From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Sun Jan  3 11:01:46 2010
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 13:01:46 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
Message-ID: <002201ca8c9e$d101fbd0$7305f370$@net>

Happy New year Listers.

My question is: Is there a similar list for the early 1960's Rover II?

Cheers

Gene

'53 MGTD Unrestored   

Vermont (18+ inches so far today.)

From sales at justbrits.com  Sun Jan  3 18:07:12 2010
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 2010 19:07:12 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
In-Reply-To: <002201ca8c9e$d101fbd0$7305f370$@net>
References: <002201ca8c9e$d101fbd0$7305f370$@net>
Message-ID: <4B413F40.8000803@justbrits.com>

<< My question is: Is there a similar list for the early 1960's
Rover II? >>

Well Gene, the first thing I tried was [at bottom
of EVERY List Post:

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

then at bottom of page clicked on:

Overview of all autox.team.net mailing lists 
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo>

which shows a list of all of Mark's [MJB] Lists.
[why work hard - LOL]

That shows NADA for you.

So I would suspect some "time" at the keyboard and
www.google.com [or if yer really smart, use the Search
Box in your "Tool Bar" <G> - FREE & SIMPLE] and just
do some old fashioned searching. 

Personally, I start with a word or phrase of what I am
looking for IN "quotes" [ "rover II mailing list" ]. 
Narrows the results.

Happy New Year yourself <G> !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Mon Jan 11 08:51:48 2010
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 07:51:48 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Gas Cap Repair
Message-ID: <740B5AFB-FD40-4E49-9A01-C7F6EF00FDEC@earthlink.net>

Does anyone know of someone who repairs the stainless steel gas caps?
I have one with a dent in it.
Have seen the cast reproduction from Moss Motors.
Would prefer either getting this one repaired, or locating another,  
original
gas cap for a MG TD (or TF).

John Seim
Irvine, CA

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Mon Jan 11 13:08:47 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 15:08:47 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Gas Cap Repair
In-Reply-To: <740B5AFB-FD40-4E49-9A01-C7F6EF00FDEC@earthlink.net>
References: <740B5AFB-FD40-4E49-9A01-C7F6EF00FDEC@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W49434280C1D93DF263D149B76D0@phx.gbl>

I do see original caps on Ebay every once in a while.



If it were me, I'd be tempted to dismantle it and smooth the dent myself.



-Mike Eldred

Wilmington, VT

> From: kingseim at earthlink.net
> Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 07:51:48 -0800
> To: mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com; mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Gas Cap Repair
>
> Does anyone know of someone who repairs the stainless steel gas caps?
> I have one with a dent in it.
> Have seen the cast reproduction from Moss Motors.
> Would prefer either getting this one repaired, or locating another,
> original
> gas cap for a MG TD (or TF).
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390707/direct/01/

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Tue Jan 12 07:37:41 2010
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 06:37:41 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Gas Cap Repair
References: <965264.81453.qm@web37003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B494BD20-27BE-43B0-B99F-722E8AFE9F33@earthlink.net>

WOW! Within 1 day, I received two offers of TD/TF original gas caps,  
plus been advised of two sources
where to have a cap repaired. Much faster response than the old days  
of searching magazines, and writing letters.

Thanks to all,
John

Bill Hentzen wrote:

Good day John!

I have had running board strips done by Vintage Vehicles, Inc., with  
good results. There is a real big list of those who claim to do  
stainless refurbishing in Hemmings Motor News, and Hemmings Almanac.

Vintage Vehicles, Inc.
N-1940 20th Drive
Wautoma, WI 54982
(920) 787-2656
http://www.vintagevehicles.net/

Cheers!

Bill Hentzen
Mequon WI
TB0437 Salmons 5308


Begin forwarded message:

> From: Sara Dahl <ssdmgtrio at yahoo.com>
> Date: January 11, 2010 9:49:52 AM PST
> To: John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Gas Cap Repair
>
> Hey John, happy new year.  This was a hard one for us too.  After  
> about a year of looking my son found them at Keystone with Mick  
> Conde, mmmgtcars at yahoo.com (tabc member too) .  At the time he had  
> finished/restored and some take-off's.  Great guy to deal with on  
> original parts only.           TTFN        Sara
>
> Keystone Classic Cars, Ltd.
> P.O. Box 134
> Harrison City, PA 15636
> mick_conde at hotmail.com
>
> --- On Mon, 1/11/10, John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> From: John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net>
> Subject: [mg-tabc] Gas Cap Repair
> To: mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com, "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 10:51 AM
>
> Does anyone know of someone who repairs the stainless steel gas caps?
> I have one with a dent in it.
> Have seen the cast reproduction from Moss Motors.
> Would prefer either getting this one repaired, or locating another,
> original
> gas cap for a MG TD (or TF).
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jan 13 06:37:07 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 07:37:07 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wire caps
In-Reply-To: <308DC435C6FA4950A21B2002CF9C4F2D@roundabout.com>
References: <5382DBE98E59477A8CC70D87C9DCC876@ranteer.local>
	<308DC435C6FA4950A21B2002CF9C4F2D@roundabout.com>
Message-ID: <E7098163015E476EB83D2432CB059349@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

I could really use a set of caps (or connectors or whatever you want to call 
them) - the ones that connect to the spark plugs that have the little screw. 
anyone have an extra set of 4 to sell?  either new or very good used?

thanks

oliver 

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jan 13 12:45:58 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 13:45:58 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wire caps
In-Reply-To: <E7098163015E476EB83D2432CB059349@ranteer.local>
References: <5382DBE98E59477A8CC70D87C9DCC876@ranteer.local>
	<308DC435C6FA4950A21B2002CF9C4F2D@roundabout.com>
	<E7098163015E476EB83D2432CB059349@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4B4E22F6.8090207@justbrits.com>

<< I could really use a set of caps (or connectors or whatever
you want to call them) - the ones that connect to the spark
plugs that have the little screw. >>

I so have 'screw-on' 90deg. connectors in hand,
Oliver.  List is $7.95 each.

Final Sale Price $6.25 each + Actual Shipping
(NEVER any 'handling' charge'.) Inventory
Reduction.

Lemme know.

Ed

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jan 15 20:01:20 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 21:01:20 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <20090928.103533.3328.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20090928.103533.3328.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <FB7779A7D08E40CE9C8B5D6F6819D5D1@ranteer.local>

just checking - on the ignition coil (I'm putting in a positive ground 
pertronix)

1952 MGTD positive ground car

ws is negative or power
cb is positive or ground 

From budkrueger at comcast.net  Fri Jan 15 20:18:48 2010
From: budkrueger at comcast.net (Bud Krueger)
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 22:18:48 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] ignition coil
In-Reply-To: <FB7779A7D08E40CE9C8B5D6F6819D5D1@ranteer.local>
References: <20090928.103533.3328.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<FB7779A7D08E40CE9C8B5D6F6819D5D1@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4B513018.9060803@comcast.net>

Yes.  CB is contact breaker, on the ground (+) side of the coil.  You 
might look at http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/PerPosGndWiring.htm for more 
info.  Follow their directions all the way, including the extra wire, 
and it should work fine.
Bud Krueger

oliver wrote:
> just checking - on the ignition coil (I'm putting in a positive ground 
> pertronix)
>
> 1952 MGTD positive ground car
>
> ws is negative or power
> cb is positive or ground _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jan 21 20:32:54 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:32:54 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] hood mounting screws
In-Reply-To: <A3EAEE7A-D955-4B5B-92EB-CA2C7AE6D9FF@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20090518.105605.2492.5.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<A3EAEE7A-D955-4B5B-92EB-CA2C7AE6D9FF@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <59D63E9FD2284FA1A6817A4FE6147027@ranteer.local>

the two screws that hold the chrome piece down (which the long chrome piece 
that unites the two hood pieces fits into) at the scuttle - I question 
whether mine are original.  should they be chrome, stainless, or ?  and is 
the head flat or domed?  slotted or philips?

thanks! 

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Jan 21 21:48:09 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 23:48:09 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] hood mounting screws
In-Reply-To: <59D63E9FD2284FA1A6817A4FE6147027@ranteer.local>
References: <20090518.105605.2492.5.MGBOB@juno.com>,
	<A3EAEE7A-D955-4B5B-92EB-CA2C7AE6D9FF@sbcglobal.net>,
	<59D63E9FD2284FA1A6817A4FE6147027@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W51DF668FF1C3780C1709F2B7620@phx.gbl>

I'm guessing from the description that you're talking about a TF.

On my TF, the screws are slotted oval-head screws, approx. 2" long.  I believe
they are chrome, but I suppose they could be stainless.  Mine are original -
or at least they're the same ones that have been with the car for the last 40+
years that we've had it.



Cheers,

Mike Eldred

'54 MG TF

'73 Midget

> From: sumton at sbcglobal.net
> To: Mg-t at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:32:54 -0600
> Subject: [Mg-t] hood mounting screws
>
> the two screws that hold the chrome piece down (which the long chrome piece
> that unites the two hood pieces fits into) at the scuttle - I question
> whether mine are original. should they be chrome, stainless, or ? and is
> the head flat or domed? slotted or philips?
>
> thanks!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390710/direct/01/

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Thu Jan 21 22:07:40 2010
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 00:07:40 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Any East Coast Skiers?
Message-ID: <SNT124-W4895EAE367B50305ABF81EB7620@phx.gbl>

It may seem like an odd off-topic question, but are there any listers who will
be skiing at Mount Snow, VT, this winter?  I have two complimentary lift
tickets available that I would like to offer to the first lister who will
arrange to pick them up from me here in Vermont.  No blackout dates, no
strings, I just want to promote the Mount Snow area to fellow LBC'ers.  Please
email me off-list for details.



Cheers,

-Mike Eldred

'54 MG TF

'71 Midget

_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390709/direct/01/

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Fri Jan 22 10:12:07 2010
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 09:12:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] hood mounting screws
In-Reply-To: <59D63E9FD2284FA1A6817A4FE6147027@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <413337.26546.qm@web37407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Mine are flat, slotted and stainless.
 
Scott Allen
 
'52 TD
'74 1/2 BGT

--- On Thu, 1/21/10, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] hood mounting screws
To: "mg-t at autox.team.net" <Mg-t at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 21, 2010, 10:32 PM


the two screws that hold the chrome piece down (which the long chrome piece
that unites the two hood pieces fits into) at the scuttle - I question whether
mine are original.  should they be chrome, stainless, or ?  and is the head
flat or domed?  slotted or philips?

thanks! _______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From theducks at aol.com  Sat Jan 23 15:28:05 2010
From: theducks at aol.com (theducks at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 17:28:05 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: Gearbox Oil filler Cap
In-Reply-To: <8CC6A91C2CD0499-1200-1162A@webmail-d062.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC6A91C2CD0499-1200-1162A@webmail-d062.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC6A9277A8E288-1200-11702@webmail-d062.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: theducks at aol.com



Hello Gang

I have a want for a gearbox oil filler cap for my 51 TD...any spare one out
there?

Dale Drake
Lake Helen Fl.

From simbafish at comcast.net  Tue Jan 26 08:08:14 2010
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart Keen)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2010 10:08:14 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Brakes not grabbing
Message-ID: <C7846F8E.A00%simbafish@comcast.net>

The brakes on my 1951 TD do not grab like they use to, and I believe the
rear brakes hang up. Could something have gotten bent by depressing the
brakes too hard, like in a panic?

My problem started back in September while driving to Canada. Looking for a
small country road off of an Interstate in Georgia, when it unexpectedly
appeared, I slammed on the brakes to quickly turned left. From that point
on, the brakes did not grab properly. Also the distance to press the brake
pedal seemed longer now but there was still plenty of brake fluid and there
was no cushioning feeling as if there was air in the line. What happened?
Why was the reach longer? What bent?

Twice on the way north, I  stopped to adjust the brakes. Had some problem
with the front right, the adjuster seemed limited in movement. Once I
returned home, I cleaned the hubs and the brake cylinders of the front
wheels, replaced the front left and right pair of brake shoes as they were a
little thin. Then because of poor braking performance, I also replaced the
master cylinder.  Then bleed the brake system. Drove the car down my street,
pushed HARD on the brakes to set the shoes. Made a U turn, and then when I
accelerated, heard an alarming loud BANG. Thought it was the transmission.
Repeated this several times, and the sound seemed to be coming from the
right rear wheel. 

Removed both rear wheels, found them quite dirty and rusty. Removed the
shoes, thoroughly cleaned the hubs and cylinders. The sliding action of the
brake cylinder appeared rather stiff on both wheels. I believe this is what
is hanging up and was releasing with a thunderous BANG. Cleaned away the
rust around the slide area. Even greased this area, and even though the
sliding action was better, it was not really as smooth as I would like but
saw no way to improve. Installed new brake shoes on both wheels. Test drove
the car and again pushed hard on the brakes. The BANG occurred again; so
obviously the problem was not fixed.

It appears that as long as I do not push hard on the brakes as if I am
trying to set the shoes or in an emergency, I'm okay. The Car has not been
driven for several months. Then drove the TD again today. Brakes seemed not
grabbing properly so pushed HARD, thinking perhaps they had never really set
well and were still smooth (though I had roughed up all shoes and hubs with
emery paper before installing). When I accelerated today, there was first a
faint bang from the right rear wheel. Stopped at a light, took off again and
then the left wheel gave several LOUD BANGS. It sounded almost like the bad
meshing of gears, several bangs in succession, but I still do not think it
is the transmission. It only happens when HARD brakes are applied.

What could be wrong with the brake system? What could have bent by
depressing the brakes too hard during a panic? Any help/suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks.

Stu Keen
1951 MG TD MKII

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jan 30 10:09:43 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 11:09:43 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question
In-Reply-To: <93AD3506-C153-4A2D-A35C-19A36846026C@earthlink.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP42E1F30A77B7FEAD52E17592290@phx.gbl><F5CD764E90744C12ACEBDB827483C9FA@Edscomputer><2E27CD30-1EAD-4919-9B3F-6EB5D40C0613@bcpl.net><200907111831.n6BIV2r5024492@mail.bcpl.net>
	<93AD3506-C153-4A2D-A35C-19A36846026C@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <5D42CA536F5147AA926159B7B214824E@ranteer.local>

the screws that hold the chrome piece that holds the chrome strip that holds 
the hood (bonnet) halves is coming out (as in stripped).

what's the best way to fix this?  I'm thinking rather than get a bigger 
screw I should "refill" the wood hold with something?  do we have a wood 
expert out there with the right answer?

thanks in advance. 

From beeltee at optonline.net  Sat Jan 30 10:13:18 2010
From: beeltee at optonline.net (Kevin Gunther)
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 12:13:18 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question
References: <BLU0-SMTP42E1F30A77B7FEAD52E17592290@phx.gbl>
	<F5CD764E90744C12ACEBDB827483C9FA@Edscomputer>
	<2E27CD30-1EAD-4919-9B3F-6EB5D40C0613@bcpl.net>
	<200907111831.n6BIV2r5024492@mail.bcpl.net>
	<93AD3506-C153-4A2D-A35C-19A36846026C@earthlink.net>
	<5D42CA536F5147AA926159B7B214824E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <F04B649424574FCB97556CA3CE037BA8@Kevin>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:09 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question


> the screws that hold the chrome piece that holds the chrome strip that 
> holds the hood (bonnet) halves is coming out (as in stripped).
>
> what's the best way to fix this?  I'm thinking rather than get a bigger 
> screw I should "refill" the wood hold with something?  do we have a wood 
> expert out there with the right answer?
>
> thanks in advance.

Drill it out, epoxy in a dowel, let set up, trim and put in a new screw.

KG 

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Sat Jan 30 10:22:29 2010
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 09:22:29 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question
In-Reply-To: <5D42CA536F5147AA926159B7B214824E@ranteer.local>
References: <BLU0-SMTP42E1F30A77B7FEAD52E17592290@phx.gbl><F5CD764E90744C12ACEBDB827483C9FA@Edscomputer><2E27CD30-1EAD-4919-9B3F-6EB5D40C0613@bcpl.net><200907111831.n6BIV2r5024492@mail.bcpl.net>
	<93AD3506-C153-4A2D-A35C-19A36846026C@earthlink.net>
	<5D42CA536F5147AA926159B7B214824E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <D37CD9D6-A367-4C1B-B839-589F01091FF5@earthlink.net>

What I use to repair this, as well as the wood screw locations for  
the door checks, is a 10/32 rosan wood insert.
You drill a 23/64" hole, or 3/8" hole, into the wood. You already  
have correctly located holes. You can just
progressively go larger.
This wood insert is about 3/8" outer diameter, made of brass, and has  
knife edge screw thread around its exterior.
Makes for a very nice and secure mounting. You can then install 10/32  
machine screws, to secure to bonnet to the
outer rail.

I believe that Serv-A-Lite fasteners carry this item. They were made  
by a company in Costa Mesa, CA, called ROSAN,
for the aircraft industry. Used for placing fastening points into  
plywood, that would allow for removal and replacement
of panels, using machine screws.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:09 AM, oliver wrote:

> the screws that hold the chrome piece that holds the chrome strip  
> that holds the hood (bonnet) halves is coming out (as in stripped).
>
> what's the best way to fix this?  I'm thinking rather than get a  
> bigger screw I should "refill" the wood hold with something?  do we  
> have a wood expert out there with the right answer?
>
> thanks in advance. _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Sat Jan 30 11:39:54 2010
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 10:39:54 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question
In-Reply-To: <D37CD9D6-A367-4C1B-B839-589F01091FF5@earthlink.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP42E1F30A77B7FEAD52E17592290@phx.gbl><F5CD764E90744C12ACEBDB827483C9FA@Edscomputer><2E27CD30-1EAD-4919-9B3F-6EB5D40C0613@bcpl.net><200907111831.n6BIV2r5024492@mail.bcpl.net>
	<93AD3506-C153-4A2D-A35C-19A36846026C@earthlink.net>
	<5D42CA536F5147AA926159B7B214824E@ranteer.local>
	<D37CD9D6-A367-4C1B-B839-589F01091FF5@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4B647CFA.90800@sinclair.net>

On 1/30/2010 9:22 AM, John Seim wrote:
> What I use to repair this, as well as the wood screw locations for the 
> door checks, is a 10/32 rosan wood insert.
> You drill a 23/64" hole, or 3/8" hole, into the wood. You already have 
> correctly located holes. You can just
> progressively go larger.
> This wood insert is about 3/8" outer diameter, made of brass, and has 
> knife edge screw thread around its exterior.
> Makes for a very nice and secure mounting. You can then install 10/32 
> machine screws, to secure to bonnet to the
> outer rail. 

This is what I used some 25 years ago on all the spots that had wood 
screws in our TD and have never had a failure since.  I even went so far 
as to drill through the wood where the Lift-The-Dot studs are installed 
around the body tub and install 10-32 knife edge inserts from the back 
side to accept the LTD studs with 10-32 screws rather than the short 
sheet metal screws on them.  I believe that I have seen knife edge 
inserts in Lowe's and Home Depot.

Cheers,
Dave

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Sat Jan 30 12:46:16 2010
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 14:46:16 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question
In-Reply-To: <D37CD9D6-A367-4C1B-B839-589F01091FF5@earthlink.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP42E1F30A77B7FEAD52E17592290@phx.gbl>
	<F5CD764E90744C12ACEBDB827483C9FA@Edscomputer>
	<2E27CD30-1EAD-4919-9B3F-6EB5D40C0613@bcpl.net>
	<200907111831.n6BIV2r5024492@mail.bcpl.net>
	<93AD3506-C153-4A2D-A35C-19A36846026C@earthlink.net>
	<5D42CA536F5147AA926159B7B214824E@ranteer.local>
	<D37CD9D6-A367-4C1B-B839-589F01091FF5@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <a2c981b91001301146k5a046694t842c2d56df7c5fef@mail.gmail.com>

Oliver, I'd be happy to send you couple if you can't find them.
If you want to go "whole hog" and be done with wood screws forever, I can
sell you as many as you want in several sizes.
Email me off-list.
John Deikis
Chelsea, MI

-
*Racing in the Past Lane!*
*
*
johnsfollyATgmailDOTcom

On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 12:22 PM, John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net> wrote:

> What I use to repair this, as well as the wood screw locations for the door
> checks, is a 10/32 rosan wood insert.
> You drill a 23/64" hole, or 3/8" hole, into the wood. You already have
> correctly located holes. You can just
> progressively go larger.
> This wood insert is about 3/8" outer diameter, made of brass, and has knife
> edge screw thread around its exterior.
> Makes for a very nice and secure mounting. You can then install 10/32
> machine screws, to secure to bonnet to the
> outer rail.
>
> I believe that Serv-A-Lite fasteners carry this item. They were made by a
> company in Costa Mesa, CA, called ROSAN,
> for the aircraft industry. Used for placing fastening points into plywood,
> that would allow for removal and replacement
> of panels, using machine screws.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
>
>
> On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:09 AM, oliver wrote:
>
>  the screws that hold the chrome piece that holds the chrome strip that
>> holds the hood (bonnet) halves is coming out (as in stripped).
>>
>> what's the best way to fix this?  I'm thinking rather than get a bigger
>> screw I should "refill" the wood hold with something?  do we have a wood
>> expert out there with the right answer?
>>
>> thanks in advance. _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>>
>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>



-

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Sat Jan 30 17:09:25 2010
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John Quilter)
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 16:09:25 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question
References: <BLU0-SMTP42E1F30A77B7FEAD52E17592290@phx.gbl><F5CD764E90744C12ACEBDB827483C9FA@Edscomputer><2E27CD30-1EAD-4919-9B3F-6EB5D40C0613@bcpl.net><200907111831.n6BIV2r5024492@mail.bcpl.net><93AD3506-C153-4A2D-A35C-19A36846026C@earthlink.net>
	<5D42CA536F5147AA926159B7B214824E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <B267D9D2E6374C9585E2673AA6586A42@JQLT070909>

Can't you just drill the hole all the way through and use a counter sunk 
screw head bolt (stainless perhaps) and put a washer and nut on the lower 
end?   Or you can get something called a "T nut" that has small barbs that 
embed into the wood and the bolt screws into a threaded portion of the T 
nut.   Use these on the underside instead of a conventional nut.

John F. Quilter
Brisbane, California

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 9:09 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] screw into wood question


> the screws that hold the chrome piece that holds the chrome strip that 
> holds the hood (bonnet) halves is coming out (as in stripped).
>
> what's the best way to fix this?  I'm thinking rather than get a bigger 
> screw I should "refill" the wood hold with something?  do we have a wood 
> expert out there with the right answer?
>
> thanks in advance. _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive