From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  1 18:58:03 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 20:58:03 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] speedo gaskets
Message-ID: <54545B9B52964C60AD2C2C2188523BC9@ranteer.local>

is there someone who makes speedo gaskets?  both between the dash and inside
under the glass?

From taterry at aol.com  Tue Nov  1 20:29:50 2011
From: taterry at aol.com (taterry at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 23:29:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] speedo gaskets
In-Reply-To: <54545B9B52964C60AD2C2C2188523BC9@ranteer.local>
References: <54545B9B52964C60AD2C2C2188523BC9@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <8CE6726CFD2AC99-CD4-5D22A@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>

Try http://www.britcot.com/Index.html



-----Original Message-----
From: oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>; MGT <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 1, 2011 7:45 pm
Subject: [Mg-t] speedo gaskets


is there someone who makes speedo gaskets?  both between the dash and inside
nder the glass?
_____________________________________________
Mg-t at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $11.47
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/taterry at aol.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Nov  1 22:46:13 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 00:46:13 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] speedo gaskets
In-Reply-To: <8CE6726CFD2AC99-CD4-5D22A@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>
References: <54545B9B52964C60AD2C2C2188523BC9@ranteer.local>
	<8CE6726CFD2AC99-CD4-5D22A@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4EB0D925.2080402@justbrits.com>

EASIER than you even having to THINK/look-up Terry..............

<<   http://www.britcot.com/Index.html   >>

would have been for LAZY BONES 'oliver' to just LOOK at the bottom of EVERY
List Post for the line that says:

<quote>
Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
</quote>

Simply AMAZING how WELL they WORK [instead of US<G>  ].

Ed

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Wed Nov  2 05:01:13 2011
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 05:01:13 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] [mg-tabc] Vintage MG swap Meet!!!!!
In-Reply-To: <8CE66DE5515453B-86C-12D7D9@webmail-d183.sysops.aol.com>
References: <355541FA76784C8FB2B8E6A8F05F12CD@sdieng.local>
	<BA788CC7-E81B-4FA5-985C-4F55B6883229@earthlink.net>
	<8CE66DE5515453B-86C-12D7D9@webmail-d183.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7F8A5E56-9773-4DE4-B2B0-D6A81BDE4574@earthlink.net>

Vendors can arrive anytime, even stay overnight.
Officially, vendors can get in, and set up, after 5 a.m.
We will come around, and collect for the number of parking
spaces you occupy, after 8:00 a.m. The first parking space
is $20.00; each additional parking space is $10.00.

There is a cars for sale area. $20.00 for that space, unless
you want to keep the car next to where you are selling parts,
then it will count towards the total number of spaces occupied.

General admission is $5.00.

Thanks for asking,

John Seim

On Nov 1, 2011, at 11:51 AM, dougpulver at aol.com wrote:

> John,
>
> Do we need to register as a vendor before the event or just on the  
> day?
>
> Doug
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net>
> To: davea <davea at symbolicdisplays.com>
> Cc: mg-tabc <mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tue, Nov 1, 2011 11:16 am
> Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Vintage MG swap Meet!!!!!
>
> Yes, Dave, the Vintage MG Club of Southern California ALL MG
> Parts Exchange, is on for Sunday, November 20, 2011.
> College Park, College of Communications
> 2600 E. Nutwood Ave., Fullerton, CA
> 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
>
> On Nov 1, 2011, at 10:54 AM, Dave Abramson wrote:
>
> > Hello Group !!!!!!!
> >
> > Can anyone confirm the swap meet in Fullerton this month?????
> >
> > Is it the 20th???????????????
> >
> > Thanks & sorry to bomb the list!!!!!
> >
> >
> > Dave
> > MGA, MGB, MGB-GT, MG-M-Type, MG Midget
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mg-tabc/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
>     Individual Email | Traditional
>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
>     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mg-tabc/join
>     (Yahoo! ID required)
>
> <*> To change settings via email:
>     mg-tabc-digest at yahoogroups.com
>     mg-tabc-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>     mg-tabc-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Nov  2 21:15:51 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 23:15:51 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] So you want to ship your car..............
Message-ID: <4EB21577.1060303@justbrits.com>

CHEAPLY ? ! ? ! ? ! ?

********************************************************************
How Not to UN-load your sports car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlqsUQIoV3s&feature=related
*********************************************************************

Wanna RE-think that "idea" ? ! ?

Anon

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov  4 12:56:54 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 14:56:54 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTD listed in dallas
Message-ID: <6EE3C7C93C7E46DC8D1B2DF08420940E@ranteer.local>

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/2685186112.html

From rolds at plausa.com  Sat Nov  5 04:24:44 2011
From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 11:24:44 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light
Message-ID: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E54D1AE268@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>

Hello Everyone,

I'm looking for a little help or advice.

I purchased from Moss a while back one of their Vintique Inc LED 3rd Brake
lamp assemblies (116-115). Last week end I finally got around to installing it
on my TR6.  Before installing it I tested it and all the LEDs worked fine.
After installing it only two of the LEDs now light up.  I haven't too closely
at the unit yet.

Anyone else had this experience or suggestions.


Ron Olds

From simbafish at comcast.net  Sat Nov  5 17:28:56 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 20:28:56 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] SU Low Pressure Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <CADB4D08.4FBB%simbafish@comcast.net>

I was inspecting/adjust the two SU fuel pumps on my 1951 MG TD MKII. Both
function, but they are not built the same and I was wondering if this could
be a design change or a problem later on.

One pump does not have any armature guide rollers. The workshop manual calls
for 11 single rollers but in lieu of the single ones, my other pump has 5
double rollers, sort of looking like 3O-O2. Must be a design change. My
question, are rollers necessary/important? The six bolts that marry the
whole assembly together should align the diaphragm anyway . . . Or am I just
assuming too much?

I also noticed that that the diaphragm of the same pump did not have a
plastic sheet barrier between the rubber diaphragm and the fuel like the
other pump. Is this plastic necessary? What9s its purpose - to keep fuel
away from possible leaks to the electrical? Without the plastic, the rubber
diaphragm would be exposed to fuel. Perhaps the rubber would deteriorate?
However, the diaphragm looks brand new so perhaps it comes now without the
plastic. Anyone have any knowledge about this?

Is it possible that the lack of guide rollers and plastic barrier is a later
design change?

Stu Keen
1951 MG TD MKII

From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz  Sat Nov  5 18:43:51 2011
From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 01:43:51 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] clutch fixed
Message-ID: <D7243AD61D83A24BAAC492216B6A9A8B04296DCA@CORTEX.neuro.local>

Just  following up on my clutch problems which followed on from the bottom
clutch rod breakage, and the fact that the clutch would not disengage with the
new bottom rod fitted.

 I was contemplating pulling the gearbox thinking the release bearing was
worn, but as wiser men pointed out lengthening the top rod would likely fix
the problem - and it did. For $25 my local engineer made it adjustable. As
also suggested I put in the missing clutch stop in the pedal box. A surplus
1/4" drive socket drilled out to take a 1/4 bolt did the job nicely. So just
in time for summer. Of course I still have the problem of sometimes jumping
out of third gear - a job for next winter. But the difference in gear changing
is amazing - not sure how I managed for the last 5 years - never having owned
a TD before I thought they were all a challenge in the clutch department!

And of course we now all know that there a LHD and RHD top clutch rods!

Thanks as always for your help.

Best wishes

Douglas
-----Original Message-----
From: John Seim [mailto:kingseim at earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, 16 October 2011 6:37 p.m.
To: Douglas Ormrod
Cc: MG-T list
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] more clutch woes

Mike O'Connor at O'Connor Classic Automobiles started lengthening the clutch
link rod some years ago. He also drilled another hole in the clutch lever,
that hangs from the engine.
I did some investigating, and this is what I found.
The original clutch rods are threaded down the rod 1/4" more, than the
replacement rods are.
The new clutch link rods are shorter by 1/8", than original. 12 7/8"
vs. 13".
Flywheel surfacing, clutch pressure plate resurfacing, can also remove some
thickness from the equation, just not as much as the other items.
So, with new parts installed, you are at least 3/16" shorter in adjustment
lengths, than with OEM parts. Add wear in lever holes, and other wear, and you
can be left with a car that you cannot fully disengage the clutch, although
you have installed new parts.
Moss Motors now sells an adjustable length clutch link rod. 190-422.
I set them
to 13 1/2" center to center of the clevis pin holes.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Oct 15, 2011, at 6:25 PM, Douglas Ormrod wrote:

> OK, I heated and reshaped my LHD clutch rod and it worked out fine
> and fitted
> nicely. However, even with it fully wound up to the max adjustment
> the clutch
> does not disengage properly. I can just get it into gear but it
> creeps. My old
> rod was pretty well fully adjusted to the max before it broke.
>
> I did make a new hole on the pivot, but using that hole it would
> not even get
> close to disengaging.
>
> My peal box had a hole for the clutch stop but none was fitted. So
> from what
> Dave said it could be that I had excessive clutch travel which has
> worn out my
> clutch release bearing. Is that the most likely scenario? The
> clutch was a
> reconditioned unit 7500 miles ago and the release bearing was new.
> Am I just
> looking at replacing the  release bearing or is there likely to be
> other
> damage?
>
> At least I will now have the incentive to fix my gearbox which has
> been
> sometimes  jumping out of third on overun for the last 5 years -
> been putting
> it off!
>
> Cheers
>
> Douglas
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/
> kingseim at earthlink.net

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Sat Nov  5 20:23:52 2011
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 20:23:52 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] SU Low Pressure Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CADB4D08.4FBB%simbafish@comcast.net>
References: <CADB4D08.4FBB%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4EB5FDC8.90908@sinclair.net>

Stu,

You have two pumps that were made several decades apart.  The pump with 
the brass rollers was a very early design.  Later pumps came with a four 
lobe plastic armature guide with the lobes attached together such that 
is resembled a square.  Later still (in 1985) they started using the 5 
figure eight guides.

> My question, are rollers necessary/important? The six bolts that marry the whole assembly together should align the diaphragm anyway . . . Or am I just assuming too much?

Yes, you are assuming too much.  The holes in the periphery of the 
diaphragm are clearance holes for 2BA screws rather than alignment holes 
and as such will not hole the diaphragm, or more important the armature 
of the diaphragm assembly perfectly centered in the coil housing.  
Unless the armature is perfectly aligned, it can start hitting against 
the core piece in the coil.  If you look at the coil core, you will see 
that it projects beyond the bottom of the core and there is a 
corresponding relieved area in the center of the armature on the 
diaphragm.  If the edge of the relieved area on the armature is 
misaligned it will start hitting on the outside edge of the coil core, 
with will cause the pump to become unstable and eventually quit 
pumping.  The armature guide pieces, whether the original brass rollers 
or the newer figure eight plastic pieces, keep the diaphragm perfectly 
centered until the coil housing/diaphragm assembly is attached to the 
pump body are screwed together.  The guide piece could be removed after 
the pump is completely assembled, except they haven't figured out how to 
do that once the pump is assembled

As far as the plastic covered diaphragm vs. the diaphragms without the 
plastic cover - the plastic cover was an attempt to keep the fuel from 
coming in contact with the diaphragm material.  This was originally 
necessary because the diaphragm would not withstand the newer formulated 
fuels.  The diaphragms on the newer diaphragms (again starting around 
1985) have a different diaphragm material that is resistant to the fuels 
of today.  The older sandwich style diaphragms with the plastic cover 
also had two layers of the elastometer material and over time the two 
layers would fuse together, causing the diaphragm to become stiff to the 
point that the pump wouldn't operate properly.

Another difference in the two pumps that you may not have noticed is the 
diameter of the cores in the two coils.  The early pump has a core that 
is about 1/2" in diameter, while the later pump has a core diameter of 
nearly 3/4".  Looking at the armature of each diaphragm, the older one 
should be flat on the top up to the edge of the relieve area that fits 
over the projecting section of the core.  The late diaphragm should have 
a raised ring around the relieved area of the armature.  The result of 
this change is to produce a pump that pumps much faster than the earlier 
pumps, while putting out the original low pressure pumps.

I would advise against routinely disassembling the pumps to perform 
adjustments and cleaning of the points unless there are other problems 
being experienced.  There are just too many things that can go wrong 
when reassembling the pumps, and it is not necessary.  Among other 
things, the procedure for adjusting the points has changed with the 
advent of the newer points assembly that have adjustment tangs on them.  
If you want to e-mail me at SUfuelpumps at donobi.net, I can send you a 
procedure for cleaning the points that will work much better than just 
dragging a piece of sand paper between them and an adjustment procedure 
to use with the newer points assembly.

Finally, if you are experiencing repeated problems with you fuel pump, 
it is perhaps time to contact me about restoring your pump and 
converting it to solid state.

Cheers,
Dave

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Sun Nov  6 07:59:24 2011
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 08:59:24 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] SU Low Pressure Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CADB4D08.4FBB%simbafish@comcast.net>
References: <CADB4D08.4FBB%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <073401cc9c94$ac56e310$0504a930$@com>

Stu,

Originally, the SU pump used 11 brass rollers to center the diaphragm. Later
pumps used a variety 
Of methods including the 5 double nylon spacers and 4 interconnected nylon
spaces. The use of these is important to keep the diaphragm centered. Just
the six body screws won't be enough. I rebuild a lot of pumps and find that
the brass rollers are the best and will always throw away the nylon spacers
if I have enough brass ones to do the job.

The clear mylar layer on the diaphragm is there in case the diaphragm should
begin to leak. There are several different designs of diaphragms both with
and without the mylar layer. They will all function the same way so don't
worry about which you use.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer
-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stuart Keen
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 7:29 PM
To: MG
Subject: [Mg-t] SU Low Pressure Fuel Pump

I was inspecting/adjust the two SU fuel pumps on my 1951 MG TD MKII. Both
function, but they are not built the same and I was wondering if this could
be a design change or a problem later on.

One pump does not have any armature guide rollers. The workshop manual calls
for 11 single rollers but in lieu of the single ones, my other pump has 5
double rollers, sort of looking like 3O-O2. Must be a design change. My
question, are rollers necessary/important? The six bolts that marry the
whole assembly together should align the diaphragm anyway . . . Or am I just
assuming too much?

I also noticed that that the diaphragm of the same pump did not have a
plastic sheet barrier between the rubber diaphragm and the fuel like the
other pump. Is this plastic necessary? What9s its purpose - to keep fuel
away from possible leaks to the electrical? Without the plastic, the rubber
diaphragm would be exposed to fuel. Perhaps the rubber would deteriorate?
However, the diaphragm looks brand new so perhaps it comes now without the
plastic. Anyone have any knowledge about this?

Is it possible that the lack of guide rollers and plastic barrier is a later
design change?

Stu Keen
1951 MG TD MKII
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com

From rolds at plausa.com  Sun Nov  6 14:36:32 2011
From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 21:36:32 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light
In-Reply-To: <302BA3F9DD624C5890C391C17270D16E@EntCentPC>
References: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E54D1AE268@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
	<302BA3F9DD624C5890C391C17270D16E@EntCentPC>
Message-ID: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E54D1AE558@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>

Jack,

Thanks for the information.

The situation is getting stranger.  Today I looked at it briefly  and now all
the lights are working except the two that were working (but aren't now).  the
two that are not working are the 7th and 8th from one end.

Ron Olds

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Brooks
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 12:27 AM
To: 'Triumphs'; mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net;
shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light

Ron,

Using the lamp in a TR6's electrical system will provide more robust test than
testing off the car, so the voltage variances in the TR6 may have caused an
issue.  A lot of lower line LED lamps are built with too few resistors
controlling the amperage to the individual LEDs and fail quickly, or perhaps
there is a misfabrication.  If you can/want to open it up and verify the
circuitry is correct, here is a calculator I have used to design LED circuits.
If the resistance is off, LED's can fail quickly.

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

Personally, I'd call Moss up and talk with tech services before I opened it up
and potentially void a warrantee.  They may have already seen a failure
pattern with this item and can take care of you quickly.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Olds
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 4:25 AM
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net); mgs at autox.team.net;
mg-t at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Vintique Inc 3rd Brake Light

Hello Everyone,

I'm looking for a little help or advice.

I purchased from Moss a while back one of their Vintique Inc LED 3rd Brake
lamp assemblies (116-115). Last week end I finally got around to installing it
on my TR6.  Before installing it I tested it and all the LEDs worked fine.
After installing it only two of the LEDs now light up.  I haven't too closely
at the unit yet.

Anyone else had this experience or suggestions.


Ron Olds

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov  6 18:30:15 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:30:15 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] VOTE for MGTD
Message-ID: <D235A9FDCEBB4A8F8650F6B467ABD19B@ranteer.local>

hello fellow MG T'ers

one of our own (not me) is up for an award, and needs our support.

please go and vote!!!!!

http://www.goldeagle.com/event_marketing/coolridesonline.aspx

You can vote once everyday from each computer through the month of November.

From gunnellj at tds.net  Sun Nov  6 19:23:52 2011
From: gunnellj at tds.net (gunnellj tds.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 20:23:52 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Posting
Message-ID: <CAL+NFWcN=-=6imLo_4pBPDo+Qwm3dshExEkqUXvX9Pi9SXpNFA@mail.gmail.com>

Please tell me how to post a message as I am not having lots of luck

-- 
"Gunner"

John Gunnell
PO Box 87
Iola, WI 54945
Ph: 715 445 4262
Cell: 715 281 5925

Please visit Gunner's Great Garage
Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - and Art Gallery
at the corner of Highway 110 and E6110 Fuhs Road in Manawa, WI
Shop: 920-596-2273
www.gunnersgreatgarage.com



Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com

From feold3 at mac.com  Mon Nov  7 04:51:17 2011
From: feold3 at mac.com (Chip Old)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 06:51:17 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Posting
In-Reply-To: <CAL+NFWcN=-=6imLo_4pBPDo+Qwm3dshExEkqUXvX9Pi9SXpNFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL+NFWcN=-=6imLo_4pBPDo+Qwm3dshExEkqUXvX9Pi9SXpNFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6D80B137-9865-4992-8F1A-8B8F81E21009@mac.com>

John, you *did* post a message. Otherwise we wouldn't have seen your request for info on how to post a message. Is there something I'm missing here?

--  
Chip Old <feold3 at mac.com>
Cub Hill, MD, US
Via iPhone Mail


On Nov 6, 2011, at 9:23 PM, "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj at tds.net> wrote:

> Please tell me how to post a message as I am not having lots of luck
> 
> -- 
> "Gunner"
> 
> John Gunnell
> PO Box 87
> Iola, WI 54945
> Ph: 715 445 4262
> Cell: 715 281 5925

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Nov  7 05:57:51 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 06:57:51 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Posting
In-Reply-To: <6D80B137-9865-4992-8F1A-8B8F81E21009@mac.com>
References: <CAL+NFWcN=-=6imLo_4pBPDo+Qwm3dshExEkqUXvX9Pi9SXpNFA@mail.gmail.com>
	<6D80B137-9865-4992-8F1A-8B8F81E21009@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4EB7D5CF.9070003@justbrits.com>

<< Is there something I'm missing here? >>

Could be, Chip <G> !!

Gunner there are only a few basic things to remember for "posting".

1st]    Mail must be addressed to mg-t at autox.team.net.  Most likely 
you ALSO have
           mg-t-request at autox &    mg-t-bounce with an outside chance 
of mg-t-owner@
           autox thrown in <G> !!!!   ONLY use 
mg-t at autox.................. !

2nd]  You canNOT "attach" or "embed" anything to a mail you wish to post.

3rd]  Mail MUST be sent as "plain-text" and NOT as "HTML".

4th]  For best results, always make MG-T at ............ first [or "To:"] 
when sending something
          you want to Post to The List AND to John Doe [NON-List Member].

5th]  "Bcc's:" are a NO-NO in any List Mail.

HTHs !!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com

PS:  And you DID keep your "Welcome to the List" mail,  right ?!?

From feold3 at mac.com  Mon Nov  7 06:50:25 2011
From: feold3 at mac.com (Chip Old)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 08:50:25 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Posting
In-Reply-To: <CAL+NFWcS2US6c+VbVssNVtHhk4Jn8c5JTBtPkBK8wte-2XU4fw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL+NFWcN=-=6imLo_4pBPDo+Qwm3dshExEkqUXvX9Pi9SXpNFA@mail.gmail.com>
	<6D80B137-9865-4992-8F1A-8B8F81E21009@mac.com>
	<CAL+NFWcS2US6c+VbVssNVtHhk4Jn8c5JTBtPkBK8wte-2XU4fw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9F69E803-E769-4BA8-878C-B9A3CA21DD92@mac.com>

On Mon 07 Nov 2011 at 07:55 AM EST, gunnellj tds.net <gunnellj at tds.net> wrote to Chip Old :

> Chip
>  
>     OK. Her's what I wanted to ask.
>  
>    I have a 1950 TD that I am redoing as a hot rod. I bought it for $500. On this car the brake drums were held on with short, fat screws that had a taper at the slotted end. The car was so rusty that these screws got more or less ruined. In fact, on one side I drilled them out and the threads would need repair.
>  
>    My 1952 TD has a different style of brake drums without the screws. Are the two types of drums interchangeable? Or more correctly, can the later style be used on the earlier car?
>  
>    Also having trouble getting one of the "castle nuts" off the hub. Are they both normal threads or does one side have a reverse thread?
>  
> John Gunnell
> Iola, WI


John,

You really should have posted that to the group, not directly to me. There are lots of group members who know the finer points of the TD a lot better than I do. I'm replying to the group so others can pitch in.

If I remember correctly (which could be a problem):

Early TD brake drums are separate from the hubs. The countersunk machine screws are to make sure the drum is centered on the hub, and to hold the drum and hub together when the lug nuts are removed. The ends of the countersunk screws are peened over after assembly, to prevent disassembly. According to the TD/TF Workshop Manual the drum and hub are not meant to be disassembled.

Later TDs have one-piece hubs and drums.

As far as I know the two types are interchangeable, but you should ask the TD experts in the group to make sure.

If you're talking about the front hubs, the right-hand side has a right-handed thread, the left-hand side has a left-handed thread.

-- 
Chip Old <feold3 at mac.com>
Cub Hill, Maryland, US
1948 M.G. TC TC6710  XPAG7430

From gunnellj at tds.net  Mon Nov  7 07:37:25 2011
From: gunnellj at tds.net (gunnellj tds.net)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:37:25 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Shop Op
Message-ID: <CAL+NFWe_5AarkPez9uGAW1ycy3U_vZNZAKyYohuq9xn4wK429Q@mail.gmail.com>

There is a business around here called Shane's Classic Sports Cars or
Shane's British Classics that works on smaller British and italian cars in
a little shop. Last year he did a tub-off cosmetic restoration on a 1953 MG
TD MKII and the car came out a show winer. I believe the total tab was
somewhere in the $16K range. His shop rate is in the $40-$45 plus parts
range.

Anyway, this year he can't catch a job for the winter and he's looking
for a long-term job to keep him busy beyond the repairs that he does on a
regular basis. His name is Shane Hanke and he's in Waupaca, Wis. His phone
is 715 281 5589.

This might be a good "shop op" for a T-Series person who needs some work
done for the next show season.

-- 
"Gunner"

John Gunnell
PO Box 87
Iola, WI 54945
Ph: 715 445 4262
Cell: 715 281 5925

Please visit Gunner's Great Garage
Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - and Art Gallery
at the corner of Highway 110 and E6110 Fuhs Road in Manawa, WI
Shop: 920-596-2273
www.gunnersgreatgarage.com



Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com

From Emgeeguy at aol.com  Mon Nov  7 09:53:37 2011
From: Emgeeguy at aol.com (Emgeeguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:53:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Mg-t] VOTE for MGTD
Message-ID: <186e1.65250557.3be96711@aol.com>

It would be nice if you identify yourself. I'm not going to click on any  
link until I know what it is.
Larry Long
 
 
In a message dated 11/6/2011 6:11:37 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

hello  fellow MG T'ers

one of our own (not me) is up for an award, and needs  our support.

please go and  vote!!!!!

http://www.goldeagle.com/event_marketing/coolridesonline.aspx

You  can vote once everyday from each computer through the month of  
November.
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/emgeeguy at aol.com

From anngene at bellsouth.net  Mon Nov  7 10:47:33 2011
From: anngene at bellsouth.net (anngene at bellsouth.net)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:47:33 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] VOTE for MGTD
In-Reply-To: <186e1.65250557.3be96711@aol.com>
References: <186e1.65250557.3be96711@aol.com>
Message-ID: <452325A75EA943EF99CFB9BD666739CE@Home>

Larry Long wrote:
"It would be nice if you identify yourself. I'm not going to click on any
link until I know what it is."


Larry,
It's legit...also posted in the UK MG BBS.  It's a TD going up against some 
American iron...has a pretty good lead now but can always use more votes.
Gene Gillam
Saucier, MS

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Mon Nov  7 13:10:52 2011
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John F. Quilter)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 12:10:52 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Posting
References: <CAL+NFWcN=-=6imLo_4pBPDo+Qwm3dshExEkqUXvX9Pi9SXpNFA@mail.gmail.com><6D80B137-9865-4992-8F1A-8B8F81E21009@mac.com><CAL+NFWcS2US6c+VbVssNVtHhk4Jn8c5JTBtPkBK8wte-2XU4fw@mail.gmail.com>
	<9F69E803-E769-4BA8-878C-B9A3CA21DD92@mac.com>
Message-ID: <D7FE1BE147544BBD9F70659C60AD68D6@JQLT070909>

The screws holding the brake drums on sound like what was used on a Morris 
Minor or Bug Eye Sprite and on the earlier MGA.   The Morris and Sprite had 
7 inch drums front and rear so are much smaller than the ones on a TD, but 
the MGA ones were larger.  Could the car you are working on have been 
converted to MGA brakes?  On all these the drums were separate from the 
hubs.  Moss' on line catalogue shows these screws but their illustration 
shows plain screws not Phillips like the originals and they come in two 
lengths, 1/2 and 5/8ths inches.

John Quilter
Eugene, Oregon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chip Old" <feold3 at mac.com>
To: "MGT" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 5:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Posting


> On Mon 07 Nov 2011 at 07:55 AM EST, gunnellj tds.net <gunnellj at tds.net> 
> wrote to Chip Old :
>
>> Chip
>>
>>     OK. Her's what I wanted to ask.
>>
>>    I have a 1950 TD that I am redoing as a hot rod. I bought it for $500. 
>> On this car the brake drums were held on with short, fat screws that had 
>> a taper at the slotted end. The car was so rusty that these screws got 
>> more or less ruined. In fact, on one side I drilled them out and the 
>> threads would need repair.
>>
>>    My 1952 TD has a different style of brake drums without the screws. 
>> Are the two types of drums interchangeable? Or more correctly, can the 
>> later style be used on the earlier car?
>>
>>    Also having trouble getting one of the "castle nuts" off the hub. Are 
>> they both normal threads or does one side have a reverse thread?
>>
>> John Gunnell
>> Iola, WI
>
>
> John,
>
> You really should have posted that to the group, not directly to me. There 
> are lots of group members who know the finer points of the TD a lot better 
> than I do. I'm replying to the group so others can pitch in.
>
> If I remember correctly (which could be a problem):
>
> Early TD brake drums are separate from the hubs. The countersunk machine 
> screws are to make sure the drum is centered on the hub, and to hold the 
> drum and hub together when the lug nuts are removed. The ends of the 
> countersunk screws are peened over after assembly, to prevent disassembly. 
> According to the TD/TF Workshop Manual the drum and hub are not meant to 
> be disassembled.
>
> Later TDs have one-piece hubs and drums.
>
> As far as I know the two types are interchangeable, but you should ask the 
> TD experts in the group to make sure.
>
> If you're talking about the front hubs, the right-hand side has a 
> right-handed thread, the left-hand side has a left-handed thread.
>
> -- 
> Chip Old <feold3 at mac.com>
> Cub Hill, Maryland, US
> 1948 M.G. TC TC6710  XPAG7430
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/jquilter at peoplepc.com

From pops502 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 14:00:02 2011
From: pops502 at sbcglobal.net (pops502 at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 13:00:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD tool box holes
Message-ID: <1320699602.63564.YahooMailClassic@web180315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

The MG TD that I am rebuilding has 4  holes on the back side of the tool
box on each side. They are  1/4 dia and 1 inch and 3.5 inches in from the
ends. They are centered up and down on the rear wall of the tool box and are 2
inches apart. Can someone tell me what they are for or did someone modify the
vehicle?
               Thanks
                 Al

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Tue Nov  8 12:39:14 2011
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 13:39:14 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] TD brake drums
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23.1320778828.25001.mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.23.1320778828.25001.mg-t@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <66918E7C-40D8-4C30-ACA3-B20D387AA841@duvallvideo.com>

John,  those screws should not be removed on the early TD drum.   If you do,
it will likely ruin the drum.  The inside of the drum has the threads
intentionally damaged to keep them from coming out.

They are not like MGA where you need to remove the screws.

See section H2.1 of the factory manual  where it describes the 2 drums and the
removal process.

Mike


>>
>>
>>
>>> Chip
>>>
>>>    OK. Her's what I wanted to ask.
>>>
>>>   I have a 1950 TD that I am redoing as a hot rod. I bought it for $500.
>>> On this car the brake drums were held on with short, fat screws that had
>>> a taper at the slotted end. The car was so rusty that these screws got
>>> more or less ruined. In fact, on one side I drilled them out and the
>>> threads would need repair.
>>>
>>>   My 1952 TD has a different style of brake drums without the screws.
>>> Are the two types of drums interchangeable? Or more correctly, can the
>>> later style be used on the earlier car?
>>>
>>>   Also having trouble getting one of the "castle nuts" off the hub. Are
>>> they both normal threads or does one side have a reverse thread?
>>>
>>> John Gunnell
>>> Iola, WI

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Nov  8 12:50:07 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 13:50:07 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?T_car_Maradyne_Heater?=
Message-ID: <20111108195001.1B60B1878C3@autox.team.net>

Hi guys,
For those of you who want warmth this wintry season, scroll down to see a link to a VERY effective heater. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Forwarded message -----

To: <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>, <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Nov  8 13:51:19 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:51:19 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] T car Maradyne Heater
In-Reply-To: <20111108195001.1B60B1878C3@autox.team.net>
References: <20111108195001.1B60B1878C3@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4EB99647.2080201@comcast.net>

That looks very similar to the heaters that were available as 
accessories 'back in the day'.  Most of them including the Smiths 
factory heaters in British cars of the later '50s and '60s were not very 
effective.  I wonder what the output of some of the accessory heaters 
for T series cars (both heat output and fan output) were and perhaps 
some of the later cars that had factory heaters like MGAs, early MGBs, 
Austin-Healeys, etc.
Does anyone have that information?  That way we can have something to 
compare this heater to.
Thanks.
Charlie

On 11/8/2011 2:50 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> Hi guys,
> For those of you who want warmth this wintry season, scroll down to see a link to a VERY effective heater.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Forwarded message -----
>
> To:<tr3a.60 at gmail.com>,<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Cc:<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater
> http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html
> ______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Nov  8 14:21:33 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:21:33 GMT
Subject: [Mg-t] T car Maradyne Heater
Message-ID: <20111108.162133.2504.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>

  This one appears similar to the Arnolt (of Arnolt-MG fame) heater.
  On 9/25/54 my dad had one of the Arnolt heaters installed by Trans-Sport
Motors, Richmond, VA, $49.95 including labor.
  The Arnolt heater does as well as can be expected with the 75 degree coolant
from the engine, if the air temp is warm enough for the thermostat to reach
75.  With top raised and side curtains in place it does warm the cabin and
does a fine job of keeping the ankles toasty.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] T car Maradyne Heater
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:51:19 -0500

That looks very similar to the heaters that were available as
accessories 'back in the day'.  Most of them including the Smiths
factory heaters in British cars of the later '50s and '60s were not very
effective.  I wonder what the output of some of the accessory heaters
for T series cars (both heat output and fan output) were and perhaps
some of the later cars that had factory heaters like MGAs, early MGBs,
Austin-Healeys, etc.
Does anyone have that information?  That way we can have something to
compare this heater to.
Thanks.
Charlie

On 11/8/2011 2:50 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> Hi guys,
> For those of you who want warmth this wintry season, scroll down to see a
link to a VERY effective heater.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Forwarded message -----
>
> To:<tr3a.60 at gmail.com>,<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Cc:<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater
> http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html
> ______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Nov  8 15:51:29 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 16:51:29 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?T_car_Maradyne_Heater?=
Message-ID: <20111108225127.5020318786F@autox.team.net>

Yep.  This one puts out more, but still roasts your kneecap so you still feel "vintage"!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] T car Maradyne Heater
Date: Tue, Nov 8, 2011 15:21


  This one appears similar to the Arnolt (of Arnolt-MG fame) heater.
  On 9/25/54 my dad had one of the Arnolt heaters installed by Trans-Sport
Motors, Richmond, VA, $49.95 including labor.
  The Arnolt heater does as well as can be expected with the 75 degree coolant
from the engine, if the air temp is warm enough for the thermostat to reach
75.  With top raised and side curtains in place it does warm the cabin and
does a fine job of keeping the ankles toasty.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] T car Maradyne Heater
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:51:19 -0500

That looks very similar to the heaters that were available as
accessories 'back in the day'.  Most of them including the Smiths
factory heaters in British cars of the later '50s and '60s were not very
effective.  I wonder what the output of some of the accessory heaters
for T series cars (both heat output and fan output) were and perhaps
some of the later cars that had factory heaters like MGAs, early MGBs,
Austin-Healeys, etc.
Does anyone have that information?  That way we can have something to
compare this heater to.
Thanks.
Charlie

On 11/8/2011 2:50 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> Hi guys,
> For those of you who want warmth this wintry season, scroll down to see a
link to a VERY effective heater.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Forwarded message -----
>
> To:<tr3a.60 at gmail.com>,<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Cc:<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater
> http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html
> ______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/spook01 at comcast.net

From scvc70 at epix.net  Tue Nov  8 20:22:14 2011
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 22:22:14 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD tool box holes
References: <1320699602.63564.YahooMailClassic@web180315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <127BC675E67D414EA0A25BC1C22EE570@valuedea617bbe>

No such holes in the toolbox of my car.

Sarah Carr
TD3942EXLU in PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pops502 at sbcglobal.net>
To: <Mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 4:00 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD tool box holes


> The MG TD that I am rebuilding has 4  holes on the back side of the tool
> box on each side. They are  1/4 dia and 1 inch and 3.5 inches in from the
> ends. They are centered up and down on the rear wall of the tool box and 
> are 2
> inches apart. Can someone tell me what they are for or did someone modify 
> the
> vehicle?
>               Thanks
>                 Al

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  8 20:45:22 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:45:22 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] T car Maradyne Heater
In-Reply-To: <20111108225127.5020318786F@autox.team.net>
References: <20111108225127.5020318786F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0D1E899FD73E403CAC9F03DCBC701CA6@ranteer.local>

like this:  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgtd/DSCN3707.JPG

>
>  This one appears similar to the Arnolt (of Arnolt-MG fame) heater.
>  On 9/25/54 my dad had one of the Arnolt heaters installed by Trans-Sport
> Motors, Richmond, VA, $49.95 including labor.
>  The Arnolt heater does as well as can be expected with the 75 degree 
> coolant
> from the engine, if the air temp is warm enough for the thermostat to 
> reach
> 75.  With top raised and side curtains in place it does warm the cabin and
> does a fine job of keeping the ankles toasty.
> Bob
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] T car Maradyne Heater
> Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:51:19 -0500
>
> That looks very similar to the heaters that were available as
> accessories 'back in the day'.  Most of them including the Smiths
> factory heaters in British cars of the later '50s and '60s were not very
> effective.  I wonder what the output of some of the accessory heaters
> for T series cars (both heat output and fan output) were and perhaps
> some of the later cars that had factory heaters like MGAs, early MGBs,
> Austin-Healeys, etc.
> Does anyone have that information?  That way we can have something to
> compare this heater to.
> Thanks.
> Charlie 

From taterry at aol.com  Sun Nov 13 19:38:32 2011
From: taterry at aol.com (taterry at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 21:38:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Mg-t] Don Tonks
Message-ID: <8CE708DA26FE706-AB8-49837@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com>

does any one know this gent?  He used to own an Arnolt-MG and other MGs as
well
Terry in Oakland

From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz  Mon Nov 14 13:05:04 2011
From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 20:05:04 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] Don Tonks
In-Reply-To: <8CE708DA26FE706-AB8-49837@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE708DA26FE706-AB8-49837@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D7243AD61D83A24BAAC492216B6A9A8B042C099F@CORTEX.neuro.local>

There is a long feature and pictures of his cars, including the Arnolt, in
this 2005 magazine:

http://www.britishmotoring.net/current_issue/2005_Summer.pdf

Cheers

Douglas



-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of taterry at aol.com
Sent: Monday, 14 November 2011 3:39 p.m.
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Don Tonks

does any one know this gent?  He used to own an Arnolt-MG and other MGs as
well Terry in Oakland ______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/douglas.ormrod at neurological.org.nz

From scvc70 at epix.net  Mon Nov 21 21:05:17 2011
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 23:05:17 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] new MG book
Message-ID: <EBE5DA9A1B9B4D4181F002328190DDDD@valuedea617bbe>

If you're looking for a gift for that special MG person on your list, check
this out:

They Started in MGs:  Profiles of Sports Car Racers of the 1950s, by Carl
Goodwin.  Each of the 80 drivers--from Carroll Shelby and Phil Hill to ones
we've never heard of--has a 1-5 page bio (done almost entirely from
first-person interviews), but it's the nearly 300 b&w photos that are the real
treasure.  Steve McQueen in his TC--Bill Milliken in the Bugatti--Denver
Cornett and his TC just after it rolled into the creek at The Glen....  It's a
fascinating look at a simpler--and crazier--time.

Details at:   www.McFarlandpub.com.  They ship promptly -- I ordered mine on a
Monday and it arrived that Friday.  Dick Knudson is supposed to be doing a
review of it for his TSO column.

Sarah Carr
TD3942EXLU in PA

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Nov 22 08:22:26 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 09:22:26 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Body plate graphic
Message-ID: <4CEC663EED7D4236A6FAF5C06CE6F2D9@bboffice>

Hello list,
 
I am new to MG so please pardon some of my ignorance.  A friend just brought
me his 1953 TD that has been sitting for 10 years, after a re-spray and
freshening.  As I go to look for the odds and ends to get him back on the
road I am trying to understand the meanings of all the notations on the
plate.  Is there a web site that shows the plate and explains the meaning of
the numbers and which number is most commonly used, in what I would call,
the VIN number?
 
Here is what I have:
Body Type: 22381
Body No.:12643/82584
Car No.: 13271 EXL/NA
Engine No.: XPAG/TD2/LHX 13836 (believe this has a new engine as there is a
Hexagonal plate on the lower block that reads: Motor No.: 24090
 
Any assistance or direction would be most helpful.  
 
Thanks in advance,
Bill

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Tue Nov 22 09:05:07 2011
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:05:07 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Body plate graphic
In-Reply-To: <4CEC663EED7D4236A6FAF5C06CE6F2D9@bboffice>
References: <4CEC663EED7D4236A6FAF5C06CE6F2D9@bboffice>
Message-ID: <021301cca930$81583df0$8408b9d0$@com>

Bill,

Try this site as a start:
http://www.niagarabritishcarclub.org/mgtnumbers/numbers.html

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 9:22 AM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Body plate graphic

Hello list,
 
I am new to MG so please pardon some of my ignorance.  A friend just brought
me his 1953 TD that has been sitting for 10 years, after a re-spray and
freshening.  As I go to look for the odds and ends to get him back on the
road I am trying to understand the meanings of all the notations on the
plate.  Is there a web site that shows the plate and explains the meaning of
the numbers and which number is most commonly used, in what I would call,
the VIN number?
 
Here is what I have:
Body Type: 22381
Body No.:12643/82584
Car No.: 13271 EXL/NA
Engine No.: XPAG/TD2/LHX 13836 (believe this has a new engine as there is a
Hexagonal plate on the lower block that reads: Motor No.: 24090
 
Any assistance or direction would be most helpful.  
 
Thanks in advance,
Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Nov 22 09:12:46 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:12:46 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Body plate graphic
In-Reply-To: <4CEC663EED7D4236A6FAF5C06CE6F2D9@bboffice>
References: <4CEC663EED7D4236A6FAF5C06CE6F2D9@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4ECBC9FE.7000700@comcast.net>

Bill,
Here is a website to go to for production records on the car:
http://www.tregister.org/recall_page.php?req_page=records_home

The chassis number or VIN number is the car number.  The EXL/NA mean 
export, left hand drive, North America.  I would have thought it should 
have a TD in front of the number.
It does appear that the engine or just the block has been replaced.  The 
engine type is an XPAG, the TD2 means that is has an 8" rather than 7 
1/4" clutch (and probably some other updates)  It would appear that the 
register dropped the last digit off of the engine number on the website. 
You may be able to contact them to correct the record.
The engine in the car is a later one.  You could probably find out what 
car it came from by narrowing it down by typing in car numbers until 
that engine number comes up.

The car was built in Jan of 1952, so surely isn't a '53.
There should also be the chassis number stamped into the front left 
frame extension just under where the fender goes over it.

Others will be able to provide more information.

Charlie


On 11/22/2011 10:22 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> I am new to MG so please pardon some of my ignorance.  A friend just brought
> me his 1953 TD that has been sitting for 10 years, after a re-spray and
> freshening.  As I go to look for the odds and ends to get him back on the
> road I am trying to understand the meanings of all the notations on the
> plate.  Is there a web site that shows the plate and explains the meaning of
> the numbers and which number is most commonly used, in what I would call,
> the VIN number?
>
> Here is what I have:
> Body Type: 22381
> Body No.:12643/82584
> Car No.: 13271 EXL/NA
> Engine No.: XPAG/TD2/LHX 13836 (believe this has a new engine as there is a
> Hexagonal plate on the lower block that reads: Motor No.: 24090
>
> Any assistance or direction would be most helpful.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Nov 22 09:50:31 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:50:31 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: [...H...ealeys] TinyV-12
Message-ID: <4ECBD2D7.7@justbrits.com>

_*This is UN-REAL ! ! ! ! !*_

-------- Original Message --------

_*Amazing  !*_*   *    http://www.wimp.com/tiniestengine/

_______________________________________________

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Nov 22 10:11:52 2011
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:11:52 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Body plate graphic
In-Reply-To: <4ECBC9FE.7000700@comcast.net>
References: <4CEC663EED7D4236A6FAF5C06CE6F2D9@bboffice>
	<4ECBC9FE.7000700@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BC505F33C2C446D6A14CA679A2A76BF3@bboffice>

This is just what I was looking for, thanks.  I'm sure there will be more to
learn as I proceed with getting this nice example back on the road.

All the best,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:13 AM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Body plate graphic

Bill,
Here is a website to go to for production records on the car:
http://www.tregister.org/recall_page.php?req_page=records_home

The chassis number or VIN number is the car number.  The EXL/NA mean export,
left hand drive, North America.  I would have thought it should have a TD in
front of the number.
It does appear that the engine or just the block has been replaced.  The
engine type is an XPAG, the TD2 means that is has an 8" rather than 7 1/4"
clutch (and probably some other updates)  It would appear that the register
dropped the last digit off of the engine number on the website. 
You may be able to contact them to correct the record.
The engine in the car is a later one.  You could probably find out what car
it came from by narrowing it down by typing in car numbers until that engine
number comes up.

The car was built in Jan of 1952, so surely isn't a '53.
There should also be the chassis number stamped into the front left frame
extension just under where the fender goes over it.

Others will be able to provide more information.

Charlie


On 11/22/2011 10:22 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> I am new to MG so please pardon some of my ignorance.  A friend just 
> brought me his 1953 TD that has been sitting for 10 years, after a 
> re-spray and freshening.  As I go to look for the odds and ends to get 
> him back on the road I am trying to understand the meanings of all the 
> notations on the plate.  Is there a web site that shows the plate and 
> explains the meaning of the numbers and which number is most commonly 
> used, in what I would call, the VIN number?
>
> Here is what I have:
> Body Type: 22381
> Body No.:12643/82584
> Car No.: 13271 EXL/NA
> Engine No.: XPAG/TD2/LHX 13836 (believe this has a new engine as there 
> is a Hexagonal plate on the lower block that reads: Motor No.: 24090
>
> Any assistance or direction would be most helpful.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf] ______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From gunnellj at tds.net  Sat Nov 26 20:26:55 2011
From: gunnellj at tds.net (gunnellj tds.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:26:55 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Hub-A-Dub-A
Message-ID: <CAL+NFWcOzk2HW0pRhOauhZ=AC7mRrsOfZnr1JtsU3+smeLZv_A@mail.gmail.com>

Gang

   I'm back at work on the 1950 MG TD "hot rod" and I've been told that I
did a no-no by taking out the short screws that hold the front brake drum
and hub together. I found out the reason they were so hard to remove is
that they weren't made to come apart and the factory had peened them over
on the inside.

   To tell you the trutch, I don't know how I could have "restored" the
drums if I didn't take the hubs off. Both parts needed a good bath and nw
paint and all that. I used some old Eastwood brake caliper paint that I've
had forver and they look gorgeous. The paint is a cast iron color and even
though it was really old, it went on very nice.

   So now what do I do? I suppose there is no way to get those short, kind
of fat, beveled and slotted screws, especially if they have a British
standard tread. Does ANYONE know of a direct replacement? How about rivets?
Will they work? I suppose I could just freakin' weld them together, too.
After all, it's a hot rod.

   Anyone have a Ford V8-60 flathead engine to trade for an MG TD engine?




-- 
"Gunner"

John Gunnell
PO Box 87
Iola, WI 54945
Ph: 715 445 4262
Cell: 715 281 5925

Please visit Gunner's Great Garage
Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - and Art Gallery
at the corner of Highway 110 and E6110 Fuhs Road in Manawa, WI
Shop: 920-596-2273
www.gunnersgreatgarage.com



Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Tue Nov 29 11:27:09 2011
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 10:27:09 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Steve Neal is looking for some MG TF Gas Tank End Panels.
Message-ID: <D6B81A74-3463-4DF1-B770-8E445931C069@earthlink.net>

Steve Neal, of Skyhook Engineering, in Maine, is looking for some MG  
TF Gas Tank End Panels.
If you have some to sell in good condition, please contact him at  
skyhook114 at comcast.net

John Seim
Irvine, CA

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 29 13:24:13 2011
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 15:24:13 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Steve Neal is looking for some MG TF Gas Tank End Panels.
In-Reply-To: <D6B81A74-3463-4DF1-B770-8E445931C069@earthlink.net>
References: <D6B81A74-3463-4DF1-B770-8E445931C069@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W63A6C411F8780E1AC63D3FB7B30@phx.gbl>

I've been watching these on eBay for months:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380298372324?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1438.l2649

You'll notice the written description is wrong.  I'd contact the seller to
make sure it's the gas tank end panels he's selling, but $100 doesn't seem
like a steep price for these.

-Mike Eldred
Wilmington, VT


> From: kingseim at earthlink.net
> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 10:27:09 -0800
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Steve Neal is looking for some MG TF Gas Tank End Panels.
>
> Steve Neal, of Skyhook Engineering, in Maine, is looking for some MG
> TF Gas Tank End Panels.
> If you have some to sell in good condition, please contact him at
> skyhook114 at comcast.net
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA

From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz  Wed Nov 30 21:29:50 2011
From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 04:29:50 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition problem - I think!
Message-ID: <D7243AD61D83A24BAAC492216B6A9A8B042EA577@CORTEX.neuro.local>

Hi T people

Last weekend my 51 TD, which has been very reliable to date, started to
suddenly  miss then died altogether. I suspected ignition as the pump was
ticking away - but could not find anything obvious so got towed home.

I have since cleaned and reset the points, fitted a new condenser and
distributor cap. There is a spark on manually opening closing the points, but
does not seem to be a spark at the plugs - with one removed and sitting on a
bright spot on the engine while it turns over. Engine does not even attempt to
fire. All connections seem tight and the wiring was all renewed on
restoration.

The only old bit in the system is a 1973 Lucas TA12 sports coil. Should I
suspect that? How do I test it? I can't remember  - should it be a Ballast or
non-Ballast type coil. I have a couple of other coils a Lucas 8C12 Ballast
type and a HA12 fluid cooled type - and a Delco Remy 115043. Guess I could buy
a new one and try that - but would like to know if the coil is at fault
first.

Any other suggests for fault finding gratefully accepted.

Thanks

Douglas

From ted at the-jacksons.ca  Wed Nov 30 21:51:34 2011
From: ted at the-jacksons.ca (Ted Jackson)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 23:51:34 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition problem - I think!
In-Reply-To: <D7243AD61D83A24BAAC492216B6A9A8B042EA577@CORTEX.neuro.local>
References: <D7243AD61D83A24BAAC492216B6A9A8B042EA577@CORTEX.neuro.local>
Message-ID: <CAMhOVDsUC9kA9py-Xg1u2CSh-wNN0i2tNaKdRi41PREqbW=eew@mail.gmail.com>

Try replacing the rotor. It has happened to me and one other that I know.
The rotor can develop a pin hole short. Too small to see that just route
the electricity straight to ground (earth).

Ted Jackson
On Nov 30, 2011 11:34 PM, "Douglas Ormrod" <
Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz> wrote:
>
> Hi T people
>
> Last weekend my 51 TD, which has been very reliable to date, started to
> suddenly  miss then died altogether. I suspected ignition as the pump was
> ticking away - but could not find anything obvious so got towed home.
>
> I have since cleaned and reset the points, fitted a new condenser and
> distributor cap. There is a spark on manually opening closing the points,
but
> does not seem to be a spark at the plugs - with one removed and sitting
on a
> bright spot on the engine while it turns over. Engine does not even
attempt to
> fire. All connections seem tight and the wiring was all renewed on
> restoration.
>
> The only old bit in the system is a 1973 Lucas TA12 sports coil. Should I
> suspect that? How do I test it? I can't remember  - should it be a
Ballast or
> non-Ballast type coil. I have a couple of other coils a Lucas 8C12 Ballast
> type and a HA12 fluid cooled type - and a Delco Remy 115043. Guess I
could buy
> a new one and try that - but would like to know if the coil is at fault
> first.
>
> Any other suggests for fault finding gratefully accepted.
>
> Thanks
>
> Douglas
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ted at the-jacksons.ca

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Wed Nov 30 22:39:22 2011
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John F. Quilter)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 21:39:22 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw:  Ignition problem - I think!
Message-ID: <0E49AD44EB1D4DB4905ABF408D73564F@JQLT070909>

I would also suspect the rotor.  I had this exact same problem a few years 
ago with my 1965 Jaguar sedan and it was a shorted rotor.   I have heard 
that there were a batch of bad rotors out there that would suddenly short to 
ground via a rivet holding the brass contact in place.

John Quilter
Eugene, Oregon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ted Jackson" <ted at the-jacksons.ca>
To: "Douglas Ormrod" <Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz>
Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition problem - I think!


> Try replacing the rotor. It has happened to me and one other that I know.
> The rotor can develop a pin hole short. Too small to see that just route
> the electricity straight to ground (earth).
>
> Ted Jackson
> On Nov 30, 2011 11:34 PM, "Douglas Ormrod" <
> Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz> wrote:
>>
>> Hi T people
>>
>> Last weekend my 51 TD, which has been very reliable to date, started to
>> suddenly  miss then died altogether. I suspected ignition as the pump was
>> ticking away - but could not find anything obvious so got towed home.
>>
>> I have since cleaned and reset the points, fitted a new condenser and
>> distributor cap. There is a spark on manually opening closing the points,
> but
>> does not seem to be a spark at the plugs - with one removed and sitting
> on a
>> bright spot on the engine while it turns over. Engine does not even
> attempt to
>> fire. All connections seem tight and the wiring was all renewed on
>> restoration.
>>
>> The only old bit in the system is a 1973 Lucas TA12 sports coil. Should I
>> suspect that? How do I test it? I can't remember  - should it be a
> Ballast or
>> non-Ballast type coil. I have a couple of other coils a Lucas 8C12 
>> Ballast
>> type and a HA12 fluid cooled type - and a Delco Remy 115043. Guess I
> could buy
>> a new one and try that - but would like to know if the coil is at fault
>> first.
>>
>> Any other suggests for fault finding gratefully accepted.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Douglas
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ted at the-jacksons.ca
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/jquilter at peoplepc.com

From Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz  Wed Nov 30 23:58:28 2011
From: Douglas.Ormrod at Neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 06:58:28 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] Fixed!  Ignition problem - I think!
Message-ID: <D7243AD61D83A24BAAC492216B6A9A8B042EA5DC@CORTEX.neuro.local>

Well you were all dead right. I was down there fiddling around just now and
while looking for something else I found the original tatty looking  Lucas
rotor arm that came with the car 11 years ago- which I had discarded in favour
a nice shiny new Moss one.

So having tried everything else I stuck in in and away it went. Good old Lucas
- I will not insult their good name ever again, well probably.

Thanks

Douglas