From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sat Dec  1 09:49:44 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 08:49:44 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Kumho Tires
Message-ID: <004601c8343a$2da9a820$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I am considering purchasing Kumho Power Star 758 tires size 175/70R14 for
mounting on my original wire wheels.  The best on line price I have found is
about $35.00 from Treadepot.com.

Any comments or suggestions about the tire;  the size; or the on line dealer
would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Ron
66 MGB

From ericemarkley at bellsouth.net  Sat Dec  1 10:05:53 2007
From: ericemarkley at bellsouth.net (Eric Markley)
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 12:05:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Kumho tires
Message-ID: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFKEHACAAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>

Kumho tires seem to get very good reviews on the Tire Rack, as well as the
comments here. They seem to be an extraordinary value at $35 per. I will
likely get some when it's time for new tires on my car.

I believe that the 175/70/14 size is best for the wire wheels. Rostyles can
accept 185/70/14 but will rub if your rear springs are sagging.

No comment to offer on your vendor. Tire Rack provides very good service,
based on people that I know who have dealt with them.

Eric in Florida
74 B

From montejane at gmail.com  Sat Dec  1 10:26:35 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 11:26:35 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Kumho tires
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFKEHACAAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
References: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFKEHACAAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0712010926t76a8f823n13931a8be93e9306@mail.gmail.com>

KUMHO brand is the best brand I've found for fighting wear on gravel
roads (we live on 4 miles of gravel for the past 23 years).
Monte

On 12/1/07, Eric Markley <ericemarkley at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Kumho tires seem to get very good reviews on the Tire Rack, as well as the
> comments here. They seem to be an extraordinary value at $35 per. I will
> likely get some when it's time for new tires on my car.
>
> I believe that the 175/70/14 size is best for the wire wheels. Rostyles can
> accept 185/70/14 but will rub if your rear springs are sagging.
>
> No comment to offer on your vendor. Tire Rack provides very good service,
> based on people that I know who have dealt with them.
>
> Eric in Florida
> 74 B
> _______________________________________________
> montejane at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  1 11:49:55 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 12:49:55 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Kumho Tires
References: <004601c8343a$2da9a820$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <000b01c8344a$f87d61d0$800101df@garage.local>

i (almost) always get my tires from tirerack.com

the exception, which is important here, is when i went to get tires for my 
also original wire wheels, i could find no one who would mount them unless i 
also bought the tires there.

you might want to inquire about mounting before you order.  and experience 
with mounting on wire wheels.  istr its a different technology.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 10:49 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Kumho Tires


>I am considering purchasing Kumho Power Star 758 tires size 175/70R14 for
> mounting on my original wire wheels.  The best on line price I have found 
> is
> about $35.00 from Treadepot.com.
>
> Any comments or suggestions about the tire;  the size; or the on line 
> dealer
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron
> 66 MGB 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sat Dec  1 12:51:07 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2007 13:51:07 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Kumho Tires
In-Reply-To: <004601c8343a$2da9a820$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004601c8343a$2da9a820$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <783217AB-656E-4C7C-9BD0-8AC8986C19CE@gmail.com>

I have those in 185/70R14 for my rostyles and then moved them to my  
Cosmic wheels.
I really like them. That sounds like a good price.

I don't think you'd want wider than 175 for wire wheels.

On Dec 1, 2007, at 10:49 AM, Ron Fine wrote:

> I am considering purchasing Kumho Power Star 758 tires size  
> 175/70R14 for
> mounting on my original wire wheels.  The best on line price I have  
> found is
> about $35.00 from Treadepot.com.
>
> Any comments or suggestions about the tire;  the size; or the on  
> line dealer
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron
> 66 MGB

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sun Dec  2 06:09:47 2007
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 07:09:47 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Test
References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com>
	<a06230948c33bad0a4450@[128.151.164.253]> 
Message-ID: <003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>

Is the list dead?

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Dec  2 06:27:05 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 07:27:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com>
	<a06230948c33bad0a4450@[128.151.164.253]> 
	<003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
Message-ID: <CC21319D-15BA-478A-8A29-42438521A853@gmail.com>

No,
	Why do you say that?

On Dec 2, 2007, at 7:09 AM, Chad Cooper wrote:

> Is the list dead?
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Dec  2 07:43:35 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 14:43:35 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Test
References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com><a06230948c33bad0a4450@[128.151.164.253]>
	<003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
	<CC21319D-15BA-478A-8A29-42438521A853@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c834f3$4fcb4d00$0200a8c0@Three>

Just very quiet these days.  Time was when I would get around 50 messages a 
day, now several days can go by without any.  It's all on Yahoo these days.

----- Original Message ----- 
> No,
> Why do you say that?
>
>> Is the list dead?

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  2 08:30:36 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 07:30:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Yahoo-mart and MGS, was: Test
In-Reply-To: <002c01c834f3$4fcb4d00$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <370256.6702.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well said Paul!  What you describe is "the Walmart
model".  That is, bring the big boy in, cut prices and
include a pile of loss-leaders and voila!, you've
driven all the local businessmen out of business! 
Let's not let that happen to mgs at autox.team.net!

BTW, I've been making good progress on the '70 MGB
Split-bumper Tourer.  The front grill, lighting and
bumper are finished.  I still have a little wiring
issues to iron out.  I cleaned and rewired the lights
and harness correctly and now the turn signals don't
work.  However, the turn signals were mis-wired when I
got the car and I have identified an ugly mess of
splices upstream from the front harness (in the engine
bay).  That's where, I'm sure, I will find the
problems.  I know the under-dash part is right because
I rewired all of that when I rebuilt the dash.

Today, I hope to find a little time to clean the
right-front suspension in preparation for repainting
and the reassembly of the axle/wheel bearing/hub and
brakes.  That will leave me with only the right-rear
axle to rebuild.  I know it has a leaking oil seal and
I have the replacement in the "new parts" box.

On other fronts: 
(1) Haven't touched the Ferrari for many weeks. 
That's a sin.

(2) Sold my M-B SL500 to my brother for his wife. 
She's wildly excited - and rightly so.  That is a
fantastic car!

(3) I just bought a new M-B "C300 Luxury" for my daily
driver.  Its not a powerful as the SL500 but being 10
years newer technology, it handles better.

(4) In under two weeks, my son gets home from college
for the holidays!

(5) Christmas is soon to be upon us!

Best regards and happy motoring to all,

Rick
PS: Don't let Yahoo-mart win!  Keep posting here where
we belong!

--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> ...now several days can go by without any.  It's
> all on Yahoo these days.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  2 08:53:53 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 07:53:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
Message-ID: <260292.35526.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Chad Cooper <mgb72 at airmail.net> wrote: Is the list dead?
_______________________________________________


   Dead Collector: Bring out yer dead. [Hits gong]
   Large Man: Here's one.
   Dead Collector: Ninepence.
   Old Man: I'm not dead!
   Dead Collector: What?
   Large Man: Nothing. Here's your ninepence.
   Old Man: I'm not dead!
   Dead Collector: 'Ere, he says he's not dead.
   Large Man: Yes he is. 
---------------------------------
 
   Large Man: Well, he will be soon, he's very ill.
   Old Man: I'm getting better!
   Large Man: No you're not, you'll be stone dead in a moment.
   Dead Collector: Well, I can't take him like that. It's against regulations.
   Old Man: I don't want to go on the cart!
   Large Man: Oh, don't be such a baby. 
---------------------------------
 
   Large Man: Well, when's your next round?
   Dead Collector: Thursday.
   Old Man: I think I'll go for a walk.
   Large Man: You're not fooling anyone, you know. Isn't there anything you could do?
   Old Man: I feel happy. I feel happy.
   [The Dead Collector glances up and down the street furtively, then silences the Old Man with a whack of his club]
   Large Man: Ah, thanks very much.
   Dead Collector: Not at all. See you on Thursday.


      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From saidel at camden.rutgers.edu  Sun Dec  2 09:27:42 2007
From: saidel at camden.rutgers.edu (saidel at camden.rutgers.edu)
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 11:27:42 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <CC21319D-15BA-478A-8A29-42438521A853@gmail.com>
References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com>
	<a06230948c33bad0a4450@[128.151.164.253]>
	<003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
	<CC21319D-15BA-478A-8A29-42438521A853@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20071202112742.sdy12dd0sgw40wow@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu>

>> Is the list dead?
>
Not dead, hibernating!

At least in NJ, hibernation season has begun.  Boy, do I love working  
in a 38 degree (F) garage...

Bill Saidel
'74B that still doesn't start but....
'76B sleeping for a few months
BMCSNJ

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Dec  2 10:25:18 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 11:25:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <002c01c834f3$4fcb4d00$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com><a06230948c33bad0a4450@[128.151.164.253]>
	<003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
	<CC21319D-15BA-478A-8A29-42438521A853@gmail.com>
	<002c01c834f3$4fcb4d00$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <FB52D758-9404-45EC-A92F-B93A23B6A7DB@gmail.com>

I don't pay attention to where the messages come from. Yahoo has been  
pretty chatty lately.
I prefer to post questions to this list.

On Dec 2, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Just very quiet these days.  Time was when I would get around 50  
> messages a day, now several days can go by without any.  It's all on  
> Yahoo these days.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> No,
>> Why do you say that?
>>
>>> Is the list dead?

From mgs at bonacker.us  Sun Dec  2 11:16:34 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 18:16:34 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] Alls well (was  Test)
Message-ID: <c812a18977e248d4bf5a5be2a6044d54@86c9ba14991c44bf89cf6c665d1f3408>

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Paul Hunt
>Sent: Sunday, December 02,
2007 8:44 AM
>
>Just very quiet these days.  Time was when I would get
around 
>50 messages a day, now several days can go by without any.  
>It's
all on Yahoo these days.
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>> No,
>> Why
do
you say that?
>>
>>> Is the list dead?
>
>Edit your replies

When I
have
a question, I check the archives to see if there is anything new I missed -
http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/

That became a habit when I first
realized that I wasn't getting everything, and before I realized that relayed
email was being blocked. 

It's a little easier to post on Yahoo, but MGS
was my first.

BTW - you will note that the archives don't go back before
June, when the host used by MGS imploded. I've got a complete set if archives
in PDF format if anyone wants them. I wonder if there is a place on the
current host server that I could upload them to?

Scott Bonacker
'65B with
potential, '77B driver and a '73 donor

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec  2 13:04:19 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 14:04:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Rick's Christmas
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1196622001.28660.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1196622001.28660.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F306796A-1F24-40B2-8961-799CA619CD70@sbcglobal.net>

Rick, 2 MB, Ferrari, MGB SBT.....It sounds like Christmas may have  
already visited!

On Dec 2, 2007, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> BTW, I've been making good progress on the '70 MGB
> Split-bumper Tourer.
> On other fronts:
> (1) Haven't touched the Ferrari for many weeks.
> That's a sin.
>
> (2) Sold my M-B SL500 to my brother for his wife.
> She's wildly excited - and rightly so.  That is a
> fantastic car!
>
> (3) I just bought a new M-B "C300 Luxury" for my daily
> driver.  Its not a powerful as the SL500 but being 10
> years newer technology, it handles better.
>
> (4) In under two weeks, my son gets home from college
> for the holidays!
>
> (5) Christmas is soon to be upon us!
>
> Best regards and happy motoring to all,
>
> Rick

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Sun Dec  2 13:10:58 2007
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 15:10:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <260292.35526.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <260292.35526.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D3E8031-4F34-460C-A2C7-F42DFF8371DD@trebelhorn.com>

The list isn't dead.

It just smells funny.



(A little Zappa reference should wake the list up!)
Matt

On 2 Dec, 2007, at 10:53 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Chad Cooper <mgb72 at airmail.net> wrote: Is the list dead?
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>    Dead Collector: Bring out yer dead. [Hits gong]
>    Large Man: Here's one.
>    Dead Collector: Ninepence.
>    Old Man: I'm not dead!
>    Dead Collector: What?
>    Large Man: Nothing. Here's your ninepence.
>    Old Man: I'm not dead!
>    Dead Collector: 'Ere, he says he's not dead.
>    Large Man: Yes he is.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec  2 13:55:22 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 12:55:22 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Yahoo-mart and MGS, was: Test
In-Reply-To: <370256.6702.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3785BBA.1352C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Tip: check the diameter of the axle where it rides on the seal. It may be
worn to the point where it won't seal under any circumstances. Solution is a
Speedi-Sleeve from Chicago Rawhide. BTDT.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/2/07 7:30 AM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> That will leave me with only the right-rear
> axle to rebuild.  I know it has a leaking oil seal and
> I have the replacement in the "new parts" box.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  2 14:50:50 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 13:50:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Rick's Christmas
In-Reply-To: <F306796A-1F24-40B2-8961-799CA619CD70@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <633237.32808.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Rick, 2 MB, Ferrari, MGB SBT.....It sounds like
> Christmas may have  
> already visited!

Naaa, just old and I have no other hobbies.

rick

From mgb72 at airmail.net  Sun Dec  2 14:54:21 2007
From: mgb72 at airmail.net (Chad Cooper)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 15:54:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <FB52D758-9404-45EC-A92F-B93A23B6A7DB@gmail.com>
References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com><a06230948c33bad0a4450@[128.151.164.253]>
	<003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
	<CC21319D-15BA-478A-8A29-42438521A853@gmail.com>
	<002c01c834f3$4fcb4d00$0200a8c0@Three>
	<FB52D758-9404-45EC-A92F-B93A23B6A7DB@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004101c8352d$e5cd8130$b1688390$@net>

Me too, this is where it all started.

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Root [mailto:ptrmgb at gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 11:25 AM
To: Paul Hunt
Cc: Chad Cooper; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Test

I don't pay attention to where the messages come from. Yahoo has been  
pretty chatty lately.
I prefer to post questions to this list.

On Dec 2, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Just very quiet these days.  Time was when I would get around 50  
> messages a day, now several days can go by without any.  It's all on  
> Yahoo these days.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> No,
>> Why do you say that?
>>
>>> Is the list dead?

From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Sun Dec  2 15:01:20 2007
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 22:01:20 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Yahoo-mart and MGS, was: Test
Message-ID: <227LLBwau5950S19.1196632880@cmsweb19.cms.usa.net>

Well, to bring up relevant traffic, I asked about a squealing noise when I
released the clutch pedal and got many excellent suggestions both on and off
list of what it might be, and it turned out to be (much to my surprise) the
fan belt. All fixed now.

My '70 Split bumper GT is still my daily ride to work, and I've just been
putting up with annoyances like the Tach suddenly being stuck at the top of
it's range. It's more annoying than usual because I had become used to using
it to gauge my speed ever since the speedo packed it in.

What with a house move (within town, from rented to purchased home) and
end-of-semester coming in my job there is just too much else to do.

Douglas

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Sun Dec  2 15:09:38 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 14:09:38 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <004101c8352d$e5cd8130$b1688390$@net>
References: <20071016205937.GB13790@red4est.com>
	<a06230948c33bad0a4450@128.151.164.253>
	<003a01c834e4$9e18ea80$da4abf80$@net>
	<CC21319D-15BA-478A-8A29-42438521A853@gmail.com>
	<002c01c834f3$4fcb4d00$0200a8c0@Three>
	<FB52D758-9404-45EC-A92F-B93A23B6A7DB@gmail.com>
	<004101c8352d$e5cd8130$b1688390$@net>
Message-ID: <76664a460712021409vbc165bbqd95134316675fdca@mail.gmail.com>

The only problem with this list is that the reply is to the author and not
to the list, so I feel like I'm missing out on the answers sometimes.

- Steve

On Dec 2, 2007 1:54 PM, Chad Cooper <mgb72 at airmail.net> wrote:

> Me too, this is where it all started.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Root [mailto:ptrmgb at gmail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 11:25 AM
> To: Paul Hunt
> Cc: Chad Cooper; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Test
>
> I don't pay attention to where the messages come from. Yahoo has been
> pretty chatty lately.
> I prefer to post questions to this list.
>
> On Dec 2, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>
> > Just very quiet these days.  Time was when I would get around 50
> > messages a day, now several days can go by without any.  It's all on
> > Yahoo these days.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> No,
> >> Why do you say that?
> >>
> >>> Is the list dead?
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec  2 16:35:07 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2007 15:35:07 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Test [now Lists]
In-Reply-To: <76664a460712021409vbc165bbqd95134316675fdca@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C378812B.13548%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

??? That's not true. When I click on "reply", the message is addressed to
"mgs at autox.net". As in this reply right now...

 

on 12/2/07 2:09 PM, Steve at temporarilyoffline at gmail.com wrote:

> The only problem with this list is that the reply is to the author and not
> to the list, so I feel like I'm missing out on the answers sometimes.
> 
> - Steve
> 


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  2 16:53:56 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 15:53:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Test [now Lists]
In-Reply-To: <C378812B.13548%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <652980.11205.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

That may depend upon how you have your browser set. 
"Reply" on my profile defaults to the sender, not the
list.  I have to use "Reply All" to achieve what Max
can do in one click.

rick

--- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> ??? That's not true. When I click on "reply", the
> message is addressed to
> "mgs at autox.net". As in this reply right now...
> 
>  
> 
> on 12/2/07 2:09 PM, Steve at
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com wrote:
> 
> > The only problem with this list is that the reply
> is to the author and not
> > to the list, so I feel like I'm missing out on the
> answers sometimes.
> > 
> > - Steve
> > 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Dec  2 17:00:56 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 10:30:56 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Test [now Lists]
In-Reply-To: <652980.11205.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <652980.11205.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B2150D77-8873-4100-BC09-016469674223@erickson.on.net>

On 03/12/2007, at 10:23 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> That may depend upon how you have your browser set.
> "Reply" on my profile defaults to the sender, not the
> list.  I have to use "Reply All" to achieve what Max
> can do in one click.
>

I use Apple MAIL and I have to click "Reply All" to get it back to  
the list.

This is always the "safe" method as it minimises those "ooops"  
moments when you send stuff to the list that was meant to be seen by  
the message originator only.  It is never quite so tragic if you send  
something to the originator and not the list by mistake.




Eric

From michaelwjose at hotmail.com  Sun Dec  2 18:44:32 2007
From: michaelwjose at hotmail.com (Michael W Jose)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 18:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 2
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1196622001.28660.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY127-DAV14C71C6A1610E894B6DA74CC6C0@phx.gbl>

Rick Lindsay wrote:
 "(2) Sold my M-B SL500 to my brother for his wife. 
She's wildly excited - and rightly so.  That is a
fantastic car!"

Is that legal? I'm sure a lot of guys on here might be willing to trade
a wife for a Mercedes...

-Mike Jose
79 B starting to be resurrected

From batangelias at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  3 00:56:18 2007
From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan)
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 23:56:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage racing in the Philippines
In-Reply-To: <DFEKKHDEPKCIEOFDJAEFKEHACAAA.ericemarkley@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <471285.95325.qm@web34204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings;

It was a sunny day in Subic raceway, Philippines last Nov. 24 2007.

My MGB just got a weber 45 DCOE13, this was its first race with the side draft.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqksmn1mCR4

thanks,
martin





       
---------------------------------
Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec  3 01:49:17 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 08:49:17 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Yahoo-mart and MGS, was: Test
References: <C3785BBA.1352C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007101c8358a$bbf406b0$0200a8c0@Three>

A 1970 should have a Salisbury axle and the seal runs on a sleeve anyway, 
better to replace this than add another.  Part No. AAA982 - Collar, oil 
seal.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Tip: check the diameter of the axle where it rides on the seal. It may be
> worn to the point where it won't seal under any circumstances. Solution is 
> a
> Speedi-Sleeve from Chicago Rawhide. BTDT.

>> That will leave me with only the right-rear
>> axle to rebuild.  I know it has a leaking oil seal and
>> I have the replacement in the "new parts" box.

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  3 05:19:46 2007
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (craigstraub at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 06:19:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mikuni
References: <C3785BBA.1352C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<007101c8358a$bbf406b0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <000a01c835a6$ce91bd00$6601a8c0@DELL>

Has anyone put a Mikuni side draft on their car?

The Mikuni throttle opens by a pull down stroke I am having the following 
problem.

How do you connect the throttle cable and have it work?

Thanks,

Craig

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Dec  3 06:40:54 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2007 07:40:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage racing in the Philippines
In-Reply-To: <471285.95325.qm@web34204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <471285.95325.qm@web34204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47540766.1090807@gmail.com>

Wow, I guess burning oil makes you go faster! At least in the Karman 
Ghia, it does. :-)

Was that a D-Type you passed at the start?


Martin C. Galan wrote:
> Greetings;
>
> It was a sunny day in Subic raceway, Philippines last Nov. 24 2007.
>
> My MGB just got a weber 45 DCOE13, this was its first race with the side draft.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqksmn1mCR4
>
> thanks,
> martin

From jltinkham at tds.net  Mon Dec  3 06:56:19 2007
From: jltinkham at tds.net (Jim Tinkham)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 7:56:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Sticking Tach, was: Yahoo-mart and MGS
In-Reply-To: <227LLBwau5950S19.1196632880@cmsweb19.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <20071203075619.EHO2B.459265.root@webfep11>

Douglas,

The Tach on my 66 would work for a little bit and then "get stuck" and not work right.  I thought it was a heat issue until the car started misfiring etc.  The latter problem was the coil and when I put a new one in my Tach problem also was history.

Tink
60 Bugeye
66 MGB
69 MGC GT

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec  3 06:45:45 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 13:45:45 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Mikuni
References: <C3785BBA.1352C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><007101c8358a$bbf406b0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<000a01c835a6$ce91bd00$6601a8c0@DELL>
Message-ID: <004b01c835b4$abec61c0$0200a8c0@Three>

For many years the SU chokes used a pull-up lever but the cable came from 
underneath.  The change of direction was achieved by attaching the inner to 
a fixed point (a bracket on an air cleaner bolt) and the outer to the 
levers, strikes me you could do the same thing for your carb to go the other 
way.  You do have to make sure the cable is long enough and has suitable 
room for manoeuvre as of course the outer has to physically move within the 
engine compartment to operate the lever.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The Mikuni throttle opens by a pull down stroke I am having the following
> problem.
>
> How do you connect the throttle cable and have it work?

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Dec  3 07:08:03 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 09:08:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Test
Message-ID: <20071203.090803.3144.6.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Bill,
    I mentioned to my oil dealer that I was looking for a hot-air furnace
for my garage.  Soon thereafter, he appeared with one that had been taken
out of a house that was being renovated and its several furnaces being
replaced by one large one.    He told me that there is a steady supply of
good, used, take-out units around.  
    Having it has improved garage comfort immeasurably.  Putting it on
Saturday morning before breakfast results in much nicer working
conditions an hour later.  There is something really irritating about a
ratchet wrench that won't ratchet because its lubricant is cold. 
Bob

On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 11:27:42 -0500 saidel at camden.rutgers.edu writes:
> >> Is the list dead?
> >
> Not dead, hibernating!
> 
> At least in NJ, hibernation season has begun.  Boy, do I love 
> working  
> in a 38 degree (F) garage...
> 
> Bill Saidel
> '74B that still doesn't start but....
> '76B sleeping for a few months
> BMCSNJ

From bdavispics at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  3 08:06:58 2007
From: bdavispics at yahoo.com (BDavis)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 07:06:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Help identify these Con Rod Bearings
Message-ID: <908131.4513.qm@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi listers...
Can someone please confirm what size (and for what application) these
Con Rod Bearings are?

The box is labeled;
8G 2426 STD.
CON ROD BRG.
A70 VP. OTY. 1 SET

The bearings are stamped on their backs 12H 1505 on one end and 4931 on
the other.

I purchased them with the understanding that they were "Standard" (not
undersized) 5 main MGB rod bearings. 
Is this correct??? 

TIA...... Bill


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec  3 08:36:11 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 15:36:11 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Help identify these Con Rod Bearings
References: <908131.4513.qm@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003801c835c4$42862990$0200a8c0@Three>

FWIW neither of those part numbers (8G 2426 or 12H 1505) are listed in the 
Parts Catalogue.  The 5 bearing big ends are listed as 8G 2664 with suffixes 
of 10, 20, 30 and 40 for undersize.  Lots of Google references for past eBay 
listings of that number for MGB though.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Can someone please confirm what size (and for what application) these
> Con Rod Bearings are?
>
> The box is labeled;
> 8G 2426 STD.
> CON ROD BRG.
> A70 VP. OTY. 1 SET
>
> The bearings are stamped on their backs 12H 1505 on one end and 4931 on
> the other.

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Dec  3 09:47:01 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2007 10:47:01 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Help identify these Con Rod Bearings
In-Reply-To: <003801c835c4$42862990$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <908131.4513.qm@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<003801c835c4$42862990$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071203103109.00f809d0@nosimport.com>

Bill  (and Paul)
         Those bearings are a bit older. Probably in BMC packaging?
8G2426  is the part number for connecting rod bearings for MGB 5 Main 
bearing engines as shown in an older BMC MGB parts catalog 
AKD3547.  An old Vandervell book with the striped cover confirms the 
12H 1505 as well. Vandervell part number is VP91173.  And yes, they 
are Standard.  The only explanation for the BMC part number change is 
that Vandervell appears to have changed from the earlier VP3 material 
to VP2 while keeping their same part number VP91173. The 12H1505 is 
the BMC part number for the individual shell as is the Vandervell 
reference 4931
         Not significant for your purposes. They are just an older 
set of bearings. Probably from the mid to late 60's.

         Peter C
===
At 09:36 AM 12/3/2007, Paul Hunt wrote:

>FWIW neither of those part numbers (8G 2426 or 12H 1505) are listed in the
>Parts Catalogue.  The 5 bearing big ends are listed as 8G 2664 with suffixes
>of 10, 20, 30 and 40 for undersize.  Lots of Google references for past eBay
>listings of that number for MGB though.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
> > Can someone please confirm what size (and for what application) these
> > Con Rod Bearings are?
> >
> > The box is labeled;
> > 8G 2426 STD.
> > CON ROD BRG.
> > A70 VP. OTY. 1 SET
> >
> > The bearings are stamped on their backs 12H 1505 on one end and 4931 on
> > the other.

From batangelias at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  3 10:03:23 2007
From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 09:03:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage racing in the Philippines
In-Reply-To: <47540766.1090807@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <73000.33292.qm@web34214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It was not oil .... the Karmann's brakes seized on him after 2 laps. 

The green car that I passed at the start was a Westfield Lotus 11.



Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote: Wow, I guess burning oil makes you go faster! At least in the Karman 
Ghia, it does. :-)

Was that a D-Type you passed at the start?




       
---------------------------------
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.  Make Yahoo! your homepage.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Dec  3 10:44:53 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 09:44:53 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <4D3E8031-4F34-460C-A2C7-F42DFF8371DD@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D026833@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Ummm. Sorry, that was me.

I was cutting the trans mounts off an MGA frame and the rubber packing
next to the right one caught fire.


I promise to take a shower before posting again.


Kelvin.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Matt Trebelhorn
> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 12:11 PM
> To: Dan DiBiase
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Test
>
> The list isn't dead.
>
> It just smells funny.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Dec  3 10:47:45 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 12:47:45 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Test
Message-ID: <c89.1c42e162.34859b41@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/3/2007 9:44:54 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

I was  cutting the trans mounts off an MGA frame and the rubber packing
next to  the right one caught fire.



 
____________________________________

Butcher!!
 
Are you sticking an OD in it, or......:-)
 
Bill

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Dec  3 11:11:01 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 10:11:01 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <c89.1c42e162.34859b41@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D026850@kb1.mossmotors.com>

This from the fiberglass bodied V6 FrankenMGA creator   : )




Kelvin Dodd


>
> In a message dated 12/3/2007 9:44:54 A.M. Pacific Standard
> Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes:
>
> I was  cutting the trans mounts off an MGA frame and the
> rubber packing next to  the right one caught fire.
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
>
> Butcher!!
>
> Are you sticking an OD in it, or......:-)
>
> Bill

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Dec  3 11:15:56 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 13:15:56 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Test
Message-ID: <c63.1fd6db4b.3485a1dc@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/3/2007 10:10:53 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

This  from the fiberglass bodied V6 FrankenMGA creator   :  )




 
____________________________________


Well I wouldn't say creator, more someone that took  pity on a previously 
butchered MGA.
 
Did you get the latest MGA! ?
 
The editor couldn't resist a warning to purists that they  might be repelled 
by the sight of the slaughter of innocents in my  article....
 
I posted it at  _http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/f/Jamaican.pdf_ 
(http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/f/Jamaican.pdf) 
 
Bill

From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  3 11:28:38 2007
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 10:28:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage racing in the Philippines
In-Reply-To: <73000.33292.qm@web34214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <256566.88707.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Martin,
     What was that small sedan looking thing,just
going like stink?  The film was exciting..your engine
sounded like a big block gaining revs..what a sound.
Howard Gentry
1976MG-B roadster
1974 B-GT

--- "Martin C. Galan" <batangelias at yahoo.com> wrote:

> It was not oil .... the Karmann's brakes seized on
> him after 2 laps. 
> 
> The green car that I passed at the start was a
> Westfield Lotus 11.
> 
> 
> 
> Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote: Wow, I guess
> burning oil makes you go faster! At least in the
> Karman 
> Ghia, it does. :-)
> 
> Was that a D-Type you passed at the start?
> 
> 
> 
> 
>        
> ---------------------------------
> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.  Make
> Yahoo! your homepage.
> _______________________________________________
> zymmer4 at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 


The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Dec  3 11:29:49 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 10:29:49 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Test
In-Reply-To: <c63.1fd6db4b.3485a1dc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D026865@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Bill:  Thanks for the link. I had not got a chance to read the mag. yet.


The butchering I was doing, removing engine and transmission mounts, was
on a very badly rusted MGA carcass that I had previously cut in half.
This way I can check the feasibility of an engine swap without damaging
a salvagable car. If I go ahead with this project it will be on a car I
have that is too damaged to be a reasonable restoration candidate and
the work would be reversible.

Kelvin.



________________________________

	From: WSpohn4 at aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4 at aol.com]
	Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 10:16 AM
	To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
	Subject: Re: [Mgs] Test



	In a message dated 12/3/2007 10:10:53 A.M. Pacific Standard
Time, doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

		This from the fiberglass bodied V6 FrankenMGA creator
: )



________________________________


	Well I wouldn't say creator, more someone that took pity on a
previously butchered MGA.

	Did you get the latest MGA! ?

	The editor couldn't resist a warning to purists that they might
be repelled by the sight of the slaughter of innocents in my article....

	I posted it at  http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/f/Jamaican.pdf

	Bill

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Dec  3 11:47:34 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 13:47:34 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Test
Message-ID: <c75.2048d10e.3485a946@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/3/2007 10:29:36 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

The butchering I was  doing, removing engine and transmission mounts, was on 
a very badly rusted MGA  carcass that I had previously cut in half. This way I 
can check the  feasibility of an engine swap without damaging a salvagable 
car. If I go ahead  with this project it will be on a car I have that is too 
damaged to be a  reasonable restoration candidate and the work would be 
reversible.  




  
____________________________________


Good plan. Some transmission can be installed retaining the ears, and some  
don't clear well. I've done MGB OD trans without removing ears before.
 
Bill

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Dec  3 13:11:48 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 15:11:48 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Kumho Tires
Message-ID: <cf8.210e1d47.3485bd04@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/1/2007 9:50:27 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
RonFineEsq at earthlink.net writes:

I am  considering purchasing Kumho Power Star 758 tires size 175/70R14  for
mounting on my original wire wheels.  The best on line price I  have found is
about $35.00 from Treadepot.com.




After searching on line last year and finding Kumhos at a great price from  a 
local tire shop (gotta remember freight charges) I went there to buy  them.  
After waiting nearly half an hour to have the guy even acknowlege my  
presence, while I watched him going with his staff, I left and went to Discount  Tire 
a few blocks away.
 
I told the guy at DT what I wanted and what price I had at the competition  
and he lowered his to beat the other guys price by a couple of bucks and in 
less  than an hour I left with the new Kumhos.
 
Print out your Treadept.com price and drop by Discount Tire and see what  
they will do on the same tire.  It's worth a few minutes drive.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

From bdavispics at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  3 13:39:59 2007
From: bdavispics at yahoo.com (BDavis)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 12:39:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Help identify these Con Rod Bearings
Message-ID: <461572.22744.qm@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Problem solved. 
Thank you Paul... And to Peter for the concise answer!

These bearings were purchased from a reputable ebay dealer. But back
when I bought them he was also offering a set of 10 under bearings
which bore the same numbers. 

Both having the same number (even though his ad stated these to be STD
and the others as 10 under) really threw me for a loop. And I knew you
guys would know the answer. 

Great list!

Thanks again fellows.
Oh, and yes, Peter, they were indeed in one of those old Blue and White
BMC boxes.

Kind regards, Bill 


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Dec  3 13:50:45 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 15:50:45 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Daily Driver Progress
Message-ID: <bd0.20b76ca3.3485c625@aol.com>

Again, all my thanks to those that responded to my questions about the  
overheating I was experiencing with my BGT.
 
Installation of one of Jeff's rebuilt distributors, removal of the front  
mounted electric fan, and installation of an NOS fan and a 165 degree  
thermostat, oh, and setting the timing at 15 BTDC at 1500 RPM have transformed  the car.
 
It cruises nicely at 65 mph on the commute and in 25+ miles, never got  above 
about 175 on the aftermaret temp guage.  I'll probably run the guage  for 
awhile and then replace it with an original CNH.
 
Looks like I'm fixed for a while.
 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  3 15:11:57 2007
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 14:11:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Daily Driver Progress
In-Reply-To: <bd0.20b76ca3.3485c625@aol.com>
Message-ID: <413627.40538.qm@web51312.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Robert,
     Here,here, claim that which is yours, that steed
of steel and manufacture, that which your friends and
compatroits have unleashed unto you this day...
Howard Gentry
1976MG-B tourer
1974B-GT

--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote:

> Again, all my thanks to those that responded to my
> questions about the  
> overheating I was experiencing with my BGT.
>  
> Installation of one of Jeff's rebuilt distributors,
> removal of the front  
> mounted electric fan, and installation of an NOS fan
> and a 165 degree  
> thermostat, oh, and setting the timing at 15 BTDC at
> 1500 RPM have transformed  the car.
>  
> It cruises nicely at 65 mph on the commute and in
> 25+ miles, never got  above 
> about 175 on the aftermaret temp guage.  I'll
> probably run the guage  for 
> awhile and then replace it with an original CNH.
>  
> Looks like I'm fixed for a while.
>  
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
> 
> As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of
> the dual  Skinners Union
> carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet
>  pleasingly formed, 
> perched prominently on top of the intake manifold,
> aching for  experienced hands, 
> the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging
> to be  inspected and 
> adjusted as
> described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop 
> manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************Check out
> AOL's list of 2007's hottest 
> products.
>
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> zymmer4 at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 


The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Dec  3 16:34:25 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 17:34:25 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Daily Driver Progress
References: <bd0.20b76ca3.3485c625@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1a5e01c83605$0c7af420$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<Looks like I'm fixed for a while.>>

Isn't it just AMAZING how well the K.I.S.S. Rule WORKS, RB???

Congrats and LOL!!

From batangelias at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  3 17:13:04 2007
From: batangelias at yahoo.com (Martin C. Galan)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 16:13:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage racing in the Philippines
In-Reply-To: <256566.88707.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <742990.17396.qm@web34215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Howard,

The ref white sedan is an early 1970's Isuzu Bellette GTR DOHC, driven by a Japanese driver Mr. Yamanaka. It's a quick  little thing that was basically a domestic (Japan) release, much like the legendary nissan skyline dacades later. I believe the engine of the GTR would evolve to power the Isuzu/Holden/Opel Gemini and the full blown racing form in the Opel Kadett rally cars in Europe. 

Martin

Howard gentry <zymmer4 at yahoo.com> wrote: Martin,
     What was that small sedan looking thing,just
going like stink?  The film was exciting..your engine
sounded like a big block gaining revs..what a sound.
Howard Gentry
1976MG-B roadster
1974 B-GT

-

       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Dec  4 07:07:20 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 09:07:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
Message-ID: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>

I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC. But, my 70 B is 
really giving me a tussle. I have braided lines in the front and a simple 
rubber line in the back. I've always used a peddle pusher whom would press 
on my command after I would open the screw then I would close it and have 
them release the peddle. It's always worked on the second or third bleed 
after a test drive. But this time it just doesn't want to cooperate. I've 
replaced the MC with a new one from Moss. Has anyone had issues with them? 
Any blow by in the cylinder. Problem is, I don't see any leak, so how do I 
know?
I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go away 
with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive and a 
soft peddle upon braking on the road.
If it is a bad hose, how do I tell? Have the pusher depress with the screw 
closed? Will the rubber actually bulge? Would this cause air to get in the 
line if no leaks are apparent?
I have bled this system 5 times already with no success. I get a firm peddle 
after closing the screw and then go for a test drive and it goes back to 
being soft. Help!



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler

From frankk at intap.net  Tue Dec  4 07:14:47 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 09:14:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005501c83680$09038ac0$13810fce@D3N5Y331>

Jim: I recently helped a friend who was having major issues with his MGC 
brakes and after weeks of total rebuilds of all components the problem was 
traced to the proportioning valve that maintains balence between front and 
rear brakes. The bar inside the valve had positioned itself to one side of 
the valve and would not move thus not allowing half the brakes to be bled or 
operate. We ended up using a spare MGB valve that I had and it solved the 
problem.  It appears to be a unique and rare problem.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Schulte" <schultejim at msn.com>
To: <Mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 9:07 AM
Subject: [Mgs] brakes


> I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC. But, my 70 B is
> really giving me a tussle. I have braided lines in the front and a simple
> rubber line in the back. I've always used a peddle pusher whom would press
> on my command after I would open the screw then I would close it and have
> them release the peddle. It's always worked on the second or third bleed
> after a test drive. But this time it just doesn't want to cooperate. I've
> replaced the MC with a new one from Moss. Has anyone had issues with them?
> Any blow by in the cylinder. Problem is, I don't see any leak, so how do I
> know?
> I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go away
> with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive and 
> a
> soft peddle upon braking on the road.
> If it is a bad hose, how do I tell? Have the pusher depress with the screw
> closed? Will the rubber actually bulge? Would this cause air to get in the
> line if no leaks are apparent?
> I have bled this system 5 times already with no success. I get a firm 
> peddle
> after closing the screw and then go for a test drive and it goes back to
> being soft. Help!
>
>
>
> Jim Schulte
> Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
> Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
> Co-Coordinator MG 2008
> Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler
> _______________________________________________

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Dec  4 07:24:36 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 14:24:36 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002a01c83683$1c404990$0200a8c0@Three>

If I understand you correctly that is what I get on both mine after 'normal' 
bleeding.  I find I have to add a second step which involves an assistant 
pressing down very hard on the pedal then I rapidly open and close each 
caliper nipple in turn.  That always blasts a bit more air out (that normal 
pumping doesn't) and after that they are fine.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go away
> with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive and 
> a
> soft peddle upon braking on the road.

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Tue Dec  4 07:45:34 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 15:45:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] crown & pinion wheels
Message-ID: <00d401c83684$5472ece0$fd58c6a0$@com>

Hi list,

 

I'm looking for crown and pinion wheels for Salisbury axles with ratios of
3.31, 3.08 and 2.97/2.98. If anybody has some lying around in their workshop
and is willing to part with them please gimme a shout offline.

 

Thanks

 

Eric

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Tue Dec  4 07:52:59 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 14:52:59 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7CA@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Is yours the single circuit system, and if so do you have the remote
servo?  I have found that air can get trapped in the servo - ideally it
should be mounted with the air valve at the bottom and the "nose"
pointing up slightly, otherwise air can get trapped in there that
doesn't come out with bleeding.  To solve the problem I had to remove
the mounting nuts for the servo, turn it so that the valve is below the
cylinder (with the pipes still attached), bleed, then return to the
normal mounting position.  Be careful not to kink or damage the lines
while doing this!


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
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From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Tue Dec  4 08:04:26 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 08:04:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EF1F@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I think the key is trying to isolate the area of the brakes where the
symptom first appears or maybe some other sign. My 72B had a similar
problem where air was re-entering the system that I had a hell of a time
finding. But when re-bleeding the system several times, I noticed that
the bleeding of the passenger rear circuit was the one where the stream
picked up air and was a bit weaker ejecting brake fluid. I finally found
an extremely small pin hole on the metal line circling the rear axle -
small enough that there was a very minimal amount of brake fluid
seepage, just enough to mark the hole.

One test you can do is when you start having brake problems again, drive
over to the nearest dirt road (I live on one so its easy for me). Get
going maybe 10 mph or more then hit on the brakes enough to lock them up
and see from the read marks which brakes are working on which ones are
not or are weaker. With a 70B, dual master cylinder, you should still be
able to at least determine if its front or rear brakes. Master cylinder
problems would normally effect both rears, both fronts, or the entire
system. If its line problems, you can isolate the area this way.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of James Schulte
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 7:07 AM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] brakes

I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC. But, my 70 B is
really giving me a tussle. I have braided lines in the front and a
simple
rubber line in the back. I've always used a peddle pusher whom would
press
on my command after I would open the screw then I would close it and
have
them release the peddle. It's always worked on the second or third bleed

after a test drive. But this time it just doesn't want to cooperate.
I've
replaced the MC with a new one from Moss. Has anyone had issues with
them?
Any blow by in the cylinder. Problem is, I don't see any leak, so how do
I
know?
I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go
away
with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive
and a
soft peddle upon braking on the road.
If it is a bad hose, how do I tell? Have the pusher depress with the
screw
closed? Will the rubber actually bulge? Would this cause air to get in
the
line if no leaks are apparent?
I have bled this system 5 times already with no success. I get a firm
peddle
after closing the screw and then go for a test drive and it goes back to

being soft. Help!



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Dec  4 08:17:28 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 10:17:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EF1F@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY116-F40C7389A84A1617C262326DB6D0@phx.gbl>

Dave
Thanks, that's a great suggestion!



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler





>From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
>To: "James Schulte" <schultejim at msn.com>,<Mgs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: [Mgs] brakes
>Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 08:04:26 -0700
>
>I think the key is trying to isolate the area of the brakes where the
>symptom first appears or maybe some other sign. My 72B had a similar
>problem where air was re-entering the system that I had a hell of a time
>finding. But when re-bleeding the system several times, I noticed that
>the bleeding of the passenger rear circuit was the one where the stream
>picked up air and was a bit weaker ejecting brake fluid. I finally found
>an extremely small pin hole on the metal line circling the rear axle -
>small enough that there was a very minimal amount of brake fluid
>seepage, just enough to mark the hole.
>
>One test you can do is when you start having brake problems again, drive
>over to the nearest dirt road (I live on one so its easy for me). Get
>going maybe 10 mph or more then hit on the brakes enough to lock them up
>and see from the read marks which brakes are working on which ones are
>not or are weaker. With a 70B, dual master cylinder, you should still be
>able to at least determine if its front or rear brakes. Master cylinder
>problems would normally effect both rears, both fronts, or the entire
>system. If its line problems, you can isolate the area this way.
>
>David Councill
>67 BGT
>72 B
>
>
>I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC. But, my 70 B is
>really giving me a tussle. I have braided lines in the front and a
>simple
>rubber line in the back. I've always used a peddle pusher whom would
>press
>on my command after I would open the screw then I would close it and
>have
>them release the peddle. It's always worked on the second or third bleed
>
>after a test drive. But this time it just doesn't want to cooperate.
>I've
>replaced the MC with a new one from Moss. Has anyone had issues with
>them?
>Any blow by in the cylinder. Problem is, I don't see any leak, so how do
>I
>know?
>I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go
>away
>with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive
>and a
>soft peddle upon braking on the road.
>If it is a bad hose, how do I tell? Have the pusher depress with the
>screw
>closed? Will the rubber actually bulge? Would this cause air to get in
>the
>line if no leaks are apparent?
>I have bled this system 5 times already with no success. I get a firm
>peddle
>after closing the screw and then go for a test drive and it goes back to
>
>being soft. Help!
>
>
>
>Jim Schulte
>Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
>Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
>Co-Coordinator MG 2008
>Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Dec  4 08:20:30 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 10:20:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <002a01c83683$1c404990$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <BAY116-F36160AD78B04D8D745169BDB6D0@phx.gbl>

Also an interesting suggestion Paul. I will try that first and then go to a 
gravel road as David suggested if they are still not right.



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler





>From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
>To: "James Schulte" <schultejim at msn.com>,<Mgs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] brakes
>Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 14:24:36 -0000
>
>If I understand you correctly that is what I get on both mine after 
>'normal' bleeding.  I find I have to add a second step which involves an 
>assistant pressing down very hard on the pedal then I rapidly open and 
>close each caliper nipple in turn.  That always blasts a bit more air out 
>(that normal pumping doesn't) and after that they are fine.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go away
>>with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive and 
>>a
>>soft peddle upon braking on the road.

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Dec  4 08:29:20 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 10:29:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
Message-ID: <20071204.102920.3084.0.MGBOB@juno.com>

Jim,
   Well, it _should_ be simple and straightforward, yet ofttimes it's
not.
   How old are these hoses?  If they are aged and the inside liner is
sloughing off, it can act as a one-way valve that can cause hard
pedal/soft pedal feel without leaking a drop. The braided lines should
not expand under pedal pressure, but the one at the right might be doing
it.  
   Internal leaks in a MC are not unknown, though uncommon.   The
two-line,  non-servo MCs seem to be more troublesome than others, but
check other things before assigning fault to this.  
   Is the fluid clean in appearance?  If it's black and nasty-looking,
there could be crud in it that causes the cups to fail to seal tight in
the bore.  
   Is there any leakage at the brake inbalance switch? Have you checked
for a pinched metal line on the rear axle?  Any twists in the metal lines
at compression fittings?
    Most of the MGB owners in our club bleed brakes as you do.  I like to
use a syringe (suction bleeding) at each bleed screw.  Both methods work,
but I like to see the fluid as it is pulled out, checking for sediment
and signs of water. 
Bob

On Tue, 04 Dec 2007 09:07:20 -0500 "James Schulte" <schultejim at msn.com>
writes:
> I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC. But, my 70 B 
> is really giving me a tussle. I have braided lines in the front and a 

From peter at nosimport.com  Tue Dec  4 08:57:06 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 09:57:06 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071204095307.035d6218@nosimport.com>

Jim,   If your front wheel bearings have significant wear or run-out, 
then while you drive the rotors wobbling a tad will cause the pads 
and pistons to retract too much, so the pedal requires much more 
travel resulting in a spongy feel.
         Also, rear brake adjustment needs to be set. You should have 
3 or 4 clicks on the lever. More and the wheel cylinder pistons 
likewise retract too much.

         Peter C.
===============
At 08:07 AM 12/4/2007, James Schulte wrote:

>I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC.

SNIP

>I have bled this system 5 times already with no success. I get a firm peddle
>after closing the screw and then go for a test drive and it goes back to
>being soft. Help!
>
>
>
>Jim Schulte

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Dec  4 09:37:21 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 16:37:21 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071204095307.035d6218@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <005d01c83694$08ebf400$0200a8c0@Three>

Run-out gives long initial travel, but not spongy, then after the first pump 
and assuming you have come to a standstill, each successive press of the 
pedal, no long how long you wait, will have a normal pedal feel.

Poor hand brake adjustment also gives a long pedal and no sponginess, but 
you will get that same sensation with every application even at a 
standstill.

With air in the system you get a long travel *and* spongy, but with a couple 
of pumps this will seems to give a normal pedal.  But leaving it just a few 
seconds, even when stationary, the pedal will go long and spongy again.

With bulging hoses you will get near normal travel but sponginess with every 
application.

Of course you could have any combination of the above ...

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Jim,   If your front wheel bearings have significant wear or run-out,
> then while you drive the rotors wobbling a tad will cause the pads
> and pistons to retract too much, so the pedal requires much more
> travel resulting in a spongy feel.

From peter at nosimport.com  Tue Dec  4 09:43:20 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 10:43:20 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <005d01c83694$08ebf400$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20071204095307.035d6218@nosimport.com>
	<005d01c83694$08ebf400$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071204104017.034f2658@nosimport.com>

Paul,
         Agree completely. It seemed that the car was fine until 
driven, not a time factor. Maybe I misunderstood his description, or 
maybe "sponginess" is a little vague.
         I'm just sensitive to this as we spent time bleeding the 
brakes on the race car only to find the closest wheel's bearings had given up.
         Peter C.
=
At 10:37 AM 12/4/2007, Paul Hunt wrote:

>Run-out gives long initial travel, but not spongy, then after the 
>first pump and assuming you have come to a standstill, each 
>successive press of the pedal, no long how long you wait, will have 
>a normal pedal feel.
>
>Poor hand brake adjustment also gives a long pedal and no 
>sponginess, but you will get that same sensation with every 
>application even at a standstill.
>
>With air in the system you get a long travel *and* spongy, but with 
>a couple of pumps this will seems to give a normal pedal.  But 
>leaving it just a few seconds, even when stationary, the pedal will 
>go long and spongy again.
>
>With bulging hoses you will get near normal travel but sponginess 
>with every application.
>
>Of course you could have any combination of the above ...
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>Jim,   If your front wheel bearings have significant wear or run-out,
>>then while you drive the rotors wobbling a tad will cause the pads
>>and pistons to retract too much, so the pedal requires much more
>>travel resulting in a spongy feel.

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Dec  4 11:19:26 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 13:19:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors
Message-ID: <BAY116-F300F7E9B1047405E69629DDB6D0@phx.gbl>

Kelvin
Can you contact me off list please?



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler

From schultejim at msn.com  Tue Dec  4 12:36:33 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 14:36:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20071204104017.034f2658@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-F200FF1028ED59F75FCB1CBDB6D0@phx.gbl>

Peter
At this point, I take all constructive suggestions from all the people like 
you that work on these cars daily. One never knows what may work one time 
and not another. I've been working on mine for over 10 years and it never 
seems to amaze me how finicky they can be.
Safety Fast,

Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler





>From: Peter C <peter at nosimport.com>
>To: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>,        "James Schulte" 
><schultejim at msn.com>, <Mgs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] brakes
>Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2007 10:43:20 -0600
>
>Paul,
>         Agree completely. It seemed that the car was fine until driven, 
>not a time factor. Maybe I misunderstood his description, or maybe 
>"sponginess" is a little vague.
>         I'm just sensitive to this as we spent time bleeding the brakes on 
>the race car only to find the closest wheel's bearings had given up.
>         Peter C.
>=
>At 10:37 AM 12/4/2007, Paul Hunt wrote:
>
>>Run-out gives long initial travel, but not spongy, then after the first 
>>pump and assuming you have come to a standstill, each successive press of 
>>the pedal, no long how long you wait, will have a normal pedal feel.
>>
>>Poor hand brake adjustment also gives a long pedal and no sponginess, but 
>>you will get that same sensation with every application even at a 
>>standstill.
>>
>>With air in the system you get a long travel *and* spongy, but with a 
>>couple of pumps this will seems to give a normal pedal.  But leaving it 
>>just a few seconds, even when stationary, the pedal will go long and 
>>spongy again.
>>
>>With bulging hoses you will get near normal travel but sponginess with 
>>every application.
>>
>>Of course you could have any combination of the above ...

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Tue Dec  4 18:52:52 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 20:52:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001b01c836e1$8c199f10$a44cdd30$@com>

Dual master system with the brake light switch on the cover? If so, set the
pedal free-play with the switch, since you changed the master this
adjustment may not be correct. 

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of James Schulte
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 9:07 AM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] brakes

I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC. But, my 70 B is 
really giving me a tussle. I have braided lines in the front and a simple 
rubber line in the back. I've always used a peddle pusher whom would press 
on my command after I would open the screw then I would close it and have 
them release the peddle. It's always worked on the second or third bleed 
after a test drive. But this time it just doesn't want to cooperate. I've 
replaced the MC with a new one from Moss. Has anyone had issues with them? 
Any blow by in the cylinder. Problem is, I don't see any leak, so how do I 
know?
I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go away 
with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive and a 
soft peddle upon braking on the road.
If it is a bad hose, how do I tell? Have the pusher depress with the screw 
closed? Will the rubber actually bulge? Would this cause air to get in the 
line if no leaks are apparent?
I have bled this system 5 times already with no success. I get a firm peddle

after closing the screw and then go for a test drive and it goes back to 
being soft. Help!



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler
_______________________________________________
steve at coastaldatasystems.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Dec  5 01:55:00 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 08:55:00 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
	<001b01c836e1$8c199f10$a44cdd30$@com>
Message-ID: <006701c8371e$16719c30$0200a8c0@Three>

It's the pedal that operates the switch, so this shouldn't have changed. 
Also problems here usually cause either the brake lights to be on all the 
time (switch needs screwing in a bit) or if it is screwed in too far and 
isn't letting the brakes come off enough then as the fluid expands with heat 
it causes the brakes to jam on.  It would also stop you bleeding either or 
both circuits.  This problem affects both dual and single master systems 
where the brake light switch is on the pedal box or (later cars) in the 
cabin by the pedals.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Dual master system with the brake light switch on the cover? If so, set 
> the
> pedal free-play with the switch, since you changed the master this
> adjustment may not be correct.

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Wed Dec  5 17:37:12 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 19:37:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
In-Reply-To: <006701c8371e$16719c30$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl>
	<001b01c836e1$8c199f10$a44cdd30$@com>
	<006701c8371e$16719c30$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <008a01c837a0$247065a0$6d5130e0$@com>

Not really. I've seen it happen myself, and it's pretty common knowledge
among long time MG folks this side of the pond. The switch does not let the
pedal come all the way out, keeping the piston ever so slightly depressed in
the cylinder and you end up with air in the front calipers which you cannot
get out regardless of bleeding method. But the switch is not depressed, so
brake lights are not illuminated.

I believe I quoted the manual procedure to you a month or so ago. Like I
said, it's actually pretty common over here when overhauling or replacing
the master cylinder. And it's so easy to check it's a shame not to let folks
know that could be the problem with a very simple solution :-) 


--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Paul Hunt
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 3:55 AM
To: Mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brakes

It's the pedal that operates the switch, so this shouldn't have changed

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Dec  6 02:26:28 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 09:26:28 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
References: <BAY116-F31613DB16E7553210E83DFDB6D0@phx.gbl><001b01c836e1$8c199f10$a44cdd30$@com><006701c8371e$16719c30$0200a8c0@Three>
	<008a01c837a0$247065a0$6d5130e0$@com>
Message-ID: <005f01c837ea$1cd6e720$0200a8c0@Three>

Firstly this is incorrect.  The switch is of the 'normally closed' type, and 
when the pedal is operated it moves away from the switch, releasing it and 
lighting the lights i.e. when it is *not* depressed the lights *are* 
illuminated.  When the pedal is released it operates the switch which 
extinguishes the lights.

Secondly I did say that if the switch is incorrectly adjusted it can prevent 
bleeding, but I also said that as it is the *pedal* that operates the 
switch, unless that relationship was disturbed when changing the master (and 
the pedal box *should* go back in the same place if it were correctly fitted 
both before and after) then it is unlikely to be maladjustment of the switch 
that has caused the problem.

I have to say I find your final paragraph, regardless of the smiley, rather 
smug and patronising and not helpful to anyone least of all the person with 
the problem.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> ... But the switch is not depressed, so
> brake lights are not illuminated.

From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Fri Dec  7 08:50:13 2007
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:50:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1196967601.22533.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1196967601.22533.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82F3BA24EC82EF49825F4D277341CE56E4DAFB@naeapaxrez05.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

Group,

	These cars are now so old that most (if not all) have had the
brake light switch replaced at least once.  Who knows if the installer
knew the replacement had to be adjusted....  I would not have known if
not for what I read on this forum.  So, after a new switch install (and
an owner change?), the MGB owner has brake issues that require bleeding.
Bleeding is not successful and so on.
	I believe Steve's E-Mail is right on.  If it is that easy to
check & adjust (and it is), before looking at anything else, to check
the switch adjustment using the repair manual, or if the owner had no
manual, to back the switch off until its not making contact with the
pedal.
	It just seems to me that this is where everyone should start
before they bleed their brakes for the first time or try to solve
problems that could be caused by wrong master cylinder push rod length
or pedal height adjustment.  If I've missed something here, please let
me know.
	Anyone know is a "slightly" misadjusted switch could cause
dragging brakes & possibly warped rotors ?

Thanks, Skip
'74 B  (CB)

From schultejim at msn.com  Fri Dec  7 09:07:22 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 11:07:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <82F3BA24EC82EF49825F4D277341CE56E4DAFB@naeapaxrez05.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Message-ID: <BAY116-F270D0C972DDBDA424CEF8DDB680@phx.gbl>

Let me put this issue to rest. The brake light switch is not the problem. 
I've been the owner for the past 8 years and yes it is a new switch (last 
year)but was adjusted properly before this problem came up. I thank all of 
you for your support and take all suggestions into consideration when trying 
to solve a problem. The problem lies within the lines in this case.

Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler





>From: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian at navy.mil>
>To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brakes
>Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:50:13 -0500
>
>Group,
>
>	These cars are now so old that most (if not all) have had the
>brake light switch replaced at least once.  Who knows if the installer
>knew the replacement had to be adjusted....  I would not have known if
>not for what I read on this forum.  So, after a new switch install (and
>an owner change?), the MGB owner has brake issues that require bleeding.
>Bleeding is not successful and so on.
>	I believe Steve's E-Mail is right on.  If it is that easy to
>check & adjust (and it is), before looking at anything else, to check
>the switch adjustment using the repair manual, or if the owner had no
>manual, to back the switch off until its not making contact with the
>pedal.
>	It just seems to me that this is where everyone should start
>before they bleed their brakes for the first time or try to solve
>problems that could be caused by wrong master cylinder push rod length
>or pedal height adjustment.  If I've missed something here, please let
>me know.
>	Anyone know is a "slightly" misadjusted switch could cause
>dragging brakes & possibly warped rotors ?
>
>Thanks, Skip
>'74 B  (CB)
>_______________________________________________
>schultejim at msn.com
>
>Edit your replies

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec  7 16:11:02 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:11:02 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Looking for tranny - 1275 Midget
Message-ID: <C37F1306.1376E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

My friend tells me her mechanic tells her she needs a new transmision for
her Midget MkIII. I know you can get parts from Moss, but it sounds like he
isn't interested in rebuilding it himself (and I'm not about to volunteer to
get involved). So I am putting out a call for a working tranny, hopefully in
California, ideally in the greater Bay Area.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Fri Dec  7 16:28:31 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 18:28:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <82F3BA24EC82EF49825F4D277341CE56E4DAFB@naeapaxrez05.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
References: <mailman.7.1196967601.22533.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<82F3BA24EC82EF49825F4D277341CE56E4DAFB@naeapaxrez05.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Message-ID: <00db01c83928$e0eaabd0$a2c00370$@com>

I would think you would first notice the problem with the rears, but that is
just my guess.

I've not had the problem in my MG, but if the rotors are turned too thin,
they can warp on most other vehicles. Most rotors have a minimum thickness,
MG spec is .3".

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Christian, Skip
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 10:50 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brakes

Group,
ing here, please let
me know.
	Anyone know is a "slightly" misadjusted switch could cause
dragging brakes & possibly warped rotors ?

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Dec  7 17:29:47 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 18:29:47 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
Message-ID: <4759E57B.7010400@gmail.com>

I used to race an A in Ontario, Canada, and have always loved them. When 
I came off the 2004 tour, I bought this car from a friend.

It's a 1959 MGA with a 1500 Magnette engine. There's a technical problem 
with the title, an error made by the Missouri DOT, but I'm working on that.

It has some rust, but it's all surface rust, no holes or pits. Both 
front fenders have dents from fallen tree limbs, but nothing serious.

It has all the bits and a new soft top and upholstery kit. The dual 
master cylinder is crap. I have around $4000 in the car now.

Best offer over $1000 takes it away, transportation up to you. This is a 
steal.

-The Roxter
--

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Dec  7 18:27:11 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 20:27:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
Message-ID: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck  two
years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw out
bearing again, my driving is such as not to ride the clutch, or keep the
clutch depressed while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had issues with
their clutch? any advise?

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Dec  7 19:16:33 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 20:16:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
In-Reply-To: <000301c83933$48c4c6f0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <4759E57B.7010400@gmail.com>
	<000301c83933$48c4c6f0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <4759FE81.3030800@gmail.com>

Oliver wrote:
> i'm interested.  pictures?  where in ok? 
In Tulsa, on my driveway, midtown.

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/nucars.html

These pictures were taken when I first bought the car. Since, it has been stripped down and the removed parts stored in a metal building. The pictures were taken before the tree-limbs hit the front fenders. I would estimate it would take me about one warm day to pop out the fenders using a a hammer and hand dolly and spraying in primer. 

I hate to sell this car, but I think my big bucks touring days are over and the Dodge I use for cold weather has dropped its transmission, a month after I blew my last $500 on getting it "road-worthy."

I have been fighting a really bad sinus infection for weeks now and have lost too many gigs lying in bed.

-The Roxter
--

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Dec  7 19:24:05 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 20:24:05 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
In-Reply-To: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <475A0045.4000904@gmail.com>

1971-red-mgb wrote:
> o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck  two
> years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw out
> bearing again, my driving is such as not to ride the clutch, or keep the
> clutch depressed while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had issues with
> their clutch? any advise?
I have heard bad things about the carbon TOB, but also about the bearing 
version. My opinion is that the bearing one is better, but only if you 
make sure the adjustment is perfect so it's not spinning going down the 
road. "Opinion" only

-The Roxter
--

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Dec  7 19:35:01 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 21:35:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<475A0045.4000904@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009401c83942$eef864a0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

I've also heard about the roller bearing as being pretty noisy, I rather
stay with the carbon TOB.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Roxter" <rocknatural at gmail.com>
To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>
Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"


> 1971-red-mgb wrote:
> > o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck
two
> > years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw
out
> > bearing again, my driving is such as not to ride the clutch, or keep the
> > clutch depressed while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had
issues with
> > their clutch? any advise?
> I have heard bad things about the carbon TOB, but also about the bearing
> version. My opinion is that the bearing one is better, but only if you
> make sure the adjustment is perfect so it's not spinning going down the
> road. "Opinion" only
>
> -The Roxter
> --
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date:
12/6/2007 11:15 PM

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Dec  8 10:12:37 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2007 11:12:37 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
In-Reply-To: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <475AD085.3020208@ktc.com>

  So you mean that the clutch still works but the TOB is noisy, I guess. 
  TOBs are cheap but what a PITA to change!  I used the B&B unit from 
Moss on my '70B because I'd souped the rebuilt engine up and planned 
some spirited driving.  Never had any problem with it.  Using the 
graphite bushing in the '69 B I have now, no probs after 5+ yrs.

  I'd suggest that you make sure, when you change it out, that all the 
pivot points have no excessive play due to wear.  Maybe the TOB has been 
spinning more than intended.

   CR


1971-red-mgb wrote:
> o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck  two
> years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw out
> bearing again, my driving is such as not to ride the clutch, or keep the
> clutch depressed while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had issues with
> their clutch? any advise?

From mgbob at juno.com  Sat Dec  8 11:04:13 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 13:04:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
Message-ID: <20071208.130413.2752.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

Dan,
  Used as you describe your driving, the TOB should easily last the life
of 1.5 - 2 clutches.
  Recently there have been questions about brakes not releasing
completely and of obstruction in the MC.  I've not heard of this in
clutch MCs, but perhaps?  
  Did it seem to fit well in the throw-out fork when you replaced it?
  How was the fork's pivot bolt?  
  Are the pin & holes in the slave cylinder rods round and in good order?
  It's distressing that there is not an easy fix to TOB problems unless
it's the hydraulics or slave pushrod.
Bob


 
On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 20:27:11 -0500 "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>
writes:
> o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and 
> Beck  two
> years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the 
> throw out
> bearing again, my driving is such as not to ride the clutch, or keep 
> the
> clutch depressed while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had 
> issues with
> their clutch? any advise?
> _______________________________________________
> mgbob at juno.com

From barrie at look.ca  Sat Dec  8 16:47:25 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2007 18:47:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Liquid to clean parts
Message-ID: <E1J19Op-0004nX-TU@delta.look.ca>

Has anybody got any recommendations for some liquid I can put in a 
bucket that will clean rusted/painted parts?  Need it for both steel 
and aluminium bits.
Thank you for your replies - in advance.

In case anyone is interested the "hits" on my British Car Cottage 
Industries web page are not fantastic but still quite 
encouraging.   I am pondering about adding some of our well respected 
specialists - and by that I mean specialists - not the guys who 
always seem to be a "specialist" in whatever it is you want fixed!

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Dec  8 19:09:03 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 20:09:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Liquid to clean parts
References: <E1J19Op-0004nX-TU@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <01e901c83a08$78de19b0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<Has anybody got any recommendations for some liquid I can put in a
bucket that will clean rusted/painted parts?>>

See "Electrolytic How to Article" " in Various Articles at www.justbrits.com ,
Barrie.

I know a Spridgeteer that did his entire early '60s Midget tub !!

Ed

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  9 15:41:47 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 14:41:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
In-Reply-To: <4759FE81.3030800@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <314562.46039.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote:

I have been fighting a really bad sinus infection for weeks now and have lost too many gigs lying in bed.

------------------
Sorry to hear you've been sick, Rocky....

For those that don't know, Rocky plays piano and has toured with various artists over the years. You can see/hear him on this video with JJ Cale, on what I think is one of Cale's most melodic songs, Magnolia. It's crappy video quality - the videographer must have been fairly hammered - but Rocky comes through clearly.... Nice work, Rocky, feel better soon!

Oh, and Rocky - keep whispering in JJ's ear 'Northeast tour, summer of 2008'!




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  9 15:42:57 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 14:42:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
In-Reply-To: <314562.46039.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <156239.51242.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Mebbe I should include the link - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOUgF-85cxk

Dan

Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote: The Roxter  wrote:

I have been fighting a really bad sinus infection for weeks now and have lost too many gigs lying in bed.

------------------
Sorry to hear you've been sick, Rocky....

For those that don't know, Rocky plays piano and has toured with various artists over the years. You can see/hear him on this video with JJ Cale, on what I think is one of Cale's most melodic songs, Magnolia. It's crappy video quality - the videographer must have been fairly hammered - but Rocky comes through clearly.... Nice work, Rocky, feel better soon!

Oh, and Rocky - keep whispering in JJ's ear 'Northeast tour, summer of 2008'!




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver -  What's that smoke? 
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
_______________________________________________
d_dibiase at yahoo.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Dec  9 17:41:22 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 18:41:22 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
In-Reply-To: <314562.46039.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <4759FE81.3030800@gmail.com>
	<314562.46039.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005801c83ac5$6611a5a0$3234f0e0$@com>

Rocky, as a fellow musician, and former sinus sufferer... I have to give you
a bit of advice. I struggled with sinus infections for 20+ years. I did all
the anti-biotics, and the steroids... didn't help. I also had sinus surgery
2 years ago. It lessened the severity... but actually increased the
occurrence of the infections. I went from winter only to all year 'round
infections.

I solved the problem with the advice of a new doctor and $12. 2 words...
neti pot. 

See <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_irrigation> 

No more sinus infections. I use it once a day, unless I'm doing a lot of
flying, them twice a day. I got my neti pot at the hospital's pharmacy... It
came with pre-mixed packets to add to the lukewarm water. 

WST



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan
DiBiase
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 4:42 PM
To: The Roxter; Oliver; mg list
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma

The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote:

I have been fighting a really bad sinus infection for weeks now and have
lost too many gigs lying in bed.

------------------
Sorry to hear you've been sick, Rocky....

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sun Dec  9 21:47:46 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2007 22:47:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
In-Reply-To: <005801c83ac5$6611a5a0$3234f0e0$@com>
References: <4759FE81.3030800@gmail.com>
	<314562.46039.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<005801c83ac5$6611a5a0$3234f0e0$@com>
Message-ID: <475CC4F2.50907@wi.net>

I'll second that Rocky!  Taught with a math teacher from India who 
notice I was having cold and sinus headache problems Popping pseudofed 
as often as directed.  he said to do the nasal irrigation (I just use 
warm water in the shower); expect to get a cold after the first time (I 
don't anymore) but then you should be good to go.  That was 8 years ago 
and it is rare that I have sinus problems.
Hope it helps. Keep on Rockin',
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI


Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
> Rocky, as a fellow musician, and former sinus sufferer... I have to give you
> a bit of advice. I struggled with sinus infections for 20+ years. I did all
> the anti-biotics, and the steroids... didn't help. I also had sinus surgery
> 2 years ago. It lessened the severity... but actually increased the
> occurrence of the infections. I went from winter only to all year 'round
> infections.
>
> I solved the problem with the advice of a new doctor and $12. 2 words...
> neti pot. 
>
> See <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_irrigation> 
>
> No more sinus infections. I use it once a day, unless I'm doing a lot of
> flying, them twice a day. I got my neti pot at the hospital's pharmacy... It
> came with pre-mixed packets to add to the lukewarm water. 
>
> WST

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec 10 02:19:05 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 09:19:05 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Liquid to clean parts
References: <E1J19Op-0004nX-TU@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <02d401c83b0e$fc86e920$0200a8c0@Three>

For steel I'd use elbow grease and a wire brush in a drill.  Bit aggressive 
for alloy, so I'd use paint stripper for the paint and a suitable grade of 
wet and dry for any oxidisation.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Has anybody got any recommendations for some liquid I can put in a
> bucket that will clean rusted/painted parts?  Need it for both steel
> and aluminium bits.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec 10 02:59:24 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 09:59:24 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <000e01c83b20$40e1c7f0$0200a8c0@Three>

A good carbon bearing with correct use *should* last longer than the normal 
life of the clutch friction material.  Two years is very short, and sounds 
like defective components to me.  If it were your driving style then unless 
you are a new driver or have only driven automatics then it would probably 
have happened before.  Is the car new to you?  If so could be some issue 
with the hydraulics.

When I replaced my clutch many years ago (from a collapsed carbon bearing 
despite what I say above) I decided to fit a roller bearing release bearing, 
at significant extra cost.  Shortly after it started squeaking just as I 
took up or released the pressure, then I started reading that these bearings 
need pull-off springs to stop them continually spinning.  Spoke to my 
supplier who claimed he hadn't heard of any problem with these bearings or 
of the pull-off spring.  Then I asked myself just what I went to the extra 
expense for, I've never had a bearing fail before (this car was relatively 
new to me), and when the next time came to change the clutch was I going to 
leave that old bearing in there?  Of course not.  Complete waste of money. 
OTOH I understand the V8 comes with a roller or ball bearing unit as 
standard, so neither would I fit a carbon bearing when that comes due for 
replacement.

But what are the symptoms?

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck 
> two
> years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw out
> bearing again 

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Mon Dec 10 08:28:51 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 10:28:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<000e01c83b20$40e1c7f0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <003701c83b41$5e3258d0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

Paul, I been driving B's since I bought my first one in France in 1966 and
had it shipped to the states, still in packing grease when I picked it up at
the local port, (those were the days)
I've owned this "B" for the last 14 years, two years ago I replaced the
clutch (3 in 1) when my TOB disintegrated, I had ignored the metal on metal
sound for about a 6 months when the TOB finally said enough.
I replaced it with the Moss (3 in 1) clutch kit, about four months ago I
started noticing the annoying grind sound whenever I depressed the clutch,
finally the other day the ,oh so familiar, metal on metal sound reappeared
when depressing the clutch, on the way back to the house I could hardly get
it into gear, but managed to do so by forcing the gear.  Today when I
depress the clutch I distinctly hear the sound of metal on metal grinding,
when I release the clutch the noise stops, I again ordered the ( 3 in 1)
clutch kit from Moss, hopefully this one will last more than 2 years.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>; "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 4:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"


> A good carbon bearing with correct use *should* last longer than the
normal
> life of the clutch friction material.  Two years is very short, and sounds
> like defective components to me.  If it were your driving style then
unless
> you are a new driver or have only driven automatics then it would probably
> have happened before.  Is the car new to you?  If so could be some issue
> with the hydraulics.
>
> When I replaced my clutch many years ago (from a collapsed carbon bearing
> despite what I say above) I decided to fit a roller bearing release
bearing,
> at significant extra cost.  Shortly after it started squeaking just as I
> took up or released the pressure, then I started reading that these
bearings
> need pull-off springs to stop them continually spinning.  Spoke to my
> supplier who claimed he hadn't heard of any problem with these bearings or
> of the pull-off spring.  Then I asked myself just what I went to the extra
> expense for, I've never had a bearing fail before (this car was relatively
> new to me), and when the next time came to change the clutch was I going
to
> leave that old bearing in there?  Of course not.  Complete waste of money.
> OTOH I understand the V8 comes with a roller or ball bearing unit as
> standard, so neither would I fit a carbon bearing when that comes due for
> replacement.
>
> But what are the symptoms?
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck
> > two
> > years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw
out
> > bearing again
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date:
12/9/2007 11:06 AM

From John.Hed at faa.gov  Mon Dec 10 08:34:23 2007
From: John.Hed at faa.gov (John.Hed at faa.gov)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 07:34:23 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
Message-ID: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>

My wife was going to maybe pick out a few things for the MG for Christmas
when she gave me a very good question.  In looking for interior parts for
my 80 MGB, she came across the following variations in the various
catalogs:

Tan, Ochre, Beige, Champaign, Autumn Leaf, Light Brown....

This is incredible!  Did the classic tan interior color really change over
the model years?  What is the right one for my 80?  Or are they all really
the same but every catalog company just call it different names?  I can
imagine that this has been talked about before, so sorry if this is a
repeat.

John Hed
80 MGB-LE

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Mon Dec 10 08:52:31 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 15:52:31 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
References: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7D6@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

"Ochre" was available only for '73 (I think), and is a lighter, yellower
shade of beige than some of the others.  I'm fairly sure those are all
genuinely different shades, although for any given year only one shade
of beige was available.  It's all there in Clausager's book, but I don't
have it to hand right now...


Richard & Sammy ('73 BGT with a nice Ochre interior)
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From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Dec 10 08:49:11 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 09:49:11 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
In-Reply-To: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>
References: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <A2122A4B-BBFD-479B-A8A3-9C490025266D@gmail.com>

They are different colors.

If I had to guess. I'd bet the 80 originally came with the Autumn Leaf  
(darker
brown) and black combination.


On Dec 10, 2007, at 9:34 AM, John.Hed at faa.gov wrote:

> My wife was going to maybe pick out a few things for the MG for  
> Christmas
> when she gave me a very good question.  In looking for interior  
> parts for
> my 80 MGB, she came across the following variations in the various
> catalogs:
>
> Tan, Ochre, Beige, Champaign, Autumn Leaf, Light Brown....
>
> This is incredible!  Did the classic tan interior color really  
> change over
> the model years?  What is the right one for my 80?  Or are they all  
> really
> the same but every catalog company just call it different names?  I  
> can
> imagine that this has been talked about before, so sorry if this is a
> repeat.

From steve at shoyer.com  Mon Dec 10 09:07:52 2007
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 11:07:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
In-Reply-To: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>
References: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <000801c83b46$d36cc6d0$6a0119ac@shoyer.com>

John:

I'm pretty sure that in 1980, it was called Beige (from 1978-1980, at least
in my books).

--Steve (1980 MGB, with "beige" interior)

-----Original Message-----
From: John.Hed at faa.gov
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"

...

Tan, Ochre, Beige, Champaign, Autumn Leaf, Light Brown....

This is incredible!  Did the classic tan interior color really change over
the model years?  What is the right one for my 80? ...

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec 10 09:15:44 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:15:44 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
References: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <014601c83b48$443a88b0$0200a8c0@Three>

There are some different colours there as well as possibly different names 
for the same colour.

'Ochre' is an official trim colour, yellow with a touch of brown.
Ditto 'Beige' which would be a very pale creamy brown.
Ditto 'Autumn Leaf' which is a definite brown.
There was also 'Chestnut' which is an even darker brown.
Tan, Champagne and Light Brown are other peoples interpretation, and hence 
open to interpretation.  To me tan is darker than Beige but lighter than 
Autumn Leaf, light brown probably much the same.  Champagne is very light, 
lighter than Beige to me.

>From Clausager for a 1980 the official trim names were Black or Beige for 
the seats and trim panels, and Black or 'Black and Chestnut' for the 
carpets.  But it varied according to body colour and market, and Ochre and 
Autumn Leaf wouldn't apply.  For a North American Pageant Blue, Russet 
Brown, Brooklands Green and Carmine (red) it would be Beige seats and trim 
panels with Black and Chestnut carpets.  For Vermillion (red), Inca Yellow, 
Snapdragon or White (various flavours) it would be Black and Black 
respectively.  Now I suppose you are going to want to know whether you have 
a Carmine or Vermillion :o)  If it really is a 1980 with the full VIN (i.e. 
with a prefix of GVVDJ2AG) then it is easy as the body colour is given on 
the VIN plate - CAA for Carmine and CML for Vermillion.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> This is incredible!  Did the classic tan interior color really change over
> the model years?  What is the right one for my 80? 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec 10 09:32:07 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:32:07 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<000e01c83b20$40e1c7f0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<003701c83b41$5e3258d0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <015601c83b4a$5e3046e0$0200a8c0@Three>

<hands up>No offence</hands up> :o)

Your first one sounds exactly like what happened to mine, in which just one 
side of the casting had been worn away to the point where the 'ear' broke 
off.  As to why, the pressures from the release arm must have been very 
unequal, possibly through a problem on the pivot of that, or how the arm and 
bearing had been assembled.  At the risk of more insults possibly that 
situation still applies.  Fortunately on mine it hasn't (some 17 years 
later) although I was foolish enough to fit a roller bearing release bearing 
at additional and great expense even though a carbon bearing was in the kit. 
And *that* started squealing slightly just as I release or take up the 
pressure a few months after fitting.  But I've left it to see what happened, 
and it hasn't got any worse although it still does it.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Paul, I been driving B's since I bought my first one in France in 1966 ... 

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 10 10:13:02 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 11:13:02 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] New Austin Yahoo group - AnyThingAustin
Message-ID: <060401c83b4f$ecee8950$6401a8c0@Larry>

I just wanted y'all to know that Vigil has set up a new Yahoo group for Austin
automobiles.  I was talking to him about the lack of a good group or list for
Austins and he volunteered to start one.  Vigil and I will be running it until
he has me up to speed on these things.

Knowing how British car ownership transcends brands, I guess there are a few
of you who may own and/or are fans of Austins.  The group started yesterday
and already there are 13 members.  Frank Clarici has even supplied the first
photo -- that of his '59 A40 Farina.  Thanks, Frank.

So... all are welcome.  The group is called AnyThingAustin.  This is not meant
to take anything away from any present groups -- only to have something for
Austins.  Certainly Austin Healeys and any other Brit car owners/fans are
welcome, too.

Cheers,

Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Dec 10 10:55:59 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 09:55:59 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
In-Reply-To: <OF261C0261.8FD9B47F-ON882573AD.0054DA87-882573AD.00558BA3@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE3E3@kb1.mossmotors.com>

John:

It's not quite as complicated as it appears. This information is correct
for the later 1970 onwards trim kits.

Triumph and MG used different names for the same color.

"Beige" (TR) and "Champagne" (MG) are the same color, sort of a light
golden tan.
"New Tan" (TR) and "Autumn Leaf" (MG) are the same color, a more orange,
deeper tone.

"Ochre" was unique to MG, but was only offered in the 70s. It has proved
unpopular, so currently there are no suppliers of the ochre material.


Typically the 1980 MGB with tan interior would have the "Champagne" seat
and panel upholstery. Although there would be nothing wrong with
installing the more orange "Autumn Leaf" if that were your choice.


There are also a number of aftermarket interior colors to consider.

Victoria British offers complete UK manufactured interior kits in "Tan".
This is a color similar to "Champagne", but with a bit more yellow in
it.

Moss Motors offers similar complete UK manufactured interior kits in
"Light Tan". This color is a bit lighter than the VB kits and is
actually a Triumph "Light Tan" material as used in the early TR6 before
they moved to "New Tan"/"Autumn Leaf".

Just to add more complication. I came up with a color that I called
"Honey Tan". This is a totally non-original color which I chose because
I was being asked for a richer looking interior that would be comparable
to exotic cars such as the Ferrari. The "Honey Tan" color and surface
finish is very similar to the rich leather used in mid 60s Ferrari's and
the carpet chosen to go with it is a warm light brown that complements
the golden tones of the seats, yet is dark enough to not show stains.
The "Honey Tan" interior is only available in the sewn custom deluxe
kits which are made here in California.

I'm hoping this clarifies things. In the hope to further clarify, I have
a brown 1980 MGB and I installed the Champagne seat and panel kits with
a non-original Autumn Leaf molded carpet kit. I like the contrast
between the light seats and darker carpet, and have never liked the
silly "black n tan" carpets that were originally installed in the 1980.


Kelvin







> Behalf Of John.Hed at faa.gov
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 7:34 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
>
> My wife was going to maybe pick out a few things for the MG
> for Christmas when she gave me a very good question.  In
> looking for interior parts for my 80 MGB, she came across the
> following variations in the various
> catalogs:
>
> Tan, Ochre, Beige, Champaign, Autumn Leaf, Light Brown....
>
> This is incredible!  Did the classic tan interior color
> really change over the model years?  What is the right one
> for my 80?  Or are they all really the same but every catalog
> company just call it different names?  I can imagine that
> this has been talked about before, so sorry if this is a repeat.
>
> John Hed
> 80 MGB-LE

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Dec 10 11:19:04 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 10:19:04 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Liquid to clean parts
In-Reply-To: <E1J19Op-0004nX-TU@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE3F4@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Barrie:

You are dealing with different creatures. Paint has to be removed by
solvent or media blast. Rust can be converted if it's a powder coating
or removed by media blast.

Corrosion on aluminium parts is much softer than ferrous oxide and has
to be treated carefully. I'm not up on conversion products for aluminium
components, but carb. cleaner would be a good place to start.

The best process I've found for suspension components is a couple of
days soak in a heated solvent tank (here in California we have to use
aqueous solutions. This soak removes any grease and any loose paint.
Then I media blast to remove the rest of the paint and any corrosion.

For aluminium, you have to use different (much softer) media which
burnishes the part without removing metal.





For small rusty parts such as engine bits and brackets the best stuff
I've used is "Evaporust", but it won't work on painted components.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=47552&Sort
Order=1

This converts the rust and does not damage critical surfaces. I've used
it on lathe components and internal engine parts such as rockers and
timing gears. It also worked really well on an aluminium steering rack
center section.


I'm interested to hear what others are using, as I am still a novice
with all this new eco solvent thing. My last restorations involved a
huge heated caustic tank that would strip the rust off any panel stuck
in it. (no aluminium tho') Them were the good old days, and my old work
mates are slowly dying off from cancer and other complications.

Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net
> [mailto:owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
> Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 3:47 PM
> To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Liquid to clean parts
>
> Has anybody got any recommendations for some liquid I can put
> in a bucket that will clean rusted/painted parts?  Need it
> for both steel and aluminium bits.
> Thank you for your replies - in advance.
>
> In case anyone is interested the "hits" on my British Car
> Cottage Industries web page are not fantastic but still quite
> encouraging.   I am pondering about adding some of our well respected
> specialists - and by that I mean specialists - not the guys
> who always seem to be a "specialist" in whatever it is you want fixed!
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com

From John.Hed at faa.gov  Mon Dec 10 11:32:07 2007
From: John.Hed at faa.gov (John.Hed at faa.gov)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 10:32:07 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE3E3@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <OF9BC8CE5E.4EDC401D-ON882573AD.0064F6C6-882573AD.0065D146@faa.gov>

Thanks Kevin,

I guess unless you are really a hard core perfectionist for authenticity,
the lesson learned is to order the samples and pick one you like!
I talked to you before about this, but I may just go for a gray interior!
I've always like the black/gray combo ever since I saw a BEAUTIFUL black
and gray MG-TC or TD at a show in Los Angeles about 1988.

John Hed
1980 MGB-LE

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Dec 10 11:39:03 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 10:39:03 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
In-Reply-To: <OF9BC8CE5E.4EDC401D-ON882573AD.0064F6C6-882573AD.0065D146@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE406@kb1.mossmotors.com>

John:

I'm a firm believer in sticking with original, unless you have a good
reason not to.

Personal taste is a splendid reason.

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: John.Hed at faa.gov [mailto:John.Hed at faa.gov]
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:32 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
>
> Thanks Kevin,
>
> I guess unless you are really a hard core perfectionist for
> authenticity, the lesson learned is to order the samples and
> pick one you like!
> I talked to you before about this, but I may just go for a
> gray interior!
> I've always like the black/gray combo ever since I saw a
> BEAUTIFUL black and gray MG-TC or TD at a show in Los Angeles
> about 1988.
>
> John Hed
> 1980 MGB-LE

From dennis_cox at appsig.com  Mon Dec 10 11:44:30 2007
From: dennis_cox at appsig.com (COX, DENNIS)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 10:44:30 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
In-Reply-To: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F32B4@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>

My take on the clutch....  The carbon tob is fine..   But I experienced
premature wear from the clutch arm being wobbly.  The bushing wears and
the pivot bolt wears.  Both are available. I installed the new bushing
and bolt and when I tightened it it pinched the arm enough so it
wouldn't move.  I found the length to be about 1/16 or so shorter.
Junk...   Grrr..  I put it together with the new bushing and old bolt.
It still is wobbly but not as quite bad as it was.  The now bolt came
from Moss and I returned it.  So what do we do here?

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
1971-red-mgb
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 5:27 PM
To: MG LIST
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"

o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck
two
years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw
out
bearing again, my driving is such as not to ride the clutch, or keep the
clutch depressed while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had
issues with
their clutch? any advise?
_______________________________________________

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Dec 10 11:56:25 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 10:56:25 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
In-Reply-To: <4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F32B4@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE415@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Dennis:

Could you please clarify on what car you had a problem and when.
We specify the design of this bolt and if there are any problems I need
to follow up on them.

The stepped portion of the bolt should be 1.39".



Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer,  Moss Motors, Ltd.
www.mossmotors.com
440 Rutherford Street
Goleta, CA 93117
Phone : 805.679.7023
Fax:      805.692.2520
E-mail: doddk at mossmotors.com



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of COX, DENNIS
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:45 AM
> To: 1971-red-mgb; MG LIST
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
>
> My take on the clutch....  The carbon tob is fine..   But I
> experienced
> premature wear from the clutch arm being wobbly.  The bushing
> wears and the pivot bolt wears.  Both are available. I
> installed the new bushing and bolt and when I tightened it it
> pinched the arm enough so it wouldn't move.  I found the
> length to be about 1/16 or so shorter.
> Junk...   Grrr..  I put it together with the new bushing and old bolt.
> It still is wobbly but not as quite bad as it was.  The now
> bolt came from Moss and I returned it.  So what do we do here?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of 1971-red-mgb
> Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 5:27 PM
> To: MG LIST
> Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
>
> o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss
> Borg and Beck two years ago, yesterday the clutch went out
> again, sounds like the throw out bearing again, my driving is
> such as not to ride the clutch, or keep the clutch depressed
> while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had issues with
> their clutch? any advise?
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Dec 10 12:03:01 2007
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 14:03:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
Message-ID: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

Listers,

Does any info exist on the net regarding the dismantling, repair and
reassembly of the heater blower motor for a '71 MGB?

Anyone out there have a good working unit or a source for one?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Dec 10 12:24:54 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 14:24:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Valves
Message-ID: <E1J1oGi-0006Pz-LU@alpha.look.ca>

Is anyone in the market for valves for the 1.8L or Rover V8 engine? I 
may be ordering from a remanufacturer and the more the better price

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Mon Dec 10 12:54:16 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 14:54:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Liquid to clean parts
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1197313202.24616.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF053B7C49.87DD1643-ON852573AD.006CCB68-852573AD.006D3C1F@exxonmobil.com>

I too use Evaporust and find it to work very well on rusted parts, best to
clean up parts with a wire brush if possible first.  I think I have a few
pieces soaking in it as  I type.

For a parts cleaner I use a water-based solvent from Spray 9.  It comes in
a 4 L bottle and you dilute it with water.  I find it works quite well
(especially when hot) and has no odour, something that is important to my
wife.

Mark
73 MGBGT
Corunna, Ont.

From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>

The best process I've found for suspension components is a couple of days
soak in a heated solvent tank (here in California we have to use aqueous
solutions. This soak removes any grease and any loose paint. Then I media
blast to remove the rest of the paint and any corrosion.

For aluminium, you have to use different (much softer) media which
burnishes the part without removing metal.

For small rusty parts such as engine bits and brackets the best stuff I've
used is "Evaporust", but it won't work on painted components.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=47552&Sort
Order=1

This converts the rust and does not damage critical surfaces. I've used it
on lathe components and internal engine parts such as rockers and timing
gears. It also worked really well on an aluminium steering rack center
section.


I'm interested to hear what others are using, as I am still a novice with
all this new eco solvent thing. My last restorations involved a huge heated
caustic tank that would strip the rust off any panel stuck in it. (no
aluminium tho') Them were the good old days, and my old work mates are
slowly dying off from cancer and other complications.

Kelvin Dodd

From bdavispics at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 10 14:45:08 2007
From: bdavispics at yahoo.com (BDavis)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 13:45:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Tonneau question / MG?? Not sure!
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1197140402.30877.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <211849.98782.qm@web36715.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi guys... Can anyone help me identify the tonneau in these photos? 
See: http://www.billdavis.org/MG/
Or do the numbers below match anything in your old AMCO catalogs? 

It's 53" wide x 62" long and in a box without any information.. except
that on the inside of the tonneau there's a small tag which reads 2652
Black 2653 White. And someone long ago had written in felt pen on the
end-flap of the box; "MG TD Tonneau Top". Also in ball-point pen is
written "BILL  AS 2012"

The box has had a hard life and is no help! 
The tonneau is brand new - excellent condition.

I'm 99% positive that it is NOT for a TD!
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks ..... Bill


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From steve at shoyer.com  Mon Dec 10 15:57:03 2007
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 17:57:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>

Ed, take a look at http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater/ for
some pictures and text.

I need to replace my heater core - I've had a new one for over a year, but I
really am not looking forward to the job.

--Steve

-----Original Message-----
From:  Ed Woods
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor

Listers,

Does any info exist on the net regarding the dismantling, repair and
reassembly of the heater blower motor for a '71 MGB?...

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Mon Dec 10 17:32:28 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 19:32:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <010601c83b8d$4f8912f0$ee9b38d0$@com>

Not MG but I had a local electrical shop rebuild the heater motor on my '60
Series II. It's probably the same motor.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Ed Woods
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 2:03 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor

Listers,

Does any info exist on the net regarding the dismantling, repair and
reassembly of the heater blower motor for a '71 MGB?

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Dec 10 19:03:40 2007
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 21:03:40 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
Message-ID: <004601c83b9a$0da55300$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

Listers,

Well, the motor's out and partially dismantled: two major pieces. Does the 
armature simply pull out of its half of the outer case? Seems to be great 
resistance to separation of these two parts. The bearing on the drive end of 
the armature shaft appears to be binding. I'd like to lube it, then 
reassemble the whole thing.and give it a try again. When reassembling, how 
are the brushes fit to the comm? Is the armature assembled to the brush 
rigging and then inserted into the half of the case containing the field 
magnets and drive end bearing? Anyone out there done this?

Thanks,

Ed 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Dec 10 20:37:56 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 21:37:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <004601c83b9a$0da55300$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
	<004601c83b9a$0da55300$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <20071211033843.CEC68187A16@autox.team.net>

At 09:03 PM 12/10/2007 -0500, Ed Woods wrote:
>....
>Well, the motor's out and partially dismantled: two major pieces. 
>Does the armature simply pull out of its half of the outer case?

Yes.  It should have a plain smooth shaft passing through a 
self-aligning spherical bronze bushings at both ends (blind in the tail end).

>Seems to be great resistance to separation of these two parts. The 
>bearing on the drive end of the armature shaft appears to be 
>binding. I'd like to lube it, then reassemble the whole thing.and 
>give it a try again.

A common malady is a heater motor that squeels loudly when it's 
cold.  A drop of oil on the bronze bushings will often stop the 
noise, at least for a while.  If it has been running dry too long and 
is a little worn the noise may come back again after more running 
time and teh next cold snap.

>When reassembling, how are the brushes fit to the comm? Is the 
>armature assembled to the brush rigging and then inserted into the 
>half of the case containing the field magnets and drive end bearing? 
>Anyone out there done this?

I have pictures of the overhaul and reassembly here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ht_mtr_1.htm

Note that MGA and early MGB use series wound motors the will run the 
same direction regardless of electrical power polarity.  Reversing 
rotation of these motors requires swapping the field wire connections 
inside.  These motors usually have two black wires, and it doesnit 
care which is power or ground.

Later MGB motors have colored wires and will change direction of 
rotation if you change electrical input polarity.  I don't remember 
if they may be parallel wired with a phase winding, or perhaps have 
permanent magnet field magnets.  The carbon brushes are much the same 
and can be installed with the same techniques.  Pay attention to 
color codes for plugging into power, as reverse running greatly 
reduces the air flow output.  The cage fan should rotate with the 
sharp outer edge of the fins going forward to throw air out and 
forward faster than the fan rotation speed.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Dec 11 11:40:00 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 10:40:00 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Color definition for "tan"
In-Reply-To: <00ea01c83bd5$80f71b50$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE61A@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Paul Hunt politely pointed out that the both the factory parts books and
Clausager refer to the late model MGB interior color as "Beige", not
"Champagne".

This is correct, and I was incorrect in stating that MG used the term
"Champagne" and TR, "Beige" for the same trim color.

Many U.S. British Leyland dealers carried both MG and Jaguar, so it is
possible that the use of the term "Champagne" came from that connection
as that term is used for Jaguar trim. My memory is that when the new
color appeared, at least in my area it was referred to as "Champagne" by
the U.S dealers and stockists that I was involved with from 1979
onwards. Any information one way or the other is appreciated.


Kelvin.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 11 14:43:13 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:43:13 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
Message-ID: <C3844471.138EB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah... The motor, no big deal. The core... ...eek. Strong men quail...
Removal is merely a PITA and not very well documented. Replacement and
refitting of everything you had to disconnect is nearly impossible. In fact,
I would say it IS impossible. The two times I have done it I had to
kludge/customize solutions in order to get everything back together -- there
is no physical way to reattach certain parts with the access available
inside the car. I think the factory must have installed the heater parts
before the dash and windscreen.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/10/07 2:57 PM, Steve Shoyer at steve at shoyer.com wrote:

> Ed, take a look at http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater/ for
> some pictures and text.
> 
> I need to replace my heater core - I've had a new one for over a year, but I
> really am not looking forward to the job.
> 
> --Steve
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:  Ed Woods
> Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Does any info exist on the net regarding the dismantling, repair and
> reassembly of the heater blower motor for a '71 MGB?...

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Dec 11 18:12:11 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 19:12:11 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
Message-ID: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com>

This week I got one of those class action law suit forms.  Apparently,  
CC companies were
charging too much for overseas transactions. It got left on the counter.

Tonight we were cleaning. She found it and said, "you didn't make any  
foreign transactions
did you?".

Nope, why?

We'll there's this form ...

 From 1996 to 2006 if you traveled outside the US for less than a  
week, or had foreign transactions
of less that $2500.

Oh, well, I bought something from Mechtech 4 years ago or so. Don't  
even remember what it
was. Something about $100.

I have a refund ID, I fill out a simple form and I'm getting $25 back.

Wild.

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Tue Dec 11 18:24:04 2007
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 20:24:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
Message-ID: <31287268.285491197422644903.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

Please let us know when you get the $25
---- Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote: 
> This week I got one of those class action law suit forms.  Apparently,  
> CC companies were
> charging too much for overseas transactions. It got left on the counter.
> 
> Tonight we were cleaning. She found it and said, "you didn't make any  
> foreign transactions
> did you?".
> 
> Nope, why?
> 
> We'll there's this form ...
> 
>  From 1996 to 2006 if you traveled outside the US for less than a  
> week, or had foreign transactions
> of less that $2500.
> 
> Oh, well, I bought something from Mechtech 4 years ago or so. Don't  
> even remember what it
> was. Something about $100.
> 
> I have a refund ID, I fill out a simple form and I'm getting $25 back.
> 
> Wild.
> _______________________________________________
> melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Tue Dec 11 18:25:04 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:25:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
In-Reply-To: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EF90@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I got one of those a week or so ago and almost forgot about it. I did
have some small overseas transactions over the years, even bought stuff
from Mechtech (pistons I believe).

Thanks for reminding me. The form was lying on my desk. I even started
using what I thought was its envelope for some notes. Looks like it was
actually the back of the form so I went to the website and filed online
instead.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Paul Root
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:12 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions

This week I got one of those class action law suit forms.  Apparently,
CC companies were
charging too much for overseas transactions. It got left on the counter.

Tonight we were cleaning. She found it and said, "you didn't make any
foreign transactions
did you?".

Nope, why?

We'll there's this form ...

 From 1996 to 2006 if you traveled outside the US for less than a
week, or had foreign transactions
of less that $2500.

Oh, well, I bought something from Mechtech 4 years ago or so. Don't
even remember what it
was. Something about $100.

I have a refund ID, I fill out a simple form and I'm getting $25 back.

Wild.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 11 19:25:53 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:25:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
In-Reply-To: <31287268.285491197422644903.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <576835.7127.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I got this letter too.  When I saw how much
information the application letter wanted I decided
that my privacy was worth more than the $25.  I tore
the letter up and trashed it.

rick

--- melfrankus at carolina.rr.com wrote:

> Please let us know when you get the $25
> ---- Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote: 
> > This week I got one of those class action law suit
> forms.  Apparently,  
> > CC companies were
> > charging too much for overseas transactions. It
> got left on the counter.
> > 
> > Tonight we were cleaning. She found it and said,
> "you didn't make any  
> > foreign transactions
> > did you?".
> > 
> > Nope, why?
> > 
> > We'll there's this form ...
> > 
> >  From 1996 to 2006 if you traveled outside the US
> for less than a  
> > week, or had foreign transactions
> > of less that $2500.
> > 
> > Oh, well, I bought something from Mechtech 4 years
> ago or so. Don't  
> > even remember what it
> > was. Something about $100.
> > 
> > I have a refund ID, I fill out a simple form and
> I'm getting $25 back.
> > 
> > Wild.
> > _______________________________________________
> > melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
> > 
> > Edit your replies
> > 
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 11 19:26:49 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:26:49 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
In-Reply-To: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C38486E9.1390F%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yep, got the same thing. I actually travelled to Spain in that time period
so had plenty of transactions, but no documentation at this point. So I will
be happy with the $25. I filed online.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/11/07 5:12 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb at gmail.com wrote:

> This week I got one of those class action law suit forms.  Apparently,
> CC companies were
> charging too much for overseas transactions. It got left on the counter.
> 
> Tonight we were cleaning. She found it and said, "you didn't make any
> foreign transactions
> did you?".
> 
> Nope, why?
> 
> We'll there's this form ...
> 
>  From 1996 to 2006 if you traveled outside the US for less than a
> week, or had foreign transactions
> of less that $2500.
> 
> Oh, well, I bought something from Mechtech 4 years ago or so. Don't
> even remember what it
> was. Something about $100.
> 
> I have a refund ID, I fill out a simple form and I'm getting $25 back.
> 
> Wild.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Dec 11 20:06:04 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 21:06:04 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
In-Reply-To: <576835.7127.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <576835.7127.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F756ADF0-2B81-446E-B1CC-7AA158A20979@gmail.com>

Mine asked for name and address. That's it.
And they already gave me a refund number.


On Dec 11, 2007, at 8:25 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> I got this letter too.  When I saw how much
> information the application letter wanted I decided
> that my privacy was worth more than the $25.  I tore
> the letter up and trashed it.
>
> rick
>
> --- melfrankus at carolina.rr.com wrote:
>
>> Please let us know when you get the $25
>> ---- Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> This week I got one of those class action law suit
>> forms.  Apparently,
>>> CC companies were
>>> charging too much for overseas transactions. It
>> got left on the counter.
>>>
>>> Tonight we were cleaning. She found it and said,
>> "you didn't make any
>>> foreign transactions
>>> did you?".
>>>
>>> Nope, why?
>>>
>>> We'll there's this form ...
>>>
>>> From 1996 to 2006 if you traveled outside the US
>> for less than a
>>> week, or had foreign transactions
>>> of less that $2500.
>>>
>>> Oh, well, I bought something from Mechtech 4 years
>> ago or so. Don't
>>> even remember what it
>>> was. Something about $100.
>>>
>>> I have a refund ID, I fill out a simple form and
>> I'm getting $25 back.
>>>
>>> Wild.
>>> _______________________________________________

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Dec 11 20:48:33 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 22:48:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
Message-ID: <00a301c83c71$ed086320$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

My friend's wife asked me for assistance locating a replacement 
steering wheel for their '72 Mini. All she can find are 13" steering 
wheels - they'd like something a little bigger.

Moss Motors has a "New MINI" web page but I don't see anything for 
real Mini's. We can only find 13" steering wheels at MiniMania.

Any other places to look?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Dec 11 18:30:32 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 19:30:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
References: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <032801c83c5e$96ba18f0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

I got one also, Paul.

<<or had foreign transactions of less that $2500.>>

Which really IRKS me because it would cost me a small fortune to go thru my
receipts, add it up (and it WOULD be WAY over $2500) and then present a claim
for more than the $25.

Mine's already sent in<G>!

Ed

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Dec 12 00:06:32 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 01:06:32 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
In-Reply-To: <00a301c83c71$ed086320$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
References: <00a301c83c71$ed086320$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <475F8878.2010206@wi.net>

Eric J Russell wrote:
> My friend's wife asked me for assistance locating a replacement 
> steering wheel for their '72 Mini. All she can find are 13" steering 
> wheels - they'd like something a little bigger.
>
> Moss Motors has a "New MINI" web page but I don't see anything for 
> real Mini's. We can only find 13" steering wheels at MiniMania.
>
> Any other places to look?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
>
>   
Eric,

Try:  http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/our-products/your-car/default.aspx
and then find the car.  They're not inexpensive!  They do make a nice 
John Cooper signature wheel in 14" or if you surf the site they have 
others that are cheaper.

There used to be a U.S. site but they now direct you to FinishLine and 
they don't see to have the selection.  Maybe someone knows a U.S. 
distributor.  Barney, who is the chap at the DuPage swap meet who 
handles steering wheels?

Let us know what you find.
Regards,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Dec 11 20:46:25 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 21:46:25 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
References: <576835.7127.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<F756ADF0-2B81-446E-B1CC-7AA158A20979@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <019001c83c71$9241b590$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<And they already gave me a refund number.>>

Me also.  Tick a box, stuff in their postage paid envelope and put in mail
box.

'Course reading the entire mess was a PITA<G>!!

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Wed Dec 12 02:14:10 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:14:10 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
References: <00a301c83c71$ed086320$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7D9@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Mountney make a range of nice steering wheels that are quite a lot
cheaper than Moto-Lita.  They sell separate rims and hubs, so buy a hub
that fits your Mini and then any wheel will fit that hub (range from 10"
to 14" in vinyl, leather and wood with different spoke styles).  You can
get them from (amongst others) http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk in the
UK, but there are bound to be US distributors that will be cheaper for
you.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by
return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use
or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any
delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not
guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
the UK Companies Act 1985;
PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water
Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
7770 19)
PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Dec 12 04:27:29 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 11:27:29 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
References: <C3844471.138EB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <009d01c83cb2$a6ca7330$0200a8c0@Three>

Watched The Garage on cable last night where they had to replace the heater 
core on a Mercedes - the whole of the dashboard and centre console had to 
come out.  Took five minutes to get the old core out and the new core in to 
the heater unit, and two days to strip and rebuild the interior.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Yeah... The motor, no big deal. The core... ...eek. Strong men quail...

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 12 06:57:44 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 07:57:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
References: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com>
	<032801c83c5e$96ba18f0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <004f01c83cc6$f9189c70$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <shop at justbrits.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions


I got one also, Paul.

<<or had foreign transactions of less that $2500.>>

Which really IRKS me because it would cost me a small fortune to go thru my
receipts, add it up (and it WOULD be WAY over $2500) and then present a 
claim
for more than the $25.

Mine's already sent in<G>!

Ed
_______________________________________________

You should have read it closer, Ed.  For the second option you only needed 
to tell them how many days you were there and they would determine your 
refund using "average" spending patterns, not "your" spending.

My wife and I were in Europe 8 times during that period and I'll be darned 
if I will chase all of those records.  You only need to supply records for 
the third option.

Larry 

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Dec 12 07:21:54 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:21:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <C3844471.138EB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
	<C3844471.138EB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1J2Sed-00052n-N2@beta.look.ca>

I found that to make the controls work properly, that is shut all the 
way, I had to get an extra pair of hands to hold the flap shut while 
I clamped  the cable down.  You can get it all working properly but 
boy! is it tricky!  One thing I would do is go and buy GOOD cables 
and not use the garbage that comes with the vehicle.  I can get 
fantastic stuff for just a few dollars


At 04:43 PM 12/11/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>Yeah... The motor, no big deal. The core... ...eek. Strong men quail...
>Removal is merely a PITA and not very well documented. Replacement and
>refitting of everything you had to disconnect is nearly impossible. In fact,
>I would say it IS impossible. The two times I have done it I had to
>kludge/customize solutions in order to get everything back together -- there
>is no physical way to reattach certain parts with the access available
>inside the car. I think the factory must have installed the heater parts
>before the dash and windscreen.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>on 12/10/07 2:57 PM, Steve Shoyer at steve at shoyer.com wrote:
>
> > Ed, take a look at http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater/ for
> > some pictures and text.
> >
> > I need to replace my heater core - I've had a new one for over a 
> year, but I
> > really am not looking forward to the job.
> >
> > --Steve
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:  Ed Woods
> > Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > Does any info exist on the net regarding the dismantling, repair and
> > reassembly of the heater blower motor for a '71 MGB?...
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Dec 12 07:32:10 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:32:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7D9@sv-lon-exch1.Penspe n.com>
References: <00a301c83c71$ed086320$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
	<76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF7D9@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <E1J2Seh-00052n-Rb@beta.look.ca>

If you go to my web site "British Car Cottage Industries" at 
www.britcot.com you will see that there is a chap who makes steering 
wheels to order and his prices look good

At 04:14 AM 12/12/2007, Gosling, Richard wrote:
>Mountney make a range of nice steering wheels that are quite a lot
>cheaper than Moto-Lita.  They sell separate rims and hubs, so buy a hub
>that fits your Mini and then any wheel will fit that hub (range from 10"
>to 14" in vinyl, leather and wood with different spoke styles).  You can
>get them from (amongst others) http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk in the
>UK, but there are bound to be US distributors that will be cheaper for
>you.
>
>
>Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
>   ________________________________________________________________________
>This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
>privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by
>return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use
>or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
>Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
>The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
>transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any
>delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not
>guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
>this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
>The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
>communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
>the UK Companies Act 1985;
>PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water
>Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
>7770 19)
>PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
>Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
>19)
>(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
>divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
>of Penspen Limited)
>MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
>Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
>537 8635 08)
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Wed Dec 12 07:46:27 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:46:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <mailman.38055.1197450652.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF6C7160F1.702024D0-ON852573AF.0050B84A-852573AF.00512827@exxonmobil.com>

Gee, I didn't have any problem either removing or reinstalling the heater
assembly.  I did have to thread the cable attached to the heater unit in
first and then go inside the car to make sure it was in the right spot
before finally pushing the unit into place, but otherwise found
reinstalling it to be no big deal.

Mark
73 MGBGT
80 Spitfire 1500


Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor

Yeah... The motor, no big deal. The core... ...eek. Strong men
quail...Removal is merely a PITA and not very well documented. Replacement
and refitting of everything you had to disconnect is nearly impossible. In
fact, I would say it IS impossible. The two times I have done it I had to
kludge/customize solutions in order to get everything back together --
there is no physical way to reattach certain parts with the access
available inside the car. I think the factory must have installed the
heater parts before the dash and windscreen.

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149

> -----Original Message-----
> Does any info exist on the net regarding the dismantling, repair and
reassembly of the heater blower motor for a '71 MGB?...
--Steve

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Dec 12 09:25:07 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:25:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <OF6C7160F1.702024D0-ON852573AF.0050B84A-852573AF.00512827@exxonmobil.com>
References: <mailman.38055.1197450652.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<OF6C7160F1.702024D0-ON852573AF.0050B84A-852573AF.00512827@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Mine was also not overly difficult and I installed it like Mark
described. But one key factor was the fact that the engine was out of
the car as well as well as the steel hood. So I ended up standing in the
engine compartment as I wrestled the heater assembly back in place.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor

Gee, I didn't have any problem either removing or reinstalling the
heater
assembly.  I did have to thread the cable attached to the heater unit in
first and then go inside the car to make sure it was in the right spot
before finally pushing the unit into place, but otherwise found
reinstalling it to be no big deal.

Mark
73 MGBGT
80 Spitfire 1500

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Dec 12 10:28:11 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:28:11 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
In-Reply-To: <00a301c83c71$ed086320$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE7C0@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Eric:

The Motolita and Moss Tourist Trophy steering wheels both have the same
bolt pattern and center design. You will need to get a hub to fit your
Mini. The 1958-'69 Mini spline and hub taper are the same as the MGA and
TR2-3B. You can use Moss #454-337 which is the MGA hub. It just comes
with an MG emblem instead of a Mini one.

Then you can choose any of the Motolita or Tourist Trophy steering
wheels in 14 or 15". Moss only carries these wheels in a flat design. If
you need a dished wheel you will have to buy elsewhere till we get a new
shipment early next year.

Hope this helps



Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Eric J Russell
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:49 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
>
> My friend's wife asked me for assistance locating a
> replacement steering wheel for their '72 Mini. All she can
> find are 13" steering wheels - they'd like something a little bigger.
>
> Moss Motors has a "New MINI" web page but I don't see
> anything for real Mini's. We can only find 13" steering
> wheels at MiniMania.
>
> Any other places to look?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Dec 12 10:32:22 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:32:22 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <009d01c83cb2$a6ca7330$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CE7C1@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Same thing with a BMW2002. We MGB owners should be happy!




Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Paul Hunt
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 3:27 AM
> To: Max Heim; MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor
>
> Watched The Garage on cable last night where they had to
> replace the heater core on a Mercedes - the whole of the
> dashboard and centre console had to come out.  Took five
> minutes to get the old core out and the new core in to the
> heater unit, and two days to strip and rebuild the interior.
>
> PaulH.

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Dec 12 11:42:44 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 13:42:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <OF6C7160F1.702024D0-ON852573AF.0050B84A-852573AF.00512827@
	exxonmobil.com>
References: <mailman.38055.1197450652.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<OF6C7160F1.702024D0-ON852573AF.0050B84A-852573AF.00512827@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <E1J2WdN-0000Jg-6Y@alpha.look.ca>

Mark,

Some earlier models were not so friendly !  When I did the cut 
everything was easy - and I later found out that the factory had made 
similar mods to later models.  But the big thing is that you may 
think your heater is A OK but it isn't.  For instance your air flow 
may suck (I mean not blow well!), your flapper is not closing 
tightly, or your water flow is restricted.


At 09:46 AM 12/12/2007, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote:
>Gee, I didn't have any problem either removing or reinstalling the heater
>assembly.  I did have to thread the cable attached to the heater unit in
>first and then go inside the car to make sure it was in the right spot
>before finally pushing the unit into place, but otherwise found
>reinstalling it to be no big deal.
>
>Mark
>73 MGBGT
>80 Spitfire 1500
>
>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor
>
>Yeah... The motor, no big deal. The core... ...eek. Strong men
>quail...Removal is merely a PITA and not very well documented. Replacement
>and refitting of everything you had to disconnect is nearly impossible. In
>fact, I would say it IS impossible. The two times I have done it I had to
>kludge/customize solutions in order to get everything back together --
>there is no physical way to reattach certain parts with the access
>available inside the car. I think the factory must have installed the
>heater parts before the dash and windscreen.
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > Does any info exist on the net regarding the dismantling, repair and
>reassembly of the heater blower motor for a '71 MGB?...
>--Steve
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com  

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Wed Dec 12 12:09:57 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 14:09:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <E1J2WdN-0000Jg-6Y@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <OF046728EB.C244D301-ON852573AF.0068C0E3-852573AF.006947FB@exxonmobil.com>

I found the same thing Barrie, that getting the cables working the flapper
and heater valve properly were the really challenges, another set of hands
is almost required, but no room for them.  It took more effort to get the
cable clamped down and working properly than to reinstall the heater.  I,
like David, removed the engine first before tackling the heater.

Mark

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Dec 12 12:15:29 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 13:15:29 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
References: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com><032801c83c5e$96ba18f0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<004f01c83cc6$f9189c70$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <109301c83cf3$5c405aa0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Aye, THERE's the rub, Larry/

<<For the second option you only needed to tell them how many days you were
there and they would determine your refund using "average" spending patterns,
not "your" spending.>>

Have NOT "been" there.  Forget I sell PARTS???    LOL

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 12 17:03:20 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 18:03:20 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
References: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com><032801c83c5e$96ba18f0$6501a8c0@actualshop><004f01c83cc6$f9189c70$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<109301c83cf3$5c405aa0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <020a01c83d1b$92b78090$6401a8c0@Larry>

Well, I have, and probably won't be adequately compensated, so just send 
your check to me and live the rest of your life with a clear conscience. 
You know you will feel better for it.

Larry


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <shop at justbrits.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions


Aye, THERE's the rub, Larry/

<<For the second option you only needed to tell them how many days you were
there and they would determine your refund using "average" spending 
patterns,
not "your" spending.>>

Have NOT "been" there.  Forget I sell PARTS???    LOL
_______________________________________________
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 12 17:38:07 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 16:38:07 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <C385BEEF.1399C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

My guess is that neither of you fellows have any defroster tubes
installed... Left out by the previous owner in despair, no doubt.

That is, unless the factory abandoned the little devils themselves, in the
later models. I have only been involved in this operation on a 66 and a 69.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/12/07 8:25 AM, Councill, David at dcouncill at msubillings.edu wrote:

> Mine was also not overly difficult and I installed it like Mark
> described. But one key factor was the fact that the engine was out of
> the car as well as well as the steel hood. So I ended up standing in the
> engine compartment as I wrestled the heater assembly back in place.
> 
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor
> 
> Gee, I didn't have any problem either removing or reinstalling the
> heater
> assembly.  I did have to thread the cable attached to the heater unit in
> first and then go inside the car to make sure it was in the right spot
> before finally pushing the unit into place, but otherwise found
> reinstalling it to be no big deal.
> 
> Mark
> 73 MGBGT
> 80 Spitfire 1500

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Wed Dec 12 18:12:57 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:12:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [Fwd: The SU Carburetter Company - Free Metering Needle(s)
 with every SU service and rebuild order kit]
Message-ID: <47608719.4030007@wi.net>

Anyone else get this?  I order parts from Burlen occasionally and just 
wondered if anyone else got this notice.  There great to deal with; at 
least in my experience.  I was hoping for a free rebuild kit!
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI

SU wrote:

Dear Sir/Madam,

 From the 1st of December 2007 we are offering all of our customers a 
free metering needle(s) with every SU service kit and rebuild kit 
ordered via the Burlen Fuel Systems website at _www.burlen.co.uk_ 
<outbind://62/www.burlen.co.uk>.

You can take you pick from our huge range of needles to pick the best 
needle to suit your vehicle application

Take advantage of this great offer now and get your free needle(s) today 
at _www.burlen.co.uk_ <outbind://62/www.burlen.co.uk>

Also our brand new AMAL website is now up and running at 
_www.amalcarb.co.uk_ <outbind://62/www.amalcarb.co.uk> where we are 
offering you the ability to build your own carburetter, built to your 
desired specification, using our unique online AMAL carburetter building 
system.

As an existing customer of Burlen Fuel Systems Limited you will know 
that all registered users will receive a 5% discount on all orders 
placed online, so why not register with The AMAL Carburetter Company 
online and enjoy the benefits of being a member?

We are the worlds sole manufacturer of genuine AMAL and SU carburetters, 
fuel pumps and spares.

The AMAL Carburetter Company and The SU Carburetter Company are 
divisions of Burlen Fuel Systems Limited.

Burlen Fuel Systems Limited, Spitfire House, Castle Road, Salisbury, 
Wiltshire, SP1 3SB

Tel: 00 44 (0) 1722 412500 Fax: 00 44 (0) 1722 334221 Email: 
info at burlen.co.uk Website: _www.burlen.co.uk_ 
<outbind://62/www.burlen.co.uk>

Registered in England and Wales. Registration Number No. 2005550. 
Registered office: as above

The information contained in this e-mail is intended for the named 
recipient(s) only and must not be copied, distributed or published in 
any way without prior agreement. Burlen Fuel Systems Limited does not 
accept legal responsibility for this message.

If you do not wish to be sent future e-mails please reply to this 
message with the word 'REMOVE' in the subject line. Only e-mails replied 
to in this way will be removed from our mailing list.

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Dec 12 20:46:21 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 21:46:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Credit Card Refund for foreign transactions
References: <7F92A307-68D4-4F32-A09E-275C8B1D37BE@gmail.com><032801c83c5e$96ba18f0$6501a8c0@actualshop><004f01c83cc6$f9189c70$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<109301c83cf3$5c405aa0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<020a01c83d1b$92b78090$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <0cb501c83d3a$ba5e7850$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<You know you will feel better for it.>>

Nope.  The dollars I have spent on Parts would pay for a dozen trips 100%!!!

So I'll just buy a couple cases of brew and remember you with each brew,
Larry!!

LOL

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Dec 12 21:47:29 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 21:47:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I am looking for a door latch, LH (driver side). This would be Moss
401-120, unavailable, for a 66B. Used would be fine. Its for my son who
lives in Portland, Oregon. Are there any good used part suppliers in
that area? He recently acquired both a 66B and a 73B, both restoration
projects, so this is the first of many parts he will be looking for. I'm
not sure the condition of the cars but the price was right. The 73B was
free and the 66B I think cost him a few hundred US dollars. He is a
welder so I am sure whatever rust he encounters will not be
insurmountable.



David Councill

67 BGT

72 B

From mjanacek at snet.net  Thu Dec 13 00:36:51 2007
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 02:36:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <004701c83d5a$ed820010$8b05fc40@DESKTOP>

Chris Roop of  Roop's MG is in Pendelton, OR.
http://www.roopsmg.com/

Mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 11:47 PM
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B


>I am looking for a door latch, LH (driver side). This would be Moss
> 401-120, unavailable, for a 66B. Used would be fine. Its for my son who
> lives in Portland, Oregon. Are there any good used part suppliers in
> that area? He recently acquired both a 66B and a 73B, both restoration
> projects, so this is the first of many parts he will be looking for. I'm
> not sure the condition of the cars but the price was right. The 73B was
> free and the 66B I think cost him a few hundred US dollars. He is a
> welder so I am sure whatever rust he encounters will not be
> insurmountable.
> 
> 
> 
> David Councill
> 
> 67 BGT
> 
> 72 B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Dec 13 02:03:40 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 09:03:40 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
References: <C385BEEF.1399C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00aa01c83d67$756d6ad0$0200a8c0@Three>

Later models still had defrosters, but in the Parts Catalogue the tubes did 
change - from having two to having none, so I'm not sure how the later 
models were fed!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> That is, unless the factory abandoned the little devils themselves, in the
> later models. 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Dec 13 10:45:34 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 09:45:34 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <00aa01c83d67$756d6ad0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C386AFBE.139E3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Thinking about it, if one doesn't open the heater doors, I suppose the tubes
would be redundant. But with the heater doors open, you woudn't get any
defroster flow whatsoever -- not that anyone could tell the difference...

on 12/13/07 1:03 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> Later models still had defrosters, but in the Parts Catalogue the tubes did
> change - from having two to having none, so I'm not sure how the later
> models were fed!
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> That is, unless the factory abandoned the little devils themselves, in the
>> later models. 
> 
> 


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Dec 13 15:41:47 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 14:41:47 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
In-Reply-To: <004701c83d5a$ed820010$8b05fc40@DESKTOP>
Message-ID: <C386F52B.13A34%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Pendleton is not exactly nearby Portland, however...

There used to be all sorts of British car suppliers in Portland. FASPEC for
one. NW-something-or-other. The wreckers are all getting pushed out,
however, just like everyplace else.


-- 
====================
Max
1967 Fastback
Johnny Lightning Muscle Cars USA #14
273 Commando
Factory disc brakes
Mountain View, CA




on 12/12/07 11:36 PM, Mike Janacek at mjanacek at snet.net wrote:

> Chris Roop of  Roop's MG is in Pendelton, OR.
> http://www.roopsmg.com/
> 
> Mike
> '79B
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 11:47 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
> 
> 
>> I am looking for a door latch, LH (driver side). This would be Moss
>> 401-120, unavailable, for a 66B. Used would be fine. Its for my son who
>> lives in Portland, Oregon. Are there any good used part suppliers in
>> that area? He recently acquired both a 66B and a 73B, both restoration
>> projects, so this is the first of many parts he will be looking for. I'm
>> not sure the condition of the cars but the price was right. The 73B was
>> free and the 66B I think cost him a few hundred US dollars. He is a
>> welder so I am sure whatever rust he encounters will not be
>> insurmountable.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> David Councill
>> 
>> 67 BGT
>> 
>> 72 B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Dec 14 02:03:17 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 09:03:17 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
References: <C386AFBE.139E3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <008101c83e30$31a57b20$0200a8c0@Three>

If you mean the separate little doors on the footwell vents the factory 
dropped those sometime before mine (73), I don't know whether they made any 
other changes but the dash control on mine gives pretty good direction 
control between off, interior and screen and is continuously variable like 
the heat control (should be).  Without the tubes, on those cars that have 
them, with the control on defrost the air would simply blow on the back of 
the dash and console, there is over 12" and a couple of angles between the 
heater and defroster vents.  A friend has an 80, I'll have to have a look 
how his defroster vents are connected.

Both my heaters are pretty good, I've measured 140F coming out of the 
defroster vents with an ambient of 50F (OK, I know Alaskans only close the 
bathroom window at -50F), and the fan clears *misting* in seconds.  I reckon 
there are 10 separate areas which can contribute to poor heater 
effectiveness, and one could have any number of them!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Thinking about it, if one doesn't open the heater doors, I suppose the 
> tubes
> would be redundant. But with the heater doors open, you woudn't get any
> defroster flow whatsoever -- not that anyone could tell the difference...

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 14 06:31:41 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 05:31:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <008101c83e30$31a57b20$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <725536.63753.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Paul, et al.,
   Here are a few pictures that might help...

--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> If you mean the separate little doors on the
> footwell vents the factory 
> dropped those sometime before mine (73),

My '70 Tourer has them. Here is an early picture of my
car during disassembly of the interior:
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0607.JPG  Here's a look
from the passenger side:
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0597.JPG 

Here's a defroster duct, in place:
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0594.JPG  and a picture
that might help you with the routing of the defroster
hoses: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/dash00.jpg

I still need this part, if anyone knows of an
aftermarket supplier.  I prefer the simpler model that
shorts to ground when 'open' as I have rewired the
courtesy lights for simpler operation:
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0600.JPG  
Cheaper is better.

Regards,

Rick
'70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer
'79 Ferrari 308GTB
'96 BMW 740iL
'98 M-B SL500
'03 L-R Discovery
'08 M-B C300

From schultejim at msn.com  Fri Dec 14 06:57:34 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (schultejim at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 13:57:34 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: MGC 2008
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV627ABF43C4C98B6E85D2EDB670@phx.gbl>

Can anyone help Biff??
Jim
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Riff Blaze <riff_blaze at yahoo.com>

Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 05:41:20 
To:James Schulte <schultejim at msn.com>
Subject: Re: MGC 2008


Yes thanks! Hopefully I'll be able to get all the
mechanical issues sorted out before then! 
Best Regards.
If you happen to know anyone that has a
reverse/inhibit switch (neutral safety switch) for a
Type-65 Borg Warner automatic, that would be what I
need to get this finished.
Thanks again, have a great day.
Riff
--- James Schulte <schultejim at msn.com> wrote:

> Riff
> Did you get all the information you needed on MG
> 2008?
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Riff Blaze<mailto:riff_blaze at yahoo.com> 
>   To: schultejim at msn.com<mailto:schultejim at msn.com> 
>   Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 1:35 PM
>   Subject: MGC 2008
> 
> 
>   Jim, I saw your posting on the MGC forum, can you
> tell
>   me more about this event?
>   THANKS!
>   Riff
>   MGC# 228

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Dec 14 07:19:03 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 09:19:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"
References: <007b01c83939$74bcd2b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<4321388593DE5D4585C715ED5643C9185F32B4@EXCHANGEVS01.appsig.com>
Message-ID: <003c01c83e5c$4751b6b0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

I've pulled the engine on the 71 MGB and lo and behold the TOB carbon part
was laying in pieces (again) in the bell housing, a club member and I
replaced the 3 in one clutch and had the engine back in,  in about a six
hours, amazing what you can do it you have the right tools.
I again installed the Moss 3 in 1 clutch and hopefully this one will last
more than a little over 2 years of normal, not riding the clutch driving.


---- Original Message ----- 
From: "COX, DENNIS" <dennis_cox at appsig.com>
To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>; "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 1:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"


My take on the clutch....  The carbon tob is fine..   But I experienced
premature wear from the clutch arm being wobbly.  The bushing wears and
the pivot bolt wears.  Both are available. I installed the new bushing
and bolt and when I tightened it it pinched the arm enough so it
wouldn't move.  I found the length to be about 1/16 or so shorter.
Junk...   Grrr..  I put it together with the new bushing and old bolt.
It still is wobbly but not as quite bad as it was.  The now bolt came
from Moss and I returned it.  So what do we do here?

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dennis_cox=appsig.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
1971-red-mgb
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 5:27 PM
To: MG LIST
Subject: [Mgs] clutch issue for the "B"

o.k. wise ones, I replaced the clutch with the 3 in 1 Moss Borg and Beck
two
years ago, yesterday the clutch went out again, sounds like the throw
out
bearing again, my driving is such as not to ride the clutch, or keep the
clutch depressed while at a traffic stop, has anyone else have had
issues with
their clutch? any advise?
_______________________________________________



-- 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007
11:06 AM

From rcady at verizon.net  Fri Dec 14 07:32:20 2007
From: rcady at verizon.net (rcady at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 08:32:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Tube installation
Message-ID: <12423354.816101197642740984.JavaMail.root@vms226.mailsrvcs.net>

Out of pure frustration I inserted the heater tubes from 
inside the passenger compartment, blocked them in place,
and then sprayed some "Great Stuff" foam insulation around 
the tubes to hold them in place - being careful to stay 
away from the cable / heater door mechanism.

I then installed the defroster hoses.

This seems to have worked . . . but we'll see how things go if I 
need to remove the heater again.

Rich C.
Horsham, PA
1970 MGB Roadster, 18GB engine, '69 C overdrive

---------------------------------------------------------------


>Message: 4
>Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 16:38:07 -0800
>From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor
>To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID: <C385BEEF.1399C%max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>My guess is that neither of you fellows have any defroster tubes
>installed... Left out by the previous owner in despair, no doubt.
>
>That is, unless the factory abandoned the little devils themselves, in the
>later models. I have only been involved in this operation on a 66 and a 69.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From schultejim at msn.com  Fri Dec 14 07:37:48 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 09:37:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Tube installation
In-Reply-To: <12423354.816101197642740984.JavaMail.root@vms226.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <BAY116-F27487DE5C5B32D0E5174C0DB670@phx.gbl>

Rich
Is your C on the road? Are you planning to attend MG 2008 MGC CBA 2008 at 
Valley Forge?



Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler





>From: <rcady at verizon.net>
>To: mgs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mgs] Heater Tube installation
>Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 08:32:20 -0600 (CST)
>
>Out of pure frustration I inserted the heater tubes from
>inside the passenger compartment, blocked them in place,
>and then sprayed some "Great Stuff" foam insulation around
>the tubes to hold them in place - being careful to stay
>away from the cable / heater door mechanism.
>
>I then installed the defroster hoses.
>
>This seems to have worked . . . but we'll see how things go if I
>need to remove the heater again.
>
>Rich C.
>Horsham, PA
>1970 MGB Roadster, 18GB engine, '69 C overdrive
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> >Message: 4
> >Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 16:38:07 -0800
> >From: Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor
> >To: MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> >Message-ID: <C385BEEF.1399C%max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> >My guess is that neither of you fellows have any defroster tubes
> >installed... Left out by the previous owner in despair, no doubt.
> >
> >That is, unless the factory abandoned the little devils themselves, in 
>the
> >later models. I have only been involved in this operation on a 66 and a 
>69.
> >
> >--
> >
> >Max Heim
> >'66 MGB GHN3L76149
> >If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> >it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>_______________________________________________

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Dec 14 07:59:54 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 14:59:54 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
References: <725536.63753.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003b01c83e62$b17bd920$0200a8c0@Three>

Don't know why they provided individual footwell flaps as well as the 
overall air direction control, maybe to push more air into the drivers side 
if the passenger seat was unoccupied and its vent closed.  Mine has the 
fixed vents but the same (or very similar) arrangement of defroster tubes.

That switch is for the seat-belt warning system used in various flavours 
over the years, the courtesy light switches always were the simpler 'shorts 
to ground when open' type.  However the original style with metal pegs in a 
metal base have not been available for many years in the UK, there is an 
alternative available here with a black plastic post in a metal base, but 
this does need the hole in the A-post opening out a little to fit.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I still need this part, if anyone knows of an
> aftermarket supplier.  I prefer the simpler model that
> shorts to ground when 'open' as I have rewired the
> courtesy lights for simpler operation:

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Fri Dec 14 08:31:06 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 10:31:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay
Message-ID: <006901c83e66$583e3fc0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Check out this guys description of a Unipart oil filter for sale on eBay:

http://tinyurl.com/29tser

Rick


Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
Coast English Car Club

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Fri Dec 14 08:32:20 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 10:32:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB valve stem seals
Message-ID: <004d01c83e66$a3f5a430$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

Saw these on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/2beug4  (eBay item 
#200184220457)
  "viton valve stem seals"

Anyone used these?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Dec 14 08:52:11 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 15:52:11 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay
References: <006901c83e66$583e3fc0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <006501c83e69$4fff51c0$0200a8c0@Three>

It's a fake, Prince Charles has an MGC ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> Check out this guys description of a Unipart oil filter for sale on eBay:
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/29tser

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Dec 14 09:04:20 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 08:04:20 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay
References: <006901c83e66$583e3fc0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <004c01c83e6a$fd624330$6501a8c0@XPS400>

That's really funny.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Brown" <mgrick at mgcars.org.uk>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 7:31 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay


> Check out this guys description of a Unipart oil filter for sale on eBay:
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/29tser

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Dec 14 09:30:16 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 10:30:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <006901c83e66$583e3fc0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
References: <006901c83e66$583e3fc0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <81CC7842-408F-40EF-857D-9988531835DA@gmail.com>

Don't miss the q&a. Priceless.

On Dec 14, 2007, at 9:31 AM, Rick Brown wrote:

> Check out this guys description of a Unipart oil filter for sale on  
> eBay:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/29tser
>
> Rick
>
>
> Webmaster for:
> ___________________________________________________________
>  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
>  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
> Registers
>  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and  
> Nature
> Coast English Car Club
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From John.Hed at faa.gov  Fri Dec 14 09:33:15 2007
From: John.Hed at faa.gov (John.Hed at faa.gov)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 08:33:15 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19
In-Reply-To: <mailman.38599.1197648307.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFF220EC40.C0E0E404-ON882573B1.005A8D8D-882573B1.005AEF8A@faa.gov>

What a hoot!  Great to see some humor in eBay ads!   But me thinks he has
too much time on his hands!!!  ;-)

John Hed
80 MGB-LE

From mgs at bonacker.us  Fri Dec 14 12:06:47 2007
From: mgs at bonacker.us (mgs at bonacker.us)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 19:06:47 GMT
Subject: [Mgs] What it's like to work on my MGB
Message-ID: <f3a12a180f11439787da59f06c116ff9@6383abe402954cb9ad4433f37a582a61>

http://www.dilbert.com/

If you are checking this link after today, then
you'll need to look a the strip for 14 December 2007. The link will probably
be something like this one:
http://www.dilbert.com/comics/dilbert/archive/dilbert-20071214.html

Not
that I'm complaining of course, if I didn't enjoy it I wouldn't do it.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Dec 14 16:25:59 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 15:25:59 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor/Door Switch
In-Reply-To: <003b01c83e62$b17bd920$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CECA0@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Paul:

We got the single line, simple all metal switch reproduced a while ago.

The Moss US number is 131-611. Factory number BHA4593 retail $5.95

I think the part went NLS in the UK when we changed our part number from
131-610 (OE) to 131-611 (repro), I noticed that Moss UK was not sourced
to us under the new number.

I'll contact their purchasing staff and let them know.

I've used the switch on a number of vehicles and it seems to be working
out well.




Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer,  Moss Motors, Ltd.
www.mossmotors.com
440 Rutherford Street
Goleta, CA 93117
Phone : 805.679.7023
Fax:      805.692.2520
E-mail: doddk at mossmotors.com



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Paul Hunt
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 7:00 AM
> To: Rick Lindsay; MGS
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Motor

> That switch is for the seat-belt warning system used in
> various flavours over the years, the courtesy light switches
> always were the simpler 'shorts to ground when open' type.
> However the original style with metal pegs in a metal base
> have not been available for many years in the UK, there is an
> alternative available here with a black plastic post in a
> metal base, but this does need the hole in the A-post opening
> out a little to fit.
>
> PaulH.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 14 17:16:30 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 16:16:30 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <725536.63753.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3885CDE.13ABD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

We weren't talking about the duct hoses (flexible hoses), we were talking
about the two tubes which are feeding those hoses, behind the rubber elbows
which come out of the metal console frame or whatever you call it.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/14/07 5:31 AM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> Hello Paul, et al.,
>    Here are a few pictures that might help...
> 
> --- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> 
>> If you mean the separate little doors on the
>> footwell vents the factory
>> dropped those sometime before mine (73),
> 
> My '70 Tourer has them. Here is an early picture of my
> car during disassembly of the interior:
> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0607.JPG  Here's a look
> from the passenger side:
> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0597.JPG
> 
> Here's a defroster duct, in place:
> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0594.JPG  and a picture
> that might help you with the routing of the defroster
> hoses: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/dash00.jpg
> 
> I still need this part, if anyone knows of an
> aftermarket supplier.  I prefer the simpler model that
> shorts to ground when 'open' as I have rewired the
> courtesy lights for simpler operation:
> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0600.JPG
> Cheaper is better.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rick
> '70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer
> '79 Ferrari 308GTB
> '96 BMW 740iL
> '98 M-B SL500
> '03 L-R Discovery
> '08 M-B C300

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Dec 15 05:55:12 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 12:55:12 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor/Door Switch
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CECA0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <018701c83f1b$cbd7e610$0200a8c0@Three>

Thanks Kelvin.  I note Moss Europe is showing the part No. as BHA4593Z, i.e. 
the original No. plus a Z suffix.  *Normally* this means it is a pattern 
part but not from the OE source.  But the way it is displayed (remote from 
the main list) and the wording used is more indicative of a completely 
different part which will do the same job.  There is no image of the 
alternative part.  If they are to the original design and appearance then I 
would rather have them than the alternatives I have now.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
I think the part went NLS in the UK when we changed our part number from
131-610 (OE) to 131-611 (repro), I noticed that Moss UK was not sourced
to us under the new number.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 15 21:17:57 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 22:17:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
Message-ID: <000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local>

hi, all.

its chilly here in Dallas, and i'm not likely to drive with the top down 
anytime soon.  but the garage isn't so bad, and i'd like to take care of one 
nagging problem.

one the driver side of my 73 b roadster, the bottom screw/bolt is out.  i 
have the bolt, but the captive nut is gone.  what do i have to remove to get 
at the nut?

thanks and happy holidays to all. 

From Grossac at aol.com  Fri Dec 14 20:21:42 2007
From: Grossac at aol.com (Grossac at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 22:21:42 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Sprite Speed 50! - Sprite Celebration Races at Mid-Ohio,
 June  2008
Message-ID: <d4f.1b4b51e0.3494a246@aol.com>

And,  another Sprite Featured Race for 2008:

SPRITE  SPEED 50!

A CELEBRATION OF 50 YEARS OF  RACING SPRITES
AT SVRAbS MID-OHIO VINTAGE  RACES, JUNE 26-29, 2008

Who:  Worldbs largest  gathering of racing Sprites and their brothers under
the skin (Midgets and  Sprite-derived specials).
What:  Four fun days of  practice, qualifying, qualifying aces and feature
races.
Where:  Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course, Lexington, Ohio
When:  Thursday June 26  through Sunday June 29, 2008.
Why:  To celebrate the  50th anniversary of our beloved Sprites and their
early racing  successes, also including examples of variants and modern
iterations (selected  current SCCA cars with history.)  Additionally, entrants
will be
eligible to compete for overall honors in  the Across-the Border Can-Am
Challenge with the VARAC event being held the  preceding weekend at Mosport.
Some pertinent details:
B7        Information and  registration at _www.SVRA.com_
(http://www.svra.com/) .
B7        Thursday b Optional  track familiarization day with available
coaching.
B7        Friday b A minimum of  two practice/qualifying sessions.
B7        Saturday b A  minimum of one qualifying session and one qualifying
race.  Depending on car  preparation/modifications and speed potential, SVRA
may assign selected cars to  an appropriate class.
B7        Sunday b Morning  warm-ups, and afternoon class races, followed by
trophy presentations.
B7        Number of sessions and  races will be dependent on the size of the
entry. There will be at least one  dedicated All-Sprite Feature Race during
the
weekend in addition to races for  SVRAbs normal race groupings.  With  a
large enough entry, Sprites may be eligible for reduced entry fees and other
bestowments.
Chris Gross  12-14-07



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Dec 16 00:23:28 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 02:23:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <C3885CDE.13ABD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <725536.63753.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C3885CDE.13ABD%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1J3nuP-0008BE-Tr@alpha.look.ca>

Not quite sure which part you want but I used off-the-shelf plumbing 
plastic tube and elbows out off the heater to connect to flexibile 
hose in my 1970 MGB - Fitted perfectly and cost about $5.


At 07:16 PM 12/14/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>We weren't talking about the duct hoses (flexible hoses), we were talking
>about the two tubes which are feeding those hoses, behind the rubber elbows
>which come out of the metal console frame or whatever you call it.
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>on 12/14/07 5:31 AM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > Hello Paul, et al.,
> >    Here are a few pictures that might help...
> >
> > --- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> >> If you mean the separate little doors on the
> >> footwell vents the factory
> >> dropped those sometime before mine (73),
> >
> > My '70 Tourer has them. Here is an early picture of my
> > car during disassembly of the interior:
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0607.JPG  Here's a look
> > from the passenger side:
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0597.JPG
> >
> > Here's a defroster duct, in place:
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0594.JPG  and a picture
> > that might help you with the routing of the defroster
> > hoses: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/dash00.jpg
> >
> > I still need this part, if anyone knows of an
> > aftermarket supplier.  I prefer the simpler model that
> > shorts to ground when 'open' as I have rewired the
> > courtesy lights for simpler operation:
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0600.JPG
> > Cheaper is better.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rick
> > '70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer
> > '79 Ferrari 308GTB
> > '96 BMW 740iL
> > '98 M-B SL500
> > '03 L-R Discovery
> > '08 M-B C300
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Dec 16 03:40:49 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 10:40:49 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
	<000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <00b901c83fd0$d3746ff0$0200a8c0@Three>

The trim panel, which means removal of all the bolts that side at least. 
Several of mine had stripped and torn loose when I restored it.  The deep 
nuts used on the 1/4-light assembly are at least twice as long and the same 
thread and I reckoned they would resist stripping better.  Rather than weld 
them back onto the body I welded them into a triangular plate which I then 
held to the body with a small central screw.  It's true that until at least 
one of the frame bolts is tight it pivots about a bit, but when all three 
are tight it isn't going anywhere, and has been secure for 17 years now.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> one the driver side of my 73 b roadster, the bottom screw/bolt is out.  i
> have the bolt, but the captive nut is gone.  what do i have to remove to 
> get
> at the nut?

From pchast at francomm.com  Sun Dec 16 07:50:15 2007
From: pchast at francomm.com (Peter Chast)
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:50:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks
In-Reply-To: <00b901c83fd0$d3746ff0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
	<000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local>
	<00b901c83fd0$d3746ff0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <op.t3fnh4a55gkudl@66-109-47-250.dialup.francomm.com>

Hey

I'm for an easy way. Why not a pop-rivit nut.
there are available kits of poprivit nuts in
various sizes. Bought mine for about 5$ at
(horrors) Harbor Freight.

Pete
Athens, NY

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 05:40:49 -0500, Paul Hunt  
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

>
> The trim panel, which means removal of all the bolts that side at least.
> Several of mine had stripped and torn loose when I restored it.  The deep
> nuts used on the 1/4-light assembly are at least twice as long and the  
> same
> thread and I reckoned they would resist stripping better.  Rather than  
> weld
> them back onto the body I welded them into a triangular plate which I  
> then
> held to the body with a small central screw.  It's true that until at  
> least
> one of the frame bolts is tight it pivots about a bit, but when all three
> are tight it isn't going anywhere, and has been secure for 17 years now.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> one the driver side of my 73 b roadster, the bottom screw/bolt is out.   
>> i
>> have the bolt, but the captive nut is gone.  what do i have to remove to
>> get
>> at the nut?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as pchast at francomm.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>



-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec 16 13:20:29 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 12:20:29 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <E1J3nuP-0008BE-Tr@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C38AC88D.13AF8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I didn't WANT a part, I was commenting on the photos that were linked, which
showed flexible defroster ducts, and pointing out that these were not the
topics under discussion.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/15/07 11:23 PM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> Not quite sure which part you want but I used off-the-shelf plumbing
> plastic tube and elbows out off the heater to connect to flexibile
> hose in my 1970 MGB - Fitted perfectly and cost about $5.
> 
> 
> At 07:16 PM 12/14/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>> We weren't talking about the duct hoses (flexible hoses), we were talking
>> about the two tubes which are feeding those hoses, behind the rubber elbows
>> which come out of the metal console frame or whatever you call it.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> on 12/14/07 5:31 AM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:
>> 
>>> Hello Paul, et al.,
>>>    Here are a few pictures that might help...
>>> 
>>> --- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> If you mean the separate little doors on the
>>>> footwell vents the factory
>>>> dropped those sometime before mine (73),
>>> 
>>> My '70 Tourer has them. Here is an early picture of my
>>> car during disassembly of the interior:
>>> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0607.JPG  Here's a look
>>> from the passenger side:
>>> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0597.JPG
>>> 
>>> Here's a defroster duct, in place:
>>> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0594.JPG  and a picture
>>> that might help you with the routing of the defroster
>>> hoses: http://www.aubard.us/MGB/dash00.jpg
>>> 
>>> I still need this part, if anyone knows of an
>>> aftermarket supplier.  I prefer the simpler model that
>>> shorts to ground when 'open' as I have rewired the
>>> courtesy lights for simpler operation:
>>> http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0600.JPG
>>> Cheaper is better.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> 
>>> Rick

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Dec 16 18:50:19 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 19:50:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] cool tool find
Message-ID: <058e01c8404f$2e695c30$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Thought I would share with you gents.  Found by a NON-mechainic Spridgeteer!!

http://www.chaseembacktools.com/

I ordered<G>!!

Ed

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 17 05:51:44 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 04:51:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Heater Motor
In-Reply-To: <C38AC88D.13AF8%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <808558.57219.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Gang,

   I posted the links because Paul wrote that is
later-model B didn't have the footwell heater doors. 
Nothing more.  Because I have had my B in a zillion
pieces and photographed it along the way, I just
shared a few pictures to help make Paul's point.

FWIW, I reused the pipes coming from the heater as
well as the flexible elbows and the metal demister
assemblies, all refinished.  The new flex hose was
sourced from Moss (or was it Victoria?).

Sorry if I causes Anti-cheer. :-P

rick

Max wrote:
> I didn't WANT a part,
> Barrie wrote:
>> Not quite sure which part you want
>> Max wrote:
>>> We weren't talking about the duct hoses
>>> Rick Lindsay (that's me) wrote:
>>>> Hello Paul...Here are a few pictures...

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 17 10:27:37 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:27:37 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] cool tool find
In-Reply-To: <058e01c8404f$2e695c30$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <C38BF189.13B34%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That demonstrator should know better -- the proper tool for destroying
threads is a ball-peen hammer, not a claw hammer...

<g>

But seriously, that did look like a useful invention.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/16/07 5:50 PM, shop at justbrits.com at shop at justbrits.com wrote:

> Thought I would share with you gents.  Found by a NON-mechainic Spridgeteer!!
> 
> http://www.chaseembacktools.com/
> 
> I ordered<G>!!
> 
> Ed

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Dec 17 11:30:33 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 13:30:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] cool tool find
In-Reply-To: <058e01c8404f$2e695c30$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <058e01c8404f$2e695c30$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <E1J4Kvl-0003V5-Ke@gamma.look.ca>

While I have asked Jim Haley to go on the British Car Cottage 
Industries web site as the tool is unusual and unique I wonder if it 
would not be easier to use a new bolt?  I am replacing nearly all my 
nuts and bolts with stainless anyway (strength permitting}

At 08:50 PM 12/16/2007, shop at justbrits.com wrote:
>Thought I would share with you gents.  Found by a NON-mechainic Spridgeteer!!
>
>http://www.chaseembacktools.com/
>
>I ordered<G>!!
>
>Ed

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From RampantNM at aol.com  Mon Dec 17 12:06:12 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 14:06:12 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay
Message-ID: <c4f.1eda8dae.349822a4@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/14/2007 8:52:56 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

It's a  fake, Prince Charles has an MGC ...

Paul and others, this is a fundraiser and was put on ebay after seeing  
someone pay $1000 for an original Lucas battery.

 
Regards,

Robert B. Houston

74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced hands, 
the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.




**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes 
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 17 12:10:31 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 11:10:31 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] cool tool find
In-Reply-To: <E1J4Kvl-0003V5-Ke@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <C38C09A7.13B4A%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Ha ha, good point. But sometimes the "new bolt" is not readily obtainable,
and sometimes the machine in question needs to go back together *now*, not
after waiting several day for UPS, and sometimes the threaded bit is part of
an elaborate unobtainable vintage forging. So there are many situations
where this could save the day. I mean, you might as well ask, what good is a
tap and die set?


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/17/07 10:30 AM, Barrie Robinson at barrie at look.ca wrote:

> While I have asked Jim Haley to go on the British Car Cottage
> Industries web site as the tool is unusual and unique I wonder if it
> would not be easier to use a new bolt?  I am replacing nearly all my
> nuts and bolts with stainless anyway (strength permitting}
> 
> At 08:50 PM 12/16/2007, shop at justbrits.com wrote:
>> Thought I would share with you gents.  Found by a NON-mechainic Spridgeteer!!
>> 
>> http://www.chaseembacktools.com/
>> 
>> I ordered<G>!!
>> 
>> Ed
> 
> Regards
> Barrie
> 
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Dec 17 13:05:14 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 21:05:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay
References: <c4f.1eda8dae.349822a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007601c840e8$7030dd20$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Who would pay $ 1000 for being in the dark?!

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
To: <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; <mgrick at mgcars.org.uk>; 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay


> In a message dated 12/14/2007 8:52:56 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:
>
> It's a  fake, Prince Charles has an MGC ...
>
> Paul and others, this is a fundraiser and was put on ebay after seeing
> someone pay $1000 for an original Lucas battery.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
>
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
>
> As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual  Skinners Union
> carburetors in his vintage MG, highly functional yet  pleasingly formed,
> perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for  experienced 
> hands,
> the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be  inspected and
> adjusted as
> described in chapter seven of the Haynes shop  manual.
>
>
>
>
> **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
> (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Dec 17 13:03:58 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 21:03:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] cool tool find
References: <058e01c8404f$2e695c30$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<E1J4Kvl-0003V5-Ke@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <007501c840e8$70169e60$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Agree with this strategy of better using a new one.

What I learned of steel behaviour after cold de-forming and reforming again 
at thechnical colege, that this is cold manipulation of the material. This 
will cause the threads become brittle.
IOW the material properties of the screw are absolutely not the same anymore 
as the original bold or screw carried.
This means such a bold or screw cannot predictibly be loaded / stressed as 
the original construction has been designed for.
I would not risk any important construction depending of such a repaired 
bold or screw, unless it is the only remedy.

Example of such can be taken by bending forth and back of an opened tin can 
lid.
After bending it several times, the lid will crack off.

Again I would say: Safety First before Safety Fast!

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
To: <shop at justbrits.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>; <mgs at autox.team.net>; 
<mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] cool tool find


> While I have asked Jim Haley to go on the British Car Cottage
> Industries web site as the tool is unusual and unique I wonder if it
> would not be easier to use a new bolt?  I am replacing nearly all my
> nuts and bolts with stainless anyway (strength permitting}
>
> At 08:50 PM 12/16/2007, shop at justbrits.com wrote:
>>Thought I would share with you gents.  Found by a NON-mechainic 
>>Spridgeteer!!
>>
>>http://www.chaseembacktools.com/
>>
>>I ordered<G>!!
>>
>>Ed
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Dec 18 00:02:32 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 02:02:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] cool tool find
In-Reply-To: <007501c840e8$70169e60$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
References: <058e01c8404f$2e695c30$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<E1J4Kvl-0003V5-Ke@gamma.look.ca>
	<007501c840e8$70169e60$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <E1J4Wgp-0004ZR-7H@gamma.look.ca>

Max had a point that sometimes a bolt is not obtainable - and having 
a 1955 Aston under restoration I can go along with that. BUT  there 
is always a way.


At 03:03 PM 12/17/2007, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>Agree with this strategy of better using a new one.
>
>What I learned of steel behaviour after cold de-forming and 
>reforming again at thechnical colege, that this is cold manipulation 
>of the material. This will cause the threads become brittle.
>IOW the material properties of the screw are absolutely not the same 
>anymore as the original bold or screw carried.
>This means such a bold or screw cannot predictibly be loaded / 
>stressed as the original construction has been designed for.
>I would not risk any important construction depending of such a 
>repaired bold or screw, unless it is the only remedy.
>
>Example of such can be taken by bending forth and back of an opened 
>tin can lid.
>After bending it several times, the lid will crack off.
>
>Again I would say: Safety First before Safety Fast!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Hans
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
>To: <shop at justbrits.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>; 
><mgs at autox.team.net>; <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 7:30 PM
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] cool tool find
>
>
>>While I have asked Jim Haley to go on the British Car Cottage
>>Industries web site as the tool is unusual and unique I wonder if it
>>would not be easier to use a new bolt?  I am replacing nearly all my
>>nuts and bolts with stainless anyway (strength permitting}
>>
>>At 08:50 PM 12/16/2007, shop at justbrits.com wrote:
>>>Thought I would share with you gents.  Found by a NON-mechainic 
>>>Spridgeteer!!
>>>
>>>http://www.chaseembacktools.com/
>>>
>>>I ordered<G>!!
>>>
>>>Ed
>>
>>Regards
>>Barrie
>>
>>Barrie Robinson
>>(705) 721-9060
>>http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
>>http://www.britcot.com
>

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Dec 18 01:58:40 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:58:40 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Good Laugh on Ebay
References: <c4f.1eda8dae.349822a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00ad01c84155$55842b90$0200a8c0@Three>

My tongue was in my cheek, hence the three dots ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> Paul and others, this is a fundraiser and was put on ebay after seeing  
> someone pay $1000 for an original Lucas battery.
>
>> It's a  fake, Prince Charles has an MGC ...

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Tue Dec 18 20:10:54 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 21:10:54 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
In-Reply-To: <005801c83ac5$6611a5a0$3234f0e0$@com>
References: <4759FE81.3030800@gmail.com>
	<314562.46039.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<005801c83ac5$6611a5a0$3234f0e0$@com>
Message-ID: <47688BBE.4020606@gmail.com>

Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
> Rocky, as a fellow musician, and former sinus sufferer... I have to give you
> a bit of advice. I struggled with sinus infections for 20+ years. I did all
> the anti-biotics, and the steroids... didn't help. I also had sinus surgery
> 2 years ago. It lessened the severity... but actually increased the
> occurrence of the infections. I went from winter only to all year 'round
> infections.
>
> I solved the problem with the advice of a new doctor and $12. 2 words...
> neti pot. 
>
> See <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_irrigation> 
>
> No more sinus infections. I use it once a day, unless I'm doing a lot of
> flying, them twice a day. I got my neti pot at the hospital's pharmacy... It
> came with pre-mixed packets to add to the lukewarm water. 
>
> WST
>   
Thanks, I will look into this.
> -The Roxter
> --

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Tue Dec 18 21:43:16 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:43:16 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
In-Reply-To: <475F8878.2010206@wi.net>
References: <00a301c83c71$ed086320$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
	<475F8878.2010206@wi.net>
Message-ID: <4768A164.8080109@gmail.com>

David Woerpel wrote:
> Eric J Russell wrote:
>   
>> My friend's wife asked me for assistance locating a replacement 
>> steering wheel for their '72 Mini. All she can find are 13" steering 
>> wheels - they'd like something a little bigger.
>>
>> Moss Motors has a "New MINI" web page but I don't see anything for 
>> real Mini's. We can only find 13" steering wheels at MiniMania.
>>
>> Any other places to look?
>>
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC
>> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
>>
>>   
>>     
> Eric,
>
> Try:  http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/our-products/your-car/default.aspx
> and then find the car.  They're not inexpensive!  They do make a nice 
> John Cooper signature wheel in 14" or if you surf the site they have 
> others that are cheaper.
>
> There used to be a U.S. site but they now direct you to FinishLine and 
> they don't see to have the selection.  Maybe someone knows a U.S. 
> distributor.  Barney, who is the chap at the DuPage swap meet who 
> handles steering wheels?
I have a friend in Sheffield that sells used Mini parts. The costs are reasonable, especially since we don't have to pay the VAT.

I have not contacted Nick in some time, but this was his information:

Nick Rogers
Sheffield Minibitz 
101 Albert Road
Heeley,
Sheffield S8 9QX
UK (England)

0114 255 4630
FAX  0114 258 2091

<nick at minibitz.force9.co.uk>

-The Roxter
--

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 19 06:03:51 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 05:03:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA restoration project in Oklahoma
In-Reply-To: <47688BBE.4020606@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <502455.77626.qm@web82306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My wife had exactly the same results!  This is the
RIGHT solution.

rick - also musician (bass)

--- The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote:

> Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
> > Rocky, as a fellow musician, and former sinus
> sufferer... I have to give you
> > a bit of advice. I struggled with sinus infections
> for 20+ years. I did all
> > the anti-biotics, and the steroids... didn't help.
> I also had sinus surgery
> > 2 years ago. It lessened the severity... but
> actually increased the
> > occurrence of the infections. I went from winter
> only to all year 'round
> > infections.
> >
> > I solved the problem with the advice of a new
> doctor and $12. 2 words...
> > neti pot. 
> >
> > See
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_irrigation> 
> >
> > No more sinus infections. I use it once a day,
> unless I'm doing a lot of
> > flying, them twice a day. I got my neti pot at the
> hospital's pharmacy... It
> > came with pre-mixed packets to add to the lukewarm
> water. 
> >
> > WST
> >   
> Thanks, I will look into this.
> > -The Roxter
> > --
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Dec 19 12:38:37 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 13:38:37 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <4769733D.3090006@gmail.com>

Councill, David wrote:
> I am looking for a door latch, LH (driver side). This would be Moss
> 401-120, unavailable, for a 66B. Used would be fine. Its for my son who
> lives in Portland, Oregon. Are there any good used part suppliers in
> that area? He recently acquired both a 66B and a 73B, both restoration
> projects, so this is the first of many parts he will be looking for. I'm
> not sure the condition of the cars but the price was right. The 73B was
> free and the 66B I think cost him a few hundred US dollars. He is a
> welder so I am sure whatever rust he encounters will not be
> insurmountable.
We have five B's in the salvage yard I do the website for. If you can point me to a picture of the part, I can see if we have one.

-The Roxter
--

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Wed Dec 19 13:23:23 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 15:23:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<4769733D.3090006@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007401c8427d$0144a400$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Rocky

Go here and see number 61 
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29040&SortOrder=51#61

Rick

Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG 
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature 
Coast English Car Club
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Roxter" <rocknatural at gmail.com>
To: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 14:38
Subject: Re: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B


> Councill, David wrote:
>> I am looking for a door latch, LH (driver side). This would be Moss
>> 401-120, unavailable, for a 66B. Used would be fine. Its for my son who
>> lives in Portland, Oregon. Are there any good used part suppliers in
>> that area? He recently acquired both a 66B and a 73B, both restoration
>> projects, so this is the first of many parts he will be looking for. I'm
>> not sure the condition of the cars but the price was right. The 73B was
>> free and the 66B I think cost him a few hundred US dollars. He is a
>> welder so I am sure whatever rust he encounters will not be
>> insurmountable.
> We have five B's in the salvage yard I do the website for. If you can 
> point me to a picture of the part, I can see if we have one.
>
> -The Roxter
> --

From rstarkweather at scottmadden.com  Wed Dec 19 14:20:49 2007
From: rstarkweather at scottmadden.com (Rick Starkweather)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 16:20:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
In-Reply-To: <007401c8427d$0144a400$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><4769733D.3090006@gmail.com>
	<007401c8427d$0144a400$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <90DED534722DF743BE72362E64A59C53011E7571@scottmadden.adtimail.com>

I also have a set of pull handle latches I bought off ebay a while back
for my MGB race car.  Decided to fill in the door latch holes in the
door and pin the doors.  They are now for sale (for whatever I paid for
them -- $30 or so I think) if anyone is interested.

Richard D. Starkweather
ScottMadden, Inc.
919-781-4191 (office)
919-345-9871 (mobile)

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+rstarkweather=scottmadden.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+rstarkweather=scottmadden.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rick Brown
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 3:23 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B

Rocky

Go here and see number 61
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29040&Sort
Order=51#61

Rick

Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and
Nature
Coast English Car Club
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Roxter" <rocknatural at gmail.com>
To: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 14:38
Subject: Re: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B


> Councill, David wrote:
>> I am looking for a door latch, LH (driver side). This would be Moss
>> 401-120, unavailable, for a 66B. Used would be fine. Its for my son
who
>> lives in Portland, Oregon. Are there any good used part suppliers in
>> that area? He recently acquired both a 66B and a 73B, both
restoration
>> projects, so this is the first of many parts he will be looking for.
I'm
>> not sure the condition of the cars but the price was right. The 73B
was
>> free and the 66B I think cost him a few hundred US dollars. He is a
>> welder so I am sure whatever rust he encounters will not be
>> insurmountable.
> We have five B's in the salvage yard I do the website for. If you can
> point me to a picture of the part, I can see if we have one.
>
> -The Roxter
> --
You are subscribed as rstarkweather at scottmadden.com


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive

From dwood143 at comcast.net  Wed Dec 19 16:08:48 2007
From: dwood143 at comcast.net (Dave Wood)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 15:08:48 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] need front door latch 66 B
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025F0229EFA7@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<4769733D.3090006@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001601c84294$1ce7b780$6401a8c0@DaveWood>

David,

Fastspec is a good place to start in Portland.  They've been around a long
time and know where to get parts that are not on their shelf.  I believe
they are a Moss distributor as well.

Dave (Portland suburbs).

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Dec 19 17:45:30 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:45:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks
In-Reply-To: <000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com>
	<000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <4769BB2A.20007@gmail.com>

Oliver wrote:
> hi, all.
>
> its chilly here in Dallas, and i'm not likely to drive with the top down 
> anytime soon.  but the garage isn't so bad, and i'd like to take care of one 
> nagging problem.
>
> one the driver side of my 73 b roadster, the bottom screw/bolt is out.  i 
> have the bolt, but the captive nut is gone.  what do i have to remove to get 
> at the nut?
>
> thanks and happy holidays to all. 
Was 60 today, so used the Victor for my errands. Top down.

FUN!!

-The Roxter
--

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 19 19:29:07 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:29:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks
In-Reply-To: <4769BB2A.20007@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <586843.56981.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote: Oliver wrote:
> hi, all.
>
> its chilly here in Dallas, and i'm not likely to drive with the top down 
> anytime soon.  but the garage isn't so bad, and i'd like to take care of one 
> nagging problem.
>
> one the driver side of my 73 b roadster, the bottom screw/bolt is out.  i 
> have the bolt, but the captive nut is gone.  what do i have to remove to get 
> at the nut?
>
> thanks and happy holidays to all. 
Was 60 today, so used the Victor for my errands. Top down.

FUN!!

-The Roxter
-Glad to hear you are up and around again, Rocky.... Merry Christmas!

Dan D

From battanhr at comcast.net  Wed Dec 19 22:00:41 2007
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 21:00:41 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks
In-Reply-To: <4769BB2A.20007@gmail.com>
References: <006d01c83b5f$493f3470$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><00f001c83b7f$fc8d4060$640119ac@shoyer.com><000201c83f9a$a4bca8c0$800101df@garage.local>
	<4769BB2A.20007@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9DE3603240334A3D98D4832CB1A868D4@xps410>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Roxter" <rocknatural at gmail.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks


> Oliver wrote:
>> hi, all.
>>
>> its chilly here in Dallas, and i'm not likely to drive with the top down
>> anytime soon.  but the garage isn't so bad, and i'd like to take care of 
>> one
>> nagging problem.
>>
>> one the driver side of my 73 b roadster, the bottom screw/bolt is out.  i
>> have the bolt, but the captive nut is gone.  what do i have to remove to 
>> get
>> at the nut?
>>
>> thanks and happy holidays to all.
> Was 60 today, so used the Victor for my errands. Top down.
>
> FUN!!
>
> -The Roxter
> --
>

Rub it in, why don't ya? From rainy northwest Washington. But I did get the 
'79 B out for a couple hours of Christmas shopping today - with the hood up!

Howard Battan
'54 TF 1250
'57 MGA (in pieces)
'79 B - de-smogged 

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Thu Dec 20 04:25:13 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 12:25:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] striker glovebox MG B GT '73 LHD
Message-ID: <014f01c842fa$fee18970$fca49c50$@com>

Hello,

 

if somebody has this part lying around and is willing to part with it,
please give me a shout.

 

Thanks and Merry Christmas to all of you.

 

Eric

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Dec 20 13:47:11 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 14:47:11 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] convertible top frame/hoodsticks
In-Reply-To: <586843.56981.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <586843.56981.qm@web50905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <476AD4CF.3060203@gmail.com>

Dan DiBiase wrote:
> */The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com>/* wrote:
>
>     Oliver wrote:
>     > hi, all.
>     >
>     > its chilly here in Dallas, and i'm not likely to drive with the
>     top down
>     > anytime soon. but the garage isn't so bad, and i'd like to take
>     care of one
>     > nagging problem.
>     >
>     > one the driver side of my 73 b roadster, the bottom screw/bolt
>     is out. i
>     > have the bolt, but the captive nut is gone. what do i have to
>     remove to get
>     > at the nut?
>     >
>     > thanks and happy holidays to all.
>     Was 60 today, so used the Victor for my errands. Top down.
>
>     FUN!!
>
>     -The Roxter
>     -
>
> Glad to hear you are up and around again, Rocky.... Merry Christmas!
Thanks! That was rough!! First my Dodge dropped its little transmission, then I got the sinus infection, then the ice came and the power died (for six days). Got power back last Saturday, internet on Monday. Still no phone!

-The Roxter
--

From shaws at mlcltd.com  Thu Dec 20 15:01:19 2007
From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw)
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 16:01:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Just a note to say Thanks Kelvin.
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CECA0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D0CECA0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <6073850C-843B-4662-9B4A-E0D5ABF4E7F1@mlcltd.com>

Yesterday I was home ill, Doctors orders. I was instructed to do no  
work, but planning the winter project on the A is not work, right?

I had a few questions and an order to process with Moss in order to  
get things rolling. I called Kelvin, and as usual I got good answers,  
and valuable input about the proper way to proceed. (It turned out  
that the expensive was not the best way in my particular instance). I  
wanted to take a moment to say thanks to Kelvin in particular and  
Moss in general. You have been very helpful to me for over 30 years,  
now, and I continue to value this business relationship.

Other than the need for parts and instruction, I have no interest etc.

Bob Shaw
shaws at mlcltd.com
My MGA is not leaking,
It is merely marking its territory

From Mowog1 at aol.com  Thu Dec 20 20:11:48 2007
From: Mowog1 at aol.com (Mowog1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 22:11:48 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Needed - crankshaft for '52 MGTD MK II
Message-ID: <cb8.20ac8076.349c88f4@aol.com>

I am looking for a crankshaft for a stock 1952 mgtd mark II for an  
enthusiast who contacted me this evening. 

He doesn't care if the shaft  has to be reworked as long as it is not 
cracked. 

Thanks in  advance

rick ingram



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes 
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Dec 20 21:06:02 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 20:06:02 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Needed - crankshaft for '52 MGTD MK II
In-Reply-To: <cb8.20ac8076.349c88f4@aol.com>
References: <cb8.20ac8076.349c88f4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200712202006g49323e25x3efeabdcc0b1841@mail.gmail.com>

Shadetree Motors would have been the place for this, but with Skip
Kelsey's death, the business is up for sale and I don't know if anyone
is running it now.
http://www.shadetreemotors.com/

Regards,
Simon

On Dec 20, 2007 7:11 PM,  <Mowog1 at aol.com> wrote:
> I am looking for a crankshaft for a stock 1952 mgtd mark II for an
> enthusiast who contacted me this evening.
>
> He doesn't care if the shaft  has to be reworked as long as it is not
> cracked.

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Dec 21 08:22:52 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 10:22:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Needed - crankshaft for '52 MGTD MK II
Message-ID: <20071221.102455.1096.4.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Rick,
   Crankshafts for these engines are pretty scarce.  They are prone to
breakage at #1 and #4 rod journals, thought to be from a combination of
metal technology of the time and too-tight radius of the curve.  The MGB
crank is tough; TD cranks are brittle. 
   When I found mine cracked about ten years ago,  Ed Kaler (Just Brits)
said that cranks could be welded good as new.  Nobody else subscribed to
that belief, though he has been in the MG biz for many years.  Everyone
else suggested a new crank, which Moss was making then.  I believe they
are still in Moss catalogue.  
   Reworking the crank by grinding it undersize exacerbates the initial
problems, that of being small at the journals, and the tight radius of
journal to crank throw.  Kaler was the only one I've ever talked with who
thought that a crack could be mended. All other opinions were that if it
had cracked before it would shatter after being reworked.   
   The new Moss crank, though made in the orient, was inspected by a
couple of my tech/engineer friends who pronounced it a far better piece
of metal and machining than the original TD crank.
Bob

On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 22:11:48 EST Mowog1 at aol.com writes:
> I am looking for a crankshaft for a stock 1952 mgtd mark II for an  
> enthusiast who contacted me this evening. 
> 
> He doesn't care if the shaft  has to be reworked as long as it is 
> not  cracked. 
> 
> Thanks in  advance
> 
> rick ingram

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Dec 21 10:40:30 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 09:40:30 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Needed - crankshaft for '52 MGTD MK II
In-Reply-To: <20071221.102455.1096.4.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D198DFB@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Bob's comments about the original crank and the Moss crank are accurate,
except that the forged crank blanks are made in Sheffield England to our
specifications, not in the orient.

The blanks are then ground and heat treated by a very well known company
in Los Angeles.

They are expensive, but as Bob pointed out much stronger than original.



Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer,  Moss Motors, Ltd.
www.mossmotors.com
440 Rutherford Street
Goleta, CA 93117
Phone : 805.679.7023
Fax:      805.692.2520
E-mail: doddk at mossmotors.com



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Howard
> Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 7:23 AM
> To: Mowog1 at aol.com
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Needed - crankshaft for '52 MGTD MK II
>
>  Rick,
>    Crankshafts for these engines are pretty scarce.  They are
> prone to breakage at #1 and #4 rod journals, thought to be
> from a combination of metal technology of the time and
> too-tight radius of the curve.  The MGB crank is tough; TD
> cranks are brittle.
>    When I found mine cracked about ten years ago,  Ed Kaler
> (Just Brits) said that cranks could be welded good as new.
> Nobody else subscribed to that belief, though he has been in
> the MG biz for many years.  Everyone else suggested a new
> crank, which Moss was making then.  I believe they are still
> in Moss catalogue.
>    Reworking the crank by grinding it undersize exacerbates
> the initial problems, that of being small at the journals,
> and the tight radius of journal to crank throw.  Kaler was
> the only one I've ever talked with who thought that a crack
> could be mended. All other opinions were that if it
> had cracked before it would shatter after being reworked.
>    The new Moss crank, though made in the orient, was
> inspected by a couple of my tech/engineer friends who
> pronounced it a far better piece of metal and machining than
> the original TD crank.
> Bob

From mike at lempertgroup.com  Fri Dec 21 10:41:34 2007
From: mike at lempertgroup.com (Mike Lempert)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 12:41:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
Message-ID: <09bc01c843f8$bbbff8d0$6001a8c0@DadsPC>

There is also http://www.lempertwheels.com
 
 Regards,
Mike Lempert
 
>>David Woerpel wrote:
>> Eric J Russell wrote:
>>
>>> My friend's wife asked me for assistance locating a replacement
>>> steering wheel for their '72 Mini. All she can find are 13" steering
>>> wheels - they'd like something a little bigger.
>>>
>>> Moss Motors has a "New MINI" web page but I don't see anything for
>>> real Mini's. We can only find 13" steering wheels at MiniMania.
>>>
>>> Any other places to look?
>>>
>>> Eric Russell
>>> Mebane, NC
>>> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Eric,
>>
>> Try:  http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/our-products/your-car/default.aspx
>> and then find the car.  They're not inexpensive!  They do make a nice
>> John Cooper signature wheel in 14" or if you surf the site they have
>> others that are cheaper.
>>
>> There used to be a U.S. site but they now direct you to FinishLine and
>> they don't see to have the selection.  Maybe someone knows a U.S.
>> distributor.  Barney, who is the chap at the DuPage swap meet who
>> handles steering wheels?
> I have a friend in Sheffield that sells used Mini parts. The costs are 
> reasonable, especially since we don't have to pay the VAT.
> 
> I have not contacted Nick in some time, but this was his information:
> 
> Nick Rogers
> Sheffield Minibitz
> 101 Albert Road
> Heeley,
> Sheffield S8 9QX
> UK (England)
> 
> 0114 255 4630
> FAX  0114 258 2091
> 
> <nick at minibitz.force9.co.uk>
> 
> -The Roxter
> --
> 
> 
> ------------------------------

From Mowog1 at aol.com  Fri Dec 21 13:45:25 2007
From: Mowog1 at aol.com (Mowog1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:45:25 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Needed - crankshaft for '52 MGTD MK II
Message-ID: <c50.1e4938ad.349d7fe5@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/21/2007 11:40:22 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

Bob's  comments about the original crank and the Moss crank are accurate,
except  that the forged crank blanks are made in Sheffield England to  our
specifications, not in the orient.

The blanks are then ground  and heat treated by a very well known company
in Los Angeles.

They  are expensive, but as Bob pointed out much stronger than original.  





Thanks!
 
rick



**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes 
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Dec 21 17:07:18 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:07:18 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Gauge Calibration
Message-ID: <002b01c8442e$9eaafed0$6401a8c0@XPS400>

I am looking for information on how to calibrate the fuel gauge on my '66 MGB.
I am very familiar with the MGAGURU.COM web site and I used the information
there to successfully calibrate a fuel gauge on my Healey but the gauge in the
later MGB is of a different design.  There is a bimetal heated arm that bends
in response to current through the sending unit to ground and there are two
adjustment available to the mountings of the bimetal strip and the tensioning
spring but I don't know the current to use to make the adjustments.  Is there
some place I can look to find the resistance reading for the sending unit for
E, 1/2 and F ??

Thanks,
Ron

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Dec 21 17:31:38 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 19:31:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] "B" chocke cable
Message-ID: <001c01c84432$044bcff0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

has anyone figured out an easy way to install the complete choke cable on the
B, I've skinned my had over and over trying to tighten the nut under neat the
dash, maybe get a friend with small hands to do it?

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 21 17:35:31 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 18:35:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Barney's site
Message-ID: <106b01c84432$8fae0860$6401a8c0@Larry>

Is Barney's mgaguru site down?

Or is my computer trying to p__s me off?

Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 21 17:44:13 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:44:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Gauge Calibration
In-Reply-To: <002b01c8442e$9eaafed0$6401a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <960695.10879.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Ron.  Perhaps I can help.  Here are some pictures
that might help. 
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/gauge_oil_2.jpg  I'm testing
the oil pressure in this picture but in the notes you
can see that I have already tested the fuel gauge. 
This may help:

E    2.00 volts @  40mA
1/4  3.50 volts @  60mA
1/2  5.00 volts @ 85mA
3/4  6.50 volts @ 110mA
F    7.25 volts @ 120mA

rick


--- Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I am looking for information on how to calibrate the
> fuel gauge on my '66 MGB.
> I am very familiar with the MGAGURU.COM web site and
> I used the information
> there to successfully calibrate a fuel gauge on my
> Healey but the gauge in the
> later MGB is of a different design.  There is a
> bimetal heated arm that bends
> in response to current through the sending unit to
> ground and there are two
> adjustment available to the mountings of the bimetal
> strip and the tensioning
> spring but I don't know the current to use to make
> the adjustments.  Is there
> some place I can look to find the resistance reading
> for the sending unit for
> E, 1/2 and F ??
> 
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 21 17:48:12 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:48:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] "B" chocke cable
In-Reply-To: <001c01c84432$044bcff0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <467183.19479.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yes!  Been tere, done that.

Before you route the cable through the firewall,
thread a deep socket onto the cable.  It will give you
enough leverage (and something to grab) to tighten the
nut nicely.  Once the socket is removed and everything
is in place and straight, use a mirror and paint a
glob of fingernail polish or model car paint between
the nut and the threads to "lock" the nut from
vibration.

regards,

rick


--- 1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:

> has anyone figured out an easy way to install the
> complete choke cable on the
> B, I've skinned my had over and over trying to
> tighten the nut under neat the
> dash, maybe get a friend with small hands to do it?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at erickson.on.net  Fri Dec 21 18:03:26 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 11:33:26 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Barney's site
In-Reply-To: <106b01c84432$8fae0860$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <106b01c84432$8fae0860$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <2C9AB717-343D-4BCA-AA74-A777BD061415@erickson.on.net>

On 22/12/2007, at 11:05 AM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Is Barney's mgaguru site down?
>
> Or is my computer trying to p__s me off?
>
>


It isn't coming up for me either so don't throw your computer out the  
window.

Hopefully it is just a temporary glitch with the host and it will  
come back before too much longer.

I can ping the thing OK.

And just as I go to see if his web host (bluehost) is OK.... the site  
comes up!


There you go.  I fixed it for you - Merry Christmas.




Eric
Adelaide, South Australia

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Dec 21 18:06:37 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 20:06:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] "B" chocke cable
References: <467183.19479.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003101c84436$e6eb4440$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>

Thank you Rick, I'm going to try that tomorrow.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>; "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] "B" chocke cable


> Yes!  Been tere, done that.
>
> Before you route the cable through the firewall,
> thread a deep socket onto the cable.  It will give you
> enough leverage (and something to grab) to tighten the
> nut nicely.  Once the socket is removed and everything
> is in place and straight, use a mirror and paint a
> glob of fingernail polish or model car paint between
> the nut and the threads to "lock" the nut from
> vibration.
>
> regards,
>
> rick
>
>
> --- 1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:
>
> > has anyone figured out an easy way to install the
> > complete choke cable on the
> > B, I've skinned my hand over and over trying to
> > tighten the nut underneath the
> > dash, maybe get a friend with small hands to do it?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >
> > You are subscribed as rolindsay at yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date:
12/20/2007 2:14 PM

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 21 17:58:55 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:58:55 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] "B" chocke cable
In-Reply-To: <001c01c84432$044bcff0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <C391A14F.13D16%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That's the usual solution -- find a trained monkey or a 9-year-old...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/21/07 4:31 PM, 1971-red-mgb at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote:

> has anyone figured out an easy way to install the complete choke cable on the
> B, I've skinned my had over and over trying to tighten the nut under neat the
> dash, maybe get a friend with small hands to do it?
> _______________________________________________

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 21 18:10:34 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 19:10:34 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Barney's site
References: <106b01c84432$8fae0860$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<2C9AB717-343D-4BCA-AA74-A777BD061415@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <108201c84437$74db7a90$6401a8c0@Larry>

Thanks, Eric, you are brilliant!

You must be mid-season down under.  Breaking records this year?

Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Barney's site


On 22/12/2007, at 11:05 AM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Is Barney's mgaguru site down?
>
> Or is my computer trying to p__s me off?
>
>


It isn't coming up for me either so don't throw your computer out the  
window.

Hopefully it is just a temporary glitch with the host and it will  
come back before too much longer.

I can ping the thing OK.

And just as I go to see if his web host (bluehost) is OK.... the site  
comes up!


There you go.  I fixed it for you - Merry Christmas.




Eric
Adelaide, South Australia

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Dec 22 02:19:34 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 09:19:34 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Gauge Calibration
References: <002b01c8442e$9eaafed0$6401a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <007901c8447d$b8da1580$0200a8c0@Three>

The important thing with the later fuel gauge is to calibrate it to match 
the sender you have. Having changed senders twice on two cars I found that 
the first two, possibly replacing originals, were very different and both 
gauges needed recalibrating.  Of the 2nd two the one was OK but the other 
needed further recalibrating.

If you look on the back of the gauge there should be two holes with slotted 
plates in them, possibly covered by cork plugs.  Basically you twist the 
slotted plates to separately adjust the F (the slot closest to the F)  and E 
(ditto) readings.  Care is needed to use a tool that fills the slot as the 
plates are only thin, they can be quite stiff to turn, and it is easy to 
'round them out' if the screwdriver blade is too small.  Only a fraction of 
a turn is necessary, they are 'multi-turn'.  Adjust the F first by filling 
the tank, that's the easy bit.  Then run the tank down low in normal 
driving, and be aware that the gauge needle may stop moving some way before 
the tank runs out.  In my experience there is then something between a 
gallon and half a gallon left, but it will vary.  For the last bit siphon or 
use the pump to fill a container, listening to the pump all the while. Don't 
drive to run it out or the pump will be chattering for quite a long time 
before the float chambers empty and the engine stops, which won't do the 
pump any good.  Personally I then put a gallon back in, and only then 
adjusted the gauge to E, to give me a gallon 'reserve'.

More info and photos here: http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_electricsframe.htm
and click on 'Gauges' then scroll down to 'Calibrating the gauge'.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 12:07 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Fuel Gauge Calibration


>I am looking for information on how to calibrate the fuel gauge on my '66 
>MGB.
> I am very familiar with the MGAGURU.COM web site and I used the 
> information
> there to successfully calibrate a fuel gauge on my Healey but the gauge in 
> the
> later MGB is of a different design.  There is a bimetal heated arm that 
> bends
> in response to current through the sending unit to ground and there are 
> two
> adjustment available to the mountings of the bimetal strip and the 
> tensioning
> spring but I don't know the current to use to make the adjustments.  Is 
> there
> some place I can look to find the resistance reading for the sending unit 
> for
> E, 1/2 and F ??
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Dec 22 02:49:08 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 20:19:08 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Barney's site
In-Reply-To: <108201c84437$74db7a90$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <106b01c84432$8fae0860$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<2C9AB717-343D-4BCA-AA74-A777BD061415@erickson.on.net>
	<108201c84437$74db7a90$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <AD20AF2A-0E93-4E6B-B2F7-73C204308A4C@erickson.on.net>

On 22/12/2007, at 11:40 AM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Thanks, Eric, you are brilliant!
>
> You must be mid-season down under.  Breaking records this year?
>

Mid-season?

You don't want to be thrashing a 40 year old British car around a  
racetrack in 45C+ (110F+) temperatures.

Our competition season runs through Winter so we start again in March.

Despite running through Winter I have not seen my local track wet in  
almost ten years - we don't get much rain here (and no, no snow).

A few thousand bucks worth of work on the car and she will be ready  
for next year.

Now, any other web sites you want fixed?



Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 22 06:20:24 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 07:20:24 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Barney's site
References: <106b01c84432$8fae0860$6401a8c0@Larry><2C9AB717-343D-4BCA-AA74-A777BD061415@erickson.on.net><108201c84437$74db7a90$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<AD20AF2A-0E93-4E6B-B2F7-73C204308A4C@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <10dc01c8449d$69eea1a0$6401a8c0@Larry>

I guess I never paid that much attention as to when you started down there. 
I just assumed that your summer would occur during our winter and since we 
race during our summer (in the northern part of the country where I 
am --Wisconsin) that you would race during your summer.

I do see now that Adelaide is about the equivalent distance from the equater 
as our mid-south, so I guess it makes sense that your season is not too far 
off from ours in the northern U.S.  Hmmm, never thought about that before.

So... get to work on that car.  I do recall, from back 15 years ago when I 
quit racing, the frantic couple of months before the season began.  And the 
drain on the wallet, as well.

Good luck this year,

Larry

P.S. I'll yell out when I need a site fixed!



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Barney's site


On 22/12/2007, at 11:40 AM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Thanks, Eric, you are brilliant!
>
> You must be mid-season down under.  Breaking records this year?
>

Mid-season?

You don't want to be thrashing a 40 year old British car around a
racetrack in 45C+ (110F+) temperatures.

Our competition season runs through Winter so we start again in March.

Despite running through Winter I have not seen my local track wet in
almost ten years - we don't get much rain here (and no, no snow).

A few thousand bucks worth of work on the car and she will be ready
for next year.

Now, any other web sites you want fixed?



Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia
You are subscribed as ladaniels at sbcglobal.net


Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

http://www.team.net/archive 

From montejane at gmail.com  Sat Dec 22 09:36:46 2007
From: montejane at gmail.com (Monte/Jane Morris)
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 10:36:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] "B" chocke cable
In-Reply-To: <C391A14F.13D16%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <001c01c84432$044bcff0$3e8ada48@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<C391A14F.13D16%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <cab4b95c0712220836v793ccacfg3e2fb672168368f0@mail.gmail.com>

The socket is a great idea. I've fought this several times, and have to do
it again in the near future.
Monte

On 12/21/07, Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> That's the usual solution -- find a trained monkey or a 9-year-old...
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 12/21/07 4:31 PM, 1971-red-mgb at 1971mgb at cox.net wrote:
>
> > has anyone figured out an easy way to install the complete choke cable
> on the
> > B, I've skinned my had over and over trying to tighten the nut under
> neat the
> > dash, maybe get a friend with small hands to do it?
> > _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as montejane at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From barrie at look.ca  Sat Dec 22 11:13:15 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:13:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel for a 'real' Mini
In-Reply-To: <09bc01c843f8$bbbff8d0$6001a8c0@DadsPC>
References: <09bc01c843f8$bbbff8d0$6001a8c0@DadsPC>
Message-ID: <E1J68rA-00035W-NF@gamma.look.ca>

Hey,  If you had looked at www.britcot.com you would have seen 
Lempert's stuff !!
Here I am beating my brains (and that's not much!) out to find and 
list such goody makers...and you don't even look there !!!
Awwww I am so wounded! ......   :-).


At 12:41 PM 12/21/2007, Mike Lempert wrote:
>There is also http://www.lempertwheels.com
>
>  Regards,
>Mike Lempert
>
> >>David Woerpel wrote:
> >> Eric J Russell wrote:
> >>
> >>> My friend's wife asked me for assistance locating a replacement
> >>> steering wheel for their '72 Mini. All she can find are 13" steering
> >>> wheels - they'd like something a little bigger.
> >>>
> >>> Moss Motors has a "New MINI" web page but I don't see anything for
> >>> real Mini's. We can only find 13" steering wheels at MiniMania.
> >>>
> >>> Any other places to look?
> >>>
> >>> Eric Russell
> >>> Mebane, NC
> >>> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >> Eric,
> >>
> >> Try:  http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/our-products/your-car/default.aspx
> >> and then find the car.  They're not inexpensive!  They do make a nice
> >> John Cooper signature wheel in 14" or if you surf the site they have
> >> others that are cheaper.
> >>
> >> There used to be a U.S. site but they now direct you to FinishLine and
> >> they don't see to have the selection.  Maybe someone knows a U.S.
> >> distributor.  Barney, who is the chap at the DuPage swap meet who
> >> handles steering wheels?
> > I have a friend in Sheffield that sells used Mini parts. The costs are
> > reasonable, especially since we don't have to pay the VAT.
> >
> > I have not contacted Nick in some time, but this was his information:
> >
> > Nick Rogers
> > Sheffield Minibitz
> > 101 Albert Road
> > Heeley,
> > Sheffield S8 9QX
> > UK (England)
> >
> > 0114 255 4630
> > FAX  0114 258 2091
> >
> > <nick at minibitz.force9.co.uk>
> >
> > -The Roxter
> > --
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com  

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Sat Dec 22 14:21:14 2007
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:21:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Barney's site
Message-ID: <9070180.1152841198358474680.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web16-z01>

can you fix my computer also?    Mel in NC, USA 71BGT
---- 

Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote: 
> On 22/12/2007, at 11:05 AM, Larry Daniels wrote:
> 
> > Is Barney's mgaguru site down?
> >
> > Or is my computer trying to p__s me off?
> >
> >
> 
> 
> It isn't coming up for me either so don't throw your computer out the  
> window.
> 
> Hopefully it is just a temporary glitch with the host and it will  
> come back before too much longer.
> 
> I can ping the thing OK.
> 
> And just as I go to see if his web host (bluehost) is OK.... the site  
> comes up!
> 
> 
> There you go.  I fixed it for you - Merry Christmas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eric
> Adelaide, South Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Dec 22 20:40:48 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 14:10:48 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Barney's site
In-Reply-To: <10dc01c8449d$69eea1a0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <106b01c84432$8fae0860$6401a8c0@Larry><2C9AB717-343D-4BCA-AA74-A777BD061415@erickson.on.net><108201c84437$74db7a90$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<AD20AF2A-0E93-4E6B-B2F7-73C204308A4C@erickson.on.net>
	<10dc01c8449d$69eea1a0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <C3DF249B-4022-4CEF-9F08-CE70B38FD478@erickson.on.net>

On 22/12/2007, at 11:50 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:
>
>
> So... get to work on that car.  I do recall, from back 15 years ago  
> when I
> quit racing, the frantic couple of months before the season began.   
> And the
> drain on the wallet, as well.
>
>

Just to remind you - here is a ride in my car.

http://revver.com/video/338728/mgb-versus-the-rest/



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Dec 23 04:56:04 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 11:56:04 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Electronic trigger
Message-ID: <000501c8455b$1af5b570$0200a8c0@Three>

Anyone know what type of trigger this is?

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/2007_12230058_copy.JPG

The black square is a power transistor marked BU941ZT but there are no other 
markings on the unit.  It came to me as a 'gift' from someone who got it 
inside a 45D4 distributor obtained from eBay.  He couldn't get the engine to 
run properly until he replaced it with points and condenser (!) and was all 
set to bin it until I said I'd like it to have a fiddle with.

Thanks
PaulH. 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 23 11:10:11 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 10:10:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] NMGC, Anyone else getting stoked for the '08 F1 season?
Message-ID: <184062.40022.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yea, '07 isn't even through and I'm getting excited
about F1 in 2008. Sadly, I'm not going to participate
next year but I'll be running the caffeine drip at 6am
every other Sunday! And we have a night race this
coming season. That will be interesting. Still,
sports lighting is so good that from the sofa we may
not be able to tell the difference. I mean, they're
not installing headlight pods!

I'm torn between Ferrari, McLaren and Renault - but I
also like Williams and Spyker, which I believe was
sold for the '08 season.

I'm hoping that some of the Houston F1 fans can get
together next season. I mention Formula 1 Grand Prix
at work and everyone assumes I'm talking about the
CART race at Reliant Stadium (GP of Houston) or
NASCAR. I need to find some locals who speak my
language.

Best regards.

rick - MGB, Ferrari, Mercedes, BMW owner so you see my
mixed loyalty.  If only I had a Spyker...

From kgrowler at aol.com  Sun Dec 23 15:43:38 2007
From: kgrowler at aol.com (kgrowler at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 17:43:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG Song
Message-ID: <8CA13CC6500B360-2EA4-82D2@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>

Over the past few years Bob Zimmerman, former North American Midget Registrar,
has kindly given me copies of his CDs of his original music that he makes up
for family and friends. 'Roadster Therapy' is a great road song about his MG
from one a couple years ago. Bob has kindly posted MP3s of 'Roadster Therapy'
and some of his other car-related songs. B They can be found at
B http://www.garageband.com/artist/Zimmerman




Happy Holidays,




Kim Tonry

Downers Grove, Illinois

________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! -
http://webmail.aol.com

From jkk at adams.net  Sun Dec 23 16:37:25 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 17:37:25 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] NMGC, Anyone else getting stoked for the '08 F1  season?
References: <184062.40022.qm@web82312.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901c845bc$c6165660$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Yessir, it's going to be a mighty interesting season, what with all the 
driver changes and new rules. I wish they'd let them race on slicks THIS 
year.

And..........What's up with Michael testing for Ferrari?

Jim 

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 23 18:10:09 2007
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 20:10:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] e-bay scam
Message-ID: <BAY125-W29DE44000B8E690377F270BF590@phx.gbl>

Recent Scam Attempt









Like many other owners of classic cars I often review the Ebay section of
Vehicles for Sale usually looking at the MG range with special interest in the
T.Type. My interest is simple; what's for sale and how much?
I recently saw a 1953 MGTD in nice condition offered for $5,900. (Five
thousand nine hundred dollars) You don't have to be a expert to know that this
seems a rather low price for such a vehicle especially as the price included
transport to my garage. Thinking that there had to be an error in the printed
price I contacted the seller, Victoria Peterson @yahoo.com and asked if that
price was correct.
I received a reply telling me that the car had belonged to her late husband
who had recently passed away and she simply wanted the car out of her home as
it brought back too many memories. She estimated the sale price from an offer
she got from a local garage.
As I had been the first to contact her the car was mine and an official Ebay
Invoice came about an hour later on my computer screen. It directed me to
obtain a Money Gram from my local Wal-Mart Store and send it to Natalee
Matthews San-Jose CA Zip 95125.
I contacted the seller asking why a Money Gram was required and she referred
me to another Ebay contact

 aw-confirm at cgi4-ebaymotorspurchase.com.

 This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript
enabled to view it

 Their response was that to stop fraud they chose an Ebay contact who would
forward my payment to the seller and a receipt would be filed back to me for
reference. The Email was printed on Ebay headed paper and had all the
professional appearance of an official invoice from Ebay.
However there was no reference number in respect to the purchase which I found
strange and in order to get this number I returned to the MGT car section of
Ebay to find that the car had been withdrawn from the auction. Question: Was
this because I had agreed to purchase? However the fact that Ebay was
requesting that I use a Money Gram when they always recomend Pay Pall seemed
strange so I contacted Ebay Security asking why this change in policy.
Within two hours the reply came back. THIS IS A SCAM DO NOT SEND ANY MONEY.
EBAY NEVER ISSUES AN INVOICE OR GETS INVOLVED WITH THE PURCHASE OFANY ITEM. My
reaction was swift, the purchase was off!
I sent all the various Emails that I had received to the security people at
Ebay and sincerely hope that they catch these people before they try the same
thing again on some other poor individual. It was only because of my awareness
of Ebay requirements that saved me from being $5,900 out of pocket, also the
fact that a 1953 MGTD would never be sold for such a price. But I must admit
was tempted to send the money.
Every document I received from the scammers looked correct and professional,
like the phony checks from overseas banks purchasing your car for more than
you asked etc.
I always said that I would never be silly enough to be taken in by such a
hoax. How wrong can any one be!
Geoff Wheatley December 7th 2007

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Dec 23 18:31:04 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 12:01:04 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] e-bay scam
In-Reply-To: <BAY125-W29DE44000B8E690377F270BF590@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY125-W29DE44000B8E690377F270BF590@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EAB9AFC3-6D2F-47AF-813B-06E28CFDE03D@erickson.on.net>

On 24/12/2007, at 11:40 AM, Tuck Southworth wrote:

> Recent Scam Attempt
>
>

Thanks for the warning.

You should always heed those little alarm bells that go off in your  
head (no matter how faint) when dealing with these types of  
purchases.  And, of course, if it seems to good to be true.... etc.

I have found spoof at ebay.com and spoof at paypal.com actively monitored  
to look over any suspicious e-mail you send them that purports to be  
from either of those companies (especially as they are the same  
company these days).

By the way, I just received a Christmas Card e-mail from e-bay...  
should I regard it as suspicious or would I get a lump of coal in  
response if I forwarded it to the "spoof" address?

:-)



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From don at napanet.net  Sun Dec 23 21:15:11 2007
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 20:15:11 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] nigerian scam
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20071223201503.02e08008@pop.napanet.net>

On the subject of scams . . . this isn't an MG or eBay scam, but it's 
interesting nontheless.  I went to high school with this guy who got taken 
on a Nigerian scam.  But
there is more to the story.  Jim, a former hippie acid-head, evolved (or 
devolved?) into a conservative "businessman" and a staunch Republican and 
Christian.  He is presently in Seattle in federal prison.

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:pCNQUtpyhKgJ:www.dol.gov/ebsa/pdf/cepr 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Dec 23 21:40:19 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 22:40:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Xmas Card
References: <43840a7e0712222306o3be4fce5y3322896c0c6abc39@mail.gmail.com>
	<025f01c84598$83c96aa0$4fa40644@internetpc>
	<001301c8459e$4ba40990$c7a1bf46@personal>
Message-ID: <0cd301c845e7$1724f8c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>

Folks:

Cindy & I received a card from a couple of Big Healey friends of ours (close
to 30 years) that I    KNOW     you will want to see.  It is the absolute
PERFECT LBC card!!!!!!!

I have nor will have any financial interest.  Am just sharing!!!

Have a very Merry Christmas!!!!!

Ed & Cindy Kaler

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Dec 23 21:53:36 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:23:36 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Xmas Card
In-Reply-To: <0cd301c845e7$1724f8c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
References: <43840a7e0712222306o3be4fce5y3322896c0c6abc39@mail.gmail.com>
	<025f01c84598$83c96aa0$4fa40644@internetpc>
	<001301c8459e$4ba40990$c7a1bf46@personal>
	<0cd301c845e7$1724f8c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <FEE4DA80-3D32-4A72-9000-83243FCCCE51@erickson.on.net>

On 24/12/2007, at 3:10 PM, <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:

> Folks:
>
> Cindy & I received a card from a couple of Big Healey friends of  
> ours (close
> to 30 years) that I    KNOW     you will want to see.  It is the  
> absolute
> PERFECT LBC card!!!!!!!
>
> I have nor will have any financial interest.  Am just sharing!!!
>
> Have a very Merry Christmas!!!!!
>
> Ed & Cindy Kaler
>


Tease!

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Dec 23 21:55:44 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 22:55:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] [midgetsprite] Xmas Card
References: <43840a7e0712222306o3be4fce5y3322896c0c6abc39@mail.gmail.com>
	<025f01c84598$83c96aa0$4fa40644@internetpc>
	<001301c8459e$4ba40990$c7a1bf46@personal>
	<0cd301c845e7$1724f8c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <0dc601c845e9$3e4d29c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>

Ooops!!

In "Various Articles"!!!

www.justbrits.com (but you "knew" that part, right<G>).

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Dec 24 02:51:15 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 09:51:15 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] [midgetsprite] Xmas Card
References: <43840a7e0712222306o3be4fce5y3322896c0c6abc39@mail.gmail.com><025f01c84598$83c96aa0$4fa40644@internetpc><001301c8459e$4ba40990$c7a1bf46@personal><0cd301c845e7$1724f8c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
	<0dc601c845e9$3e4d29c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <008c01c84613$0de39240$0200a8c0@Three>

Nice, should've had Santa's elves driving though.

----- Original Message ----- 
> In "Various Articles"!!!
> 
> www.justbrits.com

From schultejim at msn.com  Mon Dec 24 06:02:06 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:02:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG 2008 room reservations
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV25D59F16FA45C4D3C0395DB590@phx.gbl>

I apologize to anyone having problems getting room reservations. We have had
an overwhelming response to our plea to reserve early.
The best method of reserving rooms now is to call the 800 number 800-325-3535
for the Sheraton. Reserve June 26th, 27th and 28th first at the $95.00 rate.
Then reserve Wednesday as a seperate one under the "MG Club" code. Which is
the $159.00 rate. If you try to register on line with your computer, you won't
get the special rate rooms. We have 50 or so rooms available for each night
Thursday through to and including Saturday. We have 20 rooms or so left at
$159.00 for Wednesday. We will set up a back up Hotel and have it ready for
the first of the year. If you have any problems, please email me immediately
and I will take care of it. Happy Holidays
Jim Schulte
Co-Coordinator MG 2008

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 24 06:25:31 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 05:25:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Interest in a T-series car
Message-ID: <203887.33569.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
   I am considering an MG T-series roadster.  I don't
know much about the breed but I love the look and I'm
not looking for performance.  Instead, I am looking
for a car to restore; the older the better.
   I would imagine that these cars are no longer to be
found in 'original' condition, just as there is
essentially no such thing as a Ferrari fixer-upper. 
Still, this is a hobby for me and I would really enjoy
a frame-up restoration/preservation of one of these
cars.
   Please tell me if you know of a good candidate
and/or can pass on advice.  My MGB will be complete
soon and I will sell/trade it to finance my next
venture.

rick / houston, tx

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Dec 24 08:55:43 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:55:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] [midgetsprite] Xmas Card
In-Reply-To: <008c01c84613$0de39240$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <43840a7e0712222306o3be4fce5y3322896c0c6abc39@mail.gmail.com>
	<025f01c84598$83c96aa0$4fa40644@internetpc>
	<001301c8459e$4ba40990$c7a1bf46@personal>
	<0cd301c845e7$1724f8c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
	<0dc601c845e9$3e4d29c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
	<008c01c84613$0de39240$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10712240755x14ebf693u11e4b96d1125ad60@mail.gmail.com>

I want a box of these!
Rick


On 12/24/07, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Nice, should've had Santa's elves driving though.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > In "Various Articles"!!!
> >
> > www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Dec 24 09:59:18 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 11:59:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] nigerian scam
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20071223201503.02e08008@pop.napanet.net>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20071223201503.02e08008@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <20071224182344.994C6187A48@autox.team.net>

Strange!  I cannot find any info on this with Google???

At 11:15 PM 23/12/2007, don wrote:
>On the subject of scams . . . this isn't an MG or eBay scam, but it's
>interesting nontheless.  I went to high school with this guy who got taken
>on a Nigerian scam.  But
>there is more to the story.  Jim, a former hippie acid-head, evolved (or
>devolved?) into a conservative "businessman" and a staunch Republican and
>Christian.  He is presently in Seattle in federal prison.
>
>http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:pCNQUtpyhKgJ:www.dol.gov/ebsa/pdf/cepr
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 
>12/22/2007 2:02 PM
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com 

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 24 11:45:19 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 12:45:19 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 31
In-Reply-To: <mailman.40458.1198520625.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.40458.1198520625.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <88CD0A44-63D0-4147-A6CE-98F7F1DEF65B@sbcglobal.net>

Don,  Your politics are noted but your still smokin if you think this  
guy is a Christian or a businessman for that matter....

On Dec 24, 2007, at 12:23 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> On the subject of scams . . . this isn't an MG or eBay scam, but it's
> interesting nontheless.  I went to high school with this guy who  
> got taken
> on a Nigerian scam.  But
> there is more to the story.  Jim, a former hippie acid-head,  
> evolved (or
> devolved?) into a conservative "businessman" and a staunch  
> Republican and
> Christian.  He is presently in Seattle in federal prison.
>
> http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:pCNQUtpyhKgJ:www.dol.gov/ebsa/ 
> pdf/cepr

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Dec 24 12:07:33 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 13:07:33 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Xmas Card
References: <43840a7e0712222306o3be4fce5y3322896c0c6abc39@mail.gmail.com>
	<025f01c84598$83c96aa0$4fa40644@internetpc>
	<001301c8459e$4ba40990$c7a1bf46@personal>
	<0cd301c845e7$1724f8c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
	<0dc601c845e9$3e4d29c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>
	<008c01c84613$0de39240$0200a8c0@Three>
	<a3b984e10712240755x14ebf693u11e4b96d1125ad60@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <130e01c84660$3dd0d4c0$6401a8c0@actualshop>

<<I want a box of these!>>

Well, ORDER them Rick!!    <G>

Why do you think I put a link one the page??    LOL

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Dec 24 12:31:18 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 13:31:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] nigerian scam
In-Reply-To: <20071224182344.994C6187A48@autox.team.net>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20071223201503.02e08008@pop.napanet.net>
	<20071224182344.994C6187A48@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <37078046-2CB8-405F-A2A5-2F133A9D2443@gmail.com>

In the mail over the weekend, I got a new Discover card.

Only problem was that I never applied for one.

I called and had them cancel it. Actually, I don't think they
did anything, because it was not activated. They tried to sell
me on the benifits of having a Discover card.

They told me that I applied online on Sunday the 16th.

Didn't happen.

Paul.


On Dec 24, 2007, at 10:59 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote:

> Strange!  I cannot find any info on this with Google???
>
> At 11:15 PM 23/12/2007, don wrote:
>> On the subject of scams . . . this isn't an MG or eBay scam, but it's
>> interesting nontheless.  I went to high school with this guy who  
>> got taken
>> on a Nigerian scam.  But
>> there is more to the story.  Jim, a former hippie acid-head,  
>> evolved (or
>> devolved?) into a conservative "businessman" and a staunch  
>> Republican and
>> Christian.  He is presently in Seattle in federal prison.
>>
>> http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:pCNQUtpyhKgJ:www.dol.gov/ebsa/pdf/cepr
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date:
>> 12/22/2007 2:02 PM
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>
>> You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>>
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> barrie at look.ca
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> www.britcot.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 24 16:08:22 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:08:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Right front axle rebuilt
Message-ID: <89613.75423.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Made a little progress on the '70 MGB.  Got the right
front axle rebuilt - except for seating the bearings
and then setting the right end-play.  Here are a few
pictures.  In one of them you can see the socket on
the axle nut.

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0840.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0841.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0842.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0843.JPG

Regards and Merry Christmas!

rick

From cattias at ucsc.edu  Mon Dec 24 17:25:00 2007
From: cattias at ucsc.edu (Chris Attias)
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 16:25:00 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] e-Bay Scams
Message-ID: <p06240800c395f5f78c42@[192.168.2.3]>

I've seen a lot of fraudulent offerings on e-Bay.  The most obvious 
ones give a low-ball sales price, even though they don't have a "Buy 
It Now" listing, and perhaps haven't completed enough sales to 
qualify for one by the eBay rules.

They often refer to problems with their e-Bay email and give another 
email address or phone number to call, and almost always ask for 
money via Western Union or some other money-gram.  A weirdly short 
listing period (what should be a $40,000 car on sale for a couple of 
days) is also a tip-off, as is a photo with a license plate or photo 
background that is at odds with the reputed address of the seller 
(example: a car with Arizona plates and palm trees in the background 
sold by some guy supposedly in West Virginia.)  Fraudulent listers 
often steal the photos from another site or listing.  Worst case I've 
seen was a series of listings using photos from a known midwestern 
dealer--the driveway and buildings across the street were very 
identifiable.  The fraudulent lister will also steal the description 
text from the original listing.

I'd heartily recommend an escrow agent for car purchases of any great 
value.  There's a maximum value that PayPal will protect you to, and 
most sellers don't like PayPal for anything beyond the deposit anyway.

I've seen some pretty obviously bad listings.  If it smells bad, I 
sometimes ask the seller direct questions about discrepancies in the 
listing.  Most frauds won't respond.  Sometimes eBay figures it out 
and writes to anyone contacting the lister via eBay to ask if the 
lister has contacted them about a direct purchase.  It usually takes 
them a day or two to check out and pull down the listing(s.)

If I see something suspicious and have the time, I write to eBay.  I 
remember writing about the TD:

>I recently saw a 1953 MGTD in nice condition offered for $5,900. (Five
>thousand nine hundred dollars) You don't have to be a expert to know that this
>seems a rather low price for such a vehicle especially as the price included
>transport to my garage. Thinking that there had to be an error in the printed
>price I contacted the seller, Victoria Peterson @yahoo.com and asked if that
>price was correct.
>I received a reply telling me that the car had belonged to her late husband
>who had recently passed away and she simply wanted the car out of her home as
>it brought back too many memories. She estimated the sale price from an offer
>she got from a local garage.

-- 
Chris Attias
Felton, CA
'64 MGB

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Dec 24 23:58:23 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 01:58:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
Message-ID: <E1J73o3-0008Sk-Ie@alpha.look.ca>

I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  Every 
damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they think 
we are.  SO this is the ploy I use to get back at these stupid price 
tags.  I go into a shop to buy something and tell the clerk that I 
find 9999 prices offensive and insulting - so I want him to show me 
whatever (shirts, tools, etc etc) but if he/she gives any price in 
99999 I will walk out and NOT buy anything.  So then the fun begins 
!!!  He/she will struggle to quote $50 instead of $49.99 etc etc.  I 
allow one mistake but on the second - I look at the number of goodies 
I was going to buy....and walk out - to return next day IF I have 
seen anything I really want.  It is tremendous fun!   I continually 
fight this insane doohickey and call people idiots when they quote me 
in 999999999.  Isn't it about time we put a stop to this - As MG 
people we should lead the way !!!!

There are houses here that are advertised at $399,999.99 - I kid you not !!!!!!

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 25 10:03:40 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 09:03:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Brake failure warning switch
Message-ID: <336511.31371.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good morning folks and Merry Christmas!

Question for the folks who know brakes:  Should the
brake failure warning switch be disassembled to clean
it?  Is that even possible?  Or should I just clean
and flush it with brake fluid on the workbench until
the internal piston moves freely?  Advice?

My car has a new master cylinder (done by PO) and I
have replaced all the flex lines, rebuilt the front
calipers and replaced the rear slave cylinders.  I now
need to flush out the hard pipes before reconnecting. 
My guess is that I should do that in the same order as
bleeding the brakes - longest pipe run first working
toward the left front (LHD).

The old fluid in my car is still clear so I don't have
much threat of decomposed rubber in the system. 
Still, it will all be flushed clean and recharged
properly.

rick / '70 Split-bumper Tourer

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 25 11:55:18 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:55:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
In-Reply-To: <E1J73o3-0008Sk-Ie@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <189817.77785.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:

> I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  Every
> damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they
> think we are.  

Well, your real enemy isn't the poor clerk, but Mr. James Cash
Penney (real name) who popularized this pricing strategy in
his stores in 1902.  He must have been on to something, because
JC Penney is a very successful department store chain to this
day.  I find the malls themselves so annyoing that anything
that happens within the individual stores pales in comparison.



David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 25 12:31:31 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 13:31:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 33
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1198609201.12863.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1198609201.12863.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6F7C3D12-0853-4D17-90E3-EE63264F17C5@sbcglobal.net>

David is right here.  Pricing, marketing and selling is all about  
psychology. People see the lower number even if it is only a penny  
lower and even when they know better.  We whine about the cost of gas  
and let auto dealers rip us off big time.   The bigger the scam, the  
easier it is to fall for it.  My favorite is called value selling.   
Two products sit side by side on the shelf manufactured by the same  
company.  One 35% more.  Functionally they will accomplish the same  
thing but one has fancier trim, 5 settings instead of 2,  dual colors  
and so on.



>
>> I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  Every
>> damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they
>> think we are.
>
> Well, your real enemy isn't the poor clerk, but Mr. James Cash
> Penney (real name) who popularized this pricing strategy in
> his stores in 1902.  He must have been on to something, because
> JC Penney is a very successful department store chain to this
> day.  I find the malls themselves so annyoing that anything
> that happens within the individual stores pales in comparison.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Dec 25 15:10:38 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 14:10:38 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
In-Reply-To: <E1J73o3-0008Sk-Ie@alpha.look.ca>
References: <E1J73o3-0008Sk-Ie@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10712251410n55dd5762lb712f3c6c064b01d@mail.gmail.com>

You do realize that the clerk who you are tormenting is not the one that set
the prices.
It is obvious that you have never worked at a retail store, or you would not
do such a thing to someone that is probably making just above minimum wage.
Boy I bet you feel proud of this action.  What a great humanitarian thing to
share on Christmas.  :: Rolls eyes:::
This rates right up there with tormenting a waitress about the menu prices.
It is to the clerk's credit that they don't tell you to go pound sand up
your ass.
Before you try this stunt again, may I suggest you work for 3 months or so
(Preferably just before Christmas) in a retail store and then come back and
tell us just how "funny" this is.

Rick



On Dec 24, 2007 10:58 PM, Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:

> I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  Every
> damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they think
> we are.  SO this is the ploy I use to get back at these stupid price
> tags.  I go into a shop to buy something and tell the clerk that I
> find 9999 prices offensive and insulting - so I want him to show me
> whatever (shirts, tools, etc etc) but if he/she gives any price in
> 99999 I will walk out and NOT buy anything.  So then the fun begins
> !!!  He/she will struggle to quote $50 instead of $49.99 etc etc.  I
> allow one mistake but on the second - I look at the number of goodies
> I was going to buy....and walk out - to return next day IF I have
> seen anything I really want.  It is tremendous fun!   I continually
> fight this insane doohickey and call people idiots when they quote me
> in 999999999.  Isn't it about time we put a stop to this - As MG
> people we should lead the way !!!!
>
> There are houses here that are advertised at $399,999.99 - I kid you not
> !!!!!!
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> http://www.britcot.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Dec 26 06:37:24 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 08:37:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Brake failure warning switch
Message-ID: <20071226.090143.2432.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

Rick,
   When changing fluid on my MGB, I have just flushed clear fluid through
the warning switch w/o removing it from the car or disassembling.  It
appears to me that, unless there were a large clot of rubber stuck in the
thing, it would work because of the pressures involved. 
    The piston inside should be centered normally. If there is a
difference in pressure in the front / rear circuits, the high pressure in
one pushes piston to the low-pressure side, and (with luck) activates the
warning light circuit.  
  It seems to me, then, that you could flush it in place satisfactorily,
and, by building pressure in one side then the other, determine that the
shuttle is moving. Eventually you must get the piston back to center
anyway, and the movement of the piston would dislodge any dirt in the
unit.  Last time I looked, Moss had the repair part kit and the switch in
catalogue.
Bob

    
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 09:03:40 -0800 (PST) Rick Lindsay
<rolindsay at yahoo.com> writes:
> Good morning folks and Merry Christmas!
> 
> Question for the folks who know brakes:  Should the
> brake failure warning switch be disassembled to clean
> it?  Is that even possible?  Or should I just clean
> and flush it with brake fluid on the workbench until
> the internal piston moves freely?  Advice?
> 
> My car has a new master cylinder (done by PO) and I
> have replaced all the flex lines, rebuilt the front
> calipers and replaced the rear slave cylinders.  I now
> need to flush out the hard pipes before reconnecting. 
> My guess is that I should do that in the same order as
> bleeding the brakes - longest pipe run first working
> toward the left front (LHD).
> 
> The old fluid in my car is still clear so I don't have
> much threat of decomposed rubber in the system. 
> Still, it will all be flushed clean and recharged
> properly.
> 
> rick / '70 Split-bumper Tourer

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Dec 26 06:24:55 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 08:24:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
Message-ID: <20071226.090143.2432.0.MGBOB@juno.com>

  There is another explanation for this less-than-even dollar pricing,
one I read in Invention & Technology magazine, I believe.
  This story said that in the early days of cash registers, when
customers were not accustomed to them and did not necessarily expect that
they would be used for each transaction, merchants learned that 95 cent
and 99 cent pricing would usually require the clerk to make change. To
make change, he had to use the cash register, thus causing the bell to
ring and the cash drawer to open. 
Bob

 
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:55:18 -0800 (PST) David Breneman
<david_breneman at yahoo.com> writes:
> --- Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:
> 
> > I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  
> Every
> > damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they
> > think we are.  
> 
> Well, your real enemy isn't the poor clerk, but Mr. James Cash
> Penney (real name) who popularized this pricing strategy in
> his stores in 1902.  He must have been on to something, because
> JC Penney is a very successful department store chain to this
> day.  I find the malls themselves so annyoing that anything
> that happens within the individual stores pales in comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
> 
> 
>       
>
_________________________________________________________________________
___________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dave at camptownshakers.com  Wed Dec 26 07:25:55 2007
From: dave at camptownshakers.com (dave at camptownshakers.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 06:25:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1198609201.12863.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1198609201.12863.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1085.71.185.34.63.1198679155.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>

Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> writes:
> I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  Every
> damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they think
> we are.  SO this is the ploy I use to get back at these stupid price
> tags.  I go into a shop to buy something and tell the clerk that I
> find 9999 prices offensive and insulting - so I want him to show me
> whatever (shirts, tools, etc etc) but if he/she gives any price in
> 99999 I will walk out and NOT buy anything.  So then the fun begins
> !!!  He/she will struggle to quote $50 instead of $49.99 etc etc.  I
> allow one mistake but on the second - I look at the number of goodies
> I was going to buy....and walk out - to return next day IF I have
> seen anything I really want.  It is tremendous fun!   I continually
> fight this insane doohickey and call people idiots when they quote me
> in 999999999.

So let me see if I understand, you find your fun in picking on minimum
wage clothing store employees who would probably love to tell you where to
shove the 99 cents but need the job?



> Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 01:58:23 -0500
> From: Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca>
> Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
> To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net,mgs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <E1J73o3-0008Sk-Ie at alpha.look.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  Every
> damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they think
> we are.  SO this is the ploy I use to get back at these stupid price
> tags.  I go into a shop to buy something and tell the clerk that I
> find 9999 prices offensive and insulting - so I want him to show me
> whatever (shirts, tools, etc etc) but if he/she gives any price in
> 99999 I will walk out and NOT buy anything.  So then the fun begins
> !!!  He/she will struggle to quote $50 instead of $49.99 etc etc.  I
> allow one mistake but on the second - I look at the number of goodies
> I was going to buy....and walk out - to return next day IF I have
> seen anything I really want.  It is tremendous fun!   I continually
> fight this insane doohickey and call people idiots when they quote me
> in 999999999.  Isn't it about time we put a stop to this - As MG
> people we should lead the way !!!!
>
> There are houses here that are advertised at $399,999.99 - I kid you not
> !!!!!!
>
> Regards
> Barrie

From timfboston at aol.com  Wed Dec 26 08:19:04 2007
From: timfboston at aol.com (timfboston at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 10:19:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGRV8
Message-ID: <8CA15E9C8E76916-B7C-7D7@MBLK-M39.sysops.aol.com>

There is an MGRV8 listed on Ebay that has been converted to LH drive.? The listing states that they ship to the USA, but I wonder if you would be able to register it here in the USA.

Regards,

Tim
1971 MGB

________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Dec 26 08:55:08 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 09:55:08 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] MGRV8
In-Reply-To: <8CA15E9C8E76916-B7C-7D7@MBLK-M39.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CA15E9C8E76916-B7C-7D7@MBLK-M39.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <22351237-CA08-4D9A-A69F-356696D07EB2@gmail.com>

I wouldn't think it would be too much of a problem.

The engine is already ok for the US, used in the Rovers. And you can  
grey market
import it for yourself.

I know of a '94 Austin Mini that came from Germany, it was re- 
registered as a '74
there, and imported without a fuss.

Oh, ebay id: 320199558005

And it's not that Woodcott Green. Very nice.

On Dec 26, 2007, at 9:19 AM, timfboston at aol.com wrote:

> There is an MGRV8 listed on Ebay that has been converted to LH  
> drive.? The listing states that they ship to the USA, but I wonder  
> if you would be able to register it here in the USA.
>
> Regards,
>
> Tim
> 1971 MGB
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Dec 26 09:58:34 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 03:28:34 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] MGRV8
In-Reply-To: <22351237-CA08-4D9A-A69F-356696D07EB2@gmail.com>
References: <8CA15E9C8E76916-B7C-7D7@MBLK-M39.sysops.aol.com>
	<22351237-CA08-4D9A-A69F-356696D07EB2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1E253853-9331-46C4-85CE-EFA11771BF68@erickson.on.net>

On 27/12/2007, at 2:25 AM, Paul Root wrote:

> I wouldn't think it would be too much of a problem.
>
> The engine is already ok for the US, used in the Rovers. And you can
> grey market
> import it for yourself.
>
> I know of a '94 Austin Mini that came from Germany, it was re-
> registered as a '74
> there, and imported without a fuss.
>
> Oh, ebay id: 320199558005
>
> And it's not that Woodcott Green. Very nice.

I've never seen one in Blue before, looks cool.

I don't know what the reserve is but looking at the prices these  
beasts sell for in Australia if it is much less than $30,000 then it  
is a good deal.

Here is a quote on pricing here:

"Japanese cars are the only ones we are able to comply under RAWS  
(Registered Automotive Workshop Scheme) and with British importers in  
the market as well it's getting a bit difficult to find low-kilometre  
cars at reasonable prices," Radcliff said. "Red cars are the most  
popular and expensive but it's certainly still possible to import and  
comply a very good RV8 for less than $45,000."

"Cars that have been in this country for close to ten years and  
showing 50,000-80,000km can be acquired for less than $35,000, with  
untidy examples needing trim repairs and mechanical work in the  
$25,000-30,000 bracket."



Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Dec 26 10:43:21 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 12:43:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
In-Reply-To: <20071226.090143.2432.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20071226.090143.2432.0.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <E1J7aZQ-0000Ko-Po@epsilon.look.ca>

A $1, $10, $20 or whatever note STILL has to go into the till even 
when change is not required - but with taxes the final price is more 
than a straight 00000 price !!!  If the clerk is going crooked there 
is better chance to steal when till is open!  My father, when 
retired, took on a pub in England (oh happy days!!!).  He told me to 
watch fingers when the register till was open - It was the best place 
and time for the staff to snaffle a few bob.


At 08:24 AM 12/26/2007, Bob Howard wrote:
>   There is another explanation for this less-than-even dollar pricing,
>one I read in Invention & Technology magazine, I believe.
>   This story said that in the early days of cash registers, when
>customers were not accustomed to them and did not necessarily expect that
>they would be used for each transaction, merchants learned that 95 cent
>and 99 cent pricing would usually require the clerk to make change. To
>make change, he had to use the cash register, thus causing the bell to
>ring and the cash drawer to open.
>Bob
>
>
>On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:55:18 -0800 (PST) David Breneman
><david_breneman at yahoo.com> writes:
> > --- Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:
> >
> > > I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.
> > Every
> > > damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they
> > > think we are.
> >
> > Well, your real enemy isn't the poor clerk, but Mr. James Cash
> > Penney (real name) who popularized this pricing strategy in
> > his stores in 1902.  He must have been on to something, because
> > JC Penney is a very successful department store chain to this
> > day.  I find the malls themselves so annyoing that anything
> > that happens within the individual stores pales in comparison.
> >
> >
> >
> > David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>_________________________________________________________________________
>___________
> > Be a better friend, newshound, and
> > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
> > http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >
> > You are subscribed as mgbob at juno.com
> >
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Dec 26 11:28:25 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 13:28:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Totally off topic but funny
In-Reply-To: <1085.71.185.34.63.1198679155.squirrel@www.camptownshakers. com>
References: <mailman.11.1198609201.12863.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<1085.71.185.34.63.1198679155.squirrel@www.camptownshakers.com>
Message-ID: <E1J7b02-0008CZ-Cq@epsilon.look.ca>

So let me see - You assume the clerk is maudlin idiot just because he 
was working there?  Are you suggesting that I, as a poorly paid 
worker in pre-University days, did not have gumption to tell 
management that customers did not like something?

My recent exploits have shown me that most of retail staff agree that 
9999 pricing is awkward and dumb - and a clerk in Future Shop and I, 
had a great time laughing as he stumbled over the 9999 prices.  I bet 
he chats to his boss and passes on the message that some customers 
are not too keen on 9999 pricing.  Enough of us make this point and 
maybe we will get back to sensible pricing.

.....as a corollary, I always complement people who have even prices!
Down to earth, straight from the hip, no nonsense  Saturday market 
people all have even prices (well at our market anyway!)

At 09:25 AM 12/26/2007, dave at camptownshakers.com wrote:
>Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> writes:
> > I get extremely annoyed at this 999.999 price list business.  Every
> > damn price tag is in the 99999 class - I mean how dumb do they think
> > we are.  SO this is the ploy I use to get back at these stupid price
> > tags.  I go into a shop to buy something and tell the clerk that I
> > find 9999 prices offensive and insulting - so I want him to show me
> > whatever (shirts, tools, etc etc) but if he/she gives any price in
> > 99999 I will walk out and NOT buy anything.  So then the fun begins
> > !!!  He/she will struggle to quote $50 instead of $49.99 etc etc.  I
> > allow one mistake but on the second - I look at the number of goodies
> > I was going to buy....and walk out - to return next day IF I have
> > seen anything I really want.  It is tremendous fun!   I continually
> > fight this insane doohickey and call people idiots when they quote me
> > in 999999999.
>
>So let me see if I understand, you find your fun in picking on minimum
>wage clothing store employees who would probably love to tell you where to
>shove the 99 cents but need the job?
>
>
>
> > Regards
> > Barrie
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

Regards

Barrie Robinson
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm            TRY 
www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies

From stargazer1 at cox.net  Wed Dec 26 13:03:14 2007
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 12:03:14 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Brake failure warning switch
In-Reply-To: <20071226.090143.2432.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20071226.090143.2432.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <4772B382.9040400@cox.net>

>>Question for the folks who know brakes:  Should the
>>brake failure warning switch be disassembled to clean
>>it?  Is that even possible?  Or should I just clean
>>and flush it with brake fluid on the workbench until
>>the internal piston moves freely?  Advice?
>>    
>>
Moss supplies an inexpensive rebuild kit that contains the piston seals 
and, IIRC, a couple of springs. Probably worth doing if you have 
everything else apart, but I wouldn't muck around with it unless it was 
leaking. It's easy enough to rebuild once you get the thing off. Liquid 
wrench and proper flare wrenches will be good friends if you need to 
remove it. Most of these things haven't seen any attention since the car 
was built so all the fittings tend to be rusted or locked in tight from 
thermal cycling.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 26 13:11:02 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 12:11:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Did a little MGB tuning today
Message-ID: <206689.38787.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
   Today I finished the RF axle and brakes and decided
to start the car and bring the engine up to
temperature.  After getting it started (been a few
months since it has run) I balanced the carbs and
re-tweaked the carb balance.  I then reset the linkage
adjustments and since the engine was at operating
temperature, I set the idle speed.  

Here are some details with questions embedded.  Please
share your opinions.

Car: 1970 Split-bumper MGB Tourer

Engine: 1965 18GB engine installed by some PO

Distributor: 25D4  #40879 A 864 w/10 degree c-adv.
Vacuum capsule: 54411230  5-13-10

Static timing: 10 degrees BTDC
Actual static timing: 10 degrees BTDC

Recommended timing: 14 degrees BTDC @ 600 rpm
Actual timing: 10 degrees BTDC @ 1000 rpm

Recommended idle: 600 rpm (?)
Actual idle: 800-1000rpm (lowest stable speed)
Question: Your cars actually idle smoothly at 600rpm?

Recommended points gap: 0.014"-0.016" gap
Actual points gap: 0.015"

Recommended dwell: 60 degrees
Actual dwell: 50 degrees
Question: Too much difference, recommend readjustment?

Recommended plugs: N9CY @ 0.024" gap
Actual plugs: N9CY @ 0.024" gap

Vacuum: Optimized to -16psi (gauge), measured at
manifold, and stable at idle (+/- 1/2 psi, max)

Engine smooth through entire engine speed range (up to
4k), once warmed up.  No smoke of any color.  Will do
a hot compression test, dry and wet, later and when I
next start the car.  Little bit of valve train noise. 
Nothing abnormal.  Nice exhaust note if a little
rattly (old worn muffler).

I haven't yet set the air balance when on the
high-idle choke cams.  Have to wait until the engine
is cold again to do it right.

Okay, one corner left to rebuild and a bleed of the
whole brakes and we're back on the road.  Oh yea, I
have to repaint the wheels.  Will just do a touch-up
spray job as they are not bad, just tatty.

regards,

rick / houston, tx

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 26 14:25:23 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 13:25:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Good news and bad news
Message-ID: <593412.11232.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Gang,
   I did the compression test on a hot engine and here
is what I found:

Cyl.   Dry      Wet
-----+--------+-------
  1   130 psi  136 psi
  2   105 psi  110 psi
  3   130 psi  136 psi
  4   130 psi  135 psi

Interpretation:

Bottom end good, top end bad on cylinder #2.  This car
has not been driven in many months but that's not
enough lack of use to account for the #2 pressure
drop.  What this tells me is that the head needs a
valve job.

So it sounds like I now have a little more
mechanic-work before the winter is out.  I'd better go
now.  I have a workplan to build.  Okay, I have to
admit.  I look forward to this work.  I like the
precision of seating then adjusting valves.

regards,

rick
'70 MGB Tourer with an ill 18GB engine. :-)

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 26 15:13:49 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:13:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Rear axle nut socket
Message-ID: <761935.81930.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Gang,
   You guys found a good source for a thin-wall socket
to fit the rear axle nut on a wire-wheel '70 B?

rick

From lundgren at byu.net  Wed Dec 26 16:22:18 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 16:22:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Rear axle nut socket
In-Reply-To: <761935.81930.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <761935.81930.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4772E22A.2090402@byu.net>

The snap-on supposedly works.  I have an Ace Hardware brand one for the job.

--
Andrew

Rick Lindsay wrote:
> Hey Gang,
>    You guys found a good source for a thin-wall socket
> to fit the rear axle nut on a wire-wheel '70 B?
>
> rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as lundgren at byu.net
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Dec 26 16:25:53 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 17:25:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Good news and bad news
In-Reply-To: <593412.11232.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <593412.11232.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4772E301.6000306@gmail.com>

Rick Lindsay wrote:
> Hello Gang,
>    I did the compression test on a hot engine and here
> is what I found:
>
> Cyl.   Dry      Wet
> -----+--------+-------
>   1   130 psi  136 psi
>   2   105 psi  110 psi
>   3   130 psi  136 psi
>   4   130 psi  135 psi
>
> Interpretation:
>
> Bottom end good, top end bad on cylinder #2.  This car
> has not been driven in many months but that's not
> enough lack of use to account for the #2 pressure
> drop.  What this tells me is that the head needs a
> valve job.
>
> So it sounds like I now have a little more
> mechanic-work before the winter is out.  I'd better go
> now.  I have a workplan to build.  Okay, I have to
> admit.  I look forward to this work.  I like the
> precision of seating then adjusting valves.
>
> regards,
>
> rick
> '70 MGB Tourer with an ill 18GB engine. :-)
You probably were already aware of this, but just in case: I always set the valve clearances before doing a compression test. I have done this ever since I removed a head unnecessarily on a Mini in 1964. The cylinder I thought had a bad valve actually had the clearances set too tight on one valve (I assume), since, when I got the head off, all the valves were in fine shape.

-The Roxter
--

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 26 17:00:25 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 16:00:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] A few pictures of the tear-down for the top-end job
Message-ID: <188148.57166.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Before I list the tear-down pictures, here is a
picture of the '70 B's completed right-front axle: 

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0848.JPG

I have started the top-end job on my MGB.  Here are a
couple of pictures as the tear-down begins.

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0851.JPG is a picture
with the inlet and exhaust headers removed or
disconnected.  The coolant has not yet been drained so
I have not opened that system.

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0852.JPG is a picture of
the right-hand side.  You can see the heater control
valve that I forgot to change when I had the coolant
system apart.  I'll change it now.  BTW, I did verify
that there is adequate valve clearance and that a
closed-up clearance is not the problem.

http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0853.JPG shows the carbs
and manifold, plus a few tools, on the workbench. 
I'll need to store these parts carefully so as to get
a little more work-space on the bench to rebuild the
head.

So that's it for Wednesday evening...

rick

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 27 07:47:26 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 06:47:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] A few pictures of the tear-down for the top-end job
In-Reply-To: <002101c84895$9a53a880$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <634476.75026.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good eyes Hans!

The engine in this '70 MGB is a 1965 18GB.  The
alternator is a cludged upgrade done by some PO.  My
plan is to clean this mod up - or at lease paint the
water pipe parts black!

Regards,

rick

--- Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:

> Weird suspended alternator Rick.
> 
> Looks like the engine is more an older type with a
> dynamo type.
> 
> Right?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Hans
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
> To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 1:00 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] A few pictures of the tear-down for
> the top-end job
> 
> 
> > Before I list the tear-down pictures, here is a
> > picture of the '70 B's completed right-front axle:
> >
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0848.JPG
> >
> > I have started the top-end job on my MGB.  Here
> are a
> > couple of pictures as the tear-down begins.
> >
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0851.JPG is a picture
> > with the inlet and exhaust headers removed or
> > disconnected.  The coolant has not yet been
> drained so
> > I have not opened that system.
> >
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0852.JPG is a picture
> of
> > the right-hand side.  You can see the heater
> control
> > valve that I forgot to change when I had the
> coolant
> > system apart.  I'll change it now.  BTW, I did
> verify
> > that there is adequate valve clearance and that a
> > closed-up clearance is not the problem.
> >
> > http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0853.JPG shows the
> carbs
> > and manifold, plus a few tools, on the workbench.
> > I'll need to store these parts carefully so as to
> get
> > a little more work-space on the bench to rebuild
> the
> > head.
> >
> > So that's it for Wednesday evening...
> >
> > rick
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> >
> > You are subscribed as h.duinhoven at planet.nl
> >
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> >
> > -- 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1198 -
> Release Date: 
> > 26-12-2007 17:26

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Dec 27 07:48:42 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 14:48:42 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Rear axle nut socket
References: <761935.81930.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01ad01c84898$a645a4b0$0200a8c0@Three>

Got mine off the shelf from the local (UK) place.  If you get a 1/2" drive 
non-impact you *should* be OK, it's the 3/4" and impact that may be too big. 
The hubs seem to have an ID of around 1.8", and my socket is 1.73".

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   You guys found a good source for a thin-wall socket
> to fit the rear axle nut on a wire-wheel '70 B?

From mvrose at charter.net  Thu Dec 27 09:10:24 2007
From: mvrose at charter.net (Valda and Merl Rosenthal)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 08:10:24 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Anti freeze Weep From Head Gasket
Message-ID: <001301c848a2$fdcecef0$aa43ba44@Primary>

I just completed the rebuild of my MGB. I rebuilt the engine and re-torqued
the head bolts after approximately 300 miles.  After 2,400 miles, I just
noticed a weep of anti freeze coming from the head gasket above my spark
plugs.  I have the following questions:

Is this normal or should I re-torque the head bolts?  Some where I thought I
read this was normal on an MG.

If I re-torque do I do it hot or cold?

If I re-torque do I loosen all the head bolts and start over or do I re-torque
from there current torque values?


Any guidance would be appreciated.  I have also included some pictures of my
restoration


Merl Rosenthal

1980 MGB

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of large card 003.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of finish 047.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0529.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0524.JPG]

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Dec 27 09:13:06 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 08:13:06 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Anti freeze Weep From Head Gasket
In-Reply-To: <001301c848a2$fdcecef0$aa43ba44@Primary>
References: <001301c848a2$fdcecef0$aa43ba44@Primary>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10712270813q69e5c197qd6cb49ff5cb95f7f@mail.gmail.com>

This is not normal in my experience.
Retorque cold. I would suggest that you loosen each bolt and then retighten
it before going to the next.
You might also consider using another torque wrench.  If yours has not been
calibrated It could very well be giving a low reading.
$.02
Rick

On Dec 27, 2007 8:10 AM, Valda and Merl Rosenthal <mvrose at charter.net>
wrote:

> I just completed the rebuild of my MGB. I rebuilt the engine and
> re-torqued
> the head bolts after approximately 300 miles.  After 2,400 miles, I just
> noticed a weep of anti freeze coming from the head gasket above my spark
> plugs.  I have the following questions:
>
> Is this normal or should I re-torque the head bolts?  Some where I thought
> I
> read this was normal on an MG.
>
> If I re-torque do I do it hot or cold?
>
> If I re-torque do I loosen all the head bolts and start over or do I
> re-torque
> from there current torque values?
>
>
> Any guidance would be appreciated.  I have also included some pictures of
> my
> restoration
>
>
> Merl Rosenthal
>
> 1980 MGB
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> large card 003.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> finish 047.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_0529.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_0524.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Dec 27 09:37:57 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:37:57 EST
Subject: [Mgs] Anti freeze Weep From Head Gasket
Message-ID: <cb3.253def8e.34a52ee5@aol.com>

Merl:
 
You can get some weeping without there being a real leak, BUT here is how  to 
check the nuts.
 
With a cast iron head, retorque at operating temperature.
 
Do the nuts one at a time. Back them off about 1/3 turn and then bring it  up 
to spec again.
 
If you don't crack them a hair first you will get false values as they  can 
take more torque to break loose than they are actually exerting on the  stud.
 
Bill
 
 
 
In a message dated 12/27/2007 8:04:11 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
mvrose at charter.net writes:

I just  completed the rebuild of my MGB. I rebuilt the engine and re-torqued
the  head bolts after approximately 300 miles.  After 2,400 miles, I  just
noticed a weep of anti freeze coming from the head gasket above my  spark
plugs.  I have the following questions:

Is this normal or  should I re-torque the head bolts?  Some where I thought I
read this  was normal on an MG.

If I re-torque do I do it hot or cold?

If I  re-torque do I loosen all the head bolts and start over or do I  
re-torque
from there current torque  values?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Dec 27 09:37:37 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 16:37:37 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Anti freeze Weep From Head Gasket
References: <001301c848a2$fdcecef0$aa43ba44@Primary>
Message-ID: <01da01c848a7$5be12840$0200a8c0@Three>

Not normal, shouldn't happen at any time.  It can be caused by a gasket 
leak, but also a cracked head.  With a gasket leak could be a warped head as 
well as an actual gasket problem.  When the gasket *does* go it is often 
(usually?) between cylinders 2 and 3 and not external.  Whilst it is normal 
to retorque the nuts after a couple of hundred miles or so, it still 
shouldn't be leaking beforehand - or afterwards.  When retorquing it is only 
necessary to break the stiction, which only needs a fraction of a turn, less 
than 1/4 turn, and certainly not 'loose' before retightening or I'd have 
thought you could be risking warping.  Do one nut at a time i.e. back-off 
and retorque one nut before moving on to the next, going round in the 
original order.   2,400 miles seems enough to preclude any component problem 
when assembled, or incorrect assembly.  It's a fact of life these days that 
components i.e. the gasket often don't last like they should, it should last 
many 10's of thousands of miles.  However it also depends on what gasket you 
used.  A copper-faced can just be whacked on and tightened up, but a 
composite needs much more care as it has to bond to the head and block to 
give a proper seal.  The head and block surfaces must be scrupulously clean, 
a bit-by-bit torquing process in the correct order, then run the engine 
*dry* till it gets very warm to the touch but not too hot to touch, then 
left overnight to cool down.  Then retorque using the backing-off process, 
then fill with coolant but *without* the rad cap and run until getting up to 
temperature, or until the coolant starts overflowing, then again left to 
cool overnight.  Next day retorque again backing-off as before, then refil 
with coolant, replace cap, and away you go.  The valve need readjusting 
after each retorque.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I just completed the rebuild of my MGB. I rebuilt the engine and re-torqued
> the head bolts after approximately 300 miles.  After 2,400 miles, I just
> noticed a weep of anti freeze coming from the head gasket above my spark
> plugs. 

From lundgren at byu.net  Thu Dec 27 21:56:58 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 21:56:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] My car in an EBAY auction!
Message-ID: <4774821A.401@byu.net>

This item:  250199658652

has a picture of my car!

Not sure how I feel about that...

From eric at erickson.on.net  Thu Dec 27 22:07:02 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 15:37:02 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] My car in an EBAY auction!
In-Reply-To: <4774821A.401@byu.net>
References: <4774821A.401@byu.net>
Message-ID: <9D346E57-03E2-4C99-B686-C8A7F84C4504@erickson.on.net>

On 28/12/2007, at 3:26 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote:

>
> has a picture of my car!


I know it only has 20 hours or so to go - but get stuck into him.

I assume that he didn't take the photo, so he is breaching copyright  
in that regard!

Say he can keep using the car for his auctions... if he pays you a  
modeling fee!

It looks like he has a lovely array of vehicles to use as  
illustrations for his other auctions, too (not).

Report him to eBay for copyright infringement and maybe get him to  
use his own/original artwork or pay for someone elses (stealing is  
stealing).



Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Dec 27 23:22:22 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 22:22:22 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] My car in an EBAY auction!
In-Reply-To: <4774821A.401@byu.net>
References: <4774821A.401@byu.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10712272222x31408d68tfc5472b1031ec17d@mail.gmail.com>

The guy is selling convertible tops using a picture of a car that doesn't
have the top up.
Seriously WTF?

On Dec 27, 2007 8:56 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren <lundgren at byu.net> wrote:

> This item:  250199658652
>
> has a picture of my car!
>
> Not sure how I feel about that...
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jello at ida.net  Fri Dec 28 08:49:47 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 08:49:47 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA crossflow head
Message-ID: <41188.72.245.92.197.1198856987.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

I need to rebuild my MGA engine.  It's actually a 3 main B motor.  I was
thinking about upgading to a cross-flow head, higher compression pistons,
and possibly a hotter cam ... BUT wanted to find out if anyone out there
has "been there done that" on an MGA.  I looked at Barney's page - there
was one picture of it (with injection - and one with webers, but I
couldn't tell for sure it was an MGA).  My major concern is this - I live
in a cold climate, and need the heater for mornings.  With the carb
relocation to the other side, I'm not sure how I'd get fresh air to the
heater.  I'm also not sure about the heater valve situation, or the access
to the distributor (I would probably retain my points ignition - simple
reliable, easy to fix in a pinch).  The MGB wouldn't be too hard to deal
with, but the MGA's engine compartment is significantly tighter.

Anyone have experience with an MGA and the Crossflow head?

Phil Bates
'58 MGA
'67 MGB
misc other stuff

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Dec 28 09:05:55 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 11:05:55 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGA crossflow head
Message-ID: <d19.1af6291e.34a678e3@aol.com>

In a message dated 28/12/2007 7:50:26 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
jello at ida.net writes:

Anyone  have experience with an MGA and the Crossflow  head?



Yup, lots.
 
No problem fitting them into an MGA engine bay, although as you say, a bit  
cramped when you need to get to the distributor.
 
When you really need the hot air in winter, the fresh air supply isn't all  
that critical. Just terminate the RH duct as the LH one used to be, in front of 
 the carbs. The heater then picks up prewarmed engine bay air which works 
just  fine.  If the head you get doesn't have the two bolt attachment for a  
heater valve, you can get an inline valve operated by the same cable - no big  
deal.
 
I have collected some period literature and original fitting instructions  at 
_http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/f/HRG_Information.pdf_ 
(http://www.rhodo.citymax.com/f/HRG_Information.pdf) 
 
The Mk 4 head was better than the modern crossflows, but it in turn flowed  
better than the earlier HRG models.  Some porting will improve  things.  The 
HS6 carbs would make the most sense with a tuned engine.  Webers are overkill 
for the street and offer most benefit at higher RPM where  few people run their 
engines unless they race them.
 
Bill

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Dec 28 11:56:04 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 12:56:04 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] My car in an EBAY auction!
In-Reply-To: <4774821A.401@byu.net>
References: <4774821A.401@byu.net>
Message-ID: <477546C4.6010406@gmail.com>

Andrew B. Lundgren wrote:
> This item:  250199658652
>
> has a picture of my car!
>
> Not sure how I feel about that...
Report it to the ebay administration. That's not allowed.

-The Roxter
--

From lundgren at byu.net  Fri Dec 28 12:21:18 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 12:21:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] My car in an EBAY auction!
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10712272222x31408d68tfc5472b1031ec17d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4774821A.401@byu.net>
	<a3b984e10712272222x31408d68tfc5472b1031ec17d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47754CAE.6090002@byu.net>

If the top was up, he might not have used it!  The top was shot at that 
point.

Richard Ewald wrote:
> The guy is selling convertible tops using a picture of a car that 
> doesn't have the top up.
> Seriously WTF?

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Dec 28 13:19:25 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 12:19:25 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Anti freeze Weep From Head Gasket
In-Reply-To: <001301c848a2$fdcecef0$aa43ba44@Primary>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D1993DD@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Merle:

This is a bit of a counter point to Paul's good advice.

This weeping is not normal, but it is very typical.

Do you know which head gasket you used? The standard gasket for many
years was silver coated and it tended to have leak problems. The typical
fix was to use an additional glue compound such as "Copper Coat" when
installing the gasket. With this gasket re-torquing may help.

I challenge Paul's comment about the gasket quality. The newer gasket
design supplied by Payen (AE) is almost black in color and incorporates
a resin finish and o ringed water ports. This is not supposed to be
re-torqued, but at this point you don't have a lot to lose. The AE
gasket should not have any additional dressing. This style of gasket is
far superior to any past designs and has been giving very good life.

I've found that the head bolts just in the middle of the right side tend
to need to be retorqued more than any of the others, possibly due to the
block structure, or the effect of the coolant. That would be an
interesting area to examine.

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Valda and Merl Rosenthal
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 8:10 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Anti freeze Weep From Head Gasket
>
> I just completed the rebuild of my MGB. I rebuilt the engine
> and re-torqued the head bolts after approximately 300 miles.
> After 2,400 miles, I just noticed a weep of anti freeze
> coming from the head gasket above my spark plugs.  I have the
> following questions:
>
> Is this normal or should I re-torque the head bolts?  Some
> where I thought I read this was normal on an MG.
>
> If I re-torque do I do it hot or cold?
>
> If I re-torque do I loosen all the head bolts and start over
> or do I re-torque from there current torque values?
>
>
> Any guidance would be appreciated.  I have also included some
> pictures of my restoration
>
>
> Merl Rosenthal
>
> 1980 MGB

From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 28 18:41:50 2007
From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 17:41:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
Message-ID: <177702.70745.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Dear Listers:
   
  Does anyone have any experience with alloy cyl heads for the MGB (non-crossflow)?  Besides lower weight and better cooling, is there any performance benefit?
   
  Thanks for the info....
   
  Matt Milkevitch
  '74 MGBGT

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 28 18:49:29 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 17:49:29 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
In-Reply-To: <177702.70745.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C39AE7A9.13ED3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Theoretically, an aluminum head lets you run either more compression or more
advance without detonation. Obviously, to take advantage of the compression
concept would require more work.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 12/28/07 5:41 PM, Matthew Milkevitch at mmilkevitch at yahoo.com wrote:

> Dear Listers:
>    
>   Does anyone have any experience with alloy cyl heads for the MGB
> (non-crossflow)?  Besides lower weight and better cooling, is there any
> performance benefit?
>    
>   Thanks for the info....
>    
>   Matt Milkevitch
>   '74 MGBGT

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Dec 28 18:50:58 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 17:50:58 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
In-Reply-To: <177702.70745.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D19947C@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Matt:

The alloy heads were not intended to give performance improvement, but
they do seem to give a tiny bit more pep as supplied.

If you look into the ports you can see some places where the port
machining meets the as cast valve chamber. There are some sharp edges
that can be easily cleaned up with a dremel tool to make the heads flow
a bit better. That's one of the nice things about aluminium, it's easier
to do clean up on than cast iron.

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch
> Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 5:42 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
>
> Dear Listers:
>
>   Does anyone have any experience with alloy cyl heads for
> the MGB (non-crossflow)?  Besides lower weight and better
> cooling, is there any performance benefit?
>
>   Thanks for the info....
>
>   Matt Milkevitch
>   '74 MGBGT

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Dec 28 19:37:17 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 21:37:17 EST
Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
Message-ID: <ce6.24504da9.34a70cdd@aol.com>

In a message dated 28/12/2007 5:42:11 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
mmilkevitch at yahoo.com writes:

Does  anyone have any experience with alloy cyl heads for the MGB  
(non-crossflow)?  Besides lower weight and better cooling, is there any  performance 
benefit?




 
____________________________________

Yeah the car accelerates faster because of the significantly lighter wallet  
of the driver......
 
Bill

From lundgren at byu.net  Fri Dec 28 19:53:02 2007
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew B. Lundgren)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 19:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
In-Reply-To: <ce6.24504da9.34a70cdd@aol.com>
References: <ce6.24504da9.34a70cdd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4775B68E.7040005@byu.net>

My cast iron head was cracked.  When I went looking at the replacement 
cost, the AL one was cheaper than the iron one. 

I should have done a V8 conversion.

--
Andrew

WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
> ____________________________________
>
> Yeah the car accelerates faster because of the significantly lighter wallet  
> of the driver......
>  
> Bill
> //www.team.net/archive

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 28 20:17:01 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 21:17:01 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>

If someone is using a picture of your car there is really not much  
you can do about it.   As a photographer/video producer/communication  
professor, I can tell you the following:

Pros get releases just so they don't have to bother with any problems  
not because everything has a right attached to it.  The right must be  
proven in court. It is unambiguous that the photographer owns the  
picture buthat might not be owned is the right to use the picture in  
some way such as copyright, trademark or endorsement.

If the gentleman took a picture of your car in a public place you  
have little recourse against him.  If you took the picture, you could  
ask him to stop but their isn't much of a way to stop him short of a  
suit.  Ebay will tell you they would be glad to remove it if you  
provide them a court order.

The closest legal cases to this kind of thing is that companies have  
tried to stop people from using pictures of their buildings.  They  
loose.  However -  if you can show that your car in the picture  
somehow endorses the product, then you own your publicity rights.  I  
used to be photographer for a worldwide construction machinery  
corporation and we never got releases from anyone except the people  
in the pictures.  We did however ask the owners for permission to  
take the pictures.  The pictures of the machines was not a problem.   
If the name of the company was on the machine (which we tried not to  
do anyway) then they could be considered endorsing the product.

I think it is interesting he used a picture that didn't show his  
product.

About all you really can do is send him an email telling him your  
uncomfortable with him using the picture.  He will likely ignore you.  
If you contact ebay, they will likely say send us a court order and  
we will enforce it.

Mike

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Dec 28 21:08:43 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 20:08:43 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
In-Reply-To: <7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
References: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200712282008k5e95b2cbm1f4573724de25336@mail.gmail.com>

On Dec 28, 2007 7:17 PM, Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> If someone is using a picture of your car there is really not much
> you can do about it.   As a photographer/video producer/communication
> professor, I can tell you the following:

> If the gentleman took a picture of your car in a public place you
> have little recourse against him.  If you took the picture, you could
> ask him to stop but their isn't much of a way to stop him short of a
> suit.

If the photo was taken by Andrew and he owns the copyright, and the
photo is used without permission, then he could send a DMCA notice to
eBay, who would be obligated to act.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Dec 28 21:54:25 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 22:54:25 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
In-Reply-To: <7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
References: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4775D301.5040301@gmail.com>

Mike Duvall wrote:
> If someone is using a picture of your car there is really not much  
> you can do about it.   As a photographer/video producer/communication  
> professor, I can tell you the following:
>
> Pros get releases just so they don't have to bother with any problems  
> not because everything has a right attached to it.  The right must be  
> proven in court. It is unambiguous that the photographer owns the  
> picture buthat might not be owned is the right to use the picture in  
> some way such as copyright, trademark or endorsement.
>
> If the gentleman took a picture of your car in a public place you  
> have little recourse against him.  If you took the picture, you could  
> ask him to stop but their isn't much of a way to stop him short of a  
> suit.  Ebay will tell you they would be glad to remove it if you  
> provide them a court order.
>
> The closest legal cases to this kind of thing is that companies have  
> tried to stop people from using pictures of their buildings.  They  
> loose.  However -  if you can show that your car in the picture  
> somehow endorses the product, then you own your publicity rights.  I  
> used to be photographer for a worldwide construction machinery  
> corporation and we never got releases from anyone except the people  
> in the pictures.  We did however ask the owners for permission to  
> take the pictures.  The pictures of the machines was not a problem.   
> If the name of the company was on the machine (which we tried not to  
> do anyway) then they could be considered endorsing the product.
>
> I think it is interesting he used a picture that didn't show his  
> product.
>
> About all you really can do is send him an email telling him your  
> uncomfortable with him using the picture.  He will likely ignore you.  
> If you contact ebay, they will likely say send us a court order and  
> we will enforce it.
I tend to doubt this. ebay is supersensitive to these matters. Usually a simple complaint will suffice.


-The Roxter
--

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 29 06:44:23 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 05:44:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
In-Reply-To: <4775D301.5040301@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <662706.56264.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I take begillions of pictures of my car - usually so I
can put them back together correctly.  Unless the
photographer is sensitive about his 'art', I think the
real issue here is whether the seller is using the
photo to misrepresent the product he's selling.

rick

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 29 06:55:50 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 05:55:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] Happy birthday...
Message-ID: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

...to ME!  57 today!   Think I'll go play in the
garage. :-)

rick

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Sat Dec 29 07:53:17 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 09:53:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
References: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <002301c84a2a$8bef8070$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Hey guys the guy who has the calendar for sale on ebay is an MGA enthusiast 
in Belgium. He also owns the website where the pics came from.  Most if not 
all of the  pics were all uploaded to the site by the owners of the cars. 
My car is also on the calendar and I don't have a problem with him using it. 
He is not going to make a huge killing on the sale - if he breaks even I'd 
be surprised.

Rick

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Duvall" <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
To: "mgs" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 22:17
Subject: Re: [Mgs] photo on ebay


> If someone is using a picture of your car there is really not much
> you can do about it.---SNIP SNIP ----- 

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Dec 29 08:45:51 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 02:15:51 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] Happy birthday...
In-Reply-To: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5BE8B51B-CDCC-491A-A2BE-214EC1C426E8@erickson.on.net>

On 30/12/2007, at 12:25 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> ...to ME!  57 today!   Think I'll go play in the
> garage. :-)
>


HAPPY BIRTHDAY RICK!



Eric

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sat Dec 29 08:54:31 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 02:24:31 +1030
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
In-Reply-To: <7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
References: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <04A53F83-4DBE-4D58-B84F-1408B3EA1AAB@erickson.on.net>

On 29/12/2007, at 1:47 PM, Mike Duvall wrote:

> If someone is using a picture of your car there is really not much
> you can do about it.   As a photographer/video producer/communication
> professor, I can tell you the following:
>

Mike,

I think there is very little chance he has taken the photographs that  
he uses in his adverts.  I think you have grabbed the wrong end of  
the stick.

He looks like he does this a lot - he needs educating in copyright  
law (and just doing the decent thing).

It ain't his property - he is stealing.



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From barrie at look.ca  Sat Dec 29 11:09:44 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 13:09:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
In-Reply-To: <4775D301.5040301@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
	<4775D301.5040301@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1J8g8V-0002Fs-Mx@alpha.look.ca>

I found eBay to be quite self-police-ing.    I put up my son's 
original WWII German Iron Cross and after a day they pulled it saying 
Nazi stuff they did not sell !   So they must scour through the stuff 
that is put up for sale - Quite laudable really.


At 11:54 PM 12/28/2007, The Roxter wrote:
>Mike Duvall wrote:
> > If someone is using a picture of your car there is really not much
> > you can do about it.   As a photographer/video producer/communication
> > professor, I can tell you the following:
> >
> > Pros get releases just so they don't have to bother with any problems
> > not because everything has a right attached to it.  The right must be
> > proven in court. It is unambiguous that the photographer owns the
> > picture buthat might not be owned is the right to use the picture in
> > some way such as copyright, trademark or endorsement.
> >
> > If the gentleman took a picture of your car in a public place you
> > have little recourse against him.  If you took the picture, you could
> > ask him to stop but their isn't much of a way to stop him short of a
> > suit.  Ebay will tell you they would be glad to remove it if you
> > provide them a court order.
> >
> > The closest legal cases to this kind of thing is that companies have
> > tried to stop people from using pictures of their buildings.  They
> > loose.  However -  if you can show that your car in the picture
> > somehow endorses the product, then you own your publicity rights.  I
> > used to be photographer for a worldwide construction machinery
> > corporation and we never got releases from anyone except the people
> > in the pictures.  We did however ask the owners for permission to
> > take the pictures.  The pictures of the machines was not a problem.
> > If the name of the company was on the machine (which we tried not to
> > do anyway) then they could be considered endorsing the product.
> >
> > I think it is interesting he used a picture that didn't show his
> > product.
> >
> > About all you really can do is send him an email telling him your
> > uncomfortable with him using the picture.  He will likely ignore you.
> > If you contact ebay, they will likely say send us a court order and
> > we will enforce it.
>I tend to doubt this. ebay is supersensitive to these matters. 
>Usually a simple complaint will suffice.
>
>
>-The Roxter
>--
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca
>
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
http://www.britcot.com 

From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 29 11:36:44 2007
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 10:36:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D19947C@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <60554.42983.qm@web51303.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

greeting,
     I installed the alloy head on my 1976 B roadster
just prior to a planned 30000 mile trip around the USA
in 1998. I installed the head, a weberDGV carb and as
ansi exhaust, along with a 1974 overdrive tranny. My
trip started in Ft.Collins, Co in early May. I drove
the B all over the country, crusing in the 75 to 80
MPH range. I endured temps of over 110 degrees, and
maintained an engine temp of 185 degrees. I feel that
if I had my iron head on this car, it would have
suffered a bit more.
     The DGV carb behaved as well as I could have
hoped for. Fuel milage for the trip averaged 26 MPG on
mid grade fuel(89 octane). I still have the iron head,
on the shelf, in the shop. I am saying that the alloy
head actually ran better than the iron head..just my
$.02 worth.
Howard Gentry.
--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> Matt:
> 
> The alloy heads were not intended to give
> performance improvement, but
> they do seem to give a tiny bit more pep as
> supplied.
> 
> If you look into the ports you can see some places
> where the port
> machining meets the as cast valve chamber. There are
> some sharp edges
> that can be easily cleaned up with a dremel tool to
> make the heads flow
> a bit better. That's one of the nice things about
> aluminium, it's easier
> to do clean up on than cast iron.
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> >
>
[mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net]
> On
> > Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch
> > Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 5:42 PM
> > To: mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Mgs] MGB alloy cyl heads
> >
> > Dear Listers:
> >
> >   Does anyone have any experience with alloy cyl
> heads for
> > the MGB (non-crossflow)?  Besides lower weight and
> better
> > cooling, is there any performance benefit?
> >
> >   Thanks for the info....
> >
> >   Matt Milkevitch
> >   '74 MGBGT
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as zymmer4 at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 


The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Sat Dec 29 12:17:49 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 13:17:49 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Happy birthday...
In-Reply-To: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47769D5D.3080106@ktc.com>

   Happy birthday, youngster. (BG)

   CR (69 & aging fast)


Rick Lindsay wrote:
> ...to ME!  57 today!   Think I'll go play in the
> garage. :-)
> 
> rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 29 12:48:15 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 13:48:15 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 40
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1198954801.32670.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1198954801.32670.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <03AE9A49-43D1-4E5B-A0EC-E13A2F66C3F2@sbcglobal.net>

I'm not sure this is worth posting again but.....   I don't have the  
end of any stick (friendly response, not irate) but was just trying  
to clarify issues,  again:

Yes if the guy is using someone else's  photo he is stealing.  No  
brainer - proving it to an internet company is a different issue  
(DMCA or not which by the way I have a response to but did it off  
list if anyone else is interested I would be glad to send it but  
actually I doubt it)

If the original post was about the car in the picture and not about  
who took the image, there is no stealing,  the issue would be not be  
copyright or trademark but fair trade (endorsement)

Please note the original post said  "This item:  250199658652  has a  
picture of my car!"   Note the sentence is not:  has my picture of my  
car.   The claim of ownership is on the car in the picture not of the  
picture.

I bet everyone is sick of this topic!

Mike :)





On Dec 29, 2007, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Mike,
>
> I think there is very little chance he has taken the photographs that
> he uses in his adverts.  I think you have grabbed the wrong end of
> the stick.
>
> He looks like he does this a lot - he needs educating in copyright
> law (and just doing the decent thing).
>
> It ain't his property - he is stealing.
>
>
>
> Eric
> '68MGB MkII
> Adelaide, South Australia

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sat Dec 29 13:24:04 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 14:24:04 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
In-Reply-To: <E1J8g8V-0002Fs-Mx@alpha.look.ca>
References: <mailman.11.1198868402.11508.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<7E5376C4-0C79-4DAF-86ED-5E07C1210FCD@sbcglobal.net>
	<4775D301.5040301@gmail.com> <E1J8g8V-0002Fs-Mx@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4776ACE4.5040902@gmail.com>

Barrie Robinson wrote:
> I found eBay to be quite self-police-ing.    I put up my son's 
> original WWII German Iron Cross and after a day they pulled it saying 
> Nazi stuff they did not sell !   So they must scour through the stuff 
> that is put up for sale - Quite laudable really. 
Yes, this has been my experience with them too. I don't know if it's still up there, but they used to have a statement about using pictures on their fair practices section. As I recall, they didn't want you to use somebody else's picture from an eBay item, so I'm guessing the use that was reported here would not be considered fair use to eBay.

-The Roxter
--

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 29 16:15:21 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 17:15:21 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Dish
Message-ID: <049b01c84a70$af994830$6401a8c0@Larry>

Gents,

I've got a 1622 motor in my A60 Pickup.  The Driver's Handbook says it has
7.2:1 CR.  Can anyone tell me what size piston dish this would have?  16.2cc?
How about combustion chamber volume?

I'm considering what my options are for getting a little more pep out of the
motor -- including bringing the CR up to probably 9:1.  I don't want to do
anything irreversible to it and am wondering if it's feasible to shave my
spare MGB head to get there or if I really need new pistons with a smaller
dish along with a smaller skim.

Thoughts?

Larry

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Dec 29 16:30:22 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 18:30:22 EST
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Piston Dish
Message-ID: <c4e.2542d45a.34a8328e@aol.com>

In a message dated 29/12/2007 3:15:56 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net writes:

I'm  considering what my options are for getting a little more pep out of the 
motor  -- including bringing the CR up to probably 9:1.  I don't want to do  
anything irreversible to it and am wondering if it's feasible to shave my  
spare MGB head to get there or if I really need new pistons with a smaller  dish 
along with a smaller skim.



 
____________________________________


Shaving that much off the head is a lousy way to do it and screws your  valve 
geometry.
 
Find an MGA head and a set of pistons and get it bored.  Or find a 3  main 
MGB engine and build it - you can put the rear engine plate from the 1622  you 
have on it and bolt it in.
 
Bill

From jkk at adams.net  Sat Dec 29 16:55:44 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 17:55:44 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Rick's Birthday
Message-ID: <000e01c84a76$53d76300$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Happy Birthday, Rick. Hope you had a good 'un.

I spent all day in the garage, too, but it didn't have much to do with LBC's.
Changed the oil in all three of our daily drivers, rotated tires on two of
them and put the new tires and wheels that Santa left on my daughter's new
Focus. I did start the B and thought about going for a ride until I remembered
the snow drift in front of that garage door.

(Got the 12" telescope all set up and the fan running so I should be good to
go as soon as I get done with supper. I'm thinking about selling one of my
cars to partially finance a 20" mirror for a telescope I'm building.)

Jim

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Sat Dec 29 17:28:03 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-fisher)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 19:28:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Happy birthday...
In-Reply-To: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c84a7a$d76ed690$864c83b0$@com>

Happy Birthday! Even if you do own a Disco II.

I also spent the day in the garage, serviced the MG and replaced the
transmission selector shaft seals on a "real" Series II (1960) :-) Tomorrow
I plan on getting the engine back in the old girl.

Its amazing what you can get done when the wife and kids go off to visit her
sister.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Rick Lindsay
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 8:56 AM
To: sl; MGS; disco disco; ferrari
Subject: [Mgs] Happy birthday...

...to ME!  57 today!   Think I'll go play in the
garage. :-)

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Sat Dec 29 17:55:23 2007
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 19:55:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] photo on ebay
Message-ID: <29854686.400631198976123920.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web06-z01>

Every time I think I understand what you all write about on this list, I get confused.  I am going to my local 99 cent store and buy some pictures of some MG's......Happy new year...../mel
---


- The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Barrie Robinson wrote:
> > I found eBay to be quite self-police-ing.    I put up my son's 
> > original WWII German Iron Cross and after a day they pulled it saying 
> > Nazi stuff they did not sell !   So they must scour through the stuff 
> > that is put up for sale - Quite laudable really. 
> Yes, this has been my experience with them too. I don't know if it's still up there, but they used to have a statement about using pictures on their fair practices section. As I recall, they didn't want you to use somebody else's picture from an eBay item, so I'm guessing the use that was reported here would not be considered fair use to eBay.
> 
> -The Roxter
> --
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 
> You are subscribed as melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
> 
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Dec 29 20:27:53 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 21:27:53 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Rick's Birthday
References: <000e01c84a76$53d76300$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <062f01c84a93$f6a58630$6401a8c0@actualshop>

Happy Birthday, Rick.

Hope you had a good one!!!

Ooops, you HAD to have had!!  Playing in the garage will DO it EVERY time!!

LOL

Ed

From shaws at mlcltd.com  Sun Dec 30 07:27:59 2007
From: shaws at mlcltd.com (Bob Shaw)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 08:27:59 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Rick's Birthday
In-Reply-To: <062f01c84a93$f6a58630$6401a8c0@actualshop>
References: <000e01c84a76$53d76300$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<062f01c84a93$f6a58630$6401a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <7DF3D958-9CEE-487D-9BBD-972D039F39B8@mlcltd.com>

Happy Birthday Rick. Hope you got dirty and greasy!

Bob Shaw
shaws at mlcltd.com
My MGA is not leaking,
It is merely marking its territory


>
> You are subscribed as shaws at mlcltd.com
>
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Dec 30 07:59:12 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 14:59:12 -0000
Subject: [Mgs] Happy birthday...
References: <170258.75238.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00ad01c84af5$34720630$0200a8c0@Three>

Happy Birthday, hope you got more than a tin of beans ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...to ME!  57 today!   Think I'll go play in the
> garage. :-)
> 
> rick

From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 30 09:05:47 2007
From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (Mark Sherman)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 11:05:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Benazir Bhutto's yellow MG
Message-ID: <BAY116-W7BE1EB9B604152FF80F00D1570@phx.gbl>

>From The Daily Mail:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/live/articles/news/worldnews.html?in_article
_id=504824&in_page_id=1811

"The clocks of her alma mater Oxford University, where she once threw the best
parties and drove a yellow MG,
had just struck a quarter past one when Miss Bhutto succumbed to her injuries
in a Rawalpindi hospital."

Mark Sherman

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Sun Dec 30 12:43:42 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 11:43:42 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] Piston Dish
In-Reply-To: <049b01c84a70$af994830$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0D1994A1@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Larry:

Typically the non sports car engines will have other differences such as
smaller valves and different camshaft specs.

Building the motor to MGA specs is not likely to affect anything that
the originality police will get upset about. Regular MGA pistons and
having the head machined to accept the larger MGA valves will make a
measurable difference even with the stock carburetion. You will want to
keep the camshaft on the torquey side. Aim for torque, not HP as you
have a heavier vehicle to get into movement.

I don't advise shaving the head to increase the CR as this will change
the valve train geometry requiring either new pushrods or silly spacers.

Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Daniels
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 3:15 PM
> To: MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com; MG List; AustinGroup
> Subject: [Mgs] Piston Dish
>
> Gents,
>
> I've got a 1622 motor in my A60 Pickup.  The Driver's
> Handbook says it has
> 7.2:1 CR.  Can anyone tell me what size piston dish this
> would have?  16.2cc?
> How about combustion chamber volume?
>
> I'm considering what my options are for getting a little more
> pep out of the motor -- including bringing the CR up to
> probably 9:1.  I don't want to do anything irreversible to it
> and am wondering if it's feasible to shave my spare MGB head
> to get there or if I really need new pistons with a smaller
> dish along with a smaller skim.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Larry

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec 30 14:47:28 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:47:28 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] mg's in philia
References: <BAY116-W7BE1EB9B604152FF80F00D1570@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002401c84b2d$a745a530$800101df@garage.local>

i'm here visiting my folks in suburban philia, and just saw, in the rain, a 
rubber bumper mgb!!!  what fun. 

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Sun Dec 30 15:57:10 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:57:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: midget
Message-ID: <007b01c84b37$4f6235e0$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

Can Anyone on the list help this guy.  Please reply directly to him at
bstenor at verizon.net and not to the list or to me.  Thanks

Rick
Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
Coast English Car Club
----- Original Message -----
From: RICHARD MCFARLAND
To: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 16:56
Subject: midget


I have a 1979 midget and need to replace the left front fender. Wonder if you
know where I could get one?

Richard McFarland
bstenor at verizon.net