[Mgs] hood insulation

[Councill, David]

What I meant to say is to drill a couple of alignment holes through the
hinge and the hood bracket that attaches the hinge. The original (bolt)
holes are somewhat elongated to allow the position of the hood to be
adjusted in/out and up/down. The small 1/8" holes allow the exact
position to be marked. However, I have also heard people have marked the
hinge position with white-out or similar to allow the position to be
quickly found but I like the idea of using small holes/pins to mark the
position prior to bolting the hood to the hinges.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Dodd, Kelvin [mailto:doddk at mossmotors.com]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 11:53 AM
To: Councill, David; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Mgs] hood insulation

David:

The original bonnets and hinges were drilled by Pressed Steel to allow
the bonnets to be removed and re-installed on the MG production line.

You should be able to use the original holes in the hinges and drill the
bonnet if it has been replaced or re-aligned.

Kelvin Dodd






> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Councill,
David
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 10:25 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] hood insulation
>
> Getting the hood re-aligned can be a problem after you remove it. It
is
> not a big problem but it can be time consuming to get it centered so
> that it looks correct and opens/shuts easily. Someone suggested, maybe
> on this list, to drill two separate 1/8" holes into each bracket. The
> idea being that you can then center those holes using pins or small
> screws to get a perfect match to the alignment and then bolt the
> brackets back on. I hope this makes sense but if you look at the area
> where you remove the bolts holding the hood on you should see what I
> mean. I haven't done it yet but will next time I have to remove the
> hood.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B