From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz Thu Oct 6 13:43:07 2011 From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 19:43:07 +0000 Subject: [Mg-t] TD clutch rod broke Message-ID: Giday T people Spring in New Zealand, so took the TD to work the other day. On the way home the bottom clutch rod snapped just at the start of the thread at the front. I got home under my own steam without the clutch - although intersections were exciting! This was a new Moss part 3500 miles ago so a bit annoyed. I have ordered another Moss one to get mobile again but I was wondering if I should use the old one as a pattern to get a new one made up in stronger steel using the original yoke? Perhaps in stainless. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If I do get one made up what is the best type of metal to specify? Cheers Douglas From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com Thu Oct 6 16:14:35 2011 From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (MARK SHERMAN) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 18:14:35 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] TD clutch rod broke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Doug: Been there, done that. Lots has been written about modifications to the lever that reduce stress on the rod. See: http://www.oconnorclassics.com/techtalk_clutch.php Mark Sherman On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 3:43 PM, Douglas Ormrod < Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz> wrote: > Giday T people > > Spring in New Zealand, so took the TD to work the other day. On the way > home > the bottom clutch rod snapped just at the start of the thread at the front. > I > got home under my own steam without the clutch - although intersections > were > exciting! > > This was a new Moss part 3500 miles ago so a bit annoyed. I have ordered > another Moss one to get mobile again but I was wondering if I should use > the > old one as a pattern to get a new one made up in stronger steel using the > original yoke? Perhaps in stainless. > > Has anyone else experienced this problem? If I do get one made up what is > the > best type of metal to specify? > > Cheers > > Douglas > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mrkshrmn at hotmail.com > > -- Mark Sherman From PopeyMike at aol.com Thu Oct 6 22:33:40 2011 From: PopeyMike at aol.com (PopeyMike at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 00:33:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mg-t] TD clutch rod broke Message-ID: <52d87.6b3143e.3bbfdb24@aol.com> Hello New Zealand: Visited there in 1998 and again in 2001 - I still think it is the most beautiful and peaceful country in the world to live in. Same thing happened to me about 10 years ago. I just took a piece of steel tubing that fit tight over the top of the rod and brazed it in place. It has worked well for me since. Never need to replace the rod or make it out of anything more stronger. Michael Balahutrak Houston TX In a message dated 10/6/2011 4:18:56 P.M. Central Daylight Time, Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz writes: Giday T people Spring in New Zealand, so took the TD to work the other day. On the way home the bottom clutch rod snapped just at the start of the thread at the front. I got home under my own steam without the clutch - although intersections were exciting! This was a new Moss part 3500 miles ago so a bit annoyed. I have ordered another Moss one to get mobile again but I was wondering if I should use the old one as a pattern to get a new one made up in stronger steel using the original yoke? Perhaps in stainless. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If I do get one made up what is the best type of metal to specify? Cheers Douglas ______________________________________________ Mg-t at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/popeymike at aol.com From shop at justbrits.com Thu Oct 6 23:39:31 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 00:39:31 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] [Fwd: [...S...pridgets] Classic Car of the Year shortlist - Telegraph] Message-ID: <4E8E9093.1040407@justbrits.com> From the Spridgets List !!! Oughta make a chap down in AZ very happy as well as Big Healey Rally car lovers !!! And I DO want the Triumph Roadster ! ! ! http://tinyurl.com/3dj4nst or* * http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/picturegalleries/8808725/Classic-Car-of- the-Year-shortlist.html _______________________________________________ Ed From ddubois at sinclair.net Thu Oct 6 23:51:15 2011 From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois) Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 22:51:15 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] TD clutch rod broke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E8E9353.6000208@sinclair.net> Doug, Below is an article that I wrote around a a question by a gentleman on one of the T series forums online that will answer your question about the broken rod. Something interesting happened on the way to the forum (actually while looking up information for Richard in regards to the clutch pedal stop in the TD/TF). First, according to the T series Handbook, published by the New England Register, the pedal stop on the early TDs (TD/0251 through TD/22250) was accomplished by the cable that operated the clutch. Starting with TD22251 through the TFs, the cable was abandoned and a rod linkage was used to operate the clutch. At this point, a clutch stop bolt was added to the bottom of the pedal box in the cars. The cable stop and the the clutch stop bolt effectively stops any further travel of the throw out bearing against the thrust plate on the clutch pressure plate beyond the point where the clutch disk is released and the prevention of possible damage to the clutch throw out bearing due to over travel. Over time, the clutch cables were no longer produced and the early cars that had originally been equipped with the cable were converted to the clutch rod linkage, but since there was no mention anywhere about the clutch stop bolt, said bolt was not added to these cars. Also the cable stop bolt in a number of the later TDs and in the TFs were undoubtedly lost or didn't get reinstalled during repair or restoration. Fast forward a number of years and Mike O'Connor of O'Connor classics in California wrote an article in response to the breakage/bending of the main clutch rod in TD as a result of interference with the web of the clutch lever on the side of the sump. Mike's cure for this problem was to grind the web of the clutch lever at an angle so that the clutch rod was no longer bothered by this web. Also somewhere around that time frame, two other gentlemen in California wrote a seemingly unrelated article about, among other things, the missing clutch stop bolt and how to make one and install it in the early cars that never had one. Both of these articles reside in my great file of things MG, having been read by me and filed for future reference (such as when someone like Richard asks the question about excessive clutch pedal travel). In particular, Mike O'Connor's article piqued my curiosity as to why I had never had a problem with clutch rod breakage or bending even though the web in the clutch lever on our TD had never been modified. My curiosity was piqued, but not sufficiently to make me explore the reason the clutch rod/clutch lever in our TD had not had any problem and so nothing was looked into or done other than check that the clutch stop bolt was in fact installed in our TD. Because of Richard's question, I dug out the two aforementioned articles and made copies to send to Richard and it was then that the penny finally dropped - the missing clutch stop bolt was the reason for the need of Mike O'Connor's modification to the clutch lever on the early TD. I also realized that I had never heard of a clutch rod being broken on a TF. Serendipity is a wonderful thing. While the O'Connor modification to the clutch lever is a quick and easy fix to broken clutch rods, it does not fix the root problem, nor does it prevent excessive pedal travel, resulting in excessive pressure being applied to the clutch throwout bearing or the thrust surface of the clutch pressure plate. Since I can't attach anything to replies on this list, I will e-mail you directly with information on making and installing a pedal stop bolt. Cheers, Dave From gunnellj at tds.net Fri Oct 7 03:25:55 2011 From: gunnellj at tds.net (gunnellj tds.net) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 04:25:55 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Ford Flathead in T Series Message-ID: I am looking to contact anyone who has experience building a T Series MG with Ford V8-60 power. I am reviving an abused 1950 TD as an "old skol rod" and want to use the small Ford flathead V-8 for power. I would prefer doing the conversion the way something like this was done (successfully) years ago, rather than how it might be done today with more high-tech hardware. In other words, I hope to keep the T series frame, chassis, body as original as practically possible. -- "Gunner" John Gunnell PO Box 87 Iola, WI 54945 Ph: 715 445 4262 Cell: 715 281 5925 Please visit Gunner's Great Garage Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - and Art Gallery at the corner of Highway 110 and E6110 Fuhs Road in Manawa, WI Shop: 920-596-2273 www.gunnersgreatgarage.com Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com From kingseim at earthlink.net Fri Oct 7 05:59:39 2011 From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 04:59:39 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] TD clutch rod broke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6CB9D82F-0237-489A-A842-284A3F12AE6C@earthlink.net> The clutch rod is made from high carbon steel. It should be OK. There are a few components that can accelerate the breaking of a clutch rod. Mike O'Connor, of O'Connor Classic Automobiles, wrote up a tech talk item about the TD/TF clutch. It talks about filing a groove in the clutch lever on the engine, so that the clutch rod does not get the bend in it. Quite a few good hints. John Seim Irvine, CA USA http://www.oconnorclassics.com/techtalk_clutch.php On Oct 6, 2011, at 12:43 PM, Douglas Ormrod wrote: > Giday T people > > Spring in New Zealand, so took the TD to work the other day. On the > way home > the bottom clutch rod snapped just at the start of the thread at > the front. I > got home under my own steam without the clutch - although > intersections were > exciting! > > This was a new Moss part 3500 miles ago so a bit annoyed. I have > ordered > another Moss one to get mobile again but I was wondering if I > should use the > old one as a pattern to get a new one made up in stronger steel > using the > original yoke? Perhaps in stainless. > > Has anyone else experienced this problem? If I do get one made up > what is the > best type of metal to specify? > > Cheers > > Douglas > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ > kingseim at earthlink.net From chillmog at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 7 20:32:33 2011 From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill) Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 22:32:33 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] Ford Flathead in T Series In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E8FB641.7090903@sbcglobal.net> John, I've seen a few T cars with flatheads. They were pretty crude and hacked up. Not something you would really want to duplicate. You might reconsider. I've see a couple of early Volvo conversions. While not exactly what I would want, the are also period-correct and a much better fit. From what I remember seeing, the installations were much better implemented than the flathead hatchet jobs. Charles Hill On 10/7/2011 5:25 AM, gunnellj tds.net wrote: > I am looking to contact anyone who has experience building a T Series MG > with Ford V8-60 power. I am reviving an abused 1950 TD as an "old skol rod" > and want to use the small Ford flathead V-8 for power. I would prefer doing > the conversion the way something like this was done (successfully) years > ago, rather than how it might be done today with more high-tech hardware. In > other words, I hope to keep the T series frame, chassis, body as original as > practically possible. From tmcnam4510 at aol.com Sat Oct 8 07:06:08 2011 From: tmcnam4510 at aol.com (tmcnam4510 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 09:06:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mg-t] Ford Flathead in T Series In-Reply-To: <4E8FB641.7090903@sbcglobal.net> References: <4E8FB641.7090903@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <8CE53D22D81AD56-37F0-69CEA@webmail-m173.sysops.aol.com> John, try the "British V8 site. Regards, Tom -----Original Message----- From: Charles Hill To: mg-t Sent: Fri, Oct 7, 2011 8:17 pm Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ford Flathead in T Series John, I've seen a few T cars with flatheads. They were pretty crude and hacked up. Not something you would really want to duplicate. You might reconsider. I've see a couple of early Volvo conversions. While not exactly what I would want, the are also period-correct and a much better fit. From what I remember seeing, the installations were much better implemented than the flathead hatchet jobs. Charles Hill On 10/7/2011 5:25 AM, gunnellj tds.net wrote: > I am looking to contact anyone who has experience building a T Series MG > with Ford V8-60 power. I am reviving an abused 1950 TD as an "old skol rod" > and want to use the small Ford flathead V-8 for power. I would prefer doing > the conversion the way something like this was done (successfully) years > ago, rather than how it might be done today with more high-tech hardware. In > other words, I hope to keep the T series frame, chassis, body as original as > practically possible. ______________________________________________ Mg-t at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/tmcnam4510 at aol.com From s4usea at yahoo.com Sun Oct 9 07:18:12 2011 From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 06:18:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mg-t] Steering Rack Issue Message-ID: <1318166292.20086.YahooMailClassic@web120529.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hi, When I take more than a 90 degree left turn my steering rack sticks. I can "snap" it back out if I give it a hard left followed by a right, nut at speed it'll be dangerous. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this, or has an idea where I should look for the cause of the problem. I regularly lube the rack, to include using gear oil in it rather than grease as some people mistakenly do. Thanks in advance, Scott Allen '52 TD From jquilter at peoplepc.com Sun Oct 9 14:23:40 2011 From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John F. Quilter) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 13:23:40 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] Steering Rack Issue References: <1318166292.20086.YahooMailClassic@web120529.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: For diagnosis you might, jack the car up in the front and turn the wheel full left and return it to straight. Then if it binds disconnect the tie rod ends on both sides from the swivel pins and do the same. If it still binds you have determined the issue is in the rack or steering column, and not caused by a binding of the swivel pins. John Quilter Eugene, Oregon ----- Original Message ----- From: "S Allen" To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 6:18 AM Subject: [Mg-t] Steering Rack Issue > Hi, > > When I take more than a 90 degree left turn my steering rack sticks. I > can > "snap" it back out if I give it a hard left followed by a right, nut at > speed > it'll be dangerous. > > I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this, or has an idea where I > should look for the cause of the problem. > > I regularly lube the rack, to include using gear oil in it rather than > grease > as some people mistakenly do. > > Thanks in advance, > > Scott Allen > > '52 TD > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/jquilter at peoplepc.com From mgbob at juno.com Mon Oct 10 07:18:37 2011 From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 13:18:37 GMT Subject: [Mg-t] Steering Rack Issue Message-ID: <20111010.091837.27163.7@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> ---------- Original Message ---------- From: S Allen To: mg-t at autox.team.net Cc: mg-t at team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Steering Rack Issue Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 06:18:12 -0700 (PDT) Hi Scott, If this sticking releases with a "snap", I would be very concerned that there is something jamming the gear teeth. I think John's advice is good to follow, checking free movement of the swivel pins and column, and when the tie-rod ends are disconnected, you can move the steering wheel & rack to feel the rack's action. Bob Hi, When I take more than a 90 degree left turn my steering rack sticks. I can "snap" it back out if I give it a hard left followed by a right, nut at speed it'll be dangerous. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this, or has an idea where I should look for the cause of the problem. I regularly lube the rack, to include using gear oil in it rather than grease as some people mistakenly do. Thanks in advance, Scott Allen '52 TD ______________________________________________ Mg-t at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com From crownwheel at comcast.net Wed Oct 12 14:24:12 2011 From: crownwheel at comcast.net (Gene Fodor) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:24:12 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] embarrassing question Message-ID: <011b01cc891c$e8525060$b8f6f120$@net> Listers . I have been changing the oil and filter on Eliot, our '53 TD for a number of years now with no problem, i.e. leakage from the filter canister. Well, today I can't remember which of the 3 'o' rings supplied with the filter to use . don't laugh. I thought it was the widest one and yet there is a good leak. Any thoughts? Thanks Gene Vermont From lawrie at britcars.com Wed Oct 12 17:35:16 2011 From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:35:16 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] embarrassing question References: <011b01cc891c$e8525060$b8f6f120$@net> Message-ID: <61178642554E4C08B4D36F9AC0091FDD@shop> Surprisingly, Gene, it's the middle-thickness one if you can get that in the groove; sometimes even that one is too thick. In the latter case, use the thinnest one. It's important to make sure that there isn't an old one stuck deep in there! Usually, leaks at this point are because the old one hasn't been taken out. Use a pick to dig around and check. If the old one has been there for some years, it will feel hard and even look like metal. You have to make sure you are really down to metal before you try and fit a new one .......... Lawrie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gene Fodor" To: "mg-t net" Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 1:24 PM Subject: [Mg-t] embarrassing question > Listers . > > I have been changing the oil and filter on Eliot, our '53 TD for a number > of years now with no problem, i.e. leakage from the filter canister. Well, > today I can't remember which of the 3 'o' rings supplied with the filter > to > use . don't laugh. > > I thought it was the widest one and yet there is a good leak. > > Any thoughts? > > Thanks > > Gene > > Vermont > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie at britcars.com From ddubois at sinclair.net Wed Oct 12 17:42:43 2011 From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:42:43 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] embarrassing question In-Reply-To: <011b01cc891c$e8525060$b8f6f120$@net> References: <011b01cc891c$e8525060$b8f6f120$@net> Message-ID: <4E9625F3.8030309@sinclair.net> Gene, It should be the middle one (measures about .080 wide). Once you have one in the grove and it doesn't leak, don't change it. As long as the gasket in place doesn't leak, there is no reason to change it. The one in our TD has been in place for nearly 20 years and still doesn't leak. Cheers, Dave From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz Sat Oct 15 03:22:54 2011 From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 09:22:54 +0000 Subject: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations Message-ID: Hi T people My shiny new Moss clutch rod arrived today so I off I went to fit it this evening. After a neck wrenching hour or so on my back I have discovered it don't fit either way up - will not line up with the pivot. Comparing it with my broken one (which was a new Moss one 7 or 8 years ago) I find the new one looks like a mirror image of the old one and bends the opposite way. So I am thinking their must be a LHD and RHD one, although Moss only list one for this part. My car is RHD. I think that with the application of a little heat around the area of the bend nearest the pedal and can make it the right shape. But thought I would check first that there is a difference between the shape of the rod on the LHD and RHD cars. Can anyone enlighten me? Cheers Douglas From britcrs at gmail.com Sat Oct 15 07:42:11 2011 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Britcrs) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 06:42:11 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2461899C-07A3-49DE-B661-BD13A4701B8B@gmail.com> Abingdon Spares shows a RHD clutch rod. I wold be hesitant to reshape the one you have since they've already demonstrated a tendency to break. Marv J Sent from my iPad On Oct 15, 2011, at 2:22 AM, Douglas Ormrod wrote: > Hi T people > > My shiny new Moss clutch rod arrived today so I off I went to fit it this > evening. After a neck wrenching hour or so on my back I have discovered it > don't fit either way up - will not line up with the pivot. Comparing it with > my broken one (which was a new Moss one 7 or 8 years ago) I find the new one > looks like a mirror image of the old one and bends the opposite way. > > So I am thinking their must be a LHD and RHD one, although Moss only list one > for this part. My car is RHD. I think that with the application of a little > heat around the area of the bend nearest the pedal and can make it the right > shape. But thought I would check first that there is a difference between the > shape of the rod on the LHD and RHD cars. Can anyone enlighten me? > > Cheers > > Douglas > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/britcrs at gmail.com From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz Sat Oct 15 15:12:30 2011 From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:12:30 +0000 Subject: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations In-Reply-To: <8F26EC1F-7EFA-4D1B-B3A8-379EDF2079CD@earthlink.net> References: <8F26EC1F-7EFA-4D1B-B3A8-379EDF2079CD@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hi John I got it through Moss USA via Bob Ford at britek. I am pretty sure I got the original one through Moss US as well. I don't remember dealing with Moss UK. Although I did get a few bits and pieces from Brown and Gammon so perhaps I got it from them. Still debating with myself whether to re profile it - it cost $36 to buy but $51 to post! And I am keen to get back on the road. Cheers Douglas -----Original Message----- From: John Seim [mailto:kingseim at earthlink.net] Sent: Sunday, 16 October 2011 1:46 a.m. To: Douglas Ormrod Subject: Re: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations Doug, you may be right. It could be reversed. Originally, the clutch rod had a threaded yoke at the pedal end. If there was a difference between LHD and RHD, it would not matter with this production, as there was a lock nut on the rod, next to the threaded yoke. It was changed with aftermarket production to being a welded yoke. It is possible that the supplier to Moss Motors reversed the orientation when welding the latest batch of rods. I have not ordered a new clutch rod, part no. 451-220, in awhile. Did you get this rod from Moss Motors USA, or Moss UK? Moss USA might just have the LHD version, if there is a difference, while Moss UK might have a RHD version. John Seim Irvine, CA On Oct 15, 2011, at 2:22 AM, Douglas Ormrod wrote: > Hi T people > > My shiny new Moss clutch rod arrived today so I off I went to fit it > this evening. After a neck wrenching hour or so on my back I have > discovered it don't fit either way up - will not line up with the > pivot. > Comparing it with > my broken one (which was a new Moss one 7 or 8 years ago) I find the > new one looks like a mirror image of the old one and bends the > opposite way. > > So I am thinking their must be a LHD and RHD one, although Moss only > list one for this part. My car is RHD. I think that with the > application of a little heat around the area of the bend nearest the > pedal and can make it the right shape. But thought I would check first > that there is a difference between the shape of the rod on the LHD and > RHD cars. Can anyone enlighten me? > > Cheers > > Douglas > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ > kingseim at earthlink.net From anngene at bellsouth.net Sat Oct 15 16:44:39 2011 From: anngene at bellsouth.net (anngene at bellsouth.net) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 17:44:39 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations In-Reply-To: References: <8F26EC1F-7EFA-4D1B-B3A8-379EDF2079CD@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <2F0A51DA83694C4FBFA915D130AEB940@Home> Heat, bend and let it cool. Shouldn't break. Gene Gillam Saucier, MS -------------------------------------------------- From: "Douglas Ormrod" Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 4:12 PM To: "'John Seim'" Cc: Subject: Re: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations > Hi John > > I got it through Moss USA via Bob Ford at britek. I am pretty sure I got > the > original one through Moss US as well. I don't remember dealing with Moss > UK. > Although I did get a few bits and pieces from Brown and Gammon so perhaps > I > got it from them. > > Still debating with myself whether to re profile it - it cost $36 to buy > but > $51 to post! And I am keen to get back on the road. > > Cheers > > Douglas > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Seim [mailto:kingseim at earthlink.net] > Sent: Sunday, 16 October 2011 1:46 a.m. > To: Douglas Ormrod > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations > > Doug, you may be right. It could be reversed. > Originally, the clutch rod had a threaded yoke at the pedal end. > If there was a difference between LHD and RHD, it would not matter with > this > production, as there was a lock nut on the rod, next to the threaded yoke. > It was changed with aftermarket production to being a welded yoke. It is > possible that the supplier to Moss Motors reversed the orientation when > welding the latest batch of rods. > I have not ordered a new clutch rod, part no. 451-220, in awhile. Did you > get > this rod from Moss Motors USA, or Moss UK? > Moss USA might just have the LHD version, if there is a difference, while > Moss > UK might have a RHD version. > > John Seim > Irvine, CA > > On Oct 15, 2011, at 2:22 AM, Douglas Ormrod wrote: > >> Hi T people >> >> My shiny new Moss clutch rod arrived today so I off I went to fit it >> this evening. After a neck wrenching hour or so on my back I have >> discovered it don't fit either way up - will not line up with the >> pivot. >> Comparing it with >> my broken one (which was a new Moss one 7 or 8 years ago) I find the >> new one looks like a mirror image of the old one and bends the >> opposite way. >> >> So I am thinking their must be a LHD and RHD one, although Moss only >> list one for this part. My car is RHD. I think that with the >> application of a little heat around the area of the bend nearest the >> pedal and can make it the right shape. But thought I would check first >> that there is a difference between the shape of the rod on the LHD and >> RHD cars. Can anyone enlighten me? >> >> Cheers >> >> Douglas >> ______________________________________________ >> >> Mg-t at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ >> kingseim at earthlink.net > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/anngene at bellsouth.net From carlmgtc at hotmail.com Sat Oct 15 18:10:57 2011 From: carlmgtc at hotmail.com (Carl Fritz) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:10:57 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations In-Reply-To: References: , <8F26EC1F-7EFA-4D1B-B3A8-379EDF2079CD@earthlink.net>, Message-ID: As a TC owner, I have mercifully been spared having to deal with the TD's "improved " rod-operated clutch linkage. However, I seem to recall that the early TDs had a short length of multi-strand flexible cable somewhere in the clutch linkage system. Again as I recall it, this worked quite well, was easy to adjust, and rarely broke (even then gave plenty of warning, and could be replaced on the roadside with a couple feet of baling wire, wire rope/cable or equivalent) Maybe you TD folks should look into a bit of retrograde engineering. Regards, Carl Fritz TC 6756 VA 2009 Saloon Gainesville, Florida > From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz > To: kingseim at earthlink.net > Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:12:30 +0000 > CC: mg-t at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations > > Hi John > > I got it through Moss USA via Bob Ford at britek. I am pretty sure I got the > original one through Moss US as well. I don't remember dealing with Moss UK. > Although I did get a few bits and pieces from Brown and Gammon so perhaps I > got it from them. > > Still debating with myself whether to re profile it - it cost $36 to buy but > $51 to post! And I am keen to get back on the road. > > Cheers > > Douglas > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Seim [mailto:kingseim at earthlink.net] > Sent: Sunday, 16 October 2011 1:46 a.m. > To: Douglas Ormrod > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] clutch rod frustrations > > Doug, you may be right. It could be reversed. > Originally, the clutch rod had a threaded yoke at the pedal end. > If there was a difference between LHD and RHD, it would not matter with this > production, as there was a lock nut on the rod, next to the threaded yoke. > It was changed with aftermarket production to being a welded yoke. It is > possible that the supplier to Moss Motors reversed the orientation when > welding the latest batch of rods. > I have not ordered a new clutch rod, part no. 451-220, in awhile. Did you get > this rod from Moss Motors USA, or Moss UK? > Moss USA might just have the LHD version, if there is a difference, while Moss > UK might have a RHD version. > > John Seim > Irvine, CA > > On Oct 15, 2011, at 2:22 AM, Douglas Ormrod wrote: > > > Hi T people > > > > My shiny new Moss clutch rod arrived today so I off I went to fit it > > this evening. After a neck wrenching hour or so on my back I have > > discovered it don't fit either way up - will not line up with the > > pivot. > > Comparing it with > > my broken one (which was a new Moss one 7 or 8 years ago) I find the > > new one looks like a mirror image of the old one and bends the > > opposite way. > > > > So I am thinking their must be a LHD and RHD one, although Moss only > > list one for this part. My car is RHD. I think that with the > > application of a little heat around the area of the bend nearest the > > pedal and can make it the right shape. But thought I would check first > > that there is a difference between the shape of the rod on the LHD and > > RHD cars. Can anyone enlighten me? > > > > Cheers > > > > Douglas > > ______________________________________________ > > > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ > > kingseim at earthlink.net > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/carlmgtc at hotmail.com From andrewk962 at yahoo.com Sat Oct 15 19:07:44 2011 From: andrewk962 at yahoo.com (Andrew Kirk) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 18:07:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mg-t] T series clutch rod Message-ID: <1318727264.81663.YahooMailClassic@web112418.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi All: When My LHD TF clutch rod broke I went down to the dealer BMC motors ( this was in the 50s or early 60s and bought another one. The sails guy explained that they only had rods for RHD TFs but to get the end cot off and rotated 180 degrees and welded in that position. To this day it has worked fine.Andy Work is the curse of the biking classes!! Andrew J. Kirk andrewk962 at yahoo.com cell 650-224-3527 From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz Sat Oct 15 19:25:53 2011 From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 01:25:53 +0000 Subject: [Mg-t] more clutch woes Message-ID: OK, I heated and reshaped my LHD clutch rod and it worked out fine and fitted nicely. However, even with it fully wound up to the max adjustment the clutch does not disengage properly. I can just get it into gear but it creeps. My old rod was pretty well fully adjusted to the max before it broke. I did make a new hole on the pivot, but using that hole it would not even get close to disengaging. My peal box had a hole for the clutch stop but none was fitted. So from what Dave said it could be that I had excessive clutch travel which has worn out my clutch release bearing. Is that the most likely scenario? The clutch was a reconditioned unit 7500 miles ago and the release bearing was new. Am I just looking at replacing the release bearing or is there likely to be other damage? At least I will now have the incentive to fix my gearbox which has been sometimes jumping out of third on overun for the last 5 years - been putting it off! Cheers Douglas From redscirocco at hotmail.com Sat Oct 15 21:44:42 2011 From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 23:44:42 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] T series clutch rod In-Reply-To: <1318727264.81663.YahooMailClassic@web112418.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1318727264.81663.YahooMailClassic@web112418.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Interesting, Andrew. That would probably explain the less-than-professional-looking weld on the clutch rod that I replaced on my TF a couple of years ago. It wasn't a bad weld, just didn't look like it came that way factory. I'm pretty sure it was a replacement. I replaced it with a Moss clutch rod & a Cobalt adjustable clutch link rod. Worked well for me. -Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT 1954 MG TF > Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 18:07:44 -0700 > From: andrewk962 at yahoo.com > To: mg-t at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mg-t] T series clutch rod > > Hi All: When My LHD TF clutch rod broke I went down to the dealer BMC motors > ( this was in the 50s or early 60s and bought another one. The sails guy > explained that they only had rods for RHD TFs but to get the end cot off and > rotated 180 degrees and welded in that position. To this day it has worked > fine.Andy > > Work is the curse of the biking classes!! > > Andrew J. Kirk > > andrewk962 at yahoo.com > > cell 650-224-3527 > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com From kingseim at earthlink.net Sat Oct 15 23:37:03 2011 From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 22:37:03 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] more clutch woes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike O'Connor at O'Connor Classic Automobiles started lengthening the clutch link rod some years ago. He also drilled another hole in the clutch lever, that hangs from the engine. I did some investigating, and this is what I found. The original clutch rods are threaded down the rod 1/4" more, than the replacement rods are. The new clutch link rods are shorter by 1/8", than original. 12 7/8" vs. 13". Flywheel surfacing, clutch pressure plate resurfacing, can also remove some thickness from the equation, just not as much as the other items. So, with new parts installed, you are at least 3/16" shorter in adjustment lengths, than with OEM parts. Add wear in lever holes, and other wear, and you can be left with a car that you cannot fully disengage the clutch, although you have installed new parts. Moss Motors now sells an adjustable length clutch link rod. 190-422. I set them to 13 1/2" center to center of the clevis pin holes. John Seim Irvine, CA On Oct 15, 2011, at 6:25 PM, Douglas Ormrod wrote: > OK, I heated and reshaped my LHD clutch rod and it worked out fine > and fitted > nicely. However, even with it fully wound up to the max adjustment > the clutch > does not disengage properly. I can just get it into gear but it > creeps. My old > rod was pretty well fully adjusted to the max before it broke. > > I did make a new hole on the pivot, but using that hole it would > not even get > close to disengaging. > > My peal box had a hole for the clutch stop but none was fitted. So > from what > Dave said it could be that I had excessive clutch travel which has > worn out my > clutch release bearing. Is that the most likely scenario? The > clutch was a > reconditioned unit 7500 miles ago and the release bearing was new. > Am I just > looking at replacing the release bearing or is there likely to be > other > damage? > > At least I will now have the incentive to fix my gearbox which has > been > sometimes jumping out of third on overun for the last 5 years - > been putting > it off! > > Cheers > > Douglas > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ > kingseim at earthlink.net From kingseim at earthlink.net Thu Oct 20 08:19:13 2011 From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 07:19:13 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] Looking for Terry Baulch, Warwickshire, UK Message-ID: If anyone has current contact information for Terry Baulch, in Warwichshire, UK please contact me off list. Thanks, John Seim From emgeeguy at aol.com Wed Oct 26 04:20:26 2011 From: emgeeguy at aol.com (emgeeguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 06:20:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mg-t] 6 Message-ID: <8CE61E0034E94FC-78C-603D6@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Hi! Read this post and you life will change to better! Good luck!. http://www.erebecca.com.tw/friends.page.php?wSubCategoryId=35a8 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Oct 26 10:49:29 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:49:29 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] 6 In-Reply-To: <8CE61E0034E94FC-78C-603D6@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE61E0034E94FC-78C-603D6@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4EA83A19.10303@justbrits.com> And yet ANOTHER dummy that stays with that POS aoler has been HIJACKED ! ! ! Ed PS: EVERYBODY, GET RID of POS aol ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Yahoo & gMail right behind ! From jvk52td at aol.com Wed Oct 26 11:31:19 2011 From: jvk52td at aol.com (jvk52td at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:31:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mg-t] 6 In-Reply-To: <8CE61E0034E94FC-78C-603D6@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE61E0034E94FC-78C-603D6@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE621C34F171F4-1FF0-5972B@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com> You can get Hi-Jacked with any ISP !!! -----Original Message----- From: emgeeguy To: mgsales ; mgstlnews ; mg-t ; mgtc48 ; mgtcmd ; mgtd52 ; mgtd53tom ; mgtrautoxr Sent: Wed, Oct 26, 2011 5:56 am Subject: Re: [Mg-t] 6 Hi! Read this post and you life will change to better! Good luck!. ttp://www.erebecca.com.tw/friends.page.php?wSubCategoryId=35a8 _____________________________________________ Mg-t at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $11.47 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/jvk52td at aol.com From Emgeeguy at aol.com Wed Oct 26 15:09:59 2011 From: Emgeeguy at aol.com (Emgeeguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 17:09:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mg-t] 6 Message-ID: <3bc37.1ec6ef3b.3bd9d127@aol.com> ....and you have something better?? Something that can't be hacked or hijacked???? L. In a message dated 10/26/2011 10:26:10 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, shop at justbrits.com writes: And yet ANOTHER dummy that stays with that POS aoler has been HIJACKED ! ! ! Ed PS: EVERYBODY, GET RID of POS aol ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Yahoo & gMail right behind ! ______________________________________________ Mg-t at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/emgeeguy at aol.com