From kingseim at earthlink.net  Tue Sep  1 07:26:39 2009
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 06:26:39 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] fuel lines
In-Reply-To: <D681AB2450614E1394466CF51F24703B@ranteer.local>
References: <D681AB2450614E1394466CF51F24703B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <6A3E2489-9B42-4131-9A96-8A7416635A28@earthlink.net>

Originally, they were rubber lines, with woven metal covering.
They would leak when you took the carbs off to repair something, as
they would crack once exposed to air.

Change them out for new ones from Moss or Abingdon.
Braided stainless steel covering teflon lines.
Much better than old stock.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Aug 31, 2009, at 8:30 AM, oliver wrote:

> hi all.
>
> been discussing what is original and what is available.  my fuel  
> lines are
> both braided cloth, probably rubber inside that.
>
> both moss and abingdon sell metal fuel lines.
>
> anyone know what's original, and if its the cloth braid where to  
> get it?
>
> thanks
>
> Oliver

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  1 09:17:52 2009
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 11:17:52 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] fuel lines
In-Reply-To: <505843.53982.qm@web83401.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <D681AB2450614E1394466CF51F24703B@ranteer.local>
	<505843.53982.qm@web83401.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W5AD18D913F3085368B72CBFF10@phx.gbl>

All,

I changed out the old rubber lines for stainless some years ago for these same
reasons.  I also recall that you run less chance of incurring vapor lock with
the braided stainless lines, but not sure if that's true or not.

Tuck

> Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 09:21:12 -0700
> From: taterry at pacbell.net
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net; sumton at sbcglobal.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] fuel lines
>
> Oliver, get rid of those original fuel lines as soon as possible. They are
> dangerous and fire is a likely result...go with the Moss or AS fuel lines
as
> they have teflon tubing in side the metal sleeves and will not fail with
the
> use of modern petrol. They most likely were metal with rubber tubing inside
> originally.
> Terry in Oakland
>
> --- On Mon, 8/31/09, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> From: oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: [Mg-t] fuel lines
> To: "T series list" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, August 31, 2009, 8:30 AM
>
>
> hi all.
>
> been discussing what is original and what is available. my fuel lines are
> both braided cloth, probably rubber inside that.
>
> both moss and abingdon sell metal fuel lines.
>
> anyone know what's original, and if its the cloth braid where to get it?
>
> thanks
>
> Oliver
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From imoz at columbus.rr.com  Thu Sep  3 20:51:33 2009
From: imoz at columbus.rr.com (Dan)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 22:51:33 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed
Message-ID: <F3098D5F42C44B6CB72D92AB4B38D763@ownerb5b734fc5>

Listers, 

 

I have done all the homework I can, and now at wit's end, I need your
expertise.  Sorry for the length of this request, I am trying to include all
relevant info.  

 

Though I have driven my '54 TF more than 500 miles since engine was
partially rebuilt by a factory trained (back then) mechanic.  Top end only,
and I am not sure of each and every thing he did, but it included a good
used stock cam, and new valve guides at least.  Each cylinder compression
reads right around 140 psi.  Carbs were rebuilt by another veteran of
similar vintage whose TSO ads you would be familiar with.  These gentlemen
are well experienced, so it seems unlikely they put things back together
wrong.  I have thus assumed the jets are properly centered (they come down
with a "clunk" when lifted and let go).  The idle adjustment screws were set
with the connecting rod loosened so that each adjustment screw was
independent of the other.  

 

After many tries at tuning, I finally took the car to the local LBC shop
(which restores and maintains many British and special sports cars).  They
corrected the timing, re-balanced the carbs and adjusted the mixture.  It
runs much better, and after 100 miles last weekend, the plugs are light tan,
all of them.  

 

Here's the problem.  The idle speed is still 1200 - 1300 RPM and the
adjustment screws as far out as they will go without actually removing them.


 

Having reviewed Mr. Old's articles on tuning from The T Series Handbook (did
my homework as best I could), I am concerned about his paragraph saying the
most likely cause of inability to adjust RPMs to the desired 800 - 900 is an
intake air leak.  I tested this with an unlit propane torch, but was unable
to perceive any change in engine speed or performance.  I am concerned
because of Mr. Old's admonition that with an intake leak the car might idle
OK, but will suffer from a wrong mixture as the engine is revved up under
driving conditions.   He says that bad things can happen then.  I also
reviewed the archives, and I really don't want to get into removing the
newly rebuilt carbs unless I have to (Lawrie Alexander's instructions to a
TD owner.)

 

Is my only option to change out the intake / exhaust gasket to be sure there
is no leak?  Is there any other way to understand what is happening, or to
make this adjustment?  Should I stop driving the car until this is solved?
Or, should I quit worrying and drive the car with the idle at 1200 to 1300?


 

Any help appreciated.  

 

Dan

TF Car # 3563

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Thu Sep  3 21:07:40 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 20:07:40 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed
In-Reply-To: <F3098D5F42C44B6CB72D92AB4B38D763@ownerb5b734fc5>
References: <F3098D5F42C44B6CB72D92AB4B38D763@ownerb5b734fc5>
Message-ID: <4AA0847C.60601@sinclair.net>

Dan,

Check that the throttle disks are properly centered in the throat of the 
carbs.  Loosen the screws and move the disks around until the close 
exactly all the way around the disk.  If the disks are not exactly 
centered in the carb throats, they will not close all the way, resulting 
in a high idle speed.

Cheers,
Dave

From clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com  Fri Sep  4 04:05:57 2009
From: clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com (Clive Sherriff)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 11:05:57 +0100
Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed
References: <F3098D5F42C44B6CB72D92AB4B38D763@ownerb5b734fc5>
Message-ID: <CC4C4DBD1F704B778079B81E9AAAE500@cypress>

Dan,

If everything else looks OK then its probably due to a leak at the Carb /
Inlet manifold joint due to the Carb flange having warped.  It's a fairly
low grade metal to say the least.  Ensure the carb flange face is flat -
usually a simple filing job, and refit with new gaskets (trust there is a
gasket!) and try again.

Clive
==================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan" <imoz at columbus.rr.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 3:51 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed


> Listers,
>
>
>
> I have done all the homework I can, and now at wit's end, I need your
> expertise.  Sorry for the length of this request, I am trying to include 
> all
> relevant info.
>
>
>
> Though I have driven my '54 TF more than 500 miles since engine was
> partially rebuilt by a factory trained (back then) mechanic.  Top end 
> only,
> and I am not sure of each and every thing he did, but it included a good
> used stock cam, and new valve guides at least.  Each cylinder compression
> reads right around 140 psi.  Carbs were rebuilt by another veteran of
> similar vintage whose TSO ads you would be familiar with.  These gentlemen
> are well experienced, so it seems unlikely they put things back together
> wrong.  I have thus assumed the jets are properly centered (they come down
> with a "clunk" when lifted and let go).  The idle adjustment screws were 
> set
> with the connecting rod loosened so that each adjustment screw was
> independent of the other.
>
>
>
> After many tries at tuning, I finally took the car to the local LBC shop
> (which restores and maintains many British and special sports cars).  They
> corrected the timing, re-balanced the carbs and adjusted the mixture.  It
> runs much better, and after 100 miles last weekend, the plugs are light 
> tan,
> all of them.
>
>
>
> Here's the problem.  The idle speed is still 1200 - 1300 RPM and the
> adjustment screws as far out as they will go without actually removing 
> them.
>
>
>
>
> Having reviewed Mr. Old's articles on tuning from The T Series Handbook 
> (did
> my homework as best I could), I am concerned about his paragraph saying 
> the
> most likely cause of inability to adjust RPMs to the desired 800 - 900 is 
> an
> intake air leak.  I tested this with an unlit propane torch, but was 
> unable
> to perceive any change in engine speed or performance.  I am concerned
> because of Mr. Old's admonition that with an intake leak the car might 
> idle
> OK, but will suffer from a wrong mixture as the engine is revved up under
> driving conditions.   He says that bad things can happen then.  I also
> reviewed the archives, and I really don't want to get into removing the
> newly rebuilt carbs unless I have to (Lawrie Alexander's instructions to a
> TD owner.)
>
>
>
> Is my only option to change out the intake / exhaust gasket to be sure 
> there
> is no leak?  Is there any other way to understand what is happening, or to
> make this adjustment?  Should I stop driving the car until this is solved?
> Or, should I quit worrying and drive the car with the idle at 1200 to 
> 1300?
>
>
>
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> TF Car # 3563
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive 

From budkrueger at comcast.net  Fri Sep  4 05:18:51 2009
From: budkrueger at comcast.net (Bud Krueger)
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 07:18:51 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed
In-Reply-To: <4AA0847C.60601@sinclair.net>
References: <F3098D5F42C44B6CB72D92AB4B38D763@ownerb5b734fc5>
	<4AA0847C.60601@sinclair.net>
Message-ID: <4AA0F79B.3050307@comcast.net>

Dan,
Another item to check is the installation of the throttle discs.  They 
are beveled on two edges to match the curvature of the inside of the 
throats.  If installed backwards there is the same effect as the 
throttle being advanced.  Hard to imagine one of the TSO advertisers 
doing this, but things do happen.

Bud Krueger

Dave and Liz DuBois wrote:
> Dan,
>
> Check that the throttle disks are properly centered in the throat of 
> the carbs.  Loosen the screws and move the disks around until the 
> close exactly all the way around the disk.  If the disks are not 
> exactly centered in the carb throats, they will not close all the way, 
> resulting in a high idle speed.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave
> _______________________________________________

From mgbob at juno.com  Fri Sep  4 06:42:46 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 08:42:46 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed
Message-ID: <20090904.084246.2696.9.MGBOB@juno.com>

  Not likely to be the cause of your high idle, but check that the
horizontal choke lever has a bit of slack in its action, that it's not
pulling the jets down at all, and that the choke's high-idle adjustment
has the specified clearance.   
  If the idle speed and jets are set just right, and the choke linkage is
then connected without a bit of looseness, it can pull the jets down and
raise idle speed. 
  If you can't find the source of the high idle, enjoy driving the car.
There's no need to spend the rest of the driving season chasing this. 
Bob

> your
> expertise.  Sorry for the length of this request, I am trying to 
> include all
> relevant info.  
____________________________________________________________
Human Resource Training
Complete an accredited human resources degree, 100% online. Free info!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=axZqVSqB9gz6aUqsPUNgNwAAJ1AZtbtuTpx5SVCdlh4YnsjUAAQAAAAFAAAAAEa2Mz4AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABIjAAAAAA==

From imoz at columbus.rr.com  Fri Sep  4 21:03:18 2009
From: imoz at columbus.rr.com (Dan)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 23:03:18 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed
In-Reply-To: <4AA0847C.60601@sinclair.net>
References: <F3098D5F42C44B6CB72D92AB4B38D763@ownerb5b734fc5>
	<4AA0847C.60601@sinclair.net>
Message-ID: <A9385BFCBA854D63B802D3D445DB2F0D@ownerb5b734fc5>

Oh, my gosh, what a wealth of experience several listers have already given
to this request for info.  I truly appreciate it, and if others have ideas,
I thank you in advance.  

My greatest relief is to know that it is not likely I will do damage by
driving it now, as I kind of suspected and hoped.  The upcoming Labor Day
weekend will be perfect top-down weather, and you will not find me in front
of the computer.  This has been a long time coming.  

I will chase this idle speed thing down, and I will report back to the list,
but please be patient.  It may not be until next February, but I guaranty it
will be before May!  

Octagonally, 
Dan'l


Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 11:08 PM
To: Dan
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed

Dan,

Check that the throttle disks are properly centered in the throat 

From andrewk962 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  7 11:08:39 2009
From: andrewk962 at yahoo.com (Andrew Kirk)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 10:08:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] Classic Car pictures
Message-ID: <10920.20990.qm@web112413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi All:  The wife has requested I get rid of 5 classic lithrographs of classic
sports cars.  These are in frames with glass and were the type road and track
used in their centerfolds except I obtained there at a car show and they were
never folded.  I don't want to ship them so you will need to pick them up I
live in the San Jose area of CA.  Pictures are a Buggati A Riley, An MG
magnett, a 1750 Alfa, and a blower Bently.  E-mail me if interested and can
pick up.Andy 

Work is the curse of the biking classes!!

Andrew J. Kirk

andrewk962 at yahoo.com

cell 650-224-3527

From joecurto at aol.com  Sun Sep  6 14:50:55 2009
From: joecurto at aol.com (joecurto at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 16:50:55 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] [mg-tabc] Fwd: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed
In-Reply-To: <d26.3c47ac5e.37d56b76@aol.com>
References: <d26.3c47ac5e.37d56b76@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBFD4ADCE96A6A-3A00-14D98@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com>

I have a XPAG crankshaft cut polished & magnafluxed .050/.050 with 
bearings, Located in New York city

joecurto at aol.com

718 762-7878 weekdays



-----Original Message-----
From: laf48 at aol.com
To: mg-t at autox.team.net; mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com; 
charleyrob at charter.net; nwmgtr at sinclair.net; MGTD1952 at cs.com; 
tandxroth at worldnet.att.net; FIGSMG at cs.com; grunau.garage at sympatico.ca; 
barcc at syd.auracom.com; MIKEFRAN at aol.com; mgnut at mindspring.com; 
lst1167 at theinter.com; MG50Ytype at aol.com; tokarj at erols.com; 
meltonroger at sbcglobal.net; roycrane at att.net; murphy at eclipse.net; 
TOPAZTD at aol.com; Roselover5 at aol.com; klorander at bellsouth.net; 
lkmend at msn.com; chuckh55 at cbiwireless.com; sugarloaf at efortress.com; 
Kimberclose at aol.com; kedtexas2 at msn.com; billh at rangelinemews.com; 
azmgclub at ten4ten.com; pthelander at earthlink.net; j2george at pacbell.net; 
kelsey at shadetreemotors.com; bruceobbink at comcast.net; 
gordclark at serurenet.net; t_m_moreland at msn.com
Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 3:45 pm
Subject: [mg-tabc] Fwd: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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From LAF48 at aol.com  Sun Sep  6 13:45:58 2009
From: LAF48 at aol.com (LAF48 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 15:45:58 EDT
Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed
Message-ID: <d26.3c47ac5e.37d56b76@aol.com>

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Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:41:44 EDT
Subject: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed
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I am looking for a TD crankshaft for my crew chiefs street 1953 TD. This is 
 not a racecar but his personal club meeting car. The one he has shows a 
crack in  it. Called Moldex but expensive and a long wait. If anyone has one 
or has a lead  on one. Let us know.
 
My crew chief is Dan Terrell and his phone # is 616 891-1249
 
Jim Austhof
Red MGB #1
_Snowpoint at aol.com_ (mailto:Snowpoint at aol.com) 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  8 21:08:06 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 22:08:06 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] anything happening the weekend of nov 13-14
Message-ID: <B7002CC624654FD5BB8233BC2D713E48@ranteer.local>

looks like i'll be in the philadelphia area that weekend

anything going on?

From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 12 19:19:59 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 20:19:59 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Some interesting things !!
Message-ID: <4AAC48BF.40804@justbrits.com>

 From my "joke" eMail List (which ALL of you ARE

welcome to join)!!!!!

http://www.justbrits.com/Temps/candles.wmv

<<   I did not try this, but it is interesting
---------------------------------------------------
for you scientifically innovative people the next power up we will 
be making
do with,  and then we will get a fine for polluting the air   

Is this really true?>>

And from the MailMan Users List, a VERY oldie and GREAT
video !!!!

>From http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4qEzSz1JSc.

ENJOY !!!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 17 11:58:09 2009
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:58:09 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping
Message-ID: <B5C61345-399D-4843-87FA-5429AEC582DE@earthlink.net>

Does the piping just go along side the splash apron, or did it make  
the curve,
and end facing the bonnet?

John Seim

From mike at duvallvideo.com  Thu Sep 17 13:22:27 2009
From: mike at duvallvideo.com (Duvall Video Productions)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 14:22:27 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Vintage races at Road America
Message-ID: <1410AB12-83B9-4BF2-81CC-6CB4D89A0E1A@duvallvideo.com>

I went to the vintage auto races at Road America last weekend.  It was  
great!  If your interested in a few photos.....

Enjoy and if someone finds their own own car let me know and I'll send  
you the files, Mike

http://www.flickr.com/welcome/39563194/bfb0a534e2/

From lawrie at britcars.com  Thu Sep 17 13:51:49 2009
From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 12:51:49 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping
References: <B5C61345-399D-4843-87FA-5429AEC582DE@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <A551F9B3DCF945C6BE857133DEF5E146@shop>

John,

On all the cars I've restored, I've always taken the piping around the curve 
to the edge of the radiator shell. Obviously, I believe this to be the 
correct way of doing it (!) and have never had anyone question it.

Cheers,

Lawrie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Seim" <kingseim at earthlink.net>
To: "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:58 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping


> Does the piping just go along side the splash apron, or did it make  the 
> curve,
> and end facing the bonnet?
>
> John Seim

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep 17 14:24:52 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:24:52 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping
Message-ID: <20090917.162453.3920.2.MGBOB@juno.com>

John, 
 Starting at the bumper bolt area, the piping rises vertically about four
inches, then turns and runs horizontally about 13 inches, stopping at the
end of the splash apron. It does not make a turn there to go toward the
bonnet. 
Bob
 
On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:58:09 -0700 John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net>
writes:
> Does the piping just go along side the splash apron, or did it make  
> 
> the curve,
> and end facing the bonnet?
> 
> John Seim
> 
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYa32HBUBNNFCeLYvPFC1grj8Ez566pJekuS9oohzkNSDbJD2qk/

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 22 13:45:07 2009
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:45:07 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] [mg-tabc] steering wheel 1950 MGTD
In-Reply-To: <h997tp+lt52@eGroups.com>
References: <h997tp+lt52@eGroups.com>
Message-ID: <116EB4FD-068E-41F2-B3F8-FA3CEAD0DBC6@earthlink.net>

Ben Cordsen, sculptart at aol.com, was gearing up to recast steering  
wheels.
I believe that he can duplicate the marbled plastic grip.

Other sources are:

Automotive Specialties
857 Nine Times RD.
Pickens, SC 29671		
800-676-1928

Bill Peters 		
41 Vassar Pl.
Rockville Centre
NY 11570	
516-766-8397

Dennis Crooks 	
Quality Restorations Inc.
Poway, CA 92064		
858-271-7374

I have not used any of these other steering wheel restorers.
I have seen Dennis Crooks work, and it looks very good.

John Seim
Irvine, CA


On Sep 21, 2009, at 6:06 PM, dgroue2512 wrote:

> where can I get a pearl kind of color steering wheel for my 1950 TD  
> recondition.Thanks DON

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 23 10:22:44 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 12:22:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] Question about Calif. defunct British Car delers
Message-ID: <18435245.1253722964748.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Question about Calif. defunct British Car dealers

This just in from Rod Bean - Can anyone on this list help???

Contact Rod directly, but please CC me.

Thanks,

Rick


---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Rod Bean <rodbean at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 4:11 AM
Subject: Question about Calif. defunct British Car delers
To: Rick Feibusch <rfeibusch1 at gmail.com>


Hi Rick,

I've been trying to remember the place where I purchased my first
Lotus Elan (of many since) in 1969.  It was a 1964 purchased used from
a large British car dealership in Anaheim.  The place might have been
a distributorship.  They handled all the BMC marques and was named
something like British Motors or British Car Distributors, British
Motor Corporation of Anaheim or something like that.  I seem to
remember that it was near a freeway offramp, though which freeway, I
can't recall.

A few years before, I actually had also bought a 1957 Hillman Commer
Cob (like a Husky but a panel truck instead of with side windows)
there (with a later OHV Hillman engine installed) from them.  It was
their parts delivery vehicle and they were upgrading to something
else.

What I'm looking for is the correct name and possibly, address of the
place.  This is just for my records as I am trying to trace my
automotive history, particularly, my long Lotus history.... all the
cars

Thanks for any help, Rick.

Rod Bean

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 27 14:32:46 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:32:46 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wires
Message-ID: <5382DBE98E59477A8CC70D87C9DCC876@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix).

looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering if anyone
had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks or traps
i should know about.  this is my first foray into the "build it yourself"
spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know how to do
it.

thanks!

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Sep 28 08:12:40 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 10:12:40 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wires
Message-ID: <20090928.103533.3328.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Oliver,
   I checked through the T-Register CD looking for measurements without
success.  
   My suggestion is to remove one at a time, measure the original and cut
the new one to same length allowing for any loss where insulation is cut
away, unless the original is too short in which case you would want to
make the new wire an inch or two longer. 
   Some mark the spark plug connector with Roman numerals, I II III IIII,
with a triangular file. It's inconspicuous, yet handy to have them
marked. 
   Those little copper washers over which you spread the wires become
invisible when dropped on the floor. Have a clean surface under your
working area and plenty of light. 
   Finger snug is tight enough for the connections into the cap and for
the screws in spark plug connections. The bakelite will crack if the
connections are over tightened.  
Bob
 
       
On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:32:46 -0500 "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> hi, all.
> 
> purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix).
> 
> looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering 
> if anyone
> had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks 
> or traps
> i should know about.  this is my first foray into the "build it 
> yourself"
> spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know 
> how to do
> it.
> 
> thanks!
____________________________________________________________
House Rescue Bill Passed
$133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=p6rLymS8h7QLuG9VBxPPDQAAJ1AZtbtuTpx5SVCdlh4YnsjUAAQAAAAFAAAAACvPhz4AAAMqAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaTcQAAAAA=

From clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com  Mon Sep 28 09:29:15 2009
From: clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com (Clive Sherriff)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:29:15 +0100
Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wires
References: <20090928.103533.3328.8.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <6D03CC0860B94987BE34FAC322385E6D@cypress>

I know suitable lengths for the spark plug leads,
and I know the Plug gap but I can't find anywhere
the specified ideal width (or diameter - is it
round? or perhaps oval?) of the spark itself.

Surely someone on the list will know!!!

Clive
Oxford UK
==================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] spark plug wires


> Hi Oliver,
>   I checked through the T-Register CD looking for measurements without
> success.
>   My suggestion is to remove one at a time, measure the original and cut
> the new one to same length allowing for any loss where insulation is cut
> away, unless the original is too short in which case you would want to
> make the new wire an inch or two longer.
>   Some mark the spark plug connector with Roman numerals, I II III IIII,
> with a triangular file. It's inconspicuous, yet handy to have them
> marked.
>   Those little copper washers over which you spread the wires become
> invisible when dropped on the floor. Have a clean surface under your
> working area and plenty of light.
>   Finger snug is tight enough for the connections into the cap and for
> the screws in spark plug connections. The bakelite will crack if the
> connections are over tightened.
> Bob
>
>
> On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:32:46 -0500 "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> writes:
>> hi, all.
>>
>> purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix).
>>
>> looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering
>> if anyone
>> had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks
>> or traps
>> i should know about.  this is my first foray into the "build it
>> yourself"
>> spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know
>> how to do
>> it.
>>
>> thanks!
> ____________________________________________________________
> House Rescue Bill Passed
> $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=p6rLymS8h7QLuG9VBxPPDQAAJ1AZtbtuTpx5SVCdlh4YnsjUAAQAAAAFAAAAACvPhz4AAAMqAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaTcQAAAAA=
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive 

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Mon Sep 28 15:53:14 2009
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:53:14 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wires
In-Reply-To: <5382DBE98E59477A8CC70D87C9DCC876@ranteer.local>
References: <5382DBE98E59477A8CC70D87C9DCC876@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <308DC435C6FA4950A21B2002CF9C4F2D@roundabout.com>

It occurs to me that the length of the wires is, to some extent, dependent
on the orientation of the distributor. I have found that with the flat side
facing forward, not only does the tach reduction box miss the distributor
hot lead if it drops down, but the wires run to the spark plugs with the
minimum length and generally do not cross each other.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 3:33 PM
To: T series list
Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wires

hi, all.

purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix).

looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering if anyone
had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks or
traps
i should know about.  this is my first foray into the "build it yourself"
spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know how to
do
it.

thanks!
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From scvc70 at epix.net  Tue Sep 29 15:28:01 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:28:01 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] 3rd brake light
Message-ID: <30C9A7A9C7B349E39C813E6535C1B1DB@S0026273562>

For years I've been looking for something brighter than my TD's stock
taillights/turn signals, and at the Rhinebeck (NY) show this past May I
finally found what I wanted -- weatherproof, inconspicuous when off, very
noticeable when on.

The BrakeLighter is a long, thin LED bar that can be mounted inside or out,
positive or negative ground, for cars with or without turn signals; it's
available in both 6 volt and 12 volt versions.  I bought the 12-volt version
and (at the seller's direction) downloaded the 6v installation instructions
from the website and used them (the instructions packed with the 12v version
are only for negative ground).

A  pair of brackets custom-made from aluminum, like badge-bar clips used
upside-down, let us hang the light bar from the over-the-tire luggage rack.
The TD has a trailer hitch, so we just attached a plug to the BrakeLighter
wires and connected it to the trailer-light plug (don't need a 3rd light if
we're pulling the trailer--it has big lights).

See the sellers' website --  jandlenterprise.com  --  for details.  The light
is suitable for outside mount, although their ads do not say so.  (If you want
a photo of our set-up, contact me off-list.)

No financial interest, just a happy customer---------

Sarah Carr
TD3942EXLU in PA

From simbafish at comcast.net  Tue Sep 29 16:17:02 2009
From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart C. Keen, Jr.)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:17:02 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub
Message-ID: <C6E7FF9E.57D9%simbafish@comcast.net>

I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes of my MG TD. Everything is
clean now. What type of lub do I use for the area where the wheel cylinder
assembly (Moss 180-630) slides up and down? Should I use brake grease,
silicone, oil or leave it dry. My concern is that if lubed, then it could
attract dirt and cause problems in the future. I find nothing in the
workshop manual pertaining to lubricating this part.

Also, I find that after I clean the drums with brake cleaner, they tend to
rust. Should I smear a light coat of oil on the areas not contacted by the
brake shoes? How to prevent rust?

Thanks for your help, one and all.

Stu Keen
1951 MGTD Mark II 

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Tue Sep 29 17:35:12 2009
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:35:12 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub
In-Reply-To: <C6E7FF9E.57D9%simbafish@comcast.net>
References: <C6E7FF9E.57D9%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <EE346D62F1A14903B6581EE4B682796F@roundabout.com>

Stu,

I've never lubed that area.

Regarding rust, clean and paint the exposed areas of the drum, but not the
braking surface. That area is best kept rust free by regular use of the car.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stuart C. Keen, Jr.
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 5:17 PM
To: MG
Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub

I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes of my MG TD. Everything is
clean now. What type of lub do I use for the area where the wheel cylinder
assembly (Moss 180-630) slides up and down? Should I use brake grease,
silicone, oil or leave it dry. My concern is that if lubed, then it could
attract dirt and cause problems in the future. I find nothing in the
workshop manual pertaining to lubricating this part.

Also, I find that after I clean the drums with brake cleaner, they tend to
rust. Should I smear a light coat of oil on the areas not contacted by the
brake shoes? How to prevent rust?

Thanks for your help, one and all.

Stu Keen
1951 MGTD Mark II 
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Tue Sep 29 23:35:27 2009
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John Quilter)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 22:35:27 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub
References: <C6E7FF9E.57D9%simbafish@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B2DDAF05794D43E581682F1E38107DA9@JQLT070909>

I just painted the outside of my drums with black paint.  Never did burn off 
in 30 years,  maybe I'm just driving too slow!

John F. Quilter
Brisbane, California
1951 TD

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart C. Keen, Jr." <simbafish at comcast.net>
To: "MG" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 3:17 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub


>I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes of my MG TD. Everything 
>is
> clean now. What type of lub do I use for the area where the wheel cylinder
> assembly (Moss 180-630) slides up and down? Should I use brake grease,
> silicone, oil or leave it dry. My concern is that if lubed, then it could
> attract dirt and cause problems in the future. I find nothing in the
> workshop manual pertaining to lubricating this part.
>
> Also, I find that after I clean the drums with brake cleaner, they tend to
> rust. Should I smear a light coat of oil on the areas not contacted by the
> brake shoes? How to prevent rust?
>
> Thanks for your help, one and all.
>
> Stu Keen
> 1951 MGTD Mark II
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive