From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul  1 03:57:59 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 10:57:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] brake bleeding question
References: <bea.1360db82.33b881af@aol.com>
Message-ID: <012e01c7bbc7$bc01a960$0200a8c0@Three>

With both my cars I have to use a 2-stage process.  First fill and 
low-pressure bleed either with the pedal and a one-way valve on the 
slaves/calipers, or a Gunsons EeziBleed (which doesn't need the valve as it 
is a continuous flow process).  However that always leaves me with a long 
pedal that pumps up, but then goes long again after just a few seconds.  the 
2nd stage is to get someone to stand on the pedal while I rapidly open and 
close each caliper nipple in turn.  This always gets an extra 'lump' of air 
out, and after that it is fine - i.e. virtually no difference in pedal 
'length' between one pump and several.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> So I guess my question is, how should the brake pedal feel after I'm done
> with each brake. 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  1 08:24:26 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 07:24:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] A couple of uninteresting pictures
In-Reply-To: <C2AC6F34.113AC%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <537033.11484.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thank you Max.  I stand corrected.

rick
--- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> What you don't realize is that Lucas pioneered the
> concept of under-car neon
> lighting back in the 60s, with the Riley Elf and
> Wolseley Hornet "Dub
> Editions"... Sadly, the lighting never worked, and
> the trend didn't catch
> on.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 6/30/07 3:35 PM, Rick Lindsay at
> rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:
> 
> > Yo, yo Dan, whaz up?!
> >   If you have some red paint, hook me up.  ;-)
> >    No, sorry, these cars are British so perhaps I
> > should have been more conservative.  I should have
> > used flat black paint.
> >    I'd consider the purple neon lights but being
> in
> > the realm of Lucas, they'd probably be dark
> anyway.
> > 
> > rick
> > 
> > --- Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > 
> >> Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote: And a
> coat
> >> of gloss black paint, seen drying in this shot
> >> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0656.JPG .  The
> finish
> >> is
> >> now uniformaly smooth and neat.
> >> 
> >> ----------------
> >> Black is so boring, Rick, why not a nice coat of
> red
> >> to match the car? You can paint the front
> calipers
> >> to match!! Next up: purple neon lites underneath!
> ;)
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >>       Dan D
> >> Central NJ USA
> >> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's
> that
> >> smoke? <cough cough>
> >> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
> >>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
> >> NAMGBR #5-2328 
> >>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul  1 08:51:06 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 15:51:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] A couple of uninteresting pictures
References: <489651.65792.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003501c7bbf0$4b279960$0200a8c0@Three>

That would be 'black lights', then http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_light. 
Very trendy - or tarty, according to taste.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   I'd consider the purple neon lights but being in
> the realm of Lucas, they'd probably be dark anyway.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  1 14:17:21 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 13:17:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] One brake corner done, three remaining...
Message-ID: <799463.28053.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Gang,
   Here is a picture of the assembled brake drum and
hub http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0659.JPG .  The red
is a light coating of fresh axle grease.  The mating
splines in the wheels are in good condition
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0662.JPG , if a showing a
little surface rust discoloration in places.  These
splines will be freshened and the surrounding wheel
hub will be cleaned and painted.
   The rims are in good condition with only a little
surface rust staining
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0660.JPG .  Same with the
spokes http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0663.JPG . 
Another case for cleaning, lubricating and fresh
paint.
   That's it.

rick

From jmc987 at earthlink.net  Sun Jul  1 17:21:24 2007
From: jmc987 at earthlink.net (joseph cianciotti)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 19:21:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Laws for British Cars
Message-ID: <F1366DD8-DFC5-4D5A-8851-F450075E3CEF@earthlink.net>

I'm not sure if the Law of Non-Functional Attributes applies solely  
to British cars. I have a 1993 Volvo 240 whose front passenger window  
has worked off and on (mostly off) since we've owned it. First it was  
the switch, then it was a solenoid. One of these days, I'm going to  
open it upmyself. That's when I'll discover that they were sourcing  
parts from Lucas. <grin>

Joseph
67 MGB Roadster

From montejane at gmail.com  Sun Jul  1 17:39:58 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2007 16:39:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] front axle grease cups
In-Reply-To: <003b01c7b9bd$711445e0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
References: <C2A94F08.1126F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<003b01c7b9bd$711445e0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0707011639gfd76b7eqf9483b48abd37c38@mail.gmail.com>

the rod that treads into  the socket on a floor lamp worked on mine.
Monte


On 6/28/07, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> it is press fit (pounded) in.  you have to grab it by the balls, er,
> thingee, and pull it out.
>
> >
> >> Hey Gang,
> >>    I'm at work and the car and manuals are at home.
> >> Please share a bit of advice: My '70 B has wire wheels
> >> so it has spline hubs.  How does the (front,
> >> obviously) grease cap come off?  Is it press fit in?
> >> Screwed in?  Magic?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> rick
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From mjanacek at snet.net  Mon Jul  2 03:28:11 2007
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 05:28:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] front axle grease cups
References: <C2A94F08.1126F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><003b01c7b9bd$711445e0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
	<cab4b95c0707011639gfd76b7eqf9483b48abd37c38@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001f01c7bc8b$502163b0$5d49fc40@DESKTOP>

I take it you removed the rod from the lamp first?????  ;o)

Mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Monte/Jane Morris" <montejane at gmail.com>
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] front axle grease cups


> the rod that treads into  the socket on a floor lamp worked on mine.
> Monte
> 
> 
> On 6/28/07, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> it is press fit (pounded) in.  you have to grab it by the balls, er,
>> thingee, and pull it out.
>>
>> >
>> >> Hey Gang,
>> >>    I'm at work and the car and manuals are at home.
>> >> Please share a bit of advice: My '70 B has wire wheels
>> >> so it has spline hubs.  How does the (front,
>> >> obviously) grease cap come off?  Is it press fit in?
>> >> Screwed in?  Magic?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >>
>> >> rick

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul  2 04:32:21 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 11:32:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] front axle grease cups
References: <C2A94F08.1126F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><003b01c7b9bd$711445e0$8115a8c0@Garage.local><cab4b95c0707011639gfd76b7eqf9483b48abd37c38@mail.gmail.com>
	<001f01c7bc8b$502163b0$5d49fc40@DESKTOP>
Message-ID: <002201c7bc96$2d440fe0$0200a8c0@Three>

... and trod carefully while doing so ...

----- Original Message ----- 

>I take it you removed the rod from the lamp first?????  ;o)

>> the rod that treads into  the socket on a floor lamp worked on mine.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  2 18:23:15 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 17:23:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Brake failure point found
Message-ID: <579555.5116.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
   I have found the source of my MGB's brake failure.
   A look at the brake drum gave the first clue.  It
had a buildup of brake fluid and dirt on the exterior
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0668.JPG .  The hub was
also overly greasy
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0669.JPG , which may have
have nothing to do with the brake failure.  The brake
fluid was all over everything
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0665.JPG including the
leaking cylinder http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0666.JPG
.
   All of this changes the plans.  I will now rebuild
the rear brakes on both sides.  I'll rebuild the
cylinders and install new shoes.  The drums are both
undamaged.

Regards,

rick

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Mon Jul  2 23:07:34 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2007 05:07:34 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? And, a fateful tale of four fenders
Message-ID: <070320070507.298.4689D996000E1F680000012A22165514069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hello list.
I'm thinking of buying a car carrier to carry the various projects to paint 
shop. I'll also use it to move in a few months.
I'm torn between renting the u-haul or buying, but I need to know weight of car.
Can't read the plate on the 74.5. looks like ?803. I'm guessing 1803, but could 
be 2803lbs Maybe the bumpers weigh in at 1803lbs. The engines what, around 
750lbs? Probably 2803, but kindly check for me?

Four fenders.
When I bought the 1965MGB roadster, it came with four new fenders, still in the 
bubble wrap. Moss fenders.
I can fix what's already on the car with my welding device. And a B.F.H. :-)
Anyone interested in buying fenders at a decent % of the moss price? Trade for 
car hauler? I'm 
not sure where I'll park the car hauling trailer, but I'll manage.
I am located in San Francisco Bay area.
--
Eric
46 MGTC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra
So many cars, so little parking

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul  3 02:10:03 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:10:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? And,
 a fateful tale of four  fenders
References: <070320070507.298.4689D996000E1F680000012A22165514069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00cf01c7bd4b$2e5863d0$0200a8c0@Three>

Kerbside weights (full tank plus all extras) range from 2303lb for an early 
roadster to 2529 for a late rubber bumper GT V8.  An early roadster unladen 
weight is given as 1920lb i.e. no fuel or extras.  Dry engine with clutch is 
358lb for an early 3-bearing.  Gearbox is 78lb.  Rear axle 117.5lb for disc 
wheels, 123lb for wires.  Info from the Leyland Workshop Manual.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'm torn between renting the u-haul or buying, but I need to know weight 
> of car.

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Tue Jul  3 06:57:04 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 08:57:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? And,
 a fateful tale of four  fenders
In-Reply-To: <00cf01c7bd4b$2e5863d0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <070320070507.298.4689D996000E1F680000012A22165514069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<00cf01c7bd4b$2e5863d0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <76664a460707030557w4b89df3r6bca7b34ed5344e@mail.gmail.com>

If you are going to use it a few times, I would recommend getting your own
trailer.  First, U-Haul will give you a fit unless you have the right truck,
or you rent one of theirs.  U-Haul is notorious for causing great pains to
renters, from long wait times with disgruntled staff that are overbooked
from the toll free dispatch to difficult CYA rental policies.

And if you have your own trailer, you'll get more use out of it than a
pickup truck and you won't pay as much for it.  At 25xxlbs, you are just
over the towing capacity of just about any car.   For short distances, I
wouldn't worry about that at all, for long distances, you'll want the
biggest truck you can find simply for the comfort of having the trailer do
what its told.  Smaller trucks tend to "follow" the trailer more.

I've towed two GTs 3 times on 3 different kinds of trailers, one of which
was a U-Haul.

-Steve

On 7/3/07, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Kerbside weights (full tank plus all extras) range from 2303lb for an
> early
> roadster to 2529 for a late rubber bumper GT V8.  An early roadster
> unladen
> weight is given as 1920lb i.e. no fuel or extras.  Dry engine with clutch
> is
> 358lb for an early 3-bearing.  Gearbox is 78lb.  Rear axle 117.5lb for
> disc
> wheels, 123lb for wires.  Info from the Leyland Workshop Manual.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > I'm torn between renting the u-haul or buying, but I need to know weight
> > of car.
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Jul  3 07:18:17 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2007 09:18:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? And,
 a fateful tale of four  fenders
In-Reply-To: <070320070507.298.4689D996000E1F680000012A22165514069F030A9
	D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
References: <070320070507.298.4689D996000E1F680000012A22165514069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20070703133354.39B7E187A84@autox.team.net>

Eric,

They weighed my MGB GT V8 at the Brit car do at Townsend last 
year.  It weighted in total 2,353lbs.  (They weighed each wheel so I 
have almost perfect 50/50 distribution).


At 01:07 AM 7/3/2007, cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:
>Hello list.
>I'm thinking of buying a car carrier to carry the various projects to paint
>shop. I'll also use it to move in a few months.
>I'm torn between renting the u-haul or buying, but I need to know 
>weight of car.
>Can't read the plate on the 74.5. looks like ?803. I'm guessing 
>1803, but could
>be 2803lbs Maybe the bumpers weigh in at 1803lbs. The engines what, around
>750lbs? Probably 2803, but kindly check for me?
>
>Four fenders.
>When I bought the 1965MGB roadster, it came with four new fenders, 
>still in the
>bubble wrap. Moss fenders.
>I can fix what's already on the car with my welding device. And a B.F.H. :-)
>Anyone interested in buying fenders at a decent % of the moss price? 
>Trade for
>car hauler? I'm
>not sure where I'll park the car hauling trailer, but I'll manage.
>I am located in San Francisco Bay area.
>--
>Eric
>46 MGTC
>59 MGA
>65 MGB
>70 MGB
>71 MGB
>74.5 MGB
>00 Nissan X-Terra
>So many cars, so little parking
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From jello at ida.net  Tue Jul  3 10:15:37 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 10:15:37 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? And,
 a fateful tale of four   fenders
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707030557w4b89df3r6bca7b34ed5344e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <070320070507.298.4689D996000E1F680000012A22165514069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<00cf01c7bd4b$2e5863d0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<76664a460707030557w4b89df3r6bca7b34ed5344e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2532.209.180.80.45.1183479337.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

Let me tell you my U-Haul experience.  Now you have to keep in mind that
this was not planned, it was an emergency, and so U-haul may not have
exactly been prepared for this.

When my Porsche broke down (missing a piston when it finally stopped) I
hitched a ride to the nearest town - 27 miles south.  This was followed by
renting a U-haul car hauler.  I asked for  a come along, as I knew I
couldn't push the Porsche up, or drive it up.  The replay was go 60 miles
North to Wal-Mart.  So I did.  I got the car on the trailer, and headed
back.  Since the trailer says don't exceed 45 mph, I decided to take the
old highway roads rather than the freeway, and I went 55 because we all
think that 45 mph thing is a CYA tactic.  After 12 hours of driving I got
a motel and slept.  Got up in the morning, and headed off (across Colorado
on US40).  Bout 20 miles from the motel, I heard some noises.  One car
hauler tire was flat.  I pulled over.  Another one was smoking from bad
bearings, and was going to be flat soon.  So, someone happened along with
a cell phone, and I called U-haul.  They said I was in a bad location. 
That was true.  The guy with the cell phone said there was a phone at the
small town of Elk Springs, and I could leave the trailer, and drive 3
miles up there.  Good idea - I'd never think of that - I've never hauled
anything before.  U haul assured me that a replacement trailer was on it's
way from Grand Junction, CO, and it would be about 3 hours.  This was July
3 about 4 years ago - I was happy to get any help that day, with the 4h
the next day (and I think it was a weekend, but I don't remember).  Six
hours later the trailer came to me.

I swapped car hauling trailers, and headed to the freeway - that way when
it happened again, I'd not be in a "bad location."

All in all, it worked out - but the experience was no fun.  And I'm still
working on the porsche.

MG's have not been quite so bad, although I did have to tow one once too.

Phil


> If you are going to use it a few times, I would recommend getting your own
> trailer.  First, U-Haul will give you a fit unless you have the right
> truck,
> or you rent one of theirs.  U-Haul is notorious for causing great pains to
> renters, from long wait times with disgruntled staff that are overbooked
> from the toll free dispatch to difficult CYA rental policies.
>
> And if you have your own trailer, you'll get more use out of it than a
> pickup truck and you won't pay as much for it.  At 25xxlbs, you are just
> over the towing capacity of just about any car.   For short distances, I
> wouldn't worry about that at all, for long distances, you'll want the
> biggest truck you can find simply for the comfort of having the trailer do
> what its told.  Smaller trucks tend to "follow" the trailer more.
>
> I've towed two GTs 3 times on 3 different kinds of trailers, one of which
> was a U-Haul.
>
> -Steve
>
> On 7/3/07, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> Kerbside weights (full tank plus all extras) range from 2303lb for an
>> early
>> roadster to 2529 for a late rubber bumper GT V8.  An early roadster
>> unladen
>> weight is given as 1920lb i.e. no fuel or extras.  Dry engine with
>> clutch
>> is
>> 358lb for an early 3-bearing.  Gearbox is 78lb.  Rear axle 117.5lb for
>> disc
>> wheels, 123lb for wires.  Info from the Leyland Workshop Manual.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> > I'm torn between renting the u-haul or buying, but I need to know
>> weight
>> > of car.
>> _______________________________________________
>> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>>
>> Edit your replies
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> jello at ida.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  3 10:15:23 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2007 09:15:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? And,
 a fateful tale of four  fenders
In-Reply-To: <070320070507.298.4689D996000E1F680000012A22165514069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C2AFC42B.11479%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

If any car needs 4 fenders, it's my B. And I'm in the Bay Area, too. But I
need to look at the Moss price first -- I really don't have major operations
in my budget right now. But maybe...

I can't imagine that the B weighs much more than 2000 lbs., possibly less.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/2/07 10:07 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net at cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:

> Hello list.
> I'm thinking of buying a car carrier to carry the various projects to paint
> shop. I'll also use it to move in a few months.
> I'm torn between renting the u-haul or buying, but I need to know weight of
> car.
> Can't read the plate on the 74.5. looks like ?803. I'm guessing 1803, but
> could 
> be 2803lbs Maybe the bumpers weigh in at 1803lbs. The engines what, around
> 750lbs? Probably 2803, but kindly check for me?
> 
> Four fenders.
> When I bought the 1965MGB roadster, it came with four new fenders, still in
> the 
> bubble wrap. Moss fenders.
> I can fix what's already on the car with my welding device. And a B.F.H. :-)
> Anyone interested in buying fenders at a decent % of the moss price? Trade for
> car hauler? I'm 
> not sure where I'll park the car hauling trailer, but I'll manage.
> I am located in San Francisco Bay area.
> --
> Eric
> 46 MGTC
> 59 MGA
> 65 MGB
> 70 MGB
> 71 MGB
> 74.5 MGB
> 00 Nissan X-Terra
> So many cars, so little parking

From smarc at smarc.net  Tue Jul  3 11:08:55 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2007 13:08:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
Message-ID: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>

My new main harness has arrived from British Wiring. This will be my 
first experience changing out a harness...

My plan is this -

While removing the old harness, I will label each wire so as to have a 
reference to look back at.

Install new harness, hopefully there aren't too many 'mystery' wires.

When complete, I plan to put a 5 amp fuse in series with the battery for 
testing in case there are any shorts!

Any hints or tips gratefully received!

-- 
Marc

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Tue Jul  3 11:22:36 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 13:22:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
In-Reply-To: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <76664a460707031022s3b50d340g88b5f44f3b0a4fb2@mail.gmail.com>

Just my random thought on how I would approach this.

1.  Disco Battery
2.  Your original wiring harness is shot, so cut the wires (making sure you
know which side you are on before cutting).
3.  Run your new harness end to end still not touching any plugs.

Now, remove one plug at a time and plug the new wire of the right color in
as you go along.  I don't see how you could go wrong like this - and not
know it by having an extra connector dangling and a cut wire hanging around.

-= Steve

On 7/3/07, Marc <smarc at smarc.net> wrote:
>
> My new main harness has arrived from British Wiring. This will be my
> first experience changing out a harness...
>
> My plan is this -
>
> While removing the old harness, I will label each wire so as to have a
> reference to look back at.
>
> Install new harness, hopefully there aren't too many 'mystery' wires.
>
> When complete, I plan to put a 5 amp fuse in series with the battery for
> testing in case there are any shorts!
>
> Any hints or tips gratefully received!
>
> --
> Marc
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From smarc at smarc.net  Tue Jul  3 11:24:32 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2007 13:24:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707031022s3b50d340g88b5f44f3b0a4fb2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
	<76664a460707031022s3b50d340g88b5f44f3b0a4fb2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <468A8650.4020800@smarc.net>

Thats not a bad idea... ;-)

Marc



Steve wrote:
> Just my random thought on how I would approach this.
>
> 1.  Disco Battery
> 2.  Your original wiring harness is shot, so cut the wires (making sure you
> know which side you are on before cutting).
> 3.  Run your new harness end to end still not touching any plugs.
>
> Now, remove one plug at a time and plug the new wire of the right color in
> as you go along.  I don't see how you could go wrong like this - and not
> know it by having an extra connector dangling and a cut wire hanging around.
>
> -= Steve
>
> On 7/3/07, Marc <smarc at smarc.net> wrote:
>   
>> My new main harness has arrived from British Wiring. This will be my
>> first experience changing out a harness...
>>
>> My plan is this -
>>
>> While removing the old harness, I will label each wire so as to have a
>> reference to look back at.
>>
>> Install new harness, hopefully there aren't too many 'mystery' wires.
>>
>> When complete, I plan to put a 5 amp fuse in series with the battery for
>> testing in case there are any shorts!
>>
>> Any hints or tips gratefully received!
>>
>> --
>> Marc

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Tue Jul  3 11:33:59 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 12:33:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] New harness has arrived
Message-ID: <003901c7bd98$58a649c0$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

Assuming that the old harness has no value to you, don't just disconnect it.
Cut off each terminal, leaving a strand of wire, and leave it connected.  This
way, when you are connecting the news harness, yo can easily match colors and
connections.

Maynard

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  3 15:41:24 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 16:41:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] holiday nonsense - OT
References: <003901c7bd98$58a649c0$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>
Message-ID: <000f01c7bdba$f859f440$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

he who comes forth with a fifth on the fourth will not come forth on the 
fifth . . . 

From rgraham at sigecom.net  Tue Jul  3 17:42:34 2007
From: rgraham at sigecom.net (Ray Graham)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 18:42:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
In-Reply-To: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <000001c7bdcb$d814a1b0$ffd2453f@COMPUTER>

I also suggest that you take digital photos of the critical connections.
I know from experience they become very valuable.

Ray Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Marc
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 12:09 PM
To: MG Mailing List
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived

My new main harness has arrived from British Wiring. This will be my 
first experience changing out a harness...

My plan is this -

While removing the old harness, I will label each wire so as to have a 
reference to look back at.

Install new harness, hopefully there aren't too many 'mystery' wires.

When complete, I plan to put a 5 amp fuse in series with the battery for

testing in case there are any shorts!

Any hints or tips gratefully received!

-- 
Marc
_______________________________________________
rgraham at sigecom.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From Steve at shoyer.com  Tue Jul  3 21:20:25 2007
From: Steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 23:20:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
In-Reply-To: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B8D8@shoyerserver.shoyer.com>

You can cut the old harness where it passes through the firewall, then
pull the new one through (you might want to wrap it with a dry cleaning
bag to protect the wires from gunk, if you want to keep them clean).
The connectors on the harness will basically be in the right place for
each component, and you can pull one connector off at a time and replace
it with the new one as you move from the firewall out to each end.  It's
not too bad a job.

--Steve (1980 MGB)

-----Original Message-----
From: Marc
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 1:09 PM
To: MG Mailing List
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived

My new main harness has arrived from British Wiring. This will be my
first experience changing out a harness...

From smarc at smarc.net  Tue Jul  3 22:36:20 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2007 00:36:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
In-Reply-To: <97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B8D8@shoyerserver.shoyer.com>
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
	<97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B8D8@shoyerserver.shoyer.com>
Message-ID: <468B23C4.1010202@smarc.net>

I decided to cut each connector off the harness, leaving enough to ID 
each wire. That was an excellent and worthwhile suggestion! Very glad I 
asked for tips! Thanks to all who suggested that technique.

Working carefully, it took me about 45 minutes to remove the old 
harness, including taking some notes and digital pictures along the 
way.  I also compared things to the new harness as I went about removing 
the old harness.

While everything was out, I spent a few minutes cleaning the previously 
inaccessible areas. I got the new harness in place, and began  in the 
engine compartment at the firewall. Working my way around the harness, 
up to the lights and horns, across to the brake switches. A *lot* of 
time was spent cleaning the existing bullets and any connectors that 
were getting reused, applying dielectric grease and making sure 
connectors were snug. And of course the phone ringing seemingly every 5 
minutes all day...

The job isn't particularly difficult, just time consuming and a bit 
fiddly. Everything matched up and fit nicely, with only three "mystery 
wires", which I'll worry with (and ask about) later. Once that was 
complete, I decided to pull the wheel boxes since the dash was apart. 
They needed the old hard grease cleaned out, so spent some time R&R + 
cleaning and lubing them.

Next I began to put the harness in place in the dash board, which is 
about the time I had one of those "Oh Shit" moments - This new harness 
does NOT have the connector that goes to what I believe is the seat belt 
buzzer or time delay relay. It's a small black box, slightly larger then 
a relay, that mounts on the inside of the console. BTW, the car is an 80 
LE, car number 509353.

Total time so far - about 5 1/2 hours.

I had to quit working and clean up at that point, so I didn't have time 
to examine the differences between the harnesses. After stewing on it, 
I'm wondering if it's really even a problem??? The buzzer wasn't 
operable when I got the car, and I don't really want it, so unless there 
is some other interaction, perhaps it doesn't even matter?

Marc

From Rabeys at aol.com  Tue Jul  3 23:32:27 2007
From: Rabeys at aol.com (Rabeys at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 01:32:27 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] more midge probs
Message-ID: <c2e.174136e6.33bc8aeb@aol.com>

i can't win for losing with my car lately.  first car i bought 13  years 
ago...it frustrates me so badly i want to push it off a cliff somedays,  but 
heaven forbid a non British car owning person would ever say that to  me.  
 
i changed my oil the other day and it went so smoothly that i told myself  
surely something else will go wrong now.
 
my brakes went wrong, again.  i haven't bothered looking yet, because  i know 
i should just step back.  they seemed to be working just fine though  deep 
down i knew they need another bleeding.  i made it home from work safe  and 
sound, but when i wanted to go for a drive on this beautiful summer night,  my 
brakes went straight to the floor.  i fear that i saw a drop of fresh  brake 
fluid on my floor mat, but i can't be sure.  i checked the mc and the  brake line 
i replace and didnt notice any leak.  i need to recheck the mc  and pull the 
rubber piece up further.  my fear of course, is that the most  expensive part 
needs to be replaced again.  
 
i have not checked the rear cylinders.  as i said b4, i was having  trouble 
bleeding all the air out, but the pressure seemed good enough and it was  
staying, but now all of a sudden nothing.  i did notice that one of my  inner rear 
wheels was grimy and coated in something that leaked.  the  problem is, the 
car sat for awhile so i cant remember if its old grime from a  rear axle prob 
that has since been fixed and i never bothered cleaning it, or if  its fresh.  i 
will clean it up tomorrow and check the cylinders, but may  break down and 
just have a professional do it.
 
thoughts on where to start?  thinking rear cylinders first.  if i  dont see a 
leak should i bleed them again.  it just doesnt seem like it  will be as 
simple as bleeding them this time.  
 
frustrated as all hell...steph



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

From Rabeys at aol.com  Tue Jul  3 23:52:42 2007
From: Rabeys at aol.com (Rabeys at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 01:52:42 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
Message-ID: <c87.158f76cf.33bc8faa@aol.com>

man i wish i knew about this list when i re-wired my Midget.  i tore  the 
whole thing out, got the new one and followed the wiring diagram.  i  sent my 
vin# and all that to Moss.  i got the car started and was so sure  it was going 
to catch on fire that i couldnt get excited right away about my  success.  the 
one problem i had  was the charging circuit was missing  a wire...forgive me 
if i mess up my terminology.  my red ignition warning  lamp went on like it was 
supposed to but would not go back off.  i noticed  that the plug on the new 
harness for the altenator only had 2 wires but my old  one had 3. discovered a 
wire was missing from the altenator to the solenoid i  believe it was.  i 
connected a new one in and it was fine.
 
i also had the mystery wires and sometimes the harness wire color wouldnt  
match up with some of my lights.  was a process of elimination  sometimes.  my 
brother sent me a website that has been quite useful.   maybe it will help you 
too.  _http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html_ 
(http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html) .    It is a very simple table that tells what the colors of 
the wires mean.
 
I have also since learned to go over connections with more electric tape  
even though they have rubber connectors for the bullets and seem secure.  i  had 
a wire associated with the fuel pump corrode..something ground out and it  
fried my rear harness from the pump to underneath the dash where it connected  
with the main harness.  i never did tell my dad who was a passenger at that  
time.  i cant believe he didnt feel the heat or get set on fire!  im a  bad 
daughter.  he was just so proud at the time that i fixed it i couldnt  bare to tell 
him...  stephanie :)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Wed Jul  4 06:04:14 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 08:04:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG Mechanic LA Area
Message-ID: <005101c7be33$711e01f0$6501a8c0@RicksPC>

Can anyone in the Los Angeles area help David?
Please reply directly to him and not to me or the list.

Thanks Rick

----- Original Message -----
From: David Golbahar
To: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 22:43
Subject: MG Mechanic


Dear North America MG Register,



My uncle owns 2 MGs, I am looking to have one repaired.  It is a 1959 MGA.  We
have used some mechanics in the past, but they turned out to be untrustworthy;
they stole parts from the car.



I reside in Los Angeles, CA, and I was hoping to find a recommendation for a
responsible mechanic in the area.  I sincerely appreciate your assistance.





Kind regards,



David K. Golbahar





M.S. Accounting, 2007
University of Virginia



B.A. Sociology, 2006

University of Michigan



david.golbahar at gmail.com

(310) 666 - 1025

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul  4 06:46:14 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 13:46:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] more midge probs
References: <c2e.174136e6.33bc8aeb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00ff01c7be39$e1dfeab0$0200a8c0@Three>

Is the fluid level dropping in the master?  Make sure you haven't any leaks 
for a start.  But even with no visible leaks if the pedal slowly sinks to 
the floor, or goes straight to the floor, it means the master seals have had 
it.  I don't think it is worth repairing the older single-circuit metal 
reservoir masters, and certainly not slaves.

On an MGB the usual bleeding order is longest run first working towards the 
shortest.  Longest is the left-hand rear, as the rear flex hose is closer to 
the right.  Shortest would probably be front drivers side.  With both my Bs 
after conventional bleeding, even with a continual flow method like a 
Gunsons EeziBleed, the pedal is still long initially and pumps up with a few 
quick strokes, gong long again after just a few seconds.  I have to get 
someone to press hard on the pedal, while a rapidly open and shut each 
caliper nipple.  That always gets an extra lump or air out, and after that 
they are fine.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> thoughts on where to start?  thinking rear cylinders first. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul  4 06:38:32 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 13:38:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <00fe01c7be39$e1c0f100$0200a8c0@Three>

That's going to be a lot of labelling.  Most things fall out close by the 
component they attach to.  Probably more important is knowing which colour 
wire goes on which spade etc. of the component you are by.  As such it is 
probably more useful to cut the wires off the components leaving a couple of 
inches of coloured wire on each.

Depends on year, but some later harnesses have several in-line fuses.  The 
one I received had green connected to green and white/brown connected to 
white.  Sounds logical, but it had me scratching my head a bit, as 
white/brown should go to green in each case.

Pulling the old harness out rather than cutting it off at the firewall is 
good practice for getting the new one in.  Tape the various spurs of the 
main run in the engine compartment some forwards and some backwards, so as 
to end up with as even a thickness as possible.  Pull out back into the 
passenger compartment, and pull the new one in from the passenger 
compartment.  There is a double-skin at the firewall, put split tubing round 
the edges of both before pulling the new one in.

I fuse is a good idea before finally connecting the battery, in the ground 
cable as that should be the last thing you reconnect on completion of the 
job (and the first thing you disconnect before removal).  You may need more 
than 5 amps to test some circuits, one of the standard 17/25 amp will be 
fine for everything except cranking of course.  If the fuse *does* blow then 
connect a high-wattage 12v bulb in its place, like an old headlamp bulb. 
That will glow brightly while the short is on, and dimly or not at all when 
it isn't, which is a very useful diagnostic.  However whilst it will allow 
low-current circuits to work near normally, higher current ones won't work 
as brightly or as fast.

Use new bullet connectors at the front of the car at the very least, if not 
everywhere.  On the old harness I removed I found corrosion had run down the 
copper conductors of the headlight wires at the front of the car for a 
couple of feet.  The bullets on these are only crimped, and not spot-welded 
like spades, so I drilled a dimple in the end of each bullet to show shiny 
brass (bullet) and copper (conductors) and filled the dimple with solder. 
If you use a high-power iron briefly you won't damage the insulation. 
Polish the spades on components in the engine compartment, at least.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My new main harness has arrived from British Wiring. This will be my
> first experience changing out a harness...

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  4 07:49:17 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 08:49:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <0ed301c7be42$1f2bed80$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc" <smarc at smarc.net>
To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 12:08 PM
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived


My new main harness has arrived from British Wiring. This will be my
first experience changing out a harness...

My plan is this -

While removing the old harness, I will label each wire so as to have a
reference to look back at.

Install new harness, hopefully there aren't too many 'mystery' wires.

When complete, I plan to put a 5 amp fuse in series with the battery for
testing in case there are any shorts!

Any hints or tips gratefully received!

-- 
Marc
======================

Marc, as others have said, clip the old wires where they attach to each 
terminal/component.  However, before attaching the new harness, check each 
wire left on the car vs a wiring diagram.  I went through this with the 79 
LE I picked up cheap with a burnt and mangled harness.  There were a couple 
instances where it was wired wrong.  If you don't correct these, you will 
possibly repeat the original letting-out-of-the-smoke ceremony.  It won't 
take much extra time and could save you a big headache.

Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From dynajim at bellsouth.net  Wed Jul  4 09:01:08 2007
From: dynajim at bellsouth.net (dynajim)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 11:01:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Midge Problems
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAI+LiI/go9RMo5xUYByZfF3CgAAAEAAAAEcd+2mVeitCh5bLlNySqB4BAAAAAA==@bellsouth.net>

I Really Know How You Feel! These Little Cars Can Be a Pain! But Then That's
Part of the Attraction!

1st You Really Need 2 People! Or You Can Get a Large Container of Fluid and
Starting With the RT. Rear Wheel Hook a Plastic Tube to the Bleeder and
Stick the Other End Into the "Nearly" Full Container of Brake Fluid. Make
Sure Your MC is Full (of Course). Then Open the Bleeder and Pump the Brake a
Couple of Times. Go Back, Close the Bleeder and Go to the Left Rear and Do
it Again. Then to the Rt Frt. & So on. When Your Done Your Pedal Should Be
Just Fine! Hopefully, You Didn't Cross Thread the New Brake Line? If That's
What Happened.. Prob. Will Need a New Wheel Cyl.? If That's the Case. Do
Yourself a Favor and Replace Them Both. Ounce of Prevention and All.

Hope This Helps? Jim R.

 

 

 

'72 Midget

Most Everything New @ 1 Time or Another!

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul  4 09:31:05 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 16:31:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Midge Problems
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAI+LiI/go9RMo5xUYByZfF3CgAAAEAAAAEcd+2mVeitCh5bLlNySqB4BAAAAAA==@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <016201c7be50$fdac3110$0200a8c0@Three>

Nearly full?  Nah, that's just a waste.  Only needs to be 1/4" or so above 
the bottom of the tube.

(And what's with all the capitals?)

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Starting With the RT. Rear Wheel Hook a Plastic Tube to the Bleeder and
> Stick the Other End Into the "Nearly" Full Container of Brake Fluid.

From Rabeys at aol.com  Wed Jul  4 10:02:53 2007
From: Rabeys at aol.com (Rabeys at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 12:02:53 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <cb5.14d9e828.33bd1ead@aol.com>

i checked the rear cyclinders, and the rear driver's side one is bad.   i 
should have known, because the inner wheel was coated in grime as well as the  
drum etc and inside is also wet and gunky.  my own fault for not checking,  but 
sometimes i still have that wishful thinking that only one thing will be  
wrong at a time.  i just wasnt sure because the car sat about 9 months and  i kept 
thinking it  was old grime and probably from an old rear  differential 
problem.  i checked the other side and it's dry on the  outside.  not taking it off 
at this time because i see that a screw that  needs to come out is all messed 
up and i dont want to deal with that  today.  
 
i guess its just coincidence that they both went bad at the same  time?  i 
know for sure the MC was bad because it was dripping on me.   So far it seems 
ok...and "brim" was prob the wrong word to use when i said how I  filled it.  I 
usually fill it until the divider is covered for both  compartments but not to 
the very, very top. 
 
So I'm going to clean it up today, but I think it was Marc that reminded me  
of those pesky C clamps and I think those might drive me over the edge right  
now.  I just want to drive my damn car.  Have a feeling this  might be time 
for a professional.  Don't want to mess with my breaks.   Of course, I think I 
will be looking at some old receipts, because I would swear  I had some break 
work done when I had a new tranny put in.  Or maybe I just  dont want to know!  
 
Thanks, Steph



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Wed Jul  4 10:09:43 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 17:09:43 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF645@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

On MGBs at least, brand new rear brake cylinders are dirt cheap, and
pretty straightforward to replace.  I'd imagine it was similar for
Midgets.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

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From smarc at smarc.net  Wed Jul  4 10:51:28 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2007 12:51:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF645@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF645@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <468BD010.2060606@smarc.net>

I just replaced the wheel cylinders on my 73 midget this week. The 
supplied C-clips are larger then the oem clips. They can be a little 
challenging, but the issue I found was that they are large enough that 
they partially obstruct the bleeder hole. I found it necessary to grind 
a small relief in the the clip so that the bleeder could be installed.

Marc



Gosling, Richard wrote:
> On MGBs at least, brand new rear brake cylinders are dirt cheap, and
> pretty straightforward to replace.  I'd imagine it was similar for
> Midgets.
>
>
> Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

From Rabeys at aol.com  Wed Jul  4 11:34:45 2007
From: Rabeys at aol.com (Rabeys at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 13:34:45 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <d12.c1f4a56.33bd3435@aol.com>

i think i will run her in maybe tomorrow.  shop isnt far and he has  always 
been helpful and trustworthy.  tried to adjust the parking  brake because it 
just goes straight up and doesnt engage.  goes past all  those notches.  when i 
had a friend pull on the brake, i could see it  moving things like it should.  
everything seems to be connected.  i  looked in book to see how to adjust it, 
but im just not getting it.  is it  possible i need to adjust the hand brake 
itself.  i looked at it and its  not clear to me just looking at it.  ill 
check the book again, but anyone  off hand know what the deal is?



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jul  4 12:16:42 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 14:16:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <20070704.141642.3128.5.MGBOB@juno.com>

    It's best to go by the book for adjustment of handbrake, but here's
how one does it, at least for MGBs and TDs:
    Adjust the service brake, as tight as possible w/o dragging.
    Tighten the cable adjuster(s) until the handle pulls up to lock
brakes on the proper click.

    This always works on TDs.  It should work on MGBs, but if there is
much wear on the linkage inside the drum, there won't be sufficient
adjustment in the cable to get the hand brake working properly.  
Sometimes the new linkage pieces will solve the problem, but at least one
member of our club has found the new ones to be less useful than the worn
ones they were to replace.  He welded metal onto the worn area of the old
ones, then ground down to make the handbrake work right.
    Once the handbrake is in adjustment, it should work correctly as long
as the service brakes are adjusted right.  Well, it "should". 
Bob

    R
On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 13:34:45 EDT Rabeys at aol.com writes:
> i think i will run her in maybe tomorrow.  shop isnt far and he has  
> always 
> been helpful and trustworthy.  tried to adjust the parking  brake 
> because it 
> just goes straight up and doesnt engage.  goes past all  those 
> notches.  when i 
> had a friend pull on the brake, i could see it  moving things like 
> it should.  
> everything seems to be connected.  i  looked in book to see how to 
> adjust it, 
> but im just not getting it.  is it  possible i need to adjust the 
> hand brake 
> itself.  i looked at it and its  not clear to me just looking at it. 
>  ill 
> check the book again, but anyone  off hand know what the deal is?

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed Jul  4 13:01:57 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 21:01:57 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] New harness has arrived
References: <003901c7bd98$58a649c0$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>
Message-ID: <003501c7be6d$cb98a600$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Check all bullit connectors which are lose and get these soldered.
Also verify the black things where the bullits are fitting into.
Many of these will show metal fatigue.
When you have the chance get these replaced anyway.
It will prevent poor contact problems in the future.

Cheers,

Hans

1971 BGT



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch at netzero.net>
To: "MG" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] New harness has arrived


> Assuming that the old harness has no value to you, don't just disconnect 
> it.
> Cut off each terminal, leaving a strand of wire, and leave it connected. 
> This
> way, when you are connecting the news harness, yo can easily match colors 
> and
> connections.
>
> Maynard

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Jul  4 13:32:16 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 12:32:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <20070704.141642.3128.5.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20070704.141642.3128.5.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200707041232k12039acbwa70d453e84fada6a@mail.gmail.com>

I think you missed the first step, which is to make sure that the rear
brakes are properly adjusted before attempting to adjust the
handbrake.

Regards,
Simon

On 7/4/07, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
>     It's best to go by the book for adjustment of handbrake, but here's
> how one does it, at least for MGBs and TDs:
>     Adjust the service brake, as tight as possible w/o dragging.
>     Tighten the cable adjuster(s) until the handle pulls up to lock
> brakes on the proper click.
>
>     This always works on TDs.  It should work on MGBs, but if there is
> much wear on the linkage inside the drum, there won't be sufficient
> adjustment in the cable to get the hand brake working properly.
> Sometimes the new linkage pieces will solve the problem, but at least one
> member of our club has found the new ones to be less useful than the worn
> ones they were to replace.  He welded metal onto the worn area of the old
> ones, then ground down to make the handbrake work right.
>     Once the handbrake is in adjustment, it should work correctly as long
> as the service brakes are adjusted right.  Well, it "should".
> Bob
>
>     R
> On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 13:34:45 EDT Rabeys at aol.com writes:
> > i think i will run her in maybe tomorrow.  shop isnt far and he has
> > always
> > been helpful and trustworthy.  tried to adjust the parking  brake
> > because it
> > just goes straight up and doesnt engage.  goes past all  those
> > notches.  when i
> > had a friend pull on the brake, i could see it  moving things like
> > it should.
> > everything seems to be connected.  i  looked in book to see how to
> > adjust it,
> > but im just not getting it.  is it  possible i need to adjust the
> > hand brake
> > itself.  i looked at it and its  not clear to me just looking at it.
> >  ill
> > check the book again, but anyone  off hand know what the deal is?
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From Rabeys at aol.com  Wed Jul  4 14:09:27 2007
From: Rabeys at aol.com (Rabeys at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 16:09:27 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com>

it is the part i'm adjusting that i'm not sure about. the wording in the  
book is not clear to me.  i see the piece that is in the center where the  hand 
brake cable comes into it.  it looks like a prong and then a piece  goes 
through it and you connect it with a pin.  (damn i wish i could ever  remember the 
proper terminology).  does that make sense...and then from  that center piece 
each side goes off to the breaks.  i took the pin  out which disconnects the 
hand brake entirely.  i have since put it back  together because i didnt see how 
i could adjust it from there.  or am i  just supposed to tighten something 
with a wrench, but i don't see anything that  makes sense.  the book said put 
the hand brake on the 3rd notch, and  mentioned doing the rear brakes etc.
 
the only thing im trying to accomplish at this point is getting the hand  
brake to work enough to safely go the few blocks i need to go to get to the  
mechanic.  after cleaning and taking things apart, it feels like i have  enough 
pressure to travel the back roads to get there, just wanted a little xtra  
stopping power. is it still possible to do the hand brake without  adjusting the 
rear brakes for that purpose? 



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Wed Jul  4 14:29:12 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2007 20:29:12 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? cont.
Message-ID: <070420072029.11892.468C0318000A4A3D00002E7422155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hello list.
Thank all of you for your responses.
Concensus seems to be the weight of car is near 2,500lbs.  I'll have to go with 
the 280Xlbs number.
     Trailer advice points towards a dual axle, elect. brake flat bed.(because 
car will be stripped down and illegal for even touching the sacred streets of 
California without license, lights, windshield). Aluminum trailer preferred, but 
the cheapest I could find one in this area was $4850.00. Ouch!
I also hear the horror stories of Uhauls. I will seek used aluminum and steel 
trailers. I can overhaul the bearings, brakes , lights, tires  before I use. 
Hopefully not surpassing the price of a new trailer as I do so.
My Mig welder says it will weld aluminum.(reverse polarity, aluminum wire) I 
wonder if I can build a trailer from a kit? 
My Nissan towing capacity is 3500 lbs unladen for manual, 5000 lbs unladen for 
an automatic .It doesn't say what the average wing velocity is for an unladen 
swallow. 
African or European.  
I suspect that Nissans lower weight capacity is for clutch 
warantee, but I don't think the highway parol will give me a break on that,  
since mine is a manual transmission, But I'll check, since even an aluminum 
trailer with MG would put me over 3500lbs, though I'm not calculating stripped 
down weight. No engine, transmission, interior, windshield,Gigantibumpers on 
74.5, Lights, spare, jack, fuel.
I plan on setting up electric winch to pull car onto trailer, since it won't 
drive up.
-----------------
Fate of four fenders still undecided
#s are
457-340    
HZA4224 LH F

457-360
HZA410? RH F

457-150
hza4225 LH R

457-130
H2A4224 RH R.

Also included at no additional cost!!
 two sills, outer, lower. 
LH OE 457-150 
RH OE 457-160

some error may have occurred in my number transcription. No warrantee expressed 
or implied with these numbers, parts, or bubble wrap. Blah blah blah.

--
Eric
46 MGTC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra 5-speed.
So many cars, so little parking

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Wed Jul  4 14:58:20 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 15:58:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] New harness has arrived
Message-ID: <002501c7be7e$0ef78e10$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

One other thing.  WHen you are connecting the bullets, especially in areas
exposed to the elements, use a little dialectric grease to prevent corrosion.

Maynard

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jul  4 14:59:07 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 16:59:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <20070704.170038.3128.6.MGBOB@juno.com>

   The action of the handbrake is very much dependant on the service
brakes being adjusted correctly.  The hand brake doesn't have much
take-up, so the rear brakes must be set right if the hand brake is to
work at all.  Get plenty of slack in the handbrake cable ( sounds as if
you have it because the adjuster is disconnected ) and do the adjustment
on the rear brakes.  Then come back and get the cable set up as best you
can. 
   It sounds as though the cable has stretched a bit and that the
adjustor (prong & piece thing) doesn't have enough adjustment left in it.
 
   If the cable is not slack and the rear brakes are out of adjustment,
you will have a difficult time adjusting the rear brakes with their
adjuster because the handbrake's tension on the cable is upsetting
things.    I spent a couple of hours puzzling over this once, before I
figured out that the cable was stuck on one side and tightened
excessively on the other side---couldn't get the service brakes to adjust
and couldn't figure out why.  Once everything is working correctly it's
obvious,  but it is not at all obvious the first time you do it. 
  Are your adjusters the little square-head bolt-like things that have a
cone-shape on end that enters the brake anchor point?   The steel threads
can get stuck in the aluminium anchor and make turning rather difficult. 
If that has happened to your car, you will probably find it easiest to
remove the drums, apply penetrant to the few exposed threads, put a bit
of heat onto the anchor point, and work the adjuster around until it
turns easily.  The put the drums back on and turn the adjuster to lock
the drum. Loosen as necessary to get acceptable free rotation. 
  Be of good cheer--you can get it to work, more or less.
Bob


 
On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 16:09:27 EDT Rabeys at aol.com writes:
> it is the part i'm adjusting that i'm not sure about. the wording in 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Jul  4 15:16:22 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 14:16:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? cont.
In-Reply-To: <070420072029.11892.468C0318000A4A3D00002E7422155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
References: <070420072029.11892.468C0318000A4A3D00002E7422155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10707041416v715cf318v5f76b7b36d0d7735@mail.gmail.com>

At those prices you might want to check out a Serpent Express
http://www.serpentexpress.com/
Rick

On 7/4/07, cyberemp at comcast.net <cyberemp at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hello list.
> Thank all of you for your responses.
> Concensus seems to be the weight of car is near 2,500lbs.  I'll have to go
> with
> the 280Xlbs number.
>      Trailer advice points towards a dual axle, elect. brake flat
> bed.(because
> car will be stripped down and illegal for even touching the sacred streets
> of
> California without license, lights, windshield). Aluminum trailer
> preferred, but
> the cheapest I could find one in this area was $4850.00. Ouch!
> I also hear the horror stories of Uhauls. I will seek used aluminum and
> steel
> trailers. I can overhaul the bearings, brakes , lights, tires  before I
> use.
> Hopefully not surpassing the price of a new trailer as I do so.
> My Mig welder says it will weld aluminum.(reverse polarity, aluminum wire)
> I
> wonder if I can build a trailer from a kit?
> My Nissan towing capacity is 3500 lbs unladen for manual, 5000 lbs unladen
> for
> an automatic .It doesn't say what the average wing velocity is for an
> unladen
> swallow.
> African or European.
> I suspect that Nissans lower weight capacity is for clutch
> warantee, but I don't think the highway parol will give me a break on
> that,
> since mine is a manual transmission, But I'll check, since even an
> aluminum
> trailer with MG would put me over 3500lbs, though I'm not calculating
> stripped
> down weight. No engine, transmission, interior, windshield,Gigantibumpers
> on
> 74.5, Lights, spare, jack, fuel.
> I plan on setting up electric winch to pull car onto trailer, since it
> won't
> drive up.
> -----------------
> Fate of four fenders still undecided
> #s are
> 457-340
> HZA4224 LH F
>
> 457-360
> HZA410? RH F
>
> 457-150
> hza4225 LH R
>
> 457-130
> H2A4224 RH R.
>
> Also included at no additional cost!!
> two sills, outer, lower.
> LH OE 457-150
> RH OE 457-160
>
> some error may have occurred in my number transcription. No warrantee
> expressed
> or implied with these numbers, parts, or bubble wrap. Blah blah blah.
>
> --
> Eric
> 46 MGTC
> 59 MGA
> 65 MGB
> 70 MGB
> 71 MGB
> 74.5 MGB
> 00 Nissan X-Terra 5-speed.
> So many cars, so little parking
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  4 15:36:45 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2007 14:36:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] hub and brake rebuild
Message-ID: <737377.76335.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
   This morning I got the left front hub parts cleaned
and ready for reassembly.  Here's a look,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/LeftFrontHubParts.jpg . 
Still to do is the clean-up of the stub axle and
associated parts,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/LeftFrontStubAxleBefore.jpg .

Regards,

rick

From wbmcleod at cox.net  Wed Jul  4 16:10:31 2007
From: wbmcleod at cox.net (William McLeod)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2007 15:10:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB
Message-ID: <468C1AD7.5050001@cox.net>

Would Arundell from Australia contact me please?  My ISP managed to 
delete my entire email history, including mail about a 1980 MGB.  
Thanks, Bill, Tucson, AZ

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  4 20:39:37 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2007 19:39:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <cb5.14d9e828.33bd1ead@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2B1A7F9.1152D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Actually, it is very typical for more than one hydraulic component to fail
at the same time. Maybe it's because all the rubber parts have a similar
working lifetime, maybe it's because they were all subject to the same
stresses and environmental factors, or maybe because someone topped off with
the wrong fluid. But if a wheel cylinder goes bad, I replace both, and the
rear hose, and inspect the rest of the system. If I'm replacing the MC, I
replace all the hoses, and inspect the rest. It's just the way it goes...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/4/07 9:02 AM, Rabeys at aol.com at Rabeys at aol.com wrote:

> i checked the rear cyclinders, and the rear driver's side one is bad.   i
> should have known, because the inner wheel was coated in grime as well as the
> drum etc and inside is also wet and gunky.  my own fault for not checking,
> but 
> sometimes i still have that wishful thinking that only one thing will be
> wrong at a time.  i just wasnt sure because the car sat about 9 months and  i
> kept 
> thinking it  was old grime and probably from an old rear  differential
> problem.  i checked the other side and it's dry on the  outside.  not taking
> it off 
> at this time because i see that a screw that  needs to come out is all messed
> up and i dont want to deal with that  today.
>  
> i guess its just coincidence that they both went bad at the same  time?  i
> know for sure the MC was bad because it was dripping on me.   So far it seems
> ok...and "brim" was prob the wrong word to use when i said how I  filled it.
> I 
> usually fill it until the divider is covered for both  compartments but not to
> the very, very top.
>  
> So I'm going to clean it up today, but I think it was Marc that reminded me
> of those pesky C clamps and I think those might drive me over the edge right
> now.  I just want to drive my damn car.  Have a feeling this  might be time
> for a professional.  Don't want to mess with my breaks.   Of course, I think I
> will be looking at some old receipts, because I would swear  I had some break
> work done when I had a new tranny put in.  Or maybe I just  dont want to know!
>  
> Thanks, Steph

From smarc at smarc.net  Wed Jul  4 23:38:56 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 01:38:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
In-Reply-To: <468B23C4.1010202@smarc.net>
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net>
	<97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B8D8@shoyerserver.shoyer.com>
	<468B23C4.1010202@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <468C83F0.3030002@smarc.net>

I solved the mystery of the missing connector once I started to finish 
the wiring inside the car. All the wires are present in the new harness, 
but terminated on a molex connector. In a small plastic bag attached to 
the new harness I found a matching molex connector and pins to mate with 
it. I guess that connector was no longer available. You cut it off the 
old harness, install the pins, snap them into the supplied molex 
connector and plug it all in. No documentation was supplied with the 
harness however.

One other issue is that until today I had not yet connected up the 
branch that goes to the starter. Did that this afternoon and discovered 
this harness doesn't have  the white/green that goes to a terminal on 
the solenoid. I'm pretty sure it's function is to supply full battery 
(ballast bypass) voltage to the coil while starting.

So we set the dash in place with no bolts yet, hooking up all the 
remaining connections. Then I hooked up my battery charger to the 
battery wires, and set it on the two amp setting and began testing. Each 
thing I tested worked, and no problems were found. So I hooked up the 
battery and turned the key. It cranked, and in spite of the fact that I 
had not hooked up the choke cable yet (and the lack of ballast bypass) 
it started up!

Still have a lot of stuff to do, actually need to take the dash back out 
so I can install the defroster vents. The grilles had some rust spots on 
them, so I bead blasted and re-sprayed them. But I could get it buttoned 
up in the next day or two if I can manage enough time!


Marc


>
> Next I began to put the harness in place in the dash board, which is 
> about the time I had one of those "Oh Shit" moments - This new harness 
> does NOT have the connector that goes to what I believe is the seat belt 
> buzzer or time delay relay. It's a small black box, slightly larger then 
> a relay, that mounts on the inside of the console. BTW, the car is an 80 
> LE, car number 509353.
>
> Total time so far - about 5 1/2 hours.
>
> I had to quit working and clean up at that point, so I didn't have time 
> to examine the differences between the harnesses. After stewing on it, 
> I'm wondering if it's really even a problem??? The buzzer wasn't 
> operable when I got the car, and I don't really want it, so unless there 
> is some other interaction, perhaps it doesn't even matter?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 04:07:14 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 11:07:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com>
Message-ID: <008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three>

The shoes are adjusted at each back-plate - the threaded stud with the 
square end sticking out, near the top.  That affects both foot and 
hand-brake.  When you have that adjusted correctly you will feel and hear a 
little rubbing but it shouldn't drag.  But the final arbiter is what it does 
when driving.  Feel the drums after a couple of miles of free running (i.e. 
not heavy braking) and they may well feel a little warm but not be hot.  If 
hot back them off one flat.  When they are right the handbrake cable is 
adjusted by the special nut on the stud under the tunnel right by the cabin 
lever.  Whilst you can alter the handbrake adjustment without having done 
the shoes first, it will cause problems later when the shoes *are* adjusted, 
unless the mechanic knows you have done that and backed the handbrake 
adjustment off again.  But unless you need to do hill starts in the few 
blocks, the handbrake wouldn't normally be used except at either end.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> it is the part i'm adjusting that i'm not sure about. the wording in the
> book is not clear to me. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 04:14:34 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 11:14:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] New harness has arrived
References: <002501c7be7e$0ef78e10$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>
Message-ID: <00ad01c7beef$0f1df070$0200a8c0@Three>

Good point, and it reminds me of another one more thing.  When assembling 
the bullet connectors make sure they are fully pushed in.  With the fingers 
they will go in so far and seem to stop, and the back of the bullet may be 
just inside the insulated tube, but that isn't far enough.  They need a 
further push to get them over a 'pip' inside the connector, which is what 
latches into the ring near the head of the bullet, and stops it coming out. 
I cut a notch in the end of the handles of a pair of pliers just big enough 
to slip over the wire, but small enough to press on the back of the bullet 
when the handles are squeezed together.  This pushes both sides in at the 
same time for single connectors, and also the 'odd man out' where there are 
only three bullets in a double connector.  See 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_electricsframe.htm
click on 'Bad Connections', and scroll down a little way to the first 
thumbnail.  The grease (any can be used, or Vaseline) also makes assembly 
easier.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
 One other thing.  WHen you are connecting the bullets, especially in areas
> exposed to the elements, use a little dialectric grease to prevent 
> corrosion.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 04:28:32 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 11:28:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net><97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B8D8@shoyerserver.shoyer.com><468B23C4.1010202@smarc.net>
	<468C83F0.3030002@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <003801c7bf07$76027fa0$0200a8c0@Three>

It should do, the bypass circuit really only comes into play under adverse 
conditions and poor state of tune.  If you have the original solenoid with 
the extra spade you can simply add the wire, or if the solenoid doesn't have 
the spade you can replicate the function with a relay, or if you know what 
you are doing a diode.

The time delay unit and its predecessor (the sequential system that 
interrupted the starter circuit) go back to 74 so it sounds like you have a 
harness for a different market, as I'd expect there to be more differences 
if it were for a US car earlier than that!  If that is the plug is the only 
difference it shouldn't have any knock-on effects.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... So I hooked up the
> battery and turned the key. It cranked, and in spite of the fact that I
> had not hooked up the choke cable yet (and the lack of ballast bypass)
> it started up!

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  5 07:46:34 2007
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 09:46:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Front shock replacement
Message-ID: <BAY125-W8080E48B66D7A86B8E88EBF020@phx.gbl>

Hi all,
Can anyone suggest a replacement for the SPAX front tube shock?  My 70 B has
the SPAX conversion kit installed and now I need to replace those worn out
shocks but would rather use a Monroe or KONI.  If somebody has the part number
for either of these shocks I'd really appreciate it.


Thanks,
Tuck

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 08:02:09 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 15:02:09 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG
Message-ID: <005601c7bf0d$c86f35c0$0200a8c0@Three>

Having owned my roadster for about 17 years, and the V8 for 12 years, I've 
been waiting to get my hands on a ZS 180 (2.5 litre V6, 175 bhp, 177 ft lb, 
0-60 7.3s, 139 mph) since I test-drove one not long after they were launched 
in 2001, to near universal acclaim from the usually cynical and MG 
Rover-knocking motoring journalists.  Finally, through a relative in the 
trade, a really good one popped up and I've bought it.  This one really did 
have my name on it, its registration includes my three initials - albeit in 
reverse order.  Now the long-suffering Navigator can spend some time at 
least in climate controlled, leather seated luxury.  The car is a 2004 
face-lift model with the much improved frontal styling and interior.  When 
these first came out I wasn't keen on the rear styling as it is rather 
heavy, but I don't even mind that anymore :o)

PaulH. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 08:14:03 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 15:14:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Front shock replacement
References: <BAY125-W8080E48B66D7A86B8E88EBF020@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <006a01c7bf0f$e2aa1340$0200a8c0@Three>

At the 2nd replacement of my rears I'd had enough and went back to 
lever-arms.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Can anyone suggest a replacement for the SPAX front tube shock? 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 08:59:57 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 15:59:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Midget 1500
Message-ID: <007f01c7bf16$34ccc810$0200a8c0@Three>

Just by way of a change I've recently changed the head gasket on a friends 
Midget 1500 (see the full tale at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/midgebits.htm)

A couple of days later and on the way to an MOT (annual test) it starts 
running really badly, and Keith limps it home.  When I get there and start 
it up it runs fine for a few moments, then obviously starts running on 3 
cylinders.  Clipped the timing
light onto the coil lead and each plug lead but everything is flashing as it 
should be.  Quite by chance I pulled No.3
HT off the distributor cap and it made no difference - i.e. that was the 
faulty cylinder.  Not believing the chances of
that I replaced it and pulled the others off one-by-one, but no it was 
definitely No.3.  Held near the cap No.3 lead
sparked just as all the others did, so that and the timing light flashing 
told me the rotor and cap were OK.  Removed
the plug and it was fouled.  Replaced it (with a used plug) and it fired up 
OK, but after a few seconds started firing
on 3 again.  Tried another used plug and that was the same.  By now I'm 
beginning to fear the worst and suspect a
sticking valve.  There is no popping in the intake so it must be an exhaust, 
but for *that* to be affecting
running it has to be sticking a fair way through the induction stroke, at 
least.  But looking at the valve spring it seems to be doing exactly the 
same as all the others, and the rocker is showing no signs of excessive
looseness.  It isn't tight either, for although the gap has closed up 
somewhat because the engine is hot (they were set
to 10 thou cold) there still *is* a gap, and is much the same as the other 
valves.

Then I have a brain-wave and realise I can use the adjustable timing light 
to 'freeze' the valve (low ambient light levels), by connecting the light to 
a suitable plug lead and varying the timing control.  Indeed this is exactly 
what happens, and by varying the control I can freeze the valve anywhere 
between fully up and fully down.  No.3 is regular and consistent, and the 
timing the same as the other exhaust valves, so I'm beginning to doubt my 
diagnosis.  As a further test I press down on the top of the spring cap with 
a screwdriver, and lever up under the upper turns of the spring, thinking 
that if it *is* a
sticking valve one or other of these tests should have some effect, but 
neither did.  Then all of a sudden it started
firing on 4 cylinders again.  Thinking that possibly this was because the 
valve cover had been off a while, and the top
of the valves might be a bit cooler and it had stopped sticking, we replaced 
the cover.  The engine continued to run
perfectly for several minutes even being revved hard, on a short test-drive, 
and a drive of about 20 miles or so next
day.  So at the moment it remains a mystery.

One thing that did occur to me subsequently was that with the plug being 
fouled, wouldn't that mean it wasn't firing?  I.e. no HT reaching the plug 
(we'd tried three plugs remember) despite it leaving the cap and going into 
the lead.  If it *is* firing with a sticking valve wouldn't that keep the 
plug clean even though the effect of combustion is lost?   Also another test 
I could have done while it was running on 3 was listen to the misfire in the 
exhaust while Keith alternately removed and replaced the plug lead for that 
cylinder.  If it *was* firing, but the exhaust valve was sticking open, the 
misfire would surely make a very different sound with the plug connected to 
when it wasn't.  Whereas if the problem was simply that the plug wasn't 
firing, there would be no change in the sound between connected and 
disconnected.

Comments?  Suggestions?

PaulH.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 09:11:11 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 10:11:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG
In-Reply-To: <005601c7bf0d$c86f35c0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <005601c7bf0d$c86f35c0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <23BF8A66-6E21-4009-A31F-8B9C5B9C1542@gmail.com>

That's cool. Congratulations!

I know it's heracy to say on this list. But, I hope the Nanjing MG  
comes to America. I'll be in the market for a car
in 2009 or so (when my oldest turns 16, he can have the Subaru).


Paul.


On Jul 5, 2007, at 9:02 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Having owned my roadster for about 17 years, and the V8 for 12  
> years, I've been waiting to get my hands on a ZS 180 (2.5 litre V6,  
> 175 bhp, 177 ft lb, 0-60 7.3s, 139 mph) since I test-drove one not  
> long after they were launched in 2001, to near universal acclaim  
> from the usually cynical and MG Rover-knocking motoring  
> journalists.  Finally, through a relative in the trade, a really  
> good one popped up and I've bought it.  This one really did have my  
> name on it, its registration includes my three initials - albeit in  
> reverse order.  Now the long-suffering Navigator can spend some  
> time at least in climate controlled, leather seated luxury.  The  
> car is a 2004 face-lift model with the much improved frontal  
> styling and interior.  When these first came out I wasn't keen on  
> the rear styling as it is rather heavy, but I don't even mind that  
> anymore :o)
>
> PaulH.


Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
77 MGB
99 OBS

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 09:52:07 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 10:52:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Midget 1500
In-Reply-To: <007f01c7bf16$34ccc810$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <007f01c7bf16$34ccc810$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C95C7A4D-3BB8-4A39-9EBC-AA1DF1920385@gmail.com>

Seems to me, that sticking open, it wouldn't have compression and
so it wouldn't get a good complete burn, thus leaving stuff in the  
cylinder to
foul the plug. Building up over time.

But I'm just guess.

BTW, great idea on watching the exhaust valve with the timing light.

On Jul 5, 2007, at 9:59 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>
> One thing that did occur to me subsequently was that with the plug  
> being
> fouled, wouldn't that mean it wasn't firing?  I.e. no HT reaching  
> the plug
> (we'd tried three plugs remember) despite it leaving the cap and  
> going into
> the lead.  If it *is* firing with a sticking valve wouldn't that  
> keep the
> plug clean even though the effect of combustion is lost?   Also  
> another test
> I could have done while it was running on 3 was listen to the  
> misfire in the
> exhaust while Keith alternately removed and replaced the plug lead  
> for that
> cylinder.  If it *was* firing, but the exhaust valve was sticking  
> open, the
> misfire would surely make a very different sound with the plug  
> connected to
> when it wasn't.  Whereas if the problem was simply that the plug  
> wasn't
> firing, there would be no change in the sound between connected and
> disconnected.
>
> Comments?  Suggestions?
>
> PaulH.

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
77 MGB
99 OBS

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul  5 10:50:21 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 12:50:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG
In-Reply-To: <23BF8A66-6E21-4009-A31F-8B9C5B9C1542@gmail.com>
References: <005601c7bf0d$c86f35c0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<23BF8A66-6E21-4009-A31F-8B9C5B9C1542@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20070705165133.5D5A3187A01@autox.team.net>

Paul,

I appreciate the desire to go MG but to me the soul will not be 
there.  I would rather buy a Miata, prise off the badges and stick MG 
ones on - Having suffered from Chinese made stuff I just wonder what 
the car will be like. Stuff is actually getting worse - I am into my 
4th Cuisinart percolator this year already and 50% of my 
auto-electronics has gone manual.   I will predict that Lucas will 
look like the rock of Gibraltar when the Rhucas electric gear comes 
out with the "MG".



At 11:11 AM 7/5/2007, Paul Root wrote:
>That's cool. Congratulations!
>
>I know it's heracy to say on this list. But, I hope the Nanjing MG
>comes to America. I'll be in the market for a car
>in 2009 or so (when my oldest turns 16, he can have the Subaru).
>
>
>Paul.
>
>
>On Jul 5, 2007, at 9:02 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>
> > Having owned my roadster for about 17 years, and the V8 for 12
> > years, I've been waiting to get my hands on a ZS 180 (2.5 litre V6,
> > 175 bhp, 177 ft lb, 0-60 7.3s, 139 mph) since I test-drove one not
> > long after they were launched in 2001, to near universal acclaim
> > from the usually cynical and MG Rover-knocking motoring
> > journalists.  Finally, through a relative in the trade, a really
> > good one popped up and I've bought it.  This one really did have my
> > name on it, its registration includes my three initials - albeit in
> > reverse order.  Now the long-suffering Navigator can spend some
> > time at least in climate controlled, leather seated luxury.  The
> > car is a 2004 face-lift model with the much improved frontal
> > styling and interior.  When these first came out I wasn't keen on
> > the rear styling as it is rather heavy, but I don't even mind that
> > anymore :o)
> >
> > PaulH.
>
>
>Paul Root
>ptrmgb at gmail.com
>77 MGB
>99 OBS
>
>///
>///  mgb-v8 at autox.team.net mailing list
>///  Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net
>///  Send list postings to mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
>///  Edit your replies!  If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
>///

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Jul  5 13:51:16 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 12:51:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? cont.
In-Reply-To: <070420072029.11892.468C0318000A4A3D00002E7422155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C64D5C8@kb1.mossmotors.com>

If you are planning on towing with a Nissan SUV, take a look at rear air
bags which are installed inside the springs. This is a recommended
upgrade that we are planning on doing soon to my wife's Pathfinder.

The Nissan has a lot of rear suspension travel which makes it unsuitable
for any kind of tongue weight without additional spring support. Every
time the trailer goes over a bump it's going to compress and extend the
rear suspension pretty dramatically. The air bags are reasonably priced
and give additional load support.

Just 'cos the factory says you can tow a certain weight doesn't mean
it's going to be comfortable.

On the trailer issue. I've towed lots of British sports cars on a single
axle utility trailer. Mine has a couple of holes in the tongue that I
can bolt an electric winch to which makes loading and unloading a one
person job.

A tandem axle with brakes is nice and lots safer, but is a bit overkill
if it is only to be used once in a while.

I love my tandem axle enclosed trailer, but the last three tows I've
made have been my TR8 and to pick up an MGA coupe and a GT6+, all of
which were on the single axle. I towed the TR8 with my wife's Pathfinder
quite happily across town.



Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of cyberemp at comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 1:29 PM
> To: MG LIST
> Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? cont.
>
> Hello list.
> Thank all of you for your responses.
> Concensus seems to be the weight of car is near 2,500lbs.  I'll have
to go
> with
> the 280Xlbs number.
>      Trailer advice points towards a dual axle, elect. brake flat
> bed.(because
> car will be stripped down and illegal for even touching the sacred
streets
> of
> California without license, lights, windshield). Aluminum trailer
> preferred, but
> the cheapest I could find one in this area was $4850.00. Ouch!
> I also hear the horror stories of Uhauls. I will seek used aluminum
and
> steel
> trailers. I can overhaul the bearings, brakes , lights, tires  before
I
> use.
> Hopefully not surpassing the price of a new trailer as I do so.
> My Mig welder says it will weld aluminum.(reverse polarity, aluminum
wire)
> I
> wonder if I can build a trailer from a kit?
> My Nissan towing capacity is 3500 lbs unladen for manual, 5000 lbs
unladen
> for
> an automatic .It doesn't say what the average wing velocity is for an
> unladen
> swallow.
> African or European.
> I suspect that Nissans lower weight capacity is for clutch
> warantee, but I don't think the highway parol will give me a break on
> that,
> since mine is a manual transmission, But I'll check, since even an
> aluminum
> trailer with MG would put me over 3500lbs, though I'm not calculating
> stripped
> down weight. No engine, transmission, interior,
windshield,Gigantibumpers
> on
> 74.5, Lights, spare, jack, fuel.
> I plan on setting up electric winch to pull car onto trailer, since it
> won't
> drive up.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Thu Jul  5 14:06:35 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2007 20:06:35 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? cont.
Message-ID: <070520072006.9593.468D4F4B0005B7CA0000257922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Thanks Kelvin.
P.O. used vehicle to tow, there are additional springs on rear leafs, but I'll have to compare with other similar vehicles.
I wonder if Air shocks would do the trick?
Eric
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
> 
> 
> 
> If you are planning on towing with a Nissan SUV, take a look at rear air
> bags which are installed inside the springs. This is a recommended
> upgrade that we are planning on doing soon to my wife's Pathfinder.  
> 
> The Nissan has a lot of rear suspension travel which makes it unsuitable
> for any kind of tongue weight without additional spring support. Every
> time the trailer goes over a bump it's going to compress and extend the
> rear suspension pretty dramatically. The air bags are reasonably priced
> and give additional load support.
> 
> Just 'cos the factory says you can tow a certain weight doesn't mean
> it's going to be comfortable.
> 
> On the trailer issue. I've towed lots of British sports cars on a single
> axle utility trailer. Mine has a couple of holes in the tongue that I
> can bolt an electric winch to which makes loading and unloading a one
> person job. 
> 
> A tandem axle with brakes is nice and lots safer, but is a bit overkill
> if it is only to be used once in a while. 
> 
> I love my tandem axle enclosed trailer, but the last three tows I've
> made have been my TR8 and to pick up an MGA coupe and a GT6+, all of
> which were on the single axle. I towed the TR8 with my wife's Pathfinder
> quite happily across town.   
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd 
> 
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> > Behalf Of cyberemp at comcast.net
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 1:29 PM
> > To: MG LIST
> > Subject: [Mgs] MG, how heavy art thou? cont.
> > 
> > Hello list.
> > Thank all of you for your responses.
> > Concensus seems to be the weight of car is near 2,500lbs.  I'll have
> to go
> > with
> > the 280Xlbs number.
> >      Trailer advice points towards a dual axle, elect. brake flat
> > bed.(because
> > car will be stripped down and illegal for even touching the sacred
> streets
> > of
> > California without license, lights, windshield). Aluminum trailer
> > preferred, but
> > the cheapest I could find one in this area was $4850.00. Ouch!
> > I also hear the horror stories of Uhauls. I will seek used aluminum
> and
> > steel
> > trailers. I can overhaul the bearings, brakes , lights, tires  before
> I
> > use.
> > Hopefully not surpassing the price of a new trailer as I do so.
> > My Mig welder says it will weld aluminum.(reverse polarity, aluminum
> wire)
> > I
> > wonder if I can build a trailer from a kit?
> > My Nissan towing capacity is 3500 lbs unladen for manual, 5000 lbs
> unladen
> > for
> > an automatic .It doesn't say what the average wing velocity is for an
> > unladen
> > swallow.
> > African or European.
> > I suspect that Nissans lower weight capacity is for clutch
> > warantee, but I don't think the highway parol will give me a break on
> > that,
> > since mine is a manual transmission, But I'll check, since even an
> > aluminum
> > trailer with MG would put me over 3500lbs, though I'm not calculating
> > stripped
> > down weight. No engine, transmission, interior,
> windshield,Gigantibumpers
> > on
> > 74.5, Lights, spare, jack, fuel.
> > I plan on setting up electric winch to pull car onto trailer, since it
> > won't
> > drive up.

From arundell at ghs.com.au  Thu Jul  5 16:23:28 2007
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 08:23:28 +1000
Subject: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG
In-Reply-To: <20070705165133.5D5A3187A01@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005301c7bf53$1db3c560$1b01a8c0@ghs.local>

What a typically uninformed comment!  I'm sorry but I though we were all
pretty mature here and with a degree of intelligence?  Stick MG badges on a
Miata (MX-5) in preference to buying a new MG.  Please.... 

This is the same sort of stupid logic that some of the Pre War pratts carry
on with saying that nothing made outside the old Oxford factory is a true
MG.  

Further it seems to me that none of the guys making these statements about
the Chinese made MGs have been within ten thousand miles of the factory.
Well I have and let me tell you they've got as many robots if not more than
the best factories in Europe.  Sure there is some crap stuff coming out of
China but there is an awful lot of rubbish coming out of the US and Europe
too.  

For what its worth I make a substantial part of my income from marketing
Chinese made Hi-Tech equipment.  At the moment I am enjoying an absolute
killing because my competitors all once had the same attitude as you do.
"Chinese is Crap" they all said.  Wrong, its like everything.  If you buy
the cheapest ex China you'll get what you've paid for.  If you do your
research and pay a little more you'll get technology as good and better than
anything else in the world.  

OK Rant mode off now, my blood pressure is returning to normal.  Let the
flames begin!!

Murray Arundell
Brisbane

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
Sent: Friday, 6 July 2007 2:50 am
To: Paul Root; Paul Hunt
Cc: V8 list; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG

Paul,

I appreciate the desire to go MG but to me the soul will not be 
there.  I would rather buy a Miata, prise off the badges and stick MG 
ones on - Having suffered from Chinese made stuff I just wonder what 
the car will be like. Stuff is actually getting worse - I am into my 
4th Cuisinart percolator this year already and 50% of my 
auto-electronics has gone manual.   I will predict that Lucas will 
look like the rock of Gibraltar when the Rhucas electric gear comes 
out with the "MG".



At 11:11 AM 7/5/2007, Paul Root wrote:
>That's cool. Congratulations!
>
>I know it's heracy to say on this list. But, I hope the Nanjing MG
>comes to America. I'll be in the market for a car
>in 2009 or so (when my oldest turns 16, he can have the Subaru).
>
>
>Paul.
>
>
>On Jul 5, 2007, at 9:02 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>
> > Having owned my roadster for about 17 years, and the V8 for 12
> > years, I've been waiting to get my hands on a ZS 180 (2.5 litre V6,
> > 175 bhp, 177 ft lb, 0-60 7.3s, 139 mph) since I test-drove one not
> > long after they were launched in 2001, to near universal acclaim
> > from the usually cynical and MG Rover-knocking motoring
> > journalists.  Finally, through a relative in the trade, a really
> > good one popped up and I've bought it.  This one really did have my
> > name on it, its registration includes my three initials - albeit in
> > reverse order.  Now the long-suffering Navigator can spend some
> > time at least in climate controlled, leather seated luxury.  The
> > car is a 2004 face-lift model with the much improved frontal
> > styling and interior.  When these first came out I wasn't keen on
> > the rear styling as it is rather heavy, but I don't even mind that
> > anymore :o)
> >
> > PaulH.
>
>
>Paul Root
>ptrmgb at gmail.com
>77 MGB
>99 OBS
>
>///
>///  mgb-v8 at autox.team.net mailing list
>///  Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net
>///  Send list postings to mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
>///  Edit your replies!  If they include this trailer, they will NOT be
sent.
>///

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  
_______________________________________________
arundell at ghs.com.au

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From Rabeys at aol.com  Thu Jul  5 22:15:06 2007
From: Rabeys at aol.com (Rabeys at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 00:15:06 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <d5d.b2a1556.33bf1bca@aol.com>

Thanks to all for the tips on the brakes etc.  I've watched my  brother quite 
some time ago replace the cylinders an show me how to make  adjuments, but 
unless I actually do it myself I forget.  And even then,  sometimes I still 
forget.  I decided not to tackle the brakes myself.   Good days in Oregon are few 
and far between...what I envisioned happening is me  tearing it apart, not 
being able to get it back together, ordering a tow and  getting it back in time 
for the rain.
 
When I took it in, they confirmed my initial thought on all the grime that  
had built up on that wheel.  It was actually an axle leak...just need some  
gaskets and O ring.  For some reason, given other factors, I just figured  it was 
the rear cylinders.  It was so wet and gunky in there, it was  hard  for me 
to tell.  I was also told that the other reason I was  having a hard time 
getting pressure built up is that the drums have been turned  one to many times.  
The brakes were out as far as they could go apparently,  but the shoes werent 
reaching the drum anymore...I guess on the one side.   They checked the other 
and it was OK.  I ended up bringing them the drum  off my parts car, and they 
had it fixed up in no time.  So she is back on  the road.  
 
Live and learn...Stephanie



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul  6 08:39:30 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 15:39:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C64D579@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <006f01c7bfdb$ac96b750$0200a8c0@Three>

I've posted a few pictures at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/zs180.htm

Cheers,
Paul.

----- Original Message ----- 
Can you send pictures?

From lister at bonackers.com  Fri Jul  6 14:48:29 2007
From: lister at bonackers.com (Scott Bonacker)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2007 14:48:29 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG
In-Reply-To: <468E8320.8070505@speakeasy.net>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C64D579@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<006f01c7bfdb$ac96b750$0200a8c0@Three>
	<468E8320.8070505@speakeasy.net>
Message-ID: <001f01c7c00f$024e0b20$1800000a@abyssinian>

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net 
>Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 12:00 PM
>
>Does anyone know if the Chinese plans for MG in the States are 
>still on, and if so will they be all new designs, or did they 
>buy some of the tooling from the recently deceased MG marque?

There's this -

http://prowlingowl.com/Articles/ArdmoreNanjing2.cfm

And some more that can be found by searching for "Oklahoma Global Motors" or
words such as Nanjing Automobile Corporation and Ardmore Oklahoma.

Scott
'77RBB

From smarc at smarc.net  Fri Jul  6 21:45:33 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2007 23:45:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] New Harness has arrived
In-Reply-To: <003801c7bf07$76027fa0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <468A82A7.7070009@smarc.net><97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B8D8@shoyerserver.shoyer.com><468B23C4.1010202@smarc.net>
	<468C83F0.3030002@smarc.net> <003801c7bf07$76027fa0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <468F0C5D.30809@smarc.net>

   I buttoned it up tonight, and drove it around the block.
   I was already aware of the need to fully engage the bullet connectors,
   and  find that careful use of a small needle nosed pliers works well -
   don't  crush  the wire though!  I also went for a little overkill in a
   few  places  behind  the  console  where the radio goes, and where the
   original  problem occurred - I slipped a three inch long piece of heat
   shrink  tube over the connectors, snapped them together and shrunk the
   tube...
   Also  took  great care to dress wires neatly and out of the way. Every
   existing  connector  or  spade  was  cleaned,  dielectric  grease used
   everywhere.   A  really  nice  job,  worth  taking  the extra time. My
   install  looks  every  bit  factory  done.  A  new  fuse  box was also
   installed.
   My  lights  are  nice  and  bright.  I had meant to order all new dash
   illumination lights, but I wound up using the old ones since I forgot.
   I  also  installed  the  new(er)  speedometer I purchased and that has
   solved  my jumpy speedometer problem which has irritated me since I've
   had the car. Plus I now have a working trip odometer to boot!
   Now I can get back to wrenching on the Midget...
Marc

   Paul Hunt wrote:

It should do, the bypass circuit really only comes into play under adverse
conditions and poor state of tune.  If you have the original solenoid with
the extra spade you can simply add the wire, or if the solenoid doesn't have
the spade you can replicate the function with a relay, or if you know what
you are doing a diode.

The time delay unit and its predecessor (the sequential system that
interrupted the starter circuit) go back to 74 so it sounds like you have a
harness for a different market, as I'd expect there to be more differences
if it were for a US car earlier than that!  If that is the plug is the only
difference it shouldn't have any knock-on effects.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----

... So I hooked up the
battery and turned the key. It cranked, and in spite of the fact that I
had not hooked up the choke cable yet (and the lack of ballast bypass)
it started up!

____

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul  7 05:40:46 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 12:40:46 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 18 cylinders of MG
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C64D579@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<006f01c7bfdb$ac96b750$0200a8c0@Three>
	<468E8320.8070505@speakeasy.net>
Message-ID: <00f901c7c08d$33c7c3c0$0200a8c0@Three>

Nanjing shipped the most of the production lines from Longbridge to China, 
leaving just the final assembly lines for the TF, which is due to begin 
series production again at Longbridge later this year from a kit of parts 
shipped in from China.

There are rumours in the UK that SAIC, the losing bidders for the MG assets, 
are a) teaming up with Nanjing, and b) possible bidders for Land Rover and 
Jaguar.  Which apart from the location would put things back to 1975 and 
British Leyland, and we all know what happened then!

PaulH.

http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/04/19/news/auto.php

http://icbirmingham.icnetwork.co.uk/birminghampost/news/tm_headline=saic-linked-to-jaguar-and-land-rover&method=full&objectid=19389052&siteid=50002-name_page.html


----- Original Message ----- 
> Does anyone know if the Chinese plans for MG in the States are still on,

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul  7 08:34:38 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 07:34:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Thank  you, with pictures
Message-ID: <828601.84821.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Happy Saturday morning,

   Thank you to the List member who shamed me into a
complete brake rebuild rather than just fixing an
obvious problem!  Let me show you a part that was
still working and NOT on the corner that failed:
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0676.JPG .  Notice the
tear in the hose next to the metal end fitting!  This
hose 'looked' just fine, if dirty, when on the car
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0653.JPG .
   
   The rebuild of the front left corner started with
the removal of the brake parts and hub assembly
thereby yielding two systems to attack; the brakes and
the axle/suspension.  Here is a picture of the stub
axle and suspension with cleaning in progress
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0682.JPG .  I've gotten
no further than this stage on the suspension.
   Earlier I posted a (link to a) picture of the hub
components.  Here's the link
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/LeftFrontHubParts.jpg .  I've
since placed most of those components into a Zip-lock
freezer bag along with a dose of oil.  A few parts
that had rusted and are now cleaned up, are painted. 
I also pre-packed the bearings to protect them from
rust http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0679.JPG .  (I live
in Houston where humidity is at 101% 24/7 so bare
steel is always at risk for rust.)

   The caliper pistons were (mildly) stuck in their
bores but were freed up with a little blast from the
air hose.  The pistons and their bores were cleaned
and found undamaged.  The piston seals and dust
excluders were in sad shape
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0680.JPG .  Rebuild kits
have been ordered.
   With everything cleaned on the caliper, inside and
out (The caliper was NOT split.), I applied a coat of
paint, using a yellow-cad color
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0675.JPG ,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0677.JPG and
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0678.JPG .  When the new
rubber arrives I'll carefully reassemble the pistons
in caliper.  

   Brake and suspension work is DIRTY work.  My home
is new and trashing the garage floor is not a popular
option.   A plastic shower curtain liner makes a cheap
tarp to carry away that nasty, greasy debris.  The
workbench has not survived as well.  Time for a big
clean-up http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0681.JPG .

   So again, thanks to the listmember who encouraged
me to do a rebuild, not just a repair.

Regards,

Rick Lindsay
'70 MGB Tourer
'79 Ferrari 308GTB

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  7 08:48:21 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 09:48:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Iola Old Car Show 2007
Message-ID: <00d901c7c0a5$dde9c390$6401a8c0@Larry>

Any WI or IL people going to the Iola (WI) Old Car Show next Sunday, July 15?
For those not familiar with this show, there are over 2,500 show cars plus
over 1,000 more cars for sale in the car corral and a swap meet area with over
4,000 spaces.  It is big.

They are having their "International Alley" again this year.  There will be a
special parking area for our classic British/foreign cars as well as free
admission for us on Sunday.

http://tinyurl.com/2fg7p9


Last year Peter C and I met for breakfast in Waupaca on the way up.  For
anybody interested, lets meet for breakfast at the diner adjacent to the Mobil
station at Hwy 54 and Cty QQ at 9AM.  Take Hwy 10 north to Waupaca.  The 3rd
exit will be Hwy 54.  Exit and turn left.  The first intersection -- only a
few yards -- will be Cty QQ.  The gas station/diner will be on the left.

Who can make it?




Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  8 15:46:49 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 14:46:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Left front axle reassembled, with a pix.
Message-ID: <426023.26196.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello friends,
   Found a little time this afternoon to reassemble
the left front axle and hub.  If you have followed my
notes you may remember this 'before' picture
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0653.JPG .  Here's how it
looked right before reinstalling the hub and new rotor
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0685.JPG .
   The hub and new rotor were mated and the rear wheel
bearings and grease seal were installed
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0686.JPG .  Here's a
close-up of the bearing and seal
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0687.JPG .
   The grease cap was installed after installing the
shims, outer wheel bearing, lock-washer and nut -
torqued to 45+ lb-ft
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0691.JPG .
   Here's how the final solution looks, without
brakes, http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0690.JPG .
   Once the rebuild kits arrive I will reassemble the
pistons to the caliper and brake assembly will begin.
   Happy Sunday afternoon.

rick
'70 MGB Tourer
'79 Ferrari 308GTB

PS: In case any of you are bored and have a few hours
of extra time, here a link to the pictures of my
308GTB's restoration - still a little bit in progress
http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari/ .

From smarc at smarc.net  Mon Jul  9 07:57:04 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 09:57:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] banjo bolt torque?
Message-ID: <46923EB0.6040200@smarc.net>

Is there a specified torque for brake hose banjo bolt to caliper on a Mk III Midget? I 
can't find one anywhere. If not, is there a good guide line?

-- 
Marc

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  9 09:18:15 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 08:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re: 18 cylinders of MG
In-Reply-To: <006f01c7bfdb$ac96b750$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <93280.51559.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote: I've posted a few pictures at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/zs180.htm

Dang, that's a great-looking car, Paul and I love the color. Wish we had that choice here in the States. I would have considered the MG when I was looking for a new car a few years ago. 

Re: the exhaust - we just purchased a '99 Subaru Impreza RS2.5 for my son, with an aftermarket exhaust. He thinks it's kind of loud while I like it! 

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/Subaru/DSCN1711.jpg






      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Jul  9 09:42:56 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 11:42:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Voltage stabiliser
Message-ID: <E1I7vPs-0004hF-HZ@gamma.look.ca>

Anyone in need of an MGB voltage stabiliser (131-550) ?  I bought one 
too many !!

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  9 09:51:42 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2007 08:51:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re: 18 cylinders of MG
In-Reply-To: <93280.51559.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <688390.35787.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Paul, I just joined this thread and have but one
question:  Is it rear-wheel drive?

rick

--- Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote: I've
> posted a few pictures at
> http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/zs180.htm
> 
> Dang, that's a great-looking car, Paul and I love
> the color. Wish we had that choice here in the
> States. I would have considered the MG when I was
> looking for a new car a few years ago. 
> 
> Re: the exhaust - we just purchased a '99 Subaru
> Impreza RS2.5 for my son, with an aftermarket
> exhaust. He thinks it's kind of loud while I like
> it! 
> 
>
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/Subaru/DSCN1711.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that
> smoke? <cough cough>
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue Jul 10 10:48:09 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 11:48:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] banjo bolt torque?
In-Reply-To: <46923EB0.6040200@smarc.net>
References: <46923EB0.6040200@smarc.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.1.20070710114605.01e895d8@mgaguru.com>

At 09:57 AM 7/9/2007 -0400, Marc wrote:
>Is there a specified torque for brake hose banjo bolt to caliper on 
>a Mk III Midget? I can't find one anywhere. If not, is there a good guide line?

Tight enough not to leak, but not so tight as to break the banjo 
bolt.  If it does not seal properly with only moderate torque you 
would need to replace the soft copper seal washers.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From smarc at smarc.net  Tue Jul 10 13:21:42 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 15:21:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] banjo bolt torque?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.1.20070710114605.01e895d8@mgaguru.com>
References: <46923EB0.6040200@smarc.net>
	<6.2.3.4.1.20070710114605.01e895d8@mgaguru.com>
Message-ID: <4693DC46.5010302@smarc.net>

   I had scoured the internet, ultimately finding some information from a
   motorcycle  site.  The info I culled from there indicated that 15 - 18
   foot lbs was the proper figure.
   Then  I  got  a  reply  off  list that indicated I was close. The info
   provided  was:  AP  Lockheed  specs:  3/8"  banjo bolt  and 7/16" hose
   fittings, 170 in lbs. 3/8" hose fittings, 120 in lbs.
   Converting  that  to  foot  lbs  gives  14.2  foot lbs and 10 foot lbs
   respectively.  I would think that with a 3/8" socket, you could easily
   over  tighten  this!  Since  I'm  not  a  mechanic,  I'd rather have a
   concrete  spec  to  go by other then "feel" since I've only done brake
   hoses two other times...
Marc

   Barney Gaylord wrote:

At 09:57 AM 7/9/2007 -0400, Marc wrote:

Is there a specified torque for brake hose banjo bolt to caliper on
a Mk III Midget? I can't find one anywhere. If not, is there a good guide line?

Tight enough not to leak, but not so tight as to break the banjo
bolt.  If it does not seal properly with only moderate torque you
would need to replace the soft copper seal washers.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
_______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 10 21:35:17 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 22:35:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com>
	<008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

1973 mgb roadster, pretty stock less the pollution equipment plus non 
functional add on a/c

the gas gage has read low for some time.

tonight i filled up and it still read dead zero as opposed to just being 
pessimistic

on the way back i realized i had no tail lights or dash lights.  ok.  btdt. 
pull the light switch, futz with it, put it back in, usually fixes it.  not 
tonight.  brake light works one side only, but that's been that way for a 
while.  i think thats unrelated.

switching in and out of overdrive at one point, which i think was a 
coincidence, the missing lights shine on and work all the way home.

conclusion:  errant ground under the dashboard, possible bad voltage 
stabilizer???

thanks for your help. 

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Wed Jul 11 04:33:29 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:33:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF650@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Planning an oil change soon.  The only 20W50 oil Halfords sell is their own
brand "Classic Motor Oil", which would appear to be appropriate as it is the
right viscosity and is aimed squarely at our cars.  I am however a little
suspicious that it is just dirt cheap oil (they did sell a "value" 20W50 not
long ago that I wouldn't touch with a bargepole) priced up in a fancy-looking
can.

However, they do sell a "Track Day Oil", which is normally exhorbitantly
expensive (#32 for a 5l can), but is currently buy one get one free, so is
only just more expensive than the (#15) "classic" oil.  It is 15W50, close
enough to the recommended viscosity to be OK.

I am tempted by this - looks like quality oil at a discounted price.  But I
know that oil is a controversial subject, and that generally you get what you
pay for.  So - any views on this?

Halfords "Classic Motor Oil":
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catal
ogId_10151_productId_166289_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupI
d__varient__categoryId_77306_crumb_33958-31345-53252_parentcategoryrn_77306

Halfords "Track Day Oil":
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catal
ogId_10151_productId_230747_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupI
d__varient__categoryId_77306_crumb_33958-31345-53252_parentcategoryrn_77306




Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)


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From lbcs at embarqmail.com  Wed Jul 11 06:03:33 2007
From: lbcs at embarqmail.com (Bill Miller (LBCs))
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 08:03:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
In-Reply-To: <000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com><008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three>
	<000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <001401c7c3b3$81b5dc10$0200a8c0@bills>

Check the fuseblock.
Those all run to the same fuse.
I had the same problem.  Everytime I hit a bump in the road they would
either go on or off.  Cleaned the fuse block, tightened the clips and
Everything is fine now.

-----Original Message-----
tonight i filled up and it still read dead zero as opposed to just being 
pessimistic

on the way back i realized i had no tail lights or dash lights.  ok.  btdt. 
pull the light switch, futz with it, put it back in, usually fixes it.  not 
tonight.  brake light works one side only, but that's been that way for a 
while.  i think thats unrelated.

switching in and out of overdrive at one point, which i think was a 
coincidence, the missing lights shine on and work all the way home.

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Wed Jul 11 06:14:59 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 13:14:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF651@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Never mind - the website was misleading (well, lying).  The "Track Day Oil" is
5W50 not 15W50 (I guess that's a typo), and is not in fact BOGOF but reduced
in price to #22.  I got the Halfords Classic.


Richard & Daffy

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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed Jul 11 07:26:27 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 15:26:27 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com><008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three><000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
	<001401c7c3b3$81b5dc10$0200a8c0@bills>
Message-ID: <002e01c7c3bf$15bcc0d0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Also check, if the fuseblock contacts do not have bad rivet fittings.
If so, replace fuse block.

Cheers,

Hans

1971 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Miller (LBCs)" <lbcs at embarqmail.com>
To: "'oliver'" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] i think i know what to do


> Check the fuseblock.
> Those all run to the same fuse.
> I had the same problem.  Everytime I hit a bump in the road they would
> either go on or off.  Cleaned the fuse block, tightened the clips and
> Everything is fine now.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> tonight i filled up and it still read dead zero as opposed to just being
> pessimistic
>
> on the way back i realized i had no tail lights or dash lights.  ok. 
> btdt.
> pull the light switch, futz with it, put it back in, usually fixes it. 
> not
> tonight.  brake light works one side only, but that's been that way for a
> while.  i think thats unrelated.
>
> switching in and out of overdrive at one point, which i think was a
> coincidence, the missing lights shine on and work all the way home.

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Wed Jul 11 07:42:05 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 09:42:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs]  i think i know what to do
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707110641j6a5e8edfw832fdde6250bd12f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com>
	<008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three>
	<000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
	<001401c7c3b3$81b5dc10$0200a8c0@bills>
	<002e01c7c3bf$15bcc0d0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<76664a460707110641j6a5e8edfw832fdde6250bd12f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460707110642t599219c6vd652d73c1c005eb5@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry Hans, forgot the reply feature doesn't work on this list.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>

I have this problem and I can't get the old fuse block off the car since the
screw head is stripped... any ideas?  The 'socket' is too narrow to fit in a
set of vice grips or to cut a slot in the screw.

- Steve

On 7/11/07, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>
> Also check, if the fuseblock contacts do not have bad rivet fittings.
> If so, replace fuse block.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> 1971 BGT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Miller (LBCs)" < lbcs at embarqmail.com>
> To: "'oliver'" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net >
> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 2:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
>
>
> > Check the fuseblock.
> > Those all run to the same fuse.
> > I had the same problem.  Everytime I hit a bump in the road they would
> > either go on or off.  Cleaned the fuse block, tightened the clips and
> > Everything is fine now.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > tonight i filled up and it still read dead zero as opposed to just being
>
> > pessimistic
> >
> > on the way back i realized i had no tail lights or dash lights.  ok.
> > btdt.
> > pull the light switch, futz with it, put it back in, usually fixes it.
> > not
> > tonight.  brake light works one side only, but that's been that way for
> a
> > while.  i think thats unrelated.
> >
> > switching in and out of overdrive at one point, which i think was a
> > coincidence, the missing lights shine on and work all the way home.
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From smarc at smarc.net  Wed Jul 11 09:25:51 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:25:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707110642t599219c6vd652d73c1c005eb5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com>
	<008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three>
	<000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
	<001401c7c3b3$81b5dc10$0200a8c0@bills>
	<002e01c7c3bf$15bcc0d0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<76664a460707110641j6a5e8edfw832fdde6250bd12f@mail.gmail.com>
	<76664a460707110642t599219c6vd652d73c1c005eb5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4694F67F.8010007@smarc.net>

Drill it out. If you have a left handed bit it may just unscrew it....

Marc



Steve wrote:
> Sorry Hans, forgot the reply feature doesn't work on this list.
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
> Date: Jul 11, 2007 9:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
> To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
>
> I have this problem and I can't get the old fuse block off the car since the
> screw head is stripped... any ideas?  The 'socket' is too narrow to fit in a
> set of vice grips or to cut a slot in the screw.
>
> - Steve

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Jul 11 10:37:25 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 09:37:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
In-Reply-To: <000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C70E1AF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Oliver:

Let's go after the problems one at a time.

Fuel Gauge:

If your temp gauge appears to be reading accurately, then you don't have
a voltage stabilizer problem.

Go under the rear of the car, pull the green striped wire off the fuel
sender and ground it to the chassis. With the ignition on, the fuel
gauge should sweep all the way to full.

If it does that correctly. Clean and re-connect the wire to the sender.
If the gauge still reads empty, the float on the sender may have failed,
or the sender itself may have an internal bad connection. In which case
you will need to pull the sender and check it out/replace.


Tail Lights and Dash Lights:

These receive power from the headlight switch. If your headlights are
working, then the switch is getting power.

The side lamps and dash lights only have this one common point, so it is
a given that either the red wire connector at the switch is not making
good contact, or there is an internal problem with the switch.

These 1973-76 headlight switches were pretty short lived, so it's
probably the switch.

Your historical fix is the best call. The most likely culprit is a bad
contact inside the headlight switch. Futzing with it in the past would
get it working, but after enough times carbon build up would get so bad
that futzing doesn't work any more. Removing the switch, dismantling it
and cleaning the contacts or replacing the switch will get you going
again.

This is where a volt meter or test light is really handy. The feed to
the sidelamps from the headlamp switch is the red wire. Check to see if
you have power here with the switch on. I'm betting you don't.

As you surmise, the brake lights are a totally different circuit. If one
works and not the other, the switching is all ok you either have a bad
bulb, bad socket contact or more likely the connector from harness to
lamp assembly has become unplugged.


Boy, three unrelated electrical problems in one car.

All of these problems are pretty typical as the car gets older. Fix them
correctly once and you won't have the same problem again.



BTW. The recommendation to replace the 4 position fuse box is a good
one. Once you start having electrical problems caused by age, the fuse
box is going to start becoming a problem as it is prone to corrosion
between the rivets and clips. Typical symptoms will be a loss of
ignition switched circuits, such as the turn signals, brake lights etc.

I highly recommend replacing the fuse box and the headlight switch on
any older crash dash MGB. Also take the steering column cowl off and
clean all the terminals of the turn signal/High-low beam switch. This
prevents most of the electrical gremlins from getting out of hand.


Kelvin



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of oliver
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 8:35 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
>
> 1973 mgb roadster, pretty stock less the pollution equipment plus non
> functional add on a/c
>
> the gas gage has read low for some time.
>
> tonight i filled up and it still read dead zero as opposed to just
being
> pessimistic
>
> on the way back i realized i had no tail lights or dash lights.  ok.
> btdt.
> pull the light switch, futz with it, put it back in, usually fixes it.
> not
> tonight.  brake light works one side only, but that's been that way
for a
> while.  i think thats unrelated.
>
> switching in and out of overdrive at one point, which i think was a
> coincidence, the missing lights shine on and work all the way home.
>
> conclusion:  errant ground under the dashboard, possible bad voltage
> stabilizer???
>
> thanks for your help.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 11 10:31:12 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 09:31:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF651@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <C2BA53E0.11760%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I've never seen 5W50 before, anywhere. Kind of hard to believe they can
effectively stretch the viscosity range that much. I don't think I'd try to
use that in a vintage tappet engine.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/11/07 5:14 AM, Gosling, Richard at r.gosling at penspen.com wrote:

> Never mind - the website was misleading (well, lying).  The "Track Day Oil" is
> 5W50 not 15W50 (I guess that's a typo), and is not in fact BOGOF but reduced
> in price to #22.  I got the Halfords Classic.
> 
> 
> Richard & Daffy

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 11 10:44:26 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:44:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] get ready
Message-ID: <176314EF-E45A-433A-B100-8AD1656B448F@sbcglobal.net>

Get ready for the next onslaught to defend you car!

http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news? 
pid=20601093&sid=aijQ0.2BMGw8&refer=home

From elco506 at austin.rr.com  Wed Jul 11 11:20:23 2007
From: elco506 at austin.rr.com (Brian Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 12:20:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Get Ready
Message-ID: <001801c7c3df$c4b3ceb0$6601a8c0@Brian>

Link goes to a blank page???

 

Brian Lundgren,

From lundgren at byu.net  Wed Jul 11 11:26:58 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:26:58 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
In-Reply-To: <C2BA53E0.11760%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C2BA53E0.11760%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <469512E2.3000704@byu.net>

A friend of mine has a new toyota tundra with the 5.7l in it.  It takes 
0w-20.   I didn't even know they made a 0...

Max Heim wrote:
> I've never seen 5W50 before, anywhere. Kind of hard to believe they can
> effectively stretch the viscosity range that much. I don't think I'd try to
> use that in a vintage tappet engine.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From lundgren at byu.net  Wed Jul 11 11:29:13 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:29:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Get Ready
In-Reply-To: <001801c7c3df$c4b3ceb0$6601a8c0@Brian>
References: <001801c7c3df$c4b3ceb0$6601a8c0@Brian>
Message-ID: <46951369.5040102@byu.net>

Usually, if a URL is placed in <> outlook won't munge it...

<http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601093&sid=aijQ0.2BMGw8&refer=home>

--
Andrew Lundgren

Brian Lundgren wrote:
> Link goes to a blank page???

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Jul 11 11:34:01 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 12:34:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Get Ready
In-Reply-To: <001801c7c3df$c4b3ceb0$6601a8c0@Brian>
References: <001801c7c3df$c4b3ceb0$6601a8c0@Brian>
Message-ID: <5b0769cb0707111034i262c6475p822d1249ef3c3a20@mail.gmail.com>

Actually, it was just wrapped.

Here's a tinyurl to get you there.


http://tinyurl.com/2fhqty

The article itself is predictable. A rabid leftist wants to ban something he
doesn't have
and doesn't like. A rapid rightest complains in his article.

Neither side tells the whole story, both try to hide things.

There really is nothing to like about politics.


On 7/11/07, Brian Lundgren <elco506 at austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Link goes to a blank page???

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 11 12:40:56 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:40:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
In-Reply-To: <469512E2.3000704@byu.net>
Message-ID: <C2BA7248.11782%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I have seen that on the shelves. Seems rather nonsensical, doesn't it? But
at least the total range is only 20. Claiming a 45-unit viscosity range is
what I found unlikely.

In multi-grade oil, viscosity is extended by adding complex long chain
molecules, which, when folded up, flow easily, to a low viscosity base
stock. When heated, these molecules unfold and simulate the flow
characteristics of a higher viscosity oil.

The problem with this approach is twofold. As the oil ages, these molecules
can break down, at which point the oil only offers the protection of its
base stock (would you run your engine on straight 5W?). Modern oils,
particularly synthetics, are advertising longer and longer change intervals,
so presumably these molecules are fairly long-lived, but still...

Secondly, and more crucially, these oils are designed for modern, tight
tolerance engines, typically with roller rockers or overhead cams. In
situations with loose bearing tolerances, these long chain molecules may not
be large enough to perform their intended function, and will not
successfully simulate a higher viscosity oil. So there you are running 5W
again...

Another consideration is that these low base weight multigrades deliberately
eschew the anti-wear additives that were common in oil formulations at the
time our LBCs were new, in favor of further reducing friction for gas
mileage purposes. A sunburst symbol on the can indicates one of these "low
friction" formulations, which would not be suitable, to my mind, for use in
a mechanical tappet engine.

Personally, I wouldn't use anything with a lower base than 20W50, unless
perhaps in winter in a very cold climate.

In my other vintage engine, a high-performance V8 with much higher valve
spring pressures, I run 30wt "heavy duty". I know some people who run racing
oil, but I don't think that is suitable for typical 2nd-car street use,
involving irregular use and sitting around for long periods, with long time
intervals between changes. It seems obvious to me that racing oil is
designed for short periods of intense use followed by an immediate
changeout. In this context, the concept of "track day oil" is puzzling, to
say the least.



on 7/11/07 10:26 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren at byu.net wrote:

> A friend of mine has a new toyota tundra with the 5.7l in it.  It takes
> 0w-20.   I didn't even know they made a 0...
> 
> Max Heim wrote:
>> I've never seen 5W50 before, anywhere. Kind of hard to believe they can
>> effectively stretch the viscosity range that much. I don't think I'd try to
>> use that in a vintage tappet engine.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>>   
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From bilking at comcast.net  Wed Jul 11 15:46:39 2007
From: bilking at comcast.net (bill)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 17:46:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
In-Reply-To: <C2BA7248.11782%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <LPEMJCGBDOAOFNHIMDIHAELJCAAA.bilking@comcast.net>

 (would you run your engine on straight 5W?).


I just put 0-20W in my daughter's new Camry hybrid.  Even air has a
viscosity higher than 0.

From jkk at adams.net  Wed Jul 11 18:10:59 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 19:10:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
References: <C2BA53E0.11760%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <006801c7c419$20664bf0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>


> I've never seen 5W50 before, anywhere. Kind of hard to believe they can
> effectively stretch the viscosity range that much. I don't think I'd try 
> to
> use that in a vintage tappet engine.
>
>
> --
>

Gee, I guess none of you own a Ford GT or Shelby Mustang 500 ;^ ). Ford has 
a 5W50 full synthetic made just for the 500 hp 5.4 motors in these cars. 
Kinda' pricey, though.

Jim 

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Wed Jul 11 19:03:52 2007
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 20:03:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707110642t599219c6vd652d73c1c005eb5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com>
	<008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three>
	<000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
	<001401c7c3b3$81b5dc10$0200a8c0@bills>
	<002e01c7c3bf$15bcc0d0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<76664a460707110641j6a5e8edfw832fdde6250bd12f@mail.gmail.com>
	<76664a460707110642t599219c6vd652d73c1c005eb5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005a01c7c420$85005ea0$8f011be0$@net>

Hammer/chisel?

If you are replacing it anyway, the plastic block will give eventually.
Just a thought.

Chad
'72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steve
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 8:42 AM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do

Sorry Hans, forgot the reply feature doesn't work on this list.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>

I have this problem and I can't get the old fuse block off the car since the
screw head is stripped... any ideas?  The 'socket' is too narrow to fit in a
set of vice grips or to cut a slot in the screw.

- Steve

On 7/11/07, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>
> Also check, if the fuseblock contacts do not have bad rivet fittings.
> If so, replace fuse block.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> 1971 BGT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Miller (LBCs)" < lbcs at embarqmail.com>
> To: "'oliver'" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: <mgs at Autox.Team.Net >
> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 2:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
>
>
> > Check the fuseblock.
> > Those all run to the same fuse.
> > I had the same problem.  Everytime I hit a bump in the road they would
> > either go on or off.  Cleaned the fuse block, tightened the clips and
> > Everything is fine now.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > tonight i filled up and it still read dead zero as opposed to just being

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Wed Jul 11 20:12:58 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 22:12:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do
In-Reply-To: <000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
References: <ce3.146cc4fc.33bd5877@aol.com>
	<008601c7beec$f1f67a50$0200a8c0@Three>
	<000201c7c36c$8194ded0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <001d01c7c42a$2ab4a1e0$801de5a0$@com>

When I have had taillight issues, they are normally fixed by inspecting the
ground in the boot right behind the license plate. 

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 11:35 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] i think i know what to do

1973 mgb roadster, pretty stock less the pollution equipment plus non 
functional add on a/c

on the way back i realized i had no tail lights or dash lights.  ok.  btdt. 
pull the light switch, futz with it, put it back in, usually fixes it.  not 
tonight.  brake light works one side only, but that's been that way for a 
while.  i think thats unrelated.

switching in and out of overdrive at one point, which i think was a 
coincidence, the missing lights shine on and work all the way home.

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Thu Jul 12 07:45:26 2007
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (Sam DeSalvo)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 09:45:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] andrex shocks
Message-ID: <000801c7c48a$e747c5c0$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>

I am looking for a pair of andrex shocks for the front end of my TD MarkII.
Any condition is ok as long as they also have the connecting linkages.
Thanks,
Sam

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Thu Jul 12 17:16:30 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:16:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] New On line magazine
Message-ID: <005301c7c4da$ca2f7190$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

There is anew on-line magazine from Britain.  Two or three articles on MGs,
though other cars are also reatured.

http://www.classiccartv.co.uk/

Maynard

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Thu Jul 12 18:54:12 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 19:54:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] New On Line Magazine
Message-ID: <006d01c7c4e8$55b4d680$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

Ed said::
<<though other cars are also reatured.>>

Huh, Maynard???

Dont blame me. I s a public skule teecher.

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Thu Jul 12 19:08:24 2007
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:08:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
References: <006501c7ac96$d72f1f50$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
Message-ID: <000e01c7c4ea$54374c50$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>

Can anyone tell me if 15" X 6" wheels will work on an MGB?  I'm planning on 
running 195/60/15 tires.
Also, Is there a "proper technique" to roll the rear fender lip?
Tks,
Danny V
'76 MGB V-6 project


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Nazarian" <james.nazarian at gmail.com>
To: "'Larry Colen'" <lrc at red4est.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???


>I run 205x50R15s on my V8.  Both the race and street tires fit with only
> having to roll the rear fender lips.  I use polyurethane bushings in the
> whole suspension and have never seen any signs of tires rubbing anywhere.
> OTOH I have 185x70R14s on the roadster with stock rubber bushings (and
> wheels) and they rub the insides of the rear wheel wells.  They only rub
> enough to buff the dirt off and only when autocrossing.
>
> FWIW,
> James
>
> ?-----Original Message-----
> ?From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
> ?[mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Colen
> ?Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 12:04 PM
> ?To: FlynShoot at aol.com
> ?Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> ?Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
> ?
> ?If I recall correctly, you can run up to 195-60-14 on an MGB
> ?before things start getting tricky. You may need to roll the
> ?fenderlips to keep them from rubbing in the back.
> ?
> ?-- 
> ?                All your apex are belong to us.
> ?Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com
> ?http://www.red4est.com/lrc
> _______________________________________________
> dannyvarnado at cox.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From lrc at red4est.com  Thu Jul 12 19:37:35 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:37:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
In-Reply-To: <000e01c7c4ea$54374c50$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
References: <006501c7ac96$d72f1f50$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
	<000e01c7c4ea$54374c50$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <20070713013735.GA31842@red4est.com>

On Thu, Jul 12, 2007 at 06:08:24PM -0700, dannyvarnado wrote:
# Can anyone tell me if 15" X 6" wheels will work on an MGB?  I'm planning on 
# running 195/60/15 tires.

In a word, yes.  I'm planning on running 15x7.

# Also, Is there a "proper technique" to roll the rear fender lip?

There are special tools for rolling fenderlips. Alternatively you
could make a couple of strategic slices in the lips at bends, and use
vicegrips with rags to protect the paint.

# Tks,
# Danny V
# '76 MGB V-6 project
# 
# 
# ----- Original Message ----- 
# From: "James Nazarian" <james.nazarian at gmail.com>
# To: "'Larry Colen'" <lrc at red4est.com>
# Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
# Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 7:10 PM
# Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
# 
# 
# >I run 205x50R15s on my V8.  Both the race and street tires fit with only
# >having to roll the rear fender lips.  I use polyurethane bushings in the
# >whole suspension and have never seen any signs of tires rubbing anywhere.
# >OTOH I have 185x70R14s on the roadster with stock rubber bushings (and
# >wheels) and they rub the insides of the rear wheel wells.  They only rub
# >enough to buff the dirt off and only when autocrossing.
# >
# >FWIW,
# >James
# >
# >?-----Original Message-----
# >?From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
# >?[mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Colen
# >?Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 12:04 PM
# >?To: FlynShoot at aol.com
# >?Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
# >?Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
# >?
# >?If I recall correctly, you can run up to 195-60-14 on an MGB
# >?before things start getting tricky. You may need to roll the
# >?fenderlips to keep them from rubbing in the back.
# >?
# >?-- 
# >?                All your apex are belong to us.
# >?Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com
# >?http://www.red4est.com/lrc
# >_______________________________________________
# >dannyvarnado at cox.net
# >
# >Edit your replies
# >
# >Mgs at autox.team.net
# >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
# >
# 

-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 12 21:07:48 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 22:07:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
References: <006501c7ac96$d72f1f50$6400a8c0@theendindeed><000e01c7c4ea$54374c50$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
	<20070713013735.GA31842@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <017901c7c4fa$feab8470$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<There are special tools for rolling fenderlips. >>

It's called a WOOD baseball bat, Larry!!<G>

Older than the hill but still used IN NASCAR/Busch/Trucks/Arca/etal today.

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Fri Jul 13 01:33:00 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 08:33:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF655@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

The MGC used 15" wheels as standard, although off the top of my head I
wouldn't know what size tyres, or what the rim width was.  They fitted
the MGB body fine without rolling anything.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)

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From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 13 06:02:30 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 05:02:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] rear brakes - reassembly
Message-ID: <860830.21950.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Gang,
   Anyone have a write-up on reassembly of the rear
brakes on a B?  Yes, I know where all the parts go,
which side of the shoes the various springs are on,
etc. BUT, there has to be an installation sequence
that makes the job easier; one where you don't fight
the springs as much.  Can you help?

rick

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 13 06:17:56 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 07:17:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rear brakes - reassembly
References: <860830.21950.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01ae01c7c547$d94fbd20$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 7:02 AM
Subject: [Mgs] rear brakes - reassembly


Hello Gang,
   Anyone have a write-up on reassembly of the rear
brakes on a B?  Yes, I know where all the parts go,
which side of the shoes the various springs are on,
etc. BUT, there has to be an installation sequence
that makes the job easier; one where you don't fight
the springs as much.  Can you help?

rick
_______________________________________________

Rick, I just went through this on my 67 Austin A60 Pickup which is very 
similar to the B.  I asked Peter Caldwell of World Wide Auto Parts if he 
knew of a simpler way and this is what he said:

"I assemble the shoes on the floor with both tension
springs, then offer the set up to the wheel cylinder end, and 1
adjuster end, then pry the other shoe onto the adjuster."

I did it this way and it was the easiest I have ever installed shoes.  20 
seconds, max.  Really worked well.

Thank you, Peter.

Larry Daniels

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Jul 13 07:36:48 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 09:36:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rear brakes - reassembly
Message-ID: <20070713.102550.3104.11.MGBOB@juno.com>

   Peter Caldwell's method is the one that has worked best for me.  
   Barney Gaylord's site has a description of positioning of shoes
long-end/short end. 
Bob

> _______________________________________________
> 
> Rick, I just went through this on my 67 Austin A60 Pickup which is 
> very 
> similar to the B.  I asked Peter Caldwell of World Wide Auto Parts 
> if he 
> knew of a simpler way and this is what he said:
> 
> "I assemble the shoes on the floor with both tension
> springs, then offer the set up to the wheel cylinder end, and 1
> adjuster end, then pry the other shoe onto the adjuster."
> 
> I did it this way and it was the easiest I have ever installed 
> shoes.  20 
> seconds, max.  Really worked well.
> 
> Thank you, Peter.
> 
> Larry Daniels

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Jul 13 13:17:29 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 19:17:29 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
Message-ID: <071320071917.14853.4697CFC900099B0F00003A0522120207849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hello list.
I'm trying to find a new parts supplier for my mgs. Skip Kelseys shadetreemotors 
is having it's cosing up shop sale. locals only (no shipping) and cash or check 
prefered.
   I enjoyed doing business there because I could get instant gratification by 
driving down to pick up parts that he frequently had in stock.

I looked on web and found a few places. Opinions on this this place called "moss 
motors" out of  Goleta, Ca?
Yea, I'm kidding!!
LBC car co?
I have this vague recollection of someone named Ed. on this list saying something suble, like. "If you'd bought those parts from me, I'd help you." so I think there's at last one parts supplier on this list. :-)
   I live in the San-Francisco Bay Area. I checked with O'connors in Santa clara. They seem kind of pricy compared to shadetree motors, but maybe that was an exception.
   TIA for any help.
--
Eric
46 MGTC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra

So many cars, so little parking

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 13 13:26:33 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 12:26:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
In-Reply-To: <071320071917.14853.4697CFC900099B0F00003A0522120207849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C2BD1FF9.11887%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

O'Connor's is a Moss outlet, so you get the Moss price, including sale
prices. But they also offer service, so they can help you out with problems.
I call them for advice from time to time, when I'm stumped; and they are
pretty much the only people I have let work on my car. But service does not
come cheap in the Bay Area, as you well know.

They will ship to you direct, if you don't want to drive to Santa Clara. But
then, so will Moss, VB or LBCarCo.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/13/07 12:17 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net at cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:

> Hello list.
> I'm trying to find a new parts supplier for my mgs. Skip Kelseys
> shadetreemotors 
> is having it's cosing up shop sale. locals only (no shipping) and cash or
> check 
> prefered.
>    I enjoyed doing business there because I could get instant gratification by
> driving down to pick up parts that he frequently had in stock.
> 
> I looked on web and found a few places. Opinions on this this place called
> "moss 
> motors" out of  Goleta, Ca?
> Yea, I'm kidding!!
> LBC car co?
> I have this vague recollection of someone named Ed. on this list saying
> something suble, like. "If you'd bought those parts from me, I'd help you." so
> I think there's at last one parts supplier on this list. :-)
>    I live in the San-Francisco Bay Area. I checked with O'connors in Santa
> clara. They seem kind of pricy compared to shadetree motors, but maybe that
> was an exception.
>    TIA for any help.
> --
> Eric
> 46 MGTC
> 59 MGA
> 65 MGB
> 70 MGB
> 71 MGB
> 74.5 MGB
> 00 Nissan X-Terra
> 
> So many cars, so little parking

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Jul 13 13:41:30 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 19:41:30 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
Message-ID: <071320071941.6424.4697D56A000ED5580000191822120207849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

thank you dan!
Eric

--
Eric
46 MGTC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra
03 MINI
So many cars, so little parking

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> cyberemp at comcast.net wrote: Hello list.
> I'm trying to find a new parts supplier for my mgs. Skip Kelseys shadetreemotors 
> is having it's cosing up shop sale. locals only (no shipping) and cash or check 
> prefered.
>    I enjoyed doing business there because I could get instant gratification by 
> driving down to pick up parts that he frequently had in stock.
> 
> I looked on web and found a few places. Opinions on this this place called "moss 
> motors" out of  Goleta, Ca?
> Yea, I'm kidding!!
> LBC car co?
> I have this vague recollection of someone named Ed. on this list saying 
> something suble, like. "If you'd bought those parts from me, I'd help you." so I 
> think there's at last one parts supplier on this list. :-)
>    I live in the San-Francisco Bay Area. I checked with O'connors in Santa 
> clara. They seem kind of pricy compared to shadetree motors, but maybe that was 
> an exception.
>    TIA for any help.
> ------------------------
> Eric, I've used LBCarCo and been very happy with them. I've also used Ed Kaler 
> at www.justbrits.com and been very happy with him. They are both Moss resellers, 
> so you get Moss parts at a discount. Ed goes under an assumed name these days 
> and Jeff Zorn at LBCarCo used to contribute (maybe that was the other MG's 
> list).  I tend to spread my (few) purchases around a bit, to support 
> everyone....
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: cyberemp at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] parts supplier info
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 19:31:32 +0000
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from Multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/html

   cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:

     Hello list.
     I'm  trying  to  find a new parts supplier for my mgs. Skip Kelseys
     shadetreemotors
     is  having  it's cosing up shop sale. locals only (no shipping) and
     cash or check
     prefered.
     I  enjoyed  doing  business  there  because  I  could  get  instant
     gratification by
     driving down to pick up parts that he frequently had in stock.
     I looked on web and found a few places. Opinions on this this place
     called "moss
     motors" out of Goleta, Ca?
     Yea, I'm kidding!!
     LBC car co?
     I  have  this  vague recollection of someone named Ed. on this list
     saying something suble, like. "If you'd bought those parts from me,
     I'd  help  you."  so  I think there's at last one parts supplier on
     this list. :-)
     I  live  in the San-Francisco Bay Area. I checked with O'connors in
     Santa  clara. They seem kind of pricy compared to shadetree motors,
     but maybe that was an exception.
     TIA for any help.

   ------------------------
   Eric,  I've used LBCarCo and been very happy with them. I've also used
   Ed  Kaler  at www.justbrits.com and been very happy with him. They are
   both  Moss  resellers,  so  you  get Moss parts at a discount. Ed goes
   under  an  assumed  name  these  days and Jeff Zorn at LBCarCo used to
   contribute  (maybe that was the other MG's list).  I tend to spread my
   (few) purchases around a bit, to support everyone....

   Dan D
   Central NJ USA
   '76  MGB  Tourer  -  Driver  - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough
   cough>
   '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
   NAMGBR #5-2328

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Jul 13 13:42:58 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 19:42:58 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
Message-ID: <071320071942.11273.4697D5C20002914700002C0922120207849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

--thank you also, Bill.
Eric

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: William McLeod <wbmcleod at cox.net>
> Try British Parts NW (www.bpnorthwest.com) in Portland.  Good prices,  
> good people.  Regards, Bill
> Slightly Classics
> Tucson
> 73 MGB
> 80 MGB
> and a bunch of other stuff....
> 
> 
> On Jul 13, 2007, at 12:17 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> > Hello list.
> > I'm trying to find a new parts supplier for my mgs. Skip Kelseys  
> > shadetreemotors
> > is having it's cosing up shop sale. locals only (no shipping) and  
> > cash or check
> > prefered.
> >    TIA for any help.
> > --
> > Eric
> > 46 MGTC
> > 59 MGA
> > 65 MGB
> > 70 MGB
> > 71 MGB
> > 74.5 MGB
> > 00 Nissan X-Terra
> >
> > So many cars, so little parking

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Jul 13 13:55:30 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 19:55:30 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
Message-ID: <071320071955.24892.4697D8B20009D8B50000613C22120207849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

thanks 
I understand, everyone will have their own opinion. 
I'm really looking for places to avoid. I think it was "the roadster factory" that got bad postings here. (Disclaimer. My memory might be wrong, i don't want to put out bad press about a co. that doesn't deserve it This is not an opinion, expressed or implied about the above named entity. Just a hazy recollection of a rumor of an innuendo of a whisper in the dark as a freight trail went by).
Etc etc etc.
Eric
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Fisher or Elizabeth Jones <fisher at hctc.net>
From: Fisher or Elizabeth Jones <fisher at hctc.net>
To: cyberemp at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] parts supplier info
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 19:39:38 +0000
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from Multipart/mixed by demime 1.01d
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/html

   Hello Eric,
           Everyone  will  have  their own likes and dislikes.  There are
   several  suppliers  on the list, Ed being just one of them.  I like LB
   Car Co.  They carry the same parts as Moss, but sell them cheaper, and
   have  an  incentive  programme  for loyal customers - go look at their
   site  and  you'll  see  what  I mean.  Added to that, because they are
   smaller,  they  are  more  accommodating, and Jeff Zorn, the owner, is
   very  helpful  - honestly.  Victoria British is not the best supplier,
   but sometimes, needs must when the devil drives.   Often it depends on
   what you are looking for, Peter Caldwell at nosimport.com has the best
   shocks  around  -  they  rebuild  them  better than original - besides
   supplying other parts, too.
   elizabeth
   At 02:17 PM 7/13/2007, you wrote:

     Hello list.
     I'm  trying  to  find a new parts supplier for my mgs. Skip Kelseys
     shadetreemotors
     is  having  it's cosing up shop sale. locals only (no shipping) and
     cash or check
     prefered.
         I  enjoyed  doing  business  there  because I could get instant
     gratification by
     driving down to pick up parts that he frequently had in stock.
     I looked on web and found a few places. Opinions on this this place
     called "moss
     motors" out of  Goleta, Ca?
     Yea, I'm kidding!!
     LBC car co?
     I  have  this  vague recollection of someone named Ed. on this list
     saying something suble, like. "If you'd bought those parts from me,
     I'd  help  you."  so  I think there's at last one parts supplier on
     this list. :-)
         I  live in the San-Francisco Bay Area. I checked with O'connors
     in  Santa  clara.  They  seem  kind  of pricy compared to shadetree
     motors, but maybe that was an exception.
        TIA for any help.
     --
     Eric
     46 MGTC
     59 MGA
     65 MGB
     70 MGB
     71 MGB
     74.5 MGB
     00 Nissan X-Terra
     So many cars, so little parking
     _______________________________________________
     fisher at hctc.net
     Edit your replies
     Mgs at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
     _________________________________________________________________

   Fisher or Elizabeth Jones
   "A gentleman does not motor about after dark."  Joseph Lucas 1920

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Jul 13 15:51:41 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 14:51:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cam costs
Message-ID: <004501c7c597$ff999fa0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I'm starting a rebuild on my 66MGB engine.  I know there is wear on the cam.
Several of the tappets were badly worn.  Moss Motors has a sale price on a new
cam.  Can anyone tell me what it might cost to have the original cam reground
(a stock, street profile)??
Am I better off just buying the new cam or sending my old one out to a
specialty shop?
Any help is always appreciated.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Fri Jul 13 16:19:30 2007
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:19:30 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cam costs
In-Reply-To: <004501c7c597$ff999fa0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004501c7c597$ff999fa0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F3227@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

About $200..  I just did this and had mine reground by D. Elgin Racing
Cams.  About $100 to regrind and about $100 for heat treating and
nitrating.  You will need a new set of lifters.  APT has a bunch of
performance grinds for around 200 also.

-----Original Message-----

I'm starting a rebuild on my 66MGB engine.  I know there is wear on the
cam.
Several of the tappets were badly worn.  Moss Motors has a sale price on
a new
cam.  Can anyone tell me what it might cost to have the original cam
reground
(a stock, street profile)??
Am I better off just buying the new cam or sending my old one out to a
specialty shop?
Any help is always appreciated.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB
_______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 13 16:25:10 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:25:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
In-Reply-To: <071320071917.14853.4697CFC900099B0F00003A0522120207849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <432026.88882.qm@web82813.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

the b hive http://bhive.tierranet.com/ has a lot of correct parts which others don't.  they are in the carolinas; i've had good experience getting parts from them.

cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:  Hello list.
I'm trying to find a new parts supplier for my mgs. Skip Kelseys shadetreemotors 
is having it's cosing up shop sale. locals only (no shipping) and cash or check 
prefered.

From james.nazarian at gmail.com  Fri Jul 13 16:35:34 2007
From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:35:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C70E544@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <002f01c7c59e$21026c20$6400a8c0@theendindeed>

As others have said, it's all about offset and tires.  I have 15x6s on my V8
with 25mm offset for street wheels.  The tires are 205x50R15 and I had to
roll the fender lips  to make it work.  My slicks are 15x7 with 22mm offset
IIRC and the same size tire and they don't rub either.  

To roll the lips I used a 2lb sledge on the inside and a 2lb rubber mallet
on the outside to back up the sheet metal.  The work isn't visible from the
outside, but I wouldn't do this after painting.

The axle will stay much better located if all the suspension bushings are
replaced with urethane.  I've never had any tire rub with these parts, while
my roadster has stock bushings, wheels and 185x70R14 tires.  The tires on
the roadster rub the inner fenders when autocrossing.

IIRC on both of my cars, the axle is offset 1/4" to one side.

James


?> -----Original Message-----
?> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
?> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
?dannyvarnado
?> Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 6:08 PM
?> To: James Nazarian; 'Larry Colen'
?> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
?> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
?> 
?> Can anyone tell me if 15" X 6" wheels will work on an MGB?  I'm
?planning
?> on
?> running 195/60/15 tires.
?> Also, Is there a "proper technique" to roll the rear fender lip?
?> Tks,
?> Danny V
?> '76 MGB V-6 project
?> 
?> 
?> ----- Original Message -----
?> From: "James Nazarian" <james.nazarian at gmail.com>
?> To: "'Larry Colen'" <lrc at red4est.com>
?> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
?> Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 7:10 PM
?> Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
?> 
?> 
?> >I run 205x50R15s on my V8.  Both the race and street tires fit with
?only
?> > having to roll the rear fender lips.  I use polyurethane 
?bushings in
?the
?> > whole suspension and have never seen any signs of tires rubbing
?> anywhere.
?> > OTOH I have 185x70R14s on the roadster with stock rubber bushings
?(and
?> > wheels) and they rub the insides of the rear wheel wells.  
?They only
?rub
?> > enough to buff the dirt off and only when autocrossing.
?> >
?> > FWIW,
?> > James
?> >
?> > ?-----Original Message-----
?> > ?From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net
?> > ?[mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Colen
?> > ?Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 12:04 PM
?> > ?To: FlynShoot at aol.com
?> > ?Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
?> > ?Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
?> > ?
?> > ?If I recall correctly, you can run up to 195-60-14 on an MGB 
?> > ?before things start getting tricky. You may need to roll the 
?> > ?fenderlips to keep them from rubbing in the back.
?> > ?
?> > ?--
?> > ?                All your apex are belong to us.
?> > ?Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com
?> > ?http://www.red4est.com/lrc
?> > _______________________________________________
?> > dannyvarnado at cox.net
?> >
?> > Edit your replies
?> >
?> > Mgs at autox.team.net
?> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
?> _______________________________________________
?> doddk at mossmotors.com
?> 
?> Edit your replies
?> 
?> Mgs at autox.team.net
?> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 13 16:23:15 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:23:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cam costs
In-Reply-To: <004501c7c597$ff999fa0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <C2BD4963.118A0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Eek, MG cams are expensive compared to American V8 cams. I didn't see a sale
price on the Moss site.

But machine shop work is expensive, too. It would only take about 3 hours of
shop time to hit the price of a new cam. I don't know if anyone has an
exchange service. Remember, you'll need a new set of lifters, too, either
way.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/13/07 2:51 PM, Ron Fine at RonFineEsq at earthlink.net wrote:

> I'm starting a rebuild on my 66MGB engine.  I know there is wear on the cam.
> Several of the tappets were badly worn.  Moss Motors has a sale price on a new
> cam.  Can anyone tell me what it might cost to have the original cam reground
> (a stock, street profile)??
> Am I better off just buying the new cam or sending my old one out to a
> specialty shop?
> Any help is always appreciated.
> 
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
> 66 MGB

From cattias at ucsc.edu  Fri Jul 13 19:55:45 2007
From: cattias at ucsc.edu (Christopher J Attias)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:55:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cams and Parts
Message-ID: <web-170144427@iron.ucsc.edu>

I like O'Connors.  They keep a lot of parts on the shelf, 
and have some used and rebuilt parts as well...and advice. 
 I can live with Moss list price on most things.  As far 
as I know, Brian does sell at Moss sale prices when they 
have  a special.  The last time I checked, they weren't 
offering service, as JR is now with Collins Classics in 
Burlingame.

I have bought cams from APT in Riverside that I've been 
happy with.  Elgin is great -- and local.

Chris
1964 MGB Roadster

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Jul 13 10:00:53 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 09:00:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs]  175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C70E54B@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Danny: I forgot to trim my initial post, so hopefully this does not get
duplicated.




> It has everything to do with offset.
>
> I'm at home right now, so don't have fast access. Go to the Moss
website
> and find the listing for MGB wheels. Then look at the Panasport
listings.
> I've measured the offset and listed it under each wheel as "more
> information".
>
> You will see that the 14" Panasport has less offset than the 15"
version.
> I still don't know why this is, but have been working with them to fix
it.
> The 14" Panasport is not a great fit for the B, but the offset of the
15"
> at +22mm is about perfect to center the wheel in the well.
>
> You can handle a tad more offset, but then the tire will start rubbing
the
> inner fender when one side of the suspension is compressed when
> maneuvering through drainage dips, driveways, etc.
>
> Make sure that whatever wheels you get have a similar offset to this.
The
> sport wheels listed (Minataur or SCP brand) also have the correct
offset
> both in 14 and 15".
>
> The offset is pretty large, almost to FWD specification.
>
> On either the Panasport 15" or Minataur a 195/60 -15 will fit with no
> problem*.    * small print. Some rear axle locations can be way off
> center, my comment is based on a typical MGB with typical clearance on
the
> left rear.
>
> I have run 205/60 15 tires on the Minataur rim without having to roll
the
> fenders but that was with a wire wheel axle and spacers so I could
center
> the wheel exactly where I wanted it.
>
> Note: This does not hold true for the 15" knock off sport wheel. I did
> have rub problems with 195/60-15 tires on a stock fender 1965 MGB
> (lowered). These wheels have a bit less fitted offset than the bolt on
> versions.
>
> More small print. Tires of the same stated size vary dramatically in
> sidewall bulge. One brand may fit without a problem, another can be a
> PITA.
>
> Also. Check clearance with two people in the car, going round tight
> corners at speed. There is ABSOLUTELY nothing worse than commenting to
> your passenger that the tires didn't rub till they got in the car!!!
> Especially if it is your spouse or sig. other.  BTDT still have the
scars.
>
>
> Be very, very careful doing any work to the fender lips. IMHO the MGB
has
> a beautiful rear body line. If you are not careful, rolling the fender
lip
> can push this line out of place leaving to my eyes an unsightly flare
to
> the rear arch. BTDT, didn't like it. I love fender flares on a B, but
that
> little bump over the rear tire for clearance doesn't do anything for
me
> especially when the sun is sinking and highlighting what should be a
crisp
> fender line.
>
> Baseball bats may be the approved method with NASCAR, but it's really
> tricky to do the job correctly. There is a proper tool for doing the
job,
> but it is pricey. Maybe we want to think about chipping in for one so
the
> Ricky Racers (including myself) can share it.
>
> Has anyone used the Eastwood type tool on a B? I'd be interested in
> feedback as I do need to roll the fenders on my race car and MGB V8 at
> some time.
>
> You can get a bit more clearance by grinding the lip, but this
prevents
> you from ever rolling it properly and also is likely to give you a
place
> for corrosion to set in.
>
> If you want really fat tires, install proper flares.
>
> My apologies for rambling. I'm at home waiting for the car to dry
before
> motoring to Vegas to attend a class in Blacksmithing.  Come to think
of
> it, the perfect experience for beating rear fenders back into shape.
>
>
>
> Kelvin Dodd
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dannyvarnado
> > Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 6:08 PM
> > To: James Nazarian; 'Larry Colen'
> > Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 175/65/14 Tires for MGB???
> >
> > Can anyone tell me if 15" X 6" wheels will work on an MGB?  I'm
planning
> > on
> > running 195/60/15 tires.
> > Also, Is there a "proper technique" to roll the rear fender lip?
> > Tks,
> > Danny V
> > '76 MGB V-6 project

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 13 20:22:31 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2007 19:22:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] More brake and wheel well pix
Message-ID: <511218.25411.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello friends,
   I'm still waiting for the front caliper piston
seals so I have moved my attention to the rear axle
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0651.JPG .  Dissasembly
of the driver's side is now complete
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0693.JPG ,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0695.JPG . 
   With the brakes removed I decided to clean and
repaint the backing plate gloss black,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0697.JPG  
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0698.JPG ,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0699.JPG ,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0700.JPG .  I then
realized how bad the wheel well looked
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0701.JPG , so I painted
it semi-gloss black
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0696.JPG and moved to the
front http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0702.JPG and
painted that wheel well black
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0703.JPG .  In all these
pictures, the paint is still wet and looks glossy
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0707.JPG .  And of
course, the flash always makes paint look glossy.
   Once the paint dries (over tonight) I can begin
reassembling the rear brake.  I have all the parts for
that work - new brake shoes and new brake slave
cylinders.  I need to clean and refinish the adjuster,
springs, assorted hardware and handbrake levers.  Once
that is all complete, I can button-up that corner. 
One down, 2-1/2 to go!

Regards,

rick
'70 MGB
'79 308GTB

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 14 06:40:23 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 13:40:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re: 18 cylinders of MG
References: <688390.35787.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <056001c7c615$964a19c0$0200a8c0@Three>

No, FWD.  The ZT-T 260 *is* RWD though - 
http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/06032006/45/mg-zt-t-260-0.html

Paul.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Paul, I just joined this thread and have but one
> question:  Is it rear-wheel drive?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 14 06:55:15 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 13:55:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF650@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <05d401c7c617$b07dcb50$0200a8c0@Three>

How does it differ from the 15W/50 in the red 'can'?

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Planning an oil change soon.  The only 20W50 oil Halfords sell is their 
> own
> brand "Classic Motor Oil", which would appear to be appropriate as it is 
> the
> right viscosity and is aimed squarely at our cars. 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 14 07:52:15 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 06:52:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Diff oil
Message-ID: <107497.80730.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello friends,
   Is there a consensus on which 90w diff oil is best
for a non-rebuilt later-style MGB differential.  Any
additive recommended?

rick

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Jul 14 08:19:01 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 15:19:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Diff oil
References: <107497.80730.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <061301c7c622$6103dfa0$0200a8c0@Three>

The first part is liable to results in loads of opinions and no definitive
answer.  Whether rebuilt or not the MGB axle isn't that particular and any
decent quality oil will be fine.

The 2nd part the reverse i.e. don't use additives.

Funnily enough I've just got back from a tour of 1st World War battlefields
in Belgium where I met a chap who was a senior engineer at Laycocks involved
in the design of MGB gearboxes, overdrives and rear axles, and later worked
at Abingdon from the mid-60s to mid-70s.  If you'd asked earlier I could 
have asked him, he said to call if I have any questions.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   Is there a consensus on which 90w diff oil is best
> for a non-rebuilt later-style MGB differential.  Any
> additive recommended?

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Sat Jul 14 08:26:36 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 09:26:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] University Motors
Message-ID: <001801c7c622$fddc9d30$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

Found this You Tube site on another forum.  Many helpful videos.
http://www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd
Maynard

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 14 09:00:14 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 08:00:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Diff oil
In-Reply-To: <061301c7c622$6103dfa0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <606093.26987.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks Paul.  I have never used anything other than
off-the-shelf petroleum oils anywhere in MGs but with
wear, I just wondered if you had found anything that
made an improvement is specific examples.

regards,

rick
--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> The first part is liable to results in loads of
> opinions and no definitive
> answer.  Whether rebuilt or not the MGB axle isn't
> that particular and any
> decent quality oil will be fine.
> 
> The 2nd part the reverse i.e. don't use additives.
> 
> Funnily enough I've just got back from a tour of 1st
> World War battlefields
> in Belgium where I met a chap who was a senior
> engineer at Laycocks involved
> in the design of MGB gearboxes, overdrives and rear
> axles, and later worked
> at Abingdon from the mid-60s to mid-70s.  If you'd
> asked earlier I could 
> have asked him, he said to call if I have any
> questions.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   Is there a consensus on which 90w diff oil is
> best
> > for a non-rebuilt later-style MGB differential. 
> Any
> > additive recommended?

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 14 09:56:56 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 08:56:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
In-Reply-To: <071320071955.24892.4697D8B20009D8B50000613C22120207849F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <645589.11716.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

cyberemp at comcast.net wrote: thanks 
I understand, everyone will have their own opinion. 
I'm really looking for places to avoid. I think it was "the roadster factory" that got bad postings here. (Disclaimer. My memory might be wrong, i don't want to put out bad press about a co. that doesn't deserve it This is not an opinion, expressed or implied about the above named entity. Just a hazy recollection of a rumor of an innuendo of a whisper in the dark as a freight trail went by).
Etc etc etc.
----------------------
Eric, I think it was probably The Proper MG that you're thinking of. They went out of business for a while, after taking people's money and never delivering the parts. The supposedly are back in business under 'new management' but I wouldn't trust them. I had ordered from them in the past with mixed results.

AFAIK, The Rpadster Factory is legit and okay, although I have no ersonal experience with them.



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Jul 14 10:32:08 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 09:32:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
Message-ID: <3B821354-465F-4C27-AA0C-984E1DE04633@panix.com>

Well, crap.

Here it is, one week from tomorrow and I leave for Petaluma.  Trip is  
all planned, I've figured out where I'm staying along the way, I've  
made arrangements to board the cat, etc...

I tried to take the car out to the local farm shop I've used on  
occasion to do maintenance and inspections.

So of course, there's a truck without wheels on the lift.  Undaunted,  
I did some tuning.  I managed to make the timing worse.  Runs fine,  
but now it runs hot.  Whoops, I'll try again when I'm not frustrated.

While I had the filters off the carbs, I happened to look up, and saw  
this:

http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/tmp/P1000071.jpg

Yup, wet green stuff leaking out of my heater.  That certainly  
explains the odor of coolant I've occasionally smelled in the past.   
I don't know how long it's looked like that, but it's a fairly new  
development.

Ugh.  I'm leaving in a week.  I don't have the time or energy to fix  
a heater core.  I *know* what that involves, and I'm not ready to  
take that on.

So, given that I'll be driving 2100 miles in 9 days, much of it on  
lonely roads in eastern Oregon, I don't think it's a good idea to  
pretend I didn't see the leak and just carry extra coolant.

So my options are now
  * bypass it and hope I don't need the heater (remember, car has  
shown a propensity to run hot)
  * run some of that radiator snake oil stuff
  * take the Subaru instead

Advice?

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/
  '75 MGB (red for now), HIF4 carbs
  '06 Subaru Impreza Outback

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Jul 14 10:46:50 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 11:46:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
In-Reply-To: <3B821354-465F-4C27-AA0C-984E1DE04633@panix.com>
References: <3B821354-465F-4C27-AA0C-984E1DE04633@panix.com>
Message-ID: <E027DA1F-DEC6-4DE8-988D-9C284FE3AFCA@gmail.com>

If you think it's fine otherwise, bypass it and take a lap blanket.

Last fall I took my Subaru to the Run Offs in Topeka, instead of the B.
It rained hard on Sunday, so it was probably a good idea. But I'd
rather have taken the B.


On Jul 14, 2007, at 11:32 AM, Aaron Whiteman wrote:

> Well, crap.
>
> Here it is, one week from tomorrow and I leave for Petaluma.  Trip is
> all planned, I've figured out where I'm staying along the way, I've
> made arrangements to board the cat, etc...
>
> I tried to take the car out to the local farm shop I've used on
> occasion to do maintenance and inspections.
>
> So of course, there's a truck without wheels on the lift.  Undaunted,
> I did some tuning.  I managed to make the timing worse.  Runs fine,
> but now it runs hot.  Whoops, I'll try again when I'm not frustrated.
>
> While I had the filters off the carbs, I happened to look up, and saw
> this:
>
> http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/tmp/P1000071.jpg
>
> Yup, wet green stuff leaking out of my heater.  That certainly
> explains the odor of coolant I've occasionally smelled in the past.
> I don't know how long it's looked like that, but it's a fairly new
> development.
>
> Ugh.  I'm leaving in a week.  I don't have the time or energy to fix
> a heater core.  I *know* what that involves, and I'm not ready to
> take that on.
>
> So, given that I'll be driving 2100 miles in 9 days, much of it on
> lonely roads in eastern Oregon, I don't think it's a good idea to
> pretend I didn't see the leak and just carry extra coolant.
>
> So my options are now
>   * bypass it and hope I don't need the heater (remember, car has
> shown a propensity to run hot)
>   * run some of that radiator snake oil stuff
>   * take the Subaru instead
>
> Advice?
>
> --  
> Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/
>   '75 MGB (red for now), HIF4 carbs
>   '06 Subaru Impreza Outback
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7- 
> signature which had a name of smime.p7s]
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
77 MGB
99 OBS

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 14 11:13:36 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 10:13:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
In-Reply-To: <3B821354-465F-4C27-AA0C-984E1DE04633@panix.com>
Message-ID: <57137.58962.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It sounds silly but twice in the past I have saved myself in the same situation by dumping a 2oz can of black pepper in the radiator. Seems to do the job very well without clogging things up. Either way I would also crank down on the heater valve. Maybe you are too advanced (running hot)?
   
  The bottom line is that it is easy to make suggestions as I will not be running many miles on lonely roads. Get as much advice as you can and good luck. I hope you take the MG anyways.
  Carl French

Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote:
  Well, crap.

Here it is, one week from tomorrow and I leave for Petaluma. Trip is 
all planned, I've figured out where I'm staying along the way, I've 
made arrangements to board the cat, etc...

I tried to take the car out to the local farm shop I've used on 
occasion to do maintenance and inspections.

So of course, there's a truck without wheels on the lift. Undaunted, 
I did some tuning. I managed to make the timing worse. Runs fine, 
but now it runs hot. Whoops, I'll try again when I'm not frustrated.

While I had the filters off the carbs, I happened to look up, and saw 
this:

http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/tmp/P1000071.jpg

Yup, wet green stuff leaking out of my heater. That certainly 
explains the odor of coolant I've occasionally smelled in the past. 
I don't know how long it's looked like that, but it's a fairly new 
development.
 
---------------------------------
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sat Jul 14 12:21:30 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 18:21:30 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] parts supplier info
Message-ID: <071420071821.21868.4699142A0007651B0000556C22165279669F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

thank you dan.
My Apologys to the roadster factory. Glad I put that "disclaimer" in there.

Thanks to everyone for their advice. I have a great list of parts scources now  :-)
Now I just need the $ to buy the parts with. Like my great grandfather Grandpa daine Egan O'danna used to say, It's always something!!

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> cyberemp at comcast.net wrote: thanks 
> I understand, everyone will have their own opinion. 
> I'm really looking for places to avoid. I think it was "the roadster factory" 
> that got bad postings here. (Disclaimer. My memory might be wrong, i don't want 
> to put out bad press about a co. that doesn't deserve it This is not an opinion, 
> expressed or implied about the above named entity. Just a hazy recollection of a 
> rumor of an innuendo of a whisper in the dark as a freight trail went by).
> Etc etc etc.
> ----------------------
> Eric, I think it was probably The Proper MG that you're thinking of. They went 
> out of business for a while, after taking people's money and never delivering > AFAIK, The Rpadster Factory is legit and okay, although I have no ersonal 
> experience with them.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 14 13:54:32 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 12:54:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Buttoning up the left rear
Message-ID: <948356.62517.qm@web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Woah!  That Re-line sounds a little 'WRONG".  Sorry.

   Gang, I've been building brakes today.
   First step, after refurbishing all the bits, was to
install the new cylinder and freshened adjuster
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0714.JPG .  I then
installed the brake shoes
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0718.JPG .  With that all
done, I installed the drum
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0719.JPG ,
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0721.JPG .
   The yellow paint on the nuts is a trick I picked up
at the Ferrari factory.  The dab of yellow paint
indicates the nut has been torqued.  It makes an easy
check upon reassembly, to know that everything is
right.

Regards,

rick

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Jul 14 13:56:24 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 15:56:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Diff oil
Message-ID: <20070714.160027.3204.0.MGBOB@juno.com>

Rick,
   When several of us in our club replaced thrust washers in rear axles
of our MGBs, we changed to synthetic oil.
   There was no wear that we could determine on the gears, though thrust
washers were quite worn on all cars but one, and in that car two washers
were missing.  
   Will the synthetic oil reduce wear? I don't know, but I have
experienced that the car rolls more easily in cold (20 F) weather. 
Bob

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Jul 14 13:59:22 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 15:59:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
Message-ID: <20070714.160027.3204.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

Aaron,
   Unless you think you will need heat on your feet from the heater, it's
OK to isolate it from the rest of the cooling system.  After all, it was
an option on MGBs for some markets.  I'd say just bypass the thing and
enjoy the trip.
Bob
 
On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 09:32:08 -0700 Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com>
writes:
> Well, crap.
> 
> Here it is, one week from tomorrow and I leave for Petaluma.  Trip 

From Steve at shoyer.com  Sat Jul 14 14:13:19 2007
From: Steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 16:13:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
In-Reply-To: <3B821354-465F-4C27-AA0C-984E1DE04633@panix.com>
References: <3B821354-465F-4C27-AA0C-984E1DE04633@panix.com>
Message-ID: <97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B8F5@shoyerserver.shoyer.com>

My car's been on bypass for about a year and a half, without any issues
(other than my being cold in the winter).  I have a new core that will
be replaced as soon as I have enough beer on hand.  The last time I
replaced the heater, I kinked the control wire, but I decided that being
cold was better than pulling the heater and replacing it.

--Steve (1980 MGB)

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=shoyer.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=shoyer.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Aaron
Whiteman
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 12:32 PM
To: MG Mailing List
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice

...

So my options are now
  * bypass it and hope I don't need the heater (remember, car has
shown a propensity to run hot)
  * run some of that radiator snake oil stuff
  * take the Subaru instead

Advice?
...

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 14 14:27:31 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 15:27:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
References: <57137.58962.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <033501c7c655$67cd3510$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<2oz can of black pepper>>

I have also heard of that numerous times (and it worked), Carl.

<<Maybe you are too advanced (running hot)?>>

That also can affect coolent temp.

Aaron, the bypass is ALSO a good udea and has been done sucessfully numerous
times!!

Ed

From mg.carma at verizon.net  Sat Jul 14 17:09:15 2007
From: mg.carma at verizon.net (Kevin Richards)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 19:09:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Lucas 25D rebuild advice...
Message-ID: <7AD55BFB-7437-4198-808A-E4C7159A2B75@verizon.net>

Hi there, I have never rebuilt a distributor before, so I am looking  
for online resources such as PDF files that show the "Blown-up"  
diagram that shows how it all goes together.
Any sage advice much appreciated.
cheers
Kevin Richards
62 mga

From yd3 at nvc.net  Sat Jul 14 18:39:27 2007
From: yd3 at nvc.net (Bullwinkle)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 19:39:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Barre Lyndon 'trilogy
In-Reply-To: <7AD55BFB-7437-4198-808A-E4C7159A2B75@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <PC1760200707141939270100723a6e2f@yd3>

All:

I have one copy each of Barre Lyndon's trilogy on Grand Prix racing in
1933,34,35. The book titles are "Grand Prix", "Circuit Dust", and
"Combat." Books are used in good to very good condition. There are no
dust jackets. Circuit Dust has some none removable stains on the
covers. Pages are complete and tight. Most of these books go for $100
or more each. $240 including shipping for all three.

Blake Uban

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 15 03:15:43 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 10:15:43 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
References: <20070714.160027.3204.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <006401c7c6c1$e5557800$0200a8c0@Three>

Not only that, but in the summer it is probably off i.e. not flowing any 
coolant anyway.  If your valve shuts off fully then you can get away with 
removing the left-hand (facing forwards)  hose i.e. the one that connects to 
the pipe by the rocker cover from the heater and plugging it with an old 
spark-plug and hose clip.  If the valve doesn't fully shut off, or to be 
sure it won't leak, do the same with the other hose as well.  The two hoses 
don't need to be connected together.  If your summer is anything like ours 
i.e. raining every day you might need to clear the screen from time to time, 
but the air direction and flow will be just the same, and cold air is 
actually better at that than hot anyway.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... it's
> OK to isolate it from the rest of the cooling system.  After all, it was
> an option on MGBs for some markets.  I'd say just bypass the thing and
> enjoy the trip.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 15 03:42:24 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 10:42:24 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Lucas 25D rebuild advice...
References: <7AD55BFB-7437-4198-808A-E4C7159A2B75@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <009c01c7c6c6$185757b0$0200a8c0@Three>

For reassembly take pictures or make notes as you dismantle, it's all pretty 
obvious how it goes together, apart from the visible bits there are only two 
springs and two weights under the points plate.  Whilst the two weights 
should be the same, the two springs should be different, but it doesn't 
matter which spring goes where.  The bit that *isn't* obvious is that the 
top half of the spindle fits to the lower half in one of two positions, i.e. 
180 degrees apart from each other, but only one of them is strictly correct. 
This is because the lower half is keyed to the drive gear in the block with 
an offset slot and dog, and the rotor is keyed to the upper half with a 
keyway.  Get it wrong and the rotor will be 180 degrees out to how it was 
before.  It's no big deal as you simply move the plug leads two positions 
round the cap, but to get it right note the relative positions of the dog 
and keyway before you start.  Look carefully, as the dog and slot are only 
just off-centre.

If you haven't changed points before it is quite common to get that assembly 
wrong.  A stepped insulator goes on the threaded stud first, step facing 
upwards.  Points next with the hole on the spring fitted over the step. 
Next the condenser and coil tags, in either order.  Next another stepped 
washer, this time with the step facing downwards, going through the holes in 
the two tags and the spring.  Finally the nut.  The stepped washers keep the 
points spring and tags clear of the grounded stud, if they contact it the 
points will be shorted out and the engine won't run.

There should be a very flexible braided ground wire between the moving 
points plate (moved by the vacuum capsule) and the body of the distributor. 
If this is in bad condition you can get no or intermittent current flow 
through the coil.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Hi there, I have never rebuilt a distributor before, so I am looking
> for online resources such as PDF files that show the "Blown-up"
> diagram that shows how it all goes together.

From mjanacek at snet.net  Sun Jul 15 07:21:00 2007
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:21:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
References: <20070714.160027.3204.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<006401c7c6c1$e5557800$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <004301c7c6e2$fdddf980$8244fc40@DESKTOP>

If the valve *is* leaking you can remove the valve and make a new gasket 
from gasket material, but with no center water hole and reinstall the 
defective valve. BTDT

mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <awhitema at panix.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] heater core leak advice


> Not only that, but in the summer it is probably off i.e. not flowing any
> coolant anyway.  If your valve shuts off fully then you can get away with
> removing the left-hand (facing forwards)  hose i.e. the one that connects 
> to
> the pipe by the rocker cover from the heater and plugging it with an old
> spark-plug and hose clip.  If the valve doesn't fully shut off, or to be
> sure it won't leak, do the same with the other hose as well.  The two 
> hoses
> don't need to be connected together.  If your summer is anything like ours
> i.e. raining every day you might need to clear the screen from time to 
> time,
> but the air direction and flow will be just the same, and cold air is
> actually better at that than hot anyway.
>
> PaulH.

From mjanacek at snet.net  Sun Jul 15 07:30:14 2007
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 09:30:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Lucas 25D rebuild advice...
References: <7AD55BFB-7437-4198-808A-E4C7159A2B75@verizon.net>
	<009c01c7c6c6$185757b0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <004a01c7c6e4$480308b0$8244fc40@DESKTOP>

Re: very flexible braided ground wire

This part if needed might be available at your local electronics supply 
store such as Radio Shack.
Look for solder wicking used for desoldering electronic parts.
You would have to add your own ends on it though.

Mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Kevin Richards" <mg.carma at verizon.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 5:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lucas 25D rebuild advice...


<SNIP>
> There should be a very flexible braided ground wire between the moving
> points plate (moved by the vacuum capsule) and the body of the 
> distributor.
> If this is in bad condition you can get no or intermittent current flow
> through the coil.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> Hi there, I have never rebuilt a distributor before, so I am looking
>> for online resources such as PDF files that show the "Blown-up"
>> diagram that shows how it all goes together.

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Jul 15 07:53:39 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 06:53:39 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
In-Reply-To: <006401c7c6c1$e5557800$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <20070714.160027.3204.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<006401c7c6c1$e5557800$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <614F794B-4403-4FEC-8468-B3C5BCB7C932@panix.com>

On Jul 15, 2007, at 2:15 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Not only that, but in the summer it is probably off i.e. not  
> flowing any coolant anyway.  If your valve shuts off fully then you  
> can get away with removing the left-hand (facing forwards)  hose  
> i.e. the one that connects to the pipe by the rocker cover from the  
> heater and plugging it with an old spark-plug and hose clip.

The valve is new within the last few years and does not leak, but  
just to be safe, I completely bypassed the core anyway.  2 feet of  
heater hose (more than required) and two bypass caps are less than $5  
and the job is done.

My concern re: the heater was not as much providing heat to the  
cabin, but to provide additional cooling capacity to the engine.  It  
was never a particularly effective option in the past, but I felt  
safer having it.

> If your summer is anything like ours i.e. raining every day you  
> might need to clear the screen from time to time, but the air  
> direction and flow will be just the same, and cold air is actually  
> better at that than hot anyway.

Pullman is in a rain shadow.  Our summer is typically highs from  
85-100, lows 50-60.  The only rain is in the form of thunderstorms,  
which bring with them hail and often fire.

We do see rain fairly often in the spring, but that's passed.

Of course, I'll be driving to California along the coast highway.  I  
fully expect to see plenty of fog and some rain.  The return will be  
on the eastern side of the Oregon Cascades, so I expect a hot and dry  
trip.

I think I got the timing back where it belongs, so I'll go out and  
test it later today when it warms up.  It's only 57 now, hardly  
stressful temperatures.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/
  '75 MGB (red for now), HIF4 carbs
  '06 Subaru Impreza Outback

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Sun Jul 15 07:57:59 2007
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 06:57:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Crack of Doom
Message-ID: <011d01c7c6e8$2b8d6eb0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good technique to repair the "Crack
of Doom" on an MGB door?
Tks,
Danny V.
'58 MGA daily driver
'76 MGB V-6 project

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Jul 15 09:08:25 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 16:08:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Crack of Doom
References: <011d01c7c6e8$2b8d6eb0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <00dd01c7c6f2$6beb8190$0200a8c0@Three>

You might like to have a look at 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_bodyframe.htm
and click on 'Doors'.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Can anyone point me in the direction of a good technique to repair the 
> "Crack
> of Doom" on an MGB door?

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 15 09:51:34 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 08:51:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Lucas 25D rebuild advice...
In-Reply-To: <004a01c7c6e4$480308b0$8244fc40@DESKTOP>
Message-ID: <134721.58155.qm@web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

A trick with solder wick:

   First of all, it is designed to wick solder away
from whatever you're de-soldering.  Therefore, if you
solder connectors on the ends it will suck up all the
solder and turn hard as solid metal.  And you should
solder connectors on, so...
   You need to clean the rosin flux from the braided
copper.  You can do this by soaking the solder wick in
brake cleaner (tri-chlor).  This is the same stuff the
industrial dudes used to use to clean rosin/flux from
wave-soldered circuit boards.  This process leaves the
copper very clean so it will still suck up solder like
mad.  When you solder connectors on the ends clamp the
wire with forceps right behind the connector.  Voila! 
You have a very flexible ground wire!

Regards,

rick

--- Mike Janacek <mjanacek at snet.net> wrote:

> Re: very flexible braided ground wire
> 
> This part if needed might be available at your local
> electronics supply 
> store such as Radio Shack.
> Look for solder wicking used for desoldering
> electronic parts.
> You would have to add your own ends on it though.
> 
> Mike
> '79B
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> To: "Kevin Richards" <mg.carma at verizon.net>;
> <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 5:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lucas 25D rebuild advice...
> 
> 
> <SNIP>
> > There should be a very flexible braided ground
> wire between the moving
> > points plate (moved by the vacuum capsule) and the
> body of the 
> > distributor.
> > If this is in bad condition you can get no or
> intermittent current flow
> > through the coil.
> >
> > PaulH.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> Hi there, I have never rebuilt a distributor
> before, so I am looking
> >> for online resources such as PDF files that show
> the "Blown-up"
> >> diagram that shows how it all goes together.
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 15 16:40:38 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:40:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
Message-ID: <9264771D-301D-4AC6-A680-0AFE218A4D60@sbcglobal.net>

I have a couple of questions.  First, my TD drive shaft rubs when I  
take off.  I assume my rear end must be twisting upwards to cause  
this.  Why?  What should I check?

Second, the steering is very touchy but when I let off the gas it  
wants to veer like oversteer.  And when I hit the gas it does the  
same thing.

Suggestions of things to look at?

Thanks, Mike

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Sun Jul 15 17:28:02 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 19:28:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
In-Reply-To: <9264771D-301D-4AC6-A680-0AFE218A4D60@sbcglobal.net>
References: <9264771D-301D-4AC6-A680-0AFE218A4D60@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001301c7c737$ca38fe90$5eaafbb0$@com>

I've never been around a TD, but that sounds like the rear axle is moving
around. Check the fixings for the axle.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Duvall Mike
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 6:41 PM
To: mgs; british-cars at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] TD question

I have a couple of questions.  First, my TD drive shaft rubs when I  
take off.  I assume my rear end must be twisting upwards to cause  
this.  Why?  What should I check?

Second, the steering is very touchy but when I let off the gas it  
wants to veer like oversteer.  And when I hit the gas it does the  
same thing.

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Sun Jul 15 17:51:33 2007
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 19:51:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
In-Reply-To: <9264771D-301D-4AC6-A680-0AFE218A4D60@sbcglobal.net>
References: <9264771D-301D-4AC6-A680-0AFE218A4D60@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <c5eddf2f2950e.2950ec5eddf2f@tampabay.rr.com>

Check your motor mount in front and trans mount, as
well as driveshaft bolts. Also check the ubolts on
the axle. For the steering, also look at your
steering coupler rubber on the shaft. 
Dave Houser

----- Original Message -----
From: Duvall Mike <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sunday, July 15, 2007 6:48 pm
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
To: mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>,
british-cars at autox.team.net

> I have a couple of questions.  First, my TD drive
shaft rubs when I 
> 
> take off.  I assume my rear end must be twisting
upwards to cause  
> this.  Why?  What should I check?
> 
> Second, the steering is very touchy but when I let
off the gas it  
> wants to veer like oversteer.  And when I hit the
gas it does the  
> same thing.
> 
> Suggestions of things to look at?
> 
> Thanks, Mike
> _______________________________________________

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Jul 15 19:02:54 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 18:02:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] University Motors
In-Reply-To: <001801c7c622$fddc9d30$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>
References: <001801c7c622$fddc9d30$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>
Message-ID: <40b437200707151802r8226686m8a47a8ef3ceaa457@mail.gmail.com>

He has a number of videos up, including a nice explanation of how an
MGB gearbox operates.

Regards,
Simon

On 7/14/07, Maynard Hirsch <mghirsch at netzero.net> wrote:
> Found this You Tube site on another forum.  Many helpful videos.
> http://www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd
> Maynard
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sun Jul 15 23:00:55 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 05:00:55 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Parts info?
Message-ID: <071620070500.4468.469AFB87000418A10000117422155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hello List.
I have some MG engine parts aquired in a trade years ago.
they are supposed to fit my 70 MGB, but the label is faded.
box for pistons is squares. whte with yellow circle and white piston. Black rectangles  with AE in some," Piston products Kolbenteile " printed in others, and" Piston products pistons Postoneria" in others.
Part # 19354, that # also printed on inside of cast aluminum pistons. three rings. two compression, one oil control.
these are .040 oversize. 
also have main and rod bearings, but only one box that says "BLMC-MORRIS-OXFORD RIF-1275/M3
ALMETAL  4412.0.1.02
.020
Below that is a stick on lable with numbers 425-150 Below that "M3157M-020
MAIN BRG SET 020.
anyway, posible OEM parts, judging by the piston box. main bearing box says 'product of italy" so, who knows?
Any ideas?
Eric


--
Eric
46 MGTC
59 MGA
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra
03 MINI
So many cars, so little parking

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Mon Jul 16 02:32:29 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:32:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Track Day Oil?
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF657@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Paul asked: "How does it [Halfords Classic Car Oil] differ from the 15W/50 in
the red 'can'?"

Well, it comes in a real steel can (rather than a plastic bottle) with a
picture of an old Mini and a Stag on the front.  And it's #3.00 more
expensive.  Apart from that (and the marginal difference in viscosity),
probably not a lot!!!


Richard & Sammy

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From pryner at verizon.net  Mon Jul 16 06:04:16 2007
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter  Ryner)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:04:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
In-Reply-To: <9264771D-301D-4AC6-A680-0AFE218A4D60@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <NBEEJEGGEGNFFCODHMLKKEEMDCAA.pryner@verizon.net>

Mike,
Sounds like bad motor and or trans mounts to me.  When you take off, the
engine will shift causing the rubbing and also shift when you let off the
gas causing the steering problem.  I'd check them all.  Of course the other
thing to check is your u-joints but you didn't complain of any knocking
noise the normal sound of u-joints going.
Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Duvall Mike
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 6:41 PM
To: mgs; british-cars at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] TD question


I have a couple of questions.  First, my TD drive shaft rubs when I
take off.  I assume my rear end must be twisting upwards to cause
this.  Why?  What should I check?

Second, the steering is very touchy but when I let off the gas it
wants to veer like oversteer.  And when I hit the gas it does the
same thing.

Suggestions of things to look at?

Thanks, Mike
_

From TMcnam4510 at aol.com  Mon Jul 16 07:04:15 2007
From: TMcnam4510 at aol.com (TMcnam4510 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:04:15 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
Message-ID: <ce1.15081991.33ccc6cf@aol.com>

Hey Mike, I had a very similar experience when I first got my TD,  I  finally 
figured out that the PDO had neglected to install the engine steady that  
mounts under the water pump and goes to the bracket placed there just for  it.  
Hope this helps, Tom TC 2850



************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon Jul 16 07:26:49 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (ejrussell at mebtel.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 01:26:49 -1200
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
Message-ID: <469b7219.36f.97b5.1830422735@ml2.myemail.com>

Check for loose/broken axle to spring U-bolts or a broken
leaf spring.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

> 
> I have a couple of questions.  First, my TD drive shaft
> rubs when I take off.  I assume my rear end must be
> twisting upwards to cause this.  Why?  What should I
> check?
> 
> Second, the steering is very touchy but when I let off the
> gas it wants to veer like oversteer.  And when I hit the
> gas it does the same thing.
> 
> Suggestions of things to look at?
> 
> Thanks, Mike
Login from home, work, school.  Anywhere!

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Mon Jul 16 09:26:00 2007
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:26:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Cams and Parts
In-Reply-To: <web-170144427@iron.ucsc.edu>
References: <web-170144427@iron.ucsc.edu>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F322B@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

Dema Elgin has moved from Redwood City up to Napa..  I got the last cam
to come out of the Redwood City shop...

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Christopher J Attias
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 6:56 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cams and Parts

I like O'Connors.  They keep a lot of parts on the shelf,
and have some used and rebuilt parts as well...and advice.
 I can live with Moss list price on most things.  As far
as I know, Brian does sell at Moss sale prices when they
have  a special.  The last time I checked, they weren't
offering service, as JR is now with Collins Classics in
Burlingame.

I have bought cams from APT in Riverside that I've been
happy with.  Elgin is great -- and local.

Chris
1964 MGB Roadster
_______________________________________________

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 16 10:50:08 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:50:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
In-Reply-To: <3B821354-465F-4C27-AA0C-984E1DE04633@panix.com>
Message-ID: <C2C0EFD0.1193A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Just bypass the heater core with a loop of hose. It's the middle of summer,
and if it gets cold enough to want it, it would have just blown lukewarm,
anyway <g>.


on 7/14/07 9:32 AM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote:

> Well, crap.
> 
> Here it is, one week from tomorrow and I leave for Petaluma.  Trip is
> all planned, I've figured out where I'm staying along the way, I've
> made arrangements to board the cat, etc...
> 
> I tried to take the car out to the local farm shop I've used on
> occasion to do maintenance and inspections.
> 
> So of course, there's a truck without wheels on the lift.  Undaunted,
> I did some tuning.  I managed to make the timing worse.  Runs fine,
> but now it runs hot.  Whoops, I'll try again when I'm not frustrated.
> 
> While I had the filters off the carbs, I happened to look up, and saw
> this:
> 
> http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/tmp/P1000071.jpg
> 
> Yup, wet green stuff leaking out of my heater.  That certainly
> explains the odor of coolant I've occasionally smelled in the past.
> I don't know how long it's looked like that, but it's a fairly new
> development.
> 
> Ugh.  I'm leaving in a week.  I don't have the time or energy to fix
> a heater core.  I *know* what that involves, and I'm not ready to
> take that on.
> 
> So, given that I'll be driving 2100 miles in 9 days, much of it on
> lonely roads in eastern Oregon, I don't think it's a good idea to
> pretend I didn't see the leak and just carry extra coolant.
> 
> So my options are now
>   * bypass it and hope I don't need the heater (remember, car has
> shown a propensity to run hot)
>   * run some of that radiator snake oil stuff
>   * take the Subaru instead
> 
> Advice?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 16 11:00:12 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:00:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] heater core leak advice
In-Reply-To: <614F794B-4403-4FEC-8468-B3C5BCB7C932@panix.com>
Message-ID: <C2C0F22C.1193C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

If you're really concerned, buy the new heater core now and fit it into your
bypass loop, locating it somewhere with some airflow, as an auxiliary
radiator.

If your MG is running hot at highway speeds, there is definitely something
unusual going on (bad timing, clogged radiator, crud in the water passages).
Mine only climbs off the 190 mark if it is sitting still after running fast
in hot weather, or in bumper-to-bumper traffic.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 7/15/07 6:53 AM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote:

> On Jul 15, 2007, at 2:15 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
> 
>> Not only that, but in the summer it is probably off i.e. not
>> flowing any coolant anyway.  If your valve shuts off fully then you
>> can get away with removing the left-hand (facing forwards)  hose
>> i.e. the one that connects to the pipe by the rocker cover from the
>> heater and plugging it with an old spark-plug and hose clip.
> 
> The valve is new within the last few years and does not leak, but
> just to be safe, I completely bypassed the core anyway.  2 feet of
> heater hose (more than required) and two bypass caps are less than $5
> and the job is done.
> 
> My concern re: the heater was not as much providing heat to the
> cabin, but to provide additional cooling capacity to the engine.  It
> was never a particularly effective option in the past, but I felt
> safer having it.
> 
>> If your summer is anything like ours i.e. raining every day you
>> might need to clear the screen from time to time, but the air
>> direction and flow will be just the same, and cold air is actually
>> better at that than hot anyway.
> 
> Pullman is in a rain shadow.  Our summer is typically highs from
> 85-100, lows 50-60.  The only rain is in the form of thunderstorms,
> which bring with them hail and often fire.
> 
> We do see rain fairly often in the spring, but that's passed.
> 
> Of course, I'll be driving to California along the coast highway.  I
> fully expect to see plenty of fog and some rain.  The return will be
> on the eastern side of the Oregon Cascades, so I expect a hot and dry
> trip.
> 
> I think I got the timing back where it belongs, so I'll go out and
> test it later today when it warms up.  It's only 57 now, hardly
> stressful temperatures.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 16 11:01:26 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:01:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] TD question
In-Reply-To: <9264771D-301D-4AC6-A680-0AFE218A4D60@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C2C0F276.1193D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Sounds like the rear axle is loose, on both counts.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/15/07 3:40 PM, Duvall Mike at duvallcom at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> I have a couple of questions.  First, my TD drive shaft rubs when I
> take off.  I assume my rear end must be twisting upwards to cause
> this.  Why?  What should I check?
> 
> Second, the steering is very touchy but when I let off the gas it
> wants to veer like oversteer.  And when I hit the gas it does the
> same thing.
> 
> Suggestions of things to look at?
> 
> Thanks, Mike

From g.schnittke at comcast.net  Mon Jul 16 21:39:50 2007
From: g.schnittke at comcast.net (Glenn Schnittke)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:39:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump numbers
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.1.20070716205902.00c38030@mail.comcast.net>

I have a few new and NOS fuel pumps laying around and I'm wondering if any 
of them are the right unit for a '67 MGB.

Anyone have the SU p/n for a 67 B?

Glenn
"Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice Doggie' until you can find a rock."

	- Will Rogers

Glenn Schnittke
g.schnittke at comcast.net
glenn.schnittke at vanderbilt.edu

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 17 02:02:08 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 09:02:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump numbers
References: <5.1.0.14.1.20070716205902.00c38030@mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005c01c7c848$cd2bd1b0$0200a8c0@Three>

The SU Burlen site seems to go by the same part numbers used in the Leyland 
Parts catalogue.  These were AUB 182 up to chassis number 44438 (Dec 62), 
AUF 305 after that.  However Clausager quotes AUA 150/AUB 182 to Aug 64, 
then AUF 301/303, from Feb 68 AUF 305, and from Jan 77 AZX 1307.  These last 
two were fully interchangeable.

The Burlen site http://www.burlen.co.uk/suPumpSearch.aspx seems pretty crap 
to me.  It's pump search page for marque and model just comes up with carbs, 
and if you search using a part number e.g. auf 305 (or auf305, AUF 305, 
AUF305) it always comes up with zero.  The only mechanical pumps they supply 
seem to be the later AZX type with diode protection, but you think they 
would have cross-referenced the earlier types to these seeing as how they 
are interchangeable - the AUF 305 at least.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Anyone have the SU p/n for a 67 B?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 17 02:06:31 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 09:06:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Action Donation Services
Message-ID: <006b01c7c849$f185bcf0$0200a8c0@Three>

Anyone know anything about these people?

http://actiondonations.org/InfoForCharities.html

From prbasmith at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 08:04:21 2007
From: prbasmith at gmail.com (Preston Smith)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:04:21 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
Message-ID: <469CCC65.4030106@gmail.com>

Good day all!

On my 1980 MGB, a service shop replaced the rubber pads inserted between 
the Front cross member and the body - they had deteriorated due to oil 
leakage and I was getting an annoying sound in the front end.  The new 
pads are made of polyurethane.

Recently I am starting to hear the familiar noise again.  I thought it 
might be prudent to re torque the 4 nuts used on the body - cross member 
connecting bolts - if I recall correctly they are torqued at about 56 
foot-pounds

The bolt is threaded at both ends with a non threaded portion in the 
middle.  So my question is this - when I retorque the nuts do I have to 
hold the nut on the opposite end or is the bolt keyed in some manner so 
that it will not rotate when the nut is turned?  This may be obvious to 
some but it is not to me.  Of course, i would know for sure if I were to 
dismantle the whole thing.

Thanks

Preston

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Tue Jul 17 09:24:21 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 08:24:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Central Coast British Car Show
Message-ID: <004b01c7c886$8d6e56e0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Anyone on the lists from Southern California planning to attend the Central
Coast British Car Show in Oxnard, CA this Sunday?  I am meeting at least one
other Healey owner to caravan up PCH from Santa Monica at about 7:00am.  If
you are interested, contact me.

Ron Fine
61 BN7
RonFineEsq at earthlink.net
310-871-3966 Cell

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Jul 17 11:48:18 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:48:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <469CCC65.4030106@gmail.com>
References: <469CCC65.4030106@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <469D00E2.2010503@ktc.com>

   You may want to rethink the cause of the noise.  I'm getting what I 
thought was that familiar clunking too.  But putting the car on stands 
under the body and then applying a floor jack to the front X-member has 
convinced me that the X-member isn't moving.  I'm still chasing the 
source of the noise.

   CR




Preston Smith wrote:
> Good day all!
> 
> On my 1980 MGB, a service shop replaced the rubber pads inserted between 
> the Front cross member and the body - they had deteriorated due to oil 
> leakage and I was getting an annoying sound in the front end.  The new 
> pads are made of polyurethane.
> 
> Recently I am starting to hear the familiar noise again.  I thought it 
> might be prudent to re torque the 4 nuts used on the body - cross member 
> connecting bolts - if I recall correctly they are torqued at about 56 
> foot-pounds

From mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU  Tue Jul 17 12:25:42 2007
From: mark.a.oneil at Dartmouth.EDU (Mark A. O'Neil)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:25:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake line lengths
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1184695201.20004.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1184695201.20004.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <428D6444-D825-41A0-B3F8-1D5793CDA73F@dartmouth.edu>

Hi,

If you have seen my question on other lists - sorry for the x-posting...

I would like to find a resource that specifies the lengths of the  
steel brake lines for a '79 Midget.

Any resources someone can point me to would be appreciated.

I want to eventually replace all the lines (due to poor bends and  
routing) but don't want to have to pull 'em all before hand for  
measuring.

For now the immediate need is the front left line - I spec it as   
10-12 inches? 8 may work but the bends would have to be perfect...

-m

From hdr at pobox.com  Tue Jul 17 12:57:26 2007
From: hdr at pobox.com (Henry D. Reynolds)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 13:57:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <469D00E2.2010503@ktc.com>
References: <469CCC65.4030106@gmail.com> <469D00E2.2010503@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <469D1116.8060201@pobox.com>

i had a similar problem and discovered that my front-end clunk came from
the bottom of the kingpin where the inner sleeve was just enough longer
than the cast part of the bottom of the kingpin where it connects to the
lower control arms to produce a "clunk" during take-off and while
stopping. grinding down the spacer fixed it. you can test it by jacking
up the car and seeing how much fore and aft play there is where the
kingpin connects to the lower A-arms.

Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>    You may want to rethink the cause of the noise.  I'm getting what I 
> thought was that familiar clunking too.  But putting the car on stands 
> under the body and then applying a floor jack to the front X-member has 
> convinced me that the X-member isn't moving.  I'm still chasing the 
> source of the noise.
>
>    CR
>
>
>
>
> Preston Smith wrote:
>   
>> Good day all!
>>
>> On my 1980 MGB, a service shop replaced the rubber pads inserted between 
>> the Front cross member and the body - they had deteriorated due to oil 
>> leakage and I was getting an annoying sound in the front end.  The new 
>> pads are made of polyurethane.
>>
>> Recently I am starting to hear the familiar noise again.  I thought it 
>> might be prudent to re torque the 4 nuts used on the body - cross member 
>> connecting bolts - if I recall correctly they are torqued at about 56 
>> foot-pounds
>>     


-- 

 Alle Menschen werden Br|der.

      Henry D. Reynolds - System Administrator 
    mail: hdr at pobox.com - phone: 512.448.3617 - cell: 512.699.8658
  PGP Key 407DCDE1 Fpr: 3F 5A FD F6 E5 40 55 9C  7F 0F 81 F5 0A E6 3B 7F

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 17 13:29:49 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:29:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <469D1116.8060201@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <C2C266BD.119BF%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That reminds me -- the lower arm inner pivot holes on my B were totally
egged out, and the shafts were hammered. This could be another source of
clunking (among other things).


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/17/07 11:57 AM, Henry D. Reynolds at hdr at pobox.com wrote:

> i had a similar problem and discovered that my front-end clunk came from
> the bottom of the kingpin where the inner sleeve was just enough longer
> than the cast part of the bottom of the kingpin where it connects to the
> lower control arms to produce a "clunk" during take-off and while
> stopping. grinding down the spacer fixed it. you can test it by jacking
> up the car and seeing how much fore and aft play there is where the
> kingpin connects to the lower A-arms.
> 
> Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>>    You may want to rethink the cause of the noise.  I'm getting what I
>> thought was that familiar clunking too.  But putting the car on stands
>> under the body and then applying a floor jack to the front X-member has
>> convinced me that the X-member isn't moving.  I'm still chasing the
>> source of the noise.
>> 
>>    CR
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Preston Smith wrote:
>>   
>>> Good day all!
>>> 
>>> On my 1980 MGB, a service shop replaced the rubber pads inserted between
>>> the Front cross member and the body - they had deteriorated due to oil
>>> leakage and I was getting an annoying sound in the front end.  The new
>>> pads are made of polyurethane.
>>> 
>>> Recently I am starting to hear the familiar noise again.  I thought it
>>> might be prudent to re torque the 4 nuts used on the body - cross member
>>> connecting bolts - if I recall correctly they are torqued at about 56
>>> foot-pounds

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 17 13:36:40 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:36:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Wire wheels
Message-ID: <C2C26858.119C0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

You may recall complaints from this quarter that shops were no longer
willing to work on wire wheels. Now I discover that this trend has extended
to bicycle wheels (!).

I just picked up a mountain bike cheap at a yard sale, wth one slightly
warped rim. Neither bike shop I took it to was willing to just lace on a new
rim -- they want to sell me a whole wheel (for more than I paid for the
bike, BTW). I'm tempted to order a rim and do it myself, if it weren't for
the fact I no longer have any bike tools. Good grief...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

[just venting...]

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Tue Jul 17 14:03:51 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 13:03:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB event
Message-ID: <s69cbe4d.047@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

I just got back from visiting the NAMGBR car event in Rohnert Park CA. 
What a pleasant surprise- I didn't know there were that many enthusiasts
left.  And the distances some of the people drove- from Oklahoma and
Indiana and other parts of the nation.  I met MG legend Norman Nock, who
has been selling and repairing British cars for decades.  I met a fellow
from Seattle who bought his '66 B new, and is still in love with it,
having restored it to its prime.  I commented that it's too bad we can't
do that with our wives!  There was a group of engine-converted Bs, one
of wihich was the '67 BRG GT w/215 Buick that never ceases to amaze me
as it looks better than the factory V8s (it's from the SF Bay Area). 
And- there was one factory B GT V8 RHD car there as well.  There was a
few other MGs- the nicest Magnette I've ever seen, several As, a Midget,
and a few T-series cars.  A lone Triumph, a TR6, was the only non-MG I
saw.

It was great fun to talk with the owners and see the cars, and the
weather was ideal.

Don Scott
Calistoga CA
'62 MGA
'73 MGB GT
91 Miata BRG 

From bilking at comcast.net  Tue Jul 17 15:26:02 2007
From: bilking at comcast.net (bill)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 17:26:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Wire wheels
References: <C2C26858.119C0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000901c7c8b9$21ca75d0$2e32a8c0@elastomersnet.net>

What's a spoke wrench run?  A buck two- fifty?  Come to Delaware and I'll 
let you use mine.  What other 'bike' tools do you need?  Besides it's easy 
with those squiggly spokes.  Now weaving those 3/16" stainless steel spokes 
is a bit more challening.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 3:36 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Wire wheels


> You may recall complaints from this quarter that shops were no longer
> willing to work on wire wheels. Now I discover that this trend has 
> extended
> to bicycle wheels (!).
>
> I just picked up a mountain bike cheap at a yard sale, wth one slightly
> warped rim. Neither bike shop I took it to was willing to just lace on a 
> new
> rim -- they want to sell me a whole wheel (for more than I paid for the
> bike, BTW). I'm tempted to order a rim and do it myself, if it weren't for
> the fact I no longer have any bike tools. Good grief...
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
> [just venting...]
> _______________________________________________

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 17 15:45:57 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:45:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Wire wheels [OT]
In-Reply-To: <000901c7c8b9$21ca75d0$2e32a8c0@elastomersnet.net>
Message-ID: <C2C286A5.119DD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, yeah, it wasn't just the spoke wrench. I didn't have a wrench thin
enough for the hub, either. But my main problem is ignorance -- I can't even
figure out what size the rim is. Bike wheel sizes seem to be completely
chaotic and unregulated. The tire is marked 26 x 2.00, but the rim diameter
is more like 22.5", and the rim width is 1-3/8" measured on the outside; so,
what size rim do I order?


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/17/07 2:26 PM, bill at bilking at comcast.net wrote:

> What's a spoke wrench run?  A buck two- fifty?  Come to Delaware and I'll
> let you use mine.  What other 'bike' tools do you need?  Besides it's easy
> with those squiggly spokes.  Now weaving those 3/16" stainless steel spokes
> is a bit more challening.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 3:36 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Wire wheels
> 
> 
>> You may recall complaints from this quarter that shops were no longer
>> willing to work on wire wheels. Now I discover that this trend has
>> extended
>> to bicycle wheels (!).
>> 
>> I just picked up a mountain bike cheap at a yard sale, wth one slightly
>> warped rim. Neither bike shop I took it to was willing to just lace on a
>> new
>> rim -- they want to sell me a whole wheel (for more than I paid for the
>> bike, BTW). I'm tempted to order a rim and do it myself, if it weren't for
>> the fact I no longer have any bike tools. Good grief...
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> [just venting...]
>> _______________________________________________

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Jul 17 19:11:14 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 21:11:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
Message-ID: <20070717.211838.1504.4.MGBOB@juno.com>

Preston,
   The things we think of as  'bolts' were more accurately described by a
machinist friend as 'studs with tapered seats'.   As such, the taper
pulls into tapered holes and you won't need a second wrench on the other
end.
    My recollection is that they are 7/16", so torque to whatever one
uses for that size.  56-60 ft lbs should be OK unless someone can provide
more exact value.  BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and washers from
the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....
Bob
 
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:04:21 -0300 Preston Smith <prbasmith at gmail.com>
writes:
> Good day all!
> 
> On my 1980 MGB, a service shop replaced the rubber pads inserted 

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Tue Jul 17 20:17:15 2007
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 19:17:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel gauge sending unit
Message-ID: <003801c7c8e1$cb9f4cc0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>

Can anyone tell me the Ohm range of the MGB fuel sending unit?
Tks,
Danny V,
'58 MGB
'76 MGB V6 project

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Tue Jul 17 21:03:45 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:03:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
References: <20070717.211838.1504.4.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <010101c7c8e8$41625640$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and washers from
the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>

You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I want on any automobile is Grade
2 fasteners.

N    O    T    !!!

Suicide comes to mind!!

ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all LBCs!!!

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Tue Jul 17 21:12:17 2007
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:12:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] TD armrest plans
Message-ID: <32900282.48191184728337311.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web15-z02>

Listers, 
Anyone remember seeing plans for building an armrest for between the seats on an MG-TD. It incorporated the fly-off handbrake. Any info appreciated.
TIA,
Dave Houser

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Jul 18 01:42:17 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 08:42:17 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel gauge sending unit
References: <003801c7c8e1$cb9f4cc0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <00c901c7c910$a5111b90$0200a8c0@Three>

They vary wildly (if my experience with replacements is anything to go by), 
but are around 30 ohms for F and 300 for E.  The gauge has a wide 
calibration range for both E and F.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Can anyone tell me the Ohm range of the MGB fuel sending unit?

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 18 16:56:16 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 15:56:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <010101c7c8e8$41625640$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <C2C3E8A0.11A3D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Good point ...not to mention the idea of "polishing up" fasteners on the
underside of a B (an environment generally reminiscent of the La Brea tar
pits).

Maybe if you kept it parked on a mirrored floor in your living room...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires (not polished)


on 7/17/07 8:03 PM, WJHS1960 at WJHS1960 at comcast.net wrote:

> <<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and washers from
> the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>
> 
> You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I want on any automobile is Grade
> 2 fasteners.
> 
> N    O    T    !!!
> 
> Suicide comes to mind!!
> 
> ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all LBCs!!!
> _______________________________________________

From montejane at gmail.com  Wed Jul 18 17:34:20 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 16:34:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] TD armrest plans
In-Reply-To: <32900282.48191184728337311.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web15-z02>
References: <32900282.48191184728337311.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web15-z02>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0707181634g3f56b210xd275f3366a03fc3@mail.gmail.com>

No, but I made and oak and leather armrest/storage bin (also with a built in
cell phone holder beneath the ashtray) between the seats and under the
radio in our 67B. I also made an oak two-cup holder for our 79B that fits
beneath the radio on the console. Both were pretty easy and very functional.
So, I'm sure you can design and  build one yourself.
Monte


On 7/17/07, mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Anyone remember seeing plans for building an armrest for between the seats
> on an MG-TD. It incorporated the fly-off handbrake. Any info appreciated.
> TIA,
> Dave Houser
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jul 19 06:17:57 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 08:17:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
Message-ID: <20070719.091531.3016.5.MGBOB@juno.com>

 No particular death wish.  The ones I used were suggested by a 30 year
assembly tech at Pratt & Whitney, where they know a thing or two about
metallurgy.
Bob
 
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:03:45 -0500 "WJHS1960" <WJHS1960 at comcast.net>
writes:
> <<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and washers from
> the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>
> 
> You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I want on any automobile 
> is Grade
> 2 fasteners.
> 
> N    O    T    !!!
> 
> Suicide comes to mind!!
> 
> ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all LBCs!!!

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jul 19 07:53:18 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:53:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
Message-ID: <20070719.095318.3016.18.MGBOB@juno.com>

   Further to the discussion of strength of stainless nuts,  from
Machinery Handbook no.26
   "Three grades of hex and square nuts designated grades 2, 5 and 8 are
specified by the SAE J995 standard covering nuts in the 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch
diameter range.   Grades 2,5 and 8 nuts correspond roughly to the SAE
specified bolts of the same grade."
"Grade 2 nuts are not required to be marked, however, all Grades 5 and 8
nuts must be marked in one of three ways: Grade 5 may be marked with a
dot on the face of the nut and a radial or circumferential mark at 120 
degrees counterclockwise from the dot on the face of the nut; or a notch
at each of the six corners of the nut.  Grade 8 nuts may be identified by
a dot on the face of the nut with a radial or circumferential mark at 60
degrees counterclockwise from the dot; or a dot at one corner of the nut
and a radial line clockwise from the nut, or two notches at each of the
six corners of the nut."
   I just went through a couple of boxes of SS nuts that I have in the
garage; all are marked grade 5. 
Bob



 
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 08:17:57 -0400 Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> writes:
>  No particular death wish.  The ones I used were suggested by a 30 
> year assembly tech at Pratt & Whitney, where they know a thing or two 
> about metallurgy.
> Bob
>  
> On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:03:45 -0500 "WJHS1960" 
> <WJHS1960 at comcast.net>
> writes:
> > <<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and washers from
> > the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>
> > 
> > You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I want on any 
> automobile is Grade 2 fasteners.
> > 
> > N    O    T    !!!
> > 
> > Suicide comes to mind!!
> > 
> > ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all LBCs!!!

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 19 07:58:07 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 06:58:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <20070719.095318.3016.18.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <103721.48298.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Now THIS is useful information!  Thank you.  Informed
mechanics can make informed decisions!

rick

--- Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

>    Further to the discussion of strength of
> stainless nuts,  from
> Machinery Handbook no.26
>    "Three grades of hex and square nuts designated
> grades 2, 5 and 8 are
> specified by the SAE J995 standard covering nuts in
> the 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch
> diameter range.   Grades 2,5 and 8 nuts correspond
> roughly to the SAE
> specified bolts of the same grade."
> "Grade 2 nuts are not required to be marked,
> however, all Grades 5 and 8
> nuts must be marked in one of three ways: Grade 5
> may be marked with a
> dot on the face of the nut and a radial or
> circumferential mark at 120 
> degrees counterclockwise from the dot on the face of
> the nut; or a notch
> at each of the six corners of the nut.  Grade 8 nuts
> may be identified by
> a dot on the face of the nut with a radial or
> circumferential mark at 60
> degrees counterclockwise from the dot; or a dot at
> one corner of the nut
> and a radial line clockwise from the nut, or two
> notches at each of the
> six corners of the nut."
>    I just went through a couple of boxes of SS nuts
> that I have in the
> garage; all are marked grade 5. 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
>  
> On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 08:17:57 -0400 Bob Howard
> <mgbob at juno.com> writes:
> >  No particular death wish.  The ones I used were
> suggested by a 30 
> > year assembly tech at Pratt & Whitney, where they
> know a thing or two 
> > about metallurgy.
> > Bob
> >  
> > On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:03:45 -0500 "WJHS1960" 
> > <WJHS1960 at comcast.net>
> > writes:
> > > <<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and
> washers from
> > > the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>
> > > 
> > > You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I
> want on any 
> > automobile is Grade 2 fasteners.
> > > 
> > > N    O    T    !!!
> > > 
> > > Suicide comes to mind!!
> > > 
> > > ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all
> LBCs!!!
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 19 07:58:07 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 06:58:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <20070719.095318.3016.18.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <103721.48298.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Now THIS is useful information!  Thank you.  Informed
mechanics can make informed decisions!

rick

--- Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

>    Further to the discussion of strength of
> stainless nuts,  from
> Machinery Handbook no.26
>    "Three grades of hex and square nuts designated
> grades 2, 5 and 8 are
> specified by the SAE J995 standard covering nuts in
> the 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch
> diameter range.   Grades 2,5 and 8 nuts correspond
> roughly to the SAE
> specified bolts of the same grade."
> "Grade 2 nuts are not required to be marked,
> however, all Grades 5 and 8
> nuts must be marked in one of three ways: Grade 5
> may be marked with a
> dot on the face of the nut and a radial or
> circumferential mark at 120 
> degrees counterclockwise from the dot on the face of
> the nut; or a notch
> at each of the six corners of the nut.  Grade 8 nuts
> may be identified by
> a dot on the face of the nut with a radial or
> circumferential mark at 60
> degrees counterclockwise from the dot; or a dot at
> one corner of the nut
> and a radial line clockwise from the nut, or two
> notches at each of the
> six corners of the nut."
>    I just went through a couple of boxes of SS nuts
> that I have in the
> garage; all are marked grade 5. 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
>  
> On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 08:17:57 -0400 Bob Howard
> <mgbob at juno.com> writes:
> >  No particular death wish.  The ones I used were
> suggested by a 30 
> > year assembly tech at Pratt & Whitney, where they
> know a thing or two 
> > about metallurgy.
> > Bob
> >  
> > On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:03:45 -0500 "WJHS1960" 
> > <WJHS1960 at comcast.net>
> > writes:
> > > <<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and
> washers from
> > > the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>
> > > 
> > > You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I
> want on any 
> > automobile is Grade 2 fasteners.
> > > 
> > > N    O    T    !!!
> > > 
> > > Suicide comes to mind!!
> > > 
> > > ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all
> LBCs!!!
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Jul 19 08:42:05 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:42:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <469D1116.8060201@pobox.com>
References: <469CCC65.4030106@gmail.com> <469D00E2.2010503@ktc.com>
	<469D1116.8060201@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <469F783D.5010001@ktc.com>

   I did pursue the noise a bit more but didn't mention it.  With the 
car on stands located under the body I jacked various points on the 
suspension.  I found some vertical play in the king pin bushings.  Damn! 
  Big job....

   CR


Henry D. Reynolds wrote:
> i had a similar problem and discovered that my front-end clunk came from
> the bottom of the kingpin where the inner sleeve was just enough longer
> than the cast part of the bottom of the kingpin where it connects to the
> lower control arms to produce a "clunk" during take-off and while
> stopping. grinding down the spacer fixed it. you can test it by jacking
> up the car and seeing how much fore and aft play there is where the
> kingpin connects to the lower A-arms.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Jul 19 13:27:43 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:27:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Central Coast British Car Show
In-Reply-To: <004b01c7c886$8d6e56e0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C70EC89@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Ron:

I'm planning to be out there. No idea what I'm going to drive.

Coming in from Ojai, so wrong direction to convoy.




Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 8:24 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Central Coast British Car Show
>
> Anyone on the lists from Southern California planning to attend the
> Central
> Coast British Car Show in Oxnard, CA this Sunday?  I am meeting at
least
> one
> other Healey owner to caravan up PCH from Santa Monica at about
7:00am.
> If
> you are interested, contact me.
>
> Ron Fine
> 61 BN7
> RonFineEsq at earthlink.net
> 310-871-3966 Cell

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Thu Jul 19 16:26:46 2007
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 18:26:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <C2C3E8A0.11A3D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C2C3E8A0.11A3D%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <7A028EEF-95EE-43C3-8830-BFB5F8022985@trebelhorn.com>

While I'm not going to argue that weaker fasteners are necessarily  
better than a nice Grade 5, the load on these isn't ever going to be  
all that high.  I'll explain why I think that, and you can tell me if  
it sounds crazy.

The way I see it, those nuts carry a vertical load -- they hold the  
crossmember on when the car is jacked up, or if you pick the car up  
and hold it upside down by the crossmember, they hold the car up.   
Now, that second scenario is unlikely, so we're looking at other ways  
in which a vertical load is carried by the nuts and washers.

That boils down to loads put on the suspension by an anti-roll bar,  
or momentary loads that involve similar issues -- a pothole, say, or  
braking loads that would pull the crossmember rearwards -- some of  
this turns into a vertical load, pulling the crossmember down.

In both of these scenarios, though, the load is leveraged against the  
nuts, and the weak point in the system isn't the hardware, but the  
rubber mounting pads.  If you have an anti-roll bar that puts enough  
vertical load on the crossmember to break even a grade 2 fastener of  
that size, you would long ago have crushed the rubber pad, and  
probably broken some other suspension bits, too.  If you hit a  
pothole hard enough to pop those fasteners, you would also destroy  
the rubber pads first; at any rate, your suspension would be in bad  
shape.

I was in an accident a few years ago that pushed the front wheel back  
a tiny bit -- and the only suspension bit destroyed was the rubber  
pad on the hit side; when it came back from the bodyshop, the car  
drove like hell until that got replaced.

Yes, a really weak fastener in that application might have broken.   
But it would have been the difference between a broken suspension in  
a badly broken car and a badly broken suspension in a badly broken car.

So that's my story -- that they're not loaded in such a way that you  
would ever put enough of a load on them to break the nuts without  
breaking lots of other things first.

Crazy or no?
Matt


>
> on 7/17/07 8:03 PM, WJHS1960 at WJHS1960 at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> <<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and washers from
>> the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>
>>
>> You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I want on any  
>> automobile is Grade
>> 2 fasteners.
>>
>> N    O    T    !!!
>>
>> Suicide comes to mind!!
>>
>> ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all LBCs!!!
>> _______________________________________________

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 19 16:57:51 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 15:57:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
In-Reply-To: <7A028EEF-95EE-43C3-8830-BFB5F8022985@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <C2C53A7F.11ABA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Crazy, maybe...

The major load on those bolts is not compression, or stretch, as you infer
-- it is shear, and it occurs anytime the car changes direction, or brakes.
One way to look at it is that the tightness of the nuts is protecting the
bolts (or studs) from the shear forces (transferring them to the frame of
the vehicle). The nuts, as usual, are not directly subjected to the major
force, but their integrity is critical to the integrity of the assembly
(also as usual).

A parallel situation might be lug nuts (the studs being loaded chiefly in
shear). Of course, you don't think of them as being "graded" quality (are
they?), but I suppose they are to some extent redundant (multiple per
wheel).


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/19/07 3:26 PM, Matt Trebelhorn at matt.lists at trebelhorn.com wrote:

> While I'm not going to argue that weaker fasteners are necessarily
> better than a nice Grade 5, the load on these isn't ever going to be
> all that high.  I'll explain why I think that, and you can tell me if
> it sounds crazy.
> 
> The way I see it, those nuts carry a vertical load -- they hold the
> crossmember on when the car is jacked up, or if you pick the car up
> and hold it upside down by the crossmember, they hold the car up.
> Now, that second scenario is unlikely, so we're looking at other ways
> in which a vertical load is carried by the nuts and washers.
> 
> That boils down to loads put on the suspension by an anti-roll bar,
> or momentary loads that involve similar issues -- a pothole, say, or
> braking loads that would pull the crossmember rearwards -- some of
> this turns into a vertical load, pulling the crossmember down.
> 
> In both of these scenarios, though, the load is leveraged against the
> nuts, and the weak point in the system isn't the hardware, but the
> rubber mounting pads.  If you have an anti-roll bar that puts enough
> vertical load on the crossmember to break even a grade 2 fastener of
> that size, you would long ago have crushed the rubber pad, and
> probably broken some other suspension bits, too.  If you hit a
> pothole hard enough to pop those fasteners, you would also destroy
> the rubber pads first; at any rate, your suspension would be in bad
> shape.
> 
> I was in an accident a few years ago that pushed the front wheel back
> a tiny bit -- and the only suspension bit destroyed was the rubber
> pad on the hit side; when it came back from the bodyshop, the car
> drove like hell until that got replaced.
> 
> Yes, a really weak fastener in that application might have broken.
> But it would have been the difference between a broken suspension in
> a badly broken car and a badly broken suspension in a badly broken car.
> 
> So that's my story -- that they're not loaded in such a way that you
> would ever put enough of a load on them to break the nuts without
> breaking lots of other things first.
> 
> Crazy or no?
> Matt
> 
> 
>> 
>> on 7/17/07 8:03 PM, WJHS1960 at WJHS1960 at comcast.net wrote:
>> 
>>> <<BTW,  if you get stainless locknuts and washers from
>>> the hardware store, they polish up nicely.....>>
>>> 
>>> You must have a Death Wish, Bob.  Just what I want on any
>>> automobile is Grade
>>> 2 fasteners.
>>> 
>>> N    O    T    !!!
>>> 
>>> Suicide comes to mind!!
>>> 
>>> ONLY Grade 5 fasteners are used on any/all LBCs!!!
>>> _______________________________________________

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 19 20:35:57 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 21:35:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 80 MGB - Cross member to Body bolt
References: <C2C53A7F.11ABA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <012a01c7ca76$b4190a00$6501a8c0@actualshop>

EXCELLENT, Max!!!

<<Of course, you don't think of them as being "graded" quality (are they?),>>

According to Chevy they not only ARE but are Grade 5 (like MOST automotive
stuff is/was!! - and ESPECIALLY our cars!!).

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Fri Jul 20 09:41:29 2007
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 11:41:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] NGK plug heat ranges
Message-ID: <46A0D7A9.30505@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
I want to go with a cooler plug in my 67BGT. Using the NGK BP6ES now and 
want to experiment with possible lower under hood temps(still, I know).
What's the next cooler plug from NGK? shouldn't it be a "7" number?
Cheers,
Dave Houser
(soon to be in Vancouver, BC with the MGA GT folk)

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Jul 20 10:35:31 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 12:35:31 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] NGK plug heat ranges
Message-ID: <c3a.172b61df.33d23e53@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/20/2007 8:41:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com writes:

I want  to go with a cooler plug in my 67BGT. Using the NGK BP6ES now and 
want to  experiment with possible lower under hood temps(still, I know).
What's the  next cooler plug from NGK? shouldn't it be a "7"  number?



 
____________________________________


Plug heat ranges aren't going to alter under hood temperatures and should  be 
predicated on what the engine needs to run, not anything else.
 
6 series NGKs are the correct range and you shouldn't vary from that unless  
you modify the engine or use it in competition and find that the 6's are not  
working for you.
 
If it ain't broke, don't mess with it!
 
See you at Whistler (I'll be the guy with the weird low red car).
 
Bill
(who uses BP6ES in all street engines - and B9EV on the race  engines)

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 20 18:51:27 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:51:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Caliper installed
Message-ID: <722080.79727.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
   This afternoon I completed the rebuild of the left
front caliper.  I have to admit, everything went
together beautifully BUT the dust shield.  That is one
REALLY difficult seal to install!  Still, I got both
sides in.  From there on, the reinstallation was cake.
 New hose, pads, etc.  Here's how it looks now:
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0724.JPG .  The color
didn't turn out quite as I intended.  It was supposed
to be a faux-yellow cad.  Still, the look isn't too
distasteful.

regards,

rick

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Jul 20 09:57:52 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 16:57:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] NGK plug heat ranges
References: <46A0D7A9.30505@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001201c7cb79$47608e20$0200a8c0@Three>

Are you trying to lower your under hood temps?  Cope with lower under hood 
temps?  Changing the plug temp won't alter either of those, or be affected 
by them.  It simply refers to how hot the plug tip is allowed to get inside 
the cylinder i.e. at combustion temps.  The longer the nose the slower the 
heat conduction into the head casting and the hotter the tip gets, and 
conversely.  If plug fouling is a problem then one would go with a hotter 
plug, whereas if tip burning is the problem one would go with a cooler. 
Nowt to do with under hood temps.  According to 
http://www.akamoto.co.uk/resource-spark-plugs.htm 7 *is* colder than 6, and 
5 hotter.  Unless you have a modified engine plug burning (or fouling) which 
might lead you to think you need a different temperature of plug will almost 
certainly be due to some other problem in ignition or carburetion, not plug 
temperature per se.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> I want to go with a cooler plug in my 67BGT. Using the NGK BP6ES now and
> want to experiment with possible lower under hood temps(still, I know).

From robe3099 at bellsouth.net  Sat Jul 21 08:19:45 2007
From: robe3099 at bellsouth.net (John Roberts)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 09:19:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Caliper installed
In-Reply-To: <722080.79727.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20070721141920.TQOZ9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@wareagle>

Rick,

How did you install the metal ring seal around the piston?

Mine keep bending and warping!!

Thanks!

JR
Birmingham, AL


I have to admit, everything went
together beautifully BUT the dust shield.  That is one
REALLY difficult seal to install!  Still, I got both
sides in.  From there on, the reinstallation was cake.
 
regards,

rick

From montejane at gmail.com  Sat Jul 21 09:30:02 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 08:30:02 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Caliper installed
In-Reply-To: <20070721141920.TQOZ9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@wareagle>
References: <722080.79727.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20070721141920.TQOZ9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@wareagle>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0707210830q38184814md90f6cd1988ef53f@mail.gmail.com>

They are a bitch. I remember fighting them too, but can't remember how I
finally got them on. Sorry.
Monte


On 7/21/07, John Roberts <robe3099 at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> How did you install the metal ring seal around the piston?
>
> Mine keep bending and warping!!
>
> Thanks!
>
> JR
> Birmingham, AL
>
>
> I have to admit, everything went
> together beautifully BUT the dust shield.  That is one
> REALLY difficult seal to install!  Still, I got both
> sides in.  From there on, the reinstallation was cake.
>
> regards,
>
> rick
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From palte at gmx.net  Sat Jul 21 09:53:34 2007
From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:53:34 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Caliper installed
In-Reply-To: <722080.79727.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <722080.79727.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20070721155334.28700@gmx.net>

-------- Original-Nachricht --------
Datum: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:51:27 -0700 (PDT)
Von: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
An: MGS <mgs at autox.team.net>
Betreff: [Mgs] Caliper installed

> Hello Friends,
>    This afternoon I completed the rebuild of the left
> front caliper.  I have to admit, everything went
> together beautifully BUT the dust shield.  That is one
> REALLY difficult seal to install!  Still, I got both
> sides in.  From there on, the reinstallation was cake.
>  New hose, pads, etc.  Here's how it looks now:
> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0724.JPG .  The color
> didn't turn out quite as I intended.  It was supposed
> to be a faux-yellow cad.  Still, the look isn't too
> distasteful.
> 
> regards,
> 
> rick

Hi Rick, 

The trick is that you have to make a special tool on a lathe,
one part having a diameter just smaller than the piston so that it centers well in the bore for guidance, and further on an OD somewhat larger so that you can press the seal nicely and flat into its seat.

I designed and made one last year out of aluminium that worked just fine. 
I don't have the part at hand or the dimensions here but if you want to, I can make some pics and give you the dimensions.

(Actually this was not for my MGB but rather for my 1972 Sunbeam Sceptre.
The brakes, I've been told, are the same as those on the MGB.
I also needed new pistons and bought them in Iran, where they made the same car up till 2005 named Peykan. My job happened to bring me there in 2006). 

Bert
Holland
-- 
Ist Ihr Browser Vista-kompatibel? Jetzt die neuesten 
Browser-Versionen downloaden: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/browser

From MGMagnette at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 09:55:56 2007
From: MGMagnette at aol.com (MGMagnette at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 11:55:56 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
Message-ID: <cea.14d01188.33d3868c@aol.com>

Last year I rebuilt everything on the rear axle...  brakes  included.   So 
this spring it has a brake problem.  When you  step on the brake, the passenger 
side rear brake grabs hold way too hard and  leaves a patch of rubber.  I 
tried adjusting the thing so the other side  would grab sooner, but no luck.  It 
appears both sides of the brakes are  working at the same time.   Any 
suggestions?  As I said,  everything is new.  
 
-John



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 10:22:17 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 12:22:17 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
Message-ID: <cef.1552b150.33d38cb9@aol.com>

In a message dated 21/07/2007 8:57:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
MGMagnette at aol.com writes:

When  you  step on the brake, the passenger 
side rear brake grabs hold way  too hard and  leaves a patch of rubber.  I 
tried adjusting the  thing so the other side  would grab sooner, but no luck. 
 It  
appears both sides of the brakes are  working at the same  time.   Any 
suggestions?  


  
____________________________________


Yes - pull the drum off and see if you have a leaking seal - either brake  
fluid or diff oil on the linings will give that effect.
 
Bill S.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Jul 21 10:24:05 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 09:24:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <cea.14d01188.33d3868c@aol.com>
References: <cea.14d01188.33d3868c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10707210924k50f95f68u8cb90e60826953bc@mail.gmail.com>

A leaking wheel cylinder or rear axle seal jumps to mind, as does the brake
shoes incorrectly installed on the passenger side.
If it were my car I would take the passenger's side drum off to check for
brake fluid or rear axle fluid.  If that is OK, then remove the driver's
side and compare how the two sides are installed.  Are the springs and shoes
oriented the same and routed the same on both sides?
Good luck
Rick

On 7/21/07, MGMagnette at aol.com <MGMagnette at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Last year I rebuilt everything on the rear axle...  brakes  included.   So
> this spring it has a brake problem.  When you  step on the brake, the
> passenger
> side rear brake grabs hold way too hard and  leaves a patch of rubber.  I
> tried adjusting the thing so the other side  would grab sooner, but no
> luck.  It
> appears both sides of the brakes are  working at the same time.   Any
> suggestions?  As I said,  everything is new.
>
> -John
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL
> at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From blair at ifd.mv.com  Sat Jul 21 10:49:53 2007
From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 12:49:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Plus sized wheels for B
References: <20070721141920.TQOZ9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@wareagle>
Message-ID: <017001c7cbb9$0de3f520$84637dc7@Terrafirma>

I am polling the list to see what people are using for 15" wheels. I am 
about to finish a restoration of a 78 B. The wheels are in such rough shape, 
I would rather just put some aluminum wheels on. I did some measuring and I 
am fairly confident I can go 1" wider, as long as the 1" goes inboard... So 
ideally I am looking for 15 X 6 wheels, the local rim place says no problem 
except for the bolt circle... 4X110mm? not a popular size, but I seem to 
remember people fitting datsun 240Z wheels and saab 900 wheels. From the 
cross reference book I saw, the 240Z wheels are 114mm BC.

Any hints?

Blair 

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 11:11:06 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 13:11:06 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Plus sized wheels for B
Message-ID: <c28.187af6ad.33d3982a@aol.com>

In a message dated 21/07/2007 10:03:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
blair at ifd.mv.com writes:

I am  polling the list to see what people are using for 15" wheels. I am 
about  to finish a restoration of a 78 B. The wheels are in such rough shape, 
I  would rather just put some aluminum wheels on. I did some measuring and I  
am fairly confident I can go 1" wider, as long as the 1" goes inboard...  So 
ideally I am looking for 15 X 6 wheels, the local rim place says no  problem 
except for the bolt circle... 4X110mm?


  
____________________________________


The 4 x 4.5" bolt circle is not that uncommon. TR6 and Saab will  work.
 
Bill

From MGMagnette at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 13:24:47 2007
From: MGMagnette at aol.com (MGMagnette at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 15:24:47 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
Message-ID: <bea.15158cd7.33d3b77f@aol.com>

Sure enough it was the shoes!  Luckily shoes are an on the shelf item  at the 
local auto parts store.    So I posted the message at  noon, got the parts, 
took a detour to the town dump, and changed out the shoes  and its only 3:30.  
There is even time to wash it!  
 
Thanks folks,
 
John



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 21 14:03:39 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 13:03:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <bea.15158cd7.33d3b77f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <143202.15425.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This list is BRILLIANT, isn'tit?!

rick
--- MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:

> Sure enough it was the shoes!  Luckily shoes are an
> on the shelf item  at the 
> local auto parts store.    So I posted the message
> at  noon, got the parts, 
> took a detour to the town dump, and changed out the
> shoes  and its only 3:30.  
> There is even time to wash it!  
>  
> Thanks folks,
>  
> John
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peek of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 21 14:31:58 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 15:31:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
References: <bea.15158cd7.33d3b77f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <022301c7cbd6$326f8e00$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<There is even time to wash it!  >>

Blasphemy, I say!!!

SHE is NOT an IT, JR!!

Oh the SHAME of it all !!!

Your shoe problem PROVES that SHE is screaming for a REAL NAME!!!!!

<G>

From battanhr at comcast.net  Sat Jul 21 14:45:26 2007
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 13:45:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] NGK plug heat ranges
In-Reply-To: <c3a.172b61df.33d23e53@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001d01c7cbd8$11821260$6600a8c0@XPS410>

Hijack - Which 'weird low red car? Is that the Jamaican? I'll be looking for
it at Whistler.

Howard Battan
Anacortes, WA

-----Original Message-----

See you at Whistler (I'll be the guy with the weird low red car).
 
Bill
(who uses BP6ES in all street engines - and B9EV on the race  engines)
_______________________________________________

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 15:32:59 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:32:59 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] NGK plug heat ranges
Message-ID: <c53.1a9b0986.33d3d58b@aol.com>

In a message dated 21/07/2007 1:45:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
battanhr at comcast.net writes:

Hijack -  Which 'weird low red car? Is that the Jamaican? I'll be looking for
it at  Whistler.



 
____________________________________


Indeed it is the Jamaican.
 
All things going as planned, it and the 62 coupe should be there  Monday.
 
Bill

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sat Jul 21 15:45:05 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 16:45:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 64 Brake Master
Message-ID: <46A27E61.2050003@gmail.com>

My Victor is MGB-based. The Brake master cylinder is the one with the 
big round plastic tub that leans forward. I took the spare to a brake 
shop months ago to have it redone. Yesterday they called and said they 
didn't know how to take it apart and they're sending it back. I'm a 
pretty good mechanic, especially on British cars, but I have never had 
one of these apart before. Is there some sort of secret to disassembly 
on these? I have a manual somewhere, but it will take some looking to 
find it. Usually the only thing I use a manual for is torque values, 
since I'm pretty good at puzzles, but thought I should ask here before 
starting to work on it.

Also, if you know of a website with instructions and/or illustrations, please let me know.

-The Roxter
--

From MGMagnette at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 16:04:37 2007
From: MGMagnette at aol.com (MGMagnette at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:04:37 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
Message-ID: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>

<<There is even time to wash it!  >>
>>Blasphemy,  I say!!!
>>SHE is NOT an IT, JR!!
>>Oh the SHAME of it all  !!!
>>Your shoe problem PROVES that SHE is screaming for a REAL  NAME!!!!!
 
I've never named a car!   We've had this MGB for 16 years... no  name.  I've 
had the '59 Magnette for 12 years... no name.  Surely  there are others like 
me??
 
-John
 
 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 21 16:24:40 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 15:24:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <971293.18125.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've owned many tens of cars in my tender 56 years and
I have NEVER named a car.  That's not to say that I
haven't called many of them blasphemous names!

rick
--- MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:

> <<There is even time to wash it!  >>
> >>Blasphemy,  I say!!!
> >>SHE is NOT an IT, JR!!
> >>Oh the SHAME of it all  !!!
> >>Your shoe problem PROVES that SHE is screaming for
> a REAL  NAME!!!!!
>  
> I've never named a car!   We've had this MGB for 16
> years... no  name.  I've 
> had the '59 Magnette for 12 years... no name. 
> Surely  there are others like 
> me??
>  
> -John
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peek of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From smarc at smarc.net  Sat Jul 21 16:24:26 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:24:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>
References: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46A2879A.1000203@smarc.net>

   The  only cars I've ever named were simply "F**king piece of s**t" and
   disposed of unceremoniously!
Marc

   MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:

<<There is even time to wash it!  >>

Blasphemy,  I say!!!
SHE is NOT an IT, JR!!
Oh the SHAME of it all  !!!
Your shoe problem PROVES that SHE is screaming for a REAL  NAME!!!!!

I've never named a car!   We've had this MGB for 16 years... no  name.  I've
had the '59 Magnette for 12 years... no name.  Surely  there are others like
me??

-John

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 17:13:23 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:13:23 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
Message-ID: <d03.15189a4e.33d3ed13@aol.com>

In a message dated 21/07/2007 4:10:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
MGMagnette at aol.com writes:

I've  never named a car!   We've had this MGB for 16 years... no   name.  
I've 
had the '59 Magnette for 12 years... no name.   Surely  there are others like 
me??



 
____________________________________


Frankly I think there is a screw loose with people that have to pretend  that 
inanimate objects have human qualities.  Pets, well OK (hardly  inanimate), 
but pieces of metal - give me a break (brake?)
 
Bill

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 21 18:16:53 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:16:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <778874.46325.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:


> I've never named a car!   We've had this MGB for 16 years... no 
> name. 

My MGA has a name: The MG.  It was named in honor of my first
MG, The MG.  I do not anthropomorphize The MG.  It hates it
when I do that.

BTW, there is a great article in the current issue of
_Automobile_ magazine by Jamie Kitman about the bizarre
practice of naming cars.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC

From battanhr at comcast.net  Sat Jul 21 18:36:20 2007
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 17:36:20 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <778874.46325.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004001c7cbf8$5335c830$6600a8c0@XPS410>

Well, I guess my MGs have names. The MGA was always "the A", and now that I
have others, they are "the B" and "the TF". If I say "the MG", it's not
clear which one I mean. My motorcycle, however, does have a real name. It's
painted to resemble "Pappy" Boyington's Corsair, so it got to be called
"Lulubelle"

 

Howard Battan

Anacortes, WA

 

 

-----Original Message-----



--- MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:

 

 

> I've never named a car!   We've had this MGB for 16 years... no 

> name. 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 21 19:50:24 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:50:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <004001c7cbf8$5335c830$6600a8c0@XPS410>
Message-ID: <446505.69395.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Okay, I have to own-up a little.  Here are the names
of my cars - my names and Nancy's.

'03 Land Rover
   Rick: the truck, the Rover, your car
   Nancy: the truck, my car

'98 Mercedes SL500
   Rick: my car, the SL, the Mercedes
   Nancy: your car

'96 BMW 740iL
   Rick: Allen's car, the 740, the white car
   Nancy: Allen's car

'79 Ferrari 308GTB
   Rick: the Ferrari, the 308
   Nancy: The Ferrari

'70 MGB
   Rick: the B, the MGB
   Nancy: the MG

Sorry, no romance there.  No gender.  No cute.  Just
cars.

rick

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sat Jul 21 20:30:27 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:30:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <446505.69395.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <004001c7cbf8$5335c830$6600a8c0@XPS410>
	<446505.69395.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901c7cc08$45faaf90$d1f00eb0$@com>

All my racecars have names...

The Bishop
Redrum
RedArse
RedRat Bastard (now DeadRat Bastard)
FrankenSprite
Walter
Etc.
www.thicko.com

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick
Lindsay
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 8:50 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)

Okay, I have to own-up a little.  Here are the names
of my cars - my names and Nancy's.

'03 Land Rover
   Rick: the truck, the Rover, your car
   Nancy: the truck, my car

'98 Mercedes SL500
   Rick: my car, the SL, the Mercedes
   Nancy: your car

'96 BMW 740iL
   Rick: Allen's car, the 740, the white car
   Nancy: Allen's car

'79 Ferrari 308GTB
   Rick: the Ferrari, the 308
   Nancy: The Ferrari

'70 MGB
   Rick: the B, the MGB
   Nancy: the MG

Sorry, no romance there.  No gender.  No cute.  Just
cars.

rick

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Jul 21 20:35:36 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:35:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <778874.46325.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <778874.46325.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C51BFB67-919C-40A7-839C-CDC299AF5092@panix.com>

On Jul 21, 2007, at 5:16 PM, David Breneman wrote:

> My MGA has a name: The MG.  It was named in honor of my first
> MG, The MG.  I do not anthropomorphize The MG.  It hates it
> when I do that.

My brother tends to come up with names for his cars, but I generally  
don't

I have "the MG" and "the Scooby".

However, my coworkers and friends all feel that names for cars are  
important, so the MG is also known as Penny Lane, and the Subaru is  
also "the Outbike" (they wanted to refer to her as the Babyback, but  
I wasn't having it).

However, while I don't generally refer to them by name, I refer to  
both with gender. Both cars are most certainly "she".  Regarding the  
MG, she knows when I get paid too.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/
  '75 MGB (red for now), HIF4 carbs
  '06 Subaru Impreza Outback

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Jul 21 22:05:29 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 23:05:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Caliper installed
References: <mailman.11.1185040802.15514.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <010f01c7cc16$1d2d66d0$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

I've done it two ways.

1) I made piece to press the seal retainer in out of hardwood (because 
woodworking is another hobby and I have the tools). It fit over the 
piston and pushes (using a C-clamp) the seal retainer in using the 
piston as its guide.

I lost that piece so:

B) I utilize one of the old seal retainers - positioned upside down 
over the new retainer. I partially install the piston, put the new 
seal & retainer in place and then the old retainer outboard of that. 
Use a C-clamp and an old brake pad to press the whole lot into place.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 
>
> How did you install the metal ring seal around the piston?
>
> Mine keep bending and warping!!
>
> JR
> Birmingham, AL

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jul 21 22:10:40 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 13:40:40 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>
References: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <276ACEBE-D363-4D32-AB3F-4FD7B7DBF336@erickson.on.net>

I named my primrose '68 'B... Primrose!  Mainly because I used to get  
so many comments that a pale yellow was a wussy colour for a wannabe  
race car, so I gave it a wussy name!  Or maybe because that was her  
colour.

Then I went and got it painted so its name had to change to... Blue.

No real imagination there and it might be more reasonable if I had  
more than one and I needed to differentiate between them, but hell,  
no-one hears those names except the car and I in those quiet times  
when she needs that encouragement.

I usually utter the name in sentences like:  "Come on you Blue  
bastard - FASTER!"

Hmmm, maybe the name has always been a two part one after all!

:-)


Eric

From ptegler at cablespeed.com  Sat Jul 21 23:19:18 2007
From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 01:19:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
References: <778874.46325.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c7cc1f$de2249b0$0201a8c0@dragonlair>

Although I've 'named' my cars over the years... it's only because I needed 
some way of differentiating one from another when talking about them with 
the wife, friends and etc.  It started with 'the twins'  a pair of matching 
'73 BGT's   YB and OB.  Yellow B and Orange B (well... Blaze Red)   Since OB 
is still around...the name has been changed to OBIE

Since then...there has been The Black Beasty, Lil' Greenie and Lil' Whitey 
(a pair of round wheel arch Midgets)  Lil' Whitey, ...as there was already a 
Whitey in the driveway. ( a white '75 Spitfire)   Big Red... a Carmine Red 
GT6 (6 cylinder...hence the 'big')

oh...true.... there has been The Bastard Child,  Rat, Cherry, Titlelus 
(never had a title)  and the  latest and greatest.... Physics...but spelled 
FIS6
which stands for Fuel Injected Spit 6.

So as to naming cars....  I never really put any thought into it. They 
selected their own names out of necessity.  Someone 'not' into these cars 
has no idea which car your talking about if you just say "..my BGT", when 
they see you driving 5 of 6 different cars within the same summer.

If you have NEVER named a car.... personally I'd say there is a big piece of 
'heart' missing from enjoying these old treasures.

fso   ymmv   jmmo

Paul Tegler
ptegler at cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Breneman" <david_breneman at yahoo.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)


> --- MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:
>
>
>> I've never named a car!   We've had this MGB for 16 years... no
>> name.
>
> My MGA 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sun Jul 22 04:18:29 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 05:18:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
In-Reply-To: <000a01c7cc1f$de2249b0$0201a8c0@dragonlair>
References: <778874.46325.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<000a01c7cc1f$de2249b0$0201a8c0@dragonlair>
Message-ID: <46A32EF5.2070300@ktc.com>

  Peg named our MGB.  One night we were talking about where the cars & 
pickup were parked and Peg said, "Well, the pickup and the Prius are 
under the carport but 'Her Majesty' stays in the garage."

   CR

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Jul 22 06:34:39 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:34:39 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] 64 Brake Master
References: <46A27E61.2050003@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c7cc5c$abcc02c0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

There is a nice description in the manual How to restore an MGB by Sidney 
Porter.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Roxter" <rocknatural at gmail.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:45 PM
Subject: [Mgs] 64 Brake Master


> My Victor is MGB-based. The Brake master cylinder is the one with the
> big round plastic tub that leans forward. I took the spare to a brake
> shop months ago to have it redone. Yesterday they called and said they
> didn't know how to take it apart and they're sending it back. I'm a
> pretty good mechanic, especially on British cars, but I have never had
> one of these apart before. Is there some sort of secret to disassembly
> on these? I have a manual somewhere, but it will take some looking to
> find it. Usually the only thing I use a manual for is torque values,
> since I'm pretty good at puzzles, but thought I should ask here before
> starting to work on it.
>
> Also, if you know of a website with instructions and/or illustrations, 
> please let me know.
>
> -The Roxter

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 22 07:18:48 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 06:18:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
In-Reply-To: <46A32EF5.2070300@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <922072.82637.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Charles & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:
>... but 'Her Majesty' stays in the garage."
> 
>    CR

LOL!  The '70 MG sets in the garage leaving my
Mercedes SL500 sitting outside!  There's a 10:1
present-value between the cars and the MG STILL gets
the garage space! :-P

rick

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Sun Jul 22 08:24:52 2007
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 10:24:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
In-Reply-To: <46A32EF5.2070300@ktc.com>
References: <778874.46325.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<000a01c7cc1f$de2249b0$0201a8c0@dragonlair> <46A32EF5.2070300@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <46A368B4.6040305@tampabay.rr.com>

Haven't named our MG's but call our Garmin GPS  "Moana". Whenever we 
don't follow her directions, she says "ReCALCulating" in a really  
exasperated tone.
Dave Houser

Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:

>  Peg named our MGB.  One night we were talking about where the cars & 
>pickup were parked and Peg said, "Well, the pickup and the Prius are 
>under the carport but 'Her Majesty' stays in the garage."

From erictw1 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 22 09:19:27 2007
From: erictw1 at sbcglobal.net (Eric Houkal)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 08:19:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
In-Reply-To: <46A368B4.6040305@tampabay.rr.com>
Message-ID: <184397.75668.qm@web80705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ah, you've noticed that too- I keep waiting for her toadd "stupid" to the remark. She also seems to get more exasperated the more often you defy her orders.
  

dave houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
  Haven't named our MG's but call our Garmin GPS "Moana". Whenever we 
don't follow her directions, she says "ReCALCulating" in a really 
exasperated tone.
Dave Houser

Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:

> Peg named our MGB. One night we were talking about where the cars & 
>pickup were parked and Peg said, "Well, the pickup and the Prius are 
>under the carport but 'Her Majesty' stays in the garage."
_______________________________________________
erictw1 at sbcglobal.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Sun Jul 22 10:03:00 2007
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (Bill Saidel)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:03:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <276ACEBE-D363-4D32-AB3F-4FD7B7DBF336@erickson.on.net>
References: <c11.19912499.33d3dcf5@aol.com>
	<276ACEBE-D363-4D32-AB3F-4FD7B7DBF336@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.4.64.0707221200170.18505@crab.rutgers.edu>

What a hoot this conversation is.

I named my 76B 'she who must be obeyed' until IT became reliable. Then 
it became the nameless car that peed on the driveway.

My cat is named Sasha and she pees on the driveway, too.

MY SO and I think she is neurotic.


Bill Saidel

From rrutherf at ucalgary.ca  Sun Jul 22 11:15:10 2007
From: rrutherf at ucalgary.ca (Robert Rutherford)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 10:15:10 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
In-Reply-To: <184397.75668.qm@web80705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <184397.75668.qm@web80705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <op.tvvl7kjjnrq0j9@bigmac.local>

'Moana was a pain so I switched to the British voice. Cool lady - no  
whingeing.

Robert Rutherford

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 08:19:27 -0700, Eric Houkal <erictw1 at sbcglobal.net>  
wrote:

> Ah, you've noticed that too- I keep waiting for her toadd "stupid" to  
> the remark. She also seems to get more exasperated the more often you  
> defy her orders.
>
> dave houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
>   Haven't named our MG's but call our Garmin GPS "Moana". Whenever we
> don't follow her directions, she says "ReCALCulating" in a really
> exasperated tone.
> Dave Houser
>
> Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>
>> Peg named our MGB. One night we were talking about where the cars &
>> pickup were parked and Peg said, "Well, the pickup and the Prius are
>> under the carport but 'Her Majesty' stays in the garage."
> _______________________________________________
> erictw1 at sbcglobal.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> rrutherf at ucalgary.ca
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>



-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 22 11:37:45 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 10:37:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.64.0707221200170.18505@crab.rutgers.edu>
Message-ID: <75737.76768.qm@web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

> My cat... MY SO and I think she is neurotic.

:-)  Well done.  "Cat" defined.

Look up "neurotic" in the book and there's a picture
of our cat Buster!

rick 

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sun Jul 22 11:49:53 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:49:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
In-Reply-To: <004001c7cbf8$5335c830$6600a8c0@XPS410>
References: <004001c7cbf8$5335c830$6600a8c0@XPS410>
Message-ID: <46A398C1.4040600@gmail.com>

Howard Battan wrote:
> Well, I guess my MGs have names. The MGA was always "the A", and now that I
> have others, they are "the B" and "the TF". If I say "the MG", it's not
> clear which one I mean. My motorcycle, however, does have a real name. It's
> painted to resemble "Pappy" Boyington's Corsair, so it got to be called
> "Lulubelle"
In 1996, I obtained Terry Pratchett's permission to name the Cooper S "The Luggage," after the character in Terry's novels. In 1998, he signed the bonnet in gold paint. The Luggage is a small trunk with thousands of legs that follows Rincewind the wizzard around. It's made of sapient pearwood, so it has a mind of its own. Terry describes it thus: it's bigger on the inside than it is on the outside, it has a very bad attitude and it's fiercely loyal to its owner. That's obviously a list of Mini Cooper attibutes too.

The Victor Special TF-1 is just called "The Victor," although I also sometimes call it "The Tupperware Dragon."

-The Roxter
--

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 22 13:43:33 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:43:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
Message-ID: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Folks,

   I took advantage of a massive TireRack sale and
put 19" wheels and tires on my '98 SL500.  Some said
it would look an abomination and others said it would
drive terribly - and yet others said that they have
plus-sized their wheels and they did really well.  I
figure I couldn't hurt the looks much given that it
had 16" CHROME after-market pseudo-Mercedes wheels.

   Here's what I have found; Yes, the car looks a
little 'youngish' for my likes but its not bad.  Of
course, taste is in the mouth of the beholder and we
all know the opinions-simile.  Here's how the car
looks: http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0727.JPG .  You
either kinda like it or you just puked!  Either way,
I'm not there to see (or smell) it.  If you can stand
it, here's a 3/4 front view:
http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0730.JPG .  I now need
to clean up the suspension and brake hardware - now
that its all visible - and perhaps repaint the
calipers back silver.
   The ride height is the same as with the 16" wheels
and correct tires, so there is no distortion there. 
The big change is that the sidewall is 1-1/2" shorter:
http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0729.JPG (not to
mention 20mm wider tread).  It is kinda cool that the
M-B star inserts are the older style with the blue
surround.  My car's interior and top are blue.
   Now let's forget the appearance and talk drive.  In
short, I am very pleased.  To my tastes, the stock
SL500 ride is that of a luxury car.  It is soft but
sure footed.  And we all know that 315hp is a good
thing.  What I find with the shorter sidewalls is a
much stiffer ride.  The car feels more like a sports
car.  Yes, the smooth luxury car feel is still there
in straight and level flight but given a little
'attitude', the car feels the road much better.  I 
hate to put it this way but...  You know how a BMW 
feels sooooo much better than a Honda or Toyota?  
That's the difference I now feel in my SL.
   So the bottom line is that I kinda like the more
aggressive look - if a little youthful - and I can
deal with that easily for the improved feel of the
road.
   I am pleased - whatever that says about me. :-)

Regards,

Rick
'98 M-B SL500
other stuff

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 22 13:41:55 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 12:41:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <cea.14d01188.33d3868c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2C90113.11C11%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Have you inspected the shoes? A rear axle oil leak will coat the shoes and
make them "grabby".

Or perhaps the other side isn't actuating at all.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/21/07 8:55 AM, MGMagnette at aol.com at MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:

> Last year I rebuilt everything on the rear axle...  brakes  included.   So
> this spring it has a brake problem.  When you  step on the brake, the
> passenger 
> side rear brake grabs hold way too hard and  leaves a patch of rubber.  I
> tried adjusting the thing so the other side  would grab sooner, but no luck.
> It 
> appears both sides of the brakes are  working at the same time.   Any
> suggestions?  As I said,  everything is new.
>  
> -John

From derex39 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 22 14:18:20 2007
From: derex39 at hotmail.com (Dereck C)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 20:18:20 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars (was MGB likes to lay a patch)
Message-ID: <BAY107-F18487FD71A89E65BB4AA89ABF60@phx.gbl>

My 70B has recently been named "The Mistress".  She's been hiding in a 
storage garage for a couple of years now until recently.  She recently left 
the hiding spot and is in full view in our carport.  So everytime the wife 
comes home she gets a full view of her.  Years ago, prior to storage, "The 
Mistress" took up alot of my time.  Can you believe it?  Funny thing is that 
the MGB actually started our relationship.  I was rebuilding her in my 
garage and my neighbor, now my wife, came over to "help" me and "learn" a 
little about cars.  Later that night was our first date.  Funny thing she 
doesn't do that anymore!?  ;)

Dereck
70 B "The Mistress" needs a new master cylinder and the fuel pump points 
freed up to be on the road again.

From mrazor at bellsouth.net  Sun Jul 22 14:31:36 2007
From: mrazor at bellsouth.net (Michael Razor)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:31:36 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Side Curtain Storage Bag
Message-ID: <20070722203140.OFH9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@dad>

I have a 1959 MGA and I have never had the storage bag that hangs behind the
seats.  I am thinking about getting one but don't know how it is affixed to
the car.

Can someone advise?

Thanks

From dynajim at bellsouth.net  Sun Jul 22 14:47:09 2007
From: dynajim at bellsouth.net (dynajim)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:47:09 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAI+LiI/go9RMo5xUYByZfF3CgAAAEAAAAKPs91yBj6xKmb8kwamStuIBAAAAAA==@bellsouth.net>

We Call Our Little Midget "Smithers". Alias "Smitty". Car Has Carried This
Name Since New!!

 

 

 

'72 Midget

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Sun Jul 22 15:19:10 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 17:19:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Side Curtain Storage Bag
References: <20070722203140.OFH9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@dad>
Message-ID: <007b01c7cca5$f213c300$6501a8c0@RicksPC>

Mike

Go to Barney's site for explanation of how to do this. 
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/interior/int107.htm

Rick
Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG 
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature 
Coast English Car Club
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Razor" <mrazor at bellsouth.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 16:31
Subject: [Mgs] Side Curtain Storage Bag


>I have a 1959 MGA and I have never had the storage bag that hangs behind 
>the
> seats.  I am thinking about getting one but don't know how it is affixed 
> to
> the car.
>
> Can someone advise?
>
> Thanks

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 22 14:19:17 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 13:19:17 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C2C909D5.11C1E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Well, since you asked...

Those are 19" wheels? It's funny how the tires look too small for the
wheelwells, like they need another inch of sidewall. Reminds me of a Fox
platform Mustang -- they always looked like the wheels were too small (or,
conversely, the wheel cutouts were too big).

I just never like seeing inner fender well all the way around the tire. Like
on a rubber bumper B, unfortunately.



--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/22/07 12:43 PM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> Hello Folks,
> 
>    I took advantage of a massive TireRack sale and
> put 19" wheels and tires on my '98 SL500.  Some said
> it would look an abomination and others said it would
> drive terribly - and yet others said that they have
> plus-sized their wheels and they did really well.  I
> figure I couldn't hurt the looks much given that it
> had 16" CHROME after-market pseudo-Mercedes wheels.
> 
>    Here's what I have found; Yes, the car looks a
> little 'youngish' for my likes but its not bad.  Of
> course, taste is in the mouth of the beholder and we
> all know the opinions-simile.  Here's how the car
> looks: http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0727.JPG .  You
> either kinda like it or you just puked!  Either way,
> I'm not there to see (or smell) it.  If you can stand
> it, here's a 3/4 front view:
> http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0730.JPG .  I now need
> to clean up the suspension and brake hardware - now
> that its all visible - and perhaps repaint the
> calipers back silver.
>    The ride height is the same as with the 16" wheels
> and correct tires, so there is no distortion there.
> The big change is that the sidewall is 1-1/2" shorter:
> http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0729.JPG (not to
> mention 20mm wider tread).  It is kinda cool that the
> M-B star inserts are the older style with the blue
> surround.  My car's interior and top are blue.
>    Now let's forget the appearance and talk drive.  In
> short, I am very pleased.  To my tastes, the stock
> SL500 ride is that of a luxury car.  It is soft but
> sure footed.  And we all know that 315hp is a good
> thing.  What I find with the shorter sidewalls is a
> much stiffer ride.  The car feels more like a sports
> car.  Yes, the smooth luxury car feel is still there
> in straight and level flight but given a little
> 'attitude', the car feels the road much better.  I
> hate to put it this way but...  You know how a BMW
> feels sooooo much better than a Honda or Toyota?
> That's the difference I now feel in my SL.
>    So the bottom line is that I kinda like the more
> aggressive look - if a little youthful - and I can
> deal with that easily for the improved feel of the
> road.
>    I am pleased - whatever that says about me. :-)
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rick
> '98 M-B SL500
> other stuff
> _____________________________________________

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Jul 22 16:03:05 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 17:03:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <C2C909D5.11C1E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C2C909D5.11C1E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000001c7ccac$1647bd70$42d73850$@com>

Last time a saw a man with a car with wheels like that...

He was in trouble with the po-lice.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max
Heim
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 3:19 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC

Well, since you asked...

Those are 19" wheels? It's funny how the tires look too small for the
wheelwells, like they need another inch of sidewall. Reminds me of a Fox
platform Mustang -- they always looked like the wheels were too small (or,
conversely, the wheel cutouts were too big).

I just never like seeing inner fender well all the way around the tire. Like
on a rubber bumper B, unfortunately.



--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/22/07 12:43 PM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> Hello Folks,
> 
>    I took advantage of a massive TireRack sale and
> put 19" wheels and tires on my '98 SL500.  Some said
> it would look an abomination and others said it would
> drive terribly - and yet others said that they have
> plus-sized their wheels and they did really well.  I
> figure I couldn't hurt the looks much given that it
> had 16" CHROME after-market pseudo-Mercedes wheels.
> 
>    Here's what I have found; Yes, the car looks a
> little 'youngish' for my likes but its not bad.  Of
> course, taste is in the mouth of the beholder and we
> all know the opinions-simile.  Here's how the car
> looks: http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0727.JPG .  You
> either kinda like it or you just puked!  Either way,
> I'm not there to see (or smell) it.  If you can stand
> it, here's a 3/4 front view:
> http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0730.JPG .  I now need
> to clean up the suspension and brake hardware - now
> that its all visible - and perhaps repaint the
> calipers back silver.
>    The ride height is the same as with the 16" wheels
> and correct tires, so there is no distortion there.
> The big change is that the sidewall is 1-1/2" shorter:
> http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0729.JPG (not to
> mention 20mm wider tread).  It is kinda cool that the
> M-B star inserts are the older style with the blue
> surround.  My car's interior and top are blue.
>    Now let's forget the appearance and talk drive.  In
> short, I am very pleased.  To my tastes, the stock
> SL500 ride is that of a luxury car.  It is soft but
> sure footed.  And we all know that 315hp is a good
> thing.  What I find with the shorter sidewalls is a
> much stiffer ride.  The car feels more like a sports
> car.  Yes, the smooth luxury car feel is still there
> in straight and level flight but given a little
> 'attitude', the car feels the road much better.  I
> hate to put it this way but...  You know how a BMW
> feels sooooo much better than a Honda or Toyota?
> That's the difference I now feel in my SL.
>    So the bottom line is that I kinda like the more
> aggressive look - if a little youthful - and I can
> deal with that easily for the improved feel of the
> road.
>    I am pleased - whatever that says about me. :-)
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rick
> '98 M-B SL500
> other stuff
> _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________

From bilking at comcast.net  Sun Jul 22 16:11:30 2007
From: bilking at comcast.net (bill)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 18:11:30 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <LPEMJCGBDOAOFNHIMDIHMEMDCAAA.bilking@comcast.net>

More room for Brembos.

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Sun Jul 22 19:17:34 2007
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 18:17:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rubber
Message-ID: <00b901c7ccc7$44893770$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>

A while back someone on the list was complaining about the quality, or lack
there of, of rubber parts sold by MOSS Motors.  Has the quality improved, or
was it ever a problem at all?  I will be ordering all rubber  (glass,
windscreen, doors, boot, etc.) and would like to get quality parts the first
time.
Any comments?
Danny V.
'58 MGA daily driver
'76 MGB V-6 project

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 22 20:38:55 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:38:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rubber
In-Reply-To: <00b901c7ccc7$44893770$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <93531.4639.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

there's a company called MacGregor out of canada that provides first class rubber products.  its a small shop and imho think they make an excellent product.  i bought their "rubber in a box" kit which had most of the mg rubber and thought i really got my money's worth.  
   
  905-627-4006
  mjmbritish at execulink.com
www.macgregorukcarparts.com
   
  nfi
   
  
dannyvarnado <dannyvarnado at cox.net> wrote:
  A while back someone on the list was complaining about the quality, or lack
there of, of rubber parts sold by MOSS Motors. Has the quality improved, or
was it ever a problem at all? I will be ordering all rubber (glass,
windscreen, doors, boot, etc.) and would like to get quality parts the first
time.
Any comments?
Danny V.
'58 MGA daily driver
'76 MGB V-6 project
_______________________________________________
sumton at sbcglobal.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sun Jul 22 22:55:11 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 21:55:11 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Is that a Midget in the picture?
Message-ID: <40b437200707222155g2514c1b1wbbdc7e7df6569b02@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml;jsessionid=CFKPXZBFJQ4ZXQFIQMFCFFWAVCBQYIV0?xml=/news/2007/07/23/nflood223.xml

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sun Jul 22 23:42:25 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 00:42:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Side Curtain Storage Bag
In-Reply-To: <007b01c7cca5$f213c300$6501a8c0@RicksPC>
References: <20070722203140.OFH9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@dad>
	<007b01c7cca5$f213c300$6501a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <46A43FC1.6020600@wi.net>

I could not find it on Barney's site (I'm probably going blind in my old 
age) but I might refer you to Anders Clausager's, /Original MGA/, page 
45.  I'm afraid I have the later style envelope (bottom in picture) as I 
have been unable to find the early type with the "ears" for the upper 
Lift-the-Dot fasteners.  As far as I have been able to determine, the 
envelope (storage bag) is stapled to the underside of the cockpit rail.

Regards,
Dave Woerpel
MGA 1500 #62403



Rick Brown wrote:
> Mike
>
> Go to Barney's site for explanation of how to do this. 
> http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/interior/int107.htm
>
> Rick
>
>
>   
>> I have a 1959 MGA and I have never had the storage bag that hangs behind 
>> the
>> seats.  I am thinking about getting one but don't know how it is affixed 
>> to
>> the car.
>>
>> Can someone advise?
>>
>> Thanks

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sun Jul 22 23:48:16 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 00:48:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Side Curtain Storage Bag
In-Reply-To: <007b01c7cca5$f213c300$6501a8c0@RicksPC>
References: <20070722203140.OFH9504.ibm60aec.bellsouth.net@dad>
	<007b01c7cca5$f213c300$6501a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <46A44120.9050400@wi.net>

oops.  I neglected to thank Rick for giving us the link to Barney's page 
on the subject.
Thanks Rick for turning the light on!
Dave Woerpel
MGA 1500 #62403


Rick Brown wrote:
> Mike
>
> Go to Barney's site for explanation of how to do this. 
> http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/interior/int107.htm
>
> Rick

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 23 01:32:36 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 08:32:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Is that a Midget in the picture?
References: <40b437200707222155g2514c1b1wbbdc7e7df6569b02@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00be01c7ccfb$bb324540$0200a8c0@Three>

That looks like the car I saw on TV last night, but from a helicopter i.e. 
from above and that definitely was a Midget - poor thing.  My son and family 
got flooded on Friday, not just from river water but from the drains which 
made a right mess.  We were down there yesterday helping them clean up - not 
pleasant.  The silver lining was the first decent run (Solihull to London 
and back) in the ZS.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml;jsessionid=CFKPXZBFJQ4ZXQFIQMFCFFWAVCBQYIV0?xml=/news/2007/07/23/nflood223.xml

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jul 23 02:48:27 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 18:18:27 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <91F2FABA-DAFB-4607-883D-79CB2B0C924D@erickson.on.net>

On 23/07/2007, at 5:13 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:
>
>    I took advantage of a massive TireRack sale and
> put 19" wheels and tires on my '98 SL500.  Some said
> it would look an abomination and others said it would
> drive terribly - and yet others said that they have
> plus-sized their wheels and they did really well.  I
> figure I couldn't hurt the looks much given that it
> had 16" CHROME after-market pseudo-Mercedes wheels.
>
>

Looks like a black, rubber bandage wrapped around the wheel.

I hope they sell those tyres cheaply - there is bugger all rubber in  
them :-)


Eric

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 23 06:39:12 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 05:39:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Is that a Midget in the picture?
In-Reply-To: <40b437200707222155g2514c1b1wbbdc7e7df6569b02@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <783516.69634.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

...certainly looks it!  At least its no wetter than
usual! :-P

rick

--- Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com> wrote:

>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml;jsessionid=CFKPXZBFJQ4ZXQFIQMFCFFWAVCBQYIV0?xml=/news/2007/07/23/nflood223.xml
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Mon Jul 23 06:59:52 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 08:59:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <C2C90113.11C11%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <cea.14d01188.33d3868c@aol.com>
	<C2C90113.11C11%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <76664a460707230559o44c6c68bk98060129e7bde3a5@mail.gmail.com>

On my bimmer the front does this and its a the slid bolts on the
caliper... totally unrelated tech, but it causes the pads to be worn
at an angle and replacing the pads was not the solution... you might
need to look back in a few miles and see if the problem is still there
and dig deeper. FWIW

- Steve

On 7/22/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Have you inspected the shoes? A rear axle oil leak will coat the shoes and
> make them "grabby".
>
> Or perhaps the other side isn't actuating at all.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 7/21/07 8:55 AM, MGMagnette at aol.com at MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:
>
> > Last year I rebuilt everything on the rear axle...  brakes  included.   So
> > this spring it has a brake problem.  When you  step on the brake, the
> > passenger
> > side rear brake grabs hold way too hard and  leaves a patch of rubber.  I
> > tried adjusting the thing so the other side  would grab sooner, but no luck.
> > It
> > appears both sides of the brakes are  working at the same time.   Any
> > suggestions?  As I said,  everything is new.
> >
> > -John
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Mon Jul 23 07:06:21 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:06:21 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] naming cars
In-Reply-To: <op.tvvl7kjjnrq0j9@bigmac.local>
References: <184397.75668.qm@web80705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<op.tvvl7kjjnrq0j9@bigmac.local>
Message-ID: <76664a460707230606t4a0131d2h93c6c017dcb1fbeb@mail.gmail.com>

Funny... my parts car is in the garage and my other cars are out and about.

On 7/22/07, Robert Rutherford <rrutherf at ucalgary.ca> wrote:
> 'Moana was a pain so I switched to the British voice. Cool lady - no
> whingeing.
>
> Robert Rutherford
>
> On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 08:19:27 -0700, Eric Houkal <erictw1 at sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Ah, you've noticed that too- I keep waiting for her toadd "stupid" to
> > the remark. She also seems to get more exasperated the more often you
> > defy her orders.
> >
> > dave houser <mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> >   Haven't named our MG's but call our Garmin GPS "Moana". Whenever we
> > don't follow her directions, she says "ReCALCulating" in a really
> > exasperated tone.
> > Dave Houser
> >
> > Charles & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> >
> >> Peg named our MGB. One night we were talking about where the cars &
> >> pickup were parked and Peg said, "Well, the pickup and the Prius are
> >> under the carport but 'Her Majesty' stays in the garage."
> > _______________________________________________
> > erictw1 at sbcglobal.net
> >
> > Edit your replies
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> > _______________________________________________
> > rrutherf at ucalgary.ca
> >
> > Edit your replies
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From kger at plex.com  Mon Jul 23 07:21:34 2007
From: kger at plex.com (Keith G.)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:21:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] B master cylinder
Message-ID: <46A4731E.8076.33FEBBDA@kger.plex.com>

In trying to bleed my 79 B's brakes, I found nothing was happening at 
the rear brakes.  I checked each connection back toward the master 
cylinder and found the same thing.  Finally, I disconnected the line 
from the master cylinder and found that no fluid comes out of that 
port on the master cylinder.  Well, that would explain it.  
(Meanwhile, I can bleed the front brakes just fine.)

So, I assume this means it's time to replace the brake master 
cylinder, yes?  Or is this something that can/should be repaired?

As far as I know, it is the factory piece, so I suppose I should not 
be too surprised.  And I am grateful that this happened in my garage 
and not out on the road somewhere.

-- 
Keith G.
1979 B

From mrazor at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul 23 07:58:46 2007
From: mrazor at bellsouth.net (Michael Razor)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:58:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Side Curtain Storage Bag
In-Reply-To: <46A43FC1.6020600@wi.net>
Message-ID: <20070723135848.LHET16877.ibm56aec.bellsouth.net@dad>

Went to Barney's web page and all was revealed.  Thanks to all for the tip,
I had forgotten about that treasure trove of information.  I spent a lot of
time on it last night just browsing on a multitude of topics.

Michael L. Razor, Investigator III d

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Jul 23 07:55:17 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:55:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 64 Brake Master
Message-ID: <20070723.100618.3088.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

  If this is the 'tandem master cylinder', it's not all that more
difficult that removing the top from a jar of peanut butter, except that
there is a circlip  (#14 in workshop manual) that is 3/4 inch or so
inside the bore after the circlip (#16) has been removed first.  #14 can
be difficult to see if there is dirt in the bore.  If dirt is a problem,
just keep rinsiing it with brake cleaner as you proceed, so you can see
the little bits inside.
Bob


 
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 16:45:05 -0500 The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com>
writes:
> My Victor is MGB-based. The Brake master cylinder is the one with the 
> 
> big round plastic tub that leans forward. I took the spare to a 
> brake 
> shop months ago to have it redone. Yesterday they called and said 
> they 
> didn't know how to take it apart and they're sending it back. I'm a 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 23 08:26:11 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:26:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] B master cylinder
References: <46A4731E.8076.33FEBBDA@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <005001c7cd35$75dbd350$0200a8c0@Three>

A brake master consists of a cylinder and a piston.  The cylinder has two 
ports in it - an inlet port that is only open when the piston is fully 
released which lets fluid from the reservoir fill the cylinder, and an 
outlet port that is 'open' all the time and is what the piston pushes fluid 
out of to operate the brakes.  As soon as the piston starts to move the 
inlet port is closed off by the piston so all the pressure is applied to the 
outlet port.  So if no fluid is coming out of the outlet either it is 
blocked, or the inlet port is blocked and not letting any fluid into the 
cylinder.  Obviously the dual circuit with pressure differential switch is 
more complicated, but I'd expect that with dismantling you should be able to 
access and check both ports for each circuit.  From Haynes the rear section 
seems to feed the front brakes and the front section the rears, and the two 
pistons are not physically connected except by fluid, so it seems possible 
that the front section could be empty of fluid i.e. its inlet port is not 
allowing fluid in.  I take it there is enough fluid in the reservoir to fill 
both sections?

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> In trying to bleed my 79 B's brakes, I found nothing was happening at
> the rear brakes.  I checked each connection back toward the master
> cylinder and found the same thing.  Finally, I disconnected the line
> from the master cylinder and found that no fluid comes out of that
> port on the master cylinder. 

From rjdisi at aol.com  Mon Jul 23 09:03:51 2007
From: rjdisi at aol.com (rjdisi at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:03:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <8C99B51D08B23ED-C08-8537@FWM-D15.sysops.aol.com>

cancel

________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

From rjdisi at aol.com  Mon Jul 23 09:07:44 2007
From: rjdisi at aol.com (rjdisi at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:07:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] cancel
Message-ID: <8C99B525B339475-C08-8583@FWM-D15.sysops.aol.com>

________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jul 23 09:13:56 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 00:43:56 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <8C99B51D08B23ED-C08-8537@FWM-D15.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8C99B51D08B23ED-C08-8537@FWM-D15.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <721ADA3B-72BC-4F57-B10A-D2484316E2AF@erickson.on.net>

On 24/07/2007, at 12:33 AM, rjdisi at aol.com wrote:

> cancel
>

This is the Hotel California of lists.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 23 09:33:06 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 08:33:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <cef.1552b150.33d38cb9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C00F5@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Second Bill's suggestion, but taking it further.

If you have brake fluid or oil contamination on one side, the other side
can lock as it is doing all the braking.

Also if you have a leaking front caliper that has contaminated the brake
pad, the reduction in braking efficiency can cause the rear brakes to
lock up under hard braking.



Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WSpohn4 at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 9:22 AM
> To: MGMagnette at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
>
> In a message dated 21/07/2007 8:57:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> MGMagnette at aol.com writes:
>
> When  you  step on the brake, the passenger
> side rear brake grabs hold way  too hard and  leaves a patch of
rubber.  I
> tried adjusting the  thing so the other side  would grab sooner, but
no
> luck.
>  It
> appears both sides of the brakes are  working at the same  time.   Any
> suggestions?
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Yes - pull the drum off and see if you have a leaking seal - either
brake
> fluid or diff oil on the linings will give that effect.
>
> Bill S.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Jul 23 09:48:53 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 08:48:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C00F5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <cef.1552b150.33d38cb9@aol.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C00F5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10707230848p45ee49efn123dcca7559bff92@mail.gmail.com>

This is about as wrong as it can be.  A fluid contaminated brake will grab
and lock.  Not slip.  I know this seems somewhat counter intuitive, but that
is the way it works.  Even greasy fingerprints left on a brake shoe can
cause that wheel to lock.
Rick
ASE master automotive technician
'67B roadster

On 7/23/07, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
> Second Bill's suggestion, but taking it further.
>
> If you have brake fluid or oil contamination on one side, the other side
> can lock as it is doing all the braking.
>
> Also if you have a leaking front caliper that has contaminated the brake
> pad, the reduction in braking efficiency can cause the rear brakes to
> lock up under hard braking.
>
>
>
> Kelvin Dodd
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> WSpohn4 at aol.com
> > Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 9:22 AM
> > To: MGMagnette at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
> >
> > In a message dated 21/07/2007 8:57:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > MGMagnette at aol.com writes:
> >
> > When  you  step on the brake, the passenger
> > side rear brake grabs hold way  too hard and  leaves a patch of
> rubber.  I
> > tried adjusting the  thing so the other side  would grab sooner, but
> no
> > luck.
> >  It
> > appears both sides of the brakes are  working at the same  time.   Any
> > suggestions?
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Yes - pull the drum off and see if you have a leaking seal - either
> brake
> > fluid or diff oil on the linings will give that effect.
> >
> > Bill S.
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 23 10:07:31 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:07:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10707230848p45ee49efn123dcca7559bff92@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0114@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Richard:

The main point I was making is that wheels other than the locking one can be
the problem.

Carefully inspect all four brakes as the symptoms may not point directly to
the problem area.


My experience may be different than your own, but I have worked on cars that
have had rear brake lockup due to front caliper leakage and also offside wheel
seal failure.



Kelvin.






________________________________________
From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 8:49 AM
To: Dodd, Kelvin
Cc: WSpohn4 at aol.com; MGMagnette at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch

This is about as wrong as it can be.  A fluid contaminated brake will grab and
lock.  Not slip.  I know this seems somewhat counter intuitive, but that is
the way it works.  Even greasy fingerprints left on a brake shoe can cause
that wheel to lock. 
Rick
ASE master automotive technician
'67B roadster
On 7/23/07, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com > wrote:
Second Bill's suggestion, but taking it further.

If you have brake fluid or oil contamination on one side, the other side
can lock as it is doing all the braking.

Also if you have a leaking front caliper that has contaminated the brake
pad, the reduction in braking efficiency can cause the rear brakes to
lock up under hard braking.



Kelvin Dodd

From mgmagnette at aol.com  Mon Jul 23 10:16:57 2007
From: mgmagnette at aol.com (mgmagnette at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:16:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0114@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <8C99B5C068FF1E7-FF0-1CF5@mblk-d51.sysops.aol.com>

In my case, it was definately the contaminated shoes which were causing the lock up.? How/why they got contaminated i'm not sure about yet.?? We'll see how long it takes to ruin these!

-John
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Mon Jul 23 10:29:34 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:29:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
Message-ID: <s6a47518.072@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

My experience has always been that a leaky rear axle seal (all too
common) on my MGB would make that brake not function, leaving the brake
on the other side of the car more effective.   I've had MGs for 40
years.
Don Scott
'62 MGA
'91 Miata BRG
'73 MGB GT


>>> "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> 7/23/2007 9:07:31 AM >>>
Richard:

The main point I was making is that wheels other than the locking one
can be
the problem.

Carefully inspect all four brakes as the symptoms may not point
directly to
the problem area.


My experience may be different than your own, but I have worked on cars
that
have had rear brake lockup due to front caliper leakage and also
offside wheel
seal failure.



Kelvin.






________________________________________
From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 8:49 AM
To: Dodd, Kelvin
Cc: WSpohn4 at aol.com; MGMagnette at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch

This is about as wrong as it can be.  A fluid contaminated brake will
grab and
lock.  Not slip.  I know this seems somewhat counter intuitive, but
that is
the way it works.  Even greasy fingerprints left on a brake shoe can
cause
that wheel to lock. 
Rick
ASE master automotive technician
'67B roadster
On 7/23/07, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com > wrote:
Second Bill's suggestion, but taking it further.

If you have brake fluid or oil contamination on one side, the other
side
can lock as it is doing all the braking.

Also if you have a leaking front caliper that has contaminated the
brake
pad, the reduction in braking efficiency can cause the rear brakes to
lock up under hard braking.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 23 10:31:27 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:31:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C00F5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <00ad01c7cd46$f5be6950$0200a8c0@Three>

Don't really see this.  The pressure in the good side is the same regardless 
of whether the bad side is doing any retardation or not.  However I have 
experienced locking on the *contaminated* side.  This is assuming the fronts 
are working normally.  OTOH I can see that if the fronts are weak you will 
have to apply more pressure to get the same retardation in which case the 
rears (i.e. both) *will* be liable to lock.  And if someone has one dodgy 
brake, they could have any number.

----- Original Message ----- 
> If you have brake fluid or oil contamination on one side, the other side
> can lock as it is doing all the braking.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 23 11:09:51 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:09:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Plus sized wheels for B
In-Reply-To: <017001c7cbb9$0de3f520$84637dc7@Terrafirma>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0145@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Blair:

This needs to be on the FAQ list, wherever that may be.

You need at least +22mm offset to get the wheel centered in the well. A
bit more is ok, less is not.

15 x 6 will fit up to a 195/60 tire without major rubbing problems with
this offset. You may have minor rubbing on one side if the rear axle has
moved over more than is usual.

185/65 -15 will fit with no problems.

Early SAAB 900 wheels will fit, late will not.




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blair J.
Weiss
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 9:50 AM
> To: 'MGS'
> Subject: [Mgs] Plus sized wheels for B
>
> I am polling the list to see what people are using for 15" wheels. I
am
> about to finish a restoration of a 78 B. The wheels are in such rough
> shape,
> I would rather just put some aluminum wheels on. I did some measuring
and
> I
> am fairly confident I can go 1" wider, as long as the 1" goes
inboard...
> So
> ideally I am looking for 15 X 6 wheels, the local rim place says no
> problem
> except for the bolt circle... 4X110mm? not a popular size, but I seem
to
> remember people fitting datsun 240Z wheels and saab 900 wheels. From
the
> cross reference book I saw, the 240Z wheels are 114mm BC.
>
> Any hints?
>
> Blair
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 23 11:01:16 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:01:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <00ad01c7cd46$f5be6950$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C2CA2CEC.11C9A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I think we're talking about two different situations.

If one rear wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid, that side may be
contaminated as well as not receiving any braking input, causing the other
side to possibly pull or lock up.

But if instead, one side is contaminated with leaking rear axle oil, its
brake shoes will become "grabby" and lock up.

I suppose it is possible that some kinds of metallic shoe material would
merely become slick instead of grabby, I don't know. But I have had the
grabby problem on multiple occasions, with different vehicles. The rear axle
oil leak problem is practically my "bete noire"...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/23/07 9:31 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> Don't really see this.  The pressure in the good side is the same regardless
> of whether the bad side is doing any retardation or not.  However I have
> experienced locking on the *contaminated* side.  This is assuming the fronts
> are working normally.  OTOH I can see that if the fronts are weak you will
> have to apply more pressure to get the same retardation in which case the
> rears (i.e. both) *will* be liable to lock.  And if someone has one dodgy
> brake, they could have any number.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> If you have brake fluid or oil contamination on one side, the other side
>> can lock as it is doing all the braking.
> _______________________________________________

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 23 11:30:01 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:30:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <8C99B5C068FF1E7-FF0-1CF5@mblk-d51.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <898583.54274.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John, on my car the contamination was/is a leaking oil
seal on the axle - yet to be repaired.

rick

--- mgmagnette at aol.com wrote:

> In my case, it was definately the contaminated shoes
> which were causing the lock up.? How/why they got
> contaminated i'm not sure about yet.?? We'll see how
> long it takes to ruin these!
> 
> -John
>
________________________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out
> more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Jul 23 11:43:45 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:43:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <C2CA2CEC.11C9A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00ad01c7cd46$f5be6950$0200a8c0@Three>
	<C2CA2CEC.11C9A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200707231043v28eabb66yccc876150bb4c622@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/23/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I think we're talking about two different situations.
>
> If one rear wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid, that side may be
> contaminated as well as not receiving any braking input, causing the other
> side to possibly pull or lock up.
>
> But if instead, one side is contaminated with leaking rear axle oil, its
> brake shoes will become "grabby" and lock up.

Could it depend on the type of brake and the type of oil? Many years
ago, I had a Citroen which had a hydraulic fluid (mineral oil in this
car) hose just in front of the (inboard) disk brakes. When this hose
leaked and sprayed fluid on the rotors, the brakes did not grab, in
fact, I lost most of the braking effect.

Also, could it be that contaminants could initially cause the brakes
to grab, but then (as they heat up, or whatever), lose braking
effectiveness?

Regards,
Simon

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Mon Jul 23 11:48:55 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 10:48:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Those Portuguese cars
Message-ID: <s6a4879d.089@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

http://www.snopes.com/photos/automobiles/barnfind.asp 


Snopes discusses the cars, but it's still not clear who owned them or
who got them, if anyone.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 23 12:30:13 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:30:13 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <40b437200707231043v28eabb66yccc876150bb4c622@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C2CA41C5.11CB5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Now that's definitely a different situation: disc brakes, and weird <g>
Citroen hydraulic fluid.

Drum brakes are designed so that the rotation of the drum causes the shoes
to tighten up, so they are predisposed to being "grabby". Discs rely purely
on line pressure and friction, so I can see how oil might just make them
slippery.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/23/07 10:43 AM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> On 7/23/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> I think we're talking about two different situations.
>> 
>> If one rear wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid, that side may be
>> contaminated as well as not receiving any braking input, causing the other
>> side to possibly pull or lock up.
>> 
>> But if instead, one side is contaminated with leaking rear axle oil, its
>> brake shoes will become "grabby" and lock up.
> 
> Could it depend on the type of brake and the type of oil? Many years
> ago, I had a Citroen which had a hydraulic fluid (mineral oil in this
> car) hose just in front of the (inboard) disk brakes. When this hose
> leaked and sprayed fluid on the rotors, the brakes did not grab, in
> fact, I lost most of the braking effect.
> 
> Also, could it be that contaminants could initially cause the brakes
> to grab, but then (as they heat up, or whatever), lose braking
> effectiveness?
> 
> Regards,
> Simon

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Jul 23 13:22:44 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:22:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <C2CA41C5.11CB5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <40b437200707231043v28eabb66yccc876150bb4c622@mail.gmail.com>
	<C2CA41C5.11CB5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200707231222u3187a274wa4c4f2dbcdb167bc@mail.gmail.com>

Max,

On 7/23/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Now that's definitely a different situation: disc brakes, and weird <g>
> Citroen hydraulic fluid.

Well, it has also been used in LBCs: Rolls Royce used it.

Regards,
Simon

From smarc at smarc.net  Mon Jul 23 13:25:18 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:25:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Those Portuguese cars
In-Reply-To: <s6a4879d.089@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
References: <s6a4879d.089@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <46A5009E.2060102@smarc.net>

The rest of the story...

http://www.sportscarmarket.com/articles/archives/1110

Marc



DON SCOTT wrote:
> http://www.snopes.com/photos/automobiles/barnfind.asp 
>
>
> Snopes discusses the cars, but it's still not clear who owned them or
> who got them, if anyone.
> _______________________________________________
> smarc at smarc.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From smarc at smarc.net  Mon Jul 23 13:25:34 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:25:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Those Portuguese cars
In-Reply-To: <s6a4879d.089@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
References: <s6a4879d.089@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <46A500AE.5080501@smarc.net>

The rest of the story...

http://www.sportscarmarket.com/articles/archives/1110

Marc



DON SCOTT wrote:
> http://www.snopes.com/photos/automobiles/barnfind.asp 
>
>
> Snopes discusses the cars, but it's still not clear who owned them or
> who got them, if anyone.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 23 13:46:17 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:46:17 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <40b437200707231222u3187a274wa4c4f2dbcdb167bc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C2CA5399.11CDB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Heh heh... I just meant, "weird, as in nobody knows what's in it", although
presumably somebody does...

on 7/23/07 12:22 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> Max,
> 
> On 7/23/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> Now that's definitely a different situation: disc brakes, and weird <g>
>> Citroen hydraulic fluid.
> 
> Well, it has also been used in LBCs: Rolls Royce used it.
> 
> Regards,
> Simon


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From schultejim at msn.com  Mon Jul 23 14:22:38 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 16:22:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] using remote starter on 69 MGC
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV12CB7F71066A6FD86D1F26DBF70@phx.gbl>

I want to adjust the valves on my 69 MGC I have a remote starter with two
leads. Does anyone know how to hook it up so I don't have to manually move the
crank?
Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008

From Craig.Brownlee at oneok.com  Mon Jul 23 14:19:38 2007
From: Craig.Brownlee at oneok.com (Brownlee, Craig)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:19:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Plus sized wheels for B
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0145@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <017001c7cbb9$0de3f520$84637dc7@Terrafirma>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0145@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <F5A668666219504DA1B178599411A18D05C100F2@srvmail08oke.oneok.com>

I purchased 15" Minilite Repo wheels from Moss earlier this spring and
installed Goodyear Eagle GT 195/60/15's.  I love the look.  This
combination of tires and wheels are (in my opinion) a much better
looking solution than the rock hard (and unsafe) 20 year old 14" tires I
had on the car previously.

I've had no rubbing even under spirited driving and did I mention that
they look great!  :-)

Craig
1977 MGB

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+craig.brownlee=oneok.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+craig.brownlee=oneok.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Dodd, Kelvin
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 12:10 PM
To: Blair J. Weiss; MGS
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Plus sized wheels for B

Blair:

This needs to be on the FAQ list, wherever that may be.

You need at least +22mm offset to get the wheel centered in the well. A
bit more is ok, less is not.

15 x 6 will fit up to a 195/60 tire without major rubbing problems with
this offset. You may have minor rubbing on one side if the rear axle has
moved over more than is usual.

185/65 -15 will fit with no problems.

Early SAAB 900 wheels will fit, late will not.




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blair J.
Weiss
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 9:50 AM
> To: 'MGS'
> Subject: [Mgs] Plus sized wheels for B
>
> I am polling the list to see what people are using for 15" wheels. I
am
> about to finish a restoration of a 78 B. The wheels are in such rough
> shape,
> I would rather just put some aluminum wheels on. I did some measuring
and
> I
> am fairly confident I can go 1" wider, as long as the 1" goes
inboard...
> So
> ideally I am looking for 15 X 6 wheels, the local rim place says no
> problem
> except for the bolt circle... 4X110mm? not a popular size, but I seem
to
> remember people fitting datsun 240Z wheels and saab 900 wheels. From
the
> cross reference book I saw, the 240Z wheels are 114mm BC.
>
> Any hints?
>
> Blair
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
_______________________________________________
craig.brownlee at oneok.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Mon Jul 23 14:38:04 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 13:38:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] using remote starter on 69 MGC
Message-ID: <s6a4af61.044@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

An easier way to do it is to jack up one rear wheel, and then rotate
that wheel with car in gear and sparkplugs removed.  I've done this on
several cars and it's a lot easier than using the starter or turning the
engine by hand.
 

>>> "James Schulte" <schultejim at msn.com> 7/23/2007 1:22:38 PM >>>
I want to adjust the valves on my 69 MGC I have a remote starter with
two
leads. Does anyone know how to hook it up so I don't have to manually
move the
crank?
Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
_______________________________________________
rowdon at sonoma-county.org 

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Jul 23 14:56:17 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 16:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Anti-sway bay
Message-ID: <E1ID5B5-0004OR-Bq@delta.look.ca>

I am trying to replace my current rad with an aluminium one.  All is 
undone and free BUT I cannot get the rad out (and presumably the new 
one in) because the bottom outlet fouls the front anti-sway 
bar.  Obviously cutting the bottom outlet off is not a good idea and 
doing same to new rad would be absolutely stupid.  What I want to 
know is can I undo the two brackets holding the anti-sway bar and 
swing it away - or does this not go so easily.    Is the sway bar 
under some sort of tension/compression?  Time is short as the date 
for the British V8 show is looming up !!!

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 23 15:12:47 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 14:12:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Anti-sway bay
In-Reply-To: <E1ID5B5-0004OR-Bq@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C021B@kb1.mossmotors.com>

No tension.


Wrench away.

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net]
On
> Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 1:56 PM
> To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Anti-sway bay
>
> I am trying to replace my current rad with an aluminium one.  All is
> undone and free BUT I cannot get the rad out (and presumably the new
> one in) because the bottom outlet fouls the front anti-sway
> bar.  Obviously cutting the bottom outlet off is not a good idea and
> doing same to new rad would be absolutely stupid.  What I want to
> know is can I undo the two brackets holding the anti-sway bar and
> swing it away - or does this not go so easily.    Is the sway bar
> under some sort of tension/compression?  Time is short as the date
> for the British V8 show is looming up !!!
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
>
> ///
> ///  mgb-v8 at autox.team.net mailing list
> ///  Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net
> ///  Send list postings to mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
> ///  Edit your replies!  If they include this trailer, they will NOT
be
> sent.
> ///

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 23 15:10:48 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 14:10:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] using remote starter on 69 MGC
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-DAV12CB7F71066A6FD86D1F26DBF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C2CA6768.11CEB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Does the C have a separate solenoid? If I recall correctly, the switch
essentially just jumps the two lugs on the starter. Make sure to ground the
distributor lead, and remove the spark plugs.

It seems to me that some hand rotation is still required -- you can't count
on it stopping exactly where you want it. I used to use a remote switch, or
the push button on the solenoid before I converted to a late model starter.
But now I use a wrench on the crank nut -- it's just the most precise
method, and better for your back than pushing the car around (mine is on
dirt -- YMMV).

I just read the post about jacking a rear wheel. My question is, how do you
know when the valve is at the right spot? It seems to me you'd be running
back and forth constantly. Hard to make fine adjustments, unless you have an
assistant.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/23/07 1:22 PM, James Schulte at schultejim at msn.com wrote:

> I want to adjust the valves on my 69 MGC I have a remote starter with two
> leads. Does anyone know how to hook it up so I don't have to manually move the
> crank?
> Jim Schulte
> Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
> Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
> Co-Coordinator MG 2008

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 23 15:25:11 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 14:25:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone here going to ABFM in Bellevue this weekend?
Message-ID: <95508.18764.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm hoping to make this year's event.  Last year I was sidelined
at the last minute when the spider sheared off the differential
casting.  This is supposedly a very atypical mode of failure. :-)
At the time everyone assured me it was an axle.  Anyway, I have
a new differential in place and the weather looks reasonable so
I'm heading to the Puget Sound ABFM this weekend *with* The MG.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/

From bmcspares at aol.com  Mon Jul 23 15:27:45 2007
From: bmcspares at aol.com (bmcspares at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:27:45 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] using remote starter on 69 MGC
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-DAV12CB7F71066A6FD86D1F26DBF70@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY116-DAV12CB7F71066A6FD86D1F26DBF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8C99B8771F9642B-1440-1699@mblk-d17.sysops.aol.com>

Jim,

I find that the remote starter switch spins the engine too fast.? I recommend that you pull all of the spark plugs and put the car in reverse (or 3rd gear) and "bump"?? slowly move the car backwards (forward if in 3rd gear) and the valves will turn over nicely.? Remember that when you subtract the number of the valve (from the front) from 13 and you adjust the corresponding valve thats up... so when number 6 valve (number 3 cylinder) you adjust #7 valve.? Hope this helps. This is the manner in which we adjust them in the shop.

Jon Nyhus
British Motor Classics, Ltd.
Phoenix AZ


-----Original Message-----
From: James Schulte <schultejim at msn.com>
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 1:22 pm
Subject: [Mgs] using remote starter on 69 MGC



I want to adjust the valves on my 69 MGC I have a remote starter with two
leads. Does anyone know how to hook it up so I don't have to manually move the
crank?
Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
_______________________________________________
bmcspares at aol.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs


________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Mon Jul 23 15:40:36 2007
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:40:36 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Our 17th Annual British Car Show
Message-ID: <d52.ed1f3d6.33d67a54@aol.com>

On Sunday July 22nd, 2007 The Central Coast British Car Club held it's 17th  
Annual British Car Show. The featured marque was "Morgan" and we had well over 
 20 beautiful 4 and 3 wheel Morgans on site. What elegant cars they are 
totally  evoking the British "look". 
We had a 1937 SA Saloon and it too was simply gorgeous plus MGT's MGA's,  
MGB's and an MGC-GT that was "killer". lot's of Triumphs and Jags, too. Plus we  
had a contingent of Rolls Royce's and Bentleys that showed up.
All in all the event was a resounding success and our own Kelvin Dodd and  
yours truly were there. During the day about 20 Lotus Elise's (part of  an 
owners club) drove up and parked got out of their cars and checked out  our show. 
So people were feted to another nice array of cars. Oh yeah we even  had an 
Ariel Atom there... Lots of winners and an all day raffle for really nice  prizes 
and a 50-50 ($) cash prize was awarded during the day!
All I can say is if you weren't there well come by next year!
Albert Escalante
Central Coast British Car Club 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 23 15:17:36 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 14:17:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Anti-sway bay
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C021B@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C2CA6900.11CEF%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

To be precise, it is under no tension if the car is on level ground with the
weight distributed evenly on the two front wheels, or with both front wheels
in the air

If you have jacked up one side using the factory jack, you will find it is
loaded.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/23/07 2:12 PM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote:

> No tension.
> 
> 
> Wrench away.
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net]
> On
>> Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
>> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 1:56 PM
>> To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Anti-sway bay
>> 
>> I am trying to replace my current rad with an aluminium one.  All is
>> undone and free BUT I cannot get the rad out (and presumably the new
>> one in) because the bottom outlet fouls the front anti-sway
>> bar.  Obviously cutting the bottom outlet off is not a good idea and
>> doing same to new rad would be absolutely stupid.  What I want to
>> know is can I undo the two brackets holding the anti-sway bar and
>> swing it away - or does this not go so easily.    Is the sway bar
>> under some sort of tension/compression?  Time is short as the date
>> for the British V8 show is looming up !!!
>> 
>> Regards
>> Barrie
>> 
>> Barrie Robinson
>> (705) 721-9060

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Mon Jul 23 16:55:23 2007
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 18:55:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
In-Reply-To: <C2CA5399.11CDB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C2CA5399.11CDB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <2E86BBA5-6709-4DAC-ABCB-E73E3C73A390@trebelhorn.com>

Heh, indeed.

Criticism for calling a citroen weird?  Now I've seen everything.


On Jul 23, 2007, at 3:46 PM, Max Heim wrote:

> Heh heh... I just meant, "weird, as in nobody knows what's in it",  
> although
> presumably somebody does...
>
> on 7/23/07 12:22 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  
> wrote:
>
>> Max,
>>
>> On 7/23/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>> Now that's definitely a different situation: disc brakes, and  
>>> weird <g>
>>> Citroen hydraulic fluid.
>>
>> Well, it has also been used in LBCs: Rolls Royce used it.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Simon

From jkk at adams.net  Mon Jul 23 17:01:44 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 18:01:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] B master cylinder
References: <46A4731E.8076.33FEBBDA@kger.plex.com>
Message-ID: <008c01c7cd7d$706e2060$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith G." <kger at plex.com>


> In trying to bleed my 79 B's brakes, I found nothing was happening at
> the rear brakes.  I checked each connection back toward the master
> cylinder and found the same thing.  Finally, I disconnected the line
> from the master cylinder and found that no fluid comes out of that
> port on the master cylinder.  Well, that would explain it.

I had the same thing happen to me not long ago. I dissasembled the master 
cylinder only to discover the link that connects the front and rear pistons 
was broken and no part is available to repair it. I'm was going to make one, 
but can't really determine the correct length so that's on the back burner 
for now.

Jim 

From jkk at adams.net  Mon Jul 23 17:24:05 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 18:24:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] using remote starter on 69 MGC
References: <C2CA6768.11CEB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001601c7cd80$90368ab0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>



>
> I just read the post about jacking a rear wheel. My question is, how do 
> you
> know when the valve is at the right spot? It seems to me you'd be running
> back and forth constantly. Hard to make fine adjustments, unless you have 
> an
> assistant.
>
> --
>

That's how I do it, but I'm tall enough that I can stretch out, turn the 
wheel with one foot while still being able to watch the valves!

Jim K 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 23 17:30:47 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 16:30:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] B master cylinder [now veering OT but still LBC-related]
In-Reply-To: <008c01c7cd7d$706e2060$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <C2CA8837.11D0A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Marginally related to this topic, I thought I'd share a "unique" braking
solution that a friend of mine encountered.

He had recently purchased a Sunbeam Alpine that had been converted to a GM
FI V6 and 5-speed, with a Ford rear axle and various other upgrades and
modifications. Typically for a drivetrain swap, it was not quite sorted out,
but it was drivable.

He was attempting to fix an asymmetrical stiffness in the steering, when he
found that (among other problems), the tie rod was rubbing against a custom
bracket welded to the frame near the base of the passenger-side firewall.
Investigating the purpose of this unusual excresence (being quite familiar
with stock Alpines), he discovered a highly unorthodox and "original" master
cylinder arrangement.

It turns out that the PO had desired power brakes, but the particular
booster which he wanted to use would not fit in the normal position attached
to the master cylinder, due to the width of the V6 engine. Apparently he had
never heard of remote boosters, even though they were fitted to some
Alpines, so his rather dubious solution was to install a single line,
unboosted master cylinder in the standard location, operated by the brake
pedal, with a hard line running across the firewall to a slave cylinder
located in the passenger footwell, which in turn operated the push rod of a
dual master cylinder with vacuum booster, protruding through a hole cut into
the firewall, and supported by the aforementioned bracket; and this second
master cylinder actually operated the brakes.

Need I add that this PO was a high-end engineering consultant?

Very ingenious, but as my friend pointed out, this system introduced
multiple points of failure, many of which had the potential of introducing
brake fluid into the interior. He is currently engaged in removing the
entire setup, replacing it with a "single" dual MC, unboosted, in the
standard location.

I suppose this should be filed under "DPO Tales"...

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/23/07 4:01 PM, James Kleemeyer at jkk at adams.net wrote:

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith G." <kger at plex.com>
> 
> 
>> In trying to bleed my 79 B's brakes, I found nothing was happening at
>> the rear brakes.  I checked each connection back toward the master
>> cylinder and found the same thing.  Finally, I disconnected the line
>> from the master cylinder and found that no fluid comes out of that
>> port on the master cylinder.  Well, that would explain it.
> 
> I had the same thing happen to me not long ago. I dissasembled the master
> cylinder only to discover the link that connects the front and rear pistons
> was broken and no part is available to repair it. I'm was going to make one,
> but can't really determine the correct length so that's on the back burner
> for now.
> 
> Jim 

From mg.carma at verizon.net  Mon Jul 23 18:26:48 2007
From: mg.carma at verizon.net (Kevin Richards)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 20:26:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] need mga rear shroud
Message-ID: <BE6D976B-142F-4D4E-966B-0084AAC62558@verizon.net>

Hi there mg list folks!
anyone have a good non dented, non rusted out rear shroud for an MGA?

email me offline if you have something I can use, mine is too dented  
and rusted for me to repair.
thanks
kevin

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 23 18:38:45 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:38:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rubber
In-Reply-To: <00b901c7ccc7$44893770$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C028A@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Danny:

I thought it might be worthwhile putting your question in perspective.

All of the British car parts suppliers use multiple sources for their
products. No-one that offers full line service can stick to their own
brand or manufacturer.

You have to look at each of the parts individually, or shop from a
company that vets the parts for you which will increase the cost
significantly. Either way, with rubber, each production batch is going
to be different as it may be a number of years between runs. All it
takes is a slight mistake in the material specification for that batch
and the result is incorrect flexibility or reduced longevity.

There are some rubber products that just can't be made to original
specification at any reasonable price. The MGB top front bow seal is
one. The originals were made from two different compressible types of
rubber. Currently from what I understand no-one is willing to do a
production run of this type of material.

The question of rubber parts from Moss Motors then is a lot harder to
pin down. Any of the parts manufactured for Moss Motors will have a
molding lot number present. This way we can track any reported problems
to the specific batch.

Moss is constantly monitoring customer input on all of their products
and a flare up of complaints is enough to send tech and purchasing
scurrying to figure out what the problem was and how to solve it. In
some cases there are bad parts wandering around the market that have to
be blocked. In other cases the parts available are not as good as you
would like, but until the product is under our own control there isn't
much that can be done as there is only one source.

The one thing that is certain, is that products change. Everyday.

That's the view from my perspective as an employee at Moss. I think you
will find similar situations at all of the suppliers. Each company is
working hard to get parts that fit correctly at a price that allows them
to make a profit and stay in business.


Kelvin Dodd




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dannyvarnado
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 6:18 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGB rubber
>
> A while back someone on the list was complaining about the quality, or
> lack
> there of, of rubber parts sold by MOSS Motors.  Has the quality
improved,
> or
> was it ever a problem at all?  I will be ordering all rubber  (glass,
> windscreen, doors, boot, etc.) and would like to get quality parts the
> first
> time.
> Any comments?
> Danny V.
> '58 MGA daily driver
> '76 MGB V-6 project

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 24 02:12:37 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 09:12:37 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB likes to lay a patch
References: <C2CA2CEC.11C9A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007501c7cdca$6fb6b040$0200a8c0@Three>

Like I say, I don't see how lack of braking effort on rear wheel will 
suddenly cause the other to start applying much more braking effort 
sufficient to cause it to lock, they each have the same pressure, and 
assuming the fronts are working normally and not locking will be the same 
pressure as when both rear brakes are working normally.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> If one rear wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid, that side may be
> contaminated as well as not receiving any braking input, causing the other
> side to possibly pull or lock up.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 24 02:15:37 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 09:15:37 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] using remote starter on 69 MGC
References: <s6a4af61.044@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <00b101c7cdcc$915b7120$0200a8c0@Three>

And 4th gear - the higher the gear the easier the turning and better the 
control.  Unless the car is on very rutted ground it is easier to nudge the 
car forwards.  Just two revolutions of the engine should be enough to do all 
valves.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> An easier way to do it is to jack up one rear wheel, and then rotate
> that wheel with car in gear and sparkplugs removed. 

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 24 06:39:50 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 07:39:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
Message-ID: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Gentlemen, a fellow LBCer has entered an almost-LBC-related endeavor and 
needs our help.  He has entered the Red Bull Soapbox Derby and needs to get 
internet votes for his team to get in the contest on a wild card vote.  Can 
you help?

His plea is below.

Thanks for your help,

Larry Daniels

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Gilroy" <wmgilroy at gmail.com>
To: "Spridget Mailing List" <spridgets at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 12:48 PM
Subject: [Spridgets] NLBC: We need help with our Red Bull Soapbox 
WildcardVoting


Okay, I feel stupid about sending mail like this, but some guys here in
Seattle and myself decided to entered the Red Bull Soapbox derby at the last
minute.  After minutes of planning, a crack team with specially honed skills
was assembled:

Craig: A guy who will do anything thing no matter how stupid
Me: I was asked because I have  a welder and I joined because I heard they
would have beer
Chris:  When we ran out of brainstorming ideas he was the only guy to answer
his phone
Brad: He was the biggest guy we knew and when we said we were going to strap
in into a cart and send him hurtling down a hill, he said, "Uh, I'm in."

Only about 40 cars get to compete in the race, but somehow in order to get
into the contest, we need votes on the website in order to make it as the
wildcard entry.  You're allowed one vote per person per day until Aug. 8th.




I'm asking you go to
http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each day and
vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto anyone who
can help spread the word.



Help make our dreams of creating and racing a giant mousetrap with cheese
down a hill in Fremont Sept. 29th!    Imagine the video: a bunch of drunk
rats with one hurtling to his death or a least an injury.



Thanks,

Bill


PS.  If you have a computer at home and work you can vote twice, help a nerd
out.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 24 08:31:45 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 07:31:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <993996.59934.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Rick, I'd be curious about the weight difference between the stock 16's and the 19's... I know a lot of the issues that come about as a result of 'plus-plus-plus' sizing are due to the crazy weights of the some of these large wheels. A lot of extra weight that suspension engineers don't plan for.... Also, any issues with tramlining?

BTW, I think they look good. ;-)




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From mmgro at renc.igs.net  Tue Jul 24 08:50:16 2007
From: mmgro at renc.igs.net (Marc Hamel)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:50:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] HIF carb jets
Message-ID: <001d01c7ce01$f3ca5080$0a85d1d8@computer>

Hey list,

My 72 B has been running very rough since I swapped in a set of hifs. When I
was adjusting the mixtures I noticed that one of the jets was not moving. Took
the carbs off and soaked the offending one but still getting no movement. Any
ideas to get things moving? Thanks,

                  Marc H

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Jul 24 09:13:01 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:13:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] HIF carb jets
In-Reply-To: <001d01c7ce01$f3ca5080$0a85d1d8@computer>
References: <001d01c7ce01$f3ca5080$0a85d1d8@computer>
Message-ID: <46A616FD.9080607@gmail.com>

Take the bottom off the carb, and remove the jet from the housing. There 
is a set screw attached
to a bi-metal bracket, which is what is moved with the adjustment screw.

Ensure that all are clean and corrosion free.
Make sure the jet moves freely in the body. Then reattach the bracket 
and ensure that it is properly placed
so that the screw movement moves the bracket and in turn the jet.

Paul.


Marc Hamel wrote:
> Hey list,
>
> My 72 B has been running very rough since I swapped in a set of hifs. When I
> was adjusting the mixtures I noticed that one of the jets was not moving. Took
> the carbs off and soaked the offending one but still getting no movement. Any
> ideas to get things moving? Thanks,
>
>                   Marc H
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Jul 24 09:17:56 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 16:17:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] HIF carb jets
References: <001d01c7ce01$f3ca5080$0a85d1d8@computer>
Message-ID: <006c01c7ce06$a70a1550$0200a8c0@Three>

You will need to remove the offending carb and remove its base-plate to 
check the jet is correctly located in the adjusting screw.  Check the jet is 
moving up and down with the mixture screw before refitting.  Unless you have 
recently replaced the O-ring on the base-plate you will need to do so now or 
it will probably leak.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My 72 B has been running very rough since I swapped in a set of hifs. When 
> I
> was adjusting the mixtures I noticed that one of the jets was not moving. 

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Tue Jul 24 10:44:08 2007
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 09:44:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <196430.30331.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F323F@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

Just like clothes makes the man...  Wheels make the car...

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Rick Lindsay
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 12:44 PM
To: Tegan Sinor; Rui Gigante; MGS; ferrari; Anthony Sinor
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC

Hello Folks,

   I took advantage of a massive TireRack sale and
put 19" wheels and tires on my '98 SL500.  Some said
it would look an abomination and others said it would
drive terribly - and yet others said that they have
plus-sized their wheels and they did really well.  I
figure I couldn't hurt the looks much given that it
had 16" CHROME after-market pseudo-Mercedes wheels.

   Here's what I have found; Yes, the car looks a
little 'youngish' for my likes but its not bad.  Of
course, taste is in the mouth of the beholder and we
all know the opinions-simile.  Here's how the car
looks: http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0727.JPG .  You
either kinda like it or you just puked!  Either way,
I'm not there to see (or smell) it.  If you can stand
it, here's a 3/4 front view:
http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0730.JPG .  I now need
to clean up the suspension and brake hardware - now
that its all visible - and perhaps repaint the
calipers back silver.
   The ride height is the same as with the 16" wheels
and correct tires, so there is no distortion there.
The big change is that the sidewall is 1-1/2" shorter:
http://www.aubard.us/SL500/HPIM0729.JPG (not to
mention 20mm wider tread).  It is kinda cool that the
M-B star inserts are the older style with the blue
surround.  My car's interior and top are blue.
   Now let's forget the appearance and talk drive.  In
short, I am very pleased.  To my tastes, the stock
SL500 ride is that of a luxury car.  It is soft but
sure footed.  And we all know that 315hp is a good
thing.  What I find with the shorter sidewalls is a
much stiffer ride.  The car feels more like a sports
car.  Yes, the smooth luxury car feel is still there
in straight and level flight but given a little
'attitude', the car feels the road much better.  I
hate to put it this way but...  You know how a BMW
feels sooooo much better than a Honda or Toyota?
That's the difference I now feel in my SL.
   So the bottom line is that I kinda like the more
aggressive look - if a little youthful - and I can
deal with that easily for the improved feel of the
road.
   I am pleased - whatever that says about me. :-)

Regards,

Rick
'98 M-B SL500
other stuff

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jul 24 10:51:14 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 09:51:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Caliper installed
In-Reply-To: <010f01c7cc16$1d2d66d0$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C031C@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Warning: commercial content

I was contacted by a CNC shop a couple of months ago. The shop owner
owned an MGB and made up a piston installation tool for his own use. The
tool is a copy of the factory 18G590 with the piston adapter exactly
machined to accept the oil seal retainer ring.  He was able to get a
very sweet deal on a nice clamp assembly and I agreed to buy a bunch of
them and put them on the shelf. With the adapter reversed, it can be
used to safely retract the piston when changing brake pads. No more
levers and screwdrivers.

Moss part number is 386-280 retail $29.95

I can send a picture to anyone interested.





Kelvin Dodd
Moss Motors


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > How did you install the metal ring seal around the piston?
> >
> > Mine keep bending and warping!!
> >
> > JR
> > Birmingham, AL

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 24 11:20:54 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:20:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <993996.59934.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C2CB8306.11D53%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That's a good point, But I don't think it's an issue with the slim-spoked,
forged wheels, so much as with the wildly-styled chrome rims you see on
Escalades and such.

I remember when Vintage Motorsport did a tire comparison on a Volvo sedan,
the "plus 2" alloy wheel and tire combo outweighed the stock steel rims and
skinny tires by 31 lbs PER WHEEL! Tha's a lot of rotating unsprung weight...

But, yes, when I see some really outrageous combo on a purported performance
vehicle, I feel like asking them, "What weighs less: aluminum, rubber, or
air?".




on 7/24/07 7:31 AM, Dan DiBiase at d_dibiase at yahoo.com wrote:

> Rick, I'd be curious about the weight difference between the stock 16's and
> the 19's... I know a lot of the issues that come about as a result of
> 'plus-plus-plus' sizing are due to the crazy weights of the some of these
> large wheels. A lot of extra weight that suspension engineers don't plan
> for.... Also, any issues with tramlining?
> 
> BTW, I think they look good. ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jul 24 11:44:25 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:44:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <C2CB8306.11D53%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C033D@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Max:

You do have a point. There is usually a trade off when going to + size
wheels unless you also go with exotic light weight (and delicate)
alloys.

If you check any of the serious ricky racer handling forums there are
discussions about the best combination of size and weight for a given
application.

On my daily driver, the recommended upgrade was only +1 from 14" to 15"
since the car was very sensitive to unsprung weight and rotational mass.
I went to +2 because used OE wheels from a different vehicle were
available in that size. I also chose to go up in tire diameter slightly.
Both choices reduced the acceleration of the vehicle, but the wheel
cost, improved cruising economy and cheaper tire size won out.

Getting back to MG content. Going to a +1 wheel will typically increase
unsprung weight and rotational mass, but it does give you a much better
choice of performance rubber which along with (IMHO) better looks.

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 10:21 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
>
> That's a good point, But I don't think it's an issue with the
slim-spoked,
> forged wheels, so much as with the wildly-styled chrome rims you see
on
> Escalades and such.
>
> I remember when Vintage Motorsport did a tire comparison on a Volvo
sedan,
> the "plus 2" alloy wheel and tire combo outweighed the stock steel
rims
> and
> skinny tires by 31 lbs PER WHEEL! Tha's a lot of rotating unsprung
> weight...
>
> But, yes, when I see some really outrageous combo on a purported
> performance
> vehicle, I feel like asking them, "What weighs less: aluminum, rubber,
or
> air?".

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 24 11:57:29 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:57:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C033D@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <57148.87367.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My Ferrari 308GTB came with 14" wheels and although
period-correct, they are almost impossible to buy
quality rubber for - at least in the widths I need. 
To address that issue I upgraded from the 14" stock
wheels to stock Ferrari 328 wheels, which are 16". 
They're magnesium-aluminum alloy and are stock on the
328s WITHOUT a change in the basic 3x8 suspension. 
Good rubber is available in that size.
http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari/SideLo1.jpg

rick
--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> Max:
> 
> You do have a point. There is usually a trade off
> when going to + size
> wheels unless you also go with exotic light weight
> (and delicate)
> alloys.
> 
> If you check any of the serious ricky racer handling
> forums there are
> discussions about the best combination of size and
> weight for a given
> application.
> 
> On my daily driver, the recommended upgrade was only
> +1 from 14" to 15"
> since the car was very sensitive to unsprung weight
> and rotational mass.
> I went to +2 because used OE wheels from a different
> vehicle were
> available in that size. I also chose to go up in
> tire diameter slightly.
> Both choices reduced the acceleration of the
> vehicle, but the wheel
> cost, improved cruising economy and cheaper tire
> size won out.
> 
> Getting back to MG content. Going to a +1 wheel will
> typically increase
> unsprung weight and rotational mass, but it does
> give you a much better
> choice of performance rubber which along with (IMHO)
> better looks.
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-
> > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 10:21 AM
> > To: MG List
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC,
> NFC
> >
> > That's a good point, But I don't think it's an
> issue with the
> slim-spoked,
> > forged wheels, so much as with the wildly-styled
> chrome rims you see
> on
> > Escalades and such.
> >
> > I remember when Vintage Motorsport did a tire
> comparison on a Volvo
> sedan,
> > the "plus 2" alloy wheel and tire combo outweighed
> the stock steel
> rims
> > and
> > skinny tires by 31 lbs PER WHEEL! Tha's a lot of
> rotating unsprung
> > weight...
> >
> > But, yes, when I see some really outrageous combo
> on a purported
> > performance
> > vehicle, I feel like asking them, "What weighs
> less: aluminum, rubber,
> or
> > air?".
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jul 24 12:18:16 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:18:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <57148.87367.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C035E@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Rick:

A good example.

On my TR8 since 205/60 13" tires are almost impossible to get anymore,
the hot ticket is to move to 15" wheels and the 205/50 15" tire.

The MGB doesn't have as much of a problem as it was just at the
beginning the movement to smaller and smaller wheel sizes. During the
70s the 13" wheel became really popular, then times and tire technology
changed and we are getting bigger and bigger. We are now up to the
original MG TC wheel diameter.       : )

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Lindsay [mailto:rolindsay at yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; MGS
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
>
> My Ferrari 308GTB came with 14" wheels and although
> period-correct, they are almost impossible to buy
> quality rubber for - at least in the widths I need.
> To address that issue I upgraded from the 14" stock
> wheels to stock Ferrari 328 wheels, which are 16".
> They're magnesium-aluminum alloy and are stock on the
> 328s WITHOUT a change in the basic 3x8 suspension.
> Good rubber is available in that size.
> http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari/SideLo1.jpg
>
> rick

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 24 12:30:03 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 11:30:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC, NFC
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C035E@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <14930.33044.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I believe the quote is, "All thing old are new again."

rick
--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> Rick:
> 
> A good example.
> 
> On my TR8 since 205/60 13" tires are almost
> impossible to get anymore,
> the hot ticket is to move to 15" wheels and the
> 205/50 15" tire. 
> 
> The MGB doesn't have as much of a problem as it was
> just at the
> beginning the movement to smaller and smaller wheel
> sizes. During the
> 70s the 13" wheel became really popular, then times
> and tire technology
> changed and we are getting bigger and bigger. We are
> now up to the
> original MG TC wheel diameter.       : )
> 
> Kelvin Dodd 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rick Lindsay [mailto:rolindsay at yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 10:57 AM
> > To: Dodd, Kelvin; MGS
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] A change to my SL500 - NMGC,
> NFC
> > 
> > My Ferrari 308GTB came with 14" wheels and
> although
> > period-correct, they are almost impossible to buy
> > quality rubber for - at least in the widths I
> need.
> > To address that issue I upgraded from the 14"
> stock
> > wheels to stock Ferrari 328 wheels, which are 16".
> > They're magnesium-aluminum alloy and are stock on
> the
> > 328s WITHOUT a change in the basic 3x8 suspension.
> > Good rubber is available in that size.
> > http://www.aubard.us/Ferrari/SideLo1.jpg
> > 
> > rick

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Jul 24 14:25:09 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:25:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Caliper installed
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C031C@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C031C@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <46A66025.5040103@gmail.com>

And here I sit with a $50 Moss GC... hmm.

I'd like the picture please, Kelvin.

Paul.


Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> Warning: commercial content
>
> I was contacted by a CNC shop a couple of months ago. The shop owner
> owned an MGB and made up a piston installation tool for his own use. The
> tool is a copy of the factory 18G590 with the piston adapter exactly
> machined to accept the oil seal retainer ring.  He was able to get a
> very sweet deal on a nice clamp assembly and I agreed to buy a bunch of
> them and put them on the shelf. With the adapter reversed, it can be
> used to safely retract the piston when changing brake pads. No more
> levers and screwdrivers.
>
> Moss part number is 386-280 retail $29.95
>
> I can send a picture to anyone interested.
>
>
>
>
>
> Kelvin Dodd
> Moss Motors
>
>
>   
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>     
>>> How did you install the metal ring seal around the piston?
>>>
>>> Mine keep bending and warping!!
>>>
>>> JR
>>> Birmingham, AL
>>>       
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From peter at nosimport.com  Tue Jul 24 14:38:16 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:38:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA TD/F rear shocks
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070724153357.031849b8@mailbag.com>

Would someone please confirm or deny my suspicion and recollection on 
the following.

A TD or TF rear Armstrong rear shock is mounted on the outside, or 
wheel side of the chassis before the axle

-and-

An MGA rear shock is mounted on the inside or driveshaft side of the 
frame also before the axle.


Thank you

Peter C.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jul 24 15:33:47 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 14:33:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGA TD/F rear shocks
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20070724153357.031849b8@mailbag.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0411@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Confirmed.

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter C
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:38 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGA TD/F rear shocks
>
> Would someone please confirm or deny my suspicion and recollection on
> the following.
>
> A TD or TF rear Armstrong rear shock is mounted on the outside, or
> wheel side of the chassis before the axle
>
> -and-
>
> An MGA rear shock is mounted on the inside or driveshaft side of the
> frame also before the axle.
>
>
> Thank you
>
> Peter C.
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Jul 25 07:44:45 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 07:44:45 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Larry,

Make sure you include the URL each time you email in to the list. It's a
reminder for those of us who may not have saved it. Needless to say, it
is  one vote per day which technically means one vote per day per IP
address and I have access to several IPs. I see that you have pulled
into the lead but the second place team is still close behind.


http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx


David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 25 08:08:56 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 09:08:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <013501c7cec5$57589210$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Easier yet David (and being from Chjicago area I CAN say & advocate), after
Vote is placed and while reading the bar chart Click on "Tools" and select
"Internet Options" The click on "Delete Cookies" When second window pops-up
select "OK".  Couple seconds and click on "OK" the just refresh your browser
window and Vote AGAIN!!!

Nite before last while up for extreme pain & waiting for Vicodin to kick in I
brougth the from 34.6% to 40.1% (which of course changed back as other Team
votes came in).

Anonici

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Jul 25 12:10:04 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:10:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <013501c7cec5$57589210$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<013501c7cec5$57589210$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <46A791FC.4000109@gmail.com>

This would have to come from Chicago, wouldn't it. :-)

WJHS1960 wrote:
> Easier yet David (and being from Chjicago area I CAN say & advocate), after
> Vote is placed and while reading the bar chart Click on "Tools" and select
> "Internet Options" The click on "Delete Cookies" When second window pops-up
> select "OK".  Couple seconds and click on "OK" the just refresh your browser
> window and Vote AGAIN!!!
>
> Nite before last while up for extreme pain & waiting for Vicodin to kick in I
> brougth the from 34.6% to 40.1% (which of course changed back as other Team
> votes came in).
>
> Anonici
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Jul 25 14:40:33 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:40:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings. edu>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>

Have I missed something?  Which team are we supporting ????

At 09:44 AM 7/25/2007, Councill, David wrote:
>Larry,
>
>Make sure you include the URL each time you email in to the list. It's a
>reminder for those of us who may not have saved it. Needless to say, it
>is  one vote per day which technically means one vote per day per IP
>address and I have access to several IPs. I see that you have pulled
>into the lead but the second place team is still close behind.
>
>
>http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>
>
>David Councill
>67 BGT
>72 B
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From elco506 at austin.rr.com  Wed Jul 25 15:44:36 2007
From: elco506 at austin.rr.com (Brian Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:44:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
Message-ID: <001101c7cf05$01a3da10$6501a8c0@Brian>

Which team are we supporting ????

 

 

The piece of cheese!

 

Brian Lundgren

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 25 15:45:24 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 16:45:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
To: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>; "Larry Daniels" 
<ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>; <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby



Have I missed something?  Which team are we supporting ????

=============================

Barrie, we are supporting Bill Gilroy, a fellow LBCer, and Team Death Trap.

>From his original email:


I'm asking you go to
http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each day and
vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto anyone who
can help spread the word.


Click on Death Trap and enter the code on the left side of the page to vote. 
You can vote every day.


Keep up the good work, guys.

Larry Daniels

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 25 16:46:49 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 15:46:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Midget Mk III gearbox
Message-ID: <C2CD20E9.11DFF%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

A friend reports from the opposite coast that her 1967 Midget is stuck in
1st gear. Apparently she was in bumper-to-bumper traffic in Manhattan,
working the gearbox constantly (1st, neutral, 1st), when it "froze" in 1st
gear (her term).

Offhand I don't recall much about this gearbox. Does it have 1st gear
synchro? Does it have a shifter extension?

My initial suspicion was that the clutch hydraulics had failed, but I don't
think that would keep you from slipping it into neutral.

In general, this vehicle was in "very good driver" condition a dozen years
ago, when it shipped out to the east coast. Since then it has been driven
very irregularly. Engine was rebuilt (by unknown to me NY party) 4 or 5
years ago. Brake hydraulics were replaced 3 or 4 years ago. Clutch was
replaced (by me) maybe 17 or 18 years ago -- I don't know if this was
addressed while the motor was out. Transmission in all likelhood has never
been touched (owner never looks under hood except when it breaks).

Any suggestions, comments or advice?

TIA


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 25 18:37:17 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 19:37:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>
	<0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <007501c7cf1e$06587f20$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

just voted.  we are ahead by a slim margin!

>


>
> Have I missed something?  Which team are we supporting ????
>
> =============================
>
> Barrie, we are supporting Bill Gilroy, a fellow LBCer, and Team Death 
> Trap.
>
>>From his original email:
>
>
> I'm asking you go to
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each day and
> vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto anyone who
> can help spread the word.
>
> /mgs 

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 25 19:40:57 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:40:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca><0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<007501c7cf1e$06587f20$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <01bf01c7cf26$03d64770$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<just voted.  we are ahead by a slim margin!>>

BUT Oliver, how MANY times??????

From Rabeys at aol.com  Wed Jul 25 23:36:25 2007
From: Rabeys at aol.com (Rabeys at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 01:36:25 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Midget Mk III gearbox
Message-ID: <c19.1b38b2e3.33d98cd9@aol.com>

i have had that happen to me also in my 72 Midget.  i was told it is  
non-syncro so the advice was use 1st as little as possible and use it to barely  get 
it rolling.  my brother-in-law wanted to drive my car and i foolishly  said 
yes.  live and learn.  i told him that you have to be at a  complete stop, not 
even rolling a little tiny bit when you use first.   well, he tried down 
shifting into first and kept forcing it as i sat in the  passenger seat screaming 
no!  must've told that idiot 6 different ways not  to do that.  about a week 
later, my tranny got stuck in first.
 
my mechanic showed me the gears for first and reverse and showed me how  
small they are and why you need to be at a complete stop etc etc.    sounds like 
she's looking at a new tranny :(   that was my experience  for what it is 
worth...stephanie



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Jul 26 01:54:02 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:54:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Midget Mk III gearbox
References: <C2CD20E9.11DFF%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007701c7cf5a$4c2751c0$0200a8c0@Three>

FWIW if the engine is running, and the clutch down but dragging a bit, it 
could well be difficult to get it out of first (or any other gear), but with 
the engine stopped and clutch down it should be easy, clutch dragging or no. 
But if the clutch is dragging too much, or not disengaging at all, then the 
car will either be moving forwards or the engine stalled!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My initial suspicion was that the clutch hydraulics had failed, but I 
> don't
> think that would keep you from slipping it into neutral.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Thu Jul 26 03:10:56 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 18:40:56 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>
	<0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <3D45D1A4-B48D-46D0-AF84-FB8C1FA52BE8@erickson.on.net>

> I'm asking you go to
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each  
> day and
> vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto  
> anyone who
> can help spread the word.
>
>

Did it - nudged it to 31.1%




Eric

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Thu Jul 26 10:52:57 2007
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 09:52:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <007701c7cf5a$4c2751c0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <C2CD20E9.11DFF%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<007701c7cf5a$4c2751c0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F3242@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

This is kind of a test.  Trying to finger out how to post from this mail
acct.  My replies haven't been going to the list, just the sender.  Any
way..  A little LBC content.  I have a set (4) of Dayton wire wheels Id
like to sell.  Nearly new. Painted 14X5 with Michelin Rain force
175/70hr14 I think.  Will verify size when I get home.  Decent tread.
Wheels are true, tight and balanced.  The wheels and tires are in
Cupertino CA.

Dennis Cox
67 MGB

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Thu Jul 26 11:10:30 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 13:10:30 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
References: <C2CD20E9.11DFF%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><007701c7cf5a$4c2751c0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F3242@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>
Message-ID: <004d01c7cfa7$def7d360$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Dennis

To reply to the list instead of just to the sender hit "reply all" instead 
of just "reply" and then just remove the sender's address from your "to" 
line - this is using Outlook Express.

Rick
Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG 
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature 
Coast English Car Club
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "COX, DENNIS" <dennis_cox at appsig.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 12:52
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here


> This is kind of a test.  Trying to finger out how to post from this mail
> acct.  My replies haven't been going to the list, just the sender.  Any
> way..Snip snip>
> Dennis Cox
> 67 MGB

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 26 11:30:07 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 10:30:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <004d01c7cfa7$def7d360$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <C2CE282F.11E60%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Really? That's odd. Using Entourage I only have to hit "reply", and it goes
to the list.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/26/07 10:10 AM, Rick Brown at mgrick at mgcars.org.uk wrote:

> Dennis
> 
> To reply to the list instead of just to the sender hit "reply all" instead
> of just "reply" and then just remove the sender's address from your "to"
> line - this is using Outlook Express.
> 
> Rick
> Webmaster for:
> ___________________________________________________________
>   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
>   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
> Registers
>   http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
> Coast English Car Club
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "COX, DENNIS" <dennis_cox at appsig.com>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 12:52
> Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
> 
> 
>> This is kind of a test.  Trying to finger out how to post from this mail
>> acct.  My replies haven't been going to the list, just the sender.  Any
>> way..Snip snip>
>> Dennis Cox
>> 67 MGB

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 26 11:37:45 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 10:37:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F3242@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>
Message-ID: <C2CE29F9.11E62%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Hi Dennis

>From a mechanical standpoint my B could really use those, but from an
investment standpoint it would be putting lipstick on a pig. So I'm afraid
I'd only be interested if you were letting them go really really cheap. So
I'll stand aside. Good luck.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/26/07 9:52 AM, COX, DENNIS at dennis_cox at appsig.com wrote:

> This is kind of a test.  Trying to finger out how to post from this mail
> acct.  My replies haven't been going to the list, just the sender.  Any
> way..  A little LBC content.  I have a set (4) of Dayton wire wheels Id
> like to sell.  Nearly new. Painted 14X5 with Michelin Rain force
> 175/70hr14 I think.  Will verify size when I get home.  Decent tread.
> Wheels are true, tight and balanced.  The wheels and tires are in
> Cupertino CA.
> 
> Dennis Cox
> 67 MGB

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Jul 26 13:21:01 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 15:21:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <C2CE282F.11E60%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <004d01c7cfa7$def7d360$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
	<C2CE282F.11E60%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1IE8uL-0003yM-5a@delta.look.ca>

Max

That is not good enough.  You have to be able to chose between 
blasting everyone on the list or keeping traffic down to 
'reasonable'.  I hate when somebody copies me when I don't need to be 
!!!!!  Try Eudora it has some really good points and is brilliantly portable !!

At 01:30 PM 7/26/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>Really? That's odd. Using Entourage I only have to hit "reply", and it goes
>to the list.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>
>on 7/26/07 10:10 AM, Rick Brown at mgrick at mgcars.org.uk wrote:
>
> > Dennis
> >
> > To reply to the list instead of just to the sender hit "reply all" instead
> > of just "reply" and then just remove the sender's address from your "to"
> > line - this is using Outlook Express.
> >
> > Rick
> > Webmaster for:
> > ___________________________________________________________
> >   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
> >   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
> > Registers
> >   http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
> > Coast English Car Club
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "COX, DENNIS" <dennis_cox at appsig.com>
> > To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 12:52
> > Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
> >
> >
> >> This is kind of a test.  Trying to finger out how to post from this mail
> >> acct.  My replies haven't been going to the list, just the sender.  Any
> >> way..Snip snip>
> >> Dennis Cox
> >> 67 MGB
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 26 13:46:55 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 12:46:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <E1IE8uL-0003yM-5a@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <353192.75193.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Most e-mail programs can be set up as one or the other for the default, and then you can always change it on an e-mail-by-e-mail basis. Not a big deal, really.



Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote: Max

That is not good enough.  You have to be able to chose between 
blasting everyone on the list or keeping traffic down to 
'reasonable'.  I hate when somebody copies me when I don't need to be 
!!!!!  Try Eudora it has some really good points and is brilliantly portable !!

At 01:30 PM 7/26/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>Really? That's odd. Using Entourage I only have to hit "reply", and it goes
>to the list.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>
>on 7/26/07 10:10 AM, Rick Brown at mgrick at mgcars.org.uk wrote:
>
> > Dennis
> >
> > To reply to the list instead of just to the sender hit "reply all" instead
> > of just "reply" and then just remove the sender's address from your "to"
> > line - this is using Outlook Express.
> >
> > Rick
> > Webmaster for:
> > ___________________________________________________________
> >   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
> >   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
> > Registers
> >   http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
> > Coast English Car Club
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "COX, DENNIS" 
> > To: "MG List" 
> > Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 12:52
> > Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
> >
> >
> >> This is kind of a test.  Trying to finger out how to post from this mail
> >> acct.  My replies haven't been going to the list, just the sender.  Any
> >> way..Snip snip>
> >> Dennis Cox
> >> 67 MGB
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  
_______________________________________________
d_dibiase at yahoo.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Jul 26 14:29:47 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:29:47 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
Message-ID: <c9b.14cc031e.33da5e3b@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/26/2007 11:46:46 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes:

it would  be putting lipstick on a pig


I'll thank you to not bring my ex wife into this forum for  discussion...

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 26 18:06:56 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 17:06:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <E1IE8uL-0003yM-5a@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C2CE8530.11E95%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Excuse me?

Isn't that exactly what I want to do, when I reply to a list posting?

If I wanted to just reply to the sender privately, that is easy enough to
do. But the default reply to a mailing list should be the maiing list... It
only makes sense, and it is more convenient.

Maybe you have different ideas, but that is how I think it should work.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/26/07 12:21 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> 
> Max
> 
> That is not good enough.  You have to be able to chose between
> blasting everyone on the list or keeping traffic down to
> 'reasonable'.  I hate when somebody copies me when I don't need to be
> !!!!!  Try Eudora it has some really good points and is brilliantly portable
> !!
> 
> At 01:30 PM 7/26/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>> Really? That's odd. Using Entourage I only have to hit "reply", and it goes
>> to the list.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> on 7/26/07 10:10 AM, Rick Brown at mgrick at mgcars.org.uk wrote:
>> 
>>> Dennis
>>> 
>>> To reply to the list instead of just to the sender hit "reply all" instead
>>> of just "reply" and then just remove the sender's address from your "to"
>>> line - this is using Outlook Express.
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> Webmaster for:
>>> ___________________________________________________________
>>>   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
>>>   http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
>>> Registers
>>>   http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
>>> Coast English Car Club
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "COX, DENNIS" <dennis_cox at appsig.com>
>>> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 12:52
>>> Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> This is kind of a test.  Trying to finger out how to post from this mail
>>>> acct.  My replies haven't been going to the list, just the sender.  Any
>>>> way..Snip snip>
>>>> Dennis Cox
>>>> 67 MGB
>> _______________________________________________
>> barrie at look.ca
>> 
>> Edit your replies
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> Regards
> Barrie
> 
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 26 20:50:34 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 21:50:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
References: <C2CE8530.11E95%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <01a301c7cff8$e79529e0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Max:

YOU are trying to tell programmers...

<<It only makes sense, and it is more convenient.>>

WHAT might be considered COMMON SENSE and EASY???

LMAO!!!

We ALL KNOW that "they" "know" better than us "users/customers"!!!!

Where in the world would you even BEGIN to think that WE would be listened
to!!!

As most of the Left Coast needs, RE-HAB!!!!  Just ask Lohan!!!!

Tut, tut!!!

LOL

Anon

From sammler at bellsouth.net  Fri Jul 27 05:36:14 2007
From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler")
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:36:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] email client Thunderbird - was -Re: Lets see if I can post
 here
In-Reply-To: <E1IE8uL-0003yM-5a@delta.look.ca>
References: <004d01c7cfa7$def7d360$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
	<C2CE282F.11E60%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1IE8uL-0003yM-5a@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <46A9D8AE.5000902@bellsouth.net>

The email client from Mozilla is called Thunderbird 
<http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/thunderbird/> and it's free, easy to use 
and has much to offer.

The "reply all" button would be the correct choice AND it give you the 
opportunity to be selective.  If you really want it to go only to the 
list then delete the other address(es).  If you want to keep it 
"personal" delete the address for mgs at autox.team.net and it will go only 
to the other individual(s).

When choosing the "reply all" button this message was started with 3 
addressees , Barry, Max and the list.  No offense to Barry and Max, but 
I deleted your names and now it's going only to the list. ;-)

You could keep the traffic down by deleting most of the message - 
leaving enough to allow a new reader to see the key part; changing the 
subject when things are going astray is also helpful.


>>>
>>> To reply to the list instead of just to the sender hit "reply all" instead
>>> of just "reply" and then just remove the sender's address from your "to"
>>> line - this is using Outlook Express.

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Fri Jul 27 07:45:55 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:45:55 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <01a301c7cff8$e79529e0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <C2CE8530.11E95%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<01a301c7cff8$e79529e0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A53@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

This "reply" function is a matter of how the list is set up and nothing
more. Although I maintain a listserv server, the other type lists
(mailman, majordomo, etc) are likely the same. You can configure the
list email "reply to" address to go back to the list or back to the
original sender. So its not really the client email program whether its
Eudora, Thunderbird, or Outlook at play here but rather a server
setting.

Generally lists use the "reply to" to go back to the sender in order to
reduce list traffic which is critical for high traffic lists (this one
would not be classified as such though).

If you do want to reply to the list, use the universal "reply to all"
function and trim off the individual users as they in most cases do not
want or need the second email. Except if the user is on the digest mode
and they want a quicker response. The digest mode typically just sends
out one daily email with all the list emails or on a high flow email
day, it sends out the digest once a certain threshold of email is hit.
If you do think you are getting too many separate emails from this list
or have a slower connection, I would recommend you try the digest mode.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of WJHS1960
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 8:51 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here

Max:

YOU are trying to tell programmers...

<<It only makes sense, and it is more convenient.>>

WHAT might be considered COMMON SENSE and EASY???

LMAO!!!

We ALL KNOW that "they" "know" better than us "users/customers"!!!!

Where in the world would you even BEGIN to think that WE would be
listened
to!!!

As most of the Left Coast needs, RE-HAB!!!!  Just ask Lohan!!!!

Tut, tut!!!

LOL

Anon

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Jul 27 09:08:52 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 00:38:52 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Lets see if I can post here
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A53@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <C2CE8530.11E95%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<01a301c7cff8$e79529e0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A53@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <805B68D8-C850-4F78-8468-AB28C1C8E6A0@erickson.on.net>

On 27/07/2007, at 11:15 PM, Councill, David wrote:

> This "reply" function is a matter of how the list is set up and  
> nothing
> more.

Setting the list to REPLY just to the sender (and REPLY ALL to the  
list, yes, and the sender) has the massive advantage of minimising  
those OOOPS messages where people have sent responses they didn't  
want everyone to see - and some of those can be really, really  
embarrassing (surely we have all done it at least once).

Of course you can't 100% protect everyone from themselves but this  
way the chances are vastly reduced.

The worst that can happen is you have to re-send a message that you  
sent just the author of the post you were responding to but wanted it  
to go to the list.  This is much better than really wishing you could  
suck that errant post back again!


My 3c (the exchange rate is great at the moment).


Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From guinness at stclegal.com  Fri Jul 27 10:37:47 2007
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 11:37:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge
Message-ID: <46AA1F5B.7010008@stclegal.com>

I need to rebuild a Jaeger Oil/Water Dual Gauge for my MGA.  I have 
reviewed Barney Gaylord's web page on fixing the temperature capillary.  
However, I can't find any info on cosmetic restoration to the dial face 
or hands, or how to get to the inside guts. Does anyone sell the dial 
faces for these (or any) MGA gauges?  I am a visual person, so it you 
know of any resources out there that I can use to educate me on how to 
proceed, I would appreciate it.  Thanks.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 27 11:03:59 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:03:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] hood insulation
References: <7AD55BFB-7437-4198-808A-E4C7159A2B75@verizon.net>
	<009c01c7c6c6$185757b0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <001d01c7d070$21768b00$da01010a@Garage.local>

my 73 roadster probably lost its hood insulation a long time ago.

I'd like to first clean up that area (its ugly!) and then i've got some 
dynamat that i'd like to put in, and then paint it with truck be liner or 
something like to cover the aluminum look.

my question: how difficult is it to reinstall the hood?  i'm thinking it 
will be much easier to remove it to work on. 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Fri Jul 27 11:25:18 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 11:25:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] hood insulation
In-Reply-To: <001d01c7d070$21768b00$da01010a@Garage.local>
References: <7AD55BFB-7437-4198-808A-E4C7159A2B75@verizon.net><009c01c7c6c6$185757b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<001d01c7d070$21768b00$da01010a@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A5C@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Getting the hood re-aligned can be a problem after you remove it. It is
not a big problem but it can be time consuming to get it centered so
that it looks correct and opens/shuts easily. Someone suggested, maybe
on this list, to drill two separate 1/8" holes into each bracket. The
idea being that you can then center those holes using pins or small
screws to get a perfect match to the alignment and then bolt the
brackets back on. I hope this makes sense but if you look at the area
where you remove the bolts holding the hood on you should see what I
mean. I haven't done it yet but will next time I have to remove the
hood.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----

my 73 roadster probably lost its hood insulation a long time ago.

I'd like to first clean up that area (its ugly!) and then i've got some
dynamat that i'd like to put in, and then paint it with truck be liner
or
something like to cover the aluminum look.

my question: how difficult is it to reinstall the hood?  i'm thinking it

will be much easier to remove it to work on.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Jul 27 11:53:21 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 10:53:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] hood insulation
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A5C@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0885@kb1.mossmotors.com>

David:

The original bonnets and hinges were drilled by Pressed Steel to allow
the bonnets to be removed and re-installed on the MG production line.

You should be able to use the original holes in the hinges and drill the
bonnet if it has been replaced or re-aligned.

Kelvin Dodd






> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Councill,
David
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 10:25 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] hood insulation
>
> Getting the hood re-aligned can be a problem after you remove it. It
is
> not a big problem but it can be time consuming to get it centered so
> that it looks correct and opens/shuts easily. Someone suggested, maybe
> on this list, to drill two separate 1/8" holes into each bracket. The
> idea being that you can then center those holes using pins or small
> screws to get a perfect match to the alignment and then bolt the
> brackets back on. I hope this makes sense but if you look at the area
> where you remove the bolts holding the hood on you should see what I
> mean. I haven't done it yet but will next time I have to remove the
> hood.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B

From frankk at intap.net  Fri Jul 27 12:44:29 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 14:44:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge
References: <46AA1F5B.7010008@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c7d07e$2c1922d0$408a0fce@D3N5Y331>

Robert: I have an MGA and a 1964 and both have Jaeger gauges. Under the face 
they are identical to the Smiths gauges. I save and buy broken Jaeger gauges 
at swap meets, Carlisle, etc. just to acquire the face.Then I use the Jaeger 
face on  functioning Smiths gauge. What gauge do you need? I may have a 
non-working Jaeger gauge with a good face.
Frank Krajewski

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 12:37 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge


>I need to rebuild a Jaeger Oil/Water Dual Gauge for my MGA.  I have
> reviewed Barney Gaylord's web page on fixing the temperature capillary.
> However, I can't find any info on cosmetic restoration to the dial face
> or hands, or how to get to the inside guts. Does anyone sell the dial
> faces for these (or any) MGA gauges?  I am a visual person, so it you
> know of any resources out there that I can use to educate me on how to
> proceed, I would appreciate it.  Thanks.
> -- 
> Robert Guinness
> _______________________________________________

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Fri Jul 27 13:41:34 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:41:34 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] hood insulation
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0885@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A5C@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0885@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A61@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

What I meant to say is to drill a couple of alignment holes through the
hinge and the hood bracket that attaches the hinge. The original (bolt)
holes are somewhat elongated to allow the position of the hood to be
adjusted in/out and up/down. The small 1/8" holes allow the exact
position to be marked. However, I have also heard people have marked the
hinge position with white-out or similar to allow the position to be
quickly found but I like the idea of using small holes/pins to mark the
position prior to bolting the hood to the hinges.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Dodd, Kelvin [mailto:doddk at mossmotors.com]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 11:53 AM
To: Councill, David; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Mgs] hood insulation

David:

The original bonnets and hinges were drilled by Pressed Steel to allow
the bonnets to be removed and re-installed on the MG production line.

You should be able to use the original holes in the hinges and drill the
bonnet if it has been replaced or re-aligned.

Kelvin Dodd






> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Councill,
David
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 10:25 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] hood insulation
>
> Getting the hood re-aligned can be a problem after you remove it. It
is
> not a big problem but it can be time consuming to get it centered so
> that it looks correct and opens/shuts easily. Someone suggested, maybe
> on this list, to drill two separate 1/8" holes into each bracket. The
> idea being that you can then center those holes using pins or small
> screws to get a perfect match to the alignment and then bolt the
> brackets back on. I hope this makes sense but if you look at the area
> where you remove the bolts holding the hood on you should see what I
> mean. I haven't done it yet but will next time I have to remove the
> hood.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Jul 27 13:49:08 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:49:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] hood insulation
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A61@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C08CB@kb1.mossmotors.com>

David:

We are on the same page. Just not meeting in the middle. The original
hinges had these little 1/8" alignment holes drilled by Pressed Steel
when the production line design required the bonnets to be removed to
install the powertrain. A lot of MG owners don't realize that the
bodyshells were delivered fully assembled to the MG factory, with a lot
of the trim already installed too.

If you get a chance, Ken Smith did a nice job of documenting the
assembly process in his book "Aspects of Abingdon". It's an interesting
read.


Kelvin


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Councill, David [mailto:dcouncill at msubillings.edu]
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 12:42 PM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Mgs] hood insulation
>
> What I meant to say is to drill a couple of alignment holes through
the
> hinge and the hood bracket that attaches the hinge. The original
(bolt)
> holes are somewhat elongated to allow the position of the hood to be
> adjusted in/out and up/down. The small 1/8" holes allow the exact
> position to be marked. However, I have also heard people have marked
the
> hinge position with white-out or similar to allow the position to be
> quickly found but I like the idea of using small holes/pins to mark
the
> position prior to bolting the hood to the hinges.
>
> David
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dodd, Kelvin [mailto:doddk at mossmotors.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 11:53 AM
> To: Councill, David; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Mgs] hood insulation
>
> David:
>
> The original bonnets and hinges were drilled by Pressed Steel to allow
> the bonnets to be removed and re-installed on the MG production line.
>
> You should be able to use the original holes in the hinges and drill
the
> bonnet if it has been replaced or re-aligned.
>
> Kelvin Dodd

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sat Jul 28 00:29:19 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 06:29:19 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] options for lowering 74.5 mgb?
Message-ID: <072820070629.19806.46AAE23F0002E6C500004D5E22155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Greeting -0-list.
I'm prepping the 74.5 mgb before taking it to "affordable" paint shop. We'll see 
if a paint job really is 90% prep work when it's finished.
   I'm going BRG rather than stock white, because those gigantibumpers look like 
the afterthoughts of a drunken, half blind, malicious AND disgruntaled auto 
design school drop out. But that's just my opinion. ;-)
  I'm thinking that the 74.5 (dual carb. rubber bumper car) should be fairly 
easy to lower to the chrome bumper height.
   What are the options for lowering this car?
I'm just prepping it to sell, so I've already bought the interiour kit. Who knew 
that autum leaf was so repulsive?
Maybe I can get some vinyl spray paint and...
   No. I've reached the point where I'll never get the additional $ out that I 
put into it.

 Just the lowering advice please :-) Ignore the rest. Just the rantings of a 
stressed out near-bankrupt MG enthusiast on disability, but who's disability 
insurance co. is "deciding" whether to authorize payment. Funny, when I owed 
them money, they sent threatening hate mail within a week. But now that they owe 
me money.....
   (mutter mutter mutter...)
Eric
At least I have these fine MGs to fix up and sell. I dream of making a profit, 
but only because my labor is not included.
--1946 MG-TC
Car # 1354
X-pag# 1945
black/green

1959 MGA 
HDL43/65240
Engine # BP15GB 13501
(Early 1956 motor. Balanced, reground isky cam about the same as the moss fast 
road cam grind. Oversize mgb valves.Sacraligeous overdrive. Yea, that's my baby 
:-)
Stock Glacier blue,
black int. white piping.(or was it grey?)


65 mgb #GHN3L/ 55205
no engine plate
Green, black w/ white piping interior

1970 MGB # GHN5UA217587 G
Engine # 18G-WE-H-42967
Man 8/70
stock color Flame red. Black int.

71 MGB # GHN5UB 220942 G
engine # 18GK-WE-H-1768
Man 9/70 
stock color  orange,(blaze?) black int.
 
74.5 MGB# GHN5UE364051 G
Engine # (to be filled in later).
white with black int. (Wrong color to go with those Gigantibumpers).

So many cars, so little parking

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jul 28 03:01:46 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 18:31:46 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>
	<0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net>

>> From his original email:
>
>
> I'm asking you go to
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each  
> day and
> vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto  
> anyone who
> can help spread the word.
>
>
> Click on Death Trap and enter the code on the left side of the page  
> to vote.
> You can vote every day.
>
>


Come on guys, vote early and vote often.

We are falling behind - I managed to drag the Death Trap up to 29.2%  
and those Rust Rocket guys back down to 29.9%!

I t could be a close finish!



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 06:52:05 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 05:52:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
Message-ID: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
   Its Saturday - at least here in the western
hemisphere!  What kinds of car-projects do you have in
today's queue?  I hope to (until Nancy revises my
priorities):

+ Lay plans to have the SL500's front and rear bumper
covers repainted.  Consider a sonar backup alert
device for the FRONT of the car, to warn of
spoiler-damaging low curbs.

+ Get the 308GTB on the battery charger.  Buy a
battery tender so I won't always have to do step 1.

+ Remove the MGB muffler, replace damaged exhaust
hangers, install new muffler.

+ Buy a new tank of propane for the grill.

+ Clean charity-junk out of garage, take to Goodwill.

Damn, I have an exciting life!!!

rick

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jul 28 07:50:14 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 23:20:14 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <71E6A36C-72E2-4566-9847-A3B75A2ED7CF@erickson.on.net>

On 28/07/2007, at 10:22 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>    Its Saturday - at least here in the western
> hemisphere!  What kinds of car-projects do you have in
> today's queue?

Hi Rick and all - it is Saturday night here so I am planning for Sunday.

Saturday was "wash the 'B" day - I pull her to bits and investigate  
the suspected burnt valve next week.

Oh yeah, I also watched local car racing and then watched my football  
team thrash their opponents - on TV,  It was a god relaxing Saturday.

Sunday should have seen me compete in our annual 6 hour event at my  
local racetrack (great to thrash the car around for up to 20 laps at  
a time - half an hour of solid workout... an endurance event)... but  
doing it on three and a half cylinders would be no fun at all.  For  
those who haven't seen it - this is an in-car highlights video from  
last year.  Pardon the music but they stripped off my soundtrack and  
I didn't think it was any good deathly silent.  The wacky music there  
now is royalty free :-)  Turn it off if you wish, I won't be offended.

http://one.revver.com/watch/338728

So I will be looking after my team training to run our sector of the  
South Australian leg of the Australian Rally Championship coming up  
in a couple of weeks.  I am the Chief Sector Marshall and it is two  
days of muddy, cold fun with noisy cars tearing up the forest. The  
training involves setting up a mini rally course (in the parklands  
that circle the CBD) and running cars around it at about ten miles  
per hour to make sure all the officials know what they have to do.   
Sector start controls, finish controls, spectator marshals, timing,  
radio communications etc etc.

Then I will come home and watch the V8 Supercars racing in Queensland.

Lots of car stuff - pity there is no F1 this weekend :-)

The weekend is for car stuff, Rick!




Eric

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 09:05:49 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:05:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <183267.67075.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Going to Pep Boys to check out engine hoists (2-ton on sale for $99). Then going to work on clearing some space in the garage to pull the engine on the '76 B. Check the blog link below to see what I've been working on for the past couple of months....




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 09:09:45 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:09:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <662128.82242.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

So what sort of replies do you get from the Ferrari list, Rick?

- "I'll be taking Muffy to the dog groomers, then having lunch at the
   Country Club, then get to bed early because of the polo match
   on Sunday."

- "Need to supervise the pool boy's cleaning today, he was looking at
   my wife a bit too much last time!"

- "I'll be hitting Rodeo Drive for some view-time in the Enzo my Daddy
   bought me, then wrapping it around a telephone pole by driving it way
   beyond my meager abilities...."

All if fun, of course!! 






      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 28 09:52:08 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:52:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca><0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <000201c7d12f$424143b0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

now ahead by a slim margin!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby


>>> From his original email:
>>
>>
>> I'm asking you go to
>> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each  
>> day and
>> vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto  
>> anyone who
>> can help spread the word.
>>
>>
>> Click on Death Trap and enter the code on the left side of the page  
>> to vote.
>> You can vote every day.

From hardt at sonic.net  Sat Jul 28 09:56:19 2007
From: hardt at sonic.net (Ron Engelhardt)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:56:19 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>
	<0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <46AB6723.50802@sonic.net>

Heh, it was tough, but I managed to get them to 30%!

Ron
58 MGA

Eric Erickson wrote:

>>>From his original email:
>>
>>
>>I'm asking you go to
>>http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each  
>>day and
>>vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto  
>>anyone who
>>can help spread the word.
>>
>>
>>Click on Death Trap and enter the code on the left side of the page  
>>to vote.
>>You can vote every day.
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
> Come on guys, vote early and vote often.
> 
> We are falling behind - I managed to drag the Death Trap up to 29.2%  
> and those Rust Rocket guys back down to 29.9%!
> 
> I t could be a close finish!
> 
> 
> 
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia
> _______________________________________________
> hardt at sonic.net
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 09:57:47 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:57:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <662128.82242.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <524424.82825.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

LOL!  One would think so BUT, the Ferrari List is not
the gold-chain group.  Those guys have 'people' to
send their e-mails.  The Ferrari List is a group of
like-minded guys who do their own maintenance, share
discounted parts source references and play with their
cars a lot.  They also restore their cars, share lots
of technical advice and swap parts, when needed. 
Sounds a lot like the MG list doesn't it?! :-)  

308's range in value from about $20k up to $60k or so.
 The $20k end are nice, presentable cars (read: there
are no 'barn find' Ferraris) but needing a little in
cosmetic and possibly, mechanical restoration.  The
later usually being maintenance items like suspension
bushing, brake pads, belts and hoses, etc..  
All-in-all, the cars are not expensive to maintain.
They can be expensive to repair if broken.  In the
last 7 years, I have changed the oil and filter and
invested in leather refinishing materials.  That's it.
 No other expenses.  That's about to change as I plan
to have the A/C replaced in my 308GTB.  I'll be out
about $800 (at the most) for that.  Being a closed car
(berlinetta), it does not behave well in Houston heat.
 The design was intended for slippery aerodynamics,
not cooling the interior with a nice breeze.  A/C is a
must for use down here because summer last about 13
months/year.

I sometimes catch hell from the uninformed about
'wasting money' on my Ferrari.  They quiet down when I
tell them, that while providing a fun hobby, it's
doing about three times as well as my 401(k).

best,

rick

--- Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> So what sort of replies do you get from the Ferrari
> list, Rick?
> 
> - "I'll be taking Muffy to the dog groomers, then
> having lunch at the
>    Country Club, then get to bed early because of
> the polo match
>    on Sunday."
> 
> - "Need to supervise the pool boy's cleaning today,
> he was looking at
>    my wife a bit too much last time!"
> 
> - "I'll be hitting Rodeo Drive for some view-time in
> the Enzo my Daddy
>    bought me, then wrapping it around a telephone
> pole by driving it way
>    beyond my meager abilities...."
> 
> All if fun, of course!! 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that
> smoke? <cough cough>
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 10:03:45 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 09:03:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <662128.82242.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <942115.54041.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dan's comment is WAY funny.  But seriously folks,
here's a note from a Ferrari List-member:

> OK - (hurumph) here it is - -
> 1 - finish restoration of my first car, a 66 VW - 
> needs headlights, safety belts and kick panel 
> speakers a la Porsche 356 style
> 2 - Finish 1971 911T restoration project
> 3 - clean out three generations of stuff brought 
> over from my dearly departed father so I can park 
> the other car in the garage.
> 4 - finish the work bench moved over from his house 
> (made seemingly from telephone poles and pier 39 
> dock planks, but has a lot of drawers.
> 5 - work on accounts setting them up for sibling 
> distribution
> 6 - go to co-worker luau this evening 
>
> Jobs may spill over to next weekend, or Thanksgiving
> DOUG
>
> Oh - start the 308 and run about town getting it 
> ready for its biennial smog check.  Car still has 
> its catalytic converters - in the trunk. heh heh

Fund reference point, eh?  Just like the rest of the
MG nuts.

rick

--- Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> So what sort of replies do you get from the Ferrari
> list, Rick?
> 
> - "I'll be taking Muffy to the dog groomers, then
> having lunch at the
>    Country Club, then get to bed early because of
> the polo match
>    on Sunday."
> 
> - "Need to supervise the pool boy's cleaning today,
> he was looking at
>    my wife a bit too much last time!"
> 
> - "I'll be hitting Rodeo Drive for some view-time in
> the Enzo my Daddy
>    bought me, then wrapping it around a telephone
> pole by driving it way
>    beyond my meager abilities...."
> 
> All if fun, of course!! 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that
> smoke? <cough cough>
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
> NAMGBR #5-2328 
>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 28 11:36:58 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 09:36:58 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] 74 MGB - quick resto for resale
Message-ID: <v01520d06c2d12d913e4a@[4.231.170.7]>

Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 06:29:19 +0000
From: cyberemp at comcast.net
Subject: [Mgs] options for lowering 74.5 mgb?
To: mgs at autox.team.net (MG LIST)
Message-ID:
        <072820070629.19806.46AAE23F0002E6C500004D5E22155934149F030A9D0A0D970C at comcast.net>
        

Greeting -0-list.
I'm prepping the 74.5 mgb before taking it to "affordable" paint shop. We'll see if a paint job really is 90% prep work when it's finished. I'm going BRG rather than stock white, I'm thinking that the 74.5 (dual carb. rubber bumper car) should be fairly easy to lower to the chrome bumper height. What are the options for lowering this car?
------------------------------------------------------

Some suggestions:

Don't do the colour change - it will make your cheaper paint job be more obvious - pay them the difference to match the stock colour if one off of the wall is not an exact match - White somehow tones down the Autumn Leaf (orange!) seats.  We used to have a 73 that was teal/aut leaf, as in bright blue and orange - I changed the interior to black - I use Maaco and have found them the best of the production painters - have those stupid bumpers painted with a coat of shiny new black rubber paint. weld on a simple straight chrome exhaust tip - buy a new MG plastic badge for the bootlid and a new set of trim rings and center cap decals from Moss if yours are not perfect (unless you have wire wheels). details are what people notice - lowering costs more than it is worth in resale - use 2" blocks on the rear and earlier springs on the front - clean and detail the underhood and boot area as much as you can. 

Get a GB oval plate for the back - It looks sooooo British and balances off the gas cap so well. Consider those little metal Union Jack badges that screw to the car - put them below the chrome strip just ahead of each door. Details sell.

My take - free advise is worth every penny you spend on it!

Best,
Rick Feibusch
British Car Network
Venice Beach, California
-----------------------------

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Sat Jul 28 11:45:35 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 13:45:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <71E6A36C-72E2-4566-9847-A3B75A2ED7CF@erickson.on.net>
References: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<71E6A36C-72E2-4566-9847-A3B75A2ED7CF@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <76664a460707281045u11ba7a2etd21cbdd39c837a27@mail.gmail.com>

You were chasing down some serious muscle on that track...

What have you done to your car to make it handle so well?

Whenever I'm racing on a track like that, I lose all momentum thru the
curves trying to pass people, then I have no HP to pull back up on the
straights.

- Steve

On 7/28/07, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
> On 28/07/2007, at 10:22 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:
>
> > Hello Friends,
> >    Its Saturday - at least here in the western
> > hemisphere!  What kinds of car-projects do you have in
> > today's queue?
>
> Hi Rick and all - it is Saturday night here so I am planning for Sunday.
>
> Saturday was "wash the 'B" day - I pull her to bits and investigate
> the suspected burnt valve next week.
>
> Oh yeah, I also watched local car racing and then watched my football
> team thrash their opponents - on TV,  It was a god relaxing Saturday.
>
> Sunday should have seen me compete in our annual 6 hour event at my
> local racetrack (great to thrash the car around for up to 20 laps at
> a time - half an hour of solid workout... an endurance event)... but
> doing it on three and a half cylinders would be no fun at all.  For
> those who haven't seen it - this is an in-car highlights video from
> last year.  Pardon the music but they stripped off my soundtrack and
> I didn't think it was any good deathly silent.  The wacky music there
> now is royalty free :-)  Turn it off if you wish, I won't be offended.
>
> http://one.revver.com/watch/338728
>
> So I will be looking after my team training to run our sector of the
> South Australian leg of the Australian Rally Championship coming up
> in a couple of weeks.  I am the Chief Sector Marshall and it is two
> days of muddy, cold fun with noisy cars tearing up the forest. The
> training involves setting up a mini rally course (in the parklands
> that circle the CBD) and running cars around it at about ten miles
> per hour to make sure all the officials know what they have to do.
> Sector start controls, finish controls, spectator marshals, timing,
> radio communications etc etc.
>
> Then I will come home and watch the V8 Supercars racing in Queensland.
>
> Lots of car stuff - pity there is no F1 this weekend :-)
>
> The weekend is for car stuff, Rick!
>
>
>
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 11:54:02 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:54:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 74 MGB - quick resto for resale
In-Reply-To: <v01520d06c2d12d913e4a@[4.231.170.7]>
Message-ID: <761803.53661.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My two cents:  

+ Stick with the white paint, as advised below.  It
not only looks traditional British, it also hides many
paint woes.  Dark colors like BRG emphasize them.

+ Might go with a semi-gloss black, rather than high
gloss, on the bumpers.  Painting them will make a
WORLD of difference.

+ If you are not replacing rubber, mask it really
well.  Then, after paint, clean it briskly with
Windex.  Doing so will cut the oxidized layer of
rubber off and leave the moldings looking fresher.

+ 100% agree on new badges.  They add sparkle.

+ 100% agree on NOT spending $$ on lowering the car. 
The rubber-bumper cars just look tall.  The buyer will
probably not notice the difference.

+ Tires good?  Clean and finished?  Wheels clean or do
they need a quick coat of 'wheel silver'?

+ Vacuum the carpets and spray with Fabreeze.  Treat
all rubber and vinyl bits with a dressing - especially
the sills.  They are the first invitation to get in
when the door is opened.

rick

--- Richard Feibusch <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 06:29:19 +0000
> From: cyberemp at comcast.net
> Subject: [Mgs] options for lowering 74.5 mgb?
> To: mgs at autox.team.net (MG LIST)
> Message-ID:
>        
>
<072820070629.19806.46AAE23F0002E6C500004D5E22155934149F030A9D0A0D970C at comcast.net>
>         
> 
> Greeting -0-list.
> I'm prepping the 74.5 mgb before taking it to
> "affordable" paint shop. We'll see if a paint job
> really is 90% prep work when it's finished. I'm
> going BRG rather than stock white, I'm thinking that
> the 74.5 (dual carb. rubber bumper car) should be
> fairly easy to lower to the chrome bumper height.
> What are the options for lowering this car?
>
------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Some suggestions:
> 
> Don't do the colour change - it will make your
> cheaper paint job be more obvious - pay them the
> difference to match the stock colour if one off of
> the wall is not an exact match - White somehow tones
> down the Autumn Leaf (orange!) seats.  We used to
> have a 73 that was teal/aut leaf, as in bright blue
> and orange - I changed the interior to black - I use
> Maaco and have found them the best of the production
> painters - have those stupid bumpers painted with a
> coat of shiny new black rubber paint. weld on a
> simple straight chrome exhaust tip - buy a new MG
> plastic badge for the bootlid and a new set of trim
> rings and center cap decals from Moss if yours are
> not perfect (unless you have wire wheels). details
> are what people notice - lowering costs more than it
> is worth in resale - use 2" blocks on the rear and
> earlier springs on the front - clean and detail the
> underhood and boot area as much as you can. 
> 
> Get a GB oval plate for the back - It looks sooooo
> British and balances off the gas cap so well.
> Consider those little metal Union Jack badges that
> screw to the car - put them below the chrome strip
> just ahead of each door. Details sell.
> 
> My take - free advise is worth every penny you spend
> on it!
> 
> Best,
> Rick Feibusch
> British Car Network
> Venice Beach, California
> -----------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sat Jul 28 14:24:30 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 20:24:30 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <072820072024.2186.46ABA5FE0007B0490000088A22165258569F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hi Rick.
Thanks for the free advise. I've already ordered the trim and some rubber pieces. Even the union jack badges, since the ones on the car are fadded. New chrome stripping, too.
I'm my own body work man, so I'm not worried about imperfections in the car surface. But I'm not looking forward to doing a paint color match so I can do the sills and trunk and engine compartment.
Actually, I am going to take it to Macco. I wonder if they have a white close enough?
Eric
Subject: [Mgs] 74 MGB - quick resto for resale
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 06:29:19 +0000
From: cyberemp at comcast.net        

Greeting -0-list.
I'm prepping the 74.5 mgb before taking it to "affordable" p
Some suggestions:
(snip)
Don't do the colour change - it will make your cheaper paint job be more obvious 
- pay them the difference to match the stock colour if one off of the wall is not an exact match - 
Get a GB oval plate for the back - It looks sooooo British and balances off the 
gas cap so well. Consider those little metal Union Jack badges that screw to the 
car - put them below the chrome strip just ahead of each door. Details sell.

My take - free advise is worth every penny you spend on it!

Best,
Rick Feibusch
British Car Network
Venice Beach, California
-----------------------------

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sat Jul 28 14:39:32 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 20:39:32 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] quick resto for resale
Message-ID: <072820072039.4572.46ABA9840000534C000011DC22165258569F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

From: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 74 MGB - quick resto for resale
To: Richard Feibusch <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>, mgs at autox.team.net
My two cents:  

+ Stick with the white paint, as advised below.  It
not only looks traditional British, it also hides many
paint woes.  Dark colors like BRG emphasize them.

<<Snip.>>

Good ideas. Thank you.
I'm my own body work man. I don't fear imperfections, I fix them!
Though doing the trunk, engine compartment and door sills, undersides and all else with a matching color does sound like a lot of work.
Rostyle wheels. They need a lot of attention. 
rubber and trim pieces ordered already.
Luckily I have several other MGBs to use for missing bits for now.
selling this car will finance the next, and so on.
Eric

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 14:48:23 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 13:48:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <072820072024.2186.46ABA5FE0007B0490000088A22165258569F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <932790.58479.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

> I am going to take it to Macco. I wonder
> if they have a white close enough?
 
Hey Eric,

   Thanks for the kind reply.  I have no experience
with Macco - other than planning to take a '66 Mustang
to them in Tulsa only to have the place burn to the
ground a few days before my appointment!  Still, I'm
sure they mix paint rather than stocking all those
colors.  You might do your homework and chase down the
color codes and perhaps even the PPG and/or Dupont
color formulas to help them along.  Their computer may
well not include 30+ year old color references.
   If you call them, or better yet, stop by their shop
to see what brand of paint they use then YOU can
research colors and formulas for their system. :-)

   Best,

rick - the geek

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Jul 28 18:12:57 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 09:42:57 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707281045u11ba7a2etd21cbdd39c837a27@mail.gmail.com>
References: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<71E6A36C-72E2-4566-9847-A3B75A2ED7CF@erickson.on.net>
	<76664a460707281045u11ba7a2etd21cbdd39c837a27@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <40F9CC8C-11C3-4BA1-B923-E4C8AD5F752C@erickson.on.net>

On 29/07/2007, at 3:15 AM, Steve wrote:

> You were chasing down some serious muscle on that track...
>
> What have you done to your car to make it handle so well?
>
> Whenever I'm racing on a track like that, I lose all momentum thru the
> curves trying to pass people, then I have no HP to pull back up on the
> straights.
>

Thanks,

The car is slightly warmed up power-wise (yes, still 4 cylinder  
despite the urgings of others to do otherwise) but the suspension is  
seriously uprated as are the brakes.

As you can tell from my chasing that racing Alpha for lap after lap,  
I can catch them under brakes but the lack of power out of the  
corners and down the straights makes for a frustrating day.

I will be thinking of the guys having that fun today while I am  
training rally officials.

I guess it is all a part of motorsport so I can't complain too much.

I hope the rest of you are doing something you love to do this weekend!



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 28 19:48:52 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 17:48:52 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <v01520d07c2d19d5e591f@[4.232.207.111]>

Guys,

I have used Maaco a number of times - pay the extra and buy the best paint - depending how much body work is done, consider having them also spray on  the primer sealer - the paint does come out glossier - I once brought the Long Beach Maaco a some VERY expensive German Glasso paint metallic blue and white to paint a 57 Ford retractable and they did a fabulous job - I mean, if a guy paints 10 cars a day, he gets pretty good after a few weeks and is a real pro after a few months - we didn't even have to colour sand it except a few spots, just buffed it out and put back the chrome. It came out so nice that it won a number of awards. My friends have done Morris Minors and MGAs at the same shop and they came out great but they didn't use the $200/gallon German paint which does make a difference - California now demands water based paints and, while they are not as bad as they once were, are not as good as imported enamel - shops are allowed to use a small amount of non-complying paint (so many gallons a month) for "touch ups" so sometimes they will spray what you brought in - usually the painter marvels at how well the paint lays on without running. Today's painters are now used to two step - lay down the colour evenly - sand out the dirt and runs - spot as necessary - pour on the clear for gloss. Looks OK, but not to an old guy who knows the difference - I still like nitro-celulouse lacquer - easy to spot - easy to shine - but alas, no more.

Best,
Rick Feibusch


>> I am going to take it to Macco. I wonder
>> if they have a white close enough?
> 
>Hey Eric,
>
>   Thanks for the kind reply.  I have no experience
>with Macco - other than planning to take a '66 Mustang
>to them in Tulsa only to have the place burn to the
>ground a few days before my appointment!  Still, I'm
>sure they mix paint rather than stocking all those
>colors.  You might do your homework and chase down the
>color codes and perhaps even the PPG and/or Dupont
>color formulas to help them along.  Their computer may
>well not include 30+ year old color references.
>   If you call them, or better yet, stop by their shop
>to see what brand of paint they use then YOU can
>research colors and formulas for their system. :-)
>
>   Best,
>
>rick - the geek

From MGMagnette at aol.com  Sat Jul 28 18:51:56 2007
From: MGMagnette at aol.com (MGMagnette at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 20:51:56 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Virtual Westminster MG Museum
Message-ID: <cd6.1529e988.33dd3eac@aol.com>

I would like to recreate the Westminster MG Museum, online.  I miss  that 
final October trip to Vermont, top down no matter the  weather, to see that 
wonderful and unrepeatable  collection of MGs.   If anyone has pictures please send 
them to me.   mgmagnette at aol.com
 
Thanks,
 
John



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Sat Jul 28 20:49:12 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 21:49:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Virtual Westminster MG Museum
In-Reply-To: <cd6.1529e988.33dd3eac@aol.com>
References: <cd6.1529e988.33dd3eac@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.1.20070728213940.03f9c930@mgaguru.com>

At 08:51 PM 7/28/2007 -0400, MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:
>I would like to recreate the Westminster MG Museum, online. .... If 
>anyone has pictures please send them to me. ....

John,

I have about 15 pictures I took there in 1989, including a couple 
nice pictures of the building ahe the road entrance sign.  It isn't a 
very large building, so most of the pictures are very close up or 
wide angle, and often looking around poles.  Very realistic though, 
because that's what the place was like.  These are all 4x6 glossies 
that I can scan.  What sort of size, resolution, and jpeg compression 
do you like?  I think I also still have the 35mm negatives.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From MGMagnette at aol.com  Sat Jul 28 21:40:44 2007
From: MGMagnette at aol.com (MGMagnette at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 23:40:44 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Virtual Westminster MG Museum
Message-ID: <c68.18b6e71d.33dd663c@aol.com>

Barney-  Any format you want to do is fine!   I know exactly  what you mean 
about trying to frame a shot at that place... no picture came out  looking like 
a postcard and all the cars were stuffed in there.  I'm  sure your pictures 
show what the place was like... just scruffy enough.
 
-John



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 28 22:46:15 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 21:46:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Virtual Westminster MG Museum
In-Reply-To: <cd6.1529e988.33dd3eac@aol.com>
Message-ID: <869556.45981.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have some 'somewhere' I even have some from the year after the last Tour. My wife and I were in the area for our own Fraternity Tour and stopped in Westminster see what was left. Two guys doing some resto work in the shop let me poke around. One year after the closing, most of the cars were still there and i got several pics then as well. I will ask my wife where they may be.
  Carl French

MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:
  I would like to recreate the Westminster MG Museum, online. I miss that 
final October trip to Vermont, top down no matter the weather, to see that 
wonderful and unrepeatable collection of MGs. If anyone has pictures please send 
them to me. mgmagnette at aol.com

Thanks,

John



       
---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Jul 29 02:57:08 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 10:57:08 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
References: <v01520d07c2d19d5e591f@[4.232.207.111]>
Message-ID: <000f01c7d1be$71d5d8e0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

My GT has been done with Sikkens in 1992 and still looks as new (besides 
some little dents).
Is that available in theStates?

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Feibusch" <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>
To: <cyberemp at comcast.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 3:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] (no subject)


> Guys,
>
> I have used Maaco a number of times - pay the extra and buy the best 
> paint - depending how much body work is done, consider having them also 
> spray on  the primer sealer - the paint does come out glossier - I once 
> brought the Long Beach Maaco a some VERY expensive German Glasso paint 
> metallic blue and white to paint a 57 Ford retractable and they did a 
> fabulous job - I mean, if a guy paints 10 cars a day, he gets pretty good 
> after a few weeks and is a real pro after a few months - we didn't even 
> have to colour sand it except a few spots, just buffed it out and put back 
> the chrome. It came out so nice that it won a number of awards. My friends 
> have done Morris Minors and MGAs at the same shop and they came out great 
> but they didn't use the $200/gallon German paint which does make a 
> difference - California now demands water based paints and, while they are 
> not as bad as they once were, are not as good as imported enamel - shops 
> are allowed to use a small amount of non-complying
> paint (so many gallons a month) for "touch ups" so sometimes they will 
> spray what you brought in - usually the painter marvels at how well the 
> paint lays on without running. Today's painters are now used to two step - 
> lay down the colour evenly - sand out the dirt and runs - spot as 
> necessary - pour on the clear for gloss. Looks OK, but not to an old guy 
> who knows the difference - I still like nitro-celulouse lacquer - easy to 
> spot - easy to shine - but alas, no more.
>
> Best,
> Rick Feibusch

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Jul 29 03:35:33 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 19:05:33 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <4AB705D4-724A-4FC3-ABEB-A28BBCE4C336@erickson.on.net>

On 25/07/2007, at 11:14 PM, Councill, David wrote:
>
> Make sure you include the URL each time you email in to the list.  
> It's a
> reminder for those of us who may not have saved it. Needless to  
> say, it
> is  one vote per day which technically means one vote per day per IP
> address and I have access to several IPs. I see that you have pulled
> into the lead but the second place team is still close behind.
>
>
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>
>

Guys, we are getting slack and the Deathtrap guys are falling  
seriously behind.

Vote early - vote often :-)



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South australia

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 29 09:46:52 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 08:46:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
Message-ID: <582873.72922.qm@web82313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,

   I'm here to report that I got exactly 0% of my
Saturday plan achieved!  :-(  Still, its now Sunday.
:-)

   I did attend the Saturday night car show down the
street.  It had rained earlier so the turn-out was
about 1/2 usual but still probably 60+ cars - exotics
to hot rods to restorations to old British sports
cars.  Always good fun.

rick
'03 L-R DII
'98 M-B SL500
'96 BMW 740iL
'79 Ferrari 308GTB
'70 MGB Tourer

--- Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>    Its Saturday - at least here in the western
> hemisphere!  What kinds of car-projects do you have
> in
> today's queue?  I hope to (until Nancy revises my
> priorities):
> 
> + Lay plans to have the SL500's front and rear
> bumper
> covers repainted.  Consider a sonar backup alert
> device for the FRONT of the car, to warn of
> spoiler-damaging low curbs.
> 
> + Get the 308GTB on the battery charger.  Buy a
> battery tender so I won't always have to do step 1.
> 
> + Remove the MGB muffler, replace damaged exhaust
> hangers, install new muffler.
> 
> + Buy a new tank of propane for the grill.
> 
> + Clean charity-junk out of garage, take to
> Goodwill.
> 
> Damn, I have an exciting life!!!
> 
> rick

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Jul 29 17:11:07 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 19:11:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge
In-Reply-To: <000a01c7d07e$2c1922d0$408a0fce@D3N5Y331>
References: <46AA1F5B.7010008@stclegal.com>
	<000a01c7d07e$2c1922d0$408a0fce@D3N5Y331>
Message-ID: <E1IFITJ-0005xf-LQ@gamma.look.ca>

Frank,

Jaeger are made by Smith and you will often get Jaeger gauges 
labelled as Smith but never visa vera !!!


At 02:44 PM 7/27/2007, frank wrote:
>Robert: I have an MGA and a 1964 and both have Jaeger gauges. Under the face
>they are identical to the Smiths gauges. I save and buy broken Jaeger gauges
>at swap meets, Carlisle, etc. just to acquire the face.Then I use the Jaeger
>face on  functioning Smiths gauge. What gauge do you need? I may have a
>non-working Jaeger gauge with a good face.
>Frank Krajewski
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com>
>To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 12:37 PM
>Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge
>
>
> >I need to rebuild a Jaeger Oil/Water Dual Gauge for my MGA.  I have
> > reviewed Barney Gaylord's web page on fixing the temperature capillary.
> > However, I can't find any info on cosmetic restoration to the dial face
> > or hands, or how to get to the inside guts. Does anyone sell the dial
> > faces for these (or any) MGA gauges?  I am a visual person, so it you
> > know of any resources out there that I can use to educate me on how to
> > proceed, I would appreciate it.  Thanks.
> > --
> > Robert Guinness
> > _______________________________________________
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 30 01:52:06 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 08:52:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] hood insulation
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0885@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <022901c7d280$2f36dd00$0200a8c0@Three>

Don't know about Pressed Steel, more likely Abingdon as they removed the 
bonnets on fully painted cars to work on the engine compartment.  But the 
likelihood of them still lining up (i.e. no wing or bonnet changes or 
adjustments since then) are pretty slim in most cases.  Mine didn't line up, 
and I didn't bother drilling more holes.  If you nip the bolts up just the 
right amount you should end up with enough 'slip' to pull and push the 
bonnet into alignment, but enough grip to allow you to lift the bonnet 
carefully when correctly aligned and tighten them fully.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The original bonnets and hinges were drilled by Pressed Steel to allow
> the bonnets to be removed and re-installed on the MG production line.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 30 02:02:30 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 09:02:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] options for lowering 74.5 mgb?
References: <072820070629.19806.46AAE23F0002E6C500004D5E22155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <022d01c7d280$2f6da470$0200a8c0@Three>

The usual option is to fit lowered front and rear springs.  This is one view 
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/may97b.html there 
are others.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   What are the options for lowering this car?

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Mon Jul 30 02:08:21 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 08:08:21 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] options for lowering 74.5 mgb?
Message-ID: <073020070808.25272.46AD9C750009E687000062B822165258069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

thank you paul
Eric
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> The usual option is to fit lowered front and rear springs.  This is one view 
> http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/may97b.html there 
> are others.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   What are the options for lowering this car?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 30 02:04:47 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 09:04:47 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge
References: <46AA1F5B.7010008@stclegal.com>
	<000a01c7d07e$2c1922d0$408a0fce@D3N5Y331>
Message-ID: <026501c7d282$496f4980$0200a8c0@Three>

The temp gauge may be, but the fuel gauge is very different.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Robert: I have an MGA and a 1964 and both have Jaeger gauges. Under the 
> face
> they are identical to the Smiths gauges. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Jul 30 02:30:27 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 09:30:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MG Postcards and Posters
Message-ID: <027f01c7d284$637cfc80$0200a8c0@Three>

For nearly 10 years I have carried images of posters and postcards available 
from Vintage Ad Gallery on my web site and from time to time have received 
enquiries about where to obtain them (the postal address and phone numbers 
are on the front  page of the MG Images section).  These enquiries would 
usually prompt me to see if Google could find a web site for them, but until 
today I could not.  However today I found 
http://www.vintageadgallery.com/index.html which includes a downloadable PDF 
on the Brochure page.

No connection, just a wish to share the availability of MG bric-a-brac.

PaulH. 

From frankk at intap.net  Mon Jul 30 05:06:57 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 07:06:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge
References: <46AA1F5B.7010008@stclegal.com><000a01c7d07e$2c1922d0$408a0fce@D3N5Y331>
	<E1IFITJ-0005xf-LQ@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <000401c7d299$bf3613d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

Barrie: I have several Smiths gauges  labeled as Jaeger thanks to my own 
handiwork!
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
To: "frank" <frankk at intap.net>; "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge


>
> Frank,
>
> Jaeger are made by Smith and you will often get Jaeger gauges labelled as 
> Smith but never visa vera !!!
>
>
> At 02:44 PM 7/27/2007, frank wrote:
>>Robert: I have an MGA and a 1964 and both have Jaeger gauges. Under the 
>>face
>>they are identical to the Smiths gauges. I save and buy broken Jaeger 
>>gauges
>>at swap meets, Carlisle, etc. just to acquire the face.Then I use the 
>>Jaeger
>>face on  functioning Smiths gauge. What gauge do you need? I may have a
>>non-working Jaeger gauge with a good face.
>>Frank Krajewski
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com>
>>To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 12:37 PM
>>Subject: [Mgs] Rebuilding Jaeger Oil/Temp Dual Gauge
>>
>>
>> >I need to rebuild a Jaeger Oil/Water Dual Gauge for my MGA.  I have
>> > reviewed Barney Gaylord's web page on fixing the temperature capillary.
>> > However, I can't find any info on cosmetic restoration to the dial face
>> > or hands, or how to get to the inside guts. Does anyone sell the dial
>> > faces for these (or any) MGA gauges?  I am a visual person, so it you
>> > know of any resources out there that I can use to educate me on how to
>> > proceed, I would appreciate it.  Thanks.
>> > --
>> > Robert Guinness
>> > _______________________________________________
>>_______________________________________________

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 30 09:32:43 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 08:32:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <749748.91373.qm@web82313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <970850.85302.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well, I got a lot of prep stuff done in my garage this week-end, in prep for pulling the engine from the '76B. Got the '65B moved over about a foot to give me more room between the cars (which necessitated a major cleaning of that side of the garage). Also purchased an engine hoist, which I am in the process of putting together (man, when they say '2-ton hoist', I didn't realize that's how much it weighs!).  Hoping to finish that build tonight. My son is anxious to get the engine pulled out so he can see it! Blog updated.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 30 09:39:30 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 08:39:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <970850.85302.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <889708.89512.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Um, forgot my sig with blog link.

Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote: Well, I got a lot of prep stuff done in my garage this week-end, in prep for pulling the engine from the '76B. Got the '65B moved over about a foot to give me more room between the cars (which necessitated a major cleaning of that side of the garage). Also purchased an engine hoist, which I am in the process of putting together (man, when they say '2-ton hoist', I didn't realize that's how much it weighs!).  Hoping to finish that build tonight. My son is anxious to get the engine pulled out so he can see it! Blog updated.



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Jul 30 09:59:53 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 08:59:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <4AB705D4-724A-4FC3-ABEB-A28BBCE4C336@erickson.on.net>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<4AB705D4-724A-4FC3-ABEB-A28BBCE4C336@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200707300859h3afcab7bu4781be1a37941a21@mail.gmail.com>

The Death Trap team are falling seriously behind. They need your votes
- and lots of them (delete the cookie, re-load the page and vote
again!).

On 7/29/07, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
> On 25/07/2007, at 11:14 PM, Councill, David wrote:
> >
> > Make sure you include the URL each time you email in to the list.
> > It's a
> > reminder for those of us who may not have saved it. Needless to
> > say, it
> > is  one vote per day which technically means one vote per day per IP
> > address and I have access to several IPs. I see that you have pulled
> > into the lead but the second place team is still close behind.
> >
> >
> > http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
> >
> >
>
> Guys, we are getting slack and the Deathtrap guys are falling
> seriously behind.
>
> Vote early - vote often :-)

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jul 30 10:45:34 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 02:15:34 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <40b437200707300859h3afcab7bu4781be1a37941a21@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<4AB705D4-724A-4FC3-ABEB-A28BBCE4C336@erickson.on.net>
	<40b437200707300859h3afcab7bu4781be1a37941a21@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5B28D8C7-1C69-41B5-BF56-8903959E8D16@erickson.on.net>

On 31/07/2007, at 1:29 AM, Simon Matthews wrote:

> The Death Trap team are falling seriously behind. They need your votes
> - and lots of them (delete the cookie, re-load the page and vote
> again!).
>
>

Hmmm, I have been going for ages but I don't seem to be getting  
anywhere now (even though it is letting me vote).

Oh well, off to bed for me but you guys have to do your bit, too :-)



>>> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>>>


Go for it.


Eric

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 30 11:14:52 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 10:14:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] options for lowering 74.5 mgb?
In-Reply-To: <072820070629.19806.46AAE23F0002E6C500004D5E22155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C09E8@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Eric:

Good luck on the insurance issue. Sounds like a real PITA.


I put together a set of parts to lower a rubber bumper car. It drops the
car down approximately 1" and stiffens the front suspension a bit so
cornering is flatter even without sway bars.

We installed the set up on an employees '76 MGB and were very happy with
the result.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=34772


Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> cyberemp at comcast.net
> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 11:29 PM
> To: MG LIST
> Subject: [Mgs] options for lowering 74.5 mgb?


>   I'm thinking that the 74.5 (dual carb. rubber bumper car) should be
> fairly
> easy to lower to the chrome bumper height.
>    What are the options for lowering this car?

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 30 11:48:51 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 10:48:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <46910.54973.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0A07@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Gee, can you tell I don't do computers over the weekend.

I winched a decrepit Rover SD1 into the workshop to finish off
dismantling it. It's very sad to see a relatively rust free car go
bye-bye. I don't know what BL was thinking when they specified the
material for the upholstery as a decent wearing interior would have
saved these cars from the scrapper.

Stripped the ancillaries and got the power train/front suspension ready
to drop out. It's interesting to work on a relatively modern design
where everything drops out the bottom of the car. Front struts, power
rack, engine with F.I., trans etc.

The power train has a BW Type 62 automatic trans and I've been thinking
about dropping it into a 1973 MGB to build a stop & go daily driver.
Just a thought at the moment as I have to get my '78 V8 Roadster
finished first.

Sunday - Back to home building mode. Fabricated steel gates out of pipe
to keep wife's Saurian necked horse from getting into the Alfalfa bales.



Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
> Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 5:52 AM
> To: sl; ferrari; MGS
> Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
>
> Hello Friends,
>    Its Saturday - at least here in the western
> hemisphere!  What kinds of car-projects do you have in
> today's queue?  I hope to (until Nancy revises my
> priorities):
>
> + Lay plans to have the SL500's front and rear bumper
> covers repainted.  Consider a sonar backup alert
> device for the FRONT of the car, to warn of
> spoiler-damaging low curbs.
>
> + Get the 308GTB on the battery charger.  Buy a
> battery tender so I won't always have to do step 1.
>
> + Remove the MGB muffler, replace damaged exhaust
> hangers, install new muffler.
>
> + Buy a new tank of propane for the grill.
>
> + Clean charity-junk out of garage, take to Goodwill.
>
> Damn, I have an exciting life!!!
>
> rick

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Jul 30 12:05:16 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 14:05:16 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
Message-ID: <d2f.c895047.33df825c@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/30/2007 10:49:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

The  power train has a BW Type 62 automatic trans and I've been thinking
about  dropping it into a 1973 MGB to build a stop & go daily driver.
Just a  thought at the moment as I have to get my '78 V8 Roadster
finished  first.



 
____________________________________


They do make a nice package, Kelvin, and don't have the weakness of the  
otherwise nice Rover 5 speed (the internal oil pump that stops pumping but you  
don't find out about it until the trans is well and truly trashed).
 
For some reason I always think of the GTs as being more suitable for an  
auto, but that's just me, I guess.
 
Some people like to do this sort of thing to the MGC, and indeed a V8  
powered MGC makes a very nice touring car, but I hate to see the existing number  of 
original cars reduced by one. Besides, they are really better for a Ford V8  
conversion as weight isn't an issue.
 
Of course you COULD sell the engine to pay for a nice 3.4 V6 and trans  to 
use in the MGB, and wind up with a less expensive conversion, more room, no  
more weight and equal or better power.....:-)
 
Bill Spohn

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 30 13:16:54 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 12:16:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <d2f.c895047.33df825c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0A37@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Let me see. I've got sitting around doing nothing:

3.5L V8 with transmission and fuel injection suitable to fit under an MGB
bonnet.

Block hugger headers
MGB GT V8 stainless exhaust system
Chrome bumper to V8 engine mount set
New 77-80 between the fenders sheet metal
Used 77-80 firewall steering shaft cup
Used 75-80 front crossmember & rack
3.07 ring and pinion


All surplus to my roadster V8 requirements.


Since many of the conversion bits are now old school (3.5L V8, block huggers,
single exhaust) they don't have much resale value, but would still work fine
in an unstressed vehicle.

I'm thinking that building a nice stock looking GT with automatic that would
be along the lines of what the factory car could have been. All BL parts in a
nice '73 black grille GT with period Special Tuning spoilers.

Kelvin.    Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time

________________________________________
 
They do make a nice package, Kelvin, and don't have the weakness of the
otherwise nice Rover 5 speed (the internal oil pump that stops pumping but you
don't find out about it until the trans is well and truly trashed).
 
For some reason I always think of the GTs as being more suitable for an auto,
but that's just me, I guess.
 
Some people like to do this sort of thing to the MGC, and indeed a V8 powered
MGC makes a very nice touring car, but I hate to see the existing number of
original cars reduced by one. Besides, they are really better for a Ford V8
conversion as weight isn't an issue.
 
Of course you COULD sell the engine to pay for a nice 3.4 V6 and trans to use
in the MGB, and wind up with a less expensive conversion, more room, no more
weight and equal or better power.....:-)
 
Bill Spohn

From MGMagnette at aol.com  Mon Jul 30 20:04:43 2007
From: MGMagnette at aol.com (MGMagnette at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 22:04:43 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Virtual Westminster MG Museum
Message-ID: <bcb.150fe2c8.33dff2bb@aol.com>

I threw up a website real fast... no content, no memorable URL yet.
 
_http://www.mgcars.org.uk/farina/westminster/_ (http://www.mgcars.org.uk
/farina/westminster/) 
 
Just let me know if the graphics, text, etc are way too big or don't work  in 
your browser or whatever.  If everything is working fine I'll get it a  real 
URL and then start loading up stuff.
 
There is no content, but I'll put up Barney's pictures tomorrow...  promise.  
 I will need a little help with identifying makes and  models.   I hate to 
say it, but the prewar stuff all looks the same to  me.   I can pick out the 
farina magnette and the arnolt TD and stuff  but those square riggers could all 
be TCs for all I know!
 
The pencil drawing is of Gerry's K3 or K4 and was sent to me today by the  
artist.  I don't have his permission to use it yet so pretend you didn't  see 
that!
 
-John



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Jul 30 22:24:17 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:54:17 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Virtual Westminster MG Museum
In-Reply-To: <bcb.150fe2c8.33dff2bb@aol.com>
References: <bcb.150fe2c8.33dff2bb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2219B964-4CBC-4683-8508-86CCC9E711B6@erickson.on.net>

On 31/07/2007, at 11:34 AM, MGMagnette at aol.com wrote:

> I threw up a website real fast... no content, no memorable URL yet.
>
> _http://www.mgcars.org.uk/farina/westminster/_ (http:// 
> www.mgcars.org.uk
> /farina/westminster/)
>
> Just let me know if the graphics, text, etc are way too big or  
> don't work  in
> your browser or whatever.  If everything is working fine I'll get  
> it a  real
> URL and then start loading up stuff.
>


Mate,

Sometimes a quickie is all you need.

Looks OK to me.




Eric
Adelaide, South Australia

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Tue Jul 31 05:21:16 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 07:21:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0A37@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <d2f.c895047.33df825c@aol.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0A37@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460707310421w5eb2a940g6c6245ec267eefc4@mail.gmail.com>

>Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time

Sounds like me.

I think we should all move to some population city and open a British
car museum.  We could put the 'show' cars up, but even better is part
of your admission fee would allow you to come tour the outside of the
work shop where you can watch all of us wrench heads work on weird
cars/conversions behind glass partitions.

- Steve

On 7/30/07, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
> Let me see. I've got sitting around doing nothing:
>
> 3.5L V8 with transmission and fuel injection suitable to fit under an MGB
> bonnet.
>
> Block hugger headers
> MGB GT V8 stainless exhaust system
> Chrome bumper to V8 engine mount set
> New 77-80 between the fenders sheet metal
> Used 77-80 firewall steering shaft cup
> Used 75-80 front crossmember & rack
> 3.07 ring and pinion
>
>
> All surplus to my roadster V8 requirements.
>
>
> Since many of the conversion bits are now old school (3.5L V8, block huggers,
> single exhaust) they don't have much resale value, but would still work fine
> in an unstressed vehicle.
>
> I'm thinking that building a nice stock looking GT with automatic that would
> be along the lines of what the factory car could have been. All BL parts in a
> nice '73 black grille GT with period Special Tuning spoilers.
>
> Kelvin.    Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time
>
> ________________________________________
>
> They do make a nice package, Kelvin, and don't have the weakness of the
> otherwise nice Rover 5 speed (the internal oil pump that stops pumping but you
> don't find out about it until the trans is well and truly trashed).
>
> For some reason I always think of the GTs as being more suitable for an auto,
> but that's just me, I guess.
>
> Some people like to do this sort of thing to the MGC, and indeed a V8 powered
> MGC makes a very nice touring car, but I hate to see the existing number of
> original cars reduced by one. Besides, they are really better for a Ford V8
> conversion as weight isn't an issue.
>
> Of course you COULD sell the engine to pay for a nice 3.4 V6 and trans to use
> in the MGB, and wind up with a less expensive conversion, more room, no more
> weight and equal or better power.....:-)
>
> Bill Spohn
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From eric at erickson.on.net  Tue Jul 31 06:55:57 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 22:25:57 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <40b437200707300859h3afcab7bu4781be1a37941a21@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<4AB705D4-724A-4FC3-ABEB-A28BBCE4C336@erickson.on.net>
	<40b437200707300859h3afcab7bu4781be1a37941a21@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F3CFE544-3B55-41C0-8728-BC34A40419A2@erickson.on.net>

On 31/07/2007, at 1:29 AM, Simon Matthews wrote:

> The Death Trap team are falling seriously behind. They need your votes
> - and lots of them (delete the cookie, re-load the page and vote
> again!).
>
>>>
>>> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>>>

Well, I did my bit again - and got some mates at work to help me out,  
too.

We have just about bridged the gap but a few more votes will tilt it  
back in back in favour of the dastardly DEATH TRAP TEAM.

Time to do your bit guys :-)



Eric

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 31 07:09:52 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 06:09:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707310421w5eb2a940g6c6245ec267eefc4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <760464.98453.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

> ...but even better is part of your admission fee 
> would allow you to come tour the outside of the
> work shop where you can watch all of us wrench heads
> work on weird cars/conversions behind glass 
> partitions.

...where the profanity would be filtered out by the
glass!  An added bonus is that this attraction would
never end - just like in our own garages! :-P

   BTW, I got a tiny bit done on my B last night.  I
cleaned and preped for paint, the left rear brake
drum.  That's the corner with the blown oil seal.  The
outside of the drum was coated in the usual dirt-oil
paste while the inside was wet with oil.  Took quite a
bit of degreasing to get the oil off of and out of the
cast iron!  Still, it is ready for a protective coat
of PlastiCoat's 'cast-coat cast iron' this evening.

rick
'70 Split-bumper 'B Tourer

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 31 07:13:39 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 06:13:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <760464.98453.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <892828.5310.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Error correction, as if it mattered...

>    BTW, I got a tiny bit done on my B last night.  I
> cleaned and preped for paint, the...

RIGHT

> ...rear brake drum.  That's the corner with the 
> blown oil seal.

rick

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Jul 31 09:35:33 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 08:35:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707310421w5eb2a940g6c6245ec267eefc4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0B24@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I like the idea. Bill and I could probably fill most of the hall.



Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve [mailto:temporarilyoffline at gmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:21 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin
> Cc: WSpohn4 at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Saturday projects
>
> >Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time
>
> Sounds like me.
>
> I think we should all move to some population city and open a British
> car museum.  We could put the 'show' cars up, but even better is part
> of your admission fee would allow you to come tour the outside of the
> work shop where you can watch all of us wrench heads work on weird
> cars/conversions behind glass partitions.
>
> - Steve

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Jul 31 10:19:28 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:19:28 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
Message-ID: <bc1.19527fe9.33e0bb10@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/31/2007 8:35:41 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

I like  the idea. Bill and I could probably fill most of the hall.   
____________________________________
 



Sadly, I am up to 7 non-daily drivers, which for a man with only one  covered 
garage is surely the height of folly.
 
Time to get a barn?
 
Bill

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 31 10:57:20 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 11:57:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><4AB705D4-724A-4FC3-ABEB-A28BBCE4C336@erickson.on.net><40b437200707300859h3afcab7bu4781be1a37941a21@mail.gmail.com>
	<F3CFE544-3B55-41C0-8728-BC34A40419A2@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <000501c7d393$dd0a9520$28a7a8c0@Garage.local>

you need to vote!!!  they've slipped to 3rd!!!!!


>> The Death Trap team are falling seriously behind. They need your votes
>> - and lots of them (delete the cookie, re-load the page and vote
>> again!).
>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>>>>
> 
> Well, I did my bit again - and got some mates at work to help me out,  
> too.
> 
> We have just about bridged the gap but a few more votes will tilt it  
> back in back in favour of the dastardly DEATH TRAP TEAM.
> 
> Time to do your bit guys :-)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 31 11:35:12 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:35:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0B24@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <005601c7d399$d89a0ce0$28a7a8c0@Garage.local>

i'm in.  i only need 6 spaces.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
To: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
Cc: <WSpohn4 at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Saturday projects


>I like the idea. Bill and I could probably fill most of the hall.
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Steve [mailto:temporarilyoffline at gmail.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:21 AM
>> To: Dodd, Kelvin
>> Cc: WSpohn4 at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Saturday projects
>>
>> >Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time
>>
>> Sounds like me.
>>
>> I think we should all move to some population city and open a British
>> car museum.  We could put the 'show' cars up, but even better is part
>> of your admission fee would allow you to come tour the outside of the
>> work shop where you can watch all of us wrench heads work on weird
>> cars/conversions behind glass partitions.
>>
>> - Steve

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 31 14:13:58 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:13:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <005601c7d399$d89a0ce0$28a7a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <237219.94166.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you open it up to ALL pathetic marques, I could
contribute a Land Rover, a Ferrari, a Mercedes, A BMW
and of course, the beloved MGB.  Of course we would
have to introduce that abomination known as METRIC
spanners!

rick

--- Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> i'm in.  i only need 6 spaces.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
> To: "Steve" <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
> Cc: <WSpohn4 at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Saturday projects
> 
> 
> >I like the idea. Bill and I could probably fill
> most of the hall.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Kelvin Dodd
> > 
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Steve [mailto:temporarilyoffline at gmail.com]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:21 AM
> >> To: Dodd, Kelvin
> >> Cc: WSpohn4 at aol.com; mgs at autox.team.net
> >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Saturday projects
> >>
> >> >Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time
> >>
> >> Sounds like me.
> >>
> >> I think we should all move to some population
> city and open a British
> >> car museum.  We could put the 'show' cars up, but
> even better is part
> >> of your admission fee would allow you to come
> tour the outside of the
> >> work shop where you can watch all of us wrench
> heads work on weird
> >> cars/conversions behind glass partitions.
> >>
> >> - Steve
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
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From peter at nosimport.com  Tue Jul 31 15:53:01 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 16:53:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <76664a460707310421w5eb2a940g6c6245ec267eefc4@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <d2f.c895047.33df825c@aol.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0A37@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<76664a460707310421w5eb2a940g6c6245ec267eefc4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070731165213.037bfb50@nosimport.com>

At 06:21 AM 7/31/2007, you wrote:

> >Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time
>
>Sounds like me.
>
>I think we should all move to some population city and open a British
>car museum.  We could put the 'show' cars up, but even better is part
>of your admission fee would allow you to come tour the outside of the
>work shop where you can watch all of us wrench heads work on weird
>cars/conversions behind glass partitions.
>
>- Steve
============
Sounds more like a zoo...................


Peter C 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 31 18:20:59 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 17:20:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] This evening's work
Message-ID: <627672.10134.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Dudes and Dudettes,
   Got a little shop time this evening.  Painted the
RR brake drum and started to remove the RF caliper,
hub and rotor - then decided I didn't want to deal
with the mess.  I decided to do a little fun work
instead.
   This evening I removed the grill and turn signals. 
(Headlights to be done later.)  The attachment
hardware was a hardware-store's nightmare.  There were
lots of dings in the paint but nothing that couldn't
be easily repaired.  The grill center section is
flawless but in need of paint.  The aluminum trim has
a ding or two in it but nothing a little careful metal
massaging won't fix.  
   I ordered new rubber gaskets some time ago while
ordering other parts.  Once everything is restored
I'll install the fixtures properly, with new lamps and
polished lenses.  In that same order I got a new MG
octigon for the grill.  That little treat will adorn
the freshly painted grill.
   The wiring needs to be cleaned and the lamp sockets
need to be cleaned out.  The reflector will be painted
with silver paint.  A good coat of dielectric grease
will keep things fresh inside including the lamp
bases.

That's it for Tuesday,

rick
'70 MGB - coming apart and going together