From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Mon Jul  4 11:08:55 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 13:08:55 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Abandoned in Dodge City
Message-ID: <CABFJSR1Qyq=Uoa4W-jJEx88DaFK9krGQrPzS_QyL+B=EEevS9w@mail.gmail.com>

Ive gotten several emails asking what happened to my TD in Dodge City
during the Rallye to Reno.  The motor Manley Ford built ran like gangbusters
all day long for 4 days, the last of which was 12 hours at 4000-4500 RPM
with air temp at 106 deg. F.  The car never exceeded 85 deg. C. water
temperature and the B&G rear seal he put in deported itself exceptionally.
Unfortunately, the last few very hot hours before Dodge City took  its toll
on the coil and then the SU fuel pump and then I developed an intermittent
miss under load. After many hours in the parking lot of the Dodge House
Hotel trying to diagnose that, and having checked or replaced EVERYTHING
electrical, the TD rewarded me just before midnight with a metallic valve
train sound that had not been there all day. Conferring with several others,
and in view of the rally departure time just a few hours away, I decided to
not risk pushing on over the Rockies and across the desert with that sound,
and left the car in Dodge, completing the rally riding with others.



So: good news/bad news. The TD came back to Michigan on a trailer. The
metallic sopund?... a misaligned rocker cover touching one of the valve
keepers. After checking for a broken valve spring and adjusting the valve
lash in Dodge City, the cover got replaced a bit cock-eyed and tightened
down.  [Pause while I put a screwdriver through my left eye].  Good news: it
was not a sticking tappet or push rod or valve guide. The motor ran great.
Bad news: I still have the Dodge City miss and that will need to get
sorted out. In the mean time, I have a Spridget race motor to assemble for
MG Vintage Racers East Coast Focus Event at Lime Rock. Life remains an
adventure!



John Deikis

Chelsea, MI

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Mon Jul 11 11:06:23 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 13:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Occasional engine miss
Message-ID: <CABFJSR0W9MHp==5q3MLj5r7VPQ3Kp=C104Gng-rgf3LOh9wh-w@mail.gmail.com>

On a longish drive yesterday I started to experience an occasional miss or
"breaking up" of the engine in my TD, usually on accelleration.
Oddly, it was accompanied by a flickering of the GEN light on the dash. I'll
bet that's a clue.
Any initial thoughts where I might start looking?
Thanks in advance.
John Deikis
Chelsea, MI
-- 
*Driving in the past lane!*
JohnsfollyVintageRacing <http://www.johnsfolly.webs.com>

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Jul 11 12:10:53 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 18:10:53 GMT
Subject: [Mg-t] Occasional engine miss
Message-ID: <20110711.141053.1748.2@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>

Begin at the earth terminal on the battery, check it from battery connection
to body, then earth connection from chassis to gearbox, then go over all  the
accessible connections.
It's probably out there where you can find it; less likely that it's in the
shadows behind the panel.
Best of luck.
Bob
--


-------- Original Message ----------
From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
To: MG T List <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Occasional engine miss
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 13:06:23 -0400

On a longish drive yesterday I started to experience an occasional miss or
"breaking up" of the engine in my TD, usually on accelleration.
Oddly, it was accompanied by a flickering of the GEN light on the dash. I'll
bet that's a clue.
Any initial thoughts where I might start looking?
Thanks in advance.
John Deikis
Chelsea, MI
--
*Driving in the past lane!*
JohnsfollyVintageRacing <http://www.johnsfolly.webs.com>
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob at juno.com

From scvc70 at epix.net  Fri Jul 15 09:26:28 2011
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 11:26:28 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] wiper motor conversion
Message-ID: <0AFE13D8167F4419B6C062C54EDFE64A@valuedea617bbe>

Has anyone moved an early TD's wiper motor from the passenger side to the
center of the windscreen--like the later cars--by just drilling more holes in
the proper places, rather than obtaining a later-style top bar for the
windscreen frame?  I've found nothing on the subject in the Archives.

If anyone's done this, can you tell us where the new holes should be drilled,
and what extra bits (besides a new connecting bar) are required, or any other
useful tips?  After nearly 40 years of having my view blocked when a
passenger, I've had enough..........


Thanks in advance,
Sarah Carr
TD3942EXLU in PA

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Fri Jul 15 10:09:28 2011
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 09:09:28 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] wiper motor conversion
In-Reply-To: <0AFE13D8167F4419B6C062C54EDFE64A@valuedea617bbe>
References: <0AFE13D8167F4419B6C062C54EDFE64A@valuedea617bbe>
Message-ID: <014FC54B-E689-4366-BD1C-0954634567D6@earthlink.net>

You will have to have the center portion of the windshield glass cut  
down,
for the wiper shaft and posts to clear the glass. If you can find  
some more
of the spacers that keep the windshield frame from compressing in on the
glass, that also would be a good addition. The wiper wire exits the same
location. The later windshields had a couple of clips, that held the  
wire from
the exit point, to the center wiper location.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jul 15, 2011, at 8:26 AM, Carr&Edwards wrote:

> Has anyone moved an early TD's wiper motor from the passenger side  
> to the
> center of the windscreen--like the later cars--by just drilling  
> more holes in
> the proper places, rather than obtaining a later-style top bar for the
> windscreen frame?  I've found nothing on the subject in the Archives.
>
> If anyone's done this, can you tell us where the new holes should  
> be drilled,
> and what extra bits (besides a new connecting bar) are required, or  
> any other
> useful tips?  After nearly 40 years of having my view blocked when a
> passenger, I've had enough..........
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Sarah Carr
> TD3942EXLU in PA
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ 
> kingseim at earthlink.net

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 17 20:04:38 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 21:04:38 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
Message-ID: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>

greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to almost
80.

we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later weather.com says
the ambient temperature is 90

we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 15
minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one cycle
or less.

fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it.  it
was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 minute
drive home.

vapor lock?

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Sun Jul 17 20:52:22 2011
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (John Deikis)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:52:22 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
In-Reply-To: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <0175E39B-E318-4DF8-AD34-1FDD7816102B@gmail.com>

Sounds like the typical fuel percolation problem. Is this the first time you
have experienced this in Texas?!  A handful of crushed ice on top of each
float bowl would have solved the problem. Usually you can get started if you
don't ask for more than an idle. Then as cooler gas gets into the carbs, your
running will even out.

-John


On Jul 17, 2011, at 10:04 PM, "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to
almost
> 80.
>
> we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later weather.com
says
> the ambient temperature is 90
>
> we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 15
> minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one
cycle
> or less.
>
> fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it.  it
> was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 minute
> drive home.
>
> vapor lock?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/johnsfolly at gmail.com

From lawrie at britcars.com  Sun Jul 17 21:05:15 2011
From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 20:05:15 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <697E34D74F4446D5865912846835BAE6@shop>

Oliver,

The new fuels which have ethanol in them vaporize more easily than gas used 
to. The heat of the engine is transmitted via the manifold studs directly 
into the carburetors so you end up trying to re-start the engine with fuel 
that's not mixing with the air the way it should. This problem has affected 
lots of folks in recent years.

The cure I've found is to insulate the carbs from the manifold with spacers 
like the TF, MGA, MGB, etc. used. If you have 1-12" carbs you can use TF 
spacers and studs to replace the TD bolts (and new gaskets, of course). If 
you have 1-1/4" carbs, I have a local supplier of the correct size spacers 
which we had made up to solve this very problem on TCs and TDs. They're not 
cheap ($30 a pair, as they were custom-made in a small run) and you still 
need to buy 4 gaskets and studs and nuts, but they really do eliminate the 
problem.

Lawrie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting


> greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to 
> almost
> 80.
>
> we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later weather.com 
> says
> the ambient temperature is 90
>
> we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 15
> minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one 
> cycle
> or less.
>
> fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it. 
> it
> was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 minute
> drive home.
>
> vapor lock?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie at britcars.com

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Sun Jul 17 21:30:55 2011
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John F. Quilter)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 20:30:55 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
	<697E34D74F4446D5865912846835BAE6@shop>
Message-ID: <96C98A6B1B414AA4B3F10E40D36A4A97@JQLT070909>

Would some pipe insulation wrapped around the float bowls help?  And maybe a 
rubber hose sleeve over the fuel line on the bulkhead leading to the fuel 
pump?

John Quilter
'51 TD
Eugene, Oregon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lawrie Alexander" <lawrie at britcars.com>
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] trouble starting


> Oliver,
>
> The new fuels which have ethanol in them vaporize more easily than gas 
> used to. The heat of the engine is transmitted via the manifold studs 
> directly into the carburetors so you end up trying to re-start the engine 
> with fuel that's not mixing with the air the way it should. This problem 
> has affected lots of folks in recent years.
>
> The cure I've found is to insulate the carbs from the manifold with 
> spacers like the TF, MGA, MGB, etc. used. If you have 1-12" carbs you can 
> use TF spacers and studs to replace the TD bolts (and new gaskets, of 
> course). If you have 1-1/4" carbs, I have a local supplier of the correct 
> size spacers which we had made up to solve this very problem on TCs and 
> TDs. They're not cheap ($30 a pair, as they were custom-made in a small 
> run) and you still need to buy 4 gaskets and studs and nuts, but they 
> really do eliminate the problem.
>
> Lawrie
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
> Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
>
>
>> greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to 
>> almost
>> 80.
>>
>> we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later weather.com 
>> says
>> the ambient temperature is 90
>>
>> we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 15
>> minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one 
>> cycle
>> or less.
>>
>> fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it. 
>> it
>> was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 minute
>> drive home.
>>
>> vapor lock?
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie at britcars.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/jquilter at peoplepc.com

From rgmorse at mzaconsulting.com  Sun Jul 17 22:18:04 2011
From: rgmorse at mzaconsulting.com (rgmorse)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 21:18:04 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
In-Reply-To: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <11475D1DDC9095489D7ED8BAA0FA7AB602E9E6E0@EXVBE011-2.exch011.intermedia.net>

Hi Oliver,
I have exactly the same problem when driving on a hot sunny day.  This
was diagnosed as fuel evaporating from the carburetor float bowl that is
conveniently located directly above the exhaust manifold.  The manifold
heats up the float bowl and more or less boils away the gas.  Once you
start going again you have to get enough fresh gas through the float
bowl to cool it enough to stop the boiling.  That is why it stutters and
runs poorly for a while.

When I start the car after parking it the first thing I do is to let the
fuel pump run until it stops ticking.  This refills the empty float
bowl.  Usually this lets me get the car started, especially if I pull
the choke out.  The problem is that the car is running lean because of
the gas boiling, so pulling the choke out helps.  I also find it is
necessary to run at well above idle, like in the range of 2000 rpm until
things settle down.  I run the car with no load, sit and let it run,
until it is running normally, with the choke back in, and at normal
idle, as I worry that running it while it is stuttering because of
running lean could damage the engine if it is under load.

This works for me when it is sunny and in the mid to upper 80's, but
then again I am in upstate NY and not in the heat of Texas.

I am hoping that the ultimate solution will be a heat shield that Brown
and Gammons sells that protects the float bowl from the heat of the
manifold.  It is their part number GAC1036 "Heatshield TC, TD, TF".  I
got one, but have not gotten around to putting it in yet.

Hope this all helps
Roger in Poestenkill, NY


Roger G. Morse AIA
Morse Zehnter Associates
rgmorse at mzaconsulting.com

New York:
Rensselaer Technology Park
165 Jordan Road
Troy, NY 12180
(518) 283-7671
Fax: (518) 283-9855

Florida:
580 Village Blvd.
Suite 110
West Palm Beach, FL 33409
(561) 712-4777
Fax: (561) 712-4677


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 10:05 PM
To: MG-T
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting

greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to
almost 80.

we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later
weather.com says the ambient temperature is 90

we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 -
15 minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe
one cycle or less.

fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it.
it was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15
minute drive home.

vapor lock?
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rgmorse at morse-associates.com

From lkarpman at tx.rr.com  Sun Jul 17 22:55:48 2011
From: lkarpman at tx.rr.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 23:55:48 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
In-Reply-To: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <D489F73AE0AB41EFAF3AABE958EC75F0@LarryPC>

I'm in the DFW area too. In the extreme heat, I just pull the
choke when I start it after sitting less than 30 minutes, and tap, tap, tap
the gas pedal and the engine will smooth out rapidly in less than 20
seconds. No need to push start.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 9:04 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting


> greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to 
> almost
> 80.
>
> we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later weather.com 
> says
> the ambient temperature is 90
>
> we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 15
> minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one 
> cycle
> or less.
>
> fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it. 
> it
> was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 minute
> drive home.
>
> vapor lock?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lkarpman at tx.rr.com

From crownwheel at comcast.net  Mon Jul 18 04:33:32 2011
From: crownwheel at comcast.net (Gene)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 06:33:32 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
In-Reply-To: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <004601cc4536$25ad80e0$710882a0$@net>

Good day folks ... As noted, vapor lock is the culprit. 
There are a number of fixes and some very simple. I installed a heat-sink at
the suggestion of an engineer. My heat-sink installation is nothing fancy.
The heat sinks are 3 wooden clothes pins clipped at the point where the fuel
leaves the pump, another at the point where the fuel line enters each bowl.
After 10 years I have never had a vapor lock problem.
If nothing else, they are great conversation openers at a car show.
Cheers
Gene 53 TD
Vermont

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 10:05 PM
To: MG-T
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting

greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to
almost
80.

we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later weather.com
says
the ambient temperature is 90

we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 15
minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one
cycle
or less.

fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it.  it
was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 minute
drive home.

vapor lock?
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/crownwheel at comcast.net

From lawrie at britcars.com  Mon Jul 18 07:20:50 2011
From: lawrie at britcars.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?lawrie?=)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 05:20:50 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] =?iso-8859-1?q?trouble_starting?=
In-Reply-To: <D489F73AE0AB41EFAF3AABE958EC75F0@LarryPC>
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
	<D489F73AE0AB41EFAF3AABE958EC75F0@LarryPC>
Message-ID: <20110718132050.10600.qmail@s417.sureserver.com>

Lawrence,

Any idea why your "tap, tap, tap the gas pedal" contributes to the re-start? Since there are no accelerator pumps on SU carburetors, doing that surely does nothing more than exercise your ankle?

Lawrie


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Lawrence Karpman <lkarpman at tx.rr.com>
>  To: MG-T <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] trouble starting
>  Sent: 17 Jul '11 20:55
>  
>  I'm in the DFW area too. In the extreme heat, I just pull the
>  choke when I start it after sitting less than 30 minutes, and tap, tap, tap
>  the gas pedal and the engine will smooth out rapidly in less than 20
>  seconds. No need to push start.
>  
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
>  To: "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>  Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 9:04 PM
>  Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
>  
>  
>  > greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops to
>  > almost
>  > 80.
>  >
>  > we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later weather.com
>  > says
>  > the ambient temperature is 90
>  >
>  > we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 15
>  > minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one
>  > cycle
>  > or less.
>  >
>  > fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it.
>  > it
>  > was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 minute
>  > drive home.
>  >
>  > vapor lock?
>  > ______________________________________________
>  >
>  > Mg-t at autox.team.net
>  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  > Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lkarpman at tx.rr.com
>  ______________________________________________
>  
>  Mg-t at autox.team.net
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From lawrie at britcars.com  Mon Jul 18 07:33:22 2011
From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 06:33:22 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
	<697E34D74F4446D5865912846835BAE6@shop>
	<11475D1DDC9095489D7ED8BAA0FA7AB602E9E6DC@EXVBE011-2.exch011.intermedia.net>
Message-ID: <FA303A0C837B4388AB1354658B3EAD42@shop>

Roger,

A check for $35, payable to Brian Sonner, mailed to 2700 Sleepy Hollow 
Court, Placerville, CA 95667-4222 will cover the cost of a pair of spacers, 
4 gaskets and postage. You will need to buy 4 metric studs, 10mm x 1.5 pitch 
x 1-1/2" long and 4 nuts for the studs from your local auto parts store, 
then you are good to go.

We had actually tried a heat shield and wrapping the float bowls with 
insulating material but found no relief from the hot-start problem till we 
used the spacers. Apparently, it's the heat being transmitted directly from 
the hot engine into the carb bodies via the contact between the manifold and 
the carb flanges that causes the excessive heating of the fuel.

Thanks!

Lawrie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rgmorse" <rgmorse at mzaconsulting.com>
To: "Lawrie Alexander" <lawrie at britcars.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 9:03 PM
Subject: RE: [Mg-t] trouble starting


Hi Lawrie,
How does one go about getting a set of spacers?  They are a terrific
idea.  That along with the B&G heat shield should pretty much do the
job.

Roger

Roger G. Morse AIA
Morse Zehnter Associates
rgmorse at mzaconsulting.com

New York:
Rensselaer Technology Park
165 Jordan Road
Troy, NY 12180
(518) 283-7671
Fax: (518) 283-9855

Florida:
580 Village Blvd.
Suite 110
West Palm Beach, FL 33409
(561) 712-4777
Fax: (561) 712-4677


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Lawrie Alexander
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 11:05 PM
To: oliver; MG-T
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] trouble starting

Oliver,

The new fuels which have ethanol in them vaporize more easily than gas
used to. The heat of the engine is transmitted via the manifold studs
directly into the carburetors so you end up trying to re-start the
engine with fuel that's not mixing with the air the way it should. This
problem has affected lots of folks in recent years.

The cure I've found is to insulate the carbs from the manifold with
spacers like the TF, MGA, MGB, etc. used. If you have 1-12" carbs you
can use TF spacers and studs to replace the TD bolts (and new gaskets,
of course). If you have 1-1/4" carbs, I have a local supplier of the
correct size spacers which we had made up to solve this very problem on
TCs and TDs. They're not cheap ($30 a pair, as they were custom-made in
a small run) and you still need to buy 4 gaskets and studs and nuts, but
they really do eliminate the problem.

Lawrie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting


> greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops
to
> almost
> 80.
>
> we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later
weather.com
> says
> the ambient temperature is 90
>
> we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 -
15
> minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe
one
> cycle
> or less.
>
> fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start
it.
> it
> was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15
minute
> drive home.
>
> vapor lock?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie at britcars.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rgmorse at morse-associates.com

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Mon Jul 18 08:27:14 2011
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:27:14 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
In-Reply-To: <FA303A0C837B4388AB1354658B3EAD42@shop>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP44F8E5107C2B6248CC17FE924A0@phx.gbl>

Hi Lawrie, how thick are the 1 1/4" bore plastic spacers and can they be
fitted onto a TC with the original air cleaner?
Thanks, Bob Grunau, Canada

Roger,
A check for $35, payable to Brian Sonner, mailed to 2700 Sleepy Hollow
Court, Placerville, CA 95667-4222 will cover the cost of a pair of spacers,
4 gaskets and postage. You will need to buy 4 metric studs, 10mm x 1.5 pitch
x 1-1/2" long and 4 nuts for the studs from your local auto parts store,
then you are good to go.

We had actually tried a heat shield and wrapping the float bowls with
insulating material but found no relief from the hot-start problem till we
used the spacers. Apparently, it's the heat being transmitted directly from
the hot engine into the carb bodies via the contact between the manifold and
the carb flanges that causes the excessive heating of the fuel.
Thanks!  Lawrie

Hi Lawrie,
How does one go about getting a set of spacers?  They are a terrific
idea.  That along with the B&G heat shield should pretty much do the
job.  Roger
Oliver,

The new fuels which have ethanol in them vaporize more easily than gas
used to. The heat of the engine is transmitted via the manifold studs
directly into the carburetors so you end up trying to re-start the
engine with fuel that's not mixing with the air the way it should. This
problem has affected lots of folks in recent years.

The cure I've found is to insulate the carbs from the manifold with
spacers like the TF, MGA, MGB, etc. used. If you have 1-12" carbs you
can use TF spacers and studs to replace the TD bolts (and new gaskets,
of course). If you have 1-1/4" carbs, I have a local supplier of the
correct size spacers which we had made up to solve this very problem on
TCs and TDs. They're not cheap ($30 a pair, as they were custom-made in
a small run) and you still need to buy 4 gaskets and studs and nuts, but
they really do eliminate the problem.

Lawrie
 greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops
to almost 80. we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour later
weather.com says the ambient temperature is 90 we drove the car for about
10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 -
15 minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one
cycle or less.
 fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it.  it
was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15
minute drive home. vapor lock?

From lawrie at britcars.com  Mon Jul 18 08:25:11 2011
From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:25:11 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
References: <BLU0-SMTP44F8E5107C2B6248CC17FE924A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DE41EDC7BB894DA1B52C177EF0758D5B@shop>

Bob,

I believe they are .225" thick. I know they work on a TC with an original 
air cleaner as I fitted a set to mine and have no interference between the 
plenum and the bonnet side panel. Also, no more hot-start problems .....

Cheers,

Lawrie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BOB GRUNAU" <grunau.garage at sympatico.ca>
To: "Lawrie Alexander" <lawrie at britcars.com>; "rgmorse" 
<rgmorse at mzaconsulting.com>
Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 7:27 AM
Subject: RE: [Mg-t] trouble starting


> Hi Lawrie, how thick are the 1 1/4" bore plastic spacers and can they be
> fitted onto a TC with the original air cleaner?
> Thanks, Bob Grunau, Canada
>
> Roger,
> A check for $35, payable to Brian Sonner, mailed to 2700 Sleepy Hollow
> Court, Placerville, CA 95667-4222 will cover the cost of a pair of 
> spacers,
> 4 gaskets and postage. You will need to buy 4 metric studs, 10mm x 1.5 
> pitch
> x 1-1/2" long and 4 nuts for the studs from your local auto parts store,
> then you are good to go.
>
> We had actually tried a heat shield and wrapping the float bowls with
> insulating material but found no relief from the hot-start problem till we
> used the spacers. Apparently, it's the heat being transmitted directly 
> from
> the hot engine into the carb bodies via the contact between the manifold 
> and
> the carb flanges that causes the excessive heating of the fuel.
> Thanks!  Lawrie
>
> Hi Lawrie,
> How does one go about getting a set of spacers?  They are a terrific
> idea.  That along with the B&G heat shield should pretty much do the
> job.  Roger
> Oliver,
>
> The new fuels which have ethanol in them vaporize more easily than gas
> used to. The heat of the engine is transmitted via the manifold studs
> directly into the carburetors so you end up trying to re-start the
> engine with fuel that's not mixing with the air the way it should. This
> problem has affected lots of folks in recent years.
>
> The cure I've found is to insulate the carbs from the manifold with
> spacers like the TF, MGA, MGB, etc. used. If you have 1-12" carbs you
> can use TF spacers and studs to replace the TD bolts (and new gaskets,
> of course). If you have 1-1/4" carbs, I have a local supplier of the
> correct size spacers which we had made up to solve this very problem on
> TCs and TDs. They're not cheap ($30 a pair, as they were custom-made in
> a small run) and you still need to buy 4 gaskets and studs and nuts, but
> they really do eliminate the problem.
>
> Lawrie
> greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops
> to almost 80. we were out in the car, about twilight.  almost an hour 
> later
> weather.com says the ambient temperature is 90 we drove the car for about
> 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 -
> 15 minutes.  it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one
> cycle or less.
> fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start it. 
> it
> was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15
> minute drive home. vapor lock?

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 18 08:47:41 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 09:47:41 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
In-Reply-To: <0175E39B-E318-4DF8-AD34-1FDD7816102B@gmail.com>
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
	<0175E39B-E318-4DF8-AD34-1FDD7816102B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1AB255C947264A64B2BCFF3EFCC20380@ranteer.local>

this would be the first time this happened, but it is also the first time I 
have parked the car for just 10-15 minutes.   normally we have breakfast or 
dinner, or something like that, which gives it time to cool off.  or I'll 
take the car out for a drive, and then put it back in the garage.

I just had a quick errand to run and felt the need to drive the td!

--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Deikis" <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 9:52 PM
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] trouble starting

> Sounds like the typical fuel percolation problem. Is this the first time 
> you have experienced this in Texas?!  A handful of crushed ice on top of 
> each float bowl would have solved the problem. Usually you can get started 
> if you don't ask for more than an idle. Then as cooler gas gets into the 
> carbs, your running will even out.
>
> -John

From lkarpman at tx.rr.com  Mon Jul 18 09:16:52 2011
From: lkarpman at tx.rr.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:16:52 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
In-Reply-To: <20110718132050.10600.qmail@s417.sureserver.com>
References: <D07884F0A80D49479D62FE01B127DC22@ranteer.local>
	<D489F73AE0AB41EFAF3AABE958EC75F0@LarryPC>
	<20110718132050.10600.qmail@s417.sureserver.com>
Message-ID: <AE05EA5195AA4082881055D69395E31E@LarryPC>

It's more like gently revving, and backing off, and repeating until smooth.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "lawrie" <lawrie at britcars.com>
To: "Lawrence Karpman" <lkarpman at tx.rr.com>; "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] trouble starting


> Lawrence,
>
> Any idea why your "tap, tap, tap the gas pedal" contributes to the 
> re-start? Since there are no accelerator pumps on SU carburetors, doing 
> that surely does nothing more than exercise your ankle?
>
> Lawrie
>
>
>>  -------Original Message-------
>>  From: Lawrence Karpman <lkarpman at tx.rr.com>
>>  To: MG-T <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>>  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] trouble starting
>>  Sent: 17 Jul '11 20:55
>>
>>  I'm in the DFW area too. In the extreme heat, I just pull the
>>  choke when I start it after sitting less than 30 minutes, and tap, tap, 
>> tap
>>  the gas pedal and the engine will smooth out rapidly in less than 20
>>  seconds. No need to push start.
>>
>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>  From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
>>  To: "MG-T" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>>  Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 9:04 PM
>>  Subject: [Mg-t] trouble starting
>>
>>
>>  > greetings from Dallas, where on a good evening the temperature drops 
>> to
>>  > almost
>>  > 80.
>>  >
>>  > we were out in the car, about twilight. almost an hour later 
>> weather.com
>>  > says
>>  > the ambient temperature is 90
>>  >
>>  > we drove the car for about 10 - 15 minutes, then parked for about 10 - 
>> 15
>>  > minutes. it would not start, although it seemed to catch for maybe one
>>  > cycle
>>  > or less.
>>  >
>>  > fortunately, we were parked on a hill, and I was able to push start 
>> it.
>>  > it
>>  > was very jerky for about 20 seconds, then ran just fine for the 15 
>> minute
>>  > drive home.
>>  >
>>  > vapor lock?
>>  > ______________________________________________
>>  >
>>  > Mg-t at autox.team.net
>>  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>  > Suggested annual donation $11.47
>>  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>  > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lkarpman at tx.rr.com
>>  ______________________________________________
>>
>>  Mg-t at autox.team.net
>>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>  Suggested annual donation $11.47
>>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>  Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie at britcars.com

From gunnellj at tds.net  Thu Jul 21 20:22:25 2011
From: gunnellj at tds.net (gunnellj tds.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 21:22:25 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TF "Generator" Light
Message-ID: <CAL+NFWeQ8C__-Q1w2ZEiy4aDFQkDg7s4YuEVJsxWRUoKbyXzxA@mail.gmail.com>

Listers

   Since installing a rebuilt generator (uh, dynamo) on my MG TF 1250
recently, the red light on the dashboard has been staying on longer than
usual.

   First I will give a brief but complete story of the car's electrics and
then describe what's happening recently. Maybe someone has an idea or
suggestion.

   Car was purhased in 2003 and when received I found the battery to be
installed backwards. I reversed it and never really had an issue in
thousands of miles of driving over 8-9 years. The gauge always read
discharging (to the right on a TF for some reason), but the battery never,
ever went dead. I never worried about it and assumed that someday I would
get ambitious and just reverse the leads. Last September, after a trip to
the vintage races in Elkhart Lake the generator started making noises, but
it was still doing its job.

   Not liking noises, I took the generator apart along with the generator
from a TD "barn fresh" $500 parts car. I thought perhaps I could swap things
and do a cheap fix, but the generator on the TF turned out to be toast.
Kaput. Even though it had been generating, the armature was damaged and
burned. The TD armature was actually better, but the whole works was overall
pretty sad and no good for parts use.

   I had both generators rebuilt by Fondy Auto Electric, a company that has
three shops in Wisconsin and seems to know its stuff. They told me that both
armatures really needed to be "sent out and rewound" by another shop. I told
them to do both for around $200 each. The TD generator is of the same
family, but with a different suffix and has some kind of shield on the end
that looks funky, but makes it not right for a TF.

   I put the TF generator on and all seemed fine. i even noticed that the
generator bracket spacing needed to be tightened up. That may be why the old
one was making noise as the loose spacing may have damaged the bearings a
bit. I went on the Internet to figure out how to "polarize" the new
generator. From the moment I did that, the car seemed to run better.

   For the last week or so, when I start the car, the red generator light
has been staying lit for a time. The gauge needle also reads slight
discharge. the car idles at about 9000-10,000 rpm and the fan belt is per
the manual. The generator light will stay on (and the needle will go to
discharge) for the first mile to mile and a half of driving. After that, the
light will go out and rarely come on, even at a stop sign, unless tickover
(I love that term) drops very low. The light being on has not caused any
problem other than the light being on.

   This morning, the light did not go on when I started the car. this
afternoon, when I came home, it did go on.

   Tonight I moved the car into my building and let it idle for a length of
time that would be equal to driving it a mile and a half. The light came on
and did not go out. I then revved the engine to higher rpms. Once I got up
to 2500 rpm or so, the light immediately went out. I re-started and the same
thing happened -- the light lit until I hit 2500 rpm.

   I would like to think this is not a generator problem. Fondy will
probably redo the generator if it is, but I just hate taking it all off
again if I don't have to.


"Gunner"

John Gunnell
PO Box 87
Iola, WI 54945
Ph: 715 445 4262
Cell: 715 281 5925

Please visit Gunner's Great Garage
Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - and Art Gallery
at the corner of Highway 110 and E6110 Fuhs Road in Manawa, WI
Shop: 920-596-2273
www.gunnersgreatgarage.com



Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Jul 22 13:15:22 2011
From: mgbob at juno.com (mgbob at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 19:15:22 GMT
Subject: [Mg-t] TF "Generator" Light
Message-ID: <20110722.151522.22640.6@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>

Hi John,
   I would go through the steps to diagnose and adjust the control box
(regulator).
  If it needs adjustment, make yourself a set of small 90 degree offset
screwdrivers. I used 10 penny nails, bent to shape, hammered flat and filed to
fit the screws. You need these to get access to the adjustments w/o removing
control box from the footwell.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj at tds.net>
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] TF "Generator" Light
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 21:22:25 -0500

Listers

   Since installing a rebuilt generator (uh, dynamo) on my MG TF 1250
recently, the red light on the dashboard has been staying on longer than
usual.

   First I will give a brief but complete story of the car's electrics and
then describe what's happening recently. Maybe someone has an idea or
suggestion.

From anngene at bellsouth.net  Fri Jul 22 15:11:36 2011
From: anngene at bellsouth.net (anngene at bellsouth.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 16:11:36 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] [Bulk]  TF "Generator" Light
In-Reply-To: <CAL+NFWeQ8C__-Q1w2ZEiy4aDFQkDg7s4YuEVJsxWRUoKbyXzxA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL+NFWeQ8C__-Q1w2ZEiy4aDFQkDg7s4YuEVJsxWRUoKbyXzxA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <193BC426FC2043858856654C5721A1DC@Home>

John wrote:
" Since installing a rebuilt generator (uh, dynamo) on my MG TF 1250
recently, the red light on the dashboard has been staying on longer than 
usual.
Tonight I moved the car into my building and let it idle for a length of
time that would be equal to driving it a mile and a half. The light came on
and did not go out. I then revved the engine to higher rpms. Once I got up
to 2500 rpm or so, the light immediately went out. I re-started and the same
thing happened -- the light lit until I hit 2500 rpm."


John,

I doubt seriously it's your generator(s).  It's more than likely your 
voltage regulator...an easy way to check would be to swap out the TF 
generator with the TD one...if it's your voltage regulator it would give the 
same symptom with either generator.

I highly recommend you have your voltage regulator modernized.   Bob Jeffers 
(cc'd above) at http://wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx will take your existing 
regulator, gut it, install a transistorized circuit card, adjust it to the 
correct generator output and you'll never have to worry about it again. 
Best of all with the cover on the regulator  looks stock and it won't cost 
but a fraction of the $200 you've got in each generator.  I had mine done 
and I'm very pleased with it 
(http://wiltonae.com/articles_reviews/article_GettingAChargeOutOfIt/index.aspx),

Best regards,
Gene Gillam

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Fri Jul 22 16:56:22 2011
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 17:56:22 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TF "Generator" Light
In-Reply-To: <20110722.151522.22640.6@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110722.151522.22640.6@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <01f201cc48c2$93c5f0a0$bb51d1e0$@com>

Before you attempt to adjust the regulator, first clean the points inside
the regulator. I work on a lot of regulators and find that the vast majority
of problems are dirty or oxidized points.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mgbob at juno.com
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 2:15 PM
To: gunnellj at tds.net
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF "Generator" Light

Hi John,
   I would go through the steps to diagnose and adjust the control box
(regulator).
  If it needs adjustment, make yourself a set of small 90 degree offset
screwdrivers. I used 10 penny nails, bent to shape, hammered flat and filed
to
fit the screws. You need these to get access to the adjustments w/o removing
control box from the footwell.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj at tds.net>
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] TF "Generator" Light
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 21:22:25 -0500

Listers

   Since installing a rebuilt generator (uh, dynamo) on my MG TF 1250
recently, the red light on the dashboard has been staying on longer than
usual.

   First I will give a brief but complete story of the car's electrics and
then describe what's happening recently. Maybe someone has an idea or
suggestion.
______________________________________________

Mg-t at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Jul 31 18:15:24 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 19:15:24 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] [Fwd: [Fwd: [9issa] Reluctantly Offered]]
Message-ID: <4E35F01C.9080103@justbrits.com>

NOT sure of WHY this bounced as it only went to eight [8] address 
including ONE [1] BCC,  FOUR [4] to AutoX Lists, THREE [3] to
POS yahoo Lists, and ONE [1] justbrits List ??  VERY odd ?!?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Fwd: [9issa] Reluctantly Offered]
Date: 	Sat, 30 Jul 2011 22:36:35 -0500
From: 	Shop at " Just Brits " <shop at justbrits.com>
To: 	4 - bugeye at yahoo <bugeye at yahoogroups.com>, 4 - Healeys 
<healeys at autox.team.net>, 4 - MG-MGB <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>, 4 - MG Ts 
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<polysci_101 at justbrits.com>


If interested, plz 'talk' to me and I'll put you in touch with Kate.

NFI, YMMV, YADA, YADA, BLAH, AND BLAH !!!

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[9issa] Reluctantly Offered
Date: 	Sat, 30 Jul 2011 17:52:46 +0000 (UTC)
From: 	Kate in Elko, NV ! !
To: 	9issa at justbrits.com
CC: 	spridgets at autox.team.net



In addition to a broken neck, I now also have five freshly separated ribs. I don't foresee myself driving Madge at any time in the reasonable future, and she is just too nice to allow to sit and deteriorate. I will not be able to put my Comanche back together without more money than I presently have access to, so Madge Midget is looking for a home where she will be loved and appreciated as much as she has been with me.

She is a 1972 RWA with a fresh 1275 and ribcase. The engine has about 4000 miles and the gearbox about 1000. No oil leaks anywhere. She has never been wrecked, but had a car roll into a front fender. It was replaced with a good one off my parts car, and the difference in paint color is barely noticeable if the light is right.

She has rebuilt and freshly covered Bugeye seats, roll bar, 1962 chrome grille, and the early two piece tail lights. A new black top, still in the package, comes with her, as does a hood cover and slightly munched tonneau cover. Any extra parts I have lurking about will also be included.

Pictures, pre tail light, are available on Just Ed's site. I am not able to take more at the present time. She is a solid, very driveable car that also looks good, despite a few rick chips. 

Make me a decent offer and she's yours to drive home. I would drive this car to the east coast and back without hesitation.

Kate

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