From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Mon Mar  7 14:20:58 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 16:20:58 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Generator pulley nut
Message-ID: <AANLkTikg6sBk2jFwsK4sU-=mYEj2B8Q1W51jQEyS--3E@mail.gmail.com>

What is the correct way to keep the armature on the generator "locked" when
trying to remove the pulley nut?
I want to be able to swap the pulley and fan to a spare gennie.
Thanks in advance.
John Deikis
-- 
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
Click on MGDrive for CURE <http://www.kidscure.blogspot,com/>

From anngene at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar  7 14:34:34 2011
From: anngene at bellsouth.net (anngene at bellsouth.net)
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 15:34:34 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Generator pulley nut
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikg6sBk2jFwsK4sU-=mYEj2B8Q1W51jQEyS--3E@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikg6sBk2jFwsK4sU-=mYEj2B8Q1W51jQEyS--3E@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <050310D638D34E838C7825C3FA11FE6A@Home>

John,

The easiest way is to wrap your V-belt around the pulley and clamp the 
V-belt in a vice.  That will keep it from turning while you undo the nut.

Gene

--------------------------------------------------  

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Mar  7 15:21:22 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 22:21:22 GMT
Subject: [Mg-t] Generator pulley nut
Message-ID: <20110307.172122.15986.3@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>

  An oil-filter strap wrench is one way, or the rubber-strap equivalent
wrench, but avoid sticking a screwdriver into the fins of the fan as that's a
sure way to break the cast finned fans that are sometimes seen, and will
probably bend the steel fins also.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
To: MG T List <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Generator pulley nut
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 16:20:58 -0500

What is the correct way to keep the armature on the generator "locked" when
trying to remove the pulley nut?
I want to be able to swap the pulley and fan to a spare gennie.
Thanks in advance.
John Deikis
--
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
Click on MGDrive for CURE <http://www.kidscure.blogspot,com/>
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com

From simbafish at comcast.net  Wed Mar  9 08:54:42 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 10:54:42 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
Message-ID: <C99D0CF2.31D9%simbafish@comcast.net>

In the summer heat here in Venice, FL my TD9s water temp usually runs in the
90 - 95 deg C range. I am concerned that the Rallye to Reno might be a
problem when crossing the Nevada desert. When I drove through the Mojave
Desert  in October 7 years ago, the air temp in the shade was 110 deg F. It
caused my water to BOIL. This resulted in putting a hole in #2 piston. Don9t
want to do that again; though, I do not think the desert of Nevada will be
quite so hot mid June. So I am wondering what can I do to get the
temperature down. I have already removed the many car badges in front of the
radiator (they were there when I went through the Mojave). Also, I am
already using a MGB 7 blade plastic fan.

What should I do and not do. Here are my thoughts:

1) Have local Leyland trained Brit garage  professionally set the timing. I
may have been running high all this time. Should I have them set the
carburetors? The plugs are brown, not black or ash white.

2) Should I remove the radiator and have it boiled out or is just flushing
and refilling with antifreeze and Water Wetter sufficient? Somewhere I read
about a caustic solution you could run through the radiator, but I do not
know what the product was called and I wonder how safe it would be on the
engine components and fittings. Comments?

3) Should I install an oil cooler? Are they really that beneficial? I
question doing too many mods on the old gal before a long trip. It has been
running fine except for possibility of overheating.

4)  I think there is no room for an electric fan in a TD.  Are they really
that beneficial, anyway?

5) Any other considerations?

Cancelling out of the Rallye is not an option. Glutton for punishment, I
plan to drive from Venice to Ocean City, MD so I can start on the East
Coast. That will mean an additional 1000 miles for the total trip.

Thanks

Stu Keen
1951 MGTD Mk II

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Mar  9 19:46:41 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 21:46:41 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <C99D0CF2.31D9%simbafish@comcast.net>
References: <C99D0CF2.31D9%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4D783B91.8030008@comcast.net>

Stu, It would help everyone to make better comments to know some more of 
what you have done already.  Have you had your radiator recored with a 
modern core with more tubes?  Have you removed the radiator previously 
and had it professionally flushed out and tested?  I seem to recall a 
hole inside each of the core plugs in the block that are under the 
manifolds that if they are not cleaned out could cause overheating.
Do you run antifreeze or just the water wetter?  Up here in PA, I always 
keep antifreeze in my radiators because it gets cold in the winter even 
though I do not drive the TD in the winter.  There could always be a 
possibility of doing so, though, so I keep antifreeze in all of my 
cars.  I have heard that antifreeze makes the water wetter less 
effective, but don't know which helps the most.  Water Wetter helps the 
transfer of heat, but antifreeze actually raises the boiling point.  It 
may be best to do one or the other, whichever does the most to help.
You are correct about the timing; either severely advanced or retarded 
could cause it to run hotter, but if it is pretty close which is easy to 
do, it should be all right.
Another thought would be to open the slats in the grille a bit.  
Sometimes they may get pushed shut or rotated so they do not allow a lot 
of airflow.
I wonder if anyone has made a fan shroud for TDs to make sure that the 
airflow does not go around the fan.  It may be worth checking that out.  
Moss shows one for the MGB, but not the TD.
Keep us informed of what you do and good luck on the trip.
Charlie

On 3/9/2011 10:54 AM, Stuart Keen wrote:
> In the summer heat here in Venice, FL my TD9s water temp usually runs in the
> 90 - 95 deg C range. I am concerned that the Rallye to Reno might be a
> problem when crossing the Nevada desert. When I drove through the Mojave
> Desert  in October 7 years ago, the air temp in the shade was 110 deg F. It
> caused my water to BOIL. This resulted in putting a hole in #2 piston. Don9t
> want to do that again; though, I do not think the desert of Nevada will be
> quite so hot mid June. So I am wondering what can I do to get the
> temperature down. I have already removed the many car badges in front of the
> radiator (they were there when I went through the Mojave). Also, I am
> already using a MGB 7 blade plastic fan.
>
> What should I do and not do. Here are my thoughts:
>
> 1) Have local Leyland trained Brit garage  professionally set the timing. I
> may have been running high all this time. Should I have them set the
> carburetors? The plugs are brown, not black or ash white.
>
> 2) Should I remove the radiator and have it boiled out or is just flushing
> and refilling with antifreeze and Water Wetter sufficient? Somewhere I read
> about a caustic solution you could run through the radiator, but I do not
> know what the product was called and I wonder how safe it would be on the
> engine components and fittings. Comments?
>
> 3) Should I install an oil cooler? Are they really that beneficial? I
> question doing too many mods on the old gal before a long trip. It has been
> running fine except for possibility of overheating.
>
> 4)  I think there is no room for an electric fan in a TD.  Are they really
> that beneficial, anyway?
>
> 5) Any other considerations?
>
> Cancelling out of the Rallye is not an option. Glutton for punishment, I
> plan to drive from Venice to Ocean City, MD so I can start on the East
> Coast. That will mean an additional 1000 miles for the total trip.
>
> Thanks
>
> Stu Keen
> 1951 MGTD Mk II
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From simbafish at comcast.net  Wed Mar  9 20:34:51 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 22:34:51 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <4D783B91.8030008@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C99DB10B.31FF%simbafish@comcast.net>

Hi Charlie,

Thanks for your reply. Here are some answers to your questions.

1) I use Water Wetter WITH anti-freeze. I have read all versions of
reports/comments whether the combination is good, whether one should be used
instead of the other, etc. Even the manufacturer only says they can be used
together but not if this is a good idea or not.

2) The radiator was boiled out 65,920 miles or 9 years ago. How often should
this be done?

3) How would I know visually if the radiator has been recored. Certainly was
not done by me in the last 11 years of ownership, but the previous owner may
have done so when doing an off frame restoration. He was a machinist and
professional Triumph racer at Indianapolis. I have his shoe box of all
receipts for parts and labor and find no mention of recoring.

4) Opening the slats would be a great idea but I am afraid it would crack
the lacquer acrylic paint. I have very little for touching up.

5) Once I tried making a fan shroud to capture as much air as possible. I
thought it too precarious  to install, with the fan blade whirling around,
for more than just a test. The short test did not indicate it would be
beneficial, but this test may not have been adequate to evaluate.

5) I did install a heater. I suppose I could dissipate the heat by running
the heater in the desert (at my great discomfort). Talk about a sauna.

Stu

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 08:23:39 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 09:23:39 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Overheating?=
Message-ID: <20110310152326.E3A8D18767B@autox.team.net>

Guys,
You might want to try the waterless coolant, racing version.
Boils at over 300f. 
I have it in all the cars, as well as the diesel tow truck.
R

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Stuart Keen" <simbafish at comcast.net>
Date: Wed, Mar 9, 2011 21:34
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>

Hi Charlie,

Thanks for your reply. Here are some answers to your questions.

1) I use Water Wetter WITH anti-freeze. I have read all versions of
reports/comments whether the combination is good, whether one should be used
instead of the other, etc. Even the manufacturer only says they can be used
together but not if this is a good idea or not.

2) The radiator was boiled out 65,920 miles or 9 years ago. How often should
this be done?

3) How would I know visually if the radiator has been recored. Certainly was
not done by me in the last 11 years of ownership, but the previous owner may
have done so when doing an off frame restoration. He was a machinist and
professional Triumph racer at Indianapolis. I have his shoe box of all
receipts for parts and labor and find no mention of recoring.

4) Opening the slats would be a great idea but I am afraid it would crack
the lacquer acrylic paint. I have very little for touching up.

5) Once I tried making a fan shroud to capture as much air as possible. I
thought it too precarious  to install, with the fan blade whirling around,
for more than just a test. The short test did not indicate it would be
beneficial, but this test may not have been adequate to evaluate.

5) I did install a heater. I suppose I could dissipate the heat by running
the heater in the desert (at my great discomfort). Talk about a sauna.

Stu
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/spook01 at comcast.net

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 08:34:22 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 10:34:22 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
Message-ID: <4D78EF7E.70008@comcast.net>

R,
Can you elaborate with a product name and where it can be purchased?
Charlie

PS Isn't there any more wisdom from the list to help Stu out?

On 3/10/2011 10:23 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> Guys,
> You might want to try the waterless coolant, racing version.
> Boils at over 300f.
> I have it in all the cars, as well as the diesel tow truck.
> R
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Stuart Keen" <simbafish at comcast.net>
> Date: Wed, Mar 9, 2011 21:34
> Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
> To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> Thanks for your reply. Here are some answers to your questions.
>
> 1) I use Water Wetter WITH anti-freeze. I have read all versions of
> reports/comments whether the combination is good, whether one should 
> be used
> instead of the other, etc. Even the manufacturer only says they can be 
> used
> together but not if this is a good idea or not.
>
> 2) The radiator was boiled out 65,920 miles or 9 years ago. How often 
> should
> this be done?
>
> 3) How would I know visually if the radiator has been recored. 
> Certainly was
> not done by me in the last 11 years of ownership, but the previous 
> owner may
> have done so when doing an off frame restoration. He was a machinist and
> professional Triumph racer at Indianapolis. I have his shoe box of all
> receipts for parts and labor and find no mention of recoring.
>
> 4) Opening the slats would be a great idea but I am afraid it would crack
> the lacquer acrylic paint. I have very little for touching up.
>
> 5) Once I tried making a fan shroud to capture as much air as possible. I
> thought it too precarious  to install, with the fan blade whirling around,
> for more than just a test. The short test did not indicate it would be
> beneficial, but this test may not have been adequate to evaluate.
>
> 5) I did install a heater. I suppose I could dissipate the heat by running
> the heater in the desert (at my great discomfort). Talk about a sauna.
>
> Stu
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/spook01 at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 10:00:22 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 11:00:22 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Overheating?=
Message-ID: <20110310170016.E1C2018767F@autox.team.net>

Yeah, sorry.   It's called Evans waterless coolant. Apparently developed for the trucking industry.  You have to get ALL the water out, and it isn't cheap, but it works and lasts!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Date: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 09:34
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
To: 
Cc: "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>


R,
Can you elaborate with a product name and where it can be purchased?
Charlie

PS Isn't there any more wisdom from the list to help Stu out?

On 3/10/2011 10:23 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> Guys,
> You might want to try the waterless coolant, racing version.
> Boils at over 300f.
> I have it in all the cars, as well as the diesel tow truck.
> R
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Stuart Keen" <simbafish at comcast.net>
> Date: Wed, Mar 9, 2011 21:34
> Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
> To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> Thanks for your reply. Here are some answers to your questions.
>
> 1) I use Water Wetter WITH anti-freeze. I have read all versions of
> reports/comments whether the combination is good, whether one should 
> be used
> instead of the other, etc. Even the manufacturer only says they can be 
> used
> together but not if this is a good idea or not.
>
> 2) The radiator was boiled out 65,920 miles or 9 years ago. How often 
> should
> this be done?
>
> 3) How would I know visually if the radiator has been recored. 
> Certainly was
> not done by me in the last 11 years of ownership, but the previous 
> owner may
> have done so when doing an off frame restoration. He was a machinist and
> professional Triumph racer at Indianapolis. I have his shoe box of all
> receipts for parts and labor and find no mention of recoring.
>
> 4) Opening the slats would be a great idea but I am afraid it would crack
> the lacquer acrylic paint. I have very little for touching up.
>
> 5) Once I tried making a fan shroud to capture as much air as possible. I
> thought it too precarious  to install, with the fan blade whirling around,
> for more than just a test. The short test did not indicate it would be
> beneficial, but this test may not have been adequate to evaluate.
>
> 5) I did install a heater. I suppose I could dissipate the heat by running
> the heater in the desert (at my great discomfort). Talk about a sauna.
>
> Stu
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/spook01 at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From PopeyMike at aol.com  Thu Mar 10 10:30:03 2011
From: PopeyMike at aol.com (PopeyMike at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:30:03 EST
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
Message-ID: <4eed9.4a0e776e.3aaa649b@aol.com>

Confucius didn't  say  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Man who wants pretty  nurse, must be patient.

Passionate kiss, like spider web, leads  to undoing of fly.

Better to be pissed off than pissed  on.

Lady who goes camping must beware of evil  intent.

Squirrel who runs up womans' leg will not find  nuts.

Man who leaps off cliff jumps to  conclusion.

Man who runs in front of car gets tired, man who runs  behind car gets 
exhausted.

Man who eats many prunes get good run  for money.

War does not determine who is right, it determines who  is left.

Man who fight with wife all day get no piece at  night.

It takes many nails to build a crib, but one screw to fill  it.

Man who drives like hell is bound to get  there.

Man who stands on toilet is high on pot.

Man  who live in glass house  should change clothes in  basement.

Man who fish in other man's well often catch  crabs.

Finally  CONFUCIUS DID SAY. . .

"A lion  will not cheat on his wife, but a Tiger  Wood!"

From simbafish at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 10:33:13 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:33:13 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
Message-ID: <C99E7589.321F%simbafish@comcast.net>

Thanks for the head9s up on waterless coolant. Where do you find such, never
heard of it.?S ounds like it would be much cheaper than doing any upgrades.
Would a place such as Advanced Auto Discount carry such?

Stu


On 3/10/11 10:23 AM, "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Guys,
> You might want to try the waterless coolant, racing version.
> Boils at over 300f.
> I have it in all the cars, as well as the diesel tow truck.
> R

From simbafish at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 10:35:11 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:35:11 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <20110310170016.E1C2018767F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C99E75FF.3221%simbafish@comcast.net>

You already answered my question about availability. Just got home and did
not see there was a second email from you about waterless coolant.

Stu

From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 10 10:38:24 2011
From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (MARK SHERMAN)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:38:24 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <20110310170016.E1C2018767F@autox.team.net>
References: <20110310170016.E1C2018767F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=8_hjok8QYbLsQqFybRC4oibJ1xRZhOAgK5O31@mail.gmail.com>

Is it approved for racing?  Most race tracks I know require water as the
coolant.

Mark Sherman

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 12:00 PM, spook01 at comcast.net
<spook01 at comcast.net>wrote:

> Yeah, sorry.   It's called Evans waterless coolant. Apparently developed
> for the trucking industry.  You have to get ALL the water out, and it isn't
> cheap, but it works and lasts!
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
> Date: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 09:34
> Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
> To:
> Cc: "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>
>
> R,
> Can you elaborate with a product name and where it can be purchased?
> Charlie
>
> PS Isn't there any more wisdom from the list to help Stu out?
>
> On 3/10/2011 10:23 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> > Guys,
> > You might want to try the waterless coolant, racing version.
> > Boils at over 300f.
> > I have it in all the cars, as well as the diesel tow truck.
> > R
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
> >
> > ----- Reply message -----
> > From: "Stuart Keen" <simbafish at comcast.net>
> > Date: Wed, Mar 9, 2011 21:34
> > Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
> > To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net
> >
> >
> > Hi Charlie,
> >
> > Thanks for your reply. Here are some answers to your questions.
> >
> > 1) I use Water Wetter WITH anti-freeze. I have read all versions of
> > reports/comments whether the combination is good, whether one should
> > be used
> > instead of the other, etc. Even the manufacturer only says they can be
> > used
> > together but not if this is a good idea or not.
> >
> > 2) The radiator was boiled out 65,920 miles or 9 years ago. How often
> > should
> > this be done?
> >
> > 3) How would I know visually if the radiator has been recored.
> > Certainly was
> > not done by me in the last 11 years of ownership, but the previous
> > owner may
> > have done so when doing an off frame restoration. He was a machinist and
> > professional Triumph racer at Indianapolis. I have his shoe box of all
> > receipts for parts and labor and find no mention of recoring.
> >
> > 4) Opening the slats would be a great idea but I am afraid it would crack
> > the lacquer acrylic paint. I have very little for touching up.
> >
> > 5) Once I tried making a fan shroud to capture as much air as possible. I
> > thought it too precarious  to install, with the fan blade whirling
> around,
> > for more than just a test. The short test did not indicate it would be
> > beneficial, but this test may not have been adequate to evaluate.
> >
> > 5) I did install a heater. I suppose I could dissipate the heat by
> running
> > the heater in the desert (at my great discomfort). Talk about a sauna.
> >
> > Stu
> > ______________________________________________
> >
> > Mg-t at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/spook01 at comcast.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
> of mgcharlie.vcf]
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mrkshrmn at hotmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Mark Sherman

From anngene at bellsouth.net  Thu Mar 10 10:39:10 2011
From: anngene at bellsouth.net (anngene at bellsouth.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 11:39:10 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <4D78EF7E.70008@comcast.net>
References: <4D78EF7E.70008@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8229FC59489042ECB93A62F99BB0937B@Home>

Charlie wrote:
"Isn't there any more wisdom from the list to help Stu out?"


Charlie,

You managed to provide most of the answers yourself...not much more to add.

I agree with your top three...

Radiator - If you're having problems get a modern three or four core 
radiator installed.   They can put your top and bottom on the core and it's 
virtually unnoticeable unless you know what to look for.

Radiator slats - Any paint shop can match paint so not having much of the 
correct color is not an excuse not to open up your radiator slats to allow 
for better air flow.  Of all the fixes I've heard through the years this is 
the most common.

Holes behind the core plugs.  Here's a link to an article I wrote for the 
T-ABC group:  http://mg-tabc.org/techn-up/The%20Hidden%20Water%20Passage.htm

And here's a link to the water flow in an XPAG engine: 
http://mg-tabc.org/techn-up/The%20XPAG%20Cooling%20System.pdf

Best regards,
Gene 

From simbafish at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 10:47:52 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:47:52 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <20110310170016.E1C2018767F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C99E78F8.3229%simbafish@comcast.net>

Evans might be a too-easy fix for a major problem. What problems have you
had? On searching the net, I came across the follow. Any comments?

You have to be careful with the water pump. Usually the water pump will work
fine on a race car, but will not flow fast enough for Evans at low engine
speeds. You also need a larger radiator with large coolant tubes. I have
tried Evans on several cars including a 1000 HP road race car. In my humble
opinion, this stuff does not work. Your metal temps run higher with Evans,
not what their marketing claims. By the way, no track that I know of will
allow you to run this anymore. All the tracks require water only in the
coolant system. 


Stu
1951 MG TD MkII

From simbafish at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 11:08:33 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:08:33 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <8229FC59489042ECB93A62F99BB0937B@Home>
Message-ID: <C99E7DD1.322D%simbafish@comcast.net>

Great documents. Thanks.

Stu

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 11:19:31 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:19:31 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <8229FC59489042ECB93A62F99BB0937B@Home>
References: <4D78EF7E.70008@comcast.net>
	<8229FC59489042ECB93A62F99BB0937B@Home>
Message-ID: <4D791633.4070202@comcast.net>

Gene,
I understand the paint issue with Stu's car because he painted it in the 
original nitrocellulose type lacquer provided by William Wolf in Ohio.  
It may be beneficial to paint the radiator slats with another type of 
paint that could be purchased locally.  I don't recall for sure, but I 
think that his car is red with a red interior, so the slats would be 
body color.
Thanks for adding a bit more detail to my recoring comments and for your 
links.
Charlie

On 3/10/2011 12:39 PM, anngene at bellsouth.net wrote:
> Charlie wrote:
> "Isn't there any more wisdom from the list to help Stu out?"
>
>
> Charlie,
>
> You managed to provide most of the answers yourself...not much more to 
> add.
>
> I agree with your top three...
>
> Radiator - If you're having problems get a modern three or four core 
> radiator installed.   They can put your top and bottom on the core and 
> it's virtually unnoticeable unless you know what to look for.
>
> Radiator slats - Any paint shop can match paint so not having much of 
> the correct color is not an excuse not to open up your radiator slats 
> to allow for better air flow.  Of all the fixes I've heard through the 
> years this is the most common.
>
> Holes behind the core plugs.  Here's a link to an article I wrote for 
> the T-ABC group:  
> http://mg-tabc.org/techn-up/The%20Hidden%20Water%20Passage.htm
>
> And here's a link to the water flow in an XPAG engine: 
> http://mg-tabc.org/techn-up/The%20XPAG%20Cooling%20System.pdf
>
> Best regards,
> Gene

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From simbafish at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 11:34:05 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:34:05 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <4D791633.4070202@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C99E83CD.3231%simbafish@comcast.net>

Hi Gene et al

I misunderstood the comment about bending the slats. I thought the
discussion was about bending the slats on the side of the bonnet to increase
air flow exiting. Now that I understand it is the radiator slats, not a
problem. This is a Mk II and accordingly has chrome plated slats, not
painted. Not a problem to bend, so this will be done before the day is out.
Any idea how much they should be opened. I suppose maximum would be best,
but then I do not know the physics of air flow.

Stu

1951 MH TD MkII

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 12:03:04 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:03:04 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Overheating?=
Message-ID: <20110310190300.69F7D18786B@autox.team.net>

Hi stu,
I get it off their website. I originally heard of it from a heavy truck driver.
The truck, not him personally!  ;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Stuart Keen" <simbafish at comcast.net>
Date: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 11:33
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
To: "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>, "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>

Thanks for the headB9s up on waterless coolant. Where do you find such, never
heard of it.?S ounds like it would be much cheaper than doing any upgrades.
Would a place such as Advanced Auto Discount carry such?

Stu


On 3/10/11 10:23 AM, "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Guys,
> You might want to try the waterless coolant, racing version.
> Boils at over 300f.
> I have it in all the cars, as well as the diesel tow truck.
> R

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 12:05:22 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:05:22 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Overheating?=
Message-ID: <20110310190512.CA45C187875@autox.team.net>

Apparently so.  SCCA allows coolant, and has at least since '69.  You have to install a catch tank, though. I presume NHRA does too.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "MARK SHERMAN" <mrkshrmn at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 11:38
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
To: "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
Cc: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>


Is it approved for racing?  Most race tracks I know require water as the
coolant.

Mark Sherman

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 12:00 PM, spook01 at comcast.net
<spook01 at comcast.net>wrote:

> Yeah, sorry.   It's called Evans waterless coolant. Apparently developed
> for the trucking industry.  You have to get ALL the water out, and it isn't
> cheap, but it works and lasts!
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
> Date: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 09:34
> Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
> To:
> Cc: "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>
>
> R,
> Can you elaborate with a product name and where it can be purchased?
> Charlie
>
> PS Isn't there any more wisdom from the list to help Stu out?
>
> On 3/10/2011 10:23 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> > Guys,
> > You might want to try the waterless coolant, racing version.
> > Boils at over 300f.
> > I have it in all the cars, as well as the diesel tow truck.
> > R
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
> >
> > ----- Reply message -----
> > From: "Stuart Keen" <simbafish at comcast.net>
> > Date: Wed, Mar 9, 2011 21:34
> > Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
> > To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net
> >
> >
> > Hi Charlie,
> >
> > Thanks for your reply. Here are some answers to your questions.
> >
> > 1) I use Water Wetter WITH anti-freeze. I have read all versions of
> > reports/comments whether the combination is good, whether one should
> > be used
> > instead of the other, etc. Even the manufacturer only says they can be
> > used
> > together but not if this is a good idea or not.
> >
> > 2) The radiator was boiled out 65,920 miles or 9 years ago. How often
> > should
> > this be done?
> >
> > 3) How would I know visually if the radiator has been recored.
> > Certainly was
> > not done by me in the last 11 years of ownership, but the previous
> > owner may
> > have done so when doing an off frame restoration. He was a machinist and

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Thu Mar 10 13:42:44 2011
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 15:42:44 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <C99E83CD.3231%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP89F2FAD4808B3AE2481AF892C80@phx.gbl>

Stu,
I would check that the TIMING is advanced enough. You stated earlier that it
was set by a British mechanic to spec, or some such comment.
Modern fuels require more advance on the distributor . I would warm up the
car, loosen the distributor, set the throttle to about 3000 to 3500 rpm by
sticking a match stick under the throttle stop. Now SLOWLY rotate the
distributor clockwise and the engine speed will most likely increase.
Continue clockwise rotation till the engine speed starts to fall off ( too
much advance ) . Now back off the timing slightly by rotating the
distributor anti-clockways to retard timing slightly. Clamp distributor and
test drive and make sure it starts OK.
Bob Grunau, Canada

-

Hi Gene et al

I misunderstood the comment about bending the slats. I thought the
discussion was about bending the slats on the side of the bonnet to increase
air flow exiting. Now that I understand it is the radiator slats, not a
problem. This is a Mk II and accordingly has chrome plated slats, not
painted. Not a problem to bend, so this will be done before the day is out.
Any idea how much they should be opened. I suppose maximum would be best,
but then I do not know the physics of air flow.

Stu

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Fri Mar 11 23:46:48 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (John Deikis)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 01:46:48 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <C99D0CF2.31D9%simbafish@comcast.net>
References: <C99D0CF2.31D9%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B501A2F7-253F-4A41-A44D-D8A64A71ACFD@gmail.com>

Stu:
You got some good suggestions already but re-reading your original post, a
couple of comments occurred to me about the Nevada desert. The fan becomes
irrelevant once you are up to speed, but a plastic MGB fan will really help
when you stop at a light after a longer high-speed run. Also, there are at
least two versions of water pumps being sold currently. The one I currently
run has brass (rather than cast iron) impellers and has maybe 6 of them rather
than the 4 on the original pump and on the ones sold by Moss. Finally, my plan
for crossing the worst part of the desert in Nevada is to do that stretch
through the night when it's cold. I remember this is how Hank and Tom Rippert
did it during the Ocean to Ocean.

I've just had my rad boiled out (stock core), have run an oil cooler for years
(has not proven to be very necessary on a street car in Michigan), and am
considering doing the Reno run without the bonnet side panels.

Glad you decided to do the R2R. I plan to join up in Ohio. bring a sleeping
bag...but don't come armed. ;-)

Cheers!

John Deikis
----------------
www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com



On Mar 9, 2011, at 10:54 AM, Stuart Keen <simbafish at comcast.net> wrote:

> In the summer heat here in Venice, FL my TD9s water temp usually runs in
the
> 90 - 95 deg C range. I am concerned that the Rallye to Reno might be a
> problem when crossing the Nevada desert. When I drove through the Mojave
> Desert  in October 7 years ago, the air temp in the shade was 110 deg F. It
> caused my water to BOIL. This resulted in putting a hole in #2 piston.
Don9t
> want to do that again; though, I do not think the desert of Nevada will be
> quite so hot mid June. So I am wondering what can I do to get the
> temperature down. I have already removed the many car badges in front of
the
> radiator (they were there when I went through the Mojave). Also, I am
> already using a MGB 7 blade plastic fan.
>
> What should I do and not do. Here are my thoughts:
>
> 1) Have local Leyland trained Brit garage  professionally set the timing. I
> may have been running high all this time. Should I have them set the
> carburetors? The plugs are brown, not black or ash white.
>
> 2) Should I remove the radiator and have it boiled out or is just flushing
> and refilling with antifreeze and Water Wetter sufficient? Somewhere I read
> about a caustic solution you could run through the radiator, but I do not
> know what the product was called and I wonder how safe it would be on the
> engine components and fittings. Comments?
>
> 3) Should I install an oil cooler? Are they really that beneficial? I
> question doing too many mods on the old gal before a long trip. It has been
> running fine except for possibility of overheating.
>
> 4)  I think there is no room for an electric fan in a TD.  Are they really
> that beneficial, anyway?
>
> 5) Any other considerations?
>
> Cancelling out of the Rallye is not an option. Glutton for punishment, I
> plan to drive from Venice to Ocean City, MD so I can start on the East
> Coast. That will mean an additional 1000 miles for the total trip.
>
> Thanks
>
> Stu Keen
> 1951 MGTD Mk II
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/johnsfolly at gmail.com

From PopeyMike at aol.com  Sat Mar 12 05:44:28 2011
From: PopeyMike at aol.com (PopeyMike at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 07:44:28 EST
Subject: [Mg-t] Overheating
Message-ID: <1e603.2261548c.3aacc4ac@aol.com>

Stu:
 
"Talk about a sauna."
 
Look at the bright side - SAY "weight control"
 
Michael Balahutrak
1951 TD
Houston, TX
_________________________________



In a message dated 3/9/2011 9:35:23 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
simbafish at comcast.net writes:

Hi  Charlie,

Thanks for your reply. Here are some answers to your  questions.

1) I use Water Wetter WITH anti-freeze. I have read all  versions of
reports/comments whether the combination is good, whether one  should be 
used
instead of the other, etc. Even the manufacturer only says  they can be used
together but not if this is a good idea or not.

2)  The radiator was boiled out 65,920 miles or 9 years ago. How often  
should
this be done?

3) How would I know visually if the radiator  has been recored. Certainly 
was
not done by me in the last 11 years of  ownership, but the previous owner 
may
have done so when doing an off frame  restoration. He was a machinist and
professional Triumph racer at  Indianapolis. I have his shoe box of all
receipts for parts and labor and  find no mention of recoring.

4) Opening the slats would be a great idea  but I am afraid it would crack
the lacquer acrylic paint. I have very  little for touching up.

5) Once I tried making a fan shroud to capture  as much air as possible. I
thought it too precarious  to install, with  the fan blade whirling around,
for more than just a test. The short test  did not indicate it would be
beneficial, but this test may not have been  adequate to evaluate.

5) I did install a heater. I suppose I could  dissipate the heat by running
the heater in the desert (at my great  discomfort). Talk about a  sauna.

Stu
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/popeymike at aol.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 14 14:58:37 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:58:37 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] upholstery mystery
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim0JOkjJgAnpuwO1dUC3NY4WummbwsDzfjFT2bi@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinJMDmVT+xVuXn90KY6B-kkqW0Ae5T4_HB-59b-@mail.gmail.com><4D64460A.4090008@comcast.net>
	<AANLkTim0JOkjJgAnpuwO1dUC3NY4WummbwsDzfjFT2bi@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <86A37D9AAC244163A1B68E0E9CF58A82@ranteer.local>

o;?Hello, all.

I just go my seats reupholstered, and when I picked them up, the shop said
boh, we donbt know where these go,b  and handed me these two parts plus
three small screws.
anyone?  what are these?  will my seats self destruct without them (just
kidding)?  They are obviously handed, but beyond that Ibm baffled.  They
donbt show up on either Moss or Abingdon Spares websites.
http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
the car is a very late 1952 MGTD.  for those of you who get the T Register,
bSallieb has been featured a few times in articles.

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Mar 15 09:06:57 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 16:06:57 GMT
Subject: [Mg-t] upholstery mystery
Message-ID: <20110315.120657.689.12@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>

  Good challenge.   I don't recognise them as parts that have fallen off my
TD, so have forwarded your inquiry to several in our CT MG Club who have done
complete restos on theirs.  What dimensions are these things? Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "'MG'" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] upholstery mystery
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:58:37 -0500

o;?Hello, all.

I just go my seats reupholstered, and when I picked them up, the shop said
boh, we donbt know where these go,b  and handed me these two parts plus
three small screws.
anyone?  what are these?  will my seats self destruct without them (just
kidding)?  They are obviously handed, but beyond that Ibm baffled.  They
donbt show up on either Moss or Abingdon Spares websites.
http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
the car is a very late 1952 MGTD.  for those of you who get the T Register,
bSallieb has been featured a few times in articles.
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Tue Mar 15 11:43:04 2011
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 13:43:04 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] upholstery mystery
In-Reply-To: <20110315.120657.689.12@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110315.120657.689.12@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <E665E31046864822A968A4E0B06DEA50@roundabout.com>

I have done the interiors of two TDs in the last 1.5 years and can say with
certainty that I don't recognize those parts as being part of TD seats.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mgbob at juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 11:07 AM
To: sumton at sbcglobal.net
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] upholstery mystery

  Good challenge.   I don't recognise them as parts that have fallen off my
TD, so have forwarded your inquiry to several in our CT MG Club who have
done
complete restos on theirs.  What dimensions are these things? Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "'MG'" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] upholstery mystery
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:58:37 -0500

o;?Hello, all.

I just go my seats reupholstered, and when I picked them up, the shop said
boh, we donbt know where these go,b  and handed me these two parts plus
three small screws.
anyone?  what are these?  will my seats self destruct without them (just
kidding)?  They are obviously handed, but beyond that Ibm baffled.  They
donbt show up on either Moss or Abingdon Spares websites.
http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
the car is a very late 1952 MGTD.  for those of you who get the T Register,
bSallieb has been featured a few times in articles.
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Tue Mar 15 20:41:51 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 23:41:51 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Valve seat angles
Message-ID: <AANLkTingxWjKsweJD6-bJvSg2chZ1WdVRGQcN6FuRBkv@mail.gmail.com>

Is it still the accepted practice to grind XPAG/XPEG valves and seats to an
identical 30' angle rather than do a 3 or 4-angle cut with a 1' differential
between valve and seat?
Don't want the machine shop to use big block Chevy tactics on my delicate
MG. ;-)
Thanks!
John Deikis
-- 
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com

From simbafish at comcast.net  Wed Mar 16 15:06:12 2011
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 18:06:12 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] ZDDP
Message-ID: <C9A6AC94.331E%simbafish@comcast.net>

Hi Y9all

I9ve been reading about ZDDP and flat head engines and before I get into
trouble, thought I9d better get some recommendations from the experts..

Some time ago (on this site, I believe) I read that Valvoline VR-1 racing
oil was the recommended oil for TDs because it contained ZDDP. So that9s
what I have been using. But is it enough. I see Moss sells ZDDPlus additive
so made the assumption that perhaps the ZDDP in VR-1 was not sufficient. So
I wrote the manufacturer. Here is their reply:

3Good to hear from you.. I'm not up to speed on the factory recommendation
for Zn and P content of a 1951 MGTD.. I suggest that you ask the engine
rebuilder, or find the original requirement for Zn and P content
 Then you
can choose any oil you like, and add ZddPlus until you get the proper
dosage.

ZDDP is an anti-wear molecule that activates with temperature and pressure.
When activated, the ZDDP molecule creates a "glass-like" barrier that
prevents the metal from touching metal.. When the temp/pressure subsides,
then spent ZDDP simply goes into solution. ZDDP has been around since the
start of WWII
 Most modern engines use roller cams and have no need for
ZDDP
 but a few of us drive flat-tappet vehicles.. and ZDDP is absolutely
required..2

For me that answer was a non-answer. 3Go to the manufacture of the engine2.
Hmmm. Anyway, does anyone have an educated opinion? Should I be adding ZDDP
to VR-1 or just oils which contain no ZDDP. On the Valvoline web site I
found that Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of
Phosphorus (ZDDP).


Comments? Thanks

Stu

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Mar 16 18:17:34 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 21:17:34 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] ZDDP
In-Reply-To: <C9A6AC94.331E%simbafish@comcast.net>
References: <C9A6AC94.331E%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4D81612E.4050000@comcast.net>

Stu,
What I have heard recommended is over 0.1 for either of z or p.  Check 
out Barney Gaylord's site for some info on this: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of104a.htm
And also search for other articles there.
Charlie

On 3/16/2011 6:06 PM, Stuart Keen wrote:
> Hi Y9all
>
> I9ve been reading about ZDDP and flat head engines and before I get into
> trouble, thought I9d better get some recommendations from the experts..
>
> Some time ago (on this site, I believe) I read that Valvoline VR-1 racing
> oil was the recommended oil for TDs because it contained ZDDP. So that9s
> what I have been using. But is it enough. I see Moss sells ZDDPlus additive
> so made the assumption that perhaps the ZDDP in VR-1 was not sufficient. So
> I wrote the manufacturer. Here is their reply:
>
> 3Good to hear from you.. I'm not up to speed on the factory recommendation
> for Zn and P content of a 1951 MGTD.. I suggest that you ask the engine
> rebuilder, or find the original requirement for Zn and P content
>   Then you
> can choose any oil you like, and add ZddPlus until you get the proper
> dosage.
>
> ZDDP is an anti-wear molecule that activates with temperature and pressure.
> When activated, the ZDDP molecule creates a "glass-like" barrier that
> prevents the metal from touching metal.. When the temp/pressure subsides,
> then spent ZDDP simply goes into solution. ZDDP has been around since the
> start of WWII
>   Most modern engines use roller cams and have no need for
> ZDDP
>   but a few of us drive flat-tappet vehicles.. and ZDDP is absolutely
> required..2
>
> For me that answer was a non-answer. 3Go to the manufacture of the engine2.
> Hmmm. Anyway, does anyone have an educated opinion? Should I be adding ZDDP
> to VR-1 or just oils which contain no ZDDP. On the Valvoline web site I
> found that Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of
> Phosphorus (ZDDP).
>
>
> Comments? Thanks
>
> Stu
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 17 05:30:14 2011
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 08:30:14 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
Message-ID: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>

Looks like all the hard work is done!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120698592887&vi
ewitem=

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Mar 17 05:56:42 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 08:56:42 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4D82050A.80003@comcast.net>

Beware of what it says is missing.

On 3/17/2011 8:30 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
> Looks like all the hard work is done!
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120698592887&vi
> ewitem=
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 17 06:14:05 2011
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:14:05 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
In-Reply-To: <4D82050A.80003@comcast.net>
References: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>,
	<4D82050A.80003@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W23A30ED3E91723B3BFEFAEB7B10@phx.gbl>

True.  At first glance I misread that as describing what was in photos that
weren't posted.  The gauges and gas tank would be particularly hard to find
and expensive to buy.

> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 08:56:42 -0400
> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
>
> Beware of what it says is missing.
>
> On 3/17/2011 8:30 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
> > Looks like all the hard work is done!
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120698592887&vi
> > ewitem=
> > ______________________________________________
> >
> > Mg-t at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com

From rgt3000 at fuse.net  Thu Mar 17 06:24:40 2011
From: rgt3000 at fuse.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:24:40 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W23A30ED3E91723B3BFEFAEB7B10@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>,
	<4D82050A.80003@comcast.net>
	<SNT124-W23A30ED3E91723B3BFEFAEB7B10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3C3F666D7CD74047AD75D105B1EC2524@VALUEDB8142DE8>

The rear fenders also appear to be incorrect - they look like early TD
fenders with the rectangular taillights.
-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Eldred
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 9:14 AM
To: Charlie Baldwin; mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI

True.  At first glance I misread that as describing what was in photos that
weren't posted.  The gauges and gas tank would be particularly hard to find
and expensive to buy.

> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 08:56:42 -0400
> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
>
> Beware of what it says is missing.
>
> On 3/17/2011 8:30 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
> > Looks like all the hard work is done!
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120698592887&v
i
> > ewitem=
> > ______________________________________________
> >
> > Mg-t at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation 
> > $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a 
> name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation 
> $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 17 06:37:08 2011
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:37:08 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
In-Reply-To: <3C3F666D7CD74047AD75D105B1EC2524@VALUEDB8142DE8>
References: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>, ,
	<4D82050A.80003@comcast.net>,
	<SNT124-W23A30ED3E91723B3BFEFAEB7B10@phx.gbl>,
	<3C3F666D7CD74047AD75D105B1EC2524@VALUEDB8142DE8>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W368DE82807C806B63A9840B7B10@phx.gbl>

If you look at the sideways closer-up photo you can see that they're the
correct fenders.  Or at least, the one in the photo is.

> From: rgt3000 at fuse.net
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:24:40 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
>
> The rear fenders also appear to be incorrect - they look like early TD
> fenders with the rectangular taillights.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Mike Eldred
> Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 9:14 AM
> To: Charlie Baldwin; mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
>
> True. At first glance I misread that as describing what was in photos that
> weren't posted. The gauges and gas tank would be particularly hard to find
> and expensive to buy.
>
> > Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 08:56:42 -0400
> > From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> > To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
> >
> > Beware of what it says is missing.
> >
> > On 3/17/2011 8:30 AM, Mike Eldred wrote:
> > > Looks like all the hard work is done!
> > >
> > >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120698592887&v
> i
> > > ewitem=
> > > ______________________________________________
> > >
> > > Mg-t at autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> > > $11.47
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgcharlie at comcast.net
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a
> > name of
> mgcharlie.vcf]
> > ______________________________________________
> >
> > Mg-t at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> > $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco at hotmail.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
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From ted at the-jacksons.ca  Thu Mar 17 12:18:38 2011
From: ted at the-jacksons.ca (Ted Jackson)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 15:18:38 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] ZDDP
In-Reply-To: <C9A6AC94.331E%simbafish@comcast.net>
References: <C9A6AC94.331E%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4D825E8E.7020502@the-jacksons.ca>

Hi Stu,

One of our guys, who races a TC, recommends adding one bottle (can) 
(500ml in Canada) to every oil change.
It's GM's Engine Oil Supplement, part# 992869. Sells for about $8.00 up 
here.

See 
http://omgtr.ca/technical/ZDDT%20Oil%20Additive/ZDDT%20Oil%20Supplement.htm 
for more details.

Ted

On 03/16/2011 06:06 PM, Stuart Keen wrote:
> Hi Y9all
>
> I9ve been reading about ZDDP and flat head engines and before I get into
> trouble, thought I9d better get some recommendations from the experts..
>
> Some time ago (on this site, I believe) I read that Valvoline VR-1 racing
> oil was the recommended oil for TDs because it contained ZDDP. So that9s
> what I have been using. But is it enough. I see Moss sells ZDDPlus additive
> so made the assumption that perhaps the ZDDP in VR-1 was not sufficient. So
> I wrote the manufacturer. Here is their reply:
>
> 3Good to hear from you.. I'm not up to speed on the factory recommendation
> for Zn and P content of a 1951 MGTD.. I suggest that you ask the engine
> rebuilder, or find the original requirement for Zn and P content
>   Then you
> can choose any oil you like, and add ZddPlus until you get the proper
> dosage.
>
> ZDDP is an anti-wear molecule that activates with temperature and pressure.
> When activated, the ZDDP molecule creates a "glass-like" barrier that
> prevents the metal from touching metal.. When the temp/pressure subsides,
> then spent ZDDP simply goes into solution. ZDDP has been around since the
> start of WWII
>   Most modern engines use roller cams and have no need for
> ZDDP
>   but a few of us drive flat-tappet vehicles.. and ZDDP is absolutely
> required..2
>
> For me that answer was a non-answer. 3Go to the manufacture of the engine2.
> Hmmm. Anyway, does anyone have an educated opinion? Should I be adding ZDDP
> to VR-1 or just oils which contain no ZDDP. On the Valvoline web site I
> found that Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of
> Phosphorus (ZDDP).
>
>
> Comments? Thanks
>
> Stu
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ted at the-jacksons.ca

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Fri Mar 25 21:08:07 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 00:08:07 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
Message-ID: <AANLkTim6wv3BNhnKFduTpe2dhKt7PkT_smmbkj5HCwBo@mail.gmail.com>

What sort of bulb fits the socket inside the ignition lamp on the fascia TD?
Thanks.
John Deikis

-- 
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
**MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Sat Mar 26 06:59:24 2011
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 08:59:24 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim6wv3BNhnKFduTpe2dhKt7PkT_smmbkj5HCwBo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim6wv3BNhnKFduTpe2dhKt7PkT_smmbkj5HCwBo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BA7677643FAF4597831586B4C6DB4B35@Roundabout.local>

Originally, a screw base 2.2 volt bulb, but a 12 volt one will work -
especially if you don't have the resistance winding on the lamp socket.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of JohnD
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 11:08 PM
To: MG T List
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp

What sort of bulb fits the socket inside the ignition lamp on the fascia TD?
Thanks.
John Deikis

-- 
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
**MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Sat Mar 26 10:46:54 2011
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 12:46:54 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <-1779381227551867824@unknownmsgid>
References: <-1779381227551867824@unknownmsgid>
Message-ID: <F963F447F86A451186532664A3E08C2B@Roundabout.local>

Use a piece of very sticky tape. Stick it to the glass of the bulb and
gently twist it out while hanging on to the tape.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: MARK SHERMAN [mailto:shrmnmrk at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 11:59 AM
To: Lew Palmer
Cc: JohnD; MG T List
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp

Is there a trick to removing old bulb?


Mark Sherman


On Mar 26, 2011, at 9:59 AM, Lew Palmer <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com> wrote:

> Originally, a screw base 2.2 volt bulb, but a 12 volt one will work -
> especially if you don't have the resistance winding on the lamp socket.
>
> Cheers,
> Lew Palmer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of JohnD
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 11:08 PM
> To: MG T List
> Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
> What sort of bulb fits the socket inside the ignition lamp on the fascia
TD?
> Thanks.
> John Deikis
>
> --
> *Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
> **MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mrkshrmn at hotmail.com

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Sat Mar 26 13:00:56 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (John Deikis)
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 16:00:56 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <BA7677643FAF4597831586B4C6DB4B35@Roundabout.local>
References: <AANLkTim6wv3BNhnKFduTpe2dhKt7PkT_smmbkj5HCwBo@mail.gmail.com>
	<BA7677643FAF4597831586B4C6DB4B35@Roundabout.local>
Message-ID: <D69BDD6F-AF52-4F48-9AA6-44A4E83C05EA@gmail.com>

Thanks, Lew. In looking at my lamp unit, it does not appear to have any
provision for a screw base bulb. The "side terminal" looks like a bayonet type
barrel and the center terminal is down in the bottom, where you would expect.
There is also a spring in the center.  The unit looks like it should take some
sort of bayonet bulb.

Have no idea where this came from. was in the car when I got it.

John



On Mar 26, 2011, at 9:59 AM, "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com>
wrote:

> Originally, a screw base 2.2 volt bulb, but a 12 volt one will work -
> especially if you don't have the resistance winding on the lamp socket.
>
> Cheers,
> Lew Palmer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of JohnD
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 11:08 PM
> To: MG T List
> Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
> What sort of bulb fits the socket inside the ignition lamp on the fascia
TD?
> Thanks.
> John Deikis
>
> --
> *Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
> **MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com

From lawrie at britcars.com  Sat Mar 26 15:35:16 2011
From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander)
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 15:35:16 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
References: <AANLkTim6wv3BNhnKFduTpe2dhKt7PkT_smmbkj5HCwBo@mail.gmail.com><BA7677643FAF4597831586B4C6DB4B35@Roundabout.local>
	<D69BDD6F-AF52-4F48-9AA6-44A4E83C05EA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76F72B174E4B45089A1F346644180DAA@shop>

John,

The repro lamps that Moss sells look very like what you are describing. The 
bulb is  a screw-base bulb but, instead of screwing into the socket, it 
screws into the spring that you see in your socket. Actually, the bulb and 
spring can be removed as a unit. The bulb is held in simply by screwing the 
lens and bezel onto the lamp. The center terminal of the bulb hits the 
contact you saw at the bottom of your socket; the ground is provided by the 
spring wrapped around the bulb and touching the sides of the socket.

Lawrie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Deikis" <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
To: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com>
Cc: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp


> Thanks, Lew. In looking at my lamp unit, it does not appear to have any
> provision for a screw base bulb. The "side terminal" looks like a bayonet 
> type
> barrel and the center terminal is down in the bottom, where you would 
> expect.
> There is also a spring in the center.  The unit looks like it should take 
> some
> sort of bayonet bulb.
>
> Have no idea where this came from. was in the car when I got it.
>
> John
>
>
>
> On Mar 26, 2011, at 9:59 AM, "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Originally, a screw base 2.2 volt bulb, but a 12 volt one will work -
>> especially if you don't have the resistance winding on the lamp socket.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Lew Palmer
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of JohnD
>> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 11:08 PM
>> To: MG T List
>> Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>>
>> What sort of bulb fits the socket inside the ignition lamp on the fascia
> TD?
>> Thanks.
>> John Deikis
>>
>> --
>> *Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
>> **MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie at britcars.com

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Sun Mar 27 20:16:49 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 23:16:49 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <76F72B174E4B45089A1F346644180DAA@shop>
References: <AANLkTim6wv3BNhnKFduTpe2dhKt7PkT_smmbkj5HCwBo@mail.gmail.com>
	<BA7677643FAF4597831586B4C6DB4B35@Roundabout.local>
	<D69BDD6F-AF52-4F48-9AA6-44A4E83C05EA@gmail.com>
	<76F72B174E4B45089A1F346644180DAA@shop>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=cBfepmZ2aZD5iUHoH4Uh-cQ_HVyv2jg2ytx8=@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, everyone. This socket is one of the original ones from the car.  For
some reason, the center terminal was "shorter" than the other two sockets I
had around.  The little screw base bulbs I had been using (which sure did
NOT look like they were correct) would not touch the center terminal when
the bezel was screwed back on. Dug around in my "electro-this-and-that box"
and found a long, narrow bulb of unknown application. It works in my
"defective" socket but it's 4 watts. So, I switched sockets and now have a
REALLY bright low fuel warning lamp! Hope it won't melt the green lens.
-John Deikis

-- 
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
**MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>


On Sat, Mar 26, 2011 at 6:35 PM, Lawrie Alexander <lawrie at britcars.com>wrote:

> John,
>
> The repro lamps that Moss sells look very like what you are describing. The
> bulb is  a screw-base bulb but, instead of screwing into the socket, it
> screws into the spring that you see in your socket. Actually, the bulb and
> spring can be removed as a unit. The bulb is held in simply by screwing the
> lens and bezel onto the lamp. The center terminal of the bulb hits the
> contact you saw at the bottom of your socket; the ground is provided by the
> spring wrapped around the bulb and touching the sides of the socket.
>
> Lawrie
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Deikis" <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
> To: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com>
> Cc: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 1:00 PM
>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
>
>  Thanks, Lew. In looking at my lamp unit, it does not appear to have any
>> provision for a screw base bulb. The "side terminal" looks like a bayonet
>> type
>> barrel and the center terminal is down in the bottom, where you would
>> expect.
>> There is also a spring in the center.  The unit looks like it should take
>> some
>> sort of bayonet bulb.
>>
>> Have no idea where this came from. was in the car when I got it.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 26, 2011, at 9:59 AM, "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Originally, a screw base 2.2 volt bulb, but a 12 volt one will work -
>>> especially if you don't have the resistance winding on the lamp socket.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Lew Palmer
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> On
>>> Behalf Of JohnD
>>> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 11:08 PM
>>> To: MG T List
>>> Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>>>
>>> What sort of bulb fits the socket inside the ignition lamp on the fascia
>>>
>> TD?
>>
>>> Thanks.
>>> John Deikis
>>>
>>> --
>>> *Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
>>> **MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
>>> ______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com
>>>
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie at britcars.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>


-- 
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
**MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Mar 28 07:21:34 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 14:21:34 GMT
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
Message-ID: <20110328.102134.8817.5@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>

  The original socket assembly used a screw-type bulb that was just poked into
the assembly against the spring.   That bayonet-base bulb may have been
someone's effort to find a 2.2 v bulb, or could be that the socket has been
replaced with something different from original. Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: John Deikis <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
To: Lew Palmer <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com>
Cc: MG T List <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 16:00:56 -0400

Thanks, Lew. In looking at my lamp unit, it does not appear to have any
provision for a screw base bulb. The "side terminal" looks like a bayonet
type
barrel and the center terminal is down in the bottom, where you would expect.
There is also a spring in the center.  The unit looks like it should take
some
sort of bayonet bulb.

Have no idea where this came from. was in the car when I got it.

John



On Mar 26, 2011, at 9:59 AM, "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com>
wrote:

> Originally, a screw base 2.2 volt bulb, but a 12 volt one will work -
> especially if you don't have the resistance winding on the lamp socket.
>
> Cheers,
> Lew Palmer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of JohnD
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 11:08 PM
> To: MG T List
> Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
> What sort of bulb fits the socket inside the ignition lamp on the fascia
TD?
> Thanks.
> John Deikis
>
> --
> *Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
> **MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Mar 28 07:56:31 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 14:56:31 GMT
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
Message-ID: <20110328.105631.8817.7@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>

  The resistance wire winding on my fuel indicator lamp lost its continuity
years ago.   What I should have done was to wire a resistor in place to lower
the voltage to the lamp. What I did was to simply jump with a wire.  Thus the
green light is bright, and hot.  When the light first begins to wink, I loosen
the bezel until tank is filled, as I do not want to burn the green lens.
Can someone suggest a bulb that is readily available and a suitable
resistor?Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
To: MG T List <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Cc: Lawrie Alexander <lawrie at britcars.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 23:16:49 -0400

Thanks, everyone. This socket is one of the original ones from the car.  For
some reason, the center terminal was "shorter" than the other two sockets I
had around.  The little screw base bulbs I had been using (which sure did
NOT look like they were correct) would not touch the center terminal when
the bezel was screwed back on. Dug around in my "electro-this-and-that box"
and found a long, narrow bulb of unknown application. It works in my
"defective" socket but it's 4 watts. So, I switched sockets and now have a
REALLY bright low fuel warning lamp! Hope it won't melt the green lens.
-John Deikis

--
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
**MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
t/mgbob at juno.com

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Mon Mar 28 15:57:47 2011
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 11:57:47 +1300
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <20110328.105631.8817.7@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110328.105631.8817.7@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA59@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

Your lens is green? Mine is blue! What should it be? Don't want to miss
out on that 0.00001 of a point at the next concourse!

Douglas

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mgbob at juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, 29 March 2011 3:57 a.m.
To: johnsfolly at gmail.com
Cc: lawrie at britcars.com; mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp

  The resistance wire winding on my fuel indicator lamp lost its
continuity
years ago.   What I should have done was to wire a resistor in place to
lower
the voltage to the lamp. What I did was to simply jump with a wire.
Thus the
green light is bright, and hot.  When the light first begins to wink, I
loosen
the bezel until tank is filled, as I do not want to burn the green lens.
Can someone suggest a bulb that is readily available and a suitable
resistor?Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
To: MG T List <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Cc: Lawrie Alexander <lawrie at britcars.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 23:16:49 -0400

Thanks, everyone. This socket is one of the original ones from the car.
For
some reason, the center terminal was "shorter" than the other two
sockets I
had around.  The little screw base bulbs I had been using (which sure
did
NOT look like they were correct) would not touch the center terminal
when
the bezel was screwed back on. Dug around in my "electro-this-and-that
box"
and found a long, narrow bulb of unknown application. It works in my
"defective" socket but it's 4 watts. So, I switched sockets and now have
a
REALLY bright low fuel warning lamp! Hope it won't melt the green lens.
-John Deikis

--
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
**MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>
t/mgbob at juno.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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rg.nz


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From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Mar 28 17:19:17 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 19:19:17 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA59@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
References: <20110328.105631.8817.7@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA59@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <4D912585.7050805@justbrits.com>

<< ...miss out on that 0.00001 of a point at the next concourse! >>

They only go to tenths at Shopping Malls, Doug !!
Ditto in the buildings like they have in downtown Chicago that
have them running around 'top[s]' of lobbies !

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Mon Mar 28 17:34:47 2011
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 13:34:47 +1300
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <4D912585.7050805@justbrits.com>
References: <20110328.105631.8817.7@webmail11.vgs.untd.com><D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA59@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
	<4D912585.7050805@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA5D@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

Combination of dyslexia and spell chacker, chucker, chocker, checker!

And for your entertainment here are pictures of the last Ellerslie, New
Zealand Concours

http://www.classiccar.co.nz/tag/intermarque-concours-delegance

The red MGA twin cam belongs to a friend of mine. He spent a decade
restoring it, drove it for the first time to the Concours, came 6th and
blew his rear end on the way home - he had forgotten to put oil in it!

Douglas

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
Sent: Tuesday, 29 March 2011 1:19 p.m.
Cc: Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp

<< ...miss out on that 0.00001 of a point at the next concourse! >>

They only go to tenths at Shopping Malls, Doug !!
Ditto in the buildings like they have in downtown Chicago that
have them running around 'top[s]' of lobbies !
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Mon Mar 28 18:28:25 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 21:28:25 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA5D@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
References: <20110328.105631.8817.7@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA59@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
	<4D912585.7050805@justbrits.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA5D@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinbY-SG-5y25vo+CCOZUv55EF0ypg@mail.gmail.com>

THAT is a sad story!
It's what orange surveyor's tape is for. Anything left "undone" for another
day is assumed to be easily forgotten and marked with a big bow of orange
ribbon.
John Deikis
-- 
*Running the Rallye to Reno in a '53 MG TD*
**MG Drive for CURE <http://www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com>




> -----Original Message-----
>
 red MGA twin cam belongs to a friend of mine. He spent a decade
restoring it, drove it for the first time to the Concours, came 6th and
blew his rear end on the way home - he had forgotten to put oil in it!

Douglas

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Mar 28 20:30:01 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 22:30:01 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TF on Ebay, NFI
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT124-W204A00F8220F0EB98B9273B7B10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4D915239.3060207@justbrits.com>

Didn't sell at $ 13,990.00 so it's been 're-listed' <G>, Mike !!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120703946532

Chap 'needs' to do some more WORK methinks !!  LOL !

Ed

From PopeyMike at aol.com  Wed Mar 30 14:54:06 2011
From: PopeyMike at aol.com (PopeyMike at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 17:54:06 EDT
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
Message-ID: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>

So gentlemen:
 
What is most important?  A concourse that only a few will see?
OR
Driving down the street with the top down and oil in the differential,  
motor rumbling the MG sound, while the beautiful ladies gauk at you?
 
I prefer missing the concourse.
 
Michael Balahutrak
53 TD
Houston, TX
____________________________
 
 
In a message dated 3/28/2011 7:35:06 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz writes:

Combination of dyslexia and spell chacker, chucker, chocker,  checker!

And for your entertainment here are pictures of the last  Ellerslie, New
Zealand  Concours

http://www.classiccar.co.nz/tag/intermarque-concours-delegance

The  red MGA twin cam belongs to a friend of mine. He spent a decade
restoring  it, drove it for the first time to the Concours, came 6th and
blew his rear  end on the way home - he had forgotten to put oil in  it!

Douglas

-----Original Message-----
From:  mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf  Of Shop at " Just Brits "
Sent: Tuesday, 29 March 2011 1:19 p.m.
Cc:  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp

<< ...miss out on that 0.00001  of a point at the next concourse! >>

They only go to tenths at  Shopping Malls, Doug !!
Ditto in the buildings like they have in downtown  Chicago that
have them running around 'top[s]' of lobbies  !
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From arundell at ghs.com.au  Wed Mar 30 15:25:29 2011
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 08:25:29 +1000
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>
References: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C494E98-F5F0-4B2D-BD49-E4158F187DF4@ghs.com.au>

I vote Mike for President......

Was cured of the concours disease a number of years ago and am still  
going strong.

Murray Arundell
Brisbane Australia

On 31/03/2011, at 7:54 AM, PopeyMike at aol.com wrote:

> So gentlemen:
>
> What is most important?  A concourse that only a few will see?
> OR
> Driving down the street with the top down and oil in the differential,
> motor rumbling the MG sound, while the beautiful ladies gauk at you?
>
> I prefer missing the concourse.
>
> Michael Balahutrak
> 53 TD
> Houston, TX
> ____________________________
>
>
> In a message dated 3/28/2011 7:35:06 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz writes:
>
> Combination of dyslexia and spell chacker, chucker, chocker,  checker!
>
> And for your entertainment here are pictures of the last  Ellerslie,  
> New
> Zealand  Concours
>
> http://www.classiccar.co.nz/tag/intermarque-concours-delegance
>
> The  red MGA twin cam belongs to a friend of mine. He spent a decade
> restoring  it, drove it for the first time to the Concours, came 6th  
> and
> blew his rear  end on the way home - he had forgotten to put oil in   
> it!
>
> Douglas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:  mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf  Of Shop at " Just Brits "
> Sent: Tuesday, 29 March 2011 1:19 p.m.
> Cc:  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
> << ...miss out on that 0.00001  of a point at the next concourse! >>
>
> They only go to tenths at  Shopping Malls, Doug !!
> Ditto in the buildings like they have in downtown  Chicago that
> have them running around 'top[s]' of lobbies  !
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation   $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/douglas.ormrod at neurological.o
> rg.nz
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> _
> _
>
> This  email has been scrubbed for your protection by SMX.
> For more information  visit  http://smxemail.com
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> _
> _
> ______________________________________________
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From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Mar 30 15:04:23 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 17:04:23 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>
References: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4D93A8E7.3010608@justbrits.com>

<< A concourse that only a few will see? >>

Gee Mike, MILLIONS 'see' "The Mall of the Americas" !!!

<snip>

<< I prefer missing the concourse. >>

I ALSO *HATE* going to malls to shop.  UGH!!!

Ed

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 30 16:22:57 2011
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:22:57 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Ignition_lamp?=
Message-ID: <20110330232248.55B5918766D@autox.team.net>

How's that Holden  V-8 5 speeder SA going , Murray?
;-)
R

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Murray Arundell" <arundell at ghs.com.au>
Date: Wed, Mar 30, 2011 17:25
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
To: <PopeyMike at aol.com>
Cc: <Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz>, <mg-t at autox.team.net>


I vote Mike for President......

Was cured of the concours disease a number of years ago and am still going strong.

Murray Arundell
Brisbane Australia

On 31/03/2011, at 7:54 AM, PopeyMike at aol.com wrote:

> So gentlemen:
>
> What is most important?  A concourse that only a few will see?
> OR
> Driving down the street with the top down and oil in the differential,
> motor rumbling the MG sound, while the beautiful ladies gauk at you?
>
> I prefer missing the concourse.
>
> Michael Balahutrak
> 53 TD
> Houston, TX
> ____________________________
>
>
> In a message dated 3/28/2011 7:35:06 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz writes:
>
> Combination of dyslexia and spell chacker, chucker, chocker,  checker!
>
> And for your entertainment here are pictures of the last  Ellerslie, > New
> Zealand  Concours
>
> http://www.classiccar.co.nz/tag/intermarque-concours-delegance
>
> The  red MGA twin cam belongs to a friend of mine. He spent a decade
> restoring  it, drove it for the first time to the Concours, came 6th > and
> blew his rear  end on the way home - he had forgotten to put oil in  > it!
>
> Douglas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:  mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf  Of Shop at " Just Brits "
> Sent: Tuesday, 29 March 2011 1:19 p.m.
> Cc:  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
> << ...miss out on that 0.00001  of a point at the next concourse! >>
>
> They only go to tenths at  Shopping Malls, Doug !!
> Ditto in the buildings like they have in downtown  Chicago that
> have them running around 'top[s]' of lobbies  !
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation   $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/douglas.ormrod at neurological.o
> rg.nz

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Wed Mar 30 17:05:17 2011
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:05:17 +1300
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>
References: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA69@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

Well I only did concours for the first year post resto in 2006 - not
anal enough to keep it up. Now I drive it to work.

American women must be more discerning that NZ shelias  - here only
small children and old men wave to me.

Douglas



________________________________

From: PopeyMike at aol.com [mailto:PopeyMike at aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, 31 March 2011 10:54 a.m.
To: Douglas Ormrod; shop at justbrits.com; mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp



So gentlemen:



What is most important?  A concourse that only a few will see?

OR

Driving down the street with the top down and oil in the differential,
motor rumbling the MG sound, while the beautiful ladies gauk at you?



I prefer missing the concourse.



Michael Balahutrak

53 TD

Houston, TX

____________________________



In a message dated 3/28/2011 7:35:06 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz writes:

	Combination of dyslexia and spell chacker, chucker, chocker,
checker!

	And for your entertainment here are pictures of the last
Ellerslie, New
	Zealand Concours

	http://www.classiccar.co.nz/tag/intermarque-concours-delegance

	The red MGA twin cam belongs to a friend of mine. He spent a
decade
	restoring it, drove it for the first time to the Concours, came
6th and
	blew his rear end on the way home - he had forgotten to put oil
in it!

	Douglas

	-----Original Message-----
	From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
	On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
	Sent: Tuesday, 29 March 2011 1:19 p.m.
	Cc: Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp

	<< ...miss out on that 0.00001 of a point at the next concourse!
>>

	They only go to tenths at Shopping Malls, Doug !!
	Ditto in the buildings like they have in downtown Chicago that
	have them running around 'top[s]' of lobbies !
	______________________________________________

	Mg-t at autox.team.net
	Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
	Suggested annual donation  $11.47
	Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
	Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
	Unsubscribe/Manage:

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/douglas.ormrod at neurological.o
	rg.nz



________________________________________________________________________
_____
	_

	This email has been scrubbed for your protection by SMX.
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________________________________________________________________________
_____
	_
	______________________________________________

	Mg-t at autox.team.net
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From arundell at ghs.com.au  Wed Mar 30 17:16:04 2011
From: arundell at ghs.com.au (Murray Arundell)
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 10:16:04 +1000
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA69@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
References: <d253.f3dc57.3ac5007e@aol.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4417CA69@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <212C1240-48D7-4B28-8369-23ADD1DBFAC2@ghs.com.au>

Don't worry about it Doug, its the same here in Oz......
Although I do recall one day when a delightful & expensive look sweet  
young thing was waving at me from her man's Porsche.  He was  
singularly unimpressed as she did.... :)

Murray Arundell
Brisbane Aus

On 31/03/2011, at 10:05 AM, Douglas Ormrod wrote:

> Well I only did concours for the first year post resto in 2006 - not
> anal enough to keep it up. Now I drive it to work.
>
> American women must be more discerning that NZ shelias  - here only
> small children and old men wave to me.
>
> Douglas
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: PopeyMike at aol.com [mailto:PopeyMike at aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 31 March 2011 10:54 a.m.
> To: Douglas Ormrod; shop at justbrits.com; mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
>
>
> So gentlemen:
>
>
>
> What is most important?  A concourse that only a few will see?
>
> OR
>
> Driving down the street with the top down and oil in the differential,
> motor rumbling the MG sound, while the beautiful ladies gauk at you?
>
>
>
> I prefer missing the concourse.
>
>
>
> Michael Balahutrak
>
> 53 TD
>
> Houston, TX
>
> ____________________________
>
>
>
> In a message dated 3/28/2011 7:35:06 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz writes:
>
> 	Combination of dyslexia and spell chacker, chucker, chocker,
> checker!
>
> 	And for your entertainment here are pictures of the last
> Ellerslie, New
> 	Zealand Concours
>
> 	http://www.classiccar.co.nz/tag/intermarque-concours-delegance
>
> 	The red MGA twin cam belongs to a friend of mine. He spent a
> decade
> 	restoring it, drove it for the first time to the Concours, came
> 6th and
> 	blew his rear end on the way home - he had forgotten to put oil
> in it!
>
> 	Douglas
>
> 	-----Original Message-----
> 	From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
> 	On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
> 	Sent: Tuesday, 29 March 2011 1:19 p.m.
> 	Cc: Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition lamp
>
> 	<< ...miss out on that 0.00001 of a point at the next concourse!
>>>
>
> 	They only go to tenths at Shopping Malls, Doug !!
> 	Ditto in the buildings like they have in downtown Chicago that
> 	have them running around 'top[s]' of lobbies !
> 	______________________________________________
>
> 	Mg-t at autox.team.net
> 	Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 	Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> 	Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> 	Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 	Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/douglas.ormrod at neurological.o
> 	rg.nz
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> _____
> 	_
>
> 	This email has been scrubbed for your protection by SMX.
> 	For more information visit http://smxemail.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> _____
> 	_
> 	______________________________________________
>
> 	Mg-t at autox.team.net
> 	Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 	Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> 	Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> 	Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 	Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/popeymike at aol.com
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________________________
> _
>
> This email has been scrubbed for your protection by SMX.
> For more information visit http://smxemail.com
> _____________________________________________________________________________
> _
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/arundell at ghs.com.au

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Mar 31 20:22:32 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 22:22:32 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] WHERE was...................
Message-ID: <4D9544F8.2060701@justbrits.com>

......this link when it was WHITE stuff up to

our.............................s??

*ht*tp://tinyurl.com/4uta8qh

or*
*
http://reviews.cnet.com/2300-10863_7-10004657.html?s=0&o=10004657&tag=mncol;page

cNet 'reported' these "cars" are the "funniest ever" and page IS titled
"LOL" <G> !!!  A couple, maybe ?!?      ENJOY !!!

_______________________________________________
9issa mailing list
9issa at box267.bluehost.com
http://box267.bluehost.com/mailman/listinfo/9issa_justbrits.com
http://www.justbrits.com

From 1939mgtb at comcast.net  Wed Mar 30 10:52:39 2011
From: 1939mgtb at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?MTkzOW1ndGJAY29tY2FzdC5uZXQ=?=)
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:52:39 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Wing_brace?=
Message-ID: <20110330175233.1D33B187672@autox.team.net>

We're looking for a pair of ta front wing braces.
Don't know if they are the same as a tc.  
Ray 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone