MGA Black an White project in Ecuador.
--------------------
Wow, those cars were in tough shape...... Nice work, and the videos were very entertaining...




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  8 07:32:44 2007
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 06:32:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Black and White are on the road
In-Reply-To: <20071108043839.659DC187A11@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <285180.81357.qm@web51303.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Barney,
     Both videos were excellent..Those guys really did
a couple of MG-A cars.
Howard
1976MG-B roadster
1974 MG-B GT

--- Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:

> For anyone with 20 minutes to spare, there are a
> couple of new You 
> Tube videos on completion of the MGA Black an White
> project in Ecuador.
>
<http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&exiturl=http://youtube.com/watch%3Fv=tDOzhas_y3Q>http://youtube.com/watch?v=tDOzhas_y3Q
> 
> 
> http://youtube.com/watch?v=Ny88QHG-PuI
> 
> The earlier videos are here:
>
<http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&exiturl=http://www.myspace.com/mgadrive>http://www.myspace.com/mgadrive
> http://youtube.com/watch?v=oiBc4DrbLfs
>
<http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&exiturl=http://youtube.com/watch%3Fv=5Be2BVtt4yY>http://youtube.com/watch?v=5Be2BVtt4yY
> 
> 
> 
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com
> _______________________________________________
> zymmer4 at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 


The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Nov  8 11:43:33 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2007 13:43:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC _ EUDORA
Message-ID: <E1IqCQE-0007ZB-Kr@gamma.look.ca>

I occasionally send car stuff to a long list of people but I find 
Eudora does not co-operate.   If an address is bad Eudora does not 
send the message to any on the list.  It just reports that one 
address is bad.  So I delete it and send again.  If another address 
is bad it again reports a bad address, and again, and again, one at a 
time !!   Is there no way I can get it to send out to all the good 
addresses and then report all the bad ones in one shot?????

Thank you in advance for any useful replies
Apologies to those who consider this an affront to the MG altar.

Regards

Barrie Robinson
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm            TRY 
www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Thu Nov  8 13:46:50 2007
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 15:46:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Welded rear axle?  Need advice
Message-ID: <C6892B9A-82B8-4BC4-A19E-2CB86098D78A@trebelhorn.com>

No MG content, so apologies in advance.

I'm part of a team (loosely speaking) building a car for an event  
called the GRM $2008 Challenge.  GRM is a magazine, $2008 is the budget.

The challenge itself is in three parts: concours, autocross, and drag  
race.  Looks like a fun event, so we're giving it a try.

Partly for oddball-value, partly because we found one cheap, we're  
building a 1978 Toyota Corona.  Front engine/rear drive, 4-door,  
double wishbone front, rear axle on leaf springs.  Hoping for a final  
weight around #2300.  We're using a turbocharged volvo 4-banger --  
because the guy who's the real motivating force behind the team has  
experience building them up.  Shooting for 225-250hp.  15x7 wheels, r- 
compund tires.

I'm the only one on the team who's ever autocrossed (or driven at a  
track day), so I'm pretty much in charge of trying to get it to  
handle.  The fly in the ointment is that, because we're doing a dirt- 
cheap drag racer, we're welding the axle solid.  Never having driven  
such a beast, I'm not sure how to go about setting the car up for it,  
or what to expect first time out.  It might move under its own power  
this fall, but I doubt it -- we're aiming to test and tune at an  
autox event in late March.

What to expect, and how to make it work?  Assuming the car starts out  
understeering, I'm guessing that the axle will make it worse...put a  
big sway bar on the back to balance it, or just drive like a hooligan  
and try to steer with the gas?  I'd rather not do that too much, as  
it will eat up the tire budget!

So: what advice can you give?  Other than, you know, suggesting more  
productive things to do with my time ;-)

Thanks
Matt

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Nov  8 15:19:01 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 15:19:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC _ EUDORA
In-Reply-To: <E1IqCQE-0007ZB-Kr@gamma.look.ca>
References: <E1IqCQE-0007ZB-Kr@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12D16@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I don't use Eudora anymore because I had to convert to the M$ Exchange
world and Outlook. But I do recall this problem when I used to use it.
However, Eudora itself is not smart enough to know if an address is bad
in terms of bad accounts (closed, limit exceeded, etc). It tends to die
on stuff that is invalid in terms of format so what you want to do is
make sure your list is strictly email addresses in the format of
somebody at domain.com - perhaps listing them in Notepad and then
transferring them over by cut and paste. Eudora will tend to die on
addresses that are just a person's name or if the domain part
@domain.net is not in proper form. At that point it just sends them over
to your smtp mail server which does the actual part of delivering to the
individual addresses.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Barrie Robinson
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 11:44 AM
To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] OFF TOPIC _ EUDORA

I occasionally send car stuff to a long list of people but I find
Eudora does not co-operate.   If an address is bad Eudora does not
send the message to any on the list.  It just reports that one
address is bad.  So I delete it and send again.  If another address
is bad it again reports a bad address, and again, and again, one at a
time !!   Is there no way I can get it to send out to all the good
addresses and then report all the bad ones in one shot?????

Thank you in advance for any useful replies
Apologies to those who consider this an affront to the MG altar.

Regards

Barrie Robinson
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm            TRY
www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Nov  8 15:36:50 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 14:36:50 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Welded rear axle?  Need advice
In-Reply-To: <C6892B9A-82B8-4BC4-A19E-2CB86098D78A@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0AFC4@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Matt:

I can't think of too many things that would be more fun to do.

I am not an expert, so I'm open to over ride. From the little experience
I've had with welded rear axles, they don't seem to be the best setup
for Auto X. You will have enough power to light up the tires, so it is
an option, but spinning the tires to get the car to go round tight auto
x turns then trying to get bite out of the turn is a tricky technique.
Any chance of swapping in a cheap (used) limited slip rear end from
something?
Welded rears are most effective when you have a little bit more time to
get the back end wrung out in the correct direction. I learnt this when
the pro rally car I was co-driving drove head on into a fence post
because the driver hadn't had a chance to get the back end of the car
around in time.

I'd also suggest checking out the back issues of GRM to see what luck
others have had on the challenge with welded rears. The combination of
drag race and autox makes it important to get a balance.

Kelvin. FWIW


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Matt Trebelhorn
> Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 12:47 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Welded rear axle? Need advice
>
> No MG content, so apologies in advance.
>
> I'm part of a team (loosely speaking) building a car for an
> event called the GRM $2008 Challenge.  GRM is a magazine,
> $2008 is the budget.
>
> The challenge itself is in three parts: concours, autocross,
> and drag race.  Looks like a fun event, so we're giving it a try.
>
> Partly for oddball-value, partly because we found one cheap,
> we're building a 1978 Toyota Corona.  Front engine/rear
> drive, 4-door, double wishbone front, rear axle on leaf
> springs.  Hoping for a final weight around #2300.  We're
> using a turbocharged volvo 4-banger -- because the guy who's
> the real motivating force behind the team has experience
> building them up.  Shooting for 225-250hp.  15x7 wheels, r-
> compund tires.
>
> I'm the only one on the team who's ever autocrossed (or
> driven at a track day), so I'm pretty much in charge of
> trying to get it to handle.  The fly in the ointment is that,
> because we're doing a dirt- cheap drag racer, we're welding
> the axle solid.  Never having driven such a beast, I'm not
> sure how to go about setting the car up for it, or what to
> expect first time out.  It might move under its own power
> this fall, but I doubt it -- we're aiming to test and tune at
> an autox event in late March.
>
> What to expect, and how to make it work?  Assuming the car
> starts out understeering, I'm guessing that the axle will
> make it worse...put a big sway bar on the back to balance it,
> or just drive like a hooligan and try to steer with the gas?
> I'd rather not do that too much, as it will eat up the tire budget!
>
> So: what advice can you give?  Other than, you know,
> suggesting more productive things to do with my time ;-)
>
> Thanks
> Matt

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  8 18:30:00 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 17:30:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Roxster, you out there??
Message-ID: <269514.64465.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Can you contact me off-list? d_dibiase at yahoo.com

Thx, Dan D

From montejane at gmail.com  Fri Nov  9 08:38:44 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:38:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] steering damper
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0711090738j116cb6beq25692bc9d5face14@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all.
After 7 months traveling in our RV,  we're back home in Missouri. The MG is
just dying to get back on the road, but I have one issue that needs resolved
(besides a dead battery).
The rack oil has leaked out and I can't tell  if it's leaking at the bottom
damper cover or from the steering boot right next to the damper. I'll wipe
it all off and put more oil in and drive it then find the culprit. If it is
the bottom damper cover gasket that is leaking, can anyone tell me the
approximate thickness that it's suppposed to be so I can make one?
By the way, we sold our 67B in February. We decided that two B's sitting in
the garage most of the year was pretty stupid, and call me crazy, but I like
driving a rubber bumper more than a chrome one. I guess I like to drive the
whole car, not just the bumper.
Monte

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Nov  9 09:05:22 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 16:05:22 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] steering damper
References: <cab4b95c0711090738j116cb6beq25692bc9d5face14@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004b01c822ea$bfc0e2c0$0200a8c0@Three>

Could be the pinion shaft oil seal, pinion end cover, rack damper or gaiter. 
Or indeed a cracked casting in that area.  The pinion end cover has a gasket 
and this *isn't* critical for thickness.  The damper cover uses shims to set 
the damper 'weight' and so adding a gasket, especially a compressible one, 
will upset this and should not be used.  Both covers can be warped by 
overtightening and so should be checked for flatness against a straight-edge 
and flatted if required.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The rack oil has leaked out and I can't tell  if it's leaking at the 
> bottom
> damper cover or from the steering boot right next to the damper. I'll wipe
> it all off and put more oil in and drive it then find the culprit. If it 
> is
> the bottom damper cover gasket that is leaking, can anyone tell me the
> approximate thickness that it's suppposed to be so I can make one?

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Nov  9 09:46:50 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 11:46:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] steering damper
In-Reply-To: <004b01c822ea$bfc0e2c0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <cab4b95c0711090738j116cb6beq25692bc9d5face14@mail.gmail.com>
	<004b01c822ea$bfc0e2c0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <20071109164624.142741879CC@autox.team.net>

Paul,

I have squirted some 90 oil via the gaiter into the steering rack of 
my '70 MGB GT V8 but I have been told that one can more easily put 
oil in through the damper cover.   Is it critical to get the oil 
quantity just right?  I understand that the rack takes 1/3 of a pint.



At 11:05 AM 09/11/2007, Paul Hunt wrote:
>Could be the pinion shaft oil seal, pinion end cover, rack damper or gaiter.
>Or indeed a cracked casting in that area.  The pinion end cover has a gasket
>and this *isn't* critical for thickness.  The damper cover uses shims to set
>the damper 'weight' and so adding a gasket, especially a compressible one,
>will upset this and should not be used.  Both covers can be warped by
>overtightening and so should be checked for flatness against a straight-edge
>and flatted if required.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
> > The rack oil has leaked out and I can't tell  if it's leaking at the
> > bottom
> > damper cover or from the steering boot right next to the damper. I'll wipe
> > it all off and put more oil in and drive it then find the culprit. If it
> > is
> > the bottom damper cover gasket that is leaking, can anyone tell me the
> > approximate thickness that it's suppposed to be so I can make one?
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Nov 10 02:48:08 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:48:08 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] steering damper
References: <cab4b95c0711090738j116cb6beq25692bc9d5face14@mail.gmail.com>
	<004b01c822ea$bfc0e2c0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<ECOWS09MgYEcRRfQMVY00413a1d@smtp-in1.blueyonder.co.uk>
Message-ID: <00b101c8237f$e970ed50$0200a8c0@Three>

I've only ever done it via the gaiter as it looks easier, maybe LHD cars are
different.  The quantity isn't *that* critical, although too much could
burst the gaiter if you swap locks quickly.  1/3rd Imperial pint, .4 US 
pint, .2 Litre.

One point is that the Workshop Manual does actually show a 'gasket' for the 
damper cover as well as shims.  However I don't recall ever finding anything 
other than thin metal shims in there.  It is a fact that if you put a 
conventional compressible gasket in there you will have to reset the shims, 
and then if the gasket compresses over time it will tighten the steering up.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I have squirted some 90 oil via the gaiter into the steering rack of my
> '70 MGB GT V8 but I have been told that one can more easily put oil in
> through the damper cover.   Is it critical to get the oil quantity just
> right?  I understand that the rack takes 1/3 of a pint.

From mgs at bonacker.us  Sun Nov 11 05:49:18 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 06:49:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Converting '77B to dual HIF's
Message-ID: <002201c82461$48095d20$0d9a8662@abyssinian>

The water line that returns from the choke on the original ZS goes to the
engine block behind the distributor. I think this is usually where the water
drain valve is located, but it is presently a brass elbow milled from a
block. There doesn't seem to be anyplace on the head for a coolant
connection other than where the thermostat is so I don't seem to need a
blanking plate.

Would there be any reason not to replace this fitting with an actual drain
valve?


Scott Bonacker

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Nov 11 07:22:21 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 08:22:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 anybody got a wrench?
Message-ID: <004701c8246e$4822ecb0$d868c610$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Preparation continues for SOS '07 Idgets withSpridgets. I've got 4 toolboxes
populated so no one need wait on a tool to get something done. There are
multiple air connections throughout the shop, and we have lots of impacts
and air ratchets. If anyone has an extra Horrible Freight aluminum race jack
that you've got room  to bring, please toss it in the trunk. Also, maybe an
extra set of jackstands.

 

Kris Larsen is bringing his plasma cutter. With that, the torch, and a
couple of Sawzalls, we should be able to liberate the good bits from some
bad cars.

 

I'd recommend you bring some work gloves, and eye protection if you have it.
Also, remember to bring a change of clothes for Fri. night's dinner at a
place that serves local Wisco faire.

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Nov 11 07:50:41 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 08:50:41 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Where and when?
Message-ID: <005201c82472$3d54d2e0$b7fe78a0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

The shop number is (920) 966-0252.

 

Here's a map to the Dream Farm, home of Team Thicko International
Headquarters (the homo club).

 

(or as John Sprinzel dubbed it, the Dream Farm and the Nightmare Barn)

 

For those of you with GPS, Hass & Lincoln Rd., Van Dyne, WI. We're on the NW
corner. We're the place with a large Thicko trailer, 6 cancerous Spridgets
out front, and a go kart track.

 

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q
<http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Hass+%2
6+Lincoln+Rd.,+Van+Dyne,+WI&sll=43.877727,-88.564053&sspn=0.051598,0.159645&
ie=UTF8&ll=43.881934,-88.564138&spn=0.025797,0.079823&z=14&iwloc=addr&om=1>
&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Hass+%26+Lincoln+Rd.,+Van+Dyne,+WI&sll=
43.877727,-88.564053&sspn=0.051598,0.159645&ie=UTF8&ll=43.881934,-88.564138&
spn=0.025797,0.079823&z=14&iwloc=addr&om=1

 

We'll get started around 9 AM Friday, Nov. 23rd. The Floundervision Yahoo
broadcast will start around 10 AM. We'll work until about 4 PM, and head off
to dinner at 5:30 PM.

 

Saturday, the 24th, we'll get started about the same time. Brunch will be
served both days, and there will be coffee, beer, and soda available all
day.

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Nov 11 08:08:20 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 09:08:20 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 Where and when?
In-Reply-To: <111120071501.27529.473719480006023200006B892205884484020A04040ED29D0A030E9D05@comcast.net>
References: <111120071501.27529.473719480006023200006B892205884484020A04040ED29D0A030E9D05@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006b01c82474$b4a81620$1df84260$@com>

Hello Allen,

 

Yes, I have the camera on periodically every day. Most likely today it will
be on after 11AM CST. I'm moving the camera around. The day of the SOS, it
will be on a rolling cart so we can get views of all the projects.

 

If you're online, you'll get an invitation to a conference. Once in the
conference, everyone can hear the audio while viewing the video, and if you
have a mic, can also speak to the live participants and remote conference
viewers.

 

WST

 

 

 

From: kramer.allen at comcast.net [mailto:kramer.allen at comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 9:01 AM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson; spridgets at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07 Where and when?

 

Is Floundervision Yahoo broadcast up and running for a try out prior to the
event?

Thanks, Allen

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Nov 11 15:34:17 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 16:34:17 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGC GT interiors
Message-ID: <00ae01c824b3$01469d10$03d3d730$@com>

Hey all,

 

Of the usual suspects (and the unusual), any suggestions for a complete
interior kit for an MGC GT?

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 11 16:25:10 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 15:25:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGC GT interiors
In-Reply-To: <00ae01c824b3$01469d10$03d3d730$@com>
Message-ID: <627595.49584.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

"Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com> wrote:    Hey all,



Of the usual suspects (and the unusual), any suggestions for a complete
interior kit for an MGC GT?


Moss does produce a very nice interior set. TRF has had some good products in the past and Prestige Auto Trim in the UK can make some great sets in many custom colors.
  Carl


Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Nov 11 18:21:26 2007
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 20:21:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again
References: <627595.49584.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006801c824ca$5935c930$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

All,

The continuing saga of the '77 MGB with the Weber downdraft:

Finally bit the bullet and purchased a new Weber downdraft on Ebay. Fitted 
it today. Running problem instantly cured. I have no idea what I missed when 
I dismantled and cleaned the old carb.

The replacement has a manual choke. Gone is the electric choke. No great 
loss, but has anyone on the list fit a cable to a Weber carb? What was used 
and how was it mounted?

Why anyone would buy a Weber for his street MG is beyond me. Fix the ZS or 
better still, fit twin SU's. Weber's are a PITA. Mounting one on your MG 
just to say "My car has a Weber(s)" is nuts. Simple and Workable beats 
Complex and Wonderful every time IMHO.

Thanks again to all who offered help and advice.

Ed Woods 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Nov 11 18:33:00 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2007 19:33:00 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again
In-Reply-To: <006801c824ca$5935c930$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <627595.49584.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<006801c824ca$5935c930$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <7A92ED82-774F-41BF-AF55-254A1E4C7834@gmail.com>

I'd guess that you had an air leak somewhere. Throttle shafts, perhaps.

On my '77, I mounted the manual choke in place of the dimmer. And
then mounted the dimmer in the unused rocker switch hole.



On Nov 11, 2007, at 7:21 PM, Ed Woods wrote:

> All,
>
> The continuing saga of the '77 MGB with the Weber downdraft:
>
> Finally bit the bullet and purchased a new Weber downdraft on Ebay.  
> Fitted
> it today. Running problem instantly cured. I have no idea what I  
> missed when
> I dismantled and cleaned the old carb.
>
> The replacement has a manual choke. Gone is the electric choke. No  
> great
> loss, but has anyone on the list fit a cable to a Weber carb? What  
> was used
> and how was it mounted?
>
> Why anyone would buy a Weber for his street MG is beyond me. Fix the  
> ZS or
> better still, fit twin SU's. Weber's are a PITA. Mounting one on  
> your MG
> just to say "My car has a Weber(s)" is nuts. Simple and Workable beats
> Complex and Wonderful every time IMHO.
>
> Thanks again to all who offered help and advice.
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 12 06:09:49 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 05:09:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again
In-Reply-To: <006801c824ca$5935c930$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <469790.13284.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Exactly the same thing happened with my Lotus Europa. 
I've been rebuilding carbs for years but still
couldn't make that old DGV perform.  I suspect damage
or blockage that I just couldn't get to - even with a
long soak in carb cleaner!

rick

--- Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:

> All,
> 
> The continuing saga of the '77 MGB with the Weber
> downdraft:
> 
> Finally bit the bullet and purchased a new Weber
> downdraft on Ebay. Fitted 
> it today. Running problem instantly cured. I have no
> idea what I missed when 
> I dismantled and cleaned the old carb.
> 
> The replacement has a manual choke. Gone is the
> electric choke. No great 
> loss, but has anyone on the list fit a cable to a
> Weber carb? What was used 
> and how was it mounted?
> 
> Why anyone would buy a Weber for his street MG is
> beyond me. Fix the ZS or 
> better still, fit twin SU's. Weber's are a PITA.
> Mounting one on your MG 
> just to say "My car has a Weber(s)" is nuts. Simple
> and Workable beats 
> Complex and Wonderful every time IMHO.
> 
> Thanks again to all who offered help and advice.
> 
> Ed Woods 
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Mon Nov 12 08:46:01 2007
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 07:46:01 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGC GT interiors
In-Reply-To: <00ae01c824b3$01469d10$03d3d730$@com>
References: <00ae01c824b3$01469d10$03d3d730$@com>
Message-ID: <47387539.7040405@cox.net>

Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:

>Of the usual suspects (and the unusual), any suggestions for a complete
>interior kit for an MGC GT?
>  
>
We bought the interior kit for our '69 BGT from Brittek(sp?) and it's 
very good quality.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Nov 12 10:32:47 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 09:32:47 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGC GT interiors
In-Reply-To: <00ae01c824b3$01469d10$03d3d730$@com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B2AF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Obviously I'm biased, so take any thing I say with a grain of salt.

When doing the comparison, keep in mind that the kits Moss sell for the
68-69 models are made in house, here in California. The interior panels
use waterproof plywood, not masonite so areas prone to damp such as the
door panels will stay unwarped.

The leather used in the seat kits is Italian, stamped with our own dies
to give the correct vintage look, is slightly thicker than original and
is vat dyed (color goes all the way throug), so any nicks and cuts won't
show.

Personally I think they are the best product out there, but I am very
biased.


Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson
> Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 2:34 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGC GT interiors
>
> Hey all,
>
>
>
> Of the usual suspects (and the unusual), any suggestions for
> a complete interior kit for an MGC GT?
>
>
>
>
>
> Wm. Severin Thompson

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Nov 12 18:17:42 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 19:17:42 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGC overdrive
Message-ID: <01d401c82592$fee8c620$fcba5260$@com>

Sorry, but I'll be peppering the list with MGC questions over the next few
weeks in advance of restoring my MGC-GT. 

 

I know Healeys big & small, but not much about MGCs.

 

Were all 4spd MGC's fitted with overdrive?

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Nov 12 18:22:06 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:22:06 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGC overdrive
In-Reply-To: <01d401c82592$fee8c620$fcba5260$@com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B449@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Don't be sorry. There are a number of MGC owners on the list, no doubt
happy to hear from you.

Nope. The manual transmission MGC came with and without OD. Many of the
cars did have O.D. probably a higher percentage than in the regular MGB.



Kelvin Dodd

1969 MGC GT M.O.D.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 5:18 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGC overdrive
>
> Sorry, but I'll be peppering the list with MGC questions over
> the next few weeks in advance of restoring my MGC-GT.
>
>
>
> I know Healeys big & small, but not much about MGCs.
>
>
>
> Were all 4spd MGC's fitted with overdrive?
>
>
>
>
>
> Wm. Severin Thompson

From cattias at ucsc.edu  Mon Nov 12 20:27:16 2007
From: cattias at ucsc.edu (Chris Attias)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 19:27:16 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Mk I Gas Tank Question
Message-ID: <p06240800c35ec0dec5e3@[192.168.2.3]>

I just removed the gas tank on my '64 B.  The sender was seeping, and 
I suspect it might have some other rust damage.  I was thinking of 
replacing it with a repro tank (from angelheartpancho @ eBay, I 
think) I bought a couple of years ago from a fellow club member.  It 
doesn't appear to be badly made, is substantially heavier than the 
OEM tank and looks to be properly baffled.  The only doubt I have is 
about the fuel pickup.

Looking into the OEM tank, the pickup looks to have a fairly 
sophisticated strainer supported by a sheet metal bracket.  On the 
repro, the pickup is a copper tube with a beveled end down, close to 
the bottom of the tank, and that's it.

Am I looking for trouble if I install my repro tank (assuming I don't 
get close to running it dry?)  Do the Moss reproduction tanks 
duplicate the OEM fuel pickup?  Any advice would be appreciated.

-- 
Chris Attias
Felton, CA
'64 MGB

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Mon Nov 12 22:15:11 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 21:15:11 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Mk I Gas Tank Question
References: <p06240800c35ec0dec5e3@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <000c01c825b4$2d93c8a0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Chris,  I don't know about the interior of the Moss tank.   I bought a ebay 
tank from Angelheartpancho for my Healey.  It's well made and the only 
complaint I had was that he was using the wrong fitting for the fuel line 
but that shouldn't be a problem for the MGB tank.  If you do use the new 
tank be sure you clean it well before installing it because my new tank had 
a lot of black stuff in it (I think it was black paint?) which kept fouling 
the fuel filter.  I assume you have a fuel filter on your MG.  I would not 
worry about the shape of the pickup.  As long as you have a good filter it 
should catch any junk.  The strainer in the OEM tank is just a primitive 
filter which you don't need unless you are getting a lot of dirt or sand and 
rocks in your tank.

Ron Fine

> Am I looking for trouble if I install my repro tank (assuming I don't
> get close to running it dry?)  Do the Moss reproduction tanks
> duplicate the OEM fuel pickup?  Any advice would be appreciated.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 13 06:00:37 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 05:00:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Mk I Gas Tank Question
In-Reply-To: <000c01c825b4$2d93c8a0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <50143.95597.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Ron,
   I laughed when I read your post.  A number of years
ago I had a '63 e-type that I had restored from the
ground up.  One day I noticed a rattle in the fuel
tank when I moved the car.  I discovered that the
little boy next door thought that the fuel filler was
a great place to 'hide' all his special rocks.  There
must have been five pounds of them in there, added
over the term of a summer!  The idea was so funny and
honest that I couldn't get mad at him but I did buy a
locking cap and told him that it would keep his best
rocks safe!

rick
'70 Split-bumper MGB - with locking fuel cap

> ...unless you are getting a lot of dirt or sand and 
> rocks in your tank.
> 
> Ron Fine

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Tue Nov 13 08:51:08 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 07:51:08 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
Message-ID: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>

When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB that
has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the engine
and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored outside
during this period.

Ron
61 BN7
66 MGB

From jello at ida.net  Tue Nov 13 08:55:07 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 08:55:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <1883.209.180.80.45.1194969307.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

Dump it.

There are a lot of factors that contribute to how long it's good - but a
year is probably too long reguardless of those factors.  If there's not
much of it, you might be able to add enough new gas that it's not an
issue, but safest is dump it and blow out the lines backwards with
compressed air.  Then put a fuel filter in ahead of the pump, AND ahead of
the carbs (after the pump).

Been there done that - lost the cost fo a lawn mower by using 1 1/2 year
old gas in it from one of my car projects - old gas ---> sticky valve.

Phil Bates

> When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB
> that
> has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the
> engine
> and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
> should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored
> outside
> during this period.
>
> Ron
> 61 BN7
> 66 MGB

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Tue Nov 13 09:39:58 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 09:39:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12D27@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I don't think I would ever dump the gas and a year is in most cases not
too old in itself. But there are a few factors to consider -
condensation in the gas which would add water (humid or moist climates).
Or high evaporation loss which would eventually would cause
precipitation in the fuel system (the high evaporation loss would also
cause loss of some of the more volatile petrol components which could
cause slow starting problems).

For the condensation problem, the addition of methanol (aka gasoline
anti-freeze) would allow removal of the water in the burning cycle. If
the gas has had a high evaporation loss, it can still be blended with
new gas to make it usable. If it is really old and you do see deposits
in the float bowls, the gas should be removed, the fuel system cleaned,
and fresh gas used. This may be more in terms of a few years though
depending on your environmental conditions. Otherwise, I would just add
about 5 gals of fresh petrol to the present tank and maybe pump out a
pint or so from the lines.

I am not sure in this day of environmental regulations where you would
dump old gas legally and inexpensively, at least in the USA. And old gas
dumped legally (recycled) is just going to get burned somewhere anyway.
I have burned some really old gas before - but the older the fuel, the
less I use when blending it with new fuel. Most of the old fuel I have
burned has been in my 74 Toyota Landcruiser - it loves gas and burns
just about anything. But usually it is mixed somewhere between 50:50 to
1:10 with new fuel for the burn.

The last few years, if I anticipate a vehicle being out of service for
more than a year, I have been adding Sta-bil to the fuel. It is supposed
to preserve the gas. But even then, I suppose it has its limits. Gas
with extreme evaporation loss would still be a problem - i.e a few
years, hot desert climate. If I was fortunate to live in such a warmer
climate, I would probably empty out the gas when the car was idled and
use it in another vehicle.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Ron Fine
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 8:51 AM
To: MG List; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas

When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB
that
has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the
engine
and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored
outside
during this period.

Ron
61 BN7
66 MGB

From bmcspares at aol.com  Tue Nov 13 10:02:33 2007
From: bmcspares at aol.com (British Motor Classics, Ltd.)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:02:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <8C9F42E1DF54238-4E8-5782@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com>

Ron, 

I would remove the old gas from the car, put in fresh fuel and start off with best for your overhaul.? If you have a "newer" car with fuel injection I would run that old gas through that vehicle.? We discovered that the new fuels we have here?in Arizona and California is oxygenated and only has a shelf life of 45 days before it starts to break down.? The "newer" car with its fuel injection seems to have less effect on running old fuel vs cars with carbs on them.? The fuel injectioned engine will adjust itself to overcome any running problems associated with old fuel.? Make sure you fill the "new" car with fresh fuel to dilute the old stuff out as much as you can to make sure it has only minimum effect on the overall running and ensure the fuel injectors don't get?gummed up.? Good luck with your rebuild.? Run the engine with the starter and?spark plugs removed to ensure you get oil pressure before starting and?don't forget to run the engine up to 2000 rpms to run the bearings in for about 4-5 minutes then let it idle down.

Jon Nyhus
Phoenix Arizona

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 8:51 am
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas



When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB that
has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the engine
and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored outside
during this period.

Ron
61 BN7
66 MGB
_______________________________________________
bmcspares at aol.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Nov 13 10:04:18 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:04:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
Message-ID: <20071113.120418.2932.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Ron,
    Gas seems to vary so much that it's difficult to say with any
certainty when it should be discarded.  But you can't discard the stuff
anyway, so you have to make the best of it. 
    I would put a pint of alcohol into the tank, then fill near the top
with fresh 93 octane.  Leave space for whatever sloshing and mixing
occurs when driving in hopes that the new and the old will blend.   I
don't think the octane is necessarily important, but the gas companies
claim to have better injection-cleaning chemistry in the more-expensive
products, and that chemistry might be beneficial at freshening the old
fuel.  
    It would be easy to stick an additional plastic fuel filter in line
near the carbs, and that might be worth doing as they have some ability
to separate water.  
   The fuel pump might be stuck. A light tap with plastic screwdriver
handle may be called for if you don't hear it click when you switch on
ignition.
    Having the assistance of a friend to catch a pint or so of fuel at
the carb end of the system could be worthwhile. Sludge that's in the fuel
line between pump and carbs may come out into the can instead of into
filter or carbs. 
    And it would be easy to stick an additional plastic fuel filter in
line near the carbs, which could be worth doing as they have some ability
to separate water from the fuel.  Inspection of the contents of the can
would give you an indication of the amount of water condensed in the old
fuel.  
   This reply is now all out of sequence.  Try doing things this way:
        1) test the pump and discharge into can.
        2) look at the stuff you captured in the can. Pump until you get
what appears to be gas only.
        3) install a plastic filter in the line
        4) use a pint of alcohol and add a few gallons to bring level
near full.
        5) pump up the tires and go driving. 
Bob

On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 07:51:08 -0800 "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
writes:
> When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my 
> MGB that
> has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of 

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Nov 13 10:08:52 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:08:52 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
Message-ID: <c94.1cb2c455.346b3424@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/13/2007 9:03:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
bmcspares at aol.com writes:

I would  remove the old gas from the car, put in fresh fuel and start off 
with best for  your overhaul.? If you have a "newer" car with fuel injection I 
would run that  old gas through that vehicle.? We discovered that the new fuels 
we have  here?in Arizona and California is oxygenated and only has a shelf 
life of 45  days before it starts to break down.? The "newer" car with its fuel 
injection  seems to have less effect on running old fuel vs cars with carbs on 
them.?   
____________________________________
 
I was going through just that dilemma in regard to my old Italian car,  which 
has seen less than 1 tank of activity this year. I pondered putting  
stabiliser in, but I think that simply draining the tank and putting the almost  year 
old gas into one of my vehicles with injection (the wife's minivan comes to  
mind) should do the trick. I can live with the fact that the old car's tank 
will  be empty and subject to condensation  more easily than I can countenance  
the thought of rebuilding a flotilla of Webers.
 
And as for MGs, why the heck are some of the new gas tanks made for them  
without drain plugs???
 
Bill

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 13 10:07:26 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 09:07:26 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Mk I Gas Tank Question
In-Reply-To: <000c01c825b4$2d93c8a0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <C35F19CE.12E9E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I don't know, I think I'd want a strainer in the tank. The fuel filter is
way past the fuel pump, which has a screen that could get clogged by debris.
Better to keep the crud in the tank, and there always seems to be some;
whether it's rust, the tank's inner coating flaking off, contaminated fuel,
or introduced objects (as Rick describes).

As for the "old gas" question, the only way to get rid of it is to burn it
off, one way or another. Dilute it with new gas and use it in your lawnmower
(I suspect Phil's problem was more due to the oil separating out of the mix
than to "old" gas). Or just fill up the tank and go -- half-and-half with
new gas should be fine -- MGs aren't finicky like EFI vehicles.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/12/07 9:15 PM, Ron Fine at RonFineEsq at earthlink.net wrote:

> Chris,  I don't know about the interior of the Moss tank.   I bought a ebay
> tank from Angelheartpancho for my Healey.  It's well made and the only
> complaint I had was that he was using the wrong fitting for the fuel line
> but that shouldn't be a problem for the MGB tank.  If you do use the new
> tank be sure you clean it well before installing it because my new tank had
> a lot of black stuff in it (I think it was black paint?) which kept fouling
> the fuel filter.  I assume you have a fuel filter on your MG.  I would not
> worry about the shape of the pickup.  As long as you have a good filter it
> should catch any junk.  The strainer in the OEM tank is just a primitive
> filter which you don't need unless you are getting a lot of dirt or sand and
> rocks in your tank.
> 
> Ron Fine
> 
>> Am I looking for trouble if I install my repro tank (assuming I don't
>> get close to running it dry?)  Do the Moss reproduction tanks
>> duplicate the OEM fuel pickup?  Any advice would be appreciated.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Tue Nov 13 10:20:21 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 11:20:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <4739DCD5.2030608@gmail.com>

Ron Fine wrote:
> When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB that
> has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the engine
> and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
> should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored outside
> during this period.
I had just filled up my Dodge Shadow when I broke an axle. It will be two years ago in December. The axle would not come out of the final drive, no matter what we tried; it might as well have been welded in there. I paid a friend to swap transmissions between that car and the parts car about a month ago and I have been driving it ever since. That gas is all used up now and the tank has been refilled. It ran fine, with no problems. I'm in Oklahoma.

-The Roxter
--

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Tue Nov 13 10:21:52 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:21:52 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
Message-ID: <bd6.1e859af9.346b3730@aol.com>

The fuel in my MGA stood for about 3 years before I got it back  together.  I 
removed all the old gas and used it in my lawn  equipment.  Worked fine there 
and my newly rebuilt engine got the nice  fresh stuff.
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Nov 13 11:03:30 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:03:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <06b401c8261f$8045d140$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<When is gas too old to use? >>

Ron:

I read all the replies prior to adding my .02<G>!

Jon in AZ is the only one (so far) that has the correct answer, IMHO.

Just because you ARE in CA, dump it.  Remember CA gas is WAY different than
the rest of the country (worse <BG>).

Ed

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 13 10:53:49 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 09:53:49 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <c94.1cb2c455.346b3424@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C35F24AD.12EAB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Hmmm, my thinking was that carburetors, particularly the spectacularly
simple SUs, would be far less likely to have problems with sludge, water, or
jellied gasoline than fuel injectors. After all, all we hear on gasoline
commercials is how their "special ingredients" clean injectors and valves,
leading one to believe that these engines are susceptible to these problems.
I mean, oil companies wouldn't lie to us, would they?

I might also point out that disassembly and cleaning of the MG's fuel system
is probably a lot simpler and less expensive than the same process on a
minivan or a Lexus. For just one example, many Hondas have a
"semi-permanent" fuel filter mounted in an inaccessible location beneath the
rear seat. Engine access on minivans is notoriously constricted. And the
fuel pumps in many modern vehicles are actually submerged in the fuel tank,
making replacement or service inconvenient.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 11/13/07 9:08 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/13/2007 9:03:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> bmcspares at aol.com writes:
> 
> I would  remove the old gas from the car, put in fresh fuel and start off
> with best for  your overhaul.? If you have a "newer" car with fuel injection I
> would run that  old gas through that vehicle.? We discovered that the new
> fuels 
> we have  here?in Arizona and California is oxygenated and only has a shelf
> life of 45  days before it starts to break down.? The "newer" car with its
> fuel 
> injection  seems to have less effect on running old fuel vs cars with carbs on
> them.?   
> ____________________________________
>  
> I was going through just that dilemma in regard to my old Italian car,  which
> has seen less than 1 tank of activity this year. I pondered putting
> stabiliser in, but I think that simply draining the tank and putting the
> almost  year 
> old gas into one of my vehicles with injection (the wife's minivan comes to
> mind) should do the trick. I can live with the fact that the old car's tank
> will  be empty and subject to condensation  more easily than I can countenance
> the thought of rebuilding a flotilla of Webers.
>  
> And as for MGs, why the heck are some of the new gas tanks made for them
> without drain plugs???
>  
> Bill
> _______________________________________________

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Tue Nov 13 12:25:57 2007
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 11:25:57 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F32A2@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

I have heard that the new formulations of gas have a shorter shelf life
then the old formulations.  It's a matter of a few months.  Not sure how
true that is, its just what I've heard.  I am about to start my rebuilt
engine in my 67 B.  Rebuilt with a 286 degree duration cam and 68CC
combustion chambers. Should be about 10:1 compression.  I drained the
gas this last weekend after it had been sitting about 8 months.  It did
have that old gas smell but looked okay.  We poured it into my friends
68B.  I haven't talked to him yet to see how its been running.  But
these new formulations are the color of piss and have a funny smell
anyway.  I bought 5 gallons of race gas, 110 octane leaded.  It was pink
and smelt like I remember gas to smell!!  Took me back to the old days.
When gas was good enough to clean parts in.  If nothing else... Id
dilute the old gas with some new.  I imagine it looses octane with age
also.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Ron Fine
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 7:51 AM
To: MG List; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas

When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB
that
has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the
engine
and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored
outside
during this period.

Ron
61 BN7
66 MGB

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Nov 13 12:30:09 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 14:30:09 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
Message-ID: <caf.21a2036d.346b5541@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/13/2007 11:26:21 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
dennis_cox at appsig.com writes:

Should  be about 10:1 compression.  I drained the
gas this last weekend after  it had been sitting about 8 months.  It did
have that old gas smell  but looked okay.  We poured it into my friends
68B.  I haven't  talked to him yet to see how its been running.  But
these new  formulations are the color of piss and have a funny smell
anyway.  I  bought 5 gallons of race gas, 110 octane leaded. 


  
____________________________________


Dennis, if you didn't already know, you are wasting your money on 110  octane 
with 10:1 compression. It will give you a little LESS power, not more, as  it 
burns more slowly.
 
With your compression, 93 -94 octane is optimal.
 
You could probably advance your timing a couple of degrees with the race  gas 
and get a little more, but it wouldn't be significant.
 
Bill 

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Tue Nov 13 13:03:31 2007
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:03:31 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <caf.21a2036d.346b5541@aol.com>
References: <caf.21a2036d.346b5541@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F32A3@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

I have no intention of feeding it a regular diet of race gas.  I put it
in for the initial start and cam breakin.  I figured a 50/50 mix would
give me about 98.  Out here in Calif 91 is the highest they sell at the
pump.  Once the initial start up and cam bedding is done I'll tune it
for pump gas.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WSpohn4 at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:30 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Old Gas

In a message dated 11/13/2007 11:26:21 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dennis_cox at appsig.com writes:

Should  be about 10:1 compression.  I drained the
gas this last weekend after  it had been sitting about 8 months.  It did
have that old gas smell  but looked okay.  We poured it into my friends
68B.  I haven't  talked to him yet to see how its been running.  But
these new  formulations are the color of piss and have a funny smell
anyway.  I  bought 5 gallons of race gas, 110 octane leaded.



____________________________________


Dennis, if you didn't already know, you are wasting your money on 110
octane
with 10:1 compression. It will give you a little LESS power, not more,
as  it
burns more slowly.

With your compression, 93 -94 octane is optimal.

You could probably advance your timing a couple of degrees with the race
gas
and get a little more, but it wouldn't be significant.

Bill

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Nov 13 13:55:57 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:55:57 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B5AF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

It's times like this when I really miss my old Land Rover. It was the
patient recipient of many gallons of bad gas from "barn find" cars.
Mixed 50/50 with good gas, the old brute would stink the place up, but
never miss a beat.

Now if I have iffy gas the likely candidate is my Rover SD1 as 8
cylinders and 8.0:1 compression mean at least enough will fire to keep
the motor chugging along.

Don't put old gas into a single cylinder motor such as a lawn mower!
Here in California, even the gas from last season can cause problems and
prevent firing in a one lunger.


MMMMMMMM. I love the smell of bad gasoline in the morning.        It
smells like.........restoration in progress


Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Ron Fine
> Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 7:51 AM
> To: MG List; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
>
> When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas
> in my MGB that has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am
> finishing the rebuild of the engine and plan to fire it up
> later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or should it
> be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored
> outside during this period.
>
> Ron
> 61 BN7
> 66 MGB

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Nov 13 14:01:18 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 15:01:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again
In-Reply-To: <006801c824ca$5935c930$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <627595.49584.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<006801c824ca$5935c930$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <473A109E.10809@ktc.com>

  When I bought my '70 MGB many years ago I didn't have the Internet 
resources (read: this list, et al) we enjoy now.  Because I didn't 
realize that the problems with the SUs were because of the worn throttle 
shafts, I bought a new Weber DGV carb and kit.  The car ran like a watch 
after I installed it, although it had a bit less power.  That B was my 
daily driver for over 5 yrs, until I sold it with the Weber still on it. 
  Funny thing is I bought the electric choke version for ease of 
installation.  It always worked fine.

   My present '69 B has the stock SUs, mainly because I knew more when 
it came to refurbing them.  Guess I lived and learned.  ;^)

   Cheers,

    CR




Ed Woods wrote:
> All,
> 
> The continuing saga of the '77 MGB with the Weber downdraft:
> 
> Finally bit the bullet and purchased a new Weber downdraft on Ebay. Fitted 
> it today. Running problem instantly cured. I have no idea what I missed when 
> I dismantled and cleaned the old carb.
> 
> The replacement has a manual choke. Gone is the electric choke. No great 
> loss, but has anyone on the list fit a cable to a Weber carb? What was used 
> and how was it mounted?
> 
> Why anyone would buy a Weber for his street MG is beyond me. Fix the ZS or 
> better still, fit twin SU's. Weber's are a PITA. Mounting one on your MG 
> just to say "My car has a Weber(s)" is nuts. Simple and Workable beats 
> Complex and Wonderful every time IMHO.
> 
> Thanks again to all who offered help and advice.
> 
> Ed Woods 
> _______________________________________________
> ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Nov 13 14:18:44 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 13:18:44 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again
In-Reply-To: <473A109E.10809@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B5C6@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Ed:

The 77-80 MGB should have a blanking plate, filling a rectangular switch
hole at the right hand side of the clock. A neat trick I've seen is to
cut two rectangular plates slightly larger than the hole. Purchase a
standard MGB Tee handle choke cable and drill a hole through the two
plates of the correct size to fit the cable. Sandwich the dash with the
plates using the choke cable to hold them together. Voila, an easy to
use choke location that is about the same place as the early cars.

Hope this helps

Kelvin.




> Ed Woods wrote:
> > All,
> >
> > The continuing saga of the '77 MGB with the Weber downdraft:
> >
> >> >
> > The replacement has a manual choke. Gone is the electric choke. No
> > great loss, but has anyone on the list fit a cable to a Weber carb?
> > What was used and how was it mounted?
> >
> > Ed Woods

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 13 15:20:48 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 14:20:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again
In-Reply-To: <473A109E.10809@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <927308.45453.qm@web82313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Right, all around.  The 32/36DGV Weber is not a power
modification.  It is a convenience change.  The little
DGV works just fine if you keep the screwdrivers in
the toolbox.  Webers - even the little ones like the
32/36DGV - are good machines if left unabused.  My
Ferrari has four, dual choke 40DCNFs Webers.  I tuned
them when I first got the car in 1997 and haven't
touched them since!

rick

--- Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:

>   When I bought my '70 MGB many years ago I didn't
> have the Internet 
> resources (read: this list, et al) we enjoy now. 
> Because I didn't 
> realize that the problems with the SUs were because
> of the worn throttle 
> shafts, I bought a new Weber DGV carb and kit.  The
> car ran like a watch 
> after I installed it, although it had a bit less
> power.  That B was my 
> daily driver for over 5 yrs, until I sold it with
> the Weber still on it. 
>   Funny thing is I bought the electric choke version
> for ease of 
> installation.  It always worked fine.
> 
>    My present '69 B has the stock SUs, mainly
> because I knew more when 
> it came to refurbing them.  Guess I lived and
> learned.  ;^)
> 
>    Cheers,
> 
>     CR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ed Woods wrote:
> > All,
> > 
> > The continuing saga of the '77 MGB with the Weber
> downdraft:
> > 
> > Finally bit the bullet and purchased a new Weber
> downdraft on Ebay. Fitted 
> > it today. Running problem instantly cured. I have
> no idea what I missed when 
> > I dismantled and cleaned the old carb.
> > 
> > The replacement has a manual choke. Gone is the
> electric choke. No great 
> > loss, but has anyone on the list fit a cable to a
> Weber carb? What was used 
> > and how was it mounted?
> > 
> > Why anyone would buy a Weber for his street MG is
> beyond me. Fix the ZS or 
> > better still, fit twin SU's. Weber's are a PITA.
> Mounting one on your MG 
> > just to say "My car has a Weber(s)" is nuts.
> Simple and Workable beats 
> > Complex and Wonderful every time IMHO.
> > 
> > Thanks again to all who offered help and advice.
> > 
> > Ed Woods 
> > _______________________________________________
> > ccrobins at ktc.com
> > 
> > Edit your replies
> > 
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From Craig.Brownlee at oneok.com  Tue Nov 13 14:45:15 2007
From: Craig.Brownlee at oneok.com (Brownlee, Craig)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 15:45:15 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B5C6@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <473A109E.10809@ktc.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B5C6@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <041BB5DEF7DA964DB5ED6545129A489C2FA207@srvmail14oke.oneok.com>

On my 77B I removed the rheostat for the dash lights.  (Anything less
than full bright wasn't bright enough for night driving anyway).  I then
used that spot for the tee handle choke cable.  Works great for me and I
don't miss the rheostat.

Craig A. Brownlee, PE
Oklahoma Natural Gas Company
Manager - Eastern Region Operations
918-831-8201 (office)
918-606-4182 (cell)
918-831-8213 (fax)

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+craig.brownlee=oneok.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+craig.brownlee=oneok.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Dodd, Kelvin
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 3:19 PM
To: Ed Woods
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Weber downdraft again

Ed:

The 77-80 MGB should have a blanking plate, filling a rectangular switch
hole at the right hand side of the clock. A neat trick I've seen is to
cut two rectangular plates slightly larger than the hole. Purchase a
standard MGB Tee handle choke cable and drill a hole through the two
plates of the correct size to fit the cable. Sandwich the dash with the
plates using the choke cable to hold them together. Voila, an easy to
use choke location that is about the same place as the early cars.

Hope this helps

Kelvin.




> Ed Woods wrote:
> > All,
> >
> > The continuing saga of the '77 MGB with the Weber downdraft:
> >
> >> >
> > The replacement has a manual choke. Gone is the electric choke. No
> > great loss, but has anyone on the list fit a cable to a Weber carb?
> > What was used and how was it mounted?
> >
> > Ed Woods
_______________________________________________
craig.brownlee at oneok.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue Nov 13 18:57:28 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 19:57:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B5AF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B5AF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0711131757m7463c5a0jb26127e902e3e787@mail.gmail.com>

Two stories about this topic from Missouri.
First, I just started and drove my 79B after it had sat idle for over 7
months. The tank was half full; it did smoke some for a few minutes when I
first started it and let it idle. Drove it 8 miles to town and it ran fine.
Filled with new gas.
Secondly, I bought a new Yamaha generator for the RV a few years ago (it
holds about 2 gallons of gas). I gassed it up and ran it for 15 minutes to
make sure it worked and then it sat for a year with the gas in it. Tried to
start it and it wouldn't. Took it to the dealership and they put new gas in
it and it ran fine. They said they poured some of the old gas on the shop
floor and couldn't even get it to light with a match.
Monte

On Nov 13, 2007 2:55 PM, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> It's times like this when I really miss my old Land Rover. It was the
> patient recipient of many gallons of bad gas from "barn find" cars.
> Mixed 50/50 with good gas, the old brute would stink the place up, but
> never miss a beat.
>
> Now if I have iffy gas the likely candidate is my Rover SD1 as 8
> cylinders and 8.0:1 compression mean at least enough will fire to keep
> the motor chugging along.
>
> Don't put old gas into a single cylinder motor such as a lawn mower!
> Here in California, even the gas from last season can cause problems and
> prevent firing in a one lunger.
>
>
> MMMMMMMM. I love the smell of bad gasoline in the morning.        It
> smells like.........restoration in progress
>
>
> Kelvin Dodd
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> > Behalf Of Ron Fine
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 7:51 AM
> > To: MG List; healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
> >
>  > When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas
> > in my MGB that has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am
> > finishing the rebuild of the engine and plan to fire it up
> > later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or should it
> > be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored
> > outside during this period.
> >
> > Ron
> > 61 BN7
> > 66 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From montejane at gmail.com  Tue Nov 13 19:09:11 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 20:09:11 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] rack question
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0711131809qbc211efx4eef308856a24793@mail.gmail.com>

This afternoon I found that my 79B was leaking oil from the bottom cover of
my steering damper.
 I removed the lower cover plate and started draining the oil so I could
clean everything up before using silicone to make a new gasket. I moved the
steering wheel back and forth to facilitate draining the fluid quicker which
caused the end of the steering pinion to protrude a few inches beyond where
the end cover is supposed to keep it.  I'm sure the threads at the end of
the pinion disengaged from the rack at some time while I was moving the
steering wheel back and forth. Can I just tap it back into place, or do I
have to allign something first?
Thanks,
Monte

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Nov 14 02:28:24 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:28:24 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <011301c826a2$83632750$0200a8c0@Three>

Does it run?  If so use it.  I've not had any a year old but I usually have 
stuff up to five months old at the beginning of each season and it has never 
caused me a problem.  But that is UK fuel, well known to be much better 
quality that US fuel ;o)

----- Original Message ----- 
> When is gas too old to use? 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Nov 14 03:26:02 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 10:26:02 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] rack question
References: <cab4b95c0711131809qbc211efx4eef308856a24793@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01ba01c826a8$d21630d0$0200a8c0@Three>

If the pinion teeth (not threads) fully disengaged from the rack then its 
possible they shifted position as well.  If they go back in a different 
position the steering wheel will not be in the same rotational position when 
the car is travelling straight ahead as it was before, and the turn signal 
cancelling positions will also have altered.  Both of these can be corrected 
by altering the position of the UJ relative to one or other of the steering 
column or rack shafts.  On my cars one of the shafts (rack, I think) only 
has a notch for the UJ clamping bolt which means the UJ can only fit 
relative to this shaft in one position.  The other shaft has a groove going 
all round the shaft and this is the one you must make the adjustment on. 
However others have said both their shafts have the groove, which means you 
could make the adjustment at either end of the UJ.  Other than that I don't 
think it matters how the pinion engages with the rack.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... which
> caused the end of the steering pinion to protrude a few inches beyond 
> where
> the end cover is supposed to keep it.  I'm sure the threads at the end of
> the pinion disengaged from the rack at some time while I was moving the
> steering wheel back and forth. Can I just tap it back into place, or do I
> have to allign something first?

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 14 07:03:59 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 06:03:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <cab4b95c0711131757m7463c5a0jb26127e902e3e787@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <999525.44329.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Just read this thread and it caused me to think.  

Gasoline (or petrol) is a specific mixture of
hydrocarbons plus a tiny fraction of additives
professed to make big differences.  That knowledge
leads to two points.

(1) Since all gasoline is basically the same, brand
name means very little.  In fact, I select my fuel
supplier NOT based upon the vendor brand name but on
the volume of fuel they sell and the cleanliness of
their facility.  The first bit assumes that if there
is a lot of turnover, the chance of water or other
contaminates is less, and if the facility is clean,
neat and well maintained then perhaps the tanks and
delivery system is as well.

(2) Since gasoline is a mixture of hydrocarbons, all
with different PVT properties, it should be obvious
that the 'lighter' hydrocarbons evaporate first.  That
means that old gas is not the same composition as new
gas.  In fact, the fact that lighter constituents
flash off to the gaseous state quicker is why its easy
to start a car with fresh fuel.  The heavier
components need more heat to get them into the gaseous
state for combustion.  (Remember back there in
chemistry 101 when they said that all materials
oxidize in the gaseous state?)

Good stuff.  I like it when the list turns technical.
:-)

rick
'70 MGB Tourer

--- Monte/Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com> wrote:

> Two stories about this topic from Missouri.

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Wed Nov 14 07:02:06 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 08:02:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] rack question
In-Reply-To: <cab4b95c0711131809qbc211efx4eef308856a24793@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cab4b95c0711131809qbc211efx4eef308856a24793@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <473AFFDE.1030505@ktc.com>

   Seems to me that the thing to do after you reengage the pinion to the 
rack is to center the steering wheel and drive the car a short distance 
to see if it goes in a straight line.  If it does, fine.  If not you'll 
have to disengage the pinion with the wheels straight ahead and reengage 
the pinion with the steering wheel centered.  I don't know about tapping 
it back into place, though.  Maybe steady pressure with a clamp would be 
better.  Have to see how free it is.....

   CR



Monte/Jane Morris wrote:
> This afternoon I found that my 79B was leaking oil from the bottom cover of
> my steering damper.
>  I removed the lower cover plate and started draining the oil so I could
> clean everything up before using silicone to make a new gasket. I moved the
> steering wheel back and forth to facilitate draining the fluid quicker which
> caused the end of the steering pinion to protrude a few inches beyond where
> the end cover is supposed to keep it.  I'm sure the threads at the end of
> the pinion disengaged from the rack at some time while I was moving the
> steering wheel back and forth. Can I just tap it back into place, or do I
> have to allign something first?
> Thanks,
> Monte
> _______________________________________________
> ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From schultejim at msn.com  Wed Nov 14 07:32:49 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:32:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <999525.44329.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-F355795A4A21C0FE1DFD92CDB810@phx.gbl>

Rick
Your a gas He He He
Sorry, couldn't resist (-;



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler





>From: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
>To: Monte/Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>, "Dodd, 
>Kelvin"<doddk at mossmotors.com>
>CC: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>, healeys at autox.team.net,Ron Fine 
><RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Old Gas
>Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 06:03:59 -0800 (PST)
>
>Just read this thread and it caused me to think.
>
>Gasoline (or petrol) is a specific mixture of
>hydrocarbons plus a tiny fraction of additives
>professed to make big differences.  That knowledge
>leads to two points.
>
>(1) Since all gasoline is basically the same, brand
>name means very little.  In fact, I select my fuel
>supplier NOT based upon the vendor brand name but on
>the volume of fuel they sell and the cleanliness of
>their facility.  The first bit assumes that if there
>is a lot of turnover, the chance of water or other
>contaminates is less, and if the facility is clean,
>neat and well maintained then perhaps the tanks and
>delivery system is as well.
>
>(2) Since gasoline is a mixture of hydrocarbons, all
>with different PVT properties, it should be obvious
>that the 'lighter' hydrocarbons evaporate first.  That
>means that old gas is not the same composition as new
>gas.  In fact, the fact that lighter constituents
>flash off to the gaseous state quicker is why its easy
>to start a car with fresh fuel.  The heavier
>components need more heat to get them into the gaseous
>state for combustion.  (Remember back there in
>chemistry 101 when they said that all materials
>oxidize in the gaseous state?)
>
>Good stuff.  I like it when the list turns technical.
>:-)
>
>rick
>'70 MGB Tourer

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov 14 08:59:37 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:59:37 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] wire wheel axles
Message-ID: <004b01c826d7$5fec6090$1fc521b0$@com>

Anyone have an extra set of wire wheel axles to sell or trade?

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov 14 09:02:48 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 10:02:48 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
Message-ID: <005101c826d7$cf0a1df0$6d1e59d0$@com>

Hey'all,

 

Is the rear axle on an MGC-GT common to other BMC cars? Big Healey? Is it
the same as an MGB?

 

What axle ratios were available?

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov 14 09:06:54 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 10:06:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] wire wheel axles
In-Reply-To: <004b01c826d7$5fec6090$1fc521b0$@com>
References: <004b01c826d7$5fec6090$1fc521b0$@com>
Message-ID: <005701c826d8$629df690$27d9e3b0$@com>

I should have mentioned I'm looking for Spridget wire wheel axles...

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wm.
Severin Thompson
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 10:00 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] wire wheel axles

Anyone have an extra set of wire wheel axles to sell or trade?

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Nov 14 09:46:31 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 11:46:31 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
Message-ID: <c37.1adbc8bc.346c8067@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/14/2007 8:03:03 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
wsthompson at thicko.com writes:

Is the  rear axle on an MGC-GT common to other BMC cars? Big Healey? Is it
the same  as an MGB?



 
____________________________________


Yes, the same tube axle as the late MGB, with a range of ratios from 3.07  to 
3.7, as I recall.
 
Bill

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Nov 14 09:55:43 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 16:55:43 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
References: <005101c826d7$cf0a1df0$6d1e59d0$@com>
Message-ID: <00da01c826df$4cac1e50$0200a8c0@Three>

MGC and MGB (4-cylinder and V8) used the same axle design, although it 
changed from the Banjo to the Salisbury/tube with the GT and on the 
roadsters by July 67.  Disc and wire axles are different lengths in both 
cases - both casing and half-shafts.  There are other major differences 
between the two on the Banjo.  The B diff was always 3.909:1 (11/43) 
although the auto used 3.7:1 (10/37).  For competition you could get 4.555:1 
(9/41), 4.3:1 (10.43), and 4.1:1 (10/41) on the banjo, only the first and 
4.22:1 (9/38) on the Salisbury.  There was also a ZS LSD for both.  MGC used 
3.07:1 (14/43), 3.307:1 (13/43) and 3.7:1 (10/37) depending on year and 
gearbox.  All these can be fitted to the MGB as well of course.  The V8 also 
had the 3.07:1 for all cars.

>From Clausager.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle


> Hey'all,
>
>
>
> Is the rear axle on an MGC-GT common to other BMC cars? Big Healey? Is it
> the same as an MGB?
>
>
>
> What axle ratios were available?
>
>
>
>
>
> Wm. Severin Thompson
>
> ~iii<O
>
>
>
> <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com
>
> <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of 
> image001.png]
> _______________________________________________
> paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Nov 14 09:56:52 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 16:56:52 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] wire wheel axles
References: <004b01c826d7$5fec6090$1fc521b0$@com>
Message-ID: <00df01c826df$5c0086c0$0200a8c0@Three>

Set?  Do you mean the complete axle or just the half-shafts?  If the latter 
are you converting from disc to wire?  If so can you do that with just the 
half-shafts (and hubs) on a Sprite?  You can't on an MGB.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Anyone have an extra set of wire wheel axles to sell or trade?

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Nov 14 10:03:10 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 12:03:10 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
Message-ID: <bbf.1c7cd9ac.346c844e@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/14/2007 8:56:57 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

The B  diff was always 3.909:1 (11/43) 
although the auto used 3.7:1  (10/37).  For competition you could get 4.555:1 
(9/41), 4.3:1  (10.43), and 4.1:1 (10/41) on the banjo, only the first and 
4.22:1 (9/38)  on the Salisbury.  There was also a ZS LSD for both.  MGC used 
 
3.07:1 (14/43), 3.307:1 (13/43) and 3.7:1 (10/37) depending on year and  
gearbox.  All these can be fitted to the MGB as well of course.   The V8 also 
had the 3.07:1 for all cars.



 
____________________________________


On the banjo style you could also get a 5.13 axle, perfect for pulling  
stumps with.  I used to use one in my TVR race car - it had a top speed  around 100 
MPH, but it got there VERY quickly....
 
Bill

From Mowog1 at aol.com  Wed Nov 14 10:08:45 2007
From: Mowog1 at aol.com (Mowog1 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 12:08:45 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGC Axle
Message-ID: <c5a.1ce05689.346c859d@aol.com>

Is the rear axle on an MGC-GT common to other BMC cars? Big Healey? Is  it
the same as an MGB?
    
The case itself is the same. The backing plates, etc are different from the  
MGB.  I'm not sure what other cars shared it.

What axle ratios were  available?
 
For the MGC, the diff was available in a 3.07, 3.7. and 3.307 ratios. The  
latter was used in the automatic transmissioned cars.
 
rick
MGC 6165
MGC 3950





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From driver at formerglory.com  Wed Nov 14 10:17:31 2007
From: driver at formerglory.com (Former Glory Racing)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 12:17:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 185-60-14 Kumho Victoracer V700
Message-ID: <00c401c826e2$3e2362f0$6500a8c0@fgroffice>

Need one of the above 185-60-14 Kumho Victoracer.I'm told they are on
backorder.Need to replace flatspotted tire for next two races.Thanks,Bob
Respond to driver at formerglory.com

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Nov 14 10:33:56 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:33:56 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
In-Reply-To: <005101c826d7$cf0a1df0$6d1e59d0$@com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B719@kb1.mossmotors.com>

In 8 minutes you managed to confuse the heck out of me.

The MGC rear axle design as some other nice people have mentioned is the
same type as the MGB.

The brake assemblies and hubs are unique to the MGC as is the pinion
flange. The MGC uses wider brake drums and the hubs are set up for 5
mounting bolts rather than 4. The pinion flange matches the heavier duty
drive shaft which uses the bigger U joints (typically found on TR3-6
etc).

If you strip the brakes, hubs and pinion flange the remaining axle
assembly is interchangable between the MGB and MGC.




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:03 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
>
> Hey'all,
>
>
>
> Is the rear axle on an MGC-GT common to other BMC cars? Big
> Healey? Is it the same as an MGB?
>
>
>
> What axle ratios were available?
>
>
>
>
>
> Wm. Severin Thompson

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov 14 10:46:44 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 11:46:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B719@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <005101c826d7$cf0a1df0$6d1e59d0$@com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B719@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <008801c826e6$54a7dd40$fdf797c0$@com>

I'm primarily interested in interchangeability of the rear gear itself. It's
common on a big Healey to swap out the standard gear on an overdrive car
with the 3.54 gear of a non-overdrive car... dropping the revs further at
highway speeds.

Anyone add the 3.07 automatic gear  to an overdrive GT? 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dodd, Kelvin [mailto:doddk at mossmotors.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 11:34 AM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Mgs] MGC rear axle

In 8 minutes you managed to confuse the heck out of me.

The MGC rear axle design as some other nice people have mentioned is the
same type as the MGB. 

The brake assemblies and hubs are unique to the MGC as is the pinion
flange. The MGC uses wider brake drums and the hubs are set up for 5
mounting bolts rather than 4. The pinion flange matches the heavier duty
drive shaft which uses the bigger U joints (typically found on TR3-6
etc).

If you strip the brakes, hubs and pinion flange the remaining axle
assembly is interchangable between the MGB and MGC. 

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Nov 14 11:46:21 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 10:46:21 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
In-Reply-To: <008801c826e6$54a7dd40$fdf797c0$@com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B749@kb1.mossmotors.com>

The C engine in stock form doesn't put out an incredible amount of
torque because there is quite a bit of drag from the main bearings. I'd
be careful how high a gear you go with. The cars had pretty good gearing
out of the box for a good balance of acceleration and long distance
cruising.

The typical upgrade is to leave the gearing alone but to upgrade revving
ability by improving head flow and then reducing flywheel mass. This
improves responsiveness a lot and makes the car a lot more fun to drive.


I add the following disclaimer. I am not a hands on expert with MGC
modifications. I've been doing a lot of research and have listened to a
lot of owners who seem to know their stuff.

Kelvin Dodd




> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wm. Severin Thompson [mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 9:47 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
>
> I'm primarily interested in interchangeability of the rear
> gear itself. It's common on a big Healey to swap out the
> standard gear on an overdrive car with the 3.54 gear of a
> non-overdrive car... dropping the revs further at highway speeds.
>
> Anyone add the 3.07 automatic gear  to an overdrive GT?

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Nov 14 11:30:55 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 13:30:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
In-Reply-To: <008801c826e6$54a7dd40$fdf797c0$@com>
References: <005101c826d7$cf0a1df0$6d1e59d0$@com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CE0B719@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<008801c826e6$54a7dd40$fdf797c0$@com>
Message-ID: <20071114184908.728A5187A63@autox.team.net>

There is a chap in Ottawa that sells the 3.07 ratio crown wheel and 
pinion gears as used in MGCs.  I swapped my MG rear axle out to this 
ratio and everything is fine!

At 12:46 PM 14/11/2007, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
>I'm primarily interested in interchangeability of the rear gear itself. It's
>common on a big Healey to swap out the standard gear on an overdrive car
>with the 3.54 gear of a non-overdrive car... dropping the revs further at
>highway speeds.
>
>Anyone add the 3.07 automatic gear  to an overdrive GT?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dodd, Kelvin [mailto:doddk at mossmotors.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 11:34 AM
>To: Wm. Severin Thompson; mgs at autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
>
>In 8 minutes you managed to confuse the heck out of me.
>
>The MGC rear axle design as some other nice people have mentioned is the
>same type as the MGB.
>
>The brake assemblies and hubs are unique to the MGC as is the pinion
>flange. The MGC uses wider brake drums and the hubs are set up for 5
>mounting bolts rather than 4. The pinion flange matches the heavier duty
>drive shaft which uses the bigger U joints (typically found on TR3-6
>etc).
>
>If you strip the brakes, hubs and pinion flange the remaining axle
>assembly is interchangable between the MGB and MGC.
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Nov 14 12:18:25 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:18:25 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
Message-ID: <cc2.1c126b18.346ca401@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/14/2007 10:46:22 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

The C  engine in stock form doesn't put out an incredible amount of
torque because  there is quite a bit of drag from the main bearings. I'd
be careful how  high a gear you go with. The cars had pretty good gearing
out of the box  for a good balance of acceleration and long distance
cruising.

The  typical upgrade is to leave the gearing alone but to upgrade  revving
ability by improving head flow and then reducing flywheel mass.  This
improves responsiveness a lot and makes the car a lot more fun to  drive.   
____________________________________
 
Kelvin has it just right. The late gearing of 3.7 with a 0.82 OD is ideal  - 
longer is a waste. The engines respond very well to a lighter flywheel and  
some head work.
 
Bill

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Wed Nov 14 16:13:30 2007
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 18:13:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGC
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFIEFICAAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Greetings to All,

I recall that the '69 C that my Dad had would turn 1600 rpm in 4th o/d at 55
mph, and 2000 rpm at 70 mph in 4th o/d. I do not know if his tach was
accurate, or what axle ratio was fitted.

Prhaps C owners on the list can provide thier own rpm and speed and tire
data to help Will choose the ratio he needs for his car.

Eric in Florida
1974 MGB

From rcamblin2 at comcast.net  Wed Nov 14 17:44:30 2007
From: rcamblin2 at comcast.net (Robin Camblin)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 18:44:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Parts Source for T9 Transmission
Message-ID: <000001c82720$afb23e30$1600a8c0@RobC>

I'm looking for some parts sources for the T9 5speed transmission in the US.
I know there are plenty across the water but would like to find one on our
side if possible. 

 

Thanks in advance

 

Rob Camblin

1967 MGBGT

1960 MGA

1951 MGTD

From jkk at adams.net  Wed Nov 14 17:46:20 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 18:46:20 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] wire wheel axles
References: <004b01c826d7$5fec6090$1fc521b0$@com>
	<00df01c826df$5c0086c0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <004101c82720$f0bf3a40$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>


  If the latter
> are you converting from disc to wire?  If so can you do that with just the
> half-shafts (and hubs) on a Sprite?  You can't on an MGB.
>
> PaulH.
>

Yes, that's all there is to converting to wire wheels on a Spridget. BTDT!

Jim 

From RampantNM at aol.com  Wed Nov 14 19:59:30 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 21:59:30 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
Message-ID: <cb3.208f8622.346d1012@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/14/2007 9:57:10 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

All  these can be fitted to the MGB as well of course.  The V8 also 
had  the 3.07:1 for all cars.





Any thoughts on fitting the 3.07 in lieu of a five speed or overdrive in a  4 
cylinder B?
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Wed Nov 14 20:08:03 2007
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 22:08:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
In-Reply-To: <cb3.208f8622.346d1012@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFMEFJCAAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

The reduction in gearing from 3.909 to 3.07 is about 21.5%. This would
seriously hamper acceleration in a stock B  but provide relaxed cruising. If
you had a car with a supercharger, it might be sensible.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf
Of RampantNM at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 10:00 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGC rear axle


In a message dated 11/14/2007 9:57:10 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

All  these can be fitted to the MGB as well of course.  The V8 also
had  the 3.07:1 for all cars.





Any thoughts on fitting the 3.07 in lieu of a five speed or overdrive in a
4
cylinder B?
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed,
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced
hands,
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
ericemarkley at bellsouth.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.31/1130 - Release Date: 11/14/2007
9:27 AM

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov 15 02:15:07 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 09:15:07 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Mk I Gas Tank Question
References: <p06240800c35ec0dec5e3@[192.168.2.3]>
	<008e01c825d6$133b1f90$0200a8c0@Three>
	<web-9622447@email-prod-be-1.ucsc.edu>
Message-ID: <018001c82769$7227a7f0$0200a8c0@Three>

Could well be right.  In the UK there were (probably still are!) charlatans 
selling tin pellets which supposedly compensated for the loss of lead, some 
of these were at least contained in a tube inserted into the fuel line, but 
other you just chucked in the tank.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Thanks, Paul.  I was surprised by the lack of debris/rust in the '64 tank. 
> The only thing in there besides very old gasoline was a slug of what 
> looked like lead...perhaps someone's idea of a work-around for the 
> disappearence of leaded gas(?)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov 15 02:23:08 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 09:23:08 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
References: <cb3.208f8622.346d1012@aol.com>
Message-ID: <018101c82769$724912a0$0200a8c0@Three>

Wouldn't that achieve the inverse of the Holy Grail and lose out on both 
acceleration *and* top speed?  The ratio in 4th is 3.909:1, OD 4th 3.2:1. 
Top speed is 105mph, which means 5,800 rpm in 4th or 4,773 in OD 4th.  So 
the engine is already at or past its maximum gearing (mine seems to pull a 
high top speed in OD 4th than 4th, but maybe that is just because I cringe 
at the mechanical noises anywhere near the yellow line).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Any thoughts on fitting the 3.07 in lieu of a five speed or overdrive in a 
> 4
> cylinder B?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov 15 03:07:49 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 10:07:49 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Exploding batteries
Message-ID: <01b801c8276f$bfc60d20$0200a8c0@Three>

 I was watching an episode in the new series of The Garage on Discovery last
 night about the 'English Mobile Mechanics' (it's actually run by a Scot but
 he is so useless he probably decided to insult us instead) in Spain.  They
 had a BMW with a flat battery so connected a boost charger direct to the 
battery in the boot
(even though my son's BMW has jump-lead connections in the engine 
compartment).
These boost chargers put a very high voltage to the battery and hence a high
 current, a lot of boiling and gassing.  They got it started
 and the boss told one of the mechanics to disconnect the charger, which he
 did - by disconnecting one of the battery clips without turning off the
 charger first.  Big spark from breaking the high current, ignited the gases
 around and inside the battery, and the battery exploded.  The mechanic was
 *very* lucky in that he only got acid up his arm and not in his eyes, nor
 any injuries from plastic 'shrapnel'.

Whilst I suspect that most of us have smaller chargers that would result in 
less gassing and a smaller spark, I wouldn't want to be the one to find out 
just how small a spark and an amount of gas would cause an explosion.  This 
is also whilst the last connection to be made when using jump-leads should 
be made *remote* from the battery.

PaulH.

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Thu Nov 15 05:33:00 2007
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 07:33:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
In-Reply-To: <018101c82769$724912a0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFOEFKCAAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Paul has a good point. A stock B with a 3.07 axle ratio would likely not
have enough torque to pull redline in 4th gear, hence my suggestion of a
supercharger. The benefits would be reduced rpm on the highway (approx. 3800
to 3000 at 70 mph)and perhaps some improvement in engine wear and fuel
economy. One would reduce acceleration and top speed potential.

The overdrive gives nearly the same reduction in rpm at 70 mph, about 3100
to 3150, and preserves the acceleration of the stock differential ratio. As
the B isn't exactly a pavement shredder, I suggest that this would be the
preferred solution.

Like with many other things in life, what is the intended purpose for the
tool in question? Sometimes you need a tack hammer and other times a sledge
hammer. Each has their place.

Eric in Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+ericemarkley=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf
Of Paul Hunt
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 4:23 AM
To: RampantNM at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGC rear axle


Wouldn't that achieve the inverse of the Holy Grail and lose out on both
acceleration *and* top speed?  The ratio in 4th is 3.909:1, OD 4th 3.2:1.
Top speed is 105mph, which means 5,800 rpm in 4th or 4,773 in OD 4th.  So
the engine is already at or past its maximum gearing (mine seems to pull a
high top speed in OD 4th than 4th, but maybe that is just because I cringe
at the mechanical noises anywhere near the yellow line).

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----
> Any thoughts on fitting the 3.07 in lieu of a five speed or overdrive in a
> 4
> cylinder B?
_______________________________________________
ericemarkley at bellsouth.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.33/1132 - Release Date: 11/15/2007
9:34 AM

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Nov 15 07:51:16 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 08:51:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] wheels that fi an MGC-GT
Message-ID: <009801c82796$fb9a7300$f2cf5900$@com>

My C-GT has wire wheels. The splines are the same as a big Healey (all but a
BJ8).

 

Anyone ever run Cobra wires on an MGC?

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Nov 15 07:55:35 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 09:55:35 EST
Subject: [Mgs] wheels that fi an MGC-GT
Message-ID: <d33.19ea0c31.346db7e7@aol.com>

In a message dated 15/11/2007 6:51:40 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
wsthompson at thicko.com writes:

My C-GT  has wire wheels. The splines are the same as a big Healey (all but  a
BJ8).



Anyone ever run Cobra wires on an  MGC?




 
____________________________________

The Cobra wheels are well-laced and have more outward offset and won't fit  
an MGB/C without wheel well interference.  They are 15x6", which is  possible 
to (just) fit under there, but not with negative offset.
 
Picture of wheels on my car (way more clearance) : 
_http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i/non-rhodo/frontj.jpg_ 
(http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/i/non-rhodo/frontj.jpg)    Those are Daytons
 
Bill S.

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Nov 15 09:28:01 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:28:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
Message-ID: <20071115.112801.3180.4.MGBOB@juno.com>

Paul,
   Yes, it reduces both acceleration and top speed.  
   Carl Cedarstrand, T-series guru in California, put together a text
about ring & pinion exchanges in TD/TF cars, which are geared for
effective stump-pulling but not for 65 mph cruising.  He wrote that the
axle ratio fitted by the factory achieves maximum possible top speed, as
engine speed at which peak power occurs, 5200 rpm, is that rpm required
to drive the car at top road speed.  I have read in other places that
gearing for maximum speed was standard practice for almost everyone until
the 1970s.  Cedarstrand goes on to note that the decrease in 4th gear
hill-climbing ability will be greater than reduction in top speed or
reduction in acceleration. 
   His charts show curves for horsepower available and horsepower
required to shove a TD through the air.  Changing from original 5.125 to
4.30 reduces top speed by about 3 mph, not significant for the use most
of us give the cars.  His chart of effects on acceleration and hill
climbing shows greater changes.  Comparing the 4.3 to the original 5.125,
in 4th speed the acceleration ability is 90 % at 30 and 40 mph, 87% at 50
mph, 82% at 60mph, and 70% at 70mph.   The hill-climbing performance is
affected more. 80% at 30mph, 78% at 40 mph, 75% at 50 mph, 67% at 60 mph,
and 50% at 70 mph.
   In TDs, that first speed becomes useful, one finds that second and
third are more useful over a greater speed range, then one engages fourth
at 30 mph or so for puttering about or at 50+ for higher speed driving.  
   What are comparative advantages of changing gearing vs switching to
15" wheels on MGB?  I do not have any wheels to measure for
circumference, but the formula for working up mph/1000 rpm is     (1000
rev/mile) (60 min/hour)  /    (gear ratio) (tire revolutions per mile)
 Bob

 
 
On Thu, 15 Nov 2007 09:23:08 -0000 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
> Wouldn't that achieve the inverse of the Holy Grail and lose out on 
> both  acceleration *and* top speed?  The ratio in 4th is 3.909:1, OD
4th 
> 3.2:1. 
> Top speed is 105mph, which means 5,800 rpm in 4th or 4,773 in OD 
> 4th.  So  the engine is already at or past its maximum gearing (mine
seems to 
> pull a  high top speed in OD 4th than 4th, but maybe that is just
because I 
> cringe  at the mechanical noises anywhere near the yellow line).
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > Any thoughts on fitting the 3.07 in lieu of a five speed or 
> overdrive in a  4
> > cylinder B?

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Nov 15 11:09:09 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 10:09:09 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Exploding batteries
In-Reply-To: <01b801c8276f$bfc60d20$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6C77F@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Good reminder. With "sealed" batteries, we tend to get sloppy without
remembering that so called sealed batteries still have vents.


AGM batteries like the Gates cells don't have this problem, but you will
destroy them by using chargers of this type.

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net
> [mailto:owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt
> Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 2:08 AM
> To: V8 list; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Exploding batteries
>
>  I was watching an episode in the new series of The Garage on
> Discovery last  night about the 'English Mobile Mechanics'
> (it's actually run by a Scot but  he is so useless he
> probably decided to insult us instead) in Spain.  They  had a
> BMW with a flat battery so connected a boost charger direct
> to the battery in the boot (even though my son's BMW has
> jump-lead connections in the engine compartment).
> These boost chargers put a very high voltage to the battery
> and hence a high  current, a lot of boiling and gassing.
> They got it started  and the boss told one of the mechanics
> to disconnect the charger, which he  did - by disconnecting
> one of the battery clips without turning off the  charger
> first.  Big spark from breaking the high current, ignited the
> gases  around and inside the battery, and the battery
> exploded.  The mechanic was
>  *very* lucky in that he only got acid up his arm and not in
> his eyes, nor  any injuries from plastic 'shrapnel'.
>
> Whilst I suspect that most of us have smaller chargers that
> would result in less gassing and a smaller spark, I wouldn't
> want to be the one to find out just how small a spark and an
> amount of gas would cause an explosion.  This is also whilst
> the last connection to be made when using jump-leads should
> be made *remote* from the battery.
>
> PaulH.

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Thu Nov 15 11:10:51 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 13:10:51 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Exploding Batteries
Message-ID: <c80.1a5c2899.346de5ab@aol.com>

It doesn't take much of a spark to cause a battery to explode.  Years  ago I 
was a student in a class on auto electronics.  The instructor was  
demonstrating an electrical concept using a battery for power.  A small  spark, created 
when he disconnected a component caused the battery to explode,  showering the 
class with acid and battery shards.  Fortunately, nobody was  hurt.  However, 
my down jacket later developed an interesting pattern of  holes.  I also 
remember when, as a lad at the local foreign car garage, I  used to use a device 
that measured current in battery cells by bridging a tool,  made for the 
purpose, across the exposed lead connectors on the top of the  batteries of the day.  
I generated lots sparks as I wiggled the tool for  the best possible 
connection.  Why I still have a face is beyond  me....
 
Bill Wilkman
USA



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Nov 15 12:04:16 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:04:16 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
In-Reply-To: <cb3.208f8622.346d1012@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6C7B5@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I would definitely install a 3.70 MGC rear end into a supercharged MGB
if I had one, but with the 175/80 tires I'm running on my car I don't
think I would go with anything higher. The standard 3.90 is a bit low
for the available torque and I have gotten into the habit of starting
from stop signs in second.

When I get some time, I'll put an OD in the B, which will cut down the
cruising noise a bit. The daily commute is 80+ mph so the OD will cut
down engine noise a bit.

When I ran a V6 with 4 speed many years ago I used a 3.30 MGC rear end
with tall 14" (195/80) tires and it was still too low a gearing. The
3.07 would have been much better.

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of RampantNM at aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:00 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGC rear axle
>
> In a message dated 11/14/2007 9:57:10 A.M. Mountain Standard
> Time, paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:
>
> All  these can be fitted to the MGB as well of course.  The
> V8 also had  the 3.07:1 for all cars.
>
>
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on fitting the 3.07 in lieu of a five speed or
> overdrive in a  4
> cylinder B?
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
>
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Nov 15 12:16:11 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:16:11 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] wheels that fi an MGC-GT
In-Reply-To: <009801c82796$fb9a7300$f2cf5900$@com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6C7C1@kb1.mossmotors.com>

The splines are the same as the BJ8 too, where did you get the
information that they weren't?

The stock MGC rear fender wells, just as the MGB are quite narrow.
Center laced Cobra wheels will stick out too far requiring rolling of
the fender lip and also some flaring. Not recommended.

The standard MGC wheels (5" wide) are very strong and have a unique
offset to keep the tire centered in the well. Short of modifying the
fenders they are the best wheel for the job. The knock off Minilite
(5.5" wide, Minataur or KN brand) fits too, but you do have to be
careful with tire choice. Many 195 series tires will rub on one side or
the other. 185 section tires seem to be the best bet without fender
trimming.

If you want to get carried away, you can go with Sebring fender flares.
I'm making up 7" wide knock off alloys for my car. MWAHHH, HA HA!

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson
> Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 6:51 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] wheels that fi an MGC-GT
>
> My C-GT has wire wheels. The splines are the same as a big
> Healey (all but a BJ8).
>
>
>
> Anyone ever run Cobra wires on an MGC?
>
>
>
>
>
> Wm. Severin Thompson
>
> ~iii<O

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Nov 15 12:22:52 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 13:22:52 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] wheels that fi an MGC-GT
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6C7C1@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <009801c82796$fb9a7300$f2cf5900$@com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6C7C1@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <000701c827bc$ee8493a0$cb8dbae0$@com>

At some point there was a switch between coarse thread to fine thread (or
the other way around) on big Healeys if I remember right.

I've got the New Zealand made Minilite replicas on my 100-6... much better
looking than the Minitaurs in my opinion (beefier center). I may put the
Cobra wheels on the 100-6 and the Minilites on the C.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dodd, Kelvin [mailto:doddk at mossmotors.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Mgs] wheels that fi an MGC-GT

The splines are the same as the BJ8 too, where did you get the
information that they weren't?

The stock MGC rear fender wells, just as the MGB are quite narrow.
Center laced Cobra wheels will stick out too far requiring rolling of
the fender lip and also some flaring. Not recommended. 

The standard MGC wheels (5" wide) are very strong and have a unique
offset to keep the tire centered in the well. Short of modifying the
fenders they are the best wheel for the job. The knock off Minilite
(5.5" wide, Minataur or KN brand) fits too, but you do have to be
careful with tire choice. Many 195 series tires will rub on one side or
the other. 185 section tires seem to be the best bet without fender
trimming. 

If you want to get carried away, you can go with Sebring fender flares.
I'm making up 7" wide knock off alloys for my car. MWAHHH, HA HA!

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Nov 15 16:32:30 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 17:32:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] wheels that fi an MGC-GT
References: <009801c82796$fb9a7300$f2cf5900$@com><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6C7C1@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<000701c827bc$ee8493a0$cb8dbae0$@com>
Message-ID: <090d01c827df$cab3cb30$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<At some point there was a switch between coarse thread to fine thread (or
the other way around) on big Healeys if I remember right.
>>

You ARE correct (fine to coarse), Flounder.

Later BJ-8s got 8tpi.  From # 26705 onwards.

Ed

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Nov 16 02:31:59 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 09:31:59 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Exploding batteries
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6C77F@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <02aa01c82835$88409250$0200a8c0@Three>

Indeed.  And that BMW with the battery in the boot/trunk should have had a 
vent pipe to the outside anyway to prevent gases building up in an enclosed 
space.  Which is why I keep recommending against those 'battery boxes' for 
MGBs being used to hold batteries rather than as an extra storage bin when 
converting from twin 6v to single 12v which is what they were originally 
intended for.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
Good reminder. With "sealed" batteries, we tend to get sloppy without
remembering that so called sealed batteries still have vents.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov 16 05:00:06 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 06:00:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 T minus 1 week
Message-ID: <006001c82848$3d457e60$b7d07b20$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

We're one week away from SOS '07. Preparation at the Team Thicko
International Headquarters continues.

 

Larry Daniels was over yesterday, and I believe he was shocked at how much
work has taken place in organizing the shop. I found a local British car
owner ('69 Spitfire, and a Leyland tractor.. hah!) that owns a sandblasting
business. I took Larry's Bugeye over there (not "Bob, the Beast of Bondo",
but his other one) Although LD had started the job sandblasting job in my
driveway, this guy managed to finish the whole car in 1.5 hours for $150. We
could have had another 16 hours in the job at the rate we were going. At SOS
we'll get that body tub up on the rotisserie, and begin to cut out and weld
in patch panels. This will be good experience for those of you looking to
learn.

 

If you're looking to contribute to the food & drink, let me know. (Ya never
can have enough interesting beer, ya dig?)

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov 16 08:17:26 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 09:17:26 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 project good news
Message-ID: <001901c82863$cf0eb4e0$6d2c1ea0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I managed to get Mary Albrecht's MKI Midget off the trailer. The car has
been off the road for 17 years. We hooked it up to the Kubota, and tugged it
with the car in 4th gear (gently), and I'm happy to report the motor is not
stuck. Yee hah.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov 16 11:18:09 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 12:18:09 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Spridget death row
Message-ID: <007201c8287d$0d53d500$27fb7f00$@com>

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=8gi920w
<http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=8gi920w&s=1> &s=1

 

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Nov 16 11:30:53 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 12:30:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Healeys] SOS '07 Spridget death row
In-Reply-To: <007201c8287d$0d53d500$27fb7f00$@com>
References: <007201c8287d$0d53d500$27fb7f00$@com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071116122929.036abf10@nosimport.com>

That'll look good with 8"of snow on it.......


Give RWA a new meaning...

(rusted wheel arch)

Peter C.
----

At 12:18 PM 11/16/2007, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:

>http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=8gi920w
><http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=8gi920w&s=1> &s=1

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Nov 17 07:23:35 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 14:23:35 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
Message-ID: <00db01c82927$3ccb02e0$0200a8c0@Three>

Seriously, these images are shocking, but show the risks we run every time 
we drive.  If you have been trying to get a loved one - or yourself - to 
slow down, then maybe you should take a look.

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ds.htm

PaulH. 

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 17 08:26:17 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 07:26:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Head-on collision NOT for the faint
 hearted/REALLY REALLY REALLY shocking
In-Reply-To: <00db01c82927$3ccb02e0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <889502.14656.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Geez Paul! I have had 26 years as a career Paramedic/FF and those pictures show some of the worst body trauma examples I have seen. 
   
  I changed my subject heading to try and warn people.
  Carl

Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
  Seriously, these images are shocking, but show the risks we run every time 
we drive. If you have been trying to get a loved one - or yourself - to 
slow down, then maybe you should take a look.

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ds.htm

PaulH. 





Yahoo! Groups Links
       
---------------------------------
Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.

From ATWEDITOR at aol.com  Sat Nov 17 08:28:52 2007
From: ATWEDITOR at aol.com (ATWEDITOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 10:28:52 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
Message-ID: <bc8.1e89f0f0.347062b4@aol.com>

Back in the 60s when U.S. schools still offered "drivers education" before  
the insurance nazis forced them to stop, there was a handful of  
blood-on-the-hiway movies shown to instill the fear of something worse than  god.  The 
all-time classic was "Broken Glass." 
 
Not only did those films of all that carnage make me slow up a  little bit, 
it lessened my sense of shock when I went to Viet Nam a few years  later and 
saw the same kind of thing, but not from a car accident.
 
Cheers!
 
Jay Donoghue
72 B-GT
66 Mustang
 
In a message dated 11/17/2007 9:36:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

Seriously, these images are shocking, but show the risks we run every  time 
we drive.  If you have been trying to get a loved one - or  yourself - to 
slow down, then maybe you should take a  look.







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From don at napanet.net  Sat Nov 17 10:07:13 2007
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 09:07:13 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <00db01c82927$3ccb02e0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <00db01c82927$3ccb02e0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20071117085553.02ac9e40@pop.napanet.net>

>Years ago, I worked at the Napa County Public Works Department, office job 
>in civil engineering.  A group of us shared a subscription to the 
>California Highway Patrolman Magazine.  Each issue was full of photos of 
>mangled cars, trucks, motorcycles and bodies.  It made me a lot more aware 
>of the dangers of being on the road, and I as as result I drove more 
>slowly and cautiously.  Still do. Modern cars are so quiet and insulated 
>from the outside world, that people end up going way too fast.  As badly 
>as an old MG would fare in an accident, at least you get realistic 
>feedback of the sensation of speed which maybe makes one more 
>responsive.  Also, MGs are nimble so that one can avoid an accident better 
>than in some cars.  I have a Miata that I drive regularly and it's quick 
>steering and small size have allowed me to avoid several serious collisions.


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 17 10:32:29 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 09:32:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <bc8.1e89f0f0.347062b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <586861.77862.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

ATWEDITOR at aol.com wrote: Back in the 60s when U.S. schools still offered "drivers education" before  
the insurance nazis forced them to stop, there was a handful of  
blood-on-the-hiway movies shown to instill the fear of something worse than  god.  The 
all-time classic was "Broken Glass." 
 
Not only did those films of all that carnage make me slow up a  little bit, 
it lessened my sense of shock when I went to Viet Nam a few years  later and 
saw the same kind of thing, but not from a car accident.
 
---------------------
They still offer it, Jay, and still show the same movie I saw in the '70's. Of course, gym teachers teach it... But the main teacher in my son's HS is pretty god. He is certified as a driver's ed instructor (not just classroom but car-based). I think you're referring to the schools having a couple of cars for on-road training. That is certainly gone.

In NJ, you cannot get a learner's permit without going through a certified driving school. Of course, the US drvier's tests are a joke, compared to the training you get in other parts of the world. The toughest part of the driving test here continues to be parallel parking.




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 17 10:39:03 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 09:39:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <00db01c82927$3ccb02e0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <109364.4035.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> Seriously, these images are shocking, but show the risks we run
> every time we drive.

You might have warned us that there were graphic pictures
of human carnage in there.  I had to run to the bathroom and
throw up.  These days, "shocking" can mean anything from
mass murder to a Christmas tree on the court house lawn,
depending on the "values" of the speaker.

>  If you have been trying to get a loved one - or yourself
> - to slow down, then maybe you should take a look.

It's also important to point out that speed doesn't kill,
speed differential does.  If the traffic flow is moving at
100 MPH, it's far safer to drive at 100 than at 50.  If 
you must drive slowly, do it in the outside lane.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better pen pal. 
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.  http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Sat Nov 17 11:21:38 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 13:21:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
References: <00db01c82927$3ccb02e0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <005b01c82946$b1d3dac0$6501a8c0@RicksPC>

Here are some really graphic photos of a young man who was doing 120 MPH on 
a motorcycle and crashed into the rear of an 18 wheeler.  They are graphic 
so dont click if you are faint hearted:
http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e347/rculpepper/TulsaMotorcycleWreck/

Rick

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "V8 list" <mgb-v8 at autox.team.net>; 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2007 09:23
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted


> Seriously, these images are shocking, but show the risks we run every time
> we drive.  If you have been trying to get a loved one - or yourself - to
> slow down, then maybe you should take a look.
>
> http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ds.htm
>
> PaulH.

From lundgren at byu.net  Sat Nov 17 11:18:30 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 11:18:30 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <586861.77862.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <586861.77862.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <473F3076.30309@byu.net>

When I was in Mexico 10 years ago, you brought your own picture and 5 
bucks (peso equivalent) and you had your license, no questions/test.

Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Of course, the US drvier's tests are a joke, 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sat Nov 17 12:01:07 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 12:01:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <473F3076.30309@byu.net>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12D64@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Similar thing when I lived in Colombia about 20 years ago - it cost me
1,000 Colombian pesos (which was roughly $10) plus a picture. And this
was done in my work office. I just gave the pesos and a picture to one
of the Colombian coworkers and he took care of the rest.

But as I recall, there was and probably still is an option here in the
US where you can similarly purchase an "International driver's license",
good in most countries, without any tests but requires a current state
license.

David Councill

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Andrew B. Lundgren
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2007 11:19 AM
To: Dan DiBiase
Cc: ATWEDITOR at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com;
mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted

When I was in Mexico 10 years ago, you brought your own picture and 5
bucks (peso equivalent) and you had your license, no questions/test.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sat Nov 17 12:30:57 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 13:30:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12D64@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12D64@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <473F4171.2020806@gmail.com>

Councill, David wrote:
> Similar thing when I lived in Colombia about 20 years ago - it cost me
> 1,000 Colombian pesos (which was roughly $10) plus a picture. And this
> was done in my work office. I just gave the pesos and a picture to one
> of the Colombian coworkers and he took care of the rest.
>
> But as I recall, there was and probably still is an option here in the
> US where you can similarly purchase an "International driver's license",
> good in most countries, without any tests but requires a current state
> license.
Yes, I carry one of those when I go to England.

-The Roxter
--

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 17 14:16:21 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 13:16:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <473F4171.2020806@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <37972.19353.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

 Councill, David wrote:

> But as I recall, there was and probably still is an option here
> in the
> US where you can similarly purchase an "International driver's
> license",
> good in most countries, without any tests but requires a current
> state license.

I'm not sure about all EU countries, but at least in Germany
a driver's license from any US State is honored.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. 
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 

From derek at vandivere.net  Sat Nov 17 14:25:57 2007
From: derek at vandivere.net (Derek Vandivere)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 22:25:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <37972.19353.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <37972.19353.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <473F5C65.3020508@vandivere.net>

Over here (The Netherlands), and I think most European countries, an 
American license is good for up to 30 days. After that, you need a Dutch 
license (usually a matter of lessons and several thousand euros). 
Luckily for me, there's a special tax status (for immigrants like me 
with scarce skills) that lets you trade in your license without having 
to take the test.

David Breneman wrote:
>  Councill, David wrote:
>
>   
>> But as I recall, there was and probably still is an option here
>> in the
>> US where you can similarly purchase an "International driver's
>> license",
>> good in most countries, without any tests but requires a current
>> state license.
>>     
>
> I'm not sure about all EU countries, but at least in Germany
> a driver's license from any US State is honored.
>
>
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
>
>
>       ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. 
> Make Yahoo! your homepage.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
> _______________________________________________
> derek at vandivere.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Nov 18 03:01:16 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 10:01:16 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
References: <586861.77862.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<473F3076.30309@byu.net>
Message-ID: <00ce01c829cb$e5e57820$0200a8c0@Three>

In southern Ireland once you have *failed* your test twice you can drive 
unaccompanied.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Of course, the US drvier's tests are a joke,

From RampantNM at aol.com  Sun Nov 18 08:32:54 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 10:32:54 EST
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Spridget death row
Message-ID: <cf1.212d0050.3471b526@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/16/2007 11:18:54 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
wsthompson at thicko.com writes:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=8gi920w



Just get Frank to take off two weeks and you could have 7 restored  cars!
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun Nov 18 09:56:46 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 11:56:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] questions about '78 MG Midget
Message-ID: <002f01c82a04$12693660$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

A friend has asked me to resurrect a 1978 MG Midget that has sat 
un-used for a few years. His hope is to have a decent driver. It 
appears quite rust-free and deserves to be driven.

MGA's I know. MGB's I know. But I've never owned a Midget. Any 
gotcha's to be aware of?

My plan is to clean it up, change all fluids, fresh gasoline, adjust 
timing & valves, rebuild the carb and the brake system (IMO a car that 
won't start is inconvenient but a car that won't stop is deadly) and 
give it a go.

It has the single S-Z carb. I'm not sure if it has an auto or manual 
choke. I'd prefer a manual choke. Can the auto be (easily) changed to 
manual?

Is there a better option for carburation - similar to back-dating our 
'78 MGB to dual SU's?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From lundgren at byu.net  Sun Nov 18 12:48:25 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 12:48:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <d3e.197518ac.3471cd3a@aol.com>
References: <d3e.197518ac.3471cd3a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47409709.4090203@byu.net>

Thanks for confirming my choice not to look.

DANMAS at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/18/2007 11:27:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> cmfloyd at chartertn.net writes:
>
> think  everyone 
> knew it was a fatal accident without seeing the morbid pics of  the body. 
>
>
> I could have lived comfortably the rest of my life without having ever seen  
> those pics.
>  
> Double yuck!

From don at napanet.net  Sun Nov 18 13:58:02 2007
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 12:58:02 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <47409709.4090203@byu.net>
References: <d3e.197518ac.3471cd3a@aol.com> <47409709.4090203@byu.net>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20071118125346.02bb7cb0@pop.napanet.net>

Seeing photos like this is good for all of us.  It is a big reality check, 
and is a reminder of just how dangerous automobile travel is.  We are way 
too insulated from harsh reality, and it makes us irresponsible.  If we got 
to see the results of what our bombs were doing in Iraq (photos are on the 
web), maybe we'd think twice before starting any more wars.
(Sorry to preach like this, but it is Sunday.)

At 11:48 AM 11/18/2007, you wrote:

>Thanks for confirming my choice not to look.
>
>DANMAS at aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 11/18/2007 11:27:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > cmfloyd at chartertn.net writes:
> >
> > think  everyone
> > knew it was a fatal accident without seeing the morbid pics of  the body.
> >
> >
> > I could have lived comfortably the rest of my life without having ever 
> seen
> > those pics.
> >
> > Double yuck!
>_______________________________________________
>don at napanet.net
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.0/1136 - Release Date: 11/17/2007 2:55 PM

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 18 16:58:33 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 15:58:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20071118125346.02bb7cb0@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <440015.54391.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- don <don at napanet.net> wrote:

> (Sorry to preach like this, but it is Sunday.)

Just don't pass around the collection plate, OK?

 :-)


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. 
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Mon Nov 19 02:42:17 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 09:42:17 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] questions about '78 MG Midget
References: <002f01c82a04$12693660$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7A6@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

The engine in a late Midget is borrowed from the Triumph Spitfire 1500,
so any carb options for that car should work (although I won't make any
guarantees about how well the manifold fits under the bonnet!).

Popular options include twin 1.5" SUs, using the manifold from a stock
UK Spitfire (UK Spits used twin SUs until the end of production, unlike
US models), and there are a couple of Weber options more familiar to US
Spitifire owners, manifolds are available from various US Triumph
specialists.  Ask a question on a Triumph forum (such as
www.totallytriumph.net) for more advice on Webers.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
  ________________________________________________________________________
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From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Nov 19 05:32:53 2007
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 06:32:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] International Drivers License
Message-ID: <48720d20711190432g656ac4b5v213b2e5af5ce1563@mail.gmail.com>

The folks pointing out that are US licenses are good in other countries are
correct. I got one for driving in Iceland and found when I got there that I
didn't need it. Check before you travel.

If you need one they can be obtained through AAA for a processing fee.

Jack

From atweditor at aol.com  Mon Nov 19 05:57:00 2007
From: atweditor at aol.com (atweditor at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 07:57:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Drivers Ed
In-Reply-To: <586861.77862.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8C9F8C2CF41DE3C-86C-2D00@WEBMAIL-MC17.sysops.aol.com>

 The actual driving part of Drivers Ed was the best, partly because you got to witness the dumb things your co-students did.? My favorite was the girl who while rounding a corner (and apparently she had some experience with a column-mounted shifter), pulled the transmission from drive into reverse.? Very interesting noises.

Jay


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: ATWEDITOR at aol.com; paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Head-on collision NOT for the faint hearted









ATWEDITOR at aol.com wrote:
 Back in the 60s when U.S. schools still offered "drivers education" before  
the insurance nazis forced them to stop, there was a handful of  
blood-on-the-hiway movies shown to instill the fear of something worse than  god.  The 
all-time classic was "Broken Glass." 
 
Not only did those films of all that carnage make me slow up a  little bit, 
it lessened my sense of shock when I went to Viet Nam a few years  later and 
saw the same kind of thing, but not from a car accident.
 

---------------------
They still offer it, Jay, and still show the same movie I saw in the '70's. Of course, gym teachers teach it... But the main teacher in my son's HS is pretty god. He is certified as a driver's ed instructor (not just classroom but car-based). I think you're referring to the schools
 having a couple of cars for on-road training. That is certainly gone.

In NJ, you cannot get a learner's permit without going through a certified driving school. Of course, the US drvier's tests are a joke, compared to the training you get in other parts of the world. The toughest part of the driving test here continues to be parallel parking.





  
  
  
Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  
'04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html






 


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Mon Nov 19 06:45:43 2007
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 08:45:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Mgs] International Drivers License
In-Reply-To: <48720d20711190432g656ac4b5v213b2e5af5ce1563@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20711190432g656ac4b5v213b2e5af5ce1563@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.4.64.0711190844180.18233@crab.rutgers.edu>

When I went to Israel, my NJ license was good enough...on the other 
hand, I met a large number of NJites who had emigrated. They made the 
bureacracy easier (not the banks, though).


Bill Saidel
BMCSNJ
74B
76B on the ropes



On Mon, 19 Nov 
2007, Jack Feldman wrote:

> The folks pointing out that are US licenses are good in other countries are
> correct. I got one for driving in Iceland and found when I got there that I
> didn't need it. Check before you travel.
>
> If you need one they can be obtained through AAA for a processing fee.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> saidel at camden.rutgers.edu
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>

Assoc. Prof. Wm. Saidel (856) 225-6336
Dept. of Biology	(856) 225-6312 FAX
Science Building 	e-Mail: saidel at crab.rutgers.edu
Rutgers University
315 Penn Street
Camden, NJ 08102-1411
USA
For more information about my science, check
       http://crab.rutgers.edu/~saidel/saidel.html

"All memory is a cat's cradle of strings and intricate connections.
'White Apples' by Jonathan Carroll

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 19 14:15:40 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:15:40 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] drivers ed
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1195498800.14185.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1195498800.14185.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0BD0A188-B341-452F-8ACB-46A4B7A18FAC@sbcglobal.net>

I chuckle when I hear all the senior guys talk about how easy it is  
to get a license.   I got my license in 72 in Illinois.  We had a  
semester of classroom instruction and then something like 15 hours  
behind the wheel with an instructor.  We would go out in groups of  
three kids.  Unfortunately, the young lady in my group never could  
get the hang of driving and I spent 15 hours in the the backseat of a  
drivers ed car cruising around in the high school parking lot!  She  
didn't pass the training.


On Nov 19, 2007, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
>  The actual driving part of Drivers Ed was the best, partly because  
> you got to witness the dumb things your co-students did.? My  
> favorite was the girl who while rounding a corner (and apparently  
> she had some experience with a column-mounted shifter), pulled the  
> transmission from drive into reverse.? Very interesting noises.
>
> Jay

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Nov 19 15:25:44 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 14:25:44 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] questions about '78 MG Midget
In-Reply-To: <002f01c82a04$12693660$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6CCF0@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Have your friend engage the clutch while you look at the front crank
pulley. Look for thrust movement of the crank pulley.

Thrust washer failure is extremely common with the 1500. Any thrust
movement will cause the rod bearings to wear our prematurely. Replacing
them and checking the thrust surfaces should be normal maintenance every
40,000 miles.

Other than that the engine is pretty solid. Poor maintenance and thrust
loads from the heavier 1500 clutch gave these engines a bad name, but if
this is addressed the engine lasts well.



Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Eric J Russell
> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 8:57 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] questions about '78 MG Midget
>
> A friend has asked me to resurrect a 1978 MG Midget that has
> sat un-used for a few years. His hope is to have a decent
> driver. It appears quite rust-free and deserves to be driven.
>
> MGA's I know. MGB's I know. But I've never owned a Midget.
> Any gotcha's to be aware of?
>
> My plan is to clean it up, change all fluids, fresh gasoline,
> adjust timing & valves, rebuild the carb and the brake system
> (IMO a car that won't start is inconvenient but a car that
> won't stop is deadly) and give it a go.
>
> It has the single S-Z carb. I'm not sure if it has an auto or
> manual choke. I'd prefer a manual choke. Can the auto be
> (easily) changed to manual?
>
> Is there a better option for carburation - similar to back-dating our
> '78 MGB to dual SU's?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From sammler at bellsouth.net  Mon Nov 19 15:32:12 2007
From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler")
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 17:32:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] International Drivers License
In-Reply-To: <48720d20711190432g656ac4b5v213b2e5af5ce1563@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20711190432g656ac4b5v213b2e5af5ce1563@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47420EEC.4080100@bellsouth.net>

I don't know how it is now but years ago it was required to leave your 
passport at the desk when checking in at some European 
hotels/pensions/etc. - but they would let you leave your international 
dl instead - much better than leaving a pp.

Pat

Jack Feldman wrote:
> The folks pointing out that are US licenses are good in other countries are
> correct. I got one for driving in Iceland and found when I got there that I
> didn't need it. Check before you travel.
>
> If you need one they can be obtained through AAA for a processing fee.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> sammler at bellsouth.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Mon Nov 19 15:28:41 2007
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 08:28:41 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] International Drivers License
In-Reply-To: <47420EEC.4080100@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <004901c82afb$8a6ff4d0$1701a8c0@ghs.local>

AS a frequent traveller around the world I can tell you that in many
countries you are required to leave your passport with reception at the
hotel for a minimum of a couple of hours.  (Time varies with each place).
In these countries Hoteliers are required to register all foreigners with
the authorities within a specified time of check-in.  

Also in some countries Hoteliers will request your passport so that they can
be sure you'll not do a runner without paying. 

Some countries require international Driver's Permits, some don't.  I've
never needed one in Europe or the USA, but then I am using an Australian
Drivers Licence.  I dare say that if I proffered an Uzbekistanian Licence at
the Hertz counter things might be different.

For any of you planning to venture Down-Under be sure to get yourself an
International Driver's Licence.  Apparently its now a requirement here in
order to rent a car.

Cheers - Murray Arundell
Brisbane Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pat
Harris - "sammler"
Sent: Tuesday, 20 November 2007 8:32 am
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] International Drivers License

I don't know how it is now but years ago it was required to leave your 
passport at the desk when checking in at some European 
hotels/pensions/etc. - but they would let you leave your international 
dl instead - much better than leaving a pp.

Pat

Jack Feldman wrote:
> The folks pointing out that are US licenses are good in other countries
are
> correct. I got one for driving in Iceland and found when I got there that
I
> didn't need it. Check before you travel.
>
> If you need one they can be obtained through AAA for a processing fee.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> sammler at bellsouth.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
_______________________________________________
arundell at ghs.com.au

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Mon Nov 19 15:38:17 2007
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 22:38:17 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] International Drivers License
Message-ID: <761LkswlR6362S27.1195511897@cmsweb27.cms.usa.net>

I've twice bothered to get an international drivers license in the US for
periods living abroad. Each time I went to the AAA (Automobile Association)
to
do so, and it was essentially a certified para-document to be used alongside
my US drivers license restating the relevant information. As I recall, box 1
was my full legal name, box 2 was my date of birth, box 3 was the official
license number of my US state license, box 4 and 5 issue and expiry date,
etc.
The rest of the passport size document was text to the effect that box 1 was
my full legal name, box 2 was my date of birth, box 3 was the official
license
number of my US state license, box 4 and 5 issue and expiry date, etc., but
in
about 9 languages.

I can see that it would be useful even when not required, if the official who
needed your documentation did not read American.

Only problem I've ever had without one is with a UK car-hire company who
would
only consider my US state driver's license as equivalent to a UK "automatic
only" license. They wanted me to pay the rate for an Omega (the automatic
vehicle they had available) when I had reserved a Corsa.

Douglas ('70 BGT)

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon Nov 19 16:02:44 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 11:02:44 -1200
Subject: [Mgs] questions about '78 MG Midget
Message-ID: <47421614.ee.11aaa.1794001090@ml2.myemail.com>

A few have mentioned the thrust washer issue.

Do the thrust washers wear out & fail or fall out? 

Can I assume that dropping the oil sump and removing a main
cap is the way to check/fix? And that this is possible
without removing the engine? Are there various thickness of
these washers or is it as simple as buying a new set (one
size fits all) and replacing?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


> Have your friend engage the clutch while you look at the
> front crank pulley. Look for thrust movement of the crank
> pulley. 
> 
> Thrust washer failure is extremely common with the 1500.
> Any thrust movement will cause the rod bearings to wear
> our prematurely. Replacing them and checking the thrust
> surfaces should be normal maintenance every 40,000 miles. 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----

> > A friend has asked me to resurrect a 1978 MG Midget that
> > has  sat un-used for a few years. 

> > Eric Russell
Login from home, work, school.  Anywhere!

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Nov 19 16:35:35 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 17:35:35 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 motorcycle jump practice
Message-ID: <017201c82b04$e4e537f0$aeafa7d0$@com>

Larry's been rehearsing his SOS jump..

 

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=89t3rxu&s=1

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From jkk at adams.net  Mon Nov 19 17:15:30 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:15:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 motorcycle jump practice
References: <017201c82b04$e4e537f0$aeafa7d0$@com>
Message-ID: <000401c82b0a$75ecf530$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Wow, he's getting pretty good, that looks like a one-handed Superman! 
roflmao

Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" 

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Nov 19 17:30:20 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:30:20 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] questions about '78 MG Midget
In-Reply-To: <47421614.ee.11aaa.1794001090@ml2.myemail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6CD69@kb1.mossmotors.com>

In the worst case, they fall out. After spinning around and destroying
their locations on the block.

Thrust washers are available in oversizes if necessary. I've not done a
thrust washer change with the block in situ, but I'm pretty sure that it
is straight forward. The rear main cap has to come off, then the washer
is rotated around the crank. The washers don't have locating tabs.


Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: ejrussell at mebtel.net [mailto:ejrussell at mebtel.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:03 PM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Mgs] questions about '78 MG Midget
>
> A few have mentioned the thrust washer issue.
>
> Do the thrust washers wear out & fail or fall out?
>
> Can I assume that dropping the oil sump and removing a main
> cap is the way to check/fix? And that this is possible
> without removing the engine? Are there various thickness of
> these washers or is it as simple as buying a new set (one
> size fits all) and replacing?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
>
> > Have your friend engage the clutch while you look at the
> front crank
> > pulley. Look for thrust movement of the crank pulley.
> >
> > Thrust washer failure is extremely common with the 1500.
> > Any thrust movement will cause the rod bearings to wear our
> > prematurely. Replacing them and checking the thrust
> surfaces should be
> > normal maintenance every 40,000 miles.
> >
> > Kelvin Dodd

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 19 17:59:53 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:59:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 motorcycle jump practice
References: <017201c82b04$e4e537f0$aeafa7d0$@com>
Message-ID: <07e401c82b10$aa158fb0$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>


Larry's been rehearsing his SOS jump..


http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=89t3rxu&s=1



Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O
=========================

LOL.  That look of terror on my face is because I am headed toward the door 
for the cold storage side of the shop -- which is 15 feet from the landing 
point -- and the door is closing!!


LAD

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Nov 19 18:08:47 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 19:08:47 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 motorcycle jump practice
In-Reply-To: <07e401c82b10$aa158fb0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <017201c82b04$e4e537f0$aeafa7d0$@com>
	<07e401c82b10$aa158fb0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <002501c82b11$e9f58800$bde09800$@com>

And obviously the take off ramp was WAY back across the street in the corn
field. Nice hang time.

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Daniels [mailto:ladaniels at sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 7:00 PM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson; 'net Spridgets'; mgs at autox.team.net;
team-thicko at autox.team.net; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07 motorcycle jump practice


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>


Larry's been rehearsing his SOS jump..


http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=89t3rxu&s=1



Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O
=========================

LOL.  That look of terror on my face is because I am headed toward the door 
for the cold storage side of the shop -- which is 15 feet from the landing 
point -- and the door is closing!!


LAD

From ptegler at cablespeed.com  Tue Nov 20 08:46:59 2007
From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 10:46:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 motorcycle jump practice
References: <017201c82b04$e4e537f0$aeafa7d0$@com><07e401c82b10$aa158fb0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<002501c82b11$e9f58800$bde09800$@com>
Message-ID: <009601c82b8c$99d5ca80$0201a8c0@dragonlair>

????  it's a Photoshop pic folks....  look closely at the spooked wheels.
It wasn't until  W.S.T. just mentioned the ramp...that I went back and 
looked closely at the bike rather than just the row of cars.
:-(

Paul Tegler
ptegler at cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
To: "'Larry Daniels'" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>; "'net Spridgets'" 
<spridgets at autox.team.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>; 
<team-thicko at autox.team.net>; "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 motorcycle jump practice


> And obviously the take off ramp was WAY back across the street in the corn
> field. Nice hang time.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Daniels [mailto:ladaniels at sbcglobal.net]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Nov 19 21:24:41 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 22:24:41 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 the not so good jump
Message-ID: <001401c82b2d$47654140$d62fc3c0$@com>

Sometimes Larry doesn't get it right.

 

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=720egbk&s=1

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 20 05:22:46 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 06:22:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 the not so good jump
References: <001401c82b2d$47654140$d62fc3c0$@com>
Message-ID: <085d01c82b70$0faf3010$6401a8c0@Larry>

Just like with his race car, you only get a few laps in a WST prepared 
machine before it falls apart.

LAD


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
To: "'net Spridgets'" <spridgets at autox.team.net>; 
<team-thicko at autox.team.net>; "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>; 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:24 PM
Subject: SOS '07 the not so good jump


Sometimes Larry doesn't get it right.



http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=720egbk&s=1





Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of 
image001.png]

///  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net  or try
///  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/team-thicko
///  Send list postings to team-thicko at autox.team.net
///  Edit your replies!  If they include this trailer, they will NOT be 
sent.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Tue Nov 20 06:40:08 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 07:40:08 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 directions
Message-ID: <006c01c82b7a$e15815f0$a40841d0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Looks like the weather will be cold and dry Fri. & Sat. 

 

Here's how to get here. We're on the NW corner of Hass & Lincoln, in Van
Dyne, WI.

 

>From the south, Rt. 41 north, past Fond du Lac. At the 106 exit County N,
exit right, turn right (east). Immediately left (north) on Hass Rd. Go 2
miles north to Hass & Lincoln. 

 

>From the north, Rt. 41 south, past Oskosh, to the 113 exit (also County N,
but a different county). Exit to the right. Turn left on N (go over 41)
about a mile to Old Knapp road. Right on Old Knapp (south). Go 4 miles south
on Old Knapp. At Lone Elm road, the road jogs a little, and become Hass
Road. Proceed to N9350 (about another mile).

 

See ya soon.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 20 07:07:52 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 08:07:52 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Poetic Justice
Message-ID: <088301c82b7e$be4ab5a0$6401a8c0@Larry>

http://tinyurl.com/2glu4s

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Nov 20 08:01:42 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 15:01:42 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Production Data
Message-ID: <00a901c82b86$d97ab9d0$0200a8c0@Three>

Following the thread on how many North American MGBs had overdrive I have 
the opportunity to go through the BMIHT records and count them!

*If* I take it up it occurs to me that there may be other aspects that 
aren't covered by Clausager that I could also look at. Any suggestions?

PaulH. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Nov 20 08:07:56 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 15:07:56 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Poetic Justice
References: <088301c82b7e$be4ab5a0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <00bc01c82b88$f419b050$0200a8c0@Three>

Give the alligator a Public Service medal, I say.

----- Original Message ----- 

> http://tinyurl.com/2glu4s

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Nov 20 13:55:01 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 21:55:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] International Drivers License
References: <004901c82afb$8a6ff4d0$1701a8c0@ghs.local>
Message-ID: <006d01c82bb7$9ea8c7d0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

My advise is to have the hotel reception desk copy your ID while you are 
waiting.
In Europe you are obliged to show your ID at any moment in most countries.
I would not leave my ID at any hotel reception desk whatsoever.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Murray Arundell" <arundell at ghs.com.au>
To: "'Pat Harris - "sammler"'" <sammler at bellsouth.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] International Drivers License


> AS a frequent traveller around the world I can tell you that in many
> countries you are required to leave your passport with reception at the
> hotel for a minimum of a couple of hours.  (Time varies with each place).
> In these countries Hoteliers are required to register all foreigners with
> the authorities within a specified time of check-in.
>
> Also in some countries Hoteliers will request your passport so that they 
> can
> be sure you'll not do a runner without paying.
>
> Some countries require international Driver's Permits, some don't.  I've
> never needed one in Europe or the USA, but then I am using an Australian
> Drivers Licence.  I dare say that if I proffered an Uzbekistanian Licence 
> at
> the Hertz counter things might be different.
>
> For any of you planning to venture Down-Under be sure to get yourself an
> International Driver's Licence.  Apparently its now a requirement here in
> order to rent a car.
>
> Cheers - Murray Arundell
> Brisbane Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pat
> Harris - "sammler"
> Sent: Tuesday, 20 November 2007 8:32 am
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] International Drivers License
>
> I don't know how it is now but years ago it was required to leave your
> passport at the desk when checking in at some European
> hotels/pensions/etc. - but they would let you leave your international
> dl instead - much better than leaving a pp.
>
> Pat
>
> Jack Feldman wrote:
>> The folks pointing out that are US licenses are good in other countries
> are
>> correct. I got one for driving in Iceland and found when I got there that
> I
>> didn't need it. Check before you travel.
>>
>> If you need one they can be obtained through AAA for a processing fee.
>>
>> Jack

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Tue Nov 20 15:36:01 2007
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (arundell at ghs.com.au)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:36:01 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] International Drivers License
Message-ID: <PB2kd7NJg0bY.LT5TJ5v4@mail.bigpond.com>

Normally this is what I do. However in some countries it must be available for
inspection by the Police up to twelve hours after check-in. I also carry
multiple colour copies of my passport which satisfies most operators.

- original message -
Subject:	Re: [Mgs] International Drivers License
From:	"Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
Date:		20:11:2007 20:55

My advise is to have the hotel reception desk copy your ID while you are
waiting.
In Europe you are obliged to show your ID at any moment in most countries.
I would not leave my ID at any hotel reception desk whatsoever.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray Arundell" <arundell at ghs.com.au>
To: "'Pat Harris - "sammler"'" <sammler at bellsouth.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] International Drivers License


> AS a frequent traveller around the world I can tell you that in many
> countries you are required to leave your passport with reception at the
> hotel for a minimum of a couple of hours.  (Time varies with each place).
> In these countries Hoteliers are required to register all foreigners with
> the authorities within a specified time of check-in.
>
> Also in some countries Hoteliers will request your passport so that they
> can
> be sure you'll not do a runner without paying.
>
> Some countries require international Driver's Permits, some don't.  I've
> never needed one in Europe or the USA, but then I am using an Australian
> Drivers Licence.  I dare say that if I proffered an Uzbekistanian Licence
> at
> the Hertz counter things might be different.
>
> For any of you planning to venture Down-Under be sure to get yourself an
> International Driver's Licence.  Apparently its now a requirement here in
> order to rent a car.
>
> Cheers - Murray Arundell
> Brisbane Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+arundell=ghs.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pat
> Harris - "sammler"
> Sent: Tuesday, 20 November 2007 8:32 am
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] International Drivers License
>
> I don't know how it is now but years ago it was required to leave your
> passport at the desk when checking in at some European
> hotels/pensions/etc. - but they would let you leave your international
> dl instead - much better than leaving a pp.
>
> Pat
>
> Jack Feldman wrote:
>> The folks pointing out that are US licenses are good in other countries
> are
>> correct. I got one for driving in Iceland and found when I got there that
> I
>> didn't need it. Check before you travel.
>>
>> If you need one they can be obtained through AAA for a processing fee.
>>
>> Jack

From John.Hed at faa.gov  Tue Nov 20 16:25:11 2007
From: John.Hed at faa.gov (John.Hed at faa.gov)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 15:25:11 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave.  Back in on Monday 11/26
Message-ID: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov>

I will be out of the office starting  11/20/2007 and will not return until
11/26/2007.

I am out on leave until 11/26.  If emergency, call my mobile:  253-334-6779

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Nov 20 16:52:18 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 18:52:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26
In-Reply-To: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov>
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com>

I will alert the media.
R

On Nov 20, 2007 6:25 PM, <John.Hed at faa.gov> wrote:

> I will be out of the office starting  11/20/2007 and will not return until
> 11/26/2007.
>
> I am out on leave until 11/26.  If emergency, call my mobile:
>  253-334-6779
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 20 17:00:42 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 18:00:42 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov>
	<a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local>

let's all call his mobile . . .

>
>> I will be out of the office starting  11/20/2007 and will not return 
>> until
>> 11/26/2007.
>>
>> I am out on leave until 11/26.  If emergency, call my mobile:
>>  253-334-6779 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Nov 20 17:45:04 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:45:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26
In-Reply-To: <000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local>
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov>
	<a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com>
	<000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10711201645s5ed4a651u3c3a1a3565cf76c5@mail.gmail.com>

Better yet, every body call his cell and ask for Cecil.  On the 26th Oliver,
you then call and putting on the best fake British accent you can manage
say:  This is Cecil Kimber, have I had any calls?

On Nov 20, 2007 7:00 PM, Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> let's all call his mobile . . .
>
> >
> >> I will be out of the office starting  11/20/2007 and will not return
> >> until
> >> 11/26/2007.
> >>
> >> I am out on leave until 11/26.  If emergency, call my mobile:
> >>  253-334-6779
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Tue Nov 20 18:10:45 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:10:45 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 who's watchin' who?
Message-ID: <002301c82bdb$5a5c74e0$0f155ea0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

So far, 175 folks have added <floundervision> to their Yahoo messenger
friends list.

 

We're likely to go "on air" around 10AM each morning, although SOS guests
should plan on arriving around 9AM. That will give us an hour to get
everyone lined up on our various projects, and get the cam up and running.

 

Log into your Yahoo Messenger account, and you'll receive an invitation to
join a conference. Have your speakers turned on.  Once in the Floundervision
conference, you can type questions, comments, and smartassed remarks that
all in conference can read and reply to. If you have a mic, you can vocalize
those questions, comments, and smartassed remarks. We, the folks in the
shop, can hear you. We also will have a mic, so we can respond.

 

PLEASE do not ask whomever is moderating the broadcast on our end (sometimes
me, sometimes the occasional passerby) to join your conference, view your
conference, or have a private chat. 

 

PLEASE make sure you have the latest iteration of Yahoo Messenger. Get it at
http://messenger.yahoo.com/webmessengerpromo.php. Add "floundervision" to
your friends list.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From mgs at bonacker.us  Tue Nov 20 18:36:39 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:36:39 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Posts not getting through
Message-ID: <001a01c82bde$f7aad040$384f744b@abyssinian>

The last two messages I sent didn't make it through to the list.

So if anyone is interested in Mark Evans' UK doings, you'll have to email me
directly so I can respond.

Scott Bonacker

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Nov 20 18:39:54 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 19:39:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov><a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com><000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local>
	<a3b984e10711201645s5ed4a651u3c3a1a3565cf76c5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0b7e01c82bdf$6af26130$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Better yet, every body call his cell and ask for Cecil.  On the 26th
Oliver,
you then call and putting on the best fake British accent you can manage
say:  This is Cecil Kimber, have I had any calls?>>

Rick, whilst YOUR idea does top Oliver's (which IS very good), The List DOES
have a Resident Brit, right Paul???

<G>

Ed

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 20 21:48:53 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 20:48:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave.  Back in on Monday 11/26
In-Reply-To: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <994750.60796.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- John.Hed at faa.gov wrote:

> I will be out of the office starting  11/20/2007 and will not
> return until
> 11/26/2007.

Certainly another poor sap using Microsoft mail, which,
unlike every other mail reader known to man, is unable
to distinguish between "bulk" (mailing list) and personal
email in its vacation function.  Jeez, Gates, get with
1980s technology, would ya'?

I'll refrain from passing judgement on the double
toilet-synonym nature of the UID.  :-)




David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better pen pal. 
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.  http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Nov 21 01:51:48 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:51:48 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Posts not getting through
References: <001a01c82bde$f7aad040$384f744b@abyssinian>
Message-ID: <0c8601c82c1c$835855d0$0200a8c0@Three>

Well this one did, so how about trying again?

----- Original Message ----- 
> The last two messages I sent didn't make it through to the list.
>
> So if anyone is interested in Mark Evans' UK doings, you'll have to email 
> me
> directly so I can respond.

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Wed Nov 21 02:04:00 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 09:04:00 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov><a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com><000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local><a3b984e10711201645s5ed4a651u3c3a1a3565cf76c5@mail.gmail.com>
	<0b7e01c82bdf$6af26130$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7AE@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

"...The List DOES have a Resident Brit, right Paul???..."

More than just the one!


Richard & Sammy (in Britain)
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19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov 21 05:02:17 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:02:17 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 fine dining
Message-ID: <003601c82c36$5ea09ee0$1be1dca0$@com>

Hey yall,



Keeping with the tradition of fine dining at SOS, this years participants
will be feasting on



Smoked salmon from Port Chatham, WA, sent by Bill Gilroy (thanks).



Charcoal grilled pork loin, prepared in the Thicko trackside tradition,
served on onion rolls.



Swedish pancakes



Cheese curds



Friday night, well experience local fine dining (ok, its a diner)in
Rosendale. They have one of the best damn banana crhme pies youll ever
have.



Dave Woerpel, Larry Daniels, Jeff Porassik are bringing along contributions.
Are you?







Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Nov 21 08:26:05 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:26:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave.  Back in on Monday 11/26
In-Reply-To: <994750.60796.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov>
	<994750.60796.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12D9F@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

This might be a valid complaint if it came from someone using an
equivalent (real) email program. But from a yahoo email user, using a
webmail advertising based program? You have got to be kidding.

Which is worse - a one time out of office message (it does not repeat
after the first one goes out)? Or the much longer mandatory advertising
trailer that we have to get with EVERY email sent by a yahoo user (see
below, "Be a better penpal...").

As a computer system administrator, I see yahoo email as one of the
biggest problems with email in today's Internet. It's the favorite email
for Nigerian scams and other types of marketing email. Criticize
Microsoft mail all you like but at least its providing an overall
beneficial purpose even if it may not be perfect in all its
functionality. Or if you actually use real email (not this lame "free"
but advertiser controlled web email), you are free to try and use other
email programs like Eudora or Thunderbird to find one that best matches
your preferences. Read and send email without advertisements.



-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 9:49 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26

--- John.Hed at faa.gov wrote:

> I will be out of the office starting  11/20/2007 and will not
> return until
> 11/26/2007.

Certainly another poor sap using Microsoft mail, which,
unlike every other mail reader known to man, is unable
to distinguish between "bulk" (mailing list) and personal
email in its vacation function.  Jeez, Gates, get with
1980s technology, would ya'?

I'll refrain from passing judgement on the double
toilet-synonym nature of the UID.  :-)




David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
____________
Be a better pen pal.
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.
http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/
_______________________________________________

From sammler at bellsouth.net  Wed Nov 21 11:22:24 2007
From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler")
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 13:22:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Torques specification - Moss MiniLite replica for MGA
Message-ID: <47447760.2000704@bellsouth.net>

What is the torque specification for the lug nuts for the Moss MiniLite
replica wheels?  Is it the same (60 - 62.5 ft.-lbs.) as that for the
original road wheels?

Thanks,
Pat

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Nov 21 11:39:46 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 10:39:46 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Torques specification - Moss MiniLite replica for MGA
In-Reply-To: <47447760.2000704@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CF6D051@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Pat:

Stick to the original torque specification.




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Pat Harris - "sammler"
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 10:22 AM
> To: MG mailing list - autox
> Subject: [Mgs] Torques specification - Moss MiniLite replica for MGA
>
> What is the torque specification for the lug nuts for the
> Moss MiniLite replica wheels?  Is it the same (60 - 62.5
> ft.-lbs.) as that for the original road wheels?
>
> Thanks,
> Pat

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Nov 21 14:41:06 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 15:41:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Test broadcast
Message-ID: <008501c82c87$3da61200$b8f23600$@com>

Camera and microphone is on NOW!

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Nov 21 18:04:08 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 19:04:08 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov><a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com><000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local><a3b984e10711201645s5ed4a651u3c3a1a3565cf76c5@mail.gmail.com>
	<0b7e01c82bdf$6af26130$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7AE@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <05c801c82ca3$96329d50$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<More than just the one! >>

I    APOLOGIZE    Richard!!!

I forgot !!!  And I should NOT have since My wife's '73 B is Black Tulip with
Ocher (ugh).!!!

Ed
(and Murial the Black Tulip '73 MGB wearing STD IL plates    CINS73    )

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov 22 02:13:08 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 09:13:08 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov><a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com><000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local><a3b984e10711201645s5ed4a651u3c3a1a3565cf76c5@mail.gmail.com><0b7e01c82bdf$6af26130$6601a8c0@actualshop><76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7AE@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
	<05c801c82ca3$96329d50$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <018d01c82ce9$e4c05070$0200a8c0@Three>

I hadn't got the courage to refit an ochre interior to my Black Tulip 
roadster (it came to me with all sorts) so used black throughout, and very 
pleased I did so.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... My wife's '73 B is Black Tulip with
> Ocher (ugh).!!!

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Thu Nov 22 02:40:40 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 09:40:40 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov><a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com><000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local><a3b984e10711201645s5ed4a651u3c3a1a3565cf76c5@mail.gmail.com><0b7e01c82bdf$6af26130$6601a8c0@actualshop><76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7AE@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com><05c801c82ca3$96329d50$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<018d01c82ce9$e4c05070$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7B0@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Hey!  I like my ochre!!! ;-)

Well, I'd like it better if it didn't look so worn and stained...  I
guess one advantage of black is that it doesn't stain.  Black's OK in a
roadster, maybe, but I'm happier having a lighter shade in an enclosed
car.

What I've never worked out is why I have vinyl front seats and velour
back seats.  My '73 GT should be velour throughout, and Sammy MkI was.
Either a PO has replaced the seats with ones from a roadster, or
re-covered them in vinyl, sticking to ochre but with the wrong material,
or the factory was running short of velour seats on the day Sammy was
built...


Richard & Sammy (Black Tulip with Ochre, and proud of it!)
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by
return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use
or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any
delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not
guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
the UK Companies Act 1985;
PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water
Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
7770 19)
PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Nov 22 06:57:13 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 07:57:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 25.5 hours away but who's counting?
Message-ID: <005f01c82d0f$973c9b30$c5b5d190$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

We had a success test of Floundervision via Yahoo Messenger late yesterday
afternoon. 

 

We'll have the camera up later today, and leave it on for most of the day. 

 

Fri & Sat. the cam will be up at 9AM CST to 4PM. We hope you can tune in.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From lmacy at phillymgclub.com  Thu Nov 22 08:33:56 2007
From: lmacy at phillymgclub.com (Larry Macy)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 10:33:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 25.5 hours away but who's counting?
In-Reply-To: <005f01c82d0f$973c9b30$c5b5d190$@com>
References: <005f01c82d0f$973c9b30$c5b5d190$@com>
Message-ID: <675E9651-E54D-4BCD-8290-1D49C3B5D793@phillymgclub.com>

I just checked my account and I still have the ol' Floundervision  
listed. I will try to drop by during the weekend.

Larry

On Nov 22, 2007, at 8:57 AM, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:

> Hey y'all,
>
>
>
> We had a success test of Floundervision via Yahoo Messenger late  
> yesterday
> afternoon.
>
>
>
> We'll have the camera up later today, and leave it on for most of  
> the day.
>
>
>
> Fri & Sat. the cam will be up at 9AM CST to 4PM. We hope you can  
> tune in.
>
>
>
>
>
> Wm. Severin Thompson
>
> ~iii<O
>
>
>
> <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com
>
> <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a  
> name of image001.png]
> _______________________________________________
> lmacy at phillymgclub.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets

-- 

Larry Macy
78 Midget

Keep your top down and your chin up.

Declare your Independence, Bring your MG to MG 2008
Valley Forge, PA June 26-29, 2008
http://mg2008.com

Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
lmacy at phillymgclub.com
Board Member at Large
Philadelphia MG Club



"I think the problem, to be quite honest with you, is that you've  
never actually known what the question is." - Douglas Adams


-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Nov 22 08:53:13 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 09:53:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 remote connection instruction
Message-ID: <008501c82d1f$cc2f7f00$648e7d00$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Please pay close attention to this, as when the SOS madness breaks out
tomorrow in the shop, there's little time to play "tech support" remotely.

 

When the camera is on, it will be apparent in the message next to the
"floundervision" name in your Yahoo Messenger friends list. You'll see the
camera icon and some sort of smartass caption.

 

Clicking on it will allow you to view the camera.

 

However, to hear what's going on, to type to us and the rest of the
viewers... you'll have to enter the conference. You must be invited to the
conference. Be patient. we'll get to you.

 

Here's a list of "do's and don'ts". 

 

1.       Please have the latest version of Yahoo Messenger. If you haven't
used it since SOS '06, you need to upgrade. Get it at <
http://messenger.yahoo.com/webmessengerpromo.php>

2.       Don't ask us to view your camera. We're busy saving or mercy
killing Spridgets and have little time to watch you sittin' by your desk
with no pants on.

3.       Do have your speakers or headphones turned on and turned up,
otherwise you won't hear squat. I suggest running the "set up assistant" in
the "calling and audio" section of the "preferences".

4.       Do not try to initiate "offline" messages or calls. Myself, or
anyone else dumb enough to moderate the broadcast will be busier than a one
legged man in an ass kicking contest.

5.       If you have a microphone, you can speak to all in the conference,
as we in the shop can hear you too. We'll also have a mic, so be prepared
for rebuttal.

6.       Any questions you can't figure out, call the shop at (920)
266-0252.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Nov 22 09:00:37 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 09:00:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)
In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7B0@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12DB2@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I had to look up this ochre color as I think that's what I have, kind of
a tannish type color. Its ochre or something similar though. It
complements the black tulip on my 72B quite well. And although the seats
can still get hot in the summer when the sun shines on them, they are
still not anywhere as hot as the black ones would get (I always had to
cover the seat bottom with a towel on my previous B). The interior came
with the car and was in good shape but I had the car totally repainted
from its previous orange color.

David Councill
67 BGT (BRG)
72 B (black tulip)

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 2:41 AM
To: Paul Hunt; shop at justbrits.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)

Hey!  I like my ochre!!! ;-)

Well, I'd like it better if it didn't look so worn and stained...  I
guess one advantage of black is that it doesn't stain.  Black's OK in a
roadster, maybe, but I'm happier having a lighter shade in an enclosed
car.

What I've never worked out is why I have vinyl front seats and velour
back seats.  My '73 GT should be velour throughout, and Sammy MkI was.
Either a PO has replaced the seats with ones from a roadster, or
re-covered them in vinyl, sticking to ochre but with the wrong material,
or the factory was running short of velour seats on the day Sammy was
built...


Richard & Sammy (Black Tulip with Ochre, and proud of it!)

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 22 09:04:14 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 08:04:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12DB2@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <802975.59608.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I like the Ochre cloth interior in my 73 GT. It is too bad they do niot make it anymore (or at least easy to find. I also like the navy cloth. Is anyone making that? The car is a blank canvas for and is a fun daily driver so I can do anything with it. I am staying with cloth for comfort.
  Carl French

"Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:
  I had to look up this ochre color as I think that's what I have, kind of
a tannish type color. Its ochre or something similar though. It
complements the black tulip on my 72B quite well. And although the seats
can still get hot in the summer when the sun shines on them, they are
still not anywhere as hot as the black ones would get (I always had to
cover the seat bottom with a towel on my previous B). The interior came
with the car and was in good shape but I had the car totally repainted
from its previous orange color.

David Councill
67 BGT (BRG)
72 B (black tulip)

       
---------------------------------
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Nov 22 09:07:23 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 10:07:23 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 phone number correction
Message-ID: <000601c82d21$c67d72e0$537858a0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I incorrectly stated the number to the "Larry Line" at the shop(I'm an
idiot. this is news?).

 

The correct number for the Thicko shop is (920) 966-0252. Call us (tomorrow)
if you're having trouble connecting to the broadcast, or need directions to
the Dream Farm.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov 22 09:20:25 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 16:20:25 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)
References: <OF221C0289.01AC6537-ON88257399.0080A615-88257399.0080A615@faa.gov><a3b984e10711201552m44fb0fe6rec136becb0b1c0b3@mail.gmail.com><000501c82bd1$90805d70$800101df@garage.local><a3b984e10711201645s5ed4a651u3c3a1a3565cf76c5@mail.gmail.com><0b7e01c82bdf$6af26130$6601a8c0@actualshop><76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7AE@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com><05c801c82ca3$96329d50$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<018d01c82ce9$e4c05070$0200a8c0@Three>
	<76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7B0@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <000401c82d24$ba937e40$0200a8c0@Three>

As you say the GT should be woven fabric throughout and the roadster 
textured vinyl, presumably to cope with the occasional downpour when 
uncovered.  I fitted GT covers to my roadster for the comfort factor - 
avoiding burns to bare legs in hot weather.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
What I've never worked out is why I have vinyl front seats and velour
back seats. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Nov 22 09:27:23 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 16:27:23 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12DB2@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <000501c82d24$bab006f0$0200a8c0@Three>

It's more like yellow, it's been described as 'baby poo yellow', lighter 
than what I would call 'tan'.  Autumn leaf is like a mid-brown i.e. darker 
than tan.  There was also beige, paler than the others.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I had to look up this ochre color as I think that's what I have, kind of
> a tannish type color. 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 22 09:57:03 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 08:57:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] John Hed is on leave.  Back in on Monday 11/26
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12D9F@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <450739.49328.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:

> This might be a valid complaint if it came from someone using an
> equivalent (real) email program. But from a yahoo email user, using
> a
> webmail advertising based program? You have got to be kidding.

Hi, David -

Hardly.  The ads are unobtrusive, and they only effect me.
I no longer have the time to administer my own mail server,
and don't want to pay my ISP for a static IP address (I can
rent web server time from Go Daddy for a fraction of the
cost) so this serves my purpose completely, and as annoying
as a graphical-interface mail reader can be, it's a hell of
a lot less annoying that Microsoft Outhouse.  It's Yahoo
and Outlook that are equivalent, not Outlook and sendmail.

> Which is worse - a one time out of office message (it does not
> repeat
> after the first one goes out)? Or the much longer mandatory
> advertising
> trailer that we have to get with EVERY email sent by a yahoo user
> (see below, "Be a better penpal...").


You don't have to scroll that far down, do you?


> As a computer system administrator, I see yahoo email as one of the
> biggest problems with email in today's Internet. It's the favorite
> email
> for Nigerian scams and other types of marketing email. Criticize
> Microsoft mail all you like but at least its providing an overall
> beneficial purpose even if it may not be perfect in all its
> functionality.

An "overall beneficial purpose"?!?  Microsoft is responsible for
destroying email as we knew it!  Rick text, html, embedded
graphics, broken headers; like anything else Microsoft
touches, they've taken a useful medium of communication
and turned it into an annoyance.  I worked for four
organizations as they transitioned from open email systems
to Outlook.  Three had used unix-based mail servers, one
used an OS/390 server.  In every instance, the process took
longer, had more problems, and was far more expensive that
the advocates had ever imagined.  Didn't surprise me even
the first time.

I'm a computer systems administrator and systems architect
myself.  I've run Unix data centers for Fortune 500 companies
and federal government service providers for 20 years.  I
remember when email was efficient and easy to use.  Plain
text, read with elm or pine, transmitted by uucp or TCP/IP,
quick and simple.  Microsoft changed that.  Don't blame me
for that.  I fought against it for 10 years.  Now we're
stuck with this mess.  But sorry, it's not *my* fault
anymore than the death of MG is Syd Enever's.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. 
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Thu Nov 22 10:21:23 2007
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 12:21:23 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)
Message-ID: <d4e.18b46414.34771493@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/22/2007 8:30:11 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:
It's more like yellow, it's been  described as 'baby poo yellow', lighter 
than what I would call 'tan'.   Autumn leaf is like a mid-brown i.e. darker 
than tan.  There was also  beige, paler than the others.
PaulH.
 
Whadda 'bout Taupe...Plus, it's a great way to segue into my wishing that  
everyone's able to enjoy a very.... 
"HAPPY THANKSGIVING!"   Especially those who live where the  Pilgrims came 
from
Albert Escalante -CCBCC West Coast



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

From mgs at bonacker.us  Thu Nov 22 12:30:47 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 19:30:47 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
Message-ID: <bccbb3542cb94884a472af33c73b4f38@540cf5eb0c63493ba5647f699bb153cd>

I'm in the process of converting the single ZS to dual HIF4's on my '77 MGB,
and when I removed the intake and exhaust components I saw that the motor
mount was cracked. I've got new mounts now, and I am puzzling how to relieve
the weight of the motor. Some descriptions describe raising the motor from
below, and others describe lifting it from above. The former option would
work
better than the latter for me as I don't have an overhead lift.

I
shouldn't
lift on the oil pan, but how about putting blocking under the front edge of
the oil pan or the belt pulley?

Any experienced suggestion would be
appreciated ...

Scott

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Nov 22 12:33:49 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 14:33:49 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
Message-ID: <d58.19a7af02.3477339d@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/22/2007 11:27:37 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
mgs at bonacker.us writes:

I
shouldn't
lift on the oil pan, but how about putting blocking  under the front edge of
the oil pan or the belt  pulley?



 
____________________________________


You can safely jack under the oil pan as long as you use a heavy (at least  
3/4" ply) piece of wood that goes all the way across the bottom - AND you make  
sure you aren't trying to jack up an engine that is still attached when you 
do  it.
 
Best is of course to use an overhead engine hoist to take the weight. A  
chain attached to a bolt in the front exhaust manifold bolt hole and at the  other 
end to the ear for the alternator will work.
 
Personally, I'd opt for the wood under the pan method - if you are careful,  
it works very well. 
 
Bill S.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Nov 23 01:55:54 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 08:55:54 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Ochre (was John Hed is on leave. Back in on Monday 11/26)
References: <d4e.18b46414.34771493@aol.com>
Message-ID: <09e501c82db0$e2ba18c0$0200a8c0@Three>

Whadda 'bout Taupe (a euphemism for 'mud')?  BL did use Rose Taupe on some 
vehicles in the 70s, but not the MGB.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Whadda 'bout Taupe... 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Nov 23 01:57:52 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 08:57:52 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
References: <bccbb3542cb94884a472af33c73b4f38@540cf5eb0c63493ba5647f699bb153cd>
Message-ID: <09e601c82db0$e2ec2540$0200a8c0@Three>

Just put a lump of timber under the sum to spread the load and jack there. 
I've changed my V8 mounts like that twice now.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... I am puzzling how to relieve
> the weight of the motor. Some descriptions describe raising the motor from
> below ... 

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov 23 05:24:24 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 06:24:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 the time is now
Message-ID: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Well, a couple months of preparation starts to pay off today with the
kickoff of SOS '07. In an hour or two, folks will start arriving, some from
quite a great distance. 

 

We'll break into teams, each assigned to a different task. One group will be
pulling springs out of the rear of Bud Pazur's Mr. White Bugeye. Another
group will be helping Kris Larsen do final assembly of his latest racecar
"Stapuff". I'd like to thank Kris for dropping off his trailer yesterday,
right in front of the shop door. Apparently Kris believes the Thicko shop
has everything. everything including a teleporter from Star Trek that
allowed me to dematerialize and rematerialize the camper and boat I needed
to roll out of the shop yesterday.

 

We'll probably have 2 teams doing deconstruction of the 7 Spridgets that
will become organ donors. The carcasses will resemble what's left of
yesterday's turkey after the bones have been picked clean, and will be
strapped to a trailer and towed over to the local scrap yard, where they'll
be crushed and turned into Chinese made bench vises at Harbor Freight before
you know it.

 

One more team will be laboring over our feature project, Mary Albrecht's MKI
Midget. It hasn't been on the road in 17 years. This is the car that she and
her late husband drove on their first date many years ago. It's our hope the
car leaves the Thicko shop under its own power tomorrow afternoon.

 

If you can't be here, we'll see you online in a couple of hours.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From mgs at bonacker.us  Fri Nov 23 15:25:56 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 22:25:56 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
Message-ID: <de0598fa0f7841a28a8c0edc77319356@1594f9aff0ab4fb0b55417f3701f574b>

>I shouldn't lift on the oil pan, but how about putting blocking 
> under
the front edge of the oil pan or the belt pulley?
>>
>>You can safely jack
under the oil pan as long as you use a 
>>heavy (at least 3/4" ply) piece of
wood that goes all the way 
>>across the bottom - AND you make sure you
aren't trying to 
>>jack up an engine that is still attached when you do it.
That's three votes now for a timber under the oil pan with a bottle jack.
That
sounds way easier to me.

Now as I look at it I can't see how to get the
nut
off of the drivers side mount where it attaches to the frame. The steering
shaft is so much in the way that it looks like it will take at least two
dogleg wrenches to get in there. So I suppose I'll need to drop the rack and
pinion to remove the shaft.

I've had two rack boots for a while thinking I
would replace those while I'm at it. Then no telling what else I might notice
when the rack comes off. Maybe I should just drop the cross member while I am
at it.

Is this the shipwright's disease I've heard about?

A member of
my
local club once said he would come over and help me convert to dual carbs
some
"afternoon". Jon - if you're reading this, it's not turning out to be that
easy.

The instructions for removing the steering rack in the shop manuals
I
have seem a little vague. Does anyone know of something more detailed?
Scott 
'65B with potential, '77B driver and a '73 donor

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Nov 23 18:21:55 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 19:21:55 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 the time is now
In-Reply-To: <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
References: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com> <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00a401c82e38$6b7030a0$425091e0$@com>

You know how to get to Wisconsin... hurry up.

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Clarici [mailto:spritenut at comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 5:05 PM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson
Cc: spridgets at autox.team.net; team-thicko at autox.team.net; 'Healeys';
mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07 the time is now

Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:

> We'll probably have 2 teams doing deconstruction of the 7 Spridgets that
> will become organ donors. 

Unless they look like Rusty, do NOT scrap those cars!
What's with you guys, you scrapped Mickey and that was a fine easy project.
Not that I need another project but somebody somewhere needs one or 7.


-- 
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ

From lmacy at phillymgclub.com  Fri Nov 23 18:37:36 2007
From: lmacy at phillymgclub.com (Larry Macy)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 20:37:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 the time is now
In-Reply-To: <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
References: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com> <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <110A3BC6-4894-4EF8-9DD1-13C5400E49B6@phillymgclub.com>

Well, you know those guys. I check at 6 PM Eastern Leftover Time and  
they weren't even working. They musta quit half way through the day.  
On an Oshit, ya work till ya drop. Before, during and after dinner.

Larry

On Nov 23, 2007, at 6:04 PM, Frank Clarici wrote:

> Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
>
>> We'll probably have 2 teams doing deconstruction of the 7 Spridgets  
>> that
>> will become organ donors.
>
> Unless they look like Rusty, do NOT scrap those cars!
> What's with you guys, you scrapped Mickey and that was a fine easy  
> project.
> Not that I need another project but somebody somewhere needs one or 7.
>
>
> -- 
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> _______________________________________________
> lmacy at phillymgclub.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets

-- 

Larry Macy
78 Midget

Keep your top down and your chin up.

Declare your Independence, Bring your MG to MG 2008
Valley Forge, PA June 26-29, 2008
http://mg2008.com

Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
lmacy at phillymgclub.com
Board Member at Large
Philadelphia MG Club

One of these days, you'll look back on all this, and plow into a  
parked car.


-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Nov 23 21:06:17 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 22:06:17 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 the time is now
References: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com> <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
	<110A3BC6-4894-4EF8-9DD1-13C5400E49B6@phillymgclub.com>
Message-ID: <02df01c82e4f$5dba3e80$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<I check at 6 PM Eastern Leftover Time >>

Had you read some of Flounder's missives Larry, you would have KNOWN that they
where going into a local town for sit-down dinner<G>!!

You as about 15 mts. late.

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Nov 23 21:15:59 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 22:15:59 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 the time is now
In-Reply-To: <02df01c82e4f$5dba3e80$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com> <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
	<110A3BC6-4894-4EF8-9DD1-13C5400E49B6@phillymgclub.com>
	<02df01c82e4f$5dba3e80$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071123221241.039bd010@nosimport.com>

At 10:06 PM 11/23/2007, shop at justbrits.com wrote:

><<I check at 6 PM Eastern Leftover Time >>
>
>Had you read some of Flounder's missives Larry, you would have KNOWN that they
>where going into a local town for sit-down dinner<G>!!
>
>You as about 15 mts. late.
===========
It was tasty, too.
Tomorrow we attack brake and clutch hydraulics on the White Midget, 
now that it's running well. Also, LAD's Ute gets bled, and more cars 
succumb to the Sawzall........
But, I'm afraid we've run out of full growlers.... hic
Peter C 

From MGBnutt at aol.com  Fri Nov 23 22:34:42 2007
From: MGBnutt at aol.com (MGBnutt at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 00:34:42 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?
Message-ID: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>

Anyone have any experience with classic car insurance companies in  NJ?  
Hagerty, Grundy, or perhaps American Collectors?  Right now,  the MGB is on the 
same insurance policy as the rest of my cars.  Sure,  there's some 
"multi-vehicle discount" involved but that's nothing compared  to the savings (over $400?) 
I might achieve with some specialty  insurance company.  Any suggestions 
welcome.  (Sorry, I haven't had  time to peruse the archives...)
 
Thanks!
donny v
1978 MGB



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Sat Nov 24 00:15:27 2007
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 23:15:27 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C36D0F8F.9E5D%PRNDL@sonic.net>

> Anyone have any experience with classic car insurance companies in  NJ?
Well, I'm not in NJ but I have had good experience so far with Hagerty. I
have a policy for my '67 MGB for $11K stated value. I pay $127 for the
policy. My "rate factor" is CCBAAA. (Google car insurance rate factor) Your
mileage may vary. I haven't had a claim but they have been very good to deal
with, answering any questions quickly and being very positive about the
customer experience.
-- 
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sat Nov 24 02:04:02 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 03:04:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
References: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4747E902.7030804@gmail.com>

MGBnutt at aol.com wrote:
> Anyone have any experience with classic car insurance companies in  NJ?  
> Hagerty, Grundy, or perhaps American Collectors?  Right now,  the MGB is on the 
> same insurance policy as the rest of my cars.  Sure,  there's some 
> "multi-vehicle discount" involved but that's nothing compared  to the savings (over $400?) 
> I might achieve with some specialty  insurance company.  Any suggestions 
> welcome.  (Sorry, I haven't had  time to peruse the archives...)
I have had a really good experience with J. C. Taylor for years and recommend them highly.

-The Roxter
--

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Nov 24 03:02:38 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 10:02:38 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
References: <de0598fa0f7841a28a8c0edc77319356@1594f9aff0ab4fb0b55417f3701f574b>
Message-ID: <014001c82e83$31036a40$0200a8c0@Three>

If you have a slim spanner (or grind one down) you should be able to undo 
the nut turning the spanner over for each half-flat.  One it is loose you 
can remove the bolts securing the mount to the engine front plate and spin 
the mount out of the nut.  Replacement is the reverse of removal, 
wedge/stick the nut and washers to the spanner, carefully insert the mount 
and turn it to engage the threads, spin it most of the way in, attach to the 
engine front plate, and tighten the chassis mount nut using the 'half a flat 
at a time' technique.  I'd much prefer that to disturbing the rack.

If the boots are knackered unscrew the track-rod ends counting the turns. 
If you leave the track-rod-ends attached and unscrew the track rods from the 
ends, then mark the 'front' of each track-rod before you start.  The rack 
should contain gear oil, so be ready for this when you disconnect the big 
end of the gaiters.  With the new gaiters fitted inject 1/3rd Imperial pint, 
0.4 US pint, 0.2 litre of gear oil.  There are two ways of doing this - one 
is to remove the damper cover plate and damper and inject it slowly in 
there, the other is to inject it into the top of one of the big ends of the 
gaiter.  In both cases do it slowly and turn the rack slowly from lock to 
lock to distribute the oil.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Now as I look at it I can't see how to get the
> nut
> off of the drivers side mount where it attaches to the frame. 

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sat Nov 24 05:15:36 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 06:15:36 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Day 1
Message-ID: <005101c82e93$ba6572a0$2f3057e0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

About 25 SOS'ers showed up yesterday. We got a lot done. We've got a lot
more to do.

 

Folks liked the grilled pork loin. they scarfed it all up.   Swedish
pancakes this AM. can anyone stop and get a couple bottles of maple syrup
(and maybe lingenberries for those wanting authentic?) on their way in?
Smoked salmon today, more pork, and who knows what else.

 

Mary Albrecht's MKI Midget took some effort, but it was running sweet by
day's end.

 

We're going to have to pick up the pace on the deconstructing of the rot
bucket Spridgets. Lots of good parts are being saved though. Just to ease
Frank's mind. these cars are the equal to "Rusty" that he cut up a while
ago. They were rotted out in the 60's and 70's, poorly repaired, and rotted
again. then aged in a bed of raccoon pooh. No amount of taco bell wrappers
and drywall screws would make these things safe for the road again.

 

I've got to start making pancakes. see you online.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sat Nov 24 05:28:46 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 06:28:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 are you seein' what I'm seein'?
Message-ID: <005d01c82e95$91305dd0$b3911970$@com>

Hey.

 

At times we had as many as 50 people viewing the webcam. 25 to 30 at times
in conference. 

 

There will not be audio all the time.as it depends on the threshold levels
on the hands free mic. We do our best to roll the camera cart around the
shop to give you a variety of views. what you see is what you get unless you
request something specifically.

 

If you've added "floundervision" to your friends list, then the video is
available to you. We invite, or re-invite folks to the conference as often
as possible. When we can, we have someone sitting near the laptop to attend
to things. but not always.

 

I will adjust a setting this AM that will give a faster frame rate, and
degrade picture quality somewhat. We'll see of that can keep (some of) you
happy.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov 24 06:44:34 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 07:44:34 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 Day 1
References: <005101c82e93$ba6572a0$2f3057e0$@com>
Message-ID: <02f401c82ea0$26c66380$6401a8c0@Larry>

WST, I'm on the way and will stop for syrup.

LAD


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
To: <spridgets at autox.team.net>; "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>; 
<team-thicko at autox.team.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 6:15 AM
Subject: SOS '07 Day 1


Hey y'all,



About 25 SOS'ers showed up yesterday. We got a lot done. We've got a lot
more to do.



Folks liked the grilled pork loin. they scarfed it all up.   Swedish
pancakes this AM. can anyone stop and get a couple bottles of maple syrup
(and maybe lingenberries for those wanting authentic?) on their way in?
Smoked salmon today, more pork, and who knows what else.



Mary Albrecht's MKI Midget took some effort, but it was running sweet by
day's end.



We're going to have to pick up the pace on the deconstructing of the rot
bucket Spridgets. Lots of good parts are being saved though. Just to ease
Frank's mind. these cars are the equal to "Rusty" that he cut up a while
ago. They were rotted out in the 60's and 70's, poorly repaired, and rotted
again. then aged in a bed of raccoon pooh. No amount of taco bell wrappers
and drywall screws would make these things safe for the road again.



I've got to start making pancakes. see you online.





Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of 
image001.png]

///  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net  or try
///  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/team-thicko
///  Send list postings to team-thicko at autox.team.net
///  Edit your replies!  If they include this trailer, they will NOT be 
sent.

From mgs at bonacker.us  Sat Nov 24 08:49:08 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 15:49:08 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
Message-ID: <0a90236490f7460d9855e4ee2cd2501a@5e6c905805f14efb89f6baa497410f8c>

> If you have a slim spanner (or grind one down) 
> you should be able to
undo the nut turning the 
> spanner over for each half-flat.  One it is 
>
loose you can remove the bolts securing 
> the mount to the engine front
plate and spin 
> the mount out of the nut.  Replacement is the 
> reverse
of removal, wedge/stick the nut and 
> washers to the spanner, carefully
insert the 
> mount and turn it to engage the threads, spin 
> it most of
the way in, attach to the engine 
> front plate, and tighten the chassis
mount nut 
> using the 'half a flat at a time' technique.  

Paul -
With
regards to the spinning - there is a 'dimple' of sorts pressed into the mount
metal that ends up being opposite of the stud that attaches to the car frame.
The hole in the dimple made me think that it was attached to the engine with
a
bolt. It sounds now like there may be a lug or a catch of some kind that will
lift out when the engine is raised. In that case the only two fastenings for
each mount are to the engine front plate.

> I'd much prefer that to
disturbing the rack.

I think I'll respect your advice and leave the rack
to
another time. I did find some useful information on steering racks though,
which reinforces the suggestion that this is a task to be left to itself so
it
can be done thoroughly -

http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/a_rack/
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgoc-basic-3.html
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/steering-rack-service.html
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/front-suspension.html
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/steer.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/sr101.htm
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr/techtips.htm

And there is bound to be
more,
and I am always interested in hearing about it.

Scott
'65B with
potential,
'77B driver and a '73 donor

From mgs at bonacker.us  Sat Nov 24 09:03:33 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:03:33 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
Message-ID: <ff4c05ab3d164d23b1d0e5b6798f8657@3a6b6f1ef2db4396a9a6fd59b7743ead>

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Valda and Merl Rosenthal
[mailto:mvrose at charter.net] 
>
>I did not take my steering shaft out to
tighten the motor 
>mount when I installed my engine. I used a thin bicycle
wrench.
>
>Merl Rosenthal

Excellent idea - I was locked into thinking of
how to do it with the tools I had. Some tools cut out of metal that is too
soft might not allow enough tightening. Did you find some that were forged,
or
did you find some cut out of hard metal?

Scott
'65B with potential, '77B
driver and a '73 donor

From mgs at bonacker.us  Sat Nov 24 09:07:40 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:07:40 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
Message-ID: <4cc1f459c7234212b4b5992c93ed4977@48b8f551700a42b3b60fdf09f61a40a3>

> If you have a slim spanner (or grind one down) you should be able to 
>
undo the nut turning the spanner over for each half-flat. One it is 
> loose
you can remove the bolts securing the mount to the engine front 
> plate and
spin the mount out of the nut. Replacement is the reverse 
> of removal,
wedge/stick the nut and washers to the spanner, carefully 
> insert the
mount
and turn it to engage the threads, spin it most of 
> the way in, attach to
the engine front plate, and tighten the chassis 
> mount nut using the 'half
a flat at a time' technique.
 
Paul -
 
With regards to the spinning -
there is a 'dimple' of sorts pressed into the mount metal that ends up being
opposite of the stud that attaches to the car frame. The hole in the dimple
made me think that it was attached to the engine with a bolt. It sounds now
like there may be a lug or a catch of some kind that will lift out when the
engine is raised. In that case the only two fastenings for each mount are to
the engine front plate.
 
> I'd much prefer that to disturbing the rack.
I think I'll respect your advice and leave the rack to another time. I did
find some useful information on steering racks though, which reinforces the
suggestion that this is a task to be left to itself so it can be done
thoroughly -
 
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/a_rack/
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgoc-basic-3.html
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/steering-rack-service.html
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/front-suspension.html
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/steer.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/sr101.htm
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr/techtips.htm
 
And there is bound to be
more, and I am always interested in hearing about it.
 
Scott
'65B with
potential, '77B driver and a '73 donor

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Nov 24 09:17:39 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:17:39 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
References: <0a90236490f7460d9855e4ee2cd2501a@5e6c905805f14efb89f6baa497410f8c>
Message-ID: <006a01c82eb7$8eb10d80$0200a8c0@Three>

Not sure I understand this.  AFAIK the 77 and later mounts are to the same 
design (albeit slightly softer) than the V8 and the chassis brackets are 
identical.  My V8 mounts have two holes in 'ears' on the side of the mount 
that goes towards the engine, for bolts to attach it to the engine, plus the 
off-set stud that goes through the chassis bracket.  Incidentally the mount 
must be orientated such that the stud is in the lower of the two possible 
positions.  The chassis bracket has a slot cut in it rather than a circular 
hole, and this serves two purposes.  Normally one would attach the mounts to 
the engine and lower it into position.  The studs are at an angle and so the 
slots allow them to pass through the chassis mount (the engine being lowered 
vertically), which they wouldn't if they were only plain holes.  It also 
allows for dimensional differences between the chassis rails by allowing the 
mounts to sit higher up or lower down as appropriate.  Sometimes shims were 
added if the engine sat too low, as the exhaust on the V8 can hit the 
steering shaft and the inner wing.  The stud has a large flat square washer 
plus a split washer and a nut to secure it, none of these 'lift out' when 
the mount is lifted up, they have to be completely removed.

One of my standard spanners (inherited from my father) fits in the space to 
tighten/undo this nut.  It is called a 'slim jim' or something similar, but 
doesn't seem to be that much slimmer than my modern spanners.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> regards to the spinning - there is a 'dimple' of sorts pressed into the 
> mount
> metal that ends up being opposite of the stud that attaches to the car 
> frame.
> The hole in the dimple made me think that it was attached to the engine 
> with
> a
> bolt. It sounds now like there may be a lug or a catch of some kind that 
> will
> lift out when the engine is raised. In that case the only two fastenings 
> for
> each mount are to the engine front plate.

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Sat Nov 24 13:13:34 2007
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 15:13:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
References: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071124151334.2oxsq6ze68sw44c0@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

I've had Hagerty for ~5-6 years here in NJ after 1 very expensive year
with Allstate on a multicar policy.  Although it has risen a bit since
I've got to Hagerty, I found i) the actual dealings were very simple
and ii) a couple of years ago, Hagerty recognized the slowly
increasing values of MG's and suggested I raise the value of mine for
not much money (from $5 to $6000 for $10 bucks).  No problems with
them....

Regards,
Bill S.
BMCSNJ
'74B
'76B


Quoting MGBnutt at aol.com:

> Anyone have any experience with classic car insurance companies in  NJ?
> Hagerty, Grundy, or perhaps American Collectors?  Right now,  the
> MGB is on the
> same insurance policy as the rest of my cars.  Sure,  there's some
> "multi-vehicle discount" involved but that's nothing compared  to
> the savings (over $400?)
> I might achieve with some specialty  insurance company.  Any suggestions
> welcome.  (Sorry, I haven't had  time to peruse the archives...)
>
> Thanks!
> donny v
> 1978 MGB
>
>
>
> **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's
hottest
> products.
> (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> saidel at camden.rutgers.edu
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From barrie at look.ca  Sat Nov 24 13:09:16 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 15:09:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Our cottage industries
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.1.20061112115135.04074cb8@mgaguru.com>
References: <E1GjHzr-00029k-2m@keymaster.look.ca>
	<6.2.3.4.1.20061112115135.04074cb8@mgaguru.com>
Message-ID: <E1Iw1VK-0007Sy-FC@epsilon.look.ca>

Barney,

I am slowly getting people on the web site but it is being "hit" 
quite a lot - 50 on Friday!  Serge is now on there!  !   I now have a 
Parts for Sale section.  Please take a look.


At 01:05 PM 11/12/2006, you wrote:
>At 01:01 PM 11/10/2006 -0500, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>>I know I am not the only one who messes about supplying bits for 
>>Brit cars.  I know Ian Pender sold gas struts and Doug Jackson 
>>sells oil pressure failure warning things.  My idea is to set up a 
>>web site listing all these goodies.  I know I cannot afford to 
>>advertise and I am sure others are in the same boat but we do have 
>>useful stuff.  So are there any more "cottage industry" people interested?
>
>Now there's a noble cause if ever there was one.  I know there is an 
>Autojumble e-mail list on the team.net server, but it only has a few 
>hundred subscribers (and I'm not one of them).  A web site can also 
>be found with a search engine where e-mail lists may not be in the 
>public domain (without registering).  One moderate web site with a 
>number of small vendors may be a better attraction on the net than 
>several small independent web sites (a sort of synergy).  It's 
>easier to make a single bookmark, and maybe nice to find a nuber of 
>related products in one place.  I don't have anything to vend, but I 
>think it's a good idea anyway.
>
>$.02,
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
>http://MGAguru.com
>
>Your messages not reaching the list?
>Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
>
>===  Help keep Team.Net on the air
>===     http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>===  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net  or try
>===  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
>===  Other lists available at
>===      http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
>===  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>===  http://www.team.net/the-local
>===  Edit your replies!
>

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 24 14:44:55 2007
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:44:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <C36D0F8F.9E5D%PRNDL@sonic.net>
References: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
  <C36D0F8F.9E5D%PRNDL@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <BAY125-W256D6FA9F0BC05AA6FEC87BF7B0@phx.gbl>

Try JC Taylor in PA.  Just be sure the policy you price out meets your needs.
These companies provide inexpensive plans but limit the number of miles to
just club events and rallys.  If you have a daily driver you will probably
need regular insurance.

> Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 23:15:27 -0800> From: PRNDL at sonic.net> To:
mgs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?> > > Anyone have
any experience with classic car insurance companies in NJ?> Well, I'm not in
NJ but I have had good experience so far with Hagerty. I> have a policy for my
'67 MGB for $11K stated value. I pay $127 for the> policy. My "rate factor" is
CCBAAA. (Google car insurance rate factor) Your> mileage may vary. I haven't
had a claim but they have been very good to deal> with, answering any
questions quickly and being very positive about the> customer experience.> --
> Rod Williams> Petaluma, California> 1967 MGB>
_______________________________________________> tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com> >
Edit your replies> > Mgs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Nov 24 20:24:18 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 21:24:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 Day 1
References: <005101c82e93$ba6572a0$2f3057e0$@com>
	<4748E034.1050602@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00e101c82f12$aaa4c120$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<I also have a big box of pop rivets and rolls of really thin aluminum
flashing and steel wool balls.>>

What????  NO Stop Signs???  Oh the shame of it all!!!

<<What, no faith?>>

Sigh, not now!!!
.
.
.
.
LOL

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Nov 25 05:01:39 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 06:01:39 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] SOS '07 Day 1
In-Reply-To: <4748E034.1050602@comcast.net>
References: <005101c82e93$ba6572a0$2f3057e0$@com>
	<4748E034.1050602@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003301c82f5a$f1c28b80$d547a280$@com>

"steel wool balls"...

Now that sounds like a personal problem...

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Clarici [mailto:spritenut at comcast.net] 
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 8:39 PM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson
Cc: spridgets at autox.team.net; team-thicko at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07 Day 1

Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
> Hey y'all,
>  No amount of taco bell wrappers
> and drywall screws would make these things safe for the road again.

What, no faith?
I also have a big box of pop rivets and rolls of really thin aluminum 
flashing and steel wool balls.
-- 
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Nov 25 05:27:13 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 06:27:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets]   SOS '07 the time is now
In-Reply-To: <4748DF4A.5080705@comcast.net>
References: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com> <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
	<110A3BC6-4894-4EF8-9DD1-13C5400E49B6@phillymgclub.com>
	<02df01c82e4f$5dba3e80$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071123221241.039bd010@nosimport.com>
	<4748DF4A.5080705@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003601c82f5e$84dbfca0$8e93f5e0$@com>

The chicken coop coon crap cars made Mickey look like a gold level
restoration.

-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Frank Clarici
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 8:35 PM
To: Peter C
Cc: Spridgets; List; shop at justbrits.com; List at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [Mgs] SOS '07 the time is now

Peter C wrote:
>  and more cars succumb to the Sawzall........

I thought this was SOS and it meant SAVE OUR SPRITES
not SAWZALL our Sprites!
BTW, Flounder has a muffler he wants to get to me ;)

-- 
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ

From peter at nosimport.com  Sun Nov 25 09:26:15 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 10:26:15 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 reflections....
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20071123221241.039bd010@nosimport.com>
References: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com> <47475C80.30604@comcast.net>
	<110A3BC6-4894-4EF8-9DD1-13C5400E49B6@phillymgclub.com>
	<02df01c82e4f$5dba3e80$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071123221241.039bd010@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071125100205.0339fe00@nosimport.com>

Scraping the mixture of grease and raccoon "poo" from beneath my 
nails affords me a moment to reflect Friday's and Saturday's activities.
   Several Spridgets were reduced to their essential elements, the 
fabric of their being having long ago succumbed to the effects of 
oxidation. Yes, SOS means Save Our Sprites, but many others will be 
better for the supply of parts from these donors. Trust me, there was 
nothing else that could be done.
	The camaraderie was very enjoyable. Nary a political word was 
spoken. Got to see some familiar faces, and meet some new. The food 
was wonderful. Thanks to the donors!
	The project white Midget needs some more detailing... brake 
hydraulics, and wheel bearings being primary. Attempts at removing 
the recalcitrant left front wheel severely impacted both wheel and 
hub bearings. It should be a good running car that will soon need 
some body work.
	Larry's Ute tune-up took only slightly less time than it's journey 
from New Zealand, but apparently it is now able to push the 
relativity limit of speed. (It is now relatively faster than a turtle)
	
	Thanks to our hosts Nancy and Flounder. Great fun. (They're busy 
thawing the pipes and closing up their other house at the moment)

	I made it home without incident. The Deere are afraid of the Mini, apparently.

Have a great Sunday and work week.

Peter C.

From mvrose at charter.net  Sun Nov 25 11:20:01 2007
From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 10:20:01 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank vent
Message-ID: <001e01c82f8f$cb8eeeb0$aa43ba44@Primary>

I need some advise.  I have installed SU carbs on my 1980 MGB.  Currently I am
venting the gas tank through the vent line to the canister in the trunk to the
outside atmosphere through the fitting located on the bulk head of the truck
next to the fuel pump(not being vented to inside of truck).  I am not running
any pollution devices including the 2 charcoal canisters mounted by the
windshield washer pump.  I would like to vent it into my intake manifold or
carb because I live in Washington state high desert and we can get dusty
conditions. I am concerned about sucking dirt/dust into my gas tank.  Which
placed  would be better to vent the tank to?  And, what are the pros and cons
of venting it to the manifold or carbs versus venting it to atmosphere?  My
gas cap is a nonventing unit.


Merl Rosenthal  1980 MGB

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 25 12:03:33 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 13:03:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 reflections....
References: <002401c82dcb$d1db99a0$7592cce0$@com>
	<47475C80.30604@comcast.net><110A3BC6-4894-4EF8-9DD1-13C5400E49B6@phillymgclub.com><02df01c82e4f$5dba3e80$6501a8c0@actualshop><7.0.1.0.2.20071123221241.039bd010@nosimport.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071125100205.0339fe00@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <043a01c82f95$e0d335f0$6401a8c0@Larry>

As Peter said, SOS '07 went off well, again.  We had between 20 and 25 
people there on Friday some of whom returned on Saturday to join some new 
faces.

Mr. and Mrs. Flounder were great hosts, as always.  They worked as hard at 
keeping us all fed and happy as any of us did at dismantling, giving new 
life to or tuning British iron.

As always there was lots of good food and good beer, including 6 growlers of 
fine micro-brew and many 6-packs of small brewery offerings -- and not a 
single Bud Light or Miller Lite disgraced the premises.

Many thanks to Peter for sticking with me in tracing down an ignition 
problem on the Ute that presented as an HT problem, but eventually, after 
much frustration, turned out to be a developmental piece in the LT side 
(twice).  We went back to standard parts and all was fine.  It's still a bit 
of a head scratcher to say why it worked out that way.  (Peter, I'm not 
ready to throw the towel in on that yet.  Now that we know to ignore what 
seems obvious, a third trial won't cause me to tear out what is left of my 
hair.)

The good news is that, after all of our work, on the trip home the little 
Ute was able to exceed the factory's stated top speed by 5 MPH.  It now is 
capable of earning a speeding ticket that one could be proud of.  Now I need 
some high compression pistons from a 1622 cc MGA MkII and a decent 
intake/carb system.  Can you imagine the factory putting a single HS2 on a 
1622 cc B series motor?  That makes for slow with a capital 'S'.  We simply 
cannot have that.

Several of the guys got the widow's Midget running after 17 years in 
hibernation.  The thing actually sounded pretty good!  That was a nice thing 
to do and she seemed happy.

Unfortunately, we weren't able to find the time to tear down half of the 
Coon Crap Cars, but there are now many parts available to keep more worthy 
cars on the road.  Peter should have lots of shocks to rebuild for all of 
you guys.  Looks like there will be plenty of work available for a summer 
get-together.  Plus, the weather will be more amenable then to some go-kart 
racing on Flounder's track.

On a personal note, I was able to get through the whole weekend without 
succumbing to the "Curse of the Dream Farm".  No stops at the Emergency 
Clinic on the way home.  Yaaaay.

LAD

From montejane at gmail.com  Sun Nov 25 16:13:59 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 17:13:59 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <BAY125-W256D6FA9F0BC05AA6FEC87BF7B0@phx.gbl>
References: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com> <C36D0F8F.9E5D%PRNDL@sonic.net>
	<BAY125-W256D6FA9F0BC05AA6FEC87BF7B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0711251513i212cda6ct4b8b4de5a9ef16fe@mail.gmail.com>

I pay $116/year on State Farm for a stated $8000 value on our 79B.
This is for antique/classic car insurance that I had to ask about;
they did not volunteer it. They know I drive it much more than the
policy says I should (I even drive it to their office most of the
time) but  said not to worry about it. I think it all depends upon
your agent and how well you know him.
Monte

On 11/24/07, Tuck Southworth <tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Try JC Taylor in PA.  Just be sure the policy you price out meets your
> needs.
> These companies provide inexpensive plans but limit the number of miles to
> just club events and rallys.  If you have a daily driver you will probably
> need regular insurance.
>
> > Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 23:15:27 -0800> From: PRNDL at sonic.net> To:
> mgs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?> > > Anyone
> have
> any experience with classic car insurance companies in NJ?> Well, I'm not in
> NJ but I have had good experience so far with Hagerty. I> have a policy for
> my
> '67 MGB for $11K stated value. I pay $127 for the> policy. My "rate factor"
> is
> CCBAAA. (Google car insurance rate factor) Your> mileage may vary. I haven't
> had a claim but they have been very good to deal> with, answering any
> questions quickly and being very positive about the> customer experience.>
> --
> > Rod Williams> Petaluma, California> 1967 MGB>
> _______________________________________________> tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com>
> >
> Edit your replies> > Mgs at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From montejane at gmail.com  Sun Nov 25 16:37:57 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 17:37:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts
In-Reply-To: <006a01c82eb7$8eb10d80$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <0a90236490f7460d9855e4ee2cd2501a@5e6c905805f14efb89f6baa497410f8c>
	<006a01c82eb7$8eb10d80$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0711251537j6a08556x58b8f3e8355ab89a@mail.gmail.com>

Scott,
I did the the ZS to HIF conversion myself 3-4 years ago (and don't
consider myself a mechanic:).
I also replaced the motor mounts at the same time as the above. If
memory serves me, to get to the nuts I ground down a wrench, jacked up
the motor by the oil pan as stated above, and let the pinion slide
downwards by removing the bottom plate below the steering damper and
loosening the nut on the U-joint on the steering. Don't move the
steering wheel or wheels while the pinion is loose( I marked the
steering pinion and the U-joint so I could put them back in the same
place.
I haven't a clue if method this is recommended, but it worked fine for
me and the steering/toe in, etc all were maintained as before.

On 11/24/07, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Not sure I understand this.  AFAIK the 77 and later mounts are to the same
> design (albeit slightly softer) than the V8 and the chassis brackets are
> identical.  My V8 mounts have two holes in 'ears' on the side of the mount
> that goes towards the engine, for bolts to attach it to the engine, plus the
> off-set stud that goes through the chassis bracket.  Incidentally the mount
> must be orientated such that the stud is in the lower of the two possible
> positions.  The chassis bracket has a slot cut in it rather than a circular
> hole, and this serves two purposes.  Normally one would attach the mounts to
> the engine and lower it into position.  The studs are at an angle and so the
> slots allow them to pass through the chassis mount (the engine being lowered
> vertically), which they wouldn't if they were only plain holes.  It also
> allows for dimensional differences between the chassis rails by allowing the
> mounts to sit higher up or lower down as appropriate.  Sometimes shims were
> added if the engine sat too low, as the exhaust on the V8 can hit the
> steering shaft and the inner wing.  The stud has a large flat square washer
> plus a split washer and a nut to secure it, none of these 'lift out' when
> the mount is lifted up, they have to be completely removed.
>
> One of my standard spanners (inherited from my father) fits in the space to
> tighten/undo this nut.  It is called a 'slim jim' or something similar, but
> doesn't seem to be that much slimmer than my modern spanners.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > regards to the spinning - there is a 'dimple' of sorts pressed into the
> > mount
> > metal that ends up being opposite of the stud that attaches to the car
> > frame.
> > The hole in the dimple made me think that it was attached to the engine
> > with
> > a
> > bolt. It sounds now like there may be a lug or a catch of some kind that
> > will
> > lift out when the engine is raised. In that case the only two fastenings
> > for
> > each mount are to the engine front plate.
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From RampantNM at aol.com  Sun Nov 25 17:32:01 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 19:32:01 EST
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 reflections....
Message-ID: <c62.1e21477d.347b6e01@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/25/2007 9:26:52 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
peter at nosimport.com writes:

The  Deere are afraid of the Mini, apparently

 
You scared some tractors????

 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching  for experienced 
hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging  to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven of the Haynes  shop manual.



**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Nov 26 01:58:05 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 08:58:05 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Gas tank vent
References: <001e01c82f8f$cb8eeeb0$aa43ba44@Primary>
Message-ID: <00e901c8300b$64aa3930$0200a8c0@Three>

If you really are concerned about dust and dirt getting into the tank via an 
open pipe in the trunk (how much dirt and dust gets into the trunk anyway?) 
then just fit a small K&N filter onto the end of the pipe in the trunk.

Connecting it to the inlet manifold is not a good idea as that can develop 
20+ in.Hg. of vacuum which I'm fairly sure would overwhelm the fuel pump, if 
not collapse the tank.

Teeing it into the carb PCV ports (that currently should be connected to the 
front tappet chest cover) is a possibility as that only develops 2 or 3 
in.Hg., but that is still more vacuum than was applied to the tank in the 
original configuration.  In the original configuration the 2 or 3 in.Hg. 
from the carbs was applied to the charcoal canister via a restrictor, which 
reduced it to a much lower level than that.  The canister itself was open to 
atmosphere at the bottom, hence there was no depression inside the canister 
itself, unless the charcoal filter at the bottom became blocked.  The tank 
and float chambers were connected to the canister above this filter.  This 
wasn't to filter air going into the tank and float chamber, but to trap 
fumes coming *from* the tank and float chamber from expansion and filling. 
The continual suction through the filter from the carbs then purged i.e. 
cleaned the filter.

The only good reason to remove the canister(s) and associated plumbing is to 
remove clutter in the engine bay.  Left alone, even if you remove the air 
pump, gulp valve etc. which *does* adversely affect performance, the 
canister and its plumbing will continue to reduce fumes getting into the 
atmosphere, and the anti-runon valve will still function.

But even if you had a sealed tank and a vented gas cap I can't see much by 
way of dust getting into the tank, it will only be as the fuel level drops 
while driving (unless parked in reducing temperatures in a dust storm), and 
you would need several pounds to get in before it started affecting 
anything.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... I am concerned about sucking dirt/dust into my gas tank. 

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Nov 26 05:23:16 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 06:23:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 whew
Message-ID: <00fa01c83027$210347a0$6309d6e0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Basking in the SOS afterglow here..

 

OK. that's not true. Recovering is closer to the mark. We had around 25
folks here Fri., and a dozen or so Sat. We worked. We ate. We worked some
more, we ate some more. We got a lot done, but we're left with more to do.
Kris Larsen brought his plasma cutter, but got sidetracked on his racecar
project. I bought oxygen for my torch last week, yet somehow managed to not
notice I needed acetylene. So, 4 Spridgets were relieved of many of their
organ donor items, but await their final destiny.

 

On Mary's MKI Midget, the team got that thing running so sweet it's really
hard to believe. The right front wire wheel defied all attempts to remove
it, and I finally had to get out the blue wrench and torch it off. I managed
to do so without destroying the hub. Anyone got a spare wire wheel for Mary?
We're going to get a smaller SOS group together (would that be sos?)  in a
couple of weeks and finish up the brakes on it and get it back to Madison.

 

Thanks to all who attended, and those of you that had a vicarious experience
via the Floundervision webcast.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 26 07:40:03 2007
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 06:40:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] SOS '07 whew
In-Reply-To: <00fa01c83027$210347a0$6309d6e0$@com>
Message-ID: <712803.114.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

greetings,
     SOS was quite the production. The shop was a
beehive of activity for two days..the video was most
informative..and I did see the Biggest Green Hammer
that I have ever seen. The play by play commentary was
also useful. We will be rooting for Mary's Mk1 revival
as well. Hope a wheel gets ther in due course.
Thanks Flounder for all the effort that went into the
production.
Howard Gentry

--- "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
wrote:

> Hey y'all,
> 
>  
> 
> Basking in the SOS afterglow here..
> 
>  
> 
> OK. that's not true. Recovering is closer to the
> mark. We had around 25
> folks here Fri., and a dozen or so Sat. We worked.
> We ate. We worked some
> more, we ate some more. We got a lot done, but we're
> left with more to do.
> Kris Larsen brought his plasma cutter, but got
> sidetracked on his racecar
> project. I bought oxygen for my torch last week, yet
> somehow managed to not
> notice I needed acetylene. So, 4 Spridgets were
> relieved of many of their
> organ donor items, but await their final destiny.
> 
>  
> 
> On Mary's MKI Midget, the team got that thing
> running so sweet it's really
> hard to believe. The right front wire wheel defied
> all attempts to remove
> it, and I finally had to get out the blue wrench and
> torch it off. I managed
> to do so without destroying the hub. Anyone got a
> spare wire wheel for Mary?
> We're going to get a smaller SOS group together
> (would that be sos?)  in a
> couple of weeks and finish up the brakes on it and
> get it back to Madison.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all who attended, and those of you that
> had a vicarious experience
> via the Floundervision webcast.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Wm. Severin Thompson
> 
> ~iii<O
> 
> 
> 
>  <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com>
> wsthompson at thicko.com
> 
>  <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type
> image/png which had a name of image001.png]
> _______________________________________________
> zymmer4 at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 


The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better pen pal. 
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.  http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Mon Nov 26 08:42:04 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:42:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Classic Car Insurance?
In-Reply-To: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
References: <c33.1dc72408.347911f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8D4A8277-3FEB-43B7-8FE2-3BC3945D28FB@blakedischer.com>

I use Hagerty. You can get a quote on their website www.hagerty.com.   
My TR6 is about $175 per year.

Disclosure: they are a sponsor of America's British Reliability Run (www.abrr.org 
) which I organize.

Best,
Blake Discher




On Nov 24, 2007, at 12:34 AM, MGBnutt at aol.com wrote:

> Anyone have any experience with classic car insurance companies in   
> NJ?

From twobees at sprynet.com  Mon Nov 26 17:59:47 2007
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 19:59:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Sell or Swap - SU Carb Ram Pipes/Air Horns
Message-ID: <003401c83090$cea84fe0$77451645@normoffice>

I have  two pairs of ram pipes for 1-3/4" SUs.  One pair is fully flared, 2"
long x 3-3/8" wide mouthed horns.  The other pair is the 1/2" high type for
use inside an air filter.  They are fully rounded.
 
Both pair are in like-new condition, are aluminum and are among the best
recommended by David Vizard in his tuning guides.
 
I prefer to swap one pair for the same type horns for 1-1/2" SUs.  But, am
open to offers for outright sale.
 
Norm Sippel
'59 Turner

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Nov 26 23:02:30 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 00:02:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS 2007
Message-ID: <474BB2F6.6070604@wi.net>

Hi folks, I did a long summary of my experience this past weekend. It is 
apparently too long and didn't get sent out right away.  My apologies to 
Mark and the list.

I do have 17 pictures I'd like to send to someone to post...Ed, you have 
room?

Thanks for a great weekend!
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Nov 26 22:48:44 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 23:48:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS 2007 reflections
Message-ID: <474BAFBC.2050600@wi.net>

As others have already eloquently reviewed the weekend, let me offer 
some insight as a first-timer.  First: Why the hell didn't I go last 
year?!  It was a pleasure to meet the faces whose emails I read and to 
work beside besotted brothers, and sisters (Nancy and Mary dug right 
in).  It pained everyone to excise "organs" from terminal donors but 
there are only so many Taco wrappers in the world.

While I was primarily involved with the very original Midget MkI, I 
tried to roam and check out the other projects as well.  Everyone seemed 
to find their own niche and work was constant until it was time to for 
refueling.  Thanks to the smoked salmon, pork roast, cheese curds, onion 
rings, Swedish pancakes, and whatever else I am missing, we were more 
than adequately nourished.  Oh, and those Growlers disappeared fairly 
quickly. ;-)

The entire event was a highlight but working on Mary's Midget MkI was 
special.  After Ernie, Chris, Mike, Peter, William, and I changed the 
oil and coolant, cleaned 17 year old varnish from the carb needles and 
float needle (one float chamber had a missing needle) and seats, and 
drained the 17 year old gas (Ernie what's that cologne you're wearing??) 
it was time to fire it up.  OK, so which one of youse guys has the 
key?!  Ahhh, no one......  Before we could attempt a New Jersey solution 
(hot-wire) it was Flounder to the rescue!  He had, of course, another 
ignition lock with key.  It had 4 terminals and the Midget 3, with no 
reference numbers.  I don't do well with electrics so I naively thought 
I'd try the key to see if it fit.  Ta-DA, it worked!  Son-of-a-gun.

We had Mary hop in the car, turn the key and pull the starter.  The 
starter engaged and cranked but the engine didn't light up.  Eventually 
traced to a coil and once replaced the little bugger started on the 
second crank revolution!  Only a good amount of rust from the tail pipe 
betrayed how long the engine had been dormant.  The darn thing purred 
like an overfed "wheel chock".

We then turned our attention to draining the tranny and diff, which 
still need to be filled, and rebuilding the master cylinder and wheel 
cylinders.  As time was running out I brought the parts home and Don 
Thompson gets to clean and paint the pedals and pedal box whilst I 
rebuild the master and wheel cylinders.  Hopefully we can find a slave 
cylinder for the 1098/smooth case as the original disappeared sometime 
in the past.

So, another weekend is called for to refit the refurbished parts and 
make the car drivable.  Yes, the Great Green Hammer and finally the Blue 
Torch removed the recalcitrant right front wheel, but that's a mere 
speed-bump in the progress of Mary's Midget.

For a hopeless romantic (as far as any car is concerned) this was 
another great chapter in my book of LBC experiences.  The people and the 
cars are special and it was awesome knowing that people out there were 
watching.  So..........WHEN IS THE NEXT TRIP!!!???

I took a 17 pictures but have no way of posting them.  I can send them 
(takes a while on dial up so I have to go where they have high speed) to 
whom ever or Ed do you have space?  We'll let you know.

Peter, I know we teased you, but I'm really glad you and the Mini made 
it home without incident.  BTW, You left just in time as my MINI 
(Winston) was getting interested in your Mini!!

Many thanks for all the effort Nancy and William put in to make this an 
enjoyable and productive experience.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Nov 27 12:44:00 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 13:44:00 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] SOS 2007
References: <474BB2F6.6070604@wi.net>
Message-ID: <123301c8312d$dc1ac390$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Of course, Larry.

Please re-name each picture file name EXACTLY to:  LD_SOS07_01.*** (the .***
being th original type of what it is in LOWER case.), LD_SOS07_02.***,
LD_SOS07_01.***, etc..

Reduce the physical sizes to a MAX of 1024 wide.  Then reduce the resolution
of each to 10 dpi or pxs.

Send away.

Me

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Tue Nov 27 14:54:18 2007
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 13:54:18 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Overflow Tubes bracket
In-Reply-To: <014001c82e83$31036a40$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C371D20A.9F47%PRNDL@sonic.net>

I'm putting a '67 MGB engine back in service and can't for the life of me
figure out where the bracket with the clip mounts that holds the SU carb
overflow tubes. This is the bracket that mounts near the bottom driver's
side of the engine, near or on the left side motor mount, that holds the two
float overflow tubes in place near their bottom end. If anyone has this
bracket still in place and can provide even a crappy digital photo, I'd be
forever thankful. I've gone through all of my books and catalogs to no
avail.
Cheers!
-- 
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Thu Nov 29 19:25:18 2007
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 18:25:18 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Overflow Tubes bracket
In-Reply-To: <C371D20A.9F47%PRNDL@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <C374B48E.A00A%PRNDL@sonic.net>

Thanks for all the email with suggestions on where the carburetor float bowl
overflow tube bracket is attached. It turns out that the 1967 18GB engine
does not have the redundant mechanical fuel pump boss in the casting.
Earlier ones do. My car has the bracket for the overflow tubes attached at
the same place on the block that the driver's side motor mount top flange
bolts to the engine. The winner with the correct info was Lawrie Alexander.
Thanks everyone. Now get out there and drive!

Pix of the bracket installed at:
    http://web.mac.com/rodwilliamsca/iWeb/Site/MGB.html

Thanks again.
-- 
-Rod-