From kingseim at earthlink.net  Mon Nov  2 06:46:16 2009
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 05:46:16 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Vintage MG Club of Southern California ALL MG Parts
 Exchange. Sunday, November 22, 2009
Message-ID: <E73B2682-01E2-41AE-BDE3-3F924DFF4FDF@earthlink.net>

Do any of you also subscribe to the Hemmings eWeekly?
Volume 5, Issue 21, dated October 29, 2009, had a very nice mention  
of the Vintage MG Club of Southern California
36th Annual ALL MG Parts Exchange. This will take place on Sunday,  
November 22, 2009

College Park
College of Communications
2600 E. Nutwood Ave., Fullerton, CA (across the street from  
California State University - Fullerton)
7:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.

John Seim

You can find out more information, including a map, at the club  
website. Look for Parts Exchange info.
<www.VintageMG.com>

You can find the eWeekly newsletter here.
<www.hemmings.com>

From sales at justbrits.com  Wed Nov  4 20:25:06 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 2009 21:25:06 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] Your tax dollars NOT working
Message-ID: <4AF24592.80801@justbrits.com>

<sigh> This is just UNREAL (car related but non LBC):

Clunker program:
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20091104/
ap_on_bi_ge/us_cash_for_clunkers

or

*http://tinyurl.com/yljgbgw

Ed
*
_______________________________________________________________________
  Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe 
   info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Wed Nov  4 20:49:46 2009
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 22:49:46 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
Message-ID: <a2c981b90911041949u69a45aedmb6322c063e480f1e@mail.gmail.com>

Maybe you guys have seen this already, but I found it a real treat.
Hold your breath when you get to the spray booth!

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826

 Watch in full frame. Long, silent film.
John Deikis
Chelsea, MI
*Racing in the Past Lane!*

From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Nov  5 12:42:03 2009
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 19:42:03 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
In-Reply-To: <a2c981b90911041949u69a45aedmb6322c063e480f1e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <202855.11398.qm@web24305.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Fascinating!  Thanks, John.  (If I were the foreman I'd get some new trestles
made up, those look as though they're on their last legs!)  Elf & safety?
Regards, Lodge

--- On Thu, 5/11/09, JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com> wrote:

From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 3:49 AM

Maybe you guys have seen this already, but I found it a real treat.
Hold your breath when you get to the spray booth!

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826

 Watch in full frame. Long, silent film.
John Deikis
Chelsea, MI
*Racing in the Past Lane!*
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Sun Nov  8 13:17:58 2009
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 09:17:58 +1300
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
In-Reply-To: <202855.11398.qm@web24305.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <a2c981b90911041949u69a45aedmb6322c063e480f1e@mail.gmail.com>
	<202855.11398.qm@web24305.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC441318AC@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

Brilliant.

I understand it was originally 1hr 20min long, but they editied out the
tea break. Of course the problem is the British continued building cars
the same way which is why there is almost no indigenous British industry
today.

I wonder if they had a company song like Austin:

THE AUSTIN UNITY SONG

Unity of purpose is our watchword day by day,
In all we do and say,
Marching on our way,
Holding it before us as through life we go along,
Hear the happy throng,
Sing the Austin song.


Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
No shirkers, all workers,
All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
We stand united with Austin as our aim.


Loyal co-operation is the test of brotherhood,
Working as men should,
For the common good,
Each for all, our motto, as the race of life we run,
Striving all as one,
Through the years to come.


Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
No shirkers, all workers,
All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
We stand united with Austin as our aim.

Douglas

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Lodge
Sent: Friday, 6 November 2009 8:42 a.m.
To: MG T List; JohnD
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931

Fascinating!  Thanks, John.  (If I were the foreman I'd get some new
trestles
made up, those look as though they're on their last legs!)  Elf &
safety?
Regards, Lodge

--- On Thu, 5/11/09, JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com> wrote:

From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 3:49 AM

Maybe you guys have seen this already, but I found it a real treat.
Hold your breath when you get to the spray booth!

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826

 Watch in full frame. Long, silent film.
John Deikis
Chelsea, MI
*Racing in the Past Lane!*
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From LAF48 at aol.com  Sun Nov  8 14:01:10 2009
From: LAF48 at aol.com (LAF48 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:01:10 EST
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG Camshafts!
Message-ID: <ce5.5dffd061.38288b96@aol.com>

Hello to the list. I now have in stock new XPAG roller lifter camshaft 
kits, for any application.
A roller cam will always outperform a flat lifter cam of the same duration.
LenFanelli
Abingdon Performance
914 420 8699
EST

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Sun Nov  8 21:25:07 2009
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John Quilter)
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:25:07 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
References: <a2c981b90911041949u69a45aedmb6322c063e480f1e@mail.gmail.com><202855.11398.qm@web24305.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC441318AC@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <C2BB5583A33E49DCAE800875C63CD050@JQLT070909>

If by indigenous you mean British owned auto manufacturers you are correct.
It you mean indigenous as made in England I would beg to differ.   BMW is
actively producing the new Mini and Rolls Royce in the UK.  VW produces
the Bentley in the UK and the new owners of Jaguar and Land Rover, Tata, an
Indian firm, continue with production in Coventry and Solihull.  It was not
so much the act of building a motor car in England that was the downfall of
the UK owned firms but management's inability to study the market, and
particularly the overseas markets, and, without xenophobic prejudice, design
and build cars that suited the markets in both the basic product and quality
and durability in service.

John F. Quilter
Brisbane, California
32 year veteran of the British auto industry

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Douglas Ormrod" <Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz>
To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931


> Brilliant.
>
> I understand it was originally 1hr 20min long, but they editied out the
> tea break. Of course the problem is the British continued building cars
> the same way which is why there is almost no indigenous British industry
> today.
>
> I wonder if they had a company song like Austin:
>
> THE AUSTIN UNITY SONG
>
> Unity of purpose is our watchword day by day,
> In all we do and say,
> Marching on our way,
> Holding it before us as through life we go along,
> Hear the happy throng,
> Sing the Austin song.
>
>
> Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
> Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
> No shirkers, all workers,
> All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
> Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
> Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
> We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
> We stand united with Austin as our aim.
>
>
> Loyal co-operation is the test of brotherhood,
> Working as men should,
> For the common good,
> Each for all, our motto, as the race of life we run,
> Striving all as one,
> Through the years to come.
>
>
> Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
> Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
> No shirkers, all workers,
> All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
> Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
> Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
> We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
> We stand united with Austin as our aim.
>
> Douglas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of David Lodge
> Sent: Friday, 6 November 2009 8:42 a.m.
> To: MG T List; JohnD
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
>
> Fascinating!  Thanks, John.  (If I were the foreman I'd get some new
> trestles
> made up, those look as though they're on their last legs!)  Elf &
> safety?
> Regards, Lodge
>
> --- On Thu, 5/11/09, JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
> To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 3:49 AM
>
> Maybe you guys have seen this already, but I found it a real treat.
> Hold your breath when you get to the spray booth!
>
> http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826
>
> Watch in full frame. Long, silent film.
> John Deikis
> Chelsea, MI
> *Racing in the Past Lane!*
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Nov  8 22:30:16 2009
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:30:16 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC441318AC@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <409156.36810.qm@web24304.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hello Doug,
Well, er........no!.  I remember going on a school trip to Birmingham and
Coventry in 58 or 59, and one of the highlights for me (apart from the
Cadbury's chocolate factory) was the Standard/Triumph factory, and the
assembly lines churning out Vanguard IIIs and TR 3As were absolutely
unrecognisable to those of Abingdon in the clip.  In fact, to my young and
untutored eyes it may as well have been the set of a science fiction film: all
gleaming metal and bustle.As anyone who lived through it will be glad to tell
you, the demise of the British car industry has much more to do with political
interference - from the left and right; in government and out - than outdated
manufacturing processes.   Ironic that the late leader of the Trades Union
Congress has recently been exposed as a Soviet plant.  Obvious to anyone on
the outside!
Regards, Lodge


--- On Sun, 8/11/09, Douglas Ormrod <Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz>
wrote:

From: Douglas Ormrod <Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, 8 November, 2009, 20:17

Brilliant.

I understand it was originally 1hr 20min long, but they editied out the
tea break. Of course the problem is the British continued building cars
the same way which is why there is almost no indigenous British industry
today.

I wonder if they had a company song like Austin:

THE AUSTIN UNITY SONG

Unity of purpose is our watchword day by day,
In all we do and say,
Marching on our way,
Holding it before us as through life we go along,
Hear the happy throng,
Sing the Austin song.


Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
No shirkers, all workers,
All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
We stand united with Austin as our aim.


Loyal co-operation is the test of brotherhood,
Working as men should,
For the common good,
Each for all, our motto, as the race of life we run,
Striving all as one,
Through the years to come.


Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
No shirkers, all workers,
All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
We stand united with Austin as our aim.

Douglas

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Lodge
Sent: Friday, 6 November 2009 8:42 a.m.
To: MG T List; JohnD
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931

Fascinating!  Thanks, John.  (If I were the foreman I'd get some new
trestles
made up, those look as though they're on their last legs!)  Elf &
safety?
Regards, Lodge

--- On Thu, 5/11/09, JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com> wrote:

From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 3:49 AM

Maybe you guys have seen this already, but I found it a real treat.
Hold your breath when you get to the spray booth!

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826

 Watch in full frame. Long, silent film.
John Deikis
Chelsea, MI
*Racing in the Past Lane!*
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From johnsfolly at gmail.com  Mon Nov  9 11:04:19 2009
From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 13:04:19 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
In-Reply-To: <C2BB5583A33E49DCAE800875C63CD050@JQLT070909>
References: <a2c981b90911041949u69a45aedmb6322c063e480f1e@mail.gmail.com>
	<202855.11398.qm@web24305.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC441318AC@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
	<C2BB5583A33E49DCAE800875C63CD050@JQLT070909>
Message-ID: <a2c981b90911091004j6eed3a44ra938c5b3511ceb8c@mail.gmail.com>

That sounds quite familiar.
John Deikis
Metro Detroit
*America's housing bargain*
On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 11:25 PM, John Quilter <jquilter at peoplepc.com> wrote:

> ...management's inability to study the market, and
> particularly the overseas markets, and, without xenophobic prejudice,
> design
> and build cars that suited the markets in both the basic product and
> quality
> and durability in service.
>
> John F. Quilter
> Brisbane, California
> 32 year veteran of the British auto industry
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Ormrod" <
> Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz>
>
> To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 12:17 PM
>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
>
>
> Brilliant.
>>
>> I understand it was originally 1hr 20min long, but they editied out the
>> tea break. Of course the problem is the British continued building cars
>> the same way which is why there is almost no indigenous British industry
>> today.
>>
>> I wonder if they had a company song like Austin:
>>
>> THE AUSTIN UNITY SONG
>>
>> Unity of purpose is our watchword day by day,
>> In all we do and say,
>> Marching on our way,
>> Holding it before us as through life we go along,
>> Hear the happy throng,
>> Sing the Austin song.
>>
>>
>> Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
>> Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
>> No shirkers, all workers,
>> All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
>> Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
>> Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
>> We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
>> We stand united with Austin as our aim.
>>
>>
>> Loyal co-operation is the test of brotherhood,
>> Working as men should,
>> For the common good,
>> Each for all, our motto, as the race of life we run,
>> Striving all as one,
>> Through the years to come.
>>
>>
>> Refrain - We stand united, with Austin as our aim,
>> Our path is lighted with progress for the flame,
>> No shirkers, all workers,
>> All playing the game for goodwill and fame;
>> Shoulder to shoulder, secure against a fall,
>> Bolder and bolder, we'll try to conquer all,
>> We'll fight for, do right for the good of our name,
>> We stand united with Austin as our aim.
>>
>> Douglas
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of David Lodge
>> Sent: Friday, 6 November 2009 8:42 a.m.
>> To: MG T List; JohnD
>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
>>
>> Fascinating!  Thanks, John.  (If I were the foreman I'd get some new
>> trestles
>> made up, those look as though they're on their last legs!)  Elf &
>> safety?
>> Regards, Lodge
>>
>> --- On Thu, 5/11/09, JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> From: JohnD <johnsfolly at gmail.com>
>> Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
>> To: "MG T List" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Thursday, 5 November, 2009, 3:49 AM
>>
>> Maybe you guys have seen this already, but I found it a real treat.
>> Hold your breath when you get to the spray booth!
>>
>> http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826
>>
>> Watch in full frame. Long, silent film.
>> John Deikis
>> Chelsea, MI
>> *Racing in the Past Lane!*
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>>
>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>>
>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>>
>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
Racing in the Past Lane!

From sales at justbrits.com  Mon Nov  9 19:05:58 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:05:58 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] [Fwd: [Spridgets] Interesting cars for sale]
Message-ID: <4AF8CA86.5090003@justbrits.com>

 From a pal of mine on the Spridgets List.
He IS quite LBC  knowledgeable.

<quote>
-------- Original Message --------

So the weird 70 degree temps continued today and I drove the Alfa to work. 
In my little town of Roscoe IL I drove by an orange Datsun 2000 roadster 
for sale (rough shape), and 2 miles down the road a white chrome bumpered 
MGB (nice shape). If anyone has any real interest, let me know and I'll be 
more than happy to check them out. This is ~90 miles west of Chicago, 45 
south of Madison WI.
</quote>

If anybody is interested, lemme know & I'll put you in contact.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Tue Nov 10 08:48:13 2009
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 10:48:13 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
Message-ID: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>

Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the width
of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of the
bar. 

It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.

This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?

Tks

Cheers

Gene

Vermont

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 10 09:34:15 2009
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:34:15 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
In-Reply-To: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
References: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W196828BEE6E956CD964DCBB7AB0@phx.gbl>

Hi Gene,
I don't know a lot about the TD, but I'd guess it's the tonneau bar.
The TF has two tonneau bars, since it has two bucket seats.  They keep the
tonneau snug against the seat, and prevent the full tonneau from flapping in
the wind.

-Mike Eldred
Wilmington, VT
'54 MG TF
'73 Midget
'51 Willys M38

> From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 10:48:13 -0500
> Subject: [Mg-t] Question
>
> Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the
width
> of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of the
> bar.
>
> It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
> adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.
>
> This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?
>
> Tks
>
> Cheers
>
> Gene
>
> Vermont
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/

From taterry at aol.com  Tue Nov 10 09:35:18 2009
From: taterry at aol.com (taterry at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:35:18 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
In-Reply-To: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
References: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <8CC303AEC11F901-1534-5800@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com>

Gene, ths commonly called "the blanket bar".  It supported the factory
supplied tonneau cover which did not cover the seats.........
Terry


-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Fodor <crownwheel at surfglobal.net>
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Nov 10, 2009 7:48 am
Subject: [Mg-t] Question



Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the
width
of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of
the
bar.

It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.

This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?

Tks

Cheers

Gene

Vermont
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From jbenajes at mot.upv.es  Tue Nov 10 09:39:43 2009
From: jbenajes at mot.upv.es (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jes=FAs_Benajes?=)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:39:43 +0100
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
In-Reply-To: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <200911101639.nAAGdgAr017574@smtp.upv.es>

Hi,

I guess that you are referring to the bar used for tucking the tonneau
cover.

Regard.

Jeszs


-----Mensaje original-----
De: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] En
nombre de Gene Fodor
Enviado el: martes, 10 de noviembre de 2009 16:48
Para: mg-t at autox.team.net
Asunto: [Mg-t] Question

Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the width
of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of the
bar.

It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.

This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?

Tks

Cheers

Gene

Vermont
_______________________________________________

From lawrie at britcars.com  Tue Nov 10 09:41:52 2009
From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 08:41:52 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
References: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <F4C4778ACD6342E3B4D9EBD9E0F35B54@shop>

Known as a "blanket bar", Gene, perhaps on some cars it was a place to hang 
the blanket that was needed to keep passengers' legs warm in pre-heater 
days.  However, on the TD its function was to support the front of the 
half-tonneau cover, which tucked over it then had elastic straps leading 
down to studs on the back of the seat near the bottom.

Lawrie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gene Fodor" <crownwheel at surfglobal.net>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 7:48 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] Question


> Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the 
> width
> of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of 
> the
> bar.
>
> It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
> adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.
>
> This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?
>
> Tks
>
> Cheers
>
> Gene
>
> Vermont
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From tcsyd at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 10 09:52:34 2009
From: tcsyd at sbcglobal.net (Syd Saperstein)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 08:52:34 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
In-Reply-To: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
References: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <DF3322B8-B4FD-49BD-B5A7-FAEA80CA0DC4@sbcglobal.net>

Been a long time since I had one, but does it have something to do with the
1/2 tonneau?   Seems to me there are snap buttons down there somewhere that
anchored elastic straps attached to the 1/2 tonneau and the fabric of the 1/2
tonneau fed through the pace created in front of the rod.  The back of the
tonneau snapped onto the back body and the arrangement kept the 1/2 tonneau
taught.  Just a foggy recollection of this floating around in my brain,
though.

TCSYD
On Nov 10, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Gene Fodor wrote:

> Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the
width
> of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of the
> bar.
>
> It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
> adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.
>
> This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?
>
> Tks
>
> Cheers
>
> Gene
>
> Vermont
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From scvc70 at epix.net  Tue Nov 10 09:55:17 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:55:17 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
References: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <C56B9A98B9224681B6F974AF4F5E2D6E@S0026273562>

I believe the original tonneau was only a half-tonneau, and the bar was 
meant to hold it taut.

Sarah Carr
TD3942EXLU in PA




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gene Fodor" <crownwheel at surfglobal.net>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 10:48 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] Question


> Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the 
> width
> of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of 
> the
> bar.
>
> It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
> adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.
>
> This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?
>
> Tks
>
> Cheers
>
> Gene
>
> Vermont
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From budkrueger at comcast.net  Tue Nov 10 10:20:08 2009
From: budkrueger at comcast.net (Bud Krueger)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 12:20:08 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
In-Reply-To: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
References: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <4AF9A0C8.7020604@comcast.net>

Gene, the OEM tonneau cover goes over the bar and snaps onto the two 
fasteners at the lower edge of the seat back.

Bud Krueger

Gene Fodor wrote:
> Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the width
> of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of the
> bar. 
>
> It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
> adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.
>
> This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?
>
> Tks
>
> Cheers
>
> Gene
>
> Vermont
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Tue Nov 10 11:00:50 2009
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:00:50 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] My Question and all your replies...
Message-ID: <005801ca622f$bd181ee0$37485ca0$@net>

Listers . will my education ever end? I hope not. 

Indeed it is the bar for the tonneau cover. Lister Dallas Congleton sent a
great pix of one in use.

Thanks to all!

Cheers

Gene

Vermont

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Tue Nov 10 12:07:11 2009
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 08:07:11 +1300
Subject: [Mg-t] Abingdon, 1931
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4402BF89@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
References: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC441318AC@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
	<409156.36810.qm@web24304.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC4402BF89@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44131960@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

Em, well I was joking - I am well aware that new trestles were purchased
in 1953, and bigger hammers were issued in 1963 to help the parts fit
together better.



Until the 1980's invasion of the second hand Japanese car imports into
NZ I was mainly limited in choice to British cars of the 60's - Morris
Minors, Mini, Austin and Morris 1100s and 1300s. While I loved them all
- they were poorly built and there was never a time when something did
not need fixed - guess that is how I learned to mend cars - so not
complaining.



Cheers



Douglas



Hello Doug,



Well, er........no!.  I remember going on a school trip to Birmingham
and Coventry in 58 or 59, and one of the highlights for me (apart from
the Cadbury's chocolate factory) was the Standard/Triumph factory, and
the assembly lines churning out Vanguard IIIs and TR 3As were absolutely
unrecognisable to those of Abingdon in the clip.  In fact, to my young
and untutored eyes it may as well have been the set of a science fiction
film: all gleaming metal and bustle.

As anyone who lived through it will be glad to tell you, the demise of
the British car industry has much more to do with political interference
- from the left and right; in government and out - than outdated
manufacturing processes.   Ironic that the late leader of the Trades
Union Congress has recently been exposed as a Soviet plant.  Obvious to
anyone on the outside!



Regards, Lodge




A

From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Nov 10 23:25:47 2009
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 22:25:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
In-Reply-To: <003101ca621d$36b07cb0$a4117610$@net>
Message-ID: <245902.64833.qm@web24301.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hello Gene,
Well, on the TC it's a forward support for the half-tonneau which loops over
the bar between the seat back and the bar.  The elastic straps clip lower down
the seat back, if memory serves!
Regards, Lodge

--- On Tue, 10/11/09, Gene Fodor <crownwheel at surfglobal.net> wrote:

From: Gene Fodor <crownwheel at surfglobal.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Question
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, 10 November, 2009, 15:48

Good Day Listers . on the TD's seat back, there is a bar that runs the width
of the back. It is attached to the back by 4 screws - 2 on each side of the
bar.

It does seem to have any specific purpose as the tilt of the back is
adjusted by another assembly located immediately below the bar.

This is kind of a trivial question, but does anyone know it purpose?

Tks

Cheers

Gene

Vermont
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 11 11:40:31 2009
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 10:40:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
Message-ID: <722764.44299.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,


It's been a while since I've been on the list, and I've missed it.


As some of you may remember, I have a '52 TD.


The battery is no longer charging.  At 3500rpm the charge light is on,
the
ammeter is on zero, and when I put a voltmeter on the battery it's
at 12.4
volts.


The generator was re-built by a local armature shop five years ago.


I had the Reg converted to solid state four years ago by a gentleman on my
list.


Two questions:


1.  How do I use the voltmeter to test if the Gen or the Reg is the problem?


2.  Does anyone remember who does the OEM to solid state conversions? 
I
believe he was somewhere up in NH or Vermont and I can't find the
receipt...


Any help appreciated, and it's good to be back,


Scott Allen


52 TD

74 1/2 BGT

From TATERRY at aol.com  Wed Nov 11 13:45:17 2009
From: TATERRY at aol.com (TATERRY at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:45:17 EST
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
Message-ID: <d08.675dd076.382c7c5d@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/11/2009 11:16:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
s4usea at yahoo.com writes:


> 
> 1.  How do I use the voltmeter to test if the Gen or the Reg is the 
> problem?
> 
> 
> 2.  Does anyone remember who does the OEM to solid state conversions? 
> I
> believe he was somewhere up in NH or Vermont and I can't find the
> receipt...
> 
> 
> 

Scott, if your car has been sitting for a long time you might need to flash 
the fields to restore the magnatism.  To see if the gennie is ok, disconnet 
the wires to it and connect the two generator terminals together then put a 
voltmeter on the connector and start the engine, don't rev too high, you 
should see the voltage rise....I'm saying this from memory so I hope others 
will chime in.  If it does, its not the generator.

The regulator guy is: bobj50 at comcast.net (R. K. (Bob) Jeffers)

Terry

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Wed Nov 11 14:45:45 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:45:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
In-Reply-To: <722764.44299.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <722764.44299.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2085.75.92.178.86.1257975945.squirrel@webmail.donobi.net>

Scott,

Terry has it right for testing the generator, but for detailed
instructions, see the article, Testing a Dynamo/Generator in the Other
Tech Articles section of my web site at:
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

The gentleman you are looking for is Bob Jeffers.  His e-mail address is
in the article above.

To flash the generator, remove your cloths, get a rain coat...oops, wrong
flashing.  Seriously, disconnect the two wires from the generator, connect
a piece of wire to the large terminal on the generator, quickly wipe the
other end of the wire across whichever battery terminal is not connected
to ground once or twice (you should see some arcing when you do that). 
Disconnect the jumper wire and reconnect the wires removed.

Cheers,
Dave

> Hi,
>
>
> It's been a while since I've been on the list, and I've missed it.
>
>
> As some of you may remember, I have a '52 TD.
>
>
> The battery is no longer charging.  At 3500rpm the charge light is on,
> the
> ammeter is on zero, and when I put a voltmeter on the battery it's
> at 12.4
> volts.
>
>
> The generator was re-built by a local armature shop five years ago.
>
>
> I had the Reg converted to solid state four years ago by a gentleman on my
> list.
>
>
> Two questions:
>
>
> 1.  How do I use the voltmeter to test if the Gen or the Reg is the
> problem?
>
>
> 2.  Does anyone remember who does the OEM to solid state conversions?
> I
> believe he was somewhere up in NH or Vermont and I can't find the
> receipt...
>
>
> Any help appreciated, and it's good to be back,
>
>
> Scott Allen
>
>
> 52 TD
>
> 74 1/2 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Nov 11 15:04:02 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:04:02 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
Message-ID: <20091111.170403.688.24.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Scott,
   Nice to see you back on the T list.
   Workshop manual tells how to check gen output.  Best to go by the book
for this, but in short you remove cables A and A1 from the control box,
connect together, then connect "moving coil" (that's our ordinary
analogue meter) voltmeter to D terminal on the gen and earth.  Run the
engine revs up until meter steadies and the volts should show 16.1-16.7
at 50 degrees F, 15.8-16.4 at 68, 15.6-16.2 at 86 degrees.   
   Bob Jeffers, 10 Stony Brook Dr, Wilton NH 03086, makes a solid state
regulator conversion. It may be he who did yours.  There was someone in
CT a few years back who was doing them, but I do not remember his name.
Bob
 
On Wed, 11 Nov 2009 10:40:31 -0800 (PST) S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
writes:
> Hi, 
> It's been a while since I've been on the list, and I've missed it.
> As some of you may remember, I have a '52 TD.> The battery is no longer
charging.  At 3500rpm the charge light is 
> on, the ammeter is on zero, and when I put a voltmeter on the battery
it's at 12.4 volts.> 
> The generator was re-built by a local armature shop five years ago.> 
> I had the Reg converted to solid state four years ago by a gentleman 
> on my list. 
> Two questions: 
> 1.  How do I use the voltmeter to test if the Gen or the Reg is the 
> problem? 
> 2.  Does anyone remember who does the OEM to solid state 
> conversions?  I believe he was somewhere up in NH or Vermont and I
can't find the
> receipt...
> 
> 
> Any help appreciated, and it's good to be back,
> 
> 
> Scott Allen
> 
> 
> 52 TD
> 
> 74 1/2 BGT
____________________________________________________________
Instant Health Insurance
Get fast, free health insurance quotes online now in 2 minutes.
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From ddubois at sinclair.net  Wed Nov 11 17:17:40 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:17:40 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] [Fwd: Re:  TD Charging Problem]
Message-ID: <4AFB5424.7090003@sinclair.net>

Terry,

You are right, got my wires crossed - Scott, put the jumper wire on the 
smaller terminal of the generator.

Cheers,
Dave

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Re: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
Date: 	Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:30:32 -0500
From: 	taterry at aol.com
To: 	ddubois at sinclair.net
References: 	<2085.75.92.178.86.1257975945.squirrel at webmail.donobi.net>



Dave, I always flash the fields, not the armature....it looks pretty 
much like a short circuit....but maybe either works.
Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave and Liz DuBois <ddubois at sinclair.net>
To: S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Nov 11, 2009 1:45 pm
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem

Scott,

Terry has it right for testing the generator, but for detailed
instructions, see the article, Testing a Dynamo/Generator in the Other
Tech Articles section of my web site at:
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

The gentleman you are looking for is Bob Jeffers.  His e-mail address is
in the article above.

To flash the generator, remove your cloths, get a rain coat...oops, 
wrong
flashing.  Seriously, disconnect the two wires from the generator, 
connect
a piece of wire to the large terminal on the generator, quickly wipe the
other end of the wire across whichever battery terminal is not connected
to ground once or twice (you should see some arcing when you do that).
Disconnect the jumper wire and reconnect the wires removed.

Cheers,
Dave

> Hi,
>
>
> It's been a while since I've been on the list, and I've missed it.
>
>
> As some of you may remember, I have a '52 TD.
>
>
> The battery is no longer charging.  At 3500rpm the charge light is on,
> the
> ammeter is on zero, and when I put a voltmeter on the battery it's
> at 12.4
> volts.
>
>
> The generator was re-built by a local armature shop five years ago.
>
>
> I had the Reg converted to solid state four years ago by a gentleman 
on my
> list.
>
>
> Two questions:
>
>
> 1.  How do I use the voltmeter to test if the Gen or the Reg is the
> problem?
>
>
> 2.  Does anyone remember who does the OEM to solid state conversions?
> I
> believe he was somewhere up in NH or Vermont and I can't find the
> receipt...
>
>
> Any help appreciated, and it's good to be back,
>
>
> Scott Allen
>
>
> 52 TD
>
> 74 1/2 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 12 11:28:07 2009
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 10:28:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
In-Reply-To: <20091111.170403.688.24.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <557459.28802.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My thanks to everyone for their replies.

I don't think the generator needs to be flashed as my father drove the '52
regularly while I was overseas, to include picking me up at the airport the
week before.  At that time, when I drove it home from his house to mine in the
dark I noticed the charge light glowing faintly regardless of the rev range
and wrote it off to it being dark and me running the heater.  A few days later
when I hopped in it was full-on red for the whole drive.

After digging out my manual from the basement, (thanks Charlie) it says to
connect a wire to the (removed) D and F wires on the Reg.  Dave's helpful
article says to test both at the Gen's terminals and the Reg's D and F.  Is
there a consensus on this?

Also, the manual says to test using the pos wire as ground on the volmeter, (I
have a digital).  Is this true?

Again, thank you for all of the replies.  Now I have to figure out why the
dizzy on my BGT doesn't have any spark...

Thank you again,

Scott Allen

52 TD
74 1/2 BGT

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Thu Nov 12 12:36:56 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 11:36:56 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
In-Reply-To: <557459.28802.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <557459.28802.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AFC63D8.6070602@sinclair.net>

Scott,

> After digging out my manual from the basement, (thanks Charlie) it says to connect a wire to the (removed) D and F wires on the Reg.  Dave's helpful article says to test both at the Gen's terminals and the Reg's D and F.
You can follow either instruction.  I choose to disconnect the wires at 
the generator since there are ring terminals on the wires at that end, 
there is less chance of damaging the bare ends of the wire at the 
regulator end.  Further, my set of instructions have you checking the 
generator alone, without the regulator attached so that you get a clear 
indication if the generator is working properly or not.  Once it is 
determined that the generator is working properly, then the wires 
removed from either the generator or the regulator are reattached and 
the generator/regulator are tested as a system to see if the regulator 
is setting the output voltage at the correct level.

> Also, the manual says to test using the pos wire as ground on the volmeter
That applies if your car is still wired for positive ground.  If the 
polarity of the car has been changed to negative ground, then the 
negative lead of the meter is the one attached to ground.  A digital 
meter is a bad choice for this test as it doesn't show a smooth swing as 
the voltage increases (instead, a digital waits for a sample period 
first, during which time the voltage can increase a considerable amount, 
giving you a jerky response).  If you have a friend or acquaintance  who 
has an analog meter, borrow that to make these tests.  A digital will 
work, but the indication is not as easy to interpret.

> (I have a digital)

A digital meter is a bad choice for this test as it doesn't show a 
smooth swing as the voltage increases (instead, a digital waits for a 
sample period first, during which time the voltage can increase a 
considerable amount, giving you a jerky response).  If you have a friend 
or acquaintance  who has an analog meter, borrow that to make these 
tests.  A digital will work, but the indication is not as easy to interpret.

Cheers,
Dave

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Nov 12 13:15:37 2009
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 15:15:37 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
Message-ID: <20091112.151550.3244.9.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Scott,
   You may not need to flash the generator, but it's something that is
easy and does no harm.  
   Checking the wires at the regulator tells you condition of both gen
and wires. At the gen, it tests gen only.  You can do whichever is easier
for you as it's unlikely that the wires have perished. 
   For polarity, you would ground to Pos if the car is still earthed as
it was built ( Pos earth)  If it has been changed to Neg earth, then
ground the voltmeter to the neg wire.  Voltmeter should show the voltage
either way though, pos or neg, but voltage should be indicated. 
    Changing from pos to neg or back to pos is when you do need to flash
the generator.  It gens equally well with either polarity, but flashing
tells it which is which.   
    While you're sleuthing around at this, slide back the cover band on
the dynamo and look at the brushes.  They may be worn and not making good
contact. Weak then no charge can be that they were just worn down, then
worn out.  
Bob

On Thu, 12 Nov 2009 10:28:07 -0800 (PST) S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
writes:
> My thanks to everyone for their replies.
> 
> I don't think the generator needs to be flashed as my father drove 
> the '52 regularly while I was overseas, to include picking me up at the

> airport the week before.  At that time, when I drove it home from his
house to 
> mine in the dark I noticed the charge light glowing faintly regardless
of the 
> rev range and wrote it off to it being dark and me running the heater. 
A few 
> days later when I hopped in it was full-on red for the whole drive.
> 
> After digging out my manual from the basement, (thanks Charlie) it 
> says to connect a wire to the (removed) D and F wires on the Reg. 
Dave's 
> helpful article says to test both at the Gen's terminals and the Reg's
D and 
> F.  Is there a consensus on this?
> 
> Also, the manual says to test using the pos wire as ground on the 
> volmeter, (I have a digital).  Is this true?
> 
> Again, thank you for all of the replies.  Now I have to figure out 
> why the dizzy on my BGT doesn't have any spark...
> 
> Thank you again,
> 
> Scott Allen
> 
> 52 TD
> 74 1/2 BGT
____________________________________________________________
Weight Loss Program
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=g5Fr2yWR0vmjC-bpU3oPywAAJ1AZtbtuTpx5SVCdlh4YnsjUAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEUgAAAAA=

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 12 21:04:07 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 22:04:07 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] sacred octagon
Message-ID: <268701D4AB0046DC8D44BBFDB662113F@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

anyone know when the latest issue will "hit the stands."

i need some good reading material!!!!

From tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 13 06:01:53 2009
From: tsouthworth70 at hotmail.com (Tuck Southworth)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 08:01:53 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] sacred octagon
In-Reply-To: <268701D4AB0046DC8D44BBFDB662113F@ranteer.local>
References: <268701D4AB0046DC8D44BBFDB662113F@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W10DF36CB692736C1FEA2E3BFA80@phx.gbl>

That would be the Dec. issue which should be at the printers now.  Look for it
during the last week in Nov.

Tuck

> From: sumton at sbcglobal.net
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 22:04:07 -0600
> Subject: [Mg-t] sacred octagon
>
> hi, all.
>
> anyone know when the latest issue will "hit the stands."
>
> i need some good reading material!!!!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 15 12:22:09 2009
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 11:22:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
In-Reply-To: <20091112.151550.3244.9.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <38291.94999.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,

I'd like to thank everyone for their kind and considerate replies in regards
to the charging problem on my TD.  With the generator isolated I have less
than a volt on it, which is pretty definitive. 

Some time this week I'll take it off the car and go over it on the workbench
and see what can be done.

Thank everyone again,

Scott Allen

52TD
74 1/2 BGT

--- On Thu, 11/12/09, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Charging Problem
To: s4usea at yahoo.com
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, November 12, 2009, 3:15 PM

Hi Scott,
   You may not need to flash the generator, but it's something that is
easy and does no harm. 
   Checking the wires at the regulator tells you condition of both gen
and wires. At the gen, it tests gen only.  You can do whichever is easier
for you as it's unlikely that the wires have perished.
   For polarity, you would ground to Pos if the car is still earthed as
it was built ( Pos earth)  If it has been changed to Neg earth, then
ground the voltmeter to the neg wire.  Voltmeter should show the voltage
either way though, pos or neg, but voltage should be indicated.
    Changing from pos to neg or back to pos is when you do need to flash
the generator.  It gens equally well with either polarity, but flashing
tells it which is which.   
    While you're sleuthing around at this, slide back the cover band on
the dynamo and look at the brushes.  They may be worn and not making good
contact. Weak then no charge can be that they were just worn down, then
worn out. 
Bob

On Thu, 12 Nov 2009 10:28:07 -0800 (PST) S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
writes:
> My thanks to everyone for their replies.
>
> I don't think the generator needs to be flashed as my father drove
> the '52 regularly while I was overseas, to include picking me up at the

> airport the week before.  At that time, when I drove it home from his
house to
> mine in the dark I noticed the charge light glowing faintly regardless
of the
> rev range and wrote it off to it being dark and me running the heater.
A few
> days later when I hopped in it was full-on red for the whole drive.
>
> After digging out my manual from the basement, (thanks Charlie) it
> says to connect a wire to the (removed) D and F wires on the Reg.
Dave's
> helpful article says to test both at the Gen's terminals and the Reg's
D and
> F.  Is there a consensus on this?
>
> Also, the manual says to test using the pos wire as ground on the
> volmeter, (I have a digital).  Is this true?
>
> Again, thank you for all of the replies.  Now I have to figure out
> why the dizzy on my BGT doesn't have any spark...
>
> Thank you again,
>
> Scott Allen
>
> 52 TD
> 74 1/2 BGT
____________________________________________________________
Weight Loss Program
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=7YLEBxC9OxJwW3oXAszZQQAAJ1ApvWW
FliQdXJXf18r9ydzGAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEUgAAAAA=

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 15 20:20:49 2009
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:20:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
Message-ID: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,

So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked which
allowed enough play in the shaft for it to beat itself to death.

Two questions.  First Moss sells a "new" one, but I haven't had much luck with
Moss electricals.  Does anyone have any thoughts?

Second, if I shouldn't go with the Moss option, does anyone on the list know a
place that does good, quality re-builds?

Also, while I'm at it, does anyone know a place that does good, quality
distributor re-builds?  The BGT's is overdue...

Thank you in advance,

Scott Allen

52 TD
74 1/2 BT

From peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 15 21:03:02 2009
From: peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net (peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:03:02 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw:  TD Generator Failure Cause...
Message-ID: <9F38894E76A84621AC2F710E0524271A@OURS>

 Hi Scott,
    I had my Lucas generator rebuilt by a place in Hamden, CT. They do all
 kinds of electrical equipment, and I've used them 10-15 times for non-LBC
 work, so I gave them a try for the TD. The field coils were bad, and they
 were able to find reasonable facsimiles. My generator came back charging
 more than specs, though I can't remember the details. It's the kind of 
place
 where you walk right into the shop, and you can talk to the guy doing the
 work. My kind of place.

 NRE Auto Electric Rebuilders
 35 Warner St.,
 Hamden, CT
 203 777-2333

 Mike is one of the principals there, and they do good work at reasonable
 prices.
Standard disclaimer applies: no personal interest or relation, blah, blah, 
blah.

 Pete Thiel
53 TD

 ----- Original Message ----- 
 From: "S Allen" <s4usea at yahoo.com>
 To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 10:20 PM
 Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...


> Hi,
>
> So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked which
> allowed enough play in the shaft for it to beat itself to death.
>
> Two questions.  First Moss sells a "new" one, but I haven't had much luck 
> with
> Moss electricals.  Does anyone have any thoughts?
>
 Second, if I shouldn't go with the Moss option, does anyone on the list
> know a
> place that does good, quality re-builds?
>
> Also, while I'm at it, does anyone know a place that does good, quality
> distributor re-builds?  The BGT's is overdue...
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Scott Allen
>
> 52 TD
> 74 1/2 BT
 _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From taterry at aol.com  Sun Nov 15 21:08:19 2009
From: taterry at aol.com (taterry at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:08:19 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC3489907D860D-26A8-9B34@webmail-stg-d12.sysops.aol.com>

Scott, there is a place in Atlanta that makes new armatures complete,
try www.semgtr.org maybe its .com...also Jerry Felper canhandle both of
your problems .. he is in So Cal
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Nov 15, 2009 7:20 pm
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...

Hi,

So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked
which
allowed enough play in the shaft for it to beat itself to death.

Two questions.  First Moss sells a "new" one, but I haven't had much
luck with
Moss electricals.  Does anyone have any thoughts?

Second, if I shouldn't go with the Moss option, does anyone on the list
know a
place that does good, quality re-builds?

Also, while I'm at it, does anyone know a place that does good, quality
distributor re-builds?  The BGT's is overdue...

Thank you in advance,

Scott Allen

52 TD
74 1/2 BT
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 15 21:27:29 2009
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:27:29 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B00D4B1.4030201@sbcglobal.net>

Scott,
What is broken on your generator?  If it is only the bearing, a local 
electrical shop should be able to do the job.  Joe Curto mentioned on 
the TABC list that he had some TC armatures available.  You might check 
with him if that is what you need( www.joecurto.com).  He normally only 
does carbs but comes across other stuff from time to time.  Otherwise, I 
don't have any suggestions.

And on your distributor, I haven't used them yet, but I've heard glowing 
reviews about Advanced Distributors (http://www.advanceddistributors.com/ )

Regards,
Charles Hill

S Allen wrote:
> Hi,
>
> So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked which
> allowed enough play in the shaft for it to beat itself to death.
>
> Two questions.  First Moss sells a "new" one, but I haven't had much luck with
> Moss electricals.  Does anyone have any thoughts?
>
> Second, if I shouldn't go with the Moss option, does anyone on the list know a
> place that does good, quality re-builds?
>
> Also, while I'm at it, does anyone know a place that does good, quality
> distributor re-builds?  The BGT's is overdue...
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Scott Allen
>
> 52 TD
> 74 1/2 BT

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Sun Nov 15 22:01:21 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:01:21 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B00DCA1.9010700@sinclair.net>

Scott,

Any good auto electric shop (NOT Auto Zone or any of the other discount 
houses that happen to have an electrical test bench in the back) can 
rebuild your generator, but with the build up that Pete T. gives to the 
shop he has used, I would go there if it is anywhere near you.  You can 
get new armatures from Holcombe Armature Co., 905 Rockmart Hwy., Villa 
Rica, GA 30310  800-241-3027.  The also offer a complete rebuild kit.  
The armatures are for the later generators, but will work in the older 
ones and will supply more current than the older generator, so you can 
have your generator rebuilt and upgraded all in the same operation.

Distributor rebuilds are done by Jeff Schlemmer  at Advanced 
Distributor  jeff at advanceddistributors.com  
www.advanceddistributors.com  He restored the distributor in our TD and 
what he sent back was like brand new.

Chers,
Dave

From budkrueger at comcast.net  Mon Nov 16 05:44:09 2009
From: budkrueger at comcast.net (Bud Krueger)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:44:09 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B014919.3010608@comcast.net>

Scott, you might take a look at http://www.ttalk.info/Holcombe.htm for a 
view of installing an armature from Holcombe.

Bud Krueger

S Allen wrote:
> Hi,
>
> So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked which
> allowed enough play in the shaft for it to beat itself to death.
>
> Two questions.  First Moss sells a "new" one, but I haven't had much luck with
> Moss electricals.  Does anyone have any thoughts?
>
> Second, if I shouldn't go with the Moss option, does anyone on the list know a
> place that does good, quality re-builds?
>
> Also, while I'm at it, does anyone know a place that does good, quality
> distributor re-builds?  The BGT's is overdue...
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Scott Allen
>
> 52 TD
> 74 1/2 BT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From nels at flightsim.com  Mon Nov 16 05:59:06 2009
From: nels at flightsim.com (Nels Anderson)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:59:06 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B014C9A.1060007@flightsim.com>

I've been running the Moss replacement generator for over six years now 
and for me it has worked just fine.

--Nels Anderson
  53 TD

S Allen wrote:
> Hi,
>
> So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked which
> allowed enough play in the shaft for it to beat itself to death.
>
> Two questions.  First Moss sells a "new" one, but I haven't had much luck with
> Moss electricals.  Does anyone have any thoughts?
>
> Second, if I shouldn't go with the Moss option, does anyone on the list know a
> place that does good, quality re-builds?
>
> Also, while I'm at it, does anyone know a place that does good, quality
> distributor re-builds?  The BGT's is overdue...
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Scott Allen
>
> 52 TD
> 74 1/2 BT

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Nov 16 07:05:38 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 09:05:38 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <4B014919.3010608@comcast.net>
References: <372241.77254.qm@web37406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4B014919.3010608@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B015C32.6030401@comcast.net>

I got one of the Holcombe kits when they were being offered.  Mr. 
Holcombe has since passed on, but the company still exists.  I had an 
armature for my Austin-Healey that needed to be rebuilt, so got in 
touch.  They rebuilt it just fine.  Do a search for Holcombe Armature 
Company.  It comes up with Holcombe Direct or something like that.  Use 
the "contact us" button and ask them about rebuilding yours.
Charlie

Bud Krueger wrote:
> Scott, you might take a look at http://www.ttalk.info/Holcombe.htm for 
> a view of installing an armature from Holcombe.
>
> Bud Krueger
>
> S Allen wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked 
>> which
>> allowed enough play in the shaft for it to beat itself to death.
>>
>> Two questions.  First Moss sells a "new" one, but I haven't had much 
>> luck with
>> Moss electricals.  Does anyone have any thoughts?
>>
>> Second, if I shouldn't go with the Moss option, does anyone on the 
>> list know a
>> place that does good, quality re-builds?
>>
>> Also, while I'm at it, does anyone know a place that does good, quality
>> distributor re-builds?  The BGT's is overdue...
>>
>> Thank you in advance,
>>
>> Scott Allen
>>
>> 52 TD
>> 74 1/2 BT
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>>
>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 16 13:10:26 2009
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:10:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <20091116.125357.4016.12.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <164942.47183.qm@web37403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks to everyone for all of the great advice.  I'll have to give some
thought on the generator, as the date on it indicates that it probably came
out of an A or other BritCar, so if the Moss ones are okay, than they're as
viable an option as a re-build as originality isn't a question.
 
Also, thank you for the recommendation to use Jeff Schlemmer for my dizzy
re-build.  I'll be sending it to him shortly.
 
Thanks to everyone again,
 
Scott Allen
 
52 TD
74 1/2 BGT

--- On Mon, 11/16/09, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:


From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
To: s4usea at yahoo.com
Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 12:53 PM


Hi Scott,
   I see that you have received several good suggestions about the
generator and distributor.  Pete Thiel keeps his machinery in good
fettle. If he likes an outfit, it's a good outfit.  My favorite old guy
died, so if I have need of dynamo repair, I will go to Pete's guy.
   Jeff Schlemmer does nice work.  He did my MGB distributor for me two
winters back when I was rebuilding.  It didn't have the right distributor
in the engine, something I asked him about, and his answer was that if
it's a 25D which is right for the pre-rubber bumper engines like ours,
then the five or six diget #s are model #s that reflect springs & advance
curves for whatver emission spec MG was trying to meet at that time.
   His approach, which suited me perfectly, was to say that he curves the
distributor to your engine, so he asks compression, camshaft spec, carbs,
manifolding, exhaust etc, then fits the right bits inside the distributor
to best fit the engine.            As I had rebuilt with .060 overbore,
raised compression to UK specs for 1972, polished & ported the head,
manifold as much as I could reach, ran Falcon exhaust, etc, he took mine
and rebuilt to whatever he thought best for those changes.  Everyone in
our CT club who has had Jeff work on distributors has been very pleased.
Those done by him include early & late MGB, MGA, TD, Jaguar and Sunbeam,
so I guess he has earned the good reputation.   He's quick and reasonable
too.
Bob

On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:20:49 -0800 (PST) S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
writes:
> Hi,
>
> So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked
____________________________________________________________
Hotel
Hotel pics, info and virtual tours.  Click here to book a hotel online.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=_x_7-IOWA899PsuaFyjJGgAAJ1ApvWW
FliQdXJXf18r9ydzGAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA=

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 16 13:58:02 2009
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:58:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <4B01BA66.1090609@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <564773.65964.qm@web37404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Charlie,
 
Looking over some docs from when I had the engine rebuilt there's a note that
it's from a Sprite.
 
Good catch,
 
Scott

--- On Mon, 11/16/09, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
To: "S Allen" <s4usea at yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 3:47 PM


Scott,
Your generator may have come from a Sprite which the early ones had a tach
drive like the TD.  MGA generators don't have that.  It could also be a
replacement TD generator and that is why the date doesn't correspond to the
year of the car.
Charlie

S Allen wrote:
Thanks to everyone for all of the great advice.  I'll have to give some
thought on the generator, as the date on it indicates that it probably came
out of an A or other BritCar, so if the Moss ones are okay, than they're as
viable an option as a re-build as originality isn't a question.

Also, thank you for the recommendation to use Jeff Schlemmer for my dizzy
re-build.  I'll be sending it to him shortly.

Thanks to everyone again,

Scott Allen

52 TD
74 1/2 BGT

--- On Mon, 11/16/09, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:


From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
To: s4usea at yahoo.com
Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 12:53 PM


Hi Scott,
   I see that you have received several good suggestions about the
generator and distributor.  Pete Thiel keeps his machinery in good
fettle. If he likes an outfit, it's a good outfit.  My favorite old guy
died, so if I have need of dynamo repair, I will go to Pete's guy.
   Jeff Schlemmer does nice work.  He did my MGB distributor for me two
winters back when I was rebuilding.  It didn't have the right distributor
in the engine, something I asked him about, and his answer was that if
it's a 25D which is right for the pre-rubber bumper engines like ours,
then the five or six diget #s are model #s that reflect springs & advance
curves for whatver emission spec MG was trying to meet at that time.
   His approach, which suited me perfectly, was to say that he curves the
distributor to your engine, so he asks compression, camshaft spec, carbs,
manifolding, exhaust etc, then fits the right bits inside the distributor
to best fit the engine.            As I had rebuilt with .060 overbore,
raised compression to UK specs for 1972, polished & ported the head,
manifold as much as I could reach, ran Falcon exhaust, etc, he took mine
and rebuilt to whatever he thought best for those changes.  Everyone in
our CT club who has had Jeff work on distributors has been very pleased.
Those done by him include early & late MGB, MGA, TD, Jaguar and Sunbeam,
so I guess he has earned the good reputation.   He's quick and reasonable
too.
Bob

On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:20:49 -0800 (PST) S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
writes:

Hi,

So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked
    ____________________________________________________________
Hotel
Hotel pics, info and virtual tours.  Click here to book a hotel online.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=_x_7-IOWA899PsuaFyjJGgAAJ1ApvWW
FliQdXJXf18r9ydzGAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA=
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From felperg at earthlink.net  Mon Nov 16 16:29:20 2009
From: felperg at earthlink.net (Gerald Felper)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:29:20 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
In-Reply-To: <564773.65964.qm@web37404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <564773.65964.qm@web37404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <052347AA-F577-4A52-BD49-80786BC9CF38@earthlink.net>

Scott
Many T series cars are using Sprite generators. They do not have the  
brush inspection window, but work fine.
Jerry

On Nov 16, 2009, at 12:58 PM, S Allen wrote:

> Hi Charlie,
>
> Looking over some docs from when I had the engine rebuilt there's a  
> note that
> it's from a Sprite.
>
> Good catch,
>
> Scott
>
> --- On Mon, 11/16/09, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
> To: "S Allen" <s4usea at yahoo.com>
> Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 3:47 PM
>
>
> Scott,
> Your generator may have come from a Sprite which the early ones had  
> a tach
> drive like the TD.  MGA generators don't have that.  It could also  
> be a
> replacement TD generator and that is why the date doesn't  
> correspond to the
> year of the car.
> Charlie
>
> S Allen wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for all of the great advice.  I'll have to give  
> some
> thought on the generator, as the date on it indicates that it  
> probably came
> out of an A or other BritCar, so if the Moss ones are okay, than  
> they're as
> viable an option as a re-build as originality isn't a question.
>
> Also, thank you for the recommendation to use Jeff Schlemmer for my  
> dizzy
> re-build.  I'll be sending it to him shortly.
>
> Thanks to everyone again,
>
> Scott Allen
>
> 52 TD
> 74 1/2 BGT
>
> --- On Mon, 11/16/09, Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:
>
>
> From: Bob Howard <mgbob at juno.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Generator Failure Cause...
> To: s4usea at yahoo.com
> Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 12:53 PM
>
>
> Hi Scott,
>    I see that you have received several good suggestions about the
> generator and distributor.  Pete Thiel keeps his machinery in good
> fettle. If he likes an outfit, it's a good outfit.  My favorite old  
> guy
> died, so if I have need of dynamo repair, I will go to Pete's guy.
>    Jeff Schlemmer does nice work.  He did my MGB distributor for me  
> two
> winters back when I was rebuilding.  It didn't have the right  
> distributor
> in the engine, something I asked him about, and his answer was that if
> it's a 25D which is right for the pre-rubber bumper engines like ours,
> then the five or six diget #s are model #s that reflect springs &  
> advance
> curves for whatver emission spec MG was trying to meet at that time.
>    His approach, which suited me perfectly, was to say that he  
> curves the
> distributor to your engine, so he asks compression, camshaft spec,  
> carbs,
> manifolding, exhaust etc, then fits the right bits inside the  
> distributor
> to best fit the engine.            As I had rebuilt with .060  
> overbore,
> raised compression to UK specs for 1972, polished & ported the head,
> manifold as much as I could reach, ran Falcon exhaust, etc, he took  
> mine
> and rebuilt to whatever he thought best for those changes.   
> Everyone in
> our CT club who has had Jeff work on distributors has been very  
> pleased.
> Those done by him include early & late MGB, MGA, TD, Jaguar and  
> Sunbeam,
> so I guess he has earned the good reputation.   He's quick and  
> reasonable
> too.
> Bob
>
> On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:20:49 -0800 (PST) S Allen <s4usea at yahoo.com>
> writes:
>
> Hi,
>
> So I took apart the generator and it looks like the bearing cracked
>     ____________________________________________________________
> Hotel
> Hotel pics, info and virtual tours.  Click here to book a hotel  
> online.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=_x_7- 
> IOWA899PsuaFyjJGgAAJ1ApvWW
> FliQdXJXf18r9ydzGAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA=
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

Gerald Felper
Felper Engineering
felperg at earthlink.net

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Thu Nov 19 21:12:09 2009
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John Quilter)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:12:09 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] Fun vintage movie staring an MGTD
Message-ID: <7984B922D49242808667F7427939C81D@JQLT070909>

If you would like to see an interesting period movie staring an MGTD from
about 1953 take a look at http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=83626
Look for the Heights of Danger film.  The plot is a family in the UK owns a
car repair shop that has fallen on hard times.  To try to raise funds to keep
it going they enter their ivory TD in a European road race to win a cash
prize.  Great shots of the TD in the Alps.  I like the shot of the tach and
speedo in reel 7 showing 72MPH and 5100 RPM,  wow!

John F. Quilter
Brisbane California
1951 MGTD

From jvk52td at aol.com  Sun Nov 22 20:34:00 2009
From: jvk52td at aol.com (jvk52td at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 22:34:00 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
Message-ID: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>

Hi "T" Listers,

I have been trying to read as much as possible about the steering rack on the
TD.    One of my rack seals was ripped.
After much work I finally was able to separate the tie rod end by pressing it
out with a puller. What is the easiest way to do that task ??

I noticed my tie rod boot was ripped on the other side so I am just going to
replace both tie rod boots and both rack seals.

My tie rod ends are different from each other with one being flat on the
bottom with no grease zerk on top /  the other kind of round on the bottom
with a grease zerk on top.

On the middle of the steering rack is a zerk which I have read about both
grease and oil for this area ????

Thanks,

John

From jquilter at peoplepc.com  Sun Nov 22 22:48:48 2009
From: jquilter at peoplepc.com (John Quilter)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 21:48:48 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
References: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <51262D8C169B4101BE037FDA7CCF4EF3@JQLT070909>

The usual tool for splitting the tie  rod end assembly from the swivel pin 
is a ball joint splitting tool.  The following website has a pic of one. 
Shop around they may be available for less. 
http://www.triple-c.com/Tools.cfm, alternatively a "pickle fork" and hammer 
can be used.  The original tie rod end assemblies for a TD came with a zerk 
fitting but more modern replacements are of the "sealed for life" type with 
no fitting.  Both types may be still available.   The TD workshop manual 
calls for Hypoid 90 weight oil for the steering rack.  Same as used in the 
gearbox and final drive.  Multiweigh hypoid oils may be available for this 
application now. It is a bit difficult to fill the rack from the central 
zerk fitting.  I find a pump squirt type oil can is easier to use, just 
insert the nozzle under the rack boot before fitting the clamp.

Note, when removing the tierod ends from the rack be sure to exactly count 
the number of turns to remove, and refit with these number of turns or it 
will be necessary to have the toe in/out reset by an alignment shop.

John F. Quilter
Brisbane, California
1951 MGTD
1960 Morris Minor
1969 Austin America


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jvk52td at aol.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 7:34 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack


> Hi "T" Listers,
>
> I have been trying to read as much as possible about the steering rack on 
> the
> TD.    One of my rack seals was ripped.
> After much work I finally was able to separate the tie rod end by pressing 
> it
> out with a puller. What is the easiest way to do that task ??
>
> I noticed my tie rod boot was ripped on the other side so I am just going 
> to
> replace both tie rod boots and both rack seals.
>
> My tie rod ends are different from each other with one being flat on the
> bottom with no grease zerk on top /  the other kind of round on the bottom
> with a grease zerk on top.
>
> On the middle of the steering rack is a zerk which I have read about both
> grease and oil for this area ????
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> _______________________________________________

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Sun Nov 22 23:06:33 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 22:06:33 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B0A2669.5010907@sinclair.net>

John,

First off, the rack boots or gaiters available today don't hold up real 
well, so when you order them, get the ones for MGBs.  they are longer 
than the ones for the TD and don't get stretched as much, thus last 
longer.  they are a bit smaller in diameter at the rack end, so are a 
bit fussy to get on, but it can be done and they last longer.

There may have been a batch of tie rod ends that cam without zerks, but 
I think that all do now.  If you ever have to do this job again, instead 
of removing the tie rod ends from the steering arms, just measure from 
the jam nut to the flats for a wrench to fit on the tie rod, record this 
measurement, then loosen the jam nut and unscrew the tie rod out of the 
end, replace the boot, then run the tie rod back into the end until you 
have the same measurement - much easier and no need to have to reset the 
toe in setting.

The shop manual says to use 90W (80W-90) gear lube in the rack.  I feel 
that this is definitely the lubricant to use there, but there are those 
who will disagree with that and contend that a good lithium based grease 
will work fine.  The main thing is that some kind of lubricant be used 
in the rack.  I have not heard of any racks disintegrating (or even 
wearing out) regardless of which is used.

Cheers,
Dave

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Mon Nov 23 04:16:44 2009
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 06:16:44 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP160E7AEF2AE5BB5F89C7E0929E0@phx.gbl>

John,
The main steering rack zerk fitting in the center of the rack is for GEAR
oil, #90 . Get an oil gun for the rack and use the same gun on the zerk
fitting on the tachometer drive gearbox.  Use of grease on these two
fittings means lubricant will not get into the critical areas.
Bob Grunau,
Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of jvk52td at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 10:34 PM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack


Hi "T" Listers,

I have been trying to read as much as possible about the steering rack on
the
TD.    One of my rack seals was ripped.
After much work I finally was able to separate the tie rod end by pressing
it
out with a puller. What is the easiest way to do that task ??

I noticed my tie rod boot was ripped on the other side so I am just going to
replace both tie rod boots and both rack seals.

My tie rod ends are different from each other with one being flat on the
bottom with no grease zerk on top /  the other kind of round on the bottom
with a grease zerk on top.

On the middle of the steering rack is a zerk which I have read about both
grease and oil for this area ????

Thanks,

John
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Mon Nov 23 06:39:24 2009
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 05:39:24 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <532C310D-C8CC-4D72-9BD5-3975BFCA74DD@earthlink.net>

Purchase 386-025 Ball Joint Puller from Moss Motors USA. Regular  
price $22.95,
on sale now for $19.95.
One tie rod end is older than the other one.

90W gear oil is to be used in the steering rack. Grease doesn't  
travel very well, and
is hard to get the grease to flow into the tie rod ball and cup  
assembly.

John Seim
Irvine, CA USA

On Nov 22, 2009, at 7:34 PM, jvk52td at aol.com wrote:

> Hi "T" Listers,
>
> I have been trying to read as much as possible about the steering  
> rack on the
> TD.    One of my rack seals was ripped.
> After much work I finally was able to separate the tie rod end by  
> pressing it
> out with a puller. What is the easiest way to do that task ??
>
> I noticed my tie rod boot was ripped on the other side so I am just  
> going to
> replace both tie rod boots and both rack seals.
>
> My tie rod ends are different from each other with one being flat  
> on the
> bottom with no grease zerk on top /  the other kind of round on the  
> bottom
> with a grease zerk on top.
>
> On the middle of the steering rack is a zerk which I have read  
> about both
> grease and oil for this area ????
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From ted at the-jacksons.ca  Mon Nov 23 08:38:15 2009
From: ted at the-jacksons.ca (Ted Jackson)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 10:38:15 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <532C310D-C8CC-4D72-9BD5-3975BFCA74DD@earthlink.net>
References: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
	<532C310D-C8CC-4D72-9BD5-3975BFCA74DD@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <123a96030911230738w6649a5ceu94a27242332c96bc@mail.gmail.com>

Hi John,

See http://omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm for
how to make a dedicated oiler for the steering rack and the tachometer
gearbox (as Bob Grunau recommends).  Either of the oilers will work better
on the rack with a long flexible nozzle. I use a 90 weight Marine Gear Oil
for both applications.  Cheaper than the synthetics that I use in tranny and
differential.

Ted

On Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 8:39 AM, John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Purchase 386-025 Ball Joint Puller from Moss Motors USA. Regular price
> $22.95,
> on sale now for $19.95.
> One tie rod end is older than the other one.
>
> 90W gear oil is to be used in the steering rack. Grease doesn't travel very
> well, and
> is hard to get the grease to flow into the tie rod ball and cup assembly.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA USA
>
>
> On Nov 22, 2009, at 7:34 PM, jvk52td at aol.com wrote:
>
>  Hi "T" Listers,
>>
>> I have been trying to read as much as possible about the steering rack on
>> the
>> TD.    One of my rack seals was ripped.
>> After much work I finally was able to separate the tie rod end by pressing
>> it
>> out with a puller. What is the easiest way to do that task ??
>>
>> I noticed my tie rod boot was ripped on the other side so I am just going
>> to
>> replace both tie rod boots and both rack seals.
>>
>> My tie rod ends are different from each other with one being flat on the
>> bottom with no grease zerk on top /  the other kind of round on the bottom
>> with a grease zerk on top.
>>
>> On the middle of the steering rack is a zerk which I have read about both
>> grease and oil for this area ????
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>>
>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
Ted Jackson

From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Mon Nov 23 12:50:49 2009
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 14:50:49 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <123a96030911230738w6649a5ceu94a27242332c96bc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
	<532C310D-C8CC-4D72-9BD5-3975BFCA74DD@earthlink.net>
	<123a96030911230738w6649a5ceu94a27242332c96bc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009c01ca6c76$42b5c570$c8215050$@net>

I've just gotten in on this thread and do I understand correctly, that the
tach gear box from the generator to the tach should also have 90W and not
grease?
Tks
Gene
Vermont

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ted Jackson
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 10:38 AM
To: jvk52td at aol.com
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack

Hi John,

See http://omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm for
how to make a dedicated oiler for the steering rack and the tachometer
gearbox (as Bob Grunau recommends).  Either of the oilers will work better
on the rack with a long flexible nozzle. I use a 90 weight Marine Gear Oil
for both applications.  Cheaper than the synthetics that I use in tranny and
differential.

Ted

On Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 8:39 AM, John Seim <kingseim at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Purchase 386-025 Ball Joint Puller from Moss Motors USA. Regular price
> $22.95,
> on sale now for $19.95.
> One tie rod end is older than the other one.
>
> 90W gear oil is to be used in the steering rack. Grease doesn't travel
very
> well, and
> is hard to get the grease to flow into the tie rod ball and cup assembly.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA USA
>
>
> On Nov 22, 2009, at 7:34 PM, jvk52td at aol.com wrote:
>
>  Hi "T" Listers,
>>
>> I have been trying to read as much as possible about the steering rack on
>> the
>> TD.    One of my rack seals was ripped.
>> After much work I finally was able to separate the tie rod end by
pressing
>> it
>> out with a puller. What is the easiest way to do that task ??
>>
>> I noticed my tie rod boot was ripped on the other side so I am just going
>> to
>> replace both tie rod boots and both rack seals.
>>
>> My tie rod ends are different from each other with one being flat on the
>> bottom with no grease zerk on top /  the other kind of round on the
bottom
>> with a grease zerk on top.
>>
>> On the middle of the steering rack is a zerk which I have read about both
>> grease and oil for this area ????
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Mg-t at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>>
>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
Ted Jackson
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Mon Nov 23 19:27:26 2009
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:27:26 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <009c01ca6c76$42b5c570$c8215050$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP7D8A5FFA960CB71FA2391929D0@phx.gbl>

Absolutely. Grease will NOT flow to the gears or the shafts for lubrication.
Use gear oil.
Bob Grunau
Canada


I've just gotten in on this thread and do I understand correctly, that the
tach gear box from the generator to the tach should also have 90W and not
grease?
Tks
Gene
Vermont

Hi John,

See http://omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm for
how to make a dedicated oiler for the steering rack and the tachometer
gearbox (as Bob Grunau recommends).  Either of the oilers will work better
on the rack with a long flexible nozzle. I use a 90 weight Marine Gear Oil
for both applications.  Cheaper than the synthetics that I use in tranny and
differential.

From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 23 20:00:44 2009
From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (MARK SHERMAN)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:00:44 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP7D8A5FFA960CB71FA2391929D0@phx.gbl>
References: <009c01ca6c76$42b5c570$c8215050$@net>
	<BLU0-SMTP7D8A5FFA960CB71FA2391929D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <c4eb3f790911231900o102c40d4w8ba9d1b998a0bffd@mail.gmail.com>

How do you keep the oil from leaking out?

Mark Sherman

On Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 9:27 PM, BOB GRUNAU <grunau.garage at sympatico.ca>wrote:

> Absolutely. Grease will NOT flow to the gears or the shafts for
> lubrication.
> Use gear oil.
> Bob Grunau
> Canada
>
>
> I've just gotten in on this thread and do I understand correctly, that the
> tach gear box from the generator to the tach should also have 90W and not
> grease?
> Tks
> Gene
> Vermont
>
> Hi John,
>
> See http://omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm for
> how to make a dedicated oiler for the steering rack and the tachometer
> gearbox (as Bob Grunau recommends).  Either of the oilers will work better
> on the rack with a long flexible nozzle. I use a 90 weight Marine Gear Oil
> for both applications.  Cheaper than the synthetics that I use in tranny
> and
> differential.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>
>


-- 
Mark Sherman
Sanolite Corporation

From jvk52td at aol.com  Mon Nov 23 21:19:42 2009
From: jvk52td at aol.com (jvk52td at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 23:19:42 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <4B0A2669.5010907@sinclair.net>
References: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
	<4B0A2669.5010907@sinclair.net>
Message-ID: <8CC3AD47B5B31C0-D28-1BE97@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>

I would like to thank everyone who responded to my question about the tie rod
ends and rack.

While I am here and such a great response with many views on lubrication I
would like to know if there is any type of current list on diferent types /
brands of lubricants for the "T" cars.  My manual for the Midget Series TD &
TF seems to be very dated.

Sounds like a (80w-90) gear lube for the rack.   Types, weights and or brands
recommended ??

Castrol 20 / 50 for the engine ??

Gearbox  ??

Rear Axle ??


Thanks,

John











The shop manual says to use 90W (80W-90) gear lube in the rack. I feel that
this is definitely the lubricant to use there, but there are those who will
disagree with that and contend that a good lithium based grease will work
fine. The main thing is that some kind of lubricant be used in the rack. I
have not heard of any racks disintegrating (or even wearing out) regardless of
which is used.

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Tue Nov 24 05:22:14 2009
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 07:22:14 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <c4eb3f790911231900o102c40d4w8ba9d1b998a0bffd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP2257A87E6A6CCB63B27C18929D0@phx.gbl>

Hi Mark,
The case is reasonable sealed and will usually hold the heavy gear oil OK.
Gear oil will ooze out of the case joint if you overfill. You could put a
rubber band or some sort of gasket around the case to slow down any leaks.
But, hey, its an MG aned supposed to leak.
Bob Grunau
  -----

  How do you keep the oil from leaking out?

  Mark Sherman


  On Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 9:27 PM, BOB GRUNAU <grunau.garage at sympatico.ca>
wrote:

    Absolutely. Grease will NOT flow to the gears or the shafts for
lubrication.
    Use gear oil.
    Bob Grunau
    Canada


    I've just gotten in on this thread and do I understand correctly, that
the
    tach gear box from the generator to the tach should also have 90W and
not
    grease?
    Tks
    Gene
    Vermont

    Hi John,

    See http://omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm
for
    how to make a dedicated oiler for the steering rack and the tachometer
    gearbox (as Bob Grunau recommends).  Either of the oilers will work
better
    on the rack with a long flexible nozzle. I use a 90 weight Marine Gear
Oil
    for both applications.  Cheaper than the synthetics that I use in tranny
and
    differential.
    _______________________________________________

    Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Mg-t at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

    Archives at http://www.team.net/archive





  --
  Mark Sherman
  Sanolite Corporation

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Tue Nov 24 12:54:17 2009
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:54:17 +1300
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP2257A87E6A6CCB63B27C18929D0@phx.gbl>
References: <c4eb3f790911231900o102c40d4w8ba9d1b998a0bffd@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP2257A87E6A6CCB63B27C18929D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44131BA2@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

British cars DON'T leak, they are just marking their territory to ward
off foreign makes.

To top up the steering box I find it easier to remove the nipple and use
a 50ml syringe and piece of tubing  - warm the oil first to make it
easier.

Douglas


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BOB GRUNAU
Sent: Wednesday, 25 November 2009 1:22 a.m.
To: MARK SHERMAN
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack

Hi Mark,
The case is reasonable sealed and will usually hold the heavy gear oil
OK.
Gear oil will ooze out of the case joint if you overfill. You could put
a
rubber band or some sort of gasket around the case to slow down any
leaks.
But, hey, its an MG aned supposed to leak.
Bob Grunau
  -----

  How do you keep the oil from leaking out?

  Mark Sherman


  On Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 9:27 PM, BOB GRUNAU
<grunau.garage at sympatico.ca>
wrote:

    Absolutely. Grease will NOT flow to the gears or the shafts for
lubrication.
    Use gear oil.
    Bob Grunau
    Canada


    I've just gotten in on this thread and do I understand correctly,
that
the
    tach gear box from the generator to the tach should also have 90W
and
not
    grease?
    Tks
    Gene
    Vermont

    Hi John,

    See
http://omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm
for
    how to make a dedicated oiler for the steering rack and the
tachometer
    gearbox (as Bob Grunau recommends).  Either of the oilers will work
better
    on the rack with a long flexible nozzle. I use a 90 weight Marine
Gear
Oil
    for both applications.  Cheaper than the synthetics that I use in
tranny
and
    differential.
    _______________________________________________

    Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Mg-t at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

    Archives at http://www.team.net/archive





  --
  Mark Sherman
  Sanolite Corporation
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From jvk52td at aol.com  Wed Nov 25 06:04:29 2009
From: jvk52td at aol.com (jvk52td at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:04:29 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Lubricants
In-Reply-To: <8CC3AD47B5B31C0-D28-1BE97@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC3A04EE7D8337-63AC-16AA9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com>
	<4B0A2669.5010907@sinclair.net>
	<8CC3AD47B5B31C0-D28-1BE97@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC3BE6F507E1A7-757C-14A69@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>

I never received replies on this question so I am trying again...



I would like to know if there is anywhere to view a current up to date list on
diferent types / brands of lubricants for the "T" cars.

My manual for the Midget Series TD & TF seems to be very dated.

Types, weights and or brands recommended ??

Engine ??

Gearbox  ??

Rear Axle ??

Anything I missed ??

Thanks,

John











The shop manual says to use 90W (80W-90) gear lube in the rack. I feel that
this is definitely the lubricant to use there, but there are those who will
disagree with that and contend that a good lithium based grease will work
fine. The main thing is that some kind of lubricant be used in the rack. I
have not heard of any racks disintegrating (or even wearing out) regardless of
which is used.

From taterry at aol.com  Wed Nov 25 08:24:17 2009
From: taterry at aol.com (taterry at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 10:24:17 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Lubricants
In-Reply-To: <8CC3BE6F507E1A7-757C-14A69@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC3BE6F507E1A7-757C-14A69@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC3BFA7C96C3B5-5258-8EA@webmail-stg-d11.sysops.aol.com>

John, start your research here:
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/fluidcht.html

-----Original Message-----
From: jvk52td at aol.com
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Nov 25, 2009 5:04 am
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Lubricants

I never received replies on this question so I am trying again...



I would like to know if there is anywhere to view a current up to date
list on
diferent types / brands of lubricants for the "T" cars.

My manual for the Midget Series TD & TF seems to be very dated.

Types, weights and or brands recommended ??

Engine ??

Gearbox  ??

Rear Axle ??

Anything I missed ??

Thanks,

John











The shop manual says to use 90W (80W-90) gear lube in the rack. I feel
that
this is definitely the lubricant to use there, but there are those who
will
disagree with that and contend that a good lithium based grease will
work
fine. The main thing is that some kind of lubricant be used in the
rack. I
have not heard of any racks disintegrating (or even wearing out)
regardless of
which is used.
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 25 19:19:52 2009
From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (MARK SHERMAN)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:19:52 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t]  TD Steering Rack
Message-ID: <c4eb3f790911251819w986c77br606bd08bad86fde4@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob:

I once tried filling the rack with gear oil and it dripped out the zerk
fitting for a week.

(Sorry, it was just marking territory.  But that territory had been
previously claimed by my wife!)

Perhaps I overfilled it?

Or need a new zerk fitting?

Happy Thanksgiving.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BOB GRUNAU
Sent: Wednesday, 25 November 2009 1:22 a.m.
To: MARK SHERMAN
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack

Hi Mark,
The case is reasonable sealed and will usually hold the heavy gear oil
OK.
Gear oil will ooze out of the case joint if you overfill. You could put a
rubber band or some sort of gasket around the case to slow down any
leaks.
But, hey, its an MG aned supposed to leak.
Bob Grunau
 -----

 How do you keep the oil from leaking out?

 Mark Sherman

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Wed Nov 25 20:22:48 2009
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 16:22:48 +1300
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <c4eb3f790911251819w986c77br606bd08bad86fde4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c4eb3f790911251819w986c77br606bd08bad86fde4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44131C19@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

The secret is a length of black carpet under the car.


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of MARK SHERMAN
Sent: Thursday, 26 November 2009 3:20 p.m.
To: mg-t at autox.team.net; Bob Grunau
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack

Hi Bob:

I once tried filling the rack with gear oil and it dripped out the zerk
fitting for a week.

(Sorry, it was just marking territory.  But that territory had been
previously claimed by my wife!)

Perhaps I overfilled it?

Or need a new zerk fitting?

Happy Thanksgiving.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BOB GRUNAU
Sent: Wednesday, 25 November 2009 1:22 a.m.
To: MARK SHERMAN
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack

Hi Mark,
The case is reasonable sealed and will usually hold the heavy gear oil
OK.
Gear oil will ooze out of the case joint if you overfill. You could put
a
rubber band or some sort of gasket around the case to slow down any
leaks.
But, hey, its an MG aned supposed to leak.
Bob Grunau
 -----

 How do you keep the oil from leaking out?

 Mark Sherman
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Wed Nov 25 20:48:34 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 19:48:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <c4eb3f790911251819w986c77br606bd08bad86fde4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c4eb3f790911251819w986c77br606bd08bad86fde4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1423.75.92.178.86.1259207314.squirrel@webmail.donobi.net>

Mark,

The make caps for zerk fittings.  The one on our TD leaked too and I just
put a cap on it - hasn't leaked since.

Cheers,
Dave

> Hi Bob:
>
> I once tried filling the rack with gear oil and it dripped out the zerk
> fitting for a week.
>
> (Sorry, it was just marking territory.  But that territory had been
> previously claimed by my wife!)
>
> Perhaps I overfilled it?
>
> Or need a new zerk fitting?
>
> Happy Thanksgiving.
>
> Mark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of BOB GRUNAU
> Sent: Wednesday, 25 November 2009 1:22 a.m.
> To: MARK SHERMAN
> Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
>
> Hi Mark,
> The case is reasonable sealed and will usually hold the heavy gear oil
> OK.
> Gear oil will ooze out of the case joint if you overfill. You could put a
> rubber band or some sort of gasket around the case to slow down any
> leaks.
> But, hey, its an MG aned supposed to leak.
> Bob Grunau
>  -----
>
>  How do you keep the oil from leaking out?
>
>  Mark Sherman
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Wed Nov 25 20:57:10 2009
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 19:57:10 -0800
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44131C19@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
References: <c4eb3f790911251819w986c77br606bd08bad86fde4@mail.gmail.com>
	<D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44131C19@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <4B0DFC96.7080509@sinclair.net>

Douglas,

> The secret is a length of black carpet under the car.
Just don't ever step on it :-P

Cheers,
Dave

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Thu Nov 26 03:11:37 2009
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 05:11:37 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <1423.75.92.178.86.1259207314.squirrel@webmail.donobi.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP63D30D4C212DE37CA8E3EB929B0@phx.gbl>

Yep, a cap or new grease fitting will solve the problem. Either way, use
gear oil in the steering rack and tacho gearbox.
Bob Grunau


Mark,

The make caps for zerk fittings.  The one on our TD leaked too and I just
put a cap on it - hasn't leaked since.

Cheers,
Dave

> Hi Bob:
>
> I once tried filling the rack with gear oil and it dripped out the zerk
> fitting for a week.
>
> (Sorry, it was just marking territory.  But that territory had been
> previously claimed by my wife!)
>
> Perhaps I overfilled it?
>
> Or need a new zerk fitting?
>
> Happy Thanksgiving.
>
> Mark
> Hi Mark,
> The case is reasonable sealed and will usually hold the heavy gear oil
> OK.
> Gear oil will ooze out of the case joint if you overfill. You could put a
> rubber band or some sort of gasket around the case to slow down any
> leaks.
> But, hey, its an MG aned supposed to leak.
> Bob Grunau
>  -----
>
>  How do you keep the oil from leaking out?
>
>  Mark Sherman
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From LarryShoer at comcast.net  Thu Nov 26 08:57:04 2009
From: LarryShoer at comcast.net (Larry Shoer)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 10:57:04 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
In-Reply-To: <223FAAAC7D7A4FBAB645E938020E29CD@BacklotTechnologies.local>
References: <009c01ca6c76$42b5c570$c8215050$@net>
	<223FAAAC7D7A4FBAB645E938020E29CD@BacklotTechnologies.local>
Message-ID: <37495C040F909C4693AE1093D0436B7C482C67@backlot01.BacklotTechnologies.local>

Bob,

I believe you are recommending oil, not grease, be used in the tach
reduction gearbox.  It is hard for me to believe oil would remain in the
gearbox, given its original design, but rather quickly weep out through
the flat seating surfaces of the two halves of the gearbox case.

I rebuilt my tach reduction gearbox a number of years ago using a
procedure described by Blake Urban (and written up in TSO).  After
sealing the mating surfaces of the case, grease is carefully pumped in
through the grease fitting to essentially fill the compartment.  After
that, little attention is required for years.

When my TD came to me the steering rack was filled with grease.  The
rubber boots needed replacement.  I did not see a need to remove the
grease, but loaded the rack with oil.  Grease and oil will mix and
sufficient oil was injected to reach the boots on either end.  (The
grease weeped from the rack for a couple of weeks.)

Larry

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 26 21:50:46 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 22:50:46 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Steering Rack
References: <c4eb3f790911251819w986c77br606bd08bad86fde4@mail.gmail.com>
	<1423.75.92.178.86.1259207314.squirrel@webmail.donobi.net>
Message-ID: <85CE4410247F44688238417D902229D0@ranteer.local>

the zerk fitting popped off my gear reduction for the tach.  is there a 
recommended method for resolving this?  new zerk or ???

thanks

From sales at justbrits.com  Fri Nov 27 16:30:40 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:30:40 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] [Fwd: [Spridgets] The wrong side of the road]
Message-ID: <4B106120.5010404@justbrits.com>

 From the Spridgets List !!!

'Nufff said <G><G><G>!!!!!!

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Spridgets] The wrong side of the road
Date: 	Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:41:06 +0000
From: 	<robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
To: 	Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net>
References: 	<f91b5ee792ae9a98b9f31b6fb828dbde at autos.sympatico.ca>


Left - right - wrong?

http://autos.sympatico.ca/photos-videos/1962/fun-facts-about-driving-on-the-r
ight-errrr-wrong-side-of-the-road

So there you have it!!!
_______________________________________________

Also, be SURE to check out the "Prancing Horse' pics below the last pic <VBG> !!

Ed