From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 06:28:19 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 07:28:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
Message-ID: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Bad news.  The "Death Trap" Red Bull Soap Box Derby car was in 3rd place this
morning.

http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx

Someone mentioned an easy way to be able to vote many times a day is to turn
off your cookies on your computer.  Wth IE, click tools, then Internet
Options.  Click the "Privacy" tab and set the scale all the way to the top.
That will block all cookies.

Now you can vote as many times as you want (many, many times).  Just refresh
the page by hitting F5 and vote again.

Time to get to work -- there are two groups out there beating the LBCer's.

Larry Daniels

From frankk at intap.net  Wed Aug  1 06:37:26 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 08:37:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

Larry: I have had luck with simply clicking on "Tools" where I get  a 
"Delete Cookies" box...been wearing out my IE on this for several days now!
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 8:28 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap


> Bad news.  The "Death Trap" Red Bull Soap Box Derby car was in 3rd place 
> this
> morning.
>
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>
> Someone mentioned an easy way to be able to vote many times a day is to 
> turn
> off your cookies on your computer.  Wth IE, click tools, then Internet
> Options.  Click the "Privacy" tab and set the scale all the way to the 
> top.
> That will block all cookies.
>
> Now you can vote as many times as you want (many, many times).  Just 
> refresh
> the page by hitting F5 and vote again.
>
> Time to get to work -- there are two groups out there beating the LBCer's.
>
> Larry Daniels
> _______________________________________________

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  1 07:33:31 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 06:33:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
Message-ID: <585303.86406.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission (together!) from my '76 B. I just bought a hoist and need to get chains or straps to attach to it. What's the consensus on which is better, chains or straps? I've also heard that some people attach an angle iron across the rocker arm studs and use chains through that. Looking for advice on specific items I need to get - strength, etc....

Thx, 




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From frankk at intap.net  Wed Aug  1 07:39:41 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 09:39:41 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
References: <585303.86406.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <007701c7d441$69ff99f0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

Dan: I have pulled numerous B motors and have always used the two studs 
which are used for attaching the valve cover.  I slip the chain link over 
the stud(after removing the valve cover!) and use a washer if the nut might 
be too small and possibly fit thru the chain opening.  I have never had a 
problem.  You can adjust the cherry picker pickup point to balance the motor 
and tranny so they come out more smoothly and the tail of tranny doesn't 
hang too low. Hope this makes sense.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>; <mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....


> I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission (together!) from my 
> '76 B. I just bought a hoist and need to get chains or straps to attach to 
> it. What's the consensus on which is better, chains or straps? I've also 
> heard that some people attach an angle iron across the rocker arm studs 
> and use chains through that. Looking for advice on specific items I need 
> to get - strength, etc....
>
> Thx,
>
>
>
>
>      Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
> NAMGBR #5-2328

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 07:42:08 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 08:42:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Frank, that will certainly work, but you will have to delete the cookies 
after each time you vote.  If you just block them in the first place, you 
will save a couple steps for each vote.

Larry

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Larry Daniels" 
<ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


Larry: I have had luck with simply clicking on "Tools" where I get  a
"Delete Cookies" box...been wearing out my IE on this for several days now!
Frank Krajewski

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 8:28 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap


> Bad news.  The "Death Trap" Red Bull Soap Box Derby car was in 3rd place
> this
> morning.
>
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>
> Someone mentioned an easy way to be able to vote many times a day is to
> turn
> off your cookies on your computer.  Wth IE, click tools, then Internet
> Options.  Click the "Privacy" tab and set the scale all the way to the
> top.
> That will block all cookies.
>
> Now you can vote as many times as you want (many, many times).  Just
> refresh
> the page by hitting F5 and vote again.
>
> Time to get to work -- there are two groups out there beating the LBCer's.
>
> Larry Daniels
> _______________________________________________

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  1 07:54:41 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 23:24:41 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>

On 01/08/2007, at 11:12 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Frank, that will certainly work, but you will have to delete the  
> cookies
> after each time you vote.  If you just block them in the first  
> place, you
> will save a couple steps for each vote.
>

The cookie thing seemed not to work for me - it allowed me to vote  
multiple times but it didn't seem to alter the result after the first  
vote.

We even tried a string of votes from people at work with the same  
result.

Are you sure they are not checking IP Addresses too?  If so then they  
would be getting the same IP address (via a cache engine/proxy  
server) for the people in my office and that would answer that question.

???


Eric

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 08:00:35 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 09:00:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry><003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU><026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <027f01c7d444$55a415f0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Beats me.  That just went way beyond my expertise in computers.  Although, I 
do hear that it is getting to the point where it requires a lot of votes to 
make a difference in the percentages.  That will get worse as the number of 
votes mount up.  Pretty good reason to stay on top of it now rather than 
trying to play catch-up later.


Larry

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


On 01/08/2007, at 11:12 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Frank, that will certainly work, but you will have to delete the
> cookies
> after each time you vote.  If you just block them in the first
> place, you
> will save a couple steps for each vote.
>

The cookie thing seemed not to work for me - it allowed me to vote
multiple times but it didn't seem to alter the result after the first
vote.

We even tried a string of votes from people at work with the same
result.

Are you sure they are not checking IP Addresses too?  If so then they
would be getting the same IP address (via a cache engine/proxy
server) for the people in my office and that would answer that question.

???


Eric

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  1 08:15:23 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 23:45:23 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <027f01c7d444$55a415f0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry><003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU><026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>
	<027f01c7d444$55a415f0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <72A657F4-737B-4D25-93C2-80D89430BDF2@erickson.on.net>

On 01/08/2007, at 11:30 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:

> Beats me.  That just went way beyond my expertise in computers.   
> Although, I
> do hear that it is getting to the point where it requires a lot of  
> votes to
> make a difference in the percentages.  That will get worse as the  
> number of
> votes mount up.  Pretty good reason to stay on top of it now rather  
> than
> trying to play catch-up later.
>

Well before my work mates and I attacked it from work and from home  
(even though we weren't seeing immediate results, we kept at it), it  
finally moved from a significant few points between 1st and Death  
Trap at third (that frightened me) - to just a few points of a  
percentage point.

I suggest we just keep at it even if we don't see an instant jump -  
for the reasons Larry outlines above.

I am a competitive bugger and when I get into a race......



:-)



Eric

From frankk at intap.net  Wed Aug  1 08:33:48 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:33:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry><003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU><026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry><ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>
	<027f01c7d444$55a415f0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<00a501c7d446$26922660$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<029b01c7d447$0242b080$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <00d001c7d448$f94aa120$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

Larry: I am certain there is some technical explanation for having to copy 
that weird set of symbols                         before one votes. Anyone 
could easily do the same so it can't be to thwart hackers. I have seen this 
device used on other sites as well. What is its function?
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


> Well, as I said, as the number of votes go up, the number needed to change
> the percentages also go up.  Could be that the other teams are also 
> racking
> up more votes at the same time.  I did hear one person say that it went 
> from
> 12 up to 20 votes to change .1% -- or 200 votes to move a full percentage
> point.
>
> But to be completely honest, I can't say that positively they are all 
> being
> counted.  I'm just not that tech savvy.  Maybe an opinion from someone 
> more
> up on these things would be warranted?
>
> Larry
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
> To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap
>
>
> Larry: Are you certain the votes are being credited? I have voted numerous
> times yesterday and today, asI know others have, and the percentage has 
> not
> changed.
> Frank
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
> Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 10:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap
>
>
>> Beats me.  That just went way beyond my expertise in computers. 
>> Although,
>> I
>> do hear that it is getting to the point where it requires a lot of votes
>> to
>> make a difference in the percentages.  That will get worse as the number
>> of
>> votes mount up.  Pretty good reason to stay on top of it now rather than
>> trying to play catch-up later.
>>
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
>> Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 8:54 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap
>>
>>
>> On 01/08/2007, at 11:12 PM, Larry Daniels wrote:
>>
>>> Frank, that will certainly work, but you will have to delete the
>>> cookies
>>> after each time you vote.  If you just block them in the first
>>> place, you
>>> will save a couple steps for each vote.
>>>
>>
>> The cookie thing seemed not to work for me - it allowed me to vote
>> multiple times but it didn't seem to alter the result after the first
>> vote.
>>
>> We even tried a string of votes from people at work with the same
>> result.
>>
>> Are you sure they are not checking IP Addresses too?  If so then they
>> would be getting the same IP address (via a cache engine/proxy
>> server) for the people in my office and that would answer that question.
>>
>> ???
>>
>>
>> Eric
>> _______________________________________________
>> frankk at intap.net

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 08:40:31 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 09:40:31 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry><003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU><026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry><ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>
	<027f01c7d444$55a415f0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<00a501c7d446$26922660$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<029b01c7d447$0242b080$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<00d001c7d448$f94aa120$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <02bf01c7d449$ea860020$6401a8c0@Larry>

I guess that is called a "captcha" and it keeps computer geeks from setting 
up a program to automatically vote.  They need to read that mess to vote and 
that requires a personal involvement.

Or so I'm told.

Larry


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


Larry: I am certain there is some technical explanation for having to copy
that weird set of symbols                         before one votes. Anyone
could easily do the same so it can't be to thwart hackers. I have seen this
device used on other sites as well. What is its function?
Frank

From frankk at intap.net  Wed Aug  1 08:48:24 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:48:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry><003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU><026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry><ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>
	<027f01c7d444$55a415f0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<00a501c7d446$26922660$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<029b01c7d447$0242b080$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<00d001c7d448$f94aa120$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<02bf01c7d449$ea860020$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <010301c7d44b$038063d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

If that is the intent why does it have to written so it is barely legible? 
As long as you have to copy it every time why not just make it legible or 
would that make it too easy to program as well? You can see how compure 
illiterate I am. My technical expertise ended with my 1980 MGB and at times 
that baffles me as well
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


>I guess that is called a "captcha" and it keeps computer geeks from setting
> up a program to automatically vote.  They need to read that mess to vote 
> and
> that requires a personal involvement.
>
> Or so I'm told.
>
> Larry
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
> To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap
>
>
> Larry: I am certain there is some technical explanation for having to copy
> that weird set of symbols                         before one votes. Anyone
> could easily do the same so it can't be to thwart hackers. I have seen 
> this
> device used on other sites as well. What is its function?
> Frank

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Wed Aug  1 08:51:20 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 09:51:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry><003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU><026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <074101c7d44b$6c9b9600$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<Are you sure they are not checking IP Addresses too?  >>

I looked at the source code Eric, and could not "see" anything.

Seems that, depending on time of day, that 12 is minimum to move .1% but I
have had a 20+ to achieve same result!!

So let us all keep "voting"<G>!!  I've got a few "dead folks" doing it
also<VBG>!!

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  1 09:02:33 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 08:02:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Thanks to anyone who voted
Message-ID: <544173.18158.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My MGA received first place at the Seattle ABFM Saturday at
Bellevue Community College.  This is the first award it's
received at an ABFM in Seattle or Vancouver BC.  Thanks to
anyone here who attended and voted.  It was very gratifying
to know that people thought we'd done a good job.

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Wed Aug  1 09:05:00 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 16:05:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF67B@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

"If that is the intent why does it have to written so it is barely
legible?
As long as you have to copy it every time why not just make it legible
or would that make it too easy to program as well?"

Make the symbols too legible and someone will find a way to write a
computer program that can read them.  Like the text recognition you get
with scanners, that can scan a document and output actual text, instead
of just a "photo" of the page.

Or have I lost you already???


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
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From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Aug  1 09:06:48 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 08:06:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <074101c7d44b$6c9b9600$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <024f01c7d437$7493edd0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<003501c7d438$b7f6f260$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<026401c7d441$c7162af0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<ED57A846-FB8F-4DAE-9585-A09E358D144B@erickson.on.net>
	<074101c7d44b$6c9b9600$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10708010806p39ac498l414e6dd6d9ea9a31@mail.gmail.com>

Don't forget we are not voting in a vacuum.  I am sure the other teams have
people deleting cookies and revoting at the very same time you are doing the
same thing.  if the other team deletes and votes 50 times, and Death Trap
supporters only do it 49 times, this is not progress.

On 8/1/07, WJHS1960 <WJHS1960 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> <<Are you sure they are not checking IP Addresses too?  >>
>
> I looked at the source code Eric, and could not "see" anything.
>
> Seems that, depending on time of day, that 12 is minimum to move .1% but I
> have had a 20+ to achieve same result!!
>
> So let us all keep "voting"<G>!!  I've got a few "dead folks" doing it
> also<VBG>!!
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Wed Aug  1 09:11:14 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:11:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6137.1185978896.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF3C0A7993.FBA8B7A6-ON8525732A.0053168A-8525732A.00536A84@exxonmobil.com>

Dan,

Use the rocker arm studs and an engine leveler.  I bought one last year
when I pulled the engine and transmission out of my 73 B-GT.  The leveler
makes it so easy to get the engine out, one of the best purchases I have
ever made.  It makes taking the engine out and putting it back a one person
job.

Mark
73 MGB-GT
80 Spitfire 1500


From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....

I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission (together!) from my
'76 B. I just bought a hoist and need to get chains or straps to attach to
it. What's the consensus on which is better, chains or straps? I've also
heard that some people attach an angle iron across the rocker arm studs and
use chains through that. Looking for advice on specific items I need to get
- strength, etc....

Thx,

      Dan D

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Wed Aug  1 09:36:35 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:36:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Saturday projects
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20070731165213.037bfb50@nosimport.com>
References: <d2f.c895047.33df825c@aol.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0A37@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<76664a460707310421w5eb2a940g6c6245ec267eefc4@mail.gmail.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20070731165213.037bfb50@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460708010836o76a7cbd8s4500748dbf894252@mail.gmail.com>

Open to all.  The stranger, the better.

- Steve

On 7/31/07, Peter C <peter at nosimport.com> wrote:
> At 06:21 AM 7/31/2007, you wrote:
>
> > >Lot's of dreams, not enough money or time
> >
> >Sounds like me.
> >
> >I think we should all move to some population city and open a British
> >car museum.  We could put the 'show' cars up, but even better is part
> >of your admission fee would allow you to come tour the outside of the
> >work shop where you can watch all of us wrench heads work on weird
> >cars/conversions behind glass partitions.
> >
> >- Steve
> ============
> Sounds more like a zoo...................
>
>
> Peter C
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  1 10:35:09 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 02:05:09 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Time for a head clean and tidy
In-Reply-To: <76664a460708010836o76a7cbd8s4500748dbf894252@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d2f.c895047.33df825c@aol.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0A37@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<76664a460707310421w5eb2a940g6c6245ec267eefc4@mail.gmail.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20070731165213.037bfb50@nosimport.com>
	<76664a460708010836o76a7cbd8s4500748dbf894252@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12E53BF2-EFC1-40AB-A298-12D52C3ACB69@erickson.on.net>

Guys,

After some particularly vigorous competition I first noticed a loss  
of water and excessive blowby (from top and sidecovers) with more oil  
than I am used to ending up in my catch tank.  There was also a  
distinctive gasping from what I feared was a burnt valve.

Compression was 150, 150, 120, 155

So off comes the head and... here are the pictures

http://picasaweb.google.com/MGB68MkII/Engine1

Valves are fine (OK, grubby but fine) but they are not seating as  
well as they could.  It appears as though the gasket has crept a  
little and there has definitely been water across the head.  Valve  
seats are in my crosshairs!

I am concerned that the head has warped ever so slightly and there  
looks to be one or two tiny fractures but I can't tell if they are  
just surface abnormalities or if they go deeper - so off the head  
goes for facing and cleaning and some further expert analysis.

I will clean everything else and see how it all goes back together  
(unless those fractures turn out to be the real deal)!

At this time I haven't got the time or money to pull everything out  
from below to check the rings so it will go back together in a "suck  
it and see" effort to hope that my issues were in the head (the  
engine's not mine).  I have competition stuff to do real soon and I  
have already missed a championship event (when I had the engine out  
to do the clutch).  If all is not well, this will be the time I think  
about a bigger project for under the bonnet.

Any thoughts?

http://picasaweb.google.com/MGB68MkII/Engine1



Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Aug  1 10:35:56 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 09:35:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <585303.86406.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0CB5@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Dan:

I'm going to be a bit contrary here, but that just adds spice to the
list.

I've used the rocker arm studs to pull a motor/trans assembly, but don't
really like to. Especially if I don't have the correct lift brackets. I
just don't feel happy about the leverage on them if anything goes wrong,
such as the trans hanging up.

I've gotten into the habit of using the rear most manifold stud or bolt
(I usually remove the manifolds) and the arm of the water pump after the
alt/gen is removed.

My personal favorite tilter is the Oberg tilt lift. The tabs on the
cables can be bolted right to the water pump arm and rear manifold stud.


I prefer chains over straps if I'm not using the Oberg, as you can
easily put a loop in the chain with a bolt, washers and nut ensuring
that the chain won't slip through the hook of the hoist. Usually, I just
use a chain when moving an engine from point to point, such as up onto a
stand.

One thing to watch out for (I know, you already bought the hoist but
thought I should mention it). A lot of the small folding hoists do not
have a long enough arm to reset the engine into a rubber bumper MGB
easily. With the motor/trans at balance the vertical support hits the
bumper before the powertrain is fully home, making it a PITA to push the
unit back enough to get the bolts in if you are on your own.

The big hoists usually are not a problem as they have longer arms.

On my (Harbor Frt, many moons ago) folding hoist, I extended the boom
approx. 1' 6" by adding a piece of off the shelf heavy wall rectangular
tube that fit the ID of the boom exactly. Sorry, I don't have specs. but
if anyone is interested I can get them.

This reduced the load capability of the hoist, but since I'm only
pulling 4 bangers and alloy V8s it's not a problem.

Have fun

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 6:34 AM
> To: MG List; mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
>
> I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission (together!) from
my
> '76 B. I just bought a hoist and need to get chains or straps to
attach to
> it. What's the consensus on which is better, chains or straps? I've
also
> heard that some people attach an angle iron across the rocker arm
studs
> and use chains through that. Looking for advice on specific items I
need
> to get - strength, etc....
>
> Thx,
>
>
>
>
>       Dan D

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 10:41:13 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 09:41:13 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <007701c7d441$69ff99f0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <C2D605B9.120AE%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Hmmm, I have always been reluctant to hang the entire weight of the engine
and transmission from the threads of studs which are designed to be torqued
to mere inch-pounds.

I have used instead one of the threaded holes in the block on the generator
side near the front, and one of the bellhousing bolts on the exhaust side on
the rear. This gives me a wider base to the chain triangle, and an
opportunity to shift the center left to right, as well as fore and aft. I
use shoulder bolts with stacked washers to get a little clearance so the
chain isn't jammed against the motor.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/1/07 6:39 AM, Frank at frankk at intap.net wrote:

> Dan: I have pulled numerous B motors and have always used the two studs
> which are used for attaching the valve cover.  I slip the chain link over
> the stud(after removing the valve cover!) and use a washer if the nut might
> be too small and possibly fit thru the chain opening.  I have never had a
> problem.  You can adjust the cherry picker pickup point to balance the motor
> and tranny so they come out more smoothly and the tail of tranny doesn't
> hang too low. Hope this makes sense.
> Frank Krajewski
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>; <mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:33 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
> 
> 
>> I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission (together!) from my
>> '76 B. I just bought a hoist and need to get chains or straps to attach to
>> it. What's the consensus on which is better, chains or straps? I've also
>> heard that some people attach an angle iron across the rocker arm studs
>> and use chains through that. Looking for advice on specific items I need
>> to get - strength, etc....
>> 
>> Thx,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>      Dan D
>> Central NJ USA
>> '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
>> '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>>  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
>> NAMGBR #5-2328

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 10:46:03 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 09:46:03 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <010301c7d44b$038063d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <C2D606DB.120B0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Machine image recognition. The software "bots" could read it if it were in
plain text -- it is scrambled so that it takes an effort of judgment
possible only through human perception. Software today is capable of
recognizing individual faces in photographs, for example. What it isn't
necessarily capable of doing is determining if that person is happy or sad
or angry in the particular photograph -- but it's getting there. These
"captchas" are just an attempt to keep in front of the AI.




on 8/1/07 7:48 AM, Frank at frankk at intap.net wrote:

> If that is the intent why does it have to written so it is barely legible?
> As long as you have to copy it every time why not just make it legible or
> would that make it too easy to program as well? You can see how compure
> illiterate I am. My technical expertise ended with my 1980 MGB and at times
> that baffles me as well
> Frank
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
> Cc: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 10:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap
> 
> 
>> I guess that is called a "captcha" and it keeps computer geeks from setting
>> up a program to automatically vote.  They need to read that mess to vote
>> and
>> that requires a personal involvement.
>> 
>> Or so I'm told.
>> 
>> Larry

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 10:46:51 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 09:46:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Thanks to anyone who voted
In-Reply-To: <544173.18158.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C2D6070B.120B1%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Congratulations! Nice to have your efforts recognized.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/1/07 8:02 AM, David Breneman at david_breneman at yahoo.com wrote:

> My MGA received first place at the Seattle ABFM Saturday at
> Bellevue Community College.  This is the first award it's
> received at an ABFM in Seattle or Vancouver BC.  Thanks to
> anyone here who attended and voted.  It was very gratifying
> to know that people thought we'd done a good job.
> 
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  1 11:02:59 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 02:32:59 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <C2D606DB.120B0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C2D606DB.120B0%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C089DAE6-B387-44EF-8D35-BF299A464390@erickson.on.net>

On 02/08/2007, at 2:16 AM, Max Heim wrote:
> These
> "captchas" are just an attempt to keep in front of the AI.
>

Artificial Insemination?

:)




Eric
'68MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Aug  1 12:34:45 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:34:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Thanks to anyone who voted
References: <mailman.6164.1185987254.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006501c7d46b$c1a4f130$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

Well congrats! I didn't get to vote - being on the other side of the 
country. Got any photos to share? The list strips off attachments - 
how about a link to a web page with pictures?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 
> My MGA received first place at the Seattle ABFM Saturday...
>
> David Breneman

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed Aug  1 12:42:26 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:42:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
References: <mailman.6164.1185987254.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006601c7d46b$c1ba4df0$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

The rocker arm studs appear scary to hang the whole engine/gearbox off
but that's how it was done 'at the factory' and the way I've done it
many times in MGB's and MGA's.

Another helpful 'trick' is to raise up the rear of the car. That
lessens how steep of an angle you need to maneuver the assembly out of
the engine bay.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 

> I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission (together!)
> from my '76 B. I just bought a hoist and need to get chains or
> straps to attach to it. What's the consensus on which is better,
> chains or straps? I've also heard that some people attach an angle
> iron across the rocker arm studs and use chains through that.
> Looking for advice on specific items I need to get - strength, 
> etc....
>
>      Dan D

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Aug  1 11:59:09 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:59:09 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
Message-ID: <bc0.18478175.33e223ed@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/1/2007 10:43:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
ejrussell at mebtel.net writes:

The  rocker arm studs appear scary to hang the whole engine/gearbox off
but  that's how it was done 'at the factory' and the way I've done it
many times  in MGB's and MGA's.
and insane to consider it on an alloy crossflow head engine (they are held in 
by  few threads and would possibly rip out).
 
I always use a handy front location, usually either the water pump or the  
rear generator mount, and an exhaust manifold stud.  Yes, you get a  diagonal 
pull on the engine, but it is no big deal to hold it straight as you  pull it 
unless you are working alone.
 
Don't forget to put a towel of other soft protective surface over the  rocker 
cover (or  for those with 'real' MGs, the cam covers, to protect  them from 
chain scratches.
 
Bill S.

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Aug  1 12:04:58 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 13:04:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <bc0.18478175.33e223ed@aol.com>
References: <bc0.18478175.33e223ed@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070801130132.03283df0@nosimport.com>

Think about using 2 ratchetting tie-down straps as slings. 1 behind 
the engine mounts and 1 between the engine and trans.
Hook both to your lifting hook.
Advantages are, no scratches AND you can loosen or tighten the front 
or rear independently to adjust tilt.

Peter C

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 12:13:29 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 11:13:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20070801130132.03283df0@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <C2D61B59.120C9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That sounds like a great idea...

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/1/07 11:04 AM, Peter C at peter at nosimport.com wrote:

> Think about using 2 ratchetting tie-down straps as slings. 1 behind
> the engine mounts and 1 between the engine and trans.
> Hook both to your lifting hook.
> Advantages are, no scratches AND you can loosen or tighten the front
> or rear independently to adjust tilt.
> 
> Peter C

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  1 13:03:29 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 12:03:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20070801130132.03283df0@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <648181.5469.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Peter C <peter at nosimport.com> wrote: Think about using 2 ratchetting tie-down straps as slings. 1 behind 
the engine mounts and 1 between the engine and trans.
Hook both to your lifting hook.
Advantages are, no scratches AND you can loosen or tighten the front 
or rear independently to adjust tilt.

-----------------
How do you attach them to the lifting hook, Peter? Just hook them right on, with no special attachment?


      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Aug  1 13:13:00 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 14:13:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <648181.5469.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <7.0.1.0.2.20070801130132.03283df0@nosimport.com>
	<648181.5469.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070801140931.0373c888@nosimport.com>

At 02:03 PM 8/1/2007, Dan DiBiase wrote:

>Peter C <peter at nosimport.com> wrote:
>Think about using 2 ratchetting tie-down straps as slings. 1 behind
>the engine mounts and 1 between the engine and trans.
>Hook both to your lifting hook.
>Advantages are, no scratches AND you can loosen or tighten the front
>or rear independently to adjust tilt.
>
>-----------------
>How do you attach them to the lifting hook, Peter? Just hook them 
>right on, with no special attachment?
Dan,

I use the hook end of each tie down onto the lifting hook.

This was an emergency engine pull at the track, and now it's all I use.
Peter


>Dan D

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 14:59:45 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 15:59:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
References: <mailman.6164.1185987254.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<006601c7d46b$c1ba4df0$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <035501c7d47e$e4d683e0$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....


The rocker arm studs appear scary to hang the whole engine/gearbox off
but that's how it was done 'at the factory' and the way I've done it
many times in MGB's and MGA's.

Another helpful 'trick' is to raise up the rear of the car. That
lessens how steep of an angle you need to maneuver the assembly out of
the engine bay.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

============================

My 1967 Austin A60 Pickup came with L-shaped brackets already on the rocker 
studs.  This has the 1622cc B-series motor as in the MGA Mark ll. 
Obviously, this was how they intended that we pull the motor and how I've 
done it several times on MGB's.

I do think that these brackets would be better than dropping a chain link 
over the stud with a nut over that as the brackets are not putting sideways 
tension on the studs like the chain would.  I also used a leveler that makes 
it a simple one-man job.

I do have to admit, though, that I wondered why they provided the brackets 
from the factory -- did they not have much faith that the motor would stay 
in there very long???



Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 15:18:34 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 16:18:34 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<4AB705D4-724A-4FC3-ABEB-A28BBCE4C336@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <008201c7d481$861e9790$0202fea9@Garage.local>

good job, everyone, but don't slack now.  we are ahead!!!!!

> On 25/07/2007, at 11:14 PM, Councill, David wrote:
>>
>> Make sure you include the URL each time you email in to the list.  
>> It's a
>> reminder for those of us who may not have saved it. Needless to  
>> say, it
>> is  one vote per day which technically means one vote per day per IP
>> address and I have access to several IPs. I see that you have pulled
>> into the lead but the second place team is still close behind.
>>
>>
>> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>>
>>
> 
> Guys, we are getting slack and the Deathtrap guys are falling  
> seriously behind.
> 
> Vote early - vote often :-)
> 
> 
> 
> Eric

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  1 15:47:15 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 16:47:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] battery tray
References: <mailman.6164.1185987254.12556.mgs@autox.team.net><006601c7d46b$c1ba4df0$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
	<035501c7d47e$e4d683e0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <000201c7d485$88ee3580$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

i have a 73 roadster, and although the battery trays were in OK shape, i've 
been searching for a cheap easy "floor" for them.

found it!

raw material: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgb/DSCN1489.JPG

as installed: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgb/DSCN1488.JPG

the cutting board is 8 x 11

the tray is 8 x 7

one cut with a table saw! 

From cattias at ucsc.edu  Wed Aug  1 20:35:27 2007
From: cattias at ucsc.edu (Chris Attias)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 19:35:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <p06230916c2d6f012de28@[192.168.2.3]>

I just got the latest Moss MGB catalog in the mail and was struck by 
the big brake retrofit kit.  Has anyone installed it?  Any opinions?

I was particularly interested in the statement that the Wilwood 
calipers had dust seals.  I didn't know that any Wilwood caliper had 
them.  I have a bespoke Wilwood conversion on my Series IIA Land 
Rover, and it seems like a poor choice for off-roading precisely 
because it doesn't have seals.
-- 
Chris Attias
Felton, CA
'64 MGB

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Aug  1 21:11:38 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 23:11:38 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <c00.1bc1ac3f.33e2a56a@aol.com>

In a message dated 01/08/2007 7:36:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
cattias at ucsc.edu writes:

I just  got the latest Moss MGB catalog in the mail and was struck by 
the big  brake retrofit kit.  Has anyone installed it?  Any  opinions?



 
____________________________________


Opinion:  
 
1 - no stock engined MGB needs anything more than properly serviced stock  
brakes.
 
2 - while race tuned MGBs can use improved brakes they are not legal  in most 
racing organisations - Catch 22.
 
These brake kits are for people that want to buy bragging rights and talk  
about what great improved brakes they have, but never need to use them.
 
Putting a turbo sticker on the bumper is a heck of a lot cheaper and  
achieves the same result.
 
Bill

From james.nazarian at gmail.com  Wed Aug  1 22:08:49 2007
From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 00:08:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
In-Reply-To: <007701c7d441$69ff99f0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <005201c7d4ba$d4b92ee0$6400a8c0@theendindeed>

FWIW, I used this method a few times.  The last time I used it, the engine
got snagged on something and when I gave the hoist a slight tug (didn't know
it was snagged yet) the rear valve cover stud snapped off and dropped the
engine back into the engine bay.  

My dad cut a piece of 2x4 that slipped over the studs to keep them from
bending, and then put his brackets on top of that.  Personally, ever since
dropping an engine, I've attached the brackets to the front and rear head
studs with the head still attached.

james 

?-----Original Message-----
?From: mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net 
?[mailto:mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net] 
?On Behalf Of Frank
?Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:40 AM
?To: MG List; Dan DiBiase
?Subject: Re: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
?
?Dan: I have pulled numerous B motors and have always used the 
?two studs which are used for attaching the valve cover.  I 
?slip the chain link over the stud(after removing the valve 
?cover!) and use a washer if the nut might be too small and 
?possibly fit thru the chain opening.  I have never had a 
?problem.  You can adjust the cherry picker pickup point to 
?balance the motor and tranny so they come out more smoothly 
?and the tail of tranny doesn't hang too low. Hope this makes sense.
?Frank Krajewski
?----- Original Message -----
?From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
?To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>; <mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>
?Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:33 AM
?Subject: [Mgs] Speaking of engine removal.....
?
?
?> I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission 
?(together!) from 
?> my
?> '76 B. I just bought a hoist and need to get chains or straps to 
?> attach to it. What's the consensus on which is better, chains or 
?> straps? I've also heard that some people attach an angle iron across 
?> the rocker arm studs and use chains through that. Looking for advice 
?> on specific items I need to get - strength, etc....

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug  2 01:53:10 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 08:53:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
References: <p06230916c2d6f012de28@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <01a501c7d4dc$3d81d140$0200a8c0@Three>

It isn't going to improve your stopping performance, and may even reduce it. 
As long as the existing brakes will lock the wheels on dry tarmac with 
progressive pressure they are working fine and 'bigger' brakes won't change 
that.  It's the tyre to road contact patch that determines maximum 
performance, so unless you change the tyre compound and/or contact area as 
well you won't gain anything.  And if the 'bigger' front brakes mean that 
you can lock the fronts with less pedal pressure, then that means less 
hydraulic pressure to the rears, and so *lower* braking performance overall.

If your existing brakes can't lock the wheels, then there is something wrong 
with them, so fix that.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I just got the latest Moss MGB catalog in the mail and was struck by
> the big brake retrofit kit.  Has anyone installed it?  Any opinions?

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  2 07:26:22 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 06:26:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Brakes, big and small
Message-ID: <157699.23172.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

   Paul's comments, as usual, are right on.  This is
an area of great interest for me.  All that saves your
butt from disaster is four tiny tire-patches!  I think
about that when I am working with the Formula 1 cars. 
Same physics, just at four times the speed!

   The trick is to not confuse traction with friction.
 Traction is a nonlinear summation of friction AND the
deformation of rubber into the rugosity of the road
surface.  Otherwise, it would be impossible to exceed
1G of inline or lateral loading - which race cars do
routinely.
   The other benefit of big brakes is their heat
dissipating ability.  After all, the momentum of the
car is converted to heat by the brakes.  You have to
get rid of that heat somehow.  Big brakes dissipate
heat better so they work better in repeated use
situations - like on the track.  That's the only
advantage, to me, except for bragging rights perhaps.

rick - in houston

--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> It isn't going to improve your stopping performance,
> and may even reduce it. 
> As long as the existing brakes will lock the wheels
> on dry tarmac with 
> progressive pressure they are working fine and
> 'bigger' brakes won't change 
> that.  It's the tyre to road contact patch that
> determines maximum 
> performance, so unless you change the tyre compound
> and/or contact area as 
> well you won't gain anything.  And if the 'bigger'
> front brakes mean that 
> you can lock the fronts with less pedal pressure,
> then that means less 
> hydraulic pressure to the rears, and so *lower*
> braking performance overall.
> 
> If your existing brakes can't lock the wheels, then
> there is something wrong 
> with them, so fix that.
> 
> PaulH.

From sjohnson at umext.maine.edu  Thu Aug  2 07:50:52 2007
From: sjohnson at umext.maine.edu (Steve Johnson)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 09:50:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] FW: exhaust Q
Message-ID: <20439D61C0BCB243A1A53380252E50B304565C3A@backend.umext.maine.edu>

******************************************************




Greetings:



I finally replaced my 1973 MGB muffler with one from Moss. I replaced
the rear muffler as I thought there as a baffle out. It turns out the
front muffler (? resonator) was a mess. In, fact, I believe it was a
Chrysler product and certainly did not fit properly. At that point, I
chose to totally remove the front muffler and run a straight pipe to the
rear (now only) muffler. It runs nice, has a nice little rumble and I am
pleased. After tooling around I started thinking (of course after
welding in the pipe) that these four cylinders tend to like back
pressure (I can near stall it out by covering the tail pipe as it is).
Does anyone think there may be a problem with what I did or do I need to
make some further adjustments as a result of what I did?



Thanks

Steve Johnson in rainy Maine





******************************************************

http://www.umaine.edu/umext/potatoprogram/

Steven B. Johnson, Ph.D.
Crops Specialist and Extension Professor
University of Maine Cooperative Extension
P.O. Box 727, Houlton Road
Presque Isle, Maine 04769
1-207-764-3361                  VOICE
1-207-764-3362                  FAX
sjohnson at umext.maine.edu        EMAIL

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  2 10:31:47 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 09:31:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] FW: exhaust Q
In-Reply-To: <20439D61C0BCB243A1A53380252E50B304565C3A@backend.umext.maine.edu>
Message-ID: <359966.26839.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Steve Johnson <sjohnson at umext.maine.edu> wrote:
I finally replaced my 1973 MGB muffler with one from Moss. I replaced
the rear muffler as I thought there as a baffle out. It turns out the
front muffler (? resonator) was a mess. In, fact, I believe it was a
Chrysler product and certainly did not fit properly. At that point, I
chose to totally remove the front muffler and run a straight pipe to the
rear (now only) muffler. It runs nice, has a nice little rumble and I am
pleased. After tooling around I started thinking (of course after
welding in the pipe) that these four cylinders tend to like back
pressure (I can near stall it out by covering the tail pipe as it is).
Does anyone think there may be a problem with what I did or do I need to
make some further adjustments as a result of what I did?



Steve, lots of folks remove the center muffler and I've never heard of any issues. Gives you a touch more ground clearance too.



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug  2 11:19:48 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 10:19:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] FW: exhaust Q
In-Reply-To: <20439D61C0BCB243A1A53380252E50B304565C3A@backend.umext.maine.edu>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0E3D@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Steve:

The factory special tuning manual recomends removing the middle muffler
for fast road use where noise is not an issue.

Usually back pressure isn't an issue until you start running open
headers or severely shortened systems.


Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve
Johnson
> Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 6:51 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] FW: exhaust Q
>
> ******************************************************
>
>
>
>
> Greetings:
>
>
>
> I finally replaced my 1973 MGB muffler with one from Moss. I replaced
> the rear muffler as I thought there as a baffle out. It turns out the
> front muffler (? resonator) was a mess. In, fact, I believe it was a
> Chrysler product and certainly did not fit properly. At that point, I
> chose to totally remove the front muffler and run a straight pipe to
the
> rear (now only) muffler. It runs nice, has a nice little rumble and I
am
> pleased. After tooling around I started thinking (of course after
> welding in the pipe) that these four cylinders tend to like back
> pressure (I can near stall it out by covering the tail pipe as it is).
> Does anyone think there may be a problem with what I did or do I need
to
> make some further adjustments as a result of what I did?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve Johnson in rainy Maine

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Aug  2 11:43:16 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 13:43:16 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <ce9.15dfd15c.33e371b4@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2007 10:14:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

Comment:  No stock engined MGB needs anything more than  properly
serviced stock brakes.

And they also thought you couldn't  drive faster than 40 mph or you would
asphyxiate. Sorry, but this comment  is hogwash. Today's bargain basement
tires have a lot more grip than the  original design specification and
many owners are going to 15" wheels  specifically to be able to use high
grip modern performance tires. Our cars  are on the road with vehicles
that have insanely good brakes so if I'm  cruising at 70 mph I'd like to
be able to stop in an emergency without rear  ending the modern car in
front of me. For safety sake any brake improvement  is a positive thing.



 
____________________________________


Uh, Kelvin, I think that the hogwash comment applies  to your statement and 
my original one is accurate.  If you can lock  the wheels with reasonable feel 
and modulation and you can do it repeatedly from  high speed, no amount of 
upgrading, including fitting Formula 1 brakes is going  to improve the situation, 
though it will certainly lighten your  wallet.
 
MGBs were always built to function to100 MPH so your comment  about 40 MPH is 
gratuitous.
 
The fact that modern rubber has better grip enhances braking,  it doesn't 
challenge the braking components. With dead stock perfectly  functioning original 
components (I keep repeating this because so many people  seem to switch from 
thrashed original components that are hardly working and  then swear that all 
the improvement was due to the new brakes, which hardly  gives the original 
equipment its due), modern rubber will give better braking  than in the 1960s.
 
The other area where braking technology has improved  considerably is brake 
pad material.  Use a decent pad that is specified for  the sort of driving you 
are going to do. Don't put in a stock street pad and  then complain if it 
fades when you come racing down a mountain.
 
If you want to be ready for extreme use, put in some modern  carbon-Kevlar 
pads. Unlike the Good Old Days, a real racing pad won't decline to  stop with 
the first couple of tries, that is they don't just work when they are  up to 
operating temperature, they work pretty darned well from the first  stop.
 
If you want more details, see my article on braking equipment  scheduled to 
be published in the September issue of the Namgar  magazine.
 
There are some cars that have substandard brakes for modern  driving. I would 
include just about any front drum brake car like the MGA 1500  in this, as 
well as some disc braked cars with inadequate brake specification -  Mini 
Coopers, for instance. 
 
MGBs are not among these, and SCCA racers have been running  for years with 
stock equipment, optimised by attending to selection of pad  material and 
suitable cooling measures.
 
I understand that many people want to convert to neat  brakes, but let's not 
pretend that these conversions are necessary for  safe braking performance.
 
Bill S.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Thu Aug  2 16:51:59 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 08:21:59 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <ce9.15dfd15c.33e371b4@aol.com>
References: <ce9.15dfd15c.33e371b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2ABDB1DC-3F0D-4D4A-AD10-CC362080BCA7@erickson.on.net>

On 03/08/2007, at 3:13 AM, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

>
> Uh, Kelvin, I think that the hogwash comment applies  to your  
> statement and
> my original one is accurate.  If you can lock  the wheels with  
> reasonable feel
> and modulation and you can do it repeatedly from  high speed, no  
> amount of
> upgrading, including fitting Formula 1 brakes is going  to improve  
> the situation,
> though it will certainly lighten your  wallet.
>

Just to throw in my 2c worth.

I now have disc brakes on the rear yet I believe they have made no  
substantial difference to my braking on the racetrack from in excess  
of 100mph.

In fact any improvement they have made has possibly been offset by  
the lack of "feel" I used to get with the rear drums.  And when I am  
braking from 100mph plus, I am braking HARD.  Nowdays I fiddle with  
brake bias to try to replicate that "feel" I used to have,

I run on soft compound, 205*50*15 tyres and I could lock those with  
the drums so I am not sure how much more braking you could use.  With  
the rest of the braking system as standard all you need is a slightly  
stronger right leg than those guys with all disc, all powered  
brakes  :-)




Eric
'68 MGB MkII
Adelaide, South Australia

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Aug  2 16:54:43 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 18:54:43 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <c0a.1cd99677.33e3bab3@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2007 10:14:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

I  suggest that we all go out and do a brake trial on a deserted section
of  highway. Based on experience, you will find that under progressive
braking,  the front brakes do not lock up first. 

The next trial is to do some  hard downhill driving and note how much
fade the stock brake system  experiences. 

Moss initiated design of the big brake kit after  installing the
supercharger system on their 1973 MGB. The road testers were  a bit
concerned about flogging the car with the stock brakes  especially
following some brake fade issues driving over Hwy 154 and 150.   
____________________________________
 
Kelvin, just a follow-up to my previous note.
 
The bias inequity between stock front and rear was apparent to the  factory 
and they specified a different rear wheel cylinder to rectify the  problem back 
in the production period.  That is why the rears lock before  the rears, not 
because of any inadequacy in the brake specification of the front  brakes.
 
Similarly, the fronts fading has nothing to do with design - it is  entirely 
a function of what pads you use. As I pointed out in my previous note,  if you 
want to run them down mountains at speed, you better stick some better  pads 
in there. I understand that vendors like that Moss Motors place offer quite  a 
variety of different pads...:-)
 
Bill S.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Aug  2 17:01:21 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 19:01:21 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <ca1.17b4b86a.33e3bc41@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2007 3:52:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
eric at erickson.on.net writes:

I now  have disc brakes on the rear yet I believe they have made no   
substantial difference to my braking on the racetrack from in excess   
of 100mph.



 
____________________________________


I run 4 wheel discs on my MGA race car and the main virtue is  that they will 
never fade. Having said that, rear drums don't usually fade much  with decent 
shoes as the vast majority of braking effort is on the front. In  fact I once 
had a problem with my rear brakes back when I was running drums  (before I 
could convince them that such a thing as the 1600 Deluxe existed). I  just 
removed the line at the T on the frame and inserted a bleed screw to block  it off 
without telling anyone in tech. Running with front brakes only wasn't  much 
different than usual, except that it seemed to affect the trailing braking  
technique I use to settle the car on the suspension part way into the corner -  no 
big deal.
 
Bill

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug  2 17:40:58 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 16:40:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0F35@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I'm working on re-sourcing early MG Midget seat frame support wooden
strips. My question is whether anyone has a good idea on what type of
wood they were originally made from? They appear to be the same as MGB
ones, so if there are any carpenters out there who recognized the wood
type or could suggest similar materials please let me know.

Thanks



Kelvin Dodd

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug  2 17:51:47 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 16:51:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0F35@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C2D7BC23.121A7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I am going to say ash wood.

I am sure they have to be hardwood, since softwood would not be up to the
crushing load (though the hem/fir I've seen lately is as hard as rock).

But specifically, the set in my MG seems to have the sort of bold grain
pattern seen on Louisville Sluggers, hence ash wood. Moreover, ash was
traditionally used for framing in coachbuilding, so would be likely to be
"in stock". It is also eminently suitable for the task.

But it's not as if I actually know anything about carpentry, so TIFWIW...

Oh, I understand that ash is getting hard to find, which is why some major
leaguers are turning to maple bats. So maple might be an appropriate
substitute.
 
--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/2/07 4:40 PM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote:

> I'm working on re-sourcing early MG Midget seat frame support wooden
> strips. My question is whether anyone has a good idea on what type of
> wood they were originally made from? They appear to be the same as MGB
> ones, so if there are any carpenters out there who recognized the wood
> type or could suggest similar materials please let me know.
> 
> Thanks

From msjeffcock at eastlink.ca  Thu Aug  2 20:05:58 2007
From: msjeffcock at eastlink.ca (Malcolm Jeffcock)
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 23:05:58 -0300
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
References: <C2D7BC23.121A7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001301c7d572$d528fe10$6501a8c0@D95Y3D91>

Hello Max and all others:
                                           When I restored my B (which came 
in bits and boxes) I  reproduced 4 new ones so  I took the one I had left 
which was in less than ideal shape to a lumber yard. The staff had lots of 
opinions most settled on either oak or ash and then a good debate between 
red vs. white oak (like I said the one I had was in less than ideal 
condition. After getting opinions I made mine from oak. This spring I 
replaced my seat mounting bolts so had a chance to look at the wood after 
fours years of use---they were the same as the day I put them in except for 
some colour change where the tracks rested.
                                                Bottom line I'd choose oak 
again...
                                                                             
                                        Malcolm

                                                                             
Malcolm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports


>I am going to say ash wood.
>
> I am sure they have to be hardwood, since softwood would not be up to the
> crushing load (though the hem/fir I've seen lately is as hard as rock).
>
> But specifically, the set in my MG seems to have the sort of bold grain
> pattern seen on Louisville Sluggers, hence ash wood. Moreover, ash was
> traditionally used for framing in coachbuilding, so would be likely to be
> "in stock". It is also eminently suitable for the task.
>
> But it's not as if I actually know anything about carpentry, so TIFWIW...
>
> Oh, I understand that ash is getting hard to find, which is why some major
> leaguers are turning to maple bats. So maple might be an appropriate
> substitute.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 8/2/07 4:40 PM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote:
>
>> I'm working on re-sourcing early MG Midget seat frame support wooden
>> strips. My question is whether anyone has a good idea on what type of
>> wood they were originally made from? They appear to be the same as MGB
>> ones, so if there are any carpenters out there who recognized the wood
>> type or could suggest similar materials please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> msjeffcock at eastlink.ca
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/931 - Release Date: 01/08/2007 
> 4:53 PM

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  2 21:54:55 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 20:54:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC
Message-ID: <294117.19966.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Please excuse the broadband noise but are there any
hams here in MG land?

rick / wd4kib

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Fri Aug  3 00:23:22 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2007 01:23:22 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
Message-ID: <46B2C9DA.3090301@wi.net>

OK, we're up 34.2 to 34.1............I gotta go nite-nite.
Keep it goin'!

http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx

Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug  3 01:53:31 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 08:53:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0E3A@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <008d01c7d5a3$e6112fa0$0200a8c0@Three>

Hogwash indeed.  Either something is wrong with your brakes, or you just 
aren't pushing hard enough.  You would have to go way above the original 
*size* of tyre to exceed the power of the brakes - with modern tyres on my 
cars and with my legs anyway.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
I suggest that we all go out and do a brake trial on a deserted section
of highway. Based on experience, you will find that under progressive
braking, the front brakes do not lock up first.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug  3 02:13:54 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 09:13:54 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
References: <ce9.15dfd15c.33e371b4@aol.com>
	<2ABDB1DC-3F0D-4D4A-AD10-CC362080BCA7@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <00c401c7d5a8$19a6c3d0$0200a8c0@Three>

They won't, just look at the size of rear disc brakes on modern cars 
compared to the fronts - they are puny.  There is so much weight transfer in 
hard braking that the rears are deliberately engineered to produce very 
little braking effort relative to the front or they will lock with 
consequent loss of control (in most people).  The GT (with the exception of 
the V8) with its heavier construction has larger slave cylinders than the 
roadster as it can take more braking effort without locking.  So the easiest 
(and cheapest) way to add more braking effort to a roadster is to fit the GT 
slaves.  Unless you can be sure that the relationship between fluid pressure 
and friction is the same with after-market discs as it is with the original 
drums, then either you are going to lose rear braking effort and hence lose 
some braking effort overall, or gain too much and get rear locking.  You 
would also have to factor in any change in tyre grip from standard, and it 
all gets very complicated - unless you can adjust the front to rear braking 
balance which is yet another modification.  It all rather goes to prove the 
point that tinkering with things rarely gains the expected improvements, you 
have to go for a wholesale re-engineer of an aspect be it engine, suspension 
or brakes before you gain much if anything.  I do acknowledge that modified 
brakes (discs and pads) may well have better resistance to fading and 
quicker response in the wet.

My son's Z3 M Coupe has very light brakes, to my taste, which is fine when 
one is driving gently (once I get used to it), but give it a bit of gusto 
and the balance seems all wrong.  When test driving my ZS 180 before 
purchase in the wet I warned the passenger that I was going to try the 
brakes and the ABS and anchored up progressively and what I thought was 
quite hard (the passenger made a comment about leaving kiss-marks on the 
windscreen) but the ABS didn't activate and neither did the wheels skid, I 
had to do it again even harder to get the ABS to work.  They are 205/45 
R17s.  I'm sure they *would* defeat the MGB brakes - if I could fit them.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I now have disc brakes on the rear yet I believe they have made no
> substantial difference to my braking on the racetrack from in excess
> of 100mph.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  3 06:25:25 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 05:25:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <46B2C9DA.3090301@wi.net>
Message-ID: <849316.34136.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I took us from 34.4% to 34.6% this am!





      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Aug  3 11:49:52 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 10:49:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <008d01c7d5a3$e6112fa0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8740C7@kb1.mossmotors.com>

So what I seem to be hearing is that the MGB brake system is optimal and
there is no sense in seeking ways to improve it.

When I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph and the idiot in the BMW in
front of me slams his brakes on because he dropped his Latte in his lap
it's not going to be much comfort knowing I have state of the art 1960s
braking technology under my right foot.

There are better components available and if it is possible to make a
positive difference in the performance of the vehicle so they continue
to be driven, I will continue to push to bring products of this type to
market.


Kelvin Dodd





> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
> Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 12:54 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; MG Listserver; Chris Attias; WSpohn4 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
>
> Hogwash indeed.  Either something is wrong with your brakes, or you
just
> aren't pushing hard enough.  You would have to go way above the
original
> *size* of tyre to exceed the power of the brakes - with modern tyres
on my
> cars and with my legs anyway.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> I suggest that we all go out and do a brake trial on a deserted
section
> of highway. Based on experience, you will find that under progressive
> braking, the front brakes do not lock up first.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Aug  3 12:04:19 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 14:04:19 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <d07.15bd327d.33e4c823@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/3/2007 10:50:07 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

So what  I seem to be hearing is that the MGB brake system is optimal and
there is  no sense in seeking ways to improve it.

When I'm driving down the  freeway at 70 mph and the idiot in the BMW in
front of me slams his brakes  on because he dropped his Latte in his lap
it's not going to be much  comfort knowing I have state of the art 1960s
braking technology under my  right foot.



 
____________________________________


Yup, you've got it exactly right - except that you don't mention that by  
using modern pad materials in a well maintained MG braking system, you'll have  
just as much stopping power as the BMW. Obviously if the Bimmer is running 8"  
slicks, his adhesion limit will be higher, but that has nothing to do with the 
 brakes. Unless you run the latest sticky street/race tire, it doesn't matter 
if  you put on enough caliper to halt a 747, you won't equal the stopping  
performance of the modern car with stickier tires.
 
With my 'antiquated' braking system (1958) on the race car, running modern  
pads, I have been able to out-brake modern Porsches, Nissans etc. running  
similar tires.
 
We have to get over the idea that old=bad or inadequate. That can sometimes  
be the case, but in many cases it clearly is not.
 
All this puts me in mind of the Fiero guys. These kids (Fieros seem to wind  
up in the hands of younger owners) are always wanting to put on bigger brakes, 
 notwithstanding the fact that the cars came with 4 wheel discs, ventilated 
in  the case of the last cars.  So you get these kids putting huge brakes from  
later GM cars on, even at the cost of losing the parking brake completely  
because they fit front calipers from a Grand-am on the rear of the Fiero (just  
because they happen to be the same bolt pattern and a larger caliper).   
Doesn't do a damned thing for the braking of the cars, which was always  perfectly 
adequate from the factory.
 
Bill S.

From battanhr at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 13:37:53 2007
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 12:37:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Thanks to anyone who voted
In-Reply-To: <544173.18158.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001901c7d605$c96b4720$6600a8c0@XPS410>

Congratulations, David. I didn't make it down for that meet, but I'm glad
your MGA got the prize. It's a very nice car.

Howard Battan
Anacortes, WA

-----Original Message-----
Subject: [Mgs] Thanks to anyone who voted

My MGA received first place at the Seattle ABFM Saturday at
Bellevue Community College.  This is the first award it's
received at an ABFM in Seattle or Vancouver BC.  Thanks to
anyone here who attended and voted.  It was very gratifying
to know that people thought we'd done a good job.

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Aug  3 08:01:47 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 10:01:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
Message-ID: <20070803.154602.3156.0.MGBOB@juno.com>

Kelvin,
   Ash was used for much of the body framing. As Max noted, it has an
open grain that looks much like oak.  
   The seat supports in both my TD and MGB appear to be a close-grained,
moderately hard wood that may be a luan or one of the many
mahogany-looking woods. There are many, including the luan that is used
to face plywood for use under vinyl floors. 
   These supports don't support much weight; it doesn't really matter
what wood one uses, except that it should be reasonably rot-resistant. 
That lets out pine.  In the northeast, commonly available hardwoods
(deciduous tree) include oak, ash, birch, maple.  On the west coast there
is redwood.
If you had pieces of a five-veneer plywood made with waterproof
(exterior) glue, that would work. 
   But as to what one chooses---I suspect that if you examine abandoned
shipping pallets you will find a hardwood that is perfect for the task,
and any one of them would do just fine. Nicely cut, sanded, filled,
stained and varnished, they would look wonderful in the event anyone ever
peered under your seat tracks. Or apply one one coat of thinned black
paint, as MG did. 
Bob
 
On Thu, 2 Aug 2007 16:40:58 -0700 "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
writes:
> I'm working on re-sourcing early MG Midget seat frame support wooden
> strips. My question is whether anyone has a good idea on what type 
> of
> wood they were originally made from? They appear to be the same as 
> MGB
> ones, so if there are any carpenters out there who recognized the 
> wood
> type or could suggest similar materials please let me know.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Fri Aug  3 15:34:44 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2007 14:34:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] test
Message-ID: <s6b33d26.019@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

test

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Fri Aug  3 17:13:32 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 19:13:32 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur Radio
Message-ID: <c43.17401269.33e5109c@aol.com>

Hey Rick!
 
I'm the proud owner of a 1960 MGA that's been in the family since  new.  I'm 
also the holder of amateur radio call sign KR6AB.
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Aug  3 18:23:00 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 17:23:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
In-Reply-To: <001501c7d580$76295960$6401a8c0@pentium>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874170@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I just love automotive archeology. The original sample I have is pretty
soft, but could still be Ash. I keep on reading that the FBI has some
kind of materials cross reference for forensic purposes but I doubt that
we can access it.

I'm going to send it to one of our wood fabricators and see what they
think. It's a US based company so we may end up going with something a
bit more available over here that can do the job like maple.

Kelvin Dodd

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 18:46:15 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 00:46:15 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] resto-sell 74.5 MGB, the continuing saga.
Message-ID: <080420070046.3897.46B3CC57000AA14100000F3922165258069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hi list.
thanks for all the suggestions on lowering car.
I saw the the title of my original post "lowering sugestions for 74.5 mgb" had 
been changed to "resto-sell mgb"
That's actually more accurate.
The good news is, back disability check arrived at last!
Bad news, I spent a bunch of it on MG parts! 

I know I should just "tart her up and sell her" (yes, I mean the car)!  but 
those of you who work on your own cars probably know that once you've taken 
something apart, you want to do it right. So I'm replacing bushings and other 
suspension items while I'm at it. Just as engine out= clutch throw out bearing, 
and clutch if needed.

Engine is a 76-80 # block. I took compression while it was cold. (on garage 
floor, in fact) and #s came up around 135.
My recollection is that I should look for #s around 150lbs, but my manual only 
goes up to 1972. I am wondering if the lower numbers are acceptable for an 
engine that probably has lower compression, and is cold at the time of test.
   
Down side is that the more $ I put into the car, the less I'll make over 
investment. 
Even though my labor is not included in costs.
Eric
1946 MG-TC
65 MGB
70 MGB
71 MGB
74.5 MGB
00 Nissan X-Terra
So many cars, so little parking

From mdharnois at mdharnois.net  Fri Aug  3 19:34:54 2007
From: mdharnois at mdharnois.net (Michael Harnois)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 20:34:54 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur Radio
In-Reply-To: <c43.17401269.33e5109c@aol.com>
References: <c43.17401269.33e5109c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <054a01c7d637$ce2d7760$6a886620$@net>

AA0BT here. License plate on the 'B is AA0BT-1.

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+mdharnois=mdharnois.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+mdharnois=mdharnois.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Wilkmanracing at aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 18:14
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur Radio

Hey Rick!

I'm the proud owner of a 1960 MGA that's been in the family since  new.  I'm
also the holder of amateur radio call sign KR6AB.

Bill Wilkman



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL
at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
_______________________________________________
mdharnois at mdharnois.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From sgorr2 at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 20:35:56 2007
From: sgorr2 at comcast.net (Steve Gorr)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 21:35:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <46B2C9DA.3090301@wi.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c7d640$2fd4e180$0707a8c0@piln160spare>

9:30 pm CDT and it looks like the Wild Card page is down?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Woerpel" <dwoerpel at wi.net>
To: "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Spridgets" <Spridgets at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


> OK, we're up 34.2 to 34.1............I gotta go nite-nite.
> Keep it goin'!
> 
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Aug  3 21:03:17 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 20:03:17 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Which Brake pads?
References: <d07.15bd327d.33e4c823@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001701c7d644$02765c60$6501a8c0@XPS400>

OK,  so which brake pads would you recommend for normal street driving??

Ron
66MGB

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Fri Aug  3 23:42:52 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 00:42:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <2ad6c6b10708031628o7a58a056j6c8dac4b57febf5b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <46B2C9DA.3090301@wi.net>
	<2ad6c6b10708031628o7a58a056j6c8dac4b57febf5b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46B411DC.8010706@wi.net>

1230am and still down.  What did you guys do during the day???!!  This 
means we win!!  Right!!!  ok maybe not quite yet.

http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>
>
>     Dave
>     59 :{)
>     59 MGA 1500
>     05 MCS

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Sat Aug  4 00:32:00 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 01:32:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <441250190708032305m3f5c50dbn7831198b28b943b6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <46B2C9DA.3090301@wi.net>	
	<2ad6c6b10708031628o7a58a056j6c8dac4b57febf5b@mail.gmail.com>	
	<46B411DC.8010706@wi.net>
	<441250190708032305m3f5c50dbn7831198b28b943b6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46B41D60.3060501@wi.net>

Bill Gilroy wrote:
> Seems to be back up 11 PM PDT.  I have to thank you guys for being all 
> over this.  First round is on me as I meet up with you guys over the 
> next few years.
>  
> -g
>
Huh?  0129am CDT and  it's not loading here.  Too much cheese here in 
Wisconsin.  I even got rid of the cookie...also ate a cookie!

Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Aug  4 02:30:59 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 09:30:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8740C7@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <00de01c7d672$cf22f920$0200a8c0@Three>

It probably *is* optimal - for an unmodified MGB, standard tyres and normal 
road use - with the possible exception of fade should one drive with gusto 
down a long mountain pass.  The best possible by today's standards?  Of 
course not.  But as has been said several times, and you seem to be 
ignoring, stopping performance depends on tyres and road surface more than 
it does brakes.  The biggest brakes in the world aren't going to make the 
slightest difference to your stopping distance if your car is shod with 155 
or 165 14s.  I'll say again, if *you* can't lock *your* front wheels (with 
standard tyres) with progressive pedal pressure on dry tarmac then there is 
something wrong with *your* brakes or *you* aren't pushing hard enough.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
So what I seem to be hearing is that the MGB brake system is optimal and
there is no sense in seeking ways to improve it.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sat Aug  4 02:42:16 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 09:42:16 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Which Brake pads?
References: <d07.15bd327d.33e4c823@aol.com>
	<001701c7d644$02765c60$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <00ff01c7d674$e9491620$0200a8c0@Three>

Anything with a proper name.  Where the proper names vary is in the amount 
and type of dust they produce, which can be an issue for cleaning wire 
wheels.  I found Ferodo produced a dust that, when mixed with wet roads, 
formed a hard coating that needed Solvol Autosolve to remove from my chrome 
wires, whereas Mintex dust came off with normal washing.

Also if one type comes with new springs and split-pins and another doesn't 
then I'd choose the ones with.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> OK,  so which brake pads would you recommend for normal street driving??

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  4 06:37:55 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 05:37:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <00de01c7d672$cf22f920$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <109219.65747.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Paul wrote, again, and its still true:

> I'll say again, if *you* can't lock *your* front 
> wheels (with standard tyres) with progressive pedal 
> pressure on dry tarmac then there is something 
> wrong with *your* brakes or *you* aren't pushing 
> hard enough.

   Why is there argument about this?  Excluding
heat-related brake fade, its about the contact patch. 
That's not to say that a big brake kit isn't a good
thing.  I'd like one but I don't need one.

rick

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 10:20:31 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 12:20:31 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <c9d.16981e9a.33e6014f@aol.com>

I have benefited in the past from this group's sage advice regarding MGA  
cooling.  To remind those who may not recall, I have an MGA 1600 with an  engine 
that has just been overhauled and given some mild performance mods by a  
reputable British car performance shop.  I'm a little concerned about the  engine 
temps I'm seeing and am seeking to cool things down a bit.   Interestingly, at 
idle, the car maintains a temp below 190, but when run at road  speed, it's 
temp raises to above the 200 degree mark.  Last night in air  temps of about 85 
degrees, I ran the car up a steady hill of about 4  miles.  Some traffic 
lights interrupted my run, but when the car was able  to move freely, I was doing 
40 mph average.  By the time I hit the top of  the hill, the temp gauge read 
212 degrees.  On the way back down the other  side of the hill, the temp dropped 
to about 190 degrees and when I got home,  after a mile or so of flat land 
driving, it was hovering around 200.  I've  replaced the gauge, and have tested 
it with a container of hot water using a  probe thermometer as a baseline.  
There is no loss of water, boil over etc,  so it's not at an extreme end.  I 
really haven't given it an "acid test"  though, so I don't know what it would do 
under really extreme conditions.  
 
I'm thinking of ordering from Moss, a radiator shroud, felt pad for the  
bonnet (the old one is gone), water wetter, and an oil cooler.  With regard  to 
the oil coolers, they offer models with from 10 to 19 rows.  I'd  appreciate any 
thoughts as to the potential effectiveness of these items.   Also, where 
should the timing be set?  I'm thinking this may be a factor  too.
 
Thanks in advance for your sage advice.
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Sat Aug  4 10:43:35 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 09:43:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <00de01c7d672$cf22f920$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874176@kb1.mossmotors.com>

My apologies Paul, I didn't mean to be obtuse.

You are correct about tires and road surface. In an earlier post I did
mention the improved tires available today.

I'm going to concede the point on tire lockup under progressive braking.
My experience has been that under extreme braking the rears will lock
first due to weight transfer. Under normal road conditions in a non
servo car locking up the front wheels can be done by stamping on the
pedal, but there is very little control or feel between unlocked usable
braking and the less useful kinetic friction of sliding tires. This is
one of the reasons that power assist units are used on many racing cars
so less pedal pressure is required to reach maximum braking with harder
racing pads so there is more control.

The move to a modern multi piston caliper design was intended to improve
pedal feel and control at this critical point just before lockup.

The rotor stops spinning when the pistons clamp hard enough to overcome
the friction between the tire and the road. This friction is constantly
changing as the road surface and suspension loadings vary during the
braking process. For maximum braking effectiveness, the clamping
pressure has to be varied to keep the tires from locking under these
changing conditions. The more rigid the caliper construction and
accurate pressure over the face of the pad, the easier it is to control
the clamping force to give maximum retardation at the edge of tire
friction limit.

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 1:31 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; MG Listserver
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
>
> It probably *is* optimal - for an unmodified MGB, standard tyres and
> normal
> road use - with the possible exception of fade should one drive with
gusto
> down a long mountain pass.  The best possible by today's standards?
Of
> course not.  But as has been said several times, and you seem to be
> ignoring, stopping performance depends on tyres and road surface more
than
> it does brakes.  The biggest brakes in the world aren't going to make
the
> slightest difference to your stopping distance if your car is shod
with
> 155
> or 165 14s.  I'll say again, if *you* can't lock *your* front wheels
(with
> standard tyres) with progressive pedal pressure on dry tarmac then
there
> is
> something wrong with *your* brakes or *you* aren't pushing hard
enough.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> So what I seem to be hearing is that the MGB brake system is optimal
and
> there is no sense in seeking ways to improve it.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 10:48:16 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 12:48:16 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <d44.f76e113.33e607d0@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/08/2007 9:21:20 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
Wilkmanracing at aol.com writes:

I'm  thinking of ordering from Moss, a radiator shroud, felt pad for the   
bonnet (the old one is gone), water wetter, and an oil cooler.  With  regard  
to 
the oil coolers, they offer models with from 10 to 19  rows.  I'd  appreciate 
any 
thoughts as to the potential  effectiveness of these items.   Also, where 
should the timing be  set?  I'm thinking this may be a factor   too.



 
____________________________________


The pad is a very good idea and the shroud will help if you don't mind the  
look.  The oil cooler may or may not affect the water temp much. The other  
thing I assume you've done is to have the rad boiled. You may also want to have  
a modern short neck put on it and run a 15 lb. cap.
 
Bill

From eugeneb at nni.com  Sat Aug  4 11:08:20 2007
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 13:08:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur Radio
In-Reply-To: <c43.17401269.33e5109c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <web-611701739@admin.nni.com>

Bill et al,

1980 B owner and ham for 32 years. 
73
Gene K1NR 

PS the Boston Area MG Club, of which I am a member,  has 4
hams that belong.  


On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 19:13:32 EDT
 Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
> Hey Rick!
>  
> I'm the proud owner of a 1960 MGA that's been in the
> family since  new.  I'm 
> also the holder of amateur radio call sign KR6AB.
>  
> Bill Wilkman
> 
> 
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
http://www.nni.com/

From MGALUVR at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 13:17:37 2007
From: MGALUVR at aol.com (MGALUVR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 15:17:37 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
Message-ID: <c25.1cf1b8c5.33e62ad1@aol.com>

Its a great combination.....Ham radio and MG's.....although I probably  won't 
be putting a mobile HF rig in either of my MG's anytime soon, HEHE...that  
interior space is pretty limited when your my age (and size). But I always have  
a Handi-Talkie with me when driving in one of the cars !   KA0SCM.....first 
licensed as a novice in 1958 when I was ten years old. Been  hamming most of 
the time since....the XYL is KA0SCN....
 
Click here for the ham shack...........................  --->>>    
_www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/qslback.jpg_ 
(http://www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/qslback.jpg) 
 
Here for the  62 MKII MGA  roadster...................--->>>   
_www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/billcarp.jpg_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/billcarp.jpg) 
 
Another view of the  62.......................................--->>>   
_www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/my62mga.jpg_ 
(http://www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/my62mga.jpg) 
 
And last, but not least, the 79 MGB  roadster......--->>>   
_www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/79mgb1.jpg_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/79mgb1.jpg) 
 
Another  view...................................................--->>>     
_www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/79mgb2.jpg_ 
(http://www.members.aol.com/mgaluvr/79mgb2.jpg) 
 
 
 
Would anyone on this list be interested in participating in an HF  MG 
net...maybe on weekends on 20 meters or something ? Let me  know.....Thanks...and 
best 73's......Bill 
 
 
 
 
 
 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From cattias at ucsc.edu  Sat Aug  4 14:55:52 2007
From: cattias at ucsc.edu (Chris Attias)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 13:55:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Big Brakes/Pads
Message-ID: <p06230900c2da9271c062@[192.168.2.3]>

I was wondering whether there was a significant difference in piston 
size between the stock calipers and the Wilwoods.  I'm guessing that 
if there was, it might have some bearing on effort required, ability 
to modulate braking, and lockup point.

I would think that the two most obvious advantages of the Wilwood 
setup would be a slightly lower unsprung weight with aluminum 
calipers--probably not noticeable in a B--and the greater selection 
of pads from Wilwood.  There were LOTS of pads with different 
characteristics available for the calipers I have on my S IIA Land 
Rover.

Kelvin:  How did you find a Wilwood caliper with dust seals?  Are 
they a special run?

-- 
Chris Attias
Felton, CA
'64 MGB

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 16:52:20 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 18:52:20 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <d53.ff3e85c.33e65d24@aol.com>

The replies I've received so far have been very helpful.   Thanks!  Just to 
close up some of the gaps in the information I provided,  the radiator has a 
new core and the distributor is new.  While there  shouldn't be any head gasket 
leaks, I'm going to do a head gasket test with the  blue fluid soon.
 
I assume every agrees 212 degrees on an uphill run is too high?
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  4 17:30:01 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 16:30:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <d53.ff3e85c.33e65d24@aol.com>
Message-ID: <438703.22586.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bill, a few issues I would consider - and the List may
have been already discussed each of these to death -
relate to combustion effeciency and volumetric
efficiency.  With the first, an overly lean mixture
burns very hot and can cause your problem.  Second,
you could have restrictions in the exhaust resulting
in excessive back-pressure.  Here's what I would
check/test (remember, diagnose BEFORE surgery):

1) correct thermostat installed?
2) collapsed/restricted coolant hoses?
3) radiator coolant flow / efficiency?
4) radiator air flow / fins clear and undamaged?
5) ignition timing / advance set right?
6) vacuum advance connected to correct manifold or 
   carb port?
7) mixture/carbs set right? 
8) exhaust unrestricted?
9) extreme but possible: incorrect or cheap after-
   market head gasket restricting coolant flow.

   In Colin Campbell's book he recommends a vacuum
gauge sampling the intake manifold pressure (vacuum)
as an indicator for sticking valves, valve timing AND
exhaust constriction.

rick

--- Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:

> The replies I've received so far have been very
> helpful.   Thanks!  Just to 
> close up some of the gaps in the information I
> provided,  the radiator has a 
> new core and the distributor is new.  While there 
> shouldn't be any head gasket 
> leaks, I'm going to do a head gasket test with the 
> blue fluid soon.
>  
> I assume every agrees 212 degrees on an uphill run
> is too high?
>  
> Bill Wilkman
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peek of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  4 17:45:59 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 16:45:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
In-Reply-To: <c25.1cf1b8c5.33e62ad1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <822898.537.qm@web82313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Friends,
   My hunch was right.  We are all a lot alike.

wd4kib	Rick Lindsay
vo1irr	Andy Proudfoot
ka0scm	Bill Dillstrom
k1nr	Gene Balinski
kr6ab	Bill Wilkman
n4ik	Stephen West-Fisher
aa0bt	Michael Harnois

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Aug  4 18:12:44 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 17:12:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] I'm home, so the repair list starts
Message-ID: <430866FA-0548-4408-A5AC-CF5388BEE282@panix.com>

Well, I'm back home.  Thanks for all the advice for the trip, it went  
off nearly without a hitch.

The only roadside "repair" I needed to do was to make the carbs a  
little richer (or rather, not lean), which was easy enough.

I averaged about 27 mpg over 2400 miles to Petaluma and back to  
Pullman, the car ran surprisingly well.  I expected all those miles  
above 4200 feet, and especially the miles above 6000 feet to be a  
problem, but they weren't.  Temps ran a little high the entire return  
trip, but it was 95+ much of the time and only once did I ever feel  
concerned about overheating.  I was climbing an 8% grade at 5000 feet  
in 100 degree weather, stuck behind a truck.


However, now that I'm home, I got a few projects.

The rust behind the passenger door is starting to get bad; the paint  
is now cracked and the metal is weak to finger pressure.  I've been  
trying to ignore this until I can get it to the shop in Tacoma, but I  
now need to explore other options to get the job done quicker.

More immediately, I am hearing a intermittent, steady squeaking that  
goes away when turning right and intensifies when turning left.  I'm  
thinking wheel bearing, would that be accurate?  I've never replaced  
or serviced them, so I'm suspicious.

Also, it looks like the oil seals I installed in the rear axle in  
November 03 are failing after less than 20000 miles of service, so  
I'll get to do that again.

Finally, my blackwall tires are grey, my front bumper is a mix of  
orange, yellow, and red bug, and the car just has that look of  
needing to be washed.

All that can be dealt with soon enough, for now I'm going to enjoy  
this beer.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/
  '75 MGB (red for now), HIF4 carbs
  '06 Subaru Impreza Outback

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug  4 18:28:49 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2007 17:28:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <00de01c7d672$cf22f920$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C2DA67D1.1225C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

On a very warm afternoon last summer I experienced this phenomenon -- it was
a spirited run in the California coast range in the company of a couple of
911s and a highly modified BMW 2002 (it had a 3-series 6, among other
things). I was striving to uphold the honor of Her Majesty's automobiles,
and not doing too badly (one of the Porsches actually pulled over for me).
But on the downhill section the brakes faded rather badly (admittedly if I
wasn't being balked so often I would not have had to use them nearly so
agressively), so that I was very relieved to reach the bottom of the hill
via the tarmac (as opposed to airborne express).

But for general use I find they serve adequately. I can't even remember a
situation in which I had to get on them hard enough to lock up, which is
certaily not the case with my other car.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/4/07 1:30 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> It probably *is* optimal - for an unmodified MGB, standard tyres and normal
> road use - with the possible exception of fade should one drive with gusto
> down a long mountain pass.  The best possible by today's standards?  Of
> course not.  But as has been said several times, and you seem to be
> ignoring, stopping performance depends on tyres and road surface more than
> it does brakes.  The biggest brakes in the world aren't going to make the
> slightest difference to your stopping distance if your car is shod with 155
> or 165 14s.  I'll say again, if *you* can't lock *your* front wheels (with
> standard tyres) with progressive pedal pressure on dry tarmac then there is
> something wrong with *your* brakes or *you* aren't pushing hard enough.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> So what I seem to be hearing is that the MGB brake system is optimal and
> there is no sense in seeking ways to improve it.

From awhitema at panix.com  Sat Aug  4 18:44:55 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 17:44:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <C2DA67D1.1225C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C2DA67D1.1225C%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <DCA7897A-9361-4995-94EC-353754B5B3A2@panix.com>

On Aug 4, 2007, at 5:28 PM, Max Heim wrote:

> On a very warm afternoon last summer I experienced this phenomenon  
> -- it was
> a spirited run in the California coast range in the company of a  
> couple of
> 911s and a highly modified BMW 2002 (it had a 3-series 6, among other
> things). I was striving to uphold the honor of Her Majesty's  
> automobiles,
> and not doing too badly (one of the Porsches actually pulled over  
> for me).

I too have experienced this.  In my case, it was a warm for the  
season spring morning, in the company of two Hinckley Triumphs (by  
invitation).  I didn't have to keep up really, just not fall too far  
behind.

I was doing rather well for the upper part of Rattlesnake grade, but  
that whole bit about stomping on the loud pedal until you have to  
brake, then brake hard, let go, stomp loud again... Rinse and repeat  
several times a mile makes brakes unhappy rather quickly.  I smelled  
them before they really started to fade.  If your MG hasn't  
experienced brake fade, you haven't found the right road.

I kept up with the Thunderbird, I never had a chance of staying  
anywhere close to the Daytona.  That bike toyed with me for 300 miles.

Actually, I recently experienced some fading again, California 1 from  
US-101 to the coast is a hell of a road, but it'll sneak up on you  
too.  I suspect the only reason I didn't suffer fade on the Redwood  
Hwy was the RV in front of me.

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/
  '75 MGB (red for now), HIF4 carbs
  '06 Subaru Impreza Outback

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug  4 18:10:49 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 19:10:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
References: <d44.f76e113.33e607d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <008b01c7d6fa$6892aec0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

my 2c

1.  water wetter is not at all effetive
2.  makes a big difference - i think you trying to cool at speed not in
traffic.  in traffic, an electric fan is the answer.  at speed, you've got
other unsolved issues.  an oiler cooler will help, but i think there's
another problem you need to solve.  be sure all incoming air goes to the
radiator; a radiator shroud will be good here.  also, get an infrared temp
sensor and see if the gage is right.  i had a friend spend hundreds of
dollars and hours chasing what turned out to be a faulty gage.  another
possible answer is to get the radiator recored; they can often add another
row or two. could you have too hot a thermostat?  try removing it and seeing
if you still have problems.  O'Reilly's insists that my cars have 190 degree
t stats; i have to ask special for a 180 or lower.
3. felt pad for the bonnet is irrelevant for overheating issues

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 19:12:38 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 21:12:38 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <c96.153a7d13.33e67e06@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/08/2007 3:53:20 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
Wilkmanracing at aol.com writes:

I assume  every agrees 212 degrees on an uphill run is too  high?



 
____________________________________


Not necessarily. If it is a new rebuild it is OK. If not, it is a bit high  
and you should look to the felt bit and higher pressure cap.
 
Bill

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 19:19:59 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 21:19:59 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <ce0.16d6996e.33e67fbf@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/08/2007 5:45:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
awhitema at panix.com writes:

If your  MG hasn't  
experienced brake fade, you haven't found the right road.   
____________________________________
 
Or you already have  the right pads in it.
 
If you drive 99% civil street driving, and 1%  hard at it down hills 
thrashing it, you can't expect the 99% pads to deal with  the 1% driving.
 
You can always spec the pads to deal with the  1% but they will be more 
expensive and may cause more rotor wear.  You  takes your choices and you pays your 
money.
 
Fortunately, if you don't mind a bit more wear  (MGB rotors are dirt cheap), 
a high performance pad is able to brake well from  the first cold application, 
unlike in days past.
 
I am not kidding you - my MG will not fade the brakes no matter how hard  you 
use it - it is just a matter of pad material.
 
Bill

From twobees at sprynet.com  Sat Aug  4 19:20:08 2007
From: twobees at sprynet.com (Norm)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 21:20:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <000001c7d6fe$c64cd5f0$182976d0@normoffice>

I agree with Bill Spohn.  I used my '66 MGB as my daily driver all over the
northeast US during the 8 years before I moved south.  Took it on business
trips, fun rides, daily highway commutes, etc. AND raced it from '99 to '04.
I never had a problem with newer cars out-braking me on the street.  And, I
was always able to brake later than most competitors on the track.

Other than new master & wheel cyls, rebuilt calipers, the only changes were
to go to cross-drilled & slotted discs, larger rear cylinders (for lower
braking pressure & thus less lock-up of the rear brakes) and semi-metallic
shoes & carbon Kevlar pads.

On both street & track the weakest link was the tires.  And, I always ran
the best tires I could find in the largest size that would fit & meet racing
regs.  It took effort to lock them up.  But, I did it a few times.

Norm Sippel

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 19:22:03 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 21:22:03 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <cf2.15629554.33e6803b@aol.com>

In a message dated 04/08/2007 5:50:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

3. felt  pad for the bonnet is irrelevant for overheating  issues



 
____________________________________


I disagree. The felt pad may not make all the difference, but it  is a step 
in the right direction - making as much air as  possible go through the 
radiator core instead of around it.
 
I moved the rad on my race car into the nose of the car and ducted it and I  
have trouble getting it up to temperature on an 80 deg. day.
 
Bill

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Sat Aug  4 19:25:37 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 21:25:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
In-Reply-To: <822898.537.qm@web82313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <c25.1cf1b8c5.33e62ad1@aol.com>
	<822898.537.qm@web82313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460708041825m7327e001o8d627bfebc3c6c64@mail.gmail.com>

Ok...  I don't know anything about your hobby, but I have enjoyed the
merits of HAMs in the past and I give a little smile to the locals
with the HAM license plates on their cars.  In MD you can get your
number plate with your HAM ID and "Amateur Radio Operator" written
under it.

Beyond the merits of just playing with electronics, what's the big
deal?  I don't know enough to see the purpose of it all.  Help a
brother out.

- Steve

On 8/4/07, Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>    My hunch was right.  We are all a lot alike.
>
> wd4kib  Rick Lindsay
> vo1irr  Andy Proudfoot
> ka0scm  Bill Dillstrom
> k1nr    Gene Balinski
> kr6ab   Bill Wilkman
> n4ik    Stephen West-Fisher
> aa0bt   Michael Harnois
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sat Aug  4 20:48:12 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 19:48:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <d53.ff3e85c.33e65d24@aol.com>
References: <d53.ff3e85c.33e65d24@aol.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200708041948g70a46c30xe8efe8b4663ba904@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/4/07, Wilkmanracing at aol.com <Wilkmanracing at aol.com> wrote:

>
> I assume every agrees 212 degrees on an uphill run is too high?

Is it boiling over? I would assume not, since you have a pressurized
system (or should have). If it not boiling over, then it is probably
not too hot. The only problem with getting over 212 degrees is that
any leaks will become more significant, since you now have pressure to
push the water (or steam) out.

Regards,
Simon

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug  4 21:25:32 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 22:25:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <46B2C9DA.3090301@wi.net>
Message-ID: <005901c7d710$48c64370$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

is it me, or is the site down???

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Woerpel" <dwoerpel at wi.net>
To: "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Spridgets" <Spridgets at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


> OK, we're up 34.2 to 34.1............I gotta go nite-nite.
> Keep it goin'!
> 
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
> 
> Dave
> 59 :{)
> 59 MGA 1500
> 05 MCS

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Sat Aug  4 21:50:04 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2007 22:50:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <46B2C9DA.3090301@wi.net>
	<005901c7d710$48c64370$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <012101c7d713$b582ff00$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<is it me,>>

Nope, Oliver.

<< or is the site down???>>

Yep.  about 24 hours now<F>.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  5 07:49:26 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 06:49:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
In-Reply-To: <76664a460708041825m7327e001o8d627bfebc3c6c64@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <307050.49241.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com> wrote:

> Beyond the merits of just playing with electronics,
> what's the big deal?  I don't know enough to see 
> the purpose of it all.  Help a brother out.

   Certainly. The amateur radio service was put in
place, way in the past, to provide a league of
knowledgable radio operators and a communication
service within the general public.  A collection of
trained amateurs, if you will.  Of course, that was an
era without 200+ channel TV satellite receivers in
every home, tens-of-thousands of AM and FM radios,
mobile phones with worldwide connectivity and the
Internet.  Still, Dr. Who said, "The more advanced the
technology, the more suseptable it is to primative
attack."  One might include the meyheim of natural
disaster in the definition of 'primative attack'.
  For years, amateur radio operators have been the
backbone of emergency communications.  When all the
commercial services failed in national and
international disasters, the amateur radio operators
were there.  Okay, so much of the history.
   
   Today, amateur radio provides a hobby for basically
three kinds of folks; those who like to chat, those
who want to play with electronics and those who enjoy
the challenge of telecommunications with limited
resources.  I started out in group two and migrated to
group three.  I volunteer for the subject of the last
paragraph of this note, but mostly I like CW, or in
layman-speak, Morse code at QRP or low power. Its
kinda like cars and racing: How fast do you want to
go?  It just takes money (Enzo versus Triumph.)  I
enjoy the other end of that spectrum.  (I mean, this
is the MG list, not the Ferrari or Porsche list.)  I
use the cheapest, simplest, lowest power transmitters
that still effectively communicate.  To me, amateur
radio is about communication with electromagnetic
radiation, not about interfacing your computer to the
transmitter or video chats.  Still, the hobby supports
all of the above and I do not negate any of them.
   
   In our motorsport/hobby, amateur radio operators
provide communications for much of amateur motorsport.
 Hams provide all of the radio coordination for
rallye, right up to the nationals.  I sometimes
participate in that area.

regards,

rick / wd4kib / MGB / etc.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  5 07:55:19 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 06:55:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <008b01c7d6fa$6892aec0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <857855.70500.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

> ...get an infrared temp sensor and see if the gage 
> is right.

Last weekend I went to a hot rod show and saw a car
with a radiator cap containing a thermometer.  Great
idea.  Owner wasn't there so I don't know where he got
it.

rick

From smarc at smarc.net  Sun Aug  5 12:24:34 2007
From: smarc at smarc.net (Marc)
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 14:24:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <857855.70500.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <857855.70500.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46B615E2.3030008@smarc.net>

   Only one I ever heard of is the Boyce Motometer...
Marc

   Rick Lindsay wrote:

...get an infrared temp sensor and see if the gage
is right.

Last weekend I went to a hot rod show and saw a car
with a radiator cap containing a thermometer.  Great
idea.  Owner wasn't there so I don't know where he got
it.

rick

From barrie at look.ca  Sun Aug  5 14:30:43 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 16:30:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>
	<0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <E1IHnt2-00072n-55@alpha.look.ca>

Eric,

I tried the web site but just get an error report all the time !!!


Could not load file or assembly 'App_Web_meuo9uqg, Version=0.0.0.0, 
Culture=neutral, PublicKeyToken=null' or one of its dependencies. The 
system cannot find the file specified.


At 05:01 AM 7/28/2007, Eric Erickson wrote:
> >> From his original email:
> >
> >
> > I'm asking you go to
> > http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx each
> > day and
> > vote for team "Death Trap" until Aug. 8th and forward this onto
> > anyone who
> > can help spread the word.
> >
> >
> > Click on Death Trap and enter the code on the left side of the page
> > to vote.
> > You can vote every day.
> >
> >
>
>
>Come on guys, vote early and vote often.
>
>We are falling behind - I managed to drag the Death Trap up to 29.2%
>and those Rust Rocket guys back down to 29.9%!
>
>I t could be a close finish!
>
>
>
>Eric
>'68MGB MkII
>Adelaide, South Australia
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From hardt at sonic.net  Sun Aug  5 15:53:43 2007
From: hardt at sonic.net (Ron Engelhardt)
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 14:53:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
In-Reply-To: <E1IHnt2-00072n-55@alpha.look.ca>
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca>
	<0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net>
	<E1IHnt2-00072n-55@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <46B646E7.5080504@sonic.net>

I just tried with several different browsers and got the same error, 
guess the page is toasted.

Ron
58 MGA

Barrie Robinson wrote:

> Eric,
> 
> I tried the web site but just get an error report all the time !!!
> 
> 
> Could not load file or assembly 'App_Web_meuo9uqg, Version=0.0.0.0, 
> Culture=neutral, PublicKeyToken=null' or one of its dependencies. The 
> system cannot find the file specified.

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  5 15:59:17 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 16:59:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Red Bull Soapbox Derby
References: <0bc201c7cdef$bd8b9db0$6401a8c0@Larry><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A40@EXVS01.msubillings.edu><E1IDoIj-0001hR-VK@gamma.look.ca><0da101c7cf05$1cc028d0$6401a8c0@Larry><2FE5ECF2-D67F-47DC-9A0E-6E28A394DDC9@erickson.on.net><E1IHnt2-00072n-55@alpha.look.ca>
	<46B646E7.5080504@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <01ed01c7d7ab$dfc83d50$6401a8c0@Larry>

Guys, the web page went down Friday evening.  Sorry, I thought everyone knew 
or I would have said something earlier.

I'll yell out when/if it comes back up.  Contest ends Wed.  (At least we 
were up when it went south.)

Larry Daniels

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sun Aug  5 16:28:47 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 18:28:47 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <cac.17619431.33e7a91f@aol.com>

I've received some very good suggestions from site members.   Thanks!
 
In chasing down the timing issue, I found that the clamp had not been  
tightened on my distributor.  Of course, this allowed it to seek its own  timing 
willy-nilly.  I don't have the means to do a dynamic timing, so I  set the car 
static to 7 degrees BTDC, per the factory manual.  The clamp is  now tightened 
at that setting.  I took the car out for a short test and, in  85 degree 
weather, moderately high humidity, it ran around 190 degrees for about  4 miles of 
driving.
 
Next was the matter of carb mixture.  As suggested by one lister, the  carbs 
were, indeed, set too lean.  I reset them in accordance with the Moss  SU 
video, and took another, longer, test drive.  This time the car stayed  at 190 
until I did a short run on the freeway, whereupon it moved up to around  210.  
Then, I was forced to idle in the full sun for about 5 minutes while  waiting 
for a passing train.  This time the temp gauge went up to  230.  After getting 
underway again, and after about 3 miles of driving, it  went down to below 212, 
ranging from around 200 to just below 212.  By the  time I got home, after a 
short climb up a moderate hill, the car was at  212.  
 
I checked for exhaust gases in the cooling system using a block checker and  
it showed no leaks.
 
I have on order from Moss, the rad shroud, water wetter, and felt piece for  
the bonnet.  I also plan to fill in the gap between the grille shroud and  the 
bottom of the radiator with some weather stripping.
 
The thoughts and suggestions of the group have been really helpful.   Are 
there any more thoughts, given the temps I'm now experiencing after  correcting 
the timing and fuel/air mixture?
 
Bill Wilkman
 
 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From eric at erickson.on.net  Sun Aug  5 17:36:05 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 09:06:05 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
In-Reply-To: <307050.49241.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <307050.49241.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A22DBF24-3D25-43EC-BA5F-861FE1FD6618@erickson.on.net>

--- Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com> wrote:

> Beyond the merits of just playing with electronics,
> what's the big deal?  I don't know enough to see
> the purpose of it all.  Help a brother out.
>

Yet you will chat with random people all over the world via e-mail?

I think Amateur Radio came first - then the mail-list  :-)

I used to belong to a radio club that was the first in Australia to  
have a "club (novice) call" -  VK6NFL.  this mean that those without  
a licence can use the equipment (under supervisions of a fully  
licenced operator).

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Sun Aug  5 18:14:07 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 20:14:07 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
In-Reply-To: <A22DBF24-3D25-43EC-BA5F-861FE1FD6618@erickson.on.net>
References: <307050.49241.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<A22DBF24-3D25-43EC-BA5F-861FE1FD6618@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <76664a460708051714g46df3016u854350862841cd08@mail.gmail.com>

Ok, good example.  How do you find an MGB guru in the HAM world?

I don't have any issue talking with random people.

- Steve

On 8/5/07, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
> --- Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Beyond the merits of just playing with electronics,
> > what's the big deal?  I don't know enough to see
> > the purpose of it all.  Help a brother out.
> >
>
> Yet you will chat with random people all over the world via e-mail?
>
> I think Amateur Radio came first - then the mail-list  :-)
>
> I used to belong to a radio club that was the first in Australia to
> have a "club (novice) call" -  VK6NFL.  this mean that those without
> a licence can use the equipment (under supervisions of a fully
> licenced operator).
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  5 18:06:23 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 17:06:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <008b01c7d6fa$6892aec0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <C2DBB40F.122A7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

If his coolant temp is actuallly reaching 212 at speed, changing the
thermostat to a lower temp will make no difference.

I keep seeing this misconception, again and again. Look, people -- if your
coolant temperature NEVER EXCEEDS the rating of your thermostat, then yes,
the thermostat is the controlling factor. But guess what -- if that were the
case, you wouldn't have an overheating problem, would you? The temperature
would not be exceeding 190, or 180, or whatever.

If the temperature DOES exceed the rating of the thermostat, than the
thermostat is NOT a factor (except in the rare case where a faulty
thermostat is stuck closed or partially closed). So changing to a lower
temperature rated thermostat will have NO EFFECT on the problem.

'nuff said.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/4/07 5:10 PM, Oliver at sumton at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> could you have too hot a thermostat?  try removing it and seeing
> if you still have problems.  O'Reilly's insists that my cars have 190 degree
> t stats; i have to ask special for a 180 or lower.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  5 18:13:01 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 17:13:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <DCA7897A-9361-4995-94EC-353754B5B3A2@panix.com>
Message-ID: <C2DBB59D.122A9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Actually, I find slower traffic in front of me makes me work the brakes
harder, as I have to apply them earlier, harder, and longer than I otherwise
might. Left to myself, I can back off, compression brake and let them cool.
But following an RV down a grade can force you to keep the brakes on pretty
much all the time.

In the situation I mentioned, I was running up on the bumper of the Porsche
on every curve, forcing me to brake early. 911s prefer to enter curves
slower and exit quickly; the B can scrub off a little speed in the curve...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/4/07 5:44 PM, Aaron Whiteman at awhitema at panix.com wrote:

> 
> On Aug 4, 2007, at 5:28 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> 
>> On a very warm afternoon last summer I experienced this phenomenon
>> -- it was
>> a spirited run in the California coast range in the company of a
>> couple of
>> 911s and a highly modified BMW 2002 (it had a 3-series 6, among other
>> things). I was striving to uphold the honor of Her Majesty's
>> automobiles,
>> and not doing too badly (one of the Porsches actually pulled over
>> for me).
> 
> I too have experienced this.  In my case, it was a warm for the
> season spring morning, in the company of two Hinckley Triumphs (by
> invitation).  I didn't have to keep up really, just not fall too far
> behind.
> 
> I was doing rather well for the upper part of Rattlesnake grade, but
> that whole bit about stomping on the loud pedal until you have to
> brake, then brake hard, let go, stomp loud again... Rinse and repeat
> several times a mile makes brakes unhappy rather quickly.  I smelled
> them before they really started to fade.  If your MG hasn't
> experienced brake fade, you haven't found the right road.
> 
> I kept up with the Thunderbird, I never had a chance of staying
> anywhere close to the Daytona.  That bike toyed with me for 300 miles.
> 
> Actually, I recently experienced some fading again, California 1 from
> US-101 to the coast is a hell of a road, but it'll sneak up on you
> too.  I suspect the only reason I didn't suffer fade on the Redwood
> Hwy was the RV in front of me.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  5 18:18:13 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 17:18:13 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <cf2.15629554.33e6803b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2DBB6D5.122AB%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I think you guys are talking about two different things.

There is the insulating pad for the bottom of the bonnet, and there is the
seal between the bonnet and the radiator diaphragm, and probably a seal
between the rear edge of the bonnet and the cowl. The latter two definitely
affect cooling.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 8/4/07 6:22 PM, WSpohn4 at aol.com at WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 04/08/2007 5:50:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:
> 
> 3. felt  pad for the bonnet is irrelevant for overheating  issues
> 
> 
> 
>  
> ____________________________________
> 
> 
> I disagree. The felt pad may not make all the difference, but it  is a step
> in the right direction - making as much air as  possible go through the
> radiator core instead of around it.
>  
> I moved the rad on my race car into the nose of the car and ducted it and I
> have trouble getting it up to temperature on an 80 deg. day.
>  
> Bill
> _______________________________________________
> max_heim at sbcglobal.net
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  5 20:46:47 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 21:46:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
References: <307050.49241.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com><A22DBF24-3D25-43EC-BA5F-861FE1FD6618@erickson.on.net>
	<76664a460708051714g46df3016u854350862841cd08@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c7d7d4$18de02f0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

darn.  i thought that was going to be a joke . . .





> Ok, good example.  How do you find an MGB guru in the HAM world?

From Cyc10 at aol.com  Sun Aug  5 21:26:49 2007
From: Cyc10 at aol.com (Cyc10 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 23:26:49 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC
Message-ID: <c17.1cefe2b4.33e7eef9@aol.com>

Hi Rick 
 
I was into shortwave before I got hooked on Brit cars.  Just got my  licence 
last year and I now I can talk as well as listen.
 
Al Sadur KC9JDT
Past president and founder of the Chicago MGA club
60 MGA coupe, 62 MGA RD MKII, 65 S type Jag, 70 MGB  RD



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From wkilleffer at comcast.net  Sun Aug  5 21:37:40 2007
From: wkilleffer at comcast.net (William Killeffer)
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 23:37:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGs and amateur radio
Message-ID: <C9CC1884-67A2-4CCE-8E0D-6F08FCF1187A@comcast.net>

Hello,

I got my license 11 years ago when I started dating a young lady who  
was also licensed, along with most of her family. It seemed like fun,  
and her father generously loaned me a nice Yaesu HT so I would have  
something to talk on once we found my call sign on the Arkansas  
database. About seven years ago, I was able to buy my Icom IC-W32a,  
which has been a great unit even if the battery longevity seems short  
at times. Back in those days, the traffic on the local repeaters was  
much heavier than it is now, and one featured a member's plan that  
allowed phone patch use.

As far as vehicles go, I drive a 1974 MGB and ride a 2003 Royal  
Enfield Bullet.

Thank you,
William Killeffer
wkilleffer at comcast.net
Made with a Mac

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  6 06:01:39 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 05:01:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] I'm home, so the repair list starts
In-Reply-To: <430866FA-0548-4408-A5AC-CF5388BEE282@panix.com>
Message-ID: <466017.72242.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote: Well, I'm back home.  Thanks for all the advice for the trip, it went  
off nearly without a hitch.

--------------------------
Any pics, Aaron? Sounds like a fun trip!



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  6 06:36:54 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 05:36:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <cac.17619431.33e7a91f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <10170.5640.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Since the only real indication of over-temp that you
have is the gauge on the dash, I suggest that you may
have an instrumentation error.  BTW, any chance your
FUEL gauge reads too high also?  They opperate from
the same voltage regulator.  If that thing sticks
closed, everything will read too high.

rick

--- Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:

> I've received some very good suggestions from site
> members.   Thanks!
>  
> In chasing down the timing issue, I found that the
> clamp had not been  
> tightened on my distributor.  Of course, this
> allowed it to seek its own  timing 
> willy-nilly.  I don't have the means to do a dynamic
> timing, so I  set the car 
> static to 7 degrees BTDC, per the factory manual. 
> The clamp is  now tightened 
> at that setting.  I took the car out for a short
> test and, in  85 degree 
> weather, moderately high humidity, it ran around 190
> degrees for about  4 miles of 
> driving.
>  
> Next was the matter of carb mixture.  As suggested
> by one lister, the  carbs 
> were, indeed, set too lean.  I reset them in
> accordance with the Moss  SU 
> video, and took another, longer, test drive.  This
> time the car stayed  at 190 
> until I did a short run on the freeway, whereupon it
> moved up to around  210.  
> Then, I was forced to idle in the full sun for about
> 5 minutes while  waiting 
> for a passing train.  This time the temp gauge went
> up to  230.  After getting 
> underway again, and after about 3 miles of driving,
> it  went down to below 212, 
> ranging from around 200 to just below 212.  By the 
> time I got home, after a 
> short climb up a moderate hill, the car was at  212.
>  
>  
> I checked for exhaust gases in the cooling system
> using a block checker and  
> it showed no leaks.
>  
> I have on order from Moss, the rad shroud, water
> wetter, and felt piece for  
> the bonnet.  I also plan to fill in the gap between
> the grille shroud and  the 
> bottom of the radiator with some weather stripping.
>  
> The thoughts and suggestions of the group have been
> really helpful.   Are 
> there any more thoughts, given the temps I'm now
> experiencing after  correcting 
> the timing and fuel/air mixture?
>  
> Bill Wilkman
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peek of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From awhitema at panix.com  Mon Aug  6 06:56:34 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 05:56:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] I'm home, so the repair list starts
In-Reply-To: <466017.72242.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <466017.72242.qm@web50911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9F3C2777-76DC-4575-A1A8-0D6CF860B675@panix.com>

On Aug 6, 2007, at 5:01 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Any pics, Aaron? Sounds like a fun trip!

A few.

http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/trips/2007.petaluma/

It was a phenomenal trip.

-- 
  A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.
  Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
  A: Top-posting.
  Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From awhitema at panix.com  Mon Aug  6 07:30:08 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 06:30:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] I'm home, so the repair list starts
In-Reply-To: <016701c7d806$c6ef8da0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <430866FA-0548-4408-A5AC-CF5388BEE282@panix.com>
	<016701c7d806$c6ef8da0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <6734E809-4568-4C4E-AE91-E2DA6C4736A8@panix.com>

On Aug 6, 2007, at 1:40 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Does sound like it, had that on my roadster as well as a Scimitar  
> GTE and it proved to be bearings both times.

<snip great directions>

Thanks Paul, this wasn't something I was particularly worried about  
doing, but didn't know exactly what to do.  This will make it easier.

It'll have to wait a week though, I have to deal with other  
priorities first.  Are the rear wheels going to be fairly similar?

-- 
Aaron Whiteman -- http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/
  '75 MGB (red for now), HIF4 carbs
  '06 Subaru Impreza Outback

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Mon Aug  6 07:49:17 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 09:49:17 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] My Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA (now Header Tank)
Message-ID: <bbd.1db0b38a.33e880dd@aol.com>

>>>>>I moved the rad on my race car into the nose of the car  and ducted it 
and I
have trouble getting it up to temperature on an 80 deg.  day.<<<<<
 
Interesting.  When I ran an MGB in VARA racing I installed a header  tank to 
add additional coolant capacity and give a place for the water to expand  when 
hot. This seemed to help my B run cooler in races.  I ran my  lines to and 
from the header tank by inserting some aluminum "T" fixtures (from  Pegasus 
Racing Supplies) into the upper and lower radiator hoses, thus  allowing me to tap 
the hoses leading to and from the tank into these coolant  flow areas.  In 
looking at my MGA, I was thinking I could route water to a  header tank by 
taking the hoses leading to and from the heater and routing them  to a header tank 
instead.  Any thoughts on this?
 
Bill Wilkman




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Aug  6 08:22:13 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2007 10:22:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <C2DBB40F.122A7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <008b01c7d6fa$6892aec0$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
	<C2DBB40F.122A7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1II3th-0006fS-B6@delta.look.ca>

Max,

I am always amused at some advise that one gets re thermostats.  My 
MGB GT V8 blew right at the gates at the Peace Bridge (on the way to 
the British V8 do in Willoughby, Ohio).  The guards were very nice 
and pushed me through - but one, an old car chap, said I should 
change my thermostat to 190 instead of the 170 !!  This is akin to 
people turning the thermostat up (beyond the required temp) in houses 
when they wish the house to get warmer quicker!!!

At 08:06 PM 8/5/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>If his coolant temp is actuallly reaching 212 at speed, changing the
>thermostat to a lower temp will make no difference.
>
>I keep seeing this misconception, again and again. Look, people -- if your
>coolant temperature NEVER EXCEEDS the rating of your thermostat, then yes,
>the thermostat is the controlling factor. But guess what -- if that were the
>case, you wouldn't have an overheating problem, would you? The temperature
>would not be exceeding 190, or 180, or whatever.
>
>If the temperature DOES exceed the rating of the thermostat, than the
>thermostat is NOT a factor (except in the rare case where a faulty
>thermostat is stuck closed or partially closed). So changing to a lower
>temperature rated thermostat will have NO EFFECT on the problem.
>
>'nuff said.
>
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>on 8/4/07 5:10 PM, Oliver at sumton at sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
> > could you have too hot a thermostat?  try removing it and seeing
> > if you still have problems.  O'Reilly's insists that my cars have 
> 190 degree
> > t stats; i have to ask special for a 180 or lower.
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug  6 08:43:28 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 15:43:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] I'm home, so the repair list starts
References: <430866FA-0548-4408-A5AC-CF5388BEE282@panix.com>
	<016701c7d806$c6ef8da0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<6734E809-4568-4C4E-AE91-E2DA6C4736A8@panix.com>
Message-ID: <00ac01c7d839$aed6d9c0$0200a8c0@Three>

The rears are very different.

I'm assuming you have the later tube/Salisbury axle in your 75.  These have 
a single ball bearing on the outer end of the half-shaft (plus another on 
the inner end in the diff).  When these are on the way out they usually emit 
a rhythmic rumble, rather than a squeak, as they run in diff oil.  They 
rarely fail, and should be left alone unless they have.  The oil seals can 
leak, but can be changed independently of the bearing, as can the sleeve the 
oil seal runs on.  Ask if you need to know the various techniques for 
getting at the oil seal and bearing.

Cheers,
PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  Are the rear wheels going to be fairly similar?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug  6 08:47:45 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 15:47:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
References: <10170.5640.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00ae01c7d839$af14cd20$0200a8c0@Three>

It does on a B where both gauges are electric, but originally the A (I'm 
assuming this from the subject) had a capillary temp gauge and a different 
fuel gauge system that did not use a stabiliser.  If previous posts in this 
thread have said it uses MGB electric gauges my apologies.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Since the only real indication of over-temp that you
> have is the gauge on the dash, I suggest that you may
> have an instrumentation error.  BTW, any chance your
> FUEL gauge reads too high also?  They opperate from
> the same voltage regulator. 

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  6 09:10:35 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 08:10:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Out!
Message-ID: <284225.30301.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

As noted earlier, I pulled the engine and trans from the '76B this week-end, not a bad job at all, other than jiggering around with the jack and jack stands at various points..... Got the transmission and clutch off, now I am faced with the flywheel and those darn locking tabs...... Do you just bang them down and then replace that part? Also, I suspect that I'll need to lock the flywheel in place somehow (although the clutch bolts came out easily enough, i.e., compression seemed to hold the assembly in place). Any thoughts or home-made tools for that?

Thx....

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  6 09:16:22 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 08:16:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Out!
In-Reply-To: <284225.30301.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <799668.32759.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote: As noted earlier, I pulled the engine and trans from the '76B this week-end, not a bad job at all, other than jiggering around with the jack and jack stands at various points..... Got the transmission and clutch off, now I am faced with the flywheel and those darn locking tabs...... Do you just bang them down and then replace that part? Also, I suspect that I'll need to lock the flywheel in place somehow (although the clutch bolts came out easily enough, i.e., compression seemed to hold the assembly in place). Any thoughts or home-made tools for that?

Thx....



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug  6 09:21:36 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:21:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
References: <008b01c7d6fa$6892aec0$8115a8c0@Garage.local><C2DBB40F.122A7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1II3th-0006fS-B6@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <00d801c7d83d$e2714ff0$0200a8c0@Three>

The funny thing is, with some thermostats that is exactly what happens! 
Thermostats for certain heating systems have a heating element inside them 
which causes the thermostat to switch off the boiler (and disconnect power 
to the thermostat heater) even though the room (or what ever) isn't up to 
temperature yet.  After a few moments the thermostat cuts in again and so 
on, cycling the boiler on and off, until the room gets up to the selected 
temperature.  As it does so the off periods gradually get longer and the on 
periods shorter.  The purpose of this is so that you don't get localised hot 
spots but the whole house heats up gradually and relatively evenly.  With 
these stats turning it way up *does* heat the house up quicker, as the 'on' 
periods are longer if not continuous.

The even funnier thing is that this is also how the voltage regulator on 
dynamo-equipped cars works, except the on and off periods are measured in 
fractions (thousandths) of a second, when it replaces the charge taken by 
the starter.

But as far as thermostats in a 'getting hotter than normal' situation goes, 
I'm right with you.  While the cooling capacity of the radiator exceeds the 
heat output of the engine, the thermostat will be opening and closing to 
some extent, or not fully open, and the temp gauge will be about N or about 
the temperature of the stat as appropriate.  As the heat output exceeds the 
cooling capacity the temp gauge will start to read above the 'normal' point, 
higher and higher as the heat output exceeds the cooling capacity more and 
more.  When comparing increasing speeds on the flat as the heat output goes 
up the cooling capacity also increases to somewhat balance it out, by the 
higher speed through the air.  Where the effect is most noticeable is when 
changing from cruising on the flat to slogging up a hill, probably at a 
*slower* speed i.e. less cooling but with much more heat output.  But even 
here the system is partially self-regulating, as when you increase the 
temperature of the coolant through a given cooling system it actually gets 
more efficient as the temperature differential between coolant and cooling 
medium i.e. the air is greater and the air will take more heat out of the 
coolant.

The paradox is that fitting a *hotter* stat (as I think your old car chap 
recommended) is actually the *wrong* way to go, just imagine the effect of 
fitting a 250F stat (if you could get one and were foolish enough to fit 
it).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... change my thermostat to 190 instead of the 170 !!  This is akin to
> people turning the thermostat up (beyond the required temp) in houses
> when they wish the house to get warmer quicker!!!

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  6 09:25:42 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 08:25:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <00ae01c7d839$af14cd20$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <165099.74100.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yea, Paul.  I made the same mistake.  I typed without
thinking - or reading the mg"A" in the RE-line. :-P

rick

--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> It does on a B where both gauges are electric, but
> originally the A (I'm 
> assuming this from the subject) had a capillary temp
> gauge and a different 
> fuel gauge system that did not use a stabiliser.  If
> previous posts in this 
> thread have said it uses MGB electric gauges my
> apologies.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > Since the only real indication of over-temp that
> you
> > have is the gauge on the dash, I suggest that you
> may
> > have an instrumentation error.  BTW, any chance
> your
> > FUEL gauge reads too high also?  They opperate
> from
> > the same voltage regulator. 

From matt.e.hale at gmail.com  Mon Aug  6 09:28:52 2007
From: matt.e.hale at gmail.com (Matthew Hale)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 11:28:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Engine Out!
In-Reply-To: <284225.30301.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <284225.30301.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <df635fe60708060828u71fa01fajb42d096b4158d252@mail.gmail.com>

Dan,
I did that a few years ago on my 67.  Look here to see how I did it.

http://projectmgb.hobby-site.com/11-2-2002.htm

Hope this helps.

Matthew Hale


On 8/6/07, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> As noted earlier, I pulled the engine and trans from the '76B this
> week-end, not a bad job at all, other than jiggering around with the jack
> and jack stands at various points..... Got the transmission and clutch off,
> now I am faced with the flywheel and those darn locking tabs...... Do you
> just bang them down and then replace that part? Also, I suspect that I'll
> need to lock the flywheel in place somehow (although the clutch bolts came
> out easily enough, i.e., compression seemed to hold the assembly in
> place). Any thoughts or home-made tools for that?
>
> Thx....

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  6 09:35:24 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 08:35:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] I'm home, so the repair list starts
In-Reply-To: <9F3C2777-76DC-4575-A1A8-0D6CF860B675@panix.com>
Message-ID: <378641.98264.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Aaron Whiteman <awhitema at panix.com> wrote: 
On Aug 6, 2007, at 5:01 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:

> Any pics, Aaron? Sounds like a fun trip!

A few.

http://www.panix.com/~awhitema/trips/2007.petaluma/

It was a phenomenal trip.

----------------------
Looks like it, Aaron! Glad the car ran well. BTW, the pictures of Barry Bonds with the little kid are really neat. Wonder what he said to the kid, as he was wearing all NY stuff...!




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  6 09:55:59 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 10:55:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 11
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7176.1186370832.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7176.1186370832.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7AE433B0-EAD9-4511-A5CA-6C6BA98D3561@sbcglobal.net>

What Max says here is true.    I suggest if your A is overheating you  
refer to the wealth of information at Barney Gaylords site:

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_1.htm

Personally,  first check your actually temperature with a  
thermometer.  You can easily open your radiator since it is not a  
sealed system.  (use a rag, it is still hot!) Most gauges are  
incorrect.  I run a blanking plate with themostat, (essential for hot  
weather, harder to warm up in cold) and I supplement cooling with an  
electric fan (I still have my fan blades. there is nothing wrong with  
using both).   In really hot weather the electric works well.

I also have my original radiator which has never been soldered shut  
by a radiator shop.

Mike

On Aug 5, 2007, at 10:27 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> If his coolant temp is actuallly reaching 212 at speed, changing the
> thermostat to a lower temp will make no difference.
>
> I keep seeing this misconception, again and again. Look, people --  
> if your
> coolant temperature NEVER EXCEEDS the rating of your thermostat,  
> then yes,
> the thermostat is the controlling factor. But guess what -- if that  
> were the
> case, you wouldn't have an overheating problem, would you? The  
> temperature
> would not be exceeding 190, or 180, or whatever.
>
> If the temperature DOES exceed the rating of the thermostat, than the
> thermostat is NOT a factor (except in the rare case where a faulty
> thermostat is stuck closed or partially closed).

From guinness at stclegal.com  Mon Aug  6 10:33:12 2007
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2007 11:33:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <46B74D48.20709@stclegal.com>

Bill Wilkman Originally Wrote:

    Are there any more thoughts, given the temps I'm now experiencing
    [with my MGA] after correcting the timing and fuel/air mixture?

Rick Wrote in response:

    Since the only real indication of over-temp that you have is the
    gauge on the dash, I suggest that you may have an instrumentation
    error. BTW, any chance your FUEL gauge reads too high also? They
    operate from the same voltage regulator. If that thing sticks
    closed, everything will read too high.

      rick


Reply:

I hate to offer a correction when I am a relative novice, but I am in 
the process of rebuilding my Jaeger Water Temperature / Oil Dual Gauge 
from an MGA.  Neither component is run with electricity (only the 
external light bulb is wired). The water gauge is actually a pressure 
gauge.  The ether in the metal bulb screwed into the engine expands when 
heated.  The gauge measures the pressure as the ether expands in 
proportion to becoming hotter.  Check out Barney Gaylord's site for a 
better explanation of this and most things dealing with the MGA.
On Overheating:   www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_1.htm
On the Temperature Gauge:   www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt101.htm

Besides sticking your gauge lead into boiling water, there is another 
static check of the MGA temperature gauge.  Buy a $13.99 SunPro 
mechanical temperature gauge from AutoZone  (or comparable store).  It 
will directly screw into the head where the original water temperature 
gauge lead is screwed in (be quick, because your coolant will pour 
out).  Tape or otherwise temporarily secure the SunPro gauge dial to the 
heater shelf and secure the original lead so it is not subject to bends 
or breaks (be careful here!) .  Drive around or otherwise get the car up 
to temp.  Stop, open the bonnet, and see what you have on the SunPro 
gauge (as compared to what you were getting on the original gauge). 
Alternatively you can put the Sun Pro gauge on the floor and run the 
lead through an empty hole in the bulkhead for dynamic measurements.  
This way, you do not have to open the radiator cap and you don't have to 
rely on the indirect "infrared" gauges.

You can also use the SunPro gauge as a donor for a repair to your 
original gauge (if you are daring enough).  See:  
www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
-- 
Robert Guinness
MGA 1600

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Aug  6 10:52:29 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 12:52:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
Message-ID: <20070806.125317.2964.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

 Rick,
   These were common things in the days before temp gauges in the
dashboard became the norm.  Early TDs lacked temp gauges, so many owners
bought the Moto-Meter devices for their rad caps.  Moss has them in
catalogue now.
Bob



On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 06:55:19 -0700 (PDT) Rick Lindsay
<rolindsay at yahoo.com> writes:
> > ...get an infrared temp sensor and see if the gage 
> > is right.
> 
> Last weekend I went to a hot rod show and saw a car
> with a radiator cap containing a thermometer.  Great
> idea.  Owner wasn't there so I don't know where he got
> it.
> 
> rick
> _______________________________________________
> mgbob at juno.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  6 11:02:14 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 12:02:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
Message-ID: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>

It's alive!!!!!  

And we are still ahead, but only by 2 points.  Gotta hit it again.

Pass it on to any other Brit-car (or other) lists you are on.


http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  6 11:27:03 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 12:27:03 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <000501c7d84f$049e2ec0$6c01a8c0@Garage.local>

2 points!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap


> It's alive!!!!!  
> 
> And we are still ahead, but only by 2 points.  Gotta hit it again.
> 
> Pass it on to any other Brit-car (or other) lists you are on.
> 
> 
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
> _______________________________________________

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  6 11:38:01 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 12:38:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: [Spridgets] VOTE - as many times as you can
Message-ID: <02f501c7d850$8a769900$6401a8c0@Larry>

Death Trap  36.5%
Apocalyptic Rust Rockets  34.3%
X-Wing Racer  23.4%
Big Pig Warriors  4.4%
DB5 Devils  1.5%

Now 36.4 to 34.4.  It looks like the Rusty Rockets found out, too.  Time to 
vote!

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Aug  6 12:34:21 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 11:34:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>

I just pushed DT to 37%!

Simon

On 8/6/07, Larry Daniels <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> It's alive!!!!!
>
> And we are still ahead, but only by 2 points.  Gotta hit it again.
>
> Pass it on to any other Brit-car (or other) lists you are on.
>
>
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Mon Aug  6 13:36:49 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 14:36:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <022401c7d861$2268a860$6501a8c0@actualshop>

37.4

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  6 14:00:35 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 13:00:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
In-Reply-To: <A22DBF24-3D25-43EC-BA5F-861FE1FD6618@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <198710.95344.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I used to have a 3rd Class Radiophone license...

OK, not the same thing, but we got to play around
with *big* *expensive* transmitters!  :-)


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search 
that gives answers, not web links. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC

From lrichardson4665 at centurytel.net  Mon Aug  6 15:09:33 2007
From: lrichardson4665 at centurytel.net (Larry Richardson)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 14:09:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need help re MGB windshield replacement.
Message-ID: <001201c7d86e$195ce8f0$2f01a8c0@Larry>

I'm a long time board lurker but have never posted before.

I have a 1977 MGB Roadster, my step-father bought it when it was new, then
traded it to me for my '75B almost 20 years ago.

I've recently rebuilt the engine, new front end bushings and seals,
recarpeted, and now am doing the dirty deed, replacing the windshield.

The problem I've run into is in reassembling it, I'm threading the frame to
body seal into the lower frame, however I don't have the frame attached to the
side post on the left side yet. I'm wondering  how to attach the lower frame
to the side post once the seal is properly located. How do I then get  the 2
screws that attach the lower frame to the side frame into their position, as
the seal will then be covering where they mount.

It appears to me that if I tried attaching the frame prior to mounting the
seal, there just isn't any room to slide the seal into the frame.

Can any of you resident experts here help me out on this?

Larry Richardson
1977 MGB

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  6 15:19:51 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:19:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>

Way to go, Simon.  We're at 37.7% now.  RR is at 33.8%.

I think that is our biggest lead ever.  Keep up the good work. 

We'll teach them to mess with a bunch of LBCers.

Get ready to buy some beer, Gilroy!!




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


I just pushed DT to 37%!

Simon

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Aug  6 15:27:04 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 14:27:04 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <40b437200708061427n2fdff595h5e8d0d7c9e9e9890@mail.gmail.com>

Larry,

I probably claimed other people's  efforts -- other people clicking
away at the same time as I was. That, plus it was probably just about
to roll overy anyway.

Keep up the good work everyone!

Regards,
Simon

On 8/6/07, Larry Daniels <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Way to go, Simon.  We're at 37.7% now.  RR is at 33.8%.
>
> I think that is our biggest lead ever.  Keep up the good work.
>
> We'll teach them to mess with a bunch of LBCers.
>
> Get ready to buy some beer, Gilroy!!
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
> To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 1:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap
>
>
> I just pushed DT to 37%!
>
> Simon

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Aug  6 15:32:37 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 14:32:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] My next British car (in my dreams!)
Message-ID: <40b437200708061432i11c3be35r81c04882e926dbea@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/main.jhtml;jsessionid=WFPEQITPFAMF3QFIQMFCFF4AVCBQYIV0?xml=/motoring/2007/08/04/nosplit/mfcap04.xml

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Mon Aug  6 15:40:15 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:40:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets]  Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<Get ready to buy some beer, Gilroy!!>>

And LOTS of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Non-imbiber

From frederic.clarke at navy.mil  Mon Aug  6 15:47:59 2007
From: frederic.clarke at navy.mil (Clarke, Tom   AIR4.0P NATOPS)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 17:47:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Ham Radio
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6825.1186217622.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6825.1186217622.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAA02E98AB4E114DBF4D95DDFB3A52450A4A634E@NAEAOCENEX03VA.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

W4OKW since 1956

Drove (and fell in love with my first MG-a TF) 1956

Nice coincidence!

Tom

From jello at ida.net  Mon Aug  6 16:13:04 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:13:04 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] The Continuing Quest to Cool my MGA
In-Reply-To: <20070806.125317.2964.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20070806.125317.2964.1.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <4626.209.180.80.45.1186438384.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

See Barney's site - www.mgaguru.com.  There are plenty of tips on how to
get the cooling in an MGA right.  The padding under the bonnet (and over
the radiator) is important.  Not giving air a way around the radiator is
important too. The right radiator cap is important, and often missed.  If
you can set up an overflow bottle, it helps a little.  If you can set up a
fan shroud, it helps.  A bypass blanking thermostat (at approx 10 times
the cost of a regular thermostat) helps as well.

Phil Bates
Supplied pictures of the bypass blanking thermostat for Barney's site.

From mg_garage at comcast.net  Mon Aug  6 16:20:01 2007
From: mg_garage at comcast.net (Gordies Garage)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 18:20:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Please vote & keep it going
Message-ID: <KJEIIALHPFBAEGDPLHHJMEDJCCAA.mg_garage@comcast.net>

Interesting concept.  I'm for it! 
http://www.theracingnetwork.com/ 

Gordie Bird
'62 MGA
'67 BGT 

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Mon Aug  6 16:20:48 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2007 17:20:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Need help re MGB windshield replacement.
In-Reply-To: <001201c7d86e$195ce8f0$2f01a8c0@Larry>
References: <001201c7d86e$195ce8f0$2f01a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <20070806222111.CF6491879BB@autox.team.net>

At 02:09 PM 8/6/2007 -0700, Larry Richardson wrote:
>....
>I have a 1977 MGB Roadster, .... replacing the windshield.
>
>.... wondering how to attach the lower frame to the side post once 
>the seal is properly located. How do I then get  the 2 screws that 
>attach the lower frame to the side frame into their position, as the 
>seal will then be covering where they mount.
>....

Been there.  See here: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_windscreen2
Cut two small holes in the rubber strip, just large enough to pass 
the screws and screwdriver tip.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
Webmaster and (hopefully temporary) Editor
Chicagoland MG Club
http://ChicagolandMGclub.com

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug  6 17:08:32 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:08:32 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <20070806222111.CF6491879BB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8742C7@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Kelvin Dodd

I'm getting very confused about how the optional US/Federal 68-71 MGB
fog/driving lamp switch works.

Does anyone have one fitted or know for sure how it operates?

It's a 3 position switch and controls both the fog lamp and driving lamp
circuit.

In one position the fog lamp is powered by the side light circuit. In
another position the driving lamp is powered by the high beam circuit.
This is pretty straight forward.

My questions are as follows.

1. Does the lamp logo point to left or to right (I think right)
2. What position is what.  Neutral is center. Position one top
depressed.  Position two bottom depressed.

It may be that the UK switch has the same operation, so help from over
the pond is appreciated too.

I'd like to know how the original switch is wired before entertaining
ideas to change the design.



Thanks


Kelvin.

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Mon Aug  6 17:15:06 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 19:15:06 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 13
Message-ID: <c66.19401b63.33e9057a@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/6/07 11:01:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mgs-request at autox.team.net writes:

What Max  says here is true.    I suggest if your A is overheating you   
refer to the wealth of information at Barney Gaylords  site:

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_1.htm

Personally,   first check your actually temperature with a  
thermometer.  You  can easily open your radiator since it is not a  
sealed system.   (use a rag, it is still hot!) Most gauges are  
incorrect.  I run  a blanking plate with themostat, (essential for hot  
weather, harder  to warm up in cold) and I supplement cooling with an  
electric fan (I  still have my fan blades. there is nothing wrong with  
using  both).   In really hot weather the electric works well.

I  also have my original radiator which has never been soldered shut  
by  a radiator shop.

Mike



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
Good suggestions; thanks Mike.
 
I'm curious about the banking plate with thermostat.  Can you  tell me more 
about that?  I thought you either ran a blanking plate OR  a thermostat, not 
both.  How do you combine the two, and how does this keep  things cooler?
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug  6 17:51:09 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 16:51:09 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C580F9F@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8742E2@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I think I have answered my own question. I'd appreciate verification if
possible.

The switch appears to work in the same manner as the headlight.

Position one (top depressed) no lamps

Position two (neutral center) the fog lamp is connected to the side lamp
circuit (this can be changed to the headlamp low beam circuit where
required by law)

Position three (bottom depressed) the fog lamp is still connected to the
side lamp circuit, the spot lamp is connected to the high beam circuit.

I still think the fog lamp logo points to the right.


Please inform me if anyone knows otherwise.


Thanks

Kelvin.





>
> I'm getting very confused about how the optional US/Federal 68-71 MGB
> fog/driving lamp switch works.
>
> Does anyone have one fitted or know for sure how it operates?
>
> It's a 3 position switch and controls both the fog lamp and driving
lamp
> circuit.
>
> In one position the fog lamp is powered by the side light circuit. In
> another position the driving lamp is powered by the high beam circuit.
> This is pretty straight forward.
>
> My questions are as follows.
>
> 1. Does the lamp logo point to left or to right (I think right)
> 2. What position is what.  Neutral is center. Position one top
depressed.
> Position two bottom depressed.
>
> It may be that the UK switch has the same operation, so help from over
the
> pond is appreciated too.
>
> I'd like to know how the original switch is wired before entertaining
> ideas to change the design.

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Mon Aug  6 19:11:44 2007
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 21:11:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Need help re MGB windshield replacement.
Message-ID: <74425D75-AE9E-4402-BB22-282EFE2552CB@mgcarclub.com>

> the seal is properly located. How do I then get  the 2 screws that
> attach the lower frame to the side frame into their position, as the
> seal will then be covering where they mount.
>
Did this on Friday. Fit the seal, then pull it out enough to expose  
the screw holes. After the screws are installed poke the seal back in  
with a putty knife or screwdriver blade.

Allen

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  6 20:12:53 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 21:12:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Death Trap
References: <20070723125808.OFHV18413.tomts22-srv.bellnexxia.net@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
	<1197335827.20070806163121@pacifier.com>
Message-ID: <039e01c7d898$773180b0$6401a8c0@Larry>

9:10 PM CDT
DT  38.5%
RR 33.5%

There, that oughta demoralize them for a while.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill L" <pythias at pacifier.com>
To: "Bill Gilroy" <wmgilroy at gmail.com>
Cc: "Spridgets" <spridgets at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Death Trap


Hello,


38.1  us

33.7 them...

16:30 PDT
       

http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx


-- 
Best regards,
 Bill                            mailto:pythias at pacifier.com
   "66 Sprite
         * "This is the fastest way to get drunk," said Tom quixotically.
_______________________________________________
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net

Edit your replies

http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Mon Aug  6 21:15:00 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:15:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <008301c7d8a1$24525be0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

dt = 38.6
arr= 33.5

10:14PM CDT

From battanhr at comcast.net  Mon Aug  6 21:24:16 2007
From: battanhr at comcast.net (Howard Battan)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 20:24:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874170@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <006301c7d8a2$6ff27250$6600a8c0@XPS410>

Kelvin, a suggestion on identifying the wood. Most colleges and universities
that have forestry or wood products curricula have classes in wood
technology which include identification of wood from small samples using a
microscope. It's pretty easy to do - even I could do it 20 years ago. I'd
bet you could find one in your area and have a student or grad student
identify it for you for free or for a very low price. Probably be much
easier than getting the FBI to do it for you.

Howard Battan
Anacortes, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+battanhr=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+battanhr=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dodd,
Kelvin
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 5:23 PM
To: MG Listserver
Subject: Re: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I just love automotive archeology. The original sample I have is pretty
soft, but could still be Ash. I keep on reading that the FBI has some
kind of materials cross reference for forensic purposes but I doubt that
we can access it.

I'm going to send it to one of our wood fabricators and see what they
think. It's a US based company so we may end up going with something a
bit more available over here that can do the job like maple.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Mon Aug  6 21:58:24 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 20:58:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <008301c7d8a1$24525be0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<008301c7d8a1$24525be0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <40b437200708062058q7c376e7eg813c4832b6f1b055@mail.gmail.com>

Death Trap just tipped over to 39%



On 8/6/07, WJHS1960 <WJHS1960 at comcast.net> wrote:
> dt = 38.6
> arr= 33.5

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Tue Aug  7 02:05:21 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:05:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF67F@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

UK cars didn't have a fog light fitted at all, at least not for these
years.  Off the top of my head I don't know if the rubber bumper cars
used them; I know it wasn't a legal requirement at least as late as '78
('cos my Spitfire didn't have one either), not sure when they became a
requirement.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
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Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
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delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not
guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
the UK Companies Act 1985;
PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water
Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
7770 19)
PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Tue Aug  7 02:13:19 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:13:19 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] My next British car (in my dreams!)
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF680@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Wow!!!!

Where's the engine?  Yes, OK, it's behind the cockpit of course, where
else would it go?  But this thing is so tiny there doesn't seem room for
a V8 back there.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by
return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use
or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any
delay in its receipt or damage to your system. The Penspen Group does not
guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
the UK Companies Act 1985;
PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water
Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
7770 19)
PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug  7 02:22:33 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:22:33 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 11
References: <mailman.7176.1186370832.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<7AE433B0-EAD9-4511-A5CA-6C6BA98D3561@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00f601c7d8ce$23759700$0200a8c0@Three>

Are you sure about that?  I thought unpressurised systems went out with the 
square riggers.

A 'blanking plate' is usually a restrictor to be used in place of a 
thermostat.  It basically replicates a wide-open thermostat in terms of its 
flow rate, but without the risks of sticking shut.  It is normally used in 
competition where engines are fully warmed before use, is going to be run 
very hard, and the concept of a thermostat isn't really needed.  It's said 
that the flow restriction is required, compared to simply removing the 
thermostat altogether, as without either flow rates can be higher which can 
cause turbulence, local recirculation and consequently hot-spots.  Some say 
"surely the faster the flow rate the better?" which would be correct *if* 
you could guarantee smooth flow throughout the engine and it is smooth flow 
which picks up heat best, not necessarily fastest flow.

>From the description I think the poster meant 'without thermostat' as he 
talks about it being harder to warm up from cold.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  You can easily open your radiator since it is not a
> sealed system. 

From eric at erickson.on.net  Tue Aug  7 02:52:04 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 18:22:04 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets]  Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>

On 07/08/2007, at 7:10 AM, WJHS1960 wrote:

> <<Get ready to buy some beer, Gilroy!!>>
>
> And LOTS of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>

Well I got it to 39 even (up .3%) - I will aim for 40% but it could  
take while :-)


Eric

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug  7 02:52:02 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:52:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8742E2@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <00fd01c7d8d0$3d098620$0200a8c0@Three>

Logically fog lights should optionally come on with the parking lights, and 
spots with the main beams.  It certainly wouldn't make sense for the fogs to 
only be on with the headlights, main or dipped.

The schematics show the single switch but unfortunately not the internal 
connections,  Red (parking lights) is connected to terminal 4, blue/white 
(main beam) to 5, blue/yellow (spot) to 1 and red/yellow (fog) to 2.  In 
drawing the light faces to the right same as for the main lighting switch.

The *toggle* switch looks like it was the earlier simple on/off switch hence 
one each was required for fogs and spots.  The rocker looks more like the 
main lighting switch but they have different part numbers, and indeed 
different terminal numbers on the same schematic.  The Parts Catalogue 
quotes a quantity of 2 for both items, but that could be an error i.e. 
simply carried forward from the old item to the new.

The main lighting switch is a relatively simple switch having a single input 
connected to nothing when off, connected to one of the output terminals in 
the first position (i.e. parking lights), and both output terminals in the 
second position (i.e. parking lights plus head lights).  By contrast the 
combined fog and spot lamp switch needs two inputs - one from the parking 
lights and one from the main beam.  In the off position neither are 
connected to anything.  In the first position the parking light input is 
connected to the fog light output.  In the second position the main beam 
input is connected to the spot light output.  It would make some sense 
(except for rallying) for the fog light output to be disconnected when in 
the spot light position as both aren't usually required together for road 
use (except by poseurs) and it reduces load on the dynamo/alternator, but I 
don't know whether this was the case or not.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> The switch appears to work in the same manner as the headlight.
>
> Position one (top depressed) no lamps
>
> Position two (neutral center) the fog lamp is connected to the side lamp
> circuit (this can be changed to the headlamp low beam circuit where
> required by law)
>
> Position three (bottom depressed) the fog lamp is still connected to the
> side lamp circuit, the spot lamp is connected to the high beam circuit.
>
> I still think the fog lamp logo points to the right.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug  7 02:55:00 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:55:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
References: <006301c7d8a2$6ff27250$6600a8c0@XPS410>
Message-ID: <014801c7d8d2$56c150f0$0200a8c0@Three>

To be honest and seeing the relative length of this thread I can't believe 
anyone is that bothered.  Even for extreme concourse the judges aren't going 
to analyse the type of wood.  Maybe the first four letters of 'analyse' are 
what is applicable here :o)

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Kelvin, a suggestion on identifying the wood. Most colleges and 
> universities
> that have forestry or wood products curricula have classes in wood
> technology which include identification of wood from small samples using a
> microscope. 

From RJohn50603 at aol.com  Tue Aug  7 03:33:58 2007
From: RJohn50603 at aol.com (RJohn50603 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 05:33:58 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Ham Radio
Message-ID: <cab.1772bf92.33e99686@aol.com>

Roger that!
 
Randy - 73MGB - W5WZY
 
In a message dated 8/6/2007 4:48:29 PM Central Daylight Time,  
frederic.clarke at navy.mil writes:

W4OKW  since 1956

Drove (and fell in love with my first MG-a TF)  1956

Nice coincidence!

Tom


 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  7 07:04:34 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 06:04:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] what wood for seat supports
In-Reply-To: <014801c7d8d2$56c150f0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <292765.13792.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

LOL!  Now Paul, you know its about the HOBBY, not the
practicality. :-)

rick

--- Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> To be honest and seeing the relative length of this
> thread I can't believe 
> anyone is that bothered.  Even for extreme concourse
> the judges aren't going 
> to analyse the type of wood.  Maybe the first four
> letters of 'analyse' are 
> what is applicable here :o)
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > Kelvin, a suggestion on identifying the wood. Most
> colleges and 
> > universities
> > that have forestry or wood products curricula have
> classes in wood
> > technology which include identification of wood
> from small samples using a
> > microscope. 
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug  7 09:17:25 2007
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:17:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mikuni
Message-ID: <001201c7d906$0faa7910$6401a8c0@DELL>

Looking for information on how to install a Mikuni DCOE type carb on my MGB.
I have questions on some ports.  Can anyone assist?

Thanks,

Craig

From eric at erickson.on.net  Tue Aug  7 10:24:05 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 01:54:05 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <569AF78A-F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net>

On 07/08/2007, at 6:22 PM, Eric Erickson wrote:
>
> Well I got it to 39 even (up .3%) - I will aim for 40% but it could
> take while :-)
>
>

Well, I didn't get it to 40% but they are well on the way - 39.4%   
vs  33.8%

I have to go to bed - don't let me wake up disappointed :-)

Remember - Voting ends at midnight on August 8, 2007!

http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx





Eric

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug  7 10:56:46 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 09:56:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <00fd01c7d8d0$3d098620$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874386@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Paul:

I don't have access to an original switch, but dissecting one of our
repros indicates that the guts are exactly the same as the headlight
switch, except that on the headlight has the power feed ganged across
terminals 3 - 4. The driving lamp switch does not giving separate feed
to the two lamp circuits. This makes sense, so I'm going with it.

In the US you are required to have headlamps on with fog lamps (which
makes absolutely no sense to me), but it's unlikely to be enforced in
most states.

I want to ensure that when we make a new production run the switch
performs as original, then the installer can wire it as they wish.
Personally if I had my way, I'd add the later 73-76 green jewel at the
top and make it so it will illuminate when on, but that's going beyond
the originality theme.



Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:52 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
>
> Logically fog lights should optionally come on with the parking
lights,
> and
> spots with the main beams.  It certainly wouldn't make sense for the
fogs
> to
> only be on with the headlights, main or dipped.
>
> The schematics show the single switch but unfortunately not the
internal
> connections,  Red (parking lights) is connected to terminal 4,
blue/white
> (main beam) to 5, blue/yellow (spot) to 1 and red/yellow (fog) to 2.
In
> drawing the light faces to the right same as for the main lighting
switch.
>
> The *toggle* switch looks like it was the earlier simple on/off switch
> hence
> one each was required for fogs and spots.  The rocker looks more like
the
> main lighting switch but they have different part numbers, and indeed
> different terminal numbers on the same schematic.  The Parts Catalogue
> quotes a quantity of 2 for both items, but that could be an error i.e.
> simply carried forward from the old item to the new.
>
> The main lighting switch is a relatively simple switch having a single
> input
> connected to nothing when off, connected to one of the output
terminals in
> the first position (i.e. parking lights), and both output terminals in
the
> second position (i.e. parking lights plus head lights).  By contrast
the
> combined fog and spot lamp switch needs two inputs - one from the
parking
> lights and one from the main beam.  In the off position neither are
> connected to anything.  In the first position the parking light input
is
> connected to the fog light output.  In the second position the main
beam
> input is connected to the spot light output.  It would make some sense
> (except for rallying) for the fog light output to be disconnected when
in
> the spot light position as both aren't usually required together for
road
> use (except by poseurs) and it reduces load on the dynamo/alternator,
but
> I
> don't know whether this was the case or not.
>
> PaulH.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue Aug  7 11:38:33 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:38:33 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
Message-ID: <40b437200708071038s4be359bi89b6eb0b78d7add3@mail.gmail.com>

It has dropped to 39.1% -- it looks like the Rust Rockets are fighting back.

Simon

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug  7 12:00:12 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 13:00:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
References: <40b437200708071038s4be359bi89b6eb0b78d7add3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <04a101c7d91c$ce2e4900$6401a8c0@Larry>

The Rust Rockets are in a big push.  They are comnig back real strong.  We 
need votes.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back


It has dropped to 39.1% -- it looks like the Rust Rockets are fighting back.

Simon
_______________________________________________
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Tue Aug  7 12:15:22 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 13:15:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets]  Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
In-Reply-To: <04a101c7d91c$ce2e4900$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <40b437200708071038s4be359bi89b6eb0b78d7add3@mail.gmail.com>
	<04a101c7d91c$ce2e4900$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <3161.216.183.226.225.1186510522.squirrel@www.thicko.com>

I know a guy that could have restored both his Bugeyes in all the time
he's spent screwing around with this stuff...




> The Rust Rockets are in a big push.  They are comnig back real strong.  We
> need votes.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
> To: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
> Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 12:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
>
>
> It has dropped to 39.1% -- it looks like the Rust Rockets are fighting
> back.
>
> Simon

From frankk at intap.net  Tue Aug  7 12:19:48 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 14:19:48 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets]  Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
References: <40b437200708071038s4be359bi89b6eb0b78d7add3@mail.gmail.com><04a101c7d91c$ce2e4900$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<3161.216.183.226.225.1186510522.squirrel@www.thicko.com>
Message-ID: <001f01c7d91f$8c5f5520$d98a0fce@D3N5Y331>

Hey! Hope you weren't talking about me! How did you know! I have 2 Bugeyes 
that require restoration! Another 10 years should do it!
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Spridgets List" <spridgets at autox.team.net>; "MG LIST" 
<mgs at autox.team.net>; <bugeye at yahoogroups.com>; <mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Spridgets] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back


>I know a guy that could have restored both his Bugeyes in all the time
> he's spent screwing around with this stuff...
>
>
>
>
>> The Rust Rockets are in a big push.  They are comnig back real strong. 
>> We
>> need votes.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
>> To: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
>> Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 12:38 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
>>
>>
>> It has dropped to 39.1% -- it looks like the Rust Rockets are fighting
>> back.
>>
>> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> frankk at intap.net

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug  7 12:21:30 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 13:21:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets]  Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
References: <40b437200708071038s4be359bi89b6eb0b78d7add3@mail.gmail.com>
	<04a101c7d91c$ce2e4900$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<3161.216.183.226.225.1186510522.squirrel@www.thicko.com>
Message-ID: <04b601c7d91f$c7887190$6401a8c0@Larry>

I'll let you know when I think it's any of your business what I do while 
eating my lunch.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Spridgets List" <spridgets at autox.team.net>; <mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>; 
<bugeye at yahoogroups.com>; "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>; "MG 
LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back


I know a guy that could have restored both his Bugeyes in all the time
he's spent screwing around with this stuff...




> The Rust Rockets are in a big push.  They are comnig back real strong.  We
> need votes.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
> To: "Eric Erickson" <eric at erickson.on.net>
> Cc: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 12:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
>
>
> It has dropped to 39.1% -- it looks like the Rust Rockets are fighting
> back.
>
> Simon 

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Tue Aug  7 12:34:28 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 13:34:28 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets]  Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
In-Reply-To: <04b601c7d91f$c7887190$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <40b437200708071038s4be359bi89b6eb0b78d7add3@mail.gmail.com>
	<04a101c7d91c$ce2e4900$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<3161.216.183.226.225.1186510522.squirrel@www.thicko.com>
	<04b601c7d91f$c7887190$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <3375.216.183.226.225.1186511668.squirrel@www.thicko.com>

I don't recall naming names...but guilt is a wonderful tool.

Speaking of "tools", where the hell were you a week .5 ago Friday?



> I'll let you know when I think it's any of your business what I do while
> eating my lunch.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
> To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "Spridgets List" <spridgets at autox.team.net>; <mg-mgb at yahoogroups.com>;
> <bugeye at yahoogroups.com>; "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>;
> "MG
> LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] [Mgs] Death Trap -- Rust Rockets fighting back
>
>
> I know a guy that could have restored both his Bugeyes in all the time
> he's spent screwing around with this stuff...
>
>
>
>
>> The Rust Rockets are in a big push.  They are comnig back real strong.
>> We
>> need votes.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  7 14:00:14 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 13:00:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Mikuni
In-Reply-To: <001201c7d906$0faa7910$6401a8c0@DELL>
Message-ID: <278294.49053.qm@web82302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm


--- Craig Straub <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Looking for information on how to install a Mikuni
> DCOE type carb on my MGB.
> I have questions on some ports.  Can anyone assist?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Craig
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Tue Aug  7 14:33:47 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 16:33:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mikuni
Message-ID: <OFF3626D17.365838CC-ON85257330.006F47C3-85257330.0070EDC0@exxonmobil.com>

Craig,

Check www.triumphspitfire.com.  They have done a couple of articles on this
carb being used on a Spitfire.  There's a company that advertises on their
site, www.prirace.com I think, that makes Mikuni conversion kits.  They may
be able to help you with the port connections.

Mark

73 MGBGT
80 Spitfire 1500

From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Mikuni
To: <Mgs at autox.team.net>

Looking for information on how to install a Mikuni DCOE type carb on my
MGB.
I have questions on some ports.  Can anyone assist?

Thanks,

Craig

From sgorr2 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  7 18:48:35 2007
From: sgorr2 at comcast.net (Steve Gorr)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 19:48:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com><031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry><009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop><CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
	<569AF78A-F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>

Rust Rockets are making another push! 38.5% Death Trap to 36.9 Rust Rockets.


> On 07/08/2007, at 6:22 PM, Eric Erickson wrote:
> >
> > Well I got it to 39 even (up .3%) - I will aim for 40% but it could
> > take while :-)
> >
> >
> 
> Well, I didn't get it to 40% but they are well on the way - 39.4%   
> vs  33.8%
> 
> I have to go to bed - don't let me wake up disappointed :-)
> 
> Remember - Voting ends at midnight on August 8, 2007!
> 
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Tue Aug  7 19:08:40 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 18:08:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
	<569AF78A-F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net>
	<007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
Message-ID: <40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>

A big push is needed! Rust Rockets have almost caught up.

Procedure:
1. Block cookies from www.redbullsoapboxusa.com
2. Click on Deat Trap
3. Enter the Captcha code and vote
3. Re-load the page
4. Return to step 2.

Regards,
Simon


On 8/7/07, Steve Gorr <sgorr2 at comcast.net> wrote:
> Rust Rockets are making another push! 38.5% Death Trap to 36.9 Rust Rockets.
>
>
> > On 07/08/2007, at 6:22 PM, Eric Erickson wrote:
> > >
> > > Well I got it to 39 even (up .3%) - I will aim for 40% but it could
> > > take while :-)
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Well, I didn't get it to 40% but they are well on the way - 39.4%
> > vs  33.8%
> >
> > I have to go to bed - don't let me wake up disappointed :-)
> >
> > Remember - Voting ends at midnight on August 8, 2007!
> >
> > http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  7 19:19:13 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 20:19:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com><031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry><009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop><CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net><569AF78A-F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net>
	<007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
Message-ID: <030801c7d95a$21f8dc70$6501a8c0@actualshop>

38.3% Death Trap
37.5% Rust Rockets.

From eric at erickson.on.net  Tue Aug  7 19:20:48 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 10:50:48 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
	<569AF78A-F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net>
	<007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
	<40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6CA2626A-43D6-4240-B86B-6CC99E4F0E59@erickson.on.net>

On 08/08/2007, at 10:38 AM, Simon Matthews wrote:

> A big push is needed! Rust Rockets have almost caught up.
>


Hey, I am doing my best (up 0.1%) but I really do have work to do  :-)

Back to the effort shortly - it is the 8th August here, how long  
until the comp closes (where y'all are over there)?




Eric

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  7 21:22:59 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 22:22:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MG's...and Ham Radio......
References: <198710.95344.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009d01c7d96b$6bd4ba60$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<I used to have a 3rd Class Radiophone license...

OK, not the same thing, but we got to play around
with *big* *expensive* transmitters!  :-)
>>

Me also, David.  Early '70 and a World Class EMS 2-way w/microwave integrated
covering the lower half of MI and some OH !!  And I was "it" when probs popped
up or Big M show up with something new to add!!  We were their "test EMS
situation"<VBG>!!

They gave use stuff that had NO manuals, just hand written "instructions"!!
LOL

From sgorr2 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  7 21:28:08 2007
From: sgorr2 at comcast.net (Steve Gorr)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 22:28:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com><031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry><009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop><CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net><569AF78A-F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net><007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
	<40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008501c7d96c$2433ac10$0707a8c0@piln160spare>

The Rust Rockets are now ahead 38.8 to 39.1
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


> A big push is needed! Rust Rockets have almost caught up.
> 
> Procedure:
> 1. Block cookies from www.redbullsoapboxusa.com
> 2. Click on Deat Trap
> 3. Enter the Captcha code and vote
> 3. Re-load the page
> 4. Return to step 2.

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Tue Aug  7 21:36:01 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 22:36:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com><031201c7d86f$87bb0a60$6401a8c0@Larry><009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop><CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net><569AF78A-F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net><007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare><40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
	<008501c7d96c$2433ac10$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
Message-ID: <002401c7d96d$3e73af20$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<The Rust Rockets are now ahead 38.8 to 39.1>>

Back to RR 39 us 38<F>

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug  2 11:14:43 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 10:14:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <01a501c7d4dc$3d81d140$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C7C0E3A@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Ok. I'm no longer in the Marketing Dept. and don't get commission, so
here is my honest feedback to some of the comments.


Comment:  No stock engined MGB needs anything more than properly
serviced stock brakes.

And they also thought you couldn't drive faster than 40 mph or you would
asphyxiate. Sorry, but this comment is hogwash. Today's bargain basement
tires have a lot more grip than the original design specification and
many owners are going to 15" wheels specifically to be able to use high
grip modern performance tires. Our cars are on the road with vehicles
that have insanely good brakes so if I'm cruising at 70 mph I'd like to
be able to stop in an emergency without rear ending the modern car in
front of me. For safety sake any brake improvement is a positive thing.

I'm not even going to comment on the bragging rights statement. That may
be true for a small segment of the population, but we are discussing a
very expensive, engineered OE quality brake upgrade, not a set of
spinner hubcaps.

The intent of a braking system is to achieve maximum vehicle retardation
without locking the wheels.

I suggest that we all go out and do a brake trial on a deserted section
of highway. Based on experience, you will find that under progressive
braking, the front brakes do not lock up first.

The next trial is to do some hard downhill driving and note how much
fade the stock brake system experiences.

Moss initiated design of the big brake kit after installing the
supercharger system on their 1973 MGB. The road testers were a bit
concerned about flogging the car with the stock brakes especially
following some brake fade issues driving over Hwy 154 and 150.

The kit had some major design limitations as the rotor diameter was
restricted in order to allow the kit to fit under stock road wheels.

I am not going to state that the kit if for everyone. I'm also not going
to state that the kit gives a huge difference in braking for the money.
It does not. Typically if you want to improve over the stock design,
it's going to cost a lot of money for even minor improvements.

I will state that the kit uses top of the line, leading edge OE quality
components and gives a very usable improvement to brake feel and fade
resistance.

If anyone is interested in further information, I'll gladly go on at
more length but first I would suggest reading the technical sheet on the
caliper being used at:
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/014-DRM/index.asp

Note that caliper design has changed dramatically since 1960, this isn't
some kind of foo foo go fast ricky racer bit, but a real attempt to
adapt modern technology to our vehicles so they can be safe
transportation.

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt
> Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 12:53 AM
> To: MG Listserver; Chris Attias
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
>
> It isn't going to improve your stopping performance, and may even
reduce
> it.
> As long as the existing brakes will lock the wheels on dry tarmac with
> progressive pressure they are working fine and 'bigger' brakes won't
> change
> that.  It's the tyre to road contact patch that determines maximum
> performance, so unless you change the tyre compound and/or contact
area as
> well you won't gain anything.  And if the 'bigger' front brakes mean
that
> you can lock the fronts with less pedal pressure, then that means less
> hydraulic pressure to the rears, and so *lower* braking performance
> overall.
>
> If your existing brakes can't lock the wheels, then there is something
> wrong
> with them, so fix that.
>
> PaulH.

From lrc at red4est.com  Wed Aug  1 17:46:52 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 16:46:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fw: STOLEN MGA
Message-ID: <20070801234652.GD3694@red4est.com>

Folks, my friend Jane passed this along to me asking me to pass it on.

I believe taht it is from RACER BUD <budscars at msn.com>

Forwarded message...........................

Steve Meline, Huntington Beach CA

Hi Guys.
The beige A with the smooth valance, head fairing and gold wheels
featured in the "...GT-32" and "... Smooth valance" thead is
mine. I've always wanted to show it to you but could never figure-out
the technology. I really hope you like it.
Last night, after getting home from Whistler, it was stolen. I had an
electrical fire (just smoke) on the way home with the pizza. Parked
it, and retuned to find it gone. I had it for 27 years. Get yours
insured!
Please keep an eye-out for it or its components. It has a Ford
5-speed, very well developed 18V engine, roller rockers, Maniflow
intake and exhaust manifolds, MGA SUs....


Thank you.
Steve


<head><style>body{font-family:
Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:9pt;background-color:
#ffffff;color: black;}</style><title>STOLEN
MGA</title><style></style></head><body id="compText">Hi
Larry,<br><br>Wondering if you could pass this along.&nbsp; No photo
unfortunately.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Jane<br><br><br><blockquote
style="border-left: 2px solid rgb(0, 0, 255); padding-left: 5px; margin-left:
0px;">-----Forwarded Message-----
<br>From: RACER BUD <budscars at msn.com>
<br>Sent: Jul 31, 2007 1:47 PM
<br>To:
<thunt at huntsys.com><rescueswimmertexas at yahoo.com><vincuisine at aol.com><tomd at od
dog.com><island_enterprizes at hotmail.com><arnetttim at sbcglobal.net><luckyflorid
alin at aol.com><terry at kenwoodinn.com><roadandtrack at hypermax.net.au><stuit at yahoo
.com><awildebeest at hotmail.com><skipthompson at hotmail.com><scott at vintage31.com>
<srt32f8 at aol.com><scootert2 at yahoo.com><rbr11mod at comcast.net><ronchisholm at cypr
esslaneracing.com><rleavitt at leavitt-pacific.com><bird707 at aol.com><rssquire at ao
l.com><marinda.st-clair at powerint.com><rindysgto at aol.com><rhowe at surewest.net><
rcbankmann at aol.com><peterk6367 at aol.com><paul at parcars.com><paul at swedishautofac
tory.com><mljohn at usa.com><michaelbmanning at sbcglobal.net><mikeostrov at webtv.net
><mpq350 at aol.com><mwmcd57 at comcast.net><michaelp at michaelp.org><jsms013002 at aol.
com><mhorowitz at igc.org><mark at pearsonauto.com><march24 at sbcglobal.net><hogester
@hughes.net><llarryalbedi at aol.com><slovercats at sbcglobal.net><kenarmann at hotmai
l.com><kenball at hughes.net><willis042 at aol.com><blairja at mchsi.com><pioneerab at sb
cglobal.net><jburton at exponent.com><mograce at ix.netcom.com><sfrwheel at earthlink.
net><jcondren at rmpracing.com><jjlewis at go4it-racing.com><jrice930 at comcast.net><
jpettis at comcast.net><jriley35 at aol.com><thepencilman at hotmail.com><zero260 at comc
ast.net><price.jeffrey at gmail.com><jlamm at driversdoor.com>JANE RALLY GIRL BARKER
<dancer at musician.org>,&nbsp;<jack.kuhn at comcast.net><catpusher at aol.com><horsty
@msn.com><editorgary at aol.com><esakuma at aol.com><dmunson at epri.com><rryan at frk.co
m><denniso at charter.net><dabeaupre at gmail.com><deancourt at sbcglobal.net><sewerpi
pejr24 at yahoo.com><porterfam7 at volcano.net><info at csrgracing.org><runawaybunny at t
mail.com><chuck742002 at msn.com><choopa at cox.net><cmillgen at hotmail.com><stirtzma
chine at aol.com><rossx2 at earthlink.net><bjohn at bart.gov><bforster at sccaracer.net><
lovengines at aol.com><gustafr at aol.com><robert at rfassoc.com><info at faspec.com><bil
l.mabry at oakmontsl.com><elancpe at astound.net><billb at bnj.com><wb0s at hotmail.com><
arty at artstuf.com>
<br>Subject: Fw: STOLEN MGA

<br><br>
<zzzhtml><zzzhead>
<zzzmeta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<zzzmeta content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16481" name="GENERATOR">

</zzzmeta>
<zzzbody bgcolor="#ffffff">
</zzzbody></zzzmeta></zzzhead></zzzhtml></arty at artstuf.com></wb0s at hotmail.com
></billb at bnj.com></elancpe at astound.net></bill.mabry at oakmontsl.com></info at fasp
ec.com></robert at rfassoc.com></gustafr at aol.com></lovengines at aol.com></bforster
@sccaracer.net></bjohn at bart.gov></rossx2 at earthlink.net></stirtzmachine at aol.co
m></cmillgen at hotmail.com></choopa at cox.net></chuck742002 at msn.com></runawaybunn
y at tmail.com></info at csrgracing.org></porterfam7 at volcano.net></sewerpipejr24 at ya
hoo.com></deancourt at sbcglobal.net></dabeaupre at gmail.com></denniso at charter.net
></rryan at frk.com></dmunson at epri.com></esakuma at aol.com></editorgary at aol.com></
horsty at msn.com></catpusher at aol.com></jack.kuhn at comcast.net></dancer at musician.
org></jlamm at driversdoor.com></price.jeffrey at gmail.com></zero260 at comcast.net><
/thepencilman at hotmail.com></jriley35 at aol.com></jpettis at comcast.net></jrice930
@comcast.net></jjlewis at go4it-racing.com></jcondren at rmpracing.com></sfrwheel at e
arthlink.net></mograce at ix.netcom.com></jburton at exponent.com></pioneerab at sbcgl
obal.net></blairja at mchsi.com></willis042 at aol.com></kenball at hughes.net></kenar
mann at hotmail.com></slovercats at sbcglobal.net></llarryalbedi at aol.com></hogester
@hughes.net></march24 at sbcglobal.net></mark at pearsonauto.com></mhorowitz at igc.or
g></jsms013002 at aol.com></michaelp at michaelp.org></mwmcd57 at comcast.net></mpq350
@aol.com></mikeostrov at webtv.net></michaelbmanning at sbcglobal.net></mljohn at usa.
com></paul at swedishautofactory.com></paul at parcars.com></peterk6367 at aol.com></r
cbankmann at aol.com></rhowe at surewest.net></rindysgto at aol.com></marinda.st-clair
@powerint.com></rssquire at aol.com></bird707 at aol.com></rleavitt at leavitt-pacific
.com></ronchisholm at cypresslaneracing.com></rbr11mod at comcast.net></scootert2 at y
ahoo.com></srt32f8 at aol.com></scott at vintage31.com></skipthompson at hotmail.com><
/awildebeest at hotmail.com></stuit at yahoo.com></roadandtrack at hypermax.net.au></t
erry at kenwoodinn.com></luckyfloridalin at aol.com></arnetttim at sbcglobal.net></isl
and_enterprizes at hotmail.com></tomd at oddog.com></vincuisine at aol.com></rescueswi
mmertexas at yahoo.com></thunt at huntsys.com></budscars at msn.com><div><font
face="Arial" size="2">Thanks to SCOTT PILEDRIVER BROWN for
this</font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2">Racer Bud</font></div>
<div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;
font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust:
none; font-stretch: normal;">----- Original Message -----
<div style="background: rgb(228, 228, 228) none repeat scroll 0%;
-moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial;
-moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial;"><b>From:</b> <a
title="scott at scottbrowndesign.com"
href="mailto:scott at scottbrowndesign.com">Scott
Brown</a> </div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="budscars at msn.com"
href="mailto:budscars at msn.com">RACER
BUD</a> ; <a title="thepencilman at hotmail.com"
href="mailto:thepencilman at hotmail.com">Jim Weissenborn</a> ; <a
title="cvair1 at comcast.net" href="mailto:cvair1 at comcast.net">chris meyers</a> ;
<a title="Editorgary at aol.com" href="mailto:Editorgary at aol.com">gary</a>
</div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:53 AM</div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> STOLEN MGA</div></div>
<div><br></div><font face="Geneva, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><span
style="font-size: 12px;">Steve Meline, Huntington Beach CA<br><br>Hi Guys.
<br>The beige A with the smooth valance, head fairing and gold wheels featured
in the "...GT-32" and "... Smooth valance" thead is mine. I've always wanted
to
show it to you but could never figure-out the technology. I really hope you
like
it. <br>Last night, after getting home from Whistler, it was stolen. I had an
electrical fire (just smoke) on the way home with the pizza. Parked it, and
retuned to find it gone. I had it for 27 years. Get yours insured! <br>Please
keep an eye-out for it or its components. It has a Ford 5-speed, very well
developed 18V engine, roller rockers, Maniflow intake and exhaust manifolds,
MGA
SUs.... <br><br><br>Thank you.<br>Steve</span></font>
</blockquote></body>

----- End forwarded message -----

--
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug  6 02:40:32 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 09:40:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] I'm home, so the repair list starts
References: <430866FA-0548-4408-A5AC-CF5388BEE282@panix.com>
Message-ID: <016701c7d806$c6ef8da0$0200a8c0@Three>

Does sound like it, had that on my roadster as well as a Scimitar GTE and it 
proved to be bearings both times.  The GTE was an amusing story:  It started 
squeaking near the beginning of a 200 mile trip, so I was a bit nervous 
about it seizing on me.  The closer I got to home the happier I got, and I 
was in time to get to the local dealer to get a new bearing.  Then a few 
miles from home the fanbelt broke.  Hadn't had the car long and hadn't got 
round to getting a spare yet, so it was on the phone to the AA (roadside 
rescue).  A van came out but none of their belts fitted although some were 
quite close.  He called up some other vans and eventually there were about 
four of them, none of them with belts that would fit.  Then I thought that 
if we removed the adjuster bolt altogether we might be able to get the 
alternator pushed in a bit more than the adjuster allowed, and so get one of 
the belts on that were only a bit too small on.  Sure enough - and it proved 
to be one of the belts from the original van!  By this time the parts place 
was shut, so I went next morning.  When he was pricing up the parts he said 
"You should have come yesterday, they went up by 15% this morning".

When I changed the roadster bearings I found that the original shim set was 
right, but you might like to get a couple extra each of the thin (.003) and 
medium (.005) shims just in case.  I'd strongly advise that you go with the 
shims and internal spacer as it came from the factory, although some will 
say you don't need them.  Without them the inner bearings can spin on the 
stub axle and damage it if not weld themselves to it, as well as the stub 
axle being weaker without.  Also replace the oil seal as I'm pretty sure 
that has to come out to get the inner bearing outer race out.

Lever out the old oilseal and drift out the old outer races.  Tap in the new 
outer races - bearing surface facing outwards - using the old race as a 
buffer between the hammer and the new race, keeping it as flat as possible. 
Dry-fit the bearings first to determine the shims.  Slip the roller cage and 
inner race of the inner bearing into the inside of the hub cavity, no spacer 
or shims at this stage, and cage and inner race of the outer bearing in from 
the front.  Fit the washer and nut and tighten carefully until the hub just 
starts to get a bit stiff to turn, this seats the outer races.  Remove nut, 
washer, inner race and rollers, then fit the spacer, shims, outer rollers 
and outer bearing inner race in that order, washer and nut.  Now tighten 
carefully, checking hub rotation as you go.  If the hub gets stiff again you 
need more shims.  What you and now trying to do is find one set of shims 
where there is just detectable wobble in the hub (make sure this isn't in 
the kingpin, A-arms or anywhere else), and another set .001 smaller where 
there is no wobble.  You then take the smaller set and add a .003 to it to 
get the correct .002 to .004 clearance.  You can get sets of shims in .001 
increments by juggling combinations of the three different sizes, you should 
only need four of the .003 and a couple each of the .005 and .010 to achieve 
this.

When you have the correct set take out the rollers and grease them.  Inject 
or press grease in with a finger tip from one side only until it comes out 
the other side.  Don't be tempted to press some in from both sides to speed 
things up.  Also fill the cavity in the oil seal with grease and its lip. 
Don't put any more grease in the hub cavity than that.  Refit, torque up to 
40lb ft, then torque up some more until the first set of split pin holes 
line up which should be before 70 lb ft - the maximum.  Fit split pin.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> More immediately, I am hearing a intermittent, steady squeaking that
> goes away when turning right and intensifies when turning left.  I'm
> thinking wheel bearing, would that be accurate? 

From lrc at red4est.com  Tue Aug  7 23:26:34 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 22:26:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <c00.1bc1ac3f.33e2a56a@aol.com>
References: <c00.1bc1ac3f.33e2a56a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20070808052634.GG2065@red4est.com>

On Wed, Aug 01, 2007 at 11:11:38PM -0400, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:

# Opinion:  
#  
# 1 - no stock engined MGB needs anything more than properly serviced stock  
# brakes.

Define stock?

I found that when I took my, at the time, stock, MGB to the track,
the stock braking system just did not hold up. My first step was
improved pads, Ferodo DS-11. These days there are even better ones, I
like the Porterfields.

Even the better pads were not sufficient, so I then cut about 6" out
of the valence between the frame rail and the tire. That allowed
enough air to get to the brakes that they will hold up at tracks like
Sears Point and Thunderhill.

I live in the Santa Cruz mountains and I discovered that even a
braking system that is totally adequate on the track will overheat and
"go away" when driving spiritedly (7/10th) downhill on roads like Bear
Creek and Hwy 9.

If you don't have any problems with a stock braking system, trade your
MG in on a Dodge Dart of the same vintage, you're wasting a sports car
by driving it like your grandmother's sedan.

Sarcasm aside, the abysmal nature of a stock system has more to do
with heat transfer than initial stopping power.

# 2 - while race tuned MGBs can use improved brakes they are not legal  in most 
# racing organisations - Catch 22.

Which is why racers spend cubic dollars on legal ways to improve their
braking system.

# These brake kits are for people that want to buy bragging rights and talk  
# about what great improved brakes they have, but never need to use them.

Or for people who take advantage of the myriad of open track days to
driver their MGs in the manner for which they were designed:
http://red4est.com/jasmine/sdways1a.jpg

# Putting a turbo sticker on the bumper is a heck of a lot cheaper and  
# achieves the same result.

It's much more fun to have forced induction on a stock looking MGB and
make people wonder how the hell it can keep up with the Spec Miatas
heading down the main straight.


-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From lrc at red4est.com  Wed Aug  8 00:27:27 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 23:27:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <2ABDB1DC-3F0D-4D4A-AD10-CC362080BCA7@erickson.on.net>
References: <ce9.15dfd15c.33e371b4@aol.com>
	<2ABDB1DC-3F0D-4D4A-AD10-CC362080BCA7@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <20070808062727.GH2065@red4est.com>

On Fri, Aug 03, 2007 at 08:21:59AM +0930, Eric Erickson wrote:
# I now have disc brakes on the rear yet I believe they have made no  
# substantial difference to my braking on the racetrack from in excess  
# of 100mph.
# 
# In fact any improvement they have made has possibly been offset by  
# the lack of "feel" I used to get with the rear drums.  And when I am  
# braking from 100mph plus, I am braking HARD.  Nowdays I fiddle with  
# brake bias to try to replicate that "feel" I used to have,

Interesting. The reason that I want to install discs on my BGT is
because after a few laps, the drums wear enough that I have to pump
the brakes a couple times every time I need to brake to keep the pedal
from sinking halfway to the floor. And I already have braided steel
lines. 

My hope was that with discs, the brakes would automatically adjust
themselves and I wouldn't have to do the three pump tap dance every
time I needed to slow down.

What disc brake system are you using?

# I run on soft compound, 205*50*15 tyres and I could lock those with  

What wheel and tire? I was running Kumho 195-60-14 on Minitors. I want
to shift to 15s so I can use the same tires as my spec miata.

# the drums so I am not sure how much more braking you could use.  With  
# the rest of the braking system as standard all you need is a slightly  
# stronger right leg than those guys with all disc, all powered  
# brakes  :-)

-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From frankk at intap.net  Wed Aug  8 05:00:03 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 07:00:03 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com><031201c7d86f$87bb
	0a60$6401a8c0@Larry><009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop><CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net><569AF78A-
	F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net><007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
	<40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c7d9ab$4575c6d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

There are times when I try to vote but I can't decipher that darn jumble of 
words you are supposed to copy. Happened again just now. If the intent is to 
frustrate hackers and programmers it sure works but it also frustrates those 
of us who keep deleting cookies so we can cast multiple votes!
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death Trap


>A big push is needed! Rust Rockets have almost caught up.
>
> Procedure:
> 1. Block cookies from www.redbullsoapboxusa.com
> 2. Click on Deat Trap
> 3. Enter the Captcha code and vote
> 3. Re-load the page
> 4. Return to step 2.
>
> Regards,
> Simon
>
>
> On 8/7/07, Steve Gorr <sgorr2 at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Rust Rockets are making another push! 38.5% Death Trap to 36.9 Rust 
>> Rockets.
>>
>>
>> > On 07/08/2007, at 6:22 PM, Eric Erickson wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Well I got it to 39 even (up .3%) - I will aim for 40% but it could
>> > > take while :-)
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> > Well, I didn't get it to 40% but they are well on the way - 39.4%
>> > vs  33.8%
>> >
>> > I have to go to bed - don't let me wake up disappointed :-)
>> >
>> > Remember - Voting ends at midnight on August 8, 2007!
>> >
>> > http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>> _______________________________________________

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed Aug  8 05:04:39 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 13:04:39 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874386@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <001101c7d9ab$ea66d030$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Hey Kelvin,

I wonder what theory is behind this regulation.
In the Netherlands it is not allowed to have headlamps on with fog lamps.
Fog lamps are to be switched on with sidelights only.
Rear fog lamps only are allowed when sight is restricted to less than 50 
meters.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
To: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch


> Paul:
>
> I don't have access to an original switch, but dissecting one of our
> repros indicates that the guts are exactly the same as the headlight
> switch, except that on the headlight has the power feed ganged across
> terminals 3 - 4. The driving lamp switch does not giving separate feed
> to the two lamp circuits. This makes sense, so I'm going with it.
>
> In the US you are required to have headlamps on with fog lamps (which
> makes absolutely no sense to me), but it's unlikely to be enforced in
> most states.
>
> I want to ensure that when we make a new production run the switch
> performs as original, then the installer can wire it as they wish.
> Personally if I had my way, I'd add the later 73-76 green jewel at the
> top and make it so it will illuminate when on, but that's going beyond
> the originality theme.
>
>
>
> Kelvin Dodd

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  8 05:09:21 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 20:39:21 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <001b01c7d9ab$4575c6d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry><40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com><031201c7d86f$87bb
	0a60$6401a8c0@Larry><009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop><CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net><569AF78A-
	F7A2-4226-A61F-60B152580D43@erickson.on.net><007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
	<40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
	<001b01c7d9ab$4575c6d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <AA9929B9-043A-42BE-BC9F-CAF3A9DA10C4@erickson.on.net>

On 08/08/2007, at 8:30 PM, Frank wrote:

> There are times when I try to vote but I can't decipher that darn  
> jumble of
> words you are supposed to copy. Happened again just now. If the  
> intent is to
> frustrate hackers and programmers it sure works but it also  
> frustrates those
> of us who keep deleting cookies so we can cast multiple votes!
>

Just click on that link below the jumble and it will keep presenting  
you with new versions until you find one you can read.



Eric

From grunt333 at verizon.net  Wed Aug  8 07:07:54 2007
From: grunt333 at verizon.net (CARL ELLIOT)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 06:07:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 2 Jaguars
Message-ID: <453995.58501.qm@web84307.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

2 JagS in southern NJ. Before I Ebay them or part them
out a very nice 86 XJS and a german XJ-6 to trade or
sell great price for both cant care for them any more
due to major surgerys and recovery. 609-698-5414 or 
grunt333 at verizon.net

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Aug  8 08:52:08 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 09:52:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] On the  road to Pocono
Message-ID: <20070808145943.CDBE6187BAE@autox.team.net>

On the road again!   Early Thursday morning (less than 24 hours from 
now)  my son Elliot and I will be taking the red MGA (with black 
trailer in tow) heading east from Naperville, IL.  The first day 
Thursday only) we will be traveling with a friend in a white MGA.  We 
have a short morning stop in the sticks off US-30 near Hanna, IN, to 
visit my brother.  We will be in Bowling Green, OH, momentarily in 
early afternoon at Snook's Dream Cars - http://snooksdreamcars.com
By early evening we will be in a campground in eastern Ohio at OH 303 
and OH-57, just southwest of Cleveland.

Friday we will be high-tailing it solo heading east on I-80 to arrive 
in Pocono Manor, PA, hopefully around 3 pm.  We will be grounded 
there from Friday evening to Sunday morning for the MG Drive In 
festivities. - http://www.mgdriversclub.com/upcoming/drivein11.html

Sunday we will be expressing it up I-380 and I-81 to Syracuse, NY, 
then west on I-90.  By mid afternoon we will be pitching tent at 
Niagara Falls Campground (Good Sam Park) - 
http://www.niagarafallscampground.net
We intend to spend the rest of the day at the Falls, then back to the 
campground late night.

Monday morning we expect to spend a little time on the Canadian side 
of the Falls, then head west on the QEW, C-2. C-403, C-401, arriving 
London, Ontario, by mid afternoon, checking into London/401 KOA. - 
http://koa.com/where/on/55210
Elliot visits a friend in London while I have time to kill.  Anyone 
in the neighborhood?

Tuesday we head home via C-401 to Windsor/Detroit, then likely 
express on I-94 west through Michigan (unless something interesting 
can distract us), around the lake through Indiana and back into 
Illinois.  We expect to be back home by Tuesday evening.

With a few side trips and a bit of run-around this might make about 
2000 miles in 6 days.  I should be able to check e-mail and BBS 
during the trip, likely late night daily.  Otherwise keep the 
messages short for a while.  See you on the road.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  8 09:37:17 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 08:37:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] On the  road to Pocono
In-Reply-To: <20070808145943.CDBE6187BAE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <133519.30121.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

   I am incredibly envious!

rick - stuck in 99 degree Houston

--- Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> wrote:

> On the road again!   Early Thursday morning (less
> than 24 hours from 
> now)  my son Elliot and I will be taking the red MGA
> (with black 
> trailer in tow) heading east from Naperville, IL. 
> The first day 
> Thursday only) we will be traveling with a friend in
> a white MGA.  We 
> have a short morning stop in the sticks off US-30
> near Hanna, IN, to 
> visit my brother.  We will be in Bowling Green, OH,
> momentarily in 
> early afternoon at Snook's Dream Cars -
> http://snooksdreamcars.com
> By early evening we will be in a campground in
> eastern Ohio at OH 303 
> and OH-57, just southwest of Cleveland.
> 
> Friday we will be high-tailing it solo heading east
> on I-80 to arrive 
> in Pocono Manor, PA, hopefully around 3 pm.  We will
> be grounded 
> there from Friday evening to Sunday morning for the
> MG Drive In 
> festivities. -
> http://www.mgdriversclub.com/upcoming/drivein11.html
> 
> Sunday we will be expressing it up I-380 and I-81 to
> Syracuse, NY, 
> then west on I-90.  By mid afternoon we will be
> pitching tent at 
> Niagara Falls Campground (Good Sam Park) - 
> http://www.niagarafallscampground.net
> We intend to spend the rest of the day at the Falls,
> then back to the 
> campground late night.
> 
> Monday morning we expect to spend a little time on
> the Canadian side 
> of the Falls, then head west on the QEW, C-2. C-403,
> C-401, arriving 
> London, Ontario, by mid afternoon, checking into
> London/401 KOA. - 
> http://koa.com/where/on/55210
> Elliot visits a friend in London while I have time
> to kill.  Anyone 
> in the neighborhood?
> 
> Tuesday we head home via C-401 to Windsor/Detroit,
> then likely 
> express on I-94 west through Michigan (unless
> something interesting 
> can distract us), around the lake through Indiana
> and back into 
> Illinois.  We expect to be back home by Tuesday
> evening.
> 
> With a few side trips and a bit of run-around this
> might make about 
> 2000 miles in 6 days.  I should be able to check
> e-mail and BBS 
> during the trip, likely late night daily.  Otherwise
> keep the 
> messages short for a while.  See you on the road.
> 
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Aug  8 10:05:42 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 09:05:42 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <001b01c7d9ab$4575c6d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
	<007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
	<40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
	<001b01c7d9ab$4575c6d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <40b437200708080905g7221a5d1h44e1691201cbd7ad@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/8/07, Frank <frankk at intap.net> wrote:
> There are times when I try to vote but I can't decipher that darn jumble of
> words you are supposed to copy.

It seems to me that once you get the letters wrong, the ONLY thing it
will accept is to get a new set of letters and try that.

Regards,
Simon

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Aug  8 10:10:35 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 12:10:35 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <bc2.13ff7267.33eb44fb@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/7/2007 10:27:00 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
lrc at red4est.com writes:

I found  that when I took my, at the time, stock, MGB to the track,
the stock  braking system just did not hold up. My first step was
improved pads,  Ferodo DS-11. These days there are even better ones, I
like the  Porterfields.

Even the better pads were not sufficient, so I then cut  about 6" out
of the valence between the frame rail and the tire. That  allowed
enough air to get to the brakes that they will hold up at tracks  like
Sears Point and Thunderhill.   
____________________________________

Larry, you can't say that a stock braking system is  inadequate because you 
can fade them in hard use - you have to give them a  chance to work and that 
includes adding some cooling if you intend to  race.
 
Look at an XKE for instance. The rear brakes fade badly even  with excellent 
pads, and doubling the size of the caliper and pad doesn't really  address the 
problem. They simply need some cooling air up there (they are  mounted 
inboard under the trunk where it is VERY difficult to cool  them).
 
If you are driving an MGB hard enough to fade Porterfield  pads, either 
change pad material or attend to some added cooling if that doesn't  work.
 
You can make up a quickly swappable set up using headlight  buckets with 
screened covers and attachments at the back for plastic  and wire dryer ducting to 
get some air down there.  Make sure you attach  the tubing properly near the 
brakes as otherwise the tire will catch it and  you'll look a right twit as 
you trail yards of unwound wire and plastic behind  you (don't ask me how I know 
this).
 
Many spoilers and air dams also have provision for a  duct of some sort for 
this purpose.
 
Interesting that you say you can fade the Porterfields. I  have NEVER been 
able to fade the old DS-11s - we had a local track that had a  long straight 
ending downhill, which resulted in closing speeds about 10 MPH  greater than at 
any other track on the West coast and I was never able to fade  the Ferodos 
even braking from close on 130 each lap. In fact I did manage to get  the discs 
hot enough that I melted the grease boots on the tie rod ends so it  wasn't 
that my brakes were running particularly cool.
 
And I can't believe that MGB brakes are that much inferior  to MGA (although 
the air flow will obviously be a bit different with the  different bodywork) 
as I pitted for a guy that ran a quick MGB (man after my own  heart - ran a 3 
main engine) in a 7 hour endurance race and never faded the DS-11s he used.
 
I use regular R4 Porterfields - what are you  using?.
 
In any case, it seems to me that adding a bit of air is  a much cheaper 
solution to brakes that are too hot than spending $1400 on new  brakes, but that's 
just me.....:-)
 
Bill

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  8 10:27:07 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 01:57:07 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <40b437200708080905g7221a5d1h44e1691201cbd7ad@mail.gmail.com>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
	<007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
	<40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
	<001b01c7d9ab$4575c6d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<40b437200708080905g7221a5d1h44e1691201cbd7ad@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FFC57AB0-1D5D-4518-B130-E374227A82A1@erickson.on.net>

Sheesh - couldn't get us off 38.4% no matter how many times I voted.

Now I have to go to bed (02:00hrs).  I guess it will almost be over  
by the time I wake up.  I hope you guys do us proud on the last few  
laps!



Eric

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  8 10:50:53 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 02:20:53 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <FFC57AB0-1D5D-4518-B130-E374227A82A1@erickson.on.net>
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<40b437200708061134q6e15c954y5282b973322a45cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<009b01c7d872$60b0f670$6501a8c0@actualshop>
	<CBFF82B1-6ABE-4B5F-9E73-50A9DBF53CF0@erickson.on.net>
	<007601c7d955$d9dbb290$0707a8c0@piln160spare>
	<40b437200708071808o7b63fa9akbe0da837f770dbb9@mail.gmail.com>
	<001b01c7d9ab$4575c6d0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<40b437200708080905g7221a5d1h44e1691201cbd7ad@mail.gmail.com>
	<FFC57AB0-1D5D-4518-B130-E374227A82A1@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <F3429F8A-F72C-41CC-B398-AC8F06419616@erickson.on.net>

On 09/08/2007, at 1:57 AM, Eric Erickson wrote:

> Sheesh - couldn't get us off 38.4% no matter how many times I voted.
>
>

Ugh - I am addicted.

NOW I have to go to bed...

Rust rockets - 40.8%
Death Trap  -  38.6%

That is the best I could do.  They must have LOTS of votes there  
because I barely made a dent... and I really did vote my fingers off.

<yawn>


Eric

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Aug  8 10:57:43 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 09:57:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <001101c7d9ab$ea66d030$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Hans:

It confuses the heck out of me too. I've been meaning to rewire my throw
down daily driver so the foglights come on with the sidelamps the way
God intended them to. I've no concept who came up with the idea that
they had to come on with the headlamps, but that's DOT for you.

But then I'm also astonished at the complete lack of thought shown by
some drivers in America.

For many years I was furious that the DOT would not allow rear fog lamps
on US cars as they were determined to be hazardous if used incorrectly.
After driving in the UK, I was sold on how effective they were.

Finally the DOT relented and we can finally get rear fog lights but time
after time I see idiots driving down the freeway at night in perfect
weather with them on. Makes me mad enough to almost want to ram them.

I hate the thought of more regulations and policing, but in cases such
as this I come close to wishing for more enforcement.

Seriously, I've come to the conclusion that it's a good thing brake
lights are automatic otherwise it would be carnage out there.

I have noticed the serious problems with defective turn signals on many
newer BMW and Mercedes cars. It makes even Lucas look dependable.

Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hans Duinhoven [mailto:h.duinhoven at planet.nl]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 4:05 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; Paul Hunt; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
>
> Hey Kelvin,
>
> I wonder what theory is behind this regulation.
> In the Netherlands it is not allowed to have headlamps on with fog
lamps.
> Fog lamps are to be switched on with sidelights only.
> Rear fog lamps only are allowed when sight is restricted to less than
50
> meters.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> 71 BGT

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Aug  8 11:03:45 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 13:03:45 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
Message-ID: <d18.115aa441.33eb5171@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/8/2007 9:58:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

It  confuses the heck out of me too. I've been meaning to rewire my throw
down  daily driver so the foglights come on with the sidelamps the way
God  intended them to. I've no concept who came up with the idea that
they had  to come on with the headlamps, but that's DOT for  you.



 
____________________________________


There is little logic to Federal rulings. Who on Earth would have thought  
that having both fog and headlights on at the same time would be at all  useful??
 
Things are better these days - my minivan has fog lights that come on with  
the side lights, and the starter just needs a touch and it goes ahead and 
starts  the engine - and if you hit it again once it is running, it doesn't operate 
- no  more grinding starters (no, I didn't do this, but someone else who 
shall remain  nameless did - and she won't do it again!).
 
Bill S.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed Aug  8 11:08:24 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 10:08:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <001101c7d9ab$ea66d030$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200708081008m18253852sffaff0afd713282b@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/8/07, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
> Hans:
>
> It confuses the heck out of me too. I've been meaning to rewire my throw
> down daily driver so the foglights come on with the sidelamps the way
> God intended them to. I've no concept who came up with the idea that
> they had to come on with the headlamps, but that's DOT for you.

Just look at how long it took before quartz-halogen headlights were
allowed, instead of sealed-beam units. Even now, I think the light
spread requirements produce poorer headlamps than people get in
Europe.

And if you think the DOT are just conservative, how on earth did they
allow those seat belts that latched in a loose position?

Simon

From schultejim at msn.com  Wed Aug  8 11:46:04 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 13:46:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] On the  road to Pocono
References: <20070808145943.CDBE6187BAE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV4B72DE100625D5D6AAAF0DBE70@phx.gbl>

Barney,
It would be fun and an honor to meet you and your son. I have followed your
posts and enjoy your insight into our hobby. I've sent an email to the
organizers to find out if we can enter or at least attend the car show. Our
other commitments prevent us from anything further that weekend. Hope to meet
you and see your MGA at Pocono Manor Saturday.
Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Barney Gaylord<mailto:barneymg at mgaguru.com>
  To: mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 10:52 AM
  Subject: [Mgs] On the road to Pocono


  On the road again!   Early Thursday morning (less than 24 hours from
  now)  my son Elliot and I will be taking the red MGA (with black
  trailer in tow) heading east from Naperville, IL.  The first day
  Thursday only) we will be traveling with a friend in a white MGA.  We
  have a short morning stop in the sticks off US-30 near Hanna, IN, to
  visit my brother.  We will be in Bowling Green, OH, momentarily in
  early afternoon at Snook's Dream Cars -
http://snooksdreamcars.com<http://snooksdreamcars.com/>
  By early evening we will be in a campground in eastern Ohio at OH 303
  and OH-57, just southwest of Cleveland.

  Friday we will be high-tailing it solo heading east on I-80 to arrive
  in Pocono Manor, PA, hopefully around 3 pm.  We will be grounded
  there from Friday evening to Sunday morning for the MG Drive In
  festivities. -
http://www.mgdriversclub.com/upcoming/drivein11.html<http://www.mgdriversclub
.com/upcoming/drivein11.html>

  Sunday we will be expressing it up I-380 and I-81 to Syracuse, NY,
  then west on I-90.  By mid afternoon we will be pitching tent at
  Niagara Falls Campground (Good Sam Park) -
  http://www.niagarafallscampground.net<http://www.niagarafallscampground.net
/>
  We intend to spend the rest of the day at the Falls, then back to the
  campground late night.

  Monday morning we expect to spend a little time on the Canadian side
  of the Falls, then head west on the QEW, C-2. C-403, C-401, arriving
  London, Ontario, by mid afternoon, checking into London/401 KOA. -
  http://koa.com/where/on/55210<http://koa.com/where/on/55210>
  Elliot visits a friend in London while I have time to kill.  Anyone
  in the neighborhood?

  Tuesday we head home via C-401 to Windsor/Detroit, then likely
  express on I-94 west through Michigan (unless something interesting
  can distract us), around the lake through Indiana and back into
  Illinois.  We expect to be back home by Tuesday evening.

  With a few side trips and a bit of run-around this might make about
  2000 miles in 6 days.  I should be able to check e-mail and BBS
  during the trip, likely late night daily.  Otherwise keep the
  messages short for a while.  See you on the road.

  Barney Gaylord
  1958 MGA with an attitude
  http://MGAguru.com<http://mgaguru.com/>
  _______________________________________________

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  8 11:49:21 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 10:49:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <501465.82247.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

"Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

I have noticed the serious problems with defective turn signals on many newer BMW and Mercedes cars. It makes even Lucas look dependable.

-----------------------
My Audi A4 seems to eat brake light bulbs, I've been through about a half-dozen in 4 years. The brakes, OTOH, feel almost brand new. Good trade-off, I guess....

My foglights also only work with the low-beams. One used to be able to code them to work with the parking lights, but only in pre-2003 A4's. 

I have one fog light in the rear, and an empty socket on the other side. I'm tempted to put a bulb in the empty socket, so I can scare tailgating drivers by putting on the rear fogs.......





      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Aug  8 15:02:13 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 16:02:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Another rebirth
Message-ID: <5B0F3730-7CDD-4653-8C5C-47B913B5EB9C@gmail.com>

My friend Tom in San Diego and his 15 year old are resurrecting his MG.

http://ktcatspost.blogspot.com/2007/08/mgb-comes-home.html

It's a '74 I believe.

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
77 MGB
99 OBS

From james.nazarian at gmail.com  Wed Aug  8 15:10:20 2007
From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 17:10:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
Message-ID: <006a01c7da00$884c85c0$6400a8c0@theendindeed>

A friend of mine has an '80 MGB with overdrive.  What oil should he put in
the transmission and overdrive?
 
thanks,
James

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Aug  8 16:10:43 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 17:10:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <9EAB6E94-2437-44BA-A78A-C0C49937908C@gmail.com>

You can't regulate stupidity.

On Aug 8, 2007, at 11:57 AM, Dodd, Kelvin wrote:

> Hans:
>
>
>
> Finally the DOT relented and we can finally get rear fog lights but  
> time
> after time I see idiots driving down the freeway at night in perfect
> weather with them on. Makes me mad enough to almost want to ram them.
>
> I hate the thought of more regulations and policing, but in cases such
> as this I come close to wishing for more enforcement.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Aug  8 16:12:55 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 15:12:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <9EAB6E94-2437-44BA-A78A-C0C49937908C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8745F0@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I guess you are correct.

You'd think with such a large gene pool that inbreeding isn't the
problem.



Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Root [mailto:ptrmgb at gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:11 PM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin
> Cc: Hans Duinhoven; Paul Hunt; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
>
> You can't regulate stupidity.
>
> On Aug 8, 2007, at 11:57 AM, Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
>
> > Hans:
> >
> >
> >
> > Finally the DOT relented and we can finally get rear fog lights but
> > time
> > after time I see idiots driving down the freeway at night in perfect
> > weather with them on. Makes me mad enough to almost want to ram
them.
> >
> > I hate the thought of more regulations and policing, but in cases
such
> > as this I come close to wishing for more enforcement.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Wed Aug  8 16:25:07 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 18:25:07 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
Message-ID: <c5a.17dc4bff.33eb9cc3@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/8/2007 3:13:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

I guess  you are correct.

You'd think with such a large gene pool that  inbreeding isn't the
problem.



 
____________________________________


I dunno Kelvin, a lot of the drivers out there seem to be stamped out with  
the same cookie cutter.
 
We see them on a local highway to a ski area - Whistler, where the 2010  
Olympics will be - in a line of traffic 20 km long and these guys are passing  one 
car at a time on darned near blind curves just so they can get to the end of  
the highway 2 minutes before they'd get there if they just sat in line.
 
And there is a school of government (I call it the 'Nannie' school of  
thought) that seems to think we are all helpless and need to be taken care of  from 
cradle to grave by Big Nannie.  So we get all these regulations and  inane 
signs saying not to get off the bus until it has stopped moving, don't  point 
loaded guns at your own (or anyone else's) head etc.
 
I'd like to think the average British car owner had more on the ball than  
their target group, but I've seen some pretty silly behavior over the  
years....some people even buy Reliant Robins - what can I say?
 
Bill

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  8 17:25:53 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 18:25:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
References: <02e001c7d84b$8a5a77c0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <000301c7da13$77bc2040$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

i just spent a few minutes raising it from 39.2 to 39.3%

we're way behind the rust rockets!!!!

help!!!  vote!!!!


> 
> 
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
> _______________________________________________
> sumton at sbcglobal.net
> 
> Edit your replies

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  8 17:38:56 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 16:38:56 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <006a01c7da00$884c85c0$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
Message-ID: <C2DFA220.12414%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Engine oil. Most people will tell you 20w50. I am using 30wt in that same
transmission, on the theory that multigrade is irrelevant to a transmission,
and breaks down faster (how often do you change your transmission oil?). It
probably really doesn't matter so long as you don't use synthetic, and you
don't use 80/90 wt gear oil.

But this question seems to have religious overtones, so I am preparing for
flames...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/8/07 2:10 PM, James Nazarian at james.nazarian at gmail.com wrote:

> A friend of mine has an '80 MGB with overdrive.  What oil should he put in
> the transmission and overdrive?
>  
> thanks,
> James

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Wed Aug  8 17:49:56 2007
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 19:49:56 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
Message-ID: <ccb.165f3828.33ebb0a4@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/8/2007 4:27:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

we're  way behind the rust rockets!!!!



Check again it's like 42+% to 39+% as of 4:45 PST
(I blew it and voted for the DB-5 lookalike..then found out it only has  like 
2% of the votes...I'm sorry!)
 
Albert Escalante



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  8 18:08:55 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 17:08:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8745F0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <945465.16197.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Part of the issue may be that getting a driving
license in the States is a trivial affair.  Just look
at the way most people drive.  Its a wonder we're not
all dead!  Perhaps one of our British members might
describe the process in England where one actually has
to learn how to drive resposibly before receiving a
license...

rick

--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> I guess you are correct.
> 
> You'd think with such a large gene pool that
> inbreeding isn't the
> problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  8 18:12:02 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 17:12:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <C2DFA220.12414%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <600768.70033.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

No flares.  You are right.  In fact, multi-viscosity
oils lubricate WORSE than single grade oil.  The
additives that provide the multi-vis effect (with
heat) is NOT a lubricant.

-rick
--- Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Engine oil. Most people will tell you 20w50. I am
> using 30wt in that same
> transmission, on the theory that multigrade is
> irrelevant to a transmission,
> and breaks down faster (how often do you change your
> transmission oil?). It
> probably really doesn't matter so long as you don't
> use synthetic, and you
> don't use 80/90 wt gear oil.
> 
> But this question seems to have religious overtones,
> so I am preparing for
> flames...
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 8/8/07 2:10 PM, James Nazarian at
> james.nazarian at gmail.com wrote:
> 
> > A friend of mine has an '80 MGB with overdrive. 
> What oil should he put in
> > the transmission and overdrive?
> >  
> > thanks,
> > James
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug  8 18:15:44 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 09:45:44 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <ccb.165f3828.33ebb0a4@aol.com>
References: <ccb.165f3828.33ebb0a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00C6FE95-441B-404C-A518-4BF71ABD75BA@erickson.on.net>

On 09/08/2007, at 9:19 AM, Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 8/8/2007 4:27:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> we're  way behind the rust rockets!!!!
>
>
>
> Check again it's like 42+% to 39+% as of 4:45 PST
> (I blew it and voted for the DB-5 lookalike..then found out it only  
> has  like
> 2% of the votes...I'm sorry!)
>


http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx


Well, I think I have just about done my bit.

I fought the good fight.

Work wants me to work now.

Vote early - vote often, guys.


:-)

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Wed Aug  8 19:32:42 2007
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 18:32:42 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <006a01c7da00$884c85c0$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
Message-ID: <006301c7da25$321fabd0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>

I'm running 30 wt non-detergent oil in mine.
Have logged over 15000 trouble free miles in the past 3 yrs.
Danny V.
'58 MGA daily driver
'76 MGB V6 project


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Nazarian" <james.nazarian at gmail.com>
To: "'MG List'" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 2:10 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil


>A friend of mine has an '80 MGB with overdrive.  What oil should he put in
> the transmission and overdrive?
> 
> thanks,
> James
> _______________________________________________
> dannyvarnado at cox.net
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ronking at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  8 22:26:23 2007
From: ronking at sbcglobal.net (Ron King)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 21:26:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
References: <945465.16197.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <036401c7da3d$71dd0980$6402a8c0@kingman>

I'd swear I saw a special on driving in Germany, and the process for getting 
a driver's license was 1 year of practice, and $1500.

Course, then again my memory isn't quite the same.

Ron
'71 MGB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>; "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch


> Part of the issue may be that getting a driving
> license in the States is a trivial affair.  Just look
> at the way most people drive.  Its a wonder we're not
> all dead!  Perhaps one of our British members might
> describe the process in England where one actually has
> to learn how to drive resposibly before receiving a
> license...
>
> rick
>
> --- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
>> I guess you are correct.
>>
>> You'd think with such a large gene pool that
>> inbreeding isn't the
>> problem.
>>
>>
>>
>> Kelvin Dodd
> _______________________________________________
> ronking at sbcglobal.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Aug  9 00:12:48 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 23:12:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Death Trap
In-Reply-To: <00C6FE95-441B-404C-A518-4BF71ABD75BA@erickson.on.net>
References: <ccb.165f3828.33ebb0a4@aol.com>
	<00C6FE95-441B-404C-A518-4BF71ABD75BA@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <40b437200708082312i2205dccewff0d1bcb5d19ec1a@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like we failed!

On 8/8/07, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
> On 09/08/2007, at 9:19 AM, Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 8/8/2007 4:27:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:
> >
> > we're  way behind the rust rockets!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Check again it's like 42+% to 39+% as of 4:45 PST
> > (I blew it and voted for the DB-5 lookalike..then found out it only
> > has  like
> > 2% of the votes...I'm sorry!)
> >
>
>
> http://www.redbullsoapboxusa.com/Seattle-2007/wildcard.aspx
>
>
> Well, I think I have just about done my bit.
>
> I fought the good fight.
>
> Work wants me to work now.
>
> Vote early - vote often, guys.
>
>
> :-)
> _______________________________________________
> simon.d.matthews at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug  9 00:28:13 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 08:28:13 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
References: <501465.82247.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002301c7da4e$76ad1f70$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

My previous 2000 built Audi A6 used to eat headlamps all the time.
But never the brake lamps. I had automatic gear, so that is the same with
yours I assume.
I drove over 100,000 miles in that car and it swallowed H1 headlamps all the
time.
I assume this came by the vibration of the 1.9 TDI diesel engine.

My current car 2006 VW Passat Variant 1.9 TDI (manual gear) did not consume
any lamp since new now being 1 year and 2 months old and 55,000 Km - ~ 40,000
miles.
The rear lights are very nice looking LED standard, so I expect none to
minimal failure at that point.
Besides the manual gear, I do not miss anything from the Audi - great car this
VW!

Cheers,

Hans

yes - still the 1971 BGT



  "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:


    I have noticed the serious problems with defective turn signals on many
newer BMW and Mercedes cars. It makes even Lucas look dependable.


  -----------------------
  My Audi A4 seems to eat brake light bulbs, I've been through about a
half-dozen in 4 years. The brakes, OTOH, feel almost brand new. Good
trade-off, I guess....

  My foglights also only work with the low-beams. One used to be able to code
them to work with the parking lights, but only in pre-2003 A4's.

  I have one fog light in the rear, and an empty socket on the other side. I'm
tempted to put a bulb in the empty socket, so I can scare tailgating drivers
by putting on the rear fogs.......






  Dan D
  Central NJ USA
  '76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
  '65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
  NAMGBR #5-2328
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
  http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug  9 00:43:13 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 08:43:13 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
References: <945465.16197.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003701c7da50$8ee2b710$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

In the Netherlands youngsters can get their driving license after passing 
several exams - only at the age of 18+. Even for mopeds a driver license is 
only haded over after passing a theoretical exam.
For towin a caravan etc. a special exam has to be apssed - also for trucks 
and buses.
But both theoretical and practice part of the lessons and exams contain 
topics about car technology, environment (i.e. how to drive the car most 
economically and least polluting) etc.
Until reaching the age of 24, young drivers are heavily punished when 
offending traffic rules including drinking and driving afterwards.
The driver license is bound to a so called point system.
Every serious traffic law violation will put negative points to the license 
and a ceratin level, the license will be taken from the bad driver.

Anyway this helps I think - it forms a threat in the freedom of movement 
(going back to public transport is not a nice thing) and by this will keep 
the behaviour within acceptable limits. (At least it does work with our 2 
sons).

Cheers,

Hans



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>; "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 2:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch


> Part of the issue may be that getting a driving
> license in the States is a trivial affair.  Just look
> at the way most people drive.  Its a wonder we're not
> all dead!  Perhaps one of our British members might
> describe the process in England where one actually has
> to learn how to drive resposibly before receiving a
> license...
>
> rick
>
> --- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
>> I guess you are correct.
>>
>> You'd think with such a large gene pool that
>> inbreeding isn't the
>> problem.
>>
>>
>>
>> Kelvin Dodd

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Thu Aug  9 01:02:55 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 00:02:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
Message-ID: <007601c7da53$505f44b0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I am putting my rebuilt transmission back together and once again I am stumped
on what gasket sealant to use.  There are several large paper gaskets with
large areas to seal between machined surfaces that are not perfectly smooth.
These are subject to constant oil baths and critical if I am going to try to
stop the usual oil leaks.  (I know, a hopeless cause, but I enjoy the
challenge!).

I just looked at the Permatex web site and there are dozens of products, all
sounding like they would do the job.  I would just like to get some opinions
about what products others have used successfully.  Some of the Permatex
products are to be used without a paper gasket and others are called
"sealants" for use with a gasket.  By the way, Permatex products are the only
ones that are sold by all the auto parts stores in my part of Los Angels.

Any suggestions, advise or opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ron Fine
61 BN7
66 MGB

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Thu Aug  9 01:56:41 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 08:56:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF687@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Obtaining a driving license in the UK is much like Hans described for
the Netherlands.  It wasn't easy when I did it 17 years ago (took me two
attempts), and it's got harder since.  Minimum age is 17, you have to
take a multiple-choice theory exam and a computer-based hazard
perception test before you can apply to take the practical exam (I never
did these, they are new since I took the test).  The practical exam
involves a 3/4 hour or so test driving around a variety of road types.
This includes parallel parking, 3-point turns, emergency stops,
roundabouts (what I failed on first time), hill starts (as long as
there's an appropriate slope near the test centre!), and so on.  You
have to take the test in a manual (stick-shift) car, or you are
restricted to automatics for the rest of your life unless you re-take
the test.

Of course you still see plenty of bad driving in the UK, but the bulk of
it I would classify as wilfully stupid, selfish, or over-exuberant,
rather than incompetance or inability to handle a car.  Incompetant
driving largely comes from our most senior citizens, old enough to have
acquired a license before testing was required, and refusing to
acknowledge that their physical faculties are no longer up to the task.


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug  9 02:07:59 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 09:07:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
References: <007601c7da53$505f44b0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <000301c7da5c$befbd510$0200a8c0@Three>

I'm a believer in old-fashioned, Hermetite Red that never actually 
completely sets.  I find that with all the silicone types they skin if not 
start to harden before you can get a decent layer on both sides of the 
gasket and the items reassembled.  I've recently some carbs attached with 
some blue silicone stuff and it had oozed inside in great gobbets and must 
have restricted the air flow by about 10%

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I am putting my rebuilt transmission back together and once again I am 
>stumped
> on what gasket sealant to use. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug  9 02:18:29 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 09:18:29 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <006a01c7da00$884c85c0$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
Message-ID: <006301c7da5e$d8ef2240$0200a8c0@Three>

The gearbox and OD share the oil (and indeed have the same filler, on the 
RHS of the gearbox casing on RB cars).  It's the same as for the engine i.e. 
whatever grade is appropriate for your climatic conditions.  I think BL knew 
what they were doing when they specified that.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>A friend of mine has an '80 MGB with overdrive.  What oil should he put in
> the transmission and overdrive?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug  9 02:14:30 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 09:14:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
References: <ce9.15dfd15c.33e371b4@aol.com><2ABDB1DC-3F0D-4D4A-AD10-CC362080BCA7@erickson.on.net>
	<20070808062727.GH2065@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <006201c7da5e$d8cddea0$0200a8c0@Three>

If they pump up that sounds more like air in the system, perhaps from 
boiling in your case.  I find it difficult to believe that the drums could 
wear down so fast that the pedal sinks, and also that pumping the pedal 
could 'compensate' for it.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Interesting. The reason that I want to install discs on my BGT is
> because after a few laps, the drums wear enough that I have to pump
> the brakes a couple times every time I need to brake to keep the pedal
> from sinking halfway to the floor. 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Aug  9 02:52:02 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 01:52:02 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
In-Reply-To: <007601c7da53$505f44b0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <007601c7da53$505f44b0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10708090152o44c86d3bv7704d606a5fdafdd@mail.gmail.com>

Hylomar is excellent at sealing large paper gaskets.  It is one of the few
products that will seal Old Jag cam cover gaskets.  Hylomar is available
from Mr. Gasket.
If you don't intend on disassembling it again 3M super weatherstrip adhesive
(yellow gorilla snot) is bullet proof if properly applied.  I did the tappet
covers on my B with them.  About 50,000 miles later I noticed a leak.  I
looked and found that one of the bolts had loosened up and fell out.  the
leak was from the bolt hole, not the gasket area.
Gasgachinch is also not too bad in sealing large paper gaskets.  Not as good
as the first two, but not bad.
Rick

On 8/9/07, Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> I am putting my rebuilt transmission back together and once again I am
> stumped
> on what gasket sealant to use.  There are several large paper gaskets with
> large areas to seal between machined surfaces that are not perfectly
> smooth.
> These are subject to constant oil baths and critical if I am going to try
> to
> stop the usual oil leaks.  (I know, a hopeless cause, but I enjoy the
> challenge!).
>
> I just looked at the Permatex web site and there are dozens of products,
> all
> sounding like they would do the job.  I would just like to get some
> opinions
> about what products others have used successfully.  Some of the Permatex
> products are to be used without a paper gasket and others are called
> "sealants" for use with a gasket.  By the way, Permatex products are the
> only
> ones that are sold by all the auto parts stores in my part of Los Angels.
>
> Any suggestions, advise or opinions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron Fine
> 61 BN7
> 66 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  9 05:47:16 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 04:47:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] fog lamps
In-Reply-To: <000a01c7da00$e84ddaa0$0f4d1645@normoffice>
Message-ID: <261978.40800.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Norm <nsippel at mindspring.com> wrote:   Message    Dan:
  
 New A4s also  automatically lock the doors like blue-hair GM products.  That one  "feature" was the coup de grace last year when we were car shopping.  After  eliminating all of the Japanese cars one after the other, we got down to an A4  & a 328i.  While the Audi gets slightly better fuel consumption &  with fwd, we could drive north in winter, I don't like being automatically  locked into my car.  Once the salesman said it wasn't re-programmable, we  bought the BMW in which that feature is programmable 4 different ways.   We've owned Audis before & never had lamp problems.  Must be another  new "feature."   BTW, love the 328.
  
 As for fogs with  low-beams - that makes them useless.  The entire idea with fog lights is to  send out a flat-topped, low-level beam that does NOT reflect off the fog  droplets as high or low-beams do.  Last car I had that I could run with  just parking & fog light was my first MGB - a '65 with Lucas Flamethrower  & Lucas Fog light.
  
 But, your comment  makes me curious.  With all of the features that can be driver-programmed  on the BMW, I wonder if fog/headlight interaction is one of  them.
  

--------------------------
Norm, I actually had to have the door locks programmed - the 'standard' for the 2004 model was that you had to lock the car yourself. With small children at the time, I preferred the auto locks. The dealer didn't charge me to program this. Re: the fogs, yes, I understand the whole issue of fogs being somewhat useless with the low beams.... The earlier version of the A4 (up until around 2003, I believe) could have the fogs programmed to work with the parking lights, and many enthusiast owners did this. Audi aparently changed either the wiring or the programming for the 2004 model year that prevents this. Bummer.

BTW, love the A4 ;-)

Dan D
'04 A4 1.8Tq MT-6
Central NJ USA

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  9 06:01:06 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 05:01:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <002301c7da4e$76ad1f70$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <117858.18857.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:       My previous 2000 built Audi A6 used to eat  headlamps all the time.
 But never the brake lamps. I had automatic gear, so  that is the same with yours I assume.
 I drove over 100,000 miles in that car and it  swallowed H1 headlamps all the time.
 I assume this came by the vibration of the 1.9 TDI  diesel engine.
  
 My current car 2006 VW Passat Variant 1.9 TDI  (manual gear) did not consume any lamp since new now being 1 year and 2 months  old and 55,000 Km - ~ 40,000 miles.
 The rear lights are very nice looking LED standard,  so I expect none to minimal failure at that point.
 Besides the manual gear, I do not miss anything  from the Audi - great car this VW!
  
-----------------------
My A4 is actually a six-speed manual, Hans.... I MUCH prefer manual over automatic transmissions..... But my Honda Odyssey minivan is an automatic, and a very nice 5-speed auto at that, with downshifts and all.....




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From menno.meijer at i-shirt.nl  Thu Aug  9 06:18:02 2007
From: menno.meijer at i-shirt.nl (menno.meijer at i-shirt.nl)
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2007 14:18:02 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] SU HS4 Lifting pin?
Message-ID: <1186661882.46bb05fa2e06d@webmail.eatserver.nl>

Gentlemen,

I'm trying to set the mixture of my SU carburettors correctly. The documentation
I have describes, in my words, the following behaviour:

- Press the lifing pin
- The following behaviour could be observed
  - RPM drops / engine stalls. (Too weak)
  - RPM increases and stays increased. (Too rich)
  - RPM increases shortly and then drops just above the level it had prior to
pressing the lifting pin. (Mixture correct)

Now my question: Do I have to press the lifting pin shortly then release it and
wait for the described behaviour? or is the described behaviour noticable for
the duration that I lift the lifting pin?

Thanks in advance,

Menno
'63 MGB

From riverside at cedar-rapids.net  Thu Aug  9 06:57:07 2007
From: riverside at cedar-rapids.net (riverside)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 07:57:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] SU HS4 Lifting pin?
References: <1186661882.46bb05fa2e06d@webmail.eatserver.nl>
Message-ID: <00f901c7da84$cb98de80$91d6fc04@your55e5f9e3d2>

This puzzles my feeble brain.
If we are already lean,  why would making the mixture richer (maybe that is 
not what really happpens, but it would seem the natural consequence of 
raising the needle without increasing
air flow) make the engine less "happy.
Could someone please explain this.. Thanks

art d
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <menno.meijer at i-shirt.nl>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 7:18 AM
Subject: [Mgs] SU HS4 Lifting pin?


> Gentlemen,
>
> I'm trying to set the mixture of my SU carburettors correctly. The 
> documentation
> I have describes, in my words, the following behaviour:
>
> - Press the lifing pin
> - The following behaviour could be observed
>  - RPM drops / engine stalls. (Too weak)
>  - RPM increases and stays increased. (Too rich)
>  - RPM increases shortly and then drops just above the level it had prior 
> to
> pressing the lifting pin. (Mixture correct)
>
> Now my question: Do I have to press the lifting pin shortly then release 
> it and
> wait for the described behaviour? or is the described behaviour noticable 
> for
> the duration that I lift the lifting pin?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Menno
> '63 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> riverside at cedar-rapids.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date: 8/5/2007 
> 4:16 PM

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Aug  9 07:20:36 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 09:20:36 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Driver Training (was Need info on original 1968-71 MGB
 fog lamp switch)
Message-ID: <d19.fd48fd6.33ec6ea4@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/08/2007 11:43:40 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
h.duinhoven at planet.nl writes:

In the  Netherlands youngsters can get their driving license after passing 
several  exams - only at the age of 18+. Even for mopeds a driver license is 
only  haded over after passing a theoretical exam.



 
____________________________________

Gee, here in Hongcouver, all you have to do is pay a driver examiner a  
'special' fee and avoid all the trouble of actually learning enough English to  
write the exam and take the driving test...:-)
 
To be fair, the driver examiners that were selling licenses to recent  
Chinese emigrants were fired - but they thought it politically inadvisable to do  
what I'd have done and retested (no rush, take a couple of years) ALL the  
emigrant applicants (from anywhere) that had been given a license in the  last 
couple of years.
 
Bill

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Aug  9 07:32:15 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 09:32:15 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
Message-ID: <cd6.16369888.33ec715f@aol.com>

In a message dated 09/08/2007 1:26:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

If they  pump up that sounds more like air in the system, perhaps from 
boiling in  your case.  I find it difficult to believe that the drums could 
wear  down so fast that the pedal sinks, and also that pumping the pedal 
could  'compensate' for it.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----  
> Interesting. The reason that I want to install discs on my BGT  is
> because after a few laps, the drums wear enough that I have to  pump
> the brakes a couple times every time I need to brake to keep the  pedal
> from sinking halfway to the floor. 



 
____________________________________

What it sounds like to me (only because I am intimately familiar with it)  is 
excessive end float on the front bearings.
 
This was a problem on the rear disc brake cars in particular including my  
Twincam and some early Jensen 541s. As you go through corners (hard) the hubs  
move back and forth enough to kick the pads back and you need to push them back 
 out before you get a nice hard pedal again. Not something you usually notice 
on  the street, as you rarely corner hard without braking.
 
The cure is to make sure end float is at minimum and to use your left foot  
to move the pistons out while you are still on the straight, ready for the next 
 braking area. Becomes second nature to a Twincam driver, but I hadn't heard 
of  much problem on an MGB. Fitting rear discs to the MGB might actually make 
the  problem worse, not better as then you'd have two ends with pistons to 
push back  into the calipers.....
 
 
Bill Spohn

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug  9 08:22:23 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 15:22:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Driver Training (was Need info on original 1968-71 MGB
 fog lamp switch)
References: <d19.fd48fd6.33ec6ea4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005d01c7da90$edb29cc0$0200a8c0@Three>

In Ireland if you fail your driving test twice you can then drive 
unaccompanied!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> In the  Netherlands youngsters can get their driving license after passing
> several  exams - only at the age of 18+. Even for mopeds a driver license 
> is
> only  haded over after passing a theoretical exam.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug  9 08:39:41 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 15:39:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] SU HS4 Lifting pin?
References: <1186661882.46bb05fa2e06d@webmail.eatserver.nl>
Message-ID: <008501c7da95$20b6c660$0200a8c0@Three>

You lift the *piston* 1/32" of an inch, you have to move the lifting pin 
more than this to lift the piston 1.32".  Unscrew or remove the plastic 
damper cap then you can get a better idea of how much you are lifting the 
piston.

You lift and hold the piston long enough to determine what the result is. 
If the mixture is weak the idle will drop straight away.  If it is rich the 
revs will rise and stay risen.  Correct mixture causes a *momentary* rise in 
revs, which lasts much less than a second.

If you haven't done it before, and particularly with HIF carbs, it can be 
difficult to detect the momentary rise.  You need to train your ear by 
weakening the mixture until it obviously drops when using the lifting pin, 
and richening it until it obviously rises and stays risen.  The correct 
mixture is somewhere between the two, and by going progressively less weak 
and less rich each time you will train your ear and get closer to the 
correct point.  But of course this is the fine adjustment, you should 
already have set the coarse adjustment by adjusting the jet to achieve the 
highest idle speed anyway.  At this point you may find you can alter the jet 
by as much as 1/8 turn in either direction and have little effect on revs, 
from this point adjusting the jet in *either* direction will cause the revs 
to drop, and this is where fine adjustment with the lifting pin comes in.

Whether raising the piston, and the needle out of the jet, while leaving the 
throttle butterfly at the same position causes the air-flow to speed up or 
slow down, the volume of air to increase or decrease, and the mixture to 
weaken or richen, and the fact that air flow changes speed faster than fuel 
droplets and what the various combinations of these have on idle speed is 
one of life's mysteries.  But it does what it does.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Now my question: Do I have to press the lifting pin shortly then release 
> it and
> wait for the described behaviour? or is the described behaviour noticable 
> for
> the duration that I lift the lifting pin?

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug  9 12:43:53 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 14:43:53 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
Message-ID: <d4a.ddcfa38.33ecba69@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/9/2007 1:55:03 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
r.gosling at penspen.com writes:

Obtaining a driving license in the UK is much like Hans described  for
the Netherlands.

Heck, a very high percentage of drivers in El Paso don't even have drivers
licences or insurance.  If they are stopped, they get a ticket, but then  are
allowed to drive away


Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From sammler at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug  9 14:31:18 2007
From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler")
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2007 16:31:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA
In-Reply-To: <467B00F7.3040000@bellsouth.net>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C5AF143@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<467ADF09.5080500@bellsouth.net>
	<DF3C752AE84CBC47BC86D6A8C8B2121907E6E1@mtsrv-ex004.mestekcorp.com>
	<467B00F7.3040000@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <46BB7996.30404@bellsouth.net>

After logging out look what displayed!

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Aug  9 14:46:25 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 15:46:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C5AF143@kb1.mossmotors.com><467ADF09.5080500@bellsouth.net><DF3C752AE84CBC47BC86D6A8C8B2121907E6E1@mtsrv-ex004.mestekcorp.com><467B00F7.3040000@bellsouth.net>
	<46BB7996.30404@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <020301c7dac6$5a3c27a0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<After logging out look what displayed!>>

Huh??

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Thu Aug  9 14:49:52 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 16:49:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C5AF143@kb1.mossmotors.com><467ADF09.5080500@bellsouth.net><DF3C752AE84CBC47BC86D6A8C8B2121907E6E1@mtsrv-ex004.mestekcorp.com><467B00F7.3040000@bellsouth.net>
	<46BB7996.30404@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <009901c7dac6$d58f8140$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

??????



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pat Harris - "sammler"" <sammler at bellsouth.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 16:31
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA


> After logging out look what displayed!

From sammler at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug  9 21:08:00 2007
From: sammler at bellsouth.net (Pat Harris - "sammler")
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2007 23:08:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA
In-Reply-To: <014801c7d8d2$56c150f0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <006301c7d8a2$6ff27250$6600a8c0@XPS410>
	<014801c7d8d2$56c150f0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <46BBD690.8010405@bellsouth.net>

When I logged out of my account today - look what I saw 
<http://bellsouthpwp.net/4/0/404mog/BoA.jpg>.

If you have the image below, don't bother with the link.

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Aug  9 21:12:05 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 22:12:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA
References: <006301c7d8a2$6ff27250$6600a8c0@XPS410><014801c7d8d2$56c150f0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46BBD690.8010405@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <007901c7dafc$3acbd880$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<If you have the image below, >>

If you are any sort of regular on this List OR had read the directions that
came with your "subscription" to the List, you would KNOW nobody is gonna see
an "image"!!

From pleask at shaw.ca  Thu Aug  9 21:56:34 2007
From: pleask at shaw.ca (Pat Leask)
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2007 20:56:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
Message-ID: <002701c7db02$72f058c0$6501a8c0@pat>

My 1800cc motor runs flat at a specific spot when accelerating and I've run
out of ideas.. HELP!

I know this is an MG list, but I have a 1964 TVR Grantura that runs a MGB
1800cc motor and trans. So I am appealing to your collective wisdom on this
problem if I may. I got this car about a year ago after it sat for 6 years
and was not driven and was 100% stock, never seen a DPO. I have "Spiffed" it
up, replaced all brakes and so forth and the motor idles very smooth and
strong.

The problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC SPOT where
it flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you can hear
and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There is a
"Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this, very
definitive.

Here is what I have done and can verify:

The timing is spot on
When I suck on the hose to the Dizzy I can see the plate advance
The shaft of the dizzy is not bent
There is good suction on the intake manifold
Changed spark plugs from new Champion to new Bosh (Told Champion can have
problems) at .025
Plugs are a nice colour, good mix of fuel/air
Carbs are rebuilt (new jets)
Needles are "MB" (standard)
Pots seem to rise and fall okay.. Not fully sure on this
Light oil in carb dash pots
New electric fuel pump
New points .015
New condenser (after a new one, thought defective but not)
New plug wires
New Lucas Sports Coil (Gold one) tried another coil same results
Gas tank cleaned, no obstruction in supply line


The only thing left I can think of is a Pertronix unit or different jet
needles. What really bugs me is the "Sweat spot" where it craps out on me
thoughts please?

Thanks, Pat
Victoria BC



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.10/943 - Release Date: 08/08/2007
5:38 PM

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Aug  9 23:08:56 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 01:08:56 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
Message-ID: <ce3.17a355a0.33ed4ce8@aol.com>

In a message dated 09/08/2007 8:57:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
pleask at shaw.ca writes:

The  problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC SPOT where
it  flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you can  hear
and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There  is a
"Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this,  very
definitive.



 
____________________________________


Annoying problems indeed. Some causes - worn cam lobes, damper oil wrong  
weight or too little (piston flutter), fuel pump runs out of steam - try a  
higher capacity pump at least temporarily to eliminate starvation as a  possibility.
 
Try #5 or #6 needles in it if you have a chance.  MB was not, AFAIK, a  
standard needle on the MGB and that could be a problem. Easy to check out  anyway.
 
Good luck.
 
Bill
ex 1963 TVR owner

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Fri Aug 10 01:47:36 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 08:47:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF68A@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

"Heck, a very high percentage of drivers in El Paso don't even have
drivers licences or insurance.  If they are stopped, they get a ticket,
but then  are allowed to drive away"

In the UK, if you drive a car that isn't insured, or isn't taxed, the
police have the power to impound and crush your car.  Bit more of an
incentive!


Richard & Sammy
  ________________________________________________________________________
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Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri Aug 10 02:53:42 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 10:53:42 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Driver Training (was Need info on original 1968-71 MGB
 fog lamp switch)
References: <d19.fd48fd6.33ec6ea4@aol.com>
	<005d01c7da90$edb29cc0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <003e01c7db2b$f433ca60$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

That's why I am not going to drive overthere!
We'll take our next holiday at France and hope to have less chance of weird 
traffic and bad rain.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Driver Training (was Need info on original 1968-71 MGB 
fog lamp switch)


> In Ireland if you fail your driving test twice you can then drive
> unaccompanied!
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> In the  Netherlands youngsters can get their driving license after 
>> passing
>> several  exams - only at the age of 18+. Even for mopeds a driver license
>> is
>> only  haded over after passing a theoretical exam. 

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri Aug 10 02:58:51 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 10:58:51 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
References: <d4a.ddcfa38.33ecba69@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004801c7db2c$ac1a09a0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Gotto avoid this town as well I asume.... At least driving there.
Overhere in NL the car keys are to be handed over to the police officer and 
the car will be "secured" at a police parking spot, when someone it held 
still by the police.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RampantNM at aol.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch


> In a message dated 8/9/2007 1:55:03 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> r.gosling at penspen.com writes:
>
> Obtaining a driving license in the UK is much like Hans described  for
> the Netherlands.
>
> Heck, a very high percentage of drivers in El Paso don't even have drivers
> licences or insurance.  If they are stopped, they get a ticket, but then 
> are
> allowed to drive away
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
> 63 TR4
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri Aug 10 03:05:49 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 11:05:49 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
References: <002701c7db02$72f058c0$6501a8c0@pat>
Message-ID: <005d01c7db2d$a501ac30$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Something with fuel starvation perhaps?
In your list I did not see you have replaced the fuel filter.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pat Leask" <pleask at shaw.ca>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 5:56 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem


> My 1800cc motor runs flat at a specific spot when accelerating and I've 
> run
> out of ideas.. HELP!
>
> I know this is an MG list, but I have a 1964 TVR Grantura that runs a MGB
> 1800cc motor and trans. So I am appealing to your collective wisdom on 
> this
> problem if I may. I got this car about a year ago after it sat for 6 years
> and was not driven and was 100% stock, never seen a DPO. I have "Spiffed" 
> it
> up, replaced all brakes and so forth and the motor idles very smooth and
> strong.
>
> The problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC SPOT 
> where
> it flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you can 
> hear
> and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There is a
> "Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this, very
> definitive.
>
> Here is what I have done and can verify:
>
> The timing is spot on
> When I suck on the hose to the Dizzy I can see the plate advance
> The shaft of the dizzy is not bent
> There is good suction on the intake manifold
> Changed spark plugs from new Champion to new Bosh (Told Champion can have
> problems) at .025
> Plugs are a nice colour, good mix of fuel/air
> Carbs are rebuilt (new jets)
> Needles are "MB" (standard)
> Pots seem to rise and fall okay.. Not fully sure on this
> Light oil in carb dash pots
> New electric fuel pump
> New points .015
> New condenser (after a new one, thought defective but not)
> New plug wires
> New Lucas Sports Coil (Gold one) tried another coil same results
> Gas tank cleaned, no obstruction in supply line
>
>
> The only thing left I can think of is a Pertronix unit or different jet
> needles. What really bugs me is the "Sweat spot" where it craps out on me
> thoughts please?
>
> Thanks, Pat
> Victoria BC

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 10 05:37:13 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 04:37:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA
In-Reply-To: <46BBD690.8010405@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <129376.26849.qm@web50908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

"Pat Harris - \"sammler\"" <sammler at bellsouth.net> wrote: When I logged out of my account today - look what I saw 
.

If you have the image below, don't bother with the link.
------------------------
I noticed that when I logged out of my BofA account as well last night.... Neat! BTW, the list strips away any attachments, so you can't send photos or files.



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Fri Aug 10 05:57:40 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 05:57:40 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
In-Reply-To: <002701c7db02$72f058c0$6501a8c0@pat>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12A9D@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I would make sure the carb pistons can travel up and down freely the
full travel. They should also drop down with a mild clunk at the bottom.
My guess is that the pistons stick or bind partway on their rise. My
67BGT had this problem at one time. Make sure the carb damper oil is
adequate and of a motor oil type and viscosity similar to the engine,
too light or too heavy can cause problems.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Pat Leask
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 9:57 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem

My 1800cc motor runs flat at a specific spot when accelerating and I've
run
out of ideas.. HELP!

I know this is an MG list, but I have a 1964 TVR Grantura that runs a
MGB
1800cc motor and trans. So I am appealing to your collective wisdom on
this
problem if I may. I got this car about a year ago after it sat for 6
years
and was not driven and was 100% stock, never seen a DPO. I have
"Spiffed" it
up, replaced all brakes and so forth and the motor idles very smooth and
strong.

The problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC SPOT
where
it flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you can
hear
and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There is
a
"Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this, very
definitive.

Here is what I have done and can verify:

The timing is spot on
When I suck on the hose to the Dizzy I can see the plate advance
The shaft of the dizzy is not bent
There is good suction on the intake manifold
Changed spark plugs from new Champion to new Bosh (Told Champion can
have
problems) at .025
Plugs are a nice colour, good mix of fuel/air
Carbs are rebuilt (new jets)
Needles are "MB" (standard)
Pots seem to rise and fall okay.. Not fully sure on this
Light oil in carb dash pots
New electric fuel pump
New points .015
New condenser (after a new one, thought defective but not)
New plug wires
New Lucas Sports Coil (Gold one) tried another coil same results
Gas tank cleaned, no obstruction in supply line


The only thing left I can think of is a Pertronix unit or different jet
needles. What really bugs me is the "Sweat spot" where it craps out on
me
thoughts please?

Thanks, Pat
Victoria BC

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Aug 10 07:07:10 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 08:07:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
In-Reply-To: <ce3.17a355a0.33ed4ce8@aol.com>
References: <ce3.17a355a0.33ed4ce8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46BC62FE.6020804@gmail.com>

WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 09/08/2007 8:57:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
> pleask at shaw.ca writes:
>
> The  problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC SPOT where
> it  flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you can  hear
> and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There  is a
> "Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this,  very
> definitive.
>
>
>
>  
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Annoying problems indeed. Some causes - worn cam lobes, damper oil wrong  
> weight or too little (piston flutter), fuel pump runs out of steam - try a  
> higher capacity pump at least temporarily to eliminate starvation as a  possibility.
>   

Pull the fuel line and let the fuel pump pump. If it does 1 imperial 
pint (20oz) in 1 minute. It's not
the pump.


>  
> Try #5 or #6 needles in it if you have a chance.  MB was not, AFAIK, a  
> standard needle on the MGB and that could be a problem. Easy to check out  anyway.
Needles are the first thing that I thought of.  You might check out 
<http://www.winsu.co.uk> for
needle usage. Or <http://www.joecurtoinc.com>


Second would be the points bouncing.

Is the little ground wire from the points plate to the dizzy body in 
good shape?


>  
> Good luck.
>  
> Bill
> ex 1963 TVR owner
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Fri Aug 10 08:23:32 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 09:23:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
References: <mailman.8286.1186745853.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005401c7db5a$1ade14d0$b219020a@ejrussell>

Which carb(s) does the motor have? I am not aware of needles "MB"
(but I see them in the Moss catalog listed for carb # AUD 52...).
See this page for HS4 & HIF carb needles:
http://www.teglerizer.com/mgstuff/SUcarbs.htm

Also, try the easy/cheap things first. The dashpots should have oil of
about the same viscosity as the engine. Not sure what you mean by
"light oil".

Make sure the accelerator cable is properly adjusted. With the pedal
floored the throttle plates should be wide open. If the cable is
misadjusted the throttle plates may not be fully open.

To test for free movement of the carb pistons, unscrew the dashpot
cap/damper. Hold it slightly cock-eyed and pull the dashpot up.
Release the dashpot (remove the cap/damper) and the dashpot should
drop down smoothly and hit the bridge with a slight 'click'. If it
does not, remove the top of the carb (aka air chamber) and make sure
the seating surfaces are clean. Replace the top and tighten the screws
evenly. Try again with the screws just barely snug. If it is better,
tighten the screws evenly and test again.

If the dashpot will not drop smoothly after the above, remove the
cover and look inside for evidence of contact - abrasion/scratches.
Gently polish out any scratches - trying not to remove excess
material.

Finally, I once thought I had a fuel pump problem in my MGA, it'd
accelerate fine up to a certain speed but then wouldn't go any faster.
Turns out the AIR filters were so dirty they were restricting intake
air flow! (shame on me...)

Finally #2, how about the float bowl needles? If they are sticking or
partially clogged they'd limit fuel flow. Check float height while you
are checking the float needles.
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/su_carb.html

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 

> I have a 1964 TVR Grantura that runs a MGB 1800cc motor and trans.
>
> The problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC
> SPOT where
> it flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you
> can hear
> and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There
> is a
> "Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this, very
> definitive.

> Needles are "MB" (standard)
> Light oil in carb dash pots

From guinness at stclegal.com  Fri Aug 10 07:49:33 2007
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 08:49:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Dual Gauge Needles
Message-ID: <46BC6CED.9090100@stclegal.com>

Every home mechanic's worst nightmare.  I am restoring my MGA dual 
oil/water gauge.  I  painted the needles and left them in the kitchen on 
a paper towel to dry while the spouse was out.  When I came back, I 
discovered that she had thrown the paper towels and needles away in a 
cleaning binge that included the refrigerator's contents.  Picking 
through the trash didn't find them.  Does anyone have an extra needle or 
two lying around that they are willing to sell?  I assume there is no 
commercial source for them.
-- 
Robert Guinness

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 10 08:03:57 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 15:03:57 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
References: <mailman.8286.1186745853.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<005401c7db5a$1ade14d0$b219020a@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <004801c7db58$394310d0$0200a8c0@Three>

Not all carbs have the spring clip that attaches the damper to the main 
piston and allows this, and even when they do they can pull out anyway.  A 
finger in the intake with the filters removed should do the same thing.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> To test for free movement of the carb pistons, unscrew the dashpot
> cap/damper. Hold it slightly cock-eyed and pull the dashpot up.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 10 08:02:10 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 15:02:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Dual Gauge Needles
References: <46BC6CED.9090100@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <004701c7db58$391f5c30$0200a8c0@Three>

Only attached to gauges ... unless you speak very nicely to a repairer.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  Does anyone have an extra needle or 
> two lying around that they are willing to sell?  I assume there is no 
> commercial source for them.

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Fri Aug 10 08:18:53 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 07:18:53 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] car factoid
Message-ID: <s6bc116f.056@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

The Chicago Tribune reports that while GM (NYSE:GM ) lost $146 on every
car it sold last year, Toyota (NYSE:TM ) made a profit of $3,668. 

From jbaustian at cox.net  Fri Aug 10 09:09:50 2007
From: jbaustian at cox.net (Jim Baustian)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 10:09:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration Problem
Message-ID: <C6AD67C7-D326-4A9C-8930-C6C947685D45@cox.net>

This condition can be caused by incorrect float levels. 

From jello at ida.net  Fri Aug 10 09:48:13 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 09:48:13 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] car factoid
In-Reply-To: <s6bc116f.056@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
References: <s6bc116f.056@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <1461.209.180.80.45.1186760893.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

Obligatory MG content.....Lotus - a car company that used to use MG
engines in some of their production cars (such as the midget engine in the
lotus 11) now uses a Toyota motor in their exige/elise line.

> The Chicago Tribune reports that while GM (NYSE:GM ) lost $146 on every
> car it sold last year, Toyota (NYSE:TM ) made a profit of $3,668.
> _______________________________________________
> jello at ida.net

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Aug 10 09:57:31 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 11:57:31 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] car factoid
Message-ID: <cf9.1723f002.33ede4eb@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/10/2007 8:48:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jello at ida.net writes:

Obligatory MG content.....Lotus - a car company that used to use  MG
engines in some of their production cars (such as the midget engine in  the
lotus 11) now uses a Toyota motor in their exige/elise  line.



 
____________________________________


Actually they didn't. Use the MG engine in the Lotus 11, that is. They used  
a Ford engine in the non-race model while using the Coventry Climax engine in  
the competition versions.
 
You must be thinking about the Lotus 7 which used a 948 and a very few  1098 
(from 1963 they went all Ford). The engines didn't come from MGs -  home 
market cars used A35 engines while export cars got Austin Healey Bugeye  motors.
 
Very sensible move to Toyota, I should think.
 
Bill

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Aug  9 09:42:24 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2007 11:42:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.co
  m>
References: <001101c7d9ab$ea66d030$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87451A@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <E1IJX1g-0004Go-6B@epsilon.look.ca>

Kelvin,

Both BMW and Mercedes have fallen into the "just like other cars" 
category.   They churn them out now in mass production catering for 
the masses.  Mercedes used to be rare when I had them but now they 
are all over the place!

At 12:57 PM 8/8/2007, Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
>Hans:
>
>It confuses the heck out of me too. I've been meaning to rewire my throw
>down daily driver so the foglights come on with the sidelamps the way
>God intended them to. I've no concept who came up with the idea that
>they had to come on with the headlamps, but that's DOT for you.
>
>But then I'm also astonished at the complete lack of thought shown by
>some drivers in America.
>
>For many years I was furious that the DOT would not allow rear fog lamps
>on US cars as they were determined to be hazardous if used incorrectly.
>After driving in the UK, I was sold on how effective they were.
>
>Finally the DOT relented and we can finally get rear fog lights but time
>after time I see idiots driving down the freeway at night in perfect
>weather with them on. Makes me mad enough to almost want to ram them.
>
>I hate the thought of more regulations and policing, but in cases such
>as this I come close to wishing for more enforcement.
>
>Seriously, I've come to the conclusion that it's a good thing brake
>lights are automatic otherwise it would be carnage out there.
>
>I have noticed the serious problems with defective turn signals on many
>newer BMW and Mercedes cars. It makes even Lucas look dependable.
>
>Kelvin Dodd
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Hans Duinhoven [mailto:h.duinhoven at planet.nl]
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 4:05 AM
> > To: Dodd, Kelvin; Paul Hunt; mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Need info on original 1968-71 MGB fog lamp switch
> >
> > Hey Kelvin,
> >
> > I wonder what theory is behind this regulation.
> > In the Netherlands it is not allowed to have headlamps on with fog
>lamps.
> > Fog lamps are to be switched on with sidelights only.
> > Rear fog lamps only are allowed when sight is restricted to less than
>50
> > meters.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Hans
> >
> > 71 BGT
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Aug 10 10:13:25 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 09:13:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
In-Reply-To: <007601c7da53$505f44b0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87481C@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Ron:

The test glob of Graco Hylomar (221-556) is still putty like in
consistancy, which agrees with the manufacturer's statement for
operating characteristics.

Thin smears feel dry to the touch, but the thicker areas can be easily
moved around. The consistancy feels sorta like warm starburst candy if
that helps. Don't know if you ever tried smushing starburst candy
together as a kid.
Personally, I was in the UK and they were called "Opal Fruits".  Made to
make your mouth water!

Sorry, got into a digression.


Back to recommendations.

I used to use Gasketcinch type products (setting contact rubber
adhesive) on gaskets that did not have thermal expansion issues such as
engine front and back plates, the joints would be very leakproof but
disassembly and cleanup were a real problem. Now the only place I use
this type of material is gluing the valve cover gasket to the rocker
cover. I grease the other mating surface then make sure not to
overtighten and crush the gasket.

I'm now using Wellseal non setting compound on all thin paper gaskets
and have been using UK sourced Hylomar on areas that need some form of
gap filler such as the rear main area of oil pan gaskets and V8 intake
shim gaskets. On the next build I'll give this Graco Hylomar a try since
it's acting like the Jaguar stuff I have been using.

I've never really had problems sealing transmissions as the paper
gaskets just colored with sealant do the job if you are careful to
remove burrs from the mating surfaces.





Kelvin Dodd
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine
> Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 12:03 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
>
> I am putting my rebuilt transmission back together and once again I am
> stumped
> on what gasket sealant to use.  There are several large paper gaskets
with
> large areas to seal between machined surfaces that are not perfectly
> smooth.
> These are subject to constant oil baths and critical if I am going to
try
> to
> stop the usual oil leaks.  (I know, a hopeless cause, but I enjoy the
> challenge!).
>
> I just looked at the Permatex web site and there are dozens of
products,
> all
> sounding like they would do the job.  I would just like to get some
> opinions
> about what products others have used successfully.  Some of the
Permatex
> products are to be used without a paper gasket and others are called
> "sealants" for use with a gasket.  By the way, Permatex products are
the
> only
> ones that are sold by all the auto parts stores in my part of Los
Angels.
>
> Any suggestions, advise or opinions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron Fine
> 61 BN7
> 66 MGB

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 10 10:22:54 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 09:22:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Dual Gauge Needles
In-Reply-To: <46BC6CED.9090100@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <933755.94629.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

"Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com> wrote: Every home mechanic's worst nightmare.  I am restoring my MGA dual 
oil/water gauge.  I  painted the needles and left them in the kitchen on 
a paper towel to dry while the spouse was out.  When I came back, I 
discovered that she had thrown the paper towels and needles away in a 
cleaning binge that included the refrigerator's contents.  Picking 
through the trash didn't find them.  Does anyone have an extra needle or 
two lying around that they are willing to sell?  I assume there is no 
commercial source for them.
-- 
Robert, how about contacting some of the gauge rebuilders like Nisonger or Mo-Ma?




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 10 11:20:40 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 10:20:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
In-Reply-To: <002701c7db02$72f058c0$6501a8c0@pat>
Message-ID: <C2E1EC78.124D2%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

It would help if you gave us an indication as to the RPM at which this
occurred...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 8/9/07 8:56 PM, Pat Leask at pleask at shaw.ca wrote:

> My 1800cc motor runs flat at a specific spot when accelerating and I've run
> out of ideas.. HELP!
> 
> I know this is an MG list, but I have a 1964 TVR Grantura that runs a MGB
> 1800cc motor and trans. So I am appealing to your collective wisdom on this
> problem if I may. I got this car about a year ago after it sat for 6 years
> and was not driven and was 100% stock, never seen a DPO. I have "Spiffed" it
> up, replaced all brakes and so forth and the motor idles very smooth and
> strong.
> 
> The problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC SPOT where
> it flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you can hear
> and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There is a
> "Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this, very
> definitive.
> 
> Here is what I have done and can verify:
> 
> The timing is spot on
> When I suck on the hose to the Dizzy I can see the plate advance
> The shaft of the dizzy is not bent
> There is good suction on the intake manifold
> Changed spark plugs from new Champion to new Bosh (Told Champion can have
> problems) at .025
> Plugs are a nice colour, good mix of fuel/air
> Carbs are rebuilt (new jets)
> Needles are "MB" (standard)
> Pots seem to rise and fall okay.. Not fully sure on this
> Light oil in carb dash pots
> New electric fuel pump
> New points .015
> New condenser (after a new one, thought defective but not)
> New plug wires
> New Lucas Sports Coil (Gold one) tried another coil same results
> Gas tank cleaned, no obstruction in supply line
> 
> 
> The only thing left I can think of is a Pertronix unit or different jet
> needles. What really bugs me is the "Sweat spot" where it craps out on me
> thoughts please?
> 
> Thanks, Pat
> Victoria BC
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.10/943 - Release Date: 08/08/2007
> 5:38 PM

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Aug 10 11:30:19 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 13:30:19 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
Message-ID: <c9f.1159c909.33edfaab@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/10/2007 10:27:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes:

It would  help if you gave us an indication as to the RPM at which  this
occurred...



 
____________________________________


Yeah, come to think of it a flat spot at 3000 would have a different cause  
than one at 6500....:-)
 
Bill

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 10 11:28:51 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 12:28:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Dual Gauge Needles - revenge
References: <933755.94629.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002401c7db74$0fcc6050$8115a8c0@Garage.local>

leave something in the oven "to dry"  <grin>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan DiBiase" <d_dibiase at yahoo.com>
To: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com>; "MG List" 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Dual Gauge Needles


> "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness at stclegal.com> wrote: Every home mechanic's 
> worst nightmare.  I am restoring my MGA dual
> oil/water gauge.  I  painted the needles and left them in the kitchen on
> a paper towel to dry while the spouse was out.  When I came back, I
> discovered that she had thrown the paper towels and needles away in a
> cleaning binge that included the refrigerator's contents.  Picking
> through the trash didn't find them.  Does anyone have an extra needle or
> two lying around that they are willing to sell?  I assume there is no
> commercial source for them.
> -- 
> Robert, how about contacting some of the gauge rebuilders like Nisonger or 
> Mo-Ma?

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Fri Aug 10 11:38:28 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 13:38:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Dual Gauge Needles - revenge
In-Reply-To: <002401c7db74$0fcc6050$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
References: <933755.94629.qm@web50904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<002401c7db74$0fcc6050$8115a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <000501c7db75$434b1880$c9e14980$@com>

Adele was a bit miffed when she found the top of the Solex for the
Land-Rover heating in the oven to correct the warp. She still doesn't know
about all the parts that worked their way through the dish washer (or
doesn't want me to know she knows). But she knows enough not to through
anything away :-)

When we started dating, she wanted to know why there was a Johnson 35 in
pieces in my kitchen. I can't believe that I had to explain that the vinyl
was easier to work on than the carpet.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+steve=coastaldatasystems.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Oliver
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 1:29 PM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Dual Gauge Needles - revenge

leave something in the oven "to dry"  <grin>

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Fri Aug 10 13:57:06 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 14:57:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] BoA - MGA
In-Reply-To: <46BBD690.8010405@bellsouth.net>
References: <006301c7d8a2$6ff27250$6600a8c0@XPS410>
	<014801c7d8d2$56c150f0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46BBD690.8010405@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <46BCC312.1030704@gmail.com>

Pat Harris - "sammler" wrote:
> When I logged out of my account today - look what I saw 
> <http://bellsouthpwp.net/4/0/404mog/BoA.jpg>.
>   
> Egad! It's one of those reptilian aliens David Icke talks about!!
>
> -The Roxter
> --

From jello at ida.net  Fri Aug 10 15:07:30 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 15:07:30 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] car factoid
In-Reply-To: <cf9.1723f002.33ede4eb@aol.com>
References: <cf9.1723f002.33ede4eb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3839.209.180.80.45.1186780050.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

Thanks for the correction.  I guess it was only the US's Westfield version
of the Lotus 11 that got a 1275 A series motor.  And the motor in the
westfield  - being almost a kit car - was kind of up for grabs.

Phil Bates
> In a message dated 8/10/2007 8:48:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> jello at ida.net writes:
>
> Obligatory MG content.....Lotus - a car company that used to use  MG
> engines in some of their production cars (such as the midget engine in
> the
> lotus 11) now uses a Toyota motor in their exige/elise  line.
>
>
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Actually they didn't. Use the MG engine in the Lotus 11, that is. They
> used
> a Ford engine in the non-race model while using the Coventry Climax engine
> in
> the competition versions.
>
> You must be thinking about the Lotus 7 which used a 948 and a very few
> 1098
> (from 1963 they went all Ford). The engines didn't come from MGs -  home
> market cars used A35 engines while export cars got Austin Healey Bugeye
> motors.
>
> Very sensible move to Toyota, I should think.
>
> Bill
> _______________________________________________
> jello at ida.net
>
> Edit your replies

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Fri Aug 10 15:24:53 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 17:24:53 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] car factoid
Message-ID: <cfa.16afe331.33ee31a5@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/10/2007 2:07:36 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jello at ida.net writes:

Thanks  for the correction.  I guess it was only the US's Westfield version
of  the Lotus 11 that got a 1275 A series motor.  And the motor in  the
westfield  - being almost a kit car - was kind of up for  grabs.



 
____________________________________


I saw one replica Lotus 11 that had a Mazda RX-7 engine fitted and a plaque  
on the side that called it a 'Rotus'......
 
Bill

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Aug 10 15:37:01 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 14:37:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] car factoid
In-Reply-To: <3839.209.180.80.45.1186780050.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8748C7@kb1.mossmotors.com>

The venerable A series engines did make it into a number of Lotus 11s
either as owner installs in kit supplied form or as cheaper replacements
when the Climax went bang.

In the UK the Elise started out with the Rover K engine, so at least the
heritage continues.

On another note, the barn storming Exige featured in the television "Top
Gear" shootout against a missile equipped helicopter was specially
fitted with a supercharged Honda engine. Guess where the supercharger
came from?

Hint: The same place the UK version of the Ariel Atom got theirs from.


Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Phil Bates
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 2:08 PM
> To: WSpohn4 at aol.com
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] car factoid
>
> Thanks for the correction.  I guess it was only the US's Westfield
version
> of the Lotus 11 that got a 1275 A series motor.  And the motor in the
> westfield  - being almost a kit car - was kind of up for grabs.
>
> Phil Bates
> > In a message dated 8/10/2007 8:48:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > jello at ida.net writes:
> >
> > Obligatory MG content.....Lotus - a car company that used to use  MG
> > engines in some of their production cars (such as the midget engine
in
> > the
> > lotus 11) now uses a Toyota motor in their exige/elise  line.

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 10 15:58:50 2007
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 16:58:50 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
Message-ID: <001001c7db99$a2c70660$6401a8c0@DELL>

About 2 weeks ago I put my freshly rebuilt engine that was done by a machine
shop back in the car.  I started to hook up the ancillaries and found that I
had a problem.

The machine shop had put the oil line fitting in backwards that  is towards
the rear of the engine.  Normally this fitting takes a 1" socket however there
is a slight factory bulge in the metal line not allowing the socket to slip
over.

Does any one have a suggestion on what to do other than pulling the engine out
again and taking off the back plate?

Thanks,

Craig

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Aug 10 16:07:40 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 15:07:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
In-Reply-To: <001001c7db99$a2c70660$6401a8c0@DELL>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8748DC@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Craig:

Please clarify.

What type of engine is this?

Please describe exactly which fitting you are referring to.


Thanks



Kelvin Dodd




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Straub
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 2:59 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
>
> About 2 weeks ago I put my freshly rebuilt engine that was done by a
> machine
> shop back in the car.  I started to hook up the ancillaries and found
that
> I
> had a problem.
>
> The machine shop had put the oil line fitting in backwards that  is
> towards
> the rear of the engine.  Normally this fitting takes a 1" socket
however
> there
> is a slight factory bulge in the metal line not allowing the socket to
> slip
> over.
>
> Does any one have a suggestion on what to do other than pulling the
engine
> out
> again and taking off the back plate?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 10 17:06:57 2007
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 18:06:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
References: <001001c7db99$a2c70660$6401a8c0@DELL>
Message-ID: <000801c7dba3$26bc3810$6401a8c0@DELL>

The engine is a 1973 MGB 1800cc

Thanks,

Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
To: <>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:58 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!


> About 2 weeks ago I put my freshly rebuilt engine that was done by a 
> machine
> shop back in the car.  I started to hook up the ancillaries and found that 
> I
> had a problem.
>
> The machine shop had put the oil line fitting in backwards that  is 
> towards
> the rear of the engine.  Normally this fitting takes a 1" socket however 
> there
> is a slight factory bulge in the metal line not allowing the socket to 
> slip
> over.
>
> Does any one have a suggestion on what to do other than pulling the engine 
> out
> again and taking off the back plate?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
> _______________________________________________
> craigstraub at sbcglobal.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 10 17:34:19 2007
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 18:34:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8748FB@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <000601c7dba6$f9cc2c30$6401a8c0@DELL>

Yes, that is the location.  The thread is the same in in either direction. 
I just did not catch it until after the engine was installed.

Thanks,

Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
To: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 6:18 PM
Subject: RE: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!


Ok thanks, got the motor.


Is this the oil cooler line fitting at the back of the block just to the
left and above the distributor?


I'm confused that you say the fitting is in backwards. Not sure how this
could happen.

Need more input.







Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Straub
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:07 PM
> To: > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
>
> The engine is a 1973 MGB 1800cc
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <>
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:58 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
>
>
> > About 2 weeks ago I put my freshly rebuilt engine that was done by a
> > machine
> > shop back in the car.  I started to hook up the ancillaries and
found
> that
> > I
> > had a problem.
> >
> > The machine shop had put the oil line fitting in backwards that  is
> > towards
> > the rear of the engine.  Normally this fitting takes a 1" socket
however
> > there
> > is a slight factory bulge in the metal line not allowing the socket
to
> > slip
> > over.
> >
> > Does any one have a suggestion on what to do other than pulling the
> engine
> > out
> > again and taking off the back plate?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Craig
> > _______________________________________________
> > craigstraub at sbcglobal.net
> >
> > Edit your replies
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 10 17:52:06 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 16:52:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
In-Reply-To: <000601c7dba6$f9cc2c30$6401a8c0@DELL>
Message-ID: <C2E24836.12518%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

I don't really understand the problem, either. Why can't you remove the
fitting? If a socket doesn't fit, how about an open-end wrench, or a
crowsfoot?


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/10/07 4:34 PM, Craig Straub at craigstraub at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Yes, that is the location.  The thread is the same in in either direction.
> I just did not catch it until after the engine was installed.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Craig
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
> To: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 6:18 PM
> Subject: RE: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
> 
> 
> Ok thanks, got the motor.
> 
> 
> Is this the oil cooler line fitting at the back of the block just to the
> left and above the distributor?
> 
> 
> I'm confused that you say the fitting is in backwards. Not sure how this
> could happen.
> 
> Need more input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
>> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Straub
>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:07 PM
>> To: > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
>> 
>> The engine is a 1973 MGB 1800cc
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Craig Straub" <craigstraub at sbcglobal.net>
>> To: <>
>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:58 PM
>> Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
>> 
>> 
>>> About 2 weeks ago I put my freshly rebuilt engine that was done by a
>>> machine
>>> shop back in the car.  I started to hook up the ancillaries and
> found
>> that
>>> I
>>> had a problem.
>>> 
>>> The machine shop had put the oil line fitting in backwards that  is
>>> towards
>>> the rear of the engine.  Normally this fitting takes a 1" socket
> however
>>> there
>>> is a slight factory bulge in the metal line not allowing the socket
> to
>>> slip
>>> over.
>>> 
>>> Does any one have a suggestion on what to do other than pulling the
>> engine
>>> out
>>> again and taking off the back plate?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Craig
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> craigstraub at sbcglobal.net

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Fri Aug 10 18:13:01 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 17:13:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
In-Reply-To: <C2E24836.12518%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874918@kb1.mossmotors.com>

We corresponded off list.

The rear oil line fitting has been installed upside down, so the long
tube is sticking out the block. He can't put a socket on it and there is
very little room to get a wrench in between the fitting and the engine
back plate.

It is a tough situation and the best I could come up with was to cut and
extend a socket with some steel tube.

Kelvin.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:52 PM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
>
> I don't really understand the problem, either. Why can't you remove
the
> fitting? If a socket doesn't fit, how about an open-end wrench, or a
> crowsfoot?
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 10 18:57:32 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 19:57:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Any Listers Near Tacoma WA?
Message-ID: <011301c7dbb2$9a936100$6401a8c0@Larry>

Gentlemen,

A very good friend of mine has a son attending college in Tacoma, WA.  While
his son was doing some research in Budapest, someone stole his car from in
front of the home of one of his professor's.  His prof was taking care of the
car while he was overseas.

Anyhow, this friend of mine, who is also a prof/author/lecturer type in
Indiana and who knows absolutely nothing about cars, needs to get a new car
for his kid over on the left coast.  The problem is that his kid knows even
less about cars.

Is there anybody in the Tacoma area who can hold his hand and make sure he
doesn't get ripped off by an unscrupulous seller?  He really is a good kid,
incredibly bright like his father, but totally clueless about cars.

Junior is presently in Utah doing more research before returning to classes in
Tacoma for the fall semester.

Can anybody help?  I'll be talking to his dad on Sunday and can get more
details then.

Let me know.  And thanks.



Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Aug 10 20:08:17 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 22:08:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Springs
Message-ID: <E1IJgWn-0000eX-V1@epsilon.look.ca>

Gurus,

I need some advice on my MGB GT V8 (1970 body) ride height.  My front 
measures 12.5" and rear 13" - from centre of hub to bottom of chrome 
trim.  I measured the clearance to the bottom of the sill panel 
(lowest bodywork) and it is 5.5".    The book says the GT V8 should 
have 4.5" clearance so am I high?....or do they measure to somewhere 
else like the exhaust ???  I have 185/70/14 tyres

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 10 22:59:43 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 21:59:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C87481C@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <000b01c7dbd4$72ad7af0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

This may be more information than anyone really wants to know about Hylomar 
so be forewarned.


Now that I have used it, I don't think the Hylomar that I bought from Moss 
last week is the same formula as I was use to using from Permatex.  The 
original Permatex version of Hylomar did not skim over.  I have an old tube 
of the original Permatex and the stuff that has oozed out of the tube is 
still wet and sticky after being exposed to air for quite some time.  The 
Moss Hylomar (distributed by Valco Cincinnati) seems to skim over quickly.

I did a little research on line tonight.  Hylomar is a trade marked named 
for many products manufactured HYLOMAR LTD, in Wigan, England.  This company 
in England claims to manufacture the original Hylomar which was previously 
sold in the USA by Permatex as "Hylomar HPF".   Valco Cincinnati is listed 
as one of the USA distributors of Hylomar products on the Hylomar LTD web 
site.  There are other USA distributors which apparently operate under 
different companies, including Hylomar USA, Inc. who distributed through 
Lub-O-seal Co, Inc. in Texas.

There are several different formula for sealants using the Hylomar name, 
including Hylomar AeroGrade, Hylomar AeroGrade Ultra,  Hylomar Universal 
Blue, Hylomar Racing Formula, and Hylomar Advanced Formula.   Check out the 
web site www.hylomar-usa.com

Also look at www.hylomar.com   which is the web page for the manufacture in 
England.  Their web page FAQ clearly states that they have had trouble 
getting it distributed in the USA after Permatex dropped their Hylomar HPF. 
(Permatex was acquired by ITW and the Hylomar product line was dropped.)

Valco Cincinnati packaging is different from the packaging shown on the 
Hylomar-USA web site.   I can't know for sure, but, I believe the Hylomar 
distributed by Valco (Moss Motors) is called "Hylomar Universal Blue" on the 
web site of the manufacture in England.  (Not really sure but it is 
different from the old Permatex Hylomar).  The manufacture states that the 
original Permatex HPF is actually "Hylomar Advanced Formula" which is 
solvent free.

So, I am now looking for a retail seller of Hylomar Advanced Formula 
manufactured by Hylomar, LTD in Wigan, England.

Ron

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Sat Aug 11 08:05:53 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 09:05:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874918@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c7dc20$bd12d260$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

I don't know the size of the opening, but if you go to a plumbers supply 
store, they have tools to remove pieces of broken pipe.  It fits inside the 
pip and using a camlike assembly that expands when turned.  It grips the 
inside of the pipe and allows you to remove it.  Maybe they have one snall 
enough. 

From jello at ida.net  Sat Aug 11 13:11:57 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 13:11:57 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] 25D/45D compatibility??
Message-ID: <46BE09FD.50504@ida.net>

Does anyone know if I can put a 25D distributor on a car that has a 
45D????  In other words, will the shaft fit and the drive dog line up?

Phil Bates

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 11 13:20:30 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 12:20:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] 25D/45D compatibility??
In-Reply-To: <46BE09FD.50504@ida.net>
Message-ID: <164356.90477.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Yes. :-)
  

Phil Bates <jello at ida.net> wrote:
  Does anyone know if I can put a 25D distributor on a car that has a 
45D???? In other words, will the shaft fit and the drive dog line up?

Phil Bates
_______________________________________________
leylandauto at yahoo.com

Edit your replies
       
---------------------------------
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From craigstraub at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 11 14:36:06 2007
From: craigstraub at sbcglobal.net (Craig Straub)
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2007 15:36:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874918@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <001701c7dc57$3e635070$6401a8c0@DELL>

Hi list,

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.  I had to go to the hardware store early 
this morning.  One of the guys there is a hot rod nut and we started talking 
about the problem.  I had a spare oil fitting from my race car that I took 
along.

What I ended up doing was getting a brass 1/2" coupler.  I ran a pipe tap 
all the way through to make sure I had good threads all the way and try to 
get rid of some of the taper in the coupler.  I brought it home, put some 
blue locktite on it left it set for a few hours and then I was able to 
remore it.  Then I had to put the fitting in a vise to break the brass 
coupler loose and then I cleaned up the fitting.

Once again.  Thanks for everyone's advice.

Craig 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Aug 12 03:57:48 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 10:57:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 25D/45D compatibility??
References: <46BE09FD.50504@ida.net>
Message-ID: <014301c7dcc7$451dc510$0200a8c0@Three>

As has been said 'yes', but as to whether the curves will be any good is a 
large can of long thin wriggly things.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Does anyone know if I can put a 25D distributor on a car that has a
> 45D????  In other words, will the shaft fit and the drive dog line up?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Aug 12 04:21:46 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 11:21:46 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Springs
References: <IKEGKDBKEEBKBBFHMPKFEEDKCBAA.jimbb88@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <019001c7dccb$79bbefa0$0200a8c0@Three>

Ride height should be measured from the centre of the axle to the bottom of 
the trim strip running the full length of the car and this eliminates the 
effect of wheels and tyres (and tyre pressures in one memorable case!).

As long as you don't ground or bottom (too much) on the sorts of roads you 
drive the lower the better.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Measuring my 1973 MGBGT, ground to underside of the chrome strip
>
> My question is "what difference does it make, and why do we care"?

From james.nazarian at gmail.com  Sun Aug 12 08:13:26 2007
From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian)
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 10:13:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <006301c7da5e$d8ef2240$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <003a01c7dcea$f454e1d0$6400a8c0@theendindeed>

I think that the manual specs non detergent oil.  Is this really necessary
or will a standard oil do?  So far it seems that most people are just
running standard oil, but I thought I'd ask.

james 

?-----Original Message-----
?From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk] 
?Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 4:18 AM
?To: James Nazarian; 'MG List'
?Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
?
?The gearbox and OD share the oil (and indeed have the same 
?filler, on the RHS of the gearbox casing on RB cars).  It's 
?the same as for the engine i.e. 
?whatever grade is appropriate for your climatic conditions.  I 
?think BL knew what they were doing when they specified that.
?
?PaulH.
?
?----- Original Message ----- 
?>A friend of mine has an '80 MGB with overdrive.  What oil 
?should he put 
?>in  the transmission and overdrive?
?
?
?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Sun Aug 12 08:26:23 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 15:26:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <003a01c7dcea$f454e1d0$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
Message-ID: <001e01c7dcee$855c3bd0$0200a8c0@Three>

The manuals just give engine oils from various manufacturers and of various 
grades without saying whether they are or should be detergent or 
non-detergent.  If engine oil is detergent, as I understand it is, then that 
works fine.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I think that the manual specs non detergent oil.  Is this really necessary
> or will a standard oil do? 

From mgbob at juno.com  Sun Aug 12 10:11:26 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 12:11:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
Message-ID: <20070812.122455.2912.2.MGBOB@juno.com>

  The purpose of the detergent is to keep the crud from engine operation
in suspension so it can be filtered and drained out of the engine. There
is none of that in the gearbox, so detergent is unnecessary. 
Non-detergent is not always easy to find, and MG did not specify
non-detergent, so one must assume that MG believed the gearbox would be
happy with either oil.   
Bob

On Sun, 12 Aug 2007 10:13:26 -0400 "James Nazarian"
<james.nazarian at gmail.com> writes:
> I think that the manual specs non detergent oil.  Is this really 
> necessary
> or will a standard oil do?  So far it seems that most people are 
> just
> running standard oil, but I thought I'd ask.
> 
> james 

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sun Aug 12 19:23:37 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 01:23:37 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty wire wheels.
Message-ID: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Greetings-0-list.

Along with my TC in-a-box, came four wire wheels. Once chromed, the chrome is 
now chipping and rusting. Given the cost of new 19" wire wheels, I'm wondering 
if these can be salvaged. No spokes are broken that I can see at this point.
I tried sand blasting them, but the remaining chrome is not coming off. 
   Any suggestions?

Also, I'm refinishing the No-style wheels on the 74.5. A much easier task.

In a related task, I bought the Saab 15" "carol shelby" wheels someone on the 
list mentioned  a few years ago. Took a lot of effort to get the paint off them, 
as sand blasting left marks on aluminium, bead blasting didn't touch the paint 
at all. Had to use Jasco paint removing jell. small wire brushes, gloves, goggles. because jasco 
hurts when it hits your skin. In you eyes, I didn't want to find out.
Had local tireshop mount 195/60R15 Kumho tires I bought through Tire Rack. 
Bought 1/4" wheel spacers through good old J.C.whitney.

Pardon the rambling. Major pain meds today.

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 12 19:44:40 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 18:44:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty wire wheels.
In-Reply-To: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <15005.38650.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I do not think rechorming would be very good. Dayton only uses stainless on the spokes due to the embrittling of the chroming process. I cant see the spokes but I cant imagine they could not be just blasted and painted the original color.
   
    I wish I had held out for 15's on my daily driver GT. I have 15's on my 67 roadster and love them. 
  Carl French

cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:
  Greetings-0-list.

Along with my TC in-a-box, came four wire wheels. Once chromed, the chrome is 
now chipping and rusting. Given the cost of new 19" wire wheels, I'm wondering 
if these can be salvaged. No spokes are broken that I can see at this point.
I tried sand blasting them, but the remaining chrome is not coming off. 
Any suggestions?

Also, I'm refinishing the No-style wheels on the 74.5. A much easier task.

In a related task, I bought the Saab 15" "carol shelby" wheels someone on the 
list mentioned a few years ago. Took a lot of effort to get the paint off them, 
as sand blasting left marks on aluminium, bead blasting didn't touch the paint 
at all. Had to use Jasco paint removing jell. small wire brushes, gloves, goggles. because jasco 
hurts when it hits your skin. In you eyes, I didn't want to find out.
Had local tireshop mount 195/60R15 Kumho tires I bought through Tire Rack. 
Bought 1/4" wheel spacers through good old J.C.whitney.

Pardon the rambling. Major pain meds today.
_______________________________________________
leylandauto at yahoo.com
       
---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato? 
Check out fun summer activities for kids.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 13 03:58:27 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 10:58:27 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty wire wheels.
References: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00b301c7dd90$88169940$0200a8c0@Three>

What are the rims and hubs like, condition-wise?  I don't think stripping 
and rechroming of spokes is a good idea, let alone worth it.  I can get MGB 
wheels respoked for about half the cost of replacement so it is worth it, 
but from what I see elsewhere - for Dunlops anyway - it doesn't cost in. 
Mine have chrome spokes and for several years I had no breakages, then the 
occasional one (out of all four wheels) per year.  Now (17 years on) I am 
getting several break on trips of 300-400 miles and that's mostly steady 
driving.  The last few that have broken were themselves replacements, even 
though I have many originals left.  I've had one wheel respoked with 
polished stainless (there are several 'grades' of stainless, from almost 
galvanised in appearance to almost chrome) to see how they fare, but if they 
continue to break I'm going to have to invest in the facilities to change 
them myself, or scrap them and go to some other kind of wheel, which would 
be galling as the rims and hubs are still in very good condition.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Along with my TC in-a-box, came four wire wheels. Once chromed, the chrome 
> is
> now chipping and rusting. Given the cost of new 19" wire wheels, I'm 
> wondering
> if these can be salvaged. 

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Mon Aug 13 05:34:47 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:34:47 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty wire wheels.
Message-ID: <081320071134.1959.46C041D7000ABC66000007A722165258069F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hi paul
You may have a point. it is $400.00 + per wheel for painted wheels.
I don't want to rechrome. just strip them and paint them silver. Hubs are worn, too. They cost a lot, last time I checked.
So it's a matter of costing out parts and seeing what works best. I don't know how the metal would be affected by chrome removal, rust. Safty fast, of course.
Eric


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
> What are the rims and hubs like, condition-wise?  I don't think stripping 
> and rechroming of spokes is a good idea, let alone worth it.  I can get MGB 
> wheels respoked for about half the cost of replacement so it is worth it, 
> but from what I see elsewhere - for Dunlops anyway - it doesn't cost in. 
> Mine have chrome spokes and for several years I had no breakages, then the 
> occasional one (out of all four wheels) per year.  Now (17 years on) I am 
> getting several break on trips of 300-400 miles and that's mostly steady 
> driving.  The last few that have broken were themselves replacements, even 
> though I have many originals left.  I've had one wheel respoked with 
> polished stainless (there are several 'grades' of stainless, from almost 
> galvanised in appearance to almost chrome) to see how they fare, but if they 
> continue to break I'm going to have to invest in the facilities to change 
> them myself, or scrap them and go to some other kind of wheel, which would 
> be galling as the rims and hubs are still in very good condition.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > Along with my TC in-a-box, came four wire wheels. Once chromed, the chrome 
> > is
> > now chipping and rusting. Given the cost of new 19" wire wheels, I'm 
> > wondering
> > if these can be salvaged. 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Aug 13 08:18:47 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:18:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] trunk lid
Message-ID: <46C06847.3080502@gmail.com>

Over the weekend I put on my new used trunk lid. It fits better than the 
old one, but still has some sign of
moron trying to shove it down, as it doesn't lay flat on the left side.  
Is there something I can do about that?
I'll talk to my cousin who does body work. I've got a new set of hinges 
off eBay, that were in better shape
than mine. Not sure how to tell left from right.

Anyway, I can't seem to get the catch to work right. I worked on it with 
out the lock, and thought I had it,
but then when I put the lock in, it doesn't move enough to unlatch. I 
twisted the lock and drilled a small hole
in the lid (that would be covered by the lock, and using a drill bit, 
can pop open the trunk.

I have the striker (402-540) up as high as it will go. Is there any 
adjustment for the latch assembly (402-530)?

Perhaps this is related to the slight bend in the lid?

As an aside, the old lid had the late style luggage rack. I'm not going 
to use it, if anyone is interested. 
I'm thinking it's about time to get setup selling on eBay.

Paul.

From jkk at adams.net  Mon Aug 13 08:21:05 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:21:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty wire wheels.
References: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001901c7ddb5$2f5e3270$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cyberemp at comcast.net>

> I tried sand blasting them, but the remaining chrome is not coming off.
>   Any suggestions?
>

The only way I know to get chrome off is to take it to a chrome plating shop 
and let them strip it. I have had a bunch of Harley parts stripped by a 
local shop, it isn't that expensive to have done..

Jim 

From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Aug 13 08:28:11 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 23:58:11 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
In-Reply-To: <001901c7ddb5$2f5e3270$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
References: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<001901c7ddb5$2f5e3270$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <D0272F85-BECD-4C3E-A59B-095D7044FDA3@erickson.on.net>

I thought some of you might like to see some great photos a workmate  
of mine took at the Rally of South australia (part of the Australian  
Rally Championship) on the weekend.

I was running this stage of the event and ended up being too busy to  
get my camera out!

http://users.on.net/~bradley/Galleries/RallySA-2007/

No MGs tis weeend - mostly modern technology (apart from the "local"  
entries in some older Toyotas and Datsuns)



Eric

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 13 08:42:51 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 15:42:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] trunk lid
References: <46C06847.3080502@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007b01c7ddb9$4ef0ca40$0200a8c0@Three>

That *seems* to be fairly common, possibly due to being supported on that 
side only, even if not having been pushed down with the strut still locked. 
I improved mine by putting washers between the hinge that side and the 
tonneau panel, which moved that hinge down relative to the panel, and hence 
that corner of the lid.  If you use too many you will need longer bolts, of 
course.

You should be able to close the latch manually with the lid up, then release 
it with the button to make sure it is functioning.  If not you should be 
able to see why not.  If that's OK but it doesn't release when the lid is 
closed (a heart in mouth moment the first time you do it) it looks like 
alignment or distortion is the problem.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Over the weekend I put on my new used trunk lid. It fits better than the
> old one, but still has some sign of
> moron trying to shove it down, as it doesn't lay flat on the left side.
> Is there something I can do about that?
>
> Anyway, I can't seem to get the catch to work right. 

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Aug 13 08:49:37 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:49:37 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
In-Reply-To: <D0272F85-BECD-4C3E-A59B-095D7044FDA3@erickson.on.net>
References: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<001901c7ddb5$2f5e3270$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<D0272F85-BECD-4C3E-A59B-095D7044FDA3@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <46C06F81.4020103@gmail.com>

There's some nice shots there.

I'm looking at number 72, and I can't figure out what that all is? Like 
a water canon
shooting down on the car.

Eric Erickson wrote:
> I thought some of you might like to see some great photos a workmate  
> of mine took at the Rally of South australia (part of the Australian  
> Rally Championship) on the weekend.
>
> I was running this stage of the event and ended up being too busy to  
> get my camera out!
>
> http://users.on.net/~bradley/Galleries/RallySA-2007/
>
> No MGs tis weeend - mostly modern technology (apart from the "local"  
> entries in some older Toyotas and Datsuns)
>
>
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Mon Aug 13 08:51:54 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 10:51:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
In-Reply-To: <D0272F85-BECD-4C3E-A59B-095D7044FDA3@erickson.on.net>
References: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<001901c7ddb5$2f5e3270$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<D0272F85-BECD-4C3E-A59B-095D7044FDA3@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <76664a460708130751w867df58l260842866dc5cc22@mail.gmail.com>

Great pics!

On 8/13/07, Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote:
> I thought some of you might like to see some great photos a workmate
> of mine took at the Rally of South australia (part of the Australian
> Rally Championship) on the weekend.
>
> I was running this stage of the event and ended up being too busy to
> get my camera out!
>
> http://users.on.net/~bradley/Galleries/RallySA-2007/
>
> No MGs tis weeend - mostly modern technology (apart from the "local"
> entries in some older Toyotas and Datsuns)
>
>
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Aug 13 08:54:38 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:54:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] trunk lid
In-Reply-To: <007b01c7ddb9$4ef0ca40$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <46C06847.3080502@gmail.com> <007b01c7ddb9$4ef0ca40$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <46C070AE.7010502@gmail.com>

It does move it, and these pieces come from the old lid, and worked 
fine.  So I'm thinking it's the distortion.

Good idea on the washers, I'll give it a go.

I did put in a new seal, but when I first hit this problem, I pulled it 
and put the old one back on. Didn't change things.

I was thinking that the latches lever arm or the locks semi-circular 
mating surface could be worn enough to cause problems.
I wonder if I could put some washers in that to move it down. No, it 
just sits in the frame.

Paul.


Paul Hunt wrote:
> That *seems* to be fairly common, possibly due to being supported on 
> that side only, even if not having been pushed down with the strut 
> still locked. I improved mine by putting washers between the hinge 
> that side and the tonneau panel, which moved that hinge down relative 
> to the panel, and hence that corner of the lid.  If you use too many 
> you will need longer bolts, of course.
>
> You should be able to close the latch manually with the lid up, then 
> release it with the button to make sure it is functioning.  If not you 
> should be able to see why not.  If that's OK but it doesn't release 
> when the lid is closed (a heart in mouth moment the first time you do 
> it) it looks like alignment or distortion is the problem.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Over the weekend I put on my new used trunk lid. It fits better than the
>> old one, but still has some sign of
>> moron trying to shove it down, as it doesn't lay flat on the left side.
>> Is there something I can do about that?
>>
>> Anyway, I can't seem to get the catch to work right. 

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Mon Aug 13 09:01:02 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:01:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF695@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

"I'm looking at number 72, and I can't figure out what that all is? Like
a water canon shooting down on the car."

Isn't that just spray coming up from the muddy puddle he's just driven
through?  Although it is weird how it's shooting up and forward like
that.


Richard & Sammy
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From eric at erickson.on.net  Mon Aug 13 09:01:26 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 00:31:26 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
In-Reply-To: <46C06F81.4020103@gmail.com>
References: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
	<001901c7ddb5$2f5e3270$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<D0272F85-BECD-4C3E-A59B-095D7044FDA3@erickson.on.net>
	<46C06F81.4020103@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3EA72CFF-686F-4533-B81D-7A00FE598B43@erickson.on.net>

On 14/08/2007, at 12:19 AM, Paul Root wrote:

> There's some nice shots there.
>
> I'm looking at number 72, and I can't figure out what that all is?  
> Like a water canon
> shooting down on the car.
>>

I think he has just hit a patch of muddy ground (or a muddy pothole)  
and it has ejected a rock... looks great.  I thought he had launched  
an RPG at the competitor in front of him (or had one fired at him).

I loved a lot of the shots.

Eric

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 13 09:15:52 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:15:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] trunk lid
References: <46C06847.3080502@gmail.com>
	<007b01c7ddb9$4ef0ca40$0200a8c0@Three> <46C070AE.7010502@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009501c7ddbd$822e5360$0200a8c0@Three>

Just had a closer look at mine.  I was thinking it was like the door latches 
where the release button causes it to spring back.  But I see that as you 
push the button in pulls the hook back away from the loop at the bottom of 
the surround.  So if the release button isn't going all the way down when it 
jams, and that only happens when it is closed, maybe the hook is too tight 
on the loop.  But if it does go all the way down but still doesn't release 
the lid then I reckon it is distortion such that the hook needs to come back 
further before it will release the loop.  The easiest way of achieving this 
would be to push the loop *forwards*.

Paul.

----- Original Message ----- 
> It does move it, and these pieces come from the old lid, and worked fine. 
> So I'm thinking it's the distortion.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Mon Aug 13 09:37:27 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 10:37:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF695@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF695@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <46C07AB7.1010103@gmail.com>

Gosling, Richard wrote:
> "I'm looking at number 72, and I can't figure out what that all is? Like
> a water canon shooting down on the car."
>
> Isn't that just spray coming up from the muddy puddle he's just driven
> through?  Although it is weird how it's shooting up and forward like
> that.
>   
Yeah, probably. But the stuff coming out the side is muddy and the 
forward one
looks like clean water.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug 13 10:01:58 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:01:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
In-Reply-To: <001701c7dc57$3e635070$6401a8c0@DELL>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874977@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Craig:

Really creative solution. Thanks for lettting us know how you did it.
I'll have to put that in idea in my toolbox.





Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Straub
> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2007 1:36 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil ine fitting - HELP!
>
> Hi list,
>
> Thanks for everyone's suggestions.  I had to go to the hardware store
> early
> this morning.  One of the guys there is a hot rod nut and we started
> talking
> about the problem.  I had a spare oil fitting from my race car that I
took
> along.
>
> What I ended up doing was getting a brass 1/2" coupler.  I ran a pipe
tap
> all the way through to make sure I had good threads all the way and
try to
> get rid of some of the taper in the coupler.  I brought it home, put
some
> blue locktite on it left it set for a few hours and then I was able to
> remore it.  Then I had to put the fitting in a vise to break the brass
> coupler loose and then I cleaned up the fitting.
>
> Once again.  Thanks for everyone's advice.
>
> Craig

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 13 10:36:19 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:36:19 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <001e01c7dcee$855c3bd0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C2E5D693.125A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Right. But in the case of the transmission, the detergent additives don't do
anything, so if non-detergent oil were readily available and less expensive,
it would be preferred.

If you think about it, the oil in the transmission is essentially like the
oil in the sump -- foaming may be an issue (hence non-detergent), but the
other conditions prevalent in the engine such as combustion byproducts, and
extreme heat and pressure, don't apply.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/12/07 7:26 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> The manuals just give engine oils from various manufacturers and of various
> grades without saying whether they are or should be detergent or
> non-detergent.  If engine oil is detergent, as I understand it is, then that
> works fine.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I think that the manual specs non detergent oil.  Is this really necessary
>> or will a standard oil do?
> _______________________________________________

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 13 10:39:08 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:39:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty wire wheels.
In-Reply-To: <081320070123.8585.46BFB2990002EB2D0000218922155934149F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C2E5D73C.125A5%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

It would probably take an electrolytic process to remove the chrome
entirely. I can't imagine that this would be cost-effective vs
readily-available replacement wheels. Maybe for custom odd-size wheels from
your vintage Napier-Railton...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/12/07 6:23 PM, cyberemp at comcast.net at cyberemp at comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings-0-list.
> 
> Along with my TC in-a-box, came four wire wheels. Once chromed, the chrome is
> now chipping and rusting. Given the cost of new 19" wire wheels, I'm wondering
> if these can be salvaged. No spokes are broken that I can see at this point.
> I tried sand blasting them, but the remaining chrome is not coming off.
>    Any suggestions?
> 
> Also, I'm refinishing the No-style wheels on the 74.5. A much easier task.
> 
> In a related task, I bought the Saab 15" "carol shelby" wheels someone on the
> list mentioned  a few years ago. Took a lot of effort to get the paint off
> them, 
> as sand blasting left marks on aluminium, bead blasting didn't touch the paint
> at all. Had to use Jasco paint removing jell. small wire brushes, gloves,
> goggles. because jasco
> hurts when it hits your skin. In you eyes, I didn't want to find out.
> Had local tireshop mount 195/60R15 Kumho tires I bought through Tire Rack.
> Bought 1/4" wheel spacers through good old J.C.whitney.
> 
> Pardon the rambling. Major pain meds today.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 13 10:55:19 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 17:55:19 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5D693.125A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00c301c7ddca$c1c73a20$0200a8c0@Three>

OK, but the point is that it doesn't *need* a non-detergent oil.  A 
different oil is just another item to find and keep in stock, as it were.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Right. But in the case of the transmission, the detergent additives don't 
> do
> anything, so if non-detergent oil were readily available and less 
> expensive,
> it would be preferred.

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 13 11:38:29 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 10:38:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <00c301c7ddca$c1c73a20$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

But how often do you drain, refill or top off your transmission? I don't see
that as a factor, really...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/13/07 9:55 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

> OK, but the point is that it doesn't *need* a non-detergent oil.  A
> different oil is just another item to find and keep in stock, as it were.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Right. But in the case of the transmission, the detergent additives don't
>> do
>> anything, so if non-detergent oil were readily available and less
>> expensive,
>> it would be preferred.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug 13 12:12:54 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:12:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Springs
In-Reply-To: <E1IJgWn-0000eX-V1@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8749E2@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Barrie:

The MGB GT V8 sat almost an inch higher than the regular four cylinder
car. At the front the cross member had the raised pads seen on rubber
bumper 4 cylinders to allow clearance for the early V8 oil pan (deeper
than the SD1 design).

At the rear of the car the spring front mountings were dropped,
effectively raising the rear ride height to match.

The 4.5" ground clearance sounds like it was under the middle muffler
which was about an inch larger in diameter than the 4 cylinder unit.

The higher ride height makes the car look a bit more "butch" but the
change in handling was criticized.

Your front height looks a tad low, but if your spring rates are where
you want them there is no problem with that.

I did a lot of research before writing up the vehicle height information
in the Performance section of the Moss catalog. I found that there was
an incredible range of heights from car to car. I ended up combining
current research from a number of mailing lists with inspections of
period photography to get a range of ride heights that give at least
some indication of the differences between available springs.


Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net]
On
> Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:08 PM
> To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Springs
>
> Gurus,
>
> I need some advice on my MGB GT V8 (1970 body) ride height.  My front
> measures 12.5" and rear 13" - from centre of hub to bottom of chrome
> trim.  I measured the clearance to the bottom of the sill panel
> (lowest bodywork) and it is 5.5".    The book says the GT V8 should
> have 4.5" clearance so am I high?....or do they measure to somewhere
> else like the exhaust ???  I have 185/70/14 tyres
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
>
> ///
> ///  mgb-v8 at autox.team.net mailing list
> ///  Send admin requests to majordomo at autox.team.net
> ///  Send list postings to mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
> ///  Edit your replies!  If they include this trailer, they will NOT
be
> sent.
> ///

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Mon Aug 13 12:20:24 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 14:20:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] E-type slams into traffic light
Message-ID: <00b401c7ddd6$9df64210$6401a8c0@RicksPC>

An Etype out for a sunday drive yesterday slammed into a traffic light in
Holland - Pics here
http://www.telegraaf.nl/binnenland/68886121/Zondags_ritje_eindigt_tegen_verke
erslicht.html?p=9,1

MG content: Thank God it wasn't an MG :)

Rick

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug 13 12:18:43 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:18:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
In-Reply-To: <000b01c7dbd4$72ad7af0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C8749F0@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Ron:

Just following up.

The Valco Hylomar sample glob that I squeezed out last week is still
tacky enough even on the smeared edges to have stuck itself to some
invoices on my desk.

It definitely is not skimming over!

It is not wet, but turns to a more putty like consistency that is still
quite tacky.




Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Fine [mailto:RonFineEsq at earthlink.net]
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 10:00 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net; Dodd, Kelvin
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Gasket sealants
>
> This may be more information than anyone really wants to know about
> Hylomar
> so be forewarned.
>
>
> Now that I have used it, I don't think the Hylomar that I bought from
Moss
> last week is the same formula as I was use to using from Permatex.
The
> original Permatex version of Hylomar did not skim over.  I have an old
> tube
> of the original Permatex and the stuff that has oozed out of the tube
is
> still wet and sticky after being exposed to air for quite some time.
The
> Moss Hylomar (distributed by Valco Cincinnati) seems to skim over
quickly.
>
> I did a little research on line tonight.  Hylomar is a trade marked
named
> for many products manufactured HYLOMAR LTD, in Wigan, England.  This
> company
> in England claims to manufacture the original Hylomar which was
previously
> sold in the USA by Permatex as "Hylomar HPF".   Valco Cincinnati is
listed
> as one of the USA distributors of Hylomar products on the Hylomar LTD
web
> site.  There are other USA distributors which apparently operate under
> different companies, including Hylomar USA, Inc. who distributed
through
> Lub-O-seal Co, Inc. in Texas.
>
> There are several different formula for sealants using the Hylomar
name,
> including Hylomar AeroGrade, Hylomar AeroGrade Ultra,  Hylomar
Universal
> Blue, Hylomar Racing Formula, and Hylomar Advanced Formula.   Check
out
> the
> web site www.hylomar-usa.com
>
> Also look at www.hylomar.com   which is the web page for the
manufacture
> in
> England.  Their web page FAQ clearly states that they have had trouble
> getting it distributed in the USA after Permatex dropped their Hylomar
> HPF.
> (Permatex was acquired by ITW and the Hylomar product line was
dropped.)
>
> Valco Cincinnati packaging is different from the packaging shown on
the
> Hylomar-USA web site.   I can't know for sure, but, I believe the
Hylomar
> distributed by Valco (Moss Motors) is called "Hylomar Universal Blue"
on
> the
> web site of the manufacture in England.  (Not really sure but it is
> different from the old Permatex Hylomar).  The manufacture states that
the
> original Permatex HPF is actually "Hylomar Advanced Formula" which is
> solvent free.
>
> So, I am now looking for a retail seller of Hylomar Advanced Formula
> manufactured by Hylomar, LTD in Wigan, England.
>
> Ron

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 13 12:27:50 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:27:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] E-type slams into traffic light
In-Reply-To: <00b401c7ddd6$9df64210$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <268911.31120.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I drove an e-type for years.  It is a beginner's
mistake with the e-type to underestimate the length of
the nose.  Its WAY further out there than it seems
from the driver's seat.  In fact, its far enough out
to clip a traffic light when you think you have ample
clearance!!!  Thus, I surmise that the driver was new
to the car - or just lost control. :-P

rick

--- Rick Brown <mgrick at mgcars.org.uk> wrote:

> An Etype out for a sunday drive yesterday slammed
> into a traffic light in
> Holland - Pics here
>
http://www.telegraaf.nl/binnenland/68886121/Zondags_ritje_eindigt_tegen_verke
> erslicht.html?p=9,1
> 
> MG content: Thank God it wasn't an MG :)
> 
> Rick

From jello at ida.net  Mon Aug 13 09:37:53 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:37:53 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Sprite/Midget water pump
Message-ID: <1933.209.180.80.45.1187019473.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

Can anyone tell me the difference between the two water pumps listed in
the moss catalog - 434-540 and 434-545.  A friend of mine is restoring his
car, and put in a 1275 motor.  I'm not sure if it's pre-12CD/H1746  or
not, and he doesn't know which pump to use.  I wondered if the impeller
and/or snail is different depending on the block.

Phil Bates

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug 13 13:13:59 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 12:13:59 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Sprite/Midget water pump
In-Reply-To: <1933.209.180.80.45.1187019473.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874A35@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Phil:

The impeller on the 434-545 is approx. 1/2" deeper than that of the
434-540.

If you have the depth for the approx. 1" deep later impeller then use
the later pump.

The impeller depth was changed when the cross flow radiator was
introduced.





Kelvin Dodd




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Phil Bates
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 8:38 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Sprite/Midget water pump
>
> Can anyone tell me the difference between the two water pumps listed
in
> the moss catalog - 434-540 and 434-545.  A friend of mine is restoring
his
> car, and put in a 1275 motor.  I'm not sure if it's pre-12CD/H1746  or
> not, and he doesn't know which pump to use.  I wondered if the
impeller
> and/or snail is different depending on the block.
>
> Phil Bates
> _______________________________________________

From roger at rogerlos.com  Mon Aug 13 13:18:38 2007
From: roger at rogerlos.com (Roger Los)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 12:18:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty early shell
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874A35@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <1933.209.180.80.45.1187019473.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874A35@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <009701c7ddde$c0b7d5e0$6102a8c0@roomofdoom>

Anyone in western WA want a rusty pull-handle MGB shell? It's really rough,
but if you car needed the front inner fenders, oil-cooler shelf, bonnet
closing panel, etc., that's all in decent condition. The car was never
wrecked, just left to dissolve. There are no floors, sills, trunk floot,
fenders, etc., etc. 

Free, or I would even consider paying a bit to remove it...otherwise it goes
for scrap, soon!

Roger Los

From John.Hed at faa.gov  Mon Aug 13 13:45:12 2007
From: John.Hed at faa.gov (John.Hed at faa.gov)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 12:45:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
Message-ID: <OF5BAE8B25.3CC3A830-ON88257336.006BF92D-88257336.006C8220@faa.gov>

Anyone out there know of the proper paint (color code or name) for the 80
LE wheels?  It appears to be a dark metalic gray of some sort.  At least on
what I think are the good original parts of my wheels.  If I can't get a
good match, I guess I'll just go with black, which should match the car and
still look good.  I appreciate any thought

I post this occasionally and have never found an answer.  Hoping someone
new to the list may know.  If you have an answer, please reply to my work
email too:  john.hed at faa.gov

John
80 MGB LE

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 13 14:10:14 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:10:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
In-Reply-To: <OF5BAE8B25.3CC3A830-ON88257336.006BF92D-88257336.006C8220@faa.gov>
Message-ID: <532258.55095.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had a '79 MGB LE.  I got a close match by visiting
the auto parts store and finding a dark metallic gray
in spray cans.  Looked great.

rick
--- John.Hed at faa.gov wrote:

> Anyone out there know of the proper paint (color
> code or name) for the 80
> LE wheels?  It appears to be a dark metalic gray of
> some sort.  At least on
> what I think are the good original parts of my
> wheels.  If I can't get a
> good match, I guess I'll just go with black, which
> should match the car and
> still look good.  I appreciate any thought
> 
> I post this occasionally and have never found an
> answer.  Hoping someone
> new to the list may know.  If you have an answer,
> please reply to my work
> email too:  john.hed at faa.gov
> 
> John
> 80 MGB LE
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Mon Aug 13 15:12:16 2007
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 17:12:16 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
Message-ID: <cf5.12d69b2b.33f22330@aol.com>

Does anyone wants a good set of 4 Rostyle wheels? I have a set. If you pay  
for the shipping they're yours free! No center caps just the rims. Plus  
they'll need to be painted. Probably best to reply to me offline . 
They're located about 50 miles north of Los Angeles,  CA. If you want them I 
can check FedEX or UPS rates to your location
Albert Escalante
_aeseeyou at aol.com_ (mailto:aeseeyou at aol.com) 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
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From r.gosling at penspen.com  Tue Aug 14 01:25:01 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 08:25:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF698@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

I just painted mine (actually Triumph Stag alloys but they look the
same) with Black Hammerite Smooth.  Probably not original, then...


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug 14 02:43:13 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:43:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>

Drain and refill maybe.  I do top-up my gearboxes occasionally, certainly 
wouldn't buy a special oil, particularly when Abingdon say to use engine 
oil.  For that reason I wouldn't use anything other than engine oil even for 
a drain and refill.  It's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> But how often do you drain, refill or top off your transmission? I don't 
> see
> that as a factor, really...

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Aug 14 12:16:15 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:16:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF698@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF698@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <1040CD5C-CD3D-4B77-AA07-DAD008E15D8E@gmail.com>

The original LE wheels on he B were dark grey.

The old aftermarket ones were black.

I  don't know on the new Moss wheels. The picture on line look pretty
dark. Probably black.


On Aug 14, 2007, at 2:25 AM, Gosling, Richard wrote:

> I just painted mine (actually Triumph Stag alloys but they look the
> same) with Black Hammerite Smooth.  Probably not original, then...
>
>
> Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
>    
> ______________________________________________________________________ 
> __
> Th

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 14 12:28:47 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 11:28:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
In-Reply-To: <1040CD5C-CD3D-4B77-AA07-DAD008E15D8E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874BD9@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Paul:

Probably not black. Actually a perfect match to original.

When the new batch of LE wheels came in, I compared the wheel to those
on the low mileage original LE we own.

The color is an exact match to the original un-faded grey. The wheel is
in all ways an exact match to the original except that it has the
current manufacturers mark (SCP) rather than the original manufacturer
(GKN).

The cast in part number may have a slightly different font too, but I
was getting nit picky.

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Root
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 11:16 AM
> To: Gosling, Richard
> Cc: John.Hed at faa.gov; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
>
> The original LE wheels on he B were dark grey.
>
> The old aftermarket ones were black.
>
> I  don't know on the new Moss wheels. The picture on line look pretty
> dark. Probably black.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Tue Aug 14 12:33:02 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:33:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874BD9@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874BD9@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <46C1F55E.8050003@gmail.com>

That's good to know. Thanks, Kelvin.

If I hadn't gone through everything in the last year to get the Cosmic 
wheels done. I'd
be wanting LE wheels.

Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> Paul:
>
> Probably not black. Actually a perfect match to original.
>
> When the new batch of LE wheels came in, I compared the wheel to those
> on the low mileage original LE we own. 
>
> The color is an exact match to the original un-faded grey. The wheel is
> in all ways an exact match to the original except that it has the
> current manufacturers mark (SCP) rather than the original manufacturer
> (GKN).
>
> The cast in part number may have a slightly different font too, but I
> was getting nit picky. 
>
> Kelvin Dodd 
>
>
>   
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
>> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Root
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 11:16 AM
>> To: Gosling, Richard
>> Cc: John.Hed at faa.gov; mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
>>
>> The original LE wheels on he B were dark grey.
>>
>> The old aftermarket ones were black.
>>
>> I  don't know on the new Moss wheels. The picture on line look pretty
>> dark. Probably black.

From hdr at pobox.com  Tue Aug 14 15:07:51 2007
From: hdr at pobox.com (Henry D. Reynolds)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 16:07:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1


This thread reminded me of this article.

http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11

I believe the authors claim that detergent oils tend to foam and that
if your OD is marginal or maybe in a 40-year-old car one would be
better server to buy the non-detergent variety.

Paul Hunt wrote:
> Drain and refill maybe.  I do top-up my gearboxes occasionally,
> certainly wouldn't buy a special oil, particularly when Abingdon
> say to use engine oil.  For that reason I wouldn't use anything
> other than engine oil even for a drain and refill.  It's a solution
> to a problem that doesn't exist.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> But how often do you drain, refill or top off your transmission?
>> I don't see that as a factor, really...
> ______________________________________________

- --

 Alle Menschen werden Br|der.

      Henry D. Reynolds - System Administrator
    mail: hdr at pobox.com - phone: 512.448.3617 - cell: 512.699.8658
  PGP Key 407DCDE1 Fpr: 3F 5A FD F6 E5 40 55 9C  7F 0F 81 F5 0A E6 3B 7F
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Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org

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BhK/F9Pr+vrKbWGHYzSZ3SRtwAA2e63zxxfW+4P068R7mNXSO6mADTEMtDZGjcz9
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From RampantNM at aol.com  Tue Aug 14 16:22:49 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:22:49 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint
Message-ID: <c4e.1b173f12.33f38539@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/13/2007 3:12:47 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Aeseeyou at aol.com writes:

Does  anyone wants a good set of 4 Rostyle wheels? I have a set. If you pay
for the shipping they're yours free! No center caps just the rims.  Plus
they'll need to be painted. Probably best to reply to me  offline .
They're located about 50 miles north of Los Angeles,  CA.  If you want them I
can check FedEX or UPS rates to your location
Albert  Escalante

I've got two sets in the El Paso, TX area that you can have, with crappy
tires and three wire wheel hub caps!  One set is painted black.


Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




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From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 17:02:50 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 16:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint [now: subject rant]
In-Reply-To: <c4e.1b173f12.33f38539@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2E782AA.12687%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

You know, people, if you really want to move some surplus merchandise, it
would probably help if you started by CHANGING THE SUBJECT LINE to something
actually relevant, like "Free Rostyle Wheels - set of 4 - CA". This would
have the added benefit of not annoying people interested in the ostensible
subject having to do with LE wheels.

Sheesh...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/14/07 3:22 PM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 8/13/2007 3:12:47 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> Aeseeyou at aol.com writes:
> 
> Does  anyone wants a good set of 4 Rostyle wheels? I have a set. If you pay
> for the shipping they're yours free! No center caps just the rims.  Plus
> they'll need to be painted. Probably best to reply to me  offline .
> They're located about 50 miles north of Los Angeles,  CA.  If you want them I
> can check FedEX or UPS rates to your location
> Albert  Escalante
> 
> I've got two sets in the El Paso, TX area that you can have, with crappy
> tires and three wire wheel hub caps!  One set is painted black.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 63 TR4
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
> 
> b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
> several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields

From RampantNM at aol.com  Tue Aug 14 18:56:02 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 20:56:02 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint [now: subject rant]
Message-ID: <c02.1d5ba059.33f3a922@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/14/2007 5:10:20 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes:

This  would
have the added benefit of not annoying people interested in the  ostensible
subject having to do with LE  wheels.

Sheesh...


--

Max  Heim



No problem Max, I boxed up the wheels and sent them out this  afternoon to
you freight collect.  Enjoy...you don't even have to say thank  you.  I threw
in
the three wire wheel covers too.

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
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From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Tue Aug 14 19:22:19 2007
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:22:19 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5D693.125A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<00c301c7ddca$c1c73a20$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <003a01c7deda$bd3878a0$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>

I was told by the transmission re-builder that it would be best not to use
"detergent oil" in the overdrive transmission because foaming, typical to
detergent oil, in the overdrive section could be detrimental.  I've never
had a problem buying name brand non detergent oil at my local auto parts
store.
Danny V.
'58 MGA daily driver (w/OD)
'76 MGB V-6 project



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Max Heim" <max_heim at sbcglobal.net>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil


> OK, but the point is that it doesn't *need* a non-detergent oil.  A
> different oil is just another item to find and keep in stock, as it were.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> Right. But in the case of the transmission, the detergent additives don't
>> do
>> anything, so if non-detergent oil were readily available and less
>> expensive,
>> it would be preferred.
> _______________________________________________
> dannyvarnado at cox.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 19:32:54 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:32:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint [now: subject rant]
In-Reply-To: <c02.1d5ba059.33f3a922@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2E7A5D6.126A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Yeah, I know, it's only Tuesday and I'm wearing my cranky pants...

But really, it's not even a matter of etiquette, it's just Effective
Communication. Suppose I started posting urgent questions about brake line
flare fittings under this same subject, then got bent out of shape because
nobody responded. I'd have nobody to blame but myself...but would I realize
it? I would have thought everyone on this list has been on the 'net long
enough to already know this, but apparently a reminder was necessary...

No offense intended... (I was not personally annoyed, or even interested in
LE wheel paint, for that matter).


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires (soon to get new wheels...?)


on 8/14/07 5:56 PM, RampantNM at aol.com at RampantNM at aol.com wrote:

>
>
> In a message dated 8/14/2007 5:10:20 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> This  would
> have the added benefit of not annoying people interested in the  ostensible
> subject having to do with LE  wheels.
>
> Sheesh...
>
>
> --
>
> Max  Heim
>
>
>
> No problem Max, I boxed up the wheels and sent them out this  afternoon to
> you freight collect.  Enjoy...you don't even have to say thank  you.  I
threw
> in
> the three wire wheel covers too.
>
> Regards,
>
> Robert B. Houston
> 63 TR4
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
>
> 
Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
> several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Tue Aug 14 20:12:07 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:12:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three> <46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <46C260F7.9040402@ktc.com>

This test is apparently dine on a bench setup..One thing that bothers me 
is that the assembly isn't allowed to heat up, such as it would in the 
running car.  As someone who made a living testing devices and systems, 
I have to cringe when I see tests run that don't approximate the real 
world conditions.

   Also, why would they use 90W gear lube when it's expressly prohibited?

   CR


Henry D. Reynolds wrote:
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
> 
> 
> This thread reminded me of this article.
> 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11
> 
> I believe the authors claim that detergent oils tend to foam and that
> if your OD is marginal or maybe in a 40-year-old car one would be
> better server to buy the non-detergent variety.
> 
> Paul Hunt wrote:
>> Drain and refill maybe.  I do top-up my gearboxes occasionally,
>> certainly wouldn't buy a special oil, particularly when Abingdon
>> say to use engine oil.  For that reason I wouldn't use anything
>> other than engine oil even for a drain and refill.  It's a solution
>> to a problem that doesn't exist.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> But how often do you drain, refill or top off your transmission?
>>> I don't see that as a factor, really...
>> ______________________________________________
> 
> - --
> 
>  Alle Menschen werden Br|der.
> 
>       Henry D. Reynolds - System Administrator
>     mail: hdr at pobox.com - phone: 512.448.3617 - cell: 512.699.8658
>   PGP Key 407DCDE1 Fpr: 3F 5A FD F6 E5 40 55 9C  7F 0F 81 F5 0A E6 3B 7F
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.7 (Darwin)
> Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org
> 
> iQCVAwUBRsIZp2T370NAfc3hAQK3MQP/aUNFr0hA3YAwRZI/YixwkXUk+RsZXo29
> 7lnNOMm2yhODXejCJrUziwLZgJ6CwYSlfhp4VCQ+nuImt4S9qXQNbubBYGZk5CMS
> BhK/F9Pr+vrKbWGHYzSZ3SRtwAA2e63zxxfW+4P068R7mNXSO6mADTEMtDZGjcz9
> b6PxFfCD7/w=
> =oSG6
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
> _______________________________________________
> ccrobins at ktc.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Aug 15 02:39:46 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 09:39:46 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <00d801c7df19$bb255170$0200a8c0@Three>

I've seen ATF recommended a number of times for 'marginal' ODs both for 
cleaning purposes to be replaced by the proper stuff afterwards, or used 
continuously when the cleaning hasn't helped.  In desperation, and to avoid 
having to do a major OD repair then and there I would consider it, but again 
I'd never use it as an automatic (ho ho) replacement for the recommended 
oil.  A marginal OD is just that - it isn't up to spec and use of a 
non-recommended oil is a work-around at best.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... if your OD is marginal or maybe in a 40-year-old car one would be
> better server to buy the non-detergent variety.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Aug 15 03:47:53 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 10:47:53 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mechanical cooling fan
Message-ID: <00ed01c7df22$20761480$0200a8c0@Three>

I'd be interested in some measurements on these.

What is the distance between the rear edge of the blades and the front of 
the dynamo/alternator spindle, and the distance between the front edge of 
the blades and the back of the radiator?  Please state blade type i.e. 
6-blade metal, 3-blade metal, 7-blade plastic (there were two of these, one 
without metal inserts in the blades and one with, don't know if they are 
separately identifiable) in each case.

For those with the earlier 3-bladed metal fan, is the concave (i.e. slightly 
cupped) face of the individual blades facing the engine or the radiator?

The 3-bladed metal on my UK 73 roadster seems to be the wrong way round 
(i.e. concave face forwards), but the other way round there is only a couple 
of mm clearance to the alternator and crank pulley and a massive 3" to the 
radiator.  The 'wrong' way round it is just under an inch to the alternator 
and crank pulley and a plenty big enough 1 3/4" to the radiator.  Any 
improvement in efficiency by having the blades facing the correct way must 
surely be lost by moving them that much further away from the radiator as it 
is unshrouded, let alone possible problems with proximity to the alternator 
and crank pulley.  I've changed the water pump on this car myself, and 
changed over its pulley, so I know those two pumps were the same dimension 
at least, and I have another pump the same.

I know first US cars then all cars had modified engine mounts and an engine 
restraint tube fitted to the gearbox, was this because of the 7-bladed fan 
being closer to the radiator and sometimes damaging it?  If so why were they 
(apparently) still fitted to 77 and later models with electric fan and 
forward-mounted radiator?

Thanks,
PaulH.

Thanks,
PaulH. 

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Wed Aug 15 06:21:50 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:21:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9300.1187168021.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFCB590BCE.491E25E6-ON85257338.003FE566-85257338.0043DD4C@exxonmobil.com>

I use 20W50 motor oil in my GT's overdrive gearbox, but in my other British
Leyland car's overdrive gearbox I use the recommended 80W90 gear oil
(synthetic actually, going on 6 years now).  I have not had a problem with
the operation of either one of them.  Volvo recommended gear oil in their
overdrive gearboxes.  Use whichever one you want to, either motor oil or
gear oil, traditional or synthetic, they both will work fine in my opinion.

I really can't see detergent motor oil foaming in the gearbox, I would
think that there is more of a tendency/possibility for oil to foam in an
engine than in a gearbox.  From what I have read motor and gear oil both
have additives to minimize foaming.

Here is something I found on Imperial Oil's website concerning their
Marvelube Product
(http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESMarvelube_80W90.pdf)
 stating that a 80W90 gear has the same viscosity rating as a 20W50 motor
oil:

"MARVELUBE Gear Oil 80W-90 is a straight mineral gear oil recommended for
API service GL-1 applications. API service GL-1 is defined by the American
Petroleum Institute as designating those non-EP gear lubricants suitable
for the lubrication of automotive spiral-bevel gears, and some manual
transmissions operating under mild conditions of low unit pressures and
sliding motion. MARVELUBE Gear Oil is primarily recommended for use in line
haul truck transmissions because of its ability to withstand continuous
high temperatures better than EP type gear oils. It is also preferred to
heavy duty engine oils because of its 80W-90 shear stable multi-grading,
which provides the operating temperature protection of a SAE 50 grade
crankcase oil and the low temperature performance of an SAE 20W fluid."

Mark Jones
'73 MGBGT (w/OD)
'80 Spitfire (w/ OD)

From: "dannyvarnado" <dannyvarnado at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil

I was told by the transmission re-builder that it would be best not to use
"detergent oil" in the overdrive transmission because foaming, typical to
detergent oil, in the overdrive section could be detrimental.  I've never
had a problem buying name brand non detergent oil at my local auto parts
store.
Danny V.
'58 MGA daily driver (w/OD)
'76 MGB V-6 project

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Wed Aug 15 06:27:58 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 07:27:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] John Twist videos
Message-ID: <46C2F14E.7040603@gmail.com>

University Motors has begun making videos of little maintenance chores.

The latest is front hubs for the 'B.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJYXZtnliw&sdig=1

He makes it look very easy.


There was also one on hotwiring MGs from the T series up to all
three varieties of MGB.


Paul.

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Aug 15 06:23:30 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 08:23:30 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
Message-ID: <20070815.083001.2980.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

  Why would anyone use 90W gear lube....?

  MG at one time issued a Tech Service Bulletin that said 90w could be
used.  About a month later that TSB was rescinded, but that bad
information was picked up and used in some service manuals published by
others.  I have an old Haynes that shows 90 as an approved lubricant. It
came with an OD-equipped MGB when I bought the car.  I changed all fluids
as soon as I got the car, including changing to 90 from whatever nasty
sludge was in the OD at the time, and it worked fine until air temp
dropped below about 60degrees F.   
   Sad to say, that erronious information is still out there in some old
books.
Bob




On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:12:07 -0500 Charles & Peggy Robinson
<ccrobins at ktc.com> writes:

snip
> 
>    Also, why would they use 90W gear lube when it's expressly 
> prohibited?
> 
>    CR

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Aug 15 06:58:02 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 13:58:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <20070815.083001.2980.3.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <003a01c7df3c$2192d050$0200a8c0@Three>

I've heard that before, and about it making the manual gear change very 
difficult in cold weather.  90 gear oil is specified for the V8, is what 
mine has, and has never been a problem even when parked outside below 
freezing.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>  MG at one time issued a Tech Service Bulletin that said 90w could be
> used.  ... and it worked fine until air temp
> dropped below about 60degrees F.

From frankk at intap.net  Wed Aug 15 07:08:12 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 09:08:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <20070815.083001.2980.3.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <005b01c7df3d$55f5ce00$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

Bob: I recall that tech bulletin and also have an old service manual that 
mentions the use of 90w.  When Bassett's Jaguar rebuilt the tranny in my 
1964 B a few years back Bill Bassett was very specific about using only 30w 
non-detergent oil. It was readily available at the local Napa store. My 
Bentley manuals call  for the use of the same motor oil as in the engine. 
In my old H Production Bugeye with brass synchros it was absolutely 
forbidden to use gear oil as it had an extremely negative impact on the 
syncro rings.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <ccrobins at ktc.com>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil


>  Why would anyone use 90W gear lube....?
>
>  MG at one time issued a Tech Service Bulletin that said 90w could be
> used.  About a month later that TSB was rescinded, but that bad
> information was picked up and used in some service manuals published by
> others.  I have an old Haynes that shows 90 as an approved lubricant. It
> came with an OD-equipped MGB when I bought the car.  I changed all fluids
> as soon as I got the car, including changing to 90 from whatever nasty
> sludge was in the OD at the time, and it worked fine until air temp
> dropped below about 60degrees F.
>   Sad to say, that erronious information is still out there in some old
> books.
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:12:07 -0500 Charles & Peggy Robinson
> <ccrobins at ktc.com> writes:
>
> snip
>>
>>    Also, why would they use 90W gear lube when it's expressly
>> prohibited?
>>
>>    CR
> _______________________________________________

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 15 07:08:35 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 06:08:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Obvious solution: was: Re: LE Wheel paint [now: subject rant]
In-Reply-To: <c02.1d5ba059.33f3a922@aol.com>
Message-ID: <371151.81798.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It may seem a silly idea but I can tell you what I do.
 My e-mail handler has a 'Delete' button!  Works
great!

rick :-P


--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 8/14/2007 5:10:20 PM Mountain
> Daylight Time,
> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes:
> 
> This  would
> have the added benefit of not annoying people
> interested in the  ostensible
> subject having to do with LE  wheels.
> 
> Sheesh...
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max  Heim
> 
> 
> 
> No problem Max, I boxed up the wheels and sent them
> out this  afternoon to
> you freight collect.  Enjoy...you don't even have to
> say thank  you.  I threw
> in
> the three wire wheel covers too.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Robert B. Houston
> 63 TR4
> 74.5 MGBGT
> 73 MG  Midget
> 
> b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot
> the corkscrew  and for
> several days we had to live on nothing but food and
> water. W. C  Fields
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peek of the all-new AOL at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From frankk at intap.net  Wed Aug 15 07:13:37 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 09:13:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Obvious solution: was: Re: LE Wheel paint [now: subject
 rant]
References: <371151.81798.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006701c7df3e$17258610$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

Actually since I have  a 1980 LE I read every posting that mentins LE in the 
subject line! Keep em coming! Love them LE postings!
Frank Swamp Yankee" Krajewski

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 9:08 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Obvious solution: was: Re: LE Wheel paint [now: subject rant]


> It may seem a silly idea but I can tell you what I do.
> My e-mail handler has a 'Delete' button!  Works
> great!
>
> rick :-P
>
>
> --- RampantNM at aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 8/14/2007 5:10:20 PM Mountain
>> Daylight Time,
>> max_heim at sbcglobal.net writes:
>>
>> This  would
>> have the added benefit of not annoying people
>> interested in the  ostensible
>> subject having to do with LE  wheels.
>>
>> Sheesh...
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Max  Heim
>>
>>
>>
>> No problem Max, I boxed up the wheels and sent them
>> out this  afternoon to
>> you freight collect.  Enjoy...you don't even have to
>> say thank  you.  I threw
>> in
>> the three wire wheel covers too.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Robert B. Houston
>> 63 TR4
>> 74.5 MGBGT
>> 73 MG  Midget
>>
>> b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot
>> the corkscrew  and for
>> several days we had to live on nothing but food and
>> water. W. C  Fields
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ************************************** Get a sneak
>> peek of the all-new AOL at
>> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
>> _______________________________________________
>> rolindsay at yahoo.com

From info at worldclassiccars.net  Wed Aug 15 08:26:42 2007
From: info at worldclassiccars.net (wcc)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 15:26:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1949 MG TC RESTORED TO SHOW QUALITY
Message-ID: <022501c7df48$4d0fd0f0$0201a8c0@WORLDCARS>

1949 MG TC RESTORED TO SHOW QUALITY GREEN w/ GREEN int. 4 CYLINDER 12,737mi. 4
SPD., Absolutely stunning! A show quality example in traditional English
colors with 22 years of receipts. Equipped with boot, top, side curtains &
tonneau. Special equipment Alfin drums, alloy valve cover, original jack, fog
lamp, badges, and Brooklands wheel. ?33,750 Euro`s

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Aug 15 12:08:10 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 14:08:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Radiator for sale
Message-ID: <E1ILNII-0002tk-CE@epsilon.look.ca>

I have a D&D Fabrications brass/copper heavy duty radiator for 
sale.  It is 18" by 18.5" high.  Used for 5k kilometers.  Anyone 
interested before I eBay it?

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From guinness at stclegal.com  Wed Aug 15 12:20:45 2007
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 13:20:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] John Twist videos
Message-ID: <46C343FD.4030206@stclegal.com>

Paul Root wrote:

University Motors has begun making videos of little maintenance chores.

The latest is front hubs for the 'B.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJYXZtnliw&sdig=1

He makes it look very easy.

Reply:

Maybe we should follow John's lead and post videos "answers" to some of the lists questions, with a link to the list whenever possible --  maybe even link a video of the "question".  As a novice, a moving picture is worth a terabyte of words.  They give me confidence that I am doing it right.

-- 
Robert Guinness

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Wed Aug 15 12:36:39 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 14:36:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1187200801.3713.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF92B9687F.E71252EA-ON85257338.006414FA-85257338.00662E24@exxonmobil.com>

The viscosity and other properties of 20W50 motor oil and 80W90 gear oil
are very similar.  At 40 C (104 F),  80W90 gear oil (Esso Marvelube) has a
viscosity of 149 cSt and 20W50 motor oil (Esso Extra) is 153 cSt.  At 100 C
(212 F) gear oil is 16 cSt and motor oil is 17 cSt.  Density (887 vs 880
kg/m3) and pour point (-30 vs -24 C) are also very similar.

The reason for different weights, 20W50 compared to 80W90, yet similar
viscosities at given temperatures, is because gear oil and motor oil have
different grading  systems.

So use either 20W50 motor oil or 80W90 gear oil in your MGBs transmission,
either will work fine, at least that's what I believe.

Mark Jones
73 MGBGT
80 Spitfire

From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil

  Why would anyone use 90W gear lube....?

  MG at one time issued a Tech Service Bulletin that said 90w could be
used.  About a month later that TSB was rescinded, but that bad information
was picked up and used in some service manuals published by others.  I have
an old Haynes that shows 90 as an approved lubricant. It came with an
OD-equipped MGB when I bought the car.  I changed all fluids as soon as I
got the car, including changing to 90 from whatever nasty sludge was in the
OD at the time, and it worked fine until air temp dropped below about
60degrees F.
   Sad to say, that erronious information is still out there in some old
books.
Bob

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Aug 15 12:49:08 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 11:49:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <OF92B9687F.E71252EA-ON85257338.006414FA-85257338.00662E24@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874DAF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Mark:

Thank you for the succinct response. I was trying to compose something
similar and gave up.

Much of the arguing about what oil to use is based on the misconception
that 90W gear oil has a lot higher viscosity than say 20/50 engine oil
and will jam up the gubbins of the transmission. It won't.

There are a lot of variances for each type of lubricant, but the
differences are more subtle than most people understand.



Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> mark.jones at exxonmobil.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 11:37 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
>
> The viscosity and other properties of 20W50 motor oil and 80W90 gear
oil
> are very similar.  At 40 C (104 F),  80W90 gear oil (Esso Marvelube)
has a
> viscosity of 149 cSt and 20W50 motor oil (Esso Extra) is 153 cSt.  At
100
> C
> (212 F) gear oil is 16 cSt and motor oil is 17 cSt.  Density (887 vs
880
> kg/m3) and pour point (-30 vs -24 C) are also very similar.
>
> The reason for different weights, 20W50 compared to 80W90, yet similar
> viscosities at given temperatures, is because gear oil and motor oil
have
> different grading  systems.
>
> So use either 20W50 motor oil or 80W90 gear oil in your MGBs
transmission,
> either will work fine, at least that's what I believe.
>
> Mark Jones
> 73 MGBGT
> 80 Spitfire
>
> From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
>
>   Why would anyone use 90W gear lube....?
>
>   MG at one time issued a Tech Service Bulletin that said 90w could be
> used.  About a month later that TSB was rescinded, but that bad
> information
> was picked up and used in some service manuals published by others.  I
> have
> an old Haynes that shows 90 as an approved lubricant. It came with an
> OD-equipped MGB when I bought the car.  I changed all fluids as soon
as I
> got the car, including changing to 90 from whatever nasty sludge was
in
> the
> OD at the time, and it worked fine until air temp dropped below about
> 60degrees F.
>    Sad to say, that erronious information is still out there in some
old
> books.
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Wed Aug 15 14:18:57 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 13:18:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
Message-ID: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is this an
ok use for the list?  I would think that private car sales/wanted if
it's MGs would be fine, but not ok for commercial businesses.  Any
opinions?




>>> "wcc" <info at worldclassiccars.net> 8/15/2007 7:26:42 AM >>>
1949 MG TC RESTORED TO SHOW QUALITY GREEN w/ GREEN int. 4 CYLINDER
12,737mi. 4
SPD., Absolutely stunning! A show quality example in traditional
English
colors with 22 years of receipts. Equipped with boot, top, side
curtains &
tonneau. Special equipment Alfin drums, alloy valve cover, original
jack, fog
lamp, badges, and Brooklands wheel. ?33,750 Euro`s

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Aug 15 14:24:29 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 14:24:29 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
In-Reply-To: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
References: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12ABE@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Funny you should mention this. I have received three of these today and
was wondering why. A check of the email header indicates they are not
from the list. At least not directly. But our email addresses may very
well have been harvested from it.

I don't mind these emails outside of the list but there should be a
provision at the bottom to be removed from future mailings.

I didn't get the MG TC one but did get a 72B, priced in euros although
it appears to be a Colorado car with Colorado plates.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of DON SCOTT
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 2:19 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list

Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is this an
ok use for the list?  I would think that private car sales/wanted if
it's MGs would be fine, but not ok for commercial businesses.  Any
opinions?




>>> "wcc" <info at worldclassiccars.net> 8/15/2007 7:26:42 AM >>>
1949 MG TC RESTORED TO SHOW QUALITY GREEN w/ GREEN int. 4 CYLINDER
12,737mi. 4
SPD., Absolutely stunning! A show quality example in traditional
English
colors with 22 years of receipts. Equipped with boot, top, side
curtains &
tonneau. Special equipment Alfin drums, alloy valve cover, original
jack, fog
lamp, badges, and Brooklands wheel. ?33,750 Euro`s

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Wed Aug 15 14:42:48 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 15:42:48 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
In-Reply-To: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
References: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <20070815204306.847041879D4@autox.team.net>

At 01:18 PM 8/15/2007 -0700, DON SCOTT wrote:
>Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is 
>this an ok use for the list? ....

I'm on it.  I have already received three ad messages from this 
source.  Apparently the mgs list is somehow being spammed by 
info at worldclassiccars.net.  This is not supposed to be possible 
without the source being subscribed to the list.

I have contacted them and have received a prompt reply.  First reply 
says my personal address is not on their maiiling list, but in fact 
the messages were addressed to mgs at autox.team.net.  I have told them 
this is a mailing list where commercial ads are forbidden, and please 
remove this address from their mailing list.  If their cooperation is 
as good as their first response we may have relief soon.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Wed Aug 15 14:57:01 2007
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 16:57:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
In-Reply-To: <20070815204306.847041879D4@autox.team.net>
References: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
	<20070815204306.847041879D4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <46C3689D.4010906@tampabay.rr.com>

Good on you, Barney
Dave

Barney Gaylord wrote:

>At 01:18 PM 8/15/2007 -0700, DON SCOTT wrote:
>  
>
>>Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is 
>>this an ok use for the list? ....
>>    
>>
>
>I'm on it.  I have already received three ad messages from this 
>source.  Apparently the mgs list is somehow being spammed by 
>info at worldclassiccars.net.  This is not supposed to be possible 
>without the source being subscribed to the list.
>
>I have contacted them and have received a prompt reply.  First reply 
>says my personal address is not on their maiiling list, but in fact 
>the messages were addressed to mgs at autox.team.net.  I have told them 
>this is a mailing list where commercial ads are forbidden, and please 
>remove this address from their mailing list.  If their cooperation is 
>as good as their first response we may have relief soon.
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
>http://MGAguru.com
>_______________________________________________
>mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Aug 15 21:52:01 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 21:52:01 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
In-Reply-To: <OF92B9687F.E71252EA-ON85257338.006414FA-85257338.00662E24@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Nice information. I have to confess that I did run 90W gear oil in my B
transmission for a year or so back in the 80s. This was because it had
started to leak and I thought the heavier oil would not leak as much
until I could get it fixed. The transmission survived and gave me
another 20 years of service after that (unfortunately it is now in my
garage and needs to be rebuilt).

Still the properties cited are critical. I have had 90w gear oil
solidify in my Landcruiser transmission when temperatures got to -30 F.
I had to hold the clutch down for about five minutes or so after the car
started until the shaft could turn, even in neutral. That was also about
20 years ago - the Landcruiser survived and still has the original
clutch and runs well. And I now have had the fortune of having a house
with a three stall heated garage for the past 15 years.

-30 C is -22F whereas -24 C is -11F. Usually we don't see temperatures
much cooler than -20 F where I live in Montana but minus teens are
common during cold spells. I usually use 10-40w in the winter though and
it should have an even lower pour point.

I don't drive my MGs anymore when it is below zero F. Starting gets iffy
at that point and I have to scrape ice off the inside of the windshield
while I'm driving, even with the heat on.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
74 Toyota Landcruiser
01 Land Rover Discovery II
03 Volvo S60

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of mark.jones at exxonmobil.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 12:37 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive oil

The viscosity and other properties of 20W50 motor oil and 80W90 gear oil
are very similar.  At 40 C (104 F),  80W90 gear oil (Esso Marvelube) has
a
viscosity of 149 cSt and 20W50 motor oil (Esso Extra) is 153 cSt.  At
100 C
(212 F) gear oil is 16 cSt and motor oil is 17 cSt.  Density (887 vs 880
kg/m3) and pour point (-30 vs -24 C) are also very similar.

The reason for different weights, 20W50 compared to 80W90, yet similar
viscosities at given temperatures, is because gear oil and motor oil
have
different grading  systems.

So use either 20W50 motor oil or 80W90 gear oil in your MGBs
transmission,
either will work fine, at least that's what I believe.

Mark Jones
73 MGBGT
80 Spitfire

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug 16 03:10:47 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:10:47 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mechanical cooling fan
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874D8E@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <00d301c7dfe6$c75ab070$0200a8c0@Three>

Thanks Kelvin.  It's actually clearer in the Moss catalogue than the Leyland 
Catalogue that a spacer needs to be added to the 3-blade fan when used with 
the 18V water pump.  I'll be seeing if I can get hold of one somewhere, but 
whether a breaker will be willing to sell one separate from the fan and 
pulley remains to be seen.  Getting one the right size will be the next 
challenge, although I can make a guess that it will be between 2 and 3 cm 
long.

Paul.

----- Original Message ----- 
The pulley was changed at the same time and a spacer was required to get
the UK 3 blade fan close enough to the radiator to work properly.... 

From frankk at intap.net  Thu Aug 16 04:58:46 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 06:58:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  ads on the list
Message-ID: <001a01c7dff4$6b1067c0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
To: "DON SCOTT" <rowdon at sonoma-county.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] ads on the list


>I received the same ads and wondered about their origin. Curious about the 
>list rules on this. What are they? Are there any policies?
> Frank Krajewski
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "DON SCOTT" <rowdon at sonoma-county.org>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 4:18 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
>
>
>> Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is this an
>> ok use for the list?  I would think that private car sales/wanted if
>> it's MGs would be fine, but not ok for commercial businesses.  Any
>> opinions?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>> "wcc" <info at worldclassiccars.net> 8/15/2007 7:26:42 AM >>>
>> 1949 MG TC RESTORED TO SHOW QUALITY GREEN w/ GREEN int. 4 CYLINDER
>> 12,737mi. 4
>> SPD., Absolutely stunning! A show quality example in traditional
>> English
>> colors with 22 years of receipts. Equipped with boot, top, side
>> curtains &
>> tonneau. Special equipment Alfin drums, alloy valve cover, original
>> jack, fog
>> lamp, badges, and Brooklands wheel. ?33,750 Euro`s
>> _______________________________________________

From frankk at intap.net  Thu Aug 16 06:42:20 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (Frank)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 08:42:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  ads on the list
References: <001a01c7dff4$6b1067c0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
	<020301c7dff5$88495f80$0201a8c0@WORLDCARS>
Message-ID: <005701c7e002$e2db7ca0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>

You should be admonished for using a hobbyist's list for advancing your own 
greedy capitalist motives. You are not providing any service since your 
prices are quite exorbitant. Read the forum today and you will see all the 
complaints. Shame on you!
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "wcc" <info at worldclassiccars.net>
To: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw: ads on the list


> Hello Frank
>
> My name is marcos i posted the ad for the mgtc, im a bit confused to your 
> obsession regarding a simple email ad posted on a classic car mailing 
> list, i could understand if i was posting adverts for viagra on a car 
> list, but it makes me laugh and scream at the same time. i find it hard to 
> believe that instead of reading my ad and just erasing it if you have no 
> interest you seem to be making a huge issue out of it. From where im 
> standing all you are doing is making yourself out to be an anorach, its as 
> if you actually enjoy it.If you have no interest in such a superb MG then 
> why are you a member on this list other than to bicker about other 
> postings.
>
> If this list is for MG enthusiasts only where better place to offer an mg 
> first than to the enthusiasts on this list.
>
> Im lost for words to describe your actions, petty, rediculous, bordem, all 
> ring a bell.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
> To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 11:58 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] Fw: ads on the list
>
>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Frank" <frankk at intap.net>
>> To: "DON SCOTT" <rowdon at sonoma-county.org>
>> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:57 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] ads on the list
>>
>>
>>>I received the same ads and wondered about their origin. Curious about 
>>>the
>>>list rules on this. What are they? Are there any policies?
>>> Frank Krajewski
>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>> From: "DON SCOTT" <rowdon at sonoma-county.org>
>>> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 4:18 PM
>>> Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
>>>
>>>
>>>> Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is this 
>>>> an
>>>> ok use for the list?  I would think that private car sales/wanted if
>>>> it's MGs would be fine, but not ok for commercial businesses.  Any
>>>> opinions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> "wcc" <info at worldclassiccars.net> 8/15/2007 7:26:42 AM >>>
>>>> 1949 MG TC RESTORED TO SHOW QUALITY GREEN w/ GREEN int. 4 CYLINDER
>>>> 12,737mi. 4
>>>> SPD., Absolutely stunning! A show quality example in traditional
>>>> English
>>>> colors with 22 years of receipts. Equipped with boot, top, side
>>>> curtains &
>>>> tonneau. Special equipment Alfin drums, alloy valve cover, original
>>>> jack, fog
>>>> lamp, badges, and Brooklands wheel. ?33,750 Euro`s
>>>> _______________________________________________
>> _______________________________________________
>> info at worldclassiccars.net

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Thu Aug 16 06:59:32 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 13:59:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6A7@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Frank is not alone on the MG mailing list in his views on commercial
postings such as yours.

The mailing list exists as a forum for enthusiasts to provide advice,
support and a community for each other.  It does not exist as a handy
ready-made audience for commercial advertising.  If we permitted one
company to use the board for their advertising purposes, we would have
to permit any MG-related company to do so, with the result that the
mailing list would become dominated by advertising and would lose its
whole purpose.

We do have an active member who is an employee of a major parts
supplier.  His participation is tolerated and welcomed because he has
much good advice to give, and NEVER pushes his company's products,
rarely even mentioning them unless directly asked to.

When you signed up, you should have had the opportunity to check out
this page:
http://autox.team.net/www/corp-use.html
I quote:
"Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional mention
external services, if a company wants to do business on the net, they
should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. Many readers
do not want to see commercial advertisements on the mailing lists, and
will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". "

I am copying the webmaster in on this message.  If you do not choose to
stop sending messages advertising cars for sale, I would ask him to
remove you from the mailing list.


Richard Gosling
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
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return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use
or dissemination of this message in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
transmission of the information contained in this communication nor for any
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guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
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Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
7770 19)
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Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
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(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
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Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 16 07:31:36 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 08:31:36 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6A7@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <00ea01c7e009$c6597f30$6401a8c0@Larry>

This same guy was doing this on another list until stopped.

Evidently, he thinks these lists are here as a source for free advertising 
for his business interests.  I agree that he should be stopped immediately.

Larry Daniels



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling at penspen.com>
To: <info at worldclassiccars.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:59 AM
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)


Frank is not alone on the MG mailing list in his views on commercial
postings such as yours.

The mailing list exists as a forum for enthusiasts to provide advice,
support and a community for each other.  It does not exist as a handy
ready-made audience for commercial advertising.  If we permitted one
company to use the board for their advertising purposes, we would have
to permit any MG-related company to do so, with the result that the
mailing list would become dominated by advertising and would lose its
whole purpose.

We do have an active member who is an employee of a major parts
supplier.  His participation is tolerated and welcomed because he has
much good advice to give, and NEVER pushes his company's products,
rarely even mentioning them unless directly asked to.

When you signed up, you should have had the opportunity to check out
this page:
http://autox.team.net/www/corp-use.html
I quote:
"Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional mention
external services, if a company wants to do business on the net, they
should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. Many readers
do not want to see commercial advertisements on the mailing lists, and
will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". "

I am copying the webmaster in on this message.  If you do not choose to
stop sending messages advertising cars for sale, I would ask him to
remove you from the mailing list.


Richard Gosling

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Aug 16 08:14:01 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:14:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <00ea01c7e009$c6597f30$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6A7@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
	<00ea01c7e009$c6597f30$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <20070816141505.F0BB91879FA@autox.team.net>

I still think we should make a concentrated email attack - fill his 
email directory with dumb senseless questions and requests for 
information!  If I get 10 "go go" responses I will organise!


At 09:31 AM 8/16/2007, Larry Daniels wrote:
>This same guy was doing this on another list until stopped.
>
>Evidently, he thinks these lists are here as a source for free advertising
>for his business interests.  I agree that he should be stopped immediately.
>
>Larry Daniels
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling at penspen.com>
>To: <info at worldclassiccars.net>
>Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:59 AM
>Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
>
>
>Frank is not alone on the MG mailing list in his views on commercial
>postings such as yours.
>
>The mailing list exists as a forum for enthusiasts to provide advice,
>support and a community for each other.  It does not exist as a handy
>ready-made audience for commercial advertising.  If we permitted one
>company to use the board for their advertising purposes, we would have
>to permit any MG-related company to do so, with the result that the
>mailing list would become dominated by advertising and would lose its
>whole purpose.
>
>We do have an active member who is an employee of a major parts
>supplier.  His participation is tolerated and welcomed because he has
>much good advice to give, and NEVER pushes his company's products,
>rarely even mentioning them unless directly asked to.
>
>When you signed up, you should have had the opportunity to check out
>this page:
>http://autox.team.net/www/corp-use.html
>I quote:
>"Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional mention
>external services, if a company wants to do business on the net, they
>should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. Many readers
>do not want to see commercial advertisements on the mailing lists, and
>will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". "
>
>I am copying the webmaster in on this message.  If you do not choose to
>stop sending messages advertising cars for sale, I would ask him to
>remove you from the mailing list.
>
>
>Richard Gosling
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Aug 16 08:29:47 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 09:29:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <20070816141505.F0BB91879FA@autox.team.net>
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6A7@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
	<00ea01c7e009$c6597f30$6401a8c0@Larry>
	<20070816141505.F0BB91879FA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <46C45F5B.2060809@gmail.com>

Just have Mark ban him.

Vigilantism really doesn't solve anything. And your stooping to his level.

I have the knowledge and ability with several systems to bombard someone 
with email, filling
up disks and causing mayhem. What would that do, except make me the bad guy.


Barrie Robinson wrote:
> I still think we should make a concentrated email attack - fill his 
> email directory with dumb senseless questions and requests for 
> information!  If I get 10 "go go" responses I will organise!
>
>
> At 09:31 AM 8/16/2007, Larry Daniels wrote:
>   
>> This same guy was doing this on another list until stopped.
>>
>> Evidently, he thinks these lists are here as a source for free advertising
>> for his business interests.  I agree that he should be stopped immediately.
>>
>> Larry Daniels
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling at penspen.com>
>> To: <info at worldclassiccars.net>
>> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:59 AM
>> Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
>>
>>
>> Frank is not alone on the MG mailing list in his views on commercial
>> postings such as yours.
>>
>> The mailing list exists as a forum for enthusiasts to provide advice,
>> support and a community for each other.  It does not exist as a handy
>> ready-made audience for commercial advertising.  If we permitted one
>> company to use the board for their advertising purposes, we would have
>> to permit any MG-related company to do so, with the result that the
>> mailing list would become dominated by advertising and would lose its
>> whole purpose.
>>
>> We do have an active member who is an employee of a major parts
>> supplier.  His participation is tolerated and welcomed because he has
>> much good advice to give, and NEVER pushes his company's products,
>> rarely even mentioning them unless directly asked to.
>>
>> When you signed up, you should have had the opportunity to check out
>> this page:
>> http://autox.team.net/www/corp-use.html
>> I quote:
>> "Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional mention
>> external services, if a company wants to do business on the net, they
>> should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. Many readers
>> do not want to see commercial advertisements on the mailing lists, and
>> will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". "
>>
>> I am copying the webmaster in on this message.  If you do not choose to
>> stop sending messages advertising cars for sale, I would ask him to
>> remove you from the mailing list.
>>
>>
>> Richard Gosling
>> _______________________________________________
>> barrie at look.ca
>>
>> Edit your replies
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>>     
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> barrie at look.ca
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 16 08:54:44 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 09:54:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  (no subject)
Message-ID: <010501c7e015$62e33160$6401a8c0@Larry>

Evidently, Marcos doesn't like it when somebody disapproves of his hijacking 
the list for his business interests.

Sorry, Marcos, we call that spam.  Next you will be trying to sell us some 
Viagra.  Take it somewhere else.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "wcc" <info at worldclassiccars.net>
To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] (no subject)


stopped immediately are you guys for real or simply aliens its an email for
christ sake get a life


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling at penspen.com>; <info at worldclassiccars.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] (no subject)


> This same guy was doing this on another list until stopped.
>
> Evidently, he thinks these lists are here as a source for free advertising
> for his business interests.  I agree that he should be stopped
> immediately.
>
> Larry Daniels
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling at penspen.com>
> To: <info at worldclassiccars.net>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:59 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
>
>
> Frank is not alone on the MG mailing list in his views on commercial
> postings such as yours.
>
> The mailing list exists as a forum for enthusiasts to provide advice,
> support and a community for each other.  It does not exist as a handy
> ready-made audience for commercial advertising.  If we permitted one
> company to use the board for their advertising purposes, we would have
> to permit any MG-related company to do so, with the result that the
> mailing list would become dominated by advertising and would lose its
> whole purpose.
>
> We do have an active member who is an employee of a major parts
> supplier.  His participation is tolerated and welcomed because he has
> much good advice to give, and NEVER pushes his company's products,
> rarely even mentioning them unless directly asked to.
>
> When you signed up, you should have had the opportunity to check out
> this page:
> http://autox.team.net/www/corp-use.html
> I quote:
> "Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional mention
> external services, if a company wants to do business on the net, they
> should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. Many readers
> do not want to see commercial advertisements on the mailing lists, and
> will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". "
>
> I am copying the webmaster in on this message.  If you do not choose to
> stop sending messages advertising cars for sale, I would ask him to
> remove you from the mailing list.
>
>
> Richard Gosling

From schultejim at msn.com  Thu Aug 16 09:11:25 2007
From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 11:11:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  (no subject)
References: <010501c7e015$62e33160$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <BAY116-DAV165A482575F706F0F62A40DBDF0@phx.gbl>

If you have a personal car about to go on ebay and you want to give listers a
shot, great. Even a friends or Club members car ok. But, for personal profit
as a business... Go someplace else for that.
Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008

From jltinkham at tds.net  Thu Aug 16 09:17:10 2007
From: jltinkham at tds.net (Jim Tinkham)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:17:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 JAGUAR XK 150 3.4 OTS ROADSTER
In-Reply-To: <200708161414.l7GEErQP013628@mattbradley.dnsmaster.net>
Message-ID: <20070816101710.FVMXT.283063.root@webfep11>

Cease.  If I receive one more email from you or your domain I wil sue.

J Tinkham

---- info at worldclassiccars.net wrote: 

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug 16 10:09:18 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 09:09:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mechanical cooling fan
In-Reply-To: <00d301c7dfe6$c75ab070$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874F04@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Paul:

I've got one of the supercharger kit ones coming over this morning to
measure. I've also got some original ones somewhere that came off
Marinas.

I'll get you a measurement.


Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 2:11 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net; MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mechanical cooling fan
>
> Thanks Kelvin.  It's actually clearer in the Moss catalogue than the
> Leyland
> Catalogue that a spacer needs to be added to the 3-blade fan when used
> with
> the 18V water pump.  I'll be seeing if I can get hold of one
somewhere,
> but
> whether a breaker will be willing to sell one separate from the fan
and
> pulley remains to be seen.  Getting one the right size will be the
next
> challenge, although I can make a guess that it will be between 2 and 3
cm
> long.
>
> Paul.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> The pulley was changed at the same time and a spacer was required to
get
> the UK 3 blade fan close enough to the radiator to work properly....

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Aug 16 10:43:41 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 11:43:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] I guess I'm being taught a lesson
Message-ID: <46C47EBD.9000401@gmail.com>

So,

    I've suddenly received about 10 requests for verification to leave 
this list, and a similar number to
remind me what my password is.

    This shortly after I sent a reply to the abuse email of Marcos or 
whoever that spammer was.

    I've already set his domain as junk and I never see it. So this is 
his way at getting back at me, I
guess.

    He claims to have 37 years experience in these cars. So I'm going to 
have to put his age older than
that. Too bad he acts like a 13 year old punk kid trying to teach the 
internet a lesson.

    I've sent mail to Mark to get him thrown off. We'll see if that works.

Paul.

From jltinkham at tds.net  Thu Aug 16 10:53:47 2007
From: jltinkham at tds.net (Jim Tinkham)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 11:53:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] I guess I'm being taught a lesson
In-Reply-To: <46C47EBD.9000401@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20070816115347.BIE7Q.287080.root@webfep11>

Alas, I to am being shown his "power".  Having received numerous validation 
requests for email letters and mags after my note to him.  Unfortunately for him 
some of them refer to where the request came from and others are willing to back 
track the request.  It will soon provable at the legal definition of harassment. 
 
Too bad for Marcos... 
 
JT 

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug 16 11:06:05 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:06:05 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6A7@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874F2F@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing any more.



K.



>
> We do have an active member who is an employee of a major parts
> supplier.  His participation is tolerated and welcomed because he has
> much good advice to give, and NEVER pushes his company's products,
> rarely even mentioning them unless directly asked to.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 16 11:33:06 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:33:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874F2F@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <400760.10269.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Kelvin, you are squeaky-clean in this issue.  Thank
you.

rick

--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing
> any more.
> 
> 
> 
> K.

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Aug 16 11:35:55 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:35:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <400760.10269.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874F2F@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<400760.10269.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5b0769cb0708161035g67f861e8qd7df7d414faf6c63@mail.gmail.com>

I agree. I would classify Kelvin as indispensable as opposed to tolerated.



On 8/16/07, Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Kelvin, you are squeaky-clean in this issue.  Thank
> you.
>
> rick
>
> --- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
> > Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing
> > any more.
> >
> >
> >
> > K.
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From lrc at red4est.com  Thu Aug 16 12:29:27 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 11:29:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Acceleration problem
In-Reply-To: <002701c7db02$72f058c0$6501a8c0@pat>
References: <002701c7db02$72f058c0$6501a8c0@pat>
Message-ID: <20070816182927.GB10845@red4est.com>

On Thu, Aug 09, 2007 at 08:56:34PM -0700, Pat Leask wrote:
# My 1800cc motor runs flat at a specific spot when accelerating and I've run
# out of ideas.. HELP!
# The problem is when accelerating it goes fine until ONE SPECIFIC SPOT where
# it flattens out. Speed is maintained but no more acceleration, you can hear
# and feel it wanting more of something, like a high speed miss. There is a
# "Sweet spot" on the throttle where it will or will not do this, very
# definitive.

You may want to consider mounting a wideband O2 sensor and guage (I
assume that you;re running unleaded gas), to see what your mixture is
doing when this happens. If you see it going lean or rich, that'll
give you an idea of where to look.

-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 16 13:03:51 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:03:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  ads on the list
In-Reply-To: <005701c7e002$e2db7ca0$8242040a@RIC.RICOL.EDU>
Message-ID: <102154.22196.qm@web42110.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Frank <frankk at intap.net> wrote:

> You should be admonished for using a hobbyist's list for advancing
> your own greedy capitalist motives. 

Greedy capitalist motives?!?  You wouldn't happen to be a
Sociology professor would you, Frank?  :-)


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat? 
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. 
http://tv.yahoo.com/

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Aug 15 17:42:10 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 19:42:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
In-Reply-To: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
References: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <E1ILkwU-00016u-GX@alpha.look.ca>

I thought there was a jumble list - things to sell list - but it 
never seems to work for me.  I reckon it would be great if one could 
list the bits ad pieces that one wishes to dispose of at very 
reasonable prices.



At 04:18 PM 8/15/2007, DON SCOTT wrote:
>Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is this an
>ok use for the list?  I would think that private car sales/wanted if
>it's MGs would be fine, but not ok for commercial businesses.  Any
>opinions?
>
>
>
>
> >>> "wcc" <info at worldclassiccars.net> 8/15/2007 7:26:42 AM >>>
>1949 MG TC RESTORED TO SHOW QUALITY GREEN w/ GREEN int. 4 CYLINDER
>12,737mi. 4
>SPD., Absolutely stunning! A show quality example in traditional
>English
>colors with 22 years of receipts. Equipped with boot, top, side
>curtains &
>tonneau. Special equipment Alfin drums, alloy valve cover, original
>jack, fog
>lamp, badges, and Brooklands wheel. ?33,750 Euro`s
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Aug 15 17:49:16 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 19:49:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
In-Reply-To: <20070815204306.847041879D4@autox.team.net>
References: <s6c2fd4a.087@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
	<20070815204306.847041879D4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E1ILkwY-00016u-Bi@alpha.look.ca>

   If they repeat - I suggest we get together and blast their "info" address !!


At 04:42 PM 8/15/2007, Barney Gaylord wrote:
>At 01:18 PM 8/15/2007 -0700, DON SCOTT wrote:
> >Are there any rules about using the list for advertising?  Or is
> >this an ok use for the list? ....
>
>I'm on it.  I have already received three ad messages from this
>source.  Apparently the mgs list is somehow being spammed by
>info at worldclassiccars.net.  This is not supposed to be possible
>without the source being subscribed to the list.
>
>I have contacted them and have received a prompt reply.  First reply
>says my personal address is not on their maiiling list, but in fact
>the messages were addressed to mgs at autox.team.net.  I have told them
>this is a mailing list where commercial ads are forbidden, and please
>remove this address from their mailing list.  If their cooperation is
>as good as their first response we may have relief soon.
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
>http://MGAguru.com
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 16 13:32:44 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 14:32:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C874F2F@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c7e03c$7139c720$3d01000a@Garage.local>

we NEED kelvin!!!!!!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
To: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling at penspen.com>; <info at worldclassiccars.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] (no subject)


> Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing any more.
> 
> 
> 
> K.
> 
> 
> 
>>
>> We do have an active member who is an employee of a major parts
>> supplier.  His participation is tolerated and welcomed because he has
>> much good advice to give, and NEVER pushes his company's products,
>> rarely even mentioning them unless directly asked to.
> _______________________________________________

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 16 13:59:01 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 14:59:01 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel Paint
Message-ID: <01bd01c7e03f$e553bbe0$6401a8c0@Larry>

John, et al.,

I just got back from taking an LE wheel to Bill at Tower Paint.  He said mine
might be too far worn/oxidized to get an accurate reading to match the
original color.  He will be gone for a couple days, but I will go back in the
middle of next week to see what he can do with it.  I have another wheel with
some of the clear coat still on that might reveal a better sample once the
clear is removed.

I did order a spray can of paint for touch up on my Austin A60 pickup and they
are getting $16.95 a can.  I'm sure one spray can should do 4 wheels w/o a
problem.

I'll let you know what he comes up with when I get back to him next week.



Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From barrie at look.ca  Thu Aug 16 13:46:46 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:46:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] I guess I'm being taught a lesson
In-Reply-To: <20070816115347.BIE7Q.287080.root@webfep11>
References: <46C47EBD.9000401@gmail.com>
	<20070816115347.BIE7Q.287080.root@webfep11>
Message-ID: <E1ILlsI-0002rt-EM@alpha.look.ca>

Oh my good heavens!  What a shame that this chap did not take the 
approach "Sorry guys if I did wrong - I apologise".  Then he would 
have been welcomed back into the fold.  Now he is the target of scorn 
and derision and undoubtable will lose business - even beyond our large base.

As for his 'retaliation' - is he mad?  With our collection of 
computer gurus he could be made very uncomfortable.  But then he is 
already uncomfortable !!


At 12:53 PM 8/16/2007, Jim Tinkham wrote:
>Alas, I to am being shown his "power".  Having received numerous validation
>requests for email letters and mags after my note to 
>him.  Unfortunately for him
>some of them refer to where the request came from and others are 
>willing to back
>track the request.  It will soon provable at the legal definition of 
>harassment.
>
>Too bad for Marcos...
>
>JT
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 16 14:32:58 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 13:32:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <002c01c7e03c$7139c720$3d01000a@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <84257.85113.qm@web42106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> we NEED kelvin!!!!!!

It's hard to measure color temperature without it.

But Kelvin is also highly valued.

:-)

David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Thu Aug 16 15:06:11 2007
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:06:11 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
Message-ID: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com>

Now I'm angry. He's still spamming the list except now he's doing it in a  
Large, Bold Type! Can't this guy be cut off at the server? Please! I don't  
think he's even part of our MG family, is he? The guy is like a used car  salesman 
on steroids!
Help! Who is the list administrator now..It's no longer Rick I guess...  
could someone with some pull get rid of this
nuisance..Please!  
Albert Escalante 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Aug 16 15:23:50 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:23:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
In-Reply-To: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com>
References: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Earlier I reported that I had received three of these but they did not
come from the list, at least directly. I stand by that. A check of the
archives indicates that he only sent one email directly to the list, the
MG-TC one. The headers on the other two indicated they were sent direct
to me and NOT through the list. However, in checking the archives, I
noticed that subscribers to the list can easily obtain a list of all the
email addresses of the list (306 at present) and that appears to be what
he has done. So cutting him off the server and our list will have no
affect at this point but Mark may have to take out the option of
subscriber's access to a listing of everyone's email (granted they are
in the format of "username at domain", a simple edit/replace program can
restore the emails to the correct format).

I haven't seen anymore of his email since this morning (4 hours or so
ago) but that doesn't mean anything.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Aeseeyou at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 3:06 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list

Now I'm angry. He's still spamming the list except now he's doing it in
a
Large, Bold Type! Can't this guy be cut off at the server? Please! I
don't
think he's even part of our MG family, is he? The guy is like a used car
salesman
on steroids!
Help! Who is the list administrator now..It's no longer Rick I guess...

could someone with some pull get rid of this
nuisance..Please!
Albert Escalante

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Thu Aug 16 16:26:33 2007
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:26:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <46C4CF19.2040805@snet.net>

I get so much spam now that maybe I'm missing this.  What is it?  
Perhaps my filters are nailing him?

Councill, David wrote:

>Earlier I reported that I had received three of these but they did not
>come from the list, at least directly. I stand by that. A check of the
>archives indicates that he only sent one email directly to the list, the
>MG-TC one. The headers on the other two indicated they were sent direct
>to me and NOT through the list. However, in checking the archives, I
>noticed that subscribers to the list can easily obtain a list of all the
>email addresses of the list (306 at present) and that appears to be what
>he has done. So cutting him off the server and our list will have no
>affect at this point but Mark may have to take out the option of
>subscriber's access to a listing of everyone's email (granted they are
>in the format of "username at domain", a simple edit/replace program can
>restore the emails to the correct format).
>
>I haven't seen anymore of his email since this morning (4 hours or so
>ago) but that doesn't mean anything.
>
>David Councill
>67 BGT
>72 B

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 16 16:34:57 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:34:57 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  ads on the list
Message-ID: <cd8.172ef743.33f62b11@aol.com>

Cheese and Crackers guys...Hitler, Hitler, Hitler.......

I got one email about an overpriced MG from the idiot Marcos and now 20 are
so complaining about the mail and what a jerk Marcos is.  My delete finger  is
getting tired.

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 16 16:39:05 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:39:05 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
Message-ID: <c22.1bd026d6.33f62c09@aol.com>

Me too, or even overpriced stuff we could ignore.

By the way, I have most of a 77 MGB I want to part out.  Please  contact me
off list.  No reasonable offer refused.

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From melfrankus at carolina.rr.com  Thu Aug 16 16:57:36 2007
From: melfrankus at carolina.rr.com (melfrankus at carolina.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:57:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
In-Reply-To: <46C4CF19.2040805@snet.net>
References: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<46C4CF19.2040805@snet.net>
Message-ID: <c40ccbea5ba2f.5ba2fc40ccbea@southeast.rr.com>

I think the people who got all the span made the "msitake" of replying 
to a phony email sent to all the list.  The phony email requested 
reciepients to verify soe list information...Mel

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
Date: Thursday, August 16, 2007 3:26 pm
Subject: Re: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
To: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net

> I get so much spam now that maybe I'm missing this.  What is it?  
> Perhaps my filters are nailing him?
> 
> Councill, David wrote:
> 
> >Earlier I reported that I had received three of these but they 
> did not
> >come from the list, at least directly. I stand by that. A check 
> of the
> >archives indicates that he only sent one email directly to the 
> list, the
> >MG-TC one. The headers on the other two indicated they were sent 
> direct>to me and NOT through the list. However, in checking the 
> archives, I
> >noticed that subscribers to the list can easily obtain a list of 
> all the
> >email addresses of the list (306 at present) and that appears to 
> be what
> >he has done. So cutting him off the server and our list will have no
> >affect at this point but Mark may have to take out the option of
> >subscriber's access to a listing of everyone's email (granted 
> they are
> >in the format of "username at domain", a simple edit/replace 
> program can
> >restore the emails to the correct format).
> >
> >I haven't seen anymore of his email since this morning (4 hours 
> or so
> >ago) but that doesn't mean anything.
> >
> >David Councill
> >67 BGT
> >72 B
> _______________________________________________
> melfrankus at carolina.rr.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 16 19:52:04 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 20:52:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 38
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9686.1187303720.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9686.1187303720.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EB428B12-6758-4925-A980-27264F961D72@sbcglobal.net>

David is right.  I'm on the digest and the spam everyone seems to be  
referring to didn't come here -- just all the angry responses.  If  
you have the ability to bounce the emails back, do it.
On Aug 16, 2007, at 5:35 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Earlier I reported that I had received three of these but they did not
> come from the list, at least directly. I stand by that.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 16 19:54:10 2007
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 21:54:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
References: <c22.1bd026d6.33f62c09@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

List,

I ran across a '77 MGB today that has a Weber downdraft carb fitted. I am 
totally unfamiliar with this animal. Can someone direct me to a site that 
has information on it?

This car has not been run for a number of years and, although I got it 
running, it's very rough. The engine will accelerate smoothly but not hold 
any steady speed, idle or otherwise, without severe missing. Since the Weber 
appears to have an accelerator pump, it would appear that the fuel 
"injected" by this pump is the reason it runs better when blipping the 
throttle.

Comments on this Weber conversion?

Any help very much appreciated.

TIA,

Ed Woods 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Aug 16 22:12:29 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 21:12:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
In-Reply-To: <003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <c22.1bd026d6.33f62c09@aol.com>
	<003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10708162112y312a1434i89b495bfd22d302d@mail.gmail.com>

Ed,
The carb is probably a 32/36DGV series.  A very common conversion in the mid
to late 1980s for post 1975 Bs, and Spitfires.  When set up properly IMHO it
is far superior to the Penis Stromberg the car came with.
The running condition you are describing sounds like there may be a vacuum
leak somewhere.  Before tearing the carb apart, check for vacuum leaks, and
remedy those first.
Once you are sure there are no vacuum leaks, then set the float level on the
carb before you go any further.  There are two different settings, one for a
brass float, and one for a composition float.  It's been 25 years since I
had my hands on a DGV and I just don't recall the specifications any
longer.  Sorry.  15mm and 45 mm seems to ring a bell, but I will be damned
if I can recall which float this is for, or even if it is for a DGV, or a
DCOE.
One thing that is different about DGV from a carb on an American car is that
the screw that you would consider a mixture screw for idle isn't.  It is an
air corrector screw.  With the proper idle jets installed, it should be
about 1 turn out from fully closed for best operation.  If you have to go
much over or under 1 turn to get a good idle, you have the wrong size idle
jet in the carb.
If you have any specific questions, I will be happy to answer them to the
best of my ability.
Good Luck
Rick

On 8/16/07, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> List,
>
> I ran across a '77 MGB today that has a Weber downdraft carb fitted. I am
> totally unfamiliar with this animal. Can someone direct me to a site that
> has information on it?
>
> This car has not been run for a number of years and, although I got it
> running, it's very rough. The engine will accelerate smoothly but not hold
> any steady speed, idle or otherwise, without severe missing. Since the
> Weber
> appears to have an accelerator pump, it would appear that the fuel
> "injected" by this pump is the reason it runs better when blipping the
> throttle.
>
> Comments on this Weber conversion?
>
> Any help very much appreciated.
>
> TIA,
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Aug 16 23:26:11 2007
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charles & Peggy Robinson)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 00:26:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
In-Reply-To: <003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <c22.1bd026d6.33f62c09@aol.com>
	<003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <46C53173.9080509@ktc.com>

   It's a Weber DGV carb; a 2-stage 2-barrel.  Moss used to sell the 
conversion kit, which consisted of the carb, intake manifold, air filter 
and associated hardware.  I had one on a '70B.  It ran very smooth and 
started well in cold weather due to it's electrically actuated choke. 
Didn't quite have the power of the twin carb setup.

   CR


> I ran across a '77 MGB today that has a Weber downdraft carb fitted. I am 
> totally unfamiliar with this animal. Can someone direct me to a site that 
> has information on it?

From james.nazarian at gmail.com  Fri Aug 17 00:36:51 2007
From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 02:36:51 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
In-Reply-To: <46C53173.9080509@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <004a01c7e098$ff7c5e60$6400a8c0@theendindeed>

Not sure if this goes for the DGVs, but the DCOEs fitted to MGs often had
the wrong choke tubes in them so they wouldn't run right until you swapped
them out.  The DCOEs share just a few bodies, but use interchangeable choke
tubes and jets to adjust the carburetor to different engine sizes.  There
are a couple of books that are all about tuning and operating Weber carbs.
Haynes, HP Books, and Speedpro each publish one.  One of them had tables in
it for jet and choke sizes as well as other setup information for just about
any application you could ever bolt the carbs to.  Many of the drivability
problems associated with Weber carbs stem from the carb not being setup for
the engine it is bolted to.  If the car ever ran well with this carb, I'd
start with cleaning it.  If it never ran right, I'd track those specs down
and make sure the carb is setup for the right engine.  Unfortunately I don't
remember which book had the info.  I think it was the Haynes, but I'm not
sure.  

Hope that helps,
James Nazarian



?> I ran across a '77 MGB today that has a Weber downdraft carb 
?fitted. I 
?> am totally unfamiliar with this animal. Can someone direct me to a 
?> site that has information on it?
tox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 02:24:06 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:24:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
References: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6A7@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com><00ea01c7e009$c6597f30$6401a8c0@Larry><20070816141505.F0BB91879FA@autox.team.net>
	<46C45F5B.2060809@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <07bc01c7e0a8$0cbf2710$0200a8c0@Three>

Speaking of which, is this list now moderated?  As in someone vetting 
submissions before allowing them through?  I'm getting stuff, but not all 
the stuff I send comes back from the list.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Just have Mark ban him.

From mjanacek at snet.net  Fri Aug 17 04:07:16 2007
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 06:07:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel Paint
References: <01bd01c7e03f$e553bbe0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <00da01c7e0b6$66179640$174afc40@DESKTOP>

NFI, but I have nothing but praise for Tower Paint.
I ordered 6 cans of Inca yellow back in 2003 @ $12.95 ea. and still have 2 
left.
The match was perfect.
I've used them for various touch ups and painting my ST airdam, which took 
about half a can.
When I ordered they wouldn't guarantee shelf life but I've found it to be 
exceptional.

Mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: <John.Hed at faa.gov>; "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel Paint


> John, et al.,
>
> I just got back from taking an LE wheel to Bill at Tower Paint.  He said 
> mine
> might be too far worn/oxidized to get an accurate reading to match the
> original color.  He will be gone for a couple days, but I will go back in 
> the
> middle of next week to see what he can do with it.  I have another wheel 
> with
> some of the clear coat still on that might reveal a better sample once the
> clear is removed.
>
> I did order a spray can of paint for touch up on my Austin A60 pickup and 
> they
> are getting $16.95 a can.  I'm sure one spray can should do 4 wheels w/o a
> problem.
>
> I'll let you know what he comes up with when I get back to him next week.
>
>
>
> Larry Daniels
>
> 79 MGB LE
> 60 Bugeye
> 67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)
>
> "You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
> doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
> shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."

From mjanacek at snet.net  Fri Aug 17 04:22:50 2007
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 06:22:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
References: <c22.1bd026d6.33f62c09@aol.com>
	<003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <00e901c7e0b8$9578e180$174afc40@DESKTOP>

Ed,
Try here if you haven't already:
http://www.webercarburetors.com/

Has some tech sheets for the DGV and others.

HTH,
Mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Woods" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 9:54 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info


> List,
>
> I ran across a '77 MGB today that has a Weber downdraft carb fitted. I am
> totally unfamiliar with this animal. Can someone direct me to a site that
> has information on it?
>
> This car has not been run for a number of years and, although I got it
> running, it's very rough. The engine will accelerate smoothly but not hold
> any steady speed, idle or otherwise, without severe missing. Since the 
> Weber
> appears to have an accelerator pump, it would appear that the fuel
> "injected" by this pump is the reason it runs better when blipping the
> throttle.
>
> Comments on this Weber conversion?
>
> Any help very much appreciated.
>
> TIA,
>
> Ed Woods

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Aug 17 05:15:16 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 07:15:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
Message-ID: <20070817.081032.3076.6.MGBOB@juno.com>

Paul,
   I noticed more stiffness in the shift when I changed from 20-50 to 30,
following John Esposito's advice.  After a few minutes of driving, the
difference is gone, but the first couple of gear changes at 20 degrees F
are stiff.
   What gearbox was used in the V8 cars?
Bob



On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 13:58:02 +0100 "Paul Hunt"
<paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> writes:
> I've heard that before, and about it making the manual gear change 
> very 
> difficult in cold weather.  90 gear oil is specified for the V8, is 
> what 
> mine has, and has never been a problem even when parked outside 
> below 
> freezing.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >  MG at one time issued a Tech Service Bulletin that said 90w could 
> be
> > used.  ... and it worked fine until air temp
> > dropped below about 60degrees F.

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 17 07:03:44 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 06:03:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
In-Reply-To: <003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The DGV (and DGAV with automatic choke) is a great
little carb but it is NOT the power solution.  It is
the ease and reliability solution.  I've used them a
couple of times on MGs and Spritfires where the PO had
done conversions, leaving the SU (or Z-S) solution
economically nonviable.  Because of the accelerator
pump, the DGVs are really reliable and quick starters
in cold weather.  The DOWN side is that a lot of
'conversion kits' have been sold and moved
indescriminately from car to car.  That usually leaves
the carb jetted completely wrong for the application. 
They also get rebuilt by ham-fisted pseudo-mechanics
with blunt screwdrivers who clean the jets and tubes
with drill bits and worse!  If it appears that your
DGV has been monkeyed with inside, take a good look at
the jets and tubes to see if they have scratches or
deformations.  I have tried to replace jets, tubes,
etc. working up from a clean casting and have NEVER
gotten a DGV to perform like a new one.  I don't know
why (despite my ham-fists, blunt screwdrivers and
pseudo-skills). :-o  The last engine I rebuilt was a
'76 Midget and it ended up with a NEW DGV.  It went
from hard-to-start and poor performance to starting
and running fantastic!  But remember, a pair of sweet
SUs is still a better setup.

rick
'70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer - with sweet SUs

--- Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:

> List,
> 
> I ran across a '77 MGB today that has a Weber
> downdraft carb fitted. I am 
> totally unfamiliar with this animal. Can someone
> direct me to a site that 
> has information on it?
> 
> This car has not been run for a number of years and,
> although I got it 
> running, it's very rough. The engine will accelerate
> smoothly but not hold 
> any steady speed, idle or otherwise, without severe
> missing. Since the Weber 
> appears to have an accelerator pump, it would appear
> that the fuel 
> "injected" by this pump is the reason it runs better
> when blipping the 
> throttle.
> 
> Comments on this Weber conversion?
> 
> Any help very much appreciated.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ed Woods 
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From frankk at intap.net  Fri Aug 17 07:24:52 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:24:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
References: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <003e01c7e0d2$03d3bab0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>

David: You are correct. His emails are not coming via the list but directly 
to my email address. Since this began 2 days ago I have been inundated with 
his ads for cars. Perhaps he is wreaking vengeance. Am I the only one 
receiving all these ads? Just got one this morning for a Chevy! Not even an 
LBC!
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: <Aeseeyou at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list


> Earlier I reported that I had received three of these but they did not
> come from the list, at least directly. I stand by that. A check of the
> archives indicates that he only sent one email directly to the list, the
> MG-TC one. The headers on the other two indicated they were sent direct
> to me and NOT through the list. However, in checking the archives, I
> noticed that subscribers to the list can easily obtain a list of all the
> email addresses of the list (306 at present) and that appears to be what
> he has done. So cutting him off the server and our list will have no
> affect at this point but Mark may have to take out the option of
> subscriber's access to a listing of everyone's email (granted they are
> in the format of "username at domain", a simple edit/replace program can
> restore the emails to the correct format).
>
> I haven't seen anymore of his email since this morning (4 hours or so
> ago) but that doesn't mean anything.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Aeseeyou at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 3:06 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
>
> Now I'm angry. He's still spamming the list except now he's doing it in
> a
> Large, Bold Type! Can't this guy be cut off at the server? Please! I
> don't
> think he's even part of our MG family, is he? The guy is like a used car
> salesman
> on steroids!
> Help! Who is the list administrator now..It's no longer Rick I guess...
>
> could someone with some pull get rid of this
> nuisance..Please!
> Albert Escalante
> _______________________________________________

From frankk at intap.net  Fri Aug 17 07:34:58 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:34:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Postings
Message-ID: <005e01c7e0d3$68ac1da0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>

Has the list been reconfigured so that we do not receive our own postings any
longer? In the past whenever I would post I would receive a copy like all the
other members but now I don't. I know others are receiving my posts since I
see the responses to them. Do I need to change a setting? Thanks.
Frank Krajewski

From jltinkham at tds.net  Fri Aug 17 08:10:24 2007
From: jltinkham at tds.net (Jim Tinkham)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 9:10:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
In-Reply-To: <003e01c7e0d2$03d3bab0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
Message-ID: <20070817091024.GCKJD.316397.root@webfep11>

I was but have eliminated the problem.  I suggest investigating your or your ISPs junk/spam mail capabilities.

JT

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 08:11:23 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:11:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Postings
References: <005e01c7e0d3$68ac1da0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
Message-ID: <00a301c7e0d8$de15b1f0$0200a8c0@Three>

I'm sure that's not the case as I'm still 'getting my own back' for some 
messages. However I'm not getting them back for all of them, and neither am 
I seeing any responses to them either, which makes me think *no-one* is 
getting them.  You could say that maybe no-one is interested enough in them 
to reply and for some you could be right.  But for one I'm chasing I really 
can't believe that is the case.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Has the list been reconfigured so that we do not receive our own postings 
> any
> longer? 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 08:03:24 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:03:24 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <20070817.081032.3076.6.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <00a101c7e0d8$ddce21a0$0200a8c0@Three>

Basically the same design as in the 4-cylinder cars, but with different 
ratios and a different casing.

I've been trying to post a response re 30 wt oil but for some reason the 
list is refusing to send it out.  I'll be sending some test messages to try 
and find out why, my apologies in advance ... that is if the list processes 
*this* message!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   I noticed more stiffness in the shift when I changed from 20-50 to 30,
> following John Esposito's advice.  After a few minutes of driving, the
> difference is gone, but the first couple of gear changes at 20 degrees F
> are stiff.
>   What gearbox was used in the V8 cars?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 08:13:22 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:13:22 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <00a401c7e0d8$de396690$0200a8c0@Three>

Test reply

----- Original Message ----- 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 08:13:45 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:13:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <00a501c7e0d8$de588750$0200a8c0@Three>

Test reply 2

----- Original Message ----- 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 08:14:32 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:14:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <00ac01c7e0d8$f1f7dfe0$0200a8c0@Three>

Test reply 3

----- Original Message ----- 
> This thread reminded me of this article.

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 17 08:17:04 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:17:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
References: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008501c7e0d9$49b6cbb0$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>

<SNIP>
 The last engine I rebuilt was a
'76 Midget and it ended up with a NEW DGV.  It went
from hard-to-start and poor performance to starting
and running fantastic!  But remember, a pair of sweet
SUs is still a better setup.

rick
'70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer - with sweet SUs

--------------------------

Let's not forget that the Weber now comes in a 38/38 non-progressive version 
in addition to the old 32/36 progressive.  I doubt that the stock SUs would 
have any performance advantage over the 38s.

Larry Daniels (with a 38/38 equipped B) 

From jltinkham at tds.net  Fri Aug 17 08:23:19 2007
From: jltinkham at tds.net (Jim Tinkham)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 9:23:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Postings
In-Reply-To: <00a301c7e0d8$de15b1f0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <20070817092319.WX3FY.317000.root@webfep11>

Frank - There is a configuration item on the server.  Maybe yours got set wrong.  You can get into your account from the link at the bottom of any message from the list.

Paul - can't explain why yours is intermittent.

JT

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Fri Aug 17 08:59:41 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:59:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
In-Reply-To: <008501c7e0d9$49b6cbb0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <151378.6961.qm@web82315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<008501c7e0d9$49b6cbb0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <46C5B7DD.8060001@gmail.com>

The problem is air flow. The air has to:
1. come in the air cleaner
2. make a 90 degree turn down
3. go through the carb, pick up fuel
4. make a 90 degree turn forward and back
5, make another 90 degree turn toward the engine.
6. enter the head and through the valves.

Compared to an SU, with stock air cleaners:

1. Come into the air cleaner.
2. curve through a 90 degree turn into the carb.
3. go through the carb, pick up fuel
4. Go in the head and through the valves.

Also, 1.5 in is 38mm. 

Get your car on a dyno, and see. 

I'll bet, at best, you'll get the same, making all else equal.


Larry Daniels wrote:
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
>
> <SNIP>
>  The last engine I rebuilt was a
> '76 Midget and it ended up with a NEW DGV.  It went
> from hard-to-start and poor performance to starting
> and running fantastic!  But remember, a pair of sweet
> SUs is still a better setup.
>
> rick
> '70 MGB Split-bumper Tourer - with sweet SUs
>
> --------------------------
>
> Let's not forget that the Weber now comes in a 38/38 non-progressive version 
> in addition to the old 32/36 progressive.  I doubt that the stock SUs would 
> have any performance advantage over the 38s.
>
> Larry Daniels (with a 38/38 equipped B) 
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 17 09:07:19 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:07:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Postings
References: <005e01c7e0d3$68ac1da0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
Message-ID: <089701c7e0e0$4f1634e0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<Has the list been reconfigured so that we do not receive our own postings
any
longer? >>

As I run several Lists from my site with the same program as Mark, I'll try to
answer a few of the questions you gents are asking<G>!!

First, for above (Frank):  Maybe yes and maybe no.  LOL

All of you should visit YOUR registration page.  The address is at the bottom
of EVERY List post.

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

There IS an option for the answer to that exact question.

Second(Paul)

<<However I'm not getting them back for all of them, and neither am
I seeing any responses to them either, which makes me think *no-one* is
getting them.>>

I strongly suspect the reason is that this list (just like Healeys) is set to
a max size of message to 3000 bytes.  The Healeys List is begging for larger
but I know not if that has been changed.

>From MailMan as Mark has set-up (FWIW & FTI):
********************************************************************
Note that much of the following can also be accomplished via the World
Wide Web, at:

    http://intermountainvintage.org/mailman/listinfo/mailman

In particular, you can use the Web site to have your password sent to
your delivery address.
*************************************************************************

HTH

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 09:21:28 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:21:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <013701c7e0e2$4fe90350$0200a8c0@Three>

Part 2:

See these comments from the designer of the MGB overdrive (and gearbox and
axle) who by chance I met recently:

"As you know all oil changes viscosity with temperature, under normal
operating conditions, the Gearbox/Overdrive designer (ME!) calculates the
beam forces on all the gear teeth, all shear forces and every stress on the
shafting and bearings.  In order for the mechanics to function correctly,
the oil has to be within certain viscosity parameters to withstand these
calculated forces, hence the selection of the oil viscosity range. Oil also
provides a very important function in dissipating heat which is generated in
the gearbox mechanism. It is NOT recommended to use a straight 30 grade oil,
this oil is generally used only for simple lubrication work, i.e.
carburettor dampers. All overdrives are designed to be switched in or out
with the power on or off.  The change quality is worse on "over-run out" due
to the inertia forces on the clutches. You will notice that when the oil is
cold, the "shift quality" will be slightly slower and "softer" as the oil is
thicker. When the oil is hot, then the overdrive changes will be quicker and
a little more sharp. This is perfectly normal. You can "tune" the shift
quality if required but that's another story.  The main vehicle drive clutch
should NOT be used when operating the overdrive.  If the change quality is
that bad that when changing you have to "damp" it by feathering the
throttle, then something is wrong with the overdrive, most possibly a
sticking hydraulic valve caused by dirty oil."

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 09:21:00 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:21:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive oil
References: <C2E5E525.125B3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net><00cc01c7de50$ab73c730$0200a8c0@Three>
	<46C219A7.5080700@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <013601c7e0e2$4fc527a0$0200a8c0@Three>

Part 1:

Words, almost, fail me.  Quite apart from the cringe and vomit-making
comments about 'amazing your friends with your warp gear' are we really
expected to have any confidence in the technical ability of someone who
writes "Shift *in* (my emphasis) to overdrive and then accelerate into the
great beyond"?  This person hasn't the faintest idea what he is talking
about.  I can't believe that anyone would use one non-standard oil and say
that because it gives higher pressures than the recommended oil it must be
better, then try another and say because it gives even higher pressures it
must be bad!  The author is simply using the facts to suit his hypothesis,
something which science does all to often these days.  Does he really think
Laycock designed the overdrive without knowing the pressures using engine
oil?  The Leyland Workshop Manual gives pressures of 540 to 560 psi for the
D-type OD, 400 to 420 for the LH in the 4-cylinder, and 510 to 530 for the
LH in the V8, which is specified to use 90 gear oil.  These pressures are as
a result of the relief valve opening at the design pressure, they aren't the
maximum possible that the pump
generates.  The higher pressure in the V8 compared to the 4-cylinder LH is
down to different relief valve and clutch springs.   Did they try 20W/50?
Even 15W/40 is like water by
comparison, let alone 10W/40.   One could say the author was writing about
A-type overdrives which may well be different
to D- and LH-type.  If they are *that* different then at best the article is
irrelevant to any other type of OD, but given the other statements it is
utter rubbish.

As for people here it is all 'might' and 'could', doesn't the fact that tens
of millions of miles in millions of cars worldwide with negligible problems
count for anything?

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 17 09:33:11 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:33:11 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
References: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<003e01c7e0d2$03d3bab0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
Message-ID: <08d901c7e0e3$ebc988c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

I'll offer up something here also<G>!!

Frank wrote:  Am I the only one receiving all these ads?

The answer is no, Frank.

Although a PITA and time comsuming anybody can get an indivual email adress of
a poster.

Now what follows only applies directly to O.E. I'm sure there is also a way in
other client programs.

Simply right click on a "mail" listed in your "folder" and select "Add sender
to address book".  Or if you want all the info, open the "mail", hilite
"sender's name", right click and select "Add sender..." then full address book
opens and to can edit the info displayed.

HTH!

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Aug 17 09:40:08 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:40:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
In-Reply-To: <20070817091024.GCKJD.316397.root@webfep11>
References: <003e01c7e0d2$03d3bab0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
	<20070817091024.GCKJD.316397.root@webfep11>
Message-ID: <40b437200708170840x5e830181l15ca2e3600b6ceb6@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/17/07, Jim Tinkham <jltinkham at tds.net> wrote:
> I was but have eliminated the problem.  I suggest investigating your or your ISPs junk/spam mail capabilities.


I suggest complaining to the sender's ISP. But be careful to make sure
you correctly identify the source of the emails

Simon

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 17 09:32:12 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:32:12 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Postings
References: <005e01c7e0d3$68ac1da0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
	<089701c7e0e0$4f1634e0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <016701c7e0e5$a3d64650$0200a8c0@Three>

Eureka (if one can say that in response to someone else's solution)!  That 
is the problem, I was trying to post 3.6k.

Thanks,
Paul.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I strongly suspect the reason is that this list (just like Healeys) is set 
> to
> a max size of message to 3000 bytes. 

From info at worldclassiccars.net  Fri Aug 17 09:53:01 2007
From: info at worldclassiccars.net (wcc)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:53:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
Message-ID: <042901c7e0e6$b11ebcb0$0201a8c0@WORLDCARS>

Some of you are obviously receiving emails that you should not be, send your
email address and they will be removed, it is quite easy for anyone to enter
someone elses email address into a mailing list.

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Aug 17 10:22:49 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 09:22:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] ads on the list
In-Reply-To: <042901c7e0e6$b11ebcb0$0201a8c0@WORLDCARS>
References: <042901c7e0e6$b11ebcb0$0201a8c0@WORLDCARS>
Message-ID: <40b437200708170922h7858b2aak11fc8a25fac9dc91@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/17/07, wcc <info at worldclassiccars.net> wrote:
> Some of you are obviously receiving emails that you should not be, send your
> email address and they will be removed, it is quite easy for anyone to enter
> someone elses email address into a mailing list.

Firstly, if you control the mailing list, entering other people's
names into it is classic spamming.

Properly set up mailing lists don't allow email addresses to be added
without confirmation. For example, one can't add someone else's email
address into any of the autox.team.net mailing lists.

Secondly, "opt-out" -- ie lists on which you get into without any
action and you have to take action to remove yourself is another
classic sign of spamming.

The proper advice for years now has been to never opt-out of a
spammer's list because:
1. You probably won't be removed
2. You just made your email address more valuable to the spammer, so
he may sell it to other spammers.

I am not claiming that you would do the above, but if you behave like
a spammer, you must expect people to treat you like a spammer.

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Fri Aug 17 11:41:10 2007
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 13:41:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The jerk is spamming the list
In-Reply-To: <08d901c7e0e3$ebc988c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
References: <c0b.1b1c2c70.33f61643@aol.com><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AC5@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<003e01c7e0d2$03d3bab0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
	<08d901c7e0e3$ebc988c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <46C5DDB6.6050704@snet.net>

This guy's spam has not been annoying me in part because of the way in 
which I manage my mail filters.  I have then set up to allow in to my 
folders if they are somehow approved.  That is, if you're on my "good" 
lists (one of several) you get through to my folders that I customarily 
look at.  If you're not on that list, you stay up in the inbox, where 
it's easier for me to see who the rascals are and then I can filter or 
junk them in more expedient ways.  Works pretty well for me.

WJHS1960 wrote:

>I'll offer up something here also<G>!!
>
>Frank wrote:  Am I the only one receiving all these ads?
>
>The answer is no, Frank.
>
>Although a PITA and time comsuming anybody can get an indivual email adress of
>a poster.
>
>Now what follows only applies directly to O.E. I'm sure there is also a way in
>other client programs.
>
>Simply right click on a "mail" listed in your "folder" and select "Add sender
>to address book".  Or if you want all the info, open the "mail", hilite
>"sender's name", right click and select "Add sender..." then full address book
>opens and to can edit the info displayed.
>
>HTH!
>_______________________________________________
>james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From frankk at intap.net  Fri Aug 17 12:32:35 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 14:32:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Postings
References: <005e01c7e0d3$68ac1da0$c88a0fce@D3N5Y331>
	<089701c7e0e0$4f1634e0$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <000801c7e0fc$ff07cc30$108a0fce@D3N5Y331>

I went to my registration page and noted that the option to receive my own 
postings was checked "yes". Still don't receive them altho as long as they 
make it to the list I am ok with that.
Frank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WJHS1960" <WJHS1960 at comcast.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Postings


> <<Has the list been reconfigured so that we do not receive our own 
> postings
> any
> longer? >>
>
> As I run several Lists from my site with the same program as Mark, I'll 
> try to
> answer a few of the questions you gents are asking<G>!!
>
> First, for above (Frank):  Maybe yes and maybe no.  LOL
>
> All of you should visit YOUR registration page.  The address is at the 
> bottom
> of EVERY List post.
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> There IS an option for the answer to that exact question.
>
> Second(Paul)
>
> <<However I'm not getting them back for all of them, and neither am
> I seeing any responses to them either, which makes me think *no-one* is
> getting them.>>
>
> I strongly suspect the reason is that this list (just like Healeys) is set 
> to
> a max size of message to 3000 bytes.  The Healeys List is begging for 
> larger
> but I know not if that has been changed.
>
>>From MailMan as Mark has set-up (FWIW & FTI):
> ********************************************************************
> Note that much of the following can also be accomplished via the World
> Wide Web, at:
>
>    http://intermountainvintage.org/mailman/listinfo/mailman
>
> In particular, you can use the Web site to have your password sent to
> your delivery address.
> *************************************************************************
>
> HTH
> _______________________________________________

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Fri Aug 17 20:00:35 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:00:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] turn signal
Message-ID: <009701c7e13b$91087880$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>

just a fast question concerning my passenger side turn signal indicator on my
71 MGB that is not working  .  Bulb checks out to be o.k. rear and driver side
indicators work fine, although blinking faster than normal,  emergency
blinkers work although not the passenger side. I'm thinking the relay is bad?
any suggestion?

From mjanacek at snet.net  Fri Aug 17 20:07:20 2007
From: mjanacek at snet.net (Mike Janacek)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:07:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] turn signal
References: <009701c7e13b$91087880$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <006201c7e13c$853244e0$174afc40@DESKTOP>

The first check is the ground from the non-working lamp unit.

Mike
'79B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 10:00 PM
Subject: [Mgs] turn signal


> just a fast question concerning my passenger side turn signal indicator on 
> my
> 71 MGB that is not working  .  Bulb checks out to be o.k. rear and driver 
> side
> indicators work fine, although blinking faster than normal,  emergency
> blinkers work although not the passenger side. I'm thinking the relay is 
> bad?
> any suggestion?

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 17 20:24:29 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 19:24:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] turn signal
In-Reply-To: <009701c7e13b$91087880$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <985849.85708.qm@web51912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

First thing to do is clean all connections in the area (In fact, do both sides). As Mike said, I think it is a bad connection either to the lamp or the ground.
  Carl

1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:
  just a fast question concerning my passenger side turn signal indicator on my
71 MGB that is not working . Bulb checks out to be o.k. rear and driver side
indicators work fine, although blinking faster than normal, emergency
blinkers work although not the passenger side. I'm thinking the relay is bad?
any suggestion?
_______________________________________________
leylandauto at yahoo.com

Edit your replies
       
---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 

From Steve at shoyer.com  Fri Aug 17 21:06:37 2007
From: Steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 23:06:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG/Rover Day at the Museum of Transportation in Brookline,
 MA  tomorrow
Message-ID: <97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B9B3@shoyerserver.shoyer.com>

Anyone going to the show tomorrow?  I'm planning to take my car for the
first time since it caught on fire, so please don't laugh when you see
it.  It's the green one that looks like the touch-up paint was applied
with a foam brush in a dark garage (just to set the record straight, the
lights were on in the garage at the time).

--Steve (1980 MGB)

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Fri Aug 17 22:48:41 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 23:48:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again
Message-ID: <46C67A29.4090105@wi.net>

Anyone know anything about this product?

http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2957


Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 18 06:48:12 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 07:48:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Spridgets] ZDDP again
References: <C2EBCAC8.F597%billyzoom@billyzoom.com>
Message-ID: <016801c7e196$0aeebab0$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Billy Zoom" <billyzoom at billyzoom.com>
To: "David Woerpel" <dwoerpel at wi.net>; "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>; 
"Spridgets" <Spridgets at autox.team.net>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] ZDDP again


This oil does contain the EP additive package ZDDP in percentages over 0.14%
which is at recommended levels to protect flat tappets
http://www.lubriplate.com/
_______________________________________________

Huh?  It specifically says "zinc free". 

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Aug 17 17:52:13 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 19:52:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] The horn button removal
Message-ID: <E1IMPQH-0001af-QY@gamma.look.ca>

Has anyone got a cute way of getting the logoed horn button out of 
the Moto-Lite steering wheel.  It has two springs which hold it in 
and I tried using a feeler gauge to push one of them  back but did not work.

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Sat Aug 18 09:22:44 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 11:22:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] turn signal
References: <009701c7e13b$91087880$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
	<006201c7e13c$853244e0$174afc40@DESKTOP>
Message-ID: <001c01c7e1ab$a04b5fe0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>

The ongoing sage of my passenger side turn signal not working is as follows,
I have a good switch (tested it),  I do not have power at the green wire by
the horn feeding power to the passenger site turn signal light, is there an
easy way to trace the green wire or what is it I'm missing.




> The first check is the ground from the non-working lamp unit.
>
> Mike
> '79B
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "1971-red-mgb" <1971mgb at cox.net>
> To: "MG LIST" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 10:00 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] turn signal
>
>
> > just a fast question concerning my passenger side turn signal indicator
on
> > my
> > 71 MGB that is not working  .  Bulb checks out to be o.k. rear and
driver
> > side
> > indicators work fine, although blinking faster than normal,  emergency
> > blinkers work although not the passenger side. I'm thinking the relay is
> > bad?
> > any suggestion?
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007
1:46 PM

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 18 09:30:21 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:30:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] turn signal
In-Reply-To: <001c01c7e1ab$a04b5fe0$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <481879.97859.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Keep scrolling here till you find your year;
  http://www.advanceautowire.com/mgb.pdf
   
  Take your time and good luck. Did you reclean all connections in the area?
  Carl

1971-red-mgb <1971mgb at cox.net> wrote:
  The ongoing sage of my passenger side turn signal not working is as follows,
I have a good switch (tested it), I do not have power at the green wire by
the horn feeding power to the passenger site turn signal light, is there an
easy way to trace the green wire or what is it I'm missing.



       
---------------------------------
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.

From lrc at red4est.com  Sat Aug 18 13:16:22 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 12:16:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] megasquirt
Message-ID: <20070818191608.GB1737@red4est.com>

Chatting about O2 sensors, fuel delivery etc...

does anyone on the list have any experience with megasquirt kits?

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From jmc987 at earthlink.net  Sat Aug 18 13:45:44 2007
From: jmc987 at earthlink.net (joseph cianciotti)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:45:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] She's alive! Almost.
Message-ID: <AF8A8666-93BC-4411-B738-1A26ECA8C344@earthlink.net>

Well, I fired up the MGB after its unplanned 20-month nap. And  
believe it or not, it started on the 2nd crank. Took it out on a  
shake-down cruise and everything is working just as it was. The only  
fly in the ointment that I can see, besides the coat of dust and dirt  
I'll wash off tomorrow, is the brake lights. They're not working.  
Since both are out, I'm assuming it's a connection problem. I looked  
under the dash and there's a loose bullet connector with a blue wire  
and no mate. Is it possible that this could be the cause? And if  
that's not the right connection, where should I be looking. Thanks in  
advance.

Joseph
'67 MGB Roadster

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun Aug 19 03:15:30 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:15:30 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] E-type slams into traffic light - it was not me
References: <00b401c7ddd6$9df64210$6401a8c0@RicksPC>
Message-ID: <046601c7e241$7eeafef0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Been on holiday till yesterday in France - so just got this news not from 
this newpaper.
My son told me, that the story tells there was something gone wrong in the 
repair process by the owner, so he lost control of this beauty.

Real pity though.

Cheers,

Hans 71 BGT


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Brown" <mgrick at mgcars.org.uk>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 8:20 PM
Subject: [Mgs] E-type slams into traffic light


> An Etype out for a sunday drive yesterday slammed into a traffic light in
> Holland - Pics here
> http://www.telegraaf.nl/binnenland/68886121/Zondags_ritje_eindigt_tegen_verke
> erslicht.html?p=9,1
>
> MG content: Thank God it wasn't an MG :)
>
> Rick

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Aug 19 10:31:03 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 10:31:03 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
In-Reply-To: <20070818191608.GB1737@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Last week I removed my exhaust system. But in the process, one of the
studs  on the exhaust manifold flange snapped. I first made a cut in the
remnant bolt so I could use a screw drive to remove it. Failing that, I
tried in EZ-out. But the bolt is securely frozen in place. Yes, I also
sprayed it over several days with penetrant, two kinds. Finally, I bored
a hole through the center of the bolt, from the initial EZ-out hole.
Gradually, in increased the hole up to 1/4". Now I am tapping the hole
again. But my carbon steel 5/16-18 tap is not making much headway. I
gave up for a few days and plan to resume the ordeal this afternoon.

Any suggestions? Maybe my Harbor Freight tap is not good enough? Any
suggestions on a cutting oil perhaps? I should mention that I am doing
this under the car. I was going to pull the exhaust manifold but being a
bit lazy and realizing that I couldn't find a better place to hold the
manifold, it seemed like it was best to do it in place.

I have a few more studs coming from Moss in a few days to complete the
job. Strange that the previous bolt appears to have molded itself in
place because it has only been maybe two years. But what is, is and
getting the bolt tapped is the main task at hand.

Hopefully some of you can reply before I resume the task in about 4
hours.


David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 10:47:28 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 09:47:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <20070818191608.GB1737@red4est.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10708190947i61c39a19r2bcefbe32162b515@mail.gmail.com>

Personally I would buy a top quality tap.  if you bust the tap off in the
manifold the cost of extraction will far exceed the cost of a quality tap.
Also according to this page
http://www.fairburyfastener.com/tap_drill_decimal_inch.htm the correct tap
drill for a 5/16-24 is an I which is .272" in diameter.  somewhat bigger
than a 1/4" drill.
Have you considered converting to bolts instead of studs?  I find them a lot
easier to work with.  YMMV of course.
Good luck,
Rick

On 8/19/07, Councill, David <dcouncill at msubillings.edu> wrote:
>
> Last week I removed my exhaust system. But in the process, one of the
> studs  on the exhaust manifold flange snapped. I first made a cut in the
> remnant bolt so I could use a screw drive to remove it. Failing that, I
> tried in EZ-out. But the bolt is securely frozen in place. Yes, I also
> sprayed it over several days with penetrant, two kinds. Finally, I bored
> a hole through the center of the bolt, from the initial EZ-out hole.
> Gradually, in increased the hole up to 1/4". Now I am tapping the hole
> again. But my carbon steel 5/16-18 tap is not making much headway. I
> gave up for a few days and plan to resume the ordeal this afternoon.
>
> Any suggestions? Maybe my Harbor Freight tap is not good enough? Any
> suggestions on a cutting oil perhaps? I should mention that I am doing
> this under the car. I was going to pull the exhaust manifold but being a
> bit lazy and realizing that I couldn't find a better place to hold the
> manifold, it seemed like it was best to do it in place.
>
> I have a few more studs coming from Moss in a few days to complete the
> job. Strange that the previous bolt appears to have molded itself in
> place because it has only been maybe two years. But what is, is and
> getting the bolt tapped is the main task at hand.
>
> Hopefully some of you can reply before I resume the task in about 4
> hours.
>
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 11:11:32 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 12:11:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <46C879C4.1010609@gmail.com>

Councill, David wrote:
> Last week I removed my exhaust system. But in the process, one of the
> studs  on the exhaust manifold flange snapped. I first made a cut in the
> remnant bolt so I could use a screw drive to remove it. Failing that, I
> tried in EZ-out. But the bolt is securely frozen in place. Yes, I also
> sprayed it over several days with penetrant, two kinds. Finally, I bored
> a hole through the center of the bolt, from the initial EZ-out hole.
> Gradually, in increased the hole up to 1/4". Now I am tapping the hole
> again. But my carbon steel 5/16-18 tap is not making much headway. I
> gave up for a few days and plan to resume the ordeal this afternoon.
>
> Any suggestions? Maybe my Harbor Freight tap is not good enough? Any
> suggestions on a cutting oil perhaps? I should mention that I am doing
> this under the car. I was going to pull the exhaust manifold but being a
> bit lazy and realizing that I couldn't find a better place to hold the
> manifold, it seemed like it was best to do it in place.
>
> I have a few more studs coming from Moss in a few days to complete the
> job. Strange that the previous bolt appears to have molded itself in
> place because it has only been maybe two years. But what is, is and
> getting the bolt tapped is the main task at hand.
>
> Hopefully some of you can reply before I resume the task in about 4
> hours.
If you can find a way to hold some Coca-Cola on that area, it's 
miraculous at things like this.

To Prevent a recurrence, I recommend using "Never-Seeze" or any other 
good copper grease on all exhaust fittings and fasteners.

-The Roxter
--

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Sun Aug 19 11:24:12 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 12:24:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
Message-ID: <001301c7e285$c318f930$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

One thing I like to use is a left handed drill bit.  Many times the heat and
vibration of the drilling will loosen the broken stud/bolt.  Even if it
doesn't, you thenhave a hole to tap.

Maynard

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 13:20:02 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:20:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<46C879C4.1010609@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008b01c7e295$f1c3e460$6501a8c0@actualshop>

Roxter:

<<If you can find a way to hold some Coca-Cola on that area, it's
miraculous at things like this.>>

Waste of time in this day and age.  40 years ago, maybe.

From blair at ifd.mv.com  Sun Aug 19 14:17:18 2007
From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 16:17:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <032b01c7e29d$f19364e0$e0637dc7@Terrafirma>

Dave,
I've had good luck with PB Blaster... but the key is to let is soak for a 
week. Failing that, I heat up broken studs cherry red with a propane torch 
and quench it quickly with water. If you have enough of the stud sticking 
out mig weld a bold to the end and back it out... key also the heat and 
quench with some good sharp bangs with a hammer.

Sounds like you are past that, having the tap hole in place. It's not too 
late to run to a hardware store and buy a non-offshore tap... don't forget 
1/2 turn in 1/4 turn out to clean the threads.

Blair


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 12:31 PM
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange


> Last week I removed my exhaust system. But in the process, one of the
> studs  on the exhaust manifold flange snapped. I first made a cut in the
> remnant bolt so I could use a screw drive to remove it. Failing that, I
> tried in EZ-out. But the bolt is securely frozen in place. Yes, I also
> sprayed it over several days with penetrant, two kinds. Finally, I bored
> a hole through the center of the bolt, from the initial EZ-out hole.
> Gradually, in increased the hole up to 1/4". Now I am tapping the hole
> again. But my carbon steel 5/16-18 tap is not making much headway. I
> gave up for a few days and plan to resume the ordeal this afternoon.
>
> Any suggestions? Maybe my Harbor Freight tap is not good enough? Any
> suggestions on a cutting oil perhaps? I should mention that I am doing
> this under the car. I was going to pull the exhaust manifold but being a
> bit lazy and realizing that I couldn't find a better place to hold the
> manifold, it seemed like it was best to do it in place.
>
> I have a few more studs coming from Moss in a few days to complete the
> job. Strange that the previous bolt appears to have molded itself in
> place because it has only been maybe two years. But what is, is and
> getting the bolt tapped is the main task at hand.
>
> Hopefully some of you can reply before I resume the task in about 4
> hours.
>
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
> _______________________________________________
> blair at ifd.mv.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 14:56:25 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:56:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
In-Reply-To: <032b01c7e29d$f19364e0$e0637dc7@Terrafirma>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<032b01c7e29d$f19364e0$e0637dc7@Terrafirma>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10708191356s27cd51d3yfac3a261822c743b@mail.gmail.com>

I would not suggest quenching a piece of cast iron only part of which is red
hot in water.  The thermal stress could break it in half.  A two piece
manifold would render the re-tapping of the hole moot, however it is
probably not a cost effective way to go about it.
Rick

On 8/19/07, Blair J. Weiss <blair at ifd.mv.com> wrote:
>
> Dave,
> I've had good luck with PB Blaster... but the key is to let is soak for a
> week. Failing that, I heat up broken studs cherry red with a propane torch
> and quench it quickly with water. If you have enough of the stud sticking
> out mig weld a bold to the end and back it out... key also the heat and
> quench with some good sharp bangs with a hammer.
>
> Sounds like you are past that, having the tap hole in place. It's not too
> late to run to a hardware store and buy a non-offshore tap... don't forget
> 1/2 turn in 1/4 turn out to clean the threads.
>
> Blair
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 12:31 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
>
>
> > Last week I removed my exhaust system. But in the process, one of the
> > studs  on the exhaust manifold flange snapped. I first made a cut in the
> > remnant bolt so I could use a screw drive to remove it. Failing that, I
> > tried in EZ-out. But the bolt is securely frozen in place. Yes, I also
> > sprayed it over several days with penetrant, two kinds. Finally, I bored
> > a hole through the center of the bolt, from the initial EZ-out hole.
> > Gradually, in increased the hole up to 1/4". Now I am tapping the hole
> > again. But my carbon steel 5/16-18 tap is not making much headway. I
> > gave up for a few days and plan to resume the ordeal this afternoon.
> >
> > Any suggestions? Maybe my Harbor Freight tap is not good enough? Any
> > suggestions on a cutting oil perhaps? I should mention that I am doing
> > this under the car. I was going to pull the exhaust manifold but being a
> > bit lazy and realizing that I couldn't find a better place to hold the
> > manifold, it seemed like it was best to do it in place.
> >
> > I have a few more studs coming from Moss in a few days to complete the
> > job. Strange that the previous bolt appears to have molded itself in
> > place because it has only been maybe two years. But what is, is and
> > getting the bolt tapped is the main task at hand.
> >
> > Hopefully some of you can reply before I resume the task in about 4
> > hours.
> >
> >
> > David Councill
> > 67 BGT
> > 72 B
> > _______________________________________________
> > blair at ifd.mv.com
> >
> > Edit your replies
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Sun Aug 19 17:12:13 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:12:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] exhaust system flange
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10708190947i61c39a19r2bcefbe32162b515@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

Thanks for all the quick replies. I went to the hardware store and
bought the next drill size up, 17/64". The website mentioned below as
well as an earlier website I checked had formulas indicating a drill
size of .257" which is just slightly larger than 17/64". I also bought
another 5/16-18 tap, made in the USA. It cost about half of what I paid
for the 40 piece Harbor Freight tap and die kit I was using. The new tap
I bought suggested the "F" drill bit and naturally there were no drill
bits sold that referenced letters.



Anyway, with the slightly larger bore and the more robust tap (the
square tip on the end was even larger), the hole is now tapped, going
quite smooth as expected. I am not a professional mechanic by any means
but I am experienced enough to know when things are right and when they
are not. The previous tap was not going well and I did not want to force
it, thereby really making problems worse.



David Councill

67 BGT

72 B



________________________________

From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:47 AM
To: Councill, David
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] exhaust system flange



Personally I would buy a top quality tap.  if you bust the tap off in
the manifold the cost of extraction will far exceed the cost of a
quality tap.  Also according to this page
http://www.fairburyfastener.com/tap_drill_decimal_inch.htm the correct
tap drill for a 5/16-24 is an I which is .272" in diameter.  somewhat
bigger than a 1/4" drill.
Have you considered converting to bolts instead of studs?  I find them a
lot easier to work with.  YMMV of course.
Good luck,
Rick

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 17:47:29 2007
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 19:47:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DGEV
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <008c01c7e2bb$4e560350$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

Should I decide to send this carb to some expert to check and rebuild, who 
does the list recommend?

Thanks,

Ed Woods 

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 19 18:25:01 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:25:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DGEV
In-Reply-To: <008c01c7e2bb$4e560350$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <717780.53320.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

These guys are good to work with: 
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

If they can't do it they can probably recommend
someone who can.

rick

--- Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Should I decide to send this carb to some expert to
> check and rebuild, who 
> does the list recommend?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ed Woods 
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 18:45:19 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 19:45:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DGEV
In-Reply-To: <008c01c7e2bb$4e560350$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<008c01c7e2bb$4e560350$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <560AB1AE-3F40-44F9-A8F0-1A92EAA41D1D@gmail.com>

Joe Curto in New York
Lawrie Anderson in the San Francisco area.

Lawrie is the one who made the video available from Moss.

On Aug 19, 2007, at 6:47 PM, Ed Woods wrote:

> Should I decide to send this carb to some expert to check and  
> rebuild, who
> does the list recommend?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
77 MGB
99 OBS

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 18:47:21 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 19:47:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DGEV
In-Reply-To: <560AB1AE-3F40-44F9-A8F0-1A92EAA41D1D@gmail.com>
References: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AD1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<008c01c7e2bb$4e560350$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<560AB1AE-3F40-44F9-A8F0-1A92EAA41D1D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <77F14FE7-C5BF-4437-9FC8-4D9868648D5B@gmail.com>

Oh sorry, I didn't read the title. These are for SUs.

Pierce is the place for Webers. Though a local carb shop
could probably do it. Weber are sufficiently close to Holley
or Rochester.


On Aug 19, 2007, at 7:45 PM, Paul Root wrote:

> Joe Curto in New York
> Lawrie Anderson in the San Francisco area.
>
> Lawrie is the one who made the video available from Moss.
>
> On Aug 19, 2007, at 6:47 PM, Ed Woods wrote:
>
>> Should I decide to send this carb to some expert to check and  
>> rebuild, who
>> does the list recommend?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Ed Woods
>> _______________________________________________
>> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>>
>> Edit your replies
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Paul Root
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
> 77 MGB
> 99 OBS
>
>
>

Paul Root
ptrmgb at gmail.com
77 MGB
99 OBS

From jmc987 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 19 19:00:13 2007
From: jmc987 at earthlink.net (joseph cianciotti)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:00:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] She's alive! Almost.
In-Reply-To: <76664a460708191748u3626ecf1kd12912ccbc6fe57e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AF8A8666-93BC-4411-B738-1A26ECA8C344@earthlink.net>
	<76664a460708191748u3626ecf1kd12912ccbc6fe57e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E2303973-AD91-4CEF-BB8C-0567EC805023@earthlink.net>

Thanks all,

I jumped the wires and it's the switch (it's the kind that's  
connected to the hydraulics). I'll order a new one tomorrow. Drove  
the car today, sans brake lights, on mostly neighborhood roads, and  
it's a blast to be back in the driver's seat. Once the switch is  
installed, I'll get the car inspected and be completely legal, just  
in time for fall.

Joseph
67 MGB Roadster



> On 8/18/07, joseph cianciotti <jmc987 at earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Well, I fired up the MGB after its unplanned 20-month nap. And
>> believe it or not, it started on the 2nd crank. Took it out on a
>> shake-down cruise and everything is working just as it was. The only
>> fly in the ointment that I can see, besides the coat of dust and dirt
>> I'll wash off tomorrow, is the brake lights. They're not working.
>> Since both are out, I'm assuming it's a connection problem. I looked
>> under the dash and there's a loose bullet connector with a blue wire
>> and no mate. Is it possible that this could be the cause? And if
>> that's not the right connection, where should I be looking. Thanks in
>> advanc
>> Joseph
>> '67 MGB Roadster
>> _______________________________________________
>> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>>
>> Edit your replies
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 19:35:45 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 01:35:45 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] What top frames fit the 74.5 mgb?
Message-ID: <082020070135.22978.46C8EFF1000BF58B000059C222165279669F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Hello.
My ongoing fixnsell 74.5 mgb has not top frame, or top. I'm trying to figure out 
what tops and frames will fit the car.
Moss cat. says part # 406-280 19485 to 219,00. around the 1970 year. I'd rather 
not buy a new frame for the car anyway, so I'm wondering if there's a difference 
between years, and thus, is it possible to buy a frame that won't fit?
   I have a stow away top and new hood for my 70 MGB, and a foldup frame needing 
some repairs for the 71 mgb, that needs a new top, too. Anyone know the answer: 
what top frames fit the 74.5 mgb?
Thank you all!
Eric.--


.
74.5 MGB# GHN5UE364051 G

From Cyc10 at aol.com  Sun Aug 19 21:51:26 2007
From: Cyc10 at aol.com (Cyc10 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 23:51:26 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] go go (no subject)
Message-ID: <ca4.178e4fa6.33fa69be@aol.com>

go go



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 06:07:26 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 05:07:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Weber DGEV
In-Reply-To: <77F14FE7-C5BF-4437-9FC8-4D9868648D5B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <525802.55765.qm@web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

SUs are so wonderfully simple you should do them
yourself!  Buy kits, including needles and jets if you
want 'new' carbs, and and a gallon can of carb
cleaner.  Check your floats for leaks and ham-fisted
POs and... Voila!  New carbs!

rick


--- Paul Root <ptrmgb at gmail.com> wrote:

> Oh sorry, I didn't read the title. These are for
> SUs.
> 
> Pierce is the place for Webers. Though a local carb
> shop
> could probably do it. Weber are sufficiently close
> to Holley
> or Rochester.
> 
> 
> On Aug 19, 2007, at 7:45 PM, Paul Root wrote:
> 
> > Joe Curto in New York
> > Lawrie Anderson in the San Francisco area.
> >
> > Lawrie is the one who made the video available
> from Moss.
> >
> > On Aug 19, 2007, at 6:47 PM, Ed Woods wrote:
> >
> >> Should I decide to send this carb to some expert
> to check and  
> >> rebuild, who
> >> does the list recommend?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Ed Woods
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> ptrmgb at gmail.com
> >>
> >> Edit your replies
> >>
> >> Mgs at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> >
> > Paul Root
> > ptrmgb at gmail.com
> > 77 MGB
> > 99 OBS
> >
> >
> >
> 
> Paul Root
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
> 77 MGB
> 99 OBS
> _______________________________________________
> rolindsay at yahoo.com
> 
> Edit your replies
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 06:28:29 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 05:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
In-Reply-To: <D0272F85-BECD-4C3E-A59B-095D7044FDA3@erickson.on.net>
Message-ID: <130424.70050.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote: I thought some of you might like to see some great photos a workmate  
of mine took at the Rally of South australia (part of the Australian  
Rally Championship) on the weekend.

I was running this stage of the event and ended up being too busy to  
get my camera out!

http://users.on.net/~bradley/Galleries/RallySA-2007/

No MGs tis weeend - mostly modern technology (apart from the "local"  
entries in some older Toyotas and Datsuns)



---------------------
Very cool.... My son is into Subarus (he has a '99 Impreza RS2.5) so he enjoyed the pics of the Scoobies.....




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 06:50:04 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 05:50:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] LE Wheel paint [now: subject rant] [Now: Max's Rules]
In-Reply-To: <C2E7A5D6.126A3%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <203755.3702.qm@web50902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Max Heim <max_heim at sbcglobal.net> wrote: Yeah, I know, it's only Tuesday and I'm wearing my cranky pants...

But really, it's not even a matter of etiquette, it's just Effective
Communication. Suppose I started posting urgent questions about brake line
flare fittings under this same subject, then got bent out of shape because
nobody responded. I'd have nobody to blame but myself...-----------------------
I have to agree with Max. I frequent a well-known MGB BBS and people constantly post questions with a heading of 'Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr' or 'I can't believe what I just did' or 'It's a beautiful day here so I went out to the garage to do some work on the B and guess what I found?', then wonder why no one answers their questions!!!!!




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 07:06:50 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 06:06:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] FREE ADVERTISING!
In-Reply-To: <400760.10269.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <828791.4810.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Not really. Kelvin, you really should change your e-mail address so we don't get that free advertising (as in '@mossmotors.com') every time you post.....! Very sneaky!!

As Ed used to say, <VVVVVVVVVBG> ;-)

Getting caught up on e-mail after vacation is always fun. Just spent our annual week on Cape Cod. Only saw one LBC, a red TR4/4A. Didn't make it to Toad Hall this year.


Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote: Kelvin, you are squeaky-clean in this issue.  Thank
you.

rick

--- "Dodd, Kelvin"  wrote:

> Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing
> any more.
> 
> 
> 
> K.



      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 07:18:19 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 06:18:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Rally of South Australia (No MG)
In-Reply-To: <130424.70050.qm@web50901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <820212.35838.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Guys, this is the most enjoyable form of racing I have
ever experienced (and I'm an F1 marshal!).  Although
not shown in this picture set, the historics are even
better.  No, they're not 400hp turbocharged Scoobies
but an MGB-GT in full rallye trim makes 80hp look
really good!

rick

--- Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Eric Erickson <eric at erickson.on.net> wrote: I
> thought some of you might like to see some great
> photos a workmate  
> of mine took at the Rally of South australia (part
> of the Australian  
> Rally Championship) on the weekend.
> 
> I was running this stage of the event and ended up
> being too busy to  
> get my camera out!
> 
> http://users.on.net/~bradley/Galleries/RallySA-2007/
> 
> No MGs tis weeend - mostly modern technology (apart
> from the "local"  
> entries in some older Toyotas and Datsuns)
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------
> Very cool.... My son is into Subarus (he has a '99
> Impreza RS2.5) so he enjoyed the pics of the
> Scoobies.....

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 07:18:26 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 06:18:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MG/Rover Day at the Museum of Transportation in Brookline,
 MA  tomorrow
In-Reply-To: <97E94C5E82970840B07576B0169C4C0631B9B3@shoyerserver.shoyer.com>
Message-ID: <975431.86288.qm@web50912.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Steve Shoyer <Steve at shoyer.com> wrote: Anyone going to the show tomorrow?  I'm planning to take my car for the
first time since it caught on fire, so please don't laugh when you see
it.  It's the green one that looks like the touch-up paint was applied
with a foam brush in a dark garage (just to set the record straight, the lights were on in the garage at the time).

----------------------
This show is always the day AFTER we leave the area from vacation!! Haven't been there since the early '90's. Anyone have pics??

Steve, put some pics of the paint job on your website!!


      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From barrie at look.ca  Mon Aug 20 07:45:37 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 09:45:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] FREE ADVERTISING!
In-Reply-To: <828791.4810.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <400760.10269.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<828791.4810.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E1IN7aO-0006BV-7d@delta.look.ca>

Personally I see absolutely no problem with people whose email 
address includes a company name.  It actually helps because when 
Kelvin makes a statement we are reminded that he works for Moss and 
maybe (and I mean maybe!) influenced by his proximity to that 
enterprise.  If he hid his association that would be naughty !!!!


At 09:06 AM 8/20/2007, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>Not really. Kelvin, you really should change your e-mail address so 
>we don't get that free advertising (as in '@mossmotors.com') every 
>time you post.....! Very sneaky!!
>
>As Ed used to say, <VVVVVVVVVBG> ;-)
>
>Getting caught up on e-mail after vacation is always fun. Just spent 
>our annual week on Cape Cod. Only saw one LBC, a red TR4/4A. Didn't 
>make it to Toad Hall this year.
>
>
>Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote: Kelvin, you are 
>squeaky-clean in this issue.  Thank
>you.
>
>rick
>
>--- "Dodd, Kelvin"  wrote:
>
> > Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing
> > any more.
> >
> >
> >
> > K.
>
>
>
>       Dan D
>Central NJ USA
>'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
>'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
>NAMGBR #5-2328
>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
>http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Aug 20 08:41:49 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 09:41:49 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP [Fwd: RE: Rotella Ask Our Expert: Switching Oils]
Message-ID: <46C9A82D.2070107@wi.net>

Here is a response to my letter in regards to Rotella T as a substitute 
for low ZDDP oil.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	RE: Rotella Ask Our Expert: Switching Oils
Date: 	Mon, 20 Aug 2007 09:27:55 -0500
From: 	<AskShell at Shell.com>
To: 	<dwoerpel at wi.net>



David, Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 CJ-4 has approximately 1200 ppm zinc (ZDDP). This is 50% more zinc than current passenger car motor oils which contain approximately 800 ppm zinc. Passenger car motor oils had approximately 1200 ppm zinc prior to 2001. In 2001 the zinc in passenger car motor oils was reduced to 1000 ppm and in 2005 reduced again to the current 800 ppm. Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 does have a gasoline rating of SM (not energy conserving GF-4, would void a new car warranty).

http://www.shellusserver.com/products/pdf/RotellaT(CJ-4).pdf

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/EngineOilGuide2006.pdf
 
Thus, the new Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 CJ-4 has the same zinc anti-wear content that passenger car motor oils had in 2000 before the current problems with flat tappet engine began. Rotella T oils should work well in your older British cars. 

Richard Moore
Staff Engineer
Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc.
Westhollow Technology Center, PO Box 4327, Houston, TX 77210, United States of America
1-800-231-6950

-----Original Message-----
From: dwoerpel at wi.net [mailto:dwoerpel at wi.net]
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 11:40 PM
To: askshell, SLUBE-GSMR/5
Subject: Rotella Ask Our Expert: Switching Oils


------------------------------------------------
ROTELLA.com E-mail Form
------------------------------------------------
NAME               David Woerpel
E-MAIL ADDRESS     dwoerpel at wi.net
SUBJECT            Switching Oils
COMMENTS
----------------------------------------------
Now that ZDDP has been decreased in gasoline engine oils, what oils are applicable on my 1959 British cars?  I have been told Rotella T for diesel engines would work.  Is this true?  Any drawbacks?
Thanks,
Dave
----------------------------------------------

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 20 08:48:05 2007
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:48:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Weber carb info
References: <c22.1bd026d6.33f62c09@aol.com>
	<003101c7e071$81b5f3a0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
	<00e901c7e0b8$9578e180$174afc40@DESKTOP>
Message-ID: <00e001c7e339$1e3a3280$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>

Thank you all for the help/info.

Ed

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 20 09:22:05 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:22:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] She's alive! Almost.
References: <AF8A8666-93BC-4411-B738-1A26ECA8C344@earthlink.net><76664a460708191748u3626ecf1kd12912ccbc6fe57e@mail.gmail.com>
	<E2303973-AD91-4CEF-BB8C-0567EC805023@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <017701c7e33f$75692ba0$0200a8c0@Three>

Be aware that current stock from some sources is very poor quality, both 
hydraulic and mechanically operated brake light switches, and replaces fail 
very soon.  The only 'cure' seems to be to introduce a relay, which still 
needs diode protection of the contacts.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I jumped the wires and it's the switch (it's the kind that's
> connected to the hydraulics). 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 20 09:30:30 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:30:30 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] turn signal
References: <009701c7e13b$91087880$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>
Message-ID: <017801c7e33f$758a9650$0200a8c0@Three>

If neither the turn or the hazard flashers work at that corner then it is 
the circuit for that corner.  Could be one of the two green/white (RHS) or 
green/red (LHS) wires pulled out of the four-way bullet connector near the 
fusebox where the rear harness tees off it.  Could also be the 2-way 
connector where the tail from the light unit joins the harness wire, the 
bulb in its holder, or where the wires join the holder.  Chrome bumper front 
indicator/parking lights don't have a ground wire as such, they rely on the 
mechanical attachment to the wing.  If the body of the light unit shows 12v 
then it is indeed the ground.

If however you are saying that only one corner doesn't work for the turn 
signals, and *both* corners that side for the hazards don't work, then you 
have two faults.  This is likely to be the hazard switch, or the red/green 
(or red/white wire) disconnected from the switch.

If you have a modern 3-pin electronic turn signal flasher unit then these do 
indeed flash fast when one bulb has failed.  But judging by what one sees on 
the road not many people know that.


PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> just a fast question concerning my passenger side turn signal indicator on 
> my
> 71 MGB that is not working  .  Bulb checks out to be o.k. rear and driver 
> side
> indicators work fine, although blinking faster than normal,  emergency
> blinkers work although not the passenger side. 

From jmc987 at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 20 09:40:25 2007
From: jmc987 at earthlink.net (joseph cianciotti)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 11:40:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] She's alive! Almost.
In-Reply-To: <017701c7e33f$75692ba0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <AF8A8666-93BC-4411-B738-1A26ECA8C344@earthlink.net><76664a460708191748u3626ecf1kd12912ccbc6fe57e@mail.gmail.com>
	<E2303973-AD91-4CEF-BB8C-0567EC805023@earthlink.net>
	<017701c7e33f$75692ba0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <2B8FFE35-0E2E-4168-9FD4-AB344CCC2673@earthlink.net>

Placed the order earlier this morning. And thanks for the head's up,  
Paul. From the looks of it, the switch I'm replacing is the original.  
Do I just undo it? And will I lose brake fluid in the process, or is  
there some sort of seal in there?

Thanks for your sage advice,

Joseph


On Aug 20, 2007, at 11:22 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:

> Be aware that current stock from some sources is very poor quality,  
> both hydraulic and mechanically operated brake light switches, and  
> replaces fail very soon.  The only 'cure' seems to be to introduce  
> a relay, which still needs diode protection of the contacts.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I jumped the wires and it's the switch (it's the kind that's
>> connected to the hydraulics).

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 20 09:44:06 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:44:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] What top frames fit the 74.5 mgb?
References: <082020070135.22978.46C8EFF1000BF58B000059C222165279669F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <019301c7e341$8f6615c0$0200a8c0@Three>

Any frame will fit any car, but each frame must have the matching cover.

According to Clausager there were three different types at various times. 
Originally there was the pack-away frame or an optional early folding frame. 
>From 1970 there was only the later folding frame.  Clausager nor the Parts 
Catalogue mention the two different types of early folding frame that Moss 
seems to.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> what top frames fit the 74.5 mgb?

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 20 09:51:32 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:51:32 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] She's alive! Almost.
References: <AF8A8666-93BC-4411-B738-1A26ECA8C344@earthlink.net><76664a460708191748u3626ecf1kd12912ccbc6fe57e@mail.gmail.com>
	<E2303973-AD91-4CEF-BB8C-0567EC805023@earthlink.net>
	<017701c7e33f$75692ba0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<2B8FFE35-0E2E-4168-9FD4-AB344CCC2673@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <01b001c7e343$a954a800$0200a8c0@Three>

If you put a piece of poly film over the top of the master filler neck you 
shouldn't lose much.  It does just unscrew, although after all these years 
it could be pretty stiff, so you may have to grip the body of the junction 
in some way to avoid turning it and all the pipes.  Once it *does* come out 
have the new one handy to screw right in.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "joseph cianciotti" <jmc987 at earthlink.net>
To: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] She's alive! Almost.


> Placed the order earlier this morning. And thanks for the head's up, 
> Paul. From the looks of it, the switch I'm replacing is the original.  Do 
> I just undo it? And will I lose brake fluid in the process, or is  there 
> some sort of seal in there?
>
> Thanks for your sage advice,
>
> Joseph
>
>
> On Aug 20, 2007, at 11:22 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
>
>> Be aware that current stock from some sources is very poor quality,  both 
>> hydraulic and mechanically operated brake light switches, and  replaces 
>> fail very soon.  The only 'cure' seems to be to introduce  a relay, which 
>> still needs diode protection of the contacts.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> I jumped the wires and it's the switch (it's the kind that's
>>> connected to the hydraulics).

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Mon Aug 20 10:14:34 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:14:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] FREE ADVERTISING!
In-Reply-To: <E1IN7aO-0006BV-7d@delta.look.ca>
References: <400760.10269.qm@web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<828791.4810.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<E1IN7aO-0006BV-7d@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <76664a460708200914u457fc814g31689f22cff74a9c@mail.gmail.com>

I think its Great that Kelvin is on this list... Great for Moss --
proving that they actually have staffers interested in what they are
doing and aren't just a drop shipper with phone lines in New Dehli -
and Great for us, because Kelvin knows what he's talking about.

- Steve

On 8/20/07, Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:
> Personally I see absolutely no problem with people whose email
> address includes a company name.  It actually helps because when
> Kelvin makes a statement we are reminded that he works for Moss and
> maybe (and I mean maybe!) influenced by his proximity to that
> enterprise.  If he hid his association that would be naughty !!!!
>
>
> At 09:06 AM 8/20/2007, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> >Not really. Kelvin, you really should change your e-mail address so
> >we don't get that free advertising (as in '@mossmotors.com') every
> >time you post.....! Very sneaky!!
> >
> >As Ed used to say, <VVVVVVVVVBG> ;-)
> >
> >Getting caught up on e-mail after vacation is always fun. Just spent
> >our annual week on Cape Cod. Only saw one LBC, a red TR4/4A. Didn't
> >make it to Toad Hall this year.
> >
> >
> >Rick Lindsay <rolindsay at yahoo.com> wrote: Kelvin, you are
> >squeaky-clean in this issue.  Thank
> >you.
> >
> >rick
> >
> >--- "Dodd, Kelvin"  wrote:
> >
> > > Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing
> > > any more.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > K.
> >
> >
> >
> >       Dan D
> >Central NJ USA
> >'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
> >'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
> >   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
> >NAMGBR #5-2328
> >   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
> >http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
> >_______________________________________________
> >barrie at look.ca
> >
> >Edit your replies
> >
> >Mgs at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Mon Aug 20 10:17:00 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Painting Coil Springs
Message-ID: <76664a460708200917l37bde7e6rceaee275b3b4fbb8@mail.gmail.com>

I've got some rust on my coil springs that I'd like to get cleaned and
covered while I have them on the bench.

Any recommendations for paint?  Salty Winter roads are approaching my
daily driver soon.

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 10:21:13 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:21:13 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Painting Coil Springs
Message-ID: <cbd.187a8d21.33fb1979@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/20/2007 9:17:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
temporarilyoffline at gmail.com writes:

I've got  some rust on my coil springs that I'd like to get cleaned and
covered while  I have them on the bench.

Any recommendations for paint?  Salty  Winter roads are approaching my
daily driver  soon.



 
____________________________________


Well you aren't in much danger of them rusting through, but if  you want to 
clean them up just use Tremclad, as you probably have some oxide on  them 
unless you really sandblast them.
 
You can go for the extroverted red, or the demure black or any  of the other 
colours in their range.
 
I paint a lot of stuff in Rebuilder's Grey (not a Tremclad  product) as it 
makes things look like a raw unpainted casting.
 
Rest assured that sooner or later they will chip anyway as  stones kick up at 
them.
 
Bill

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 10:45:26 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 09:45:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] FREE ADVERTISING!
In-Reply-To: <E1IN7aO-0006BV-7d@delta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <766184.63436.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well, Barrie, I guess you missed the 'Very Big Grin'  and smiley face I included to show that my comment was tongue in cheek.

Dan

Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote: 
Personally I see absolutely no problem with people whose email 
address includes a company name.  It actually helps because when 
Kelvin makes a statement we are reminded that he works for Moss and 
maybe (and I mean maybe!) influenced by his proximity to that 
enterprise.  If he hid his association that would be naughty !!!!


At 09:06 AM 8/20/2007, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>Not really. Kelvin, you really should change your e-mail address so 
>we don't get that free advertising (as in '@mossmotors.com') every 
>time you post.....! Very sneaky!!
>
>As Ed used to say,  ;-)
>
>Getting caught up on e-mail after vacation is always fun. Just spent 
>our annual week on Cape Cod. Only saw one LBC, a red TR4/4A. Didn't 
>make it to Toad Hall this year.
>
>
>Rick Lindsay  wrote: Kelvin, you are 
>squeaky-clean in this issue.  Thank
>you.
>
>rick
>
>--- "Dodd, Kelvin"  wrote:
>
> > Times like this make me glad I'm not in marketing
> > any more.
> >
> >
> >
> > K.
>
>
>
>       Dan D
>Central NJ USA
>'76 MGB Tourer - Driver -  What's that smoke? 
>'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
>   '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby!
>NAMGBR #5-2328
>   http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
>http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Mon Aug 20 10:53:02 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:53:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Painting Coil Springs
In-Reply-To: <cbd.187a8d21.33fb1979@aol.com>
References: <cbd.187a8d21.33fb1979@aol.com>
Message-ID: <76664a460708200953t49be244xaabb80db2bf888f5@mail.gmail.com>

Mine are already red...

I already have a can of black rustoleum... so I'll just have a mixed bag.

I just want to stop the rust for now... seems like my duty to do it
while its sitting on the bench, instead of agnostically putting them
back on a car.

- Steve

On 8/20/07, WSpohn4 at aol.com <WSpohn4 at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 8/20/2007 9:17:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com writes:
>
> I've got  some rust on my coil springs that I'd like to get cleaned and
> covered while  I have them on the bench.
>
> Any recommendations for paint?  Salty  Winter roads are approaching my
> daily driver  soon.
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Well you aren't in much danger of them rusting through, but if  you want to
> clean them up just use Tremclad, as you probably have some oxide on  them
> unless you really sandblast them.
>
> You can go for the extroverted red, or the demure black or any  of the other
> colours in their range.
>
> I paint a lot of stuff in Rebuilder's Grey (not a Tremclad  product) as it
> makes things look like a raw unpainted casting.
>
> Rest assured that sooner or later they will chip anyway as  stones kick up at
> them.
>
> Bill
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From philip.s.jones at comcast.net  Mon Aug 20 11:08:49 2007
From: philip.s.jones at comcast.net (Phil Jones)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:08:49 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Successful brake drum replacement
Message-ID: <082020071708.264.46C9CAA10004B3240000010822058861729C0A020106D29CD29F070407089F@comcast.net>

Hi all.  There have been plenty of messages about improvements brakes recently, so just thought I'd add my recent experience with my '72 GT.

Symptomatically, I was experiencing early rear lock-up, "thrumming" sound and pulsation upon deceleration, soft first-push brake pedal, and weak emergency brake.  Over the past several years, I had replaced pads (V8), rotors (x-drilled & slotted), hoses (stainless), master cylinder, and rear slave cylinders and shoes.  My rear drums were out of spec for turning, so I installed new ones this weekend.

First impression:  oooooh, pretty!  Nice and clean and shiny.  Second impression:  Wow!  Big improvement!  I was only trying to address the early rear lock-up and the pulsation/thrumming, but the replacement actually addressed the brake pedal firmness and emergency brake.  I now can confirm that, when in proper fettle, MGB's have excellent brakes.  I can't wait to drive it some more!  

Just a few weeks ago, I did a little road trip through north central Washington and southern central BC, coming into Whistler from the north for a couple days at the NAMGAR event and thence to Vancouver Island and home.  I wish I had replaced the drums previously!  I had the brakes smelling hot and getting soft (although not smoking) at least once on the trip.

Now I feel like my car is in tip-top mechanical condition.  Barring further issues, then I'll be saving up for the exterior (rust) and interior (I'd love to have leather seats and a smaller, good-looking steering wheel). 

From Aeseeyou at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 11:09:40 2007
From: Aeseeyou at aol.com (Aeseeyou at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:09:40 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
Message-ID: <c9f.12433dc3.33fb24d4@aol.com>

To the list,
A couple of you have somehow gotten your proverbial wires crossed. So  I'm 
going to say something in defense of my fellow club member and friend Kelvin  
Dodd. Anyone that knows Kelvin knows just how far out of his way he'll go to  
assist, help, council, suggest and provide what ever he can to a fellow  
enthusiast in need . And all  in a manner totally free of  having any "strings 
attached"!! He's one of those rare individuals who I  wouldn't hesitate to recommend 
to anyone that I felt they might benefit from his  wise and totally 
altruistic experience.
I first met Kelvin Dodd at one of our monthly General Meetings.  Usually 
someone in his position would be so full of himself and all of the B/S  that comes 
from being one of the big fish in the pond...and believe me Kelvin  is very 
well known and a highly respected person, by LCB enthusiasts  and aficionados 
WORLDWIDE! We're extremely lucky to be only an email away from  him. He 
regularly freely offers us a huge resource of  data & knowledge .
Finally I've NEVER heard him boast or flap his gulp valve in what could  ever 
be taken as a self serving statement or sentence. One person even  suggested 
that Kelvin change his email address as to not give even a veiled  suggestion 
of impropriety, or that he was "on the job"! To the  contrary, Moss Motors 
should be commended and held in reverence for allowing  Kelvin the autonomy to 
serve the MG community while he on their clock. You  try to get that service 
from some other Parts house & see how far you  get before the meter starts 
running. 
Kelvin Dodd has some great mentors and teachers in the way of , Ken  Smith, 
Harry Haigh, Al Moss and others. And that's a pretty  awesome group of MG and 
Triumph heavyweights. But Kelvin would be  last absolutely LAST person to toot 
his own Hooter (Horn) so I  consider it an honor to rise to my friends 
defense...although he doesn't  need it. Never did and never will. We should consider 
ourselves lucky to  have him in our circle.
I know he's going to be PO'ed that I went on and on but Kelvin is  someone 
that I admire and respect both as a friend and a fellow CCBCC club  member...
Albert Escalante CCBCC (West Coast) 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 11:50:40 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:50:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
In-Reply-To: <c9f.12433dc3.33fb24d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <165239.9303.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Wow, I must have missed something. 
  Reference; Kelvin
   
  Anyone who would accuse Kelvin of ANY impropriety is just not paying attention at all. He is as much of an LBC gearhead as anyone here. He just is lucky enough to have a job in the Toyhouse. He works very hard to help us with problems, go to bat for us with Moss, and give any advice he can taking much time crafting his long, detailed responses. I know he has fought the bean counters over parts quality on more than on occasion. 
  Quick, tell me one person from VB who would do 1/4 what he does? does anyone there even own an LBC?
   
  Carl French
  

Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:
  To the list,
A couple of you have somehow gotten your proverbial wires crossed. So I'm 
going to say something in defense of my fellow club member and friend Kelvin 
Dodd. Anyone that knows Kelvin knows just how far out of his way he'll go to 
assist, help, council, suggest and provide what ever he can to a fellow 
enthusiast in need . 
       
---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 12:03:10 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 11:03:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
In-Reply-To: <165239.9303.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <450376.71318.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Carl, Barrie and Albert totally misread a note I posted intended to be humorous, as evidenced by '<VVVVBG>' and ';-)' and immediately jumped to an (unneeded, certainly, by me) defense of Kelvin.

Suffice it to say, I won't be posting any humor here without writing 'THIS IS INTENDED TO BE A JOKE, FOLKS'. 

Dan

Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com> wrote: Wow, I must have missed something. 
  Reference; Kelvin
   
  Anyone who would accuse Kelvin of ANY impropriety is just not paying attention at all. He is as much of an LBC gearhead as anyone here. He just is lucky enough to have a job in the Toyhouse. He works very hard to help us with problems, go to bat for us with Moss, and give any advice he can taking much time crafting his long, detailed responses. I know he has fought the bean counters over parts quality on more than on occasion. 
  Quick, tell me one person from VB who would do 1/4 what he does? does anyone there even own an LBC?
   
  Carl French
  

Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:
  To the list,
A couple of you have somehow gotten your proverbial wires crossed. So I'm 
going to say something in defense of my fellow club member and friend Kelvin 
Dodd. Anyone that knows Kelvin knows just how far out of his way he'll go to 
assist, help, council, suggest and provide what ever he can to a fellow 
enthusiast in need . 
       
---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
_______________________________________________
d_dibiase at yahoo.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 20 12:07:39 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 11:07:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
In-Reply-To: <450376.71318.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <832886.86763.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Sorry Dan, I know you would have not done anything like that. I missed the original post and was reacting to Albert's post.
  Carl French

Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase at yahoo.com> wrote:
  Carl, Barrie and Albert totally misread a note I posted intended to be humorous, as evidenced by '<VVVVBG>' and ';-)' and immediately jumped to an (unneeded, certainly, by me) defense of Kelvin.

Suffice it to say, I won't be posting any humor here without writing 'THIS IS INTENDED TO BE A JOKE, FOLKS'. 

Dan

Carl French <leylandauto at yahoo.com> wrote:  Wow, I must have missed something. 
Reference; Kelvin

Anyone who would accuse Kelvin of ANY impropriety is just not paying attention at all. He is as much of an LBC gearhead as anyone here. He just is lucky enough to have a job in the Toyhouse. He works very hard to help us with problems, go to bat for us with Moss, and give any advice he can taking much time crafting his long, detailed responses. I know he has fought the bean counters over parts quality on more than on occasion. 
Quick, tell me one person from VB who would do 1/4 what he does? does anyone there even own an LBC?

Carl French


Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:
To the list,
A couple of you have somehow gotten your proverbial wires crossed. So I'm 
going to say something in defense of my fellow club member and friend Kelvin 
Dodd. Anyone that knows Kelvin knows just how far out of his way he'll go to 
assist, help, council, suggest and provide what ever he can to a fellow 
enthusiast in need . 

---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
_______________________________________________
d_dibiase at yahoo.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs



       
---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Aug 20 13:04:26 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 21:04:26 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
References: <165239.9303.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005001c7e35c$ed5426c0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Fully agree Carl and all others, here from Europe a full support to Kelvin!

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl French" <leylandauto at yahoo.com>
To: <Aeseeyou at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....


> Wow, I must have missed something.
>  Reference; Kelvin
>
>  Anyone who would accuse Kelvin of ANY impropriety is just not paying 
> attention at all. He is as much of an LBC gearhead as anyone here. He just 
> is lucky enough to have a job in the Toyhouse. He works very hard to help 
> us with problems, go to bat for us with Moss, and give any advice he can 
> taking much time crafting his long, detailed responses. I know he has 
> fought the bean counters over parts quality on more than on occasion.
>  Quick, tell me one person from VB who would do 1/4 what he does? does 
> anyone there even own an LBC?
>
>  Carl French
>
>
> Aeseeyou at aol.com wrote:
>  To the list,
> A couple of you have somehow gotten your proverbial wires crossed. So I'm
> going to say something in defense of my fellow club member and friend 
> Kelvin
> Dodd. Anyone that knows Kelvin knows just how far out of his way he'll go 
> to
> assist, help, council, suggest and provide what ever he can to a fellow
> enthusiast in need .

From mghirsch at netzero.net  Mon Aug 20 14:25:00 2007
From: mghirsch at netzero.net (Maynard Hirsch)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 15:25:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] my two cents
Message-ID: <001101c7e368$2f4c9340$6600a8c0@maynardi2jlr25>

I am on a couple of bulletin boards for my cars.  One of them is sponsored by
a parts distributor.  But the only time I know it is when one of the
moderators ( a master mechanic for the marque) is discussing a particular part
that needs to replaced/described.  He then pulls up a catalog picture of that
part.  I find it very useful.  But the bulletin board is never used for direct
sales,  I have used the distributor for parts as a way of saying thanks.  This
is very similiar to what Kevin does, and it as it should be.

Thanks Kevin.

Maynard

From lrc at red4est.com  Mon Aug 20 16:27:48 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 15:27:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <cd6.16369888.33ec715f@aol.com>
References: <cd6.16369888.33ec715f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20070820222748.GA21528@red4est.com>

On Thu, Aug 09, 2007 at 09:32:15AM -0400, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
# In a message dated 09/08/2007 1:26:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
# paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:
# 
# If they  pump up that sounds more like air in the system, perhaps from 
# boiling in  your case.  I find it difficult to believe that the drums could 
# wear  down so fast that the pedal sinks, and also that pumping the pedal 
# could  'compensate' for it.

Air in the system would make it soft. It's not that it's soft, it's
that there is excessive play. I suspect that your other comment about
the spindle/hubs may be closer to on the mark.


-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From lrc at red4est.com  Mon Aug 20 16:35:51 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 15:35:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <bc2.13ff7267.33eb44fb@aol.com>
References: <bc2.13ff7267.33eb44fb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20070820223551.GB21528@red4est.com>

On Wed, Aug 08, 2007 at 12:10:35PM -0400, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
# In a message dated 8/7/2007 10:27:00 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
# lrc at red4est.com writes:
# ____________________________________
# 
# Larry, you can't say that a stock braking system is  inadequate because you 
# can fade them in hard use - you have to give them a  chance to work and that 
# includes adding some cooling if you intend to  race.

I consider cooling as a vital and integral part of the brake system. 

# If you are driving an MGB hard enough to fade Porterfield  pads, either 
# change pad material or attend to some added cooling if that doesn't  work.

The porterfields are perfectly fine on the track. Some of the roads in
my area are much harder on brakes than racetracks. At sears point, in
an MGB with "stock" power, you only use the brakes in turns 4, 6, 7
and 11 in 2.5 miles, on Bear Creek, or parts of hwy 9 you'll use them
15-20 times in 2.5 Miles. They never get a chance to cool off.

# You can make up a quickly swappable set up using headlight  buckets with 
# screened covers and attachments at the back for plastic  and wire dryer ducting to 
# get some air down there.  Make sure you attach  the tubing properly near the 
# brakes as otherwise the tire will catch it and  you'll look a right twit as 
# you trail yards of unwound wire and plastic behind  you (don't ask me how I know 
# this).

If my car were track only, I'd do something like that.

# And I can't believe that MGB brakes are that much inferior  to MGA (although 
# the air flow will obviously be a bit different with the  different bodywork) 
# as I pitted for a guy that ran a quick MGB (man after my own  heart - ran a 3 
# main engine) in a 7 hour endurance race and never faded the DS-11s he used.
#  
# I use regular R4 Porterfields - what are you  using?.

The R4S, as I recall.

# In any case, it seems to me that adding a bit of air is  a much cheaper 
# solution to brakes that are too hot than spending $1400 on new  brakes, but that's 
# just me.....:-)

Yup. It's definitely more cost effective.


-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From lrc at red4est.com  Mon Aug 20 16:39:24 2007
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 15:39:24 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
In-Reply-To: <cd6.16369888.33ec715f@aol.com>
References: <cd6.16369888.33ec715f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20070820223924.GC21528@red4est.com>

On Thu, Aug 09, 2007 at 09:32:15AM -0400, WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
# 
# What it sounds like to me (only because I am intimately familiar with it)  is 
# excessive end float on the front bearings.

I can believe this.

#  
# This was a problem on the rear disc brake cars in particular including my  
# Twincam and some early Jensen 541s. As you go through corners (hard) the hubs  
# move back and forth enough to kick the pads back and you need to push them back 
#  out before you get a nice hard pedal again. Not something you usually notice 
# on  the street, as you rarely corner hard without braking.
#  
# The cure is to make sure end float is at minimum and to use your left foot  
# to move the pistons out while you are still on the straight, ready for the next 
#  braking area. Becomes second nature to a Twincam driver, but I hadn't heard 
# of  much problem on an MGB. Fitting rear discs to the MGB might actually make 
# the  problem worse, not better as then you'd have two ends with pistons to 
# push back  into the calipers.....

This is pretty much what I've been doing. I *thought* I had everything
adjusted right. I just really dislike having to do the game of tapping
the brakes a couple of times to get the brakes to work. I don't have
this problem at all in my Miatas (with 4 wheel disks). 


-- 
                All your apex are belong to us.
Larry Colen             lrc at red4est.com            http://www.red4est.com/lrc

From eugeneb at nni.com  Mon Aug 20 19:09:18 2007
From: eugeneb at nni.com (Eugene Balinski)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 21:09:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP [Fwd: RE: Rotella Ask Our Expert: Switching  Oils]
In-Reply-To: <46C9A82D.2070107@wi.net>
Message-ID: <web-6927934@admin.nni.com>

I thought that we had determined that Valvoline VR1 Racing
Oil (20W-50) contained the ZDDP needed for flat tappet car.

Gene  

80 B

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From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Aug 20 20:00:20 2007
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (dave houser)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 22:00:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP [Fwd: RE: Rotella Ask Our Expert: Switching   Oils]
In-Reply-To: <web-6927934@admin.nni.com>
References: <web-6927934@admin.nni.com>
Message-ID: <46CA4734.1020803@tampabay.rr.com>

That was my understanding as well, from what we heard out at MGA GT in 
Whistler, BC with the tech session held there.
Dave Houser

Eugene Balinski wrote:

>I thought that we had determined that Valvoline VR1 Racing
>Oil (20W-50) contained the ZDDP needed for flat tappet car.
>
>Gene  
>
>80 B

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug 21 02:47:15 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:47:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Big Brake Kit
References: <cd6.16369888.33ec715f@aol.com>
	<20070820222748.GA21528@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <00c101c7e3d1$c421adc0$0200a8c0@Three>

Air makes the pedal long travel before it *starts* to brake as well as 
spongy when it *is* braking, is the long travel what you mean by play?  Any 
problem caused by excessive wear in the shoes and/or drum would also show up 
as long handbrake travel, but air in the system does not affect the 
handbrake.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Air in the system would make it soft. It's not that it's soft, it's
> that there is excessive play. 

From DMatt21502 at aol.com  Tue Aug 21 09:05:34 2007
From: DMatt21502 at aol.com (DMatt21502 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 11:05:34 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Emergency brake light & Hazard light problem
Message-ID: <c5b.1823282f.33fc593e@aol.com>

I have a 1977 MGB on which I installed a new wiring harness last fall. I
have had an ongoing problem since installation and now a new problem.
Problem 1     The emergency brake light continues to be on even when the
handbrake is  off. I have checked the switch and it appears to operate fine. I
disconnected  the wire to the break pressure failure switch and the emergency
break light  operates properly.  The brakes seem  to operate well but have a
little bit of softness in the pedal. Would this  softness in the pedal cause
the
switch to keep my emergency brake light on or do  I need a new switch? Any
quick way to test the switch?
Problem 2      Used my emergency flasher for the first time recently and it
will only  work if I turn on one of my turn signals while the emergency
flasher
switch is  on. When I do this it works exactly the way it is supposed to. I
have checked  the two flasher units under the dash. One has a solid brown wire
and a light  green with a brown stripe wire connected to it. The other flasher
unit has light  green and brown stripe and a green wire (it is more an agua
color than green but  it is coming out of the wiring harness at the right
place
and has the proper  connection.)  The flasher unit with  the solid brown wire
and light green and brown wire is a Lucus 9 FL Flasher with  the numbers
35053A 25-76
12V 12A Max  The other  flasher unit is exactly the same except it has 35-76
after the model number. My  Moss catalog shows two different flasher units for
the turn signal and the  emergency flasher. I think I have these wired the
way the wiring diagram shows  but obviously I am doing something wrong unless
the turn signal is supposed to  be turned on for the emergency flashers to
work.
Donbt think so!!! Any help  would be appreciated.  The Other Dave  Matthews



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug 21 09:36:28 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 16:36:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re: Lowered MGB
References: <281430.634.qm@web50408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <024201c7e40a$7be80e80$0200a8c0@Three>

I've got this myself to go through now, after breaking a rear spring on a 1 
in 2 hairpin mountain pass on the Snowdon Run this weekend.  Right at the 
bottom I heard a 'ping' and felt something through my seat, but didn't fancy 
stopping there and then!  Everything seemed OK until 20 miles later on a 
relatively straight bit I noticed the steering wheel turned about 15 degrees 
to the right.  Got off the road and looked round the car to see the right 
rear wheel way back in the arch.  Looked underneath to the see the main leaf 
broken immediately in front of the clamping plate, and the other leaves had 
slipped through the clips by about an inch 
(http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/sr07.htm).  Fortunately the shackle almost 
fully extended backwards stops the axle going back far enough to hit the 
arch, so we opted to head the 150 miles for home rather than wait several 
hours for a pick-up.  Accelerated, braked and steered very gently (which did 
wonders for the mpg) and got home without further ado.  I've ordered new 
springs, time will tell how many people I need to sit in the load-space to 
get the rebound rubbers fastened.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Just an update on my lowered rubber bumper MGB. I took Paul's advice on
> using the older (shorter) rebound straps. Like someone who replied to
> my original post, I found I couldn't attach them because of their
> shortness.  Unlike him, I didn't use a couple of people jumping up and
> down to get the springs to compress.  Instead, I wedged a 2x6 from my
> trunk (boot) to my garage joist, then jacked up the differential and
> springs. 

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Aug 21 09:55:04 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 11:55:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Painting Coil Springs
Message-ID: <20070821.131853.3016.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

   Rustoleum satin black is close in appearance to the original black
paint.  Replacement springs that I have seen are painted gloss black.
Bob
 
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:17:00 -0400 Steve <temporarilyoffline at gmail.com>
writes:
> I've got some rust on my coil springs that I'd like to get cleaned 
> and
> covered while I have them on the bench.
> 
> Any recommendations for paint?  Salty Winter roads are approaching 
> my
> daily driver soon.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 21 11:58:41 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 10:58:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The horn button removal
In-Reply-To: <E1IMPQH-0001af-QY@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934134@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Brute Force and Ignorance!


Thin blade screw driver under the outer lip of the assembly. Carefully
pry up a bit at a time. The assembly is a press fit into the boss.

The horn push itself can only be removed after the assembly is pried out
of the boss.

The springs on the sides of the assembly are too strong to push back.



Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8 at Autox.Team.Net]
On
> Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 4:52 PM
> To: mgb-v8 at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: The horn button removal
>
> Has anyone got a cute way of getting the logoed horn button out of
> the Moto-Lite steering wheel.  It has two springs which hold it in
> and I tried using a feeler gauge to push one of them  back but did not
> work.
>
> Regards
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> (705) 721-9060
> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 21 13:23:08 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:23:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] What top frames fit the 74.5 mgb?
In-Reply-To: <019301c7e341$8f6615c0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934170@kb1.mossmotors.com>

So far I've run across the following frame sets for the MGB.

Folding Frames:

Very early grey folding frame  1962 - early 63   I've got some
photographs of this one. The difference is that there is a bar, about 4"
long that sticks up vertically from the center of a smaller 3 bolt body
mounting plate. The frame arms attach to this bar.

The later grey frame has a 3 bolt body mounting plate with extended
front edge and the frame assembly mounts directly to it.

The early frame set does exist, but was a running change. Parts books
only show the replacement part number. On a side note, the early frame
does require a unique top pattern and it's unlikely that any of the
current patterns are going to fit it very well as because it is so
unusual, non of the typical pattern adjustments due to changes in
material have been made over the years.



Later grey folding frame   1963 - 70

Both of these scissor towards the center of the car.


Black folding frame  1971 - 80

This frame scissors towards the back of the car.



Stowaway:

One type only, painted grey.



All of them do interchange.

The black 1971 on frame is the easiest to use and would be the design I
recommend for daily use.  I don't recommend the early grey frames. Watch
out for loose rivets or bolt substitutes on used top frames.

The stow away frame has become much more popular as the cars are used
more for fair weather driving only.






Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 8:44 AM
> To: cyberemp at comcast.net; MG LIST
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] What top frames fit the 74.5 mgb?
>
> Any frame will fit any car, but each frame must have the matching
cover.
>
> According to Clausager there were three different types at various
times.
> Originally there was the pack-away frame or an optional early folding
> frame.
> >From 1970 there was only the later folding frame.  Clausager nor the
> Parts
> Catalogue mention the two different types of early folding frame that
Moss
> seems to.
>
> PaulH.

From cyberemp at comcast.net  Tue Aug 21 16:15:37 2007
From: cyberemp at comcast.net (cyberemp at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 22:15:37 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] What top frames fit the 74.5 mgb?
Message-ID: <082120072215.28984.46CB6409000187FB0000713822155670749F030A9D0A0D970C@comcast.net>

Excellent information.
Thank you very much.
Eric
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
> So far I've run across the following frame sets for the MGB.
> 
> Folding Frames:
> 
> Very early grey folding frame  1962 - early 63   I've got some
<<<snip>>>

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug 21 09:55:02 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 16:55:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Emergency brake light & Hazard light problem
References: <c5b.1823282f.33fc593e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003401c7e48f$6c6d30e0$0200a8c0@Three>

1.  The brake pressure failure shuttle has probably moved far enough to one 
side to trip the warning switch, either because there is a leak on one 
circuit, or the brakes were bled but the shuttle valve wasn't re-centred 
afterwards.  It *could* be the switch, but you should eliminate the other 
factors first.  If there are no visible leaks you need to rebleed the 
system.  If you have recently bled the brakes, didn't recentre the shuttle, 
and don't know which circuit you bled last you will have to bleed first one 
circuit then the other until the light goes off.  Do this by having someone 
apply pressure to the pedal and watch the warning light (ignition on, 
handbrake off) while you open the bleed valve just a fraction and bleed very 
slowly.  If the light doesn't go out quite soon you will have to try the 
other circuit.  As soon as your assistant shouts that the light has gone out 
close the bleed valve immediately.  If you are too slow the shuttle will 
move past the central position and operate the switch from the other side, 
and you will have to repeat the process on the other circuit.

2.  There were two different turn signal flashers according to year, one up 
to 67 and one after.  There was only one hazard flasher.  9FL is the hazard 
flasher, which may also be labelled that it can flash 4*21w + 6w.  Turn 
flasher units can only flash 2*21w + 6w.  The hazard switch when turned on 
should *disconnect* 12v (ignition switch on) from the green wire at the turn 
flasher unit, this prevents the ignition and fuel pump being live when they 
shouldn't be.  The hazard flasher should have 12v on the brown but not on 
the light-green/brown all the time the hazards are *off*.  When the hazards 
are on the light-green/brown, green/red and green/white turn signal lamp 
wires (and light-green/purple tell-tale wire where fitted) are all connected 
together and the load of the lamps starts the hazard unit flashing 
on-off-on-off after a short pause in the off state.  With the hazard switch 
off and the ignition switch on the turn flasher should have 12v on both the 
green and light-green/brown wires.  When the turn flasher switch is operated 
the turn lamps that side should come on immediately, then start flashing 
off-on-off-on after a short delay.  While this is happening you should be 
able to see 12v flashing on and off at the green/red (LHS) and green/white 
(RHS) wires depending on which side the turn signal switch was moved to. 
Sounds like you have something screwy in the wiring, or possibly the switch. 
If you plot things through logically using the above you should be able to 
suss it out.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Problem 1     The emergency brake light continues to be on even when the
> handbrake is  off.
> Problem 2      Used my emergency flasher for the first time recently and 
> it
> will only  work if I turn on one of my turn signals while the emergency
> flasher
> switch is  on. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Aug 22 02:37:11 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 09:37:11 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Painting Coil Springs
References: <20070821.131853.3016.3.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <008e01c7e497$d2bf8570$0200a8c0@Three>

They also usually have blobs of different coloured paint on them from the 
factory to indicate the spec.  I hope you are all going to replicate that as 
well ... :o)

----- Original Message ----- 
>   Rustoleum satin black is close in appearance to the original black
> paint.  Replacement springs that I have seen are painted gloss black.

From scottbonacker at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 22 09:40:24 2007
From: scottbonacker at sbcglobal.net (SCOTT BONACKER)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 08:40:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Looking for list members in SW Missouri
Message-ID: <174320.94014.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The Greater Ozarks British Motor Club (http://www.gobmc.org/) is looking for a
few (more) good people for a current project. If you are near us, and are not
already a member of the club, please contact me directly off list.
Thanks,
Scott Bonacker
'77 RBB

From elco506 at austin.rr.com  Wed Aug 22 11:00:09 2007
From: elco506 at austin.rr.com (Brian Lundgren)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 12:00:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Looking for list members in SW Missouri
In-Reply-To: <174320.94014.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <174320.94014.qm@web81706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002101c7e4dd$e740afb0$6501a8c0@Brian>

Scott, you might try posting on mgexperience.net. There are many members
from Missouri and some from Arkansas on there.

Brian Lundgren


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+elco506=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+elco506=austin.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of SCOTT
BONACKER
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 10:40 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Looking for list members in SW Missouri

The Greater Ozarks British Motor Club (http://www.gobmc.org/) is looking for
a
few (more) good people for a current project. If you are near us, and are
not
already a member of the club, please contact me directly off list.
Thanks,
Scott Bonacker
'77 RBB
_______________________________________________
elco506 at austin.rr.com

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Aug 22 14:51:17 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:51:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
Message-ID: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com>

My Victor uses an MGB Brake Master Cylinder, the kind with the big 
cylindrical reservoir that leans forward, with the big round cap.

I sent it off to be reconditioned around four months ago, but it was 
returned finally last week with no work done. I'm pretty sure they 
didn't know how to get it apart.

I'm trying to do it myself now, but have run into a snag.

I got the spring clip off the actuator rod, then got the inner spring 
clip off easily.

The washer that the inner spring clip goes on top of is stuck in the 
bore. The actuator rod is moving easily, so I have tried to use its 
spring pressure to move the washer out, by pushing the rod all the way 
in and then releasing it so it hits the washer. I also tried banging the 
open end of the cylinder on a hardwood board, which compresses the 
spring on the actuator rod, hoping the weight of the assembly would move 
the washer out the bore, but it has not budged. I also tried tapping 
around the washer, hoping this might loosen its grip on the bore, but 
this didn't help either.

I'm heading for the parts store to get a spray can of Liquid Wrench, 
hoping that soaking the area of the washer overnight might help to 
loosen it.

The washer is stuck where it started, right below the groove where the inner spring washer rests.

Any suggestions or magic tricks, guys?
 
-The Roxter
--

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Wed Aug 22 15:09:18 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 14:09:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Roxter:

I hate to say this, but of all the bits on a 70-76 MGB I draw the line
at rebuilding the master cylinder.

I've never had very good luck getting the delrin spacer out, then you
have the dreaded clip to negotiate.

While new ones are still available, I just bite the bullet and install a
new one.




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of The Roxter
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 1:51 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
>
> My Victor uses an MGB Brake Master Cylinder, the kind with the big
> cylindrical reservoir that leans forward, with the big round cap.
>
> I sent it off to be reconditioned around four months ago, but it was
> returned finally last week with no work done. I'm pretty sure they
> didn't know how to get it apart.
>
> I'm trying to do it myself now, but have run into a snag.
>
> I got the spring clip off the actuator rod, then got the inner spring
> clip off easily.
>
> The washer that the inner spring clip goes on top of is stuck in the
> bore. The actuator rod is moving easily, so I have tried to use its
> spring pressure to move the washer out, by pushing the rod all the way
> in and then releasing it so it hits the washer. I also tried banging
the
> open end of the cylinder on a hardwood board, which compresses the
> spring on the actuator rod, hoping the weight of the assembly would
move
> the washer out the bore, but it has not budged. I also tried tapping
> around the washer, hoping this might loosen its grip on the bore, but
> this didn't help either.
>
> I'm heading for the parts store to get a spray can of Liquid Wrench,
> hoping that soaking the area of the washer overnight might help to
> loosen it.
>
> The washer is stuck where it started, right below the groove where the
> inner spring washer rests.
>
> Any suggestions or magic tricks, guys?
>
> -The Roxter

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 22 15:18:06 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 14:18:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <331268.52893.qm@web82307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dudes, please keep me plugged in on this topic.  I am
planning to rebuild my master cylinder and it is of
the same type described by The Roxter.  I've rebuilt a
few MCs before (Jaguars) but never an MGB.  As we
attack these beasts lets make sure to photograph and
document the procedure.  Kelvin makes a good point. 
If its a hard job then there's all the more reason to
document it.

best,

rick
'70 MGB split-bumper Tourer
Italian iron too 
--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> Roxter:
> 
> I hate to say this, but of all the bits on a 70-76
> MGB I draw the line
> at rebuilding the master cylinder.
> 
> I've never had very good luck getting the delrin
> spacer out, then you
> have the dreaded clip to negotiate.
> 
> While new ones are still available, I just bite the
> bullet and install a
> new one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-
> > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of The Roxter
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 1:51 PM
> > To: mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master
> Cylinder
> >
> > My Victor uses an MGB Brake Master Cylinder, the
> kind with the big
> > cylindrical reservoir that leans forward, with the
> big round cap.
> >
> > I sent it off to be reconditioned around four
> months ago, but it was
> > returned finally last week with no work done. I'm
> pretty sure they
> > didn't know how to get it apart.
> >
> > I'm trying to do it myself now, but have run into
> a snag.
> >
> > I got the spring clip off the actuator rod, then
> got the inner spring
> > clip off easily.
> >
> > The washer that the inner spring clip goes on top
> of is stuck in the
> > bore. The actuator rod is moving easily, so I have
> tried to use its
> > spring pressure to move the washer out, by pushing
> the rod all the way
> > in and then releasing it so it hits the washer. I
> also tried banging
> the
> > open end of the cylinder on a hardwood board,
> which compresses the
> > spring on the actuator rod, hoping the weight of
> the assembly would
> move
> > the washer out the bore, but it has not budged. I
> also tried tapping
> > around the washer, hoping this might loosen its
> grip on the bore, but
> > this didn't help either.
> >
> > I'm heading for the parts store to get a spray can
> of Liquid Wrench,
> > hoping that soaking the area of the washer
> overnight might help to
> > loosen it.
> >
> > The washer is stuck where it started, right below
> the groove where the
> > inner spring washer rests.
> >
> > Any suggestions or magic tricks, guys?
> >
> > -The Roxter

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Wed Aug 22 15:40:01 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:40:01 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AE0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I have done several master cylinders. The one presently in my 72B I have
owned for 25 years (was previously in my 71 BGT) and I have rebuilt it
three times over those years.

I am not sure about documenting it because it is hard to picture the
inside of the bore. But as far as the delrin spacer, I have ended up
destroying it to get it out but it comes with a replacement in the
master cylinder rebuild kit. I recall cutting it with a small, sharp
edged flat screwdriver to get it out. But once you get past that
obstacle, Kelvin mentions the next dreaded step - the clip. It's a bit
tricky to get the clip ring pressed (due to being deep in the bore) so
it comes out of its groove.

It's a tough job the first time you do one, but after that you know what
you face and you get a bit better at getting the spacer and the clip
out. Then there is always the chance that once you get it apart, you
realize that the bore has corrosion or rough spots. Then you would have
to end up buying a new master cylinder anyway and all that time would be
wasted.

Otherwise, besides the spacer and the snap ring, its pretty straight
forward.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Dodd, Kelvin
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:09 PM
To: The Roxter; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder

Roxter:

I hate to say this, but of all the bits on a 70-76 MGB I draw the line
at rebuilding the master cylinder.

I've never had very good luck getting the delrin spacer out, then you
have the dreaded clip to negotiate.

While new ones are still available, I just bite the bullet and install a
new one.




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Wed Aug 22 16:28:21 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 17:28:21 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AE0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
References: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AE0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <46CCB885.5000007@gmail.com>

Councill, David wrote:
> I have done several master cylinders. The one presently in my 72B I have
> owned for 25 years (was previously in my 71 BGT) and I have rebuilt it
> three times over those years.
>
> I am not sure about documenting it because it is hard to picture the
> inside of the bore. But as far as the delrin spacer, I have ended up
> destroying it to get it out but it comes with a replacement in the
> master cylinder rebuild kit. I recall cutting it with a small, sharp
> edged flat screwdriver to get it out. But once you get past that
> obstacle, Kelvin mentions the next dreaded step - the clip. It's a bit
> tricky to get the clip ring pressed (due to being deep in the bore) so
> it comes out of its groove.
>
> It's a tough job the first time you do one, but after that you know what
> you face and you get a bit better at getting the spacer and the clip
> out. Then there is always the chance that once you get it apart, you
> realize that the bore has corrosion or rough spots. Then you would have
> to end up buying a new master cylinder anyway and all that time would be
> wasted.
>
> Otherwise, besides the spacer and the snap ring, its pretty straight
> forward.
Does anybody have an exploded view of this MC or the instructions for its disassembly and can post it to me as an attachment (or a web address for same?).

I have a manual somewhere, but haven't been able to find it yet.

-The Roxter
--

From james.nazarian at gmail.com  Wed Aug 22 22:40:10 2007
From: james.nazarian at gmail.com (James Nazarian)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 00:40:10 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000401c7e53f$b0cf6270$6400a8c0@theendindeed>

If the ring doesn't come out easily I usually drill a series of holes in it
until I can break it apart and extract the bits with tweezers.

In my experience, the only rebuilds that are successful are those where the
MC was working when the car was parked and the seals disintegrated due to
age.  If the MC is worn to the point of leaking, then the bore is typically
worn enough that a rebuild won't last more than a few months.  For all the
hassle of installation, I'd just replace it unless you know for sure that it
was working prior to the car being laid up for decades.

James 

?-----Original Message-----
?From: mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net 
?[mailto:mgs-bounces+james.nazarian=gmail.com at autox.team.net] 
?On Behalf Of The Roxter
?Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 4:51 PM
?To: mgs at autox.team.net
?Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
?
?My Victor uses an MGB Brake Master Cylinder, the kind with the 
?big cylindrical reservoir that leans forward, with the big round cap.
?
?I sent it off to be reconditioned around four months ago, but 
?it was returned finally last week with no work done. I'm 
?pretty sure they didn't know how to get it apart.
?
?I'm trying to do it myself now, but have run into a snag.
?
?I got the spring clip off the actuator rod, then got the inner 
?spring clip off easily.
?
?The washer that the inner spring clip goes on top of is stuck 
?in the bore. The actuator rod is moving easily, so I have 
?tried to use its spring pressure to move the washer out, by 
?pushing the rod all the way in and then releasing it so it 
?hits the washer. I also tried banging the open end of the 
?cylinder on a hardwood board, which compresses the spring on 
?the actuator rod, hoping the weight of the assembly would move 
?the washer out the bore, but it has not budged. I also tried 
?tapping around the washer, hoping this might loosen its grip 
?on the bore, but this didn't help either.
?
?I'm heading for the parts store to get a spray can of Liquid 
?Wrench, hoping that soaking the area of the washer overnight 
?might help to loosen it.
?
?The washer is stuck where it started, right below the groove 
?where the inner spring washer rests.
?
?Any suggestions or magic tricks, guys?
? 
?-The Roxter
?--

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug 23 02:57:18 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:57:18 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
References: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AE0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<46CCB885.5000007@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007f01c7e564$335b72f0$0200a8c0@Three>

Lyndsay Porter in 'Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration of the MGB', 
republished as 'The MGB Restoration Manual', has a description and photos of 
how to rebuild this.  It includes the instruction to use an ice-pick and 
hammer to smash the white washer into many pieces.  It includes exploded and 
part cut-away diagrams of the MC with the differential switch.  My 1975 
Leyland Workshop Manual (and possibly also Bentley which is a copy) only has 
a cutaway of the one without the differential switch.  My 1989 Haynes has 
both of these.  Any one of these is essential, and there is an argument for 
having all three.  If you don't have any I strongly advise you get them.  Do 
it now.  If you use a copy of the information for this thinking you will get 
the manuals afterwards, you won't, and you will be stuck again for the next 
job.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Does anybody have an exploded view of this MC or the instructions for its 
> disassembly and can post it to me as an attachment (or a web address for 
> same?).

From palte at gmx.net  Thu Aug 23 06:17:33 2007
From: palte at gmx.net (palte at gmx.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:17:33 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net>

Hello fellow listers,

I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty steep.
Last year, I bought two of them for an already hefty EUR 135,-- (USD 175).

Unfortunately, I had to replace them again, as I did not use the car 
very often during the last year (that's an understatement) and I was stupid enough to forget to recharge them in time.

Today, I was charged EUR 250,-- (USD 310) for two of them
(in both cases including tax at 19%).

The argument was that they are difficult nowadays to obtain and 
that the cost of lead has gone up dramatically.

Have I been ripped off?

Bert
Holland, Europe
1970 MGB    
-- 
GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS.
Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Thu Aug 23 06:33:05 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 13:33:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6B6@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

I bought a pair from an on-line source in the UK a couple of years ago, #53
each.  About the same price over the counter from my local car parts store.
Just checked the same internet source now, they are #64 each, so they've gone
up a bit but not doubled like yours have!


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT)
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537 8635 08)

From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com  Thu Aug 23 06:56:25 2007
From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:56:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11166.1187872260.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF0521058D.32CC4314-ON85257340.0045E0F6-85257340.004714FD@exxonmobil.com>

It's been 6 years since I rebuilt the brake m/c in my 73 GT (the same one
as you are doing) and don't recall having any problems taking it apart,
even getting the spacer out (I think I used a dental tool).  The cir-clips
can be a problem and I did buy a good quality set of cir-clip pliers (with
long nose) which made getting the clips out easy.

As David said, you have to get the guts out before you can assess the
condition of the cylinder bore, fortunately mine was rebuildable.

There are several good m/c rebuilds, who can resleeve the cylinder in brass
or stainless steel, another option if you don't want to buy new.
Personally I think resleeving in stainless steel is a good idea, should be
a permanent fix in terms of the bore.

Mark
73 MGBGT
80 Spitfire

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:40:01 -0600
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder

I recall cutting it with a small, sharp edged flat screwdriver to get it
out. But once you get past that
obstacle, Kelvin mentions the next dreaded step - the clip. It's a bit
tricky to get the clip ring pressed (due to being deep in the bore) so it
comes out of its groove.

It's a tough job the first time you do one, but after that you know what
you face and you get a bit better at getting the spacer and the clip out.
Then there is always the chance that once you get it apart, you
realize that the bore has corrosion or rough spots. Then you would have to
end up buying a new master cylinder anyway and all that time would be
wasted.

Otherwise, besides the spacer and the snap ring, its pretty straight
forward.

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Thu Aug 23 07:10:37 2007
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:10:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <OF0521058D.32CC4314-ON85257340.0045E0F6-85257340.004714FD@exxonmobil.com>
References: <OF0521058D.32CC4314-ON85257340.0045E0F6-85257340.004714FD@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <a06230908c2f336fbfb90@[128.151.164.253]>

Have done a number of these and agree with Mark, a good pair of long 
nose cir- clip pliers is need to get the clip out. The rest I blow 
out. seal the front out let and use a air hose to the rear. cover it 
all in a rag and it pops right out.

paul

>It's been 6 years since I rebuilt the brake m/c in my 73 GT (the same one
>as you are doing) and don't recall having any problems taking it apart,
>even getting the spacer out (I think I used a dental tool).  The cir-clips
>can be a problem and I did buy a good quality set of cir-clip pliers (with
>long nose) which made getting the clips out easy.
>
>As David said, you have to get the guts out before you can assess the
>condition of the cylinder bore, fortunately mine was rebuildable.
>
>There are several good m/c rebuilds, who can resleeve the cylinder in brass
>or stainless steel, another option if you don't want to buy new.
>Personally I think resleeving in stainless steel is a good idea, should be
>a permanent fix in terms of the bore.
>
>Mark
>73 MGBGT
>80 Spitfire


-- 
Paul Osborne
University of Rochester
Engineering & Technical Services
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
201 Hopeman Bldg River Campus
Rochester, New York 14627
585-275-5226
paul at ece.rochester.edu

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 23 07:17:25 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:17:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <001e01c7e588$37579c70$8215a8c0@Garage.local>

most people that i know buy a single 12 volt.  is there a reason you wanted 
to stay with the old ones?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <palte at gmx.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 7:17 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries


> Hello fellow listers,
>
> I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty steep.
> Last year, I bought two of them for an already hefty EUR 135,-- (USD 175).
>
> Unfortunately, I had to replace them again, as I did not use the car
> very often during the last year (that's an understatement) and I was 
> stupid enough to forget to recharge them in time.
>
> Today, I was charged EUR 250,-- (USD 310) for two of them
> (in both cases including tax at 19%).
>
> The argument was that they are difficult nowadays to obtain and
> that the cost of lead has gone up dramatically.
>
> Have I been ripped off?
>
> Bert
> Holland, Europe
> 1970 MGB
> --  

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug 23 07:35:01 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:35:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net>
	<001e01c7e588$37579c70$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <002e01c7e58a$b25faa50$0200a8c0@Three>

You *were* ripped off!  Did you shop around?  MGOC is quoting #86 (including 
UK VAT at 17.5%) for a pair of 6v or #72 to #78 for a single 12v, and they 
aren't the cheapest.  That equates to Eur127 or $173 for the 6v.  You'd have 
to add shipping to that, but even so ...

Are you sure it is the batteries the are the problem?  Did you do a 
volt-drop check on the wiring and connectors?  Bad connections will make 
slightly weak, or even fully charged batteries look like they are nearly 
dead.  Mine can stand being left for 2 or 3 months without any charge and 
there is only a slight drop-off in cranking speed after that.  I've had 
these a while now, but they are only the 2nd set in 17 years.

Why stay with the old ones?  'Cos that's what the car came with.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
>> I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty steep.
>> Last year, I bought two of them for an already hefty EUR 135,-- (USD 
>> 175).

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Aug 23 07:37:59 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:37:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
Message-ID: <20070823.095620.3124.2.MGBOB@juno.com>

  The washer-looking thing is a spacer made of a hard white plastic,
Delrin, I believe.  Its fit is snug in the bore and I don't believe you
can get it to come out by banging it on a board; I could not do it.  I
drilled it and screwed in a self tap screw, which I could then hook and
pull on to remove the spacer.
   These MCs are difficult to work on, and I have not been able to get
them to not leak. Unless you fancy the challenge of it all, you might
want to buy a new one and be done with the hassle. 
Bob
 
On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:51:17 -0500 The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com>
writes:
> My Victor uses an MGB Brake Master Cylinder, the kind with the big 
> cylindrical reservoir that leans forward, with the big round cap.

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Aug 23 07:54:08 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:54:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <20070823.095620.3124.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

   Just last night I listened as a couple of Bentley owners talked about
6v batteries.
   Their observations were  ( this is in USA )  that 6v batteries
available these days are built with technology from the 1960s,  in small
numbers, and that they do not have a long life.  One said, as you did,
that he had a pair fail in a year, and that there was no 6v battery he
had found that was available with any warranty.  
   Expensive, unreliable and no warranty. Not good news for those who
want them.
   I use a single 12v in my '72 GT, as I tired of th 6v hassle some years
back. 
Bob
 
On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:17:33 +0200 palte at gmx.net writes:
> Hello fellow listers,
> 
> I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Thu Aug 23 08:04:31 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:04:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <001e01c7e588$37579c70$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net>
	<001e01c7e588$37579c70$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AE3@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

And this is why the 6 volt batteries are so expensive. Too many people
have converted to the 12 volt, usually the Group 26 battery, thus making
the 6 volt batteries scarce. I suspect the low demand also drives up the
manufacturing cost.

I prefer the two 6 volt batteries. They have always proved more reliable
and durable during extreme cold weather starting. I also seemed to
squeeze more service out of them, typically getting seven to eight years
of life out of them. The last set was at least that old when I tried to
replace them in my 67 BGT last year. After a few months, Sears claimed
they couldn't get them even through special order. NAPA claimed they had
them but I found they were substituting the larger 19L battery (used in
VW Beetles) at a cost of about $75 USD. A local battery shop here in
Montana had sold me the 17HFs for the past few decades and last time
they were about $45 USD each. Now they no longer have them in stock and
could order them in at $90 USD each. A search on the Internet also was
not helpful - the 6 volt batteries are now part of the antique/specialty
shops and expensive.

After all that, I decided to finally give in and convert my 67 BGT,
positive ground, to the 12 volt battery. I stand by my advocacy of the 6
volt batteries, cited above from personal experience. I don't buy the
old technology argument. But at less than half the cost and
availability, the 12 volt battery cannot be beat and its performance is
as good as the 2 6 volt batteries most of the time (more now since I
usually don't drive my MGs when temperatures get below 0 F; that's what
my land Rover with better heat is for).

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
01 Land Rover Discovery II
74 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Oliver
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 7:17 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries

most people that i know buy a single 12 volt.  is there a reason you
wanted
to stay with the old ones?

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 23 09:29:36 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 11:29:36 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <d40.11baf7df.33ff01e0@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/23/2007 7:37:40 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

Why stay  with the old ones?  'Cos that's what the car came  with.

PaulH.



The early ones came with bias ply tires too...you still running  those?

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 23 09:33:17 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 11:33:17 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <bea.182844c6.33ff02bd@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/23/2007 8:05:15 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
dcouncill at msubillings.edu writes:

I prefer  the two 6 volt batteries. They have always proved more reliable
and durable  during extreme cold weather starting.


So why not go with two 12 volt batteries wired parallel?  This  should work
even better than the two six volt batteries...and be cheaper  too.

My 74.5 came with a single 12 volt, as have most all cars since then...with
the exception of heavy duty pickups and SUVs which sometimes come with dual
12's.

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 23 09:57:08 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:57:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <580839.41797.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- palte at gmx.net wrote:


> I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty
> steep.
> Last year, I bought two of them for an already hefty EUR 135,--
> (USD 175).

> Today, I was charged EUR 250,-- (USD 310) for two of them
> (in both cases including tax at 19%).


Holy cats!  And I whined when I had to buy a set this spring
(after three years) for $120!  That's before sales tax, which
in this state is close to 10%, but if I'd bought them through
the mail the total would have been just about the same with
shipping, and I'd have had to paid to get them filled, too.  

Either you're paying some nasty tariff, or ecology tax, or
something, or you found a terrible source.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 23 10:01:28 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:01:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <20070823.095620.3124.3.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <823539.72699.qm@web42109.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:


>    Their observations were  ( this is in USA )  that 6v batteries
> available these days are built with technology from the 1960s,  in
> small
> numbers, and that they do not have a long life.  One said, as you
> did,
> that he had a pair fail in a year, and that there was no 6v battery
> he had found that was available with any warranty.  


The ones I replaced had a warrantee, but they'd been put in
service about a half year before the restoration was complete,
so after close to 4 years in service (even though I'd been
driving with them for only three) the warrantee coverage had
expired.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato? 
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz 

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Thu Aug 23 10:01:40 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:01:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <s6cd4d00.065@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

The batteries we get in the US are made in Tijuana by children, so we US
consumers score big time.  Thank you NAFTA!


>>> David Breneman <david_breneman at yahoo.com> 8/23/2007 8:57:08 AM >>>
--- palte at gmx.net wrote:


> I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty
> steep.
> Last year, I bought two of them for an already hefty EUR 135,--
> (USD 175).

> Today, I was charged EUR 250,-- (USD 310) for two of them
> (in both cases including tax at 19%).


Holy cats!  And I whined when I had to buy a set this spring
(after three years) for $120!  That's before sales tax, which
in this state is close to 10%, but if I'd bought them through
the mail the total would have been just about the same with
shipping, and I'd have had to paid to get them filled, too.  

Either you're paying some nasty tariff, or ecology tax, or
something, or you found a terrible source.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 23 10:05:43 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:05:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <d40.11baf7df.33ff01e0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <920206.42168.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- RampantNM at aol.com wrote:


> The early ones came with bias ply tires too...you still running 
> those?


A set of bias play tires occupy the same place in the timespace
continuum as a set of radial tires.  However, substituting one
bettery for two leaves a void in timespace and therefore disrupts
the MG universe.  Simple quantum physics.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search 
that gives answers, not web links. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Aug 23 10:28:32 2007
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 11:28:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <920206.42168.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <920206.42168.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46CDB5B0.2040206@wi.net>

Then all is well in the t-s-c in my part of the universe with my 1959 
MGA 1500 with twin 6v batteries, 48 spoke wire wheels, and Dunlop Gold 
Seals, which are a blast in controlled oversteer situations and I don't 
break spokes.

Now if I could only get the T.A.R.D.I.S. running.  I must perform some 
"percussive maintenance".

Dave
Burlington WI


David Breneman wrote:
> --- RampantNM at aol.com wrote:
>   
>> The early ones came with bias ply tires too...you still running 
>> those?
>>     
>
>
> A set of bias play tires occupy the same place in the timespace
> continuum as a set of radial tires.  However, substituting one
> bettery for two leaves a void in timespace and therefore disrupts
> the MG universe.  Simple quantum physics.
>
>
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug 23 10:35:49 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:35:49 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <bea.182844c6.33ff02bd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>

Fine while the two batteries exhibit exactly the same characteristics.  When 
one or other starts departing from that one will always discharge slightly 
into the other.  Two 12v are nearly double the cost of two 6v from the same 
source.  Hardly surprising, really, when they have double the contents.

And does anybody have real evidence that the 6v batteries are made with 50s 
technology and haven't moved on like the 12v have?  They may be, but there 
is absolutely no reason for it.  Given the small cost difference between two 
sixes and one 12 I would say they made the same.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> So why not go with two 12 volt batteries wired parallel?  This  should 
> work
> even better than the two six volt batteries...and be cheaper  too.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug 23 10:29:52 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:29:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <d40.11baf7df.33ff01e0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006701c7e5a3$ad0a1ea0$0200a8c0@Three>

Mine didn't, but I know of people who do.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
The early ones came with bias ply tires too...you still running  those?  

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug 23 10:37:06 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:37:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <920206.42168.qm@web42104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<46CDB5B0.2040206@wi.net>
Message-ID: <006f01c7e5a3$da652480$0200a8c0@Three>

Hmmm, maybe that is the solution to my breaking spokes ...

----- Original Message ----- 
>  Dunlop Gold 
> Seals ... and I don't 
> break spokes.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug 23 10:57:43 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:57:43 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Modern high output batteries have smaller gaps between the plates than
earlier batteries had. This gives higher output in a smaller package,
but does make them more prone to sulfating if they are not kept fully
charged.

The typical 6 volt battery sold by classic car sources that I'm familiar
with still has the old style plate designs and is going to be less prone
to sulfating.

The twin sixes are a cool period thing, so I'm in favor of keeping the
sixes available so owners have a chance to experience the cars as
original. The sixes have a lot of cranking power to turn the old style
starter motor over against the higher compression of a sports engine.

MG went to a single 12v battery as soon as technology got to the point
that they were able to source a small enough battery with adequate
cranking power. It makes sense for those on a budget to move to a modern
small package high output single 12V battery to replace the heavy sixes
taking advantage of more modern technology in an area that is reversible
and unseen.

If anyone is interested in my personal opinion. I'm now sold on the itty
bitty gel cell made by Westco for use in the back of the Mazda Miata.

It is small and light enough to pick up with one hand and has more than
enough cranking power for most of our cars which are typically only used
during the warmer 3 seasons.

I get a bit confused with the concept of installing huge output
batteries like the Optima in a car with a 35 amp alternator. I use
Optima batteries to start my diesel backhoe and a couple in my diesel
truck. I guess if you want to be able to drive round the block on the
starter motor they make sense. Somewhat cheaper than buying a Prius.




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 9:36 AM
> To: RampantNM at aol.com; dcouncill at msubillings.edu;
sumton at sbcglobal.net;
> mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
>
> Fine while the two batteries exhibit exactly the same characteristics.
> When
> one or other starts departing from that one will always discharge
slightly
> into the other.  Two 12v are nearly double the cost of two 6v from the
> same
> source.  Hardly surprising, really, when they have double the
contents.
>
> And does anybody have real evidence that the 6v batteries are made
with
> 50s
> technology and haven't moved on like the 12v have?  They may be, but
there
> is absolutely no reason for it.  Given the small cost difference
between
> two
> sixes and one 12 I would say they made the same.
>
> PaulH.

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 11:02:12 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:02:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <20070823.095620.3124.2.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20070823.095620.3124.2.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <46CDBD94.1070203@gmail.com>

Bob Howard wrote:
>   The washer-looking thing is a spacer made of a hard white plastic,
> Delrin, I believe.  Its fit is snug in the bore and I don't believe you
> can get it to come out by banging it on a board; I could not do it.  I
> drilled it and screwed in a self tap screw, which I could then hook and
> pull on to remove the spacer.
>   

Yes, I discovered that last night, did the same & it worked.
>    These MCs are difficult to work on, and I have not been able to get
> them to not leak. Unless you fancy the challenge of it all, you might
> want to buy a new one and be done with the hassle. 
I'm going to Sears today to buy the long-nosed circlip pliars. I will be honing the bore before reassembling.

-The Roxter
--

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 23 11:12:55 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:12:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <01fc01c7e5a8$d90469c0$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<I guess if you want to be able to drive round the block on the starter motor
they make sense. Somewhat cheaper than buying a Prius.>>

LOL, Kelvin!!!!!

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug 23 11:15:28 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 10:15:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <46CDBD94.1070203@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9344A4@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Roxter:

Let us know how you get on and also the part number of the pliers if you
find they work well.

I've got 3 or 4 cylinders around and am willing to revise my opinion on
rebuilding them if you get good results.



Kelvin Dodd

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of The Roxter
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 10:02 AM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
>
> Bob Howard wrote:
> >   The washer-looking thing is a spacer made of a hard white plastic,
> > Delrin, I believe.  Its fit is snug in the bore and I don't believe
you
> > can get it to come out by banging it on a board; I could not do it.
I
> > drilled it and screwed in a self tap screw, which I could then hook
and
> > pull on to remove the spacer.
> >
>
> Yes, I discovered that last night, did the same & it worked.
> >    These MCs are difficult to work on, and I have not been able to
get
> > them to not leak. Unless you fancy the challenge of it all, you
might
> > want to buy a new one and be done with the hassle.
> I'm going to Sears today to buy the long-nosed circlip pliars. I will
be
> honing the bore before reassembling.
>
> -The Roxter
> --

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 11:26:51 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:26:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000401c7e53f$b0cf6270$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
References: <000401c7e53f$b0cf6270$6400a8c0@theendindeed>
Message-ID: <46CDC35B.3050504@gmail.com>

James Nazarian wrote:
> If the ring doesn't come out easily I usually drill a series of holes in it
> until I can break it apart and extract the bits with tweezers.
>
> In my experience, the only rebuilds that are successful are those where the
> MC was working when the car was parked and the seals disintegrated due to
> age.  If the MC is worn to the point of leaking, then the bore is typically
> worn enough that a rebuild won't last more than a few months.  For all the
> hassle of installation, I'd just replace it unless you know for sure that it
> was working prior to the car being laid up for decades.
>   
I'm going to give it a try, but I'm going to hone the bore before reassembling.

-The Roxter
--

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 23 11:33:27 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 10:33:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9344A4@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <589860.53574.qm@web82310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Gang,

   Back a lifetime or two ago I hade a '63 E-type with
a trashed master cylinder.  It came apart easily
enough but there was surface rust in the bore.  To
address this I selected a dowel rod a couple
millimeters smaller diamtere than the bore and taped
onto it a length of paper towel.  That was the
cussion.  I then wrapped a length of 1000# emery
cloth.  Both were taped to the dowell and wrapped the
same direction.  I oiled this home-made tool up and
cleaned the bore rotating only in the direction of the
wrap while cycling the tool in and out.  It took a few
oil cleanings and replacement cloths but the bore
polished up beautifully.

   Was this high tech - or even recommended?  Probably
not but it did make for a fine working master cylinder
without problems.  Please remember that the seal is
rubber on steel, not steel on steel, so the bore needs
to be very smooth, but not necessarily of perfect
geometry.

   Yea, I know.  Someone is going to write, "And you
trust your LIFE to such a procedure?"  The answer is
yes when I did the work.  In fact, I'd probably trust
that further than some outfit that rebuilds these
things in their off time between Ford and Chevy jobs.

   Advice is worth what you paid for it...

rick

--- "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

> Roxter:
> 
> Let us know how you get on and also the part number
> of the pliers if you
> find they work well.
> 
> I've got 3 or 4 cylinders around and am willing to
> revise my opinion on
> rebuilding them if you get good results.
> 
> 
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-
> > bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of The Roxter
> > Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 10:02 AM
> > To: mgs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake
> Master Cylinder
> >
> > Bob Howard wrote:
> > >   The washer-looking thing is a spacer made of a
> hard white plastic,
> > > Delrin, I believe.  Its fit is snug in the bore
> and I don't believe
> you
> > > can get it to come out by banging it on a board;
> I could not do it.
> I
> > > drilled it and screwed in a self tap screw,
> which I could then hook
> and
> > > pull on to remove the spacer.
> > >
> >
> > Yes, I discovered that last night, did the same &
> it worked.
> > >    These MCs are difficult to work on, and I
> have not been able to
> get
> > > them to not leak. Unless you fancy the challenge
> of it all, you
> might
> > > want to buy a new one and be done with the
> hassle.
> > I'm going to Sears today to buy the long-nosed
> circlip pliars. I will
> be
> > honing the bore before reassembling.
> >
> > -The Roxter

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 11:34:02 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:34:02 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <OF0521058D.32CC4314-ON85257340.0045E0F6-85257340.004714FD@exxonmobil.com>
References: <OF0521058D.32CC4314-ON85257340.0045E0F6-85257340.004714FD@exxonmobil.com>
Message-ID: <46CDC50A.5050809@gmail.com>

mark.jones at exxonmobil.com wrote:
> It's been 6 years since I rebuilt the brake m/c in my 73 GT (the same one
> as you are doing) and don't recall having any problems taking it apart,
> even getting the spacer out (I think I used a dental tool).  The cir-clips
> can be a problem and I did buy a good quality set of cir-clip pliers (with
> long nose) which made getting the clips out easy.
>
> As David said, you have to get the guts out before you can assess the
> condition of the cylinder bore, fortunately mine was rebuildable.
>
> There are several good m/c rebuilds, who can resleeve the cylinder in brass
> or stainless steel, another option if you don't want to buy new.
> Personally I think resleeving in stainless steel is a good idea, should be
> a permanent fix in terms of the bore.
If it's too bad to just hone it, I'm planning to do exactly that.

-The Roxter
--

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 23 11:51:34 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 13:51:34 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <d45.11451c70.33ff2326@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/23/2007 10:36:35 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

Two 12v  are nearly double the cost of two 6v from the same
source.  Hardly  surprising, really, when they have double the  contents.



I thought this thread began with a complaint about the high cost of 6  volt
batteries.  $150 bucks will get two good 12 volts around here, and  $100
should
do it if you watch for sales.

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug 23 11:52:27 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 10:52:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
In-Reply-To: <450376.71318.qm@web50909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9344C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I just wanted to say "thank you" for all the positive comments.


Dan's comment was taken as intended; the flashback was a good reminder
of how important it is to read posts carefully and give posters the
benefit of any doubt.

Albert, I love and appreciate his jumping to my defense albeit
precipitously.

My participation on the list is not required, requested or really even
condoned by Moss Motors. I've participated as an MG owner and enthusiast
for many years beneath the managerial radar, starting out with a Mac
Plus on my desk with a bootlegged fax line for dial up connection.

The owners of Moss exhibited a high degree of trust and farsightedness
by giving all of the staff access to the internet a few years ago. Most
employees use their access for non work related hobbies. I get away with
using it for my hobby, which just happens to also be my area of
employment.

I'm not savvy enough to play with extra e-mail accounts, nor have the
free time (or eyesight) in the evenings to be on the computer. Hence the
moss motors address. I do have one Avatar on one MG mailing list, but
will leave that for the detectives in the group, (gotta be a bit naughty
some of the time : )

I did drive my MGB to work today. It's the one sitting out front on the
pretty grass apron that Moss put in just for employees who drive British
cars. Unfortunately it's often empty as we also have issues keeping our
cars on the road and dodging commuting traffic.

Kelvin.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 11:03 AM
> To: Carl French; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
>
> Carl, Barrie and Albert totally misread a note I posted intended to be
> humorous, as evidenced by '<VVVVBG>' and ';-)' and immediately jumped
to
> an (unneeded, certainly, by me) defense of Kelvin.
>
> Suffice it to say, I won't be posting any humor here without writing
'THIS
> IS INTENDED TO BE A JOKE, FOLKS'.
>
> Dan

From 1971mgb at cox.net  Thu Aug 23 12:09:49 2007
From: 1971mgb at cox.net (1971-red-mgb)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:09:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] bad connection
Message-ID: <001001c7e5b0$cb94a630$3537a046@ownerlziq1i9t3>

thanks to everyone that helped me figure out the problem with my Blinker not
working, PaulH I did as you suggested and went to the connectors at the fuse
box and you were absolutely right, I had a bad connection there, cleaned it
up, blinker work

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 12:54:35 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 11:54:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>

Kelvin,



On 8/23/07, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
> I get a bit confused with the concept of installing huge output
> batteries like the Optima in a car with a 35 amp alternator. I use
> Optima batteries to start my diesel backhoe and a couple in my diesel
> truck. I guess if you want to be able to drive round the block on the
> starter motor they make sense. Somewhat cheaper than buying a Prius.

A PO installed a group 24 battery in my MGA. This was done by
extending one of the battery trays. The group 24 battery is about 50%
larger than  a group 26, which is the normal 6v replacement. This
gives a significantly higher capacity, which means that when my
generator stops working, I can reliably get home without worrying
about the battery dying on me! The only problem with this is that
getting the group 24 battery into and out of the tray is quite a feat.

Regarding the Prius, did you see that Steve Wozniak (sp?) was stopped
for doing 104 in a Prius. Who knew that Prius-es were capable of more
than 100mph?

Regards,
Simon.

From hardt at sonic.net  Thu Aug 23 13:25:57 2007
From: hardt at sonic.net (Ron Engelhardt)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:25:57 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46CDDF45.1070209@sonic.net>

Simon Matthews wrote:
> Regarding the Prius, did you see that Steve Wozniak (sp?) was stopped
> for doing 104 in a Prius. Who knew that Prius-es were capable of more
> than 100mph?
> 


Heh, surprised me when Al Gore's kid got a ticket for driving one over 
100 in Southern Cal somewhere. Must be that the shape slips through the 
air efficiently because it can't be just horsepower.

Ron

58 MGA (might do 100)

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 13:30:15 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:30:15 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9344A4@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9344A4@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <46CDE047.7010006@gmail.com>

Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> Roxter:
>
> Let us know how you get on and also the part number of the pliers if you
> find they work well.
>
> I've got 3 or 4 cylinders around and am willing to revise my opinion on
> rebuilding them if you get good results. 
Will do. If the bore doesn't look honable, I plan to have it sleeved.

-The Roxter
--

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Thu Aug 23 13:50:58 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 15:50:58 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <d58.11c0939d.33ff3f22@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/23/2007 9:58:13 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

I get a  bit confused with the concept of installing huge output
batteries like the  Optima in a car with a 35 amp alternator. I use
Optima batteries to start  my diesel backhoe and a couple in my diesel
truck. I guess if you want to  be able to drive round the block on the
starter motor they make sense.  Somewhat cheaper than buying a Prius.   
____________________________________
 
I agree. Having heavy duty batteries in a street MG is overkill, just  like 
putting a high torque starter is overkill, unless the difference in price  is 
insignificant. The stock starter spins them just fine, and a regular 12 volt  
battery works just dandy.
 
Having 2 6 volt batteries 'because it is original' is, IMHO, silly. More  
connections to go wrong, more weight, more expense and for what?  No real  world 
advantage I can see - they don't even judge under the cars in concours so  
that isn't an excuse.
 
My battery kacked on me in the 62 coupe this year so I may look at the  Miata 
battery, thanks for the suggestion Kelvin.
 
bill

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug 23 14:09:08 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:09:08 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
References: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AE0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
Message-ID: <001f01c7e5c1$76940750$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

The Sydney Porter book How to Restore and ... MGB describes this process 
quite well.

Cheers,

Hans

1971 BGT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill at msubillings.edu>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder


>I have done several master cylinders. The one presently in my 72B I have
> owned for 25 years (was previously in my 71 BGT) and I have rebuilt it
> three times over those years.
>
> I am not sure about documenting it because it is hard to picture the
> inside of the bore. But as far as the delrin spacer, I have ended up
> destroying it to get it out but it comes with a replacement in the
> master cylinder rebuild kit. I recall cutting it with a small, sharp
> edged flat screwdriver to get it out. But once you get past that
> obstacle, Kelvin mentions the next dreaded step - the clip. It's a bit
> tricky to get the clip ring pressed (due to being deep in the bore) so
> it comes out of its groove.
>
> It's a tough job the first time you do one, but after that you know what
> you face and you get a bit better at getting the spacer and the clip
> out. Then there is always the chance that once you get it apart, you
> realize that the bore has corrosion or rough spots. Then you would have
> to end up buying a new master cylinder anyway and all that time would be
> wasted.
>
> Otherwise, besides the spacer and the snap ring, its pretty straight
> forward.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Dodd, Kelvin
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:09 PM
> To: The Roxter; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
>
> Roxter:
>
> I hate to say this, but of all the bits on a 70-76 MGB I draw the line
> at rebuilding the master cylinder.
>
> I've never had very good luck getting the delrin spacer out, then you
> have the dreaded clip to negotiate.
>
> While new ones are still available, I just bite the bullet and install a
> new one.
>
>
>
>
> Kelvin Dodd

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug 23 14:09:18 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 13:09:18 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries/now starters
In-Reply-To: <d58.11c0939d.33ff3f22@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C93451E@kb1.mossmotors.com>

The little gear reduction starters do make sense if you are continuing
the thought of adding modern upgrades.

They are lighter, take less current and offer a more positive engagement
than the earlier spring type starters.

Not for everyone, but they definitely do have advantages in some areas.

As with all things there are a few down sides, such as cost, required
wiring changes, the evil noise and ensuring adequate terminal
insulation.

For some applications such as the Rover V8 they are a definite godsend.


Come to think of it, the harsh rip of my Rover SD1 starter is a lot more
comforting than the slow grinding of the original one in my MGB. But at
over 150,000 miles it's probably earned it's slowness, kinda like me
getting up in the morning.


Kelvin.




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
WSpohn4 at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 12:51 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
> ____________________________________
>
> I agree. Having heavy duty batteries in a street MG is overkill, just
> like
> putting a high torque starter is overkill, unless the difference in
price
> is
> insignificant. The stock starter spins them just fine, and a regular
12
> volt
> battery works just dandy.
>
> Having 2 6 volt batteries 'because it is original' is, IMHO, silly.
More
> connections to go wrong, more weight, more expense and for what?  No
real
> world
> advantage I can see - they don't even judge under the cars in concours
so
> that isn't an excuse.
>
> My battery kacked on me in the 62 coupe this year so I may look at the
> Miata
> battery, thanks for the suggestion Kelvin.
>
> bill

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug 23 14:15:22 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:15:22 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <20070823121733.116940@gmx.net>
Message-ID: <002901c7e5c2$557fe650$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Hey Bert,

I have been there 2 years ago. - See the list archives.
My advise is simple to switch over to one type 12 V battery, which fits into 
the right battery box.

I did this change with great sucess - better power on a cheap and reliable 
battery - VARTA!
If you like you may contact me directly for advise on the right model 
number.

Cheers,

Hans

1971 BGT.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <palte at gmx.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 2:17 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries


> Hello fellow listers,
>
> I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty steep.
> Last year, I bought two of them for an already hefty EUR 135,-- (USD 175).
>
> Unfortunately, I had to replace them again, as I did not use the car
> very often during the last year (that's an understatement) and I was 
> stupid enough to forget to recharge them in time.
>
> Today, I was charged EUR 250,-- (USD 310) for two of them
> (in both cases including tax at 19%).
>
> The argument was that they are difficult nowadays to obtain and
> that the cost of lead has gone up dramatically.
>
> Have I been ripped off?
>
> Bert
> Holland, Europe
> 1970 MGB

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug 23 14:24:00 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:24:00 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <580839.41797.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004401c7e5c3$8a158cc0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Yes guys,

Seems Bert has been ripped somehow.
But beware that the constant falling $ against the EURO certainly gives a 
contribution to the (virtual) price gap.

I have paid some EURO 55 for one 12 V battery some 2 years ago, so I expect 
the current price is about 60 EUR in the Netherlands.

Cheers,

Hans

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Breneman" <david_breneman at yahoo.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries


> --- palte at gmx.net wrote:
>
>
>> I was shocked to find that the cost of two 6V batteries is pretty
>> steep.
>> Last year, I bought two of them for an already hefty EUR 135,--
>> (USD 175).
>
>> Today, I was charged EUR 250,-- (USD 310) for two of them
>> (in both cases including tax at 19%).
>
>
> Holy cats!  And I whined when I had to buy a set this spring
> (after three years) for $120!  That's before sales tax, which
> in this state is close to 10%, but if I'd bought them through
> the mail the total would have been just about the same with
> shipping, and I'd have had to paid to get them filled, too.
>
> Either you're paying some nasty tariff, or ecology tax, or
> something, or you found a terrible source.
>
>
> David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug 23 14:38:15 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:38:15 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Try to find the Prius test by Top Gear.
The car has a very bad road behaviour, so I would dare to drive that fast 
with it.

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>
Cc: <RampantNM at aol.com>; <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries


> Kelvin,
>
>
>
> On 8/23/07, Dodd, Kelvin <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>> I get a bit confused with the concept of installing huge output
>> batteries like the Optima in a car with a 35 amp alternator. I use
>> Optima batteries to start my diesel backhoe and a couple in my diesel
>> truck. I guess if you want to be able to drive round the block on the
>> starter motor they make sense. Somewhat cheaper than buying a Prius.
>
> A PO installed a group 24 battery in my MGA. This was done by
> extending one of the battery trays. The group 24 battery is about 50%
> larger than  a group 26, which is the normal 6v replacement. This
> gives a significantly higher capacity, which means that when my
> generator stops working, I can reliably get home without worrying
> about the battery dying on me! The only problem with this is that
> getting the group 24 battery into and out of the tray is quite a feat.
>
> Regarding the Prius, did you see that Steve Wozniak (sp?) was stopped
> for doing 104 in a Prius. Who knew that Prius-es were capable of more
> than 100mph?
>
> Regards,
> Simon.
> _______________________________________________
> h.duinhoven at planet.nl
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 23-8-2007 
> 16:04

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 14:46:23 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 13:46:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
	<006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/23/07, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
> Try to find the Prius test by Top Gear.
> The car has a very bad road behaviour, so I would dare to drive that fast
> with it.

I doubt that it is worse than any of the large SUVs seen speeding up
and down I5 (main north-south highway in California)

Regards,
Simon

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug 23 15:10:42 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 23:10:42 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
	<006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

M have to correct myself - I would NOT dare to drive a Pius with such speed.

Yes SUV's may well be worse, but basicly these things have been designed on 
a truck basis.
And we all know trucks are made for carrying loads at speeds of about 50 - 
70 mph and not 100!
Recently a TV special was broadcast overhere about how the SUV was born - 
caused by a Californian law with all kind of restrictions for normal cars, 
which were not applicable for trucks.

So the truck was equipped with some seats and voila the SUV was born....
SUV should not be used for moving people - these cars are fuel swallowing 
monsters with the worst road manners. Best is to put the Prius engine into 
the SUV, which will lower the power and speed of the SUV to safe limits. 
Will safe some fuel as well.

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
Cc: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>; <RampantNM at aol.com>; 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries


> On 8/23/07, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>> Try to find the Prius test by Top Gear.
>> The car has a very bad road behaviour, so I would dare to drive that fast
>> with it.
>
> I doubt that it is worse than any of the large SUVs seen speeding up
> and down I5 (main north-south highway in California)
>
> Regards,
> Simon

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 15:18:42 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:18:42 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
	<006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
	<008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <40b437200708231418y310b6cefr810db0fbb19d56f6@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/23/07, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
> M have to correct myself - I would NOT dare to drive a Pius with such
speed.
>
> Yes SUV's may well be worse, but basicly these things have been designed on
> a truck basis.
> And we all know trucks are made for carrying loads at speeds of about 50 -
> 70 mph and not 100!
> Recently a TV special was broadcast overhere about how the SUV was born -
> caused by a Californian law with all kind of restrictions for normal cars,
> which were not applicable for trucks.

Minivans (designed for families) originally "benefitted" from the same
exemptions -- they were originally treated as trucks.

>
> So the truck was equipped with some seats and voila the SUV was born....
> SUV should not be used for moving people - these cars are fuel swallowing
> monsters with the worst road manners. Best is to put the Prius engine into
> the SUV, which will lower the power and speed of the SUV to safe limits.
> Will safe some fuel as well.

Will not happen any time soon. DId you know that you can buy
motorcycles with larger engines than my MGA (or a Prius).  Also, it is
somewhat impractical: we do have significant hills in California.  I
am amazed that the Prius can make it up some of these hills.

Regards,
Simon

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 23 15:34:47 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 16:34:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com><40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com><006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c><40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
	<008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <008401c7e5cd$6e312780$6401a8c0@actualshop>

<<And we all know trucks are made for carrying loads at speeds of about 50 -
70 mph and not 100!>>

Ha!!  I've been PASSED while doing 80mph by a "Big Rig", Hans!!  About a 70
foot-long one!!

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug 23 15:42:46 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 23:42:46 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
	<006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
	<008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<40b437200708231418y310b6cefr810db0fbb19d56f6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00a601c7e5ce$8b4ea800$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

Do not take my words on this subject to serious Simon.
I agree that some motorcycles are far overpowered and become very dangerous 
in hands of inexperienced people. It all comes back to how far the freedom 
of choice may go against other interests.

And about cars with minimal power climbing hills I just can say, that 
changing gears will help overthere. The speed will be lowered, but the car 
will reach its goal at the end.
In the fifties France was floaded by the little Citroen 2CV, producing less 
than 25 HP at these days.
I can confirm from my last holidays last week, that France have serious 
mountains and the 2CV was able to climb these still, though its speed was 
low.

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
Cc: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com>; <RampantNM at aol.com>; 
<mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries


On 8/23/07, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
> M have to correct myself - I would NOT dare to drive a Pius with such 
> speed.
>
> Yes SUV's may well be worse, but basicly these things have been designed 
> on
> a truck basis.
> And we all know trucks are made for carrying loads at speeds of about 50 -
> 70 mph and not 100!
> Recently a TV special was broadcast overhere about how the SUV was born -
> caused by a Californian law with all kind of restrictions for normal cars,
> which were not applicable for trucks.

Minivans (designed for families) originally "benefitted" from the same
exemptions -- they were originally treated as trucks.

>
> So the truck was equipped with some seats and voila the SUV was born....
> SUV should not be used for moving people - these cars are fuel swallowing
> monsters with the worst road manners. Best is to put the Prius engine into
> the SUV, which will lower the power and speed of the SUV to safe limits.
> Will safe some fuel as well.

Will not happen any time soon. DId you know that you can buy
motorcycles with larger engines than my MGA (or a Prius).  Also, it is
somewhat impractical: we do have significant hills in California.  I
am amazed that the Prius can make it up some of these hills.

Regards,
Simon

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Aug 23 15:51:54 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 23:51:54 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com><40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com><006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c><40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com><008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<008401c7e5cd$6e312780$6401a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <00aa01c7e5cf$d1e73510$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

VERY dangerous I think.
Luckily the truck engines overhere are (or ought to be) limited to somewhat 
90 Km/h = 57 m/h.
Often road accidents mentioned during traffic information are caused by 
trucks, which were not able to brake in one line, so the trailor was 
overtaking the truck and by this "wiping off" other traffic from the road.
I admit that the need for such emergency brake actions may well be triggered 
by misbehaving other trafficers.
But the point is, that vehicles should move with such a speed, that it can 
be stopped within reasonable distance and time limits. A 70 feet Big Rig 
speeding @ 80 is a real killer I think.

Safety Fast!

Cheers,

Hans


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WJHS1960" <WJHS1960 at comcast.net>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries


> <<And we all know trucks are made for carrying loads at speeds of about 
> 50 -
> 70 mph and not 100!>>
>
> Ha!!  I've been PASSED while doing 80mph by a "Big Rig", Hans!!  About a 
> 70
> foot-long one!!
> _______________________________________________
> h.duinhoven at planet.nl
>
> Edit your replies

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 23 15:53:11 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:53:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <926027.50428.qm@web42102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews at gmail.com> wrote:

> I doubt that it is worse than any of the large SUVs seen speeding
> up and down I5 (main north-south highway in California)

While not exactly "large" by SUV criteria, my Chevy Trailblazer
does very well in the upper 80s and low 90s.

 ...uh ...so I've heard!    Yeah.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
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Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/  

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 23 15:50:49 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:50:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <40b437200708231418y310b6cefr810db0fbb19d56f6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C2F34F49.12AB9%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

People seem to have a misapprehension about the Prius. Just because it is
economical does not mean it is underpowered. My understanding its that it
has the capability to kick in the electric motor for a "turbo boost" at full
throttle. Considering that either power source by itself is enough to
accelerate it at a moderate rate, both together should be more than
adequate.

I suspect one factor is that the sort of persons who are inclined to buy a
Prius are not inclined to "burn up the road"... In other words, they drive
like grannies... (exceptions noted)

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/23/07 2:18 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews at gmail.com wrote:

> Will not happen any time soon. DId you know that you can buy
> motorcycles with larger engines than my MGA (or a Prius).  Also, it is
> somewhat impractical: we do have significant hills in California.  I
> am amazed that the Prius can make it up some of these hills.
> 
> Regards,
> Simon

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 16:30:23 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:30:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears
Message-ID: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com>

The long-nosed pliers from Sears worked a charm! They are actually quite 
small.

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/pliars.jpg

Craftsman PN = # _9_ 45661

The inner parts of the MC are really bad. Have ordered a new one.

DPO obviously tried to recondition the unit, terrible vice-grip marks all over the shaft & gouges on inner cylinder walls. Useless.

Thanks for the advice and assistance. You guys are the best!

-The Roxter
--

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 16:33:30 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:33:30 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <d58.11c0939d.33ff3f22@aol.com>
References: <d58.11c0939d.33ff3f22@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46CE0B3A.3050007@gmail.com>

WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
>  Having 2 6 volt batteries 'because it is original' is, IMHO, silly. More  
> connections to go wrong, more weight, more expense and for what?  No real  world 
> advantage I can see - they don't even judge under the cars in concours so  
> that isn't an excuse.
I was once told by a friend who was an MG factory mechanic that the two six-volts were used because the MGA was slightly light in the rear end and the added weight fixed that.

Might be apocryphal rather than gospel, but he certainly believed it.

-The Roxter
--

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Thu Aug 23 16:34:26 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 15:34:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears
In-Reply-To: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934580@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Roxter:

Great work.




Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of The Roxter
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:30 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears
>
> The long-nosed pliers from Sears worked a charm! They are actually
quite
> small.
>
> http://www.rockyfrisco.com/pliars.jpg
>
> Craftsman PN = # _9_ 45661
>
> The inner parts of the MC are really bad. Have ordered a new one.
>
> DPO obviously tried to recondition the unit, terrible vice-grip marks
all
> over the shaft & gouges on inner cylinder walls. Useless.
>
> Thanks for the advice and assistance. You guys are the best!
>
> -The Roxter
> --
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 23 16:38:23 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:38:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears
References: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <066d01c7e5d6$50c3cdc0$6401a8c0@Larry>

Aha!!

I wondered just the other day what ever happened to Rocky (I was listening 
to a JJ Cale/Eric Clapton CD).  Now I know.  I should have known when he 
referred to the Victor yesterday.

Hello, Rocky.



Larry Daniels

79 MGB LE
60 Bugeye
67 Austin A60 Pickup (Ute)

"You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it
doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it
shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape."





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Roxter" <rocknatural at gmail.com>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:30 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears


The long-nosed pliers from Sears worked a charm! They are actually quite
small.

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/pliars.jpg

Craftsman PN = # _9_ 45661

The inner parts of the MC are really bad. Have ordered a new one.

DPO obviously tried to recondition the unit, terrible vice-grip marks all 
over the shaft & gouges on inner cylinder walls. Useless.

Thanks for the advice and assistance. You guys are the best!

-The Roxter
--
_______________________________________________
ladaniels at sbcglobal.net

Edit your replies

Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From hardt at sonic.net  Thu Aug 23 17:01:29 2007
From: hardt at sonic.net (Ron Engelhardt)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 16:01:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <40b437200708231418y310b6cefr810db0fbb19d56f6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
	<006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
	<008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<40b437200708231418y310b6cefr810db0fbb19d56f6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46CE11C9.30507@sonic.net>

Simon Matthews wrote:
> Will not happen any time soon. DId you know that you can buy
> motorcycles with larger engines than my MGA (or a Prius).  Also, it is
> somewhat impractical: we do have significant hills in California.  I
> am amazed that the Prius can make it up some of these hills.


Sometimes I'm amazed that my MGA makes it up some of the hills ;-)

Ron
58 MGA

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 17:10:38 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 18:10:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears
In-Reply-To: <066d01c7e5d6$50c3cdc0$6401a8c0@Larry>
References: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com> <066d01c7e5d6$50c3cdc0$6401a8c0@Larry>
Message-ID: <46CE13EE.7010008@gmail.com>

Larry Daniels wrote:
> Aha!!
>
> I wondered just the other day what ever happened to Rocky (I was listening 
> to a JJ Cale/Eric Clapton CD).  Now I know.  I should have known when he 
> referred to the Victor yesterday.
>
> Hello, Rocky.
Hey Larry!

Bet you'll really like "To Tulsa and Back: JJ Cale on Tour" DVD from Time/Life. Lots of interviews and concert footage. Lots of Eric Clapton. Lots of me.  :)

-The Roxter
--

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 23 18:12:37 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:12:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] My 2 cents.....
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9344C5@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <235544.94525.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

"Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote: I just wanted to say "thank you" for all the positive comments.


Dan's comment was taken as intended; the flashback was a good reminder of how important it is to read posts carefully and give posters the benefit of any doubt.

I did drive my MGB to work today. It's the one sitting out front on the pretty grass apron that Moss put in just for employees who drive British cars. Unfortunately it's often empty as we also have issues keeping our cars on the road and dodging commuting traffic.

-----------------------
I figured you'd pick up on my humor, Kelvin..... ;-)

BTW, why a grass apron?? Doesn't all of the leakage just kill the grass?? ;-)

 


      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 23 18:13:10 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:13:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears
References: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com>
	<066d01c7e5d6$50c3cdc0$6401a8c0@Larry> <46CE13EE.7010008@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <067e01c7e5e3$8ec28c80$6401a8c0@Larry>

I'll look for it.  Thanks for the heads up, Rock.

My better half was just commenting that we have a lot of JJ Cale on vinyl 
(we've been around a couple of years), but not much on CD.


Larry


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Roxter" <rocknatural at gmail.com>
To: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Pliers from Sears


Larry Daniels wrote:
> Aha!!
>
> I wondered just the other day what ever happened to Rocky (I was listening
> to a JJ Cale/Eric Clapton CD).  Now I know.  I should have known when he
> referred to the Victor yesterday.
>
> Hello, Rocky.
Hey Larry!

Bet you'll really like "To Tulsa and Back: JJ Cale on Tour" DVD from 
Time/Life. Lots of interviews and concert footage. Lots of Eric Clapton. 
Lots of me.  :)

-The Roxter
--

From jkk at adams.net  Thu Aug 23 19:40:58 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:40:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Guard Conundrum
Message-ID: <009f01c7e5ef$d2437850$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Oh ye wise ones-

I've got a problem I hope somebody can shed a little light on for me. I have a
74 B with the Sabrina stumps that I want to convert over to the earlier style
bumper guards (with the rubber buffers on them). I want to use bumper guards
on the rear without the license plate lamps on them so I can use the original
lamps in their original position on the plate holder so I could change back if
I ever wanted to.

Okay, so I now have six bumper guards but don't have a matching set of four. I
have three guards that measure 1 5/8" from the lower edge to the buffer, same
at the top. I have three guards that measure 2 1/2" from the lower edge to the
buffer and 2" from the top edge to the buffer, two have the license lamp
holes. If I buy a new guard, which one am I going to get? Or does anyone have
a "small" guard they aren't using? Maybe trade for the "big" ones? I'm
planning on having the bumpers and guards rechromed, so the condition of the
chrome isn't a big concern, but I'd sure like to have a matching set of four.

Jim

From dannyvarnado at cox.net  Thu Aug 23 20:09:37 2007
From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:09:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>

I'm having a bit of a problem with an MGB clutch master and/or slave cylinder.
Each morning when I drive to work in my MGA, I have a good clutch pedal with
engagement at about 1/2 of travel.  On some days by the time I get to work (16
miles) I must pump the clutch to make it engage.  On other days it operates
properly.   The same applies in the afternoon on my way home with the
exception that on some days I must pump it at the beginning of the drive. This
problem is very inconsistent.  During the times that I must pump the clutch,
if I do not, it will either not go into gear or the clutch will start to bleed
down and engage while I hold the pedal down.  I rebuilt both cylinders about
three years and 15000 trouble free miles ago.  I have no fluid leaks and the
reservoir is full.  The only thing that I have done to the system was to
replace the fluid in the reservoir a couple of months ago.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Danny V.
'58 MGA daily driver
'76 MGB V-6 project

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 23 20:16:27 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:16:27 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <c95.1873683c.33ff997b@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/23/2007 3:35:28 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
WJHS1960 at comcast.net writes:

Ha!!  I've been PASSED while doing 80mph by a "Big Rig",  Hans!!  About a 70
foot-long  one!!
_______________________________________________



longer than that I'd wager....53' trailers are pretty much standard now,  
with some 57' used in some states for light loads like empty Miller cans.   240 
inch wheelbases are pretty common too.
 
RH



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From Emjaxfl at aol.com  Thu Aug 23 20:19:51 2007
From: Emjaxfl at aol.com (Emjaxfl at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:19:51 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Guard Conundrum
Message-ID: <c7a.1865261f.33ff9a47@aol.com>

Greetings to All,
 
I recall reading that one would need to use the front bumper guards on the  
rear bumper to do this conversion. Also, the rear bumper bar on a '74 is unique 
 and one might need to change over to the '71 to '73 bumper bar and  brackets 
to have the guards fit properly. 
 
I have the '71 to '73 style front guards on my '74, along with a light and  
badge bar, with lights and badges. My rear bumper has no guards.
 
Eric in Florida
1974 MGB 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 23 20:30:12 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 21:30:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
References: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <018501c7e5f6$b2e44b90$6501a8c0@actualshop>

With WHAT, Danny??  Entore system bleed??

Ed

From temporarilyoffline at gmail.com  Thu Aug 23 20:33:40 2007
From: temporarilyoffline at gmail.com (Steve)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:33:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
References: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <76664a460708231933t3062049bn781de695108159de@mail.gmail.com>

As far as I know you're talking about air in the lines.

Count your clutch throws or time between issues and see if there is a
pattern for grins

- steve


On 8/23/07, dannyvarnado <dannyvarnado at cox.net> wrote:
> I'm having a bit of a problem with an MGB clutch master and/or slave
> cylinder.
> Each morning when I drive to work in my MGA, I have a good clutch pedal with
> engagement at about 1/2 of travel.  On some days by the time I get to work
> (16
> miles) I must pump the clutch to make it engage.  On other days it operates
> properly.   The same applies in the afternoon on my way home with the
> exception that on some days I must pump it at the beginning of the drive.
> This
> problem is very inconsistent.  During the times that I must pump the clutch,
> if I do not, it will either not go into gear or the clutch will start to
> bleed
> down and engage while I hold the pedal down.  I rebuilt both cylinders about
> three years and 15000 trouble free miles ago.  I have no fluid leaks and the
> reservoir is full.  The only thing that I have done to the system was to
> replace the fluid in the reservoir a couple of months ago.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Danny V.
> '58 MGA daily driver
> '76 MGB V-6 project
> _______________________________________________
> temporarilyoffline at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 23 20:34:49 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:34:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <C2F391D9.12AD7%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

Well, it doesn't matter what you did 15K miles ago -- the symptoms say one
of the cylinders is going bad. Try bleeding the slave -- if it pumps out
fluid with the valve open it would tend to indicate that at least the master
is OK. So you can start with replacing the slave and the flex hose. But it's
just as likely that they are both bad -- IME the hydraulics tend to fail as
a system, for whatever reason.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/23/07 7:09 PM, dannyvarnado at dannyvarnado at cox.net wrote:

> I'm having a bit of a problem with an MGB clutch master and/or slave cylinder.
> Each morning when I drive to work in my MGA, I have a good clutch pedal with
> engagement at about 1/2 of travel.  On some days by the time I get to work (16
> miles) I must pump the clutch to make it engage.  On other days it operates
> properly.   The same applies in the afternoon on my way home with the
> exception that on some days I must pump it at the beginning of the drive. This
> problem is very inconsistent.  During the times that I must pump the clutch,
> if I do not, it will either not go into gear or the clutch will start to bleed
> down and engage while I hold the pedal down.  I rebuilt both cylinders about
> three years and 15000 trouble free miles ago.  I have no fluid leaks and the
> reservoir is full.  The only thing that I have done to the system was to
> replace the fluid in the reservoir a couple of months ago.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Danny V.
> '58 MGA daily driver
> '76 MGB V-6 project

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 23 21:09:39 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:09:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <46CE0B3A.3050007@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <122896.41745.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- The Roxter <rocknatural at gmail.com> wrote:

> I was once told by a friend who was an MG factory mechanic that the
> two six-volts were used because the MGA was slightly light in the
> rear end and the added weight fixed that.
> 
> Might be apocryphal rather than gospel, but he certainly believed
> it.

There's alot to be said for having a slight rear weight bias in
a rear wheel drive car, even if it comes from the "silly" (as
characterized by a previous poster) philosophy of adhering to
the practices of the engineers who actually designed the vehicle.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato? 
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz 

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Fri Aug 24 01:58:59 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:58:59 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6BC@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

The random nature sounds to me VERY much like the master cylinder need
rebuilding/replacing.  Less likely to be the slave cylinder, if that had
an intermittent seal you'd be losing fluid, and you say the reservoir is
full (I assume that means you haven't had to top it up?).

I just went through my clutch system - had to replace the slave because
the bleed nipple snapped off rather than turning :-(.  With the new
slave it just wouldn't bleed successfully.  I blamed the master and
replaced it - still wouldn't bleed right.  Until I turned my brain on
and noticed that the bleed nipple is at the bottom of the slave, so any
air in the slave cannot get out!!  Removed the two bolts holding the
slave on, tipped it so the bleed nipple was uppermost, bled a nice load
of air out, re-fit slave, all is fine now!!  Spent 50-odd quid replacing
a M/C that was probably perfectly OK :-(.

I guess most people out there already know this, but I thought I'd
mention it in case anyone didn't!


Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, came to work with me today now the
clutch is working)
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From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 24 02:12:12 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:12:12 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008801c7e627$3cc58880$0200a8c0@Three>

The PO had put an oversized 12v battery in my twin-6v roadster that was 
bigger than the hole!  I was beginning to think that they must have welded 
the cage around the battery (it had been extended) when I realised the 
battery was the sealed type and could be tipped over on end inside the 
cradle, which them meant it could be lifted out.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> A PO installed a group 24 battery in my MGA. This was done by
> extending one of the battery trays. 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 24 02:32:10 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:32:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com><40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com><006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c><40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
	<008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <00ba01c7e629$56cb2530$0200a8c0@Three>

Is that what the Pope drives? :o)

----- Original Message ----- 
>... I would NOT dare to drive a Pius with such speed.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 24 02:21:17 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:21:17 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Advice wanted on MGB Brake Master Cylinder
References: <46CCA1C5.9030502@gmail.com><42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934385@kb1.mossmotors.com><4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AE0@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>
	<001f01c7e5c1$76940750$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <00b801c7e629$568ac0d0$0200a8c0@Three>

Lyndsay Porter

----- Original Message ----- 
> The Sydney Porter book How to Restore and ... MGB describes this process 
> quite well.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 24 02:28:08 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:28:08 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries/now starters
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C93451E@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <00b901c7e629$56ac2b80$0200a8c0@Three>

I had one of these for a while on my V8.  The first time I cranked it there 
was just a whirr and I thought it was spinning without turning the engine, 
then it burst into life, it was so quiet.  It cranks faster, and takes less 
current while doing so, both of which aid starting (although that shouldn't 
be an issue on a properly set-up engine).  The only down-side is the cost - 
about 50% more when I looked.  They can be beneficial on V8s as the standard 
starter suffers more from heat damage from the close proximity of the 
right-hand down-pipe, even with a heat-shield fitted.  It remains to be seen 
(by those that still have them) whether the geared starter is any more 
resistant to it.  How much of the shorter life of the V8 starter is due to 
the heat, and how much to cranking twice the number of cylinders I don't 
know, although in the latter case they are lower compression ratio on 
factory cars.  If it was the number of cylinders that were the problem the 
higher compression ratio of other applications of this engine should result 
in even shorter life.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> For some applications such as the Rover V8 they are a definite godsend.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 24 02:37:05 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:37:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
References: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <00f901c7e62b$7102f570$0200a8c0@Three>

Pump to *dis*engage, I presume you mean.  If by holding the pedal down you 
find the clutch starts to engage by itself, and there are no leaks, then the 
master piston seal is leaking back, pure and simple.  Rebuilding is not 
always the most cost-effective way to go.  Mind you, Hunt's Fifth Law states 
new parts can be faulty when you receive them, and probably won't last as 
long as the originals.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  During the times that I must pump the clutch,
> if I do not, it will either not go into gear or the clutch will start to 
> bleed
> down and engage while I hold the pedal down. 

From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Fri Aug 24 06:54:23 2007
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:54:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries (my 2 cents)
In-Reply-To: <004401c7e5c3$8a158cc0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
References: <580839.41797.qm@web42105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<004401c7e5c3$8a158cc0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <a06230901c2f4835c3445@[66.153.11.32]>

Have been following this for a few days .  Why keep the 6v batteries 
, I guess that is up to you,  the consensus , and myself, is to go 
the single 12v, but if you what to keep the two, Interstate has a 6v 
that does fit, infact it is to small but with twice the crank power 
of the orig ones. It is an industrial battery. We use them in a 18v 
configuration  (3 of them) .  Last time we purchased the they were 
$68.00 each direct from Interstate.

paul

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Aug 24 06:37:27 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:37:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <20070824.090030.2960.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Bill,
  If you are looking for something new in batteries, check out the
article in The Economist, August 18th cover date. It cites a work by one
Pulickel Ajayan at Renssselaier Polytechnical, who is working up a
"paper" battery of nanotubes and cellulose.  Proceedings of the National
Academy of Sciences reported the story.  Imagine the weight savings!
Bob
 
On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 15:50:58 EDT WSpohn4 at aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 8/23/2007 9:58:13 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
> doddk at mossmotors.com writes:
> 
> I get a  bit confused with the concept of installing huge output
> batteries like the  Optima in a car with a 35 amp alternator. I use
> Optima batteries to start  my diesel backhoe and a couple in my 
> diesel
> truck. I guess if you want to  be able to drive round the block on 
> the
> starter motor they make sense.  Somewhat cheaper than buying a 
> Prius.   
> ____________________________________
>  
> I agree. Having heavy duty batteries in a street MG is overkill, 
> just  like 
> putting a high torque starter is overkill, unless the difference in 
> price  is 
> insignificant. The stock starter spins them just fine, and a regular 
> 12 volt  
> battery works just dandy.
>  
> Having 2 6 volt batteries 'because it is original' is, IMHO, silly. 
> More  
> connections to go wrong, more weight, more expense and for what?  No 
> real  world 
> advantage I can see - they don't even judge under the cars in 
> concours so  
> that isn't an excuse.
>  
> My battery kacked on me in the 62 coupe this year so I may look at 
> the  Miata 
> battery, thanks for the suggestion Kelvin.
>  
> bill

From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Fri Aug 24 08:21:26 2007
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:21:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
References: <mailman.11402.1187942214.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005701c7e65a$12acfb40$0202a8c0@ejrussell>

Are the tapped holes the same? Install the flex hose into the lower 
one and the bleed screw into the upper one.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell

----- Original Message ----- 

> I just went through my clutch system - had to replace the slave 
> because
> the bleed nipple snapped off rather than turning :-(.  With the new
> slave it just wouldn't bleed successfully.  I blamed the master and
> replaced it - still wouldn't bleed right.  Until I turned my brain 
> on
> and noticed that the bleed nipple is at the bottom of the slave, so 
> any
> air in the slave cannot get out!!  Removed the two bolts holding the
> slave on, tipped it so the bleed nipple was uppermost, bled a nice 
> load
> of air out, re-fit slave, all is fine now!!  Spent 50-odd quid 
> replacing
> a M/C that was probably perfectly OK :-(.
>
> I guess most people out there already know this, but I thought I'd
> mention it in case anyone didn't!
>
> Richard & Sammy

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Fri Aug 24 07:31:25 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:31:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6C0@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

There may be different clutch slave models out there, but on the one I
got both holes are near the bottom, neither would allow you to bleed all
the air out.  I think the one that came off was the same, but I've
chucked it out so I can't check it.


Richard & Sammy
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7770 19)
PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 24 07:55:20 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 06:55:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Guard Conundrum
In-Reply-To: <009f01c7e5ef$d2437850$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <571574.50716.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Not a 'wise one' James but I am making changes too
(perhaps that is proof?!).  On my '70 B tourer I hope
to replace the front bumper and probably omit the
over-riders.  I'll buy a new bumper blade for that
upgrade.  I'd like to do the same for the rear but I
can't find the split bumper new and will probably have
to have the old ones rechromed.  They do not appear to
be bent, unlike the front.  I will not change to a
single bumper blad.  The split bumper is why I bought
the car.  Looks awesome.

rick

--- James Kleemeyer <jkk at adams.net> wrote:

> Oh ye wise ones-
> 
> I've got a problem I hope somebody can shed a little
> light on for me. I have a
> 74 B with the Sabrina stumps that I want to convert
> over to the earlier style
> bumper guards (with the rubber buffers on them). I
> want to use bumper guards
> on the rear without the license plate lamps on them
> so I can use the original
> lamps in their original position on the plate holder
> so I could change back if
> I ever wanted to.
> 
> Okay, so I now have six bumper guards but don't have
> a matching set of four. I
> have three guards that measure 1 5/8" from the lower
> edge to the buffer, same
> at the top. I have three guards that measure 2 1/2"
> from the lower edge to the
> buffer and 2" from the top edge to the buffer, two
> have the license lamp
> holes. If I buy a new guard, which one am I going to
> get? Or does anyone have
> a "small" guard they aren't using? Maybe trade for
> the "big" ones? I'm
> planning on having the bumpers and guards rechromed,
> so the condition of the
> chrome isn't a big concern, but I'd sure like to
> have a matching set of four.
> 
> Jim

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 24 08:55:19 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Duvall Mike)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:55:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] clutch cylinder
Message-ID: <82776EA8-ADA5-4E0B-8199-70D8616129CE@sbcglobal.net>

Danny,

Double check the bolt at the fulcrum of your pedal.  My MGA clutch  
worked fine for years and had short pedal engagement until one day I  
started experiencing problems like you describe.  When first driving  
it worked fine, then I would have to double pump. It was driving me  
crazy,  no leaks and if air was the problem, it would show the  
symptoms in the opposite order.  Then I had to start triple pumping  
after I drove awhile and I would push the entire piston out of the  
slave cylinder.  Crazy huh? As a side comment, always thought it was  
interesting my A clutch throw wasn't the same feel as the B clutch.

Then one day I discovered the nut had come off the bolt and it was  
hanging on by the threads and the whole pedal was about to fall off.   
This was causing the short throw and erratic behavior.

When I fixed that, the clutch didn't have as short of throw and felt  
like my B clutch,  but a full length pump would put the piston right  
out of the slave cylinder.  I kept asking myself why would changing  
the pedal throw make a difference.  After studying the exploded  
diagrams awhile, I noted that the brake master cylinder had a one way  
valve in it the prevents the fluid from going back into the cylinder  
and the clutch did not have the valve.  I had trouble properly  
adjusting my brakes ever since having the master cylinder sleeved.    
I pulled master cylinder apart ( you don't need to remove it)  and  
sure enough, that one way valve was in the clutch side.  Now my  
clutch works fine and my brakes adjust without being pumped.

You also should check your brake system to ensure it is clean.  When  
I bought my B it had a totally new brake system and master cylinder.   
The clutch slave hadn't been replaced.  I started having trouble with  
the clutch not disengaging and after a long drawn out process of  
trouble shooting,  It would work ok then not and gradually got worse.

I discovered that the clutch side of the master cylinder had a tiny  
nick in the rubber cup.  Grasping at straws,  I started checking all  
the fittings and discovered the tiny piece of rubber sitting on to  
off the connector junction between the metal pipe and the connector.   
The piece was too big to go on down through the hose and into the  
cylinder and was blocking the flow into the master cylinder.   
Undoubtedly, it had been floating in the junction causing the  
occasional problem until it finally jammed in place.

Good luck!

Mike

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 24 09:02:36 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 16:02:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
References: <mailman.11402.1187942214.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<005701c7e65a$12acfb40$0202a8c0@ejrussell>
Message-ID: <007901c7e661$c04286b0$0200a8c0@Three>

The usual comment is that the tapped holes *are* the same, but for the MGB 
application the bleed nipple comes in the wrong, lower hole.  This may be 
for packaging reasons, or more likely it is the same as for an earlier 
application where the nipple needs to be in the other hole.  Clutch bleeding 
is a pain anyway, by far the easiest way is to connect the clutch nipple to 
the right-hand caliper nipple (they are the same size), open both and use 
the brake pedal gently to reverse fill or bleed the clutch.  I've done this 
twice now, it only takes seconds, and gives the correct 1/2" to 5/8" of 
clutch travel straight away.  With the smaller metal brake masters you do 
have to be careful not to run the level too low or you will have to bleed 
the brakes as well!  With the clear plastic ones it is easy to see and 
doesn't take much out anyway.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Are the tapped holes the same? Install the flex hose into the lower
> one and the bleed screw into the upper one.

From r.gosling at penspen.com  Fri Aug 24 09:26:58 2007
From: r.gosling at penspen.com (Gosling, Richard)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 16:26:58 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <76458B73D88AF649B30C48899A95ACB09EF6C3@sv-lon-exch1.Penspen.com>

Paul,

I just went out to my car and checked (to make sure I wasn't going mad)
- both holes are at the bottom, so swapping hoses wouldn't help.
Reverse filling wouldn't help either, the air in the slave cylinder
would still have no way to get out.  Maybe my new slave is different to
the ones that other people have been buying?


Richard & Sammy
  ________________________________________________________________________
This message (including any attachments) is confidential and may be
privileged. If you have received it by mistake please notify the sender by
return E-mail and delete this message from your system. Any unauthorised use
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Please note that E-mails are susceptible to change.
The Penspen Group shall not be liable for the improper or incomplete
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guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained or that
this communication is free of viruses, interceptions or interference.
The following UK companies within the Penspen Group and any electronic
communication sent on behalf of any of them, are subject to the provisions of
the UK Companies Act 1985;
PENSPEN HOLDINGS LIMITED (Company Number : 980600) Registered Office: 3 Water
Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239
7770 19)
PENSPEN LIMITED (Company Number: 584446) Registered Office: 3 Water Lane,
Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No; 239 7770
19)
(Unipen, Penspen Integrity and Andrew Palmer & Associates are operating
divisions of Penspen Limited and Spencer & Partners and Pencol are trade names
of Penspen Limited)
MANCHESTER JETLINE LIMITED (Company Number: 2392093) Registered Office: 3
Water Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 1TJ Registered in England and Wales (VAT No;
537 8635 08)

From RampantNM at aol.com  Fri Aug 24 10:46:30 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 12:46:30 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <bc5.1a1e372a.34006566@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/23/2007 8:30:39 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
WJHS1960 at comcast.net writes:

With  WHAT, Danny??  Entore system  bleed??

Ed
_______________________________________________




Sounds terrible, a person could die of a bleeding entore.....

Regards,

Robert B. Houston
63 TR4
74.5 MGBGT
73 MG  Midget

b&Reminds me of my safari in Africa, somebody forgot the corkscrew  and for
several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. W. C  Fields




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri Aug 24 11:54:35 2007
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 12:54:35 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
References: <007201c7e5f3$d69dfc00$0202a8c0@dannytyferm096>
Message-ID: <20070824175502.4D02D1879FD@autox.team.net>

At 07:09 PM 8/23/2007 -0700, danny varnado wrote:
>.... the clutch will start to bleed down and engage while I hold the 
>pedal down.  ....

Regardless of anything else, this indicates that fluid is leaking in 
the master cylinder internally past the piston seals back into the 
reservoir.  You will need to rebuild or replace the master cylinder.

To everyone who thinks the bleed nipple on the bottom of the slave 
cylinder is a problem, it isn't.  When a new slave cylinder is 
shipped the bleed nipple may be installed in the end port to make the 
package smaller.  In this case you need to move the bleed nipple to 
the side port, as the end port is for the hose connection.  You do 
not have to dismount the slave cylinder to bleed out the air, but the 
bleed nipple does have to be on the side, not on the end.

When installed the bleed nipple will appear to be on the side of the 
slave cylinder pointing downward at about 30 degree angle from 
horizontal.  This is NOT a problem.  Internally the drill hole for 
the port is tangent to the cylinder bore and intersects the internal 
cavity near the top.  This does allow for bleeding out the air before 
the fluid, so it does not trap air in the slave cylinder.  See 
cylinder internal picture here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/hydraulics/ht106.htm

If you dismount the slave cylinder and position it horizontally with 
the bleed nipple pointing straight up, the internal poat will be 
nearly half way down the side of the cylinder wall, and that could 
trap air in the cylinder.  If you hang the cylinder vertical with the 
hose on top, then the bleed port will be at (or near) the top 
regardless of rotation of the cylinder.

Reverse bleeding from bottom up does seem to work.  Pressure bleeding 
from top down also works well.  The trick is to move fluid through 
the line fast enough to carry any air along with it out the bleed 
port.  If you do short bleed strokes with long pauses in between the 
air can bubble back up the line and may never be expelled.

For bleeding with no special tools, open the bleed nipple and place a 
finger over the end to serve as a check valve.  Have a helper do 
several strokes of the pedal in quick succession, then hold the pedal 
down while you close the bleed nipple.  You can minimize the spray 
mess by putting a small hose on the nipple, putting your finger over 
the end of the hose, and holsing it in a catch vessle during the process.

From wellner.christian at navy.mil  Fri Aug 24 11:59:24 2007
From: wellner.christian at navy.mil (Christian, Skip)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 13:59:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries (Skip)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11504.1187967347.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11504.1187967347.12556.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82F3BA24EC82EF49825F4D277341CE567E3563@naeapaxrez05.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>

All,

	If 6 volt batteries are so expensive, why not install two small
12 volt batteries and wire them in parallel ?  I do not know if the
alternator will be able to keep both charged automatically without some
extra circuitry.  Oh well, just a thought.

Skip
'74 B

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 24 12:24:32 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:24:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries (my 2 cents)
In-Reply-To: <a06230901c2f4835c3445@[66.153.11.32]>
Message-ID: <691440.57736.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Paul Osborne <paul at ece.rochester.edu> wrote:

> Have been following this for a few days .  Why keep the 6v
> batteries 
> , I guess that is up to you,  the consensus , and myself, is to go 
> the single 12v...

I'd say it's a little bit of a stretch to say that the dozen
or so folks here who've advocated single 12 volt batteries 
constitute a "consensus."  There are, after all, many 
thousands of 12 volt MGs on the road, and my experience is
that folks here who are quite proud of themselves for
modifying their cars are much more likely to speak out on
such issues than those of us embrace authenticity.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ 

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 24 12:28:47 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:28:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <82F3BA24EC82EF49825F4D277341CE567E3563@naeapaxrez05.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Message-ID: <413890.89624.qm@web42109.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

BTW, many car companies are considering upping their
internal wiring to 48 volts, so the day may soon come
when all 6 and 12 volt batteries are built for collector
cars, and the modifiers will advocate putting a 48V
battery in one side and a stepdown transformer in
the other!   :-)



David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting 

From dcouncill at msubillings.edu  Fri Aug 24 15:40:31 2007
From: dcouncill at msubillings.edu (Councill, David)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 15:40:31 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries (my 2 cents)
In-Reply-To: <691440.57736.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <a06230901c2f4835c3445@[66.153.11.32]>
	<691440.57736.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4801E63444304342BA12869D78DB025FC12AF1@EXVS01.msubillings.edu>

I don't know about "consensus" but they are likely the majority. For the
past several years, I thought I was one of the only advocates left on
this list for the 6 volt batteries. It was a sad day last fall when I
became one with the masses and went with the 12 volt battery. But on the
side of maintaining the proper time-space continuum, my 67 BGT still
remains positive ground!

David Councill
67 BGT
72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of David Breneman
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 12:25 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries (my 2 cents)

--- Paul Osborne <paul at ece.rochester.edu> wrote:

> Have been following this for a few days .  Why keep the 6v
> batteries
> , I guess that is up to you,  the consensus , and myself, is to go
> the single 12v...

I'd say it's a little bit of a stretch to say that the dozen
or so folks here who've advocated single 12 volt batteries
constitute a "consensus."  There are, after all, many
thousands of 12 volt MGs on the road, and my experience is
that folks here who are quite proud of themselves for
modifying their cars are much more likely to speak out on
such issues than those of us embrace authenticity.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com

From jkk at adams.net  Fri Aug 24 17:04:45 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 18:04:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Guard Conundrum
References: <571574.50716.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004a01c7e6a3$29b5b360$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Yes, I really like the split bumpers on the 70B, too. As a matter of fact, I 
still have a set from the $5 car and have seriously thought about using them 
on my 74B. They need to be rechromed, too, but so does my original. 
Hmmm....decisions, decisions.

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>


 I will not change to a
> single bumper blad.  The split bumper is why I bought
> the car.  Looks awesome.
>
> rick

From matt.lists at trebelhorn.com  Fri Aug 24 17:16:19 2007
From: matt.lists at trebelhorn.com (Matt Trebelhorn)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 19:16:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Guard Conundrum
In-Reply-To: <004a01c7e6a3$29b5b360$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
References: <571574.50716.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<004a01c7e6a3$29b5b360$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
Message-ID: <D072E97D-742F-402D-A339-745E1D44CB16@trebelhorn.com>

I have the setup Rick is thinking of -- split rear bumper on the '70,  
new front, no overriders front or rear.

It's a clean look:
http://www.mgexperience.net/motorsport/historic-cars/images/8DBL-01.jpg

I didn't re-chrome the rear blades, though they need it -- I think of  
it as patina.

But yeah, the '70 rear bumper is the way to go -- gets you a much  
cleaner license plate/light configuration, too.

Matt

On Aug 24, 2007, at 7:04 PM, James Kleemeyer wrote:

> Yes, I really like the split bumpers on the 70B, too. As a matter  
> of fact, I
> still have a set from the $5 car and have seriously thought about  
> using them
> on my 74B. They need to be rechromed, too, but so does my original.
> Hmmm....decisions, decisions.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
>
>
>  I will not change to a
>> single bumper blad.  The split bumper is why I bought
>> the car.  Looks awesome.
>>
>> rick

From jkk at adams.net  Fri Aug 24 18:08:58 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 19:08:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Guard Conundrum
References: <571574.50716.qm@web82314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<004a01c7e6a3$29b5b360$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>
	<D072E97D-742F-402D-A339-745E1D44CB16@trebelhorn.com>
Message-ID: <005c01c7e6ac$22198650$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Ah, another possibility I hadn't considered ('till now). That IS a clean 
look. jeeze.......now, what to do?

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matt Trebelhorn" <matt.lists at trebelhorn.com>


>I have the setup Rick is thinking of -- split rear bumper on the '70,  new 
>front, no overriders front or rear.
>
> It's a clean look:

From Emjaxfl at aol.com  Fri Aug 24 20:01:47 2007
From: Emjaxfl at aol.com (Emjaxfl at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 22:01:47 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Conversion
Message-ID: <bf7.1c85f0f6.3400e78b@aol.com>

Greetings to All,
 
I recall reading that one would need to use the front bumper guards on the  
rear bumper to do this conversion. Also, the rear bumper bar on a '74 is unique 
 and one might need to change over to the '71 to '73 bumper bar and  brackets 
to have the guards fit properly. 
 
I have the '71 to '73 style front guards on my '74, along with a light and  
badge bar, with lights and badges. My rear bumper has no guards.
 
Eric in Florida
1974 MGB 





************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From jkk at adams.net  Fri Aug 24 20:30:25 2007
From: jkk at adams.net (James Kleemeyer)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 21:30:25 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Conversion
References: <bf7.1c85f0f6.3400e78b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002001c7e6bf$e4d477a0$6401a8c0@DD1H1CB1>

Just from holding up the guards to the bumpers I have ('68, '70, '74) the 
cross section of the bumpers looks pretty close to the same to me, at least 
close enough that the filler strips would take up any difference. Of course, 
I'm assuming the rear bumper on the '74 is original since it still has the 
Sabrina guards and the unique one piece bracket. 'Course, I've been wrong 
before!

BTW, why are there two different rubber buffer  guards? Is there a 
difference in years, or what?

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Emjaxfl at aol.com>


> Greetings to All,
>
> I recall reading that one would need to use the front bumper guards on the
> rear bumper to do this conversion. Also, the rear bumper bar on a '74 is 
> unique
> and one might need to change over to the '71 to '73 bumper bar and 
> brackets
> to have the guards fit properly.
>
> I have the '71 to '73 style front guards on my '74, along with a light and
> badge bar, with lights and badges. My rear bumper has no guards.
>
> Eric in Florida
> 1974 MGB

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 24 21:32:09 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 22:32:09 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] strange tranny behaviour
References: <46C9A82D.2070107@wi.net>
Message-ID: <001501c7e6c8$8628ffb0$8215a8c0@Garage.local>

under hard cornering, at least right hand turns, 2nd gear seems to loose
grip.  i can rev the engine and the car just continues on irrespective.

now, admittedly, i haven't tested this in any other gears or even left
handers because my "track" is an interstate intersection clover leaf which i 
can run continuosly.

the car is a 73 b roadster.

the tranny is from a 71 parts car with first and second being a little
crunchy.  have no idea of the history.

other than that the car seems to run and drive fine.

it did get awfully low on oil recently, but then i topped it off.  enough so
that there was a good bit on the garage floor the next day.  i have not yet
checked the current level.

thoughts, recommendations, prayers anyone???

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Fri Aug 24 22:14:51 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 21:14:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] strange tranny behaviour
In-Reply-To: <001501c7e6c8$8628ffb0$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
References: <46C9A82D.2070107@wi.net>
	<001501c7e6c8$8628ffb0$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <40b437200708242114j422d9472x84356c17e0c865b7@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/24/07, Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> under hard cornering, at least right hand turns, 2nd gear seems to loose
> grip.  i can rev the engine and the car just continues on irrespective.

Your car is lifting a wheel?

Regards

From steve at coastaldatasystems.com  Sat Aug 25 09:31:20 2007
From: steve at coastaldatasystems.com (Stephen West-Fisher)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 11:31:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
References: <006801c7e5a3$ad377030$0200a8c0@Three>
	<42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934499@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<40b437200708231154o675dbb3bx98ac78367470eb04@mail.gmail.com>
	<006e01c7e5c5$88114660$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
	<40b437200708231346g5058d572ud5db69d27f818b5d@mail.gmail.com>
	<008e01c7e5ca$10c3f260$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <001801c7e72c$fcc0f5b0$f642e110$@com>

That really isn't correct. GMC has been building the Suburban since the '40s
I think. Just like the craze where everyone thinks they want a truck, SUVs
went from work vehicles to popularity, the only thing they added was the
"Sport". They were previously known as Utility Vehicles.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
Coastal Data Systems
727.599.4271
http://www.coastaldatasystems.com/


-----Original Message-----

Recently a TV special was broadcast overhere about how the SUV was born - 
caused by a Californian law with all kind of restrictions for normal cars, 
which were not applicable for trucks.

From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 25 10:24:50 2007
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 09:24:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <001801c7e72c$fcc0f5b0$f642e110$@com>
Message-ID: <121988.3979.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- Stephen West-Fisher <steve at coastaldatasystems.com> wrote:

> That really isn't correct. GMC has been building the Suburban since
> the '40s
> I think. Just like the craze where everyone thinks they want a
> truck, SUVs
> went from work vehicles to popularity, the only thing they added
> was the "Sport". They were previously known as Utility Vehicles.

The SUV basically replaced the full-size station wagon,
which because of fuel economy laws was pretty well
legislated out of existence (at least in a form that
most customers for such a car would want).  Add to that
the abiding attraction Americans have for "working"vehicles such as
jeeps and pickup trucks, and the fact
that truck are less regulated than cars, and there was
a confluence of factors that made a pickup truck with
a welded-on canopy and filled with luxury accoutrements
a very attractive vehicle to many people.  Now there are
a lot of SUVs that aren't pickup based, and many that are
really just testosterone-injected minivans.  The SUV
craze will, I think, peter out with the advent of
fairly permanent $3/gallon gas, increasing government
regulation of "trucks" as other cars, and the appearance
on the US market of prestige station wagons like those
made by BMW and Mercedes.  But California really had
nothing to do with it - it was the federal government
that created the SUV craze as one of the "unintended
consequences" that always come about when the government
butts into things that are none of its business.

ObDisclaimer:  My daily driver is a Chevy Trailblazer.
I bought it because I need to tow a boat trailer, and
deal with notoriously fickle Puget Sound weather on
what was at the time a 150 mile a day commute.  I
acutally preferred the smaller S10 small-pickup based
Blazer I had before it, but that was replaced in
Chevrolet's line with an aforementioned butch minivan.


David Breneman         david_breneman at yahoo.com


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow  

From don at napanet.net  Sat Aug 25 15:43:07 2007
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 14:43:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <122896.41745.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <46CE0B3A.3050007@gmail.com>
	<122896.41745.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20070825143530.0288aa48@pop.napanet.net>

Here's the solution:  Moss Motors can make a 12 volt battery that looks 
identical to the OEM 6 volt battery with Lucas labels on the outside.  For 
the purists, they could offer another "dummy" battery with case only and 
fake plastic cables to connect the two.  This would be in the same theme as 
old Lionel trains that had a motorized F3 diesel with a "dummy" F3 unit 
following it that was devoid of a motor.

Or- They could offer two fake plastic cases that look like the OEM 
batteries, designed so that one of them could have a Miata jell battery 
installed inside it.

Don Scott
1962 MGA
1973 MGB GT
1991 Miata BRG


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 08/23/2007 4:04 PM

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Sat Aug 25 16:25:05 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 17:25:05 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <46CE0B3A.3050007@gmail.com><122896.41745.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20070825143530.0288aa48@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <009a01c7e766$c9ac2110$6501a8c0@actualshop>

<<Here's the solution:  >>

Gonna be VERY interesting to see Kelvin's "comments", Don!!!!!

Actually, a good idea!!

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sat Aug 25 17:48:34 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 16:48:34 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Help with compressor?
Message-ID: <40b437200708251648o505c4172i8235a4880d289616@mail.gmail.com>

I have a Husky brand (Home Depot own-label) compressor.  This is a
5.5HP compressor on a 40 gallon tank.

Recently, I noticed that it loses pressure when not switched on -- in
fact I can hear a hissing sound. I tracked this down to a fitting in
the side of the pipe that comes out of the tank itself. It is a little
difficult to see because I have not been able to get the cover off the
pump.

The tank has a fitting attached to it -- out of the top of this
filling is a copper hose. At one side of the fitting, a plastic hose
is attached. Opposite this plastic hose is another fitting that looks
somewhat like a bolt, except that it has a small hole in the end, out
of which air is leaking.

Does anyone has any suggestions? I don/t understand the function of
this little bolt-like fitting, so I don't really want to take it out
until I know what I am doing (or has some semblance of knowing what I
am doing).

Regards,
Simon

From Emjaxfl at aol.com  Sat Aug 25 19:46:57 2007
From: Emjaxfl at aol.com (Emjaxfl at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 21:46:57 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Bumper Conversion
Message-ID: <c63.189e6bd0.34023591@aol.com>

After digging through my memory a little more, I remembered the reason for  
using front guards on the rear bumper was that (most of) the rear guards had 
the  plate lights built into them.
 
To some extent, perhaps minor, I might encourage owners of '74s to keep  
their cars with the original bumpers. It was a unique year and replacements may  
be hard to find. OTOH, they aren't the most attractive.
 
De Gustibus Non Est Disputandem
Regarding Taste There Is No Argument
 
 
Eric in Florida



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Sat Aug 25 19:47:22 2007
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 18:47:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Help with compressor?
In-Reply-To: <40b437200708251847x8ff1d7ci919dbf6c41ee5552@mail.gmail.com>
References: <40b437200708251648o505c4172i8235a4880d289616@mail.gmail.com>
	<op.txm6yec35gkudl@66-109-47-217.dialup.francomm.com>
	<40b437200708251847x8ff1d7ci919dbf6c41ee5552@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <40b437200708251847p3bd1c43ena56d73592d93429@mail.gmail.com>

Pictures can be found at:

http://matthews-family.org/img_1076.jpg
http://matthews-family.org/img_1075.jpg

The arrow in img_1076 points to the source of the "leak"

Regards,
Simon

On 8/25/07, Peter Chast <pchast at francomm.com> wrote:
>
> sounds like it may be a safety valve.
> could you post a picture someplace

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 26 16:10:41 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 17:10:41 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
References: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001501c7e82d$f3110620$8215a8c0@Garage.local>

Hi, all.

i just finished the tube shock conversion from Moss.  .

if you are fortunate enough to get the help of Kelvin, or, for that matter, 
are able to actually read and follow directions, its easy and works quite 
well.

i chose this route because it was over $100 cheaper than 
replacing/rebuilding the lever shocks and associated parts.

nfi

From awhitema at panix.com  Sun Aug 26 20:12:26 2007
From: awhitema at panix.com (Aaron Whiteman)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 19:12:26 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
In-Reply-To: <001501c7e82d$f3110620$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
References: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com>
	<001501c7e82d$f3110620$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <ACC20BE3-1431-4B15-9596-7A8A2BF589F1@panix.com>

On Aug 26, 2007, at 3:10 PM, Oliver wrote:

> i chose this route because it was over $100 cheaper than
> replacing/rebuilding the lever shocks and associated parts.

I beg to differ.

http://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm

Moss Front shock Conversion: $450-700 (depending on the kit)

2 replacement shocks from World Wide Auto Parts ("Better than New"):  
$150 + $120 core

Moss Rear shock Conversion: $250-400 (depending on kit)

2 replacement shocks from World Wide Auto Parts: $121 + $60 core

I see a difference of between $400 between the cost of WWAP's  
rebuilds and Moss' Kit, and I have no idea what sort of hardware you  
would need to find $500 worth.  Certainly I didn't need to buy a  
single extra part.

Personally, I am VERY happy with the quality of Peter's work, and the  
lifetime warranty is just additional peace of mind.


-- 
  A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.
  Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
  A: Top-posting.
  Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 26 20:17:48 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 19:17:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion clarification
In-Reply-To: <ACC20BE3-1431-4B15-9596-7A8A2BF589F1@panix.com>
Message-ID: <389692.71404.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

i replaced the rear shocks, not the front. 

From jmc987 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 26 20:40:05 2007
From: jmc987 at earthlink.net (joseph cianciotti)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 22:40:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Compressor question (no LBC content)
Message-ID: <2A61BBCF-B86C-4A66-9C06-63B566904211@earthlink.net>

Are those small Black & Decker compressors powerful enough to inflate  
a car tire? I have one for bike tires, pool floats and the like and  
was just wondering. Thanks,

Joseph
67 MGB roadster 

From bobmgtd at insightbb.com  Sun Aug 26 20:41:56 2007
From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 22:41:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC
References: <294117.19966.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001101c7e853$d5e0d640$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

ND9B here. I've got 2 meters in the MGB, but our LBCs are probable the worse 
possible vehicles for radio communication. There's too much ignition noise, 
too much road noise to hear or be heard, and it's too hard to handle the mic 
with a manual tranny. Oh yes, there's also too little room for a rig.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 11:54 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC


> Please excuse the broadband noise but are there any
> hams here in MG land?
>
> rick / wd4kib
> _______________________________________________
> bobmgtd at insightbb.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From bobmgtd at insightbb.com  Sun Aug 26 20:53:40 2007
From: bobmgtd at insightbb.com (Bob Donahue)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 22:53:40 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again
References: <46C67A29.4090105@wi.net>
Message-ID: <002501c7e855$7902a870$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

This product sounds interesting.

BTW, STP is supposed to have ZDDP in it. Does it have enough to make up for 
what the EPA is taking out?

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Woerpel" <dwoerpel at wi.net>
To: "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>; "Spridgets" <Spridgets at autox.team.net>; 
<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 12:48 AM
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again


> Anyone know anything about this product?
>
> http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2957
>
>
> Dave
> 59 :{)
> 59 MGA 1500
> 05 MCS
> Burlington WI

From ladaniels at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 26 21:10:10 2007
From: ladaniels at sbcglobal.net (Larry Daniels)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 22:10:10 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] ZDDP again
References: <46C67A29.4090105@wi.net>
	<002501c7e855$7902a870$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
Message-ID: <09f601c7e857$c7b40110$6401a8c0@Larry>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd at insightbb.com>

This product sounds interesting.

BTW, STP is supposed to have ZDDP in it. Does it have enough to make up for
what the EPA is taking out?

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
====================================

Bob, I don't have any ppm numbers for you, but this is what STP told me:



I emailed STP from their website regarding the two oil additives and their
relative amount of ZDDP.  Here is their response:


Dear Mr. Daniels,

Thank you for contacting us about STP Oil Treatment. We always appreciate
hearing from our consumers.

The STP 4 Cylinder Oil Treatment contains only slightly more than the STP
Oil Treatment.  They both contain about 4 times the amount of ZDDP as what
motor oils once contained.  The product was originally designed for flat
tappet cam motors.  We have many classic car owners that use our product for
this reason.

Again, thank you for contacting us.


Sincerely,

Patti Copper

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 27 02:35:34 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 09:35:34 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] strange tranny behaviour
References: <46C9A82D.2070107@wi.net>
	<001501c7e6c8$8628ffb0$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <00b901c7e886$a97aaf80$0200a8c0@Three>

Where did you top it up to?  If the correct mark on the dipstick, and you 
then found a lot on the garage floor, then it has all leaked out again. 
Ordinarily this shouldn't make any difference to the drive in any gear (over 
the short term, in the longer term you will get excessive wear) unless you 
also use overdrive in 2nd gear.  This uses hydraulic pressure to keep the OD 
engaged and so with low oil level and hard cornering it could be slipping. 
This shouldn't happen with OD disengaged as the pressure then comes from the 
return springs.

Apart from the others posters suggestion of lifting a wheel, the only other 
thing I can think off is the clutch slipping, but why that should happen on 
a corner I can't at the moment think.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> under hard cornering, at least right hand turns, 2nd gear seems to loose
> grip.  i can rev the engine and the car just continues on irrespective.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 27 02:56:38 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 09:56:38 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <46CE0B3A.3050007@gmail.com><122896.41745.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20070825143530.0288aa48@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <00df01c7e888$c30e9ea0$0200a8c0@Three>

You don't really expect a *purist* to go for that, do you ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> Here's the solution:  Moss Motors can make a 12 volt battery that looks
> identical to the OEM 6 volt battery with Lucas labels on the outside.  For
> the purists, they could offer another "dummy" battery ... 

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 27 03:02:31 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 10:02:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
References: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com>
	<001501c7e82d$f3110620$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <00ec01c7e889$7d6ede90$0200a8c0@Three>

You do surprise me.  When I had a rear telescopic (fitted by the PO) fail I 
had to replace both as I couldn't get an exact match.  They cost me about 10 
times the price of a pair of rebuilt lever-arms, which only need replacing 
singly anyway.  Several years later the 'new' telescopics are getting softer 
and softer and of course the adjusters have seized.  The irony being that 
when new they had to be kept on their softest setting or they were way too 
hard.  Not wishing to wait until it fails the annual test I bought a pair of 
used lever-arms, drop-links and bottom plates at a spares show for about ten 
quid.  Even if I had to replace the lever-arms (although they felt fine) it 
would still be much cheaper than another pair of telescopics but in the 
event they are fine.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> i chose this route because it was over $100 cheaper than
> replacing/rebuilding the lever shocks and associated parts.

From ptegler at cablespeed.com  Mon Aug 27 03:59:08 2007
From: ptegler at cablespeed.com (ptegler at cablespeed.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:59:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
References: <46CE0A7F.3070102@gmail.com><001501c7e82d$f3110620$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
	<ACC20BE3-1431-4B15-9596-7A8A2BF589F1@panix.com>
Message-ID: <002001c7e890$ea4fc720$0201a8c0@dragonlair>

I had Peter (Nosimports) rebuild my shocks back in 99 and they are still 
leak free.
So that's now 8+ years of year round daily driver usage without a leak!

Paul Tegler
ptegler at cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema at panix.com>
To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion


> On Aug 26, 2007, at 3:10 PM, Oliver wrote:
>
>> i chose this route because it was over $100 cheaper than
>> replacing/rebuilding the lever shocks and associated parts.
>
> I beg to differ.
>
> http://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm
>
> Moss Front shock Conversion: $450-700 (depending on the kit)
>
> 2 replacement shocks from World Wide Auto Parts ("Better than New"):
> $150 + $120 core
>
> Moss Rear shock Conversion: $250-400 (depending on kit)

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 27 06:20:50 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:20:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC
In-Reply-To: <001101c7e853$d5e0d640$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
Message-ID: <431142.65156.qm@web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

That's why my 2 meter rig lives in a drawer at home -
and when not there, in the Mercedes glove box. :-P

Then again, why would I sit in the garage in my dead
MG and use my radio? :-P

rick

--- Bob Donahue <bobmgtd at insightbb.com> wrote:

> ND9B here. I've got 2 meters in the MGB, but our
> LBCs are probable the worse 
> possible vehicles for radio communication. There's
> too much ignition noise, 
> too much road noise to hear or be heard, and it's
> too hard to handle the mic 
> with a manual tranny. Oh yes, there's also too
> little room for a rig.
> 
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd at insightbb.com
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>                Olde Octagons of Indiana
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay at yahoo.com>
> To: "MGS" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 11:54 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC
> 
> 
> > Please excuse the broadband noise but are there
> any
> > hams here in MG land?
> >
> > rick / wd4kib
> > _______________________________________________
> > bobmgtd at insightbb.com
> >
> > Edit your replies
> >
> > Mgs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs 

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Aug 27 06:58:51 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 08:58:51 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <cc8.18cae425.3404248b@aol.com>

In a message dated 27/08/2007 2:01:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

You  don't really expect a *purist* to go for that, do you ...

-----  Original Message ----- 
> Here's the solution:  Moss Motors can  make a 12 volt battery that looks
> identical to the OEM 6 volt battery  with Lucas labels on the outside.  For
> the purists, they could  offer another "dummy" battery ... 



 
____________________________________

I can hardly wait for the new Moss replacement engine - an Ecotec  maybe, 
with a fibreglass shell that bolts to it to make it look like an MG motor  and a 
couple of dummy SUs......:-)
 
Bill

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Mon Aug 27 08:11:22 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 07:11:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <s6d27923.039@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

Sign me up for that one- at last . . . a reliable MG powerplant!  

Taking this to its logical conclusion, maybe an inflatable MGA body
that could just be slipped on top of a Miata would be another big
improvement. 

>>> <WSpohn4 at aol.com> 8/27/2007 5:58:51 AM >>>
In a message dated 27/08/2007 2:01:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

You  don't really expect a *purist* to go for that, do you ...

-----  Original Message ----- 
> Here's the solution:  Moss Motors can  make a 12 volt battery that
looks
> identical to the OEM 6 volt battery  with Lucas labels on the
outside.  For
> the purists, they could  offer another "dummy" battery ... 



 
____________________________________

I can hardly wait for the new Moss replacement engine - an Ecotec 
maybe, 
with a fibreglass shell that bolts to it to make it look like an MG
motor  and a 
couple of dummy SUs......:-)
 
Bill

From jello at ida.net  Mon Aug 27 08:13:46 2007
From: jello at ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 08:13:46 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <00df01c7e888$c30e9ea0$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <46CE0B3A.3050007@gmail.com><122896.41745.qm@web42107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<6.0.3.0.1.20070825143530.0288aa48@pop.napanet.net>
	<00df01c7e888$c30e9ea0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <1186.209.180.80.45.1188224026.squirrel@webmail.ida.net>

You could take those two, and actually hook them up in parallel - thus
giving not only the look of two 6 volt batteries, but a higher amperage
12V system.    For the "purists," this wouldn't really do, but if you're
going to fill the boxes it would be one of the better ways to do this.

Phil Bates
'67 MGB
'58 MGA

> You don't really expect a *purist* to go for that, do you ...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Here's the solution:  Moss Motors can make a 12 volt battery that looks
>> identical to the OEM 6 volt battery with Lucas labels on the outside.
>> For
>> the purists, they could offer another "dummy" battery ...
> _______________________________________________
> jello at ida.net
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 27 08:54:33 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 15:54:33 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <s6d27923.039@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <009701c7e8bb$714d7ae0$0200a8c0@Three>

You are speaking for your own there, not either of mine ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> Sign me up for that one- at last . . . a reliable MG powerplant!  

From strovato at optonline.net  Mon Aug 27 09:55:19 2007
From: strovato at optonline.net (Steven Trovato)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 11:55:19 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Amateur radio, NMGC
Message-ID: <0JNF009TKW9J9RJ0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>

I have a 2 meter rig in my Miata, but not in my MGA or 
Magnette.  There used to be one in the MGA when my Father-in-law 
owned it.  He is the "DPO".  He bought the MGA new and put this giant 
thing in that took up half the boot.  I must admit, I am much less 
into amateur radio now that there are cell phones.

-Steve Trovato, N2OAL

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Mon Aug 27 10:45:04 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 17:45:04 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] rear springs
References: <27545148.1187970367870.JavaMail.root@ps27>
Message-ID: <00ae01c7e8c9$a4995050$0200a8c0@Three>

Well, I don't know what to think now.  Over a period of years I have bought
three different types of rear spring (chrome bumper roadster, rubber bumper
roadster, RB V8) from three different suppliers and fitted them to two
different cars (CB roadster and RB V8).  In every case I have had no problem
jacking under the spring to compress it enough to reattach the damper
drop-link and/or replace the rebound straps, and this happens long before
the body lifts off the supports, which are immediately in front of the rear
spring front eyes.  Neither did I get this rumoured problem of the rear eyes
of the spring getting locked up against the chassis rail, which *would*
cause the problem, on neither the CB car (on which I reckon it is impossible
anyway) or the RB car.

Either all of you having problems getting the springs compressed enough have
bought faulty (i.e. too hard and/or arched) springs or you are doing
something wrong when fitting them.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

Ive got a bit of a shock  ive discovered that the rebound strap is
approx 2 inch short  and the shock absorber vertical link approx  1
inch short

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Aug 27 10:58:34 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 12:58:34 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] rear springs
Message-ID: <cdb.15f18fd2.34045cba@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/27/2007 9:45:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk writes:

Either  all of you having problems getting the springs compressed enough  have
bought faulty (i.e. too hard and/or arched) springs or you are  doing
something wrong when fitting them.



 
____________________________________

I'd agree on a stock install.
 
I use adjustable rear shackles to adjust ride height at the rear and  
sometimes have to really reef down on the rear eye to get it down enough to get  the 
bolt through - which can also entail having to then compress the spring a  bit 
more than usual to get the limit strap installed.
 
Hint - if it is close, use those Vice grips with the bicycle chain on them  
(useful for grabbing odd shaped mechanical bits) wrapped around the rear end 
and  a frame piece. By closing the Vice grip you can compress the spring a bit. 
Not  enough, wrap a strap around the assembly to hold it in place, then take 
another  grab with the Vice-grips.  Or get some buddies to sit in the  boot.....
 
I know that these limit straps are useful to prevent contact between the  
exhaust system and the rear end, and while fine on the street, they do have  
disadvantages if you are in competition.
 
Remember all the flak we throw at the Healeys and TRs for having their  frame 
go under the axle so that the rear end hits and lifts in very hard  
cornering? Well that's exactly what these straps emulate if you ever get the old  beast 
heeled over enough.  So you need to pay attention to rear roll  stiffness as 
part of the equation if you compete. For that reason, many of us do  not use 
these straps when we race.
 
Bill S.
 
Bill

From toms_mg at tombuchanan.net  Mon Aug 27 10:47:08 2007
From: toms_mg at tombuchanan.net (Tom Buchanan)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 12:47:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Eudora 6.1
Message-ID: <6.0.0.22.2.20070827124100.021b5418@mail.tombuchanan.net>

I use a copy of Eudora 6.1 just for the MG Mailing. Does anyone know if 
there is a way to use filters (or some other way) to exclude all messages 
that do not have the [MG] in the subject line?

Thanks
Tom


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.8 - Release Date: 8/25/2007

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug 27 11:21:14 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 10:21:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <s6d27923.039@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9347CB@kb1.mossmotors.com>

The British did it with tanks just before D Day!


Actually I looked into the possibility of offering the Ginetta kit as
the ultimate Miata bolt on accessory. One part number turns your Mazda
Miata into a real British Car.


http://www.motoamericainc.com/G20.htm



Kelvin.



> Taking this to its logical conclusion, maybe an inflatable MGA body
> that could just be slipped on top of a Miata would be another big
> improvement.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug 27 11:29:15 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 10:29:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <009a01c7e766$c9ac2110$6501a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9347D2@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I did think about it for a moment or two.





Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WJHS1960
> Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 3:25 PM
> To: Mgs at autox.team.net; don
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
>
> <<Here's the solution:  >>
>
> Gonna be VERY interesting to see Kelvin's "comments", Don!!!!!
>
> Actually, a good idea!!
> _______________________________________________
> doddk at mossmotors.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Mon Aug 27 11:49:47 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:49:47 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
Message-ID: <bbf.14ed0e38.340468bb@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/27/2007 10:21:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
doddk at mossmotors.com writes:

Actually  I looked into the possibility of offering the Ginetta kit as
the ultimate  Miata bolt on accessory. One part number turns your Mazda
Miata into a real  British Car.



 
____________________________________


VERY light - no doors or anything - as basic as you can get and still be a  
car, but with better aerodynamics and weather protection than the raft of  
Lo-cost style options out there. I like it!
 
I raced against a couple of Ginetta G4s and lightness counts for a  lot!  One 
had a 1500 and one had a Cosworth 1000 and both howled!
 
Now if we could take this kit and add some power - a nice turbo Ecotech  
engine perhaps - do you think 1300 lbs. and 260 BHP - hmm - 5 lbs. per  horsepower.
 
Gee, a new Corvette ZO6 with 505 BHP has....ah yes - 6.2 lb/BHP.....
 
Double hmmmm.....
 
Bill

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Mon Aug 27 11:57:15 2007
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:57:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Eudora 6.1
In-Reply-To: <6.0.0.22.2.20070827124100.021b5418@mail.tombuchanan.net>
References: <6.0.0.22.2.20070827124100.021b5418@mail.tombuchanan.net>
Message-ID: <46D3107B.1020701@snet.net>

I'm not sure how to reliably do that, but consider the opposite: filter 
desired stuff "in" to a select folder by creating filters to let the 
acceptable stuff pass through.  I do that with Eudora as well as 
Mozilla/Thunderbird.  More tolerant to errors in setting the parameters; 
questionable mail stays up in the inbox so I can deal with it later.


Tom Buchanan wrote:
> I use a copy of Eudora 6.1 just for the MG Mailing. Does anyone know if 
> there is a way to use filters (or some other way) to exclude all messages 
> that do not have the [MG] in the subject line?
>
> Thanks
> Tom

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Mon Aug 27 13:32:16 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 12:32:16 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
In-Reply-To: <00ec01c7e889$7d6ede90$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934845@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Paul:

The kit Oliver installed uses a pair of off the shelf non adjustable
shocks that are reasonably priced. As fitted they are only slightly
stiffer than the standard lever arm dampers and should retain their
damping effectiveness for many miles.

I'm not going to argue one way or the other on tube vs lever shocks.
We've all been down that road many times.

After a total revamp of the kit about 3 years ago (partly the result of
list feedback) the kit does offer an alternative that is cost effective,
comfortable and has good damping control.

Part of the testing I did during development was to drive the 1973 MGB
test car with two adults across a rutted vacant lot and building site.


Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 2:03 AM
> To: Oliver; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
>
> You do surprise me.  When I had a rear telescopic (fitted by the PO)
fail
> I
> had to replace both as I couldn't get an exact match.  They cost me
about
> 10
> times the price of a pair of rebuilt lever-arms, which only need
replacing
> singly anyway.  Several years later the 'new' telescopics are getting
> softer
> and softer and of course the adjusters have seized.  The irony being
that
> when new they had to be kept on their softest setting or they were way
too
> hard.  Not wishing to wait until it fails the annual test I bought a
pair
> of
> used lever-arms, drop-links and bottom plates at a spares show for
about
> ten
> quid.  Even if I had to replace the lever-arms (although they felt
fine)
> it
> would still be much cheaper than another pair of telescopics but in
the
> event they are fine.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > i chose this route because it was over $100 cheaper than
> > replacing/rebuilding the lever shocks and associated parts.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 27 19:54:38 2007
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:54:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934845@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c7e916$64ac8a50$8215a8c0@Garage.local>

so Kelvin - after driving across a rutted parking lot with two adults - did 
you need chiropractic???

i wouldn't want to do that in my honda!



Part of the testing I did during development was to drive the 1973 MGB
test car with two adults across a rutted vacant lot and building site.


Kelvin Dodd

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug 28 04:04:31 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:04:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9347CB@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <00ff01c7e95c$f2428fe0$0200a8c0@Three>

Actually canvas screens rather than inflatable.  It was also both US and 
British tanks, but very unfortunately a large proportion of the US tanks at 
Omaha sank killing the crews.  Arguments still rage as to whether they were 
floated off the LCTs too far out or whether it was unfavourable currents and 
sea conditions.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The British did it with tanks just before D Day!

>> Taking this to its logical conclusion, maybe an inflatable MGA body

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Tue Aug 28 04:19:20 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:19:20 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] rear springs
References: <cdb.15f18fd2.34045cba@aol.com>
Message-ID: <010101c7e95c$f343fa50$0200a8c0@Three>

The whole point is that with the body supported to do the job, you should be 
able to jack under the springs and compress them enough to get them fully 
fitted, long before the body lifts off its supports.  On its wheels and just 
the vehicle weight i.e. no occupants the rebound strap should be curved and 
there should be about 3" between the top of the bump-stop pedestal and the 
bottom of the bump-rubber.  If this isn't the case the springs are faulty. 
Off-car there should be 41.5" measured in a straight line from the centre of 
the front eye to the centre of the rear eye.  If yours are less than this 
they are too arched.  If they measure that but the weight of the car with 
engine, gearbox, prop-shaft, axle installed is insufficient to allow you to 
compress the springs as I say above then they are too hard.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I use adjustable rear shackles to adjust ride height at the rear and
> sometimes have to really reef down on the rear eye to get it down enough 
> to get  the
> bolt through - which can also entail having to then compress the spring a 
> bit
> more than usual to get the limit strap installed.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 28 10:03:09 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 09:03:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
Message-ID: <573272.50807.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here is what I ended up doing, after thinking on it for a bit.....

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8270013.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Work/P8270012.jpg

I was able to get 2 of the bolts loosened immediately. The others are a little tougher, and I am going to wait until I get my socket ground down a bit so I don't round them off.




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 28 10:35:27 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 09:35:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
In-Reply-To: <001b01c7e916$64ac8a50$8215a8c0@Garage.local>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C934993@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Nope:
I already needed chiropractic after being smashed into by a semi truck.
Still do.

I was looking for full suspension travel with good damping over major
bumps. Springs and bump stops are there for a reason.

Soft springs, good suspension travel and tight dampers are the way to go
for a controlled comfortable ride.


Kelvin Dodd




> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 6:55 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Moss tube shock conversion
>
> so Kelvin - after driving across a rutted parking lot with two adults
-
> did
> you need chiropractic???
>
> i wouldn't want to do that in my honda!
>
>
>
> Part of the testing I did during development was to drive the 1973 MGB
> test car with two adults across a rutted vacant lot and building site.

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 28 10:57:32 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 09:57:32 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
In-Reply-To: <573272.50807.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349A6@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Good job of improvising Dan.

PITA job. I've got to do some digging for part numbers. Rocket makes a
flywheel bolt for a Chrysler application that has a slightly taller head
making them less prone to rounding.

This is one of the areas where an air impact wrench makes all the
difference.

Kelvin Dodd



> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-
> bounces+doddk=mossmotors.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:03 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
>
> Here is what I ended up doing, after thinking on it for a bit.....
>
>
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Wor
k/
> P8270013.jpg
>
>
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1976%20MGB%20Engine%20Wor
k/
> P8270012.jpg
>
> I was able to get 2 of the bolts loosened immediately. The others are
a
> little tougher, and I am going to wait until I get my socket ground
down a
> bit so I don't round them off.

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 28 11:09:05 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:09:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349A6@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <425231.68256.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

"Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote: Good job of improvising Dan.

PITA job. I've got to do some digging for part numbers. Rocket makes a
flywheel bolt for a Chrysler application that has a slightly taller head
making them less prone to rounding. 

This is one of the areas where an air impact wrench makes all the
difference. 

----------------
Perhaps, but I was also afraid that - being a novice with air tools - it might simply allow me to round off the bolt heads more quickly!




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 28 11:19:49 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:19:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
In-Reply-To: <425231.68256.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349BC@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Air tools and the blue wrench are our friends.




Kelvin Dodd
________________________________________
From: Dan DiBiase [mailto:d_dibiase at yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 10:09 AM
To: Dodd, Kelvin; MG List
Subject: RE: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder

"Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
Good job of improvising Dan.

PITA job. I've got to do some digging for part numbers. Rocket makes a
flywheel bolt for a Chrysler application that has a slightly taller head
making them less prone to rounding.

This is one of the areas where an air impact wrench makes all the
difference.
----------------
Perhaps, but I was also afraid that - being a novice with air tools - it
might simply allow me to round off the bolt heads more quickly!



Dan D
Central NJ USA

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Aug 28 11:27:24 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 13:27:24 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
Message-ID: <d55.11a97066.3405b4fc@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2007 10:09:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
d_dibiase at yahoo.com writes:

PITA  job. I've got to do some digging for part numbers. Rocket makes a
flywheel  bolt for a Chrysler application that has a slightly taller head
making them  less prone to rounding. 

This is one of the areas where an air impact  wrench makes all the
difference. 

----------------
Perhaps, but I  was also afraid that - being a novice with air tools - it 
might simply allow  me to round off the bolt heads more quickly!



 
____________________________________


Just one more example of the inherent superiority of the 3  main design - the 
flywheel is held on by studs that are inserted in the crank  from the block 
side and nuts (nice big regular hex nuts) on the rear side that  you can get a 
wrench onto!  None of these wimpy thin headed flat  bolts!
 
The only possible PITA is if you need to replace the studs,  you'd have to 
remove the rear main cap for access.  But then you rarely  need to replace studs 
except at rebuild.
 
 
Bill

From 66etype at gmail.com  Tue Aug 28 11:49:20 2007
From: 66etype at gmail.com (Scott Willis)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 12:49:20 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Recap - Keeneland Concours d'Elegance (Kentucky) August 25th
Message-ID: <f5c189900708281049x301f765fpc8f16c44bd4845bb@mail.gmail.com>

Hey folks,

For those of you interested...We had a blast Saturday at Keeneland. I
believe we had 11 cars in the group on the way up. I finally got to see a
Ferrari 275 GTB and a D-Type in person which are my two favorite cars of all

time.

Once again Keeneland pulled in Pebble Beach caliber cars. Too bad I did not
take
more photos of the high dollar pre-war. The marque
paddocks in the front lawn of the gorgeous Keeneland grounds made for a
fantastic show of drivers. These guys know how to host a show.

I would like to congratulate Bill and Sarah Richey in our club for their
first place in class win for their spectacular MG police car.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2179890270100422800GoRmGr
They beat out many high dollar rolling pieces of art with their "little car
that could". Bill drove up to accept the award wearing his Bobby hat. As
awards were being presented there were vintage planes flying overhead in
formation. It was fantastic.

Following the car show was the Hangar Bash at the air museum across the
road. This gala was filled with great food and spirits surrounded by great
vintage planes, new Porches and Ferraris.

Here are some videos I posted on Youtube of the day. More videos will
follow. Stephen White in the Lambo had 3 professional digital video cameras
so he will be able to put together something professional once again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1DZb_AOhJE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQy3bDaYa4U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq7LMLoGH9I

Here is my Keeneland slideshow I posted on Webshots.
http://rides.webshots.com/slideshow/560438425MUHpQE;jsessionid=abcOWAF4zS0VQ9ogVSLsr

Webshots is FREE and I highly recommend you try it. It is a great way to
send photos to friends, family, post cars for sale, etc. You can upload a
whole file without saving images individually. Great!

Next year the show date moves up to 7-18-08.

See ya on the road.

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC
http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.html
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY

_

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 28 11:57:05 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:57:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
In-Reply-To: <d55.11a97066.3405b4fc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <999498.98133.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

WSpohn4 at aol.com wrote:
Just one more example of the inherent superiority of the 3  main design - the 
flywheel is held on by studs that are inserted in the crank  from the block 
side and nuts (nice big regular hex nuts) on the rear side that  you can get a 
wrench onto!  None of these wimpy thin headed flat  bolts!
 
The only possible PITA is if you need to replace the studs,  you'd have to 
remove the rear main cap for access.  But then you rarely  need to replace studs 
except at rebuild.
 
 
-----------------------
Good to know, Bill, since my '65 has a 3-main engine sitting in it that will be coming out as soon as I wrap up this '76 engine deal....




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From doddk at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 28 12:03:09 2007
From: doddk at mossmotors.com (Dodd, Kelvin)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:03:09 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
In-Reply-To: <00ff01c7e95c$f2428fe0$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349D0@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Paul:

Sorry to go way off subject.  : )

I was referring to the rubber tanks assembled as part of Fortitude
South, the build up of fake military material intended to give the
impression that the D Day landing site would be the Pas de Calais.

It's arguable whether it was effective, but there is some humorous
footage existing showing soldiers picking up inflatable tanks and
tossing them around.

Kelvin Dodd


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 3:05 AM
> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
>
> Actually canvas screens rather than inflatable.  It was also both US
and
> British tanks, but very unfortunately a large proportion of the US
tanks
> at
> Omaha sank killing the crews.  Arguments still rage as to whether they
> were
> floated off the LCTs too far out or whether it was unfavourable
currents
> and
> sea conditions.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > The British did it with tanks just before D Day!
>
> >> Taking this to its logical conclusion, maybe an inflatable MGA body

From WSpohn4 at aol.com  Tue Aug 28 12:08:12 2007
From: WSpohn4 at aol.com (WSpohn4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:08:12 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Home-Built Flywheel Holder
Message-ID: <c6f.17bf3944.3405be8c@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/28/2007 10:57:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
d_dibiase at yahoo.com writes:

Good to  know, Bill, since my '65 has a 3-main engine sitting in it that will 
be coming  out as soon as I wrap up this '76 engine deal....   
____________________________________
 
So many of these were dumped in the old days with people wanting to go to  
the supposedly superior 5 main. In fact the 3 main puts out a little more power  
(less friction), spins more easily and is really quite durable even in 
endurance  racing. In fact it will rev to levels that are not safe for an unmodified 
5  main (that is, over 6500, assuming fitment of suitable valve  springs).
 
Yes, the crank will flex a little more and will have a shorter service  life 
as a result, but if you aren't racing and running to 8K, don't worry about  it.
 
I have run several over the years in the race cars and so can  give my 
personal recommendation.  I continue to run one in my street MGA  coupe.
 
Bill Spohn

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 28 12:33:12 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:33:12 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries [gone way OT -- floating
 tanks]
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349D0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <C2F9B878.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

To be precise, the canvas screens on the "floating" tanks were supported by
inflatable frames, so "inflatable" was an applicable description there, too.
I recently watched a Discovery Channel program where they tested a
recreation of this contrivance on a more recent scout tank. It actually took
to the water and maneuvered, briefly, then started taking on water through
the axle seals and other chassis orifices -- the screens held up, at least
under pond-like conditions.

The post-storm channel on D-Day was definitely not pond-like, however, and I
have to say this apparatus would not have made me feel very confident as a
tank "skipper".



on 8/28/07 11:03 AM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote:

> Paul:
> 
> Sorry to go way off subject.  : )
> 
> I was referring to the rubber tanks assembled as part of Fortitude
> South, the build up of fake military material intended to give the
> impression that the D Day landing site would be the Pas de Calais.
> 
> It's arguable whether it was effective, but there is some humorous
> footage existing showing soldiers picking up inflatable tanks and
> tossing them around.
> 
> Kelvin Dodd
> 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 3:05 AM
>> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
>> 
>> Actually canvas screens rather than inflatable.  It was also both US
> and
>> British tanks, but very unfortunately a large proportion of the US
> tanks
>> at
>> Omaha sank killing the crews.  Arguments still rage as to whether they
>> were
>> floated off the LCTs too far out or whether it was unfavourable
> currents
>> and
>> sea conditions.
>> 
>> PaulH.
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> The British did it with tanks just before D Day!
>> 
>>>> Taking this to its logical conclusion, maybe an inflatable MGA body

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From dbgaither at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 28 13:26:01 2007
From: dbgaither at sbcglobal.net (Douglas Gaither)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 12:26:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - Identification Help
Message-ID: <839559.2971.qm@web81611.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey guys,
   
  I have a guy here at work that knows I love cars and I'm usually pretty good at identification.  But he's stumped me with this one.  It looks Italian to me.  He says there are NO badges on it.  It is behind a fence so he can't inspect it any closer.  Thought someone out there would no.  I apologize for the size of the picture, I don't have any software to decrease the size of the pic.
   
  Doug

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of WhoAmI1.JPG]

From frankk at intap.net  Tue Aug 28 13:30:39 2007
From: frankk at intap.net (frank)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:30:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - Identification Help
References: <839559.2971.qm@web81611.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005001c7e9aa$6cac93f0$de8a0fce@D3N5Y331>

wheres the photo?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Douglas Gaither" <dbgaither at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - Identification Help


> Hey guys,
>
>  I have a guy here at work that knows I love cars and I'm usually pretty 
> good at identification.  But he's stumped me with this one.  It looks 
> Italian to me.  He says there are NO badges on it.  It is behind a fence 
> so he can't inspect it any closer.  Thought someone out there would no.  I 
> apologize for the size of the picture, I don't have any software to 
> decrease the size of the pic.
>
>  Doug
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name 
> of WhoAmI1.JPG]
> _______________________________________________

From d_dibiase at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 28 13:35:29 2007
From: d_dibiase at yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 12:35:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <839559.2971.qm@web81611.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <564748.36362.qm@web50910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Douglas Gaither <dbgaither at sbcglobal.net> wrote: Hey guys,
   
  I have a guy here at work that knows I love cars and I'm usually pretty good at identification.  But he's stumped me with this one.  It looks Italian to me.  He says there are NO badges on it.  It is behind a fence so he can't inspect it any closer.  Thought someone out there would no.  I apologize for the size of the picture, I don't have any software to decrease the size of the pic.
   
---------------
Size doesn't matter, Doug, as you can't send a picture to the list. Needs to be on a website somewhere, and you can send a link to it....




      Dan D
Central NJ USA
'76 MGB Tourer - Driver - <cough cough> What's that smoke? <cough cough>
'65 MGB Tourer Project - Yep, still is....
  '04 Audi A4 1.8T q MT-6 - quattro, baby! 
NAMGBR #5-2328 
  http://dans65b.blogspot.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html

From rocknatural at gmail.com  Tue Aug 28 13:59:53 2007
From: rocknatural at gmail.com (The Roxter)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:59:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Off Topic - Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <839559.2971.qm@web81611.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <839559.2971.qm@web81611.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46D47EB9.8050407@gmail.com>

Douglas Gaither wrote:
> Hey guys,
>    
>   I have a guy here at work that knows I love cars and I'm usually pretty good at identification.  But he's stumped me with this one.  It looks Italian to me.  He says there are NO badges on it.  It is behind a fence so he can't inspect it any closer.  Thought someone out there would no.  I apologize for the size of the picture, I don't have any software to decrease the size of the pic.
>    
>   Doug
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of WhoAmI1.JPG]
If you attach the picture to an email to me, I'll reduce it and put it up on one of my websites and publish a link here.

-The Roxter
--

From barrie at look.ca  Tue Aug 28 13:53:54 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:53:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries [gone way OT -- floating
 tanks]
In-Reply-To: <C2F9B878.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349D0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<C2F9B878.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1IQ7HC-0003P2-9f@beta.look.ca>

I believe that the "sinkings" of these tanks was far far lower at all 
other beaches.  I believe Gold had one down out of twenty 
four.   Everyone had the same weather which tends to support the 
statement that they were launched far too far out because the 
delivery vessels were a little frightened!!!   Shades of old "Yellow Stain".


At 02:33 PM 8/28/2007, Max Heim wrote:
>To be precise, the canvas screens on the "floating" tanks were supported by
>inflatable frames, so "inflatable" was an applicable description there, too.
>I recently watched a Discovery Channel program where they tested a
>recreation of this contrivance on a more recent scout tank. It actually took
>to the water and maneuvered, briefly, then started taking on water through
>the axle seals and other chassis orifices -- the screens held up, at least
>under pond-like conditions.
>
>The post-storm channel on D-Day was definitely not pond-like, however, and I
>have to say this apparatus would not have made me feel very confident as a
>tank "skipper".
>
>
>
>on 8/28/07 11:03 AM, Dodd, Kelvin at doddk at mossmotors.com wrote:
>
> > Paul:
> >
> > Sorry to go way off subject.  : )
> >
> > I was referring to the rubber tanks assembled as part of Fortitude
> > South, the build up of fake military material intended to give the
> > impression that the D Day landing site would be the Pas de Calais.
> >
> > It's arguable whether it was effective, but there is some humorous
> > footage existing showing soldiers picking up inflatable tanks and
> > tossing them around.
> >
> > Kelvin Dodd
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 3:05 AM
> >> To: Dodd, Kelvin; mgs at autox.team.net
> >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
> >>
> >> Actually canvas screens rather than inflatable.  It was also both US
> > and
> >> British tanks, but very unfortunately a large proportion of the US
> > tanks
> >> at
> >> Omaha sank killing the crews.  Arguments still rage as to whether they
> >> were
> >> floated off the LCTs too far out or whether it was unfavourable
> > currents
> >> and
> >> sea conditions.
> >>
> >> PaulH.
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >>> The British did it with tanks just before D Day!
> >>
> >>>> Taking this to its logical conclusion, maybe an inflatable MGA body
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>_______________________________________________
>barrie at look.ca
>
>Edit your replies
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Aug 28 14:50:36 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 22:50:36 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Supra powered BGT
Message-ID: <006801c7e9b5$15754db0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2q0_Y9k3vg&mode=related&search= 

Above and some other movies show a pretty fast BGT!
Amazing how strong the BGT's body can handle the power.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT (still the original engine 18GK)

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Aug 29 01:54:00 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 08:54:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] OT - was Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349D0@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <007b01c7ea11$c6376050$0200a8c0@Three>

Ah yes, and pack-away Spitfires and Hurricanes as well.

It *was* effective, along with other disinformation like bombing rail and 
road links twice as heavily around Calais as in Normandy, Hitler reputedly 
delayed sending reinforcements from the north to the south for two days 
after D-day so convinced was he that it was a feint.  By then ...

Paul.

----- Original Message ----- 
I was referring to the rubber tanks assembled as part of Fortitude
South, the build up of fake military material intended to give the
impression that the D Day landing site would be the Pas de Calais.

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Aug 29 02:12:50 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 09:12:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Price Of Two 6 Volt Batteries [gone way OT -- floating
 tanks]
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0C9349D0@kb1.mossmotors.com><C2F9B878.12C3E%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
	<E1IQ7HC-0003P2-9f@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <00ce01c7ea15$f9321410$0200a8c0@Three>

Whilst the weather top-side may have been the same, it was the different 
underwater currents that were given as a major cause in an interesting 
documentary a few years ago.  Like I say, arguments still rage :o)

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> ...   Everyone had the same weather which tends to support the
> statement that they were launched far too far out because the
> delivery vessels were a little frightened!!! 

From eric at erickson.on.net  Wed Aug 29 02:49:33 2007
From: eric at erickson.on.net (Eric Erickson)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:19:33 +0930
Subject: [Mgs] Supra powered BGT
In-Reply-To: <006801c7e9b5$15754db0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
References: <006801c7e9b5$15754db0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>
Message-ID: <0875897D-2AD3-4C17-BE29-E8FB40D19B74@erickson.on.net>

On 29/08/2007, at 6:20 AM, Hans Duinhoven wrote:

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2q0_Y9k3vg&mode=related&search=
>
> Above and some other movies show a pretty fast BGT!
> Amazing how strong the BGT's body can handle the power.
>
>

I saw that earlier today and loved when he took on the two motorbikes  
and left them for dead.  They were trying, too!



Eric

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Aug 29 14:40:30 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:40:30 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] LABOR DAY BRITISH CAR TOUR STARTING IN MALIBU, CA
Message-ID: <v01520d09c2fb8068da13@[4.232.207.137]>

*****************************************************

Fun SoCal Event! - Labor Day

Labor Day is coming! That means it's time to get your British classic tuned
up in preparation for the 2007 All British Labor Day Run. September 3, 2007
~ Malibu, California

This is the third and final holiday run for the season, so don't miss out!
The Labor Day Run caters to those who love twisty canyon roads, and is
definitely not for anyone who suffers car sickness. The route follows some
of the most fun sports car roads in the Santa Monica mountains, but is
perfectly suitable for sedans or slower drivers as well.

We will meet at the Malibu Colony Plaza located at 23841 West Malibu Road,
at the southwest corner of Pacific Coast Highway and Webb Way,
approximately 12 miles northwest from where I-10 t runs into PCH.  Meeting
time is 8:45 AM with rollout at 9:30 AM.

This is an unorganized  event. Everyone is welcome !

There is a restaurant (Coogie9s) in the plaza for breakfast and a Starbucks
for coffee and
snacks, but you may want to call ahead to make sure they will be open on
the holiday. Fuel is expensive in Malib  so yo  may want to fill  p a few
miles before yo  arrive.
There is little fuel available on the driving route unless yoo take a
detour into town.

There also is a serious lack of restrooms along this route. There is no
shortage of bushes but
not much civilization!  Your best bet for an actual toilet is on Pacific
Coast Highway near
Las Flores Canyon Road.  Keep this in mind when you9re ordering that second
cup of
coffee.

For anyone coming from out of the area, there is a nice "Good Night Inn" in
Calabasas, ten minutes from Malibu. Rates are reasonable (around $60) with
AAA discounts.

Details and a printable route sheet can be found here:
http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/viewtopic.php?t=250

Photos from previous events can be viewed at:
http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/2006labordayrun/

See you there!
mail at socalbritishmotoring.com
******************************************************

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Aug 29 14:40:32 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:40:32 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] LABOR DAY BRITISH CAR TOUR STARTING IN MALIBU, CA
Message-ID: <v01520d0ac2fb808ce281@[4.232.207.137]>

*****************************************************

Fun SoCal Event! - Labor Day

Labor Day is coming! That means it's time to get your British classic tuned
up in preparation for the 2007 All British Labor Day Run. September 3, 2007
~ Malibu, California

This is the third and final holiday run for the season, so don't miss out!
The Labor Day Run caters to those who love twisty canyon roads, and is
definitely not for anyone who suffers car sickness. The route follows some
of the most fun sports car roads in the Santa Monica mountains, but is
perfectly suitable for sedans or slower drivers as well.

We will meet at the Malibu Colony Plaza located at 23841 West Malibu Road,
at the southwest corner of Pacific Coast Highway and Webb Way,
approximately 12 miles northwest from where I-10 t runs into PCH.  Meeting
time is 8:45 AM with rollout at 9:30 AM.

This is an unorganized  event. Everyone is welcome !

There is a restaurant (Coogie9s) in the plaza for breakfast and a Starbucks
for coffee and
snacks, but you may want to call ahead to make sure they will be open on
the holiday. Fuel is expensive in Malib  so yo  may want to fill  p a few
miles before yo  arrive.
There is little fuel available on the driving route unless yoo take a
detour into town.

There also is a serious lack of restrooms along this route. There is no
shortage of bushes but
not much civilization!  Your best bet for an actual toilet is on Pacific
Coast Highway near
Las Flores Canyon Road.  Keep this in mind when you9re ordering that second
cup of
coffee.

For anyone coming from out of the area, there is a nice "Good Night Inn" in
Calabasas, ten minutes from Malibu. Rates are reasonable (around $60) with
AAA discounts.

Details and a printable route sheet can be found here:
http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/viewtopic.php?t=250

Photos from previous events can be viewed at:
http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/2006labordayrun/

See you there!
mail at socalbritishmotoring.com
******************************************************

From mgrick at mgcars.org.uk  Wed Aug 29 15:08:38 2007
From: mgrick at mgcars.org.uk (Rick Brown)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 17:08:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MG2007 Photos
Message-ID: <003101c7ea80$c59aabb0$6501a8c0@RicksPC>

Hi all - Photos of MG2007 in California, courtesy of NAMGBR's  own Charles de
Bourbon,  have been posted at the following website:

http://www.mgnetworks.bgastudios.com/index.htm

Rick
Webmaster for:
___________________________________________________________
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr  - The North American MGB Register
  http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil -  North American Council of MG
Registers
  http://www.britishcarclub.net - The Suncoast Classic MG Club and Nature
Coast English Car Club

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Wed Aug 29 15:36:48 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 17:36:48 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radiio Restoration
Message-ID: <c58.1aef9ea0.340740f0@aol.com>

I am privileged to own a 1960 MGA that has been in my family since  new.  
While I still have the radio installed by the dealer (Johnny Lail,  Glendale, 
CA), it has not been in the car for a number of years.  Now I'd  like to have it 
restored so I can return it to its rightful place in the  dashboard.  It's a 
Philco, five pushbutton AM radio.  All the  knobs and buttons are there.  The 
chrome face would need to be replated and  the plastic knobs/buttons would need 
to be cleaned.  I don't know if the  radio works, but I assume it needs an 
overall tune-up.  There is a  screwhead switch on the side of the radio that I 
presume is used to switch it  from positive to negative ground.  My car is 
positive ground, as supplied  from factory.  Can anybody recommend a vintage radio 
restoration specialist  for my radio?  I live in Riverside, CA, but don't 
mind shipping it anywhere  in the USA.
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 29 15:54:43 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 14:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radiio Restoration
In-Reply-To: <c58.1aef9ea0.340740f0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <774992.97861.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Old AM radios also have antenna trimmers on the
chassis.  They are used to tune the radio to the
antenna.  If you find that is what you have, just
power up the radio, tune a weak station and gently
turn the trimmer back and forth for the loudest
signal.  Of course, if it is a polarity switch DON'T
TOUCH IT. :-P

rick / amateur radio geek

--- Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:

> I am privileged to own a 1960 MGA that has been in
> my family since  new.  
> While I still have the radio installed by the dealer
> (Johnny Lail,  Glendale, 
> CA), it has not been in the car for a number of
> years.  Now I'd  like to have it 
> restored so I can return it to its rightful place in
> the  dashboard.  It's a 
> Philco, five pushbutton AM radio.  All the  knobs
> and buttons are there.  The 
> chrome face would need to be replated and  the
> plastic knobs/buttons would need 
> to be cleaned.  I don't know if the  radio works,
> but I assume it needs an 
> overall tune-up.  There is a  screwhead switch on
> the side of the radio that I 
> presume is used to switch it  from positive to
> negative ground.  My car is 
> positive ground, as supplied  from factory.  Can
> anybody recommend a vintage radio 
> restoration specialist  for my radio?  I live in
> Riverside, CA, but don't 
> mind shipping it anywhere  in the USA.
>  
> Bill Wilkman

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 29 16:22:54 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 15:22:54 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radiio Restoration
In-Reply-To: <774992.97861.qm@web82304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C2FB3FCE.12CEE%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

When I have seen polarity switches on old radios, they have been labelled as
such. But what he was describing sounds like the trimmer. The polarity
switch is usually a two position slider, like a DIP.



on 8/29/07 2:54 PM, Rick Lindsay at rolindsay at yahoo.com wrote:

> Old AM radios also have antenna trimmers on the
> chassis.  They are used to tune the radio to the
> antenna.  If you find that is what you have, just
> power up the radio, tune a weak station and gently
> turn the trimmer back and forth for the loudest
> signal.  Of course, if it is a polarity switch DON'T
> TOUCH IT. :-P
> 
> rick / amateur radio geek
> 
> --- Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
> 
>> I am privileged to own a 1960 MGA that has been in
>> my family since  new.
>> While I still have the radio installed by the dealer
>> (Johnny Lail,  Glendale,
>> CA), it has not been in the car for a number of
>> years.  Now I'd  like to have it
>> restored so I can return it to its rightful place in
>> the  dashboard.  It's a
>> Philco, five pushbutton AM radio.  All the  knobs
>> and buttons are there.  The
>> chrome face would need to be replated and  the
>> plastic knobs/buttons would need
>> to be cleaned.  I don't know if the  radio works,
>> but I assume it needs an
>> overall tune-up.  There is a  screwhead switch on
>> the side of the radio that I
>> presume is used to switch it  from positive to
>> negative ground.  My car is
>> positive ground, as supplied  from factory.  Can
>> anybody recommend a vintage radio
>> restoration specialist  for my radio?  I live in
>> Riverside, CA, but don't
>> mind shipping it anywhere  in the USA.
>>  
>> Bill Wilkman


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 29 17:23:33 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:23:33 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radiio Restoration
References: <C2FB3FCE.12CEE%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <01be01c7ea93$9e7aab80$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<The polarity switch is usually a two position slider, like a DIP.>>

More often tnan not Max, it is a removable "plug" that you just turn 180
degrees<G>!!  Got one In Hortense THE Healey & 1 in a cabinet.

Ed

From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 29 17:31:17 2007
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (Rick Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 16:31:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radiio Restoration
In-Reply-To: <01be01c7ea93$9e7aab80$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <347047.53157.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Okay folks, we need a picture of the "thing" and then
we can speak with a little more authority.

rick


--- WJHS1960 <WJHS1960 at comcast.net> wrote:

> <<The polarity switch is usually a two position
> slider, like a DIP.>>
> 
> More often tnan not Max, it is a removable "plug"
> that you just turn 180
> degrees<G>!!  Got one In Hortense THE Healey & 1 in
> a cabinet.
> 
> Ed

From WJHS1960 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 29 21:23:58 2007
From: WJHS1960 at comcast.net (WJHS1960)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 22:23:58 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radiio Restoration
References: <347047.53157.qm@web82301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <026801c7eab5$36607620$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Okay folks, we need a picture of the "thing" and then
we can speak with a little more authority.
>>

Try tomorrow, Rick.

From barrie at look.ca  Wed Aug 29 10:23:18 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:23:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Turn Indicator no worky
Message-ID: <E1IQl7W-0005Kb-Et@epsilon.look.ca>

I have a 1970  MGB GT body which I think has the original steering 
column.  I have just fitted a new turn indicator stalk assembly and 
new wiper stalk assembly.  The former fitted because I know I dropped 
parts out of the original during a stupid over zealous dis-assembly - 
and result was it no longer self cancelled.  So thus the new 
part.  However, on test it still does not self cancel and I wonder if 
there is some trick to the rotating bit that sticks up to the 
steering wheel (I have a Moto-lite).  I also cannot get the back two 
screws on the shroud (I installed  77-80 dash and put shroud on).  It 
seems they are NC 10/32 bolts against the NF ones used to pinch the 
two shroud parts together  Can anyone help with some sage advice?

Thank you very much in advance for your response

Regards

Barrie Robinson
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm

PURVEYOR  of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges
                         Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs
                         High-tech sound deadening materials
                       .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Aug 30 09:46:31 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 16:46:31 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Turn Indicator no worky
References: <E1IQl7W-0005Kb-Et@epsilon.look.ca>
Message-ID: <00e301c7eb1e$f43a0da0$0200a8c0@Three>

It shouldn't be the wheel that cancels the indicator stalk but a peg or clip 
attached to the column.  I think it was about 1970 that it changed from a 
peg screwed into the column, which required the column to be orientated 
correctly for the cancelling to work correctly.  After that is was a clip 
which can be slid round the column to the correct position.  Both types 
operate on fingers sticking out from the indicator switch assembly, so by 
removing the cowl, operating the switch, and turning the wheel it should be 
possible to see what isn't happening.  Straight ahead the peg or raised 
portion of the clip should face the switch.  Turning the wheel less than 1/4 
turn should bring the peg or clip under and away from the appropriate 
finger, such that when the wheel is returned to the straight ahead position 
the peg or clip engages the end of the finger and pushes the switch to the 
'off' position.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  However, on test it still does not self cancel and I wonder if
> there is some trick to the rotating bit that sticks up to the
> steering wheel (I have a Moto-lite). 

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Thu Aug 30 12:55:20 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 14:55:20 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radio Repair
Message-ID: <c85.19fa8ae7.34086c98@aol.com>

I checked the screw  head control on the side of my radio, and, indeed  it 
appears to be an antenna tuner.  In any event the control is not a two  position 
switch, but rather it is like a volume control.  There is nothing  else that 
is adjustable on the chassis of the radio.  I know this radio was  installed 
at the dealer in 1959 when the car was purchased, so is this radio  likely to 
be a positive ground only radio?  
 
Also, I'm still looking for a vintage radio repair shop.  Any  
recommendations?
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From ptrmgb at gmail.com  Thu Aug 30 13:06:27 2007
From: ptrmgb at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 14:06:27 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radio Repair
In-Reply-To: <c85.19fa8ae7.34086c98@aol.com>
References: <c85.19fa8ae7.34086c98@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46D71533.8040903@gmail.com>

In the past, this list, or the yahoo one, have talked about companies 
that will put modern guts
into a vintage radio.  I don't know how they get it to work (like tuning 
FM or XM when you have
only an AM faceplate) but that may be an option.

I googled "vintage car radio" and came up with

http://radiosforoldcars.com

no affiliation or experience.  There were many others.

Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
> I checked the screw  head control on the side of my radio, and, indeed  it 
> appears to be an antenna tuner.  In any event the control is not a two  position 
> switch, but rather it is like a volume control.  There is nothing  else that 
> is adjustable on the chassis of the radio.  I know this radio was  installed 
> at the dealer in 1959 when the car was purchased, so is this radio  likely to 
> be a positive ground only radio?  
>  
> Also, I'm still looking for a vintage radio repair shop.  Any  
> recommendations?
>  
> Bill Wilkman
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> ptrmgb at gmail.com
>
> Edit your replies
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs

From dwood143 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 30 13:32:21 2007
From: dwood143 at comcast.net (Dave Wood)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 12:32:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radio Repair
References: <c85.19fa8ae7.34086c98@aol.com> <46D71533.8040903@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001301c7eb3c$7c3d3660$6401a8c0@pentium>

Paul et all,

I've been subscribing to a magazine called Auto Restorer for several years
and they have had a 4-part series of articles in the past year or so on
restoring old AM transistor auto radios.  I didn't pay much attention to the
articles as I don't have an old radio to repair.  The magazine is primarily
about restoring old American iron but relevant to our MG's.

Their web site is:  http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/

If you want I'll look up the back issues for you.

Dave 72 B

From rowdon at sonoma-county.org  Thu Aug 30 15:46:44 2007
From: rowdon at sonoma-county.org (DON SCOTT)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 14:46:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radio Repair
Message-ID: <s6d6d86d.066@pwd1.sonoma.gov>

Years ago, I remember an article in Practical Classics (from UK) that
featured a company that restores and sells vintage radios for British
and European cars.  If you're looking for a competent radio
restoration, a radio for an MG might have to be sent to such a place. 
They would be more likely to have needed compenents and they would have
experience with that particular radio, where a company in the US might
not.  

On the other hand, a lot of the radios in MGs were US-made and fitted
by dealers, or so I've read.

Don Scott
'62 MGA
'73 MGB GT
'91 Miata BRG

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Thu Aug 30 15:57:16 2007
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 22:57:16 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Vintage Radio Repair
References: <s6d6d86d.066@pwd1.sonoma.gov>
Message-ID: <01ee01c7eb50$be29f400$0c00a8c0@ClassicCarWorld.local>

Hei, many years ago I had an old Bendix AM radio repaired as fitted in an 
imported Austin Healey by the following guy here in the UK. At the time he 
also offered a conversion to the radio for it to pick up FM. I'm not sure if 
he is still in business but if anyone is interested I can give him a call to 
find out.

AC James
Car Radio Repair & Restoration Service
10 Westview
Bristol
Avon
BS39 7XJ
Telephone:01761 413933
Fax:01761 413933


Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay (Director)
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
FAX: 0870 705 9115
E-Mail: tom at classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk

Now offering quality Sealey & Draper tools at discount prices, see 
www.ccw-tools.com for further details.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "DON SCOTT" <rowdon at sonoma-county.org>
To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Vintage Radio Repair


> Years ago, I remember an article in Practical Classics (from UK) that
> featured a company that restores and sells vintage radios for British
> and European cars.  If you're looking for a competent radio
> restoration, a radio for an MG might have to be sent to such a place.
> They would be more likely to have needed compenents and they would have
> experience with that particular radio, where a company in the US might
> not.
>
> On the other hand, a lot of the radios in MGs were US-made and fitted
> by dealers, or so I've read.
>
> Don Scott
> '62 MGA
> '73 MGB GT
> '91 Miata BRG
> _______________________________________________
> enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk

From dbgaither at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 19:20:35 2007
From: dbgaither at sbcglobal.net (Douglas Gaither)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:20:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links
Message-ID: <C51E28C9-D58B-427E-80DF-F83169F46134@sbcglobal.net>

Hey guys,

This is the 2nd time I've posed this question, but THIS time I have  
links to the pics!    I have a guy here at work that knows I love  
cars and I'm usually pretty good at identification.  But he's stumped  
me with this one.  It looks Italian to me.  He says there are NO  
badges on it.  It is behind a fence so he can't inspect it any  
closer.  Thought someone out there would no.  I apologize for the  
size of the picture, I don't have any software to decrease the size  
of the pic.

   Doug

SPECIAL THANKS to Roxster for placing these pics somewhere you can  
view them.

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/WhoAmI1.JPG

http://www.rockyfrisco.com/WhoAmI2.JPG

From max_heim at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 19:54:29 2007
From: max_heim at sbcglobal.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:54:29 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links
In-Reply-To: <C51E28C9-D58B-427E-80DF-F83169F46134@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C2FCC2E5.12DAA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>

That is a Subaru 360. They were imported by Malcolm Bricklin (of Bricklin
sports car fame) in the late 60s or early 70s.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/30/07 6:20 PM, Douglas Gaither at dbgaither at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Hey guys,
> 
> This is the 2nd time I've posed this question, but THIS time I have
> links to the pics!    I have a guy here at work that knows I love
> cars and I'm usually pretty good at identification.  But he's stumped
> me with this one.  It looks Italian to me.  He says there are NO
> badges on it.  It is behind a fence so he can't inspect it any
> closer.  Thought someone out there would no.  I apologize for the
> size of the picture, I don't have any software to decrease the size
> of the pic.
> 
>    Doug
> 
> SPECIAL THANKS to Roxster for placing these pics somewhere you can
> view them.
> 
> http://www.rockyfrisco.com/WhoAmI1.JPG
> 
> http://www.rockyfrisco.com/WhoAmI2.JPG

From PRNDL at sonic.net  Thu Aug 30 20:05:32 2007
From: PRNDL at sonic.net (Rod Williams)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:05:32 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links
In-Reply-To: <C2FCC2E5.12DAA%max_heim@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C2FCC57C.87A6%PRNDL@sonic.net>

> They were imported by Malcolm Bricklin (of Bricklin
> sports car fame) in the late 60s or early 70s.
And for a while in the late '60s there was an encampment of over a hundred
of them in San Francisco behind a fence at Fort Mason on Marina Drive.
Impounded before sale as the brakes didn't work too swell. Where did they
all go???
-- 
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
1967 MGB

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Aug 30 21:10:23 2007
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:10:23 -0800
Subject: [Mgs] San Diego British Car Day - Sunday, October 7
Message-ID: <v01520d08c2fd33c887a3@[4.232.207.249]>

>From: "Steve" <skirby210 at cox.net>
>To: "Richard Feibusch" <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>
>Subject: San Diego British Car Day
>Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:30:10 -0700
>
>Hi Folks--
>
>Just a reminder . . . 
>
>This year we are NOT snail mailing the Registration Forms for the upcoming (Sunday, October 7th) San Diego British Car Day.

28th ANNUAL SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY & PICNIC
        Sunday, October 7, 2007
Fairbrook Farms, 4949 S. Mission Road
Fallbrook, California  (directions below)
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org
>
>I've attached the form and explanation page for your convenience.  Pre-Registration is only $20.00.  By Pre-registering you save $5.00 at the gate, you save considerable time (by not having to wait in line . . . on what is usually a warm day!) and it allows the organizers to order the correct number of trophies and organize the field for the number and type of cars pre-registered.
>
>Please share the form with any and all who are interested!!!
>
>In order to be pre-registered, we need to have your form and check returned to us by September 10th.
>
>We hope to see you all there!  We'll have wonderful vendors and the Cameron Highlanders Bagpipers--back by popular demand.  The last 5 years, we have been averaging around 430 wonderful British cars!
>
>Plan on bringing a picnic and your own beverages, or enjoying the wonderful food provided by our ultra fantastic food vendor, Hogg's Beach BBQ.
>
>QUESTIONS?    
Please call San Diego British Car Day Info Line: 760-746-1458

Steve Kirby

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 30 21:35:14 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 23:35:14 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links
Message-ID: <c39.1d378036.3408e672@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/30/2007 7:21:01 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
dbgaither at sbcglobal.net writes:


This  is the 2nd time I've posed this question, but THIS time I have
links  to the pics!    I have a guy here at work that knows I love
cars and I'm usually pretty good at identification.  But he's  stumped
me with this one.  It looks Italian to me.  He  says there are NO
badges on it.  It is behind a fence so he  can't inspect it any
closer.  Thought someone out there would  no.  I apologize for the
size of the picture, I don't have any  software to decrease the size


95%sure that's a Subaru.  Back in about 1970 a Dallas car dealer  bought a
shipload of them and was retailing them for something like  $995.00...this was
before Subaru started making cars for the US market and  importing them.

Robert Houston



Robert B. Houston
Rampant, Inc.

74.5 MGBGT
73  MG Midget

b_In  England, if you commit a crime, the police don't have a gun and you
don't have a  gun. If you commit a crime, the police will say "Stop, or I'll
say
stop  again."_
(http://en.thinkexist.com/quotation/in_england-if_you_commit_a_crime-the_poli
ce_don-t/330401.html)
_Robin Williams _ (http://en.thinkexist.com/quotes/robin_williams/)



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From RampantNM at aol.com  Thu Aug 30 21:36:44 2007
From: RampantNM at aol.com (RampantNM at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 23:36:44 EDT
Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links
Message-ID: <d4e.fef8113.3408e6cc@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/30/2007 8:06:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
PRNDL at sonic.net writes:

And for  a while in the late '60s there was an encampment of over a hundred
of them  in San Francisco behind a fence at Fort Mason on Marina Drive.
Impounded  before sale as the brakes didn't work too swell. Where did they
all  go???


Those are probably the ones the Dallas car dealer was selling.   They were
3-4 years old but still brand new when he was selling them.



Robert B. Houston
Rampant, Inc.

74.5 MGBGT
73  MG Midget

b_In  England, if you commit a crime, the police don't have a gun and you
don't have a  gun. If you commit a crime, the police will say "Stop, or I'll
say
stop  again."_
(http://en.thinkexist.com/quotation/in_england-if_you_commit_a_crime-the_poli
ce_don-t/330401.html)
_Robin Williams _ (http://en.thinkexist.com/quotes/robin_williams/)



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Aug 31 02:07:56 2007
From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk (Paul Hunt)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 09:07:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Turn Indicator no worky
References: <E1IQl7W-0005Kb-Et@epsilon.look.ca>
	<00e301c7eb1e$f43a0da0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<740643ECEB284CEFBEF40B12A59504A0@JimPC>
Message-ID: <005d01c7eba6$98054850$0200a8c0@Three>

I was assuming Barrie had fitted the correct switch for his column, which 
being a 1970 could be the early peg or the later clip.  I wouldn't expect a 
77/80 switch to even fit a 70 earlier column.

Out of interest I'm guessing the cancelling mechanism is entirely internal 
to the 77/80 switch with both stalks on the same assembly?

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The cancelling mechinism is different in 1976 from 1977-80.

From barrie at look.ca  Fri Aug 31 09:20:23 2007
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 11:20:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Turn Indicator no worky
In-Reply-To: <005d01c7eba6$98054850$0200a8c0@Three>
References: <E1IQl7W-0005Kb-Et@epsilon.look.ca>
	<00e301c7eb1e$f43a0da0$0200a8c0@Three>
	<740643ECEB284CEFBEF40B12A59504A0@JimPC>
	<005d01c7eba6$98054850$0200a8c0@Three>
Message-ID: <E1IR8Sg-0004EN-RT@alpha.look.ca>

Paul,


.  I used a 1970 shell which came with obviously a 1970 steering 
column although I am not sure how to confirm this.  I put in a 77-80 
dash .  The turn indicator did not work and I assumed this was 
because I had dropped parts out of the switch when cleaning it (big 
mistake!).   So I have fitted a new one together with a wiper stalk 
because I broke the stalk off accidentally.  As I said before my turn 
thingy does not self cancel and judging from your comments I do not 
have the correct part for my column as I ordered for a 77-80 but I 
only replaced the dash NOT the column.  So looks like I need an 
141-810 part instead of the 141-850 I bought.  I do hope that they 
are not fussy about the connections !!???  When I get the new part I 
will jack up the front so I can get the thing set up correctly.  Now 
to search eBay for a 141-810 (Moss number)

At 11:46 AM 8/30/2007, you wrote:
It shouldn't be the wheel that cancels the indicator stalk but a peg 
or clip attached to the column.  I think it was about 1970 that it 
changed from a peg screwed into the column, which required the column 
to be orientated correctly for the cancelling to work 
correctly.  After that is was a clip which can be slid round the 
column to the correct position.  Both types operate on fingers 
sticking out from the indicator switch assembly, so by removing the 
cowl, operating the switch, and turning the wheel it should be 
possible to see what isn't happening.  Straight ahead the peg or 
raised portion of the clip should face the switch.  Turning the wheel 
less than 1/4 turn should bring the peg or clip under and away from 
the appropriate finger, such that when the wheel is returned to the 
straight ahead position the peg or clip engages the end of the finger 
and pushes the switch to the 'off' position.

PaulH.



At 04:07 AM 8/31/2007, Paul Hunt wrote:
>I was assuming Barrie had fitted the correct switch for his column, 
>which being a 1970 could be the early peg or the later clip.  I 
>wouldn't expect a 77/80 switch to even fit a 70 earlier column.
>
>Out of interest I'm guessing the cancelling mechanism is entirely 
>internal to the 77/80 switch with both stalks on the same assembly?
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>The cancelling mechinism is different in 1976 from 1977-80.
>
>
>

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm  

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri Aug 31 11:34:26 2007
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 19:34:26 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links
References: <C51E28C9-D58B-427E-80DF-F83169F46134@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <004001c7ebf5$2d3b14b0$1e00a8c0@uw471de61b465c>

This looks like a Fiat 500 or the Steyr variant (Austrian made under 
license).
500 CC engine in the rear - kind of cult car under the classics in Europe.
The model exsists 50 years now - first appearance in 1957.
Sold in millions.
These funny cars even were raced in the sixties.
There also were Abarth versions (sports models).

It even might be a Polish flavour of the Fiat 500.

Funny enough Fiat released a new retro style Fiat 500 a few weeks ago.
It has been sold out for month immediately.

Hope this has helped.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Douglas Gaither" <dbgaither at sbcglobal.net>
To: "list mg" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 3:20 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Car ID help - this time /w links


> Hey guys,
>
> This is the 2nd time I've posed this question, but THIS time I have
> links to the pics!    I have a guy here at work that knows I love
> cars and I'm usually pretty good at identification.  But he's stumped
> me with this one.  It looks Italian to me.  He says there are NO
> badges on it.  It is behind a fence so he can't inspect it any
> closer.  Thought someone out there would no.  I apologize for the
> size of the picture, I don't have any software to decrease the size
> of the pic.
>
>   Doug
>
> SPECIAL THANKS to Roxster for placing these pics somewhere you can
> view them.
>
> http://www.rockyfrisco.com/WhoAmI1.JPG
>
> http://www.rockyfrisco.com/WhoAmI2.JPG