From hstrachman at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  1 13:30:43 2008
From: hstrachman at yahoo.com (herb strachman)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 12:30:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
Message-ID: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,
 
 When I turn on my ignition switch I have gasoline flowing from the
carburetors over flow pipes. This happens without starting the car.  Any
suggestions.
 
Thanks,
 
Herb

From blair at ifd.mv.com  Mon Sep  1 14:41:44 2008
From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 16:41:44 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <03a701c90c73$26274550$82637dc7@Terrafirma>

Herb,
Something is preventing the main jet from closing. Either is piece of dirt, 
or the needle is corroded. Many people replace them with Grose jets, they 
use a glass ball instead of a brass cone.

Blair
53 TD
78 B





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "herb strachman" <hstrachman at yahoo.com>
To: "MG" <Mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 3:30 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs


> Hi,
>
> When I turn on my ignition switch I have gasoline flowing from the
> carburetors over flow pipes. This happens without starting the car.  Any
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Herb

From peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  1 19:49:43 2008
From: peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net (peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 21:49:43 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <87A7CF2C98C54924981C25D672E84AFC@OURS>

Hi Herb,

   You don't mention what car you're dealing with, but Blair is correct, 
it's probably dirt or corrosion in the needle and seat assembly. But it 
could be the float isn't floating. If you're sure the fuel is coming from 
the overflow pipe(s), the next two suggestions can be skipped. Perhaps the 
banjo bolt is not tight on the feed line. I've also had the cover bolt of 
the float bowl loosen up and then the gasket doesn't seal.
    Fuel overflow happens to my '53 TD often when it sits a while. When I 
turn the key off and on a few times, this often stops the flow, as the pump 
is turned off and on at the same time. Otherwise I raise the hood (bonnet), 
and with the key on, tap the offending float bowl with the handle of a 
screwdriver and the flow stops almost immediately. (I have an airy barn that 
the smell of gas doesn't bother me if it gets around. If you're in a garage 
attached to the house, you may think differently.) When the car starts, the 
vibration usually stops the flow also.
    As far as Grose Jets, here we go again. This has been discussed here 
several times with plenty of votes pro and con. Personally, I find the stock 
needle and seat work just fine, and grose jets are just as prone to the 
overflow problem, or maybe more so.

Best, Pete Thiel
         1953 MG TD

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "herb strachman" <hstrachman at yahoo.com>
To: "MG" <Mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 3:30 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs


> Hi,
>
> When I turn on my ignition switch I have gasoline flowing from the
> carburetors over flow pipes. This happens without starting the car.  Any
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Herb
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive 

From rthadani at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  1 21:05:52 2008
From: rthadani at hotmail.com (Raj Thadani)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 23:05:52 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
In-Reply-To: <87A7CF2C98C54924981C25D672E84AFC@OURS>
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<87A7CF2C98C54924981C25D672E84AFC@OURS>
Message-ID: <BAY134-W2147E6D1E63A9FA27C3652C25F0@phx.gbl>

Herb,

I had the same problem once in my TD and it turned out that the float had a
leak in it and it had fuel in it making it heavy and preventing the float from
floating.  I detected this by taking the float out and shaking it.  I heard a
"sloshing" sound.  The problem was solved once I replaced the float.

Raj
1952 MG TD MK II



> From: peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net> To: hstrachman at yahoo.com;
mg-t at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 21:49:43 -0400> Subject: Re: [Mg-t]
leaking carbs> > Hi Herb,> > You don't mention what car you're dealing with,
but Blair is correct, > it's probably dirt or corrosion in the needle and seat
assembly. But it > could be the float isn't floating. If you're sure the fuel
is coming from > the overflow pipe(s), the next two suggestions can be
skipped. Perhaps the > banjo bolt is not tight on the feed line. I've also had
the cover bolt of > the float bowl loosen up and then the gasket doesn't
seal.> Fuel overflow happens to my '53 TD often when it sits a while. When I >
turn the key off and on a few times, this often stops the flow, as the pump >
is turned off and on at the same time. Otherwise I raise the hood (bonnet), >
and with the key on, tap the offending float bowl with the handle of a >
screwdriver and the flow stops almost immediately. (I have an airy barn that >
the smell of gas doesn't bother me if it gets around. If you're in a garage >
attached to the house, you may think differently.) When the car starts, the >
vibration usually stops the flow also.> As far as Grose Jets, here we go
again. This has been discussed here > several times with plenty of votes pro
and con. Personally, I find the stock > needle and seat work just fine, and
grose jets are just as prone to the > overflow problem, or maybe more so.> >
Best, Pete Thiel> 1953 MG TD> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "herb
strachman" <hstrachman at yahoo.com>> To: "MG" <Mg-t at autox.team.net>> Sent:
Monday, September 01, 2008 3:30 PM> Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs> > > > Hi,>
>> > When I turn on my ignition switch I have gasoline flowing from the> >
carburetors over flow pipes. This happens without starting the car. Any> >
suggestions.> >> > Thanks,> >> > Herb> >
_______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > Mg-t at autox.team.net> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> >> > Archives at
http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg-t at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> > Archives at
http://www.team.net/archive

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Mon Sep  1 21:07:32 2008
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 20:07:32 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
In-Reply-To: <87A7CF2C98C54924981C25D672E84AFC@OURS>
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<87A7CF2C98C54924981C25D672E84AFC@OURS>
Message-ID: <48BCADF4.6090800@sinclair.net>

Pete,

I replied to Herb earlier, but didn't hit 'reply to all'.  You hit on 
several items that I didn't address but what I did address definitely 
covers the situation your are experiencing.  Here is what I sent to Herb:

" Most probably, you have a situation where the fuel has evaporated out 
of the float bowl to the point that the float lever has dropped far 
enough to trap the needle in the needle valve, thus jamming everything 
together so that the float can't shut off fuel flow.  Often just tapping 
on the side of the float bowl will jar things loose and get you going.  
For a permanent fix (and a better explanation of the situation) see the 
article, Float Lever Drop 
<http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Fuel_and_Carburetors/Float_Lever_Drop.pdf> 
in the Other Tech articles on my web site at: 
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/"

On the subject of Gross Jets, the ones being sold today are junk, but 
the original Gross Jets that were available some 20 years ago were very 
reliable (and, by the way, eliminate the problem that you are dealing with).

Cheers,
Dave

From clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com  Tue Sep  2 02:07:23 2008
From: clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com (Clive Sherriff)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:07:23 +0100
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CF19BACCC3B44F9685D2754F4385AD6B@cypress>

Three possibilities,

1  the needle valve in the lid has stuck open,

2  the float has a filled with fuel and sunk (usually due to a failure of 
the solder holding the two halves together),

3  corrosion of the float chamber centre bolt has jammed the float from 
rising, (caused by water in the fuel usually).

Clive
Oxford UK

=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "herb strachman" <hstrachman at yahoo.com>
To: "MG" <Mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 8:30 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs


> Hi,
>
> When I turn on my ignition switch I have gasoline flowing from the
> carburetors over flow pipes. This happens without starting the car.  Any
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Herb
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive 

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Tue Sep  2 09:06:01 2008
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:06:01 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
In-Reply-To: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <104797c7b9bcd8d908e5d2bbf316cfc5@earthlink.net>

Just about all of the remedies have been mentioned.
The float lever is probably stuck. Later covers had a stop for the 
lever, and there
was a tang on the lever, to bend. The tang would contact the stop, 
keeping the
lever from dropping too low, and having the needle angle prevent the 
lever from
returning up. A simple rap to the float bowl, or float bowl nut, should 
free the lever.

It could also be a float with a hole in it that has dropped, or dirt 
between the needle
and seat, but a stuck lever is first to look at.

Had the car sat for a few months, and you were not getting fuel to one 
carb, then the
needle had stuck to the seat. Happens with Grose jets as well. Some 
carb cleaner spray
onto the needle, and the seat area, will solve this problem.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 1, 2008, at 12:30 PM, herb strachman wrote:

> Hi,
>
>  When I turn on my ignition switch I have gasoline flowing from the
> carburetors over flow pipes. This happens without starting the car.  
> Any
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Herb

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Sep  2 09:18:17 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 11:18:17 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
In-Reply-To: <48BCADF4.6090800@sinclair.net>
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<87A7CF2C98C54924981C25D672E84AFC@OURS>
	<48BCADF4.6090800@sinclair.net>
Message-ID: <48BD5939.5020401@comcast.net>

I just had this happen to me last week on my rear carb.  Usually I just 
depress the plunger in the cap of the float bowl and the offending dirt 
or other problem corrects itself.  It is easy to tell if you have a 
problem if the fuel pump doesn't stop clicking.  It should fill up the 
float bowls and stop.  This is assuming that you have an original type 
SU pump.
Charlie

Dave and Liz DuBois wrote:
> Pete,
>
> I replied to Herb earlier, but didn't hit 'reply to all'.  You hit on 
> several items that I didn't address but what I did address definitely 
> covers the situation your are experiencing.  Here is what I sent to Herb:
>
> " Most probably, you have a situation where the fuel has evaporated out 
> of the float bowl to the point that the float lever has dropped far 
> enough to trap the needle in the needle valve, thus jamming everything 
> together so that the float can't shut off fuel flow.  Often just tapping 
> on the side of the float bowl will jar things loose and get you going.  
> For a permanent fix (and a better explanation of the situation) see the 
> article, Float Lever Drop 
> <http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Fuel_and_Carburetors/Float_Lever_Drop.pdf> 
> in the Other Tech articles on my web site at: 
> http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/"
>
> On the subject of Gross Jets, the ones being sold today are junk, but 
> the original Gross Jets that were available some 20 years ago were very 
> reliable (and, by the way, eliminate the problem that you are dealing with).
>
> Cheers,
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Tue Sep  2 11:09:30 2008
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:09:30 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] leaking carbs
In-Reply-To: <104797c7b9bcd8d908e5d2bbf316cfc5@earthlink.net>
References: <601063.56330.qm@web32601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<104797c7b9bcd8d908e5d2bbf316cfc5@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <062b01c90d1e$aa8bd300$ffa37900$@net>

Indeed, all the remedies have been talked about, but how about this one:
I use Store-it, Start-It in the tank. Not only does it help clean out the
junk, but keeps the octane rating right up there when the car is stored
unlike Sta-Bil.
It is said to be a help with ethanol that is in so much of the fuels today.
Cheers
Gene



---Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John Seim
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 11:06 AM
To: hstrachman at yahoo.com
Cc: MG
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] leaking carbs

Just about all of the remedies have been mentioned.
The float lever is probably stuck. Later covers had a stop for the 
lever, and there
was a tang on the lever, to bend. The tang would contact the stop, 
keeping the
lever from dropping too low, and having the needle angle prevent the 
lever from
returning up. A simple rap to the float bowl, or float bowl nut, should 
free the lever.

It could also be a float with a hole in it that has dropped, or dirt 
between the needle
and seat, but a stuck lever is first to look at.

Had the car sat for a few months, and you were not getting fuel to one 
carb, then the
needle had stuck to the seat. Happens with Grose jets as well. Some 
carb cleaner spray
onto the needle, and the seat area, will solve this problem.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 1, 2008, at 12:30 PM, herb strachman wrote:

> Hi,
>
>  When I turn on my ignition switch I have gasoline flowing from the
> carburetors over flow pipes. This happens without starting the car.  
> Any
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Herb
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  3 11:39:22 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 10:39:22 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Mg-t] LAST CALL - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7,
 2008
Message-ID: <31224421.1220463563112.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

WEBSITE:
         www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008
The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th

Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at
Sierra
Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again
gather
in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have a show car?
Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress
are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is essentially the old Palo
Alto
British Meet in a new location. We are also expecting another great display of
automotive
oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for
free.

SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th

Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be
handled
by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their
doors
on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast Herb Gibson's Jazz Orchestra
will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There is no
preregistration.
There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all entrants will receive a
commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate.

SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th

The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse
(the
same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea.
Itbs
no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them.
We
will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM.  A detailed map will be
provided.
The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking
tyres
and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon.

Call for information:  310-392-6605
e-mail:  <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>

DIRECTIONS:

The Brisbane Marina is located just east of the Bayshore Freeway
(101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just
take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the
Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site.

LODGING ALTERNATIVES:

BEST DEAL! Right at the Brisbane  Marina. The Radisson, very upscale, business
type
hotel with gourmet restaurant. We have special British Car Meet rate of $109
per
night, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway,
Brisbane,
phone 415-467-4400. Ask for the British Car  eet rates.

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Sep  4 08:14:22 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2008 10:14:22 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Original paint
Message-ID: <48BFED3E.60009@comcast.net>

I have recently acquired a late 1953 TD that has what I believe to be 
the original paint on it.  In polishing it over the last few weeks, the 
paint on the fenders seems to responding somewhat differently from that 
on the tub.
I seem to recall that some or maybe all TDs had a different type of 
paint in each of these areas.  Does anyone know if this is true?
And if it is, what type of paint was original in each area?
Thanks.
Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From TATERRY at aol.com  Thu Sep  4 09:29:07 2008
From: TATERRY at aol.com (TATERRY at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:29:07 EDT
Subject: [Mg-t] Original paint
Message-ID: <bfb.44b1e99d.35f158c3@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/4/2008 7:15:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
mgcharlie at comcast.net writes:


>  what type of paint was original in each area?
> 

Charlie, I seem to remember reading somewhere that the factory used cellulose 
on the wings as it was easy to then make repairs and probably enamel on the 
body.....?
Terry in Oakland<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. 
Find your travel deal here.<BR>      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)</HTML>

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Sep  4 09:34:22 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:34:22 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Original paint
Message-ID: <20080904.113455.880.48.MGBOB@juno.com>

Charlie,
   How nice to find a car with original paint.
   Yes, some of the cars had different paints.  On some, the the wings
were painted with enamel because it was more chip-resistant, and the
bonnet, body sides, doors, etc were done in "cellulose enamel",  which
Americans call lacquer.   Chip Olds wrote about this somewhere in the
T-Series Handbook.  I do not know which colors were done in two paints;
not all were. 
   My dad polished right through the cellulose enamel with his favorite
Dupont #7, which said on the can "safe for enamels".  He learned, sadly,
that "enamel" meant different things on different shores of the Atlantic.
Bob
 
On Thu, 04 Sep 2008 10:14:22 -0400 Charlie Baldwin
<mgcharlie at comcast.net> writes:
> I have recently acquired a late 1953 TD that has what I believe to be 
> 
> the original paint on it.  In polishing it over the last few weeks, 
> the 
> paint on the fenders seems to responding somewhat differently from 
> that 
> on the tub.
> I seem to recall that some or maybe all TDs had a different type of 
> 
> paint in each of these areas.  Does anyone know if this is true?
> And if it is, what type of paint was original in each area?
> Thanks.
> Charlie Baldwin
> 
____________________________________________________________
Click to consolidate debt and lower month expenses.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2bkJwdYw8hS9X5DbVdNieLqID72Gp3aQcTOwG4b79GANwA/

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  4 10:09:30 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 11:09:30 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Original paint
In-Reply-To: <bfb.44b1e99d.35f158c3@aol.com>
References: <bfb.44b1e99d.35f158c3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3A99AB5C-8AE4-428E-A517-3212EFC27B24@sbcglobal.net>

According to Clausinger pg 100,  TFs were when they began to use  
acrylic enamel on the wings for durability.

Get a very fine polish so you don't rub through it.

If it is a celluloid instead of acrylic paint, it will rub through  
without much effort unless it was sprayed on thick


On Sep 4, 2008, at 10:29 AM, TATERRY at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/4/2008 7:15:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> mgcharlie at comcast.net writes:
>
>
>>  what type of paint was original in each area?
>>
>
> Charlie, I seem to remember reading somewhere that the factory used  
> cellulose
> on the wings as it was easy to then make repairs and probably  
> enamel on the
> body.....?
> Terry in Oakland<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>It's only a deal if  
> it's where you want to go.
> Find your travel deal here.<BR>
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) 
> </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From curt at roadstershop.net  Fri Sep  5 22:06:11 2008
From: curt at roadstershop.net (Curt Curtiss)
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 23:06:11 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF Flywheel and Pressure Plate Torque??? And Locking Wire
Message-ID: <8F0F261A04C24014BD9430F369D6BD53@gatewaywestwing>

I have a 1955 MGTF 1500 that I am doing a Moss 5 speed conversion on so
while it was down I removed the flywheel to get it resurfaced and a new ring
gear installed. I just went to my workshop manual and it does not have
torque specs for the Flywheel and Pressure Plate installation. Does anyone
know the torque specs for both?

 

Also the workshop manual talks about a locking wire on the flywheel bolts.
When I removed my flywheel there are holes in the bolt heads for a locking
wire but none was installed when I removed them. I also looked it up in the
Moss catalog and they do not show a locking wire so here is my question, is
the locking wire really needed and if so what do I use as the wire?

 

Thanks,

Curt Curtiss 

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Sat Sep  6 00:46:28 2008
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 23:46:28 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF Flywheel and Pressure Plate Torque??? And Locking
 Wire
In-Reply-To: <8F0F261A04C24014BD9430F369D6BD53@gatewaywestwing>
References: <8F0F261A04C24014BD9430F369D6BD53@gatewaywestwing>
Message-ID: <48C22744.4070500@sinclair.net>

Curt,

See the chart, Torque Values for TD and TF Fasteners 
<http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Fasteners_Wrenches/TD/Torque_Values_for_TD_and_TF_Fasteners.pdf> 
in the Other Tech Articles on my web site at: 
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ for the torque requirement for 
the pressure plate to flywheel.  I will send you information of how to 
install safety wire.   Safety wire is available from MSC at: 
http://www.mscdirect.com/ or McMaster-Carr at: http://www.mcmaster.com/.

Cheers,
Dave

From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Sat Sep  6 05:38:40 2008
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 07:38:40 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF Flywheel and Pressure Plate Torque??? And Locking
 Wire
In-Reply-To: <8F0F261A04C24014BD9430F369D6BD53@gatewaywestwing>
References: <8F0F261A04C24014BD9430F369D6BD53@gatewaywestwing>
Message-ID: <014801c91015$1d5001b0$57f00510$@net>

I see you already have Dave's torque list, so let me suggest ATS - Aircraft
Tool Supply Company, at: www.aircraft-tool.com for your safety wire. Many
aircraft attaching parts are secured by various diameter safety wires and
they have it all. They also have the safety wire twist tool.
Cheers
Gene
Vermont

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Curt Curtiss
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 12:06 AM
To: Mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF Flywheel and Pressure Plate Torque??? And Locking Wire

I have a 1955 MGTF 1500 that I am doing a Moss 5 speed conversion on so
while it was down I removed the flywheel to get it resurfaced and a new ring
gear installed. I just went to my workshop manual and it does not have
torque specs for the Flywheel and Pressure Plate installation. Does anyone
know the torque specs for both?

 

Also the workshop manual talks about a locking wire on the flywheel bolts.
When I removed my flywheel there are holes in the bolt heads for a locking
wire but none was installed when I removed them. I also looked it up in the
Moss catalog and they do not show a locking wire so here is my question, is
the locking wire really needed and if so what do I use as the wire?

 

Thanks,

Curt Curtiss 
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From bobmgtd at comcast.net  Sun Sep  7 10:28:55 2008
From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 12:28:55 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Original paint
References: <20080904.113455.880.48.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <000d01c91106$d2f16080$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

On a related note, I discovered that you can polish right through chrome 
also. BE CAREFUL. If you have a stubborn smashed bug on your radiator shell, 
place a wet towel over it until it softens up. Do not try to polish it off.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Original paint


> Charlie,
>   How nice to find a car with original paint.
>   Yes, some of the cars had different paints.  On some, the the wings
> were painted with enamel because it was more chip-resistant, and the
> bonnet, body sides, doors, etc were done in "cellulose enamel",  which
> Americans call lacquer.   Chip Olds wrote about this somewhere in the
> T-Series Handbook.  I do not know which colors were done in two paints;
> not all were.
>   My dad polished right through the cellulose enamel with his favorite
> Dupont #7, which said on the can "safe for enamels".  He learned, sadly,
> that "enamel" meant different things on different shores of the Atlantic.
> Bob
>
> On Thu, 04 Sep 2008 10:14:22 -0400 Charlie Baldwin
> <mgcharlie at comcast.net> writes:
>> I have recently acquired a late 1953 TD that has what I believe to be
>>
>> the original paint on it.  In polishing it over the last few weeks,
>> the
>> paint on the fenders seems to responding somewhat differently from
>> that
>> on the tub.
>> I seem to recall that some or maybe all TDs had a different type of
>>
>> paint in each of these areas.  Does anyone know if this is true?
>> And if it is, what type of paint was original in each area?
>> Thanks.
>> Charlie Baldwin
>>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click to consolidate debt and lower month expenses.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2bkJwdYw8hS9X5DbVdNieLqID72Gp3aQcTOwG4b79GANwA/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From bobmgtd at comcast.net  Sun Sep  7 10:30:57 2008
From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 12:30:57 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Original paint
Message-ID: <001601c91107$1b722b00$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

On a related note, I discovered that you can polish right through chrome
also. BE CAREFUL. If you have a stubborn smashed bug on your radiator shell,
place a wet towel over it until it softens up. Do not try to polish it off.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Original paint


> Charlie,
>   How nice to find a car with original paint.
>   Yes, some of the cars had different paints.  On some, the the wings
> were painted with enamel because it was more chip-resistant, and the
> bonnet, body sides, doors, etc were done in "cellulose enamel",  which
> Americans call lacquer.   Chip Olds wrote about this somewhere in the
> T-Series Handbook.  I do not know which colors were done in two paints;
> not all were.
>   My dad polished right through the cellulose enamel with his favorite
> Dupont #7, which said on the can "safe for enamels".  He learned, sadly,
> that "enamel" meant different things on different shores of the Atlantic.
> Bob
>
> On Thu, 04 Sep 2008 10:14:22 -0400 Charlie Baldwin
> <mgcharlie at comcast.net> writes:
>> I have recently acquired a late 1953 TD that has what I believe to be
>>
>> the original paint on it.  In polishing it over the last few weeks,
>> the
>> paint on the fenders seems to responding somewhat differently from
>> that
>> on the tub.
>> I seem to recall that some or maybe all TDs had a different type of
>>
>> paint in each of these areas.  Does anyone know if this is true?
>> And if it is, what type of paint was original in each area?
>> Thanks.
>> Charlie Baldwin

From bobmgtd at comcast.net  Wed Sep 10 17:21:04 2008
From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 19:21:04 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] test
Message-ID: <008301c9139b$e6075a70$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

test only

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Sep 15 12:50:05 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:50:05 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Ian Pearl - Ireland
Message-ID: <48CEAE5D.9050004@comcast.net>

Perhaps a lister in the UK can help.  I'm trying to contact Ian Pearl 
from Ireland who wrote an excellent article on restoring a Universal 
Laminations hardtop for his MGA.  It was linked to in Barney Gaylord's 
wonderful mgaguru.com website, but the link no longer works.  It was 
posted on a picture sharing site.
In lieu of contacting Ian, a copy of his article will also suffice.
Thanks in advance.
Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Sep 15 19:49:03 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 19:49:03 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] [Healeys] Ian Pearl - Ireland
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0809151510m759b50b7w7663e71b2b66114e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEBEDKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<If you have the link, you can usually go to www.archive.org and
recover the old web page there.>>

And/or wayback.com (I think<G>)!!

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Sep 19 08:41:07 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:41:07 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] 3M buys Meguiars
Message-ID: <48D3BA03.3010104@comcast.net>

Here's a link to an article by fellow lister John Gunnell about this 
development:
http://www.sportscarmarket.com/articles/archives/1643

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 21 19:23:20 2008
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:23:20 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Axle story
Message-ID: <BAY102-W1899DA31CE5A643785CB5CB74B0@phx.gbl>

I just wanted to thank everyone who responded to my email a few weeks ago
regarding what I thought was a broken axle in my '54 TF 1250:  >I had just
completed a left turn onto a hill.  At the bottom of the hill just as I
started to accelerate, it felt like the clutch slipped, then >nothing.  No
power at all.   Looking under the car, I could see that, when in gear, the
driveshaft turns - so power goes into the >differential, but no power comes
out.>What do you think?  I'm actually hoping it's an axle and not something
more expensive and involved.>Anyone know what's involved in swapping a broken
axle out? It was indeed a broken axle - the left rear axle.  Several listers
answered with help and advice - and warned me away from aftermarket imported
half-shafts of questionable quality.  Sara Dahl hooked me up with Mick Conde,
who sells half-shafts that he's had machined, meeting or exceeding original
specifications.  Mick also had two NOS half-shafts, and on his advice I bought
those (for a nice price, by the way - less than the 'new' lower-quality axles
Moss and Abingdon sell).  I would definitely recommend Mick Conde, not only
for his reasonably priced parts, but for his willingness to share his
considerable knowledge. I was unable to get the axle nut off, however, even
with the help of several 'secret' tricks people were kind enough to share with
me.  I even broke a breaker bar on it.  Finally, I got tired of goofing around
with it myself and took it to a local mechanic that I trust with my classics.
His air impact wrench was apparently much better than mine (which is going to
be replaced post haste) and he was able to get the nut off.  He withdrew the
axle to find that it was broken near the differential.  But it wasn't really a
problem, since I had decided to replace both axles anyway, he removed the
other half-shaft and drove out the broken piece with a rod.  Looking at the
broken axle (which my father had replaced many years ago), it appeared to have
been a bad casting.  I was surprised, it had a 'made in W. Germany' sticker on
it.  The mechanic flushed everything out, reassembled the rear end with the
NOS half-shafts, new bearings, and new oil seals.   I didn't expect it, but
the car rides better than ever.  Handles better.  Feels tighter.  Brakes
better.  I don't know why, exactly, but I'm not complaining.The list is an
incredibly helpful tool. Thanks to all.

Happy motoring, -Mike Eldred,Wilmington, VT'54 MG TF'51 Willys M38 Jeep'86 VW
Scirocco
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Sep 24 07:48:03 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 09:48:03 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
Message-ID: <48DA4513.3010706@comcast.net>

We have a very original late production TD for sale.  It is actually 
titled as a 1954.  It still has it's original paint and interior panels 
and around 65,000 miles on the odometer.  We're working on obtaining a 
set of original green seats for it.  It seems that they are out in limbo 
somewhere.  The carpet that is left (only over the drive shaft tunnel) 
is the original.
It is a project (partially disassembled) and hasn't been 
inspected/driven since 1966. 
We're looking for a buyer who can appreciate the originality of this car 
and not one who will just tear it apart and restore it to be just like 
all of the other shiny restored cars out there.
The tires are also quite old, but not the originals.  ( Don't laugh, we 
also have a 1960 Austin-Healey for sale with 13,800 original miles on it 
with the original 5 tires with only 10K on them, 0 miles on the spare)
Here is a link to pictures on Snapfish:
http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=244116092/a=144448251_144448251/t_=144448251
I'm not a car dealer.  I just happened on these interesting cars and 
already have too many others to make them keepers.

Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Sep 24 11:36:50 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 13:36:50 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
Message-ID: <48DA7AB2.3050802@comcast.net>

Roy,
I sent this to myself and had no problem viewing the photos, but 
obviously I belong to Snapfish.
Does anyone else have the same problem?  I don't really think it is a 
rip-off, though, since it costs nothing to join.
Thanks for anyone's help and thanks to you Roy for bringing it up.
Charlie

roy-rose wrote:
> Charlie-
> You mean I have to join Snapfish to see your photos.  
> What a rip off!!
> Roy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces+roy-rose=pacbell.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mg-t-bounces+roy-rose=pacbell.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Charlie Baldwin
> Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 6:48 AM
> To: T series list
> Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
>
> We have a very original late production TD for sale.  It is actually 
> titled as a 1954.  It still has it's original paint and interior panels 
> and around 65,000 miles on the odometer.  We're working on obtaining a 
> set of original green seats for it.  It seems that they are out in limbo 
> somewhere.  The carpet that is left (only over the drive shaft tunnel) 
> is the original.
> It is a project (partially disassembled) and hasn't been 
> inspected/driven since 1966. 
> We're looking for a buyer who can appreciate the originality of this car 
> and not one who will just tear it apart and restore it to be just like 
> all of the other shiny restored cars out there.
> The tires are also quite old, but not the originals.  ( Don't laugh, we 
> also have a 1960 Austin-Healey for sale with 13,800 original miles on it 
> with the original 5 tires with only 10K on them, 0 miles on the spare)
> Here is a link to pictures on Snapfish:
> http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=244116092/a=144448251_144448
> 251/t_=144448251
> I'm not a car dealer.  I just happened on these interesting cars and 
> already have too many others to make them keepers.
>
> Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Wed Sep 24 13:08:31 2008
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 15:08:31 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
In-Reply-To: <48DA7AB2.3050802@comcast.net>
References: <48DA7AB2.3050802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <080d01c91e78$efa4bef0$ceee3cd0$@net>

Charlie, I think the problem may be that in order to view you pix you have
to register, hence they have you email address for advertising ...
Many are reluctant to do that.
gene

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Charlie Baldwin
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 1:37 PM
To: roy-rose; T series list
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale

Roy,
I sent this to myself and had no problem viewing the photos, but 
obviously I belong to Snapfish.
Does anyone else have the same problem?  I don't really think it is a 
rip-off, though, since it costs nothing to join.
Thanks for anyone's help and thanks to you Roy for bringing it up.
Charlie

roy-rose wrote:
> Charlie-
> You mean I have to join Snapfish to see your photos.  
> What a rip off!!
> Roy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces+roy-rose=pacbell.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:mg-t-bounces+roy-rose=pacbell.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Charlie Baldwin
> Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 6:48 AM
> To: T series list
> Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
>
> We have a very original late production TD for sale.  It is actually 
> titled as a 1954.  It still has it's original paint and interior panels 
> and around 65,000 miles on the odometer.  We're working on obtaining a 
> set of original green seats for it.  It seems that they are out in limbo 
> somewhere.  The carpet that is left (only over the drive shaft tunnel) 
> is the original.
> It is a project (partially disassembled) and hasn't been 
> inspected/driven since 1966. 
> We're looking for a buyer who can appreciate the originality of this car 
> and not one who will just tear it apart and restore it to be just like 
> all of the other shiny restored cars out there.
> The tires are also quite old, but not the originals.  ( Don't laugh, we 
> also have a 1960 Austin-Healey for sale with 13,800 original miles on it 
> with the original 5 tires with only 10K on them, 0 miles on the spare)
> Here is a link to pictures on Snapfish:
>
http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=244116092/a=144448251_144448
> 251/t_=144448251
> I'm not a car dealer.  I just happened on these interesting cars and 
> already have too many others to make them keepers.
>
> Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From chillmog at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 24 15:38:08 2008
From: chillmog at sbcglobal.net (Charles Hill)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 16:38:08 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
In-Reply-To: <080d01c91e78$efa4bef0$ceee3cd0$@net>
References: <48DA7AB2.3050802@comcast.net>
	<080d01c91e78$efa4bef0$ceee3cd0$@net>
Message-ID: <48DAB340.2010604@sbcglobal.net>

I may be passing up on a lot of interesting things, but when I encounter 
a web site that wants me to register I immediately leave. 

Charles Hill

Gene Fodor wrote:
> Charlie, I think the problem may be that in order to view you pix you have
> to register, hence they have you email address for advertising ...
> Many are reluctant to do that.
> gene

From s4usea at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 24 16:12:45 2008
From: s4usea at yahoo.com (S Allen)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 15:12:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
In-Reply-To: <48DAB340.2010604@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <75196.93506.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've been on snapfish for years.  You have to buy pictures from them once a
year to maintain your membership, and other than that I get maybe an e-mail a
month from them.  I say maybe because I don't remember the last time I did.

--- On Wed, 9/24/08, Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
From: Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
To: "'T series list'" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008, 5:38 PM

I may be passing up on a lot of interesting things, but when I encounter
a web site that wants me to register I immediately leave.

Charles Hill

Gene Fodor wrote:
> Charlie, I think the problem may be that in order to view you pix you have
> to register, hence they have you email address for advertising ...
> Many are reluctant to do that.
> gene
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From whfrancis at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 24 16:34:43 2008
From: whfrancis at sbcglobal.net (Wayne Francis)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 15:34:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
Message-ID: <505209.95560.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Out of curiosity, in what part of the country is this TD?  I don't remember
hearing in the past just where Charlie lives.
Wayne
Ojai, CA



----- Original
Message ----
From: Charlie Baldwin mgcharlie at comcast.net
To: T series list
<mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 6:48:03 AM
Subject:
[Mg-t] '53 TD for sale

We have a very original late production TD for sale. 
It is actually 
titled as a 1954.  It still has it's original paint and
interior panels 
and around 65,000 miles on the odometer.  We're working on
obtaining a 
set of original green seats for it.  It seems that they are out
in limbo 
somewhere.  The carpet that is left (only over the drive shaft
tunnel) 
is the original.
It is a project (partially disassembled) and hasn't
been 
inspected/driven since 1966. 
We're looking for a buyer who can
appreciate the originality of this car 
and not one who will just tear it
apart and restore it to be just like 
all of the other shiny restored cars out
there.
The tires are also quite old, but not the originals.  ( Don't laugh, we
also have a 1960 Austin-Healey for sale with 13,800 original miles on it 
with
the original 5 tires with only 10K on them, 0 miles on the spare)
Here is a
link to pictures on Snapfish:
http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=244116092/a=144448251_1444482
51/t_=144448251
I'm not a car dealer.  I just happened on these interesting
cars and 
already have too many others to make them keepers.

Charlie Baldwin
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
_______________________________________________

Support
Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at
http://www.team.net/archive

From gallianp at centurytel.net  Wed Sep 24 17:21:17 2008
From: gallianp at centurytel.net (Paul Gallian)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 18:21:17 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
Message-ID: <164D8625-3DA2-4638-8F8A-3046B2E51BFF@centurytel.net>

I am NOT a member (of Snapfish) and I can view but not post.

Hoping to get a feel for asking price.

Paul

From charleyrob at charter.net  Wed Sep 24 17:40:56 2008
From: charleyrob at charter.net (Charley Robinson)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 19:40:56 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
In-Reply-To: <75196.93506.qm@web37401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C5004848.2CA7%charleyrob@charter.net>

I've been on snapfish for years also and haven't bought anything in more
than 5 years. I can still get on and I don't receive any ads or mailings
(that I can trace back to them anyway).

Charley


On 9/24/08 6:12 PM, "S Allen" <s4usea at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I've been on snapfish for years.  You have to buy pictures from them once a
> year to maintain your membership, and other than that I get maybe an e-mail a
> month from them.  I say maybe because I don't remember the last time I did.
> 
> --- On Wed, 9/24/08, Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> From: Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
> To: "'T series list'" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008, 5:38 PM
> 
> I may be passing up on a lot of interesting things, but when I encounter
> a web site that wants me to register I immediately leave.
> 
> Charles Hill
> 
> Gene Fodor wrote:
>> Charlie, I think the problem may be that in order to view you pix you have
>> to register, hence they have you email address for advertising ...
>> Many are reluctant to do that.
>> gene

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 25 13:24:28 2008
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 12:24:28 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Spin On Oil Filter Adapters for MG TC and early TD,
 as well as  late TD/TF
Message-ID: <3fb870bd538c6ff9d96f61cdf3143199@earthlink.net>

Phil Marino manufactures an aluminum oil filter adapter.
He uses aluminum billet, cross-drills the housing for correct oil flow.
Accepts original oil pipes.
He used to make two lengths, one for the TC, and one for the TD 
(slightly taller).
He now makes only one length, which works for both the TC and TD.
His adapters have a groove machined in the outer case.The bracket on
the engine block, lower lip, fits into the groove, providing more 
support
than just having the adapter clamped in the bracket.
He also makes a heavy duty filter strap for the TC. The TD's already
have a heavier strap than the TC's.

Phil also makes a one piece spin on adapter for the later style oil 
pumps.

You can contact Phil by mail or phone, as he will never get a computer.
Or, you can work through me for Phil's products.

Phil Marino
16199 Hidden Cove Dr.
Riverside, CA 92503-0521
951-352-4419

John Seim
Irvine, CA

From budkrueger at comcast.net  Fri Sep 26 05:03:29 2008
From: budkrueger at comcast.net (Bud Krueger)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 07:03:29 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Spin On Oil Filter Adapters for MG TC and early TD,
 as well as  late TD/TF
In-Reply-To: <3fb870bd538c6ff9d96f61cdf3143199@earthlink.net>
References: <3fb870bd538c6ff9d96f61cdf3143199@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <48DCC181.5040809@comcast.net>

John Seim wrote:
> Phil Marino manufactures an aluminum oil filter adapter.
> He uses aluminum billet, cross-drills the housing for correct oil flow.
> Accepts original oil pipes.
> He used to make two lengths, one for the TC, and one for the TD 
> (slightly taller).
> He now makes only one length, which works for both the TC and TD.
> His adapters have a groove machined in the outer case.The bracket on
> the engine block, lower lip, fits into the groove, providing more 
> support
> than just having the adapter clamped in the bracket.
> He also makes a heavy duty filter strap for the TC. The TD's already
> have a heavier strap than the TC's.
>
> Phil also makes a one piece spin on adapter for the later style oil 
> pumps.
>
> You can contact Phil by mail or phone, as he will never get a computer.
> Or, you can work through me for Phil's products.
>
> Phil Marino
> 16199 Hidden Cove Dr.
> Riverside, CA 92503-0521
> 951-352-4419
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>
>   
Okay.  Bob Grunau (grunau.garage at sympatico.ca) also makes a spin-on 
adapter among other items, such as Al-fin brake drums.  Installation of  
Bob's adapter can be seen at http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm.  I 
have no financial interest in Bob's work.  Just a very satisfied customer.

Bud Krueger
http://www.ttalk.info/

From nels at flightsim.com  Mon Sep 29 10:11:12 2008
From: nels at flightsim.com (Nels Anderson)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 12:11:12 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Boston Area MG Club Show - Carver MA - Oct 11
Message-ID: <48E0FE20.6050400@flightsim.com>

  Boston Area MG Club will be hosting our 5th Annual British Car day at 
Edaville USA this coming Oct 11th which is less than 2 short weeks away!

As always, we will include admission and 2 train tickets per car, we 
have great raffles, DJ, the works!

The park is, as in past years, hosting the National Cranberry Festival, 
and we are the main attraction!

So mark your calendar now!

You can sign up here:

http://www.seeberg.com/2008_bamg/2008_edaville_page/index.htm

You can save $5 by pre-registering/paying. If you don't want to pre-pay, 
you can pre-register, and pay at the door (but lose the $5) if you like. 
This will make sign in easier.

As always, check our website http://www.bostonareamg.com/ for late 
breaking information!

From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Sep 29 21:26:32 2008
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 03:26:32 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
In-Reply-To: <48DAB340.2010604@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <708672.14789.qm@web27406.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Yeah, Charles.  Me too!

Regards, Lodge


--- On Wed, 24/9/08, Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> From: Charles Hill <chillmog at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] '53 TD for sale
> To: "'T series list'" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, 24 September, 2008, 10:38 PM
> I may be passing up on a lot of interesting things, but when
> I encounter
> a web site that wants me to register I immediately leave.
>
> Charles Hill
>
> Gene Fodor wrote:
> > Charlie, I think the problem may be that in order to
> view you pix you have
> > to register, hence they have you email address for
> advertising ...
> > Many are reluctant to do that.
> > gene
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive